SHOP Paris Lux SS18

PARIS | 巴黎 | ПАРИЖ | ‫باريس‬

PARIS Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2018

EXPLORE PARIS: our essential guide to the luxury highlights of Europe’s most sophisticated fashion capital

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 27

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

manufactories. You will nd WEMPE

always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises and in

to discover an abundance of interesting

New York City. Each shop also offers

new items and exclusive special models

service or advice whenever you require

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers.

it, so you can be certain that we will

We look forward to your visit!

Paris 16, rue Royale Tel. +33.1.42 60 21 77 paris@wempe.fr HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID NEW YORK WWW.WEMPE.COM

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EDITOR’S LETTER

Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Copenhagen

捷克 Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lebanon London

Welcome to Paris

Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris Prague Rome Singapore Stockholm Switzerland Чехия /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue

EMMA CHEEVERS

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this infinitely fascinating and romantic European capital. Paris has much to offer, as our guide on page 45 reveals. Readers who appreciate impeccably made jewellery will enjoy our feature on the heritage brands in this field that are innovating for the 21st century (page 30). In this issue we also reveal the Paris retail experiences enticing customers away from online shopping (page 34) and introduce some of the French capital’s top cheese shops.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Paris. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app, which is available now – find all the details in our news section in this issue. Calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

HOP-ON HOP-OFF

BUS TOUR Paris Sightseeing

#OpenTourParis

Open Tour Paris - 13 rue Auber - 75009 Paris

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CONTRIBUTORS

SALLY MCILHONE As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online. globalblue.com

LUCINDA TURNER SHOP’s acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London. She has worked in the fashion departments of various titles, including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire.

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion.

Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications.

ILLUSTRATION: RUI RICARDO - FOLIO ART

RUI RICARDO This season’s cover illustration for the SHOP Paris luxury edition was created by Rui Ricardo, whose other clients include the Wall Street Journal, British Airways and Esquire magazine. It shows the beautiful Tuileries gardens at the height of summer, with the Arc de Triomphe, one of the city’s most famous and distinctive monuments, in the background.

Discover SHOP Paris and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN FINDS IRONY IN EVERYTHING. - Rule 23 -

boggi.com

PARIS | 38 Boulevard des Italiens | Tel. +33 1 402.299.82 | 112 Boulevard Saint Germain | Tel. +33 1 463.306.68

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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Rui Ricardo - Folio Art Production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne, Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Onur Unaltay Artworking assistant Tatjiana Antoniou Editorial intern Hannah Dall Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editors Yangzi Liang, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Senior Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

G LO B A L B L U E F R A N C E Country manager Yan Mortreux Marketing sales manager Marie Laporte Marketing coordinators Luisa Montero, Patrice Simeon Global Blue France, Immeuble Kléber, 103-105 rue Anatole France, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue

*Ne craquez pas sous la pression - Informations: 01 55 27 00 07 - photographie retoucheé

“Lions to me symbolize bravery” - Cara Delevingne Shot in real conditions by David Yarrow at the Kevin Richardson Wildife Sanctuary, Dinokeng, South Africa Discover more on Youtube and on tagheuer.com/cara TAG HEUER CARRERA LADY boutique.tagheuer.com

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CONTENTS

20

PRODUCTS 14

16

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

NEWS

22

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

FEATURES

PARIS GUIDE

30

45

26 34

The Fresh Face Of Fine Jewellery Behind the historic facades of place Vendôme’s jewellery houses, innovation is taking its place alongside tradition. Lucinda Turner discovers the brands that are adapting and thriving The Real Thing The exceptional retail experiences offered by Paris’s most beautiful boutiques show how stores can charm clients away from online shopping, says Sally McIlhone

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris

ESSENTIALS 56

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 57 59 64

中文翻 译 Русский Перевод

‫عريب‬

SOUVENIR 66

The essential item to bring home

EXPERIENCE 40

Gourmet Delights France produces some of the world’s most delectable cheeses and Paris is home to some of its top cheese specialists.

Hannah Lewis samples the wares of the best

Above (clockwise from top): Camille Fournet boutique; Carven shoes; Vanessa Seward, both spring/summer 2018

66 PHOTO: (TOP) VALENTIN FOUGERAY

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PRÊT-À-PORTER & ACCESSOIRES | LONGCHAMP.COM

404, RUE SAINT-HONORÉ | 77, AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES | 21, RUE DU VEUX-COLOMBIER | PARIS

CHECK OUT

STRIPES FOR SUMMER Roger Vivier’s Viv’ bag has become an icon of Parisian design. For spring/summer 2018, the style has been reimagined in a vibrant striped print, inspired by men’s shirting, that is just perfect for summer. The bag is decorated with RV initials that mimic the monogramming on a smart shirt cuff. Featuring the brand’s signature buckle as well as a chic top handle and crossbody strap, it is as elegant as it is practical. Pair with a crisp white shirt and Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

classic denim for a look that is très Parisienne.

Quintessentially French and impossibly chic, what better accessory to pick up during your trip to the City of Light? lt Roger Vivier Viv’ Cabas Mini bag, €1,900, Roger Vivier, 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0085, rogervivier.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50

PA R I S 2 AV E N U E M O N TA I G N E + 3 3 1 4 2898 34 5 PA R I S PA L A I S D E S CO N G R E S N I V E A U - 1 + 3 3 1 4 0 6 8213 0 PA R I S G A L E R I E L A FAY E T T E 3 R D F LO O R 4 0 BO U L E VA R D H A U SSM A N N E S C A DA . COM

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SPOT ON Team a bold dress with classic accessories for a day-to-night look that won’t date

Aurélie Bidermann earrings, €510, Aurélie Bidermann, 14 rue Royale, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 5401, aureliebidermann.com Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-vous watch, €15,400, Jaeger-LeCoultre, 7 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5345 7000, jaeger-lecoultre.com

Valentino Garavani bag, €1,850, Valentino, 273 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 8482 4295, valentino.com

Tasaki ring, €2,780, Tasaki, Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 3300, tasaki-global.com

Sportmax dress, €675, Max Mara, 408-410 rue Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 7567, sportmax.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

Christian Louboutin shoes, €695, Christian Louboutin, 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, 0800 945804 (within France), christianlouboutin.com

S H O P | 17

PREPPY CHIC A neutral palette of brown and taupe will see you from spring to summer with effortless style

Burberry card holder, €175, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com

PHOTOS: (SHIRT) JASPAL BHAMBRA; (BAG) © BALLY; (SHOES) PAOLO MARCHES; (GLASSES) ELISABETTA MARES

Thomas Pink shirt, €180, Thomas Pink, 19 rue François, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 7200, thomaspink.com

Wempe Zeitmeister watch, €3,475, Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com

Ray-Ban glasses, €152, Alain Afflelou, 20 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4274 4242, rayban.com

Bally bag, €1,295, Bally, 60 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 5898, bally.fr

Fratelli Rossetti shoes, €640, Fratelli Rossetti, 237 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 2660, fratellirossetti.com

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Ami trousers, €240, Ami, 14 rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)9 8244 4020, amiparis.com

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HELLO, YELLOW Choose an ensemble in a sunshine shade for a cheerful day whatever the weather

Jil Sander earrings, €190, Jil Sander, 56 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4495 0670, jilsander.com

Atelier Swarovski by Mary Katrantzou ring, €199, Swarovski, 146 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 1380, atelierswarovski.com Longchamp top, €1,220, Longchamp, 271 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4316 0016, longchamp.com

Marc Jacobs bag, €320, Marc Jacobs, 368 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 1130, marcjacobs.com

Aperlai shoes, €490, Aperlai, 28 rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)9 5064 5951, aperlai.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

Escada skirt, €499, Escada, 2 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4289 8345, escada.com

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 12% Find out more at globalblue.com

SHOP WINDOW

Over 70 years after its inception in 1945, French heritage brand Camille Fournet continues to innovate, launching a new boutique on rue Cambon to coincide with a brand refresh. Specialising in leather goods, watch straps and gloves, the label is renowned worldwide for true excellence in craftsmanship and an understanding of understated luxury. Soft pastel colours and custom wood pieces create a sense of calm Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

in the store: the perfect setting in which to explore Camille Fournet’s chic creations.

Minimalist handbags, featuring clean lines and block colours, are particularly covetable.

For something truly special, speak to the team about creating a made-to-measure piece. hl Camille Fournet, 5 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 7376, camillefournet.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50

PHOTO: VALENTIN FOUGERAY

LEATHER HEAVEN

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PERFECT VIEW This season sees the launch of a new eyewear collaboration between Paco Rabanne and Super. The line comprises four sunglasses styles, which use Super’s Status model as a starting point. The designs (from €290) are characterised by a sleek metallic look, whether you opt for a black, gold or chrome finish. An additional standout style incorporates the Paco Rabanne symbol on the lens itself: in a unique twist, the fashion house’s logo can be seen from the exterior but not by the wearer. All four Super/Paco Rabanne styles are finished with co-branding and packaged in elegant monochrome boxes.

A minimalist yet statement look makes these eyewear styles a must-have accessory for spring/summer. grc Paco Rabanne, 12 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 2226, pacorabanne.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50

IN THE SWIM Season after season, Vilebrequin swimwear captures the colourful essence of Saint-Tropez, the town where it was established more than 40 years ago. The brand’s spring/summer 2018 Luxe-Primitive-Nomad collection is themed around primitive art, from the earliest cave paintings to the work of American artist Jean-Michel Basquiat – motifs include turtles, feathers and a fire dance. The season also sees the brand focus strongly on its womenswear line, including bikinis, one-piece swimsuits and beach-friendly accessories. The label’s ever-popular father-son, mother-daughter ranges let all generations sport matching prints made of the same durable, fast-drying fabrics.

Vilebrequin’s stylish, tailored swimwear is made for the whole family to enjoy. rre Vilebrequin, 5 rue du Vieux Colombier, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4222 7583, vilebrequin.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54 Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

S H O P | 23

THE RYKIEL MANIFESTO 1968 was a momentous date for Sonia Rykiel, as it was the year the designer founded her label and opened her first boutique. In 2018 the brand celebrates the 50 years since these beginnings and artistic director Julie de Libran pays homage to the label’s legacy – while anchoring the brand in contemporary times.

