SHOP Rome AW16

ROME | РИМ | 罗马 | ローマ

ROME Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17

Page 50 OFF THE BEATEN TRACK: follow our guide to discover the secret side of Rome

Jewelry Collection.

Discover more.

ROMA Via del Corso 122/123/124/125, ang. Via delle Carrozze 96/97/98/99 - T.+39 06 69923930 Via Cola di Rienzo 245/247/249 - T.+39 06 3218479 Viale Europa 70/72/74 - T.+39 06 59290380 Galleria Commerciale Porta di Roma, Via a. Lionello 201 - T.+39 06 87074331

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this historic European capital. Rome has much to ofer, as our guide on page 82 reveals, and in this issue we also recommend a selection of the city’s hidden gems (page 50). On page 62 we profle Italian leather maestro Wanny Di Filippo, founder of the Il Bisonte brand, and readers who appreciate high-end perfume will enjoy our feature on Rome fragrance maker Paola Bottai (page 70).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Rome. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Rome

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris

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CONTRIBUTORS

ILLUSTRATION: FERNANDO VOLKEN TOGNI

Fernando Volken Togni Fernando Volken Togni’s bold, graphic style made him the perfect choice of illustrator for this season’s SHOP Rome cover, which was inspired by our feature on the city’s more unusual attractions.

Read more about our recommendations, from the Colosseum at night to the Vatican gardens and the ancient Monte Testaccio site, on page 50. Fernando’s other clients include Google, Qatar Airways and Orange.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. globalblue.com

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online.

Isabella Redmond Styles Isabella Redmond Styles, SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor, studied at the London College of Fashion and has written for publications including the Daily Mail, Huffington Post and Easy Living.

featuring BRET EASTON ELLIS and CAROLINE VREELAND shop at santonishoes.com

ROMA - Piazza di Spagna, 79 - Ph. +39 06 69922394

ROMA

V I A D E L C O R S O, 1 7 9

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Fernando Volken Togni Contributor Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

News editor Ginger Clark

Print Dane Consultancy

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

G L O B A L B L U E I T L AY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Sabrina Schiavone, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Diana Martin, Sonia Mura, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

MIRANDA KERR UPSTATE NEW YORK, APRIL 2016 MARELLA.COM ROMA VIA FRATTINA 129/131 VIA DEL CORSO 89/90 VIA APPIA NUOVA 7/11 CENTRO COMM. EUROMA 2 CENTRO COMM. PORTA DI ROMA, LOC. BUFALOTTA

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CONTENTS Products

Features

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50

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Rome this season My Favourites Fabrizio Russo of the Astrologo Ottica eyewear store reveals his top tips for autumn/winter 2016/17 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

News 38 40

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Rome News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

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Cover story: The Rome Less Travelled Hannah Lewis explores some of the city’s lesser-known gems, from ancient relics to the eateries locals love Look For The Buffalo Il Bisonte’s buffalo logo is as distinctive as the label’s beautifully crafted, original leather goods. Founder Wanny Di Filippo tells Sally McIlhone the story behind this Italian brand’s success Scent From Italy Leading Rome perfume maker Paola Bottai works with classic Italian-grown ingredients. She tells Josh Sims why she thinks Italian perfumes are the fragrances of the future

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

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Above: leathercrafting in Il Bisonte’s atelier

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CONTENTS

Experience

Essentials

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104 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Table Talk Avoid Rome’s tourist-trap restaurants and discover the city’s lighter, healthier fare.

Isabella Redmond Styles recommends some modern, fresh and vibrant options

Guide Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

106 Русский Перевод 112 美文翻译 116 日本語翻訳

Souvenir 122 The essential item to bring home

E NGL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购 物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent

PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

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Translations

LOUNGE EXPERIENCE APP

SHOP TAX FREE IN ITALY

Discover the new tax refund experience with Global Blue’s Lounge, saving you time and money. Plus learn about shopping trips in Italy, city maps, events and local stores information.

Download the Lounge Experience app now

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CHECK OUT

BY THE BOOK Prada’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection radiates vintage glamour. This Cahier bag was inspired by historic hardback books and the power of memories. It references the characteristics of prized leather-bound editions, such as elaborate protective corners and contrasting spine, and also features bronzeSave up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

coloured detailing and sumptuous saffiano leather. Founded in Milan in 1913 Prada is known for its luxurious, sophisticated and effortlessly glamorous designs. The new collection is yet another triumph and epitomises Prada’s flair for avant-garde creations. dw Prada Cahier bag, €2,400, Prada, Via dei Condotti 92-95, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0897, prada.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 92

V I A BOC CA D I L EON E 8 - ROMA

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MY FAVOURITES: Fabrizio Russo Fabrizio Russo, owner and dispensing optician at the Astrologo Ottica high-end eyewear store, which opened in 2006, bases his business on exceptionally high-quality goods and excellent customer service. Astrologo Ottica offers a vast choice of handmade eyewear created by the world’s most respected Italian and international designers; customers from all over the world can also shop for their favourite eyewear at the Astrologo Ottica online store. Fabrizo Russo shares his Rome favourites with Ximena Daneri 1

1. ‘These are my favourite handmade frames: a skilful combination of stylish design and the fnest materials’ Mykita/Damir Doma Madeleine frames, €425; Irresistor Envuillgu frames, €480; LGR Lawrence Flap frames, €390, Astrologo Ottica, Via della Fontanella di Borghese 2526, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6819 3071, otticastrologo.com

2. ‘I often go on business trips to various Italian and international optical fairs. I take my MacBook Pro with me every time and it never lets me down’ Apple 13-inch MacBook Pro, from €1,499, Futura Grafca, Via Merulana 245E/F, 00185 Rome, +39 06 489 3031, apple.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

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5. ‘Rolex is the choice that represents my punctuality, accuracy and self-respect’

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King watch, €5,800, Hausmann & Co, Via del Corso 406, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 1501, rolex.com

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PHOTOS: (5) CLAUDE BOSSEL; (6) © DIOR

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3. ‘In the digital age, it is important not to forget the pleasure of handwriting.

My Aurora Thesi pen is as indispensable in my everyday life as any of my digital gadgets’ Aurora Thesi pen, €250, Progetto Impresa, Via Barberini 40, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4201 0840, aurorapen.it

globalblue.com

4. ‘These suede lace-up shoes

by Tod’s with traditional English-style wingtip perforations are a real gentleman’s choice’ Tod’s shoes, €340, Tod’s, Via della Fontanella di Borghese 56A57, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6821 0066, tods.com

6. ‘Dior Sauvage is defnitely my signature fragrance; it’s both confdent and intense’ Dior Sauvage eau de toilette, 100ml, €85.90, Dior, Via dei Condotti 1, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 4489, dior.com

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GOLDEN ACCENTS

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Warm metallic shades and accessories add a touch of glamour for the perfect day-to-night look 1

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1. Ray-Ban glasses, €149, Vision Optika, Via di San Claudio 87, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 5983, ray-ban.com

3. Swarovski earrings, €249, Swarovski, Largo Goldoni 48, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 1615, swarovski.com

2. 7 For All Mankind dress, €260, 7 For All Mankind, Via delle Carrozze 44-45A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 9294 7969, 7forallmankind.com

4. Burberry bag, €1,895, Burberry, Via dei Condotti 59-61, 00187 Rome, +39 06 675 0101, burberry.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

5. Etro shoes, €650, Etro, Via del Babuino 102, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 8257, etro.com

PHOTOS: (2) ALEX KHAMRAEV; (5) 46AND2 STUDIO

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loriblu.com

ROMA - Piazza di Spagna 2/A - Tel. +39 06 69921910

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SHARP ANGLES This season’s must-have handbags offer bold geometric prints in eye-catching monochrome

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1. Louis Vuitton bag, price on request, Louis Vuitton, Via dei Condotti 13-15, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0000, louisvuitton.com

3. Issey Miyake clutch, €190, Luna e l’Altra, Piazza Pasquino 76, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 4995, isseymiyake.com

2. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,690, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via dei Condotti 73-74, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1565, ferragamo.com

4. Tod’s Wave bag, €1,600, Tod’s, Via dei Condotti 53A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1089, tods.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

5. Emporio Armani bag, €480, Emporio Armani, Via del Babuino 140, 00187 Rome, +39 06 322 1581, armani.com

PHOTOS: (2) TOCCAFONDO RAVI; (3) © YOSHINAGA YASUAKI

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R O M A V i a d e i C o n d o t t i, 4 6

O L I V I A PA L E R M O m a x a n d c o.c o m

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SIMPLY SLEEK

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Keep your wardrobe minimal this season by combining block colours with cool metallic accents 1

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1. Boss laptop case, €445, Boss, Via Frattina 136, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6173, hugoboss.com

3. Cos coat, €150, Cos, Via Borgognona 36, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3283 2707, cosstores.com

5. Nixon watch, €150, Elvis Lives, Via di San Francesco a Ripa 27, 00153 Rome, +39 06 4550 9542, nixon.com

2. Diesel jeans, €140, Diesel, Piazza di Spagna 18, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6817, diesel.com

4. Montblanc pen, €2,410, Montblanc, Via dei Condotti 70, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1894, montblanc.com

6. BeoPlay H6 headphones, €299, Bang & Olufsen, Viale di Tor di Quinto 25, 00191 Rome, +39 06 333 3799, bang-olufsen.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

PHOTOS: (6) RASMUS DENGSØ

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HIGH SHINE Draw inspiration from Fornasetti’s bold graphics when you accessorise your look this winter 1

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1. Michael Kors coat, €495, Michael Kors, Via dei Condotti 36, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1372, michaelkors.com

3. Chanel lipstick, price on request, Sephora, Piazza di Spagna 68, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 5139, chanel.com

5. Fornasetti tray, €420, Campomarzio70, Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7739, fornasetti.com

2. Buccellati Opera ring, €2,600, Angeletti, Via dei Condotti 11A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1207, buccellati.com

4. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €395, Alberto Guardiani, Piazza di Spagna 62, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0973, albertoguardiani.com

6. Trussardi bag, from €1,900, Tru Trussardi, Via Frattina 42-43, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6938 0939, trussardi.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

samsonite.com

© Samsonite 2016 ROMA House of Samsonite via del Tritone 149 - MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL) Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI) Castel Romano Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)

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PHOTO: GIGI DE DONATO

SHOP WINDOW

WATCH THIS SPACE Omega’s Rome flagship, located in a striking 18th-century building, brings the watchmaker’s timeless designs to the heart of the Eternal City.

Founded in 1848, Omega has a storied history, beginning as a small family company and growing to become one of the biggest timepiece specialists in the world, winning numerous awards for precision and taking part in NASA missions, the Olympic Games and more along Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

the way. An expert team of watch enthusiasts, specially trained to help you choose the perfect timepiece, warmly greets visitors to the Rome boutique. Beautifully designed to reflect the brand’s dual commitments to the upholding of traditions and the quest for innovation, this is a must-visit store for anyone looking for the latest in luxury timepieces. hl Omega, Via dei Condotti 38-40, 00187 Rome, +39 06 697 9151, omegawatches.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 92

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100 YEARS OF ACQUA DI PARMA This year Acqua di Parma celebrates its centenary. In honour of the milestone, the company is looking back at its heritage and celebrating Colonia, its fragrance that dates back to 1916. The Colonia Centenary Edition (â‚Ź980) consists of a limited edition of 100 bottles enclosed in sterling silver cases designed by jewellery brand Damiani. The cases, which reference the precious bottle holders that were popular among aristocrats during the 1920s, are created using a complicated and delicate process involving lamination, laser cutting and welding. As well as being engraved with the royal shield and stamped with the Damiani hallmark, each bottle of this exclusive centenary fragrance is numbered. gc Acqua di Parma, Piazza di Spagna 27, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6692 2050, acquadiparma.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

ALL ABOUT MIA Design lovers in Rome should be sure to pay a visit to Mia, a combined gallery and boutique which is dedicated to all that is unique and beautiful. Its three founders are self-confessed design obsessives, and their passion shines through in the impressive collection of furniture, home accessories, crockery and more. Selecting the best of both traditional and contemporary design, the team at Mia has created a unique space which challenges traditional ideas of luxury. The team views interior design and home dĂŠcor as an expression of individuality and personality, and is on hand to help with your every design need, whatever your style. The collection is constantly evolving, too, so there is always something new to discover at Mia. hl Mia, Via di Ripetta 224, 00186 Rome, +39 06 9784 1892, galleriamia.it Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

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EYE TO EYE Whether you’re looking for a pair of statement sunglasses or sophisticated reading glasses, Monocle is the place to go when you’re visiting Rome.

Set up in 2010, it stocks the very best luxury eyewear, opting for independent labels rather than commercial brands. Here you’ll be able to browse stylish spectacles from top names such as Chrome Hearts, Dita, Thom Browne, Mykita, Kuboraum and 8000, as well as Monocle’s own brand, which is handmade in Italy. gc Monocle, Via di Campo Marzio 13, 00186 Rome, +39 06 683 3668, monocle.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 98

JOIN THE CLUB Hogan, established in 1986, celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. For autumn/winter 2016/17, the label, known for contemporary footwear, is stripping its designs back to basics, resulting in sleek, bold styles. Hogan’s signature Traditional 20.15 trainer (€350) combines sportiness with a strong element of luxury this season: a black and white colour scheme is paired with silver or gold leather and neatly accompanied by a tag reading ‘The Hogan Club’. It’s a trainer with a difference. gc Hogan, Via del Babuino 110, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6828, hogan.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88

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ALPINE ADVENTURES

SPANISH ROOTS

Moncler, firmly rooted in the world of skiing, is also a fashion force to be reckoned with; this season the brand’s collection is a seamless blend of technical elements and stylishness, with a strong focus on outerwear.

Classic styles such as down jackets, parkas and bombers have been revisited by Moncler and given a contemporary look. Whether you enjoy the thrill of the ski slopes or prefer the relaxing atmosphere of après-ski, Moncler has something for everyone. gc Moncler, Piazza di Spagna 77, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0292, moncler.com

Spanish luxury fashion label Loewe, launched 170 years ago, has relocated its store on Rome’s prestigious Piazza di Spagna, moving from number 70 to number 88.

In the new boutique, beneath a beautiful ceiling of green agate, visitors can browse through the label’s large offering, including creative director Jonathan Anderson’s ready-to-wear collections and the leather accessories for which the label is famous, as well as sophisticated ceramic pieces. gc Loewe, Piazza di Spagna 88, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.com

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

Roma Via del Babuino, 44 tel. 06 3233578

PHOTO: FABIO TEMPESTINI/MANDARINO23.COM

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URBAN TRIBE Established in Bologna in 1927, Furla is known for its high-quality leather goods, which bring together the technical skills of craftsmanship and contemporary designs. For autumn/ winter 2016/17 the Italian label has channelled an urban-tribe vibe, a tribute to the culture of different cities. The Metropolis Bolero bag (€640) is decorated with perforations that form a decorative circular pattern. With its elegant details and practical size, this bag will prove itself a worthy companion on the most exciting urban adventures. gc Furla, Via Cola di Rienzo 266, 00193 Rome, +39 06 687 4505, furla.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 102

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DO YOUR DUTTI Sophisticated Spanish brand Massimo Dutti has opened a new store in Rome’s Galleria Alberto Sordi. With three floors and 931 square metres of retail space, the new boutique is the latest jewel in Massimo Dutti’s crown and its largest shop in Europe. The Galleria Alberto Sordi branch also showcases the brand’s evolved store concept – combining moody shades of marble, brass, mahogany and leather in the unveiled interior décor.

The shop offers the brand’s universally appreciated menswear and womenswear, and also presents Massimo Dutti’s personal tailoring service. sm Massimo Dutti, Galleria Alberto Sordi, Piazza Colonna, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 2783, massimodutti.com

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PLAYFUL PORTRAITS

PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES FOR TIFFANY & CO/ ERNESTO RUSCIO

Since Delfina Delettrez of the Fendi family launched her eponymous label in 2007, she has known how to enchant fine jewellery enthusiasts with her surreal, playful designs. She continues in this vein for autumn/winter 2016/17 with a collection called Portrait Rings, a joyful nod to society’s obsession with emojis. The rings are made of yellow or white gold and embellished with diamonds or rubies, as well as gemstones such as pink tourmaline and aquamarine.

