PARIS | ПАРИЖ | 巴黎 | باريس
PARIS Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016
Page 44 SMALL WONDERS: how the mini-bag became the trend of the season
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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this seductive and sophisticated city. Paris has much to ofer, as our guide on page 71 reveals. Readers who appreciate the latest fashion trends will enjoy our feature on this season’s small but perfectly formed designer mini-bags (page 44), and in this issue we also explore the irresistible oferings of Paris’s most historic perfumer makers. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Paris. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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Welcome to Paris
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CONTRIBUTORS
ILLUSTRATION: RADIO
Radio Radio, a design-driven production company specialising in animation and illustration, created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Paris Luxury. Its graphic artwork has previously been commissioned by Monocle, the New York Times and MasterCard, among others. Its bold, colourful style makes it a perfect choice for this cover, inspired by our feature about the trend for mini-bags on page 44. It shows an array of them in diferent styles against a background of famous Paris landmarks. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online. globalblue.com
Harriet Quick Journalist Harriet Quick reports on Paris’s new innovative style for this edition of SHOP. She has held senior roles at the Guardian and British Vogue, where she was the fashion features director for over a decade.
Ximena Daneri SHOP’s fashion editor Ximena Daneri studied fashion and textile design in her home city of Buenos Aires before working as an image consultant for TV shows and styling magazine fashion shoots in Argentina.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Radio Contributor Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi
Global Blue France, 18 rue de Calais, 75009 Paris, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151
Print Dane Consultancy
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
AVP business development manager Patrice Janet
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
Marketing coordinators Luisa Montero, Patrice Simeon
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak
Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay
Country manager Francis Chommaux
Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold
Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers
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Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
DELVAUX PALAIS ROYAL Jardins du Palais Royal, 151-154 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris, France
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CONTENTS
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
p. 56
Products
Features
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Cover story: Petite Perfection This season, when it comes to handbags, smaller is most definitely better, as Sally McIlhone discovers 48 Scents Of History France’s long-established perfume houses create luxurious fragrances that remain popular for decades, and even centuries. Hannah Lewis investigates the secret of this longevity 56 All Change The top designers in Paris are eschewing low-key, stealth-wealth fashion in favour of bold pieces and experimental style, says Harriet Quick
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season My Favourites Grégoire Marot of PR agency Favori reveals his top tips for spring/summer 2016 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Paris’s best dressed during Paris Fashion Week
News 34 36
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Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Above: Chanel’s spring/summer 2016 catwalk show revealed a bolder, more experimental look
The watch
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CONTENTS p. 65
Experience 62
66
Raising The Bar A cocktail in Paris is an inspiring experience, says Theresa Harold Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
Guide 71
Guide Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights
Essentials 86
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations 87 92 97
Русский Перевод 美文翻译
Postcard 98
SHOP writes home about Guerlain
ENGLISH | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文
VISIT US ONLINE...
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru
FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: Little Red Door is one of Paris’s more intriguing cocktail bars
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购 物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈
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E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fnest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future. www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design Paris | Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ 23
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CHECK OUT
STEP TO IT High heels never go out of style, whether you’re aiming for classic elegance or something more playful. These multi-coloured Steiger sandals definitely fall into the latter camp, and will work equally well with a simple outfit of jeans and a T-shirt or something more dressed-up. The chic footwear brand can trace its history back to 1932 in Geneva, when mastershoemaker Walter Steiger opened his workshop. The ready-to-wear shoe line followed in 1966 Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86
under the aegis of the founder’s son, also called Walter, who wanted to create innovative designs using traditional manufacturing methods. The first Steiger boutique in Paris opened its doors in 1974. Since then, the brand has collaborated with many leading fashion names, such as Nina Ricci, Chloé, Karl Lagerfeld, Victoria Beckham and others. fm Steiger Esther sandals, €595, Steiger, 33 avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 8396 0781, waltersteiger.com
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PHOTO: YASMINE LARAKI
MY FAVOURITES: Grégoire Marot
1. ‘Gripoix has just opened its frst boutique-atelier in Paris. The Camellia brooch, which is handmade in the label’s workshop, looks perfect on a dinner jacket’
Grégoire Marot founded his Paris-based PR company Favori 10 years ago, following two decades in art direction and consulting. The company’s impressive list of clients includes both leading names and rising stars in everything from fashion, beauty and jewellery to cakes and luxury candles. He shares his insider tips for spring/ summer 2016 with Ximena Daneri favoriparis.com
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Gripoix Camellia brooch, €1,100, Gripoix, 14 place des Victoires, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)9 5158 4953, gripoixparis.com
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2. ‘I discovered Cathy Waterman’s work through Stéphanie Roger, owner of the White Bird jewellery store – and her rings are incredible’
3. ‘Fauré Le Page, founded in 1717, ofers luxury leather and canvas bags with the iconic fsh-scale motif in diferent colours’
4. ‘Cire Trudon creates scented candles that bring a delicate atmosphere to its shop. My favourite is the Abd el Kader fragrance’
Cathy Waterman ring, €2,200, White Bird, 38 rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 2586, cathywaterman.com
Fauré Le Page Véloce bag, €960, Fauré Le Page, 21 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4927 9936, faurelepage.com
Cire Trudon, 78 rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4326 4650, ciretrudon.com
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S H O P | 21
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PHOTOS: (5) LINO; (7) STUDIO 106
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5. ‘Cufinks are essential, especially the amazing ones from a new Italian brand called Ex Lux: the Harlequin cufinks are exquisitely made’ Ex Lux Harlequin cufinks, €7,500, exlux.it
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6. ‘My passport, in a La Contrie holder, is always in my bag just in case I need to jump on a plane’ La Contrie passport holder, from €350, La Contrie, 11 rue de la Sourdière, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4927 0644, lacontrie.com
7. ‘Habit Rouge by Guerlain is my favourite fragrance’ Guerlain Habit Rouge eau de parfum, 100ml, €90, Guerlain, 68 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 5257, guerlain.com
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URBAN ADVENTURE Earthy shades of khaki and brown form the basis of this gadget-infused summer look 3
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1. Acne Studios jumper, €150, Acne Studios, 1 quai Voltaire, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 5188, acnestudios.com
3. Louis Vuitton key ring, from €195, Louis Vuitton, 101 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 5200, louisvuitton.com
5. Audemars Piguet watch, price on request, Audemars Piguet, 380 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 4545, audemars-piguet.com
2. Mulberry bag, €1,500, Mulberry, 275 rue Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 0064, mulberry.com
4. Z Zegna backpack, €595, Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com
6. Porsche Design sunglasses, €755, Porsche Design, 23 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4006 6911, porsche-design.com
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PHOTOS: (4) CARLO BEVILACQUA; (5) DIODE SA - DENIS HAYOUN; (7) MARC SCHWARTZ
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7. Vilebrequin swim shorts, €650, Vilebrequin, 20 rue du Boccador, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 0998 vilebrequin.com
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8. Church’s card holder, €85, Church’s, 229 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3460, church-footwear.com
9. Car Shoe loafers, €330, Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, carshoe.com
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FLY THE FLAG This spring, vibrant shades of red, white and blue dominated the catwalk
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1. Loewe XXL Cookie purse, €495, Saturn coin purses, €250 each, Loewe, 46 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 9250, loewe.com 2. Kenzo scarf, €220, Kenzo, 3 place des Victoires, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4039 7203, kenzo.com
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3. Bulgari sunglasses, €270, Bulgari, 40 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 9999, bulgari.com 4. Giorgio Armani shoes, €550, Giorgio Armani, 18 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 5509, armani.com
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5. Tod’s bag, €3,050, Tod’s, 17-21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 1616, tods.com
ESCADA.COM
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PRETTY IN PEACH
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Blossom this spring by combining a variety of warm pastel shades 1
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1. Le Labo fragrance, 100ml, €185, Le Labo, 6 rue de Bourbon-le-Château, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4634 3765, lelabofragrances.com
3. Gucci shoes, €495, Gucci, 2 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4494 1470, gucci.com
2. Illesteva sunglasses, €300, Marc le Bihan, 22 rue Étienne Marcel, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 2232, illesteva.com
4. Burberry lipstick, €29, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86
5. Chanel Illusion d’Ombre eyeshadow, €30.50, Chanel Beauté, 382 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4450 7267, chanel.com 6. Cos jacket, €150, Cos, 4 rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4454 3770, cosstores.com
PHOTO: (4) © BURBERRY
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12 octobre 2015, Paris Adrien Sahores photographié par Karim Sadli Online shop : www.defursac.fr
112, rue de Richelieu - Paris IIè
34, avenue de l’Opéra - Paris IIè
11 bis, rue Marbeuf - Paris VIIIè
146, boulevard Saint Germain - Paris VIè
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann - Paris IXè
Le Bon Marché - Paris VIIè
Printemps Haussmann - Paris IXè
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SUMMER SKIES
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Match floral prints with pastel blues to create the ultimate laidback summer look 1
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1. Escada jacket, €1,120, Escada, Palais des Congrès, 2 place de la Porte Maillot, 75017 Paris, +33 (0)1 4068 2130, escada.com
3. Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet, €1,400, Van Cleef & Arpels, 22-24 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5504 1111, vancleef-arpels.com
2. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €1,090, Salvatore Ferragamo, 46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4312 9696, ferragamo.com
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4. 7 For All Mankind jeans, €260, 7 For All Mankind, 223 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4926 0127, 7forallmankind.com
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Street-style favourites at Paris Fashion Week showcased looks that combined exquisite embellishment with seasonal shades. Standout pieces included a JW Anderson jacquardknit sweater and matching foral separates by Valentino
PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
STREET STYLE
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The best dressed at Paris Fashion Week combined relaxed Middle Easterninfuenced styles with leather, denim and key fnishing touches such as a statement cap or a striking pair of sunglasses
PHOTOS: RAY FU/WTDAF.COM
STREET STYLE
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SHOP WINDOW
VIONNET’S NEW CHAPTER Late last year, Vionnet opened an opulent Paris flagship, its first new store since Goga Ashkenazi acquired the fashion house in 2012. The interior, by architect Renato Montagner, pays homage to the luxurious and flattering designs of couturier Madeleine Vionnet, whose former atelier-boutique was located a short distance away on avenue Montaigne. Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86
Featuring materials such as marble, onyx, copper, Murano glass and walnut, the result is intimate and inviting and provides a blueprint for the label¹s future openings. The fashion house, which can trace its origins back to 1923, is now under the creative direction of the owner, with a design team that includes British star Hussein Chalayan. rd Vionnet, 31 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 8288 8101, vionnet.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 77
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NEW MAN Menswear store Beaubien, named after a metro station in owner Julien Bouzereau’s native Montreal, was set up to bring fresh brands to Paris from around the world. Bouzereau started his fashion career working for Carven and Kitsuné, and chooses the labels he stocks for their minimalism. These include Denmark’s LibertineLibertine, Lyon-based Arpenteur and US baseball cap specialist Ebbets Field Flannels. The space itself is slick and masculine, with raw wooden floors, white walls, copper racks and vintage Scandinavian furniture. rd Beaubien, 21 rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)9 8036 0072, beaubienstore.com
ARTY MIYAKE Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake has launched a special collection featuring the works of renowned graphic designer Ikko Tanaka. The pair met in the 1960s and forged a deep connection, which continued for the rest of Tanaka’s life. This first release of the series comprises products featuring motifs of three major works by Tanaka: Nihon Buyo (1981), the 200th anniversary of Sharaku (1995) and Variations of Bold Symbols (1992). Through the translation of these artworks into threedimensional fashion pieces – whether that’s a dress, a coat, or even a bag – the wearer is able to add movement and energy to the graphics. After all, blurring the lines between fashion and art is what Issey Miyake does best. th Pleats Please Issey Miyake, 201 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 1044, isseymiyake.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 82
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IN BRIEF At the end of last year, Paris granted permission for extended opening hours for stores in 12 ‘international tourist zones’, including Montmartre and the ChampsÉlysées, meaning visitors can shop on Sundays and until midnight on weekdays
DENIM DELIGHT Master of glamour Tom Ford has introduced two new editions of his instantly recognisable Natalia bag: the classic daytime version and the daytime with chain strap. The denim chain-strap version, pictured here in medium (€2,290), features the signature lock hardware and black calfskin woven in the adjustable strap, making it chic as well as versatile. Founded in 2005, Tom Ford’s eponymous brand now has several lines, including menswear, womenswear, accessories and fragrance. th Tom Ford, 376-378 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 4026, tomford.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