Under the title of Manifesto, the house is staging a series of events spanning culture, art and literature – and has launched a special capsule collection for women. Combining slogans, in reference to the brand’s ties to literature, and a play on the initials SR, the playful collection includes denim, knits and T-shirts. Accessorise the look with fun bags and card holders decorated with the symbolic 1968 date and the address of the brand’s flagship. grc Sonia Rykiel, 175 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4954 6060, soniarykiel.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

PHOTO: (LEFT) RICHARD BORD/GETTY IMAGES

RTW FROM RALPH & RUSSO Known for years for bespoke pieces, London-based fashion house Ralph & Russo has designed its first ready-to-wear collection for spring/summer 2018. The collection reinterprets wardrobe staples from the little black dress to the tuxedo jacket using innovative techniques, presenting silhouettes for daytime and evening occasions. Oversized outerwear is taken to new levels, as seen in a jacket of double-sided silk scuba. Touches of red, electric blue, florals and metallics bring colour to this standout collection for women.

Be sure to book in advance, as the Paris store is strictly by appointment only. rre Ralph & Russo, 29 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +44 (0)20 8878 5399, ralphandrusso.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 49

globalblue.com

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GOING GREEN Master & Dynamic recently introduced two new colour options to its headphone offering: olive green and camouflage. The premium leather on the MW60 wireless over-ear headphones, the MW50 wireless on-ear headphones and the MH40 over-ear headphones (pictured) has been updated with the new colourways, finished in both cases with black metal details. Known for premium products made of excellent materials, Master & Dynamic can be relied on for rich sound quality, functional design and stylish looks. It’s hardly surprising that this high-end audio brand from New York has gained an international following. grc Le 66, 66 avenue des ChampsÉlysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5353 3380, masterdynamic.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48

The Paul Smith store in the city’s Marais district was once an art gallery, and is fittingly designed with varied objects from the eponymous designer’s personal collection. The interior reflects the brand’s famously colourful aesthetic, with clothing and accessories for men and women placed next to Lewis Leathers biker jackets and vintage music posters. Head to the store to discover the vibrant spring/ summer 2018 collection, which takes inspiration from Paul Smith’s trips to New York in the 1970s and Northern Soul nights in England. Leather, tote bags and tuxedos with satin lapels are enlivened with floral and aquatic motifs, while the ocean print also appears on performance and outerwear. rre Paul Smith, 24 rue Pastourelle, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4370 0050, paulsmith.com Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

PHOTO: (LEFT) FRANCK BELONCLE

STATEMENT STORE

publicisdrugstore 133 AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES, PARIS

,

26 | N E W S

A BRILLIANT UPDATE The Tag Heuer Link watch has been given an update, 30 years after it was first introduced.

Defined by its distinctive bracelet with S-shaped links, the Tag Heuer Link was first revised in 2016; this year it gets a luxurious new look, thanks to a diamond bezel. The ring surrounding the blue dial of the Tag Heuer Link 41mm (€4,700) is set with 54 diamonds, while the bracelet has been cleverly integrated into the case for a flowing look and comfortable fit. The timepiece features an automatic Calibre 5 movement. For those seeking extra sparkle, Tag Heuer has also designed an additional Link style with diamonds on the first three rows of the bracelet. grc Tag Heuer, 104 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5856 2195, tagheuer.com

IN BRIEF This season’s ultimate travel companion is the new SHOP TAX FREE app. The app can direct users to their favourite stores in Paris, quickly calculate tax free savings and track the progress of tax refunds in real time. The app is available to download for free in English, Chinese and Russian

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48

SPOTLIGHT ON: VANESSA SEWARD Vanessa Seward’s label was launched in 2014 following the designer’s successful career working for prestigious names, notably Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Tom Ford at Yves Saint Laurent – she also created capsule collections for French label APC. Less than five years after being founded, the eponymous brand has acquired an international following and already counts three boutiques in Paris and one in London, the two cities where the designer grew up. In keeping with the brand’s elegant, feminine aesthetic, Vanessa Seward revisits the French Riviera of the 80s for spring/summer 2018: stonewashed denim, Bermuda shorts and floaty dresses, worn with golden shell-shaped earrings and bags, come together in a collection that radiates glamour and attitude. grc Vanessa Seward, 10 rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 8565 8889, vanessaseward.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50 Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

N E W S | 27

SET FOR SUMMER Inspired by Erwin Blumenfeld, Berluti’s spring/summer 2018 collection delivers a summer palette reworked to replicate the nuanced, experimental work of the renowned American-German photographer. Key pieces include a perfecto-style jacket with raw leather seams and a leather bomber jacket. Silk recurs throughout the collection, seen in tank tops and bands adorning trousers. Discover a combination of textures and contrasting themes in creative director Haider Ackermann’s second collection for the brand, which includes cashmere coats light enough for summer, sportswear features that add a more casual element, nubuck slippers and versatile bags. rre Berluti, 9 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 5786, berluti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50

LEADING LIGHTS The bond between Pablo Picasso and ST Dupont goes back a long way; in 1962 the artist engraved three of the French brand’s lighters with his signature line drawings.

This year, in celebration of its 145th anniversary, ST Dupont revisits this very special relationship with the launch of a limited-edition collection depicting Picasso’s Profil de Femme from 1965. ST Dupont’s artisans have etched the drawing on the Ligne 2 and Slim 7 lighter models, as well as the Line D fountain pen, a cigarette case and a passport holder. Across all of these products, a black background serves as the perfect canvas for Picasso’s elegant work. grc ST Dupont, 58 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 0839, st-dupont.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 49 globalblue.com

PHOTO RETOUCHÉE

CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE 99 RUE DE RIVOLI - PARIS

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Above: Messika by Gigi Hadid collection

THE FRESH FACE OF FINE JEWELLERY

Behind the historic facades of place Vendôme’s jewellery houses, innovation is taking its place alongside tradition. Lucinda Turner discovers the brands that are adapting and thriving

T

he elegance, grandeur and historic appeal of place Vendôme are hard to surpass in any other shopping destination. This stunning square conjures up images of La Belle Epoque, lavish parties at the Ritz in the Roaring Twenties and, of course, noblemen and women on the hunt for a timeless jewel to be passed down for generations. However, look behind the enduring facades of the square’s long-established jewellery houses and you may see a change occurring.

The historic jewellery brands of the first arrondissement are shifting gears as the 21st century progresses, taking the sparkling stones and precious metals that define one of the wealthiest areas of Paris and transforming them into pieces that are contemporary and fresh. While grand necklaces still await the 57

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discerning customer searching for old-world glamour, the windows dance with delicate sparkle and modern motifs, luring in the fine jewellery connoisseur of 2018.

The house of Boucheron has stood at 26 place Vendôme for 125 years. Frédéric Boucheron was the first jeweller to set up shop here, and chose this particular corner of the square as it attracts the most sunlight; that special light still shines through the collections today. To mark the house’s 160th anniversary (it was founded 35 years prior to moving to place Vendôme) Boucheron has launched the Quatre Clou de Paris collection, a reincarnation of its iconic Quatre line targeted at a younger customer. The delicate diamonds sit in modern, almost chunky, geometric settings on a thin gold bangle that has a wearable, everyday appeal. The Quatre range is written into Boucheron’s DNA, but the clear, understated aesthetic of this latest addition is a revelation from a house known for its opulent designs.

Another historic house seeking the youth vote is Boucheron’s place Vendôme neighbour Van Cleef & Arpels. Rather than modernising a design for a younger audience, Van Cleef & Arpels has rediscovered a classic archive collection that was originally intended for a more youthful consumer and brought it back

into circulation. The Lucky Animals range is a 2018 interpretation of the 1954 La Boutique collection, which showcases a jovial side of this grand house. Nine animal clips, created in onyx, tiger’s eye, malachite, lapis lazuli and carnelian, offer an accessible price point and a perfect introduction to the brand for younger customers. The timeless appeal of these versatile, charming, almost childlike pieces stems from expert craftsmanship.

While some houses are focusing on product to draw a younger clientele, others are thinking more widely about the jewellery business. Chaumet, once jeweller to Napoleon, is showcasing its glistening jewels in video campaigns across its website and social media.

One of these beautifully shot films features a young couple following in the footsteps of Napoleon’s wife Josephine, running through a dream-like version of Paris to a modern soundtrack. The female character

Above (from top): Boucheron Quatre Clou de Paris bangle; the brand’s boutique in place Vendôme

S H O P | 33

PHOTOS: (TOP) © OLIVER ASTROLOGO; (BOTTOM) ALEXANDRE ROBERDET

wears her diamonds with a leather jacket and subsequently a masculine tuxedo, while later in the film the couple race around the first arrondissement at dawn in a fun and carefree manner that feels perfectly Parisian. The characters wear both fine and high jewellery and break down the stuffy stereotype that pieces this special must be kept in a vault and only be worn by ‘grown ups’.

A further addition to Chaumet’s modern approach comes in the form of the You Me Paris app, created in collaboration with Parisian city expert My Little Paris. The app offers guided tours to hidden parts of the city while teaching the user about the history of the brand and how heavily the city influences its creations.

It’s not just the old guard which is keen to appeal to a younger market. Messika, a fine jewellery brand based just off place Vendôme that launched only 12 years ago, has turned to global superstar Gigi Hadid to create a capsule collection. ‘When I founded Messika, women were only used to buying diamonds for special occasions, such as getting engaged or to wear with traditional eveningwear,’ remarks founder Valerie Messika. ‘I really wanted to change this idea and break down any age or style barriers.

With the Messika by Gigi Hadid collection I wanted to attract millennials. A millennial client who invests in our entry-level pieces will hopefully grow with the brand over time and build their Messika collection over the years.’

The pieces range in price from a few hundred euros to several hundred thousand, but there’s no doubt that they have all been created with a modern consumer in mind.

The diamonds are set in edgy, contemporary chokers and ear cuffs, translating expert skills and precious stones into items that certainly don’t belong in a vault.

Fine jewellery was once the preserve of the nobility who frequented the historic houses of place Vendôme; clients with an invitation to a private salon and years of brand loyalty behind them. Today jewellery houses, both new and old, are adapting and changing to meet demand from a youthful market with money to spend.

What better place to spend it than here?