Pieces such as the Kiss Me Ruby or the Portrait ring will jazz up any outfit. gc Delfina Delettrez, Via del Governo Vecchio 67, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 4105, delfinadelettrez.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 100

World-renowned jewellery firm Tiffany recently opened a new store in Rome. Situated on the prestigious Via dei Condotti, the new boutique adds a touch of sparkling modernity to this time-honoured street. Situated inside a 16th-century building, the ground floor hosts an area which showcases archived pieces from Jean Schlumberger, one of Tiffany’s most notable designers, as well as rooms displaying the brand’s watches, the Tiffany T collection and the latest creations from design director Francesca Amfitheatrof; 2016 marks the 130th anniversary of the famous Tiffany setting, so there is no better time to celebrate with the brand. sm Tiffany & Co, Via dei Condotti 55, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 3941, tiffany.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 92

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

PHOTOS (LEFT): DELETTREZ

TIME FOR TIFFANY

ROMA Via Frattina, 84/B V.le Libia, 19 Via del Tritone, 30 Via Tuscolana, 883/A Via Vittorio Veneto, 130 Piazza Enrico Fermi, 8 Via Cola di Rienzo, 191 Centro Comm.le Euroma 2 Via Appia Nuova, 63

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RUGGED WRISTWEAR This season sees Italian designer Giuliano Mazzuoli, famed for his innovative, minimalist creations, update his iconic Manometro watch, resulting in an entirely original statement timepiece. Inspired by the pressure gauge of an old air compressor, the Manometro has been adapted to feature a distinctive polished cement case. The new Cemento model (€3,600) features a strap made of calf-skin from Tuscany and a deployant buckle crafted from steel, making it one of the most refined but strong-featured pieces of wristwear available this season. rp Hausmann & Co, Via del Corso 406, 00186 Rome, +39 06 689 3194, hausmann-co.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94

RED ALERT Valentino is a fashion label with a reputation for high-end excellence, so you’d expect nothing less than pure luxury of Red Valentino’s new concept store – and that is exactly what you will find.

The boutique on elegant Via del Babuino was meticulously designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, joint creative directors of the brand until the former’s departure in June 2016. The store is a brilliant reflection of the brand’s evolution, featuring geometric shapes within a delicate pastel and gold interior. dw Red Valentino, Via del Babuino 61, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 1906, redvalentino.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

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HIGH SOCIETY Behind Society Limonta lies the idea of home couture. Established in 2000, the company produces all the textiles you might need for your home, including bed linen, tablecloths and towel sets, and prides itself on its Made in Italy merchandise mark.

Society Limonta uses high-quality fabrics in a range of prints and colours, and exciting combinations including linen, cotton and jacquard; its mix-and-match philosophy allows you to personalise your home. The minimal interior of the Rome store, formerly a tapestry manufacturing company, features marble floors and oak shelves, and is the perfect environment to explore Society Limonta’s world. gc Society Limonta, Piazza di Pasquino 4, 00186 Rome, +39 06 683 2480, societylimonta.com

STEPPING OUT Men’s footwear often errs on the plain side. This season, two Italian brands change that: artistic Missoni has teamed up with acclaimed footwear manufacturer Diemme on a range of stand-out hiking boots in brown, off-white, tomato and navy blue Tuscan suede and leather. The boots’ traditional style is enhanced by Missoni’s signature patterned knit on the laces and ankle panels. Taking Diemme’s classic Roccia Vet style into the future, this is a boot that is both practical and eye-catching for autumn/winter 2016/17. sm Missoni, Piazza di Spagna 78, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 2555, missoni.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

globalblue.com

In a city as iconic as Rome, the classic sights tend to steal the limelight. Hannah Lewis explores some of the city’s lesser-known gems, from ancient relics to the eateries locals love

PHOTO: RANDY OHC CC BY 2.0

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T

he British novelist George Eliot once described Rome as ‘the city of visible history’. It’s hard to argue with this.

The city of the past is imprinted on the city of today – a past that has made Rome so iconic that even those who have never visited still feel 106 116

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they know its character and what it has to offer.

But, while Rome’s major landmarks are some of the most impressive in the world, if you stray a little from the beaten track, you’ll discover another side to the Eternal City: one that’s a little less known, but equally appealing.

Above: the Vatican gardens

PHOTO: SOPRINTENDENZA ARCHEOLOGICA DI ROMA

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Don’t think that the obvious choices are the only ones when it comes to Roman attractions; and you might also want to avoid the crowds While there is no escaping the pull of Rome’s best-known sights, there is something to be said for approaching these from a different angle.

Did you know, for example, that the Vatican gardens are open to the public? You’ll need to book in advance; well worth it to experience some of the most beautiful green spaces in the country. If the Colosseum is top of your list, book an after-dark tour, which quite literally shows the enormous space in a different light.

And if Saint Peter’s Basilica charms you, head to the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta and take a look through the keyhole in the priory’s main door. A poorly kept secret, you’ll likely have to queue for this one, but you’ll be rewarded by a stunning view of the basilica, perfectly framed by the form of a hedge-lined avenue. It’s really quite something.

Above (from top): the Colosseum at night; the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta

PHOTO: GENGISH SKAN CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE

By

Claire

Campbell

HIGH Shop • Via Frattina 31/32 Roma T 06 6792667

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MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

PHOTO: JEAN-PIERRE DALBÉRA CC BY 2.0

Don’t think that the obvious choices are the only ones when it comes to ancient Roman attractions. Monte Testaccio may not have the glamour of the Pantheon but it is a unique ancient site: an artificial mound formed from fragments of ancient amphorae (jars), which date from as early as AD 140, possibly even earlier. At its base, a number of bars and restaurants have been built into the mound.

We recommend Flavio al Velavevodetto, where glass panels reveal the interior of the hill, and Checchino dal 1887, where you can visit the wine cellar, its walls made up of these ancient pots.

Ostia Antica is another often overlooked site. Half an hour outside Rome, the port of the ancient city once sat at the mouth of the river Tiber, and, though it no longer meets the sea, the old harbour is notable for the impressive preservation of its structures, as well as beautiful frescoes and mosaics. Or why not discover Appia Antica, one of the oldest paved roads in history? While we wouldn’t recommend walking its length, you can see its beginnings at the Baths of Caracalla.

Above (from top): Flavio al Velavevodetto restaurant; wine cellar in Checchino dal 1887; mosaics in Ostia Antica

VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 173 ROMA

CANNAREGIO, 5787 VENEZIA

PHOTO: © MUSACCHIO&IANNIELLO/COURTESY FONDAZIONE MAXXI

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PHOTO: SIMONE CECCHETTI/COURTESY FONDAZIONE MAXXI

ALTERNATIVE ARTEFACTS Rome’s museums are understandably one of its biggest attractions, and if crowds aren’t your thing there are plenty of options. The Centrale Montemartini provides an alternative for those enamoured with ancient Roman sculpture.

The museum is sited in a former power station and this juxtaposition of ancient and modern gives a new perspective on this most classic of mediums. Not that Rome is home to classical art alone. The Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, popularly known as Maxxi, is Italy’s first national museum dedicated to contemporary art. Its building, designed by celebrated architect Zaha Hadid, is as striking as the works it houses.

Above (from top): 0pening of the Superstudio 50 exhibition at Maxxi; the museum’s architect Zaha Hadid

match made in denim

Diesel Flagship Store Rome piazza di Spagna, 18 - angolo vicolo del Bottino Diesel Store Rome via del Corso, 118 Diesel Corner Rome c/o Coin Excelsior via Cola di Rienzo, 173

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LOCAL TASTES

PHOTO: ANDREA DI LORENZO

The other pull of Rome is, of course, the food.

From pizza to pasta, gelato to tiramisù, Italian food is loved the world over, and where better to sample it than the nation’s capital?

From morning to night, the city is bursting with places to eat, drink and be merry, and the way to know the ones to choose is to do as the locals do. Start your day with a frothy coffee from Castroni on Via Cola di Rienzo. Get

your cappuccino fix in now, as Romans never drink milky coffee after 11am. For an informal foodie fix, try Necci dal 1924, a stylish, welcoming bar serving local, mostly organic ingredients. Necci is located in the trendy Pigneto neighbourhood so you’ll be dining among Rome’s cool crowd.

For a post-lunch treat, Linari on Via Nicola Zabaglia is deservedly popular with Romans; the homemade cakes and pastries on offer here never disappoint.

Above: cappuccino at Necci dal 1924

PHOTO: ANDREA DI LORENZO

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WINING AND DINING For something more formal, Armando al Pantheon is a modern trattoria embracing ancient foods. Serving ‘cucina povera’, which translates into English as ‘food of the poor’, the restaurant is part of the same movement that has seen bone marrow and offal re-emerge on menus across Europe. Revisiting neglected ingredients that are abundant and readily available, the chefs present some of the most delicious dishes in Rome. This is where the local foodies are eating. Though when it comes to desserts, everyone knows the best tiramisù in Rome is found on Via della Croce at Pompi.

The Romans love wine, and the selection at Il Goccetto on Via dei Banchi Vecchi is demonstrably good enough to queue for.

If you’re in the vicinity of the Colosseum, Enoteca Provincia Romana is equally loved by locals. Italians make fine beer too, and Antica Birreria Peroni serves the best local brews.

However, with its view over the bustling Trastevere district, itself well worth a visit, Il Baretto is our bar of choice in Rome. Il Baretto serves fine wines, cold beers and cocktails alongside bar snacks and light bites; this friendly, atmospheric bar really comes alive after hours, and is the perfect place to end a day of exploration

Above (clockwise from top left): tiramisù classico as served at Pompi; a dessert from the menu at Necci dal 1924; Il Baretto bar

boggi.com

Roma | | | |

Via del Babuino 20 | Tel. +39 06 326.512.56 Via Cola di Rienzo 266 | Tel. +39 06 688.079.02 Via del Corso c/o Gall. A. Sordi 27/28 | Tel. +39 06 692.020.79 Via Appia Nuova 168/170 | Tel. +39 06 772.044.66

MADE IN

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

LOOK FOR THE BUFFALO

Il Bisonte’s bufalo logo is as distinctive as the label’s beautifully crafted, original leather goods.

Founder Wanny Di Filippo tells Sally McIlhone the story behind this Italian brand’s success

PHOTO: COURTSEY OF IL BISONTE

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I

f you come to Italy to shop, you’ll certainly be looking to invest in something sourced and designed in the country; to purchase a true piece of luxury that bears the Made In Italy merchandise mark. And there’s no better brand to seek out on your trip than Il Bisonte.

Not only does the company produce stunning leather bags, purses and smaller items in the heart of Tuscany, it also has a great story behind it and a charismatic fgurehead in the form of founder Wanny Di Filippo. Il Bisonte’s handbags are trend-inspired yet original, 108 118

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making them a must for those looking to invest in a product that they won’t see on the arm of every other style fan in their home city.

‘I’ve always loved to make things with my hands,’ says Wanny Di Filippo. ‘When I was 20 I got together with a group of young people from all over Europe. They taught me how to make small objects and that’s where I got the idea of working leather.’ It was in Florence that Di Filippo took the skills he had learned and turned them into a business. ‘I happened to land in Florence for a series of personal Previous page: leathercrafting in Il Bisonte’s atelier Above: the brand’s Rome storefront

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reasons, then I got involved in this adventure, starting to make the frst bags by hand in 1969 in a small shop in the heart of Florence, just a short walk from where our main shop stands today.’ Di Filippo joined forces with another young Florentine, Luciano Masini, to develop the business.

‘When I began, I didn’t have the faintest idea what would happen to me or my ideas,’ he recalls. ‘I started in a small basement on Via del Parione – which still exists today, the frst historic Il Bisonte shop – together with a boy who was even younger than me, Luciano, who

still works with the company. I can only say I’m happy I made one of my dreams come true.’

Part of keeping the Il Bisonte dream alive is maintaining positive collaborative relationships, something the brand has honed to a fne art. ‘We have been working for 45 years with the same suppliers, both for leather and fttings, and they are nearly all Tuscan.

Mutual respect has always kept us together professionally,’ Di Filippo explains. ‘It takes hard work to create solid and lasting things, whether a handmade bag or a link between people. This is our secret.’

Above: the colourful interior of the Florence store features the brand’s well-known bison motif

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

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In striving to create mutually benefcial relationships, Il Bisonte has stayed true to the people and principles it has worked with for 45 years. The same can be said of its aesthetic, which has endured throughout its history.

‘This is why people like Il Bisonte; despite everything, it has never changed,’ explains Di Filippo. ‘Underlying every creation, there is faithfulness to the lines and historical materials identifying the brand.’

The bufalo motif has also prevailed throughout Il Bisonte’s history. ‘I have always been fascinated by bufaloes, huge beasts

which are at the same time fragile, defenceless, genuine. I fell in love with them, and started making a collection of various items depicting bufaloes,’ says Di Filippo.

The logo has become a mark of quality for the brand, a stamp that those in the know can instantly recognise as distinguishing an Il Bisonte product.

Though the brand’s home is Florence, it also has signifcant connections to Rome, with two stores in the city. ‘Everybody loves Rome and I love it too,’ says Di Filippo.

‘Rome is youthful, it’s big and it’s full of

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

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life.’ Whether you visit Il Bisonte’s Rome or Florence stores, you can be sure of fnding a stunning selection of bags from the autumn/ winter 2016/17 collection, from traditional styles to unusual shapes in cognac-coloured leather; from vast black tote bags for shopping to mini bucket styles for romantic dinners; and from document holders for ofce presentations to buckled satchels for city exploration and

When it comes to plans for the future, Il Bisonte will stick to its winning formula

Above (from left): Il Bisonte founder Wanny Di Filippo; a selection of Il Bisonte bags from the autumn/winter 2016/17 collection

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

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weekend bags that combine leather and tweed.

‘Next to our traditional cowhide, we have placed diferent, special materials like the striped fabric used for deckchairs,’ says Di Filippo. ‘We like to investigate and experiment, and to add to our material par excellence: vegetable-tanned cowhide, which identifes us around the world.’

When it comes to plans for the future,

Il Bisonte will be sticking with its winning formula. ‘We want to go on being what we are, with the same sincerity with which we have been working the last 45 years,’ says the label’s founder. ‘Our product quality will continue to be the core of our business for the next 45 years. I guarantee that.’

And a guarantee from Wanny Di Filippo is one you can trust

SCENT FROM ITALY

Paola Bottai, a leading Rome perfume maker, works with classic Italian-grown ingredients in her distinctive creations. She tells Josh Sims about her longtime love of scent and why she thinks Italian perfumes are the fragrances of the future

Right: Paola Bottai’s fragrance for the Mini Gentleman range

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P

aola Bottai likes to think of her training in fragrance design as lifelong. ‘I always had a passion for scent in general. When I was growing up, whether I smelled something “disgusting” or really appealing would have a big impact on my mood,’ she says. ‘Scents are a deep source of our memories too, which is both scary and fascinating.’

It is only fve years ago that the Romebased perfumer graduated from her training in fragrance design – in Grasse, southern France, perfume’s spiritual home. She has already worked with diverse names such as the Carthusia perfume label, car company Mini, and Bullfrog, a tiny but widely acclaimed Milanese barber shop. Other projects include a ‘super-cool collaboration’ with the Cantina Tramin wine company that brought together the worlds of wine and perfumes.

‘I never send out a CV or anything,’ says this strongly independent designer. ‘Clients have come to me because they have smelled one of my fragrances. That’s how it should be.’

Paola Bottai has established a reputation for the simplicity of her creations, using classic ingredients in an unfussy, modern way

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Above (from top): Paola Bottai created the scent for Bullfrog’s Agnostico All-In-One Balm; the perfumer in her studio

Although many fragrances have been launched with Bottai’s name proudly attached to the project, she has yet to create her own signature fragrance, though one is in the distant pipeline. This is in part due to some disillusionment about the current marketingled state of the industry – something she knows about, having originally studied communications before working in the music business for some years – and the hype around fragrances, not least the emphasis on fashionability. ‘It may be fashionable, but it may also smell disgusting on you. Why would you wear that just because it’s “fashionable”?’ she laughs. ‘There’s also been this big wave of niche perfumers over recent years, often brands that last no more than six months. In fact, there are so many niche fragrances now, you can’t call them niche. And niche just tends to mean “expensive”. Then you get fragrances launching with mysterious ingredients like “blue rose”.

What is blue rose?’

Buyers of a Bottai fragrance are unlikely to fnd anything so pretentious. The perfumer has established a reputation for the simplicity of her creations, using classic ingredients – vetiver, amber, patchouli, bergamot – in an unfussy, modern way. You will not fnd any self-consciously alternative ingredients in her fragrances. ‘I take a less-is-more approach,’ she says. ‘When you smell a fragrance I design, you can smell what has gone into it. I don’t want to scare anyone with what they might fnd in a composition.’

Bottai is particularly acclaimed for her fragrances for men. ‘It’s a more challenging market to work in because men are so much more faithful to the fragrance they already wear,’ she says. ‘That said, I think the distinction often made between a “masculine” fragrance and a “feminine” one is misleading. There are just good fragrances and not-so-good ones. Rose is classically feminine, even if its symbolism of love and passion is not the same all over the world, but I like to work with contrasts. That’s why I think rose on a man can be just great.’

