ROME | РИМ | 罗马 | ローマ
ROME Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2015
Page 52 FRIENDS OF THE EARTH: discover the eco-friendly face of Italian fashion
Montblanc Star Classique and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a ďŹ ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com
Boutique Montblanc
Via Condotti 70
VIA CONDOTTI 49/50 SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM
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Welcome to Rome Maybe you’re already familiar with Rome, or perhaps it’s the frst time you’ve visited this architecturally stunning historic city. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover the eco-friendly face of Italian fashion on page 52, read about artisanal yet forward-looking Roman brand Fendi on page 64, and we explore the infuence of the 1960 flm Plein Soleil on Italian style today on page 72. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Rome. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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LIBERA DI REINVENTARSI RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY Scopri la collezione di orologi gioiello Jaeger-LeCoultre sul sito ladies.jaeger-lecoultre.com
Boutique: Firenze Milano Roma Venezia Per informazioni: +39 02 36042 833
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CONTRIBUTORS
PHOTO: DORCAS BROWN
ILLUSTRATION: PIETARI POSTI
Pietari Posti Barcelona-based Pietari Posti, a long-time SHOP illustrator, created this season’s SHOP Rome cover. Inspired by our feature on page 52 about the environmentally conscious Italian fashion brands which are working towards more sustainable production, it shows a woman in a billowing dress made up of rolling hills and felds, with the Rome skyline in the background. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Harriet Quick Fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and British Vogue, where she was the title’s fashion features director for over a decade, and has interviewed some of the fashion world’s biggest stars. globalblue.com
Caterina Mazzolai Caterina Mazzolai is SHOP’s production editor. She moved from Italy to the UK after graduating in modern languages in Pisa. She holds an MA in publishing from the London College of Communication.
Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh
Cover illustrator Pietari Posti
Online production assistant Marina Nelson
Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Harriet Quick, Josh Sims
Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang
Production editor Caterina Mazzolai
Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou
Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard
Chinese contributing editor Qingya He
Features editor Verity Hogan
Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu
City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles
Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
Fashion editor Ximena Daneri
Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok
News editor Hannah Lewis
Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova
Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold
Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews
Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy
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Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet
Creative editor/Deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy
Chief Executive Officer David Baxby
Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia
Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice
Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini
SHOP is published by Global Blue
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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
MILLA + ART.365 THE SEASONLESS WARDROBE MARELLA.COM ROMA via Frattina 129/131 via Appia Nuova 7/11 via del Corso 89/90 c.c. Euroma 2
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CONTENTS
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P ROD U C T S 26 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Rome this season 28 My Favourites Womenswear designer Giulia Collina reveals her top tips for spring/summer 2015 30 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 40 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Rome 42 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products Above: fabric swatches at Miroglio’s textile plant in Govone
F E AT U R E S 52 Cover Story: Sustainable Style Italy’s fashion industry is becoming increasingly eco-friendly, says Sally McIlhone 64 In Focus: Fendi A fashion house with personality, Fendi combines artisanal craftsmanship with contemporary innovation, writes Harriet Quick 72 Forever Cool The artistically dishevelled elegance that pervades the 1960 flm Plein Soleil still infuences the Italian sense of style today, reports Josh Sims
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CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 80 Cold Comfort Rome’s gelaterias mix artisanal techniques with cutting-edge favour combinations, making an ice cream experience to savour, as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers GU I DE 84 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights 112 My Neighbourhood Fashion designer Fabio Quaranta takes SHOP on a tour of Rome’s Monti and Esquilino districts
