SHOP Paris Luxury SS19

PARIS | 巴黎 | ПАРИЖ | ‫باريس‬

PARIS Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2019

EXPLORE PARIS: the essential guide to the very best of Europe’s elegant fashion capital

A STYLISH RENAISSANCE: discover the key trends from Paris Fashion Week TABLE TALK: our pick of Paris’s top seafood restaurants

6

EDITOR’S LETTER

Austria Barcelona Belgium Copenhagen Germany

‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lebanon London Madrid Milan Oslo Paris

巴黎 Portugal

Welcome to Paris

Prague Rome Stockholm Switzerland

@环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 @globalblue @globalblue.ru @shopmagazine＿ /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue

EMMA CHEEVERS

/globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this alluring European capital, the epitome of chic and one of the most stylish cities in the world. Paris has much to offer, as our guide on page 45 reveals. Don’t miss our feature on this season’s key looks from Paris Fashion Week (page 28), while on page 34 we profile the influential heritage French fashion houses enjoying a 21st-century renaissance.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France.

We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Paris. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, to find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.

For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

8

CONTRIBUTORS JACK HUGHES

LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London before pursuing a career in publishing. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of several titles, including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire. globalblue.com

FANI MARI SHOP’s deputy fashion editor Fani Mari moved from Greece to London to study journalism and psychology at City University, and has also completed a master’s degree in fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. Her interests include photography and art.

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s news editor, studied English Literature at the University of Glasgow and then took an MA in fashion journalism at the London College of Fashion.

Before joining SHOP, she worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number international publications.

ILLUSTRATION: JACK HUGHES; PHOTO: (MIDDLE) VANITYSTUDIOS.CO.UK

Jack Hughes brings his distinctive style of fashion illustration to the cover of this season’s edition of SHOP Paris Luxury. The image depicts an elegantly dressed couple walking the red carpet on an ornate Parisian staircase at a star-studded event. Jack’s other clients include Harrods, Burberry and Montblanc.

Discover SHOP Paris and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

10

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Jack Hughes Contributor Virginie Morawski Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture Assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Social media strategy and branded partnerships manager Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editor Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik

G LO B A L B L U E F R A N C E Country manager Yan Mortreux Marketing sales manager Cristina Sirinelli Marketing coordinator Quentin Dupont Global Blue France, Immeuble Kléber, 103-105 rue Anatole France, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Midweight designer Kiranjeet Kaur Junior designer Tatjiana Antoniou Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue

MAXMARA.COM PARIS - 100, Av. Paul Doumer - 37, Rue du Four - 31, Av. Montaigne - 408/410, Rue St. Honoré

CONTENTS CHECK OUT 14

10 QUESTIONS ...

26

ESSENTIALS 58

SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season

… with Valérie Messika, founder of the Messika jewellery brand

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

EXPERIENCE 40

TRANSLATIONS 60 中文翻 译 63 Русский Перевод 72 ‫ترجمة باللّغة العربيّة‬

PRODUCTS 16 Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

SHOP WINDOW 22 We take a look inside the new Saint-Honoré Billionaire boutique

NEWS 23

Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Table Talk France’s bountiful seafood is a treat for visitors to Paris. Virginie Morawski suggests some of the city’s best fish restaurants

PARIS GUIDE 45

SOUVENIR 74 The essential item to bring home

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

74

Contemporary styles, gender-fluid garments, beach-ready designs and spectacular show locations stood out at Paris Fashion Week. Fani Mari reports on the key looks for spring/summer 2019

34

A STYLISH RENAISSANCE 34 Influential French fashion houses of yesteryear are ripe for renewal. Ginger Rose Clark profiles the prestigious names that are back in the limelight

Above (from left): backstage at Schiaparelli haute couture; Yvonne Léon earrings make a perfect souvenir of Paris

PHOTO: (RIGHT) DAVID SANTINI/PRESTIGE PACKSHOT

FEATURES CREAM OF THE CATWALKS 28

CHECK OUT

FLOWER POWER Since Nicolas Ghesquière presented his first collection for Louis Vuitton in 2014, the brand has become known for taking inspiration from its 165-year heritage to create something new, modern and highly covetable. For spring/ summer 2019 Ghesquière turned his attention to the elegant Capucines bag, creating five new incarnations of the style in raffia, woven leather, tweed, sequins and the pictured 3D floral design. A contemporary take on the Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 58

classic black model, the bright pop of woven silk flowers will instantly brighten up any ensemble, while the compact size makes this the perfect piece, day or night. lt Louis Vuitton bag, €5,500, Louis Vuitton, 22 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 4700, louisvuitton.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 49

16 | P R O D U C T S

Givenchy sunglasses, €270, Givenchy, 28 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4268 3100, givenchy.com

De Fursac jumper, €185, De Fursac, 146 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4325 4066, defursac.fr

OUT OF THE BLUE

Jimmy Choo pouch, €595, Jimmy Choo, 34 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 0339, jimmychoo.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 58

Ami jeans, €175, Ami, 14 rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 8244 4020, amiparis.com

Burberry belt, €320, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com

PHOTO: (POUCH) RICHARD VALENCIA

Choose fresh tones of blue and white for your wardrobe staples this season

S H O P | 17

Lanvin wallet, €275, Lanvin, 15 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4471 3125, lanvin.com

PHOTO: (WATCH) GÜNTER BRINKMANN

Berluti coat, €7,950, Berluti, 9 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 5786, berluti.com

Prada bag, €1,350, Prada, 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 6330, prada.com

globalblue.com

Wempe watch, €3,375, Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com

Ermenegildo Zegna trainers, €895, Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com

18 | P R O D U C T S

Bulgari bag, €2,800, Bulgari, 25 Place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 0050, bulgari.com Paule Ka bag, €420, Paule Ka, 223 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4297 5706, pauleka.com

PYTHON

POWER

Snakeskin is huge news for spring/ summer 2019 and an elegant handbag is the perfect way to incorporate the print into your wardrobe

Longchamp bag, €490, Longchamp, 404 rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4316 0016, longchamp.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 58

Mulberry bag, €1,450, Mulberry, 275 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 0064, mulberry.com

PHOTO: (LONGCHAMP) CHRISTOPHE PETITEAU

Tod’s bag, €2,200, Tod’s, 17 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 1616, tods.com

RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect places to relax during your shopping trip. Situated in the most fashionable areas of the world’s shopping capitals, the invitation only lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.

Florence Piazza della Repubblica 6, 50123

Munich MaximilianstraĂ&#x;e 30, 80539

London 18-19 Albemarle St, W1S 4BB

Paris 4 rue Cambon, 75001

Madrid Calle de Claudio Coello 83, 28001

Rome Piazza di Spagna 29, 00187

Milan Via Santo Spirito 5, 20121

Venice Piscina S. Moise, 30124

20 | P R O D U C T S

Celine by Hedi Slimane bag, €2,300, Celine, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4070 0703, celine.com

Acne Studios T-shirt, €100, Acne Studios, 3 rue Froissart, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4996 9691, acnestudios.com

THE NEW NEUTRAL

Piaget bracelet, from €69,000, Piaget, 16 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3280, piaget.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 58

Joseph skirt, €745, Joseph, 27 rue de Passy, 75016 Paris, +33 (0)1 4524 2432, joseph-fashion.com

PHOTO: (T-SHIRT) ACNE STUDIOS

Classic tailoring and a palette of cream, nude, camel and white are your best friends for the season ahead

S H O P | 21

Max Mara sunglasses, €220, Max Mara, 31 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 6113, maxmara.com

Cartier watch, €26,400, Cartier, 13 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 2300, cartier.com

Bucherer ring, €1,550, Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7099 1888, bucherer.com

PHOTO: (WATCH) CARTIER

Tara Jarmon jacket, €330, Le BHV Marais, 52 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)9 7740 1400, tarajarmon.com

Miu Miu shoes, €650, Miu Miu, 1 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com

globalblue.com

Escada earrings, €399, Escada, 2 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4289 8345, escada.com

SHOP WINDOW

Billionaire opened its boutique on rue Saint-Honoré towards the end of 2018. At this prestigious address, located around the corner from place Vendôme, you can immerse yourself in the world of the luxury menswear brand.

A dark colour scheme with gold accents, complemented by marble, steel and glass features, is completed by an imposing golden statue of the Billionaire lion. The heritage of Italian craftsmanship is central to the brand’s Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 58

luxury designs: taking a step away from the conventional suit, Billionaire offers an extravagant wardrobe for confident men who are not afraid to express who they are through their attire. grc Billionaire, 362-364 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, billionaire.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50

PHOTO: XXXXXXX FSEGUIN

RICH HERITAGE

S H O P | 23

SHOP HIGHLIGHT SAINT LAURENT

Since Saint Laurent was founded in 1961, the house has typified contemporary Parisian glamour. Different personalities come together in Anthony Vaccarello’s eclectic spring/summer collection for the label. Each look is an expression of a dynamic individuality created by mixing elements of different decades. Boyish silhouettes hold a feminine confidence, while tailoring from the 60s interpreted in jersey renews the traditional couture approach. The resulting collection underlines Saint Laurent’s never-ending ability to exemplify elegant dressing.

Saint Laurent, 38 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 7459, ysl.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 50

SWEET TALK Harry Winston recently unveiled the new Winston Candy collection of cocktail rings, drawing on the world of confectionery.

Finding an echo in the sweet shades of precious gems, the collection features mandarin garnets, tourmalines and pastel-hued sapphires in its one-of-a-kind pieces. Archive sketches from the mid 20th century served as inspiration, but Winston Candy adds a very modern twist. It is defined by modern designs that play with colours, proportions and technique.

Fancy-shaped stones are paired with round brilliants, for example, while colours are combined in exciting ways. Beautifully elegant, the Winston Candy designs are a sweet celebration of the wonderfully colourful world of gems. grc Harry Winston, 29 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 0309, harrywinston.com SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent

24 | N E W S

SPIRIT OF SUMMER

The Sonia Rykiel spring/summer collection celebrates everyday life in Paris, the city to which the brand inherently belongs. Key pieces include marinière tops, oversized sweaters, knit dresses and trenches, as well as the Baltard and Market bags. The spring/summer 2019 show became a historic moment: to celebrate the late designer, Paris has named a street after her. Allée Sonia Rykiel is home to an organic market frequented by the brand’s artistic director Julie de Libran.

When you visit Saint Germaindes-Prés, be sure to wander along Sonia Rykiel’s namesake street before heading to her boutique. grc Sonia Rykiel, 175 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4954 6060, soniarykiel.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54 Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 58

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 49

PHOTO: (RIGHT) STANISLAS WOLFF

SONIA RYKIEL MAKES HISTORY

For spring/summer 2019, Chloé’s creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi presents a collection that conjures up a free-spirited, modern-hippie feel. Age-old fabrics such as silk, ikat, linen and plissé mousseline provide plenty of texture in a collection of dreamy dresses, tunics, light knits, flared trousers worn with twisted silk lariat belts and chunky mules. The new Chloé C bag is a must-have piece for the season, with its boxy shape and statement C-shaped hardware. The bag is presented in various sizes and colourways, from classic shades of beige and black to neon degradés, as seen in the pictured Mini Chloé C bag in pink and purple on embossed croc-effect calfskin (€1,290). grc Chloé, 50 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 0008, chloe.com

SHOP SPOTLIGHT

S H O P | 26

PHOTO: THOMAS PADILLA

BUCHERER Founded in 1888, family-run Bucherer has achieved global recognition for its outstanding expertise in watchmaking and jewellery, both with its own creations and as a distinguished retailer of the world’s best luxury watch brands.

Situated between boulevard Haussmann and place Vendôme, the maison’s Paris boutique is a must-visit address: Bucherer occupies a beautiful corner building, a carefully preserved classified historic monument, where you’ll find an impressive 2,200 square metres dedicated to fine watches. Spread over three floors, the elegant interiors are home to over 30 brands, each with its own personalised corner: Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Rolex, Longines, Tissot, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin are just some of the SHOP Spotlight in paid partnership with Bucherer

names to be discovered here. The boutique also carries Bucherer’s own watch brand, Carl F. Bucherer (pictured), which exemplifies the maison’s remarkable watchmaking savoir faire, alongside the Bucherer Fine Jewellery collection, which features some of the world’s most precious stones in beautiful designs. Besides expert advice from knowledgeable, multilingual staff, you can also make the most of in-store watchmaking workshop and repairs services at the Paris boutique. This prestigious address, the world’s largest store dedicated to luxury timepieces, is a true reflection of Bucherer’s unparalleled status in Swiss watchmaking.

Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 70 99 1888, bucherer.com

10 QUESTIONS:

VALÉRIE MESSIKA Since Messika launched 14 years ago, it has been the go-to jeweller for cool young Parisians.

Lucinda Turner caught up with founder Valérie Messika to ask about bringing diamonds out of the vault, designing for courageous women – and just how many pieces Beyoncé took on tour

1.

HOW HAS THE BRAND CHANGED SINCE IT WAS FOUNDED IN 2005?

Messika has grown all around the world. When I founded Messika, most women only wore diamonds in their engagement rings or for very traditional evening wear. It was commonly thought of as a stone to wear when a woman was older. I really wanted to break down age or style barriers. I create double finger rings, hand bracelets, triple finger rings and ear cuffs in both my fine and high jewellery collections.

YOUR FATHER IS ALSO IN THE DIAMOND BUSINESS. WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU LEARNED FROM HIM? I worked alongside him for five years, learning every aspect of the industry. My father taught me to always be humble, never ever copy someone’s work, stay focused on diamonds and keep your integrity intact.

HOW DOES PARIS INFLUENCE YOUR DESIGNS? Paris is the most beautiful city in the world and for me, it is an inexhaustible source of inspiration.

Parisian architecture in particular is so inspiring, as we find ourselves in the heart of history every day. I love admiring French craftsmanship and design in each street and building.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE MESSIKA WOMAN? The Messika woman is the woman of today, sometimes mysterious, daring and courageous.

Women inspire me with their individuality and their confidence. My pieces are not created to stay in a safe. If I can give one piece of advice to all women, it’s to wear their jewellery in everyday life.

2.

4.

Above: the Messika boutique on rue Saint-Honoré

YOUR COLLABORATION WITH GIGI HADID HAS BEEN IMMENSELY SUCCESSFUL. HOW DID THAT COME ABOUT? She is the perfect incarnation of the Messika woman, owing to her modern approach, her simplicity and her love of fashion. She is spontaneous and bright, filled with energy and light. In the first collection, we asked Gigi to find an idea around the Move collection, to celebrate its 10th anniversary. Everything went so well that the second collection was meant to be.

IF A FIRST-TIME MESSIKA CUSTOMER WANTED TO BUY JUST ONE PIECE, WHICH WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? The Move collection, as it is my most iconic.

