PARIS | 巴黎 | ПАРИЖ | باريس
EXPLORE PARIS: discover the top luxury shopping in this vibrant city with our essential guide
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 140 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces at 33 Wempe showrooms worldwide. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T. 01.42 60 21 77 and at the best addresses in Germany and in London, Madrid, Vienna and New York. www.wempe.com
Wempe-Cut®
Perfection has 137 hand-cut facets. At the best addresses in Germany and in New York, Paris, London, Vienna, Madrid – WEMPE.COM
EdItOr’S LEttEr Essential Info For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.
Welcome to Paris
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SALLY McILHONE
ILLUSTRATION: PeTRA eRIkSSON
Let us help you discover the very best of Europe’s elegant fashion capital. Paris has much to offer, and many brands are available online, so visitors can still enjoy the safest luxury shopping experience. There has never been a better time to invest in a thoughtful gift, whether for yourself or for your loved ones, to send a smile when it’s most needed. Supersized or micro are the only ways to go with handbags this season – discover the best of both extremes in our feature on page 28. Don’t miss our interview with French designer Alexis Mabille (page 26), a celebrity favourite. In this issue we also recommend the cream of Parisian hotel restaurants (page 34). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. We have over a decade’s experience of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in Paris. Discover the best shopping destinations in the city with Global Blue.
MAXMARA.COM PARIS - 100, Av. Paul Doumer - 37, Rue du Four - 31, Av. Montaigne - 408/410, Rue St. Honoré
conTRIbuToRS
REbEcca RHYS-EvanS
KIRSTY WELSH
naTHaLIE LEES
An accomplished journalist specialising in the high-end international shopping market, Kirsty Welsh has over 15 years’ experience in the fashion and beauty industry, and has contributed to City AM, Elle UK and the Sunday Telegraph. She can frequently be found browsing boutiques for herself and her daughter Clementine Lilac, seeking out new foodie haunts, and bravely enduring the latest workouts to launch in London.
Nathalie Lees created this season’s cover illustration for the luxury edition of SHOP Paris. Her bold and witty style is perfectly showcased by this striking image, which shows three elegant women dressed in outfits that cleverly incorporate classic Parisian landmarks. Her previous clients include the BBC and the New York Times. Discover SHOP Paris and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
ILLUSTRATION: NAThALIe LeeS
SHOP contributor Rebecca Rhys-Evans has a degree in American literature, history and cultures from the University of Liverpool and formerly ran the online team at Flannels.com. She has previously written for several British and international fashion brands and magazines.
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CONTENTS CHECK OUT 12
SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season
PRODUCTS 14
Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
INVESTMENT PIECE 18
Future classics to buy this season: Van Cleef & Arpels’ timeless Alhambra jewellery and watches
SHOP WINDOW 20
Don’t miss the beautifully renovated Chaumet flagship on prestigious place Vendôme
NEWS 21
Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
TABLE TALK 34
Hotel restaurants have upped their game. Rebecca Rhys-Evans suggests some of the top names to know in Paris
PARIS GUIDE 39
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris
HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 50 The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
TRANSLATIONS 52 中文翻 译 54 Русский Перевод 57 ةّيبرعلا ةغللاب ةمجرت SOUVENIR 58
The essential item to bring home
10 QUESTIONS … 26
FEATURE CARRIED TO EXTREMES 28
Supersized or extra-small are the sizes for this season’s bags, writes Lucinda Turner Above: Longchamp spring/summer 2020
PHOTO: ©GORUNWAY.COM
… with top French designer Alexis Mabille
14 octobre 2019, Paris Matthew Bell photographié par Karim Sadli Online shop : www.defursac.fr
112, rue de Richelieu - Paris IIè 34, avenue de l’Opéra - Paris IIè 146, boulevard Saint Germain - Paris VIè
CHECK OUT
From Russia With Love
The story of Parisian jewellery house Korloff began with an exceptional 200-carat rough black diamond, discovered over 100 years ago and cut into an extraordinary 88-carat jewel. The diamond was owned by the noble Russian Korloff-Sapojnikoff family for generations and is said to bring good luck. It became a symbol of the Korloff contemporary jewellery brand, founded in 1978, and is now on display in the Paris flagship store – the maison’s proprietary 88-facet cut was inspired by the original stone. The modern, delicate pieces in Let Me Out, Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
the brand’s latest collection, were inspired by sweepingly feminine curves and feature encaged jewels. Diamonds and garnets set in rose gold dazzle both for everyday wear and for extra-special occasions. LT Korloff Let Me Out ring, €2,570; pendant, €3,000; earrings, €6,600, Korloff, 12 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4927 9209, korloff.com H fOR MAP GO TO PAGE 47
14 | P R O D U C T S
Look to Leather Tap into spring/summer 2020’s trend for head-to-toe leather with retro-inspired styles PIAGET NECKLACE, €1,770, PIAGET, 16 PLACE VENDÔME, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5535 3280, PIAGET.COM
FENDI SUNGLASSES, €340, FENDI, 51 AVENUE MONTAIGNE, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4952 8452, FENDI.COM
CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE PURSE, €250, CELINE, 16 RUE DE GRENELLE, 75007 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5580 1499, CELINE.COM
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
ESCADA JACKET, €2,599, ESCADA, 2 AVENUE MONTAIGNE, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4289 8345, ESCADA.COM
PHOTO: (SUNGLASSES) AEDO PULTRONE
LOUIS VUITTON BAG, €1,280, LOUIS VUITTON, 2 PLACE VENDÔME, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 8170 2300, LOUISVUITTON.COM
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SHOP HIGHLIGHT* CARTIER EARRINGS, €7,200, CARTIER, 23 PLACE VENDÔME, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 7065 3800, CARTIER.COM
PHOTOS: (BOOTS) THEBEHRENS.NYS; (EARRINGS) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE-CARTER ; (DRESS) ALAIN NATHAN
SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO BOOTS, €1,395, SAINT LAURENT, 53 AVENUE MONTAIGNE, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5383 8453, YSL.COM
LONGCHAMP DRESS, €1,750, LONGCHAMP, 404 RUE SAINT-HONORÉ, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4316 0016, LONGCHAMP.COM
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SCARF, €340, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, 14 RUE DE GRENELLE, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4049 0960, FERRAGAMO.COM
*SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent
MIU MIU HAIR SLIDE, €270, MIU MIU, 1 RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, MIUMIU.COM
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Naturally Neutral Keep things tonal this season with a neutral look in the most luxurious natural fabrics
BRUnellO CUCinelli jaCkeT, €1,440, Brunello CuCinelli, 54 rue du FauBourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 PariS, +33 (0)1 4265 6452, BrunelloCuCinelli.Com iWC WaTCh, €14,200, iWC, 3-5 rue de la Paix, 75002 PariS, +33 (0)1 4261 6264, iWC.Com
Z Zegna ShORTS, €295, ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du FauBourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 PariS, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, Zegna.Com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
lORO Piana TRaineRS, €690, loro Piana, 38 avenue montaigne, 75008 PariS, +33 (0)1 5664 0600, loroPiana.Com
PHOTOS: (waTcH) © Iwc; (bag) © mIcHele SIlveSTrO
jil SanDeR Bag, €790, Jil Sander, 56 avenue montaigne, 75008 PariS, +33 (0)1 4495 0670, JilSander.Com
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Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
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PHOTOS: (BRACELET) VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - CLÉMENT ROUSSET; (EARRINGS AND NECKLACE) VAN CLEEF & ARPELS - BERTRAND MOULIN
Visit Van Cleef & Arpels, one of Paris’s most prestigious jewellers, and purchase a piece from its timeless Alhambra collection to remember your trip for a lifetime, says Lucinda Turner
First created in 1968 and inspired by the traditional good luck symbol of a four-leaf clover, the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra collection is recognised across the world. Initially launched as a long sautoir-style gold necklace featuring 20 of the distinctive clovers, over the past 50 years the range has evolved exponentially to include earrings, bracelets, rings and even watches, with new incarnations launched regularly. To drive innovation and move the collection forwards, Van Cleef & Arpels regularly draws on the experts within its high jewellery department to introduce revolutionary techniques and materials to the line. In the past, these have included the use of semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli and carnelian, as well as new takes on the design, such as the 2007 introduction of Sweet Alhambra, showcasing the lucky motif in miniature. In 2018, the brand introduced highly technical guilloché engraving to its yellow gold creations. The effect makes flat pieces of gold resemble tiny ribbons, allowing the metal to reflect with extra vibrance, and was first used by Van Cleef & Arpels in the second decade of the 20th century to embellish watch dials and into the 1930s to enhance cases, powder compacts and minaudières. globalblue.com