ESSENTI A LS 114 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 116 Русский Перевод 126 美文翻译 131 日本語翻訳 SOU V E N I R 138 The essential item to bring home
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calvinklein.com Roma
Via Cola di Rienzo 151-153 Galleria alberto Sordi
ROMA
| Via del Babuino 20 | Tel. +39 06 326.512.56 | Via Cola di Rienzo 266 | Tel. +39 06 688.079.02 | Via del Corso c/o Gall. A. Sordi 27/28 | Tel. +39 06 692.020.79 | Via Appia Nuova 168/170 | Tel. +39 06 772.044.66
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CHECK OUT
ITALY MEETS INDIA Italian fashion house Miu Miu has added a new design to its covetable handbag collection. The style is named Madras, referring to the specialist leather the bags are crafted from, which is sourced in southeast India and renowned for its beautiful grain. Practical in design yet playful in appearance, the bags come in a range of colours, with single and two-tone options fnished with simple and sleek gold-toned hardware. Making functionality a high priority, the soft calf suede-lined interior Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
features multiple pockets, while the exterior features a shoulder strap, top handles and a concealed pouch in the back of the bag with holders for a mobile phone and credit card. A style smart enough for the ofce and fun enough for the weekend, this yellow and clay edition makes a cheerful statement and a clever purchase for women looking to combine functional ease with fashion fair. gl Miu Miu Madras handbag, â‚Ź1,300, Miu Miu, Via del Babuino 91, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 4884, miumiu.com * for map go to page 90
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MY FAVOURITES: Giulia Collina Giulia Collina, born in Rome, grew up in a fashionable family – her father and aunt both worked for major brands and her mother was a model. After studying at the Istituto Superiore per le Industrie Artistiche (Higher Institute for Artistic Industries) in Rome, Collina established Tags in 2009. Since then, the brand has been spotted by Vogue Italia and Collina is set to make waves with her latest collection. Theresa Harold gets the lowdown on the designer’s top picks from her home city tagsroma.com
1. ‘I always follow the Chanel womenswear prêt-à-porter with particular interest’
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Chanel, Piazza di Spagna 85, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6976 9999, chanel.com
2. ‘When it comes to technology, I like Apple products’
3. ‘My favourite place to eat in Rome is the organic pizzeria Emma in the city centre, in the Campo de’ Fiori area’ Emma, Via Monte della Farina 28/29, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6476 0475, emmapizzeria.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
PHOTO: (PROFILE) ALESSANDRO GALLARELLO; (1) © GORUNWAY.COM
Apple Watch, price on request, Apple Store, Galleria Porta di Roma, Via Alberto Lionello 201, 00139 Rome, +39 06 8720 8501, apple.com
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4. ‘Lately I have been using the Kedu fragrance by Memo Paris’ Memo Paris Kedu perfume, 75ml, €168, Campomarzio70, Via Vittoria 52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7739, memofragrances.com
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5. ‘I often use natural products and one of the brands that I buy more often is Aesop, both for hair and skin care’ Aesop Elemental Facial Barrier Cream, 60ml, €45, Olfattorio Bar à Parfums Roma, Via di Ripetta 34, 00186 Rome, +39 06 361 2325, aesop.com
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CASUAL COOL
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Choose summer classics highlighted with silver and blue, and add a splash of summery palm-tree print
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3. Mondelliani sunglasses, €195, Mondelliani, Via dei Bergamaschi 49, 00186 Rome, +39 06 679 3481, mondelliani.it
2. A Testoni calf leather suitcase, €2,505, A Testoni, Via dei Condotti 80, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 8944, testoni.com
4. Diesel Jogg Jeans, €370, Diesel, Piazza di Spagna 18, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6817, diesel.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
5. Boss Manfredy bag, £725, Boss, Via Frattina 136-138, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6173, hugoboss.com PHOTO: (4) MARCO TONNI
1. Ermanno Scervino shoes, price on request, Ermanno Scervino, Via del Babuino 97, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3173, ermannoscervino.it
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6. Benetton T-shirt, €19.95, Benetton, Stazione Termini, Via Giovanni Giolitti 9, 00185 Rome, +39 06 4620 2511, benetton.com
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7. Hermès watch, €3,400, Hermès, Via di Campo Marzio 9A, 00186 Rome, +39 06 679 3249, hermes.com
8. Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H2 headphones, €199, Bang & Olufsen, Via Cristoforo Colombo 193A-B, 00147 Rome, +39 06 511 5339, beoplay.com