Rupert Sanderson set up the label that bears his name after brief spells at Sergio Rossi and Bruno Magli. These shoes (€865) from his spring/summer 2016 collection are inspired by 1950s French bathing hats, and combine the designer’s ‘less is more’ ethos with subtle wit and refined elegance. rd Les Suites, 47 rue Pierre Charron, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5659 1111, rupertsanderson.com globalblue.com
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
IN THE SWIM
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MOVED AT MULBERRY A year after it moved to a new, larger space further along rue Saint-Honoré, Mulberry’s Paris flagship remains the place to head for chic, practical and superbly crafted bags. The interior is the work of Genevieve Bennett, whose design for the leather wall panels was inspired by a motif in a medieval cathedral. Visit to explore the covetable bags, such as the Bayswater, Willow and Lily for women and the universally appealing Piccadilly (pictured; €1,760), actually from the men’s collection, along with womenswear and shoes. rd Mulberry, 275 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 0064, mulberry.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
JOY FOR EVER Created in 1930, Jean Patou’s Joy fragrance (100ml, €240) was originally designed as a gift to his loyal clients and friends, with no expense spared in its making. Only the finest raw ingredients are used, with 10,600 jasmine flowers and more than 300 May roses from Grasse needed to make a single ounce of the perfume. Today, the scent remains a symbol of luxury and rarity. The bottle, which was designed by leading art deco architect Louis Süe, features a stopper hand sealed with gold thread. It is this level of meticulous attention to detail that sets Jean Patou apart, and makes Joy such an iconic fragrance. th Jean Patou, 9 rue Saint-Florentin, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4292 0722, jeanpatou.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
SADDLE UP
SHADES OF BRILLIANCE French luxury skincare brand Clarins has updated one of its cult beauty products for spring/summer 2016. Its Joli Rouge Brillant lipsticks (€22.70 each) have been given a new moisturerich formula, which leaves lips nourished and protected while delivering a precise, flattering and long-lasting veil of colour with a subtle gloss. Among the inviting shades are Cherry (pictured), Pink Praline, Tea Rose, Watermelon and Soft Berry, which work perfectly with this season’s trend for a softer, more natural look when it comes to make-up, and are sure to become staples of cosmetics bags everywhere. km Clarins, 10 rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4544 0619, clarins.fr FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 82
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Spring/summer 2016 sees the launch of the Saddle bag from American label Coach. A reworking of two pieces from the Coach archives, Bonnie Cashin’s 1972 courier pouch and the 1975 small courier pouch, the bold, classic Saddle is a simple yet standout piece. The updated design, formed from a single piece of leather, demonstrates Coach’s expertise in leatherwork; the brand launched in 1941 as a leather accessories specialist. The bags are available in two sizes (from €450) and a range of colours, from neutrals to paintbox brights, and each is finished with subtle but stylish contrast stitching. Team with items from the brand’s equally desirable spring/summer womenswear collection. th Coach, 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4286 0239, coach.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
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SEE AND BE SEEN Anna-Karin Karlsson’s unique vision and artistic flair have made her a name to watch in the world of eyewear, and her bespoke creations have been worn by some of the world’s most fashionable celebrities. Her eponymous line of ready-to-wear frames is just as imaginative. For spring/ summer 2016, she has based her collection on the strong, courageous queen inside every woman; and it is also a homage to the pair of limited-edition Queen shades she created for London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. Among the many highlights is the wonderfully named Mourning for Miss Blow (pictured; €695) in acetate and copper metal. rd Les Suites, 47 rue Pierre Charron, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5659 1111, annakarinkarlsson.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 76
STYLE STAPLE Fans of Dolce & Gabbana’s inimitable style should look out for the brand’s range of stylish polo shirts for men. From classic navy or grey to bold motifs featuring everything from Eastern dragons to colourful birds of paradise, there is a version to suit every taste. hl Dolce & Gabbana, 3-5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4494 9595, dolcegabbana.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
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BED OF ROSES Dans Mon Lit, the new linen spray from Frédéric Malle (100ml, €85), captures the rich fragrance of roses to perfection. Designed to be sprayed on to sheets and pillows – the name means ‘in my bed’ – it has a summery scent with a hint of musk. It was developed by perfumer Bruno Jovanovic, and is based around IFF-LMR Natural’s Rose Water Essential™, which captures the flower’s fragrance more accurately than ever. Frédéric Malle launched his Editions de Parfums concept in 2000 to bring together the world’s greatest ‘noses’ to create fragrances that stand out from the crowd; discover them in his Paris boutiques. rd Frédéric Malle, 21 rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4222 1689, fredericmalle.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
TAKING SHAPE British designer Vivienne Westwood has a long association with Paris, and shows one of her three ready-to-wear collections in the French capital. Visitors to the newly opened Vivienne Westwood boutique on the fashionable rue Saint-Honoré will be able to discover the idiosyncratic details for which the label is so well known: think rumpled hems, misaligned buttons, crooked collars and uneven cuffs. That aesthetic is seen clearly in this asymmetric leather bag (€372) with its visible seams, whose clever design creates an almost sculptural accessory. rd Vivienne Westwood, 175 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 8479 3399, viviennewestwood.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
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IN BRIEF Concept store Colette is known for its imaginative collaborations; this season, keep an eye out for the Casetify x Colette Looney Tunes iPhone 6/6S cases (€40)
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MAKE IT A VERTU British luxury mobilephone maker Vertu has launched its next generation smartphone, the New Signature Touch (€8,400). Featuring an Android 5.1 Lollipop operating system, a 5.2-inch full HD LCD display and a 21-megapixel camera, the phone – available in a choice of four colours – is Vertu’s most technologically advanced smartphone yet. As with all Vertu devices, it offers access to a dedicated concierge service, as well as other packages such as Vertu Life (with its unrestricted access to elite events), to provide the perfect experience tailored to the customer’s location. th Vertu, 18 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4286 5666, vertu.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 80
GLITTERING DEBUT An American by birth, fine-jewellery enthusiast David ‘Davidor’ Gusky has always been entranced by Paris, so when he launched his own high-jewellery label in 2012, globalblue.com
he had no hesitation in making the city its home. Each piece of Davidor jewellery is designed and made entirely in Paris, and carries the coveted Joaillerie de France certificate. Gusky uses only 18-carat gold, platinum and diamonds, embellished with precious stones and lacquer. Davidor’s signature collection, L’Arc, features distinctive (and trademarked) arches of diamonds and was inspired by the architecture of the place Vendôme. hl Davidor, 2 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, davidor.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 77
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PETITE PERFECTION This season, when it comes to handbags, smaller is most defnitely better, as Sally McIlhone discovers
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
T
hey say good things come in small packages, and that’s certainly true when it comes to the latest trend in handbags. 2015 was the year of the mini-bag, with everyone from Prada to Fendi downsizing their iconic styles to miniature proportions – and the trend looks set to continue. Louis Vuitton’s Petite Malle was one of the most exciting offerings of the past year. A shrunken version of the traditional Louis Vuitton travel trunk, the Petite Malle moved swiftly from catwalks to red carpets, carried by Julianne Moore and Nicole Kidman to name just two. In a recent interview with Vogue, Louis Vuitton’s CEO Michael Burke explained his initial misgivings, admitting that it was only designer Nicolas Ghesquière’s passion 87 / 97
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that pushed the project further. ‘Trunks are expensive to make, and they’re difficult to make, so when Nicolas said, “This is what I want to do,” the artisans said, “No!” But, of course, they have done it beautifully.’ Validating Ghesquière’s vision, the tiny trunk has been so well received that further styles have been launched for spring/summer 2016. The Petite Malle was seen on the catwalk in black with a gold and silver metallic chain print, and in a red and black stingray effect incarnation, complete with chain strap and white leather clasp. The style has also been adapted to feature black circular corner details on bags in powder pink, in monochrome snakeskin-style print, or the traditional house monogram. There are certainly plenty of little Lef: Chloé spring/summer 2016
PHOTO: © LOUIS VUITTON MALLETIER/GIOVANNI GIANNONI
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Louis Vuitton luxury bags to choose from for the new season, so be sure to clear a (miniature) space in your wardrobe. Smaller proved better when it came to handbags for many other of the major Parisian fashion houses. Saint Laurent sent grungy princesses down the catwalk with sequined pouches, whose chain straps were held in the hand rather than slung across the shoulder. Chloé produced mustard suede mini-bags with swaying tassels, brown leather front-pocket panels and on-trend cross-body straps. Grey and pale pink offerings mixed leather and suede and boasted circular chrome handles and chain clasp details, complementing Chloé’s 1970s festival-inspired lace minidresses. Parisian accessories specialists are also choosing to downsize when it comes to bags. Roger Vivier has created black and orange stitched mini-bags with chain straps and fringe details – a running theme across many collections for spring/summer 2016 – as well as a metallic silver embellished square mini-bag with front clasp. Andrew Gn is from Singapore, but opened his eponymous label in Paris in 1996.
The selection of mini-bags from his 20th anniversary collection showcases denimeffect leather, beaded shoulder straps, bright flower and butterfly designs, and a range of stunningly detailed prints across blue, black and cream backgrounds. ‘I design my mini-bags like jewel boxes: precious materials, stones, pearls, embroideries,’ the designer explains. ‘They become little objets d’art.’ When it comes to why the trend is so popular, Gn believes it goes beyond bags. ‘Miniaturisation is everywhere. Everything we use gets smaller and more compact. A modern woman wants her daily basics within easy reach in a miniature bag.’ Look out for Gn’s Pocket and Psychedelic mini-bags for spring/ summer 2016. Olympia Le-Tan, who launched her eponymous label seven years ago, came to prominence thanks to her literary-inspired clutches and minaudières: diminutive, decorative bags without handles or straps, designed to resemble iconic books. Le-Tan’s latest collection, Sentimental Journey, is inspired by her love of Japan. The designer has adapted the covers of classic Japanese novels, recreating their designs as clutches in her signature felt, as well as creating boxy bags with folding closures and embroidered ribbon details. Elsewhere mini cases carry hand-stitched Polaroid-style images of women in brightly coloured kimonos. Our favourite, though, has to be the beaded Maneki-neko (or ‘beckoning cat’) clutch, ideal for adding a touch of whimsy to a spring look. In an interview with Purple magazine, Le-Tan explained that making her collection was a way for her to continue being a child. ‘Kids use felt for arts and crafts because it doesn’t fray and it’s easy to cut,’ she said. ‘It’s actually a primitive fabric. It’s soft and comes in cute colours. I like the texture. Even the embroideries I do, which are quite elaborate and time-consuming, use the really basic stitches. I guess I just do it in a very advanced way.’ Whether you prefer a Japanese-inspired minaudière, a printed leather handbag with beaded strap or a tiny trunk, Paris’s elite designers have every luxurious mini-bag your heart could desire, small but perfectly formed
Above (clockwise from top lef): Louis Vuiton Petite Malle; Andrew Gn mini-bag; Olympia Le Tan Maneki-neko clutch; Olympia Le Tan catwalk show; Roger Vivier, all spring/summer 2016
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PHOTO: SHOJI FUJII
PHOTO: PALAST-JMANIGAND
Paris’s elite designers have every luxurious mini-bag your heart could desire, small but perfectly formed
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SCENTS OF HISTORY
PHOTO: JB. PICOULET - S. LOURIÉ/PCP
France’s most respected perfume houses create luxurious fragrances that remain popular for decades, and even centuries. Hannah Lewis investigates the secret of this longevity
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f any nation can call itself the birthplace of perfume as we know it, it is France. While the origins of fragrances may stretch back to ancient civilisation, it was in France that the humble use of perfume was transformed into an industry. The fashion began with the French court, which was looked on as a centre of culture, and gradually spread to a wider society. 89 / 96
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Nowadays, scent is an indulgence that has the power to transport us to other worlds, to lift our mood, to evoke cherished memories or simply to add the finishing touch to an outfit. While hundreds of different ones emerge each year, only a few stand the test of time. And many of the most enduring are produced by the historic fragrance houses of Paris. Lef: Caron’s opulent boutique on boulevard Saint-Germain
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Creed is one of the few fragrance houses whose founding predates that of Houbigant, although the Parisian element of its history began later. Established in 1760 in London, Creed was another favourite of Queen Victoria. In 1854, the firm moved to Paris at the invitation of Eugénie, empress consort to Napoleon III, and its perfumers were soon making bespoke scents for both the most discerning citizens of Paris and the courts of other European countries. The business remains in the hands of the founding family, and is run today by Olivier Creed, aided by his children, Erwin and Olivia. The company continues to grow and expand, and yet heritage is crucial. The earliest ever Creed perfume, Royal English Leather, is still in production. As Olivier explained to the UK’s Telegraph newspaper, it is the unique nature of the company that allows it to retain the original Creed spirit. ‘Other houses would be
Scent has the power to transport us to other worlds and evoke cherished memories
Above (from top): a portrait of Jean-François Houbigant; Quelques Fleurs Royale, one of Houbigant’s limited-edition porcelain facons
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © YVAN SOULIER/REALIS
Founded by Jean-François Houbigant in 1775, Houbigant is one of the world’s oldest perfumers. Its beautiful scents were loved by the most important names of their era, from the French queen Marie Antoinette and the emperor Napoleon to Queen Victoria of England. Houbigant was known for innovation, both in the way its perfumes were made and in how they were used, such as to scent a fan so that a coy wave would release the perfect hint of fragrance. Houbigant’s creations have been so wellloved that they have endured for decades, even centuries. Fougère Royale, launched in 1882, was a revolution in the world of fragrances. ‘If ferns had a perfume smell, it would be that of Fougère Royale’, said perfumer Paul Parquet at the time, and this groundbreaking scent created a new fragrance family which remains the most popular for men. Due to its absolute commitment to excellence, Houbigant keeps its range small, with a focus on longevity. An exemplary scent smells as good today as it ever did, after all, and while the packaging may have changed – the fragrances can now be bought in limited-edition 18-carat gold-painted porcelain vessels, for example – the appeal of Houbigant’s signature scents has not.