For the latest Alhambra offering, the house went one step further, combining guilloché gold with the added sparkle of diamonds for its most glistening range yet. Created to resemble the glow of the sun, the guilloché range includes a long necklace, bracelet, pendant and dainty earrings, all of which dazzle when worn together or separately. In addition to the jewellery, two new watches have been added, one with an interchangeable alligator strap in navy, black, blue, burgundy, peach, fuchsia and white, and the second with a glamorous Alhambra bracelet embellished with pavé diamonds and lustrous mother of pearl. For a chic special occasion or for everyday wear, Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels is a lifelong classic Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Alhambra bracelet, €5,050; earrings, €4,800; necklace, €10,100, Van Cleef & Arpels, 20 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5504 1111, vancleefarpels.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 47
SHOP WINDOW
Chaumet recently reopened its renovated hôtel particulier townhouse at 12 place Vendôme, the historic address which comprises the house’s boutique, salons and high jewellery atelier. Chaumet was once the official purveyor to the Empress Joséphine of France and the brand’s founder was one of the first to take up an address on the now famous square. The different rooms and salons of the renovated space celebrate this heritage: in the Salon des Diadèmes, for Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
example, hundreds of tiaras are displayed on Chaumet’s signature blue while the pictured Arcade is inspired by the 1970s. When you browse Chaumet’s exquisite jewellery, tiaras, wedding bands and timepieces, look out for the Légende medallions collection, which was launched to celebrate the reopening. GRC Chaumet, 12 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4477 2424, chaumet.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 47
PHOTO: © STEPHANE MURATET
A NEW CHAPTER FOR CHAUMET
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NEW VISION Spring/summer 2020 marks Karl Templer’s debut as artistic director for Ports 1961, as the brand embarks on a new chapter that it describes as the beginning of a ‘modern creative collective’. Ports 1961 creates a wardrobe for contemporary women consisting of staples such as suits, trench coats and long dresses. A plethora of prints and patterns runs through the collection: animal prints are rendered in black and white, graphic patterns are juxtaposed with florals, different prints are used in panelling or to create stripes. This collection is complemented by bags finished with a new logo, colourful jewellery and strappy sandals. Templer and the design studio present us with a bold and elegant vision of the new Ports 1961. GRC Ports 1961, 251bis rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 3541, ports1961.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
TRUE PASSION Kilian’s latest fragrance Rolling in Love (50ml, €200), which was created by perfumer Pascal Gaurin, captures the highly addictive nature of love. It belongs to the perfume house’s Narcotics olfactive family and features top notes of ambrette seeds absolute and an almond milk accord, while the heart consists of iris concrete and freesia accord. Tonka bean absolute, pure vanilla extract, tuberose absolute and musk form the base. Kilian introduces red as a perfume bottle colour for the first time, which further conveys the idea of the all-consuming nature of passion. Kilian is known for its unique, unexpected fragrances and this latest scent is a case in point. GRC Kilian, 20 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4039 9414, bykilian.co.uk H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
IN BRIEF In a collaboration with the Louvre, Officine Universelle Buly recently called upon eight acclaimed perfumers to each interpret a masterpiece of their choice from the historic museum. The resulting fragrances make a perfect memento of your visit to Paris globalblue.com
22 | N E W S
QUALITY TIME
FIND YOUR MATCH In February Serge Lutens launched the new Allumette lipstick collection. Allumette is the French word for matchstick and this is reflected in the angular shape of the product. The Allumette lipsticks (€70 each) have a matte finish and are available in eight different shades, from rusty red to deep purple. The eponymous founder of the brand, who worked with Dior and Shiseido before launching his own label, is deemed a visionary in the world of beauty and has created fascinating products spanning both make-up and fragrance. Discover the French brand’s latest launches at either of its Paris boutiques – Serge Lutens can be found on rue Saint-Honoré as well as in the Palais Royal. GRC Serge Lutens, Palais Royal, 142 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4927 0909, sergelutens.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44 Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
Following openings in Geneva and London, luxury Swiss watchmaker Roger Dubuis has launched a new boutique in Paris, in the famous Hôtel Costes. The hotel, which was designed in 1995, the same year that the brand was founded, seems a fitting match for the watchmaker’s DNA, which combines respect for heritage with an avant-garde attitude. The store exudes the same elegance as Roger Dubuis watches themselves, with the collection shown in cabinets outlined in striking red velvet. Roger Dubuis specialises in architectural skeletonised movements, pioneering and perfecting timepieces with exquisite style and precise timekeeping. Look out for the Excalibur and Velvet collections, classic styles in the contemporary watchmaking world. GRC Roger Dubuis, Hôtel Costes, 239-241 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 0290, rogerdubuis.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
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PICTURE PERFECT In December 2019 Leica opened a new store on Paris’s Rive Gauche. The boutique is divided into two spaces behind a typically Parisian wooden storefront. Recent releases and product highlights are on display, spanning everything from camera models to binoculars. A lounge area with a 50s-inspired bar is based around a clean, simple design; visitors are invited to discover the German camera brand’s rich history and emblematic products such as the Leica M camera. You can also enjoy changing photography exhibitions and consult elegant coffee-table books. Look out for the new Leica SL2 camera, the latest update to the Leica SL-System. GRC Leica, 13 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 8833 6060, leica-camera.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48
PHOTO: (TOP) XAVIER BEJOT
BAGS OF STYLE This season Delvaux has updated the Tempête, one of its signature bags, first designed in 1967. For spring/summer 2020 the handbag takes on new shapes in the Tempête PM and the clutch-sized Tempête Pochette, which can be transformed into an evening bag with the addition of a chain. Made from the brand’s Joy calf leather, the Tempête PM and the Pochette are both available in different colourways: choose from classic black, a white version with neon details, or the pictured mauve style. Delvaux’s bags are the culmination of close to 200 years of expertise in creating luxury leather goods: they perfectly blend elegance and craftmanship. GRC Delvaux, 368 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)6 7146 0968, delvaux.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44 globalblue.com
SHOP SPOTLIGHT: BUCHERER
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ver the course of its 130-year history, Bucherer has forged excellent relationships with the world’s best watch brands. The strength of these bonds is showcased in the exclusive Bucherer Blue collection of timepiece designs from 21 watch manufacturers selected by the brand. Blue is not only Bucherer’s signature hue, but also a shade that has inspired numerous artists throughout history, as well as being a timeless and elegant colour choice for timepieces. The Bucherer Blue collection comprises 42 exclusive watches for men and women from an impressive list of names including Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Breguet,
SHOP Spotlight in paid partnership with Bucherer
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Carl F Bucherer, Chopard, Hublot, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Oris, Panerai, Piaget, Rado, Roger Dubuis and Tissot. Bucherer has even expanded the Bucherer Blue range beyond the world of watches to include a bespoke one-off Harley Davidson motorcycle and a Lamborghini Aventador S car. Each design, be it a vehicle or a timepiece, perfectly displays a fusion of Bucherer’s technical know-how, craftsmanship and unique style with those of its partners. Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7099 1888, bucherer.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 46
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10 QUESTIONS WITH ALEXIS MABILLE TOP FRENCH FASHION DESIGNER
Since founding his eponymous brand in 2005, French designer Alexis Mabille has been a firm fixture on Paris’s prestigious couture schedule. The couturier tells Lucinda Turner about craftsmanship, celebrity clients and the enduring appeal of the City of Light
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WHEN DID YOU FIRST DISCOVER YOUR PASSION FOR DESIGN? I think I have had it since my childhood, this love of textiles, colours and volumes, whether in fashion or interior design. With my naturally kind and supportive family, I got the opportunity to express myself and my passion.