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JOYOUS JEWELS Celebrate summer with sparkling creations in rainbow colours
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1. Chopard Imperiale ring, €6,160, Chopard, Via del Babuino 22, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 3741, chopard.com
3. Marco Bicego Murano glass bracelet, €10,420, Marcello Angeletti, Via dei Condotti 11A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3700, marcobicego.com
2. Harry Winston yellow diamond solitaire ring, price on request, Harry Winston, Via dei Condotti 61A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4521 1400, harrywinston.com
4. Damiani Battito d’Ali ring, €3,490, Damiani, Via dei Condotti 84, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 0477, damiani.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
5. Pomellato Bahia ring in rose gold with London blue topaz and pink sapphires, €7,850, Pomellato, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 38, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 9790, pomellato.com
PHOTO: (2) DYLAN GRIFFIN
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PIAZZA COLONNA 40/41 - VIA COLA DI RIENZO 155 - VIA FRATTINA 42/43 SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM
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SHEER GENIUS
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Enhance a delicate chifon dress with statement jewellery and silver stilettos
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1. Jimmy Choo Feign shoes, €675, Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2667, jimmychoo.com
3. Delfna Delettrez Never Too Light ring, €1,680, Delfna Delettrez, Via del Governo Vecchio 66-67, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 6362, delfnadelettrez.com
2. Salvatore Ferragamo bracelet, €280, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via dei Condotti 73-74, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1565, ferragamo.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
4. Burberry Prorsum dress, €1,795, Burberry, Via dei Condotti 59-61, 00187 Rome, +39 06 675 0101, burberry.com
PHOTOS: (1) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; (3) DELETTREZ
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RO M A | v ia F r at tin a, 47 /4 9 - P h + 39 06 699 21 305
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PLAYFUL PRINTS
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2. Marella Fabia T-shirt, €99, Marella, Via Frattina 129-131, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3800, marella.com
4. Swarovski Stardust necklace, €99, Swarovski, Via dei Condotti/Largo Goldoni 48, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 1615, swarovski.com 5. Pinko trousers, €185, Pinko, Via dei Due Macelli 92-96, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 2091, pinko.it
3. Dolce & Gabbana Sofa watch, €5,450, Dolce & Gabbana, Via dei Condotti 51-52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 4999, dolcegabbana.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
PHOTO: (5) CFC@EMAIL.IT/TOMMASO VECCHI
1. Paloma Picasso for Tifany Sugar Stacks 18-carat gold ring with diamonds, €5,450, Tifany & Co, Via del Babuino 118, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0717, tifany.com
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STATEMENT STYLE Bold apparel in red and black demonstrates self-assurance
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1. Loewe scarf, €295, Loewe, Piazza di Spagna 70-71, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.com
3. Massimo Dutti shirt, €49.95, Massimo Dutti, Galleria Alberto Sordi, Piazza Colonna, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1179, massimodutti.com
2. Victorinox Inox watch, €399, Menichini Gioiellieri, Piazza di Spagna 1, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1403, victorinox.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
4. Car Shoe canapa driving shoes, €260, Car Shoe, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 5, 00187 Rome, +39 06 8938 5111, carshoe.com
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SHOP WINDOW
RELAX WITH GLOBAL BLUE If you’re travelling from Rome to Milan to visit the international Expo, be sure to visit Global Blue’s new Lounge, which awaits you on Via della Spiga in the heart of the city’s fashion district. In this prestigious location, we ofer a calm space where you can relax during a day of activities, surrounded by the fagships of the biggest names in fashion, in Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
an exclusive environment with attentive and professional staf. Pop into the GB Lounge and take a break, read a newspaper, enjoy some much-needed refreshment or use our Wi-Fi. During your visit, be sure to look into our many services designed to make your stay in Milan as comfortable and personalised as possible – ask us about our delivery service, concierge and refund ofces. We’ll see you there! hl Global Blue Lounge, Via della Spiga 26, 20121 Milan, globalblue.com