Perhaps above all one might describe a Bottai fragrance as distinctly Italian. Her atelier is in the capital and she grew up in the Parioli neighbourhood. Her bottling, labelling and Above (from top): essential oils used in Paola Bottai’s fragrances; rose is a classic perfume ingredient

PHOTO: ANNE DAVIS 773 CC BY-NC 2.0

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ilgufo.it

ROMA – VIA DEL BABUINO, 65

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PHOTO: PUBLIC DOMAIN

Paola Bottai focuses on perfume ingredients native to the Italian countryside; she is keen to be part of an international reappraisal of the Italian fragrance business

packaging are made in Italy; unusually, when she prepares samples for clients, they come complete with her own designs for these too.

Where possible, she uses ingredients native to the Italian countryside. In fact, she is keen to be part of an international reappraisal of the Italian fragrance business.

‘Obviously Italy has a huge fashion economy, and the Made in Italy brand is so important in many ways. But people tend to think of France frst when they think of fragrances,’ she says. ‘Italy has a great history in making fragrances, which anyone really into fragrances will know; in Florence, for example, or in Venice, given that it was crucial to the trade of rare ingredients from the east to the west. Catherine de Medici efectively made Grasse as important to fragrance as it is.’ (The

Italian noblewoman, who became Queen of France, loved scented gloves and is said to have popularised the town’s perfume after she was given a pair of made in Grasse.)

Bottai’s early experience of working for one of the corporate giants in the fragrance industry quickly convinced her that this path was not for her, despite the opportunity it ofered to make a name for herself. She prefers the relative anonymity of being the creative behind the scenes. But, like Italian fragrances, she is set to be better known in years to come.

‘I love fragrance,’ she says, ‘and not just the alcohol-based kind you wear. I like to play with fragrance in all of its forms – in face creams and body washes, for the home, even for the car.

Fragrance has a whole world yet to really be developed’

Above (left to right): Catherine de Medici, the Italian-born queen of France who helped popularise perfume from Grasse, where Paola Bottai trained; the perfumer at work in her studio

S H O P | 77

TOP 3...PERFUMERS

Original Toiletries ‘This is one of the companies I have worked with. They offer lots of historical brands for men’s grooming and a small selection for women’ Original Toiletries, Viale dei Colli Portuensi 530, 00151 Rome, +39 06 6579 5281, originaltoiletries.com Campomarzio70 ‘A truly niche perfumery offering luxurious brands in the centre of Rome, a few steps from the Piazza di Spagna’ Campomarzio70, Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7739, campomarzio70.it FEATURED ON PAGE 90 Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania ‘A small perfumery in the Parioli neighbourhood where my passion developed.

It’s 200 metres from my house and when I was small I used to go there to do my homework’ Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania, Via Luigi Luciani 38, 00197 Rome, +39 06 321 8386

PHOTO: © CARLO TOSTI PHOTO

Paola Bottai shares some of her favourite fragrance boutiques in Rome with SHOP

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TABLE TALK

Avoid Rome’s tourist-trap restaurants and discover the city’s lighter, healthier fare. Isabella Redmond Styles recommends some modern, fresh and vibrant options

It’s all too easy to come to Rome and feel disappointed with the food served in many of the restaurants close to key attractions.

However, Rome enjoys an international reputation for its fantastic fresh ingredients and local cuisine, and many of the city’s restaurants are superbly skilled in showcasing these.

It would be remiss to visit the city and not tuck into local delicacies like pizza bianca, spaghetti alla carbonara or spaghetti cacio e pepe.

Offal is another traditional Roman favourite, globalblue.com

including the widely available coda alla vaccinara, an oxtail stew simmered with herbs, spices and vegetables.

The city also caters well to the modern palate. In addition to internationally inspired eateries, organic and vegetable-based dining is also enjoying increasing popularity. It’s easier than ever before to find a restaurant that will whip up a cold-pressed juice or a quinoa salad – good news for those who have had one too many helpings of spaghetti alla carbonara.

PHOTO: OBERTO GILI

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L’A U T R E D A M E L’Autre Dame in the spectacular Palazzo Dama offers diners a taste of Roman grandeur as well as a lavish feast – or a healthy one, if they prefer. Palazzo Dama was home to the noble Malaspina family for over 100 years. The mansion has recently reopened as an ultrastylish hotel, restaurant and bar. Architect Antonio Girardi was responsible for the

renovation and the result is magnificent. If you can tear your eyes away from the white and gold panelled walls, imposing potted palm trees and magnificent chandeliers in L’Autre Dame restaurant, you can enjoy freshly made smoothies, juices and raw dishes, as well as internationally inspired plates.

L’Autre Dame, Palazzo Dama, Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia 2, 00196 Rome, +39 06 8956 5272, palazzodama.com

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A ROM A

PHOTO: ©HOTEL PHOTOGRAPHY

There surely aren’t many better places to enjoy dinner than overlooking the Colosseum, which makes Aroma an unmissable spot – as does the delicious food it faultlessly turns out. Aroma’s chef Giuseppe di Iorio creates food that’s worthy of such a spectacular location, using seasonal ingredients and regional delicacies.

Feast on the tasting menu, which includes standout plates of ravioli with buffalo mozzarella and Cantabrian anchovies, quail and chanterelle mushroom green lasagnette, and suckling pig served with apricot compote and fennel potatoes. It’s also worth checking out the à la carte offering, where you can find Aroma’s sublime interpretation of the classic Italian tiramisù dessert.

Aroma, Palazzo Manfredi, Via Labicana 125, 00184 Rome, +39 06 7759 1380, aromarestaurant.it

PHOTO: VL9PHOTOGRAPHY

GINGER

globalblue.com

Rome has an outstanding gastronomic history but is something of a latecomer when it comes to vegan and vegetarian cuisine. Ginger, a fashionable bistro that specialises in organic, veggie-centric dishes, opened in the city in 2012 and has been a popular haunt for the health-conscious ever since. Its motto is ‘sapore e salute’ (tasty and healthy) and the restaurant’s bright white, modern interior incorporates vibrant, decorative fruit and vegetable displays.

There’s an excellent juice bar and the Mediterranean menu caters to the breakfast, lunch and dinner crowd. Ginger is focused on organic farming; 70% of ingredients used here are from certified organic origin and 80% are plant-based or raw. Look out for the steamer basket selection, which includes dishes such as spicy organic meatballs or cod with black organic quinoa, cooked in a high-pressure steamer which allows the natural ingredients to retain their nutrients.

Ginger, Via Borgognona 43-44, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0836, ginger.roma.it

WOMEN’S BOUTIQUE VIA DEL BABUINO, 152 ROME +39 06 6788944 MEN’S BOUTIQUE VIA BORGOGNONA, 21 ROME +39 06 6787718 MONDAY - SUNDAY 10AM - 7PM

SHOP AT TESTONI.COM

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GUIDE

PHOTO: DAVID ILIFF CC-BY-SA 3.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Rome with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a luxe cashmere boutique to a trio of historic stationers. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/rome.

A Glimpse Of Rome Above: the Colosseum is one of the city’s best-known historical sights

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: MILKHA LALA

‘Prepare to discover a classic gem on every street, round every corner and in every public building when you visit Rome. The city’s artworks and architecture, gardens and monuments are sublime’ – Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor

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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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Santoni Italian shoemaker Santoni is known for beautifully made, on-trend designs.

Santoni, Piazza di Spagna 79, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2394,

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Red Valentino Explore the brand’s new concept store, which is as modern and feminine as its bestselling designs.

Red Valentino, Via del Babuino 61, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 1906, redvalentino.com

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Place Of Interest

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Delfina Delettrez The designer’s fine jewellery is not only beautiful, it also has a sense of humour.

Delfina Delettrez, Via del Governo Vecchio 67, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 4105, delfinadelettrez.com

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Il Bisonte Discover handcrafted leather goods bearing the Made In Italy merchandise mark, courtesy of Il Bisonte.

Il Bisonte, Via Borgognona 13, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6880 8097, ilbisonte.com

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90 V IT

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88

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PAGE

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PiazzaAugusto Imperatore

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MAUSOLEO DI AUGUSTO

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88 | G U I D E

TRIDENTE AREA Via del Babuino

VIA

DE

LC

OR

SO OR LC DE VIA I GR

ECI

BALDININI ● F.M. MEGNA ● ANTEPRIMA ● ASPESI ● TO

RIA

ANTONACCI ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● GIOVANNI RASPINI ● VICINI ● W. A POLLONI ●

DI L

EO N

E

VIT

CA BOC

P.41

VIA

DE

LLE

CA

RR

OZ

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Global Blue Retailer

CANALI FRATELLI ROSSETTI RED VALENTINO P.48 HAUSMANN & CO IL GUFO MISS GRANT LES COPAINS VHERNIER ARMANI JEANS

GENTE ROMA FLOS PIAZZA SEMPIONE ICEBERG MIU MIU

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

A L IB ERT PINKO KIEHL’S ERMANNO SCERVINO CHANEL ETRO CIR MATTIOLI

VIA

DI G

ES

ÙE

MA

DI S

AN

CO

MO

CHIARA BASCHIERI ● TROLLBEADS ●

V IA

DE

VIA

VIA

Piazza Di Spagna

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● BRUNO MURATORI

GERARDO SACCO ● GI A

I GR

VIT

DE

● CAMPAIOLA

CR

OC

E

VIA

DI S

AN

Piazza Di Spagna

Featured In This Issue

● E&R DANON ● VENEZIANI

● ANIMALIER E OLTRE ● CONSORTI ● MUCCI ● IL MARMORARO ● MASSONI ● IL MONDO DELL’ARTE

LA NUVOLA ● RINALDI ● EUROPEAN FINE ART ● LA PALLINA ● V IA A

● VUELLE

● COCOZZA

THE FIFTH SEASON BY SERRA ● GENTE ● MARIO OASI ● COEN ●

RIA

● MARGUTTA OTTICA

● RICHARD DI CASTRO

NUOVA ANTE PRIMA ● ECI

TO

LLA

● MARCHETTI

RIA

PROFUMERIA HB ● VIA

● BOFFI ● WISKY & CO

AREA CONTESA ●

V IA

HOGAN ●

● SERGIO NESCI

CALZOLERIA ●

● SERAPIAN ● ROBERTO COIN ● GENTE ROMA ● ● ● ● ●

● ARTEMIDE

MARGUTTA 102 ●

VIA DEL BABUINO

KITON ● DECORARTE ● U-BOAT ● MAC ● HERZEL DE BACH ● VILEBREQUIN● TIFFANY & CO. ●

V IA

VIA

VIA DEL BABUINO

DE

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

GALLERIA VITTORIA ●

A

IO R I

V IA

ALTALANA SANDRO HB PROFUMERIE DAVID MAYER NAMAN TUMI

RIN

D E ’F

GALLERIA D’ARTE BENUCCI ●

● ● ● ● ●

● DIAMANTE

● SADDLERS UNION

ARTEMIDE ●

V I A M A R G U T TA

A. TESTONI ● P.95 ROSATO ● RUCOLINE ●

L AU

A R IO

ROY ROGERS ●

● EMMA OTTO

GROSSI MAURIZIO ●

JO MALONE FABIANA FILIPPI OMAI NOW OR NEVER MAISON MARGIELA PARIS

● SANDRO FERRONE ● CARLUCCI

● LELLI

BONUCCELI ●

V IA M

UNO DE 50 ● MOSCHINO ● LEO PIZZO ●

LLA

TI

● ● ● ●

ONT ANE

GOFFI CARBONI ● V IA

MALÌPARMI ●

LA F

EI M O N

FABRIANO ● MAJE ● PETIT BATEAU ●

DEL

IN ITÀ D

P.99

V IA

T TA

HERVÉ LÉGER DODO FREDERIC MALLE COMPAGNIA ITALIANA VOGUE SHOP BARRILÀ BOUTIQUE TORY BURCH BRIONI

ELL A TR

A

VIA M A RGU

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

V IA L E D

R IN

100% CAPRI DE GRISOGONO PALAZZO FABI BOGGI CHOPARD

GIOVANNI RASPINI ●

L AU

PUNTO PELLE ● RIENZI ● STONE ISLAND ●

● ● ● ● ●

FRATELLI PETOCCHI ●

GENTE ROMA ●

VIA DEL BABUINO

OTTICA SPIEZIA ●

DSQUARED 2 ●

VIA

VIA DEL BABUINO

SO

Via Margutta

● PALAZZO MARGUTTA ● FLAIR ● OTTO 28 ● MONIES L IB E

SE

BA

RT

ST

IAN

EL L

O

90 | G U I D E

Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di Leone

VIA BEL SIA NA

TI

● VERSA CE ● DIESE L

● FURLA

CAMPER ● DIOR ● SEPHORA ● K-WAY ● SERMONETA ●

A

GO R

Piazza Mignanelli

IN

GRE

● VALENTINO

IST

V IA

AS

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE

VI

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE-MUSEUM

● ACQUA DI PARMA P.40 ● IWC ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● NESPRESSO

IA N

A

● BRUNO CALO ● CROMIA P.91 ● PIER CARANTI

VIA F RATT INA VIA FRAT TIN A

Via dei Due Macelli O BARBARA GREGORI ● UIN AB MARIO LUCA LB DE GIUSTI ● VIA I PINCO PALLINO ● NIA ●

OPAGAN DA

VIA DI PR

A

LI VI A DI

IA N

● OTTICA BILECI

GOR

CEL

● JACKSON

CA PO LE

CA SE

VIA

DUE

IO RI

● PINKO ● PELLETTERIA FLACCO ● EDISON VICTORY ● ● RALPH I-D ● ● VICTORY ROSA FISH ● ● KAMINSKY ● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI BATA ●

DEI

IO DE ’F

MA

CEL

LI

Non-Global Blue Retailer

MA

VI A M AR

LEO NE

● UMBERTO VISGA ANTIQUARIO ● NIA ● LAURA ZOFFOLI

VIA BOC CA DI

● CAMPOMARZIO70 P.77 ● FLEUR TEMPORARY

VI A BELSIANA

● LUNARIA ● NECK & NECK ● SCAPA OF SCOTLAND ● MORO & OGNISSANTI ● FALIERO SARTI DR.VRANJES ● FIRENZE ● SPADARELLA

VIA DELLA CROCE

LA SORGENTE ●

GR E

DUE

VIA VITTORIA

PAUL & SHARK ●

V IA

D EI

ORTIGIA ● THE VERDE ● GISCI ● SAMSONITE ● BERTOLETTI ● V.VITTORIA ● DE CARLIS ● ROBERTO COIN ● ROBERTO BIAGINI ●

JODIEL ● TIFERET ● ● V. VITTORIA ● GREGG ● BALI CLICKS ● LES NEREIDES ● IL BACO DA SETA ● FABRICATORE ● ALFONSI GIOIELLI

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA VITTORIA

● CHIURATO MICHELE MANDARINA DUCK ● ● EDITH B METTIMI GIÙ ● ● HOSS INTROPIA ILLY SHOP ● ● PINEIDER P.99 59/A ● LEICA STORE ● METTIMI GIU' ● ● TAMMARO CATELLO D'AURIA ●

VIA

VIA DEI GRECI

Global Blue Retailer

LL A TRINI

Piazza Di Spagna

DI CORI ● BLUMARINE GENNY ● ROSSATI EMPORIO SAN FIRENZE LA BOTTEGA DELL’ARGENTO ALEXANDER ● CESARE PACIOTTI

Via Vittoria

TÀ D E I M O N

WP STORE ●

FRETTE ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

● ● ● ● ●

ESCADA ●

VIA BOCCA DI L EONE

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● TINA ● MARNI ● BARBA ● APM MONACO ●

E B A S T I A N E L LO

CHANEL ● LONGCHAMP ● P.122 SANTONI ● P.49 MISSONI ● P.42 MONCLER ●

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA BORGOGNONA

LORIBLU ●

● CHRISTOFLE

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

VIA DI SA N S

O

LA PERLA ●

DI CASTRO ●

CE

● CARNEVALI PHILIPPE PLEIN ● AMINA ● RUBINACCI PURA LOPEZ ● DOLCE & ● CORRADINI GABBANA ● JAEGER● GIORGIA R LECOULTRE ● EFRATI ● ● BLU GIRL P.42 LOEWE ● EMILIO PUCCI ●

UIN

CA RR OZ ZE

VIA DEL LA CRO

MENICHINI ●

VIA DE LLE

● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO

BAB

FAY ● BERNARD DELETTREZ ● SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ● ALBERT MOLAYEM ●

● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING ● ANITA ROMANI

DEL

CE

VIA ALI BER T

VIA

VIA DEL LA CRO

VIA BOCCA DI L EO N E

VIA BEL SIA NA

VIA VIT TO RIA

VIALE DE

VIA VIT TO RIA

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 91

CROMIA Founded in Le Marche, an Italian region renowned for its leather production, Cromia proudly upholds the area’s reputation for fine leather accessories. The brand continues this longstanding tradition while exploring and pioneering innovative techniques to create bold, standout accessories. Choose among totes, shoulder bags, cross-body bags and clutches in an arresting array of colours, textures and silhouettes.