Above (from top): hummingbird clip from the Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals collection; Chaumet’s You Me Paris app offers guided tours to hidden parts of Paris; Messika by Gigi Hadid choker

Above: Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme

PHOTO: © LOUIS VUITTON MALLETIER/STEPHANE MURATET

THE REAL THING

The exceptional retail experiences offered by Paris’s most beautiful boutiques show how stores can charm clients away from online shopping, says Sally McIlhone

36 | F E AT U R E S

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ARTWORK: © FARHAD MOSHIRI; PHOTO: (BOTTOM) DANIEL MEASE

T

he popularity of online shopping has dented the supremacy of the bricks-andmortar store – yet it is impossible to put a price on the experience of visiting Paris’s most spectacular boutiques. No computer screen can convey the feel of an exclusive garment, the aroma of a bespoke scent or the marvel of leather being worked into a beautiful piece of luggage before your very eyes. Increasingly, it’s this immersive element that brands must incorporate into their stores to give the consumer added value on their shopping trip.

Whether this takes the form of unmissable exhibitions and thrilling product launches to attract visitors, or a boutique with a space dedicated to showcasing the brand’s artisanship to a discerning clientele, Paris’s most appealing flagships are finding new and intriguing ways to charm visitors through their doors.

Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme, which opened towards the end of 2017, heralds the return of the storied French brand to its spiritual home. In 1854, trunk-maker extraordinaire Louis Vuitton opened his first store at 4 rue Neuve-des-Capucines, just moments from the celebrated place Vendôme.

Among the 340 trunk makers working in the city, it was Vuitton who caught the eye of Empress Eugénie, the first in a long line of celebrated clients, and the rest, as the saying goes, is history.

The two elegant former townhouses that now comprise the boutique were conceived by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, who also designed the palace of Versailles. Architect Peter Marino, a favourite among luxury brands, has returned the interiors to their former glory, restoring the five-metre-high ceilings

on the first floor. Art lovers will admire the 30-plus handpicked artworks on display, many especially commissioned for this grande dame of boutiques.

Across the four floors of Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme, visitors can discover the brand’s full product portfolio, from ready-towear to haute joaillerie, interior design items and leather goods, allowing all those who enter to immerse themselves in the world of Louis Vuitton. In addition, Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme offers a selection of beautiful products that will delight brand aficionados – examples include the 1.45-metre madeto-order high-jewellery trunk or the truly spectacular Tambour Moon Tourbillon

Above (from top): Lost in Thought (2017) by Farhad Moshiri, one of the artworks on display in the place Vendôme Louis Vuitton store; the boutique’s VIP Appartement

38 | F E AT U R E S

them to create their own individual fragrance profile. Bespoke fragrances can be made here, with customisable bottles giving guests the opportunity to pick their preferred packaging.

For those simply looking to replace a favourite Guerlain fragrance, the in-store perfume fountains let customers refill their bee bottles (the design used by the house since 1853), reducing waste and helping the environment.

Guerlain’s Iris Ganache perfume, conceived by Thierry Wasser in 2007, was exclusively reissued at the rue Saint-Honoré boutique. Fragrance devotees will be rewarded for stepping away from their laptops and into this elite scent emporium.

Above (from top): Louis Vuitton made-to-order high-jewellery trunk; Guerlain’s perfume bottles are customisable at its store on rue Saint-Honoré; Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève watch

PHOTOS: (TOP) MARIUS W HANSEN; (MIDDLE) © GUERLAIN

Volant Poinçon de Genève watch. VIP clients can retire to the Appartement area to view Louis Vuitton’s offering in complete privacy. If this isn’t enough to entice customers, the store is also home to two ateliers which highlight the brand’s extraordinary levels of craftsmanship.

Gemstone connoisseurs can marvel at the high jewellery workshop, while the Atelier Rare & Exceptionnel allows elite clients to preview remarkable pieces and have these adapted to their specific requirements by the house’s exacting artisans.

Perfume house Guerlain, another timehonoured French brand with roots in place Vendôme, also opened a store in the area in late 2017, at 356 rue Saint-Honoré. The boutique is home to a fragrance library of 110 scents and a ‘perfume organ’ that provides visitors with a digital consultation, allowing

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PHOTO: (BOTTOM LEFT) © GUERLAIN

Abandon your computer and discover the magical world of Paris’s best boutiques

Guerlain’s Paris flagship on the Champs-Élysées is similarly captivating and incorporates a spectacularly designed store – Peter Marino’s handiwork once again – as well as L’Institut Guerlain spa and Le 68 Guy Martin restaurant. Once you have your personalised fragrance from the rue SaintHonoré branch, come here for a Made to Measure treatment and a delicious dinner.

Kenzo was more recently established than the Vuitton and Guerlain powerhouses, and its latest Parisian outpost, located in the Marais district, targets the trend-conscious younger clients who have snapped up the label’s logo jumpers and Kalifornia bags in their droves.

The space aims to tap into the desires of a new generation by offering something unique, new and different – a curated edit of Kenzo clothing unlike that in any of the brand’s other stores.

Fans can also purchase vintage Kenzo pieces here, as well as items from the archive-inspired La Collection Memento capsule range. In addition, a space at the front of the shop hosts exhibitions, product launches and events.

Louis Vuitton, Guerlain and Kenzo are not the only names to prove that the store can still trump the screen – if you are seeking a truly Parisian shopping experience, step away from your computer and discover the magical world of the city’s best boutiques

Above (clockwise from top): Kenzo; the store’s interior; Guerlain’s rue Saint-Honoré boutique

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GOURMET DELIGHTS France produces some of the world’s most delectable cheeses and Paris is home to some of its top cheese specialists. Hannah Lewis samples the wares of the best

France is one of the world’s most famous makers – and exporters – of fine cheeses, so it will come as no surprise that Paris is home to a wealth of excellent fromageries (cheese shops).

While the city offers an abundance of gourmet stores specialising in foods of all sorts, there is a particularly French feel about great cheese, and in perusing varieties both familiar and new in a space dedicated to brie, reblochon, camembert and many more.

Visitors to Paris should never be dissuaded from popping into every fromagerie they stumble across, or making the most of the city’s many markets. However, these establishments are connoisseur-approved and are guaranteed to offer some of the best cheeses the French nation – and the world – has to offer. globalblue.com

ANDROUET In 1909, Henri Androuet opened his first fromagerie in Paris, aiming to share the rich variety of French regional cheeses with the people of its capital. To this day, specialists from Androuet travel around France to discover the best cheeses from every region, favouring small producers and farmers, and promoting cheese made with the most exacting methods and the highest-quality ingredients. The variety and standards at the rue Mouffetard store are exceptional; take the opportunity to try something new.

Androuet, 134 rue Mouffetard, 75005 Paris, +33 (0)1 4587 8505, androuet.com

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JOUANNAULT seasonal specials: clients will find something new with each visit. If you are entertaining, ask the team for an expertly balanced cheeseboard.

If you’re looking for a souvenir, Jouannault will vacuum-pack your cheeses for a safe (and odour-free) journey.

Jouannault, 39 rue de Bretagne, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4278 5261, fromagerie-jouannault.fr

BARTHÉLEMY Rumoured to be the fromagerie of choice of both the French president and prime minister, Barthélemy is undoubtedly one of the most prestigious specialists in the city. The tiny shop is filled to bursting with endless varieties of cheese, as well as a selection of excellent accompaniments: wine, preserves and biscuits. Be sure to ask the owner, Nicole Barthélemy, for her recommendations, as the selection changes regularly to include seasonal delicacies.

Barthélemy, 51 rue de Grenelle, Paris 75007, +33 (0)1 4222 8224 globalblue.com

PHOTOS: (TOP) KHAWKINS33 CC BY 2.0; (BOTTOM) KAREN BLUMBERG CC BY-NC

Family business Jouannault is committed to providing a varied selection of the best French cheeses. After travelling the country to discover the best on the market, the family then refines the cheeses in its own maturing cellar. The fromagerie is known for house specialities including brie au bleu et noix (a brie enhanced with nuts and a blue layer), and also for its

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LAURENT DUBOIS Master cheesemaker Laurent Dubois is acknowledged as one of France’s finest, and his three Parisian boutiques display his intense passion for raw milk cheeses. Dubois comes from a family with generations of experience in the field of fine fromage, and as a maker as well as a seller he is well placed to select the best varieties from the best producers across the

country. Be sure to sample one of the powerful blue cheeses on offer, and look out for the Dubois selection of rare varieties.

Laurent Dubois, 97-99 rue Saint Antoine, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4887 1710, fromageslaurentdubois.fr

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) TRANSGOURMET FRANCE CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

QUATREHOMME Award-winning cheesemaker Quatrehomme is known for its speciality cheeses, so be sure to ask about these when visiting the charming boutique on rue de Sèvres. They are seasonal and sell out fast; examples might include a marinated Burgundy cheese made with Japanese whisky in a traditional smokehouse, or a Saint-Marcellin variety coated with sliced roasted almonds, honey and lemon. The makers are experts in flavour combinations, so you’re guaranteed to discover something completely new and completely delicious here.

Quatrehomme, 62 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4734 3345, quatrehomme.fr

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PARIS GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations. Discover one of the best places to pick up luxury Parisian beauty products, eat in a unique restaurant with a very fashionable owner – and climb to the top of the Eiffel Tower (pictured), one of the most iconic landmarks in the world. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.

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Ralph & Russo Discover this famous fashion house’s ready-to-wear offering for spring/summer 2018.

Ralph & Russo, 29 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +44 (0)20 8878 5399,

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Barthélemy Buy a delicious souvenir in this top cheese shop.

Barthélemy, 51 rue de Grenelle, Paris 75007, +33 (0)1 4222 8224

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Messika A collaboration with model-of-the-moment Gigi Hadid means this Parisian brand is helping change the traditional face of fine jewellery.

Messika, 259 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7039 1800,

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Buly 1803 This beautiful apothecary-style store is filled with products you’ll want to take home.

Officine Universelle Buly, 6 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, +(0)1 4329 0250, buly1803.com

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ROUGE ABSOLU Bridging the gap between fashion and the decorative arts, Rouge Absolu’s newly opened design studio store is located on the north tip of the artistic rue des SaintsPères, a stone’s throw from the Left Bank of the Seine. Founded by interior and furniture designer Géraldine Prieur, the store is home to a variety of elegant homeware pieces and accessories. Scarves, throw cushions and clutch bags decorated in graphic, colourful 70s-inspired prints sit alongside larger, sculptural furniture and lighting designs – this is the perfect place to find a little bit of Paris to take back home.