When I was a little girl my father would bring home incredible diamonds and would let me play with them. The three moving diamonds of my Move collection were inspired by this memory of my childhood.

6.

PHOTOS: (TOP) EDWIN S FREYER; (BOTTOM) C. NICOLAS MATH

3.

5.

S H O P | 27

7.

WHICH CELEBRITY HAVE YOU BEEN MOST EXCITED TO SEE WEARING YOUR DESIGNS? I always find it so emotional to see such incredible and talented women choosing my jewellery. I feel so grateful that Beyoncé has such a love of Messika. In 2014 she was first pictured in the Glam’Azone double ring. In the first video for Everything is Love with Jay-Z, she sparkled in the Persian Drop necklace and earrings. During the On The Run II Tour, she wore a custom Messika Diamond XXL Gigi Move Addiction drop earring with the classic diamond Move Addiction earrings from the Messika

by Gigi Hadid collection.

IN A WORLD DOMINATED BY E-COMMERCE, HOW IMPORTANT IS YOUR PHYSICAL RETAIL SPACE IN PARIS? Our retail spaces are very important. Each Messika boutique or counter represents our core values of modernity, daring and sophistication. However, I want to be sure to offer our e-customers the same experience they would receive in a physical boutique.

On the website you can ask our customer service team all the questions you need – they are always available to help.

8.

9.

HOW DOES MESSIKA APPEAL TO THE MODERN INTERNATIONAL AUDIENCE OF TODAY? Messika has opened to Millennial customers by offering modern pieces that they see on famous celebrities and influencers such as Gigi Hadid, Camila Coelho, Barbara Palvin, Toni Garrn, et cetera. Messika makes sure that every age group is engaged and feels that there is something which appeals to them at every stage. I love the fact that there are no rules any more. Now it really is about embracing your own personal style and making the jewellery yours.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR MESSIKA? Everything is going so fast for Messika. I feel I am living in a dream! I hope Messika will continue to evolve – we are still a young brand and there are so many things to do.

Messika, 259 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7039 1800, messika.com

10.

Above (from left): Beyoncé wears the brand’s diamond drop earrings during her On the Run II tour; Messika Gigi Hadid collection

CREAM

28 | F E AT U R E S

OF THE

CATWALKS

Above: Saint Laurent spring/summer 2019

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 29

Contemporary styles, gender-fluid garments, beachready designs and spectacular show locations stood out at Paris Fashion Week. Fani Mari reports on the key looks for spring/summer 2019

30 | F E AT U R E S

S

eason after season, Paris Fashion Week is the key hub for classic, elegant collections that reflect the effortless je ne sais quoi of Parisian style. For spring/ summer 2019, we saw even the most classic designers showcasing more contemporary collections, staging immersive experiences, and bringing together fashion and art. Celine was, as expected, the talk of the town, with the unveiling of Hedi Slimane’s high-hemmed, sparkling and somewhat divisive first collection after his appointment as creative director in January 2018.

Despite the many coats, darker shades, and heavy fabrics seen on the Parisian catwalks this season, many designers clearly reminded us which season we are working towards; and it is definitely summer. The 60

72

63

highlight had to be the Chanel show, always known for its innovative set designs and locations. This time around, it brought the beach, complete with sand and lifeguards, to the Grand Palais. The collection’s raffia hats and leather bags shaped like beach balls are guaranteed to sell out.

Chloé took a retro approach to beachwear with knitted white cover-ups, high-waisted bikinis, and nautical-style rope belts. When it comes to raffia accessories Jacquemus certainly didn’t go unnoticed; alongside oversized hats, we saw substantial rattan bags in beige, khaki and burnt orange, to carry all your beach essentials.

Big beach bags and knitted beach coverups were also seen at Sonia Rykiel, who was known as the Queen of Knitwear; creative Above: two looks from Celine spring/summer 2019

PHOTOS: GORUNWAY.COM

The Parisian catwalks are a rich source of inspiration

PHOTOS: GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 31

Above (from left): Chloe; Chanel, both spring/summer 2019

director Julie de Libran takes the brand’s legacy very seriously, and constantly reinterprets knitwear in her collections.

With many brands embracing unisex collections, it was only a matter of time before Parisian designers took note and began to work with gender-fluid lines.

Clare Waight Keller set the tone on the Givenchy catwalk with men and women wearing the same clothing – apart from the dresses reserved for female models.

Femininity remained strong throughout.

Waight Keller took inspiration from Annemarie Schwarzenbach, a Swiss writer who dressed in androgynous clothes in the 1930s, well ahead of her time, artistically bending the boundaries of dressing.

For cut and style that transcend Above: two looks from Givenchy spring/summer 2019

boundaries, it should come as no surprise that John Galliano at Maison Margiela got it just right. Oversized, deconstructed clothing was cut the same way for both male and female models; a skirt cut from the remnants of a cape, for instance, showed a strong focus on craftsmanship. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière continued his mission to empower women, presenting armour-like oversized clothing, Joan of Arc sleeves, and masculine clothing worn by female models with androgynous features.

At the other end of the spectrum is ever popular animal print. The prints more usually seen on the Parisian catwalks are ultra-feminine florals; this time around the designers strongly promoted leopard print.

While not a new trend, it’s definitely making a

PHOTOS: GORUNWAY.COM

32 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 33

strong appearance this season. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia paired boxy leopard faux-fur coats with white leather pointed heels, proving the 1990s are back for yet another season.

Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello offered a retro aesthetic; his transparent midi dresses with deep décolletage and highwaisted mixed-print bodies showcased Parisian sensuality in all its glory, against a strong set design with models ‘walking on water’ by the Eiffel Tower.

Even Off-White couldn’t steer away from animal print, but Virgil Abloh

always adds his own personal twist, in this case a fluorescent green animal print accent seen on dresses, coats and even gloves. Elie Saab transmitted his usual elegance in silk ensembles with an added sporty vibe, as did Rochas, and Giambattista Valli upped the ante with fur trousers paired with a maxi fur coat in matching animal print.

Whether you prefer to combine elements of menswear and womenswear, are a new or long-term lover of animal print, or you prefer to spend all summer at the beach, the Parisian catwalks are a rich source of inspiration for the new season

Above (from top left): Elie Saab; Balenciaga; Off-White, all spring/summer 2019

xx

Influential French fashion houses of yesteryear are ripe for renewal. GingerxxRose Clark profiles the prestigious names xx that are back in the limelight

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

34 | F E AT U R E S

SHO P | 35 Left: backstage at Schiaparelli haute couture

O

ver the past century France’s fashion has been shaped by highly influential ateliers and couture houses, some of which have fallen by the wayside over time.

Recent years have, however, seen an emerging desire to reawaken some of the iconic but previously dormant names that helped to carve out France’s name for design, including Moynat in 2011, Courrèges in 2012, Poiret in 2018 and, even more recently, Jean Patou.

Reviving France’s formerly celebrated fashion houses taps into a fascination for the eponymous designers and their past glory.

Names suchspring/summer as Schiaparelli Left: Shiaparelli 2019 or Poiret come with a sense of allure. Fashion designer Elsa

Schiaparelli shot to fame in the 1930s with her Parisian couture house. A rival to Chanel, with connections to surrealism – she was friends with the likes of Salvador Dalí – Schiaparelli makes a fascinating figure to invest in. The brand, dormant since 1954, was relaunched by its current owner, Diego Della Valle, returning to couture in 2014 and gaining the prestigious haute-couture appellation in 2017.

While a new brand takes time to establish, the Schiaparelli name is legendary and offers solid foundations on which to build. On his appointment in 2015, design director Bertrand Guyon said: ‘I feel honoured to be part of Schiaparelli today and develop it further,

respecting its heritage and tradition while adding a contemporary and modern take, something Elsa Schiaparelli has always demonstrated.’ The label is based at 21 place Vendôme, the same address where it was formerly headquartered under Elsa Schiaparelli herself, creating a further symbolic link to the past.

With the prospect of resurrecting a brand that has been inactive for years comes carte blanche to create something new. At the same time, designers are faced with the challenging task of finding the right balance between heritage and reinvention: they have to respect the brand’s legacy while ushering it into the 21st century. For example, Poiret was revived last year. Staying true to the brand’s codes for her second collection for spring/summer 2019, creative director Yiqing Yin revisited Paul Poiret’s signature draping, drawing on similar 61 70

65

ideas of movement, and updated the brand’s iconic harem pants in a scarf-meets-skirt and dress. The parallels didn’t stop at design: in much the same way that Poiret worked with artists, Yin collaborated with painter Bernard Frize for the spring/summer collection. The venerable fashion house offers a framework from which Yin innovates, to create designs that are relevant and contemporary.

One of the most recent revivals to look out for this year is Jean Patou, the fashion house founded eponymously in 1912. Like Schiaparelli, Jean Patou was a ground-breaking designer of his time. LVMH recently acquired a majority stake in the brand and appointed Guillaume Henry, previously at Nina Ricci, as creative director in September 2018. Tasked with forging a new image for the brand after a hiatus of more than three decades, Henry will present his debut collection this year.

Above (clockwise frrom left): designs from Schiaparelli’s 1938 collection drawn by illustrator Christian Bérard; Elsa Schiaparelli working in her Paris studio; a boot from the brand’s last autumn/ winter collection

PHOTOS: (LEFT) ARCHIVES MAISON SCHIAPARELLI; JOHN PHILLIPS/TIME & LIFE PICTURES; STANISLAS WOLFF

36 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) FRANCESCO LUCIANI

S H O P | 37

This is a classic example of a large luxury group exhuming a designer name. Indeed, if you look closer, besides LVMH, the likes of Groupe Arnault, Diego Della Valle and Shinsegae are among the big investors and conglomerates spurring on such revivals.

Experts in the field of luxury, they fully understand the value of the houses’ respective heritages and how to reinvent them for modern audience. Resurrecting a brand, a process which plays on collective memory and references to house iconography, is clearly a formula that works.

In some cases, however, the revival is a family matter: Létrange, for example, was recently relaunched by Sébastien Létrange, seventh generation of the founding family.

Founded in 1838, with roots in saddlery, the brand went on to create leather goods for gentlemen, hunters and military men, before Above (from top): two looks from Poiret spring/summer 2019; the Létrange boutique on rue St Honoré

becoming a purveyor of high-quality shirts. In 2014, Sébastien Létrange took on the challenge of reviving the brand, transforming it into a contemporary bag label.

‘Over 25 years I shared lots of time and conversations with my great-grandmother Henriette Létrange, who inspired me in many ways,’ he recalls. ‘In 2014, I decided to pay tribute to her with the idea of starting a book about Létrange, the family house she had run for 30 years. While digging through the archives I discovered bits of history she had mentioned and much more that she hadn’t, to such an extent that, after months of work, I ended up with the desire to revive the brand rather than just making a book.’

In the process, Létrange had to find a careful positioning for the brand. ‘The leathergoods market is large and highly competitive, with major players,’ he says. ‘To make a difference in the offering, we decided to focus on Létrange’s DNA of innovation: we selected Above (from top): the Létrange boutique on rue St Honoré; Henriette Létrange

PHOTO: (TOP) FRANCESCO LUCIANI

38 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 39

Revivals satiate a nostalgia for the heyday of France’s cultural genius Mathias Jaquemet [formerly of Vuitton and Dior] as our artistic designer because he had this ability to think beyond design, and to imagine new ways of conceiving constructions, mixing our traditional savoirfaire with new technologies or arts.’

Under Jaquemet’s aegis, the Empreinte and the Ego have become signature Létrange handbags: the first tips into art with its sculptural handle, the second shows technical prowess with its asymmetric shape origami-like Above: shaping leather for a Létrange bag

construction. Despite the highly contemporary aesthetic, small details create a subtle link to the brand’s past: saddle nails, used 100 years ago to fix the interior leather padding then found in coaches, have been adapted as key metal pieces, while a name tag is the exact replica of a Létrange patent from 1926.

The revival of a designer name such as Poiret, Jean Patou or Létrange is part of a wider cultural phenomenon: we live in an era where heritage has become a buzzword and there’s a prevalent nostalgia in the luxury industry which sees creative directors repeatedly dig into archives for inspiration.

In this respect, storied fashion designers who faded into oblivion decades ago are ripe for resurrection. French brands, in particular, have been susceptible to revivals over the past few years, satiating a nostalgia for the heyday of France’s cultural genius as well as a constant quest for fresh versions of illustrious French style

40 | E X P E R I E N C E

TABLE TALK France’s bountiful seafood is a treat for visitors to Paris. Virginie Morawski suggests some of the city’s best fish restaurants

With close to 6,000 kilometres of coastline, it’s a given that France has a bountiful supply of fish and seafood.

The French shore’s wide variety of gastronomic delights, from oysters and crustaceans presented au naturel to more elaborate creations, can be enjoyed at Paris’s excellent fish and seafood restaurants. Whet your appetite with an oyster happy hour, take your taste buds on a tantalising journey with a Peruvian ceviche or keep it classically French with a perfectly executed dish of moules marinières. The city’s best modern fish restaurants offer an alluringly contemporary spin on seafood, prepared from the very best and freshest that the catch of the day has to offer. globalblue.com

LA REINE MER

PHOTO: DACHEZ ARNOLD

First and foremost a fishmonger, La Reine Mer is also an eatery: the space features a counter where visitors can sit down to a variety of dishes. La Reine Mer has a sustainable outlook and everything is the product of responsible fishing from France. The sandfish, a clever take on the spring roll that varies depending on the fish available that day, is a signature dish. You can also expect a variety of small dishes such as marinated mackerel, tartare and ceviche. Don’t miss out on the oyster happy hour, every day from 6pm to 7.30pm. While some might choose to take the catch of the day home, we recommend letting the team cook it for you as La Reine Mer is a unique concept.

La Reine Mer, 1 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4355 2906

42 | E X P E R I E N C E

MANKO PARIS Manko Paris is a Peruvian restaurant under the aegis of internationally renowned chef Gastón Acurio. Peru’s cuisine, which is heavily influenced by cultures from all around the world, consists of numerous fish and seafood dishes, many of which feature on the Manko Paris menu. Enjoy ceviche, tiradito and salads, as well as grilled options such as anticucho

skewers made with the catch of the day or with octopus. Start or finish your Peruvian journey at the bar, where you can enjoy drinks inspired by the country, including pisco cocktails in various forms.

Manko Paris, 15 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 8228 0015, manko-paris.com

Characterised by a small, intimate space and a terrace for sunny days, L’Ilot is constructed following a straightforward philosophy that sets out to celebrate seafood and wine. The menu opens with small dishes to accompany your aperitif, such as taramasalata or fish rillettes (pâté). Then eat your fill of oysters, fish, seafood platters and more, including the signature Burratargue dish, which pairs mozzarella burratina and bottarga fish roe.

