SHOP Paris Lux SS17

PARIS | ПАРИЖ | 巴黎 |

PARIS Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2017

Page 38 FUTURE PERFECT: discover how couture is evolving for the 21st century

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this classically beautiful European capital. Paris has much to offer, as our guide on page 61 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class fashion will enjoy our feature on the young designers shaking up the world of haute couture (page 38), and in this issue we also explore the burgeoning 1980s trend (page 44) and recommend five top menswear boutiques (page 52). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Paris. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Theresa Harold Journalist Theresa Harold writes for publications that include Prestige Hong Kong, AsiaSpa and Harper’s Bazaar UK. Having worked in Hong Kong and Macau, she covers the latest in luxury living from her base in London. globalblue.com

Harriet Quick Esteemed fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and British Vogue, where she was the title’s fashion features director for over a decade. Harriet’s finger is firmly on the sartorial pulse.

Hannah Lewis SHOP’s features editor Hannah Lewis read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before studying for an MA at the London College of Fashion. She has previously produced her own magazine in London.

ILLUSTRATION: JACK HUGHES; PHOTO: (RIGHT) KATIE WILSON ELL

Jack Hughes Jack Hughes created this season’s cover artwork for SHOP Paris Luxury. His elegant style made him the perfect choice of illustrator; the petals falling from the model’s dress to reveal the more contemporary pattern beneath symbolise the way couture is evolving for the 21st century. Read more about this in our feature on page 38. Jack’s other clients include Google, River Island and the Sunday Telegraph. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Jack Hughes Contributors Theresa Harold, Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Natalie Schroeter

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

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Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworker Milkha Lala Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay

GLOBA L BLU E F R A NCE Country manager Francis Chommaux Marketing sales manager Marie Laporte Marketing coordinators Luisa Montero, Patrice Simeon

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio services production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

PRODUCTS

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Parisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best dressed during Paris Fashion Week

NEWS 30 32

FEATURES 38

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Cover story: Couture For The Future

Once the preserve of historic Parisian maisons, the world of haute couture is evolving. Theresa Harold discovers the names shaking up this traditional arena

Blast From The Past Designers embraced 1980s references galore this season, bringing the exaggerated glamour of the decade into the modern arena. Harriet Quick reports on a welcome new sense of boldness and exuberance Top Five Menswear Destinations From timepieces to leather goods, clothing to accessories, Hannah Lewis rounds up five unmissable menswear boutiques in the prestigious Golden Triangle neighbourhood

Above (from left): the new Japan Store Isetan Mistukoshi; Chanel spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): CYRILLE GEORGE JERUSALMI; ÂŠ GORUNWAY.COM

louisvuitton.com

Tambour Automatic Chronograph

CONTENTS

PAGE

EXPERIENCE 56

On The Rise Paris bakeries are among the best in the world, writes Mónica R Goya

GUIDE 61

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

ESSENTIALS 76

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 77 美文翻译 80 Русский Перевод 88

SOUVENIR 90

The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE... Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent

Above (top): ‘pain des amis’ is one of the speciality loaves at Du Pain et des Idées bakery

PHOTOS ( FROM TOP): MÓNICA R. GOYA; MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

DELVAUX PALAIS ROYAL Jardins du Palais Royal, 151-154 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris, France

CH ECK OUT

50s CHIC This boxy new Céline bag is an elegant, timeless design in sleek red calfskin leather with gold hardware, reminiscent of the classic structured handbags of the 1950s. Its minimal, elegant gold metal clasp opens to reveal a central zipped pocket and

two interior compartments. The high-shine leather has a contrasting lining and the bag has an extra strap so it can be worn crossbody as well as carried. This feminine, sophisticated offering from the Parisian fashion house is guaranteed to be a popular choice this coming spring/summer season. For a daytime look,

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

team it with jeans and a tailored blazer; it will look equally chic with an elegant silk dress in the evening. fm Céline bag, €2,900, Céline, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4070 0703, celine.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

Porsche Design Timepieces

CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1 All Black Carbon Designed by Studio F. A. Porsche. Swiss Made.

CHRONOTIMER COLLECTION INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR MOTORSPORT

www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design Paris | Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorÃ© 23

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POOLSIDE GLAMOUR Go retro and add a twist of vintage Italian style to your swimwear this season

1. Maison Michel headband, €200, Maison Michel, 22 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4508 9462, michel-paris.com

3. Mykita x Maison Margiela sunglasses, €395 each, Mykita, 2 rue du Pas de la Mule, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4271 4819, mykita.com

5. Acqua Di Parma purse spray, €118, Acqua di Parma, 6 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4274 8708, acquadiparma.com

2. Eres Cassiope swimsuit, €325, Eres, 2 rue Tronchet, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4742 2882, eresparis.com

4. Miu Miu bag, €1,400, Miu Miu, 92 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com

6. Chanel lipstick, €34, Chanel, 52 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5375 8720, chanel.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTO: (3) MYKITA GMBH

S H O P | 21

LUXURY ESSENTIALS Choose staple pieces that will help you make a stylish transition between seasons

PHOTOS: (1) PAOLO MARCHESI; (2) MARC SCHWARTZ

1. Fratelli Rosetti loafers, €650, Fratelli Rossetti, 237 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 2660, fratellirossetti.com

3. Smythson document holder, €1,025, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, smythson.com

5. Salvatore Ferragamo ties, €145 each, Salvatore Ferragamo, 46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4312 9696, ferragamo.com

2. Vilebrequin shirt, €185, Vilebrequin, 281 rue Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4015 6406, vilebrequin.com

4. Gant belt, €119.99, Gant, 41 boulevard des Capucines, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4286 0965, gant.com

6. Omega Speedmaster Moonphase watch, €9,400, Omega, 362-364 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 0360, omegawatches.com

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ALL ABOUT ORANGE

Stand out in these orange leather loafers, paired with a graphic printn 3

1. Closed shirt dress, €249, Closed, 18 rue de Poitou, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4278 4052, closed.com

3. Elsa Schiaparelli bag, price on request, Maison Schiaparelli, 21 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7621 6260, schiaparelli.com

5. 4711 Acqua Colonia Blood Orange & Basil eau de Cologne, 50ml, €20, Marionnaud, 104 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5396 5000, 4711.com

2. Thierry Lasry sunglasses, €480, Thierry Lasry, 40 rue du Four, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4327 4465, thierrylasry.com

4. Wempe earrings, €995, Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com

6. Nicholas Kirkwood shoes, €365, Biondini, 78 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4359 1159, nicholaskirkwood.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTOS: (2) NICOLAS LOUIS; (4) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

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DRESS TO IMPRESS

A vibrant print or bold colour injects style into a casual look

1. Acne Studios jacket, €380, Acne Studios, 3 rue Froissart, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4996 9691, acnestudios.com

3. Ermenegildo Zegna shoes, €395, Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com

2. Tod’s document folder, €695, Tod’s, 17-21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 1616, tods.com

4. Etro shirt, €550, Etro, 66 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4007 0940, etro.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

5. Frescobol Carioca swimming trunks, €176, Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, frescobolcarioca.com

PHOTO: (3) CARLO BEVILACQUA

M O N TA I G N E PA R I S AV E N U E M O N TA I G N E + 3 3 1 4 2898 34 5 PA L A I S D E S CO N G R E S N I V E A U - 1 PA R I S + 3 3 1 4 0 6 8213 0 C A N N E S 62 , L A C R O I S E T T E + 3 3 4 9394 0101 LYO N 2 , R U E C H I L D E B E R T + 3 3 4 784 2 2 26 6 M O N A CO 27, AV E N U E D E L A CO S TA + 37 7 9797124 2 E S C A DA . COM

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WILD THING Let your accessories do the talking alongside this timeless Vivienne Westwood jacket 1

1. Pomellato rings, €1,600 each, Pomellato, 66 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 6207, pomellato.com

3. Sicis necklace, €77,800, Sicis, 41 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 8989, sicis.com

2. Vivienne Westwood blazer, €960, Vivienne Westwood, 175 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 8479 3399, viviennewestwood.com

4. Penhaligon’s Artemisia solid fragrance, €67, Penhaligon’s, 209 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4926 9166, penhaligons.com

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5. Chloé shoes, €595, Chloé, 253 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5504 0330, chloe.com

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STREET ST YLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

At Paris Fashion Week, a femme fatale silhouette was much in evidence: highwaisted, belted and corseted styles in heavier materials such as leather and denim created the perfect mix-and-match look, featuring brands such as Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Miu Miu and Dior

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

S H O P | 29

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SHOP WINDOW

MILESTONE MOMENT Chaumet has unveiled a jewellery boutique that specialises exclusively in wedding pieces, thus honouring the maison’s foundations. Established in 1780, Chaumet was appointed as the official jeweller of Empress Joséphine: her union with Napoléon has been a continuous source of inspiration, with the brand’s

creations being a celebration of love. The new store, opened in 2016 next to the brand’s longstanding flagship on place Vendôme, presents pieces from Chaumet’s jewellery and high jewellery collections, including engagement rings, wedding bands and tiaras. Interior designer Elizabeth Leriche conceived the elegant space, using the finest

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materials to highlight the French maison’s history and exquisite creations: this is the place to find the perfect piece to mark one of life’s key events. grc Chaumet, 12 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4477 2424, chaumet.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

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FLAVOUR OF THE EAST The new Japan Store Isetan Mitsukoshi in the Maison de la Culture du Japon Ă Paris gives a genuine taste of its mother store in Tokyo, one of the oldest and largest department stores in Japan. Customers can browse artisanal teas, textiles, porcelain and culinary products as well as a variety of ready-to-wear garments, shoes and jewellery by popular Japanese designers. The Japanese cultural centre in which the store is located also hosts an events and exhibition space popular with locals and visitors alike. rre The Japan Store Isetan Mitsukoshi, 101 bis quai Branly, 75015 Paris, +33 (0)1 4572 2733, thejapanstore.mistore.jp/paris

For spring/summer 2017, Joseph embraces the spirit of the nomad and brings it into an urban setting. Utilitarian looks are combined with shirts, knitwear and sports influences in a play on deconstruction, layering and the oversized. In addition to this reinvention of classic styles, keep an eye out for the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collaboration with Longjourney. The joint effort has resulted in a limited-edition collection of backpacks, messengers, bum bags and neck-strap bags made of fabrics recycled from military surplus and sportswear. grc Joseph, 27 rue de Passy, 75016 Paris, +33 (0)1 4524 2432, joseph-fashion.com Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTOS: (TOP) CYRILLE GEORGE JERUSALMI; (BOTTOM) FILIPPO FIOR

ROAD TO FREEDOM

S H O P | 33

A MAN’S WORLD For spring/summer 2017 Kiton was inspired by art, particularly the Impressionist movement, resulting in a highly sophisticated collection for men. Suits take centre stage, made of high quality materials that mainly originate from the brand’s wool mill in Biella, Italy. Tailoring is offset with sportswear pieces designed as daywear that cleverly incorporate technical fabrics. The collection is rounded off by a range of accessories, featuring footwear, bags and leather goods. By focusing closely on the three strands of tailoring, sportswear and accessories, Kiton proves it knows how to cater to the modern man and his lifestyle. grc Kiton, 29 rue Marbeuf, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5836 4410, kiton.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

PAUL IN PARIS

PHOTO: FRANCKBELONCLE.COM

Paul Smith has opened his sixth boutique in Paris, on the prestigious rue Saint-Honoré. One of the store’s two rooms is dedicated to tailoring. The building dates from the Haussmann era and classic details such as flooring in Versailles panelling and timber parquet have been preserved, without overshadowing the brand’s character. grc Paul Smith, 223 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4268 2710, paulsmith.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

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TIFFANY TWICE Travellers passing through Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport can now shop Tiffany’s exquisite pieces at two new boutiques from the world-famous jeweller. Located at gates K and M of Terminal 2E, the two retail stores are a chance to discover the brand’s wide range of beautiful designs. The Tiffany T collection includes pieces such as this Tiffany T Two ring in 18-carat gold with pavé diamonds (€8,550). Founded in New York in 1837, Tiffany is one of the handful of elite luxury brands that can genuinely be described as iconic. A welcome addition to Paris-CDG, at Tiffany you can always find the perfect gift. grc

Tiffany & Co, Terminal 2E, Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport, tiffany.com

Maison F, founded in 2011, produces luxury ties meticulously made by hand in the brand’s Paris atelier. Until recently, the house concentrated on articles for men, but has now introduced its first collection for women. The range encompasses ties, such as the pictured Croatian style (€90), bow ties, brooches and sautoirs (a combination of cravat and necklace) made from high-quality fabrics including satins, twills, jacquards and basketweave silks. While founder FrançoisRegis Laporte cites influences from the 1600s, his brand sits perfectly in the 21st century. Maison F’s latest collection playfully reinvents accessories from the men’s wardrobe to create supremely elegant versions for women. grc Maison F, 42 rue de Verneuil, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)9 5298 0465, maisonf.com Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTO: (TOP) T|TIFFANY & CO. STUDIO

TAKE A BOW

MADE IN boggi.com

Paris | 38 Boulevard Des Italiens | Tel. +33 1 402.299.82 | 112 Boulevard Saint Germain | Tel. +33 1 463.306.68

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ENDURANCE TEST In 2016 Philipp Plein launched the Plein Sport brand, available at Plein Sport stores in London, Amsterdam and Paris. The 102-square-metre Paris space on prestigious rue de Rivoli, designed by Italian architectural firm CLS, is dedicated to everything related to fitness and training, paired with a strong luxury element, in line with the new brand’s identity. Punch bags, barbells and weight benches punctuate the space. Plein Sport’s tiger emblem represents the brand’s fighting spirit. grc Plein Sport, 250 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 4050, pleinsport.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

CRYSTAL CLEAR Luxury glassware manufacturer Lalique and Zaha Hadid first collaborated in 2014; the Fontana bowl designed by the late architect, the first woman to win the Pritzker Architecture Prize, is the most recent addition to the collection. Drawing on the expertise of both glassmaker and architect, the bowl (€9,500) is beautifully crafted in Lalique crystal; its curves and ripples convey the motion of water, echoing the lines of many of Hadid’s buildings. Available in plain crystal, black and midnight blue, its satin finish makes it both contemporary and timeless. rre Lalique, 11 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5305 1281, lalique.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