Rouge Absolu, 3 rue des Saint-Pères, 75006 Paris, +44 (0)1 4261 6161, rougeabsolu.com

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TARA JARMON ANNE FONTAINE GUERLAIN HERVE CHAPELIE R

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ROGER VIVIER ● ROGER VIVIER ● P.14LANCÔME ●

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LANVIN LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROSSI ● CARITA ● LA BAGAGER IE ● P.27 BERLU TI ● MONCL ER ● PANERAI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SARTORE ● SMITH ● PAUL GABBANA & DOLCE MIU MIU ● AUDEMAR S PIGUET ●

CHANEL ● ● CHANEL TOD’S ● ● TOD’S CARTIER ● CARTIER ●

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VOLTAIRE & VOLTAIRE ZADIG & ● ZADIG ● JITROIS ● JITROIS ● LAURENT SAINT LAURENT ● SAINT ● SALOMON YVES SALOMON ● YVES ● ARAMIS ● ARAMIS ● BLOCH ● BLOCH ● ASHIDA JUN ASHIDA ● JUN ● LAURENT SAINT LAURENT ● SAINT ● BOUCHERON ● BOUCHERON ●

● 55 HUMBERT & POYET ● CROISETTE ● BURBERRY BURBERRY ● ● BRUNELLO BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CUCINELLI ● ● COMME DAMIR DOMA ● DES GARCONS ● MOSCHINO MOSCHINO ● ● HOGAN HOGAN ● ● ERMENEGI ERMENEGILDO LDO ZEGNA ● ZEGNA ● LEONARD LEONARD ● ● SALVATOR SALVATOREE FERRAGAM ● FERRAGAMOO

FEMM E LANVINN FEMME ● LANVI ● PERLA LA PERLA ● LA ● NO SCERV IN O ERMAN ER MANNO ● INOVENETA SCERVGA ● BOTTE ● V EN ETA BOT T EGA ● LORO PIANA ● PIANA LORO NES ● LONGI ● PRADA ● ● PRADA INKO ● PPINKO ● GUCCI ● GUCCI ●

HERMÈS ● HERMÈS ●

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Global Blue Retailer

● DIOR ● CLERGERIE CHANTAL ● JO MALONE THOMAS ● ● MAC COSMOPARIS ● ● BONPOINT ● MONIES MAJESTIC FILATURES ● ● STELLA LUNA PENHALIGON’S ● ● STONE ISLAND ● SATELLITE FRAGONARD ● ● APRIATI PEUTEREY ● ● SEQUOIA LA PRAIRIE ● ● PARABOOT

VILEBREQUIN ● LYUBOV ● MICHAEL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● MULBERRY ● VALENTINO ●

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Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

Rue Saint-Honoré West

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OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN In summer 2017, Danish luxury jewellery brand Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen opened its first Parisian boutique, in the city’s famous rue Saint-Honoré shopping area. The new flagship store is located between rue Saint-Honoré and the Tuileries gardens. Visitors can explore the brand’s collections and discover the Danish fine jeweller’s passion for craftsmanship, unique design and laid-back bohemian style, all of which have made it one of the world’s most covetable luxury Scandinavian brands.

Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, 4 rue du 29 Juillet, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4508 1925, olelynggaard.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50

RALPH’S The aptly named Ralph’s, Ralph Lauren’s restaurant on Paris’s historic Left Bank, was the American fashion designer’s first restaurant opening in Europe. With an enticing blend of authentic Parisian décor and distinctively American cuisine, it has become one of the city’s most fashionable spots. Drawing inspiration from Lauren’s celebrated Polo Bar in New York, Ralph’s extensive cocktail menu includes classics such as the Ridgway Margarita, inspired by the designer’s own ranch in Colorado, the Moscow Mule and the Vesper Martini, making it the perfect place to relax and unwind after a long day exploring the city.

Ralph’s, 173 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4477 7600, ralphlaurenstgermain.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

Rue du Boissy D'Anglas

Rue du Malesherbes CROCKETT ● AND JONES

● SIA NINE WEST ●

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SY D'ANGL RUE BOIS

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RUE DU FA U B OU RG SAI N T-HONORÉ

globalblue.com

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Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine, Rue Royale, Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe

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Ladurée ● TOM FORD

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AUDEMARS PIGUET ● HEURGON ● BONPOINT ● ST LOUIS ● ISSEY MIYAKE ● BERNARDAUD ● LALIQUE ● CHRISTOFLE ● J L COQUET ● MAXIM'S ●

RU E ROYA L E

VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●

MAISON ● DE FAMILLE

GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI ● VERTU

ESCALES ●

DIOR ● LE VILLAGE ROYALE ● ● NAPAPIJRI CHANEL ● ● EMLING APC ●

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Place de la Madeleine

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● LA MAROQUIN ERIE PARISIENNE ● EKYOG ● CLAIRVUE OPTIQUE ● NATALYS ● LE BOURGET ● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX ● WINONA ● EMA PIAZI ● THE STORE ● GANTS HELION ● CHAVANEL ● CAROLL ● INDIES ● PALAIS DE THES ● YVES THURIES ● LE CREUSET ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E S WA RFA U C E ● ● ● O D OT

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MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● COLOMBINE ● SABON ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● CHARLES COTONAY ● SOPHIE FLORE ● EMLING ● AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●

MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ● MARIAGE FRERES ● CAVIAR KASPIA ●

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DEVERNOIS ●

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RU E VOLNEY

GUERLAIN ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●

Global Blue Refund Office

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Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO

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MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● ALANGE & SÖHNE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● POIRAY ●

MAUBOUSSIN ● GARLAND ● CARTIER ● MELLERIO ● TTF HAUTE JOAILLERIE ● PIAGET ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● IWC ● AMIN KADER ● BUCCELLATI ● BULGARI ● BAUMER ●

BULY 1803 After ceasing trading for almost a century, one of city’s oldest beauty brands has returned to the pinnacle of Parisian luxury living. L’Officine Universelle Buly 1803, founded over two centuries ago, was once Paris’s leading beauty emporium. It has been reborn as one of the world’s most exciting beauty brands, offering new formulations based on the recipes used to make original Buly products. Inside the brand’s store on rue Bonaparte in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, furnished with traditional handcarved wooden cabinets, visitors feel as though they have been transported back to 19th-century Paris.

Explore the brand’s collection of creams, lotions, powders, clays and oils designed to embellish the skin, alongside perfumes, beauty accessories and a range of home fragrances, all displayed in the brand’s beautiful heritage-inspired packaging.

Officine Universelle Buly, 6 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, +(0)1 4329 0250, buly1803.com

Hotel

SCHIAPARELLI ● I ● ● ● N ER H IA TI IT M AR EN DA C Z Ritz Paris

GRAFF ●

RUE DE LA PAIX

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SELECTED STORES IN RITZ PARIS: Concept Store Colombo Via Della Spiga Tasaki

54 | PA R I S G U I D E

Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle

● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER

ISABEL MARANT ●

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ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● CAREL ● ●L DU PAREIL AU MÊME ● ● D ODIN HUGO BOSS ● ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E

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BERLUTI ● ALAIN FIGARET ● CYRILLUS ● LE TANNEUR ● BIBA ●

Global Blue Retailer

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Le Bon March é

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 55

Musée Des Arts Décoratifs Visitors to Paris who appreciate the decorative arts should not miss the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. The museum is divided across three major sites in Paris, including the Rohan and Marsan wings of the Louvre.

From March 2018, the museum will host Margiela: the Hermès Years, an exhibition themed around the works of designer Martin Margiela during his time at the helm of the famous French fashion house – definitely a retrospective to catch. lesartsdecoratifs.fr

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TRANSLATIONS

中文翻译 30: THE FRESH FACE OF FINE JEWELLERY 高级珠宝的新面貌 在 旺多姆广场上一家家历史 悠久的珠 宝 店背后，创新正在与传统悄然相融。 Lucinda Turner 带 您了解变化 和成长 中的品牌 没有哪 个购物 场所 可以 和典雅 恢 宏、历史 悠久 的旺多姆广场相媲 美。气 势宏伟的广场 令人回 想起电 影《美 好 年 代》（La Belle Epoque）中的 场 景，以 及喧 腾的二十 年 代中那些在丽兹饭 店 举办的豪 华 派 对，当然 还有贵族 人士 争相选购 经典珠宝以流传 给后人的情 景。然而，在 这 些 历经 许 多岁月的店面背后，您会 看到变化 正在 这 里悄然 发 生。 进 入21世 纪，位于巴黎第一区的各 家 老牌 珠宝 店纷 纷 开始转变方向，把曾经 象征 着巴黎 最富 裕街区的闪亮宝石和珍 贵金 属制作成令人 耳目一 新的新潮 作品。一方面，高贵 奢华 的项 链 依旧在静 候 迷 恋 昔日辉煌 的 挑 剔买 家；另一 方面，橱 窗中陈列着 精 致闪耀、充满 现代 特色 的珠宝作品，吸引着2018年高级 珠宝品鉴 家的 眼球。 宝诗龙（Boucheron）屹 立在旺多姆广场26 号已 经有125年之久。Frédéric Boucheron是入 驻 旺多姆广场的珠宝商第一人，他 将店面设在 了广场上阳光 最充沛的一隅；如 今，那独特的 光 线依旧令 该品牌 的珠宝作品熠熠生 辉。为庆 祝 成 立160周年（品牌 创建于搬 迁 至旺多姆广 上图：Messika by Gigi Hadid 珠宝系列