Finish your meal with favourite desserts such as kouign amann, a classic Breton caramel pastry, or lime meringue pie. Since L’Ilot is not only about food, the wine menu features around 30 wines, from natural wines to classics, classed by region.

L’Ilot, 4 rue de la Corderie, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)6 9512 8661, lilot-restaurant.com globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) B. SCHMUCK

L’ILOT

S H O P | 43

CLAMATO Sister restaurant of the acclaimed Septime, which is just next door, Clamato is known for its exceptional fish and seafood offering.

Against a stylish, stripped-back interior backdrop, you can expect to find a menu that changes daily, based on the delivery of fish. From wild oysters to whole fish, the team makes use of traditional techniques in

profoundly contemporary dishes. Clamato’s fish and seafood is accompanied by a fine wine list, for a well-rounded, memorable gustative experience. The only downside?

Clamato doesn’t take reservations.

Clamato, 80 rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4372 7453, clamato-charonne.fr

PHOTO: (TOP) JEAN-PIERRE SALLE

SUR MER When you walk into Sur Mer, don’t let the size of the space – a mere two tables, plus a counter overlooking the open kitchen – surprise you. Despite being small, Sur Mer offers big flavours using seafood and fish from small suppliers.

Under the expertise of owner and chef Olive Davoux, who previously worked at L’Ecailler du Bistrot, Sur Mer serves up a concise menu based on the delivery of the day and Davoux’s daily inspiration.

Besides a fine selection of oysters and seafood platters, Sur Mer proposes some elegant dishes, to be enjoyed with a glass of natural wine or two.

Sur Mer, 53 rue de Lancry, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 4803 2138

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE

Find out more at globalblue.com

PHOTO: M_HORN71 CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS

PARIS GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a top candlemaker’s Right Bank boutique to a selection of chic fashion stores. Don’t miss the historic Hôtel de Ville city hall (pictured). Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.

46 | PA R I S G U I D E

AV E N

UE N

IE L

PARIS LE BOU

VA R

D DE

CO U R

CELLE

S

BD ES AL .M

S

HE OC EH U EN AV

CHARLES DE GAULLE -ÉTOILE

D AV EN U E DE F R I E

Change Group Refund Office

UE

KLÉBER

NU

PAGE

ED

48

ES

CH

AM

IÉNA

MIROMESNIL

52

PS

-EL YS

ÈE

PAGE

S

CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES CLEMENCEAU

PAGE

49

2

LA MADELEINE

PAGE

51

CONCORDE

RU

LE GRAND PALAIS

ALMA-MARCEAU

VOIE GEO RG E S POM PIDO U

OPÉRA GARNIER

MADELEINE

3

50

FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT

AV E N

BOISSIÈRE

Change Group Refund Office Change Group Refund Office PAGE

SAINT- AUGUSTIN

LA N D

SAINT-PHILIPPEDU-ROULE

GEORGE V

VE

U E D ’ IÉN A

EN AV

ARC DE TRIOMPHE A

CH FO

GARE SAINT-LAZARE

E RB HE

PLACE DES TERNES

ED

EGlobal R I V Blue Lounge OL I TUILERIES

LA CONCORDE

INVALIDES

RA IB

UA

LA TOUR-MAUBOURG

SOLFÉRINO

AR EV DS

UET

TOUR EIFFEL

UL

OSQ

Q

BO

UE B

NL Y

N AV E

QU AI AN AT NATIONALE ASSEMBLÉE OL EF RA NC MUSÉE D'ORSAY E

AI -G NT

LES INVALIDES

VARENNE

BIR-HAKEIM ET U

Q

AVENUE DE BRE TEUIL

Train Station

IN

54

IC

Metro

MA

PAGE

-P TE OT M LA

DE E U

N AV E

Place Of Interest

RUE DU BAC

ER

ÉCOLE MILITAIRE

SAINT-FRANÇOIS -XAVIER

Global Blue Refund Office

TOUR MONTPARNASSE

RENNES

4

S H O P | 47

MOULIN ROUGE B

BLANCHE

RD E VA OUL

DE L

A CH A P

SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

EL L E

De Fursac This chic French brand has been the tailor of choice for stylish Parisian men since it was founded in the 70s.

De Fursac, 34 avenue de l’Opéra, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0500, defursac.fr

1

SAINT-GEORGES NOTRE-DAMEDE-LORETTE

RU

ED

E UG BE AU M E

RUE

GARE DU NORD

LA

FAY

ETT

E

GARE DE L'EST

POISSONNIÈRE BO

TRINITÉ - D'ESTIENNE D'ORVES CADET LE PELETIER

UL

FEATURED ON PAGE 16

AR EV

DD

CHAUSSÉE D'ANTIN LAFAYETTE

EM

CHÂTEAU D'EAU

EN

1

TA

GRANDS BOULEVARDS JACQUES BONSERGENT

OPÉRA GARNIER QUATRE SEPTEMBRE

AG

RICHELIEU DROUOT

BONNE NOUVELLE STRASBOURG SAINT-DENIS

SENTIER

BOURSE

RUE

RÉA

UM

PYRAMIDES

RÉAUMUR SÉBASTOPOL

UR

RÉPUBLIQUE TEMPLE

FEATURED ON PAGE 17

PALAIS ROYAL MUSÉE DU LOUVRE

ARTS ET MÉTIERS

ÉTIENNE MARCEL CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU

● TOMMY HILFIGER

LES HALLES

RAMBUTEAU

LOUVRE RIVOLI MUSÉE DU LOUVRE

PONT NEUF VO I E G EO RG E SP O

CHÂTELET

MP

CITÉ

HOTEL HÔTEL DE VILLE IDO

SAINT-PAUL

NOTRE DAME DE PARIS

MABILLON ODEON

CLUNY - LA SORBONNE

Global Blue Retailer

Ermenegildo Zegna One of Europe’s most prestigious menswear labels, a must for those who appreciate refined luxury.

Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com

3

FEATURED ON PAGE 17

U

SAINT-GERMAIN -DES-PRÉS SAINT-MICHEL

SAINTSULPICE

Wempe Discover one of the widest selections of timepieces available in Paris, including many of the brand’s own beautiful models.

Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com

2

MAUBERT MUTUALITÉ

Global Blue Lounge

PONT MARIE

Prada This leading fashion house is the place to shop some of the season’s most eyecatching pieces.

Prada, 7 rue de Grenelle, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 5314, prada.com

4

FEATURED ON PAGE 17

48 | PA R I S G U I D E

● MAUBOUSSIN ● TIFFANY & CO.

● GUERLAIN

● SEPHORA

ED RU

● ● ● ●

● BIONDINI Galerie Des Champs-Élysées ● MAC ARCADES DES ● CHAMPS ELYSEES ● LEVI'S ● TISSOT GALERIE DU ● CLARIDGE

EB ZARA ER RI SOLARIS MORGAN H&M

● ALAIN AFFLELOU ● MARIONNAUD ● YVES ROCHER

WA

S H IN

G TO

N

● SWATCH ● TAG HEUER

RUE

GEORGE V

● MASSIMO DUTTI ● PETIT BATEAU

MONTBLANC CELIO SWAROVSKI SKAGEN GRAND OPTICAL PEUGEOT MILADY BULGARI LE LIDO

RUE ARSENE HOUSSAYE

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

● CARTIER

Change Group Refund Office

Avenue des Champs-Élysées West, Avenue George V & Rue François 1er

ES

●

RU

I●

AR

LG BU

BOSS

RO

AR

RU E

O ILD W EG A ● EN EG N BM M ● Z ER

NT

ON

CA

IS 1E

● FÉ ● ES CO ● A7 F O TO UIT ● RIJ R AL N● SS E E LM LE ANDR ●Z A X N E E ● H NI KIN AL T D OB H R B UE CLÉ AU S ME NT ● P DEM MA RO IGU AR T ET S IJE C● AR ● SA ● I B R L A FU R & NA SA DE THU ● CA IE ● EL A R F OX T● Y OO RR S AB GE B A B O S PA R G E O R ● F ● DE EU ● V VE BO GE C A D U . M . C● OR M R LA GE A EV QUE D IS TI RB OU GA ● B PE D PA AR ● ON LE ●

O AN EF I ● S T R I CC

I●

N ÇO

R

ARBE

SA

FR A

RUE M

For spring/summer 2019, the Boss line from German brand Hugo Boss focuses on pastel summer suits. Blush tones are complemented by deep red, grey and navy leathers and a sportswear element is introduced with tech fabrics and details.

Nylon shorts, dresses and jackets feature for women, while comfort is key in the men’s collection, with elastic waistbands, and drawstring or Velcro fastenings.

Boss, 115 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 3540, hugoboss.com

N

LONGCHAMP ●

E QUENTIN BAUCH A RT

ERIC BOMPARD ●

NI MA ● S ● ES AR ONI I ITE EZ S SU HERM L L LE ● CO

CAPET ● JOAILLER

UF

PL

C

L IF E B M W ST Ladur ée SH YLE CHR IS T O O P ● ●U F TARA JARMON ● LY S LE ● DOR SE N ●F MEU A RAN JOH C O IS R D IN N L O IL ● EM CAR BB ● O R IC T IE R E ●G ● IV E NCH ●C Y ● M H AU M E ● A O N TA IG T NGE KUSMI TEA ● PA U LS NE OPT L IQ U KA E DUBAIL ● LA M E ● ● D A IS O ARABIAN OUD ● U CH N S IC IS O CO L NIKE ● ● P IE AT ● O RRE M ● K P T IC IE A R LY ARA N R UE DON ●B ANN TUIL ● PIE NA ● T URMA RR O ● Z M FOR EC IL L I D H

OO

●

EV

NO

●

RG

E AV

NU

EG

E ILL

MO

G

RÉ

IN

AT

IV

EL

LU

YL

E AV

ED

AV E

NU

EP

IER

RE

1ER

DE

SE

EV

RB

RG

IE

EO

●

R XU

RU

BA SS A

O●

EO

T

K HE

EG

NZ

POINT PLUME ● A NI LIA NE OR

E LIN

●D ● S U B A IL ● K TELL A RON LU N OM E T RA Y

NU KE

RU E DE

OMEGA ●

LACOSTE ●

LOUIS VUITTON ● P.55 APPLE ●

E AV

DINH VAN ● NESPRESSO ● DANIEL WELLINGTON ● HUGO BOSS ●

PUBLICIS ● ORANGE ●

AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES

ARC DE TRIOMPH E

NU EM AR CE AU BA

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Shopping Centre

Global Blue Refund Office

LE

Café

N

SE MU LA ● S BY I E GA MAR ● A● G CIA

S H O P | 49

● QUIKSILVER

AR

EM

NE

TA IG

ON

NU

MA

RO

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ●

N ÇO

IS 1E

T

● CHANEL

● ERES ● YVES SALOMON ● LORO PIANA ● GIVENCHY

● JIMMY CHOO

R NINA RICCI ●

NOUEZ MOI ●

TA IG

MAX MARA ●

CHRISTIAN ● DIOR COUTURE ● BABY DIOR

● LOUIS VUITTON

P.14

● GIORGIO ARMANI

RUE

ILL

AU

RÉ

LT ●

MO

DU

TH OR

CC A

DO

● BOTTEGA VENETA

R

AP

DP

BO

AV E

NU

EM

ON

IR LTA N VA & V O IN HADIG D ● ●Z

● DIOR JOAILLERIE

SANDRO ●

● CESARE PACIOTTI ● GUISEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● PRADA MEN ● PR ADA ● SHIAIZ CHEN ● ESCADA

● GIORGIO ARMANI

Restaurant

AV E

AZZEDIN E ALAÏA ●

VERSACE ●

UIN

AT EL ED RU

LI

FR A

CA RIT OS TR A● OP VA HE LE ● NT INO ●

AN

EQ BR ILE I ● V MAN NA CK E

R ●F

RT

R ME

CA FOU RON ● QUE IM A T ● NI ● THO MAS B R U P IN K ● CUC NEL L IN E LLI O ●

LPH &R VO N V US TH FURS IONN SO ● EH TEN ET 54E O ● AV E Y E WU S E O B E R G EN UE EAR F ● ● ●

DIA

NE

RA

A ●H

ZIM

RUE

ENT

EM

RU

UF

SO

L ÉM

ABE RCR OMB IE & FITC H ●

PSG ●

UF

BE

IER

EP

RU

ARBE RU E M

IM

O WO

EC

NAN

CR

N●

RU

BONBON WATCH ●

A R IG

●

DE M

IER

● GUCCI ● RONERTO CAVALLI ● ST DUPONT ● BLUMARINE ● JIL SANDER ● DOLCE & GABBANA CÉLINE ● ● CHLOÉ P.24 SAINT LAURENT ● ● RALPH LAUREN FENDI ● ● BARBARA BUI CHANEL ● ● LOEWE ESPACE BONPOINT ● ● MARIGNAN ● DIOR AKRIS ● BALENCIAGA ●

RUE

LI ● ● NET NA LD C A WO R EN LU I DS P TIC ARET G ● O IN FI NT LA GRA A R ● E LIV ON E ● O AIS RUFF M T LA E LA D ● EN OW ● B INE U E G I B TO R ●S

tallo B e llo ta Be D

● ADIDAS ● BANANA REPUBLIC

U ED RU

DISNEY ZARA CITROEN ZARA HOME GAP

MARNI ●

RE

CH

ZIM ● IZ A M NIC ERLI C C O L PA R KO L A S ● VI L L EC T L A N ● EBR ION E EQ U ● ● IN ● MA KI X& A RT TO N ● IOL MA MO C AT T E S A I ● I ● RB OLI RE OP EU N T FA Ç I● GA I Q UF L O L MA NN E JE ● ABL O ● SER MICH E ● GE RIS TI NIK A ● EG LU O● ER MM TO ● B U CO D AL ZIL SM LE IEL LI ● ● B CE F E S CO RU E RU NC T IN S FR A ● B FR A AT GE ● N ÇO AR LMA RÈ IS 1E ● K● B A C O U R R ●

LAMPE A G ● BERGER ER FE LD

NE

LIE

RO

AR

L’A TE

LL

REP ETT O ●

ZAD IG & VOLTAIR E ●

LT ●

MA ST R B YLO EU S F● ● KA R

AU

●

EN

RO

FRANK LIN D. ROOSE VELT

AV ENUE DE S CHA M PS- E LYSÉE S

RR

ND

N

SA

● ● ● ● ●

● LOUIS PION

● GALERIE ELYSÉES

CO

LI

SÉ

E

Avenue des Champs-Élysées East, Rue François 1er, Rue Marbeuf & Avenue Montaigne

Metro

Featured In This Issue

CO

UR

L SA

BE

RT

1E R

E

RU E SA IN T- HO

CHRISTOFLE ● MISSONI ● MANOUSH ● KIEHL'S ● BA&SH ● THEORY ●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● PETIT BATEAU ● OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN ●