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S H O P | 37

CELESTIAL SCENT In February 2017, Maison Francis Kurkdjian launched a new fragrance, Aqua Celestia, which joins the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s existing Aqua Universalis and Aqua Vitae. The scent combines blackcurrant, lime, cool mint and mimosa with an underlying hint of musk. Aqua Celestia is available as an eau de toilette, a body cream and a shower gel. grc Maison Francis Kurkdjian, 7 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4271 7676, franciskurkdjian.com

HIGH SOCIETY Italian handbag maker Colombo Via della Spiga has opened its first boutique in France, in the shopping gallery at the Ritz Paris hotel. The bright oak and beige marble of the gallery is combined with an interior decor featuring white marble, mirrors and curtains in olive green; a sophisticated setting for the Italian bags which echoes the Colombo Via della Spiga flagship in Milan. The brand, which was registered as Colombo Via della Spiga in 1955, creates luxury leather goods from the finest materials. grc Colombo Via della Spiga, Ritz Paris, 15 place VendĂ´me, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4508 4001, colomboviadellaspiga.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

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PHOTO: Â© GORUNWAY.COM/MATTEO GORUNWAY.COM VOLTA

COUTURE FOR THE FUTURE Once the preserve of historic Parisian maisons, the world of haute couture is evolving. Theresa Harold discovers the names shaking up this traditional arena

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raditional French fashion houses and opulent ball gowns come to mind when couture is mentioned. Yet on the Parisian fashion scene today, a wave of young designers is breathing new life into Haute Couture Fashion Week, proving that coutureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exquisite standards need not be restricted to any particular aesthetic. Bouchra Jarrar made headlines this season as the newly appointed artistic director of womenswear at Lanvin, but the Cannes-born designer is best known for her eponymous couture house, founded in 2010. Jarrar began by presenting her collections in Paris as a guest of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the governing body of the French fashion

Left: Maison Margiela haute couture spring/summer 2017

industry and gatekeeper of the official and legally protected term ‘haute couture’. She finally earned her full haute couturier status in December 2013, an achievement which few designers ever reach. The Chambre Syndicale bestows the honour only on the most skilled and creative couturiers, who must fulfil a number of requirements. A designer must create made-tomeasure clothing for private clients, requiring one or more bespoke fittings. They must also have an atelier in Paris that employs no fewer than 20 full-time staff. The maison must present two collections a year, of at least 50 original designs, comprising both daytime and evening garments. ‘I’ve been exploring the paths of sensuality and intimacy, building clothes around the body, unveiling and veiling the silhouette,’ says Jarrar

of her Lanvin ready-to-wear debut, in which she has carried over signatures and tropes from her couture line. ‘I’m searching for essential and harmony. I love to dress women, to reveal them to themselves, to sublime them, to cross borders between femininity and masculinity.’ Christian Dior has a storied haute couture history. The couture concept has been interpreted in various ways by successive creative directors, from the drama of John Galliano’s creations to the modernist looks of Raf Simons, whose first haute couture collection featured in the film Dior and I. Simons left the house in late 2015, and the spring 2017 collection was the couture debut of newly appointed creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, formerly of Valentino. Nippedin waists, voluminous skirts and structured jackets made the collection distinctly Dior,

Above (from left): Lanvin spring/summer 2017; Christian Dior spring 2017 couture; Viktor & Rolf spring 2017 couture; Balenciaga spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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S H O P | 41

while Chiuri brought her own signature to the collection via the overt femininity of layered tulle and intricate embroidery. This spring/summer couture season, the most exciting brands challenged conceptions of the couture aesthetic. At Viktor & Rolf, pieces from shift dresses to blouses to ball gowns were patched together from myriad colours, textures and shapes. At Maison Margiela, artistically rendered women’s faces adorned sheer layers over coats, dresses and more, appearing to float across the garments. Another designer adept at crossing borders is Demna Gvasalia, who first found fame as the face of design collective Vetements. The Georgian creative made the news when he was appointed artistic director of historic fashion house Balenciaga in 2015, crossing the border between the cult and the established.

At Balenciaga, Gvasalia has won acclaim for his ability to balance his characteristic streetwear-inspired aesthetic with a genuine reverence for the heritage of the house. Vetements has captured the imaginations of fashion lovers everywhere with its ability to combine high and popular culture. It therefore came as no surprise that the label’s first collection at Couture Fashion Week, where it showed as a guest of the Chambre Syndical, reinterpreted wardrobe classics through a distinctly Vetements lens. For spring/summer 2017, the Vetements team chose to present a full collection of garments made in collaboration with other brands, from suits by Brioni to denim by Levi’s, tracksuits by Juicy Couture to outerwear by Mackintosh. ‘We thought we’d go straight to the brands who make all these things best, and ask to do something in our way with

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PHOTOS (FROM TOP): © GORUNWAY.COM; © THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART

each one,’ said Gvasalia at the time. The collection may have been unexpected, but somehow it made sense. Couture has always been about the best of the best in terms of design and manufacture, and that is exactly what Gvasalia was highlighting. While designers such as Jarrar and Gvasalia experiment with ideas of how couture can look, other houses are upending notions of how it can be created. For brands such as Louis Vuitton, the challenge of couture lies not in establishing a name, but in remaining innovative. To that end, designers at such historic houses are boldly embracing the use of technology. At the recent Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, examples from the Louis Vuitton archive were on display. One tulip-bottomed dress by the maison’s current creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière, featured a combination of hand-appliquéd overlay and laser-cut metallic strips. In anyone else’s hands this might have been overkill, but Ghesquière’s mastery made the effect just as glorious as any Chantilly lace. While modern visionaries such as these continue to push the boundaries of fashion’s potential, haute couture will remain as fresh and exciting as ever

Above (from top): Vetements spring/summer 2017; Louis Vuitton archive pieces on show at the Metropolitan Museum in New York

PHOTOS: Â© GORUNWAY.COM

BLAST FROM THE PAST

Designers embraced 1980s references galore this season, bringing the exaggerated glamour of the decade into the modern arena. Harriet Quick reports on a welcome new sense of boldness and exuberance

hile the past few seasons have seen an almost relentless homage paid to the 1970s, the decade that followed it proved far more influential for spring/ summer 2017. The era that bought us power shoulders, extreme miniskirts, lashings of lamĂŠ, rhinestones, leopard print, studs and more was the fuel to a retro fire that was set alight during Paris Fashion Week. The City

of Light was a hotbed of glamour in the late 1980s, with nightclubs such as Castel and Les Bains Douches heaving with supermodels, photographers and celebrities, living out a hedonistic lifestyle on the dancefloor. These socialites flitted between the fashion capitals of Paris, New York and London, flew the supersonic Concorde and could be found dressed head to toe in Alaïa. Supermodel Jerry Hall remembers arriving in Paris from her native Texas – a rookie wearing a fringed suede skirt and cowboy boots. She started shooting with world famous photographer Helmut Newton and was frequently sketched by wonder boy illustrator Antonio Lopez. Her career and style took flight. Hall was among a coterie of models, including Iman and the vivacious Pat Cleveland (her daughter Anna is a new star on the runway), who seized the moment with their wild dancing, night-owl habits and glossy beauty. Film-maker Jean-Paul Goude, singer Grace Jones and designer Paloma Picasso were 78 87

also part of this super-talented pack. That sense of exuberance and unadulterated sexiness is much needed again in these serious times, and is proving alluring to a new generation of creatives. Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga served up a thrilling collection Previous page (from left): Chanel; Balenciaga; Saint Laurent; Balenciaga, all spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS (FRO M TOP): SIPA PRESS/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK; © GORUNWAY.COM

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THE EXCEPTION NOW HAS AN ADDRESS: 68 CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES - PARIS 8 e

THE L ARGEST SINGLE-BRAND PERFUMES AND COSMETICS BOUTIQUE IN THE WORLD

WWW.GUERLAIN.COM

PERFUMES - COSMETICS - SPA - RES TAURANT

featuring power-shouldered suit jackets that are ingeniously cut to look as if they are still on a gigantic hanger; floral-print spandex legging boots; and slippery silk jersey ruched-waist blouses that would not have looked out of place on the set of iconic TV drama Dallas. For Anthony Vaccarello’s debut at Saint Laurent, the house’s rich archives and the striking figure of Paloma Picasso (known for her love of gold, red and black) served up ample inspiration for his sharp-shouldered Le

Smoking suits, pouffe-shouldered leopardprint blouses and sculpted leather bodices with sweetheart necklines. The 80s trend is poised to polarise opinion – you either love it, or you hate it. This was also the era that gave birth to hip hop and cult streetwear embellished with plenty of bling. Crystal-embossed denim, medallions, hot pants, kitten heels and hoodies were all glimpsed on the catwalks. Chanel embraced the moment with tweed baseball caps worn

Previous page (from top): supermodel Jerry Hall, a face of the 1980s; Balenciaga spring/summer 2017

Above (from left): Balenciaga; Saint Laurent, both spring/ summer 2017

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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UN CERTO MONDO CAMMINA ROSSETTI. FRATELLIROSSETTI.COM

with bomber jackets and skirts. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière – who grew up in the north west of France during the decade – delivered unapologetically glamorous slinky jersey dresses with panels of chain mail. He also produced the accessory that was the talk of fashion week – a Louis Vuitton iPhone cover. A new generation is thrilled by the bold shoulders, exuberant prints, costume jewellery and pulsing colours – bright red, bubblegum pink, tangerine, electric blue. There is also perhaps a hint of nostalgia for the decade that embraced fashion as entertainment through MTV and the time

when customers queued for Sony’s Walkman and the very first mobile phones. Analog suddenly appears charming and there’s a new collectible cool in these early versions. Today, influence is measured in terms of social media followers and the like, and we chart trends and fashion moments at a speed inconceivable to those who sported the original 1980s styles. It’s exciting to see something of the past embraced by the technologically savvy society of today, and to chart the new 1980s revivals as they happen. Will we move towards a dramatic streak of blusher? Huge hair? The catwalks are only the beginning

Above (clockwise from left): Chanel; Louis Vuitton, both spring/summer 2017; Nicolas Ghesquière, creative director of Louis Vuitton

PHOTOS: (LEFT AND TOP RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM; (BOTTOM RIGHT) © SONY

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TOP FIVE

The area between the avenue des Champs-Élysées, avenue Montaigne and avenue George V, known as the Triangle d’Or (Golden Triangle in English) is one of the most luxurious shopping destinations in Paris. Home to top French and international brands, it is a must-visit destination for stylish gentlemen exploring the city. From timepieces to leather goods, clothing to accessories, Hannah Lewis rounds up five unmissable boutiques in this prestigious neighbourhood. 888 888 888

Above: English caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

MENSWEAR DESTINATIONS IN THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE

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PHOTO: (RIGHT) LOUIS VUITTON MALLETIER / STEPHANE MURATET

1. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

2. LOUIS VUITTON

Famous for its suiting, Italian label Ermenegildo Zegna is one of the world’s leading menswear brands. Founded over a century ago in 1910, the label has consistently remained at the forefront of great tailoring, respecting and honing time-honoured techniques without being afraid to embrace the newest technology. Book an appointment at the boutique on avenue George V to experience the su misura service, where specialists in made-tomeasure tailoring will guide you through the process of creating your very own bespoke suit. From choosing the perfect fabrics to deciding on the little details that make the suit distinctly yours, you couldn’t be in safer hands. Ermenegildo Zegna, 40 avenue George V, 75116 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 8790, zegna.com 78 86

Superbrands don’t come much bigger than Louis Vuitton, and at the avenue Montaigne branch of this historic French label gentlemen can explore an impressive selection of the brand’s output. Ready to wear, watches, eyewear, footwear, leather goods, accessories and bags can all be found in this superbly stylish boutique. While Louis Vuitton is one of the longest-established and most famous of Paris’s catwalk brands, its collections are strikingly modern, and fashion-conscious men should be sure to pick up a piece (or several) from menswear artistic director Kim Jones’s latest collection. Jones’s updated monogrammed shirts peppered with animal motifs are a definite hot-ticket item this season. Louis Vuitton, 22 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 4700, louisvuitton.com Above (from left): Ermenegildo Zegna spring/summer 2017; the Louis Vuitton menswear boutique on avenue Montaigne

54 | F E AT U R E S

3 John Lobb takes its name from a British heritage shoemaker but today the company is largely based in Paris. With over 150 years of experience

4. KENZO As sartorial codes for menswear become more relaxed, even the most polished of men can afford to add a few great casual pieces to their wardrobes, and Kenzo is the perfect place to pick up something informal and fashion-forward. The brand’s colourful motifs and slogans,

in bespoke shoes and boots, this is an essential destination for men seeking excellent footwear. At the store on rue François 1er, the By Request

splashed across everything from socks to sweatshirts, have become a trademark, and add an unexpected edge to a tailored outfit. The range of high-fashion sneakers is also not to be ignored. Kenzo, 51 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 3349, kenzo.com

4 Above (from top): John Lobb Isle suede deck shoe; Kenzo spring/summer 2017

service allows clients to browse from hundreds of options in model, material, colour, fit and finishing touches to create a highly personal shoe. Opt for the fully bespoke service and John Lobb’s seasoned experts will craft a shoe to perfectly fit your individual measurements, tastes and needs. Requiring around 50 hours of work by highly qualified craftsmen, they offer the last word in luxury. John Lobb, 51 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 0255, johnlobb.com

5. LORO PIANA Originating from Trivero, a district in northern Italy renowned for its production of luxury textiles, Loro Piana began as a small wool merchant. Today the company is one of the world’s leading specialists in wool and cashmere, and is noted for its research into rare and luxurious fabrics. One recent discovery is a fibre made from the lotus flower. From the rarest to the most familiar fabrics, Loro Piana selects only the best, and its men’s collection is known for taking style staples – from cotton shirts to cashmere socks – to the next level of luxury. Enquire at the avenue Montaigne store about the made-to-measure service. Loro Piana, 38 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5664 0600, loropiana.com

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): COURTESY OF JOHN LOBB; © GORUNWAY.COM

3. JOHN LOBB

18 octobre 2016, Paris Adrien Sahores photographié par Karim Sadli Online shop : www.defursac.fr

112, rue de Richelieu - Paris IIè 34, avenue de l’Opéra - Paris IIè 146, boulevard Saint Germain - Paris VIè