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scared to keep something so old, but because we are independent we can keep making it,’ he explains. Erwin, the heir apparent, shares this passion for tradition and for Creed’s way of doing things. ‘My father knows the exact formula of all his scents. Other brand owners don’t know what’s in their fragrances.’ What the Creed family see as their defining factor is their absolute control over their business, and the independence this gives them to create fragrances. Crucially, there is no limit on the time taken to create a scent, and no limit on the budget. The importance of this is echoed by Richard Fraysse, perfume creator at Caron. ‘I am lucky enough to have complete creative freedom, with no budget or marketing constraints. I can favour rare natural essences … so as to remain true to the great tradition of luxury perfume.’ Caron, established in 1904, has over a century of history to its name. Founder Above (from top): Olivier Creed; the brand’s Royal English Leather fragrance
MADE IN PARIS | 38 Boulevard Des Italiens | Tel. +33 1 402.299.82 | 112 Boulevard Saint Germain | Tel. +33 1 463.306.68 | Galeries Lafayette Haussmann | Tel. +33 1 403.725.65
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PHOTO: LIPZYC
Ernest Daltroff was inspired by his love for his colleague Félicie, and together they created a host of powerful fragrances. Its first fragrance exclusively for men, Pour Un Homme, was released in 1934 and still sells well today. Similarly, Tabac Blond for women – launched in 1919 – remains one of Caron’s most iconic products. Limited-edition vessels, such as a marble and wood case carved to resemble a horse pulling a bottle of Tabac Blond, maintain the avant-garde spirit that propelled Caron to fame without altering the crucial elements from its heritage. What is it that makes these scents so enduring? Fraysse has the possible answer. ‘Despite advances in chemistry and the pursuit of profit, fragrance should remain a rare and precious luxury product, so as not to lose its original purpose: to make the wearer dream.’
Above (from top): two of Caron’s best-loved fragrances, Pour Un Homme and Tabac Blond; the perfumer’s boutique in rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
The top designers in Paris are eschewing low-key, stealth-wealth fashion in favour of bold pieces and experimental style, says Harriet Quick
PHOTO: Š GORUNWAY.COM
ALL CHANGE
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s pink-haired model Fernanda Ly circled the Louis Vuitton catwalk, flanked by a tower of digital screens and wearing a chiffon kilt with tribal-like silver embroideries and a candyfloss-pink biker jacket, one knew there was something very different happening in the language of luxury. In recent years, luxurious, beautifully crafted designer fashion has expressed itself
through good taste and discretion, via elegant handbags with gold hardware and tailoring that purported to be timeless. This season, designers in Paris got creative, presenting us with sensational items destined to become cult buys. At Louis Vuitton, this took the form of mesh T-shirts, graffiti-sprayed biker jackets, exotic-skin Lockit bags adorned with grommets and tassels, over-dyed silk jumpsuits, and
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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waistcoats covered not only with the house logo but also a healthy scattering of studs. Nicolas Ghesquière channelled the energy and attitude of the modern metropolis into this collection, adding a touch of fantasy to these influences. ‘It is about stylistic roleplaying where the heroine passes through several sartorial levels. In passing through these aesthetic levels, the entire evolution of the classic urban wardrobe is gradually remastered, rooted in materials that are, in fact, very real. Silk, leather, python and shagreen are “reloaded” by the maison’s celebrated savoir faire,’ says Ghesquière of the collection. That energetic thrust into gritty reality was felt at a whole variety of the biggest brands. It seems the very notion of Parisian style – that nonchalant ‘je ne sais quoi’ and penchant for subtlety – has been turned on its head to unveil a brave new spirit. At Chanel, for instance, Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into an airport lounge complete with check-in staff and a giant flickering departure board. The red, white and blue colours of Air France were 90 / 96
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Safe is boring; it’s time to take a walk on the wild side for this new chapter in luxury translated into splashy geometric print all-inones, while the current penchant for sportswear was satisfied by denim blue sweatshirts, padded blouson jackets, tube skirts and flat silver sandals. When we invest in luxury fashion, what we pay for is a thrilling sense of now. Chitose Abe, the influential designer at Japanese brand Sacai, triggered that sense of desire with her bandanaprint kilts, chiffon dresses with hems cut askew, and navy and gold lace bomber jackets. She had been thinking about memories from her travels, of the street gangs in Mexico, of postcard prints in Italy, and merged these multiple influences to create undeniable trophy pieces. One of the biggest decisions one needs to make this season rests not on hemlines, nor on tangerine orange or cobalt blue, but on swearing your allegiance to a designer ‘gang’ and wearing those colours and badges with pride. At Dries Van Noten, that might be a shirt emblazoned with golden wings; at Chloé, it’s a cool tracksuit top with side stripes; and at Saint Laurent, it’s a battered silk satin 1930s-style Previous page: Chanel spring/summer 2016
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PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
slip dress, worn with tapestry-sided rain boots and a grungy tiara. One of the most revolutionary brands in Paris now is Vetements, designed by a collective led by brothers Demna and Guram Gvasalia. It revealed its collection in a kitsch Chinese restaurant, and the artfully reconstructed hooded dresses that shimmied down the hips, languid prairie dresses and outsize jackets with sleeves cut to appear rolled up made it one of the most exciting collections of Paris Fashion Week. ‘Real-life, relatable clothes are the base of our design process,’ says Demna of the brand’s manifesto. ‘We observe, react, put it through our design filter and try to translate what we absorb from around us into a Vetements aesthetic.’ When it was announced last October that Demna Gvasalia had been hired as the new creative director at Balenciaga, it seemed Paris fashion had completed its shift in consciousness. Safe is boring: it’s time to take a walk on the wild side and thrill at this new chapter in luxury subversion
Previous page (from lef): Fernanda Ly, Louis Vuiton spring/ summer 2016; Nicolas Ghesquière, the label’s creative director
Above (clockwise from top): Vetements; Chanel; Sacai, all spring/ summer 2016
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RAISING THE BAR From speakeasies to hotel bars, Paris offers the discerning cocktail lover plenty of choice, as Theresa Harold finds out
While the French love afair with fne wine is long documented, Paris’s cocktail scene is still relatively young. True, there are noteworthy historic venues such as Harry’s New York Bar and the Bar Hemingway at the Ritz, but these have always catered mainly to American expats and visitors. All this changed with the opening of the Experimental Cocktail Club in 2007. This revolutionary bar kick-started a native demand for bespoke mixed drinks made with top-quality ingredients used in ever more creative ways. It also inspired a new generation of bartenders, who went on to open their own cocktail bars. Today, visitors to Paris can fnd a good cocktail with an ease that would have seemed impossible a decade ago. What’s even more exciting is the fact that local bartenders are adding a distinctive Gallic twist to traditional cocktails, using classic French spirits. With such a variety of options on ofer, one doesn’t have to be a connoisseur to appreciate the city’s cocktail scene. globalblue.com
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PHOTO: BENJAMIN SCHMUCK
C L A M AT O
Those looking for something to eat as well as a drink should head to Clamato, sister bistrot to Michelin-starred Septime. The place has an informal feel, a no-reservations policy and an interior design that’s a contemporary blend of pale wood and exposed brick. The name Clamato refers to tomato juice mixed with clam juice, so it will come as little surprise that – in addition to its excellent fishy tapas – Clamato is famed for its classic Bloody Mary. As one would expect of any decent establishment in the French capital, the wine list is also superb. Clamato, 80 rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4372 7453, septime-charonne.fr
PHOTO: BRENCKLE, ERIC / FOUR SEASONS
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LE BAR Situated in the opulent surroundings of the Four Seasons Hotel George V, Le Bar is every inch the luxury hotel drinking establishment. From the chandelier to the abundance of mahogany, and the red velvet chairs to the formally clad bartenders, this is Parisian chic at globalblue.com
its finest. Unsurprisingly, the menu features a number of champagne cocktails, alongside long and short drinks. For the late crowd, there is also a list of after-dinner classics on offer. Le Bar, Four Seasons Hotel George V, 31 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 7000, fourseasons.com/paris
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LITTLE RED DOOR
Unlike the speakeasies of Prohibition-era America, Little Red Door is accessible without a password. It’s also not very hidden, located as it is in the hip neighbourhood of Haut-Marais. Instead, it has taken speakeasy-style décor and given it a Parisian spin – think exposed brickwork and antique glassware – to create a bar with just the right amount of mystery. As for the cocktails, head bartender Rémy Savage was named World’s Most Imaginative Bartender by Bombay Sapphire in 2014. Little Red Door, 60 rue Charlot, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4271 1932, lrdparis.com
PHOTO: DAVID RAGER
CANDELARIA
Hidden within a small taco restaurant, this dimly lit bar would be easy to miss. However, after four consecutive years on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, word is definitely spreading about its exceptional drinks and intimate vibe. Owners Adam Tsou, Josh Fontaine and Carina Soto Velasquez change the menu regularly, but visitors stepping through the unmarked door know that they are sure to taste some of the city’s best cocktails. Candelaria, 52 rue de Saintonge, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4274 4128, candelariaparis.com
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STAY IN STYLE
PHOTO: ABACAPRESS/AARON JOEL SANTOS
The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
PULLMAN KUALA LUMPUR CITY CENTRE The Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre is at the heart of the Bukit Bintang district, just a short walk from the city’s fashionable and popular Pavilion shopping mall. The hotel offers 445 modern and spacious guestrooms in addition to 157 serviced apartments. Guests can expect to enjoy panoramic views of some of globalblue.com
Kuala Lumpur’s most famous sights, including the Petronas Twin Towers. Excellent facilities are available, such as the award-winning Sompoton Spa (which is open from 10am to 11pm), a residents’ lounge, fitness centre and an outdoor pool surrounded by palm trees. Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 4 Jalan Conlay, Bukit Bintang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur, +60 (0)3 2170 8888, pullmanhotels.com
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HOTEL AM STEINPLATZ Few places match the beauty of Hotel Am Steinplatz. The art nouveau structure, designed by German architect August Endell, is striking from the outside and is matched by a stunning interior. Bedrooms are furnished in the art nouveau style, with 1920s black-and-white photographs on the walls of the restaurant and
public areas. Step into the shoes of former guests such as Luciano Pavarotti and Brigitte Bardot by enjoying a cocktail at the bar – options include a porcini mushroom Martini. The spa is also recommended: relax in the Finnish sauna before indulging in a treatment using products from French brand Thalgo. Hotel am Steinplatz, Steinplatz 4, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 554 4440, hotelsteinplatz.com
PHOTO: HOTEL PHOTOGRAPHY SRL - JANOS GRAPOW
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PORTRAIT FIRENZE Part of the Lungarno Collection, which is owned by the Salvatore Ferragamo group, the Portrait Firenze occupies a scenic position on the banks of the river Arno close to Florence’s prestigious museums and galleries. The interior has been inspired by Italian couture, and local architect Michele Bönan has ensured that the rooms and suites have been furnished with the utmost attention to detail, using sumptuous globalblue.com
fabrics and handmade furniture. Thoughtful accessories include complimentary iPads and a selection of music and DVDs. The hotel’s Lifestyle Team is available 24 hours a day and can arrange a wide range of activities, from an in-room massage to a bespoke tour of Florence or the surrounding Tuscan countryside. Portrait Firenze, Lungarno Acciaiuoli 4, 50123 Florence, +39 055 2726 8000, lungarnocollection.com
PHOTO: KALORY LTD
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THE STAFFORD LONDON A stay at the Stafford London offers a glimpse of the city’s history. There has been a luxury hotel here for more than a century, although the building housing the Stafford London dates back to the 1600s. Within the heritage setting visitors are provided with the expected modern conveniences and an elegant décor inspired by timeless English style. At the Lyttelton
restaurant, chef Carlos Martinez focuses on local, seasonal ingredients, while resident mixologist Erik Rychnavsky creates cocktails inspired by stories from the hotel’s rich past in the American Bar. While here, be sure to visit the hotel’s 380-year-old wine cellar, where master sommelier Gino Nardella hosts wine tastings and wine-pairing dinners throughout the year. The Stafford London, 16-18 St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NJ, +44 (0)20 7493 0111, thestaffordlondon.com
T H E U LT I M AT E LUXU RY S H O P P I N G E X P ER I EN C E Discover more than 110 luxury boutiques with savings of at least 33% * and tax refunds § on your shopping, including Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Moncler, Paul Smith, Salvatore Ferragamo and many more, seven days a week, 35 minutes from Paris. Enjoy your complimentary Hands-free Shopping service ‡. You do the shopping, we do the carrying.
LU X U RY AWA I T S
#LAVALLEEVILL AGE * and often more on the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. § Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. ‡Upon presentation of this advertisement at the Welcome Center until 30 September 2016. © La Vallée Village 2016
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THE GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from dazzling fine-jewellery boutiques to stores that sell the perfect lightweight summer jacket. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.
PHOTO: PARIS XXXXTOURIST OFFICE/MARC BERTRAND
A Glimpse of Paris
Above: relaxing on the banks of the river Seine
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‘One of the world’s most romantic cities, Paris is also the place to go to admire some of the finest buildings, landmarks and culture in Europe’ – Kirsty Andrews, SHOP’s picture editor
PHOTOS: KIRSTY ANDREWS; XIMENA DANERI; CHLOÉ WISE
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!