NO RÉ

Featured In This Issue

AV .D

NO RÉ

E

L’ O

PÉ

Place André Malraux

E L IE U

RA

E R IC H

A ST IG LI O

NE

Place Vendôme

O RÉ

● JOVOY LORENA ● ANTONIAZZI ● CAROLINA HERRERA

A NN ICK GO UTA L● ● LO U IS A LEX A ND ● G U ER VU IT TO N PIE RR E MA RCO RE ● LA LIN I ● ● GI U SE IN STE LLA MC C A RTN EY ● ● AK IL PP E ZA N O TT I LI E GOYA R D ● ● E GOYAS M ILL ER ● RD ● EX W ZAN IH IL O ST ELL A MC C A OT TI ● ● DODO RTN EY ● LUC I EN P ELL AT● SA KA RE FIN E T ● CH UR CH ● ● BA LDI NIN I R ICH A RD GR A ND ● ● MOYN AT ● PH ILIP PE FER R A ND IS

RU E D E C

● JIMMY CHOO ● KITON ● ZARA ● COACH ● ALEXAND ER MCQUEEN ● BRIONI ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● MARC JACOBS ● MIKI HOUSE

● BILLIONA IRE P.22 ● ZIMMERL I ● DAVID MORRIS ● OMEGA ● ALEXIS ● DE GRISOGO NO ● CHOPARD

RU E SA IN T- H ON

RUE D

IL

● KRIS VAN ASSCHE

●

FREY WILLE ● EB MEYROWITZ ● H STERN ●

FR EY WIL LE

EU

METAL FLAQUE ●

HELLE R U E D E L’ E C

APERLAЇ ● FREDERIC MALLE ●

● AESOP

NT

RU E SA IN T- HO

● CASTANER SHIATZY ● CHEN ● VEBER

GE

Non-Global Blue Retailer WOL FORD ● OCTO PUSS Y ● CADO LLE ● LINE A PIÙ ● CHLO É ● PORT S 1961 ● DSQU ARED 2 ● TUM I ● J M WES TON ● YVES SALO MON ● HOTE L COST ES ●

● KILI AN ● TOM FORD

● CORD ELIA

FAURÉ LE PAGE ●

● NODUS ● CECILE ET JEANNE ● TOUS

PLEIN SPORT ● MES SIKA ●

PAC O RAB ANN E ● ROBE RTO CAVA LLI ●

CHANEL ●

NOCIBE ● CHEMINS BLANCS ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●

CAMILLE FOURNET ● RU E C A M B O N

● CHANE L

HEURGON ●

VALENTINO ●

ROGER VIVIER ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● DJULA ●

LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROSSI ● CARITA ● LA BAGAGER IE ● BERLU TI ● MONCL ER ● PANERAI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SARTORE ● ● GABBANA DOLCE & MIU MIU ● AUDEMAR S PIGUET ●

CHANEL ● TOD’S ● CARTIER ●

●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JITROIS SAINT LAURENT P.23 YVES SALOMON ARAMIS BLOCH JUN ASHIDA SAINT LAURENT BOUCHERON

● L ANVIN FEMME ● LA PERLA ● ERMAN NO SCERV INO ● BOT T EGA VENETA ● LORO PIANA ● LONGI NES ● PRADA ● PINKO ● GUCCI

● HERMÈS

● GIVENCHY

RUE DU FAUB O U RG SA INT- H ONORÉ RENE CAOVILLA ●

IRE

● 55 CROISETTE ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● COMME DES GARCONS ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA ● LEONARD ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O

NORÉ

RU

MI DE S E DE S PY R A

AUDIO ● TECHNICA

VALERIE ● DANENBERG MAISO N MICHE L ●

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

● COTÉLAC

TARA JARMON ANNE FONTAINE GUERLAIN HERVE CHAPELIE R

JOHN ● GALLIANO

● ● ● ●

● LONGCHA MP

GO

IN T-H O

MAJE ● FENDI ●

SANDRO ●

CHRONOPASSION ● DJULA ●

● TORY BURCH ● MAX MARA

RIN

●C A EM RON ● ANUE ● MB E R G L ● F AU D ● A B IA F R IZ ● M A R IAN A F ILO N ● R O S A N N E IP P I TA RID S A R C L A R AA ● C T IN E R IE R I ● HOC & ● M A R INO L AT ● ML O R I B A R IN ALD ● P A R IN L U I IE R A E N R E C FA ARD NT IN ● SO THEB Y ’S ● M IL FR ET TE A DY ● ● BU M O R EA RMA U● ● CHO PA R D ● SO N IA R A LB ER Y K IE L ● PO TA FE R IR AY R ET TI ● A P O S TR ● R IC HARD OPHE ● O R L IN ● CHR SKI IS T IA N LOU BOUT IN ● ETR O ● PO MELL AT O ● BAR BAR A BUI ● BALLY

HG

RG SA

'A R

Global Blue Retailer BOU

ELENA MIRO ● ROGER & GALLET ● FLORSHEIM ● THE KOOPLES ● HILIO ● OLDEN ●

JEAN PATOU ● R U E S A I N T- F L O R E N T I N

WEMPE LANCASTE R LEETHA GROSSEN S KATE SPADE BRACCIAL INI

FA U

● DIOR ● CLERGERIE CHANTAL ● JO MALONE THOMAS ● ● MAC COSMOPARIS ● ● BONPOINT ● MONIES MAJESTIC FILATURES ● ● STELLA LUNA PENHALIGON’S ● ● STONE ISLAND ● SATELLITE FRAGONARD ● ● APRIATI PEUTEREY ● ● SEQUOIA LA PRAIRIE ● ● PARABOOT

VILEBREQUIN ● LYUBOV ● MICHAEL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● MULBERRY ● VALENTINO ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

RUE ROYA L E

DU

ED

PAULE KA ● PAUL SMITH ●

● BURMA ● STUART WEITZMAN COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS ● BALENCIAGA ● OBILIS ● EXEMPLAIRE ● AKILLIS ● DIPTYQUE

RUE

RU

● VANESSA SEWARD

50 | PA R I S G U I D E

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

Rue Saint-Honoré West

Rue Saint-Honoré East

DELVA UX ●

S H O P | 51

PORTS 1961 As its name suggests, Ports 1961 was established in 1961.

Luke Tanabe, a CanadianJapanese entrepreneur, began his business in Toronto by importing silk from Japan.

The brand continues to carry a sense of international identity, culture and the finest quality fabrics; now based in London, it is led by creative director Nataša Čagalj. The spring/summer 2019 collection, a fusion of relaxed tailoring and soft silk draping in neutral unbleached fabrics, with pops of primary colour, is quintessentially Ports 1961 – feminine yet utilitarian. Details include handwoven fringing, techno taffeta jacquards and reversible checks.

Ports 1961, 251 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 3541, ports1961.com

Rue du Malesherbes

Rue du Boissy D'Anglas

T

CROCKETT ● AND JONES

Place de la Madeleine ● SIA NINE WEST ●

● EQ:IQ

JEAN VIER ●

SY D'ANGL RUE BOIS

ALESSI ●

LAGUIOLE ●

● BURBERRY OLIVER B O ● GRANT LE JARDIN U D’ULYSSE ● L E VA ● BRUCE FIELD

MANFIELD ●

● YVES DELORME ● THE KOOPLES ● GUY DEGRENNE ● AGATHA

RD

● ANNE FONTAINE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● BRIC’S ● KI6

HERMÈS ●

● LANVIN

RUE DU FA UB OU RG SA I N T-HONORÉ

globalblue.com

RU E D ’AN JO U

PHOTOS: ISIDORE MONTAG

AS

JOHN LOBB ●

RUE ROYALE

MAJE ●

M

AL

ES

HE

RB

ES

SAMSUNG ●

LOUIS PION ● ODIOT ● GUY DEGRENNE ● PATRICK BELL & ROSS ● ROGER ● ● LOUIS EDOUARD LEJEUNE

52 | PA R I S G U I D E

Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine, Rue Royale, Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe

S

NE

CI

PU

CA

S

DE

D

EV AR PI

ES

IS

W

CO

JM

AN

E

●

EL

FR NE

TO

T

N

DE

AD

●

D

VI LA

●

NI

EL

YR

A

HE

D

NS

O

OP

HEDEGREN ● CHANEL ●

AU

GA RI X

TH CA

E

LO N

MAISON ● DE FAMILLE

FAURÉ LE PAGE ●

RUE CAM BON

Global Blue Retailer

ON

● YUMIKO KATSURA

● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS

● HERVÉ CHAPE LIER ● LES ATELI ERS DE LA MAILE

Ladurée ● WEMPE

● TOM FORD

● ● ● ●

EMILE LÉON O J PERRIN HAVILAND / DAUM ARTHUS BERTRAND

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Lounge

Metro

Café

NO R É

C A S T IG

RU E SA IN T- HO

● AURELIE BIDERMANN ● IRO

LI O N E

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

RUE DE

AUDEMARS PIGUET ● HEURGON ● BONPOINT ● ST LOUIS ● ISSEY MIYAKE ● BERNARDAUD ● LALIQUE ● CHRISTOFLE ● J L COQUET ● MAXIM'S ●

RU E ROYA L E

VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●

● KENZO

GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI

ESCALES ●

DIOR ● LE VILLAGE ROYALE ● ● NAPAPIJRI CHANEL ● ● EMLING APC ●

DE

PATRICK ROGER ●

CH

ES

●

●

RB

AR

HE

M

●

ES

UL

●

AL

MAILLE ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● RALPH LAUREN ●

M

AR EV

M

LA

●

● MARELLA

BO

O

UL

U R OY

● ALAIN FIGARET

BCBGMAXAZRIA ●

D

ZARA HOME ● LIPAULT ● LA MAISON DU E CHOCOLAT ● IN

ZWILLING ●

M

BO

DE M A

MADELE INE

● NINE WEST ● EQ:IQ ● ERIC BOMPARD

● BOULANGER ● AIGLE ● TOMMY HILFIGER

● FAUCHON

Place de la Madeleine

EV AR

E

● LA MAROQUIN ERIE PARISIENNE ● EKYOG ● CLAIRVUE OPTIQUE ● NATALYS ● LE BOURGET ● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX ● WINONA ● EMA PIAZI ● THE STORE ● GANTS HELION ● CHAVANEL ● CAROLL ● INDIES ● PALAIS DE THES ● YVES THURIES ● LE CREUSET ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E S WA RFA U C E ● ● ● O D OT

NICOLAS ●

L ANCEL ● GUESS ● DESIGUAL ● MATY ●

B ER

CLAUDIE PIERLOT ●

RUE G

RUE T RO N CH E T

BRITISH DESTOCK ● OBREY ● PETIT BATEAU ● COS ● SAINT JAMES ● KUJTEN ●

UL

S C R IB

RUE T RO NCHET

JACADI ● IKKS ● CATIMINI ●

BURMA ●

RUE AU

LA CA PA F É D Place Opéra NA A IX ● E M CO P M AI ● BENETTON ● S M ON W BON ● BASLER ON A A B T SA T B DIVINE ● PRINCESSE R C O TA M S B L A I Z H ● N FRAGONARD ● ● TAM TAM G O N A● PHILIPPE CA HE NIT C ● B FERRANDIS ● U CH RT UER E ● ● CALIDA ER IER ● GOLFINO ● ER ● ● COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS MAJE ● COTONNIERS ● ERIC BOMPARD ● RUE DAUNOU PE GAP ● ● OMEGA RI G ● BALLY Z A OT ● RA ● ● HARMONT & BLAINE B GA AB ● LACOSTE P Y ● HACKETT ● ● MANFIELD ● GANT

● CAFÉ COTON

OLIVER GRANT ●

BO

● NESPRESS O

ER

● MASSIMO DUTTI

MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● COLOMBINE ● SABON ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● CHARLES COTONAY ● SOPHIE FLORE ● EMLING ● AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●

MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ● MARIAGE FRERES ● CAVIAR KASPIA ●

AU B

RUE

DEVERNOIS ●

RUE

RUE DE LA PAIX

● GAP

RU E VOLNEY

GUERLAIN ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●

Global Blue Lounge

S H O P | 53

Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO

● BENETTON

CA

PU

CI

NE

S

Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix

BO

UL

EV AR

D

DE

S

MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● ALANGE & SÖHNE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● POIRAY ●

MAUBOUSSIN ● GARLAND ● CARTIER ● MELLERIO ● TTF HAUTE JOAILLERIE ● PIAGET ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● IWC ● AMIN KADER ● BUCCELLATI ● BULGARI ● BAUMER ● SCHIAPARELLI ● I ● ● ● N ER H IA TI IT M AR EN DA C Z Ritz Paris

GRAFF ●

CIRE TRUDON Step inside candle shop Cire Trudon and feel as though you’ve stepped back hundreds of years. A testament to French style and Parisian history, the candle brand’s story began in 1643, when Claude Trudon became the owner of a boutique on rue Saint-Honoré, where he developed his passion for candlemaking. Today the brand’s opulent scented candles are internationally recognised and there are Cire Trudon stores in London, New York, Seoul and of course, Paris. Our absolute favourite is in the historical Le Marais district, on the city’s Right Bank. Here you will find not just candles but also room sprays, scented wax cameos and gift sets.