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WATCH THIS SPACE Founded in 1794 as Orologeria Ricci, Hausmann is one of the oldest purveryors of fne watches in the world. The original workshop approached watchmaking as a craft and soon built a strong reputation. By the time it took the name Hausmann the frm already had strong relationships with some of Switzerland’s premier horological houses, choosing only the best timepieces to present in its Rome boutique. Committed to the twin ideals of respect for tradition and commitment to innovation, Hausmann remains one of the top watch stores in the city. In the store on Via del Babuino visitors can be sure of excellent service, available in Italian, English, Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese. mkh Hausmann & Co, Via del Babuino 63, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3211 0100, hausmann-co.com * for map go to page 90
SCENT OF SUCCESS Those with a penchant for fne fragrance should be sure to visit the recently opened Haute Parfumerie boutique, the frst store to bring together the eponymous line of fragrances from Antonio Visconti and also his Royal Crown line, two perfume houses committed to exclusivity, excellence and refnement. Visconti’s scents are made using only natural materials, with sought-after, rare ingredients in every bottle. Look out for the Royal Crown Black Bay special edition, designed to evoke the spirit of adventures on the sea. Rose, oud, sandalwood and vetiver combine in harmony, presented in a stunning black crystal bottle with 1,000 crystals applied by hand to each cap. Visconti’s aim is to take exclusivity to the next level, and that’s exactly what you will fnd at Haute Parfumerie. hl Luxury Perfumes, Via delle Carrozze 67, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 1669, antoniovisconti.com, royal-crown.it * for map go to page 96 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
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EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN Massimo Noli and Nicola Frau are the designers behind Italian label Quattromani. The pair met while studying at the Accademia di Moda e Design in Cagliari and served an internship together at Les Copains. Now they split their time between Cagliari and Rome, designing collections that are at once highconcept and wearable. Perhaps it’s the infuence of their favourite designers (Rick Owens, Prada and Maison Martin Margiela) that has helped them strike such a tricky balance. One thing’s for sure, the spirit of experimentation is at the core of the brand – whether that’s using a 3D printer, or mixing natural materials such as silk with high-tech man-made fabrics. th Super, Via Leonina 42, 00184 Rome, +39 06 9826 6450, quattromanifashionproject.blogspot.co.uk
STORY TELLER
PHOTO: MARLENE MAUTNER
The motto of Vienna-based designer Ina Kent’s eponymous label is ‘Bags tell stories’. Kent’s minimal designs are crafted using sparingly processed hides, giving them a distinctive appearance and feel. For spring/ summer 2015, Kent has created a chic line of accessories including iPhone cases, belts and tote bags in shades of brown, grey and plum. th Latrofa 1959, Via Francesco Saverio Sprovieri 7, 00152 Rome, +39 06 581 2102, inakent.com
globalblue.com
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MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE 2015 is an important anniversary for Gherardini, as the historic Italian fashion house celebrates 130 years since its founding. To mark the occasion, Gherardini’s designers have created a new limited edition of one of its best-known handbags, the classic Piattina. The design is a clever piece of trompe l’oeil. What appears as a brightly coloured bag on a neutral background is in fact a tote bag that features an illustration of two of Gherardini’s other famous bags, the Bellina (pictured) and the Dodicidodici. The boldly printed illustrations stand out as if in 3D on the monogrammed millerighe fabric, making these creations almost as good as two bags in one. mkh
CREATIVE DIRECTION When Hedi Slimane took over at YSL in 2012, there were a lot of changes. The name was just one element that he altered; under the pared-back title of Saint Laurent the label has seen a thorough overhaul, its stores being one of the most visual examples of this progress. A physical embodiment of the house under Slimane, the new store concept has been rolled out internationally to great success, with the boutique in Rome being one of the most recent to feel the efect. The design of the store is a modernist interpretation of French art deco Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
Gherardini, Via Belsiana 48, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 5501, gherardini.it * for map go to page 95
techniques and materials. Predominantly monochrome, the space is decked in black and white matt fnish marbles, brilliant mirrors and clear glass, with details in brass, concrete and quilted black leather. Home to the full men’s and women’s collections, the store is furnished with antique pieces specifcally chosen to suit the city of Rome, so that each store is subtly unique while still conforming to Slimane’s powerful vision. hl Saint Laurent, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 17, 00186 Rome, +39 06 678 1346, ysl.com * for map go to page 104