HOW DOES PARIS INFLUENCE YOUR WORK? A lot. I love my city so much. I am very urban – I love walking in the street, looking at the buildings or at people’s personal styles. It is a city full of new vibes alongside the strong heritage of the country.
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HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE ALEXIS MABILLE WOMAN? She is strong and powerful, but delicate and refined. Also, a true individual and unique in the way she mixes pieces to be herself.
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HOW IMPORTANT ARE SHAPE AND VOLUME TO YOUR DESIGNS? Structure is the base of a couturier’s work. I love the architecture of cloth so I love playing with volumes. I don’t just mean big volumes – working the cut of a simple piece sometimes brings as much joy as making a complicated dress.
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IS THERE A DIFFERENCE IN THE WAY YOU APPROACH READY-TO-WEAR AND COUTURE COLLECTIONS? Not really. Sometimes I even draw the two collections at the same time and decide one piece is couture and another is ready-to-wear. The ready-to-wear is a mix of dressy daywear and cocktail pieces, so the difference is more in the way we produce it, but the mood is very similar.
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WHO IS 2020’S COUTURE CUSTOMER? It’s fun to have so many different customers today: classic couture clients; young Left: Dita Von Teese in Alexis Mabille haute couture spring/summer 2020
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) FRANCK MURA
HOW HAS THE ALEXIS MABILLE BRAND CHANGED SINCE 2005? One way it has changed is our greater focus on company development and techniques. Of course, we are much more professional now! But if we are talking about the style of my work, it is the same line, with new codes added over time. I’m still building my own vocabulary in my own world.
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people who started early with couture because of their mothers and grandmothers; and also new clients from emerging markets who love the experience of buying a couture dress. They enjoy it as though they are buying a piece of art.
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IF A FIRST-TIME ALEXIS MABILLE CUSTOMER WANTED TO BUY JUST ONE PIECE, WHICH WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? A bow dress, a long tuxedo dress or one of our long knotted bustier dresses.
9.
WHICH CELEBRITIES HAVE YOU BEEN MOST EXCITED TO SEE WEARING YOUR DESIGNS? I am very happy each time we dress celebrities I love. The first times I dressed Beyoncé, Rihanna and Katy Perry were incredibly exciting. I also love the first people who helped me by wearing my clothes, such as Cher, Dita Von Teese (pictured left) and Keira Knightley.
PHOTOS: DOMINIQUE MAITRE
10.
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PART OF YOUR JOB? The moments when I draw at home alone, with my cat sleeping by my side.
Alexis Mabille, 34 Galerie Vivenne, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)9 8062 9270, alexismabille.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44 Above: two looks from Alexis Mabille haute couture spring/summer 2020
CARRIED Whether supersized or extra-small, handbags made huge statements on the catwalks of Paris this season. Lucinda Turner presents her top picks for spring/summer 2020 In 2018, Simon Porte Jacquemus released a campaign for his eponymous Jacquemus line on Instagram. The campaign, for the brand’s spring/summer La Bomba collection, featured a model on a beach in an oversized sunhat next to a handbag so small, it had some fashion commentators wondering whether it was a joke. Two years on, and the joke is most certainly on them. What Jacquemus started was a new trend, one that could be seen endlessly during 52 57
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the spring/summer 2020 shows: the trend of playing with dramatic proportions. Fashion is not tied to practicality, one of the many factors that make it so wonderful, and Jacquemus’s tiny bags have proved just that. The French brand didn’t stop at one collection of super-small bags. The spring/ summer 2019 collection featured some of the most oversized woven bags seen in recent years and this season’s summer offering included handbags so small they would struggle to hold a euro coin. Le Chiquito and spring/summer 2020’s Le Petit Chiquito have become the brand’s most celebrated and recognisable accessory. Spotted at fashion weeks around the world, this tiny bag is a true celebration of the fun and frivolity that fashion can provide; a spirit that has been carried forward across multiple houses. Right: Valentino spring/summer 2020
PHOTO: ©GORUNWAY.COM
TO O
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One such house is Valentino, which, for the 2019 American Music Awards ceremony, collaborated with internet prankster Obvious Plant to create a super-small version of its VSling bag. Carried by musician Lizzo, the bag became a viral internet sensation overnight and, although it was a toy and not available for purchase, the minute creation continued to fuel the trend. At the other end of the scale, Big Bag Club, an Instagram account run by a graphic designer, is dedicated to reposting pictures of influencers with comically supersized versions of their original bags. As of March 2020, it had gained over 29,000 followers. Originally inspired by the growing catwalk trend for oversized handbags, the account now offers designers a chance to see how extralarge versions of their creations might look. With an ever growing pop culture movement towards these two accessories extremes, it’s no wonder that the spring/summer 2020 catwalks were littered with supersized and super-small designs. Above (from top): Jacquemus Le Chiquito handbags; Valentino spring/summer 2020
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ©GORUNWAY.COM
Playing with proportion celebrates the fun and frivolity of fashion
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PHOTOS: ©GORUNWAY.COM
For oversized designs, soft, slouchy styles reigned supreme. At Givenchy it started with clutch bags. The classic clutch has enjoyed a resurgence in recent years, and Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller decided to explore the growing trend. A striking checked monochrome design, as well as timeless black, grey and deep red pouches in supple leather, were carried on the catwalk, before two supersized handbags, also held as if they were clutches, appeared. Like many of Waight Keller’s creations at Givenchy, these bags were created for real women with busy lives. They not only look chic, but are also designed to comfortably accommodate a laptop, notes for an important meeting and all manner of other items required day to day. At Hermès too, practicality played a huge role in extra-large accessories, showcased alongside the brand’s moderately sized classic leather handbags. Oversized hobo-style shoulder bags, inspired by the patterned silk of a Hermès scarf, were combined with a selection of both poolside and city ensembles. Worn as Above (from left): Givenchy; Hermès, both spring/summer 2020
PHOTO: ©GORUNWAY.COM
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Above: Issey Miyake spring/summer 2020
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if bulging with elegant beach towels or ready for a daily visit to the boulangerie, an XXL Hermès tote is certain to be the most stylish accessory to be seen with this summer. While some oversized bags signified practicality, at both Jacquemus and Issey Miyake, the overly large bags came with an overt sense of fun. Issey Miyake added vibrancy and movement to one of the most dynamic shows of the season with fringed woven bags in shades of red and turquoise, and Jacquemus played on the proportions of a traditional French basket bag, allowing supersized bags to mingle with the super-small.