Cire Trudon, 11 rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4277 9088, trudon.com

Hotel

RUE DE LA PAIX

ALFRED DUNHILL ●

● MARVELLA ● ROSSIGNO L ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● VANITY FAIR ● CHRISTOF LE ● BAUME ET MERCIER

● LERY ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF ● ANNE KERVALL COUTURE ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. ● GLASHÜTT E ORIGINAL ● DAUM VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN

DA RUE

N IE L

LE CA

SANO

● CHARVET ● BOUCHERO N

● BLANCPAIN VAN CLEEF & ● ARPELS ● CHANEL ● PIAGET ● SWATCH ● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT PATEK ● PHILIPPE ● MIKIMOTO ● DIOR ● BREGUET

Place Vendôme

ROLEX ● JAEGER LECOULTRE ● FRED ●

OMEGA ●

CHOPARD ●

RUE SA INT- H ON O R É

VA

● LOUIS VUITTON

RUE SAIN T-HO NOR É

SELECTED STORES IN RITZ PARIS: Concept Store Colombo Via Della Spiga Tasaki

54 | PA R I S G U I D E

Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle

● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER

ISABEL MARANT ●

● DIESEL

R U● MARIONNAUD EB

HUGO BOSS ●

●L ● D ODIN ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E

CARVEN ● IKKS ● IRO ●

UX

E

SAINT-GERMAIN DES-PRÉS

JOSEPH ● TED BAKER ● JIMMY FAIRLY ●

R

FABRICE ●

N

CITY PHARMA ● POM D’API ● DIAMANTISSIMO ● FREELANCE ● BILLIES MARKET ● IKKS ● LES MONTRES COLLECTOR ●

RU

●M A

N

E

BOBBI BROWN ●

L P IC

T SU

OM

OL

XC

IEU

-M ID

● RENE DERHY ● PARALLELE ● MAC DOUGLAS ● MAJE ● BONPOINT ● HERMÈS

Department Store

I

Restaurant

HE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● MARISA

- BABYLONE

RC

Global Blue Retailer

OLIVER SANDRO ● GRANT THIBAULT ● ● JET SET

HE

BRAND BAZAR ● SÈVRES CLARINS ●

● LONGINES ● LOSCO ● FREY WILLE ● CAFÉ COTON

UC

BOUL EVAR D RASPAIL

● EQUIPAGGIAMENTI

ED

●

S E LL UR YE MA IC VO ● ER ED T FR ICKE W ●

OMEGA ●

● CLERGERIE

● COLISSE

RU

PABLO ● GERARD DAREL ●

● SWATCH

RU E DE SÈ V RE S

I● F I FU R ● N TE TIA ● CA RIS TIN VO C H O U UB LO

KIEHL'S ● KIPLING ● B’ROOM GRAFFITI ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● DURANCE ● SHANG XIA ●

BERLUTI ● ALAIN FIGARET ● CYRILLUS ● LE TANNEUR ● BIBA ●

Metro

ES

LL

N

RO

E

NE

ZINS●

AUBADE ● BALIBARIS ●

●

TP

RU

DE

E GR

SAINT-SULPICE

JALK ● SANDRO ● HESCHUNG ● SWILDENS ●

●

EN

NT T T IN RE O E SA L AU A B O LL LA ● PA R BI GIE MA R ● IS MA E EX N OR AL ISO AT O ● ● MA LV M EN S A AG A ● E● RV IN ● RR I CA ÉL OK ● FE LE ● C R AC O N PE CH IL S M ● I● G GO TA AM DI NE M RI I IN TA E● A CA NG STE SE 5' S 4 SA TI ● CE ● E S A P AU ● IN F R N - B U R E I R I SR ● PR T E LA A T ● ● E U J ET M H RA NN AM MIT BE SK LS L E AU LK ● AR P

DE

DSQUARED2 ●

CH

AG L'ARTISAN PARFUMEUR ●

COCCINELLE ● TOD’S ●

COMPTOIR DES ● COTONNIERS

N E M RE M CE O DE AN E RÉ RE H SS R U N D TOI G L A A N T A C IN L R P OT ● VI M L CE G M ● E AR ER HA RL ● M L I V G C TA P I E I S ● O ON AN IE AR ON ● L AR UD P LE ● K A MO E ● CL OS NN R ● C VO P E Y AM C ●

● VENTILO

ES

ALEXANDRA SOJFER EDWARD GREEN SAVE THE QUEEN LOEWE GALERIE ISSEY MIYAKE

IN

● ● ● ● ●

KUJTEN ● LEON & HARPER ● UGG ● REINE ROSALIE ● SUGAR ● MELLOW YELLOW ● MANOUSH ● APRIATI ● MARINA RINALDI ●

RTE

EV

E

A PA

RU

RU

A

● NAPAPIJRI

BO

Ralph’s

ON

AR

● NILAÏ ● H E RT H E K AUBADE ● OO V PLE AGNÈS B ● Z● C H A E S AD P IG ELIE ● R MARIONNA UD ● ● V O LT & ● VA E S O PA I R E ILE TWIN SET ● BRE SATELLITE ● QU IN

● THE KOOPLES ● STEFAN GREEN GAP ● ● THE SLOWEAR STORE + STEFAN GREEN ● MONCLER DESCAMPS ● ● VANESSA SEWARD SAKARÉ ● ● RALPH LAUREN

DU ● SONIA RYKIEL P.24 VIGNES ● DR AG APOSTROPH E ● RU O ED PAULE KA ● ES ● ETRO SA KARL LAGERFELD ● IN TS FRAGONARD ● PÈ ● IL GUFO RE VERSUS ● S ● SHADE ● BARBARA BUI ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

EB

XM

● LA BAGAGERIE

UL

POIRAY ●

EV AR

D

SA

IN

TG

ER

M

AI

EMPORIO FAÇONNABLE ● ● ARMANI GERARD DAREL ● ● CARON PARIS SHU UEMURA ● COMPTOIR ● ARTHUR & FOX DES COTONNIERS ● ● JUST CAMPAGNE JOTT ● MAUBOUSSIN ● LIU JO ●

● HEYRAUD ● LA POINTURE THEA SO SWEET ● ● SUNCOO ● KINZA PATRICK ROGER ● ● LIU JO CHRISTIAN ● ANNAH LACROIX ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● SILK & CASHMERE SAINT ● BEL AIR LAURENT ● ● PETIT BATEAU ● WHAT FOR ANNICK GOUTAL ●

S A IN

●

TARA JARMON ● CALZEDONIA ●

RUE

AR

TS

ET

COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ●

R UE DU F OU

LOUIS VUITTON ●

E

BI

GALERIE CATHERINE HOUARD ●

R

ON FRANCIS KLEIN ● AP AR FABRICE ● T

MABILLON

ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● AN’GE ● CAREL ●

COCCINELLE ●

BIE

CHRISTOFLE BIJOUX ●

AU VIEUX CAMPEUR ● MAXIMILIEN ● DE FURSAC ● CAROLL ●

JO

RUE DU FO UR

THIERRY LASRY ●

Le Bon March é

P.74

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 55

APPLE

Rue Bonaparte SK I ● SWAR OV HE ● AP OS TR OP ● FA BR IC E ● ND BE RT RA AR TH US ● N VA DI NH TR ES ● LE S M ON ER IN ● DI DI ER GU

● SE IKO AR ● CI TY PH

RUE B O N APA RTE

A● M AX M AR AM .P M ● PO LO ● O‘ C AR M RE ST ● ST EL LA FO LA ● LO BI M BA Y ● BE RE NI CE FI NE ● UT S ● HA TS TI LE S PE IE RS LE S AT EL E ● LL DE LA M AI D ● M OL IN AR RM É ● PI ER RE HE R● LA NC AS TE

In November last year, Apple opened on the Champs-Élysées. The store’s design preserves original features of the historic Haussmann building, while transforming it into a modern boutique that runs on renewable energy. The courtyard’s roof light allows sunlight to flood in. Let one of the 330 employees, who speak 17 languages between them, advise you on the latest products.

● AG AT HA

RU E

DU F

MA

OUR

FO R ● W HAT OI ● M AX &M ÇA IS RD FR AN ● JA CQ UA TA M SS E TA M ● PR IN CE ● M KT ● ZA PA A ● GA RE LL ● IV OI RE IN GS ● NI CE TH C FI LATU RE S TI ● M AJ ES ● BA &S H ● IN DI ES LI ● M IN EL ON AC O ● AP M M RE ID ES ● LE S NE R DE S CO M PT OI IE RS ● CO TO NN

Apple, 114 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7098 0900, apple.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48

Rue des Saints-Pères & Rue de Rennes ON

AP

SAINT-GERMAIN DES-PRÉS

AR

TE

E

EB

L P IC

RU

DE

TG

E

ER

RU

M

AI

N

RUE

S A IN

T SU

● CARTIER ● DEVERNOIS ● LANCEL ● ZARA ● X ● MONTBLANC I PR ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS O N ● ESTEBAN O M ● J M WESTON ● RU BY ● ● THE NINES EB N X ● ON IG LE N ● ● LE CREUSET A PA S O O O E RT E R D ● D N NS O ● T O F L GA NZ S ● ● NAPAPIJRI O T L E ID E ● L T K ● MARCHAND DRAPIER K E E P LON A P CK ● ICE WATCH GA A G EL E NN HA ● JB GUANTI M KI TT MA S O J O ● SIMONE PERELE RY R E X E L A A ● BO CONCEPT L I G D N N N G BI SE ● I O ● WEEKEND MAX MARA L A IE OI D S T V R L T M ● O AR ER RÉ E N F RU I ● ● S AU S D L A S E O R ● S E ● I D W ● ME EU UN ● LEONIDAS ● M RO ● BU ● JA SO SS E RA ● A ET RES ● ● U ER ● É SE AD AR O D E P H T B SAINT-SULPICE H K ● P PÉ A S R O RU T M OC NA ED ● IN I BA JI AM R JO ● FOSSIL ES ● H A M PA Y R M S SA A E S O F S N AI Y A I A ● V NT Y ● SC OT LIP S Y RO MO ● SP RI " ● ● N A É IA AR ÈR ● M R B PA E S E ● J E B A D ● ● E Y M ● BRANDY MELVILLE ● S SA R IE RY AN ON Y "E OM E ● TA ● M Y● ER EO ST H ● M E ● TH -B NG I FE TE N RO ● ● GEOX JO E ● L E A N I & M ET JO

BY R E AD UE NE VA UL ● ● HENRY PHILIPPE & GIN TA JA TO O ● R O T I Q TA I PR 8 E L PA E D 7 U L ● N OU ON VA A M G PA LE SA B B E F N B ER N O N S A L AG S ● ● ● R N VO N O AI RR ’S ● AN E TE RIZ NT ● M E FE LL ● DY ● IAN RS D F RD RE A X NE D F U AU FO VE I● RE AU T M RU G L L A A T ● E ● M R A XI T R N IK ● ED M BS IN SPO DI ● HA UL NG 0 ● RU T A 6 N N J I S 7 AC ● ● D HA A 1 A C D M ER ● ● S S AL EE ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● R RI TO SE IE CR AR HIS RO D● EL N E● T L B EP A A L LI M L' Y L DA H A AU C

N

SA

N

IN

RE

ED

EN

BO

SH

UL

O

ES

●

EV AR

D

ES

U

DR

BI

M

LO

VI

EU

X

CO

DE

E

E

RU

RU

RU E DU FO U R

ON

ER

AG

RE

N

N

ES

globalblue.com

56 | PA R I S G U I D E

DAY TRIP LA VALLÉE VILLAGE

THE ULTIMATE LUXURY SHOPPING EXPERIENCE In this open-air village, discover more than 110 fashion and lifestyle boutiques at prices reduced up to 50%*. Open seven days a week, La Vallée Village is 40 minutes from Paris and five minutes from Disney® parks.

PA R I S PARIS GARE DE LYON

A4

HOW TO GET THERE By car from Paris Take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; parking is free, with 2,300 spaces.

By car from Reims Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/Entrée A.

OPENING TIMES Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

La Vallée Village 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3500 lavalleevillage.com

MARNE-LA-VALLÉE-CHESSY/ PARC DISNEY STATION VAL D'EUROPE/ SERRIS MONTÉVRAIN STATION La Vallée Village A4 A4

By train The closest TGV train station is Marne-laVallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station. By RER train, take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station. La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away.

5-STAR SERVICES • Welcome centre with multilingual staff • Hands-free shopping service – you do the shopping, we do the carrying

By Shopping Express La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express service offers two daily departures from place des Pyramides.

Find more information at lavalleevillage.com/shoppingexpress.

Train Station

Outlet Village

• Air Miles redemptions when you shop in the Village

• Restaurants and cafés • Free Wi-fi • Phone-charging station • Tax free lounge * 33% off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections all year round and up to 50% off in certain periods and boutiques

S H O P | 57

MY PERFECT DAY RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD,

12pm

4pm Perfect an elegant, on-trend Italian style by visiting Salvatore Ferragamo. The collections combine vintage-inspired pieces with classic tailoring to create a unique fashion look that will never go out of style.

10pm

Take a break at Menu Palais, which offers a menu designed by talented chef Stéphane d’Aboville. The dishes are served in a setting that evokes the inspiring atmosphere of a Parisian artist’s atelier. Menu Palais echoes Mini Palais, the famous restaurant located in the magnificent, emblematic Grand Palais in Paris.

Start the day admiring the signature style of Kenzo.

Be sure to pick up one of the label’s sweaters, whose prints are instantly recognisable.

Discover the secret of effortless chic at Sandro. The French label’s casual fashion for men and women is youthful, ultra-hip and romantic.

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

SHOP’S ACTING DEPUTY EDITOR, DESCRIBES HIS PERFECT DAY AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE

globalblue.com

3pm

6pm End your day admiring the footwear and luxury leather goods available at Tod’s. The company is best known for its Gommino moccasin, made by hand and featuring 133 pins in its rubber sole.

58

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Refund Office details

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

Global Blue Lounge Paris 4 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €175.01 and save an average of 12% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 +800 32 111 111

Change Group 150 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris 50 rue de la Chaussée d’Antin, 75009 Paris 80 rue de Provence, 75009 Paris Cash Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 1 for groups and individuals Terminal 2AC, BAT junction Terminal 2E, Hall K Terminal 2E, Hall L Terminal 2E, Hall M Terminal 2E, public area Orly Airport Orly Sud 62 68

67

60

中文翻译

28: CREAM OF THE CATWALKS 秀场精华 巴黎时装周上，前卫的风格、性别模糊的 服装、适合在沙滩穿戴的设计和引人入胜 的秀场布景大放异彩。Fani Mari为您报 道2019年春夏季热门搭配

一季又一季，巴黎时装周为经典而优雅的系列作 品提供了绝佳的舞台，展现了巴黎风尚的潇洒写 意与妙不可言。2019年春夏季，我们看到就连最 经典的设计师也展出了更前卫的系列作品，带来 了沉浸式的体验，将时尚与艺术融于一体。不出 所料，Hedi Slimane于2018年1月出任Celine创意 总监后的首个系列甫一揭幕，该品牌即成为街头 巷尾热议的话题。 尽管在本季的巴黎秀场上出现了不少大衣、 深色调元素及厚重面料，但许多设计师都清晰无 误地提醒了我们即将到来的是哪个季节— —答案 无疑是夏季。Chanel的大秀自然是一场重头戏， 该品牌向来以极具创意的布景设计与舞台选址而 著称。而这一次，Chanel将海滩连同沙子和救生 员一起带到了巴黎大皇宫（Grand Palais）。该系 列的酒椰帽和形似沙滩球的皮革手袋必定会大卖 特卖。 Chloé用复古的方式诠释沙滩装，带来了针织 上图：Saint Laurent 2019 春夏秀场