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This acclaimed bar and bistro is famed for its classic Bloody Mary. Clamato, 80 rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4372 7453, septime-charonne.fr FEATURED ON PAGE 63
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Those looking for a glittering new addition to their jewellery box will adore Davidor. Davidor, 2 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, davidor.com FEATURED ON PAGE 43
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Discover the exceptional high-end fragrances from independent perfumer Creed. Creed, 74 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4284 0644, creed.eu
ODEON CLUNY - LA SORBONNE MAUBERT - MUTUALITÉ
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The Petite Malle mini-bag is a must-have for the spring/summer season. Louis Vuitton, 101 avenue des ChampsÉlysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 5200, louisvuitton.com FEATURED ON PAGE 44
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THE KOOPLE S SPORT ● LACOSTE ●
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LANCEL ● DINH VAN ● NESPRESSO ● HUGO BOSS ●
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P.98 GUERLAIN BENETTON/SISLEY GALERIE 66 MAUBOUSSIN TIFFANY & CO.
● SEPHORA
● ● ● ● ●
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ALAIN AFFLELOU MARIONNAUD YVES ROCHER MARKS & SPENCER
● MAC ● AMYTIS ● MARIO ROSSINI ● LEVI'S ● TISSOT GALERIE DU ● CLARIDGE
● ● ● ● ●
● ● ● ●
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MASSIMO DUTTI PETIT BATEAU IKKS JM WESTON
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● SWATCH ● TAG HEUER
● ● ● ●
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
● CART IER
76 | G U I D E
Avenue des Champs-Élysées West, Avenue George V & Rue François 1er
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
CAPET ● JOAILLER
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●
Place Of Interest
S H O P | 77
● GALERIE 26 ● ADIDAS ● BANANA REPUBLIC
CO U ED RU
● QUIKSILVER
DISNEY ZARA CITROEN ZARA HOME GAP ● ● ● ● ●
● GALERIE ELYSÉES
● NAF NAF
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FRANK LIN D. ROOSE VELT
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Avenue des Champs-Élysées East, Rue François 1er, Rue Marbeuf & Avenue Montaigne
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● CESARE PACIOTTI ● GUISEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● PRADA ● PRADA MEN ● LORO PIANA
● ESCADA
● GIORGIO ARMANI ● DAVIDOR
Featured In This Issue
Café
P.43
CO
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78 | G U I D E
LONGCHAMP The Pénélope bag, new to luxury leather brand Longchamp for spring/ summer 2016, is a clever fusion of previous styles. This sporty offering not only comes in four colourways – sumptuous terracotta, a subtle beige, rich blue (pictured) and black – but also in indigo calfskin with contrasting black cowhide piping, handles and drawstring tassels as the Pénélope Fantaisie. It’s one of the stars of Longchamp’s striking new campaign, shot by Peter Lindbergh with British model and socialite Alexa Chung against the timeless backdrop of Paris. Longchamp, 404 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4316 0016, longchamp.com
BUCHERER Bucherer, known for excellence since 1888, offers an unrivalled selection of Rolex watches, and also has its own fine jewellery range. Look out for the exquisite La Cerise collection, which includes these earrings with their intricate decoration of diamonds and tourmalines. Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7099 1888, bucherer.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 81
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Featured In This Issue
AV .D
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FREY WILLE ● VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD
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Place André Malraux
P.42
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FREY WILLE ● EB MEYROWITZ ● H STERN ●
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● ZIMMERL I ● ILIAS LALAOUN IS ● OMEGA ● ALEXIS ● DE GRISOGO NO ● CHOPARD
● MIKI HOUSE
Place Vendôme
LORENA ● ANTIONIAZZI ● CAROLINA HERRERA
● E. GO YA RD E GOYA R D ● MI LL ER ● ● EX W IH IL O G I US EP P E ZA NO T TI J P H E VI N CH O D E SI GN ● ● DODO CO LAT IER ● LYD A CO UR TEI ● PAT RIC E FAB RE LUC IEN P ELL AT- L LE ● ● BA LDI NIN I FI NE T ● CH UR CH ● ● M OY NAT G ER AR D DA R EL ● P H ILIP PE F RIC H AR D GR AN ● ERR A ND I S D●
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P.37
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P.42
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VALERIE ● DANENBERG
DE S DE S PY R A MI
CAMILLE FOURNET ●
AUDIO ● COTÉLAC ● TECHNICA
● SEQUOIA ● PARABOOT
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JOHN ● GALLIANO EL HAN ●C HEL ARO N MIC LIA S S E A SO ● M● M A I C O R D ●
● ● ● ●
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HEURGON ● OSCAR CARVALLO ●
LANCÔME ● VALENTINO ●
ROGER VIVIER ●
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P.41
LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROSSI ● CARITA ● LA BAGAGER IE ● BERLU TI ● P.83 MONCL ER ● PANERAI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SARTORE ● PAUL SMITH ● MIU MIU ● AUDEMAR S PIGUET ●
TOD’S ● CARTIER ●
CHANEL ●
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● RENE CAOVILLA ●
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JITROIS SAINT LAURENT YVES SALOMON ARAMIS BLOCH JUN ASHIDA SAINT LAURENT BOUCHERON
● LANVI N F EMME ● LA PERLA ERMAN NO ● SCERV INO ● BOTTE GA VENETA ● C ARTUJ ANO ● LORO PIANA ● PRADA ● PINKO ● GUCCI
● HERMÈS
● GIVENCHY
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
● BLUGIRL ● BLUMARIN E ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● DAMIR DOMA ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA ● LEONARD ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O
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SANDRO ●
CHRONOPASSION ● DJULA ●
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BRACCIAL INI BERENICE TORY BURCH MAX MARA
● ● ● ●
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WEMPE LANCASTE R LEETHA GIANFRAN CO LOTTI
● ● ● ●
RUE ROYALE
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COLETTE ● CHANTAL THOMASS ● COSMOPARIS ● TOSCA BLU ● PENHALIGON’S ●
● BURMA ● STUART WEITZMAN COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS
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RU E SA IN T- HO NO
MISSONI ● MANOUSH ● KIEHL'S ● BA&SH ● THEORY ●
PAULE KA ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ●
S H O P | 79
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Rue Saint-Honoré West
Rue Saint-Honoré East
DELVAU X ●
BRUCE FIELD ●
80 | G U I D E
Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale GUERLAIN ●
BO
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DEVERNOIS ●
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
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Global Blue Retailer
TH CA
BERNARDAUD ● CRISTAL LALIQUE ● CHRISTOFLE ● J L COQUET ● MAXIM'S ●
RU E ROYA L E
AUDEMARS PIGUET ● HEURGON ● BONPOINT ● ST LOUIS ●
A
CHANEL ● APC ●
VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●
RUE DU FAUB O URG SAINT- H ON OR É
● KENZO
● MAISON DE FAMILLE
GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI P.43 ● VERTU
ESCALES ● ● NAPAPIJRI ● EMLING
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LOUIS PION ● C ODIOT ● E R GUY DEGRENNE ● PATRICK R U T I● BELL & ROSS ● ROGER ● ● LOUIS EDOUARD LEJEUNE DIOR ●
●
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TRUSSARDI ● MAILLE ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● RALPH LAUREN ●
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Place de la Madeleine
ZARA HOME ● LIPAULT ● LA MAISON DU E CHOCOLAT ● IN
FAURÉ LE PAGE ● YUMIKO KATSURA ●
● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS HERVÉ CHAPELIER ● LES ATELIERS DE LA MAILE ●
● WEMPE
TOM FORD ●
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ ● POIRAY ● IRO ● ● ● ● ●
ROYAL QUARTZ EMILE LÉON O J PERRIN HAVILAND / DAUM ARTHUS BERTRAND
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MADELE I NE
MANFIELD ●
R T IN
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HEDIARD ● MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ● ● BURBERRY CAVIAR KASPIA ● OLIVER B O ● GRANT LE JARDIN U D’ULYSSE ● L E VA ● BRUCE FIELD
MA
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BRITISH DESTOCK ● OBREY ● PETIT BATEAU ● COS ● SAINT JAMES ● KUJTEN ●
● LANVIN
● THE KOOPLES ● LE CREUSET ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E WA R A U C ●E●S ●F
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JACADI ● IKKS ● CATIMINI ●
● KI6 HERMÈS ●
● GANTS HELION ● CAROLL ● JB GUANTI
OLIVER GRANT ● ● ANNE FONTAINE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● BRIC’S
● NATALYS ● LE DESSOUS CHIC ● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX ● WINONA ● EMA PIAZI ● CHASSAGN ARD ● NARACAMIC IE
DE M A
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JOHN LOBB ●
● CAFE COTON ● EKYOG ● LA MAROQUIN ERIE PARISIENNE
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MAJE ●
ER
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LAGUIOLE ●
AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●
RUE T RO N CH E T
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● YVES DELORME ● THE KOOPLES ● GUY DEGRENNE ● AGATHA
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RUE T RO NCHET
● EQ:IQ
ALESSI ●
RU E
● MASSIMO DUTTI
MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● SABON ● PRINCESSE TAM-TAM ● RODIER ● CHARLES COTONAY ● EMLING ●
● SIA NINE WEST ●
● GAP
UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●
Featured In This Issue
S H O P | 81
● EQ:IQ
S NE CI PU
MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● LANGE & SÖHNE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● POIRAY ●
CI
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ALFRED DUNHILL ●
CA
PU
MAUBOUSSIN ●
S
GARLAND ●
D
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CARTIER ●
RU E VOLNEY
RU E DE L A PAIX
UL
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MELLERIO ● PIAGET ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI ● IWC ● BULGARI ● ● ● R IE ON RT IT T CA VU S UI
DUBAIL ●
LO
WEMPE Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eyecatching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet (pictured) whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave. Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com
Global Blue Refund Office
RUE DE LA PAIX
BO
Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO
● BENETTON
CA EV AR UL
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● ERIC BOMPARD CLAUDIE M CAFE DE LA PAIX ● ● BENETTON PIERLOT ● A I S ● BASLER M O N W B O N KIWI ● O S A N T A B AT C B O PRINCESSE DIVINA ● R TA M S B L A I Z H ● N ● TAM.TAM G O N A● PHILIPPE CA HE NIT C ● FERRANDIS ● ● CALIDA RT UE E ● IE R ● GOLFINO ● R ● BUCHERER ● P.78 COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS COTONNIERS ● MAJE ● RUE DAUNOU GAP ● PE ● OMEGA RI GO ● BALLY T ZA ● RA ● HARMONT & BLAINE ● B GA AB P Y ● LACOSTE ● ● HACKETT ● MANFIELD ● GANT ● BOULANGER ● AIGLE ● TOMMY HILFIGER
D
Place Opéra
BO
S C R IB
BURMA ● LANCEL ● GUESS ● DESIGUAL ● MATY ●
B ER
S
● NINE WEST
Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix
DE
RUE AU RUE
NESPRESSO ●
Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe
● CHRISTOF LE ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● LALIQUE ● ZIMMERLI ● BAUME ET MERCIER ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● LERY ● STARK & SONS ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. ● GLASHUTT E ● DAUM ● TECLA VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN
DA RUE
N IE L
SANO
● CHANEL ● PIAGET ● SWATCH ● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT PATEK ● PHILIPPE
●
E BR
GU
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● MIKIMOTO ● DIOR
FRED ●
OMEGA ●
CHOPARD ●
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NT T T IN RE OO E S A L A UR A B LL BI TIN ● PA MA R ● IS MA E EX N OR AL ISO A AT O ● ● MA IEL LV M I ● A RG S A AG A EN CH E● ● N M RV RR LE LIN K RA L FE CA C É ACO N ● NE AF ● O TT RE CH L S ● E G I GI M ● AB GO A M S I ●● NE TA IS DI S RI M. EL RO GE TE CA I IN TA ● 'A IO AN IS ● SE S 45 RG SS P T U ● CE ● S E F R E - B A R E AR I S ● IN N U I R PR LA EA UT ME H ● TT ● DE J R A AM MIT NE ES EN SK LS IN L E AU KB L AR P ● CH S E LL UR YE MA I● IC VO FIF ENT ● ER ● AG U R A N ED T E I FR KE AT I S T I N ● ● WIC OC R T T ● H U ● OV C O K E B ● U B A R I C I N ●● PR L N LO E M DE DO OR ES ON ÈN L SC TO N L WE
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Metro
Featured In This Issue
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COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ● TARA JARMON ● BOOT SHOP ● TED LOUIS VUITTON ● ● BAKER CANDY ROCKETS ● ● LES PETITES F EMPORIO A B PARISIENNES ● RI ● ARMANI CE Brasserie D I A P O M FAÇONNABLE ● MA Lipp N T D ’A P GERARD DAREL ● ISS I● F ● CARON PARIS B SHU UEMURA ● ILL REEL IMO ● IES A COMPTOIR MA NCE ● DES COTONNIERS ● RK ● ARTHUR & FOX ET MURAT ● ● LES I CAMPAGNE JUST ● K MAUBOUSSIN ● CO M O N K S ● LIU JO ● LLE TR ● BURBERRY CT ES OR ●
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ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● CAREL ● DU PAREIL AU MÊME ● ●L HUGO BOSS ● ● D ODIN ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E
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CHRISTOFLE BIJOUX ● LARIO ● COCCINELLE ●
AU VIEUX CAMPEUR: 48 RUE DES ÉCOLES (1KM) ● MAXIMILIEN ● CAROLL ●
● ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● HOTEL PARTICULIER ● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER
SÈVRES - BABYLONE
CLARINS ●
Department Store
Le Bon March é
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S WA R OV SKI APO ● STR OPH E● FA B ● AG HUS R IC A E● BER ● TE THA T R REM AND D IN IS ● ● SE BAKER CEN C IKO E● D IN H VA N LES M ● ● C IT D ID IE O N T R E S Y PH ● R GU ARM E R IN A ●
Moncler is known for its cosy down jackets, which are a winter staple, and its spring/summer 2016 collection is just as desirable. The new season’s womenswear is inspired by the glamour of the 1960s and 70s. Moncler’s signature outerwear is reinterpreted in fabrics such as fl coupé, jacquard and broderie anglaise. Highlights include tailored lightweight jackets in foral silks and stripes. Moncler, 7 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5305 9215, moncler.com
MA X ●W MAR H AT NES A● FOR ●M PRE MA A X& SS MOI S T E L R C O ‘P O O ● ● J ACQ LO ● LA F UA R ORE D FR ST ● ● PR ANÇ A IS ● T IK IN C E S S BER E N IC ● Z A I T IH AWE TA M .T E LES ● J AM A P E T IT O S E P ● G A PA H S HA ● ● IV R E L L A UT LE D E L S AT E L IE S ● ● N ICO IR E A MA ● A R E T H IN IL L E R S ● K IR ● B A M A N D VG S P IE R RE H ANE ● ENT ● IN & S H IL L O ERM ● M D IE S K IE H É ● L’S ● ● C OIN E L L I ● L E S M O PA C O M S N E R E R IS ● C P T O IR D ID E S OTO N N IE E S RS
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84 | G U I D E OPENING TIMES Monday-Sunday: 10am-7pm
DAY TRIP LA VALLÉE VILLAGE Enjoy a unique luxury experience in an ‘open-sky’ outlet just 35 minutes from the centre of Paris and fve minutes from Disneyland ® Paris. La Vallée Village hosts more than 110 boutiques where luxury and fashion brands ofer their previous seasons’
PA R I S PARIS GARE DE LYON
A4
HOW TO GET THERE By Car from Paris Take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; parking is free, with 2,300 spaces. By Car from Reims Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/Entrée A. By Train The closest TGV train station is Marne-laVallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station. By RER train,
Outlet Village
Train Station
collections at prices reduced by a minimum of 33% from the recommended retail price. La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com
MARNE-LA-VALLÉE-CHESSY/ PARC DISNEY STATION VAL D'EUROPE/ SERRIS MONTÉVRAIN STATION La Vallée Village A4 A4
take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station. La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away. A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every Sunday. By Shopping Express ® coach service La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express® service offers six daily departures from place des Pyramides, Porte Maillot and place du Trocadéro. Find more information about it on lavalleevillage.com/shoppingexpress.