PHOTOS:© GORUNWAY.COM
Extreme handbags are a must for the season ahead Valentino also took things to both ends of the spectrum with accessories for spring/ summer 2020. While they were not quite as minute as its American Music Awards novelty, micro versions of the brand’s VSling and Rockstud bags popped up alongside brightly coloured gowns on its Paris catwalk, and elegant white leather bucket bags adorned with feathers made the case for keeping accessories substantial for the season ahead. A firm advocate of the mini-bag trend, heritage French house Longchamp presented ‘nano’ versions of its much-loved Pliage bag. After the spring/summer catwalk show, Vogue.com asked artistic director Sophie Delafontaine what one would keep in such a tiny bag. ‘A credit card, because you are always an independent woman, and your lipstick, because you are very feminine. What else do you need?’ Whether to keep things pragmatic, hop onto a trend or simply to inject a sense of joy into spring/summer 2020 dressing, Paris’s catwalks have ruled that extreme handbags are a must-have for the season ahead. Super-small or supersized, whichever handbag is top of your seasonal shopping list, it is certain to make an enormous statement Above (from top): Valentino; Longchamp, both spring/summer 2020
34 | E X P E R I E N C E
TABLE TALK Hotel restaurants have upped their game and can stand alongside even the best independent eateries. Rebecca Rhys-Evans suggests some of the top names to know in Paris
Hotel restaurants were once a last resort for the hungry. Over recent years, however, this has changed – and much for the better. On-trend, independent boutique hotels provide alluring alternatives to international chains, and their food offerings are often on a par with those of the best local eateries. Paris is in the vanguard of this movement: the quality of its solo hotels and small groups puts them at the top of visitors’ wish lists. Their restaurants offer Instagram-worthy interior design, service that goes the extra mile – and, it goes without saying, exceptional culinary delights. globalblue.com
PHOTO: SHeHan Hanwellage
LE GRAND SALON Widely regarded as the ultimate hidden gem in Paris, the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre is a spectacular 19thcentury mansion, kept secret by the large garden that surrounds it. Located not far from the famous Sacré-Cœur basilica, the building was once owned by the Hermès family, making it possibly one of the most stylish establishments in the Montmartre area. Le Grand Salon, the hotel’s restaurant, reflects this sophistication and is much frequented by the city’s creative crowd. The elegance of the exterior is found inside too; the restaurant decor features sumptuous pink velvet and a Renaissance-style painted ceiling with cloud motifs. The cuisine is French with an Asian twist; truffle foie gras, mi-cuit (lightly cooked) tuna, tiger prawns and steak are just some of the menu’s highlights, leaving guests spoiled for choice. The Grand Salon’s decadent downstairs cocktail bar serves the house’s own concoctions into the early hours. Le Grand Salon, Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, 23 avenue Junot, Pavillon D, 75018 Paris, +33 (0)1 5341 8140, hotelparticulier.com
36 | E X P E R I E N C E
WINE & DINE Bustling, hip and happening Pigalle is popular with young locals and visitors alike, and Le Grand Pigalle hotel is a go-to for visitors seeking a chic venue. Wine & Dine, its combined restaurant and bar, is a local favourite from breakfast through to dinner, not to mention a casual cocktail in the evening. Le Grand Pigalle is part of the Experimental Group, which has some of the world’s coolest hotels under its belt. The interiors present a chic retro vibe – think panelling, floor tiles, subtle lighting – in a beautiful Haussmannstyle building. The hotel’s corner placement
on busy rue Victor Massé gives the restaurant downstairs an impressive amount of window seating, ideal for those who like to sit cosily in a booth and watch the world go by. The food draws inspiration from Italy, with a mix of small and larger plates ideal for sharing: diners can expect dishes such as burrata, risotto and a cannolo dessert. If we had to choose, our Italian highlight would be the four Negronis on the cocktail menu, all equally delectable. Wine & Dine, Le Grand Pigalle, 29 rue Victor Massé, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 8573 1202, grandpigalle.com
Situated within walking distance of some of Paris’s most desirable neighbourhoods – Bastille, Canal Saint-Martin and the Marais – Maison Bréguet’s address is the definition of a good location. Ideal for those seeking to avoid the tourist track but still stay in the heart of the city, this hotel provides tranquillity in the bustling French capital. The restaurant offers a seasonal haute cuisine menu alongside less formal favourites such as burgers and Caesar salad. Light floods in at all seasons through its glass roof, and the patio with its beautiful planted wall is reason enough in itself to visit Paris in the spring and summer. Order one of the phenomenal cocktails to sip al fresco – and if your palate is more attuned to fine vintages, you’ll appreciate Maison Bréguet’s wine room, where guests can enjoy the hotel’s magnificent wine selection seated around a striking wooden table that overlooks the garden. globalblue.com
Maison Bréguet, 8 rue Bréguet, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4338 0431, maisonbreguet.com
PHOTO: (TOP) KAREL BALAS
MAISON BRÉGUET
S H O P | 37
RISTORANTE NATIONAL The Hôtel National des Arts & Métiers is only three years old, but it has already won many over with its elegant rooms and wellness offerings, not to mention the Ristorante National, which is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Inspired by Italy’s stylish trattorias, the restaurant is decorated in hues that evoke Italian landscapes. Ristorante National is not just pleasing to the eye – the seasonal menu is packed with delectable flavours. Start with the antipasti, a choice of hot and cold dishes. Those who wish to go all out should opt for the impressive half-kilo mozzarella – definitely a dish to share. The pasta menu includes the restaurant’s take on classics such as bucatini all’amatriciana (organic tomato, pecorino globalblue.com
cheese and crispy pork) and cacio e pepe (simple but delicious cheese and black pepper), while mains span fish and meat dishes. All-time favourites such as tiramisu, baba al rum and gelato provide a sweet finale. If you visit in the evening, make a night of it and end your meal with a drink from the Herbarium cocktail bar – or come for brunch at the weekend. Although it’s located in the heart of Paris, Ristorante National might make you forget that you’re in France for a few hours. Ristorante National, Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers, 243 rue Saint Martin, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 8097 2280, hotelnational.paris
PHOTO: SZILARD TOTH/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
PARIS GUIDE
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the boutique of France’s top glassmaker to some of the world’s most famous landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower, pictured above at sunset. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.
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SHOP HIGHLIGHTS Tiffany & Co. Discover one of the world’s most romantic jewellery brands in one of the world’s most romantic cities. Tiffany & Co, 6 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 2020, tiffany.com
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De Fursac Sophisticated menswear for the gentleman about town is the order of the day here. De Fursac, 34 avenue de l’Opéra, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0500, defursac.fr
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7 For All Mankind This high-end Californian premium denim brand is perfectly at home in the world’s fashion capital. 7 For All Mankind, 52 rue Pierre Charron, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 3875, 7forallmankind.com
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Escada The spring/summer 2020 collection from this stylish German brand celebrates women of substance. Escada, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4289 8345, escada.com
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● MAUBOUSSIN ● TIFFANY & CO.