白色披肩、高腰比基尼和航海风绳带。提到酒椰 配饰，Jacquemus当然不会被人忽视；除了硕大的 帽子之外，我们还看到了大量米黄色、卡其色和暗 橙色的藤编手袋，可以容纳您所有的沙滩必需 品。被称作“针织女王”的Sonia Rykiel同样推出了 大尺寸沙滩手袋和针织沙滩披肩；创意总监 Julie de Libran十分重视该品牌的传统底蕴，常常在她 的系列作品中对针织服饰进行重新诠释。 眼下许多品牌都推出了中性服饰系列，巴黎 的各大设计师着手打造性别模糊的作品也只是时 间的问题。在Givenchy秀场上，Clare Waight Keller让男女模特穿着同样的服装，只保留了女性 模特的连衣裙装，展现出中性情调，并将鲜明女 性气质贯穿始终。Waight Keller的创意灵感源自 瑞士作家Annemarie Schwarzenbach，后者曾于上 世纪30年代穿着中性服装，此举远远超前于她的 时代，巧妙地消解了男女着装的界线。 对于超越界线的剪裁与风格，Maison Margiela的John Galliano拿捏得恰到好处，这也是 意料之中的事情。男女模特身上的大尺寸解构服 装都采用了同样的剪裁手法；例如，用一件斗篷的 剩余材料裁成的裙子淋漓尽致地展现了裁缝技艺 的精湛之处。Louis Vuitton的Nicolas Ghesquière 继续履行着为女性赋权的使命，展示了形如盔甲 的大尺寸服装和圣女贞德风格的袖子，还有一些 具有中性特征的女性模特身穿充满阳刚气质的服 装。 本季大放异彩的还有广受欢迎的动物印花。 在以往的巴黎秀场上，较为常见的是极致秀美的 植物印花；而这一次，设计师们纷纷大力推崇豹纹 印花。豹纹是一个百搭的优雅选择，既显奢华又

照片: GORUNWAY.COM

TRANSLATIONS

61

充满活力。虽然这并非新的趋势，但它无疑在本 季强势回归，从Elie Saab到Rochas的各大品牌均 不例外。Saint Laurent的设计师Anthony Vaccarello带来了复古的审美风格：一众模特在埃 菲尔铁塔旁演绎“水上漫步” ，在这令人赞叹的布 景设计之中，深V领透明中长裙和高腰混合印花 束身衣展露了最极致的巴黎式性感。Balenciaga 的设计师Demna Gvasalia用方正的豹纹人造毛 皮大衣搭配白色尖头高跟皮鞋，力证90年代风范 在本季强劲再现。

2019年春夏季，最经典 的设计师都展出了最前 卫的系列作品 即使Off-White这样的品牌也躲不开动物印 花，但设计师Virgil Abloh总是会融入他独树一帜 的个人风格；这一次，我们在连衣裙、大衣甚至 是手套上看到了荧光绿色的动物印花。和Rochas 一样，Elie Saab通过丝绸套装展现他一如既往的 优雅风格，同时点缀了些许花哨的元 素；Giambattista Valli也精彩亮相，用长及脚踝 的毛皮外套搭配饰有同款动物印花的毛皮长裤。 无论您是喜欢将男装与女装的元素结合在一 起，还是对动物印花一见倾心或钟情已久，又或 是想在沙滩上度过整个夏季，巴黎的秀场都将是 您新季度的绝佳灵感源泉。

34: A STYLISH RENAISSANCE 时尚文艺复兴 曾叱咤风云的法国时装屋在沉寂多年后 复出，时尚记者Ginger Rose Clark在此介 绍几家重返聚光灯下的知名品牌 在过去的一个世纪中，众多极具影响力的工作室 与高级时装品牌影响了法国时尚界的发展，但它 们中有一些已随着时间的推移而被忘却了。不过 近些年来，我们看到越来越多的人想要再度唤醒 那些曾铸就了法国设计之美名、具有代表性而又 已销声匿迹的品牌，根据重返时尚圈的先后，包 括2011年的Moynat、2012年的Courrèges、2018 年的Poiret以及前段时间的Jean Patou。 复兴法国昔日的知名时尚品牌意味着深入挖 globalblue.cn

掘这些同名设计师的非凡魅力和他们过往的辉 煌。Schiaparelli和Poiret这样的名字本身就极具魅 惑力。上世纪30年代，时装设计师Elsa Schiaparelli凭借她的巴黎高级时装品牌而名声鹊 起。作为Chanel的劲敌，Schiaparelli将超现实主 义带入时装，又与同为超现实主义的艺术家达利 （Salvador Dalí）有深厚交情，使该品牌极具投资 价值。Schiaparelli自1954年起逐渐沉寂，后来由 现在的老板 Diego Della Valle整顿旗鼓，于2014年 重返时尚界，并于2017年获得了“高级时装”的尊 贵称谓。 创立一个新的品牌诚然需要耗费许多时间， 但Schiaparelli这个名字充满了传奇色彩，也为新 品牌的诞生提供了坚实的基础。2015年走马上任 之际，品牌设计总监Bertrand Guyon表示： “我很 荣幸能在今天成为Schiaparelli的一员，并进一步 将它发展壮大，在尊重品牌历史与传统的同时， 增加一些现代的、摩登的东西，一些Elsa Schiaparelli一直以来所展现的东西。”品牌新店设 于旺多姆广场21号，这里正是从前Elsa Schiaparelli执掌门户时总部的所在地，由此重生 的Schiaparelli得以在象征意义上进一步与过往连 接在一起。 要复兴一家沉寂多年的品牌，不可避免地要 创造一些新的东西。同时，设计师们都面临着一 项充满挑战的任务，那就是在传统与再生之间找 到合适的平衡点：他们既要尊重品牌的历史，也 要引领品牌进入21世纪。去年焕发新生的Poiret就 是一个例子。2019年春夏季，创意总监​殷 亦晴在 她为品牌设计的第二个系列中始终秉承着该品牌 的固有风格，她重新审视了Paul Poiret代表性的 垂褶元素，再现了服装随穿着者而产生的美妙动 感，改良了品牌标志性的哈伦裤，推出了带有围巾 装饰的飘逸半裙和连衣裙。新与旧的交汇并不止 于设计：和Poiret从前与艺术家展开合作的方式一 样，今年春夏季殷亦晴与画家Bernard Frize强强 联手。这家倍受尊敬的时尚品牌为殷亦晴提供了 创新的框架，而她则在此基础上创作出紧跟潮流 且极具现代气息的作品。 在最近复兴的品牌之中，Jean Patou是格外值 得注意的一家。该品牌由同名设计师初创于1912 年，和Schiaparelli一样，当年的Jean Patou也是一 位对于他的时代有着开拓性意义的设计师。近年 来，LVMH集团收购了该品牌的大部分股权，并 于2018年9月任命此前效力于Nina Ricci的 Guillaume Henry担任品牌创意总监。在三十多年 的沉寂之后，为该品牌塑造全新形象的重任落在 了Henry的肩头上，他的首个系列将于今年亮相。 这是大型奢侈品集团挖掘设计师品牌的一个 经典范例。其实，如果更深入观察，你会发现除了

62

盛时期的同时，也不断寻求着以全新的方式展现 LVMH之外，Groupe Arnault、Diego Della Valle 和Shinsegae等大投资方和企业集团都在激励类似 举世闻名的法国风格。 的品牌复兴。这些集团无一不是奢侈品领域的专 家，它们深切理解各家品牌传统的价值，也深知 Scan the QR code to 该如何重新发掘以迎合现代受众。品牌复兴显然 subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services. 就是一道行之有效的公式，这个过程要充分利用 Receive the latest shopping 人们的集体记忆，并借鉴品牌过往的标志形象。 and tax refund information.

Track and manage your 而在另一些案例中，复兴是一项家族事务。例 refund, and get online 如，最近 Létrange就在创始家族第七代人 customer service and other tax refund services.

Sébastien Létrange的引领下东山再起。该品牌初 创于1838年，以制作马具起家，后来逐渐开始为 扫描二维码，订阅环球蓝联 官方微信。接收最新的购物 绅士、猎人和军人打造皮具，最终成为了一家高品 和退税信息。追踪和管理您 质衬衫供应商。2014年，Sébastien Létrange接受 的退税，获取在线客服及其 他退税服务。 了品牌复兴的挑战，将Létrange转型成为一家充 满现代特色的包袋品牌。 “在过去的25年里，我和曾祖母Henriette Létrange相处了很久，聊过许多，她在很多方面启 发了我。”Sébastien回忆道， “ 2014年，我决定为 Létrange写一本书，以向她致敬— —她一手经营 这个家族企业长达30年。在翻阅文献的过程中， 我发现了一些她提到过的历史，此外还有更多她 未曾提及的东西。这些内容丰富至极，以至于在 当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费 伏案数月之后，我最终决心重振品牌，而不仅仅 时，环球蓝联购物退税服务（Global Blue Tax 是写一本书。” Free Shopping）为您节省购物开销。 在复兴的过程中，Sébastien必须为品牌找到 一个恰当的定位。 “皮具市场很庞大，而且充满竞 每年大约有两千六百多万名游客享用环球蓝联 争，有许多强有力的竞争者。”他说道， “为了让自 (Global Blue）的购物退税服务，何不加入他们的 己在众多品牌中凸显出来，我们决定专注于 行列？您只需在购物时留意环球蓝联(Global Létrange的创新能力：我们选择了Mathias Blue）的蓝星标志，或直接问询商家是否提供环 Jaquemet [曾效力于Louis Vuitton和Dior]来担任 球蓝联（Global Blue）退税服务，然后遵循以下 我们的艺术设计师，因为他能在艺术之外思考， 简单的退税流程即可： 他能想象出构建作品的新方法，他能将我们的传 统技艺和新的艺术技法结合在一起。” 1. 购物消费 在 Jaquemet的帮助下，Empreinte和Ego成为了 无论您在哪里购物，请向商家索要环球蓝联退税 Létrange的两款招牌手袋：前者极具雕塑感的提 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并保存好购 手尽显艺术气质，后者则以不对称的外形和宛如 物票据。 折纸工艺的结构展现了超凡的技艺。尽管整体的 审美风格极具现代气息，一些细枝末节却和品牌 2. 申领退税 的过往创造了微妙的联系：100年前用于固定四轮 在您返程离境前，请前往海关柜台，出示退税表 马车内饰皮革衬垫的马鞍钉被改造成了重要的金 格和相关票据，获取海关印章，然后再到环球蓝 属配件，而姓名标牌则是完全按照一项1926年的 联的退税点领取退税款。 Létrange专利复刻而来。 像Poiret、Jean Patou或Létrange这样的设计师 联系方式： 品牌重起炉灶展现出更广泛的文化现象：我们生 taxfree@globalblue.com 活在一个日渐重视传统的时代，奢侈品行业中怀 +421 232 111 111 旧之风盛行，各家品牌的创意总监不断从往日旧 最低消费175.01欧元即可申请退税，能够节省高 作中挖掘灵感。就这一点而言，那些曾历经辉煌 达12%的商品购买价。请注意：您收到的退税款 又在数十年前被人们淡忘的时尚设计师们已经做 是增值税减去环球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择现 好了重生的准备。在过去的几年里，法国品牌对 金退税，部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 复兴风潮尤其敏感，它们在无限缅怀法国文化全 现金退税手续费。

58: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税

globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

63

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 28: CREAM OF THE CATWALKS ГЛАВНОЕ НА ПОДИУМАХ

ФОТО: GORUNWAY.COM

Современный стиль, гендерно нейтральная одежда, вещи для пляжа и впечатляющие локации для показов – этим запомнилась Парижская неделя моды. Фани Мари рассказывает о ключевых образах из коллекций весна-лето 2019 Сезон за сезоном Парижская неделя моды демонстрирует элегантные классические коллекции, которые отражают непринужденность парижского стиля je ne sais quoi (в переводе с французского – «я не знаю, что»). К сезону весна-лето 2019 даже сторонники классики представили современные модели, а заодно предложили зрителям иммерсивные представления и соединили моду с искусством. Больше всего говорили о показе Celine, и это ожидаемо: Эди Слиман представил первую коллекцию после его назначения креативным директором бренда в январе 2018. На Парижской Неделе моды было много пальто, темных оттенков и тяжелых тканей. И все же многие дизайнеры недвусмысленно напомнили, что впереди лето. Главным событием здесь стал показ модного дома Chanel, который всегда выбирает необычные места и декорации. В этот раз бренд пригласил зрителей во дворец Гран-Пале, где устроил настоящий пляж с песком и спасателям. Можно с уверенностью сказать, что в новой коллекции не останутся без внимания соломенные шляпы и кожаные круглые сумки, похожие на пляжные мячи. Марка Chloé выдержала всю серию пляжной одежды в стиле ретро, предложив вязаные белые накидки, бикини с высокой талией и пояса из канатов в морском стиле. Бренд Jacquemus незаменим в соломенных аксессуарах, и речь не только о широкополых шляпах: носить с собой летние принадлежности будет удобно в прочных сумках из ротанга, доступных в бежевом, огненно-оранжевом и защитном цветах. Большие пляжные сумки и вязаные накидки показал Сверху: Celine весна-лето 2019

ФОТО: GORUNWAY.COM

64

Сверху: Elie Saab весна-лето 2019

65

также бренд Sonia Rykiel. Его основательницу Соню èикель называли «Королевой вязаных вещей», а креативный директор бренда Жюли де Либран очень внимательно относится к наследию и постоянно переосмысляет вязаную одежду в своих коллекциях. Стиль унисекс настолько внедрился в моду, что обращение к нему парижских дизайнеров было только вопросом временем. Теперь и они начали создавать гендерно нейтральные линии одежды. Задала тон Клэр Уэйт Келлер: на показе Givenchy мужчины и женщины поднялись на подиум в одинаковой одежде, и только платья предназначались моделям-женщинам. При этом женственность осталась ключевой чертой всей коллекции. èаботая над ней, Уэйт Келлер изучила стиль швейцарской писатель-

Парижская Неделя моды подарит вам вдохновение к новому сезону ницы Аннемари Шварценбах, которая носила андрогинную одежду в 1930-е и значительно опередила свое время, переходя границы допустимого в одежде. Тренд на отсутствие границ задал и Джон Гальяно в коллекции для Maison Margiela. Одежда оверсайз оказалась скроена одинаково для мужчин и женщин: например, юбки из остатков плащей-накидок демонстрировали сильный фокус на портновском ремесле. В коллекции для Louis Vuitton Николя Гескьер продолжил работать с метафорой женской силы и предложил вещи, напоминающие защитную экипировку, рукава в стиле Жанны д’Арк и маскулинные силуэты с андрогинной отделкой. Не теряет популярности и животный принт. Обычно на парижских подиумах можно чаще увидеть цветочные принты, однако в этот раз дизайнеры решили продвигать леопардовый. Он в равной степени роскошный и привлекающий внимание, его легко сочетать. Пусть этот тренд не новый, но он по-настояще-

му ярко проявился в этом сезоне в коллекциях многих брендов от Elie Saab до Rochas. Например, Энтони Ваккарелло из Saint Laurent представил его в ретро-эстетике. Полупрозрачные платья-миди с глубоким декольте и боди с принтами и высокой талией демонстрировали парижскую чувственность во всем ее великолепии. А усиливали ее эффектные декорации, в которых модели «гуляли по воде» на фоне Эйфелевой башни. В Balenciaga Демна Гвасалия объединил прямые леопардовые шубы из искусственного меха и белые кожаные туфли на шпильках. Тем самым он подчеркнул, что 1990-е остаются с нами еще на один сезон. Даже бренд Off-White не сумел обойти животный принт, но Вирджил Абло всегда подходит к трендам творчески. В этот раз он добавил флуоресцентный зеленый узор на платья, пальто и даже перчатки. Elie Saab представили свои элегантные шелковые наряды с животным принтом и аллюзией на спортивный стиль, по этому же пути пошел Rochas. А Giambista Valli пошел еще дальше и объединил в одном комплекте меховые брюки и объемную шубу с сочетающимися животными принтами. Ваши предпочтения могут быть самыми разными: сочетаете ли вы мужскую и женскую одежду или нет, проводите все лето на пляже или нет, давно носите животные принты или полюбили их недавно, – Парижская Неделя моды подарит вам вдохновение к новому сезону.