Cromia, Piazza di Spagna 42A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 8402, cromia.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

A

ROZ ZE

● GREMESE

● CHOSES

● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

LAURA BIAGIOTTI ●

● BL GIOIELLI

TI

S E B A S T I A N E L LO VIA DI SA N CE

● HOUSE OF LEATHER ● C.U.C.I.N.A. ● GOMEZ ORTEGA GENOVESE ● WOLFORD ● EMANUEL ZOO ● MARTINO MIDALI

● GIOIELLI DI COCO’ V I A DEL LE CAR

VIA DEL LA CRO

TA D E L M O N

● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

FIORENTINO ●

’FI OR I

VI A BE LS IA N

● COSE TIZIANA ● MODIANO ● FABRIS

● ZOPPIA

CE

VI A MA RI O DE

O

● LUIGI BORRELLI NIA OUTLET ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

VIA DE L CO RS

● DRUMOHR

VIA DEL LA CRO

CASTIELLO ● BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ●

● LA PIE VOLEUSE

● CORNER ● JAJA CAMICERIA ● VERTECCHI ● MONTBLANC

LL A TRINI

L'ANELLERIA ●

VIA ALI B ERT

● LA MERCERIA ● LOPEZ WATCHES

VIALE DE

CORNER ●

VI A B EL SIA N

V. VITTORIA GIOIELLI ●

A

Via Belsiana, Via Mario de’ Fiori & Via del Gambero

Piazza Di Spagna

● MASTROLEO ● TRONCONE

VIA CO N D OT TI

I

VIA

VIA CO N DO TT

A

VI A BE LS IA NA

IA N

O

GOR

IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●

● KIDS AROUND

MA

RO

VIA FRAT TINA

DA

MADE IN ITALY ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

OPAG AN

WATCH HOUSE ●

VIA DELLA VITE

VI A DI PR

VI A D E L G A

MBE

LI

Global Blue Retailer

CEL

VIA F R AT TINA

● LA CORONA LUSH ● OUTFITFABI ● ● MERCANTE DI FIORI BALLERINETTE ● ● VANITA VIA DEL GAMBERO 20● ● I AM PITRAN ● ● TO LU VALAMBERT ● ● BOUTIQUE CENTRAL FRANCESCHINI ●

IL FIOCCO ● MILLERIGHE ●

Piazza Mignanelli

DUE

VIA DE L CO RS

GRE

● DOMUS CALZATURE

VIA BORGOGNONA

D EI

RUCOLINE ● HAVAIANAS ●

BADURA ●

VIA

SPOSE AIMEE ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

SAVOY ●

’FI OR I

MALO ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

P.97

VI A MA RI O DE

PICCO GIOIELLI ● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● NIKI NIKA ●

92 | G U I D E

Via Condotti, Via Frattina & Via della Croce

MALLONI ●

XANDRINE ● MODA UOMO ●

IORI

POMPI ●

VIA MAR IO DE’F

FIORENTINO ● BOTTEGA QUATTRO ● OTTICA CALÒ ● VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

SPIMAR ●

LOVE LIFE ● VASARI ● LALA ● PER LEI ●

A

VERTECCHI ●

V IA BEL SIA N

STOP HERE ● HARRISON ● FLORENCE OF MOON ● CAMICISSIMA ● LIOR ● TWINS ● NUNY ● BOTTOM DOWN ● THIERRY RABOTIN ●

● SCOOTERPLUS PRETTY ● BALLERINAS ● CARTHUSIA ● CANETTA ● CAESAR

MONCLER ● P.26 PRADA ● PRADA UOMO ● CARTIER ●

DAMIANI ● FALCONERI ● IORI

GIORGIO ARMANI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● MONTBLANC ● ELEUTERI ● JIMMY CHOO ● HERMÈS ●

VIA MAR IO DE’F

● FIORENTINO

●B ● PARAGON

Pia zz a Di Sp ag na

● DIOR

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA

DEI

DUE

MA

CEL

LI

● GALASSIA ● BALDININI TREND ROBERTO ● BOTTICELLI ● CAMPANILE ● MARTINI ● MAX MARA ● GRACE K ● HIGH ● FITFLOP ● ARMANI JUNIOR ● PENNY BLACK ● FALCONERI ● OPTISSIMO ● ZIL ● TRU TRUSSARDI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● MORESCHI ● FREDDY

● SWAROVSKI PIQUARDO ● ● ADORE VIVIANTI ● ● GEOX ● JECKERSON UNO DE 50 ● ● NERO GIARDINI AVC BY ADRIANA ● BRIGHENTI CAMPANILE ● ● ELENA MIRÒ BOSS STORE ● ● DOPPELGANGER ● UNO DE 50 ELISABETTA ● MOLESKINE FRANCHI BY CELINE B ● PROFUMERIA CASTELLI ● ● ATOS LOMBARDINI IORI

LIVIANA CONTI ●

PERSONA ● FORNARI E FORNARI ● MARELLA ● ANDREA FABIANI ●

GALLO ● FAUSTO SANTINI ● CESARE PACIOTTI ●

GENTE ROMA ● WOLFORD ● L'OCCITANE ● ACQUA ● SWAROVSKI DELL'ELBA● PANDORA ● DANIELLE ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

● OMEGA

● MICHAEL KO RS P.38

● CELINE ● MARTINI ALVIERO ● BRIONI NOMINATION ● ● CASTELLI ASH ● ● SWATCH PURE ● ● LORO PIANA BRANDY ● STUART & MELVILLE ● WEITZMAN MICARELLI ● ● HAUSMANN & CO EMANUELA FEDERICO CARUSO CAPRI ● ● BUCCELLATI CHOPIN ● ● ORO GOLD ● ALBERTA FERRETTI PINKO ● ● MIU MIU FABIO D ● GUESS ● VIA BEL SIA NA

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

● MAX MARA

LOUIS ● VUITTON VAN CLEEF ● & ARPELS

VIA MAR IO DE’F

● ANGELETTI

● BULGARI

● GUCCI

CHURCH’S ● TIFFANY & CO ● VIA B E LSI ANA

FRANCESCO ROGANI ● MAX & CO ● VILEBREQUIN ●

TOD’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

P.46

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● HARRY WINSTON ● BURBERRY ● BATTISTONI ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

● LA GARDENIA ● VENCHI CUOIERIA ● FIORENTINA ● ANDREUCCI

VIA BEL SIA NA

● COSE PATRIZIA ● MANNOIA ● ABITART

O

● FLIRT ● CLIO

VIA DE L CO RS

● CASTELLI ● REBECCA ● MANILA GRACE ● OTTICA EFRATI ● CALZEDONIA ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● KIEHL’S ● GENTE ROMA ● PATRIZIA ● RUBY COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS ● EL GANSO ● LUISA VENIER ● POLO SPORT

O

IL BISONTE ● RENÉ CAOVILLA ● BALENCIAGA ●

GUCCI ●

LORENZO CARMIGNANI ● SPORTMAX ● STELLA MCCARTNEY ● FRATELLI P.96 ROSSETTI ● MARINA RINALDI ●

ALCOZER ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TIE SHOP ●

PEUTEREY ● NIKI NIKA ●

VI A BEL SIA NA

LADURÉ E ●

COLOMBO ● HERNO ● TARTUFI & FRIENDS ●

VIA MA RIO DE’

FIO RI

MARTINO MIDALI ●

FRAGIACOMO ● I CINQUE ●

DEHA ● QUETZALCOATL CHOCOLATIER ●

LARA ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

GOCCO ●

A

DARIO VIS ●

V IA BE L SIA N

VIA MA RIO DE’

FIO RI

● A. TESTONI ● MONNA LISA ROBERTO ● CAVALLI ● PIERO GUIDI

● IRO ● BLUMARINE ● LES COPAINS

OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA ● NOVELLA

● MARISA PADOVAN ● LA PEONIA

LA ZUCCA ● STREGATA HAUTE ● PARFUMERIE EBANOE ● AVORIO ● JU'STORE ● IL PORTONE

MARIO GALLO ● CALVO

● MALO

● COS ● & OTHER STORIES ● ZENDRINI ● ALYSI

EDDY ● MONETTI

BRUNELLO ● CUCINELLI

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA BORGOGNONA

Piazza Mignanelli

VIA DE L CO RS

LILIA LEONI ● GIOCATTOLI ●

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

Via Borgognona

Via delle Carrozze

VIA FRAT TINA

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA FRATTIN A VI A F R ATT INA

VIA CO ND OT TI

CE

VIA DEL L A CRO

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE VIA DE LL E CA

VIA CO ND OT TI

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

94 | G U I D E

VIA DEL CORSO AREA Via del Corso (North)

Via del Corso (Central) CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

LL

NCI EO

DE

RES

A

DIXIE ● HOYA ●

DEL

L' IM P

RO

TIT E

FRETTE ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

VIA SA N CL

VIA

● ZARA

IPE

T TA

VIA VITTORIA

Piazza Colonna

VIA DELLA CROCE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

GA M BE

DI R VIA

Global Blue Retailer

LA 3 STORE NAU CHOPIN CARMENS

VI A DE L

ISHOP ●

● ● ● ●

VIA BELSIANA

Largo dei Lombardi

TIM MONDO WIND MARELLA INTIMISSIMI SHOPIE CHARLOTTE STROILI

VIT E

Featured In This Issue

Galleria Alberto Sordi

AU DI A

BOGGI ●

GAP ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA DE L LA

BE TWEEN ●

REDFORD ●

BERNABEI SIMONA L’OCCITANE DA VINCI FRANCESCHINI

● POLO RALPH LAUREN ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO ● CARPISA ● QUY ● DISNEY STORE ● GRILLI

VIA DEL L E CO NV ER

VIA DEL PA RL AM EN TO

Piazza del Parlamento

NON

P.45 MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● NANNINI CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● BRACCIALINI ● IMAGINARIUM DAMIANO ● PRESTA ● BOGGI

ADIDAS ● IC I

● ● ● ● ●

● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO A

COCCINELLE ●

TEF

INTIMISSIMI ●

V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O

ELISABETTA FRANCHI PERLA INGLOT MAMILLA SOLARIS COCCINELLE

I

● SWAROVSKI ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI

LA RINASCENTE ●

PON

VI A IN LU CI N A

● SISLEY ● VANS

N D OT T

● HOUR PASSION ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● LE GROUPE ● PIKOLINOS ● MISS SIXTY

VIA DEL CORSO

DEI

VIA DEL CORSO

NIKE ●

P.48

VIA DI GESÙ E MARIA

● LUXURY OUTLET ● CATENELLA ● ALCOTT ● PEPE JEANS ● MANILA GRACE ● KEY

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA

BERNABEI TATIÉ SUBDUED DOUBLE AGENT FOOT LOCKER PULL LOVE MARCO

VIA DEI GRECI

TERRANOVA ●

V IA C O

VI A FR AT TIN A

VODAFONE ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● GREISY ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

● KIPLING ● COVER STORE

● ● ● ● ● ●

● LIU JO

● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● PERUGINA

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA DEL CORSO

BATA ● PIAZZA ITALIA ● MAC ● KIKO ● SEPHORA ●

O

FLORENCE ●

N O VA

UIN

IO C A

FENDI ●

VIA BOR GOG

AB

N TO N

ELLA

BOTTEGA VERDE NERO GIARDINI DOMINIQUE LUSH 7 CAMICIE

● LAB SHOES

VIA DEL CORSO

DADADA ●

LLI

LB

VIA DEL CORSO

NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

CE

VIA DELLE CARROZ Z E

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● ESOTICA

DE

● ● ● ● ●

AW LAB ●

MA

● STEFANO RICCI

VI A D EL LA FON TAN

H&M ● V IA DEL ●S VA N TA G G IO RIP A RTO R ENS E IA FOSSIL ● DESIGUAL ●

TO

VIA

VIA DEL CORSO

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ● RE MISHELLE ● DA PIETRO ● DAVID HAMILTON ● GRATIE ●

V IA A

VIA

NO

H&M ●

VIA

● ALFIERI

VIA DELL ' OCA

CALZEDONIA DECCIO CARLO PARFOIS GOLDEN POINT ASOLE E BOTTONI TALLY WEIJL DIESEL GUESS

VIA BELSIANA

● BORSALINO ● ZEISS HOUSE

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA DI SAN TA MARIA IN V IA

Piazza Del Popolo

VIA DEL CORSO

GEOX ●

S H O P | 95

Via del Corso (South)

MAS ERG A V IA B

FELLINI ● VI A DI

PI E TR A

VIA DELL E M U RATT E

B U R RÒ

VATURI ● OTHERS ●

VI A D E ’

BARONE ● TIN CA

VI A MAR CO MING

I

O IM AD VI V I A D EL CA RAV ITA

CELIO ●

HETT I

RRA

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER ● STELLA ZETA

V IA D

M ILTÀ E LL' U

LEG IO RO M A

VIA DEL CO L

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

VI A DI SAN M A R CEL LO

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA L ATA

VI A SS. A P O STO LI

● LA GARDENIA ● DOPPELGANGER ● SAXON’S

VI A DE L PLE BIS CIT

VIA DEL CORSO

VICOLO D ORIA

STEFANEL ●

● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE VICOLO DEL PIO M B O

● TATIE ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● PERONI ● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

O VIA CE SA R E B AT TIS TI Piazza Venezia

Place Of Interest

PIAZZA DEI SANTISSIM I APOSTOLI

● HAMMERSMITH

SCHEGGE ●

ROSATO Rosato was founded in the Tuscan town of Arezzo, known for its goldsmiths, and the brand’s jewellery is synonymous with Italian quality and elegance. Designer Simona Rosato skilfully creates feminine pieces that are highly covetable, using gold, silver and precious stones. Her designs are intended to capture simple but meaningful moments in life and meant to be worn, collected, shared and loved.

Rosato, Via del Babuino 151, 00187 Rome, +39 06 321 4729, rosato.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88

VIC O LO S CIA

NO

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

VIA DEL CORSO

E NT

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

CHI

TIM ● DANIELLE ●

VIA DI SAN TA MA RI A IN VIA

FLORSHEIM ● ● OYSHO PINKO ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE ● ● C’ART OTTICA F. LA TRU TRUSSARDI ● ● BARBERA PIQUADRO ● ● SARTORIA ROSSI ● THE BRIDGE ● MASSIMO DUTTI

Galleria Piazza Colonna Alberto Sordi

LA FELTRINELLI ●

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI

96 | G U I D E

VIA DEL TRITONE AREA

TE R AT LE F DEL

REA ND

T 'A

AN

V I A D EL

I

● G-STAR

L A PA

● GIOIELLERIA

POL

BOX 51 ●

DI CORI ●

● STONEFLY

● IL PANTALONE

● MUJI

● SAXON'S

N ET T ER

VIA POL I

IA

Piazza Fontan a di Trevi

● MELLUSO

VIA DEL T RITO NE ● SB LEATHER SHOP

VIA

A

S

MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●

DI

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ●

RO

UNI TED COL ORS OF ● BEN ETT ON P.102

O R TA

● FASHION SHOES

VI A

D EL M

SCOTIA ●

LARGO CHIGI VI A DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

Galleria Alberto Sordi

Piazza di San Claudio

RIMOWA ●

● MEDICI

V I A D E L P OZ Z E T TO

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

N CL AUDIO

THE GALLERY ● TIGER ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ●

RES

E

● BEDETTI

LA GARDENIA ●

L’I M P

ME RC ED

Piazza di San Silvestro

● GERARD ● + VISTA ● TRIS GEMME E ● DIAMANTI

DEL

FI O RI

● CARHARTT

VIA DEL CORSO

● SETTIMIO MIELI

VIA

R IO DÈ

TECH IT EASY ● SUPERDRY ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJIRI ● NEW BALANCE ●

VI A DE L LA

ER TIT E

VIA

VIA D EI SA

● UNO PIÚ

Piazza Colonna

VIA DEL LE CO NV

VISION OPTIKA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO

Piazza del Parlamento

TIMBERLAND ●

V I A I N LU CI N A

VI TE

VI A M A

VI A DE LL A

VIA DI PRO PAGA NDA

Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite, Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone

Fratelli Rossetti has sought winter inspiration from the snowy landscapes of Doctor Zhivago, Boris Pasternak’s epic work of fiction. Featuring plenty of velvet and lavish embroidery, this season’s standout styles from the Italian shoemaker include the bestselling Brera loafer, reimagined with organza tassels and gilt detailing, as well as an ornate assortment of pumps, stacked heel slip-ons and slippers. Expect a luscious range of colours and intricate passementerie, all in keeping with Fratelli’s Rossetti’s international reputation for supreme craftsmanship.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Fratelli Rossetti, Via Borgognona 5A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 2676, fratellirossetti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 92

Metro

Featured In This Issue

PHOTO: PAOLO MARCHESI

FRATELLI ROSSETTI

S H O P | 97

GATTINON I ●

A

V IA

VI

DE

SI

V IA

L IS E

I ISP

ES

SI

LI

VIA

CC H EL

VI A Z U

V IA D

IS

I SA N

N IC O L

ILI

O

A D A TO

LE N TI

NO

TO

V IA B A R

B E R IN I

A DE LL EQ

G A LL I N A C C I O

AD

AS

VI

● PINOCCHIO

TT UA RO

● SANDRO FERRONE

● DOPPELGANGER

O DEL

VI

B AN

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI

Piazza Barberini ● VALLI

FO

A

RO

VI A R A SEL L

A

E

FO

VIA RAS ELL

AN NT

RA

CC IO

LT

L B OC CA

V I CO L

NI

VENE

BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●

A DAN JHON ●

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E SI

VI A DE

DE

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA

VIA A

● MAX & CO ● R.BAZZOCCHI

TRUNK ● & CO

● PRONOVIAS

VIA R ASE LL

CI

IN

JOELA ● E

UC

ST

LI ION

DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ●

EL ● OVS INDUSTRY

RC

BENETTON ●

ESTHER ● MISS ROBERTA ● MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

AC CLASS ●

CLARKS ● SOUVENIR SHOP ● KRUDER ● BRAND ●

EM NA

PP

T O R IO

FR A NC

A

I DU

VIA DEL TRITO NE

CA

ALTA MODA FURS ●

VI

DE I VIA

A VI

I DE

V I A V IT

VIA

CO

CR

NE

LE CAS E

MO

Z IO

A

IC A

IA N

R IF

OR

A

PU

IN

EG

VIA

LLA

ST

GR

VIA DI CAP O

Quality cashmere is a winter wardrobe staple and Malo’s beautiful knits are the ideal fit.