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The spring/summer 2020 accessories range from one of America’s most uplifting designers is filled with nautical references and playful touches. Sleek, block-heeled Mary Janes in black have a 1940s feel, made fun with rhinestoned lemons or cherries. Sailor stripes adorn wedges and bags, as do gold stars and anchors. Basket bags are given a tough edge with metal hardware and leather straps in black, green, white and tan. SM Michael Kors, 41 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4454 1851, michaelkors.com
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● BALMAIN ● ALEXAND ER MCQUEEN ● DELVAUX P.23 ● BRIONI ● EMPORIO ARMANI
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Rue Saint-Honoré West
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DELVA UX ● P.22 SERGE LUTEN S ● P.26 ALEXI S MABIL LE ●
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LALIQUE Renowned French glassmaker Lalique reveals three bold new additions to the vibrant, colourful Les Compositions Parfumées collection, inspired by the arts of perfumery, jewellery and crystalmaking. The house of Lalique delivers exceptional fragrances: always radiant, always interesting, and among the factors that have helped this storied brand stand the test of time. The sparkling new line-up includes Blue Rise, which, like a tropical
Rue du Boissy D'Anglas
punch, transports the wearer to sun-soaked days on the French Riviera. Carefree, bohemian Velvet Plum evokes a summer garden bursting with flowers, while Infinite Shine, with its Middle Eastern influences and notes of saffron, rose and orange, is fiery and mysterious. KW Lalique, 11 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5305 1281, lalique.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 46
Rue du Malesherbes
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Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine, Rue Royale, Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe ● NESPRESS O
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● YUMIKO KATSURA
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● HERVÉ CHAPE LIER ● LES ATELI ERS DE LA MAILE
Ladurée ● WEMPE
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● AURELIE BIDERMANN ● IRO
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RUE R OYA LE
VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●
● KENZO
GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI
ESCALES ●
DIOR ● LE VILLAGE ROYALE ● ● NAPAPIJRI CHANEL ● ● EMLING APC ●
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Place de la Madeleine
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ZARA HOME ● LIPAULT ● LA MAISON DU E CHOCOLAT ● IN
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BRITISH DESTOCK ● OBREY ● PETIT BATEAU ● COS ● SAINT JAMES ● KUJTEN ●
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LA CA PA F É D Place Opéra NA A IX ● E M CO P M AI ● BENETTON ● S M ON W BON ● BASLER ON A A B T SA T B DIVINE ● PRINCESSE R C O TA M S B L A I Z H ● N FRAGONARD ● ● TAM TAM G O N A● PHILIPPE CA HE NIT C ● B FERRANDIS ● U CH RT UER E ● ● CALIDA ER IER ● GOLFINO ● P.2 E R ● ● 5 COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS MAJE ● COTONNIERS ● ERIC BOMPARD ● RUE D AUNOU PE GAP ● ● OMEGA RI G ● BALLY Z A OT ● RA ● ● HARMONT & BLAINE B GA AB P Y ● HACKETT ● ● MANFIELD ● GANT E
MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● COLOMBINE ● SABON ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● CHARLES COTONAY ● SOPHIE FLORE ● EMLING ● AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●
MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ● MARIAGE FRERES ●
AU B
RUE
DEVERNOIS ●
RUE
RUE DE LA PAIX
● GAP
EMILE LÉON O J PERRIN HAVILAND / DAUM ARTHUS BERTRAND
Global Blue Lounge
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue
Metro
Global Blue Lounge
Café
Hotel
RUE DE
GUERLAIN ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●
S H O P | 47
S NE CI CA
PU
Place Opéra ● J A I M E M A S C A R O
● BENETTON
UL
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MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● A LANGE & SÖHNE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● POIRAY ● ALFRED DUNHILL ● MAUBOUSSIN ● GARLAND ●
MELLERIO ● TTF HAUTE JOAILLERIE ● PIAGET ●
RUE DE LA PAIX
Florals and femininity are the twin pillars of Giambattista Valli’s spring/summer 2020 collection. At its most feminine, the collection boasts white lace crop tops and midi skirts with a sculptural frill at the knee, off-the-shoulder prom dresses adorned with pink blooms and puffball sleeves, and ruffled maxidresses in shades of salmon. Elsewhere, however, there is a tougher edge, seen in pieces such as a sleek white suit with a biker jacket-style blazer appliquéd with purple and pink floral patches, or a classic trench with flower-themed embroidery. Whether you prefer to go all out with print and ruffles, or make a subtle nod to summer florals, Giambattista Valli has a garment for you. SM Giambattista Valli, Galerie de la Madeleine, 30 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4017 0588, giambattistavalli.com
Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix
BO
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
OFFICINE PANERAI ● IWC ●
AMIN KADER ●
● MARVELLA ● ROSSIGNO L ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● VANITY FAIR ● CHRISTOF LE ● BAUME ET MERCIER
● LERY ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF P.12 ● ANNE KERVALL COUTURE ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. ● GLASHÜTT E ORIGINAL ● DAUM VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN
BUCCELLATI ●
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BULGARI ● BAUMER ●
SCHIAPARELLI ● I ● ● ● N ER H IA TI IT M AR EN DA C Z Ritz Paris
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Place Vendôme
ROLEX ● JAEGER LECOULTRE ●
A N IE
● CHAUMET P.20 ● HUBLOT PATEK ● PHILIPPE ● MIKIMOTO ● DIOR ● BREGUET
FRED ●
CHOPARD ●
RUE SA INT- H ON O R É
PHOTO: YANNIS VLAMOS
SELECTED STORES IN RITZ PARIS: Concept Store Colombo Via Della Spiga Tasaki
globalblue.com
● LOUIS VUITTON
RUE SAIN T-HO NOR É
48 | G U I D E
Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle
● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER
ISABEL MARANT ●
● DIESEL
R U● MARIONNAUD EB
HUGO BOSS ●
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CARVEN ● IKKS ● IRO ●
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POIRAY ●
POM D’API ● DIAMANTISSIMO ● FREELANCE ● BILLIES MARKET ● IKKS ● LES MONTRES COLLECTOR ●
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DURANCE ● SHANG XIA ● BOBBI BROWN ●
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Metro
● LEICA