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ON THE RISE

In the past century bread consumption has dropped dramatically across the world. France, a country described by French bread promotion group Observatoire du Pain as a ‘civilisation du pain’ (pain is the French word for bread), now sees average consumption that equates to just half a baguette a day, compared to three per day in 1900. Nevertheless, the French capital remains an exciting destination for those seeking top-quality baked goods, which have become a symbol of French culture: an affectionate common caricature of a Frenchman sees him with a baguette tucked under his arm. Although cheap industrial bread production has spread throughout the western world, in France only 35% of bread is made in the industrial sector, according to a 2010 European Commission study (in other EU countries this rises to as much as 80%). This leaves 65% of the French market to craft bakers. With over 1,200 independent bakeries in Paris, according to the city’s federation of boulangeries, making a choice can be daunting. Visit one of our recommendations for some memorable options where the savoir-faire of the artisan baker shines out. globalblue.com

PHOTO: MÓNICA GOYA PHOTO: XXXX PHOTO:R.XXXX

Paris is home to some of the top bakeries in the world. Mónica R Goya recommends four of the best

D U PA I N E T D E S I D É E S It is easy to picture Marie Antoinette, were she alive today, sending out to Du Pain et des Idées for her bread. The building in which the boulangerie is located dates from 1870 and the interior, featuring original painted glass ceilings, is as special as the bread produced here. Du Pain et des Idées opened in 2002, after owner and chef baker Christophe Vasseur quit the fashion industry and changed his career completely. Vasseur’s most popular bread is the pain des amis (friends’ bread). Made with wheat flour, its nutty aroma is instantly recognisable and its crunchy crust and consistent crumb bring together locals and visitors. Many cross the city for this bread – and it is absolutely worth it. Du Pain et des Idées, 34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 4240 4452, dupainetdesidees.com

NAM E O F PL ACE English

русский язык Russian

PHOTO: XXXX PHOTO: XXXX

中国的 Chinese Name Of Place, Address and Telephone website

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LIBERTÉ

PHOTOS: MÓNICA R. GOYA

Liberté, a relative newcomer to the Parisian bread scene, opened in 2013 in the hip Canal Saint-Martin area. The industrial-looking interior is unusual for a Parisian boulangeriepâtisserie, where traditional décor is more frequently seen. Co-founder Benoît Castel worked as chef-pâtissier for Michelin-starred chef Hélène Darroze and at La Grand Épicerie de Paris at Le Bon Marché before embarking on his own adventure. At Liberté, customers can watch the bakers at work while they wait to purchase loaves and patîsserie. The bakery’s signature bread is pain du coin, a dense loaf made from a mix of rye and white flours with honey. Be warned, it is difficult to leave Liberté without indulging in one of the colourful, elegantly displayed sweet treats. Liberté, 39 rue des Vinaigriers, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 4205 5176, libertepatisserieboulangerie.com

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S H O P | 59

POÎLANE

Poîlane is one of the best-known bakeries in Paris, if not in the whole of France. Founded in Saint-Germain-des-Prés in 1932 by young baker Pierre Poîlane, Poîlane’s most recognisable breads are the loaves that still carry his signature P, now a registered trademark. These round, crusty loaves are made from just four ingredients: sourdough, stoneground wheat flour, water and sea salt from Guérande, baked in a wood-fired oven. There are three Poîlane bakeries in Paris, two in London and one in Belgium; the original boulangerie Saint-Germaindes-Prés is still located at the same address where the Poîlane company was founded over 80 years ago. Poîlane, 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 4259, poilane.com

MAISON LANDEMAINE Founded by Rodolphe Landemaine, who honed his skills with some of the best bakers in the world, including Pierre Hermé and Paul Bocuse, the first Maison Landemaine boulangerie was established in Paris in 2004. Today, together with his wife and fellow baker Yoshimi Ishikawa, Landemaine has 11 branches across the city, plus a bakery

and a training centre in Tokyo. The highquality baked goods are based around the core principle of applying traditional French savoir-faire to high-quality seasonal produce. All breads are made in-house using the team’s own recipes, which use slow and natural fermentation. Landemain’s signature bread is a delicious, fragrant sourdough. Maison Landemaine, 26 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4016 0342, maisonlandemaine.com

S H O P | 61

GUIDE

PHOTO: MÓNICA R. GOYA

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best places to sample the macaron to an effortlessly chic French womenswear store. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.

Above: the Louvre museum overlooks the River Seine

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: JOE DESOUSA CC0 1.0; CARLOS ZGZ

‘Paris is one of the most visually stunning European capitals. The city’s architecture, monuments, artworks, restaurants and boutiques are quintessentially French and sum up the spirit of the nation’ – Sally McIlhone, SHOP’s deputy editor

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Follow our teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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Céline A piece from the celebrated Parisian fashion house will make an ideal addition to your wardrobe this season. Céline, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4070 0703, celine.com

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Chaumet Chaumet’s new weddingfocused boutique is the perfect place to visit with your partner-to-be. Chaumet, 12 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4477 2424, chaumet.com FEATURED ON PAGE 30

ARTS ET MÉTIERS

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Saint Laurent Step back in time with 80s-inspired looks from Anthony Vaccarello’s debut for the brand. Saint Laurent, 38 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 7459, ysl.com FEATURED ON PAGE 44

CITÉ SAINT-PAUL

SAINT-GERMAIN -DES-PRÉS SAINT-MICHEL NOTRE DAME DE PARIS

MABILLON SAINTSULPICE

ODEON CLUNY - LA SORBONNE

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MAUBERT MUTUALITÉ

PONT MARIE

Poîlane This boulangerie is a must-visit for some of the freshest and tastiest bread to be found in the city. Poîlane, 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 4259, poilane.com FEATURED ON PAGE 59

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3 P.7

● GUISEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● PRADA ● PRADA MEN ● LORO PIANA ● ESCADA

● GIORGIO ARMANI ● DAVIDOR

Restaurant

Metro

Featured In This Issue

L SA

1E R

68 | G U I D E

ANNE FONTAINE Over the past two decades Anne Fontaine has developed a name for unique and highly original interpretations of the classic white shirt. Late last year the brand celebrated the launch of its European website, annefontaine.fr, as well as the release of its Casual Chic line. Offering comfortable separates inspired by the athleisure trend, the Casual Chic range is designed with the modern woman in mind. Many items also include organic cotton, so eco-conscious style fans are also catered for. Anne Fontaine, 396 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 1850, annefontaine.com, annefontaine.fr

12 HOURS IN PARIS

12pm Continue the indulgent theme in architecturally stunning place Vendôme. Visit the boutiques of jewellery giants such as Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari. Watch lovers can admire horological creations at Piaget and Patek Philippe. 4pm Explore the Fauchon store in place de la Madeleine, famous for its stunning chocolates, teas and other gourmet products. This is the perfect place to stock up on gifts for friends and family.

Above (bottom): elegant place Vendôme lit up at night

9pm For drinks in bohemian surroundings, visit Bluebird in the 11th arrondissement. Named after the Charles Bukowski poem of the same name, the bar offers a menu of cocktails with a focus on gin – the negroni is a house speciality. Sip a perfectly blended drink and take in the unique atmosphere.

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) SÉBASTIEN DERVIEUX

10am For an indulgent start to your day, visit Les Enfants Perdus for the three-course brunch. Comprising pastries, an endless supply of hot drinks, juice, eggs en cocotte, slices of smoked duck breast and goat cheese salad, this is a breakfast to end all breakfasts.

NO RÉ

● KRIS VAN ASSCH E

Featured In This Issue

AV .D

L’ O

PÉ

Place André Malraux

● FREY WILLE

E L IE U

FREY WILLE ● EB MEYROWITZ ● H STERN ● ● JOVOY P.90 LORENA ● ANTIONIAZZI ● CAROLINA HERRERA LUC IEN P EL LAT - FI NE T ● CH U RCH ● GER AR D DA REL ● RIC HA RD GR A ND ●

A NN ICK GO UTA L● P IER RE M AR C OL I NI ● STE L LA MC CA RT NE Y ● E GOYA RD ● M I LLE R ● GI U SEP P E Z A N OT TI DES IGN ●

O ● DODO ● SA KA RE ● BA LDI NIN I ● MOYN AT ● P H IL IPP E FER RA ND

● EX W IH IL

● AV ED IS ● E GOYA RD

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E R IC H

IG LI O N E

● ZIMMERL I ● DAVID MORRIS ● OMEGA ● ALEXIS ● DE GRISOGO NO ● CHOPARD

● MIKI HOUSE

● COACH ● ALEXAND ER MCQUEEN ● BRIONI ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● MARC JACOBS

● ZARA

● KILI AN ● TOM FORD JIMMY ● CHOO

Place Vendôme

RUE D

HELLE

METAL FLAQUE ●

R U E D E L’ E C

RU E SA IN T- HO

● AESOP

RU E SA IN T- H ON

LINE A PIU ● CHLO É ● PORT S 1961 ● DSQU ARED 2 ● TUM I ● J M WES TON ● YVES SALO MON ● HOTE L COST ES ● FR AT EL LI RO SS ET TI ● RU E D E C A ST

APERLAЇ ● FREDERIC MALLE ●

CAREL ●

WOL FORD ● OCTO PUSS Y ● CADO LLE ●

MES SIKA ● MOR ABIT O ●

FAURÉ ● LE PAGE

● CASTANER SHIATZY ● CHEN ● VEBER

ROBE RTO CAVA LLI ●

JOHN ● GALLIANO EL HAN ●C HEL MIC LIA ON AIS RDE ● M ● CO

TARA JARMON ANNE FONTAINE GUERLAIN HERVE CHAPELIE R

● CHANEL

'A R

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● NODUS ● CECILE ET JEANNE ● TOUS

P.36

RU E

CAMILLE FOURNET ● RU E C A M B O N

RUE SAIN T- HON O R É

NOCIBE ● CHEMINS BLANCS ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●

VALERIE ● DANENBERG

DE S DE S PY R A MI

PLEIN SPORT ●

AUDIO ● COTÉLAC ● TECHNICA

MAJE ● FENDI ●

● ● ● ●

● LONGCHA MP

HEURGON ● OSCAR CARVALLO ●

ROGER VIVIER ● LANCÔME ● VALENTINO ●

LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROSSI ● CARITA ● LA BAGAGER IE ● BERLU TI ● MONCL ER ● PANERAI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SARTORE ● P.33 PAUL SMITH ● MIU MIU ● AUDEMAR S PIGUET ●

TOD’S ● CARTIER ●

CHANEL ●

IRE

●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JITROIS SAINT LAURENT YVES SALOMON ARAMIS BLOCH JUN ASHIDA SAINT LAURENT BOUCHERON

● LANVI N F EMME ● LA PERLA ERMAN NO ● SCERV INO ● BOTTE GA VENETA ● LORO PIANA ● PRADA ● PINKO ● GUCCI

● HERMÈS

● GIVENCHY

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

RU E DU FAU B O U RG SA INT- H ON ORÉ GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● RENE CAOVILLA ●

● HUMBERT & POYET ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● DAMIR DOMA ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA ● LEONARD ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O

NORÉ

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● PETIT BATEAU ●

IN T-H O

ELENA MIRO ● ROGER & GALLET ● FLORSHEIM ● THE KOOPLES ● HILIO ● OLDEN ●

NO RÉ SANDRO ●

CHRONOPASSION ● DJULA ●

● TORY BURCH ● MAX MARA

RIN

EM ● ANUE M AB E R G L ● F UD ● F R IZ O N ● A B IA ● M A R IAN A F IL ● ROSA N N E IP PI TA RID S A R C L A R AA ● C T IN E R IE R I ● HOC & ● M A R INO L AT ● ML O R I B A R IN ALD ● P A R IN L U I IE R A E N R E C FA N A ● SO T H E B R D IN T Y ’S ● M IL A DY FR ET TE ● BU ● RMA K ID S PA CE ● ● CHO PA R D ● SO N IA R A LB ER Y K IE L ● PO TA FE R IR AY R ET TI ● ● PA U A P O S TR L & SH OPHE ● ARK ● CHR IS T IA N LOU BOUT IN ● ETR O ● PO MELL AT O ● BAR BAR A BUI ● BALLY

RG SA

Global Blue Retailer BOU

● STONE ISLAND ● SATELLITE ● SEQUOIA ● PARABOOT

JEAN PATOU ● R U E S A I N T- F L O R E N T I N

● BRACCIAL INI

WEMPE LANCASTE R LEETHA GROSSEN S

FA U

● DIOR MONTRES ● SAINT-HONORÉ ● JO MALONE ● MAC ● BONPOINT ● MONIES ● STELLA LUNA

VILEBREQUIN ● FURLA ● MICHAEL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● MULBERRY ● VALENTINO ●

● ● ● ●

RUE ROYALE

FRAGONARD ● PEUTEREY ● LA PRAIRIE ●

RU E SA IN T- HO

● EXEMPLAIRE ● AKILLIS ● DIPTYQUE

● BURMA ● STUART WEITZMAN COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS

RUE

COLETTE ● CHANTAL THOMAS ● COSMOPARIS ● MAJESTIC FILATURES ● PENHALIGON’S ●

MISSONI ● MANOUSH ● KIEHL'S ● BA&SH ● THEORY ●

PAULE KA ● PAUL SMITH ●

S H O P | 69

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

Rue Saint-Honoré West

Rue Saint-Honoré East

DELVAU X ●

BRUCE FIELD ●

70 | G U I D E

Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale GUERLAIN ●

E VA OUL

SMA H AUS

DEVERNOIS ●

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RU E D ’AN JO U

IS CO T N AN NE TO FR PI ES ● W JM ●

●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

RU E ROYA L E

Global Blue Retailer

AUDEMARS PIGUET ● HEURGON ● BONPOINT ● ST LOUIS ● MOUKARZEL ● BERNARDAUD ● P.36 LALIQUE ● CHRISTOFLE ● J L COQUET ● MAXIM'S ●

● KENZO

MAISON ● DE FAMILLE

GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI ● VERTU

ESCALES ● LE VILLAGE ROYALE ● ● NAPAPIJRI CHANEL ● APC ● ● EMLING

VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●

●

LOUIS PION ● C ODIOT ● E R GUY DEGRENNE ● PATRICK R U T I● BELL & ROSS ● ROGER ● LOUIS EDOUARD LEJEUNE ● DIOR ●

MAILLE ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● RALPH LAUREN ●

BCBGMAXAZRIA ●

SAMSUNG ●

RUE DU FAUBOU RG SAIN T- H ON OR É

R T IN

Place de la Madeleine

RD ZWILLING ● VA LE U BO ●

● MARELLA

●

MADELE INE

●

ZARA HOME ● LIPAULT ● LA MAISON DU E CHOCOLAT ● IN

● FAUCHON ● SEPHORA ● ALAIN FIGARET

●

NICOLAS ●

HEDIARD ● MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ● ● BURBERRY MANFIELD ● CAVIAR KASPIA ● OLIVER B O ● GRANT LE JARDIN U L D’ULYSSE ● E VA ● BRUCE FIELD