Founded in 1972, Malo is one of the world’s foremost cashmere brands – it uses natural fibres from Mongolia and a unique weaving method to produce super-soft, touchable cashmere. Fine, elastic strands guarantee an easy, comfortable fit and ensure the garments, which carry the Made In Italy label, a benchmark of quality, keep their shape. Visit the brand’s Rome boutique to stock up on men’s and women’s cashmere clothing and accessories.

globalblue.com

PHOTO: KATYA SHELEST

MALO

Malo, Via Belsiana 68, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1331, malo.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 91

98 | G U I D E

TAKE A WALK

LOCAL TIP

DID YOU KNOW?

Those who are feeling active should take a walk or jog along the Via dei Fori Imperiali and enjoy watching the sun come up behind the Colosseum.

Begin at Piazza Venezia and then proceed up the wonderfully straight and wide Via dei Fori Imperiali, passing the national monument to Victor Emmanuel, the first king of unified Italy, and the Roman Forum.

Bargain hunters and vintage lovers won’t mind getting up early to snap up the wide variety of clothes, posters and books available at Rome’s biggest and best flea market, which runs from 6am to 2pm every Sunday at Porta Portese.

Mercato di Porta Portese, Piazza di Porta Portese, 00153 Rome

Rome was home to the world’s first ever shopping mall.

Trajan’s Market, built by Emperor Trajan between around 107AD and 110 AD, was a multilevel complex selling groceries and other goods. This remarkably well-preserved market was designed by the architect Apollodorus of Damascus with a semi-circular facade flanked by columns that housed shops

Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

ALL

ACO

IOSSEL LIANI R-01-IO S ● ALBERTO AMIDEI ● MUSA ● VI C O LO

Antico Caffè Vitti

NC

VIA BOR GOG

●N IK

I N IK

RZ

PA

VIA

CAM

PO

VIA DE

MA

L L A LU

NO AM L DIVI LO D E

V ICO

ZIO

O ZI

AR M

DI

AR

PO

OM

M

CA

MP

CA

A

V IA

DEL

L'I M P

RES

NE

S S IO

MI

LA EL AD

VI

VIA

A

VI

NA

ALE ADD

LA M DEL

VIA

● SPADA

Featured In This Issue

VIA DEL CORSO

Café

LOUIS VUITTON ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● PASQUALE BRUNI

Global Blue Retailer

CASADEI ●

R IO

● CARSHOE

IC A

BURBERRY ●

LV

● BOTTEGA VENETA

I DE

E

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● SAINT LAURENT

F F IC

VIA DELLA M ER CE D

● BONPOINT

AUDEMARS ● PIGUET

LI U

VIT E

POMELLATO ●

I

CRUCIANI & BELLA ●

ELL

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

ERT

VIA DEL CORSO

IO

ALB

OBOR ●

● FG

Piazza del Parlamento

● PERSICO TIE SHOP ● ● CAMPO MARZIO 70 MODARI ● ● EMPRESA FOR PETS ONLY ● ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● BORSALINO ● OFFICINA SLOWEAR HERMÈS ● ● MIGLIORANZA DAVIDE CENCI ● ● STURNI D EG

VIA FRATTIN A

VI A DE L L A

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●

VIA ME TAS TAS

MONOCLE ●

V IA

NON A

A

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● CAMPO MARZIO BANCHETTI ● ● VITTORIO BAGAGLI TANCREDI ● ● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET NEGRI ● ● CAMPO MARZIO 9 PAS DE ROUGE ● ● SCOTIA CAPUA CASHMERE ● ● CHASMERITALY ● BIARRITZ 1961 CALZATURE CAMPO MARZIO ● ● PAUL TAYLOR GOLF & GOLF ● ● CENTODIECI SUPERCASA ● TEBRO ● ● ALAIN PAINE V I A D EI P R E FE T TI ● IL CAMICIAIO VI A IN LU CIN A ETIQUETA NEGRA ● OT T ● PAIC A A L BECCACECE ● CRU RLA C IA N GINTEL ● MEN I ● TO EMPRESA ● AMOUAGE ●

P.41

IO

ORE

DI P

DI SAN BI AGIO

S●

V IA D EL GAM BERO

NE

IA NA

O●

LEO

R●

EO

HER

VI A BE LS

NK L

DEL

BOU

LL

ROT

DE

FR A

V IA

R DA

BAR KS B

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA

EN TIN O BROO

VIA

CLEM VIA DEL

D OT T I

INO

V IA C O N

S H O P | 99

VIA VITTORIO VENETO AREA Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia ● CAPUANO

ZILLI ● CAVIGLIA ●

● DE SIMONE

V IA

SA R

DEG

NA VI A

A

AN

CI

LAZ

ELIZABETH ●

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA ● DE PASCALIS

● GOLD SKIN EXCELSIOR GALLERY ● ● TRUCCHI IL IA UBI ● S IC ● ARSENIO V IA GLOVES ● ● CARRY ON JUNIOR VERSACE ●

VI

OR

AD

IT T

IP

AV

OR

VI

TA P

IN

ALBERTINA ●

IO

CHE

V IA

MAR

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

IO VE NE

TO

HELENE PROFUMERIA ●

NIMA & RAY ●

V IA

ANDREW'S TIES ●

E M IL IA

RINALDI ●

V IA

BON

CO M

PA G

NI

V IA AU R OR A

CASATO GIOIELLI ● V IA

LU D

TOP 3... STATIONERS Cartoleria Pantheon Just steps from the Pantheon, this stationer is over 100 years old and offers good quality leather notebooks and photo albums as well as high-grade paper and pens.

Cartoleria Pantheon, Via della Rotonda 15, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 5313, pantheon-roma.com

O V IS

I

Pineider The first Pineider store opened in 1774 and the brand still maintains painstaking artisanal techniques to produce its hand-engraved paper.

Pineider, Via dei Due Macelli 68, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 5884, pineider.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 90

Fabriano Fabriano can trace its impressive history back to the 13th century. The company is originally from the Marche town of the same name, historically known for its paper-making artisans, and Fabriano is committed to upholding the standards of traditional craftsmanship.

Fabriano, Via del Babuino 173, 00186 Rome, +39 06 3260 0361, fabrianoboutique.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 88

globalblue.com

PHOTO: ALESSIO MACRÌ

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 100

100 | G U I D E

PANTHEON & NAVONA AREA Via del Governo Vecchio ●A

A

LEX

L

N SA IE CH

A LL DE

A VI

NI

RCU R

IO DI

PA

RI

ON

E

A

● CAMPOMARZIO70

DE

DE

A

VI

I

LL

SA VE

LO

CC VE

O

OR

HI

TT

CO

O

VI

VI

RN

LT

VE

EA TR

GO

INA R IO

IO

EM

AN

● A. CENCI ● CASALI ● GIOREN MENTA ● GLOVES ● KLK STEREO ● SOUND

O

UE

● MI & CHI

VIA D EL SEM

RS

PANTHEON

● PANTHEON 70

LE

II

A V IA DE L L A MIN ERV

VIA D. ROTONDA

● REPLAY

LE ARTIGIANE DI ROMA ● CARTOLERIA P.99 PANTHEON ●

Piazza Della Rotonda

OP

L

● OTTICA VERGERIO

SAL ITA DE’C RES CEN ZI ● D RIENZO

Y A L E T T I VI ● AR T VRA RA ● l C 'E SO O L S C. N IC O T ●W CE RI 6 AT Y P.4 BE OLB ● K Z A E ● R R SO NA T A FI E T VI E LD E L D ● I●A AL RI ID E ● M ELL HIO E ● Y ● I C C O C I 3 ET GI VE I- N O 9 E ● CI O B I C N .G SO N V ● R RIA CI . DA LE ● VE E L NC E L R A ● GO CA LT I C A ● A A LL L’ T S S DE & LOT N E LO N A FI USI CO VI LU B C GI TE A R ST

ACE

FA OR

LI

EG

V. D

I

E

LG

CC H

DE

E L L E VA

LO

O LO D

CO

● ME

O

A

S T IN

SS

A V. D . P

VI

HI

VI

● CAMPER

● STILOFETTI

RN

CO

THE PLACE ● CLARKS ● IL PAPIRO ● STOCK CHIC ●

ANTICOLI GIOIELLI ●

IA N A

A FO

BARUFFI ●

E OV

CC

ELL

DEGLI ● EFFETTI

E OV

VIA D

Piazza Rondanini

● V IV

LI

ALL O

ANA MORG

●

EL

ICO

ARTE ORAFA ●

VI A DEL CO R

BRI

DEL F

ZO

VA

I GA

O LO

LENA

VIA DE L P OZ

UO

V I A DE

O S E N IC ● A R K IM I ● L A O B IA N E U T IL E ●Z E&F ● U T IL

E CC H I O

L'AUTRE CHOSE ● DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR ●

● COSIMO COLONNA ● EX ● DANAE ● CARTOLERIA DEL PANTHEON ● MBT ● TOTEM ● TESTONI V I A C . A N TO N IN A ALESSANDRA GIANNETTI ● Piazza DEGLI EFFETTI ● MASSIMILIANO ARPIGA ● Capranica

ES

Y PENN E G ● LAN

ER N O V OV

A VI A D. M A D D

● TERRACINA

VIA DELLE COPPELLE

SHO

VIC

DE

I

VI

VIC

Via della Maddalena, Piazza Capranica, Via degli Orfani, Via della Minerva, Salita de’ Crescenzi & Piazza della Rotonda

ILARIA NISTRI Italian designer Ilaria Nistri graduated in law and worked for her family’s fabric business before embarking on her own fashion career. Nistri’s first collection was shown in Paris in 2006 and her designs were quickly snapped up by some of the world’s most respected boutiques, including Isetan in Tokyo. For autumn/winter 2016/17, the designer has explored the concept of reflection and mirrors. Unorthodox fabric combinations create a striking contrast of softness and rigidity, and architectural prints by artist Aitor Ortiz give the pieces a very modern appeal.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Officine Ferri, Via Appia Nuova 232, 00183 Rome, +39 06 9436 3407, ilarianistri.com

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

102 | G U I D E

VIA COLA DI RIENZO AREA BENETTON This winter’s Benetton collection takes inspiration from global locations such as the Berlin Wall and Japan. The Dress Up range offers stylish separates as well as party-ready pieces including silk trapeze trousers for women and a dashing jacquard dinner jacket for men. Dress Down makes off-duty style effortless, featuring plenty of cosy knitwear and well-tailored coats and jackets. Dress To Move is a nod to the athleisure movement, with boxy statement jumpers and rubberised rucksacks among other sport-inspired styles.

United Colors of Benetton, Piazza Fontana di Trevi 91-94, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6919 0919, benetton.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 96

Via Cola di Rienzo MERCEDES BENZ ●

Coin Excelsior

● COLONNA

DESIGN OPTICAL ●

VI A AL E SS

A ND RO FA

VI A LU

R NE SE

RO CR EZ IO CA

● VERONICA TOSCANO ● SWAROVSKI ● EMPRESA

● BIALETTI

VI A MA RC

VI A

LO NN A AN TO NI O CO CELLUPRICA ●

● ● ● ●

LA TAVOLA ELEGANTE DOPPELGANGER THE BRIDGE CLICHÈ

● GAJ ALDO ● ● ● ● ● ●

Global Blue Retailer

ZARA HOME ● DAVID SADDLER ● MICHAEL KORS ● SABON ● TWIN-SET ● FRANCESCHINI ● COCCINELLE ● NUVOLARI ● FABIO DE MARCO ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● LIZA ● FAMAR ● TRIUMPH ● TOWER ● ANN GIGLI ● WEEKEND MAX MARA ● BARBARA BOUTIQUE ● ANGELO DI NEPI ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● MAX MARA ●

VI A T ER E NZIO ● CASAGRANDE ● O'BAG STORE ● EREDI PISANÒ

VIA SILLA

VIA ATTILIO REGOLO

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANO ● FALCONERI ● KIKO ● SWATCH ● DANIELLE ●

VIA TA CIT O

3 MILK L'OCCITANE CARLA G SUB DUED BRANDY & MELVILLE VI A O R A ZIO

VIA OVIDIO ● VODAFONE ● RAFI RUBEN ● 7 CAMICIE ● ESOTICA ● BRIAN CRESS ● PAUL TAYLOR ● OPTISSIMO ● ABITART ● PROFUMERIA BERTOZZINI ● CASTRONI

GOLDEN POINT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● TIM ● LUIS SPAGNOLI ● CHOPIN ● BENETTON ● DANY BABY ● STEFANEL ● VIA FA BIO MA SSIMO

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

VIA EZ IO DIEGO CATALDI ● DOUBLE AGENT ● MANILA GRACE ● VANS ● INTIMISSIMI ● ARMONY ● TIE SHOP ● BALLIN ● TIM ● CENTODIECI ● WIND ● CARPISA ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

CIC ER ON E

● TRANCANELLI

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

PULL STOP ● TIGER ● OTTICA TAGLIAFERRI ● MONDADORI ● PENNY BOUTIQUE ● GIORGIO RUBEN ●

● YAMAMAY ● RAFI RUBEN OUTLET

TIFFANY ● VI A PAO LO EMILIO

VIA VIRGILIO

● MANI DI FATA ● LACOSTE ● GEOX ● NIKE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

GENTE ROMA ● FELLINI ● COLLAGE ● TIMBERLAND ● GUESS ● NARA CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● PETIT BATEAU ● TU STORE ● ORIGINAL MARINES ●

Department Store

● BEVERLY HILLS ● OTTICA CHIESA ● FURLA P.45 ● LOVABLE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ACCESSORIZE

VIA PR O ● HALFON P E R Z IO ● MAMILLA ● GENTE OUTLET ● NAU ! ● RAGGI ● LIU JO ● PAUL BIANCO ● BOGGI

● DESIGUAL ● ● ● ● ●

FELLINI JU'STORE RAGGI DAN JOHN DICKINSON

Featured In This Issue

104

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend over €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Downtown Rome Forexchange Maccorp, Via del Caravita 6, 00186 Rome Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda 68B, 00187 Rome Trevi, Via del Lavatore 88A, 00187 Rome

Rome Fiumicino Airport Terminal 3, Departures, Gate H1 Terminal 3, Departures, Check-In Area (Desk 331) Terminal 5, Departures

112 116

121

106

PHOTO: RANDY OHC CC BY 2.0

TRANSLATIONS

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 50: The Rome Less Travelled

Неизвестный Рим

Знаменитые красоты Рима стремятся полностью захватить внимание путешественника. Ханна Льюис исследует менее известные места итальянской столицы, от античных памятников до ресторанов, в которых обедают сами римляне Британская писательница Джордж Элиот однажды назвала Рим «зримым воплощением истории». С этим трудно спорить: город из прошлого повсюду проявляется в городе настоящего. Ведь это прошлое принесло Риму статус культового, так что даже тем, кто еще не бывал здесь, все равно знаком и его характер, и возможности. Главные достопримечательности Рима, globalblue.com

конечно, потрясающие, но если вы совсем немного отойдете от исхоженных маршрутов, то вам откроется совсем другой Вечный город. Другая точка зрения Обойтись без осмотра самых известных достопримечательностей Рима невозможно, зато можно посмотреть на них под непривычным углом. Например, знали ли вы, что сады Ватикана открыты для публики? Визит нужно забронировать заранее, но самые красивые в стране зеленые парки стоят этих усилий. Если в ваши планы входит Колизей, то отправляйтесь на ночную экскурсию: так вы в буквальном смысле увидите в другом свете его впечатляющее пространство. А если вас манит собор Святого Петра, то отправляйтесь на Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta и посмотрите на него через

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замочную скважину главной двери монастыря. Это не самое секретное место, так что, скорее всего, придется постоять в очереди, но в качестве награды вы получите восхитительный вид на идеально обрамленный собор – и это ни с чем не сравнится. Встретиться с историей Но не стоит думать, что список древнеримских памятников ограничивается очевидными достопримечательностями. Может быть, Монте Тестаччо и не столь блистателен, как Пантеон, но это поистине уникальное место. Этот искусственный холм почти полностью состоит из остатков древних амфор, которые датируются начиная со 140 года нашей эры или даже ранее. У подножия холма работают бары и рестораны. Мы рекомендуем заглянуть в Flavio al Velavevodetto, где через стеклянные панели можно увидеть холм изнутри, и в Checchino dal 1887 с винным погребом, стены которого сделаны из старинной керамики. Остия Антика (Ostia Antica) – еще одно незаслуженно обделенное вниманием место, всего в получасе езды от центра Рима. Когда-то здесь, в устье реки Тибр, располагался порт. Сейчас здесь моря уже нет, но древняя гавань примечательна сохранившимися зданиями, чудесными фресками и мозаиками. Хорошая идея также побывать на Аппиевой дороге (Appia Antica) – одной из самых старых мощеных дорог в мире. Мы не станем рекомендовать проследовать весь путь, однако около Терм Каракалла можно взглянуть на самое начало дороги. Альтернативные артефакты Разумеется, римские музеи – в числе обязательных к посещению. Но если вам не по душе толпы туристов, то есть в итальянской столице и другие возможности. Например, Centrale Montemartini будет интересен всем

неравнодушным к древнеримской скульптуре. В этом здании раньше располагалась электростанция, и подобное сочетание древности и современности открывает новый взгляд на одно из самых традиционных видов искусства. Тем более, будет неправильным называть Рим хранителем только классической культуры.

Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, или Maxxi, – это первый национальный музей Италии, полностью посвященный современному искусству. Само здание, которое спроектировала Заха Хадид, впечатляет не меньше, чем произведения из музейной коллекции. Местные вкусы Еда, очевидно, достойна особого внимания в итальянской столице. От пиццы и пасты до желато и тирамису, – итальянская кухня славится на весь мир, и где же еще наслаждаться ею, как не в Риме? С утра до ночи в этом городе можно есть, пить и радоваться жизни. И едва ли существует более надежный способ выбрать лучшие заведения, чем поступать так же, как римляне. Начните день с пенистого кофе в Castroni на Via Cola di Rienzo. Свою порцию капучино лучше выпить утром, поскольку в Италии не принято пить кофе с молоком после 11 утра. Для неформального перекуса загляните в Necci – стильный и уютный бар, где готовят из местных и главным образом органических продуктов. Он расположен в модном районе Pigneto, так что ваш обед пройдет в окружении самых стильных римлян. На десерты после трапезы загляните в Linari на Via Nicola Zabaglia, который вполне заслуженно любят местные жители: домашние пироги и выпечка здесь вас точно не разочаруют. Ужин с вином На более официальный ужин можно отправиться в современную тратторию Armando al Pantheon. Она специализируется на античных блюдах в стиле «cucina povera» – «кухни для бедных». Ресторан оказался

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в русле популярного в Европе движения и включил в меню блюда из костного мозга и потрохов. Эти ингредиенты доступны повсюду, но раньше их недооценивали. Теперь же шеф-повара создают из них красивые и вкусные блюда, за которыми сюда приходят местные гурманы. Но когда речь заходит о десертах, каждому известно, что лучший тирамису в Риме можно отведать на Via della Croce at Pompi. Римляне любят вино и считают винную карту в Il Goccetto на Via dei Banchi Vecchi настолько интересной, что выстраиваются в очереди у входа. Неподалеку от Колизея есть еще одно любимое местными заведение – Enoteca Provincia Romana. Славится Италия и своим пивом, попробовать лучшие сорта можно в Antica Birreria Peroni. Наш любимый бар – Il Baretto, из него открывается чудесный вид на шумный район Трастевере. Здесь всегда есть хорошие вина, холодное пиво и коктейли, а также снэки и легкие закуски. По-настоящему это место оживает, когда в городе заканчиваются рабочие часы, и нет места лучше, чтобы завершить день знакомства с Римом.

62: Look For The Bufalo

В поисках бизона

Красивая кожгалантерея и бизон в логотипе – стиль итальянской марки Il Bisonte остается узнаваемым многие годы. Ванни Ди Филиппо рассказывает Салли МакИлхоун историю успеха своей компании Если вы отправляетесь в Италию на шоппинг, то наверняка ищите нечто настоящее и отмеченное ярлыком Made In Italy. В этом случае идеальным выбором будет бренд Il Bisonte. Эта компания производит великолепные кожаные сумки, сумочки и небольшие аксессуары в самом сердце Тосканы, и у нее, помимо всего прочего, блестящая история и харизматичный основатель и руководитель Ванни Ди Филиппо. Сумки Il Bisonte созданы под влиянием актуальных трендов, но в то же время сохраняют оригинальный стиль марки. Это сочетание делает их globalblue.com

востребованными среди желающих увезти с собой такую вещь, которую в своем городе не встретить в руках всякого ценителя моды. «Я всегда любил делать что-нибудь своими руками, – рассказывает Ванни Ди Филиппо. – Когда мне было 20 лет, я общался с ребятами со всей Европы. Они привили мне интерес к небольшим предметам, и тогда мне в голову пришла идея работать с кожей». Именно во Флоренции Ди Филиппо учился и применял навыки в своем деле: «Так получилось, что по ряду личных причин я обосновался во Флоренции. Здесь и началось мое приключение: я начал делать первые сумки вручную в 1969 году. Тот маленький магазинчик находится в центре города – в паре шагов от нашего главного магазина сейчас». Для развития бизнеса Ди Филиппо объединил усилия с еще одним молодым флорентийцем Лучиано Масини: «Когда я только начинал, у меня не было ни малейшего понятия, что будет со мной или моими идеями. Я работал в маленьком подвале на Via del Parione, он существует до сих пор – это первый в истории магазин

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

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Il Bisonte. Лучиано был еще моложе меня, и он до сих пор работает в компании. Все, что я могу сказать об этом, – я счастлив, что воплотил эту мечту». Мечта продолжает сбываться во многом благодаря умению выстраивать позитивные партнерские отношения, и в этом искусстве бренд достиг совершенства: «Мы сотрудничаем с одними и теми же поставщиками кожи и фурнитуры уже 45 лет, почти все из них работают в Тоскане. Взаимное уважение помогает нам держаться вместе в профессиональном смысле. А это большая работа – создавать надежные и прочные вещи, будь то сумка ручной работы или отношения между людьми. В этом и заключается наш секрет». Стремясь поддерживать взаимовыгодные отношения, компания Il Bisonte остается верной людям и идеям, с которыми работает 45 лет. То же самое можно сказать и об эстетике, не претерпевшей значительных изменений за всю историю компании: «За это люди и любят Il Bisonte: вопреки всему, наш бренд никогда не меняется, – объясняет Ди

Филиппо. – В основе каждой вещи лежит преданность силуэтам и историческим материалам, по которым марку узнают». Образ бизона также сопровождает компанию на всей ее истории: «Меня всегда впечатляли бизоны – эти огромные чудовища, которые на самом деле такие хрупкие, беззащитные, искренние. Я просто влюбился в этот образ и стал делать коллекцию различных предметов с изображением животного», – говорит Ди Филиппо. Логотип стал знаком качества бренда: по этому оттиску знающие люди легко узнают творение марки Il Bisonte. Родина бренда находится во Флоренции, тем не менее, особое значение имеют связи с Римом, где расположено два магазина: «Все любят Рим, и я тоже люблю его, – делится Ди Филиппо. – Рим – большой и молодой город, он полон жизни». Но где бы вы ни зашли магазин Il Bisonte, в Риме или Флоренции, вы непременно увидите там всю коллекцию осень-зима 2016/17: в нее вошли традиционные модели и необычные сумки из кожи коньячного оттенка, большие черные сумки для шоппинга и мини-корзинки для романтичного обеда, холдеры и папки для документов, рюкзаки на пряжке для городских путешествий и саквояжи из кожи и твида. «Наряду с традиционной телячьей кожей мы используем и другие, менее привычные материалы, например, полосатую ткань для шезлонгов, – комментирует основатель бренда. – Нам нравится исследовать и экспериментировать, это добавляет нашим материалами характерность: например, по телячьей коже, дубленой растительными экстрактами, нас узнают во всем мире». Если говорить о планах на будущее, то Il Bisonte собирается и впредь придерживаться своей выигрышной формулы: «Мы хотим оставаться теми, кем мы являемся, и сохранить в работе искренность, присущую нам последние 45 лет, – говорит основатель марки. – В основе нашего бизнеса и в последующие 45 лет останется высочайшее качество продукции. Я гарантирую это». А гарантия Ванни Ди Филиппо относится к числу тех, которым стоит доверять.

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70: Scent From Italy

Аромат Италии

Паола Боттаи – один из самых востребованных парфюмеров Рима. Для своих необыкновенных композиций она использует классические ингредиенты, произрастающие в Италии. О своей давней любви к запахам и своем видении успешного будущего итальянской парфюмерии она рассказала Джошу Симсу Паола Боттаи предпочитает называть работу с ароматами делом всей жизни: «Я всегда с энтузиазмом относилась к запахам в целом. В детстве мое настроение очень сильно зависело от того, какой аромат я вдыхала – „отвратительный“ или притягательный. Запахи способны навевать воспоминания, и это может как пугать, так и завораживать». Прошло всего пять лет с момента, когда Боттаи получила профессиональное образование: она училась на юге Франции – в городе Грас, который считается духовной родиной парфюмерии. За этот небольшой срок она успела поработать с самыми разными компаниями: парфюмерным брендом Carthusia, автомобильным производителем Mini, крошечной, но знаменитой миланской парикмахерской Bullfrog и винотекой Cantina Tramin. Кстати, проект с винотекой стал «супер-интересным опытом», поскольку в нем соединились миры вина и парфюма. «Я никогда не рассылала свои резюме и не делала ничего подобного, – так Боттеи рассказывает о своей принципиальной независимости. – Клиенты приходят ко мне, потому что они почувствовали где-то один из созданных мной ароматов. Так и должно быть». Несмотря на то, что многие парфюмерные композиции были созданы при непосредственном участии Боттаи, парфюм под ее собственным именем еще только в планах, причем далеких. Во многом это обусловлено некоторым разочарованием в текущем состоянии отрасли, о чем она может судить профессионально: раньше она изучала маркетинг и коммуникации и работала в музыкальном бизнесе. globalblue.com

Парфюмерной сцене присуща слишком назойливая реклама с особым акцентом на фешенебельности. «Аромат может быть сколь угодно фешенебельным, но ужасно пахнуть на конкретном человеке. Вы же не будете его использовать только потому, что он «модный»? – улыбается парфюмер. – Кроме того, в последние годы появилась настоящая волна так называемой нишевой парфюмерии, причем зачастую эти компании не живут дольше шести месяцев. Нишевых ароматов создано столько, что их уже сложно назвать нишевыми. Все чаще это слово используется в значении «дорогой». Более того, появляются ароматы с загадочными ингредиентами вроде «голубой розы». Что это вообще такое – голубая роза?» Ценители букетов, которые создает Боттаи, вряд ли гонятся за претенциозностью. Она сделала себе имя на простоте своих композиций: в самой спокойной, лаконичной манере она соединяет классические ингредиенты, такие как ветивер, янтарь, пачули и бергамот. В ее сочетаниях просто нет экзотических альтернативных компонентов: «Я

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придерживаюсь подхода «меньше значит больше». Когда вы вдыхаете аромат, который я создала, вы можете различить все, что в него добавлено. Я никогда не хочу пугать неизвестными добавками, которые внезапно обнаружатся в букете». Наибольшую известность Боттаи принесли проекты для мужчин: «Этот сегмент рынка требует больших усилий, поскольку мужчины сильнее привязаны к тем парфюмам, которые они уже используют. В связи с этим мне кажется, что общепринятые различия между «мужскими» и «женственными» ароматами надуманы. Есть только хорошие и не очень парфюмы. Роза считается символом женственности, хотя далеко не везде в мире ее трактуют как символ любви и страсти. Но мне нравится работать с контрастами. И я думаю, что аромат розы на мужчине может быть столь же великолепным». Созданные Боттаи ароматы можно охарактеризовать и как истинно итальянские. Ее ателье расположено в Риме, и сама она выросла в квартале Париоли. Флакончики, ярлыки и упаковка – все производится в Италии. Даже пробники для клиентов она оформляет сама. Во всех возможных случаях она использует компоненты, которые растут в итальянских деревушках. По большому счету, она деятельно участвует в новом восхождении парфюмерного дела Италии. «Сфера моды составляет большую часть экономики Италии, и ярлык Made in Italy очень важен во многих сферах. Но когда речь идет о парфюмерии, люди вспоминают, в первую очередь, Францию. При этом у Италии большая парфюмерная история, которая открывается каждому заинтересованному. Например, центры производства ароматов были во Флоренции и Венеции, ведь там шла торговля редкими восточными ингредиентами. И именно Екатерина Медичи сделала Грас столь важным для парфюмерии местом». Екатерина Медичи происходила из итальянской аристократической семьи и впоследствии стала королевой Франции. Считается, что именно она заложила моду

на городскую парфюмерию, после того как получила в подарок ароматизированные перчатки из Граса. В самом начале творческого пути Боттаи сотрудничала с гигантом парфюмерной отрасли и быстро убедилась, что этот путь не для нее, несмотря на возможность сделать себе имя. Она предпочитает сохранять относительную анонимность, оставаясь за кулисами. Однако в предстоящие годы ее ждет неминуемая известность, как и всю итальянскую парфюмерию: «Я люблю ароматы, – делится она. – И не только на спиртовой основе. Я люблю играть с ароматами во всех формах – средствах для лица и тела, ароматизаторах для дома и даже автомобиля. Запахи могут подарить целый мир, который еще предстоит открыть». Три лучших места Паола Боттаи поделилась с SHOP лучшими, по ее мнению, парфюмерными магазинами 1. Original Toiletries «Я работала с этой компанией. Она представляет множество брендов с историей, которые создают ароматы для мужчин, а также небольшую подборку товаров для женщин» Original Toiletries, Viale dei Colli Portuensi 530, 00151 Рим, +39 06 6579 5281, originaltoiletries.com 2. Campomarzio70 «Магазин настоящей нишевой парфюмерии, где собраны роскошные бренды. Он находится в центре Рима, в паре шагов от Площади Испании» Campomarzio70, Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Рим, +39 06 6979 7739, campomarzio70.it 3. Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania «Маленький парфюмерный магазин в районе Париоли, где и зародилась моя страсть к ароматам. Он находится буквально в 200 метрах от моего дома, и в детстве я ходила сюда делать домашнее задание» Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania, Via Luigi Luciani 38, 00197 Рим, +39 06 321 8386

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104: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте свыше €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

PHOTO: GENGISH SKAN CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 描述为“流淌着历史的城市”，这不无道理。这座城市 的过去就印刻在这座城市的今天——正是这样的过 去赋予了罗马如此强大的风格特征，使得从未到访 的人也能感受到它的气息和它能给予的一切。不消 说，罗马的主要地标令人印象尤其深刻，但只要你稍 稍偏离人流如织的道路，你将会发现这座永恒之城 的另一面。 不同视角 虽然总是逃不开罗马最著名景点的诱惑，但让我们 不妨换一个角度来游览这座城市。比如，您知道梵蒂 冈花园是对公众开放的吗？只要提前预约，您就可以 尽情观赏意大利最漂亮的绿地花园。如果罗马斗兽 场（Colosseum）排在您的参观列表首位，不妨预订 晚间参观，欣赏这不同的光线之下的巨大圆形空间。 如果您对圣彼得教堂（Saint Peter’s Basilica）有兴 趣，那么您也可以前往马耳他骑士团广场（Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta），从小隐修院的大门锁孔一 睹教堂风采。这是一个公开的秘密，所以您可能需 要排队参观，但是那穿过林荫小道的视角一定让您 不虚此行。 大开眼界

50: The Rome Less Travelled 罗马探幽 来到罗马这样的标志性城市，镁光灯势必聚焦经典 的观光之地。从古老的历史遗迹到备受当地人喜爱 的餐厅，Hannah Lewis带您探索这座城市人迹罕至 之处 英国小说家乔治·艾略特（George Eliot）曾将罗马 globalblue.com