场前 35年），宝诗龙 着眼于 年 轻 顾客，推出了 Quatre Clou de Paris系列，重 新 诠 释 经典的 Quatre系列。精雕 细 琢 的钻石镶嵌在时 髦 现代、 乃至有几分 粗 犷的几 何造 型中，搭配 纤 细的纯 金手 镯，非常适合日常佩 戴。Quatre系列早已深 植于宝诗龙的品牌 精 髓，而这 款 新作更以纯粹、 低调的审 美 风 格彰显了品牌引以为傲 的奢华 设 计。 与宝诗龙共 处 旺多姆广场的梵克 雅宝（Van Cleef & Arpels）是另一家寻求年 轻 人青 睐 的品牌 世 家。梵克 雅宝并未将 作品现代化 来 取悦年 轻 一 代，而是 从 经典系列中挖 掘出原 本 就 是为年 轻群 体设 计的作品，让它们重 获 新生。2018年 推出的 Lucky Animals系列即是1954年 La Boutique系列 的重 新演绎，它展现了这家尊贵卓越 的品牌欢快 而灵动的一面。9枚动物造 型 胸 针取 材缟 玛瑙、 虎睛 石、孔雀石、青金石和红 玉髓 等，价格亲民， 是 年 轻 顾客理 想的入门作品。这 些用途 广泛、魅 力无限、充满 童 趣的经典作品均出自大师 级 工匠 之手。 有的品牌忙着推出吸引年 轻群 体的作品，另 一些品牌则正在 积极谋 划 珠宝产业的全 局。拿破 仑的御用珠宝商尚美巴黎（Chaumet）就 在 官网 和 社 交 媒 体上以 宣传视 频 展 示熠熠生 辉的珠宝 首饰。其中一 部唯美 短 片 讲述了一对年 轻 爱人 追 随拿破仑 妻 子约瑟芬的脚 步，在时尚的配 乐中穿 越 梦 幻 般 的巴黎。女主角身穿皮夹克，佩 戴钻石 首饰，后来则身着男士礼服。在短 片的后半部分， 男女主人公在 黎明时分的第一区 无忧 无虑 地 追 逐嬉 戏，这一 幕独具巴黎 格调。两人都 佩 戴 着 精 致的高级 珠宝，打 破了稀 世 珍宝必 须慎重保管并 且 只能由“稳 重的成 年人”佩 戴的成 见。 尚美巴黎另一大紧跟潮流的举 措 就 是 推出 You Me Paris（你、我、巴黎）手机 应 用，与巴黎 专业城 市 指南My Little Paris（我的小巴黎）合

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作。该手机 应 用为用户提 供巴黎城中隐 秘之 地 的导览，同时 讲述品牌 的辉煌 历史，以 及巴黎 给其作品带来的 深 刻影响。 竞 相博 取年 轻 人青 睐 的并不只有 珠宝世 家。坐落于旺多姆广场附近、仅创立于12年 前的 高级 珠宝品牌 Messika就向国际巨星Gigi Hadid 抛出橄 榄 枝，邀请她创作了一 个胶 囊 系列。“创 办Messika之初，女 性常常只会为特 殊场 合购买 钻石首饰，比如订婚或 为了搭配传 统的晚 礼 服。”创始人Valerie Messika如是说 道，“我 非常 想 改变 这 种想法，打 破年 龄或 风 格上 的局限。 我 希望 通 过Messika by Gigi Hadid系列吸引千禧 一代。购买入门级饰品的年 轻 人可以 和品牌共 同成长，逐渐 形成 属于自己的Messika风 格。” Messika的作品定价从 几百欧 元 至数十万欧 元不 等，但创作时无疑 均着眼于 现代 客人。晶莹 剔 透 的钻石镶嵌在时尚新潮的短 项链 和耳骨夹 上，由卓越 技 艺 和稀 世 珍宝共同造 就 的非凡作 品当然不该 深 锁于保 险 箱之中。 高级 珠宝曾经 是贵族名流的传 世 珍藏，他 们 频 繁出入于旺多姆广场的珠宝世 家，受 邀出 席顶级私人沙龙，拥有 极高的品牌忠诚 度。如 今，新 老 珠宝商正在 顺 应潮流，转变策 略，满足 年 轻富 有 群 体的购物 需 求。还有什么地 方比 这 儿更 适合挥 霍一番的呢？

34: THE REAL THING 真切感触 巴黎最美精品店打造非凡零售 体 验，展 现与电商争 夺客 源的秘诀。Sally McIlhone报 道 如 今网络购物大 行其道，大大削弱了实体店的 统治 地位。然而，身处巴 黎奢 华 靓丽的 精品店 中的亲身感受 和 体 验 是 无法用金 钱 衡 量 的。冰 冷的电 脑 屏幕无法展现高端 时装的奇妙质感 和 定制香 氛的曼妙 香 气，亦不能弥 补亲眼见证 皮 革变成 精 美 皮 箱的震 撼。品牌 必 须 逐渐将这 种 感官上 的体 验引入实体店中，才 能 让前来购物 的客人不虚 此 行。无论是 通 过引人 入 胜 的展览 或 产品发布会 吸引顾客，还 是在 精品店中开辟 出一片空间来向挑 剔买主 展 示品牌 的 精湛 工 艺，巴 黎最令人 着 迷 的几家 旗 舰 店正在 探 询新 奇的 方 式，招 徕 顾客踏 进 店门。 2017年底 开业的路易威 登旺多姆广场旗 舰 店宣告 着 这一 法国传 奇品牌重 返其 魂 牵梦 绕 的 故乡。1854年，天赋 异 禀的行李 箱制造商路易 威 登在 加普希 纳 街4号 开设了第一家门店，不远 globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

处 便是 著名的旺多姆广场。当时 城 里共 有大小 皮 箱制造商 340家，只有路易威 登被 欧仁 妮 皇 后 相中，从 此他的品牌 便受 到无 数名流 显贵的青 睐与厚爱，之后发 生 的 故事人 尽皆知。 精品店坐落于两栋典 雅 的联 排别墅之中，该 建 筑由 Jules Hardouin- Mansart设 计 — —凡 尔赛 宫也是 他的杰 作。备 受 奢 侈品牌青 睐 的建 筑 师 Peter Marino精心 修 复了一楼五 米高的天花 板， 让楼 宇内部重现昔日光 辉。艺 术爱 好者可以 欣 赏到32件悉心 挑 选 的 艺 术品，其中许 多展品是 为这家备 受尊崇的 “店中贵妇 ”专门定制。 路易威 登旺多姆广场旗 舰 店共四层，从成 衣、顶 级 珠 宝、家居内饰到皮具，顾客可以 尽情 探索品牌 的所有产品，沉 浸在 路易威 登的世界 中。此 外，路易威 登旺多姆广场旗 舰 店出售一系 列令品牌爱 好者爱不 释手的 精品 — — 包括1. 45 米定制高级 珠 宝 行李 箱 和 令人叹为观 止的 Tambour Moon Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève日内瓦印记飞 行陀飞 轮腕 表。VIP贵宾可 以 移步Appartement区域，在完 全 私密的环 境下 品鉴 路易威 登的杰 作。如看完 这 些 精品 仍意 犹 未 尽，店内还设有两间工坊，着重 展现品牌无 以伦比的顶尖 工 艺。高级 珠 宝 工坊让 宝石鉴赏 家们徜 徉 其中，而Atelier Rare & Exceptionnel（ 珍 稀杰 作）工坊则诚 邀贵宾 在 此 预览 精 美 作 品，并请店内巧匠按照具体要求将其 改 造为自 己的专属 精品。 同样发 迹于旺多姆广场的法国香 氛世 家娇 兰（Guerlain）也 在 2017年 年底于同一 地 区的圣 奥诺雷街356号 开设了一家新店。店中的 香 味 馆 藏陈列着110种 香 型。“ 香水中心”（perfume organ）为顾客 提 供 数字 化的咨询服务，帮助顾 客 创作自己专属的 香 氛作品。客人在 店内还 可 以为这 些定制香 氛 选 择自己喜爱的 瓶 身 和包 装。如果您 是为 最心爱的 香水补货，只需用店内 的 香水补充 装 置 perfume fountains灌满蜜 蜂瓶（ 该独特 瓶 身 设 计 始 于1853年）即 可，减 少浪 费， 保 护 环 境。圣奥诺雷街 精品店 还 重 新推出了 Thierry Wasser于2007年创作的Iris Ganache香 水，独 家销售。放下电 脑、走出家门吧，这座 豪 华 的 香 气 殿 堂一定会 让香 氛 爱 好者收 获满 满。 坐落于香 榭丽舍 大街 的 娇兰巴 黎旗 舰 店同 样充 满迷 人 魅力，由设 计优 雅 的 精品店— — 建 筑 师 Peter Marino的又一杰 作 — — 娇兰spa中心 和 Le 68 Guy Martin餐厅 组 成。在 圣奥诺雷街 分店购买到个 性化 香水后，不妨来这 里体 验 为 您 量 身定制的美容 护肤 服务，畅 享美味 晚餐。 与路易威 登和 娇兰 相比，Kenzo凯 卓是 一 个 相对年 轻 的品牌。其最 新 开设 的巴 黎 分店位于 玛 黑区（Marais），目标 群 体是 时 髦的年 轻

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人— —印有品牌 标 识 的针 织套 衫 和 Kalifornia手 袋受 到他们 的追 捧。该 店旨在 挖 掘 年 轻 一代的 喜好，推出新潮 独特、与众不同的产品 — — 这 里有特 别设 计的Kenzo服 装，完 全不同于品牌 其 他门店。粉 丝们 还 可以在 这 里买到复古款 式， 以 及向经典致 敬 的La Collection Memento精品 系列。此 外，靠 近门口的区域 还 会举办展览、产 品发布会 和各种 活 动。 在 路易威 登、娇兰 和 Kenzo凯 卓 之外，还有 许 多品牌 都证明了实体店仍比在 线 购物更 胜 一 筹 — —如果您 追求 真实的巴 黎购物 体 验，就 应 当把自己从电 脑中解放出来，亲身探索巴 黎最 佳 精品店的奇妙 世界。

56: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名游 客 享用环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的购物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在 购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供环 球 蓝联（Global Blue）退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税流 程即 可： 1. 购物 消费 在 橱 窗里带 有 环 球 蓝联 退 税(Global Blue Tax Free) 标 志的商店中购物时，请向店员出示护照 原件，索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 好购物票 据。 2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表格和 相关票 据，获 取海 关印章，然 后再到环 球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费175. 01欧 元即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省 高达12%的商品购买 价。请注 意：您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝联 的手 续费。如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单 位收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 30: THE FRESH FACE OF FINE JEWELLERY НОВЫЙ ОБЛИК ДРАГОЦЕННОСТЕЙ