CROCK ETT AND JONES ●

RUE DU FA U B OU RG SA I N T-HONORÉ

● YVES THURIES ● LE CREUSET ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E WA R A U C ●E●S ●F

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BRITISH DESTOCK ● OBREY ● PETIT BATEAU ● COS ● SAINT JAMES ● KUJTEN ●

● LANVIN

DE M A

JACADI ● IKKS ● CATIMINI ●

● ANNE FONTAINE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● BRIC’S

GANTS HELION CHAVANEL CAROLL JB GUANTI

O D OT

OLIVER GRANT ●

● KI6 HERMÈS ●

● ● ● ●

RUE T RO N CH E T

JOHN LOBB ●

AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●

● LA MAROQUIN ERIE PARISIENNE ● EKYOG ● NATALYS ● LE DESSOUS CHIC ● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX ● WINONA ● EMA PIAZI

RUE G

SY D'ANGL RUE BOIS

LAGUIOLE ● MAJE ●

CHARLES COTONAY ● EMLING ●

● YVES DELORME ● THE KOOPLES ● GUY DEGRENNE ● AGATHA

AU B

● CAFE COTON

RUE T RO NCHET

● EQ:IQ

JEAN VIER ●

ALESSI ●

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● MASSIMO DUTTI

MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● COLOMBINE ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ●

● SIA NINE WEST ●

● GAP

UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●

FAURÉ LE PAGE ● YUMIKO KATSURA ●

● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS HERVÉ CHAPELIER ● LES ATELIERS DE LA MAILE ●

Ladurée ● WEMPE

TOM FORD ●

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ ● POIRAY ● IRO ● ● ● ● ●

ROYAL QUARTZ EMILE LÉON O J PERRIN HAVILAND / DAUM ARTHUS BERTRAND

Metro

Café

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 71

NE CI PU CA S

MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● ALANGE & SÖHNE VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● POIRAY ●

ALFRED DUNHILL ●

MAUBOUSSIN ●

GARLAND ●

EV AR

CARTIER ●

RU E VOLNEY

● BOULANGER ● AIGLE ● TOMMY HILFIGER

RU E DE L A PAIX

MELLERIO ● PIAGET ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● BUCCELLATI ● IWC ● BULGARI ● ● ● R IE ON RT IT T CA VU S UI

ELSA SCHIAPARELLI ●

Ritz Paris

TOP 3... MACARONS Ladurée Sampling Ladurée’s famous macarons is a must on a visit to Paris, whether you prefer classic vanilla, intriguing liquorice or a seasonal special. Ladurée, various locations, laduree.com

PHOTO: © VISITBRITAIN/JULIET WHITE

Pierre Hermé Pierre Hermé is a master of the macaron. Perfecting the combination of crisp shell with soft centre is no mean feat, but the finesse of his treats makes it look easy. The Infiniment Chocolat Paineras flavour is a favourite. Pierre Hermé, various locations, pierreherme.com Café Pouchkine Café Pouchkine’s pistachio-strawberry dual-flavoured macarons are delicious, as is its aromatic Earl Grey tea variety. Café Pouchkine, various locations, cafe-pouchkine.fr

Global Blue Refund Office

Hotel

GRAFF ●

● MARVELLA ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● LALIQUE ● CHRISTOF LE ● BAUME ET MERCIER ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● LERY ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. GLASHÜTT E ● ORIGINAL ● DAUM ● TECLA VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN

DA RUE

N IE L

CHOPARD ●

RUE SAIN T-H O NO R É

SANO

● CHANEL ● PIAGET ● SWATCH ● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT PATEK ● PHILIPPE

●

FRED ●

LE CA

PE AR ● CHARVET & ● M26 VENDOME EF E L N ● BOUCHERO NC VA ● ● BLANCPAIN

Place Vendôme

ROLEX ● JAEGER LECOULTRE ●

OMEGA ●

RUE DE LA PAIX

COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS MAJE ● COTONNIERS ● ERIC BOMPARD ● RUE DAUNOU PE GAP ● ● OMEGA RI G ● BALLY Z A OT ● RA ● ● HARMONT & BLAINE BA GA B ● LACOSTE P Y ● HACKETT ● ● MANFIELD ● GANT

Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO

● BENETTON

EV AR

B ER

● NINE WEST ● EQ:IQ LA CA ● ERIC BOMPARD PA F É D Place Opéra CLAUDIE M O PIERLOT ● NA A IX ● E P C M O M ● BENETTON AI ● S ● BASLER M ON W BON O DIVINE ● PRINCESSE S A N T A B AT C B O R FRAGONARD ● ● TAM TA M TA M S B L A I Z H ● N G ON N A ● PHILIPPE H C FERRANDIS ● B U C A E U I T E ● CH R ● CALIDA ER ● T ER IE ● GOLFINO ● ER R ●

BURMA ● SWATCH ● L ANCEL ● GUESS ● DESIGUAL ● MATY ●

S C R IB

RUE AU

Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix

RUE

NESPRESSO ●

Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe

E BR

● MIKIMOTO ● DIOR

SELECTED STORES IN RITZ PARIS: Concept Store RUE SAIN T-HO Colombo ViaNOR É Della Spiga P.37

P.30

72 | G U I D E

Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle

ISABEL MARANT ●

MABILLON

SAINT-GERMAIN DES-PRÉS

GALERIE CATHERINE HOUARD ●

●

● SHADE ● BARBARA BUI ● VENTILO

BOBBI BROWN ●

IEU

● EQUIPAGGIAMENTI ● LONGINES ● LOSCO ● FREY WILLE ● CAFÉ COTON

RC HE

● MARISA

-M

● RENE DERHY ● PARALLELE ● MAC DOUGLAS ● MAJE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SANDRO THIBAULT ●

JET ● SET

OLIVER ● GRANT

● HERMÈS

BOUL EVAR D RASPAIL

BRAND BAZAR ● SÈVRES CLARINS ●

Global Blue Retailer

● ROBERT CLERGERIE

OMEGA ●

● SWATCH

PABLO ● GERARD DAREL ●

KIEHL'S ● KIPLING ● B’ROOM GRAFFITI ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● DURANCE ● SHANG XIA ●

AUBADE ● BALIBARIS ●

BERLUTI ● ALAIN FIGARET ● CYRILLUS ● LE TANNEUR ● BIBA ●

L'ARTISAN PARFUMEUR ●

SAINT-SULPICE

KERRY MARA ● SANDRO ● HESCHUNG ● SWILDENS ●

●

COMPTOIR DES ● COTONNIERS

● NILAÏ ● H E RT H E K AUBADE ● OO V PLE AGNÈS B ● Z● C H A E S A P ● DIG ELIER MARIONNA UD ● ● V O LT & ● VA E S O PA I R E ILE TWIN SET ● BRE SATELLITE ● QU IN

RU E DE SÈ V RE S

RTE

A PA

●

DSQUARED2 ●

COCCINELLE ● SUNDEK ● TOD’S ●

E GR

● LA BAGAGERIE 7 FOR ALL ● MANKIND ● NAPAPIJRI

●

ALEXANDRA SOJFER EDWARD GREEN SAVE THE QUEEN LOEWE GALERIE ISSEY MIYAKE

N E M RE E M O NC DE E É EH SA R R S R U N D TOI G L A A N T A C IN L R P OT ● VI ML CE R G M ● E AR E HA RL ● M I V C TA P I E I S G ● OL N AN IE AR ● LO R D P K A L AU M O C S R ● CO PE M ●

KUJTEN ● LEON & HARPER ● UGG ● REINE ROSALIE ● SUGAR ● MELLOW YELLOW ● MANOUSH ● APRIATI ● MARINA RINALDI ●

T T EN T IN R OO E S A L A UR A B LL LA BI IE ● PA M A RG ● IS MA E EX IN OR AL RT AT O ● ● MA LV M EN V ● S A AG A E● AR ● I C RR LIN K LE ● FE R C É A C OO N ● PE M CH IL S ● GO I● TA G DI M A M S I ●● NE I IN TA S RI A SE RO GE TE CA 5' S 4 IO AN IS ● CE ● RG SS P T U ● IN S E F R E - B A R E AR I S ● PR N U I R TT ● LA EA UT NE ME H ● DE J R A EN AM MIT ES KB SK LS IN L L E AU ● AR P S E CH LL UR YE MA IC VO I● ● ER F I F E N T● ED T FR KE AG U R A N ● WIC E I AT I S T I N ● ● OC HR UT ET ● C BO K U AR LO E M OR

● ● ● ● ●

● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

VIGNES ● APOSTROPH E ● RU PAULE KA ● ED ● ETRO ES KARL SA LAGERFELD ● IN TS ● IL GUFO PÈ VERSUS ●

GAP ● DESCAMPS ● SAKARÉ ●

●M A

● THE KOOPLES ● STEFAN GREEN ● THE SLOWEAR STORE ● MONCLER ● VANESSA SEWARD ● RALPH LAUREN RU E ● SONIA RYKIEL D

POIRAY ●

CITY PHARMA ● DIA PO MA M D ’A P NT IS I● BIL FR EE SIMO LIE L S M ANCE ● AR KE ● T● LES IK CO M O N K S ● LLE TR CT ES OR ●

EV AR

FAÇONNABLE ● GERARD DAREL ● ● CARON PARIS SHU UEMURA ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● ARTHUR & FOX MURAT ● ● JUST CAMPAGNE MAUBOUSSIN ● LIU JO ● ● BURBERRY

LE 22 LUNETIER ●

FABRICE ● EMPORIO ● ARMANI

● HEYRAUD ● LA POINTURE THEA SO SWEET ● ● JOE DAVEN ● KINZA PATRICK ROGER ● ● LIU JO CHRISTIAN ● ANNAH LACROIX ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● SILK & CASHMERE SAINT ● BEL AIR LAURENT ● ● PETIT BATEAU ● WHAT FOR ANNICK GOUTAL ●

R UE DU F OU

COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ● TARA JARMON ● ARTS ET CALZEDONIA ● BIJOUX ● TED LOUIS VUITTON ● BAKER ●

L P IC

CARVEN ● IKKS ● IRO ●

S A IN

R U● MARIONNAUD EB

RUE

COCCINELLE ●

ON FRANCIS KLEIN ● AP AR FABRICE ● T

● DIESEL

ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● CAREL ● DU PAREIL AU MÊME ● ●L HUGO BOSS ● ● D ODIN ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E

T SU

● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER

CHRISTOFLE BIJOUX ●

AU VIEUX CAMPEUR ● MAXIMILIEN ● DE FURSAC ● CAROLL ●

BIE

RU E DU FO UR

THIERRY LASRY ●

- BABYLONE

Department Store

Le Bon March é

Metro

S H O P | 73

Bellota-Bellota, a must-visit for foodies, showcases gourmet products from France and Spain. Stock up here on Iberian ham, olive oil, foie gras, taramasalata and blinis. Gift sets and fun-sized ‘craving boxes’ can also be purchased for friends and family. Fans of the truffle should seek out the truffled acacia honey or the black truffle pearls that will make a welcome addition to any well-stocked pantry. Bellota-Bellota, 11 rue Clément Marot, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 0313, bellota-bellota.com

RU E D U FO UR

ART

BELLOTA-BELLOTA

MA X ●W MAR H AT A● FOR ●M MA A X& MOI S T E L R C O ‘P O ● JA LO ● LA F C Q UA R ORE B IM B D FR S T● ● PR AYL ANÇ A IS ● M IN C E S S BER OL A ● E TA E N IC ● Z AK T M TA E● LES M P E T IT F IN E ● G A PA S HA ● RELL ● U LE IV A T D E L S AT E L IE S ● ● N ICO IR E A MA ● M E T H IN IL R S K IR A L E ● ● B AA J E S T IC G S P IE R N F RE E● IL AT ● IN & S H URE L AN HERMÉ ● S ● M D IE S CAS TER ● A P IN E L L I ● ● LE M MON A S C N O CO M ERE ● C P T O IR D ID E S OTO N N IE E S RS

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● CARTIER ● DEVERNOIS ● LANCEL ● ZARA ● X ● MONTBLANC I PR ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS O ● N L ● ESTEBAN O E M ● J M WESTON AN ● F RU Y ● E B ● ORESSENCE EB ST N X ● ON IG LE N ● ● LE CREUSET A PA S O O O E RT E R D ● D N NS O ● T O F L GA NZ S ● O T L E ID E ● L T K K ● NAPAPIJRI E E P LON A P CK ● ICE WATCH GA A G EL E NN HA M ● JB GUANTI KI TT MA O J O ● THE KOOPLES SPORT RY R X E S A A E I G ● BO CONCEPT D L N N N G BI ● L I O E ● WEEKEND MAX MARA L A IE D S S T I V R L T ● O O AR ER RÉ N M F RU I ● ● S AU F E L E O ● SA ES E SD D ● Z W ● E ● ● LEONIDAS M ● M RO ● JA I N RA S ● ET RES ● U VE ● BU É SU E SAINT-SULPICE PE PÉP AD Y ER ● ES D RA RU S T A M H A K O ED ● C A IN SH RB OT ES I ● FOSSIL A I SA RO JON M ● M B S A AI ● H J A M PA A R NT ● S A ● SP RI " ● YO Y A I P Y É OS ON ÈR ● S C A L TI F R R PA E S E ● M E D ● ● M NO E Y M IA R D2 ● BRANDY MELVILLE E ● S ● AN ON Y "E OM E B B A JA R E ● RI ● M Y● ST H SA R UA GE M E ● -B ● TA S Q N I FE TE N RO ● ● GEOX JO E L ● D E N I & A DA M E ● ET JO UE NE VA UL ● DH OR ● RA & GIN ● HENRY PHILIPPE TA R O T I Q TA I P D 8 L E T O PA D 7 U ● N OU ON B U LVA A M G PA LE SA B F ER BY S A AG ● ● ● R B N E VO N N B O N R BA T S R Z N ’ ● ● A E TE RI LE EN X FE ● DY ● IAN RS D F RD EL UR MA E ● EN D F U AU FO RU GR LI LA T ● AV ● M RT A XIA T OR DE IK N ● E I A N M BS I SP ● H UL NG 0 ● D RU T A 6 N J N I S 7 AC ● ● D HA 1 A A D M ER ● ● S AL SC EE ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● RI TO SE R CR IE AR HIS RO D● EL N E● L B EP T A L LI M L'A Y L DA H A AU C

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74 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP OPENING TIMES Monday-Sunday: 10am-7pm

LA VALLÉE VILLAGE Enjoy a unique luxury experience in an outlet shopping village just 35 minutes from the centre of Paris and five minutes from Disneyland Paris. La Vallée Village hosts more than 110 boutiques where luxury and fashion brands offer their previous seasons’ collections at prices

PA R I S PARIS GARE DE LYON

reduced by a minimum of 33% from the recommended retail price. La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com

MARNE-LA-VALLÉE-CHESSY/ PARC DISNEY STATION VAL D'EUROPE/ SERRIS MONTÉVRAIN STATION La Vallée Village A4 A4

HOW TO GET THERE By car from Paris Take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; parking is free, with 2,300 spaces. By car from Reims Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-laVallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/ Entrée A.