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VIVA VALENTINO Having visited New York and Paris, Valentino’s travelling couture show lands back in its hometown in July 2015. The Italian label, much loved by Hollywood and the fashion world alike, keeps an atelier in Rome where couture pieces are still embroidered and pleated by hand. Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have timed the showing of their couture collection to coincide with another Valentino fagship store opening in Rome. This hectic schedule means that the duo will produce four collections in two months – a spring/summer couture collection, a pre-fall ready-to-wear and a menswear show. For its spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear collection, Valentino outdid itself with a grand total of 79 looks – proof that sometimes more is more. th Valentino, Via dei Condotti 15, 00187 Rome, +39 06 673 9420, valentino.com * for map go to page 96
MAXIMUM IMPACT Launched in autumn/winter 2014, the Max Mara Tailored Suit Project is a highly technical collection featuring hand-sewn jackets that are particularly perfect for the modern businesswoman. Inspired by traditional masculine tailoring, each jacket takes 345 minutes to make – twice as long as a standard jacket. The diferent jackets complement the diferent facets of a woman’s life: the doublebreasted blazer, the smoking jacket in two lengths, and a lightweight jacket made from 100% wool. Choose from a classic palette of blue, black, grey or beige with styles in pinstripe and grisaille fabrics. The beauty of this collection is that it radiates professionalism without ever masking the wearer’s femininity. th Max Mara, Via dei Condotti 17-19, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2104, maxmara.com * for map go to page 96 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
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INDIAN SUMMER This season’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection has been inspired by the luxurious palaces and resorts of India at the beginning of the 20th century, following a trip to the country by the label’s menswear style director Kim Jones. Silhouettes refect those of 1930s military clothing, while the collection is set in hues of dusky oranges and khaki with bursts of hot pink contrasting with deep navy. Impressive details, including intricately engraved mirror plating, embossed buttons, and cotton and silk Airtex jacket linings, are the result of Jones’s extensive fabric research and mark this season’s menswear collection as one of Louis Vuitton’s best crafted to date. rp Louis Vuitton, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 41, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 9520, louisvuitton.com * for map go to page 104
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
URBAN STYLE
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
First launched in 2004, the TimeWalker collection by Montblanc soon became one of the brand’s most popular watches, the sporty elegance and strong masculinity of the style gaining a wide fan base. The Urban Speed timepiece, one of the latest additions to the TimeWalker family, embodies the trademark Montblanc ideal of fusing Swiss watchmaking traditions with innovation and contemporary style. Technologically advanced, the timepiece is nonetheless simple and classic, made with the fnest materials in black with highlights of silvery grey and crisp white, fnished with fashes of scarlet. The watch encases the automatic mechanical Calibre MB 25.07, so you can be just as sure of the Urban Speed’s reliability and precision as of its unfailing style. hl Montblanc, Via dei Condotti 70, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1894, montblanc.com * for map go to page 96
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A TRUE TASTE OF ITALY Anyone looking to explore Italian food should pay a visit to Eataly’s Rome fagship, a 17,000-square-metre space that is home to more than 14,000 high-quality food and wine products, 23 restaurants, 40 learning areas and eight classrooms which host lessons and courses in Italian food culture. Nowhere else in the city will you fnd such a delicious ofering; eat pasta, pizza, fsh, meat, vegetables, salami, cheese and more, stop for a birra (beer) or sample a delicious gelato (ice cream). Look out for master cheesemaker Roberto Battaglia making fresh mozzarella. A visit to the top foor reveals Spazio, a restaurant-cum-laboratory where chefs both established and up-and-coming add their own spin to traditional Italian dishes. This is a must-see attraction for anyone who likes to explore culture through food. hl Eataly, Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492, 00154 Rome, +39 06 9027 9201, eataly.net