Люсинда Тернер рассказывает о ювелирных домах на площади Vendôme, которые не только поддерживают традиции, но и осваивают передовые тренды Практически невозможно превзойти площадь Vendôme в элегантности и великолепии. Ее богатая история навевает мысли о Прекрасной эпохе, роскошных приемах в Ritz времен «бурных двадцатых» и, конечно, аристократической страсти к украшениям, которые будут передаваться по наследству следующим поколениям. Но стоит переступить порог ювелирных салонов – и перемены во вкусах и стиле станут очевидными. Ювелирные дома, многие годы работающие в первом округе Парижа, готовы идти в ногу с 21 веком. Они обращаются к сверкающим камням и драгоценным металлам, столь привычным в этих обеспеченных кварталах, и превращают их в современные украшения. Да, покупатели с традиционными вкусами по-прежнему обнаружат здесь величественные ожерелья. И все же, в витрины выставлены изящные произведения для ценителей современного стиля. Ювелирный дом Boucheron находится в доме номер 26 на площади Vendôme уже 125 лет. Фредерик Бушерон первым среди ювелиров открыл здесь свой магазин: он предпочел ту часть площади, куда попадает больше всего солнечного света. Этот особый свет по-прежнему сияет в коллекциях Boucheron. К 160-летию бренда (он был основан за 35 лет до переезда на площадь Vendôme) приурочена коллекция Quatre Clou de Paris – продолжение культовой линии Quatre, предназначенной более молодым покупателям. Тонкий золотой браслет с бриллиантами в объемной геометричной оправе смотрится органично и идеален для повседневного ношения. Boucheron ассоциируется с пышными и заметными украшениями, и в этом

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он создал капсульную коллекцию совместно с супермоделью и ведущей Джиджи Хадид. «Когда я открывала Messika, женщины покупали бриллианты только по особым случаям, например, к помолвке, или носили их с вечерними нарядами, – размышляет основательница бренда Валери Мессика. – Мне хотелось изменить стереотип и сломать возрастные и стилевые барьеры. С помощью коллекции Messika by Gigi Hadid я обратилась к миллениалам. Надеюсь, что таким образом миллениалы познакомятся с брендом, вырастут вместе с нами и с годами соберут собственную коллекцию украшений Messika». Цена украшений варьируется от нескольких сотен до сотен тысяч евро, но в том, что они созданы с мыслями о современном покупателе, сомневаться не приходится. Бриллианты оправлены в современные чокеры и серьги: таким вещам определенно не место в шкатулке или сейфе. Раньше изысканные украшения были привилегией знатных людей, которые часто бывали в исторических ювелирных домах на площади Vendôme, – у них были приглашения в частные салоны и накопленная годами приверженность бренду. Сегодня и новые, и старые ювелирные дома готовы меняться, чтобы отвечать запросам молодой аудитории с деньгами. Разве есть место лучше, чтобы потратить их?

Сверху: заколка в виде колибри Van Cleef & Arpels Lucky Animals

ФОТО: © OLIVER ASTROLOGO

отношении серия Quatre – одна из центральных для бренда. Тем более новаторской выглядит чистая и лаконичная эстетика новых произведений. Бренд Van Cleef & Arpels, сосед Boucheron по площади Vendôme, также ищет признания у молодых людей, но не торопится адаптировать дизайн к их вкусам. Вместо этого он обратился к архивной коллекции, изначально предназначенной для этой аудитории, и решил вернуть ее в оборот. Серия Lucky Animals создана в 2018 году на основе коллекции La Boutique 1954 года, чтобы продемонстрировать жизнерадостный настрой ювелирного дома. Девять брошей в виде животных из оникса, тигрового глаза, малахита, лазурита и сердолика доступны по цене и могут стать отправной точкой для знакомства с брендом. Они универсальны в ношении и немного по-детски непосредственны, но благодаря высочайшему уровню исполнения оторвать от них взгляд практически невозможно. Если эти компании работают через необычный дизайн, то бренд Chaumet, некогда ювелирный дом Наполеона, решил по-новому взглянуть на ювелирный бизнес в целом. Он снимает целые фильмы об украшениях и публикует на сайте и в социальных сетях. В центре сюжета одного из них – молодая пара, которая повторяет путь жены Наполеона Жозефины и путешествует по мифическому Парижу под современный саундтрек. Девушка сочетает бриллианты Chaumet с кожаной курткой, а потом – и со смокингом в мужском стиле. В финале они едут на рассвете по первому округу, и в этой их беззаботности угадывается чисто парижское настроение. На героях – драгоценности и ювелирные произведения, а сама обыденность ситуации работает со стереотипом, будто столь особенные предметы нужно хранить в специальном сейфе и носить только «когда вырастешь». Еще одним шагом Chaumet к современности стало приложение You Me Paris, созданное совместно с экспертом по Парижу My Little Paris. С его помощью можно побывать в неизвестных районах французской столицы, а попутно узнать об истории бренда и влиянии города на его произведения. Молодые бренды также заинтересованы в обновлении аудитории. Ювелирный дом Messika открылся неподалеку от площади Vendôme всего 12 лет назад. В поисках новых решений

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34: THE REAL THING ПОДЛИННЫЕ РАДОСТИ Салли Макилхоун рассказывает, как лучшим парижским бутикам удается отвлечь покупателей от онлайн-шоппинга, предлагая нечто необыкновенное Шоппинг в интернете становится все популярнее и уже ставит под сомнение превосходство реальных магазинов. И все же посещение самых необычных бутиков Парижа способно подарить впечатления, конкуренции с которыми не выдержит онлайн. Ни один экран не сможет передать прикосновение к хорошей одежде, аромат в парфюмерном ателье или чудо превращения куска кожи в аккуратный чемодан. Бренды все чаще задумываются, как сделать визит в магазин еще более приятным и интересным для потенциального покупателя. Это может принимать самые разные формы: выставки, презентации новых продуктов или целые открытые мастерские для самых взыскательных клиентов. Бутик Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme, открывшийся в конце 2017 года, стал символом возвращения легендарного французского бренда к духовным корням. В 1854 году мастер по дорожным сундукам Луи Вюиттон открыл первый магазин в доме номер 4 по улице rue Neuve-desCapucines – в паре шагов от знаменитой площади Vendôme. В то время в городе работало более 340 производителей чемоданов, но именно Вюиттон привлек внимание императрицы Евгении. Она стала первой в списке знаменитых клиентов бренда, а остальное, как говорится, уже история. Два элегантных особняка, в которых расположился бутик, спроектировал в начале 18 века Жюль Ардуэн-Мансар (ему же принадлежит проект Версаля). В наши дни архитектор Питер Марино, которого особенно ценят модные дома, вернул интерьерам былую роскошь и восстановил декор пятиметровых потолков на первом этаже. Ценителям искусства наверняка будет интересно увидеть 32 произведения, украшающие интерьер, причем многие из них заказаны специально для бутика. Четыре этажа Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme призваны погрузить посетителя в мир Louis globalblue.ru

Vuitton и располагают полным предложением бренда: от готовой одежды и ювелирных украшений до предметов интерьера и кожгалантереи. Кроме того, Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme предлагает ряд великолепных продуктов, которые станут приятным сюрпризом для поклонников бренда: в частности, здесь можно заказать сундук длиной 1,45 метра для ювелирных украшений или часы Tambour Moon Tourbillon Volant Poinçon de Genève. VIP-клиенты могут воспользоваться закрытым залом Appartement, чтобы исследовать коллекции модного дома в полной приватности. Если и этого недостаточно, то для самых взыскательных гостей при магазине работает два ателье, где проçессиональные и опытные мастера адаптируèт выбранные модели к особым пожеланиям покупателей. Ювелирная мастерская приглашает ценителей драгоценных камней, а Atelier Rare & Exceptionnel – тех, кто заинтересован в эксклèзивной одежде. С Вандомской площадьè связана история еще одного çранцузского бренда – парçèмерного дома Guerlain. В конце 2017 года он открыл новый бутик в этом районе – в доме номер 356 по улице Saint-Honoré. Его особенностьè стала библиотека из 110 ароматов и «парçèмерный оргáн», который дает посетителям циçровуè консультациè, а затем помогает составить собственнуè подборку ароматов. éроме того, бренд создает композиции по индивидуальному заказу, причем выбрать можно даже дизайн çлакона. А если вам хочется просто пополнить полèбившиеся духи, то прямо в магазине работаèт специальные çонтанчики. При этом, повторное использование традиционной «пчелиной» бутылочки (это оçормление сохранилось с 1853 года) помогает бережному отношениè к окружаèщей среде. Специально к открытиè бутика на rue Saint-Honoré был перевыпущен парçèм Iris Ganache, созданный Тьерри Вассером в 2007 году. Словом, истинные ценители парçèмерии будут вознаграждены за то, что оставили компьèтеры и отправились в необычный çлагман Guerlain. Не менее интересен и второй парижский çлагман Guerlain на Елисейских полях. Помимо магазина, над оçормлением которого также работал Питер Марино, здесь есть спа-салон L’Institut Guerlain и ресторан Le 68 Guy Martin. Создав собственный парçèм на rue Saint-

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Honoré, отправляйтесь сюда – на процедуры Made to Measure и вкуснейший ужин.

Kenzo – более молодой бренд, чем Vuitton и Guerlain. Новый магазин в парижском районе Маре адресован активным молодым людям, которые с таким удовольствием раскупали фирменные джемперы с логотипом и сумки Kalifornia. Задача пространства – ответить на потребность нового поколения в чем-то новом, необычном и неповторимом. Именно поэтому здесь представлена подборка одежды Kenzo, которой больше нет ни в одном фирменном магазине. Ценители бренда могут заказать винтажные вещи и капсульную серию La Collection Memento, основанную на архивных коллекциях. Отдельное пространство в передней части магазина отведено для выставок, презентаций и специальных событий.

Louis Vuitton, Guerlain и Kenzo на соб-

ственном примере доказывают, что магазины с продуманной концепцией по-прежнему способны успешно конкурировать с интернетом. Чтобы получить по-настоящему парижский опыт шоппинга, нужно выключить компьютер и отправиться в лучшие бутики мировой столицы моды.

56: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. Сверху: сундук для ювелирных украшений Louis Vuitton

ФОТО: MARIUS W HANSEN

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.