Train Station

Outlet Village

By train The closest TGV train station is Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy/ Parc Disney station. By RER train, take line A and alight at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station. La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away. A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every Sunday.

By Shopping Express® coach service La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express® service offers six daily departures from Paris, leaving from place des Pyramides, Porte Maillot and place du Trocadéro. Find more information about the service on lavalleevillage.com/ shoppingexpress.

DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE (€83) This exclusive package includes: Return tickets for the Shopping Express® luxury coach service from central Paris to the Village A VIP card providing a further 10% saving on purchases in six boutiques of your choice Lunch at Pret A Manger A €50 gift voucher to spend at a store of your choice

• • • •

S H O P | 75

MY PERFECT DAY XIMENA DANERI, SHOP’S FASHION EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE 10am Start the day admiring Kenzo’s signature style. Be sure to pick up one of the label’s sweaters – the prints are instantly recognisable. 12pm Take a break at Pret A Manger, which serves filled baguettes, salads, fresh soups and a selection of ethically sourced organic coffees. 3pm Discover the secret of effortless chic at Sandro. The French label’s casual fashion for men and women is youthful, ultra-hip and romantic. 4pm Perfect a look of understated cool by visiting The Kooples. The label’s androgynous collections combine vintage-inspired pieces with classic tailoring. 6pm End your day discovering the footwear and luxury leather goods available at Tod’s. The company is best known for its Gommino moccasins, made by hand and featuring 133 pins in each rubber sole. globalblue.com

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

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When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €175.01 and save an average of 12% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Galeries Lafayette 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris UME Galerie du Claridge, 74 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie 66 66 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie Élysées du 26 26 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris Bucherer 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris

79 85

TRANSLATIONS 美文翻译 38: Couture For The Future 定制未来

顾日装与晚礼服。 “我一直在探索性感又私密的风格，围绕身体来打造衣物，寻求露与遮的平衡， ”提及在 Lanvin的成衣首秀，Jarrar如是说道。她将自有品牌的鲜明特征和设计手法融入了 Lanvin的风格之中。“我总是向往本源与和谐。我喜欢为女性设计服装，为她们展现自我，提升魅力指数，并挑战女性柔美与男性之阳刚之间的界限。”

Christian Dior有着悠久的高级定制历史。从约翰 •加利亚诺（ John Galliano）的戏剧性创作到拉夫 • 西蒙（ Raf Simons）的现代主义风格，高级定制的概念已经相继在不同的创意总监手中得到不同的演绎与传承。拉夫 •西蒙入主迪奥后的第一个高级定制系列被录制为纪录片《迪奥与我》。虽然西蒙在 2015年底已经告别了这个时装屋，他的印记却留在了现任设计师的手中。在新近聘任的前 Valentino 时尚总监

Maria Grazia Chiuri 所设计的 2017春季款中，无论是宽下摆收腰裙，还是修身小西装，依然沿袭了迪奥的风格。并非每一个高定品牌在今季都认同了这种传统美学，比如 Viktor＆ Rolf，它们摆脱了对高级定制的传统理解，不再只是拘泥于制作炫耀的礼服，而是推出巴黎老牌时装屋所代表的高级定制世界随着时代的变

更为现代的设计，创意运用多色彩多质地多廓形设计

迁也在发生着变化。Theresa Harold带您了解那些震

出别样的礼服与裙装；又如 Maison Margiela，黑色

撼传统舞台的名字

薄纱巧妙缭绕出女性惊艳的面孔，带着浓郁的艺术气质，一切都让人大开眼界。

提起高级定制，人们总会想起法国古典时装大牌所设计的奢华靓丽的舞会礼服。然而，在当今的巴黎时装界，一群年轻的设计师不断为高级定制时装周注入新

物。2015年，这位来自佐治亚州的创意天才越过了小

的活力。他们用行动证明，高定设计的精细标准无需

众设计和知名品牌之间的界限，出任时装大牌巴黎世

受限于固定的审美理念。

家（ Balenciaga）艺术总监，轰动一时。在巴黎世

本季的新闻头条之一是 Bouchra Jarrar走马上任

家，Gvasalia展现了其典型的街头美学理念，亦不忘

Lanvin女装部艺术总监。早在 2010年，这位戛纳出生

向品牌的悠久传统致以真挚敬意；他游刃有余地玩转

的设计师就已创建自己的同名高定品牌，并由此声名

于这两种风格之间，并因此而备受嘉誉。

鹊起。创业之初，Jarrar作为巴黎高级时装工会

Demna Gvasalia是另一位精于“ 越界”的设计师。成名于 Vetements的他，是这个设计团体的门面人

Vetements巧妙地将高雅文化与流行文化结合在

（Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture）的嘉

一起，也由此赢得了世界各地时尚爱好者的青睐。作

宾，在巴黎展出自己的系列作品 — —高级时装工会是

为高级时装工会嘉宾，该品牌在高级定制时装周的首

法国时装行业的理事机构，也是官方和法律认可的

秀，透过其独一无二的 Vetements视角，延续了其成衣

“高级定制”监护机构。2013年 12月，Jarrar 终于正式

系列的模式，重新诠释了衣橱经典。2017年春夏

获得了高级定制服装设计师的资格，历史上只有少数

季，Vetements团队选择与其它品牌合作发布整个服

设计师曾取得这一成就。只有技法最精湛、创意最独到的设计师才能获得

装系列：从 Brioni的西装到 Levi’s的牛仔衣，从 Juicy Couture的运动装到 Mackintosh的外套，豪华阵容，

高级时装工会授予的殊荣。设计师需满足诸多要求，

精彩纷呈。“我们请各自领域最好的品牌，每件单品都

方可获得认证：必须为私人客户量身定制服装，成品

是以我们的方式做出来的。”Gvasalia解释说。

必须包含至少定制设计细节；此外设计师必须在巴黎

在高级定制的舞台上，这个系列的出现既让人出

拥有一间工作室，雇佣不少于 20名全职雇员；每年必

乎意料，同时又在情理之中。高级定制的宗旨就是追求

须发布两个至少由 50件原创设计组成的系列，且须兼

设计和生产的最优层面，也是 Gvasalia一直所强调的

globalblue.com

“自己的方式 ”。在 Vetements的大量宣传背后，是敏

柔滑的丝绸针织褶饰衬衫，即使出现在热门电视剧

锐的才智和对待细节一丝不苟的态度。

《豪门恩怨》（ Dallas）中也不会显得突兀。

像 Jarrar和 Gvasalia这样的设计师不断尝试高级

Anthony Vaccarello从 Saint Laurent的品牌档

定制的可能性，而一些其他品牌在颠覆着高定的生产

案和毕加索的女儿 Paloma Picasso（因大爱金色、红

方式。对于路易威登（ Louis Vuitton）这样的品牌，

色和黑色而著称）撷取无尽的灵感，在 Saint Laurent

高级定制的挑战不在于赚得声誉，而在于保持创新。

的首秀，他创作出肩部笔挺的 Le Smoking西装、垫肩

因此，为这些大牌效力的设计师们大胆拥抱新兴科

豹纹女式衬衫和带鸡心领的皮质紧身塑形上衣。八十

技。近日，在纽约大都会艺术博物馆举行的“ Manus

年代的复古风常常引发两极化的评价 — —人们要么爱

x Machina：信息时代的时装 ”展览上，来自路易威登

不释手，要么极其厌恶。

档案馆的范例作品得到公开展出。在该品牌现任创意总监 Nicolas Ghesquière设计的郁金香形连衣裙上，

嘻哈文化和闪闪发光的街头服饰也诞生在这个时代。饰有水晶的丹宁、圆形金属挂坠、热裤、低跟鞋和

手工镶嵌的装饰片和激光切割的金属条交相辉映。在

连帽衫轮番登台。香奈儿（Chanel）紧跟潮流，以花呢

其他人的手里，这样的设计可能被画蛇添足，但

篮球帽搭配机车夹克和短裙。在法国西北部长大的路

Ghesquière妙笔生花，将它们演绎得光彩夺目，精美

易威登（ Louis Vuitton）创意总监 Nicolas

至极。这些充满幻想的设计师们不断挑战时装的极限，

Ghesquière设计出一款饰有锁子甲的紧身针织连衣裙，充满无穷魅力。他推出的配饰 — — 路易威登

使得高级定制永葆光鲜亮丽，永远激动人心。

iPhone手机壳 — — 还一度成为时装周的焦点。

44: Blast From The Past

花、古着珠宝以及鲜艳大红色、泡泡糖粉、橘红和铁蓝

复古当道

色爱不释手，甚至有点怀念那个通过 MTV了解时尚、

这个季度，设计界刮起一股八十年代的复古风，将夸

人们也开始被怀旧情结所吸引，复古元素释放出焕然

张美艳的妆容搬上现代舞台。Harriet Quick带您一

一新的魅力。

新一代设计师对硬朗的肩部线条、充满活力的印

排队购买索尼 Walkman随身听和第一款手机的年代。

睹这股大胆前卫且充满活力的潮流新风尚

如今，人们常常通过社交媒体上的粉丝数等数据来衡量影响力，追踪潮流和时尚瞬间的速度之快令

70年代的复古风几乎占领了过去几个季度的时尚舞台，2017春夏季的趋势则深刻地受到 80年代的影响。

1980年代的风尚缔造者望尘莫及。激动人心的是，过去的事物被当今信息社会所接纳，孕育出全新的 1980

这个带来垫肩装、超短裙、金银丝镶嵌、莱茵石、豹纹

年代复古风貌。夸张的腮红和蓬松的头发还会重新流

和金属饰钉的时代在巴黎时装周燃起一股复古的火

行起来吗？时装秀台仅仅是一个开端。

焰。八十年代末期，这座光之城曾魅力四射，Castel、Les Bains Douches等夜总会中超模、摄影师和明星络绎不绝，在舞池中尽情享乐。社会名流

52: Top 5 Menswear Destinations On The Golden Triangle

搭乘超音速飞机穿梭于时尚之都巴黎、纽约和伦敦，

“黄金三角”购物区的五大男装精品店

从头到脚都是 Alaïa的行头。超级名模 Jerry Hall依旧记得从家乡德克萨斯州来到巴黎的情景 — — 初来乍到的她身着一条流苏绒面革短裙，脚蹬牛仔靴。她开始跟随世界著名摄影师

Helmut Newton拍照，时常出现在绘画天才Antonio Lopez的作品中，她的职业生涯一飞冲天。Hall与一帮模特 — — 包括 Iman和 Pat Cleveland（她的女儿 Anna Cleveland也是名模）— — 凭借着动人的舞姿、昼伏夜出的生活习惯和出众的容貌脱颖而出。这批才华横溢的族群还包括电影制片人 Jean- Paul Goude、紧张严肃的当今社会需要再次呼唤这种勃勃生机和纯粹性感，新一代创作人才也对此表现出浓厚的兴趣。巴黎世家（ Balenciaga）设计总监 Demna

Gvasalia推出了一个激动人心的时装系列：衬有垫肩的西装夹克通过精妙的裁剪看上去仿佛挂在巨大的衣架上一般；印有花朵图案的氨纶打底裤及长靴；以及 globalblue.com

歌手 Grace Jones和设计师 Paloma Picasso等。

由香榭丽舍大道、蒙田大道和乔治五世大道组成的

是选购休闲时尚服装的绝佳去处。色彩斑斓的图案和

“黄金三角”（ Triangle d’Or）堪称巴黎最奢华的购物

标语已成为品牌的特征，无论是袜子还是运动衫上都

目的地。这里荟萃了顶级法国品牌和国际大牌，是每

随处可见，为定制外衣平添意想不到的效果。最新款

一位时尚男士来到巴黎的必访之地。从腕表到皮具，

式的高级运动鞋系列也不容错过。

从时装到配饰，Hannah Lewis为您细数这一著名购

Kenzo, 51 avenue George V, 75008 巴黎,

物街区五大不容错过的精品店。

+ 33 ( 0) 1 4723 3349,

kenzo. com 1. 杰尼亚（ Ermenegildo Zegna）意大利品牌杰尼亚是世界顶级男装大牌之一，以精致

5. 诺悠翩雅（ Loro Piana）

优雅的西装闻名于世。杰尼亚创立于一个多世纪以前的

诺悠翩雅从一家小型羊毛商起家，诞生于意大利北部

1910 年，一百多年来始终走在精湛裁剪的最前沿，传

的 Trivero地区，这个地区因生产奢侈纺织品而闻名。

承和磨砺历史悠久的杰出工艺，从不畏拥抱最新技术。

如今，诺悠翩雅已成为全世界领先的羊毛和开司米专

前往乔治五世大街上的精品店预约“量身定制”（su m i su r a ）服务，专业的裁剪师将全程为您定制一套独

业品牌，以研究稀有奢侈面料而著称，其最新发现是

一无二的西服。从选择完美面料到确定细节，打造出属

是普通面料，诺悠翩雅只选择最好的。从纯棉衬衫到

于您的独特风格，一切交给专业人士最放心不过。

开司米袜子，男装系列擅长把常规款式带入奢侈品的

Ermenegildo Zegna, 40 avenue George V, 75116 巴黎, + 33 ( 0) 1 5357 8790, zegna. com