提到古罗马景点，莫要将显而易见的去处视为您仅 有的选择。古老的泰斯塔修山（Monte Testaccio） 可能不及万神殿（Pantheon）雄伟壮丽，却也是一 处独特的古迹。它是一座用土罐碎片人工堆砌的山 头，其历史可追溯至公元140年，甚至可能更早。山 底修建了许多酒吧和餐厅，我们向您推荐Flavio al Velavevodetto，在那里，您能透过玻璃窗一探泰斯 塔修山的内部构造；还有Checchino dal 1887酒

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窖，其墙壁全由这些古老的土罐制成。 奥斯提亚古城（Ostia Antica）也常常被人忽 略。这座古老的港口城市曾经坐落于台伯河 （Tiber）河口，距离罗马仅半小时车程。如今该城 虽然不再触及海洋，其保存下来的建筑结构依然令 人叹为观止，那精美非凡的湿壁画和镶嵌画也让人 啧啧称奇。何不瞧一瞧历史上最古老的柏油马路之 一——阿皮亚古道（Appia Antica），虽然我们不建 议您走完全程，但您大可探索一下古道起始段—— 卡拉卡拉浴场（Baths of Caracalla）。 非同一般的艺术品 不难想像，罗马的博物馆是这里的大看点。但如果 不喜欢拥挤的人群，您其实也有许多其他选 择。Centrale Montemartini便是古罗马雕塑爱好 者另辟蹊径之选，它的所在之处前身是一座发电站， 这种古老与现代的结合给予我们新的视角，来审视 雕塑这种经典艺术。但罗马并非只有古典艺术。21 世纪国家艺术博物馆（Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo），俗称Maxxi博物馆，是意 大利第一座专门展列当代艺术的国家美术馆。该馆 由著名建筑师Zaha Hadid设计，其外观和内部展品 一样震慑人心。

食”）登上大雅之堂的潮流。这种大量供应且容易获 得的食材常常被人忽略，但大厨却用它们打造成了 全罗马最精致美味的珍馐，深受本地食客的青睐。 而说到甜点，所有人都知道罗马城最受称道的提拉 米苏要到Via della Croce大街上的Pompi才能品尝 得到。 罗马人爱喝葡萄酒，而位于Via dei Banchi Vecchi大街的Il Goccetto酿藏颇丰，让人心甘情愿 去排队享用。如果您在斗兽场附近，那么广受当地人 喜爱的Enoteca Provincia Romana也是不错的选 择。其实，意大利人同样精于酿造啤酒，Antica Birreria Peroni便是当地最好的啤酒商。然而，凭借 其绝佳地理位置，Il Baretto还是一举成为了罗马酒 吧的首选推荐对象。从酒吧里能直接看到繁忙的 Travestere区景象，吧内提供各式上好的葡萄酒、 冰啤酒和鸡尾酒，还有一系列零食和小吃。到了傍晚 时分，酒吧便真正活了起来，成为一日探索之旅的最 佳句点。

62: Look For The Bufalo 寻找野牛

Il Bisonte的野牛商标别具一格，其精心打造的原创 皮具亦是如此。创始人Wanny Di Filippo向Sally McIlhone 讲述了这个意大利品牌成功背后的故事

本地美食

美酒和珍馐 若要享用正餐，那么Armando al Pantheon便是一 个不错的选择。这家现代餐馆将传统美味再度搬回 到欧洲人的餐桌之上，比如骨髓和下水（内脏），开 启了一种让“cucina povera”（翻译过来便是“穷人之

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

罗马的另一大魅力当然就是美食了。从比萨饼到意 大利面，从冰淇淋到提拉米苏，意大利美食受到了全 世界人民的喜爱。品尝意式珍馐还有哪里比首都罗 马更好呢？无论早晚，这座城市都充满了可以享受 美味、佳酿与欢愉的地点，只需跟随当地人的选择 即可实现。 您可以前往位于Via Cola di Rienzo大街的 Castroni，用一杯起泡咖啡开始您的一天。趁现在 喝一杯卡布奇诺吧，因为罗马人从不会在早上11之 后喝加奶咖啡。若想小食一餐，您可以试试时尚而又 温馨的酒吧Necci，这里的食物大多由本地出产的 有机原料制成。它坐落于时髦的Pigneto地区，因此 与您一同用餐的可谓是罗马最酷族群。午餐过后，您 若想犒劳一下自己，不妨造访Via Nicola Zabaglia 大街的Linari，它家的自制蛋糕和油酥点心让人禁 不住食指大动，是名副其实的罗马人之爱。

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的联系，Il Bisonte在该市拥有两家门店。“所有人都 喜欢罗马，我也喜欢，”Di Filippo说道，“罗马很大， 充满年轻气息和蓬勃生机。”无论是在罗马还是在佛 罗伦萨，您都可以在Il Bisonte门店见到非凡夺目的 2016/17秋冬季皮包系列，从传统款式到干邑色调 的不规则形状皮包，从容量超大的黑色购物包到精 致小巧的浪漫晚餐水桶包，从办公室演示所需的文 件袋到城市旅游搭扣挎包，以及皮革和粗花呢制成 的周末出行包，店内收藏应有尽有，令人眼花缭乱。 “与传统的母牛皮相为搭配的是许多其他特殊材质， 如制作折叠躺椅所用的条纹布料，”Di Filippo说 道。“我们喜欢进行调查和实验，为我们的经典材料 加入同样卓越的元素，比如用蔬菜鞣制的母牛皮， 这在世界上可谓绝无仅有。” 对于未来计划，Il Bisonte将会沿用其制胜秘 诀。“我们想要继续保持自我，以不变的真诚与忠心， 对待45年以来的合作伙伴和自身信念，”品牌创始者 说道。“接下来的45年里，我们会继续将产品质量置 于核心地位，我保证。” Wanny Di Filippo的保证， 绝对值得信赖。

70: Scent From Italy 意大利芳香 罗马顶级调香师Paola Bottai运用意大利土生土长 的经典原料，打造了一系列独树一帜的香水作品。她 向Josh Sims讲述了她对气味的执着与热爱，阐释她 为什么认为意大利香水代表着业界未来

Paola Bottai乐于认为自己一生中无时无刻都在接 受着香味的熏陶。“一直以来我都对气味充满热忱。

PHOTO: ANNE DAVIS 773 CC BY-NC 2.0

如果您来意大利购物，就必然会去寻找取材于此、 设计于此的物件，将注有“意大利制造”的真正奢华 之物收入囊中。在您的寻觅之旅中，没有比Il Bisonte更好的品牌了。该品牌位于托斯卡纳腹地， 专注于生产精美非凡的皮包、皮夹和小配饰，其背后 还有着魅力卓绝的创始人Wanny Di Filippo所书 写的一段伟大故事。Il Bisonte的手提包设计引领潮 流，原创感十足，如果不想回到家后与人“撞包”，它就 是您的不二之选。 “一直以来我都很喜欢用双手去创造，” Wanny Di Filippo说道。“20岁的时候，我与一群来自欧洲 各地的年轻人聚到了一起。他们教会了我制作各种 小物件，也是从那时起，我有了与皮革打交道的念 头。”Di Filippo在佛罗伦萨学会了皮件制作手艺，并 将所学转化成了一门生意。“出于一些个人原因，我 恰好在佛罗伦萨驻足了几天，随后便踏上了这段旅 程；1969年，我在一家位于佛罗伦萨市中心的小店 动手制作了第一批皮包。这家小店距离我们如今的 主店仅几步之遥。” 后来，Di Filippo与另一位佛罗伦萨年轻人 Luciano Masini携手，共同开拓生意。“刚起步的时 候，我完全不知道我的未来会如何，也不知道我的想 法会不会成功，”他回忆道。“创立之初的店面位于 Via del Parione的一间小地下室——它如今还在， 那就是Il Bisonte历史上的第一家店。当时与我一同 创业的还有比我更年轻的Luciano，他现在依然在 公司里。我只能说，我很高兴实现了自己的一个梦 想。” 延续Il Bisonte之梦的秘诀之一就是保持积极 的合作关系，在这方面，品牌可谓已达到了炉火纯青 的境界。“我们与相同的皮革及零件供应商已合作了 整整45个年头，他们几乎都是托斯卡纳本土的商 家。相互尊重让我们一路以来的职业合作亲密无 间，”Di Filippo解释道。“无论是打造手工皮包还是 维系人与人之间的关系，这类实在而长久的事情都 需要投入巨大的精力。这就是我们的秘诀。” 为了缔结互利共赢的关系，45年来Il Bisonte一 直真诚面对合作伙伴，忠于自身原则。同样适用的， 还有其一以贯之的审美品位。“这就是人们喜爱Il Bisonte的原因；无论外界如何变化，Il Bisonte始终 如一，”Di Filippo解释道。“每件作品，无一例外， 都忠实地遵循了品牌标志性的设计思路，采用经典 用料精心制作而成。” 野牛图案也一直贯穿了Il Bisonte的历史。“野牛 始终很吸引我，这种野兽虽然身形巨大，但同时也很 脆弱无助、纯粹真实。我深深爱上了他们，并开始制 作一系列不同物件来描绘野牛，”Di Filippo说道。 野牛商标也已成为品牌的质量保证，懂行之人看到 此印记，立刻能够辨认出Il Bisonte独有的风格。 虽然品牌源于佛罗伦萨，却与罗马也有着重要

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在我成长的过程中，无论是‘恶心的’还是好闻的味 道，都会对我的心情产生很大的影响，”她说道。“气 味是我们脑中记忆的一个深层来源，这有点吓人，但 也很迷人。” 这位罗马调香师五年前才刚刚于香水之 都——法国南部城市格拉斯完成她的调香训练，如 今她已与各类品牌展开协作，合作对象包括香水品 牌Carthusia、汽车公司Mini、规模虽小却广受赞誉 的米兰精品理发店Bullfrog，其与葡萄酒公司 Cantina Tramin 之间“超级酷的合作”更是将葡萄 酒和香水的世界完美融合。“我从来没有发过一份简 历或者类似的东西，”这位坚持独立设计的调香师说 道。“客户来找我是因为他们闻过我的香水。按理也 应是如此。” 虽然许多香水发布时都骄傲地标上了Bottai的 名字，但她至今还未打造自己的招牌香水，其设计还 只是初具雏形。其中部分原因在于，Bottai对目前以 市场为导向的香水行业已有些许失望——读完传播 学后，她进入音乐行业工作了几年，清楚地意识到了 市场现状；同时，对香水的大肆宣传以及更甚的对 其“可流行性”的追求，让她的心不免又凉了几分。“某 个香味可能是很流行，但在你身上闻起来也许很恶 心。为什么因为它‘流行’，你就要喷它呢？”她笑道。“ 近几年还出现了一大波小众调香师，其自创品牌往 往撑不过半年。事实上，现在小众香水已经多到不 能称之为小众了。而小众一词往往意味着‘昂贵’，所 以你就会看到某些香水发布的时候标榜自己使用了 像‘蓝色玫瑰’这样的神秘原料。我都不知道蓝色玫瑰 是什么。” 顾客不太可能在Bottai香水身上发现如此做作 的成分。这位调香师的作品以简约著称，以毫不复杂 而又摩登时尚的方式，精妙运用香草根、琥珀、广藿 香及佛手柑等各种经典原料。你不会在她的香水中 发现任何扭捏作态的替代原料。“我的方法就是‘少即 是多’，”她说道。“如果你闻到我调制的香水，你就能 立刻闻出其中的原料。我不想用混合香中的某些东 西吓到任何人。” Bottai最为人称道的作品是男士香水。“这个市 场更具挑战性，因为男士对自己用过的香水要忠诚得 多，”她说道。“话虽如此，我认为把香水划分为所谓 的‘男士’和‘女士’具有一定误导性。世上只有好的香 水和不怎么好的香水之分。玫瑰一直被用在女士香 水中，哪怕它所象征的爱与激情在世界各地各不相 同；但我就喜欢反其道而行。这也是为何我认为将玫 瑰用在男士身上也会一样棒。” Bottai之香水最首要的特点可能还是其满满的 意大利风情。她的工作室位于首都罗马，她从小就在 Parioli区域长大。她的香水瓶、标签和包装都在意 大利本土制作完成；非同寻常的是，当她为顾客准备 香水样品的时候，她还会亲自完成瓶子、标签和包

装的设计。Bottai尽可能地使用原产于意大利乡间 的原料。事实上，她正积极投身于意大利香水业的 再度崛起。 “很显然，意大利的时尚行业非常发达，‘意大利 制造’在方方面面而言都很重要。可是一提到香水， 人们想到的往往是法国，”她说道。“但是，真正懂香 水的人都知道，意大利的制香史也很长，佛罗伦萨和 威尼斯就是很好的例子，因为它们是珍稀原料由东 到西进行贸易的关键之地；殊不知，让格拉斯和其出 产的香水扬名于世的功臣是凯瑟琳·德·美地奇 （Catherine de Medici）”（凯瑟琳·德·美地奇，意 大利贵妇，后成为法国皇后，喜欢带有香味的手套。 据说她得到了一副格拉斯制造的手套，随后开始大 力推广该镇的香水）。 Bottai早年曾为一香水业巨头公司工作，这段 经历让她很快意识到这条路不适合她，虽然她可能 有机会一举成名。她更喜欢在幕后默默创造，不喜 欢抛头露面。但是，如意大利香水一样，她注定会在 未来为更多人所知。“我爱香水，”她说道，“不仅限于 大家喷的基于酒精的香水。我喜欢把玩各种形式的 香水——面霜和沐浴露，家用抑或是车用。香水的奇 妙世界还有待我们慢慢发掘。” 三大推荐

Paola Bottai与SHOP分享了她最喜欢的三家罗马 香水店

1. Original Toiletries “这是我的合作方之一。他们甄选了许多历史悠久的 品牌，主营男士美容产品，也有小部分女士香水。” Original Toiletries, Viale dei Colli Portuensi 530, 00151 Rome, +39 06 6579 5281, originaltoiletries.com 2. Campomarzio70 “一家真正小众的奢侈香水品牌店，位于罗马腹地， 距西班牙广场（Piazza di Spagna）仅几步之遥。” Campomarzio70, Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7739,

campomarzio70.it 3. Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania “位于Parioli地区，让我渐渐爱上香水的一家小型香 水店，离我家只有200米，小时候我还会跑到那里做 功课。”

Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania, Via Luigi Luciani 38, 00197 Rome, +39 06 321 8386

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140: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是 寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form）。

英国の小説家ジョージ・エリオットがかつて、ローマ を「歴史が見える都市」と表現した。まさしくその通 りだ。近代都市の中にいにしえのローマの痕跡がは っきりと見て取れ、文明の象徴を印象づける。実際 に訪ねたことのない人でさえ、その持ち味や見どころ がわかるほどだ。ただ、ローマの主要ランドマークは 確かに世界有数の壮観だが、お決まりの観光ルート を少し離れると永遠の都の違った表情を見ることが できる。

2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 消费超过€154.94即可节省高达购买价格15.5%的 金额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是 要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为 单位收取现金退税手续费。

視点を変えて見てみると…

日本語 50: The Rome Less Travelled ローマの穴場

PHOTO: SOPRINTENDENZA ARCHEOLOGICA DI ROMA

ローマのようなアイコニックな都市では、お馴染みの 観光名所につい目を奪われがちだ。そこで、ハンナ・ ルイスが古代遺跡から市民のお気に入りの食事処ま で、ローマのとっておきの穴場を案内する。

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ローマのよく知られた観光スポットは避けて通るわ けにはいかないが、ちょっと角度を変えてみると新た な魅力に気付く。例えば、バチカン庭園が一般に公 開されているのをご存じだろうか。事前予約が必要 だが、イタリアでも屈指のこの美しい緑地スペースを 散策する価値は十分にある。必見リストのトップがコ ロッセオなら、ナイトツアーを予約しよう。この広大 なスペースを文字通り違った光で見ることができる。 サン・ピエトロ大聖堂が素敵という人は、ピアッツ ァ・デイ・カヴァリエリ・ディ・マルタ（マルタ騎士団 広場）へ行って、 マルタ騎士団の館の表玄関の鍵穴 から大聖堂を覗き見てみよう。このスポットは公然の 秘密で行列待ちになる可能性があるが、生垣の間に 完璧にとらえられた大聖堂の姿は素晴らしく、待った 甲斐があると感じるはずだ。本当にスペシャルな感 がある。 意外な穴場 古代ローマの見どころは、当然のチョイスの他にもい ろいろある。モンテ・テスタッチョはパンテオンほど 華麗ではないが、独特の古代遺跡だ。古代ローマ人 が使ったアンフォラ（壺）のかけらでできた人工の堤 で、出土する陶器片は紀元140年、おそらくはそれ以