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‫‪ -Marino‬إل جانب ‪ Guerlain spa‬ومطعم ‪Le 68 Guy‬‬ ‫للعالمات التجاريّة أن توفّر هذا العنرص االختباري يف متاجرها لتعطي‬ ‫الخاص من فرع ‪،Saint Honoré‬‬ ‫الزبون قيمة مضافة يف خالل زيارته‪ .‬قد يكون ذلك من خالل معارض‬ ‫‪ .Martin‬بعد أن تختار عطرك ّ‬ ‫َ‬ ‫شهي‪.‬‬ ‫محل‬ ‫ال تف ّوت وحفالت إلطالق منتجات تجذب الز ّوار أو من خالل ّ‬ ‫تعال هنا لالستمتاع بعالج بحسب طلبك وللتلذّذ بعشاء ّ‬ ‫بكل األحوال‪ Kenzo ،‬عالمة أحدث من دا َري ‪ Louis Vuitton‬و‪Guerlain‬‬ ‫املتبرصين‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يخصص مساحة لعرض احرتاف العالمة للزبائن ّ‬ ‫تجد املتاجر األساسيّة يف باريس طرقاً جديدة وملفتة للفت أنظار الز ّوار ويقع محلّها البارييس األخري يف منطقة ‪ .Marais‬تستهدف حشودا ً‬ ‫من الشباب توافدوا لرشاء الكنزات التي تحمل إسم العالمة وحقائب‬ ‫وتشجيعهم عىل زيارتها‪.‬‬ ‫افتتح دار‪ Louis Vuitton‬أبوابه يف ساحة ‪ Vendôme‬يف أواخر ‪ .Kalifornia‬يسعى املتجر إل تلبية رغبات جيل جديد من خالل‬ ‫توفري ابتكارات جديدة فريدة ومختلفة وهي منوذج منقّح من مالبس‬ ‫العام ‪ 2017‬معلناً عودة العالمة الفرنسيّة العريقة إل كنفها‪ .‬سنة‬ ‫أي من املالبس املوجودة يف متاجر العالمة األخرى‪.‬‬ ‫‪ ،1854‬افتتح هذا الصانع املذهل لحقائب السفر أ ّول متج ٍر له يف‬ ‫‪ ،Kenzo‬ال يشبه ّ‬ ‫كام بإمكان محبّي ‪ Kenzo‬أن يشرتوا قطعاً قدمية هنا‪ ،‬باإلضافة‬ ‫شارع ‪ ،Neuve-des-Capucines‬عىل بُعد دقائق من ساحة‬ ‫إل قطع من التشكيلة املصغّرة ‪La Collection Memento‬‬ ‫‪ Vendôme‬الشهرية‪ .‬ومن بني ‪ 340‬صانع حقائب يف املدينة‪ ،‬لفت‬ ‫املحل‪،‬‬ ‫املستوحاة من األرشيف‪ .‬زد عىل ذلك مساحة يف مقدّمة ّ‬ ‫‪ Vuitton‬وحده انتباه االمرباطورة ‪ ،Eugénie‬فكانت أول زبائنه‬ ‫تستضيف معارض وحفالت إلطالق منتجات ومناسبات مختلفة‪.‬‬ ‫املرموقني ث ّم ك ّرت السبحة والتاريخ شاهد عىل ذلك‪.‬‬ ‫ليست دور ‪ Louis Vuitton‬و‪ Guerlain‬و‪ Kenzo‬األسامء‬ ‫املحل يف مبنيني أنيقني قدميني ص ّممهام ‪Jules Hardouin-‬‬ ‫يقع ّ‬ ‫تول أيضاً تصميم قرص ‪ .Versailles‬قام املهندس الوحيدة الكفيلة باستمرار تف ّوق املتاجر عىل الشاشة‪ .‬فإن كنت ترغب‬ ‫‪ Mansart‬الذي ّ‬ ‫بتجربة تس ّوق باريسيّة حقيقيّة‪ ،‬اترك جهاز الكمبيوتر جانباً واكتشف‬ ‫‪ Peter Marino‬املفضّ ل لدى العالمات الفاخرة‪ ،‬بإرجاع الديكور‬ ‫عامل السحر يف أفضل محالت املدينة‪.‬‬ ‫الداخيل إل مجده السابق‪ ،‬مر ّمامً أسقف الطابق األ ّول التي تعلو‬ ‫خمسة أمتار‪.‬ال ّ‬ ‫شك أن يستمتع محبّو الف ّن برؤية ‪ 32‬عمالً فنيّاً مختارا ً‬ ‫بعناية ومعروضاً يف املكان‪ ،‬علامً أ ّن الكثري منها منجزا ً خصيصاً‬ ‫لعمالق‬ ‫‪WHEN YOU SHOP THE‬‬ ‫املحالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE :56‬‬ ‫يف طوابق ‪ Louis Vuitton Vendôme‬األربعة‪ ،‬ميكن الز ّوار‬ ‫استكشاف سائر منتجات العالمة‪ ،‬من املالبس الجاهزة إل املجوهرات عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪،‬‬ ‫الفاخرة فقطع التصميم الداخيل والسلع الجلديّة‪ ،‬تائهني يف‬ ‫‪Vuitton‬عامل‪ Louis‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ ‫‪ .Louis Vuitton‬باإلضافة إل ذلك‪ ،‬يقدّم دار‬ ‫‪ Vendôme‬تشكيلة من املنتجات الجميلة التي تلفت عشّ اق العالمة؛‬ ‫ومنها مثالً صندوق مجوهرات بطول ‪ 1.45‬مرتا ً أو ساعة ‪ Tambour‬تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع‬ ‫الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من ‪300,000‬‬ ‫‪Moon Tourbillon Volant Poinҫon de Genҫve‬‬ ‫متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫حق‪ .‬وبإمكان الزبائن املرموقني أن يطّلعوا عىل ابتكارات‬ ‫الرائعة عن ّ‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع‬ ‫‪ Louis Vuitton‬بخصوصيّة تا ّمة يف قسم ‪.Appartement‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إال‬ ‫الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫وملزيد من التشويق‪ ،‬يض ّم املتجر مشغلني يسلّطان الضوء عىل‬ ‫أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪Global Blue‬‬ ‫مستوى العالمة الباهر من املهارة‪ .‬ينبهر خرباء األحجار الكرمية مبشغل‬ ‫املجوهرات الفاخرة‪ ،‬يف حني يتيح مشغل ‪ Rare & Exceptionnel‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫لنخبة الزبائن فرصة االطّالع املسبق عىل قطع مميّزة ليقوم حرفيّو الدار‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫بتكييفهاحسبطلباتهمالدقيقة‪.‬‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫عريق آخر ذو جذور‬ ‫دار العطور ‪ Guerlain‬إٍس ٌم تجاري فرنيس ٌ‬ ‫أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫يف ساحة ‪ .Vendôme‬افتتح محالً جديدا ً له يف املنطقة يف أواخر‬ ‫‪ 2017‬يف شارع ‪ .Saint-Honoré‬يض ّم مكتبة عطور تحوي ما‬ ‫يزيد عن ‪ 110‬روائح و”طاولة لرتكيب العطور” تقدّم للزبائن استشارة ‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة‬ ‫الخاص بهم‪ .‬وهنا ميكن صناعة العطور بحسب‬ ‫رقميّة ليبتكروا العطر ّ‬ ‫الطلب يف زجاجات قابلة للتعديل‪ ،‬ما يتيح للزبون فرصة اختيار الشكل لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫الخارجي املفضّ ل لديهم‪ .‬أ ّما الراغبون ببساطة باستبدال عط ٍر مفضّ ل‪،‬‬ ‫االسرتداد ّ‬ ‫فيمكنهم إعادة ملء زجاجات ‪( Bee‬التصميم املعتمد من قبل الدار‬ ‫لالتّصال‪:‬‬ ‫منذ سنة ‪ )1853‬من شالل العطور يف املتجر لتقليل كميّة النفايات‬ ‫ومساعدة البيئة‪ .‬تجدر اإلشارة إل إعادة إطالق عطر ‪taxfree@globalblue.com Iris Ganache‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫محل‬ ‫الذي ابتكره ‪ Thierry Wasser‬سنة ‪ ،2007‬حرصيّاً يف ّ‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ 175.01‬يورو وادّخر حتّى ‪ 12%‬من مثن‬ ‫‪ Guerlain‬يف شارع ‪ .Saint-Honoré‬بالتايل‪ ،‬لن يخيب ظ ّن‬ ‫مشرتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع‬ ‫محبّي العطور الذين سيرتكون أجهزة الكمبيوتر ويقدمون إل متجر‬ ‫الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض املطارات‪،‬‬ ‫العطور النخبوي هذا‪.‬‬ ‫يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت‬ ‫أ ّما متجر ‪ Guerlain‬الرئييس يف جادّة ‪،Champs-Élysées‬‬ ‫بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫يقل سحرا ً ويض ّم محالً مص ّمامً بروعة‪ -‬أيضا ً من ابتكار ‪Peter‬‬ ‫فال ّ‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬

‫‪THE FRESH FACE :30‬‬ ‫‪OF FINE JEWELLERY‬‬

‫الوجه الجديد للمجوهرات الفاخرة‬ ‫خلف الواجهات التاريخ ّية لدور املجوهرات يف ساحة‬ ‫‪ ،Vendôme‬يلتقي األسلوب البتكاري بالتقليدي‪.‬‬ ‫تستكشف ‪ Lucinda Turner‬العالمات التجاريّة التي‬ ‫تتأقلم مع هذه املوجة وتزدهر‬