新境界。欢迎您惠顾诺悠翩雅蒙田大街分店享受其量

2. 路易威登（ Louis Vuitton）

一种从荷花中提取出的珍贵纤维。无论是稀有材质还

身定制服务。

Loro Piana, 38 avenue Montaigne, 75008 巴黎, + 33 ( 0) 1 5664 0600, loropiana. com

在当今，鲜有可以和路易威登相媲美的超级品牌。步入这家法国品牌的蒙田大道分店，男士们可以领略琳琅满目的商品。这家时尚靓丽的精品店汇集了成衣、

76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

腕表、眼镜、鞋履、皮具、配饰和手袋。虽然路易威登

畅购全球，尊享退税

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 38: Couture For The Future Высокая мода будущего

Долгое время парижский haute couture ограничивался только историческими модными домами. Тереза Гарольд рассказывает о дизайнерах, которые преображают представления о высокой моде. С высокой модой ассоциируются классические французские бренды и шикарные бальные платья. Однако сейчас на модной сцене Парижа набирает силу волна молодых дизайнеров. Они способны вдохнуть новую жизнь в Неделю высокой моды и доказать, что haute couture не связан строгими эстетическими ограничениями. Бушра Жаррар, дизайнер из Канн, попала в заголовки модных изданий как вновь назначенный художественный директор женской линии Lanvin. Но прежде она прославилась как кутюрье под собственным брендом Bouchra Jarrar, который был основан в 2010. Ее творческий путь начался с презентации коллекций в Париже в качестве гостя Chambre Syndicale de globalblue.com

la Haute Couture. Эта организация управляет французской модной индустрией и бережно хранит официальный и защищенный законом термин haute couture. В декабре 2013 года Жаррар получила статус кутюрье, которого удостаивается далеко не каждый дизайнер. Chambre Syndicale жалует этот титул только самым искусным и творческим кутюрье при соответствии целому ряду требований. Для этого дизайнер должен создавать одежду по индивидуальной мерке для частных клиентов, вызывая их на одну или более примерок. У него также должно быть ателье в Париже, где работает не менее 20 человек на полной занятости. Модный дом должен представлять две коллекции в год, в каждой – не менее 50 оригинальных моделей, включая дневные и вечерние предметы гардероба. В дебютную коллекцию готовой одежды для Lanvin Жаррар перенесла характерные черты и приемы линии высокой моды: «Я исследую возможности выражения чувственности и близости, выстраиваю одежду вокруг тела, обнажаю и, наоборот, прячу силуэт. Я ищу сущность и гармонию. Я люблю одевать женщин, открыть их для них самих, возвышать их, пересекать границы между женственностью и мужественностью». Christian Dior имеет легендарную историю. Концепция кутюра интерпретировалась художественными руководителями компании по-разному: от драматических образов Джона Гальяно до модернистских – Рафа Симонса, первая коллекция которого была показана в фильме Dior и я. Симонс покинул модный дом в конце 2015 года, а в 2017 с весенней коллекцией дебютировал новый креативный директор Мария Грация Кьюри, прежде работавшая в Valentino. Укороченные талии, объемные юбки и структурированные куртки придали коллекции характерные для Dior черты, в то время как индивидуальный почерк Кьюри проявился в откровенной женственности многослойных тюлевых тканей и замысловатой вышивке. Ведущие бренды в этом сезоне бросили вызов концепциям традиционной эстетики кутюр. В Viktor & Rolf платья-халаты, блузы и вечерние платья сочетали самые разные цвета, текстуры и формы. У Maison Margiela стилизо-

32 avenue Matignon - 75008 PARIS h-gringoire.fr

ванные силуэты женских лиц просматривались через многочисленные слои пальто, платьев и многого другого. Демна Гвасалия, дизайнер грузинского происхождения, – тоже адепт пересечения границ. Впервые он обрел славу как лицо дизайнерского коллектива Vetements. Назначение его художественным директором модного дома Balenciaga в 2015 году наделало много шума: он пересек границу культового и исторического. В новом статусе Гвасалия завоевал признание благодаря своему умению уравновешивать собственный стиль, вдохновленный стритстайлом, и неподдельному уважению к наследию модного дома. Бренд Vetements точно попал в предпочтения любителей актуальной моды, поскольку умеет играть на грани элитарной и популярной культуры. Неудивительно, что первая же коллекция высокой моды, представленная в статусе гостя Chambre Syndical, повторила успех коллекции готовой одежды. Ведь она состояла из классических предметов гардероба, переосмысленных сквозь особую призму Vetements. Вся коллекция сезона весна-лето 2017 создана командой Vetements в коллаборации с другими брендами: в том числе – костюмы Brioni, деним Levi’s, спортивные костюмы Juicy Couture и верхняя одежда Mackintosh. «Мы подумали, что стоит отправиться напрямую к брендам, которые делают эти вещи лучше всех, и предложить им создать что-то в нашей манере», – прокомментировал Гвасалия. В мире высокой моды такой подход может показаться неожиданным, но в этом есть определенный символизм. Высокая мода – это всегда лучшее из лучшего в дизайне и качестве, и именно это подчеркнул Гвасалия в свойственной ему манере, когда пригласил лучших в своем деле к сотрудничеству. За шумихой вокруг Vetements всегда стоят остроумная идея и пристальное внимание к деталям. Если Жаррар и Гвасалия экспериментируют с тем, как может выглядеть высокая мода, то другие модные дома переворачивают представления о том, как она создается. Для брендов с большой историей, как, например, Louis Vuitton, сложность состоит не в закреплении репутации, а в поддержании актуальности. Для этого дизайнеры с особым рвением осваивают современные технологии. Недавно на выставке Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of globalblue.com

Technology в Метрополитен-музее в Нью-Йорке выставлялись экспонаты из архива Louis Vuitton. Платье с юбкой-тюльпаном, созданное креативным директором Николя Гескьером, было примечательно использованием аппликации ручной работы и полосок металла, тонко вырезанных лазером. Будь дизайнером кто-то другой, это превратилось бы в нарочитое излишество. Но профессиональное мастерство Гескьера помогло сделать вещи столь же эффектными и заслуживающими восхищения, как шантильское кружево. Если все эти фантазеры продолжат раздвигать границы возможного в моде, haute couture сумеет остаться столь же свежим и волнующим миром, каким он был всегда. 44: Blast From The Past Импульс из прошлого В этом сезоне дизайнеры обращаются к 1980-м за характерной атмосферой дерзости и чрезмерности, – рассказывает Харриет Куик Отсылки к 1970-м неотступно сопровождали последние модные сезоны. Но коллекции весна-лето 2017 оказались подвержены влиянию следующего десятилетия. На Парижской неделе моды материал для ретро-вдохновения дали именно 1980-е, с их объемными плечами, самыми короткими мини-юбками, ламе, искусственными бриллиантами, леопардовыми принтами и заклепками. В конце 1980-х Город огней стал центром притяжения шикарной жизни: на танцполах парижских ночных клубах Castel и Les Bains Douches предавались гедонизму супермодели, фотографы и знаменитости. Светские завсегдатаи курсировали в сверхзвуковых «Конкордах» между тремя модными столицами, Парижем, Нью-Йорком и Лондоном, и могли одеваться у Alaïa с ног до головы. Супермодель Джерри Холл хорошо помнит переезд в Париж из родного Техаса – этакий неофит в замшевой юбке с бахромой и ковбойских сапогах. Она начала сниматься у великого Хельмуга Ньютона, позировать для модного иллюстратора Антонио Лопеза, и постепенно ее карьера и стиль расправили крылья. Холл попала в узкий круг моделей, которые уловили

дух времени и вписались в эту эпоху с дикими танцами, ночным образом жизни и сверкающей красотой. Одновременно с ней блистали Пэт Кливленд (ее дочь Анна теперь стала новой звездой) и Иман. Их успех разделяли невероятно талантливые художники: режиссер ЖанПоль Годэ, певица Грейс Джонс и дизайнер Палома Пикассо. В наше серьезное время атмосфера изобилия и чистой сексуальности вновь оказалась востребованной, и привлекает новое поколение дизайнеров. В новую коллекцию Демны Гвасалия для Balenciaga вошли костюмные пиджаки с объемными плечами и изобретательным кроем, которые на ком угодно будут сидеть как на вешалках, сапоги из спандекса с цветочными принтом, блузы из гладкого шелкового джерси с рюшами на груди, которые бы смотрелись вполне уместно в сериале «Даллас». Для дебютной коллекции Энтони Ваккарелло в Saint Laurent источником вдохновения послужили богатые архивы модного дома и яркий образ Паломы Пикассо (которая известна своей любовью к золотому, красному и черному цветам). Он создал костюмы Le Smoking с острыми плечами, блузы с леопардовыми принтами и объемными мягкими плечами, а также кожаные рельефные корсажи с очаровательным декольте. Тренд на 1980-е вызывает полярные мнения: вы его либо любите, либо ненавидите. Эта же эпоха подарила миру хип-хоп и культ уличной одежды с броскими украшениями. Расшитый кристаллами деним, медальоны, обтягивающие штаны, пайты с капюшонами и тонкие каблуки появились на подиумах. У Chanel это проявилось в сочетании твидовых бейсболок с куртками-бомберами и юбками. Николя Гескьер, который провел 1980-е на северо-западе Франции, создал для Louis Vuitton эффектные платья из тонкого джерси с кольчужными вставками. Он также представил аксессуар, который активно обсуждали во время модной недели, – чехол для iPhone от Louis Vuitton. Новое поколение дизайнеров очаровано объемными плечами, избыточными принтами, недорогими украшениями и пульсирующими цветами – ярко-красным, мандариновым, электрическим синим, розовым оттенка

жевательной резинки. Есть в этом обращении к 1980-м и налет ностальгии по тем временам, когда MTV был источником сведений о моде, только появились первые мобильные телефоны, а покупатели выстраивались в очередь за плейерами Walkman от Sony. Аналоговые устройства внезапно обрели новую привлекательность и превратились в предметы коллекционирования. В наши дни мы измеряем влияние в количестве подписчиков и лайков в социальных сетях. Мы ранжируем тренды и модные веяния на скорости, невообразимой для 1980-х. Очень интересно наблюдать, как прошлое увлекает современное общество, сколь бы технологически продвинутым оно ни было, и отмечать возрождение стиля 1980-х. Будут ли румяна снова яркими и контрастными? А прически – огромными? Ведь подиумы – это только начало. 52: Top 5 Menswear Destinations On The Golden Triangle Топ-5 бутиков мужской одежды в парижском золотом треугольнике Avenue des Champs-Élysées, avenue Montaigne и avenue George V образуют так называемый «Золотой треугольник» (Triangle d’Or) – одно из самых статусных направлений для шоппинга в Париже. Здесь сконцентрированы представительства ведущих французских и

иностранных брендов. И потому побывать здесь должен каждый джентльмен во время визита в столицу Франции. Часы, кожгалантерея, одежда и аксессуары – Ханна Льюис выбрала пять самых интересных мужских бутиков. 1. Ermenegildo Zegna Ermenegildo Zegna, один из ведущих мировых брендов мужской одежды, был основан более века назад, в 1910 году, и с тех пор славится качественными и стильными костюмами. Успех ему обеспечивает сочетание постоянного оттачивания традиционных методов с освоением новых технологий. Договоритесь о встрече со специалистами сервиса su misura в бутике на avenue George V, чтобы пройти весь процесс создания костюма по индивидуальной мерке. Здесь вы в надежных руках: от выбора тканей до обработки мельчайших деталей – этот костюм будет полностью соответствовать вашим ожиданиям. Ermenegildo Zegna, 40 avenue George V, 75116 Париж, +33 (0)1 5357 8790, zegna.com 2. Louis Vuitton Трудно себе представить более значительный супербренд, чем Louis Vuitton. В стильном бутике на avenue Montaigne вниманию джентльменов представлен впечатляющий ассортимент французской марки: коллекции одежды, часы, очки, обувь, кожгалантерея, аксессуары и сумки. Среди парижских подиумных брендов Louis Vuitton – один из самых авторитетных и знаменитых, при этом его коллекции неизменно современны. Мужчинам с хорошим вкусом стоит обратиться к новой коллекции Кима Джонса, художественного директора мужской линии. Источником вдохновения ему послужили места, где он жил и которые полюбил. Поэтому на обновленных рубашках с монограммами появились животные мотивы, что делает их особенно востребованными в этом сезоне. Louis Vuitton, 22 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Париж, +33 (0)1 4562 4700, louisvuitton.com globalblue.com

3. John Lobb Компания John Lobb получила свое название в честь британского обувщика Джона Лобба, хотя сегодня она базируется, главным образом, в Париже. Более 150 лет бренд создает туфли и ботинки по индивидуальной мерке для мужчин в поиске идеальной обуви. В бутике на rue François 1er посетителям доступен сервис By Request: сотни моделей, материалов, цветов, вариантов посадки и отделки позволят создать полностью персонализированную пару. Сделайте выбор в пользу индивидуальной работы, и опытные мастера John Lobb создадут для вас обувь, идеально отвечающую вашим меркам, вкусам и потребностям. Спустя 50 часов работы они предложат вам самые качественные и красивые ботинки. John Lobb, 51 rue François 1er, 75008 Париж, +33 (0)1 4561 0255, johnlobb.com 4. Kenzo Требования к мужскому гардеробу становятся все менее строгими. Теперь даже самые элегантные джентльмены могут позволить себе дополнить гардероб несколькими повседневными вещами. Бутик Kenzo – идеальное место, чтобы выбрать что-нибудь непринужденное и ориентированное на моду. Отличительным знаком бренда стали яркие узоры, а надписи украшают все, от носков до толстовок. С их помощью можно добавить неожиданный акцент в строгий ансамбль. Коллекция модных кроссовок Kenzo также достойна особого внимания. Kenzo, 51 avenue George V, 75008 Париж, +33 (0)1 4723 3349, kenzo.com 5. Loro Piana История Loro Piana началась с небольшой компании, торговавшей шерстью, в регионе Триверо на севере Италии, который славится роскошными тканями. Со временем этот бренд стал одним из мировых лидеров по шерсти и кашемиру. Постоянные исследования редких и дорогих материалов также укрепляют ее статус. Среди недавних открытий Loro Piana – необычное волокно из цветка лотоса. Как из

редчайших, так и из самых востребованных тканей бренд выбирает только лучшие. Поэтому мужская коллекция выводит на новый уровень восприятия базовые вещи, будь то хлопковые рубашки или кашемировые носки. Заглянув в бутик Loro Piana на avenue Montaigne, обязательно спросите о создании одежды по индивидуальной мерке. Loro Piana, 38 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Париж, +33 (0)1 5664 0600, loropiana.com 76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