ROME GROWN Roman-born Chiara Baschieri graduated from the city’s Accademia di Costume e di Moda in 2008. Since then, she has worked for Italian fashion house Blumarine, where she gained valuable experience before launching her own label in 2010. Her eponymous brand takes a contemporary approach to tailoring and fabric experimentation, resulting in an instantly recognisable style. Integral to the brand is the fact that the entire collection is made in Italy – a hallmark of quality if ever there was one. Chiara Baschieri is currently stocked in Japan, America, Ireland, Saudi Arabia and, of course, Italy. In September 2014, Baschieri opened her frst standalone store in the heart of Rome, cementing her status as a designer on the rise. th Chiara Baschieri, Vicolo Orto di Napoli 7, 00187 Rome, +39 0333 636 4851, chiarabaschieri.it * for map go to page 90 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
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PHOTO: ZENO COLANTONI
WELCOME HOME
PROJECT RUNWAY Project149 was launched in 2013 by Elisa Vigilante and Monica Mignone and, right from the start, their unique designs generated the type of interest most fedgling brands can only dream of. In 2013, Project149 was featured in Vogue Italia’s New Talent section and the following year Vigilante and Mignone were fnalists in the Who Is On Next? competition, which scouts up-andcoming designers. Since then, the Cremonabased company has built a solid reputation for feminine and sophisticated pieces. Its spring/summer 2015 collection is inspired by the natural world, with a lush palette of lilac, mint and crimson. th Surplustore, Via Flaminia Vecchia 477-481, 00191 Rome, +39 06 3322 5131, project149.com globalblue.com
The Eternal City has added another jewel to its crown with the inauguration of Bulgari’s Domus space in its Via dei Condotti store. The name is derived from the Latin for home, and Domus’s rooms are both warm and glamorous. Visitors are invited to admire Bulgari’s Heritage Collection, comprised of 600 unique pieces, in the exhibition gallery, or simply soak up the brand’s history and art in the seating area. As well as being a permanent home for the Heritage Collection, the Domus space will be the setting for cultural events, performances and private art exhibitions. In keeping with the brand’s impressive history of Italian craftsmanship, this space celebrates the pivotal role Rome has played in inspiring its creations. Accessible by appointment only, this exclusive space is sure to become a frm favourite with Bulgari afcionados. th Bulgari, Via dei Condotti 10, 00187 Rome, +39 06 696261, bulgari.com * for map go to page 96
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SUSTAINABLE STYLE From signing up to Greenpeace initiatives to working with sustainable fabric producers, Italy’s fashion industry is becoming increasingly eco-friendly, says Sally McIlhone
In recent years, the international fashion industry has increasingly started to embrace eco-friendly processes, fabrics and attitudes. The goal of today’s fashion connoisseur is not to own a vast wardrobe of disposable garments, but a well-constructed collection of timeless pieces made using sustainable methods. Sustainability has been recognised as a key issue for both the Italian food and fashion industries, so much so that it is one of the main themes of Expo Milano 2015, which takes place in Milan between May and October. 116 / 131
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With the world’s population increasing year on year, establishing sustainable food production methods is an issue of vital importance. Italian deli chain Eataly works with the country’s farmers, cheesemakers and butchers to ensure it stocks the fnest ingredients available, and also tries to minimise its impact on the environment. Eataly is just one of a host of Italian food companies seeking ways to be more sustainable. The Italian fashion industry is following suit, backing sustainable production methods, committing Lef: a mood board at Miroglio’s textile plant in Alba
to Greenpeace initiatives and launching ecofriendly capsule collections. Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2014 saw Italy’s Ministry of the Environment present a programme that highlighted the fashion industry’s eco footprint. The Ministry, working alongside Connect4Climate, aims to reduce the carbon and water output of more than 200 companies by identifying carbon management practices and supporting low-carbon technology in clothing production. ‘The Italian fashion system is committed to combining the quality of its products with a deep concern for sustainability,’ says Corrado Clini, former director general of the Ministry of the Environment. ‘This means not only adopting strategies and production processes that have a minimal environmental impact, but also – perhaps more importantly – searching for new materials and innovative solutions that enhance the competitiveness of our fashion industry and consolidate its international excellence.’ A number of Italian fashion labels have demonstrated their commitment to combining quality and sustainability in recent years. Alberta Ferretti teamed up with British actress
PHOTO: ANDREA ERDNA BARLETTA
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Emma Watson to produce a sustainable fvepiece capsule collection called Pure Threads in 2011. Gucci launched its Sustainable Soles footwear range in May 2012 and Diesel collaborated with Edun on a denim collection for spring/summer 2013; founded by Bono and his wife Ali Hewson, the Edun label aims to create positive change through its trading relationship with Africa.