‫من الصعب أن تضاهي أي وجهة تس ّوق األناقة والعظمة والتألّق‬ ‫التاريخي الذي تتمتّع به ساحة ‪ .Vendôme‬تُعيد هذه الساحة‬ ‫الرائعة إىل أذهاننا صور الحقبة الجميلة وحفالت الـ ‪ Ritz‬املرتفة يف‬ ‫العرشينات الصاخبة وبالطبع‪ ،‬صور نبالء ونبيالت يبحثون عن جوهرة‬ ‫خالدة يو ّرثونها إىل األجيال املقبلة‪ .‬لكن إن نظرت خلف هذه الواجهات‬ ‫العريقة قد تلح ُظ تغيريا ً‪.‬‬ ‫مع تقدّم القرن الواحد والعرشين‪ ،‬تشهد دور املجوهرات‬ ‫التاريخيّة يف الدائرة األوىل تغيريا ً مفاجئاً‪ ،‬فتأخذ األحجار ال ّرباقة واملعادن‬ ‫الثمينة التي متيّز إحدى أثرى املناطق يف باريس وتح ّولها إىل قطعٍ‬ ‫ُتبص‬ ‫عصيّة وجديدة‪ .‬ويف حني تنتظر القالدات الفخمة الزبون امل ّ‬ ‫الباحث عن عنارص الجامل العريق‪ ،‬تتألّق النوافذ بربيقٍ ناعم وتصاميم‬ ‫حديثة‪ ،‬جاذب ًة محبّي املجوهرات الفاخرة يف العام ‪.2018‬‬ ‫يحتل دار ‪ Boucheron‬املوقع نفسه يف ساحة ‪Vendôme‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يؤسس‬ ‫منذ ‪ 125‬سنة‪ .‬كان ‪ Frédéric Boucheron‬أ ّول صائغ ّ‬ ‫محالً هنا وقد اختار هذه الزاوية من الساحة بالتحديد ألنّها مشبعة‬ ‫بنور الشمس؛ ما زال ذلك النور املميّز يتغلغل يف املجموعة اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫(تأسس قبل ‪ 35‬سنة عىل انتقاله‬ ‫ومبناسبة العيد ‪ 160‬لتأسيس الدار ّ‬ ‫إىل ساحة ‪ ،)Vendôme‬أطلق ‪ Boucheron‬مجموعة ‪Quatre‬‬ ‫‪ Clou de Paris‬وهي تجسي ٌد جديد لخ ّط ‪ Quatre‬املميّز الخاص‬ ‫بالزبائن األصغر س ّناً‪ .‬تُركّب فصوص األملاس عىل هيئة هندسيّة عصيّة‬ ‫بارزة بعض اليشء عىل خاتم ذهبي رفيع ذي تصميم عميل ميكن التزيّن‬ ‫به يوميّاً‪ .‬تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن خ ّط ‪ Quatre‬يتامىش متاماً مع هويّة‬ ‫‪ ،Boucheron‬لكن شكّل األسلوب الجاميل الواضح الذي متتّعت به‬ ‫هذه اإلضافة األخرية خطوة جديدة من دار ذائع الصيت بتصاميمه‬ ‫الفاخرة‪.‬‬ ‫من الدور العريقة األخرى التي تسعى للفت أنظار الشباب‪ ،‬دار‬ ‫‪ Van Cleef & Arpels‬املجاور ملتجر ‪ Boucheron‬يف ساحة‬ ‫‪ .Vendôme‬بدلً من تحديث تصميم لجمهو ٍر يافع‪ ،‬أعادت العالمة‬ ‫استكشاف مجموعة كالسكيّة من األرشيف ُص ّممت أساساً للشباب‬ ‫وأنتجتها من جديد‪ .‬فاستحالت مجموعة ‪The Lucky Animals‬‬ ‫نسخة مستحدثة عن مجموعة ‪ La Boutique‬من سنة ‪،1954‬‬ ‫التي تُربِز جانباً فتيّاً من هذا الدار العظيم‪ .‬تتألّف املجموعة من تسعة‬ ‫مشابك عىل شكل حيوانات من العقيق اليامين وعني النمر وامللكيت‬ ‫والالزورد والعقيق األحمر وتقدّم العالمة للشباب بطريق ٍة مثاليّة‬ ‫وبأسعا ٍر معقولة‪ .‬ويعود الفضل يف سحر هذه القطع املتن ّوعة الفاتنة‬ ‫والولديّة بعض اليشء‪ ،‬إىل مستوى الحرفيّة العايل‪.‬‬ ‫تركّز بعض العالمات عىل املنتج بح ّد ذاته لتجذب زبائن أكرث‬

‫يُفعاً‪ ،‬يف حني تفكّر عالمات أخرى مبجال املجوهرات عىل نطاقٍ أوسع‪.‬‬ ‫تجدر اإلشارة هنا إىل دار ‪ Chaumet‬الذي كان يصيغ املجوهرات لـ‬ ‫‪ ،Napolean‬والذي يعرض حاليّاً مجوهراته املتأللئة يف حمالت مص ّورة‬ ‫ومنصات التواصل الجتامعي‪ .‬يظهر يف أحد هذه‬ ‫عىل موقعه اإللكرتوين ّ‬ ‫األرشطة املص ّورة بإتقان زوجان يافعان يسريان عىل خطى ‪Josephine‬‬ ‫زوجة ‪ ،Napoleon‬ويركضان يف منوذج عن باريس من نسج الخيال‬ ‫عىل وقع موسيقى عصيّة‪ .‬الشابّة ترتدي األملاس مع سرت ٍة جلديّة‬ ‫وتوكسيدو رجايل الطراز‪ ،‬ويف ٍ‬ ‫وقت لحق من الرشيط‪ ،‬يجري الزوجان‬ ‫يف الدائرة األوىل عند الفجر ويغمرهام الفرح يف ج ّو بارييس بامتياز‪.‬‬ ‫تتزيّن الشخصيّتان مبجوهر ٍ‬ ‫ات فاخرة كارستان الصورة النمطيّة املتمثّلة‬ ‫برضورة حفظ قطعٍ مميّزة كهذه يف خزنة واعتبارها حكرا ً عىل “الكبار”‪.‬‬ ‫من املزايا اإلضافيّة األخرى يف مقاربة ‪ Chaumet‬الحديثة‪،‬‬ ‫تطبيق ‪ You Me Paris‬الذي ابتُكر بالتعاون مع الخبري البارييس‬ ‫باملدينة ‪ .My Little Paris‬يوفّر التطبيق رحالت منظّمة إىل أجزاء‬ ‫خفيّة من املدينة فيام يُطلع املستخدم عىل تاريخ العالمة التجاريّة‬ ‫ومدى تأث ّرها باملدينة‪.‬‬ ‫ل يقتص السعي إىل جذب الجيل األكرث “باباً عىل األسامء‬ ‫مختصة باملجوهرات الفاخرة‪،‬‬ ‫العريقة فحسب‪ Messika .‬عالمة ّ‬ ‫أُطلقت منذ ‪ 12‬سنة وتقع عىل أطراف ساحة ‪ ،Vendôme‬لجأت‬ ‫إىل النجمة العامليّة ‪ Gigi Hadid‬لبتكار مجموعتها املصغّرة‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫املؤسسة ‪“ :Valerie Messika‬عندما أٍّ ّسست ‪ ،Messika‬كانت‬ ‫املرأة معتادة عىل رشاء األملاس للمناسبات املميّزة فحسب‪ ،‬للخطوبة‬ ‫عىل سبيل املثال أو مع فساتني السهرة التقليديّة‪ .‬رغبت ح ّقاً بتغيري‬ ‫هذه الفكرة وتخطّي كافّة حواجز العمر أو األسلوب‪ .‬فهدفت من خالل‬ ‫مجموعة ‪ Messika by Gigi Hadid‬أن أجذب جيل الشباب‪.‬‬ ‫نأمل أ ّن الشابّة التي تشرتي من قطعنا البتدائيّة ستكرب مع العالمة مع‬ ‫الخاصة من ‪ Messika‬عرب السنني‪”.‬‬ ‫مرور الزمن وتشكّل مجموعتها ّ‬ ‫ترتاوح أسعار القطع بني بضع مئات اليوروهات إىل مئات اآللف‪،‬‬ ‫لكن ل ّ‬ ‫“ك أنّها مص ّممة بأرسها للزبون املعارص‪ .‬فصوص األملاس مركّبة‬ ‫يف عقود ضيّقة وأقراط أذن عصيّة ومبتكرة‪ ،‬مح ّول ًة املهارات املمتازة‬ ‫واألحجار الكرمية إىل قطعٍ ل تنتمي ق ّط إىل الخزنات‪.‬‬ ‫يف املايض‪ ،‬كانت املجوهرات الفاخرة حكرا ً عىل النبالء الذين‬ ‫يرتادون الدور التاريخيّة يف ‪Vendôme‬؛ أي زبائن يتلقّون دعوات‬ ‫خاصة ويتمتّعون بسنوات مديدة من الوفاء للعالمة‪ .‬أ ّما دور‬ ‫لصالونات ّ‬ ‫وتتغري لتلبّي طلبات‬ ‫املجوهرات اليوم‪ ،‬الجديدة والقدمية منها‪ ،‬فتتأقلم ّ‬ ‫السوق الشاب املالك للامل‪ .‬وهل من مكان أفضل من هذا إلنفاقه؟‬

‫‪THE REAL THING :34‬‬

‫املتاجر الحقيق ّية‬

‫تقدّم أجمل املحالت يف باريس تجارب تس ّوق استثنائ ّية‬ ‫قادرة عىل جذب الزبائن وتحويل أنظارهم عن التس ّوق‬ ‫عرب اإلنرتنت‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Sally McIlhone‬‬ ‫أطاح “يوع التس ّوق عرب اإلنرتنت بهيمنة املتاجر الحقيقيّة؛ إل أ ّن زيارة‬ ‫أروع املحالت يف باريس ل يقدّر بثمن‪ .‬فام من “ا“ة كمبيوتر قادرة‬ ‫ثوب فريد أو رائحة عط ٍر مركّب حسب الطلب‬ ‫عىل توفري ملمس ٍ‬ ‫أو روعة ٍ‬ ‫جلد تراه يتح ّول إىل حقيبة جميلة أمام عينيك‪ .‬بالتايل‪ ،‬ل ب ّد‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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SOUVENIR

RED ALERT This season, Carven’s creative director Serge Ruffieux wanted to create the mood of a new Paris for a modern Carven woman – one who takes traditions and plays with them in her own way. Dramatic pom poms, woven raffia and ribbon ties on an otherwise classic pair of flat red shoes are the pure embodiment of that idea. Fun and frivolity are bound to occur when you slip into a pair of shoes such as these.

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56

Team yours with a pretty summer dress for an unexpected twist, add a woven bag to tap even further into the raffia trend – and take home an ideal souvenir of Carven’s fresh take on Paris. lt Carven shoes, €495, Carven, 13 rue de Grenelle, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4222 2493, carven.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

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THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

12, B OULEVARD DES CAPUCINES – PARIS 9 E BUCHERER.COM