،‫كل القطع‬ ّ ‫تشتهر العالمة برموزها وشعاراتها المل ّونة البارزة على‬ ‫خاصة إلى أي لباس‬ ّ ‫ وتضيف لمسة‬،‫من الجوارب إلى القمصان‬ .‫ تجدر اإلشارة أيضاً إلى تشكيلة األحذية الرياضيّة الفاخرة‬.‫رسمي‬ ، 75008 ، 51 avenue George V ، Kenzo kenzo.com ، +33 (0)1 4723 3349 5. Loro Piana

‫ شمالي‬Trivero ‫ في مقاطعة‬Loro Piana ‫نشأت عالمة‬ ‫كمحل صغير‬ ّ ‫إيطاليا الشهيرة بإنتاج األقمشة الفاخرة وبدأت‬ ‫ واليوم باتت الشركة من أبرز اختصاصيّي الصوف‬.‫لبيع الصوف‬ ‫والكشمير في العالم وتُعرف بأبحاثها في مجال األقمشة النادرة‬ ‫نسيج نادر مصنوع من زهرة‬ ٌ ‫ من اكتشافاتها األخيرة‬.‫والفاخرة‬ ‫ نخبة النخبة من أندر األقمشة‬Loro Piana ‫ تختار‬.‫اللوتس‬ ‫إلى أكثرها شيوعاً وتشتهر مجموعتها الرجاليّة باللّمسات الفاخرة‬ ‫ من قمصان قطنيّة إلى جوارب‬،‫التي تضيفها إلى القطع األساسيّة‬ ‫ اسأل عن خدمة التصميم بحسب الطلب في متجر‬.‫من الكشمير‬ .Montaigne ‫شارع‬ L ، Loro Piana ، 75008 ، 38 avenue Montaigne loropiana.com ، +33 (0)1 5664 0600 76 :When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

‫ تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬،‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‬

‫ خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬Global Blue ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو‬ ‫ لتدّخر المال لدى تس ّوقك في أكثر من‬Tax Free ‫دفع الضريبة‬ .‫ متجر في أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العالم‬300,000 ‫ مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬26 ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إلى الـ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ّ Global Blue ‫دفع الضريبة من خالل غلوبل بلو‬ ‫عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ .‫ وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‬Global Blue ‫ تس ّوق‬.1 ‫الخاص‬ ‫ أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة‬،‫أينما تس ّوقت‬ ّ .‫ وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‬Global Blue ‫بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫أطلب‬.2 ‫ أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة‬،‫في طريق العودة إلى وطنك‬ ‫المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسترداد من‬ .‫الخاصة بنا‬ ‫أحد مكاتب االسترداد‬ ّ :‫لالتّصال‬

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 ‫ من ثمن‬12% ‫ يورو وادّخر حتّى‬175.01 ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدنى قدره‬

‫ يشمل مبلغ االسترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه‬.‫مشترياتك‬ ‫ في بعض‬.‫مجموع الضريبة على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري‬ ‫ يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد ضريبة‬،‫المطارات‬ .‫في حال رغبت بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي‬

‫‪86‬‬

‫‪52: Top 5 Menswear Destinations On The‬‬ ‫‪Golden Triangle‬‬

‫أفضل خمس محالت مالبس رجاليّة في المثلّث الذهبي‬

‫تُعرف المنطقة الممتدّة بين شارع ‪ Champs-Élysées‬وشارع‬ ‫‪ Montaigne‬وشارع ‪ ،George V‬بـ ‪Triangle d’Or‬‬ ‫(المثلّث الذهبي بالعربيّة) وهي من أفخر ُوجهات التس ّوق في‬ ‫باريس‪ .‬تض ّم عالمات تجاريّة فرنسيّة وعالميّة مرموقة فتستحيل‬ ‫ُوجه ًة ال ب ّد للرجال المتأنّقين الذين يستكشفون المدينة من‬ ‫زيارتها‪ .‬تسلّط ‪ Hannah Lewis‬الضوء على خمس محالت ال‬ ‫تختص بالساعات والسلع‬ ‫يمكن تفويتها في هذه المنطقة الراقية‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫الجلديّة فالمالبس واألكسسوارات‪.‬‬

‫‪1‬‬

‫‪2. Louis Vuitton‬‬ ‫ليست العالمات التجاريّة الخارقة أكبر بكثير من ‪Louis‬‬ ‫‪ Vuitton‬ويمكن الرجال المتأنّقين استكشاف تشكيلة مذهلة‬

‫من التصاميم في فرع هذه العالمة الفرنسيّة التاريخيّة في شارع‬ ‫المحل الفائق الروعة مالبس جاهزة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ .Montaigne‬يض ّم هذا‬ ‫وساعات ونظّارات وأحذية وسلعاً جلديّة وأكسسوارات وحقائب‪.‬‬ ‫رغم أ ّن ‪ Louis Vuitton‬هي من أعرق وأفخر عالمات عروض‬ ‫األزياء في باريس‪ ،‬من المفاجئ أ ّن مجموعاتها عصريّة وال‬ ‫ب ّد للرجال المتتبّعين للموضة من اختيار قطع ٍة (أو أكثر) من‬ ‫المجموعة األخيرة للمدير الف ّني لقسم المالبس الرجاليّة ‪Kim‬‬ ‫‪ .Jones‬استوحى ‪ Jones‬قمصانه المزخرفة بحروف من أماكن‬ ‫متعدّدة عاش فيها وأحبّها وقد ط ّورها هذا الموسم مستخدماً رموز‬ ‫حيوانات وعناصر محدّدة معروفة‪.‬‬ ‫‪،Louis Vuitton‬‬ ‫‪،‬‬ ‫‪75008 ، 22 avenue Montaigne‬‬ ‫‪،+33 (0)1 4562 4700‬‬ ‫‪louisvuitton.com‬‬ ‫‪3. John Lobb‬‬

‫ُس ّميت شركة ‪ John Lobb‬بهذا اإلسم نسب ًة إلى صانع أحذية‬ ‫بريطاني عريق‪ ،‬لك ّنها تتّخذ من باريس اليوم مق ّرا ً لها‪ .‬في‬ ‫رصيدها ما يزيد عن ‪ 150‬سنة من الخبرة في مجال األحذية‬ ‫والجزمات المص ّممة بحسب الطلب‪ ،‬فتشكّل الوجهة المثاليّة‬ ‫المحل الواقع في شارع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للرجال الباحثين عن أحذية ممتازة‪.‬في‬ ‫‪ ،FranÇois 1er‬تتيح خدمة ‪ By Request‬للزبائن أن‬ ‫والقصات‬ ‫يختاروا من بين مئات الموديالت والمواد واأللوان‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واللّمسات األخيرة البتكار حذا ٍء خاص بامتياز‪ .‬ننصحك باختيار‬ ‫خدمة التصميم الكامل بحسب الطلب حيث يصنع خبراء ‪John‬‬ ‫‪ Lobb‬المتم ّرسين حذا ًء يناسب تماماً مقاساتك وذوقك وحاجاتك‬ ‫الشخصيّة‪ .‬تستغرق هذه العمليّة حوالي خمسين ساعة من عمل‬ ‫الحرفيّين الماهرين لتأتي النتيجة في ق ّمة الفخامة‪.‬‬ ‫‪، John Lobb‬‬ ‫‪،‬‬ ‫‪75008 ، 51 rue François 1er‬‬ ‫‪،+33 (0)1 4561 0255‬‬ ‫‪johnlobb.com‬‬ ‫‪1. Ermenegildo Zegna‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: (LEFT) COURTESY OF JOHN LOBB‬‬

‫تشتهر العالمة اإليطاليّة ‪ Ermenegildo Zegna‬بخياطة‬ ‫المختصة بالمالبس الرجاليّة في‬ ‫البدالت وهي من أبرز العالمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تأسست منذ ما يزيد عن قرنٍ سنة ‪ 1910‬وبقيت مذّاك‬ ‫العالم‪ّ .‬‬ ‫في صدارة الخياطة الممتازة‪ ،‬مع احترام التقنيّات العريقة وصقلها‬ ‫من دون التردّد باعتماد أحدث التكنولوجيّات‪ .‬احجز موعدا ً في‬ ‫المحل الواقع في شارع ‪ George V‬لتجربة خدمة ‪su misura‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫حيث يطلعك اختصاصيّون بالخياطة بحسب الطلب على سائر‬ ‫الخاصة‪ .‬ففي شتّى المراحل‪ ،‬من اختيار‬ ‫مراحل ابتكار بدلتك‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األقمشة األمثل إلى االتّفاق على التفاصيل الدقيقة التي تجعل‬ ‫البدلة لك بامتياز‪ ،‬ال يمكن أن تكون بأيدي أكثر أماناً‪.‬‬ ‫‪،Ermenegildo Zegna‬‬ ‫‪،‬‬ ‫‪75116 ، 40 avenue George V‬‬ ‫‪zegna.com ، +33 (0)1 5357 8790‬‬

‫‪3‬‬ ‫‪4. Kenzo‬‬

‫بُعيد تبسيط قواعد خياطة المالبس الرجاليّة‪ ،‬بات بإمكان ّحتى‬ ‫الرجال األكثر أناقة ارتداء بعض القطع العمليّة الجميلة‪،‬‬ ‫و‪ Kenzo‬هو المكان المثالي الختيار تصاميم غير رسميّة مبتكرة‪.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪87‬‬

‫‪ .Mackintosh‬قال ‪’ Gvasalia‬نذاك‪“ :‬فكّرنا بالتو ّجه مباشر ًة‬ ‫كل‬ ‫إلى هذه العالمات التي تتميّز بهذه التصاميم ونطلب من ّ‬ ‫الخاصة”‪.‬‬ ‫واحدة منها ابتكار شي ٍء على طريقتنا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ربّما لم تكن المجموعة ُمتوقّعة في مجال األزياء المص ّممة‬ ‫بحسب الطلب‪ ،‬لك ّنها برزت بطريق ٍة ما‪ .‬لطالما ارتبط تصميم‬ ‫األزياء بحسب الطلب بنخبة التصميم والتنفيذ وهذا ما كان يركّز‬ ‫الخاص‪ .‬فخلف صيت ‪Vetements‬‬ ‫عليه ‪ Gvasalia‬بأسلوبه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المد ّوي ث ّمة ذكاء حا ّد واهتمام دقيق بالتفاصيل‪.‬‬ ‫في حين يقوم بعض المص ّممين على سبيل ‪Jarrar‬‬ ‫و‪ Gvasalia‬باختبار أفكار مرتبطة باألساليب الممكنة في‬ ‫األزياء المص ّممة بحسب الطلب‪ ،‬تطلق دور أزياء أخرى ُسبُالً‬ ‫البتكارها‪ .‬بالنسبة إلى عالمات مثل ‪ ،Louis Vuitton‬ال يكمن‬ ‫التحدّي في هذا المجال في صناعة إسمٍ لها‪ ،‬بل بالمحافظة‬ ‫على االبتكار‪ .‬لذلك‪ ،‬يلجأ المص ّممون في هكذا دو ٍر عريقة‪ ،‬إلى‬ ‫استخدام التكنولوجيا بصور ٍة واضحة‪ .‬في معرض ‪Manus x‬‬ ‫‪ Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology‬في‬ ‫متحف ‪ Metropolitan‬في نيويورك‪ُ ،‬عرضت بعض القطع‬ ‫من أرشيف ‪ .Louis Vuitton‬ص ّمم المدير االبتكاري الحالي‬ ‫للدار ‪ ،Nicolas Ghesquière‬فستاناً أسفله على شكل زنبقة‬ ‫وشمل طبقات مركّبة يدويّاً وشرائط معدنيّة مقصوصة على الليزر‪.‬‬ ‫لو قام أي مص ّمم ’خر بذلك العتبر ُمغاالة‪ ،‬لكن بفضل براعة‬ ‫كأي تخريم ‪.Chantilly‬‬ ‫‪ ،Ghesquière‬كانت النتيجة مذهلة ّ‬ ‫بينما يمضي المعاصرون بتوسيع ’فاق األزياء‪ ،‬تبقى األزياء‬ ‫الفاخرة حيويّة ومثيرة لالهتمام كما كانت أبدا ً‪.‬‬ ‫‪44: Blast From The Past‬‬

‫نفحة من الماضي‬

‫استفاض المص ّممون هذا الموسم بالرجوع إلى الثمانينات‪ ،‬جالبين‬ ‫السحر المفرط الذي ساد في ذلك العقد إلى عالمنا الحديث‪.‬‬ ‫تسلّط ‪ Harriet Quick‬الضوء على الترحيب الذي يلقاه هذا‬ ‫الحس الجديد بالجرأة والحماسة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫في حين أحيَت المواسم األخيرة الماضية سنوات السبعينات من‬ ‫دون كلل أو ملل تقريباً‪ ،‬يبدو ان العقد الذي تالها ترك أثرا ً أكبر‬ ‫في مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ .2017‬فالحقبة التي ع ّرفتنا إلى األكتاف‬ ‫المبطّنة والتنانير الفائقة القصر واللمعة المفرطة واألحجار الزائفة‬ ‫ونقش الفهد والمسامير وغيرها كانت الزيت الذي أشعل نار‬ ‫الماضي في أسبوع باريس للموضة‪ .‬كانت مدينة األضواء مركز‬ ‫السحر في أواخر الثمانينات‪ ،‬حيث اكتظّت المالهي اللّيليّة على‬ ‫سبيل ‪ Castel‬و‪ Les Bains Douches‬بعارضات األزياء‬ ‫والمص ّورين والمشاهير الذين يعتمدون أسلوب حيا ٍة ملء بالمتعة‬ ‫على حلبة الرقص‪ .‬وقد تنقّلت هذه الشخصيّات بين عواصم‬ ‫األزياء‪ ،‬باريس ونيويورك ولندن‪ ،‬وركبت طيّارات ‪Concorde‬‬ ‫الفوق صوتيّة وارتدت تصاميم ‪ Alaïa‬من الرأس حتّى أخمص‬ ‫القدمين‪.‬‬ ‫تتذكّر عارضة األزياء الشهيرة ‪ Jerry Hall‬كيف وصلت‬ ‫إلى باريس قادمة من مدينتها تكساس وبدت كالمبتدئة في ت ّنورة‬ ‫شراشيب من جلد السويد وجزمة راعي بقر‪ .‬عملت مع المص ّور‬ ‫الفوتوغرافي العالمي ‪ Helmut Newton‬وغالباً ما رسمها‬