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MY PERFECT DAY XIMENA DANERI, SHOP’S FASHION EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE 10am Start the day admiring the signature style of Kenzo. Be sure to pick up one of the label’s sweaters, whose prints are instantly recognisable. 12pm Take a break at Pret A Manger which serves a selection of filled baguettes, salads, fresh soups and a selection of ethically sourced organic coffees. 3pm Discover the secret of effortless chic at Sandro. The French label’s casual fashion for men and women is youthful, ultra-hip and romantic. globalblue.com
4pm Perfect a look of understated cool by visiting The Kooples. The label’s collections combine vintage-inspired pieces with classic tailoring to create an androgynous style that is sure to stand out. 6pm End your day admiring the footwear and luxury leather goods available at Tod’s. The company is best known for its Gommino moccasin, made by hand and featuring 133 pins in its rubber sole.
DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE (€83) This exclusive package includes:
tickets for the Shopping Express luxury • Return coach service from central Paris to the Village VIP card providing a further 10% saving on • Apurchases in six boutiques of your choice at Pret A Manger • Lunch €50 gift voucher to spend at a store of your • Achoice ®
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
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Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
Spend a minimum of €175.01 and save an average of 12% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
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Galeries Lafayete 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris UME Galerie du Claridge, 74 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie 66 66 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie Élysées du 26 26 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris Bucherer 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris
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PHOTO: SHOJI FUJII
TRANSLATIONS
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Petite Perfection
Маленькое совершенство Салли МакИлхоун рассказывает, что чем меньше ваша сумочка в этом сезоне – тем лучше Народная мудрость гласит, что малый золотник чаще всего оказывается дорогим. Судя по новейшим трендам, эта истина полностью применима к сумочкам этого сезона. 2015 был годом мини-сумок, и все, от Prada до Fendi, масштабировали свои культовые модели до миниатюр. Эта тенденция только набирает обороты. Одним из самых востребованных предложений прошлого года стала сумка Petite Malle от Louis Vuitton – уменьшенная globalblue.com
версия классического сундука. С таким аксессуаром в руках были замечены Джулианна Мур, Николь Кидман и другие – так Petite Malle плавно переместился с подиумов на красные ковровые дорожки. В недавнем интервью Vogue исполнительный директор Louis Vuitton Майкл Берк рассказал о своих первоначальных опасениях: он признался, что только благодаря неравнодушию Николя Гескьера этот проект состоялся: «Такие сундуки весьма затратны в производстве, их сложно делать. Поэтому когда Николя сказал, что он задумал, мастера единодушно ответили: «Нет!» Но, разумеется, блестяще справились». Предчувствие не обмануло Гескьера: модная публика приняла этот маленький сундучок настолько хорошо, что к сезону весна/лето 2016 появились новые вариации знаменитой модели. На подиумах можно было увидеть сумки Petite Malle черного цвета с золотым и серебряным металлическим принтом, в красно-черной электрической расцветке с ремнемцепочкой и белой кожаной застежкой. Среди возможных вариаций также можно встретить черные скругленные накладки на углах и разнообразные цветовые решения: розовый, монохромный принт под змеиную кожу или традиционную монограмму Louis Vuitton. Конечно, этот модный дом подготовил к новому сезону много маленьких красивых сумок, так что обязательно оставьте для них пространство в гардеробе (тоже миниатюрное). Меньше значит лучше: многие модные дома Парижа приняли это за истину в отношении сумок. На показе Saint Laurent гранж-принцессы поднимались на подиум с усеянными блестками сумочками, и чаще держали в руках ремни-цепочки, чем надевали их через плечо. Chloé представил мини-сумку из замши горчичного оттенка, украшенную кисточками, вставкамикарманами из коричневой кожи и длинными
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ремнями. Серые и розовые вариации выполнены из кожи и замши и дополнены круглыми хромированными ручками и застежками-цепочками. Такие сумочки подходят к кружевным мини-платьям Chloé в стиле фестивалей 1970-х. Аксессуарные бренды также отдают предпочтение маленьким сумочкам в этом сезоне. Roger Vivier представил черные и оранжевые мини-сумки с цепочкой и бахромой (это сквозной мотив многих коллекций весна/лето 2016), а также квадратные мини-кейсы с металлической отделкой и фронтальной застежкой. Эндрю Джен родом из Сингапура, но в 1996 году он открыл бренд под собственным именем в Париже. В своей 20-ой юбилейной коллекции он представил мини-сумки из кожи с эффектом денима. Помимо бисера на ремнях, в отделке также встречаются яркие цветы, бабочки и разнообразные принты на синем, черном и кремовом фонах. «Я отношусь к сумкам, как к шкатулкам: использую драгоценные материалы, камни, жемчужины, вышивку, – объясняет дизайнер. – И они превращаются в маленькие произведения искусства». Размышляя о популярности этого тренда, Джен утверждает, что дело не только в сумках: «Миниатюризация повсюду. Все, что мы используем, становится меньше и компактнее. Современной женщине важно, чтобы повседневные вещи можно было бы легко найти в небольшой сумке». Обратите внимание на Pocket и Psychedelic, созданные Дженом к сезону весна/лето 2016. Олимпиа Ле-Тан открыла лейбл под собственным именем (Olympia Le-Tan) семь лет назад. Известность ей принесли литературные клатчи и ридикюли: миниатюрные сумки без ручек или ремней напоминают обложки культовых книжек. Новая коллекция Ле-Тан Sentimental Journey навеяна интересом дизайнера к Японии. Она взяла обложки классических японских романов и воссоздала их в клатчах. Серию дополняют кубические сумки с застежкой-складкой и расшитыми лентами. На ее мини-кейсах встречаются стилизованные под Polaroid изображения globalblue.com
женщин в цветных кимоно. Наш фаворит – клатч с вышитым бисером Манэки-нэко (так по-японски называется знаменитое изображение «манящей кошки»), который непременно добавит весенней непредсказуемости вашему образу. В интервью журналу Purple Ле-Тан объясняла, что работа над коллекцией помогла ей продлить детство: «Дети используют войлок для поделок, потому что он не изнашивается и его легко кроить, – объясняет она. – Это и правда простая ткань: она мягкая и может быть милых оттенков. Мне нравится сама текстура. И даже мои вышивки, при всей элегантности и временных затратах, состоят из базовых стежков. Видимо, я просто делаю это очень эффективным способом». Ридикюль в японском стиле, кожаная сумка с принтами и расшитой ручкой или крошечные сундуки – какую бы сумочку вы ни пожелали, у парижских дизайнеров найдется для вас что-нибудь маленькое, но красивое.