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前に遡るという。モンテ・テスタッチョの麓には、堤 の斜面を掘り込む形で造られたバーやレストランが たくさんある。お薦めは、ガラスのパネル越しに堤の 内部が見られるフラヴィオ・アル・ヴェラヴェヴォデッ トと、古代の壺の破片が壁を成すワインセラーを見 学できるケッキーノ・ダル1887だ。 もう一つ見過ごされがちな穴場がオスティア・アンテ ィカだ。ローマから30分のここは、かつてはテヴェレ 川の河口に位置した古代ローマの港だった。今はも う海に面していないが、見事に保全された構造をは じめ、美しいフレスコ画やモザイクなど旧港の面影は 色濃い。一方、史上最古の舗装道路の一つ、アッピ ア・アンティカ（アッピア街道）を見に行く手もある。 全長を歩くことはお薦めしないが、カラカラ浴場で街 道の起点を見ることができる。 ちょっと変わった美術館 ローマの美術・博物館はもちろん大きな魅力の一つ だが、人混みが苦手なら他にも見どころはたくさんあ る。古代ローマの彫像に魅せられている人なら、チェ ントラーレ・モンテマルティーニ美術館がいい。この 美術館はかつて発電所だった建物内にあり、古代と 近代が並置された館内では彫刻という古典的な表 現手段を新たな視点で見ることができる。ローマは 古典芸術だけではない。イタリア国立21世紀美術館 （通称「マキシ」）はイタリア初の現代芸術専門の国 立美術館だ。有名建築家のザハ・ハディドがデザイン した建物は、展示品に優るとも劣らないインパクトを 与える。

通りのリナーリが人気店だ。ホームメードのケーキや ペイストリーはどれも絶品で、期待を裏切らない。 ワイニング＆ダイニング ちょっとフォーマルな食事をという時は、伝統食を大 切にする現代的なトラットリア、アルマンド・アル・パ ンテオン。 「クッチーナ・ポヴェーラ」 （「質素な料理」 という意味）を出すこのレストランは、骨髄や臓物を ヨーロッパ中のメニューに復活させたスローフード運 動の一環だ。豊富にあって簡単に手に入るのに見過 ごされてきた食材を改めて見直そうというもので、シ ェフたちがローマでも出色の美しくておいしい料理を 提供してくれる。こういう店こそが地元民の食事処 だ。ただ、デザートということになると、ローマで一番 のティラミスはクローチェ通りのポンピで決まりだと 誰もがいう。 また、ローマ人はワイン好き。バンキ・ヴェッキ通りの イル・ゴッチェットは行列ができるくらいだから、選り すぐりのボトルを揃えているのは間違いない。コロッ セオの界隈にいるなら、エノテカ・プロヴィンチャ・ロ マーナもローマっ子に愛されている。イタリアはビー ルも美味で、アンティカ・ビッレリア・ペローニではと びきりの地ビールを飲ませてくれる。ただ、ローマで お薦めのバーはと聞かれると、やはり賑やかなトラス テヴェレ地区を見渡せるイル・バレットだろう。上質 のワイン、冷たいビール、カクテルの他、バースナック や軽食もあるこのバーが賑わいを増すのは勤め帰り の時間帯以降。ローマ探検の一日の締めくくりにぴっ たりの場所だ。

その他にローマの魅力と言えば、やはり食べ物だろ う。ピザにパスタ、ジェラート、ティラミスなどイタリア 料理は世界中で愛されているが、それを楽しむのに ご当地の首都より他にいい場所があるだろうか。ロ ーマは朝から晩まで、食べて、飲んで、人生を楽しめ る場所があちこちにあって賑やかだ。店を選ぶ時の コツは、ローマっ子に倣うこと。 一日の始まりは、コーラ・ディ・リエンツォ通りにある カストローニで飲むミルクフォームたっぷりのコーヒ ーから。カプチーノがないと日が暮れない向きは今 のうちに飲んでおこう。というのは、ローマっ子は午 前11時以降はミルク入りのコーヒーを飲まないから だ。軽く朝食をとるなら、有機食材を主体にした食事 を地元民に出すスタイリッシュで親しみやすいバー、 ネッチはいかがだろうか。トレンディなピニェート地 区にあり、いかすローマ人に交じって食事をとること になる。ランチ後のおやつなら、ニコラ・ツァバーリャ

PHOTO: ANDREA DI LORENZO

食のローマ

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62: Look For The Bufalo バッファローが目印

ショッピングの旅でイタリアを訪れるなら、イタリア 産の材料を使いイタリアでデザインされた品に投資 したい、 「メイド・イン・イタリア」の印が入った本物 の逸品を買いたいと思うもの。そんな人にお薦めな のがイル ビゾンテだ。トスカーナの中心で美しい革 製のバッグ、ハンドバッグ、小物を生産する同社は、 その商品はもちろん、会社とその表看板である創業 者ワニー・ディ・フィリッポのストーリーも素晴らし い。イル ビゾンテのハンドバッグはトレンドを取り入 れながらもオリジナルな魅力にあふれ、自国のスタイ ル通が誰でも持っている品とはちょっと違ったもの を探している人は必見だ。 「昔から手でモノを作るのが好きなんです」とい うワニー・ディ・フィリッポ。 「二十歳の時に、ヨーロッ パ中から集まった若者のグループに出会いました。 小物の作り方を教わり、皮仕事をやろうと思い立った のです。」ディ・フィリッポが習得した技能を活かして ビジネスを始めた舞台はフィレンツェ。 「個人的な事 情がいろいろあって、たまたまフィレンツェにたどり 着いたんです。フィレンツェの中心の、現在の本店か ら歩いてすぐのところにあった小さな工房で、最初の バッグを手作りしたのが1969年。そこから私のアド ベンチャーが始まりました。」

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ディ・フィリッポは、フィレンツェ出身の若者ルチ アーノ・マシーニと手を組んでビジネスを発展させて いった。 「始めた頃は、自分の将来がどうなるかも、 自分のアイデアがどう形になるかも皆目わかりません でした。イル ビゾンテの最初の工房はパリオーネ通 りの小さな地下室で、相棒は自分よりさらに若い少 年のルチアーノでした。この一号店は今も健在で、ル チアーノも当社でずっと働いています。とにかく、夢 の一つが実現したのは嬉しいですね。」 イル ビゾンテの夢が生き続けている背景にある のが良好な協力関係の維持で、同社ではそれを極め ている。 「皮も金具類も、45年間同じ仕入先から仕 入れています。ほぼ全てトスカーナの企業です。プロ としてお互いを尊敬し合ってきたことが、関係を強固 なものにしてきました」とディ・フィリッポはいう。 「手 作りバックでも人間関係でも、しっかりした長持ちす るものを作るには努力が必要。それが当社の成功の 秘訣です。」 互いの利益になる関係を築こうと努めてきたイ ル ビゾンテは、45年にわたって協働者を大切にし 道義を貫いてきた。これは創業以来の美学について も言えることだ。 「イル ビゾンテをご愛顧いただいて いるのは、この何があっても変わらぬ美学があるか ら」というディ・フィリッポ。 「何を作るにしても、当ブ ランドならではのラインと昔ながらの素材を大事にし ています。」 バッファローのモチーフも、イル ビゾンテの歴 史を通して使われてきた。 「昔からバッファローが好 きでしてね。大きな動物でありながら同時に脆くて

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

イル ビゾンテはバッファローのロゴはもちろん、美し く作り込まれたオリジナルのレザー製品が特徴だ。 創業者ワニー・ディ・フィリッポが、このイタリアンブ ランドのサクセスストーリーをサリー・マキルホーン に語った。

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70: Scent From Italy イタリアの香り

PHOTO: COURTESY OF IL BISONTE

ローマ随一の調香師パオラ・ボッタイは、イタリア産 の伝統的原料を使って独自の香りを創り出してい る。その彼女が香りに対する積年の想い入れとイタ リアの香水が香りの未来だと思う理由を、ジョッシ ュ・シムズに語った。

無防備で純粋な姿に魅せられて、バッファローをあ しらった各種アイテムのコレクションを作り始めまし た。」このロゴはブランドの品質の証となり、通なら この印を見ればすぐイル ビゾンテとわかる。 ブランド発祥の地はフィレンツェだが、ローマに も2店舗を構え、強いつながりを持っている。 「ロー マは誰もが愛する街。私も大好きです。若々しくて巨 大で活気に満ちていますものね。」イル ビゾンテの ローマ店でもフィレンツェ店でも、2016/17年秋冬コ レクションの素晴らしいバッグの数々に出会えるはず だ。コニャック色の革製バッグは、伝統的なスタイル からちょっと変わった形まで幅広く取り揃える。さら に、買い物には大ぶりの黒トートバッグ、ロマンチッ クディナーならミニバケットスタイル、オフィスでのプ レゼンで決めたい時は書類ホルダー、街の散策には バックル付きサッチェル、週末のお出かけにはレザー とツイードのコンビバッグと、充実のラインアップだ。 「伝統的な牛革に、デッキチェアーに使われるストラ イプの布などちょっと変わった特殊素材を合わせて います。いろいろと研究し実験するのが好きで、当社 自慢の素材に野菜染めの牛革を加え、世界中で知ら れるようになりました。」 将来に関しては、イル ビゾンテは今後も必勝レ シピを守っていく考えだ。 「うちらしさをあくまでも追 求していきます。これまで45年間やってきたように実 直にね。当社製品は次の45年間も変わらず品質第一 主義。それは私が保証します。」他ならぬワニー・デ ィ・フィリッポが保証するというのだから、間違いな い。

パオラ・ボッタイは、フレグランスデザインの修 行は一生続くと思っている。 「香りというものに昔か ら情熱を抱いていた」というボッタイ。 「子供の頃、 『 とんでもなくひどい』臭いを嗅いだり本当に素敵な 香りを嗅いだりすると、それによって気分がガラリと 変わったものです。匂いは人間の記憶の奥底にある もので、それが怖くもあり魅力でもあります。」 ローマを拠点とするこの調香師が、南フランスに ある香水のメッカ、グラースでフレグランスデザイン の修行を終えたのはほんの5年前のこと。その後、香 水レーベルのカルトゥージア、自動車会社のミニ、零 細ながら評判の高いミラノの理容店ブルフロッグ、ワ イン会社のカンティーナ・トラミンなど、様々な企業と 仕事をしてきた。カンティーナ・トラミンとのプロジェ クトは、ワインの世界と香水の世界を結び付けた「と びきり素敵なコラボレーションだった」。 「履歴書を 送ったわけでも何でもないんです」と、この独立心旺 盛なデザイナーはいう。 「クライアントが私の作った フレグランスをどこかで嗅がれて、訪ねてきて下さっ たんです。まさに理想の姿ですよね。」 ボッタイの名を誇らしげに付けたプロジェクトで

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数多くの香水を発売してきたとはいえ、自分の代表 作といえるものはまだ創っていない。遠い将来に向 けて構想は練っているのだが。これは、彼女がマー ケティング先行の現代香水界に少し幻滅しているこ とも一因だという。そうした業界の有り様について は、もともと広告を勉強し、その後音楽業界で数年 勤務した経験から、ある程度知っている。フレグラン スの世界でも過剰宣伝が行われ、ファッショナブル であることに重点が置かれる傾向にげんなりしてい るのだ。 「ファッショナブルでも、胸が悪くなりそうな 匂いかもしれないじゃないですか。いくら『ファッシ ョナブルだから』って、そんなの身に付けます？」とボ ッタイは笑う。 「それから、最近はニッチな調香師も ブームになっていますけど、ブランドが現れては半年 もしないうちに消えていくことが多いんですよ。今じ ゃニッチフレグランスが多すぎて、もうニッチとは呼 べないくらい。 『ニッチ＝お高い』を意味するだけとい うのが現状です。また、 『ブルーローズ』とか摩訶不 思議な原料を使ったフレグランスも発売されていま す。ブルーローズって何それ？って感じ。」 ボッタイのフレグランスには、そんなもったいぶ った品はまずない。ベチバー、アンバー、パチュリ、ベ ルガモットといった古典的な原料を使い、飾らず現 代的に調香する彼女は、シンプルな香りで定評を得 ている。わざとらしく変わった原料を使ったフレグラ ンスは一切ない。 「私はレス・イズ・モアのアプローチ をとっています。私が作った香りを嗅いでいただけれ ば、何が入っているかがわかります。妙なものを入れ て使う人がびっくりするようなことはしたくないんで す。」

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ボッタイは特にメンズフレグランスで高い評価 を得ている。 「難しい市場なんですよね。男性はいつ も付けている香りに忠実な傾向がありますから。と はいえ、よく「マスキュリン」な香りとか「フェミニン」 な香りとか言いますけど、こうした区別は誤解を招く と思うんですよね。あるのはいい香りとよくない香り だけ。バラは伝統的にはフェミニンですが、愛や情 熱のシンボルというのが世界中どこでも同じかという とそうではありません。私はコントラストを活かすの が好きなので、男性にバラの香りっていうのも素敵 なんじゃないかと思うんです。」 おそらく、ボッタイのフレグランスの形容として最 もピッタリくるのは、 「いかにもイタリアン」だろう。首 都ローマにアトリエを構え、育ちはパリオリ地区とい う彼女の香水は、瓶もラベルもパッケージもイタリア 製。クライアント用にサンプルを準備する際に、それ らの独自デザインもセットで提案するというのも彼女 独特だ。原料も可能な限りイタリアの田園部に自生 するものを使う。それだけではない。ボッタイは、イタ リア香水業の抜本的な見直しに一役買いたいと意気 込んでいる。 「イタリアにはもちろん巨大なファッション産業 があって、 『メイド・イン・イタリア』のブランドはいろ んな意味で重要です。ただ、フレグランスといえば、 やっぱりフランスを真っ先に思い浮かべる人が多い のです。実はイタリアにも香りづくりの素晴らしい歴 史があり、そのことはフレグランスに詳しい人ならど なたでもご存じです。例えばフィレンツェ。ヴェニスも そうです。東洋から珍しい原料を西洋へ持ち込む貿 易の要所だったわけですからね。グラースが香りの

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都になったのも、カテリーナ・デ・メディチのおかげと いっていいくらいです。」 （フランス女王となったこの イタリア貴婦人は香り付き手袋を愛し、彼女がグラ ース製手袋を贈られたのを機にグラースの香水が人 気を博したといわれている。） ボッタイは駆け出しの頃にフレグランス業の大 手企業で働いた経験があるが、その時すぐに自分に は向いてないと確信したという。大企業にいれば名 前を売る機会はあっただろうが、表看板になるよりも 比較的無名な作り手でいたいと思っているのだ。と はいえ、イタリアのフレグランスと同様、ボッタイの名 声が今後高まるのは間違いない。 「とにかく香りが好 きなんです。それもアルコールベースの香水だけじゃ なくて、フェースクリームやボディウォッシュ、ホーム フレグランスから車のフレグランスまで、あらゆる形 のフレグランスを考えています。香りの世界はまだま だ奥が深いんですよ。」

104: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に

とっておきの香水店：トップ3 パオラ・ボッタイが、ローマでお気に入りの香水店を SHOP読者に教えてくれた。

1. オリジナル・トイレタリーズ （Original Toiletries） 「私が調香を担当した企業の一つ。メンズグルーミ ングの伝統ブランドを数多く取り扱っており、少数で すが女性用も選りすぐって置いています。」 Original Toiletries, Viale dei Colli Portuensi 530, 00151 Rome, +39 06 6579 5281, originaltoiletries.com

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に ある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に なります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。

1. お買い物 2. カンポマルツィオ70（Campomarzio70） 「ローマの中心、スペイン広場のすぐ近くにある本 物のニッチ香水店で、高級ブランドを取り扱っていま す。」 Campomarzio70, Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7739,

campomarzio70.it 3. プロフメリア・デ・アンジェリス・マルガーニ・ステ ファニア（Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania） 「パリオリ地区の小規模な香水店で、私の香りへの 情熱が育まれた所です。自宅から200メートル先に あったので、子供の頃はよくここへ行って宿題をした ものです。」

Profumeria De Angelis Malugani Stefania, Via Luigi Luciani 38, 00197 Rome, +39 06 321 8386

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ さい。

2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの 還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94を超えるお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数 料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承く ださい。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希 望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに 課されます。

122 | P RO D U C T S

HIGH CONTRAST Luxury Italian footwear brand Santoni has been creating shoe perfection since it was launched in 1975. Its autumn/winter 2016/17 collection includes this statement monochrome design, skilfully crafted from the finest white napa and black abrasivato leathers. Founder Andrea Santoni has handed the reins to his son Giuseppe, who is keeping the brand’s ethos of ‘luxury, design, perfection’ at its core.

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 104

Whether you’re completing a casual daytime look or are on the hunt for something with a smart, sophisticated edge, Santoni has every occasion covered. These shoes, which feature contrasting black lace detailing, rear piping and a sleek stiletto heel, are set to be this season’s must-have accessory. dw Santoni shoes, €585, Santoni, Piazza di Spagna 79, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2394, santonishoes.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

PHOTO: ROBERTO MAZZOLA

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