‫الف ّنان الموهوب ‪ .Antonio Lopez‬فحلّقت بعملها وأسلوبها‬ ‫عاليا ً‪ .‬كانت ‪ Hall‬ومجموعة من العارضات ومنهم ‪Iman‬‬ ‫و‪ Pat Cleveland‬المفعمة بالحياة (ابنتها ‪ Anna‬نجم ٌة‬ ‫منصات العرض)‪ ،‬من الشابّات اللواتي اغتنمن الفرصة‬ ‫جديدة على ّ‬ ‫من خالل الرقص الجامح والسهر حتّى الفجر وجماله ّن الباهر‪.‬‬ ‫وكان صانع األفالم ‪ Jean-Paul Goude‬والمغ ّنية ‪Grace‬‬ ‫‪ Jones‬والمص ّممة ‪ Paloma Picasso‬جزءا ً من هذه الباقة‬ ‫الخارقة الموهبة‪.‬‬ ‫ماسة إلى‬ ‫واليوم‪ ،‬في هذه األوقات الحرجة‪ ،‬ث ّمة حاجة ّ‬ ‫الحس بالحيويّة وباإلثارة غير المبتذلة التي تجذب‬ ‫إعادة هذا ّ‬ ‫جيالً جديدا ً من المبتكرين‪ .‬ص ّممت ‪Demna Gvasalia‬‬ ‫لدى ‪ Balenciaga‬مجموع ًة رائعة شملت سترات بدالت‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫مفصلة بإبداع لتبدو وكأنّها ما زالت معلّقة‬ ‫مز ّودة‬ ‫بأكتاف مبطّنة‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫على ح ّمالة مالبس ضخمة وجزمات متّصلة بسراويل مطّاطيّة‬ ‫بنقش الزهور وقمصان من جرسيه الحرير الناعم مزمزمة عند‬ ‫الخصر؛ كلّها تصاميم كانت لتبدو في المكان الصحيح في الدراما‬ ‫الشهيرة ‪.Dallas‬‬ ‫أ ّما ‪ ،Anthony Vaccarello‬فاستوحى في بداية‬ ‫مسيرته مع ‪ Saint Laurent‬من أرشيف الدار الغني وشخصيّة‬ ‫‪ Paloma Picasso‬الساحرة (المعروفة بحبّها أللوان الذهبي‬ ‫واألحمر واألسود) ليبتكر بدالت ‪ Le Smoking‬المس ّننة األكتاف‬ ‫وقمصاناً مبطّنة األكتاف بنقش الفهد وكورسيهات جلديّة مكشوفة‬ ‫حل‬ ‫الصدر بياقة على شكل قلب‪ .‬ففي موضة الثمانينات‪ ،‬ما من ّ‬ ‫وسط؛ إ ّما تحبّها أو تكرهها‪.‬‬ ‫في هذه الحقبة أيضاً‪ ،‬راجت مالبس الهيب هوب ومالبس‬ ‫منصات العرض‬ ‫الشارع المزخرفة بك ّم من البريق‪ .‬فظهرت على ّ‬ ‫مرصعة بالكريستال وحلي وشورتات مثيرة‬ ‫قط ٌع من الدّنيم ّ‬ ‫وكعوب قصيرة وكنزات مز ّودة بقبّعات‪ .‬فسارت ‪ Chanel‬مع‬ ‫التيّار وابتكرت قبّعات كرة قاعدة من التويد‪ ،‬يمكن اعتمارها مع‬ ‫ستر ٍة منتفخة وت ّنورة‪ .‬ولدى ‪ Louis Vuitton‬قام ‪Nicolas‬‬ ‫‪ ،Ghesquière‬الذي ترعرع شمال غرب فرنسا في تلك الحقبة‪،‬‬ ‫بابتكار فساتين ضيّقة مذهلة من الجرسيه تتخلّلها أجزاء من‬ ‫حلقات معدنيّة صغيرة‪ .‬كما ابتدع قطعة األكسسوار التي شكّلت‬ ‫حديث أسبوع الموضة أال وهي غالف ‪ Louis Vuitton‬لهاتف‬ ‫‪.iPhone‬‬ ‫جيل جديد مفتون باألكتاف البارزة والنقوش الحيويّة‬ ‫ث ّمة ٌ‬ ‫والمجوهرات الزائفة واأللوان النابضة بالحياة كاألحمر الصارخ‬ ‫والزهري الباهر والبرتقالي واألزرق الزاهي‪ .‬ربّما ث ّمة أيضاً بعض‬ ‫الحنين إلى تلك السنوات التي اعتمدت الموضة كنوع من التسلية‬ ‫اصطف الزبائن أمام‬ ‫من خالل ‪ MTV‬وذلك الزمن عندما‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المحالت لشراء جهاز ‪ Walkman‬من ‪ Sony‬وأولى الهواتف‬ ‫الخلويّة‪ .‬ففجأ ًة يبدو القديم ملفتاً وث ّمة عنصر جاذب في هذه‬ ‫االبتكارات السابقة‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما اليوم‪ ،‬فيمكن تقييم األثر من خالل عدد المتابعين والـ‬ ‫‪ likes‬على وسائل التواصل االجتماعي وترويج موضة معيّنة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بسرعة ال يفهمها من خلق تلك األساليب األصليّة في الثمانينات‪.‬‬ ‫جميل أن نرى مجتمع اليوم الغارق بالتكنولوجيا يحتضن عناصر‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫من الماضي وأن نشهد على عمليّة إحياء الثمانينات‪ .‬إذا ً هل‬ ‫ستعود موضة أحمر الخدود الصارخ؟ أو الشعر المنكوش؟ ليست‬ ‫منصات العرض إال نقطة االنطالق‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪88‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪38: Couture For The Future‬‬

‫أزياء للمستقبل‬

‫بعد أن كان عالم األزياء الفاخرة مهد الدور الباريسيّة التاريخيّة‪،‬‬ ‫يشهد موجة تط ّو ٍر اليوم‪ .‬تكتشف ‪ Theresa Harold‬األسماء‬ ‫التي ته ّز عرش هذا المجال التقليدي‬

‫ما إن نذكر األزياء بحسب الطلب حتّى تطرأ على بالنا دور األزياء‬ ‫الفرنسيّة التقليديّة وفساتين السهرات المتكلّفة‪ .‬لكن في ساحة‬ ‫األزياء الباريسيّة اليوم‪ ،‬مجموعة من المص ّممين اليافعين الذين‬ ‫ينفخون حيا ًة جديدة في أسبوع األزياء الفاخرة‪ ،‬مبرهنين أنّه‬ ‫بأسلوب جمالي معيّن‬ ‫ليس من الضروري تقييد المعايير الراقية‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫في مجال األزياء‪.‬‬ ‫تصدّرت ‪ Bouchra Jarrar‬العناوين هذا الموسم‬ ‫بصفتها المديرة الفنيّة ال ُمعيّنة حديثاً لقسم المالبس النسائيّة‬ ‫لدى ‪ ،Lanvin‬لكن كسبت هذه المص ّممة المولودة في‬ ‫‪ Cannes‬شهرتها بفضل دار األزياء الذي يحمل إسمها وقد‬ ‫ّأسسته سنة ‪ .2010‬بدأت ‪ Jarrar‬مسيرتها بعرض مجموعاتها في‬ ‫باريس كضيفة في ‪Chambre Syndicale de la Haute‬‬ ‫‪ ،Couture‬وهي الهيئة ِ‬ ‫المنظمة لمجال األزياء الفرنسيّة واألمينة‬ ‫على مصطلح “أزياء فاخرة” الرسمي والمحمي قانونيّاً‪ .‬فانتهى‬ ‫بها المطاف أن حازت لقب مص ّممة أزياء فاخرة في كانون األ ّول‪/‬‬ ‫ديسمبر ‪ ،2013‬وهو إنجاز قلّما يحقّقه المص ّممون‪.‬‬ ‫ال تمنح هيئة ‪ Chambre Syndicale‬هذا الشرف إال‬

‫إلى المص ّممين األكثر مهارة وابتكارا ً الّذين يتو ّجب عليهم االلتزام‬ ‫ببعض الواجبات‪ .‬على المص ّمم أن يبتكر مالبس بحسب طلب‬ ‫خاص ويجري جلسة ٍ‬ ‫قياس واحدة أو أكثر‪ .‬وال ب ّد أن يكون‬ ‫زبون ّ‬ ‫يقل عن‬ ‫لكافّة المص ّممين مشغل في باريس يوظّفون فيه ما ال ّ‬ ‫عشرين شخصاً بدوامٍ كامل‪ .‬على الدار أن يقدّم مجموعتين في‬ ‫األقل وتشمل مالبس‬ ‫كل تض ّم خمسين تصميماً أصيالً على ّ‬ ‫السنة‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫للنهار واللّيل على ح ّد سواء‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ Jarrar‬عن بدايتها لدى ‪ Lanvin‬من خالل المالبس‬ ‫الجاهزة التي ط ّعمتها بأفكا ٍر ورمو ٍز من خ ّط مالبسها‪“ :‬كنت‬ ‫تلف الجسم‬ ‫أستكشف دروب اإلحساس والحميميّة مبتكر ًة مالبس ّ‬ ‫فتكشف بعض التضاريس وتغطّي البعض اآلخر‪ .‬أبحث عن األساس‬ ‫وعن التناغم‪ .‬أ ّحب أ ّن أًص ّمم للمرأة ألع ّرفها إلى نفسها وألرفع من‬ ‫شأنها وأعبر الحدود الفاصلة بين الذكوريّة واألنوثة‪”.‬‬ ‫تتمتّع عالمة ‪ Christian Dior‬بتاريخ حافل باألزياء‬ ‫الراقية‪ .‬قدّمت مفهوم تصميم األزياء بحسب الطلب بطرقٍ‬ ‫متعدّدة من خالل مدراء ابتكاريين متتاليين من دراما ابتكارات‬ ‫‪ John Galliano‬إلى أساليب ‪ Raf Simons‬العصريّة الذي‬ ‫ظهرت أولى مجموعاته الفاخرة في فيلم ‪.Dior and I‬‬ ‫غادر ‪ Simons‬الدار في أواخر سنة ‪ ،2015‬فشكّلت‬ ‫مجموعة ربيع ‪ 2017‬انطالقة المديرة االبتكاريّة الجديدة‬ ‫‪ Maria Grazia Chiuri‬قادم ًة من ‪ .Valentino‬عكست‬ ‫المجموعة هويّة ‪ Dior‬بامتياز عن طريق القطع الضيّقة عند‬ ‫الخصر والتنانير الفضفاضة والسترات ال ُمتقنة‪ ،‬في حين أضفت‬ ‫الخاصة من خالل األنوثة الجليّة في طبقات‬ ‫‪ Chiuri‬لمستها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التول المتعدّدة والتطريز الدقيق‪.‬‬ ‫في موسم األزياء لهذا الربيع‪ ،‬تحدّت بعض أبرز العالمات‬ ‫المفاهيم التقليديّة لألزياء المص ّممة بحسب الطلب‪ .‬لدى‬ ‫‪ Viktor&Rolf‬على سبيل المثال‪ُ ،‬ص ّممت الفساتين القصيرة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫والقمصان وفساتين السهرة من ألوانٍ‬ ‫ونقوش وأشكا ٍل ال تعد وال‬ ‫تُحصى‪ .‬أ ّما لدى ‪ ،Maison Margiela‬فزيّنت وجوه نساء‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫طبقات شفّافة من القماش فوق معاطف‬ ‫بأسلوب ف ّني‬ ‫مرسوم ًة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫وفساتين وغيرها‪ ،‬لتبدو وكأنّها تطفو فوق المالبس‪.‬‬ ‫من الص ّممين اآلخرين الذين برعوا في كسر القيود‬ ‫‪ ،Demna Gvasalia‬الذي لمع إسمه للم ّرة األولى كممثّل‬ ‫لعالمة ‪ .Vetements‬تصدّر المص ّمم الجورجي صفحات األخبار‬ ‫عقب تعيينه المدير الف ّني لدار األزياء التاريخي ‪Balenciaga‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،2015‬عابرا ً الحدود من الرائج إلى العريق‪ .‬ولدى‬ ‫‪ ،Balenciaga‬سطع نجم ‪ Gvasalia‬لقدرته على إحالل‬ ‫التوازن بين أسلوبه الخاص المستوحى من مالبس الشارع‬ ‫واحترامه الفائق لعراقة الدار‪.‬‬ ‫كل مكان‬ ‫أسرت ‪ Vetements‬مخيّلة محبّي األزياء في ّ‬ ‫بفضل قدرتها على دمج الثقافة الراقية بالشعبيّة‪ .‬لذا‪ ،‬عندما‬ ‫حلّت العالمة كضيف في ‪ Chambre Syndicale‬وعرضت‬ ‫أولى مجموعاتها في أسبوع األزياء‪ ،‬لم يكن من المستغرب أن‬ ‫ات ّبعت نمطاً مشابهاً لمجموعاتها الجاهزة‪ ،‬حيث أعادت ابتكار‬ ‫خاصة بـ ‪ .Vetements‬ولربيع‪/‬‬ ‫قطع كالسيكيّة من خالل عدسة ّ‬ ‫صيف ‪ ،2017‬اختار فريق ‪ Vetements‬تقديم مجموعة كاملة‬ ‫من المالبس المص ّممة بالتعاون مع عالمات تجاريّة أخرى‪ ،‬من‬ ‫بدالت رسميّة من ‪ Brioni‬إلى قطع من الدنيم من ‪ Levi’s‬إلى‬ ‫بدالت رياضيّة من ‪ Juicy Couture‬إلى مالبس خارجيّة من‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

SOUVEN I R

GOLD STANDARD Classic French perfumer Atelier des Ors strives to deliver creations that redefine haute parfumerie, combining heritage, expertise and a desire to embrace modernity and poetry. House perfumer Marie Salamagne has chosen gold as the central motif

for all five Atelier des Ors scents, inspired by the the idea that perfume and gold contribute to power and wealth. The pictured scent, Lune Féline, is a symphony of dark, musky vanilla notes, making it an exhilarating smell of temptation. This warm concoction of cinnamon, cardamom, ambergris and precious wood is well suited to

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sultry summer evenings. Why not choose it as your signature fragrance this season? fm Atelier des Ors Lune Féline perfume, 100ml, €225, Jovoy, 4 rue de Castiglione, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 0619, atelierdesors.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

SHOP SU RVEY SHOP, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. SHOP, the definitive guide to global shopping, publishes over three million magazines covering over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

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