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Global Blue Retailer
● LONGINES ● LOSCO ● FREY WILLE ● CAFÉ COTON
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COCCINELLE ● TOD’S ●
COMPTOIR DES ● COTONNIERS
EV
KUJTEN ● LEON & HARPER ● UGG ● REINE ROSALIE ● SUGAR ● MELLOW YELLOW ● MANOUSH ● APRIATI ● MARINA RINALDI ●
RTE
E RE M CE M N O DE E É E H SSAT RU DR OIR G L A AN OT AN ICT IN EL GR MP RL ● V M L RC ER HA ● E A V C A IE IS ● M LI NG NT IE P AR ● O O RA D P ● L A AU O ● K L SM E ● C O N ● C ON ON PER ● V É M Y L A ● C ●
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ALEXANDRA SOJFER EDWARD GREEN SAVE THE QUEEN LOEWE GALERIE ISSEY MIYAKE
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● THE KOOPLES ● STEFAN GREEN GAP ● ● THE SLOWEAR STORE + STEFAN GREEN ● MONCLER DESCAMPS ● ● VANESSA SEWARD SAKARÉ ● ● RALPH LAUREN
● SONIA RYKIEL VIGNES ● APOSTROPH E ● RU ED PAULE KA ● ES ● ETRO SA KARL LAGERFELD ● IN TS FRAGONARD ● PÈ ● IL GUFO RE VERSUS ● S ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
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SAIN
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TARA JARMON ● CALZEDONIA ●
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COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ●
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COCCINELLE ●
BIE
CHRISTOFLE BIJOUX ●
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JO
RU E DU F OUR
THIERRY LASRY ●
Le Bon March é
Featured In This Issue
S H O P | 49
Rue Bonaparte
SK I ● SWAR OV HE ● AP OS TR OP ● FA BR IC E ● BE RT RA ND AR TH US ● DI NH VA N TR ES ● LE S M ON ER IN ● DI DI ER GU
The Medusa motif, long synonymous with the Versace brand, features prominently on the Medusa Frame timepiece, new for spring/summer 2020. The watch is available with a black or golden dial and a choice of straps. The dial, which has a circular surround studded with images of the snake-haired Gorgon, makes a striking statement on any wrist. SM Versace, 45 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4742 8802, versace.com
● AG AT HA ● SE IKO AR ● CI TY PH
R U E B O N A PARTE
A● M AX M AR AM .P M ● ● LO PO M AR C O‘ RE ST ● ST EL LA FO LA ● LO Y BI M BA ● BE RE NI CE FI NE ● ● S UT TS HA LE S PE TI IE RS LE S AT EL E ● LL AI M DE LA D● M OL IN AR RM É ● PI ER RE HE R● TE LA NC AS
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● CARTIER ● DEVERNOIS ● LANCEL ● ZARA ● X ● MONTBLANC I PR ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS O N ● ESTEBAN O M ● J M WESTON ● RU BY ● ● THE NINES EB X N ON G LE N ● I ● LE CREUSET A PA ● S O O E O RT E R D S ● D N O A N ZO S ● FT L ● NAPAPIJRI T L G EN ID E ● LO T ● MARCHAND DRAPIER E E K P K N P● LO A CK ● ICE WATCH GA A G N HA ● JB GUANTI M TE AN O T J ● SIMONE PERELE O RM ES X ● BO CONCEPT A IDE LL G G ● ● WEEKEND MAX MARA IN N B SE RD T L VA L I E O I R O M A ER RÉ F E RU L D ● S AU S ● E O R D ● ● A S W ● LEONIDAS I R ● ME EU UN RO ● U V ER ● BU ● SO SS ET RES ● E A A D YH E K ● É ● SE AD AR M C A O SAINT-SULPICE PE PÉP H T B ● O R T S R O UE R JON IN DE ● BA JI AM I ● FOSSIL SA S M ● H M A A ● S A I N YO YA C A P I F Y A R S N S TS ● ● S NOT LIP RO MO RI " ● PÈ É A ● A A S R ● I P RE ● M DR ● E YE ME B B A JA ● BRANDY MELVILLE ● E ● S AN ON Y "E OM SA R E ● RY RI ● M ST ● TA H EO B GE M NY E ● H ● E N T F TE O ● GEOX JO E LI E A ● N IR Y ● E & E E JO NET B AD R AM VA UL ● O IQU AIN ● HENRY PHILIPPE JA TO O ● PR ET L & GI PA E DR UT NT 78 A U L ● M N V G O O L GA N PA LE SA B B E F N B ER N SO SA R A ● ● I ● O N O R N A T ● R ’S ● AN E V TE RIZ M E EN X FE LL ● DY ● IAN RS D F RD NE E UR MA ● D F U AU FO RE RU LI L A RT AV A T ● I EG K ● T R D M I S IN ● E A LA G X N PO M I D ● H RU U ● TB N SA S ● DJ H A N AN AI AC ● ● S M IER ● SC AL ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● R TO SE ER AR HIS RO D ● LI ● TE L B EP AN IE 'A L M L L Y L DA H A AU C
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globalblue.com
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TRAnSlATIOnS
中文翻译
无 论是 超大 型还是 超 小型手 袋,本季 都 在巴黎 时装 秀上大 放异彩。SHOP的 高级 时装编 辑 Lucinda Turner向我们展 示了她在 2020春夏的心水 之 选 2018年,Simon Porte Jacquemus在 Instagram上 发布了他的同名品牌 Jacquemus的广告,宣传 该 品牌 春夏 La Bomba系列。广告中,海滩 上 的 模 特戴 着 超 大 遮阳帽,身旁 却 是 一 个如此 小的手 袋,以 至于 一些时尚 评论 家觉 得这 或许 是 个 玩 笑。两年后,这 些时尚 评论 家该 被 笑话了。 Jacquemus当年 做 的其 实是 一 种 新 趋 势,这 种 玩 转夸张比例 的趋 势在 2020年春夏期间被 广 泛认可。时尚并非 绑定 在实用性 上,而这 正是 使 时尚风 潮 如此令人 着 迷 的众多因素之 一,Jacquemus的小 手 袋 就 证明了这一点。 这个法国品牌并 没有止步 于 一 个 超 小 型手 袋 系列。2019春夏系列包括 近年来出现 的最大 尺寸 编 织 袋,而本 季的夏天 款 式手 袋 如此 小, 上图:Valentino 2020春夏
以 至于 连一枚 欧 元 硬币都 可能 装不 下。Le Chiquito和2020春夏的Le Petit Chiquito已成 为 该品牌 最 著名和 辨 识 度 最高的配饰。这个小 巧 的包包 在世界 各地 的时装 周上都 被目光 捕 捉 到,真正颂 扬了时装可以带来的乐趣 和潇 洒。 而且 这 种 精神已 经被 更多品牌发 扬 光大。 Valentino就 是其中品牌 之一,在 2019年 美国 音乐 奖 颁奖 典 礼 上,Valentino与互联网恶 搞 平 台Obvious Plant合作 打造了 VSling包的超 小版 本。这 款手 袋由音乐家 Lizzo随 身携 带,一夜之 间引起了全网轰动 效 应,尽管 这是 一 个 玩 具,而 且 并不发售,但 这昙花一 现 的小东西依然 助 推 了这一 趋 势。 在尺子 的另一 端,由一 位平面设 计师经 营的 Instagram帐 号Big Bag Club,则专注于将网红 所 持 手 袋 的尺寸夸张放 大,并重 新 张贴他们 的照 片。截 至2020年1月,这个账 号已吸引了超 过 27, 000名关注者。该 帐 号的最初灵 感 来源于秀 场上 越 来越多的超 大手 袋,现 在 则为 设 计师们
照片: © GORUNWAY.COM
28: CARRIED TO EXTREMES 极限手袋之美
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提 供了一 个机会来审 视 其作品在 放 大 后会 是 什 么样。随 着流行文化向这两个极 端不断推 进, 难怪2020年春夏时装 秀上,到处可见 超 大 型和 超 小 型的配饰 设 计。 对 于 超 大 设 计,柔 软休闲的款 式占绝 对主导 地位。在 纪梵 希(Givenchy),亮点是 手拿包。 近年来,经典手拿包 卷土 重 来,纪梵 希的Clare Waight Keller决定 利用这 种 增 长趋 势。醒目的 格 纹单色设 计以 及 柔 软皮革制成 的典 雅黑色、 灰色 和深 红色 小 包 被 带到了 T台上,随 后出现 的两个 超 大手 袋同样以手拿 方 式登场。就像 Waight Keller在 纪梵 希的许 多 创作一样,这 些 手 袋 是为生活 繁 忙 的真实女 性而设 计 的。它们 不 仅看 起 来时尚,而且 还 可以轻松 容 纳笔记 本 电 脑、重要 会 议 的笔记以 及日常所 需 的所有 其 他 物品。 在 爱马 仕(Hermès),超 大配饰 也 展 示出很 强的实用性,与该品牌 的中等尺寸 经典皮革手 袋 一 起 展 示。以 爱马 仕 丝巾图案为灵 感 的超 大 号波西米 亚 风 格单肩包,非常适合搭配 精 美 的 度假 和都 市服 装。一只 超 大 号 爱马 仕手 袋 既 可 以放 置优 雅 的 沙滩 毛巾,也 适合日常去面包店 逛 逛,一定会成 为 今 年夏天 最 时尚的配饰。 在 Jacquemus和三宅一生(Issey Miyake)秀 场上,一些 超 大 号的手 袋 象征 着实用性,而过 大的手 袋 则带 有明显 的谐 趣。三宅一生 用红色 和青 绿 色 的流 苏编 织 袋 为当季 最具 活力的时装 秀更添 生机 和动感,而 Jacquemus则 玩 转法国传 统 篮 子 袋 的比例,让 超 大 号的袋 子与超 小号的 袋 子混 搭 在一 起 。 Valentino也 在 2020春夏 玩 转配饰尺寸 的两端 极限。该品牌 的VSling和 Rockstud手 袋 的微 型 版 本 在巴 黎 秀 场上伴 随 着 色 彩 亮丽的 礼 服裙, 款 款 登台,不 像曾在 美国音乐大奖 上 展 示的那 只小 包那 么昙花一 现。优 雅 的白色 皮革水 桶 包 上 装饰 着羽毛,更是下一季魅力配饰 的代 表之 作。 法国传 统品牌 珑 骧(Longchamp)是 迷你包 潮流 的坚 定倡导 者,为备 受喜爱的Pliage包推出 了“nano”版 本。在 春夏时装 秀之后,Vogue. com 问 艺 术总监 Sophie Delafontaine,这 样 一 个小袋 子里可以放什么 东西。“一 张 信用卡,因为 您 是 独 立的女人,还有口红,因为 您非常有女人味。 除 此 之外,您 还需要 什么?” Delafontaine回答。 无 论是 确 保日常生活 的实用性,还 是 追 赶潮 流,抑或 只是为了给2020年春夏 服 饰 融 入 欢 乐 元 素,巴 黎的时装 秀 都为你 划定了选购范围:极 端尺寸 的手 袋 是下一季的必 备 品。超 小号或 超 大 号的手 袋( 无论 哪 个在 您的当季购物清单前 列),绝 对会为 您的造 型增添 极 致 魅力。 globalblue.com
Scan the QR code to subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services. Receive the latest shopping and tax refund information. Track and manage your refund, and get §online customer service and other tax refund services.