34: A STYLISH RENAISSANCE ВОЗРОЖДЕНИЕ СТИЛЯ Французские модные дома, зенит славы которых уже в прошлом, созрели для обновления. Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает о брендах, которые возвращаются на авансцену Весь прошлый век французскую моду создавали влиятельные ателье и дома высокой моды. Многие из них со временем ушли в тень. Однако в последние годы наметился новый виток в жизни некогда культовых брендов, которые зазвучали с новой силой: Moynat вернулся в модный мир в 2011, Courrèges – в 2012, Poiret – в 2018, Jean Patou – буквально в последние несколько месяцев.

66

тела, и предлагает вариации на тему культовых шароваров, представленных в виде платья и комплектов с юбкой. Параллели с историческим Poiret не ограничиваются дизайном. Точно так же, как Пуаре работал с артистами, так Йин теперь создавала коллекцию весна-лето совместно с художником Бернардом Фризе. Модный дом с большой историей задает точку отсчета, а Йин вводит новшества и составляет созвучные времени коллекции. Совсем недавно началось обновление модного дома Jean Patou, и первые результаты появятся уже в этом году. Как и Скиапарелли, Жан Пату стал революционером в дизайне своей эпохи и основал ателье под собственным именем в 1912 году. Спустя более ста лет группа компаний LVMH приобрела контрольный пакет акций этой компании и в сентябре 2018 года назначила креативным директором Гийома Анри, который ранее работал в Nina Ricci. Теперь Анри предстоит создать новый образ бренда, дремавшего три десятилетия, поэтому все с большим

Сверху: Schiaparelli backstage на Неделе высокой моды

интересом ожидают его дебютную коллекцию в этом году. Это классический пример того, как большая группа компаний возвращает в модный мир дизайнерский бренд. Если посмотреть внимательнее, то многие крупные инвесторы и конгломераты проявляют интерес к возрождению великих, но забытых имен: помимо LVMH, этим занимаются Диего Делла Валле, Groupe Arnault, Shinsegae и другие. Как эксперты в своей сфере они хорошо осознают ценность модного наследия и умеют работать с современной аудиторией. Они играют на коллективной памяти и рассказывают о культовых открытиях модного дома. Как видно по результатам, эта схема работает. Иногда возрождение оказывается семейным делом: например, перезапуском бренда Létrange занимается Себастьян Летранж – седьмое поколение семьи, основавшей компанию в 1838 году. Изначально это была мастерская по шорным изделиям. Затем в ассортименте появилась

67

кожгалантерея для джентльменов, охотников и военных, а потом и высококачественные рубашки. В 2014 году Себастьян Летранж решил возродить бизнес своих предков и превратить его в современный бренд, который специализируется на сумках. «Больше 25 лет я общался с моей прабабушкой Генриэттой Летранж, и она многому меня научила, – вспоминает он. – В 2014 году я решил посвятить ей книгу о Létrange – семейном деле, которым она управляла более 30 лет. Копаясь в архивах, я нашел много того, о чем бабушка упоминала, но еще больше того, о чем она никогда не говорила. Это произвело на меня такое впечатления, что после многих месяцев изучения архивов я намного больше захотел возродить бренд, чем написать книгу». Летранжу пришлось очень тщательно проработать позиционирование бренда: «Рынок кожгалантереи огромный и очень конкурентный, на нем много серьезных игроков. éтобы наше предложение чем-то выделялось, мы решили сделать акцент на склонности Létrange к новаторским решениям. На роль художественного дизайнера мы пригласили Матиаса Жакме [прежде он работал на Vuitton и Dior], потому что он может мыслить за пределами дизайна и создавать новые конструкции, объединяя традиционную для Létrange находчивость с новыми технологиями и искусством». Под руководством Жакме у Létrange появились фирменные вещи. Сумка Empreinte связана с искусством: она оснащена необычной скульптурной ручкой. А модель Ego демонстрирует технические возможности благодаря асимметричной конструкции, напоминающей оригами. При всей современности эстетики, не забыта и связь с прошлым, за которую отвечают небольшие, но символические детали. Например, для металлической отделки используются кнопки-гвоздики, которыми 100 лет назад фиксировалась внутренняя часть седла, а бирка с брендом в точности копирует знак Létrange 1926 года. Возрождение брендов Poiret, Jean Patou, Létrange и других происходит на фоне очень важного культурного процесса. Мы живем в эпоху, когда наследие входит в моду. Индустрией роскоши завладела ностальгия, которая заставляет креативных директоров постоянно globalblue.ru | globalblue.com

углубляться в архивы. И, конечно, легендарные бренды, забытые десятилетия назад, обладают большим потенциалом к возрождению. В последние несколько лет это особенно остро ощущают французские компании, столь чувствительные к переменам в обществе. Они способны утолить ностальгию по былой славе своих героев и включиться в постоянный поиск новых идей для знаменитого французского стиля.

58: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине

Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде

Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты:

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

‫‪68‬‬

‫بعد غياب ملا يزيد عن ثالثة عقود وسيقدّم مجموعته األوىل‬ ‫هذه السنة‪.‬‬ ‫هذا مثال منوذجي عن مجموعة فاخرة كربى تنبش‬ ‫عالمة مص ّمم ما من غياهب النسيان‪ .‬يف الواقع إن أمعنت‬ ‫النظر‪ ،‬الحظت أنّه باإلضافة إىل ‪ ،LVMH‬أسامء عىل سبيل‬ ‫‪Groupe Arnault‬‬

‫و‪ Diego Della Valle‬و‪ Shinsegae‬هي من بني‬ ‫املستثمرين الكبار والرشكات الجامعة التي تحثّ عىل إعادة‬ ‫إحياء هكذا عالمات‪ .‬بفضل خربتهم يف مجال الفخامة‪ ،‬يفهمون‬ ‫معني وكيفيّة إعادة‬ ‫متاماً قيمة اإلرث الذي يتمتّع به دار اأزياء ّ‬ ‫ابتكاره للجمهور العصي‪ .‬ال ّ‬ ‫شك أنّه ميكن إعادة إحياء عالمة‬ ‫بنجاح من خالل الرجوع إىل الذاكرة الجامعيّة ومجموعة الصور‬ ‫املتعلّقة بذلك الدار‪.‬‬ ‫إال أنّه يف بعض األحيان‪ ،‬يقوم أحد أفراد العائلة بهذه‬ ‫امله ّمة؛ عىل سبيل املثال‪ ،‬أعيد مؤخرا ً إحياء عالمة ‪Létrange‬‬ ‫من قبل ‪ Sébastien Létrange‬وهو من الجيل السابع‬ ‫تأسست العالمة سنة ‪ 1838‬منطلق ًة من‬ ‫املؤسسة‪ّ .‬‬ ‫للعائلة ّ‬ ‫السوج وراحت تبتكر سلعاً جلديّة للنبالء والصيّادين‬ ‫صناعة ّ‬ ‫والعساكر قبل أن تصبح مص ّنعة للقمصان عالية الجودة‪ .‬ويف‬ ‫العام ‪ ،2014‬ق ّرر ‪Sébastien Létrange‬إعادة إحياء‬ ‫مختص بالحقائب‬ ‫العالمة من خالل تحويلها إىل إسم تجاري‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫العصيّة‪.‬‬ ‫يتذكّر قائالً‪“ :‬طوال ‪ 25‬سنة‪ ،‬أمضيت الكثري من الوقت‬ ‫أتبادل األحاديث مع جدّة والدي ‪Henriette Létrange‬‬ ‫فكانت ملهمتي بطرقٍ متعدّدة‪ .‬سنة ‪ ،2014‬ق ّررت أن أك ّرمها‬

‫يبدو أن إعادة إحياء عالمة‬ ‫عريقة فكر ٌة ناجحة وفعالة‪.‬‬ ‫من خالل تأليف كتاب عن ‪ ،Létrange‬الدار العائيل الذي‬ ‫تولّت إدارته لثالثني سنة‪ .‬ويف خالل بحثي يف األرشيف‪ ،‬اكتشفت‬ ‫بعض التفاصيل التاريخيّة التي كانت قد ذكرتها وأخرى كثرية “‬ ‫تذكرها؛ لدرج ٍة أنّني بعد عدّة أشهر من العمل‪ ،‬شعرت برغبة‬ ‫يف إعادة إحياء العالمة بدالً من تأليف كتاب فحسب‪”.‬‬ ‫وللقيام بذلك‪ ،‬كان ال ب ّد لـ ‪ Létrange‬أن يضع‬ ‫العالمة يف موقع مختار بعناية‪ .‬يقول يف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬سوق‬ ‫السلع الجلديّة واسع وعايل التنافسيّة وفيه أسامء كربى‪”.‬‬ ‫ويضيف‪“ :‬لتقديم تصاميم مختلفة‪ ،‬ق ّررنا الرتكيز عىل‬ ‫الخاص باالبتكار؛ فاخرتنا ‪Mathias‬‬ ‫أسلوب ‪Létrange‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪( Jaquemet‬عمل سابقاً لدى ‪ Vuitton‬و‪ )Dior‬كمص ّمم‬ ‫فني ألنّه قادر عىل التفكري مبا هو أبعد من التصميم وعىل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تخيّل طرق جديدة للعمل من خالل مزج درايتنا التقليديّة‬ ‫بتقنيّات أو فنون جديدة‪”.‬‬ ‫تجدر اإلشارة إىل أنّه يف عهد ‪ ،Jaquemet‬باتت‬ ‫‪ Empreinte‬و‪ Ego‬الحقيبتني املمثّلتني لعالمة ‪:Létrange‬‬ ‫تتمتّع األوىل بنفحة فنيّة من خالل مسكتها املنحوتة وتتّسم‬ ‫األخرى مبهارة تقنيّة بفضل شكلها املطوي الالمتامثل‪ .‬بالرغم‬

‫من األسلوب الجاميل فائق العصيّة‪ ،‬تذكّر بعض التفاصيل‬ ‫الصغرية مبايض العالمة‪ :‬ت ّم تعديل مسامري السوج املستخدمة‬ ‫منذ ‪ 100‬سنة لتثبيت البطانة الجلديّة الداخليّة يف عربات‬ ‫الخيل وأصبحت قطعاً معدنيّة أساسيّة‪ ،‬يف حني ما زال اإلسم عىل‬ ‫حاله منذ سنة ‪.1926‬‬ ‫يأيت تجديد عالمات مص ّممني عىل سبيل ‪ Poiret‬و‪Jean‬‬ ‫‪ Patou‬و‪ Létrange‬كجزء من ظاهرة ثقافيّة أوسع‪ ،‬إذ نعيش‬ ‫يف حقب ٍة بات اإلرث فيها تعبريا ً ط ّناناً ويبدو من الواضح يف عا“‬ ‫الفخامة لجوء مدراء االبتكار مرارا ً وتكرارا ً إىل األرشيف بحثاً‬ ‫عن اإللهام‪ .‬ويف هذا الصدد‪ ،‬نجد مص ّممي أزياء ذائعي الصيت‬ ‫فقدوا بريقهم عرب العقود وباتوا اليوم مستعدّين للنهوض من‬ ‫جديد‪ .‬وجدير باإلشارة إىل أ ّن العالمات التجاريّة الفرنسيّة‬ ‫بالتحديد‪ ،‬استُحدثت يف السنوات األخرية املاضية‪ ،‬معيد ًة إىل‬ ‫الذاكرة ذروة العبقريّة الثقافيّة يف فرنسا ويف الوقت عينه باحث ًة‬ ‫دوماً عن نسخ جديدة عن األسلوب الفرنيس العريق‪.‬‬

‫‪WHEN YOU SHOP THE‬‬ ‫‪WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE :58‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪،‬‬ ‫تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العا“‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫ما عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل‬ ‫بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة‬ ‫املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫أحد مكاتب االسرتداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ 175.01‬يورو وادّخر حتّى ‪ 12%‬من مثن‬

‫م”رتياتك‪ .‬ي”مل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه‬ ‫مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف‬ ‫بعض املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد‬ ‫رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪69‬‬

‫يف األعىل‪ Poiret :‬ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪2019‬‬