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48: Scents Of History
Аромат истории
Ханна Льюис раскрывает секрет долголетия французских парфюмерных домов, которые на протяжении десятилетий создают качественные духи и остаются востребованными Если какая-то страна и может называть себя родиной парфюмерии в том виде, в каком мы ее знаем, то это, разумеется, Франция. Происхождение ароматов связывают еще с древними цивилизациями. Однако именно во Франции их применение стало индустрией. Эта мода началась при французском дворе, который в то время был источником просвещения, и постепенно распространилась в обществе. В наши дни ароматы дарят наслаждение, переносят нас в другие миры, поднимают настроение, пробуждают приятные воспоминания или просто добавляют финальный штрих к модному образу. Каждый год на рынке появляются сотни парфюмов – но лишь некоторые из них выдерживают проверку временем. И за многими долгожителями стоят старинные парфюмерные дома Парижа. Houbigant – один из таких: éанФрансуа Убиган основал его в 1775 году. Его прекрасные ароматы ценили самые значительные персоны разных эпох: французская королева Мария-Антуанетта, император Наполеона, королева Англии Виктория. Houbigant был новатором и в производстве, и в использовании. Например, этой компании принадлежит идея наносить духи на веер, чтобы мягкая волна воздуха приносила лишь тонкий намек на аромат. Творения Houbigant были столь востребованы, что выпускались десятилетиями и даже веками. Духи Fougère Royale, представленные в 1882, стали своего рода революцией: «Если бы у папоротников был свой аромат, это был бы Fougère Royale», – сказал тогда парфюмер Поль Парке. Этот новаторский парфюм положил начало серии, которая остается самой популярной
среди мужчин. Из-за приверженности высокому качеству Houbigant предпочитает удерживать свою линию пусть небольшой, но долговечной. Ведь и сейчас этот запах воспринимается столь же приятным, как раньше. Изменилась упаковка (флакончики теперь бывают и фарфоровые, с 18-каратным золотым покрытием), но очарование Houbigant осталось прежним. Creed – в числе тех немногих парфюмерных домов, которые были основаны еще раньше Houbigant, хотя в Париже он оказался несколько позже. Компания открылась в 1760 году в Лондоне и тоже оказалась в фаворе у королевы Виктории. В 1854 году предприятие перебралось в Париж по приглашению Эжени, императрицы-супруги Наполеона III. И вскоре парфюмеры Creed уже производили духи по заказу королевских дворов Европы и самых взыскательных парижан. В наши дни предприятием по-прежнему руководит семья основателя – его потомок Оливьер Крид с детьми Эрвином и Оливией. Компания продолжает расти и расширяться, и историческое наследие играет в этом процессе ключевую роль: например, первый в истории парфюм Creed под названием Royal English Leather выпускается и сейчас. Как объяснил Оливьер британской газете Telegraph, такой подход позволяет компании поддерживать изначальный дух Creed: «èругие дома вряд ли рискнули бы оставлять в ассортименте нечто настолько старое, но мы независимы и можем себе это позволить», – объясняет он. Эрвин, прямой наследник Кридов, разделяет эту любовь к традиции и подходу Creed. «Мой отец знает точную формулу всех наших парфюмов. Владельцы любого другого бренда могут и не разбираться, из чего состоят их ароматы». Результатом такого всеобъемлющего контроля стала полная свобода творчества. И это, конечно, помогает семье Кридов в работе. У них принципиально нет ограничений ни во времени на разработку, ни в бюджете. Ричард Фрэйсс, парфюмер в Caron, также считает эту независимость критично
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важной: «Мне очень повезло работать в условиях полной свободы, без бюджетных и маркетинговых рамок. Я могу себе позволить редкие натуральные эссенции... чтобы оставаться в традиции качественного парфюма». Caron насчитывает более века истории: компания была основана в 1904 году. Бездонным источником вдохновения для основателя Эрнеста Далтроффа стала его коллега и возлюбленная Фелиция: вместе они создали множество ароматов, определивших индустрию. В 1934 году Caron выпустил первый мужской парфюм Pour Un Homme, который по сей день прекрасно продается. Точно так же одним из культовых продуктов бренда остается парфюм Tabac Blond для женщин, представленный впервые в 1919 году. Флаконы ограниченной серии (например, резной кейс из мрамора и дерева с фигуркой лошади, тянущей за собой Tabac Blond) поддерживают авантюрный дух, который помогает Caron прославиться и не утратить ключевых элементов наследия. Что же делает эти парфюмы столь долговечными? У Фрэйсса есть предположение: «Вопреки открытиям в химии и жажде наживы, духи должны оставаться ценным и качественным продуктом, чья первоначальная задача – дарить обладателю мечту». 56: All Change
Все меняется Парижские дизайнеры переходят от сдержанного стиля к ярким сочетаниям и экспериментам, – рассказывает Харриет Куик Розоволосая Фернанда Ли дефилирует по подиуму Louis Vuitton на фоне огромных цифровых экранов. На ней шифоновая юбка с вышитыми серебром этническими мотивами и розовая байкерская куртка. Рассматривая этот образ, невозможно не заметить, что мода высокого класса заметно изменилась. В последние годы красивая и качественная дизайнерская одежда придерживалась хорошего вкуса и сдержанности. Отсюда знакомые нам globalblue.com
элегантные сумки с золотыми деталями и крой с прицелом на неподвластность времени. Однако в этом сезоне парижские дизайнеры демонстрируют креативность: предназначение вещей из новых коллекций – стать культовыми приобретениями. Louis Vuitton выразил это в сетчатых футболках, расписанных под граффити байкерских куртках, тонированных шелковых комбинезонах, сумках Lockit из экзотических видов кожи, с мелкими колечками и кистями в отделке. А на стильные жилеты нанесен узор с логотипом модного дома и множеством заклепок. Николя Гескьер воплотил в этой коллекции новую атмосферу современного мегаполиса. К общему тренду он добавил немного фэнтези: «Мы говорим о стилизации под ролевую компьютерную игру, где героине нужно пройти несколько эстетических уровней, выраженных в одежде. Таким образом постепенно эволюционирует привычный городской гардероб. Этот процесс напрямую связан с материалами: шелк, кожа, питон и шагрень по-новому играют благодаря знаменитому мастерству нашего модного дома», – рассуждает о своей коллекции Гескьер. Нечто схожее почувствовали на себе многие крупные бренды. Кажется, что самая суть парижского стиля, то невыразимое, что по-французски называется «je ne sais quoi», теперь направлено на новый, смелый, даже вызывающий образ. Представляя новую коллекцию Chanel, Карл Лагерфельд превратил Grand Palais в лаунж-зону аэропорта: там появилось все необходимое для регистрации на рейс и даже огромное мерцающее табло. Цвета Air France, красный, белый и синий, появились в виде геометрических принтов на костюмах, а актуальный интерес к спортивной одежде нашел свое отражение в синих джинсовых свитшотах, дутых куртках, зауженных юбках и плоских серебряных сандалиях. Когда мы инвестируем в качественную одежду, мы платим и за ощущение причастности к текущему моменту. Реагируя на эту потребность, дизайнер марки Sacai
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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Читозе Абе предложила свободные юбки с узором, знакомым нам по банданам, шифоновые платья с асимметричным подолом, синие и золотые кружевные куртки-бомберы. Придумывая все это, она представляла лучшие моменты своих путешествий, уличные банды Мехико и открытки из Италии. Все это повлияло на ее коллекцию, в которую в итоге вошли понастоящему ценные вещи. Одно из важнейших решений, которые нужно принять в этом сезоне, – это вовсе не длина подолов и даже не выбор между мандариновым и кобальтовым. Понастоящему важно – поклясться в верности дизайнерской «банде» и с гордостью носить неожиданные цветовые комбинации и знаки отличия. В случае Dries Van Noten это может быть рубашка с принтом в виде ярких золотых крыльев, у Chloé – контрастные полосы на толстовке спортивного костюма, а у Saint Laurent – струящееся платье из шелкового сатина в стиле 1930-х: в сочетании с резиновыми сапогами и тиарой
оно производит гранжевое впечатление. Братья Демна и Гурам Гвасалия создали бренд Vetements, который сейчас причисляется к парижскому авангарду. Например, свою новую коллекцию они показывали в китчевом китайском ресторане. Свободные в бедрах платья с капюшоном, светлые наряды в сельском стиле и большие куртки с закатанными рукавами – все это сделало показ одним из самых необычных и многообещающих на Парижской неделе моды. «Надежная одежда для настоящей жизни – это основа нашего дизайна, – говорит Демна о принципах бренда. – Мы наблюдаем, реагируем, пропускаем через наш дизайн-фильтр и пробуем воплотить в эстетике Vetements то, что мы постигли из окружающего мира». Сигналом о том, что парижская мода осознала текущие перемены, стало объявление о переходе Демны Гвасалия на пост креативного директора в Balenciaga. Безопасность скучна: самое время перейти на дикую сторону и открыть новую главу модной эволюции. 86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы
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заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译
44: Petite Perfection 小巧玲珑 本季的手提包款式肯定越小越好，Sally McIlhone 带您一探究竟 人们说，好东西总是从小处来。说到手提包的最新 趋势，这一点自然也适用。2015是迷你包大热的一 年，从普拉达（Prada）到芬迪（Fendi），各大品牌 都把自家的经典款做成了微缩版。现在看来，这个趋 势肯定还会延续。 路易威登（Louis Vuitton）去年的产品中，最激动 人心的款式之一便是Petite Malle ——路易威登经 典款行李箱的缩小版。Petite Malle在秀场亮相后很 快便现身红毯，其中两名拥趸就是 Julianne Moore 和Nicole Kidman。最近接受《时尚》（Vogue）采 访时，路易威登总裁Michael Burke说起了自己当 初的担忧，并且承认是设计师 Nicolas Ghesquière 的热情才让这个项目得以推进。 “行李箱造价昂贵而 且很难制作，所以当Nicolas说‘我就是要做这个’ 时，工匠就说‘不行’。不过当然了，最后他们干得 很漂亮。” 正如Ghesquière所设想的，微型行李箱面世后 大受追捧，2016年春夏还将有其他款式陆续面世。 在秀场上， 黑色Petite Malle的包身印有金色和 银色的金属锁链花纹，呈现红色与黑色的海鳐鱼外 观， 并配有链条式皮带和白色的皮质搭扣。嫩粉色 款、单色蛇皮风印花款、经典LV字母款也都采用了 同样的风格，增加了黑色圆形包边细节。新的一季， 路易威登一定会有多款小包可供选择。所以，务必要 在衣柜里腾出（一小块）空间。 许多其他巴黎时尚大牌也纷纷推出了 “越小越 好”的手包。圣罗兰（Saint Laurent）的走秀模特 globalblue.com
便打扮成邋遢的公主，闪闪发光的小口袋用链带拎 在手上，而不是斜挎在肩上。寇依（Chloé）则推出 了芥黄色的小羊皮迷你包，它的前袋被棕色的皮面 盖住，搭配轻盈摇曳的流苏和时下正流行的斜跨背 带。灰色和烟粉色款将牛皮与麂皮混搭，加入彩色 的环行手柄和链状搭扣等细节，与该品牌的20世纪 70年代节日风格的蕾丝迷你裙搭配相得益彰。巴 黎的饰品大师在为手包设计零件时，也选择了微缩 化。Roger Vivier便为黑橙相间的缝制款迷你包配 上了链带和穗子等细节——这是2016年春夏季许多 新品系列的主题。此外，还有以金属银色修饰、带有 前搭扣的方形迷你包。 Andrew Gn虽然来自新加坡，却早在1996年 就于巴黎创办了自己的同名品牌。品牌20周年纪念 系列中精选了数款迷你包，不仅有呈现牛仔效果 的皮革、珠链肩带、鲜艳的花朵和蝴蝶图案，还有 一系列惊人的印花细节绽放在蓝、黑、米色的背景 上。 “我会像设计珠宝盒一样设计迷你包：使用珍贵 的面料、石头、珍珠、刺绣， ”这位设计师说道。 “这 样它们就成了小小的艺术品。”说起这股潮流何以 热门，Gn认为原因不只在于箱包。 “现在到处都讲 究微缩化。我们使用的每件东西都变得更小、更紧 凑。现代女性希望能用迷你包，让生活必需品触手 可及。”2016年春夏季，Gn创作的口袋版荧光迷你 包值得关注。 七年前， Olympia Le-Tan创立了自己的同名 品牌。她从文学作品中汲取灵感，创作了数款手包 和化妆包，并由此一举成名——不带手柄和肩带的 微型装饰包，看上去就像一本经典著作。Le-Tan因 为喜爱日本而受到启发，打造出最新系列作品“感 性旅程（Sentimental Journey）”。经典日本小说 的封面被重新设计成手拿包，并以毛毡制成——这 是Le-Tan的标志性特征。盒状化妆包更是加入了折 叠式开关和刺绣丝带等细节，还将身着亮色和服的 女性图案手工缝制在某些地方，呈现出宝丽来相片 （Polaroid）风格。不过我们最爱的，还是饰有小珠 的Maneki-neko手包——又被称为“诱人的猫”。用 它来为春季造型增添一抹淘气怪诞，再合适不过了。 Le-Tan在接受《紫色》（Purple）杂志的采访 时表示，新产品的创作能够让她继续享受做孩子的 感觉。 “小孩子会用毛毡来制作艺术品和手工艺品， 因为它既不会被磨损，又容易裁剪， ”她说道。 “毛毡 其实是一种原始的面料，既柔软又有可爱的颜色，我 很喜欢它的质地。即便是刺绣品，我用的针法也真 的很基础，相当精细，非常耗时。我猜，我只是在用 很先进的方式从事古老的手工。” 不论您更喜欢散发着日本灵气的minaudière、配有 珠链的印花皮质手包还是微缩版行李箱，巴黎的精 英设计师们总能为您呈上心仪之作。物件虽小，品 貌绝佳。
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48: Scents Of History 历史的香味 法国历史悠久的香水品牌研发出的奢华香氛，数十 年甚至上百年来持续热销。Hannah Lewis带您探 索长盛背后的秘密 众所周知，能够自称为香水发源地的国家非法兰西 莫属。虽然香水的历史可以追溯至古代文明，但它是 在法国才从寻常小物转型成一大产业。这股发端于 法兰西宫廷的潮流，逐渐从人们眼中的文化中心扩 散到了大千社会。如今，令人沉醉其中无法自拔的香 水，被赋予了将我们带去其他世界的力量。人们可以 用香水改善心情、唤起珍贵的回忆，或者只是为衣 服增添一缕余香。每年都会有上百种不同的香水问 世，但能够经受住时间考验的屈指可数。这些经久不 衰的款式中，许多正是出自巴黎的香水老店。 世界上最古老的香水店Houbigant由JeanFrançois Houbigant于1775年创立。从法兰西皇后 玛丽·安托内特（Marie Antoinette）和拿破仑大 帝到英国的维多利亚女王，各个时代的大人物都对 Houbigant家的美丽香氛情有独钟。以其独创性闻 名于世的Houbigant香水不仅制作方式别具一格， 使用方法也独树一帜——例如把它喷在扇子上，让 这完美的幽香随柔风徐徐而来。 数十年甚至上百年来，广受青睐的Houbigant 香水经久不衰，品牌于1882年推出的Fougère Royale更是堪称香水界的革命之作。 “蕨类植物如 果有香味，那就一定是 Fougère Royale的味道， ”当 年的调香师Paul Parquet曾这样说道。这种突破性 的香味开创了一个全新的香系，至今都是最受欢迎 的男式香型。出于对卓越的不懈追求，Houbigant保 持较小的产品种类，专注于香水的永续性。毕竟，堪 称典范的香氛时至今日也一样芬芳怡人；外部包装 可能早已改变—— 例如，当今Fougère Royale的容 器是限量版18K镀金瓷瓶——但Houbigant标志 性的香气却依旧袅袅动人。 创立于Houbigant之前的香水品牌并不 多，Creed是其中一个——虽然它到后来才开始融 入法兰西元素。Creed于1760年在伦敦问世，是维 多利亚女王（Queen Victoria）的又一最爱。1854 年，Creed应拿破仑三世的皇后欧仁妮（Eugénie） 之邀迁至巴黎，很快便开始为巴黎上流人士和其他 欧洲国家的皇室宫廷定制香水。 这家公司一直归创始人家族所有，如今由 Olivier Creed接掌，他的两个孩子Erwin和Olivia 协管。Creed一直在发展壮大，但历史传承仍是品牌 的关键所在。Creed最早的一款香水Royal English Leather至今仍未停产。Olivier在英国的《电讯报》 上解释说，Creed公司之所以能初心不改，全凭其独
特的底蕴——“其他公司可能不敢把这么老的东西 保留下来，但Creed作为一家独立的企业，有能力 将传统款式继续投产， ”他如此说道。继承人Erwin 同样热爱传统，且十分认同父亲的做事方式： “我 父亲知道店里所有香水的精确配方，不像其他香水 商对产品成分一无所知。” 在Creed家族看来，对公司的绝对控制权乃 是品牌的立身之本，这让他们能够独立自主地开 发新香水。最关键的是，在研发过程，他们无需担 忧时间成本和预算。Caron品牌调香师Richard Fraysse也赞同这一点： “我很幸运能拥有真正的 创作自由，可以不受预算和营销的限制。我可以偏 爱珍稀的天然香料……从而秉持奢侈香水的伟大 传统。” 成立于1904年的Caron品牌，已经有了一百 多年的历史。创始人Ernest Daltrof 因其对同事 Félicie的爱慕而迸发灵感，与她联手创造了一系 列充满力量的香水。品牌旗下的第一款男式专用 香水Pour Un Homme于1934年上世，至今依然 畅销。无独有偶，Caron于1919年推出的女士香水 Tabac Blond，到如今仍是品牌的明星产品之一。 在前卫精神的驱动下，Caron虽享誉全球，却从不 曾将历史遗产中的核心元素改动分毫。各种限量版 香水瓶中也保留了这种精神，例如有的瓶子将大理 石与木料结合，雕刻出马匹拉动一瓶Tabac Blond 的图案。 究竟是什么让这些香水经久不衰？Fraysse的 回答颇有几分道理： “尽管化学学科取得了许多进 步，尽管人们追逐着利润，但香水仍应是一种珍稀 而宝贵的奢侈品，这样才不会失去香水最初的目 的：让用香人如入梦中。”
56: All Change 改头换面 巴黎的顶级设计师们渐渐回避低调路线，不显山 露水的奢侈时尚正被张扬夺目、别出心裁的风格取 代，Harriet Quick为您娓娓道来 路易威登（Louis Vuitton）T台上，名模Fernanda Ly头顶粉色长发，摇曳生姿。耸立两侧的数码屏幕 中，雪纺短裙上的银色刺绣散发着部落风情，配以 糖果粉色的机车夹克，诉说着一种不同寻常的奢侈 品表达方式。 近年来，设计师们用绝佳的品味和低 调的内涵为时尚作品赋予了奢华、精致的本色，并 通过一只只优雅的手提包展现出来——黄金硬件 搭配一流裁剪，魅力恒久。本季，巴黎设计师们大胆 创新，为我们带来了注定会热销的非凡单品。路易 威登不仅推出了网纹T恤和喷满涂鸦的机车夹克， 更有饰以环扣和流苏、采用珍稀皮料的 Lockit手
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袋，层染真丝连身衣以及饰有LV标志和一连串铆 钉的马甲。 在系列新品中，Nicolas Ghesquière不仅注入 了现代大都市的能量与态度，还增添了些许奇幻的 感觉。 “这是一场着装风格的角色扮演，使穿着者 的衣品跨越数个档次。在不同审美层级间过渡的都 市人，将经历一场衣橱大革命，经典款单品将逐渐 被纯天然面料重新塑造。凭借品牌无与伦比的制作 能力，路易威登已然用真丝、皮革、蟒皮和鲨革‘重 新占领’了人们的衣橱。” Ghesquière对本季新品 评价道。 这种开拓进取的热情，人们在各路大牌中都曾 感受过。大家对巴黎风情的看法似乎已经不同—— 那句“难以言喻”( je ne sais quoi)中的漫不经心，那 对微妙细节的热烈追求，已转变成另一种崭新的风 貌。例如，香奈儿（Chanel）设计师Karl Lagerfeld 便将巴黎大皇宫改造成了机场休息室，不仅有值机 工作人员，还设有闪烁着出发信息的大屏幕；法国航 空公司的红、白、蓝三色标志则化身为泼洒着几何印 花的连体衣。他还以牛仔蓝汗衫、便装夹克、直筒裙 和银色平底凉鞋满足了人们当下对运动装的热爱。 投资奢侈时尚单品，相当于为一种令人激动 的“当下感”买单。日本品牌Sacai的设计师Chitose Abe创作的扎染印花短裙、带有不对称褶边的雪 纺连衣裙和蓝金双色的蕾丝飞行员夹克，便能引发 人们的这种渴望。这位极具影响力的设计师一直从 自己的旅途中发掘灵感，从墨西哥的街头帮派到意 大利明信片上的图案，种种邂逅对她产生了微妙的 影响，在她的妙手之下，融合成了毋庸置疑的精彩 之作。 本季，最难抉择的不是底边款式，不是橘红色 或钴蓝色，而是要不要认定某“一派”设计师，骄傲 地将他们打造的色彩和标志穿上身。如果选择Dries Van Noten，便意味着饰有金色双翼的衬衫；选择 寇依（Chloé），则有以条纹做侧面装饰的酷炫田径
上衣；选择圣罗兰（Saint Laurent），便可穿上以做 旧丝缎制成的无袖吊带裙，用满满的20世纪30年代 风情搭配繁复多彩的雨靴和凌乱的头冠。 在当今的巴黎，最具革命性的品牌当属由 Gvasalia兄弟——Demna和Guram二人担纲设计 的Vetements品牌。该品牌在一家传统中餐馆里举 行了新系列作品发布会：巧妙改制的带帽连衣裙，宽 松随意的草地裙，袖子裁短后呈筒状的廓形夹克， 这一系列无疑是巴黎时装周最激动人心的作品之 一。 “在我们的设计过程中，能在日常生活中穿着、 方便搭配的服饰是基础。” Demna如此形容这个 品牌的设计方针， “我们认真观察、耐心应对，通过设 计来展现生活，努力地把我们从身边吸收到的灵感 转化为Vetements的美学。” 去年10月，巴黎世家（Balenciaga）宣布聘请 Demna Gvasalia为新任创意总监时，巴黎时尚界 似乎已然完成了观念的转变。安全感多么无聊—— 是时候疯狂一把，在这场奢侈品革命的新篇章中尽 情狂欢了！
86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€175.01即可节约高达购买价格12%的金 额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣 除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位 收取现金退税手续费。 globalblue.com
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والشارات بفخر .قد يكون ذلك لدى Dries Van Noten قميصاً مزخرفاً بأجنحة ذهبيّة ،ولدى Chloéقميصاً رياضيّاً مز ّودا ً بشا”ط جانبيّة ،ولدى Saint Laurentفستاناً ناعمً من الساتان الحريري بأسلوب الثلثينات ،يُلبَس مع جزمة مطر مط ّرزة الجوانب وتاج بالٍ. من أبرز العلمات التجارية الثورية ف باريس اليوم ،علمة Vetementsمن ابتكار مجموعة من الصممي تحت إشاف ا–خوين Demnaو .Guram Gvasaliaأطلقت مجموعتها ف مطعم صيني متواضع ،وشكّلت إحدى أكث الجموعات الثية للهتمم ف أسبوع باريس للموضة من خلل فساتي مز ّودة بقبّعات وواسعة عند الوركي ،وفساتي ريفيّة منسدلة وستات ضخمة بأكمم مص ّممة لتبدو مطويّة .ويقول Demnaعن منهج العلمة التجارية“ :تقوم تصاميمنا عل ملبس واقعيّة ذات صلة. نراقب ونتفاعل ونسكب ما نراه حولنا ف مصفاة التصميم لنتجمه بأسلوب .”Vetements عندما ُع ّي Demna Gvasaliaمديرا ً إبداعيّاً جديدا ً لـ Balenciagaف تشين ا–ول/أوكتوبر الاض ،بدا أ ّن أزياء باريس قد أكملت مناوبتها ف نش التوعية .وبا أ ّن السار المن يولّد اللل ،حان وقت الغامرة والغوص ف هذا الفصل الجديد من تح ّول الفخامة. When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 86
بعدة مراحل جمليّة .ولدى الرور ف هذه الراحل ،يُعاد تدريجيّاً إتقان تط ّور اللبس الكلسيكية الحضية ،من مواد حقيق ّية للغاية. فيُعاد استخدام الحرير والجلد وجلد الثعبان والجلد ال ُحبّب من خلل معرفة الدار الشهية”. ظهرت هذه الحمسة القوية للواقع الحازم لدى مجموعة متنوعة من العلمات التجارية الكبى .ويبدو أنّه ت ّم قَلب السلوب الباريس – الستهت اللمبال الا”ل إل الغموض -رأساً عل عقب لكشف النقاب عن روح جديدة شجاعة .ف ،Chanelعل سبيل الثال ،ح ّول Karl Lagerfeldمركز Grand Palaisال بهو مطار يض ّم طاقم عمل لتسجيل الدخول وشاشة عملقة مضيئة تذكر الرحلت الغادرة .وقد انعكست ألوان ا–حمر وا–بيض الخاصة بالخطوط الجوية الفرنسية ف أشكا ٍل هندسيّة وا–زرق ّ تجسدت موضة اللبس الرياضيّة ف قمصان متألقة ،ف حي ّ من الدّنيم ا–زرق وستات مبطّنة وتناني ضيّقة وصنادل فضيّة مسطّحة. عندما نستثمر ف أزياء فاخرة ،ندفع ثن الحمسة النية. أثارت الص ّممة التميّزة Chitose Abeلدى العلمة التجارية اليابانيّة ،Sacaiهذا الشعور من خلل تناني مطبّعة بنقوش عصبات الرأس وفساتي من الشيفون بحواش ما”لة وستات منتفخة من القمش الخ ّرم باللوني ا–زرق والذهبي .أحيَت ٍ ذكريات من أسفارها فطرأت عل بالها عصابات الشوارع الص ّممة ف الكسيك ورسوم البطاقات البيدية ف إيطاليا ودمجت هذه العناص التعددة لتبتكر قطعاً غاية ف التميّز. لذا ،ل ترتبط القرارات اله ّمة التي عليك اتّخاذها هذا الوسم بالحواش ول باللّون البتقال ا–فندي أو ا–زرق الناصع، معي وارتداء هذه ا–لوان بل بإعلن الولء إل “عصابة” مص ّمم ّ
عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة
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taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من ثن مشتياتك.
يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
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Scents Of History :48
عطور من التاريخ
دور العطور الفرنسية العريقة تبتكر عطورا ً فاخرة تبقى ذائعة س الصيت لعقود ،ل بل لقرون -تبحث Hannah Lewisعن ّ هذه الديومة إن كان لدولة أن تلقّب نفسها “هد العطور ،فهي فرنسا بالتأكيد .ف حي تعود جذور العطور إل العصور القدية ،تح ّول استخدامها التواضع إل صناعة ف فرنسا دون غيها .انطلقت الوضة من البلط الفرنس الذي اعتُ ِب مركزا ً للثقافة ،وانتشت تدريجياً إل رقع ٍة أوسع .واليوم ،بات العطر لذّة تلك القدرة عل نقلنا إل عوال أخرى أو تحسي مزاجنا أو إيقاظ ذكرياتنا العزيزة أو ببساطة إضافة لسة أخية إل ملبسنا .بينم تظهر مئات أنواع العطور كل سنة ،قليلة هي التي تنجح ف اختبار الزمن .وتُصنع الكثي من العطور العريقة ف دور العطور التاريخية ف باريس. سنة ،1775أسس Jean-François Houbigantدار ،Houbigantأحد أقدم صانعي العطور ف العال .نالت عطوره الجميلة إعجاب أبرز الشخصيات ف عصه ،من اللكة الفرنسية Marie Antoinetteوالمباطور نابليون إل اللكة فكتوريا ف إنكلتا .اشتهر Houbigantبالبتكار ،سواء ف طريقة صنع العطور أو ف طريقة استخدامها ،عل سبيل تعطي الراوح لتبعث العطر مع كل حركة. لقت ابتكارات Houbigantرواجاً كبيا ً فاستمرت لعقود، ل بل لقرون .وشكّل إطلق عطر Fougère Royaleسنة 1882ثورة ف عال العطور .قال العطّار Paul Parquetف ذلك الوقت“ :إن كان للسخس من رائحة ،لكان عطر Fougère ،“ Royaleوولّد هذا العطر الذهل عائلة جديدة من العطور ل تزال الشهر للرجال .ونتيجة التزامه الطلق بالتميّز ،يحافظ دار Houbigantعل مجموعته الصغية ،مع التكيز عل الديومة. ل تزال الرائحة مميزة اليوم كم كانت ف أي وقت مض ،ففي النهاية وعل الرغم من تغيي الزجاجة – يكن اليوم شاء العطر ف قوارير محدودة الكميّة من الخزف الطل بالذهب عيار 18 قياط – ل يتغي تألّق عطور Houbigantالشهية. Creedهو أحد دور العطور القليلة القدم من ،Houbigantعل الرغم من بدء العن– الباريس من تاريخه ف تأسس Creedسنة 1760ف لندن وكان من الدور وقت لحقّ . الفضلة أيضاً لدى اللكة فكتوريا .سنة ،1854انتقلت الشكة إل باريس بدعوة من ،Eugénieالمباطورة قرينة نابليون الثالث، وسعان ما شع عطّاروها يصنعون عطورا ً بحسب الطلب لنبلء باريس وبلطات دول أوروبية أخرى. الؤسسة ويديرها اليوم Olivier ل تزال الشكة ملكًا للعائلة ّ “ Creedساعدة ولديه Erwinو .Oliviaالشكة ماضية بالنم ّو والتوسع ،لكن يبقى الرث عن–ا ً أساسيّاً؛ ما زالت تنتج أقدم عط ٍر لديها وهو .Royal English Leatherكم أوضح Olivier لصحيفة Telegraphالبيطانيّة ،بفضل الطبيعة الفريدة التي تتمتّع بها الشكة ،تحافظ عل روحية Creedالصلية ويقول: “قد تخش دو ًٌر أخرى الحفاظ عل شء بهذا القدم ،لكن بفعل استقلليّتنا ،يكننا الستمرار بخلقها” .يشاطره الوريث Erwin هذا الشغف بالتقاليد وبأسلوب “ .Creedيعرف أب التكيبة
الدقيقة لكافّة عطوره ،ف حي ل يعرف بعض أصحاب العلمات مم تتك ّون عطورهم”. التجارية الخرى ّ ما تعتبه عائلة Creedعامل محددا ً لها هو سيطرتها الطلقة عل أعملها وبالتال الستقلليّة بإطلق عطور جديدة. والهم أنه ليس من ٍ وقت محدّد لبتكار عطر جديد ول من عب عن هذه الهمية ،Richard Fraysse ميزانيّة محدّدة .وقد ّ مبتكر العطور لدى “ .Caronأنا محظوظ “ا فيه الكفاية لتتّع بحرية البداع الكاملة ،من دون أي قيود عل اليزانية أو التسويق. يكنني اختيار الخلصات العطرية الطبيعية النادرة ...وذلك لبقى وفياً لرث العطور الفاخرة العظيم”. تأسس دار Caronسنة ،1904لذا يتمتّع “ا يزيد عن ّ مؤسسه Ernest Daltroffمن حبّه قرن من التاريخ .استلهم ّ لزميلته Félicieوأنشآ معاً مجموعة من العطور القوية .ت ّم إطلق عطر الدار ال ّول للرجال ،Pour Un Homme ،سنة 1934وما زال يس ّجل مبيعات عالية حتى يومنا هذا .وينطبق المر نفسه عل عطر Tabac Blondللنساء الذي أُطلِق سنة ،1919إذ ل يزال أحد أبرز منتجات .Caronوتجدر الشارة إل أ ّن القوارير الحدودة الكميّة ،عل سبيل علبة من الرخام والخشب منحوتة بشكل حصان يج ّر قارورة ،Tabac Blondتحافظ عل روح البتكار التي دفعت Caronإل الشهرة من دون تغيي عناص إرثه الحيوية. كل هذه السني؟ لدى ما الذي يجعل هذه العطور صامدة ّ Fraysseالجواب الحتمل“ .عل الرغم من التط ّورات ف مجال الكيمياء والسعي وراء الربح ،ل ب ّد أن يبقى العطر منتجاً فاخرا ً نادرا ً وثي ًنا ،ك ل يفقد غرضه الصل وهو حمل واضعه عل الستسال بالحلم”. All Change :56
جذري تغييٌ ّ
يتج ّنب كبار الصممي ف باريس الزياء التواضعة الستتة الفخامة مفضّ لي القطع الجريئة والسلوب التجريبي -تقرير Harriet Quick فيم كانت عارضة الزياء ذات الشعر الزهري Fernanda Ly تسي عل منصة عرض ُ Louis Vuittonمحاطة بب ٍج من
فض الشاشات الرقمية ف ت ّنورة من الشيفون مزخرفة بتطريز ّ شبه قبل وستة جلديّة زهريّة اللّون ،اتّضح أن تغييا ً كب ًيا يطرأ عل لغة التف .ففي السنوات الخية ،عكست أزياء الصممي الفاخرة التقنة حسن الذوق والتحفّظ من خلل حقائب يد أنيقة مزخرفة بقطعٍ ذهبيّة وخياطة حرفيّة تبدو أبديّة .أ ّما هذا الوسم، فأطلق الصممون ف باريس العنان للبداع وقدموا ابتكارات باهرة مق ّدرا ً لها أن تجذب الليي .أتت هذه البتكارات لدى Louis Vuittonعل شكل قمصان شبكيّة وستات جلديّة مرشوشة بالغرافيتي وحقائب Lockitمن الجلود الغريبة مزيّنة بحلقات شابات وأوفارولت حريريّة مدبوغة بإساف ومعاطف مزينة و ّ ليس بشعار الدار فحسب ،بل أيضاً بكميّة وفية من الزرار. عكس Nicolas Ghesquièreطاقة الدينة الع–يّة وطابعها ف هذه الجموعة ،مضيفاً إليها نفح ًة من اللذّة .يقول Ghesquièreعن الجموعة“ :إنها لعبة أدوار ت ّر فيها البطلة globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية Petite Perfection :44
إتقانٌ ُمصغر
ل ّ شك أ ّن الصغر هو الفضل ف مجال حقائب اليد لهذا الوسم، تقرير Sally McIlhone
PHOTO: PALAST-JMANIGAND
يُقال“ :تأت الشياء الجيّدة برزمٍ صغية” ،وينطبق ذلك حرفيّاً عل أحدث موضة متعلّقة بحقائب اليد .تثّلت موضة العام 2015بالحقائب الصغّرة ،فقامت سائر العلمات التجاريّة ،من Pradaإل Fendiبتصغي تصاميمها الشهية إل أحجامٍ مصغّرة؛ ويبدو أ ّن هذه الوضة مستم ّرة. كانت حقيبة Petite Malleمن Louis Vuittonمن أكث التصاميم إثارة السنة الاضية .إنّها نسخة متقلّصة عن حقيبة السفر التقليديّة من Louis Vuittonوقد انتقلت بسعة من منصات العرض إل الس ّجادة الحمراء بيد Julianne Moore ّ ٍ حديث أجرته مجلّة Vogue و Nicole Kidmanوغيهم .ف خرا ً مع ،Michael Burkeالدير التنفيذي لـ Louis مؤ ّ عب عن مخاوفه ف البداية واعتف أ ّن شغف الص ّمم ّ ،Vuitton Nicolas Ghesquièreوحده دفع الشوع إل المام. يقول“ :صناعة حقائب السفر مكلفة وصعبة ،لذا عندما قال ”:Nicolasهذا ما أريد القيام به” قال الحرفيّون””:كل” ،لك ّنهم حق ف صناعتها”. برعوا عن ّ وتباعاً لرؤية ،Ghesquièreلقت الحقيبة الصغية رواجاً كبيا ً فاُطلِقت تصاميم أخرى لربيع/صيف .2016ظهرت حقيبة منصة العرض باللّون السود وبنقش سلسلة Petite Malleعل ّ اللمع ،كم وبنسخة باللّوني الحمر باللّوني الذهبي ّ والفض ّ والسود بالضافة إل حبلٍ عل شكل سلسلة وقفلٍ من الجلد البيض .كم خضع التصميم لتعديلت ليشمل زوايا سوداء دائريّة ف حقائب باللّون الزهري الباهت أو ذات ِ نقش جلد الفعى الحادي اللّون أو مزخرفة بالحرف الول للعلمة .ل ّ شك أنّه ث ّة مجموعة كبية من حقائب Luois Vuittonلتختاري منها هذا الوسم ،لذا افسحي لها مجالً (مص ّغرا ً) ف خزانتك. تبي أ ّن حقائب اليد الصغر حجمً أفضل لدى الكثي من وقد ّ دور الزياء الباريسيّة الرئيسيّة الخرى .مشت عارضات Saint
النصة حاملت بأيديهن سلسل حقائب مزخرفة Laurentعل ّ بالتتر بدلً من تعليقها عل أكتافه ّن .أ ّما ،Chloéفابتكرت شابات وبجيوب حقائب صغية من جلد السويد الخردل مز ّودة ب ّ أماميّة بنيّة اللّون وبأحزمة تُحمل بشكلٍ مائل بحسب الوضة. َمزجت القطع ذات اللّوني الرمادي والزهري الباهت الجلد بالسويد ولجأت إل قبضات دائريّة من الكروم وأقفال سلسل، مك ّمل ًة فساتي Chloéالقصية الخ ّرمة الستوحاة من الهرجانات ف السبعينات. ويلجأ اختصاصيّو الكسسوارات ف باريس أيضاً إل تصغي حجم الحقائب .ابتكرت علمة Roger Vivierحقائب صغية باللّوني السود والبتقال مز ّودة بسلسل وحواش وهي موضة متّبعة ف الكثي من مجموعات ربيع/صيف ،2016بالضافة إل حقيبة صغية مربّعة الشكل وفضيّة اللّون مع قفلٍ أمامي. يتجذّر الص ّمم Andrew Gnمن سنغافورة ،لك ّنه افتتح علمته التجاريّة التي تحمل إسمه ف باريس سنة .1996تض ّمنت الحقائب الصغية التي أطلقها ف مجموعة ذكرى التأسيس مرصعة بالحجار وتصاميم وحملت ّ العشين جلدا ً شبيهاً بالدّنيم ّ بشكل أزهار وفراشات زاهية ومجموعة من النقوش الذهلة الشغولة بدقّة عل خلفيّات زرقاء وسوداء وبيج .يشح الص ّمم قائلً“ :أص ّمم حقائبي الصغية كصناديق مجوهرات ،فأستخدم مودا ً ثينة وأحجارا ً كرية وللئ وأقمشة مط ّرزة ،فتستحيل تحفاً فنيّة صغية” .وعن سبب رواج هذه الوضة ،يقول Gnإنّها كل ما حولنا. تتخطّى حدود الحقائب“ .يسيطر الحجم الصغي عل ّ كل ما نستخدم .وترغب الرأة العصيّة أن يجري تصغي وتقلي” ّ تكون أغراضها اليوميّة الساسيّة “تناول يدها ف حقيب ٍة مصغّرة”. إلقي نظرة عل حقائب Gnالتناهية الصغر والغنيّة باللوان لربيع/صيف .2016 أطلقت الص ّممة Olympia Le-Tanعلمتها التي تحمل إسمها منذ سبع سنوات وحقّقت الشهرة بفضل حقائبها الصغية الستوحاة من الدب وتلك غي الز ّودة بقبضة أو سلسل بل مزخرفة ومص ّممة لتشبه الكتب .مجموعة Le-Tanالخية Sentimental Journeyمستوحاة من حبّها لليابان .لجأت الص ّممة إل أغلفة روايات يابانيّة كلسيكيّة فأعادت ابتكار تصاميمها ف حقائب صغية من اللبّاد الذي تشتهر به بالضافة إل حقائب مربّعة تُقفل بالثني ومز ّودة بأشطة مط ّرزة .ومن الحقائب الصغية الخرى الثية للهتمم ،حقيبة تحمل صورا ً بزي الكيمونو اليابان .ومن أفضل زاهية مدروزة يدويّاً لنساء ّ التصاميم حقيبة ( Manekinekoأي اله ّر الذي يومئ) ،الثاليّة لضفاء لسة مميّزة إل إطللة ربيعيّة. ٍ حديث مع مجلّة ،Purpleشحت Le-Tanأنّها تبتكر ف مجموعتها كوسيلة لتبقى طفلة .تقول ف هذا الصدد“ :يستخدم قصه. ينسل ويسهل ّ الولد اللبّاد للفنون والشغال الحرفيّة لنّه ل ُ أحب إنّه ف الواقع ٌ نسيج بدائ يتميّز بالنعومة واللوان الجميلةّ . هذا النسيج ،وأستخدم القطب الساسيّة حتّى ف التطريز البتكر. أعتقد أنّني أقوم بذلك بطريقة متقدّمة للغاية”. حملة مستوحاة من إن كنت تفضّ لي حقيبة صغية من دون ّ مرصع بالحجار اليابان أو حقيبة يد جلديّة منقوشة مز ّودة بحبلٍ ّ أو حقيبة مربّعة صغية ،ل ب ّد أن تجدينها لدى نخبة مص ّممي باريس الذين يبتكرون أي حقيبة فاخرة قد ينبض لها قلبك ،حقيبة صغية الحجم لكن مثاليّة الشكل.
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GUERLAIN Founded by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain in 1828 to create bespoke perfumes, French luxury brand Guerlain has since expanded into skincare and make-up. However, it remains best known for iconic fragrances such as Eau de Cologne Impériale, launched in 1853, Jicky from 1889, and Shalimar, created in 1925, which are still bestsellers today. This vintage advertising campaign from 1919 is for Mitsouko, another of Guerlain’s still-popular creations. This mysterious, sumptuous scent was inspired by Japanese culture – many in Europe had a fascination for the country at this time – and is said to have been named after the globalblue.com
heroine of a successful romantic novel published in 1909. In 1994, the family sold the eponymous company to LVMH, with Jean-Paul Guerlain – the fourth generation of master perfumers – staying on until his retirement eight years later. Since 2000, Guerlain’s creative director has been Olivier Échaudemaison, a long-time fan of another of the house’s signature scents, Vétiver, which is as popular with men today as when it first appeared in 1959. fm Guerlain, 68 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 5257, guerlain.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 76
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