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50: WhEn YOu ShOp ThE WORlD, ShOp TAX FREE 畅购全球,尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时,环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务(Global Blue Tax Free Shopping)为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名游 客 享用环 球 蓝联(Global Blue)的购物 退 税 服 务,何不加入 他们 的行列?您只需 在 购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 (Global Blue)的蓝 星标 志,或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供环 球 蓝联(Global Blue)退 税 服 务,然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税流 程即 可: 1. 购物 消费 无论 您 在哪里 购物,请向商家索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并 保存 好购物票 据。 2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前,请 前往 海 关柜台,出示 退 税 表格和 相关票 据,获 取海 关印章,然 后再到环 球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方式: taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费175. 01欧 元即 可申请 退 税,能 够 节省 高达购买 商品 价12%的税。请注 意:您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝联 的手 续费。 如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税,部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申 请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。
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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 28: CARRIED TO EXTREMES ЭКСТРЕМАЛЬНЫЕ МЕРЫ
В этом сезоне на парижских подиумах можно было увидеть сумки самых разных размеров: от невероятно больших до крошечных. Редактор отдела моды SHOP Люсинда Тернер сделала обзор сезона весна-лето 2020 В 2018 году Симон Порт-Жакмю опубликовал в Instagram рекламную кампанию своей линии Jacquemus и коллекции весна-лето под названием La Bomba. На фотографиях, сделанных на фоне моря, красовались модели в соломенных шляпах с гигантскими полями, а в руках у них были настолько маленькие сумки, что некоторые модные эксперты посмеивались, думая, что это розыгрыш. Прошло два года и подобная картина уже ни у кого не вызывает смеха. Жакмю дал начало новому тренду на эксперименты с пропорциями, который не утратил своей актуальности вплоть до показов весна-лето 2020. Одно из преимуществ моды заключается в том, что она не ограничена рамками практичности, и крохотные сумки Jacquemus отличный тому пример. Однако французский бренд решил не останавливаться на миниатюрной коллекции сумок. Сезон весна-лето 2019 ознаменовал появление сумок-гигантов, а этим летом мы увидели микроскопические сумки, в которые навряд ли поместится даже пятирублевая монета. Модели Le Chiquito и Le Petit Chiquito из коллекции весна-лето 2020 стали наиболее успешными и узнаваемыми аксессуарами бренда. Это крохотная сумка, замеченная на Неделях моды по всему миру, стала настоящим торжеством свободы и самоиронии современной моды. Эту тенденцию охотно подхватили сразу несколько модных домов. Одним из таких домов является Valentino. Специально для церемонии вручения премии American Music Awards 2019 бренд выпустил миниатюрную версию сумки VSling в сотрудничестве с Instagram-пользователем Obvious Plant. Сумка, которую продемонстрировал музыкант globalblue.com
Lizzo, мгновенно стала интернет-сенсацией. И хотя она была игрушечной и не поступала в продажу, ее появление подлило еще больше масла в огонь новой тенденции. Не меньшего интереса заслуживает Instagram-аккаунт Big Bag Club. Его ведет графический дизайнер, который редактирует фотографии знаменитых блогеров, увеличивая их сумки до комичных размеров. По состоянию на январь 2020 года он собрал более 27 000 подписчиков. На такое творчество дизайнера вдохновил растущий тренд на сумки оверсайз, и теперь он демонстрирует модным брендам, как бы выглядели их творения в увеличенном размере. После всплеска популярности аксессуаров нестандартного размера в поп-культуре, показы весна-лето 2020 запестрили сумками самых невероятных размеров. В категории оверсайз преобладали в основном сумки мешковатой формы. В Givenchy решили начать эксперименты с клатчей. В последние годы классические клатчи стали возвращаться в моду, и Клэр Уэйт Келлер просто не смогла пройти мимо набирающего обороты тренда. Ее показ включал классические модели в черном, сером и темно-красном цвете в сочетании с монохромным узором в клетку, а также две модели оверсайз, которые носили так, словно это были клатчи. Как и многие другие коллекции Уэйт Келлер для Givenchy, эти сумки предназначались для реальных женщин с насыщенным графиком. Они не только имеют привлекательный внешний вид, но и практичный дизайн, который позволяет поместить в них ноутбук, ежедневник и другие вещи, которыми мы пользуемся изо дня в день. В Hermès фактор практичности также сыграл не последнюю роль при создании коллекции аксессуаров оверсайз и классических кожаных сумок. Крупные наплечные сумки хобо, вдохновленные шелковыми шарфами Hermès, сочетались и с пляжными, и с городскими образами. Сумка-тоут XXL Hermès, которая одинаково шикарно смотрится как на набережной, так и в центре города, несомненно, станет стильным хитом этого лета. Для таких брендов, как Jacquemus и Issey Miyake формат оверсайз стал не только практичным решением, но и лишней возможностью повеселиться. Issey Miyake показал одно из
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Парижские подиумы пытаются убедить нас в том, что сумки нестандартных размеров – это обязательный аксессуар года. Возможно, они хотят внести больше прагматизма в нашу жизнь, или поддержать новый тренд, или просто разнообразить сезон весна-лето 2020. Но независимо от того, на что падет ваш выбор – сумку оверсайз или миниатюрную модель, – такой аксессуар точно произведет впечатление на окружающих.
50: WhEn YOu ShOp ThE WORlD, ShOp TAX FREE
ФОТО: © gorunway.com
СОВЕРшАя ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРшАЙТЕ Их С Tax Free
самых динамичных шоу сезона, представив плетеные сумки с бахромой в оттенках красного и бирюзового, в то время, как Jacquemus экспериментировал с традиционной французской корзиной, демонстрируя большие и маленькие размеры одновременно. Valentino также упустил из виду новый тренд, представив коллекцию аксессуаров весна-лето 2020. Правда, на этот раз обошлось без игрушечных сумок, как в случае с American Music Awards. На показе в Париже миниатюрные версии моделей VSling и Rockstud сочетались с яркими вечерними платьями, а элегантные кожаные сумки-ведра белого цвета были украшены многочисленными перьями. Французский дом Longchamp, ярый сторонник тренда на мини-сумки, представил «нано» версии популярной сумки Pliage. После весенне-летнего показа корреспондент Vogue. com поинтересовался у художественного руководителя Софи Делафонтейн о том, что же можно хранить в такой сумке. «Кредитную карту, потому что вы всегда должны оставаться независимой женщиной, и помаду, потому что вы очень женственны. А больше ничего не нужно», – ответила Делафонтен. Сверху: сумка Hermès весна-лето 2020
Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине
Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде
Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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يف ما يتعلّق بالحقائب الضخمة ،طغت املوديالت الطريّة املرتهّلة .اعتمدت Givenchyهذا األسلوب يف حقائب الكالتش .عاد هذا النوع من الحقائب الكالسيكيّة ليربز بق ّوة يف السنوات األخرية ،فق ّررت Clare Waight Kellerيف Givenchyأن تستكشف هذه املوضة الرائجة .ظهرت املنصة حقيبة أحاديّة اللّون ذات ٍ نقش مربّع باإلضافة عىل ّ إىل حقائب صغرية من الجلد الطري باللّون األسود والرمادي واألحمر الداكن .ث ّم ظهرت حقيبتا يد ضخمتان ُح ِملتا وكأنّهام كالتش .عىل غرار الكثري من ابتكارات Waight Keller لـ ُ ،Givenchyص ّممت هذه الحقائب للنساء الحقيقيّات العامالت .فهي ليست أنيقة فحسب ،بل أيضاً مص ّممة لتتّسع بسهولة لجهاز محمول ولدفرت مالحظات وألغراض أخرى تُحمل بشكلٍ يومي. ّ وكذلك لدى ،Hermèsلعب عنرص العمليّة دورا ً أساسيّاً يف تصميم األكسسوارات املبالغ بحجمها و ُعرضت إىل املتوسطة الحجم. جانب حقائب اليد الجلديّة الكالسيكيّة ّ ِ استوحيت حقائب الكتف بأسلوب الهوبو من الحرير املنقوش يف وشاح Hermèsون ُّسقت مع تشكيلة من مالبس البحر واألزياء العمليّة .نظرا ً إىل أنّه ميكن حشو حقيبة XXL Hermèsمبناشف بحر فاخرة أو حملها للذهاب إىل املخبز؛ إنّها بدون أدىن ّ شك أجمل قطعة أكسسوار هذا الصيف. يف حني اعتُ ِربت بعض الحقائب الضخمة عمليّة كام هو الحال لدى Jacquemusو ،Issey Miyakeاقرتنت بحس الفكاهة الواضحة .أضفى حقائب كبرية مبالغ بحجمها ّ Issey Miyakeالحيويّة والحركة عىل أحد أكرث عروض املوسم ديناميكيّة من خالل حقائب محبوكة مزخرفة بحوايش بلوين األحمر والفريوزي .أ ّما ،Jaquemusفتالعب بأحجام القش الفرنسيّة التقليديّة ،مازجاً بني الحقائب الضخمة حقيبة ّ والحقائب متناهية الصغر. وقد ص ّمم Valentinoأكسسوارات ربيع/صيف 2020بأحجام متناقضة متاماً .ليست صغرية بقدر الحقيبة التي أطلقت يف حفل جوائز املوسيقى األمريكيّة ،لكن برزت مناذج صغرية عن حقيبتي VSlingو Rockstudإىل منصة عرض أزيائها يف جانب أثواب بألوان مرشقة عىل ّ باريس وأكّدت حقائب باكيت الجلديّة األنيقة البيضاء املزيّنة بالريش ،عىل أهميّة األكسسوارات يف املوسم املقبل. كام تجدر اإلشارة إىل منارص قوي ملوضة الحقيبة الصغرية وهو الدار الفرنيس العريق Longchampالذي ق ّدم مناذج “متناهية ِ الصغر” عن حقيبة Pliageالشهرية لديه .بعد عرض ربيع/صيف ،2020سأل موقع Vogue.comمديرة عام ميكن وضعه اإلنتاج الف ّني ّ Sophie Delafontaine داخل هكذا حقيبة صغرية .فأجابت“ :بطاقة ائتامنك ألنّك امرأة مستقلّة دوماً وأحمر الشفاه ألنّك تنبضني باألنوثة .ماذا تريدين غري ذلك؟” للحفاظ عىل العمليّة أو مجارا ًة للموضة أو ببساطة إلضفاء طابع الفرح عىل تصاميم ربيع/صيف ،2020 منصات العرض يف باريس أنّه ال ب ّد من حمل استخلصت ّ حقائب بأحجام مبالغة يف املوسم القادم .إن كنت تنوين رشاء حقيبة فائقة الصغر أو ضخمة ،تأكّدي أنّها ستلفت االنتباه”. (يف األعىل )من اليمنيGivenchy :؛ Longchamp 2020كالهام ربيع/صيف
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عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل، تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من 300,000متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل. فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينام تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت. .2أطلب يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب االسرتداد ّ لالتّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره 175.01يورو وادّخر حتّى 12%من مثن
مشرتياتك .يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري .يف بعض املطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي.
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية
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أحجام ُمبالغة
بأحجامها الضخمة أو املتناهية الصغر ،خطفت حقائب اليد منصات عرض األزياء يف باريس هذا املوسم. األضواء عىل ّ تتحدّ ث ،L u c i n d a Tu r n e rكبرية مح ّرري املوضة لدى ،SHOPعن أبرز ما اختارته لربيع/صيف 2020 يف العام ،2018أطلق Simon Porte Jacquemus حمل ًة عىل إنستغرام لعالمة Jacquemusالتي تحمل إسمه .خ ُّصصت الحملة ملجموعة La Bombaملوسم
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الربيع/الصيف ومتثّلت بعارضة أزياء عىل شاطئ البحر، تعتمر قبّعة كبرية للغاية وإىل جانبها حقيبة يد صغرية للغاية .وقد تساءل بعض نقّاد املوضة إن كانت مزحة .م ّرت سنتان وامتثل الجميع للمزحة .فام أطلقه Jacquemus كان موضة جديدة نراها اليوم يف سائر عروض ربيع/صيف 2020؛ وهي موضة التالعب باألحجام املبالغ فيها .وتجدر اإلشارة هنا إىل أ ّن عدم تقيّد املوضة بالعمليّة هو أحد العناص املتع ّددة التي متيّزها وقد برهنت ذلك حقائب Jacquemusالصغرية للغاية. مل تكتفي العالمة الفرنسيّة مبجموعة واحدة من الحقائب املتناهية الصغر .شملت مجموعة ربيع/صيف 2019بعض أكرب الحقائب املحبوكة عىل اإلطالق يف السنوات األخرية وض ّمت تشكيلة هذا الصيف حقائب فائقة الصغر ،بالكاد تتّسع لعمل ٍة معدنيّة .بات تصميم Le Chiquitoوالتصميم الجديد لربيع/صيف Le 2020 ،Petit Chiquitoالحقيبة األشهر لدى العالمةُ .حملت هذه الحقيبة الصغرية يف أسابيع املوضة حول العامل وهي خري تجسيد للفرح واملرح الذي تولّده املوضة؛ وقد اعتمدت ع ّدة دور أزياء األسلوب نفسه .نذكر منها Valentino الذي تعاون يف حفل جوائز املوسيقى األمريكيّة للعام 2019 مع صانع املقالب Obvious Plantالبتكار نسخة فائقة الصغر عن حقيبة .VSlingحملتها الف ّنانة Lizzoخالل الحفل وما لبثت أن انتشت بليل ٍة وضحاها عىل اإلنرتنت. مخصصة للبيع ،استم ّر عىل الرغم من أنّها مج ّرد لعبة وغري ّ هذا التصميم املتناهي الصغر يف ترويج املوضة. من جه ٍة أخرى ،يدير مص ّمم غرافييك حساباً عىل إنستغرام باسم ،Big Bag Clubيقوم بإعادة نش صور مؤث ّرين يحملون نسخاً مضخّمة للغاية عن حقائبهم األصليّة .ويف كانون الثان/يناير ،2020تخطّى عدد متابعيه ِ استوح ًي الحساب أساساً من موضة حقائب اليد 27ألف. الضخمة ومينح املص ّممني اليوم الفرصة ل َريوا ابتكاراتهم بأحجام كبرية للغاية .نتيجة تنامي ثقافة الحقائب املبالغ منصات بحجمها ،برزت تصاميم فائقة الكرب أو الصغر عىل ّ عرض ربيع/صيف .2020
So u v e n i r
Fringe Benefits
Parisian brand Roger Vivier’s spring/summer 2020 collection is all about fantasy. Inspired by the worlds of theatre, musicals and cabaret, each piece encapsulates a sense of glamour and fun, with none more so than the Tiki Viv’ mini bag. The style, introduced this season, features handles in the shape of the label’s R and V initials, along with a practical chain strap. The miniature bucket design is perfect for both the city and the beach. As well as more demure colours such as black, silver and beige, Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
the bag is available in electric blue and bright turquoise suede, along with three extra-special versions embellished with feathers and straw fringes. Whether you opt for pink, yellow, or the pictured lilac, this bag is certain to make a statement wherever it is taken. LT Roger Vivier Tiki Viv’ mini bag, €1,200, Roger Vivier, 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0085, rogervivier.com H fOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
2000 Lifestyle Brands in the main building for home and household – A 5 storey-store for men’ fashion – A trendy Rooftop – Marais Guided Tours Personal Shopper – VIP Lounge – Restaurants Tax refund – Deliveries. Part of an ecosytem with an art Fondation Lafayette Anticipations and the concept store Eataly dedicated to Italian Cuisine. LE BHV MARAIS & LE PERCHOIR MARAIS 52 rue de Rivoli, Paris 4th / 00 (33) 9 77 40 14 00 M L1 & 11 Monday to Saturday 9.30 am - 8.00 pm Sunday 11.00 am - 7.30 pm bhv.fr
Special offer
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THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES
12, BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES – PARIS 9E bucherer.com