‫‪70‬‬

‫مع مرورالسنني‪ .‬لكن شهدت األعوام األخرية رغبة متزايدة يف‬ ‫‪ Waight Keller‬من الكاتبة السويرسيّة ‪Annemarie‬‬ ‫إعادة إحياء بعض األسامء الالمعة الغائبة عن الساحة والتي‬ ‫‪ Schwarzenbach‬التي ارتدت مالبس رجاليّة يف الثالثينات‬ ‫كانت قد ساهمت يف إبراز إسم فرنسا يف مجال التصميم عىل‬ ‫وسبقت عرصها‪ ،‬ثائر ًة عىل قواعد اللّبس‪.‬‬ ‫سبيل ‪ Moynat‬سنة ‪ 2011‬و‪ Courrègesin‬سنة ‪2012‬‬ ‫القصات واألساليب التي تتخطّى الحدود‪،‬‬ ‫أ ّما بالنسبة إ“ ّ‬ ‫و‪ Poiret‬سنة ‪ 2018‬ومؤ ّخرا ً ‪.Jean Patou‬‬ ‫ال عجب أن اعتمدها ‪ John Galliano‬يف دار ‪Maison‬‬ ‫فمن خالل إعادة إحياء دور األزياء الفرنسيّة‬ ‫‪ .Margiela‬ت ّم تفصيل مالبس فضفاضة وغري متامثلة بالطريقة‬ ‫الشهرية‪ ،‬يربز بريق املص ّممني الذين يحملون إسم هذه‬ ‫نفسها للنساء والرجال؛ يف ت ّنورة ت ّم تفصيلها من بقايا وشاح‬ ‫وتتجىل أمجادهم املاضية‪ .‬فتجد أسامء عىل سبيل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫العالمات‬ ‫عىل سبيل املثال‪ ،‬برز الرتكيز الكبريعىل املهارة‪ .‬ولدى ‪Louis‬‬ ‫بحس من التأ لّق‪.‬‬ ‫‪ ،Vuitton‬واصل ‪ Nicolas Ghesquière‬مه ّمته يف متكني‬ ‫‪ Schiaparelli‬و‪ Poiret‬متّسمة ّ‬ ‫تسلّقت املص ّممة ‪ Elsa Schiaparelli‬سلّم الشهرة يف‬ ‫النساء من خالل مالبس واسعة أشبه بدروع وأكامم كتلك يف‬ ‫الثالثينات من خالل دار أزيائها البارييس‪ .‬كانت إحدى‬ ‫أزياء املحاربات ومن خالل مالبس رجاليّة ارتدتها عارضات‬ ‫منافسات ‪ Chanel‬ولها عالقة بالرسياليّة – جمعتها صداقة‬ ‫تتمتّعن مبالمح ذكوريّة‪.‬‬ ‫مع أمثال ‪ -Salvador Dalí‬بالتايل‪ ،‬إنّها شخصيّة ملفتة‬ ‫ال ب ّد يف النهاية من الحديث عن نقش جلد الحيوان‬ ‫جديرة باالهتامم‪ .‬بعد أن كانت عالمتها التجاريّة غارقة يف‬ ‫األشهر عىل الدوام‪ .‬اعتدنا رؤية نقوش األزهار األنثويّة عىل‬ ‫سبات منذ سنة ‪ ،1954‬قام مالكها الحايل ‪Diego Della‬‬ ‫منصات العرض الباريسيّة؛ أ ّما هذه امل ّرة‪ ،‬فر َّوج املص ّممون‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Valle‬بإعادة إحيائها لتدخل عامل األزياء مجدّدا ً سنة ‪2014‬‬ ‫كل يشء وهو‬ ‫نقش جلد الفهد بق ّوة‪ .‬إنّه خيار أنيق يتامىش مع ّ‬ ‫وتحظى بلقب األزياء الفاخرة سنة ‪ .2017‬يف حني تستغرق‬ ‫أن ليس موضة جديدة‪،‬‬ ‫غني وملفت‪ .‬صحيح ّ‬ ‫يف الوقت عينه ّ‬ ‫العالمات الجديدة وقتاً ال يستهان به لتستحق الجدارة‪،‬‬ ‫لك ّنه سائد بق ّوة يف مجموعات هذا املوسم‪ ،‬من ‪Elie Saab‬‬ ‫تتمتّع ‪ Schiaparelli‬بصيت مذهل وتقدّم أرضيّة متينة‬ ‫إ“ ‪ .Rochas‬أ ّما املص ّمم ‪ Anthony Vaccarello‬لدى‬ ‫ميكن البناء عليها‪ .‬لدى تعيني ‪ Bertrand Guyon‬مديرا ً‬ ‫‪ ،Saint Laurent‬فاعتمد أسلوب الريرتو؛ من خالل فساتني‬ ‫رشفني أن أكون جزءا ً من‬ ‫متوسطة الطول ومالبس عالية الخرص بنقوش‬ ‫شفّافة مق ّورة ّ‬ ‫للتصميم سنة ‪ ،2015‬قال‪“ :‬ي ّ‬ ‫منصة ‪ Schiaparelli‬اليوم وأساهم يف تطويرها‪ ،‬محرتماً إرثها‬ ‫جسد الرهافة الباريسيّة ومشت العارضات عىل ّ‬ ‫مختلطة‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫وتاريخها ومضيفاً إليها يف الوقت عينه نفحة من العرصيّة‬ ‫نسق‬ ‫مبلّلة باملاء مبحاذاة برج ‪ .Eiffel‬ولدى ‪ّ ،Balenciaga‬‬ ‫والحداثة؛ وهذا ما لطاملا أظهرته ‪”.Elsa Schiaparelli‬‬ ‫‪ Demna Gvasalia‬معاطف مربّعة من الفرو الصناعي‬ ‫تقع العالمة اليوم يف شارع ‪ 21‬يف ساحة ‪ Vendôme‬وهو‬ ‫بنقش جلد الفهد مع أحذية من الجلد األبيض رفيعة الكعب‪،‬‬ ‫العنوان نفسه ملق ّر العالمة يف عهد ‪Elsa Schiaparelli‬‬ ‫مشريا ً إ“ عودة موضة التسعينات ملوسمٍ إضايف‪.‬‬ ‫مل تتمكّن حتّى عالمة ‪ Off-White‬من مقاومة نقش جلد نفسها‪ ،‬ويف ذلك صلة رمزيّة إضافيّة باملايض‪.‬‬ ‫يف محاولة –عادة إنعاش عالمات غابت عن األنظار‬ ‫الحيوان‪ ،‬لكن قدّمها ‪ Virgil Abloh‬بأسلوبه الخاص فأضاف‬ ‫كل ما هو جديد‪ .‬يف‬ ‫لسنوات‪ ،‬مث ّة إمكانيّة كبرية البتكار ّ‬ ‫نقشاً أخض مشعاً عىل الفساتني واملعاطف وحتّى القفّازات‪ .‬يف‬ ‫عرب ‪ Elie Saab‬عن أناقته املعتادة يف بدالت حريريّة لكن الوقت عينه‪ ،‬عىل املص ّممني إحالل التوازن بني الرتا” وإعادة‬ ‫حني ّ‬ ‫عمليّة‪ ،‬وكذلك فعل دار ‪ Rochas‬و‪ Giambattista Valli‬االبتكار؛ وذلك باحرتام إر” العالمة فيام يحملونها إ“ القرن‬ ‫منسق مع معطف الواحد والعرشين‪ .‬عىل سبيل املثال‪ ،‬عندما إعيد إحياء عالمة‬ ‫الذي رفع املعايري من خالل رسوال من الفرو ّ‬ ‫‪ Poiret‬السنة املاضية‪ ،‬التزمت املديرة االبتكاريّة ‪Yiqing‬‬ ‫من الفرو بنقش جلد حيوان مناسب‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Yin‬بقواعد العالمة يف مجموعتها الثانية لربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫إن كنت تهوى املزج بني عنارص من املالبس النسائيّة‬ ‫‪ 2019‬فاستوحت من أسلوب ‪ Poiret Paul‬يف التشكيل‬ ‫والرجاليّة أو كنت من محبّي نقش جلد الحيوان منذ زمن‬ ‫عىل املانيكان ومن مفاهيم مامثلة تقوم عىل األقمشة املرنة‬ ‫كل فصل الصيف عىل البحر‪،‬‬ ‫أو مؤ ّخرا ً أو كنت تفضّ ل متضية ّ‬ ‫منصات عرض األزياء الباريسيّة مصدرا ً ممتازا ً لإللهام املتح ّركة وط ّورت رسوال ‪( harem‬واسع يف األعىل‪ ،‬يضيف‬ ‫ستجد عىل ّ‬ ‫عند الكاحل) الذي تشتهر به العالمة إ“ فستان وت ّنورة‬ ‫للموسم الجديد‪.‬‬ ‫ينسدالن كالوشاح‪ .‬إال أنّها مل متاثله يف التصميم فحسب‪،‬‬ ‫‪ A STYLISH RENAISSANCE :34‬بل كام عمل ‪ Poiret‬مع ف ّنانني‪ ،‬تعاونت ‪ Yin‬مع الرسام‬ ‫‪ Bernard Frize‬يف مجموعة الربيع‪/‬الصيف‪ .‬لذا ترى هذا‬ ‫نهضة متألّقة‬ ‫الدار املميّز يقدّم إطارا ً ميكن ‪ Yin‬من خالله االبتكار وإنتاج‬ ‫تصاميم معارصة وذات صلة‪.‬‬ ‫من األسامء التي عادت مؤخرا ً إ“ الساحة هذا العام‪،‬‬ ‫دور األزياء الفرنس ّية التي برزت يف السنوات‬ ‫مؤسسه منذ‬ ‫الغابرة‪ ،‬اليوم مستعدّ ة للتجدّ د‪ .‬تشري ‪Ginger‬‬ ‫دار األزياء ‪ Jean Patou‬الذي يحمل إسم ّ‬ ‫‪ Rose Clark‬إىل األسامء الراقية التي عادت إىل‬ ‫سنة ‪ .1912‬عىل غرار ‪ ،Schiaparelli‬كان ‪Jean Patou‬‬ ‫حصة كبرية‬ ‫األضواء‪.‬‬ ‫مص ّمامً رائدا ً يف عرصه‪ .‬اشرتت مجموعة ‪ّ LVMH‬‬ ‫من العالمة يف اآلونة األخرية وعيّنت ‪Guillaume Henry‬‬ ‫مديرا ً ابتكاريّاً يف أيلول ‪2018‬؛ وهو الذي عمل سابقاً لدى‬ ‫صقلت دور األزياء الكربى عامل األزياء يف فرنسا يف خالل‬ ‫‪ .Nina Ricci‬تتمثّل مه ّمته برسم صورة جديدة للعالمة‬ ‫القرن املايض وكان البعض منها قد عجز عن إكامل الطريق‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

扫描二维码， 关注环球蓝联官方微信账号 发现热门购物资讯、了解 退税流程、追踪退税进度， 获取在线客服及其他 退税服务。 Scan the QR code to subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services Receive the latest shopping and tax refund information.

Track and manage your refund, and get online customer service and other tax refund services.

立即扫码关注 Scan to subscribe now

‫‪72‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬

‫‪CREAM OF THE‬‬ ‫‪CATWALKS :28‬‬

‫منصات العرض‬ ‫أروع ّ‬

‫تصوير‪GORUNWAY.COM :‬‬

‫مت ّيز أسبوع باريس للموضة باألساليب العرص ّية‬ ‫واملالبس املناسبة للجنسني والتصاميم املبتكرة‬ ‫لذوات األجسام املمشوقة ومبواقع العرض‬ ‫املذهلة‪ .‬تسلّط ‪ Fani Mari‬الضوء عىل‬ ‫اإلطالالت األساس ّية لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪2019‬‬ ‫موسم بعد آخر‪ ،‬يؤكّد أسبوع برلني للموضة أنّه املرتع‬ ‫تجسد‬ ‫الرئييس للمجموعات الكالسيكيّة األنيقة التي ّ‬ ‫األسلوب البارييس السهل املمتنع‪ .‬يف موسم ربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫‪ ،2019‬رأينا حتّى أكرث املص ّممني كالسيكيّة يعرضون‬ ‫مجموعات أكرث عرصيّة‪ ،‬مقدّمني تجارب تفاعليّة تجمع‬ ‫بني األزياء والف ّن‪ .‬بالطبع وكام كان متوقّعاً‪ ،‬جذبت عالمة‬ ‫كل األضواء عند عرض املجموعة األوىل لـ ‪Hedi‬‬ ‫‪ّ Céline‬‬ ‫‪ Slimane‬بعد تعيينه املدير االبتكاري للعالمة يف كانون‬ ‫الثاين ‪.2018‬‬ ‫صحيح أنّنا رأينا الكثري من املعاطف واأللوان الداكنة‬ ‫منصات العرض الباريسيّة هذا‬ ‫واألقمشة السميكة عىل ّ‬ ‫املوسم‪ ،‬لكن ذكّرنا عدّة مص ّممني وبوضوح‪ ،‬باملوسم الذي‬ ‫منيض تجاهه وهو حتامً الصيف‪ .‬وطبعا ً قدّمت ‪Chanel‬‬ ‫العرض األجمل وهي املعروفة دوماً باألفكار الخالقة عىل‬ ‫مستوى الديكور واختيار املوقع‪ .‬لهذا املوسم‪ ،‬جلبت‬ ‫الشاطئ بأكمله‪ ،‬برمله وح ّراسه‪ ،‬إىل قرص ‪.Grand Palais‬‬ ‫ش وحقائب جلديّة عىل‬ ‫متيّزت املجموعة بقبّعات من الق ّ‬ ‫شكل كرات طائرة شاطئيّة ستأرس القلوب ال محال‪ .‬أ ّما‬ ‫‪ ،Chloé‬فاعتمدت أسلوب الريرتو من خالل أوشحة بحر‬ ‫بيضاء محبوكة ومالبس سباحة عالية الخرص وأحزمة عىل‬ ‫هيئة حبال بحريّة‪ .‬يف مجال األكسسوارات املصنوعة من‬ ‫ش ‪ ،‬ال ب ّد من اإلشارة إىل ‪ Jacquemus‬التي باإلضافة إىل‬ ‫الق ّ‬ ‫القبّعات الواسعة‪ ،‬قدّمت حقائب كبرية من الخيزران بألوان‬ ‫كل احتياجات البحر‪.‬‬ ‫البيج والزيتي والربتقايل املحروق لحمل ّ‬ ‫برزت حقائب البحر الكبرية واألوشحة املحبوكة لدى عالمة‬ ‫‪ Sonia Rykiel‬أيضاً‪ ،‬التي لُقّبت مبلكة املالبس املحبوكة‪.‬‬ ‫ومن الواضح أ ّن املديرة االبتكاريّة ‪Julie de Libran‬‬ ‫متمسكة بإرث العالمة إىل ح ّد كبري وتدخل املالبس املحبوكة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يف مجموعاتها باستمرار‪.‬‬ ‫اتّجهت العالمات التجاريّة أكرث فأكرث إىل املجموعات‬ ‫املناسبة للجنسني وما لبث املص ّممون الباريسيّون أن‬ ‫الحظوا ذلك وبدأوا اعتامد أساليب مالمئة للرجال والنساء‪.‬‬ ‫حدّدت ‪ Clare Waight Keller‬هذا املسار يف عرض‬ ‫أزياء ‪ Givenchy‬من خالل نساء ورجال ارتدوا املالبس‬ ‫املخصصة حرصيّاً لعارضات األزياء‪.‬‬ ‫نفسها باستثناء الفساتني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يف حني بقي األسلوب األنثوي حارضا ً بق ّوة‪ .‬استوحت‬ ‫يف األعىل‪ Celine :‬ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪2019‬‬

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE

Find out more at globalblue.com

SOUVENIR

For a playful take on delicate fine jewellery, look to Parisian jeweller Yvonne Léon. Born into a family of jewellers, Léon launched her eponymous brand in 2013, having started her career as a fashion magazine stylist. Perhaps best known for dessous d’oreille under-ear earrings, her collections take inspiration from flora, fauna and all things fun. The pictured earrings, inspired by pineapples, are crafted in 18-carat yellow gold and feature multicoloured Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 58

sapphires and two eight-carat pearls, which can be removed for more versatile wearing options.

These are far from classic pearl earrings and far more brilliant because of it. lt Yvonne Léon earrings, €2,875, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, yvonneleon.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

PHOTO: DAVID SANTINI/PRESTIGE PACKSHOT

THE SPIRIT OF SUMMER

THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

12, B OULEVARD DES CAPUCINES – PARIS 9 E BUCHERER.COM