Above (from top): Miroglio textile plant in Alba; Milano Unica textile fair
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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In addition, brands including Valentino and Benetton have signed up to Greenpeace’s Detox campaign, which challenges elite clothing labels to eliminate releases of hazardous chemicals into the world’s water supply. The commitment on Italy’s part extends beyond its largest designer and highstreet brands to the fabric manufacturers who supply their materials. The Miroglio Group produces fabrics for the likes of Motivi and Elena Mirò and is committed to sustainability. ‘In recent years the Miroglio Group has made important investments in next-generation printing technologies in order to ensure environmental sustainability at the Miroglio
The Italian brands embracing sustainable values range from elite designers and high-street names to fabric manufacturers
Above: Valentino (pictured lef) and Beneton (right) have both signed up to Greenpeace’s Detox campaign
Textile plants in Govone and Alba,’ says group chairman Giuseppe Miroglio. ‘This has led to notable reductions in water and energy consumption and CO2 emissions. As such, we have already begun this process and we plan to continue to pursue this philosophy in a serious and responsible manner.’ Milano Unica, Italy’s international textile fair, has become increasingly concerned with exhibiting fabrics from sustainable textile companies in the last fve years. One such producer is Canepa, which uses an innovative process of textile fnishing. ‘This process is based on a biopolymer called kitosan, the result of the recycling of the shrimp shell,’ explains Alfonso Saibene Canepa, head of the brand’s sustainability programme. ‘It is sustainable because the energy and water consumed thanks to this substance is 40% less than in the traditional textile process.’ Aurora Magni, a consultant to Milano Unica, points out that Italian and European mills are subject to strict rules regarding environmental responsibility. ‘Yet, important as this might be, it is no longer enough,’ says Magni. ‘Fashion brands and retailers
PHOTO: © STUDIOFRANCESCHIN
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Greenpeace’s Detox campaign ensures fashion brands prioritise sustainability
Above (from top): fabric swatches at Miroglio’s textile plant in Govone; Miroglio group chairman Giuseppe Miroglio
PHOTO: DAVIDE SALA © 2014
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are increasingly demanding with suppliers, requesting specifc guarantees that certain chemical components are totally avoided during the production process.’ Greenpeace’s Detox campaign holds fashion brands to account, ensuring they work with the most eco-friendly producers to ensure various sustainable standards are met. Milano Unica helps to connect brands with these ethical suppliers. ‘We have chosen the much-appreciated technical catalogue as the tool capable of emphasising the green features of the textile and accessory mills,’ says Massimo Mosiello, Milano Unica’s general manager. ‘In order to be listed in the catalogue,
Sustainability is worthwhile when garments stocked in Rome’s leading boutiques are helping to protect the planet
Above (clockwise from lef): Canepa factory; Milano Unica textile fair; Canepa spring/summer 2015
PHOTO: DAVIDE SALA © 2014
PHOTO: ANDREA ERDNA BARLETTA
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companies must provide factual information and documents. Our aim is to guarantee clients that any information on fabrics and accessories is real and trustworthy in order to make identifcation easier.’ Committing to sustainability places additional pressures on brands, but is surely worthwhile if it means that garments stocked in Rome’s leading boutiques are helping to protect the planet. ‘Many companies have understood the competitive advantage of being renowned as ethical and responsible,’ Magni concludes. ‘Being an ethical company is far from easy but the market is willing to acknowledge and reward such eforts.’
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A fashion house with personality, Fendi combines artisanal craftsmanship with contemporary innovation, says Harriet Quick
FENDI IN FOCUS:
Exotic fora and fauna have been associated with classic femininity since women were frst depicted in art. Fendi neatly updated that trope in its spring/summer 2015 collection. Cara Delevingne opened the show in an A-line dress covered with a blue, pink and white orchid motif, her hair held back with a long leather leaf that bounced jauntily on her shoulders 122 / 133
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like a tribal talisman. She was carrying the new miniature version of Fendi’s bestselling Peekaboo bag. Like many luxury fashion houses, Fendi’s roots are in luggage and saddle-making. Its frst store, a small atelier, was founded in Rome in 1925 by married couple Adele and Edoardo Fendi. This was a period of Lef: Cara Delevingne showcases Fendi’s spring/summer 2015 collection
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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great artistic discovery and architectural experimentation and the company prided itself on its artisanship, forward-thinking design and beautifully crafted leather goods that seduced and charmed with their ebullience and innovation, emphasised by the house colour – a vivid yellow. The couple’s fve daughters joined the business shortly afterwards and helped the brand grow into a fashion powerhouse, employing Karl Lagerfeld, still Fendi’s creative director, in the late 1960s. The techniques and crafts used at Fendi are now so advanced it is often difcult to see how garments that are so intricate and delicate in their construction hold together. The shift worn by Cara Delevingne features thin slashes that reveal an under-layer of tulle creating an articulated ‘armour’. There are party dresses Above (from top): Fendi feathered dresses, spring/summer 2015; the brand’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
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made of layers of sky blue or sugar pink feathers fastened at the waist with plaited belts and lacquered leathers lacerated at the torso to create a malleable ‘cage’. Elsewhere, leather vests feature handpainted motifs inspired by Giorgio de Chirico’s metaphysical paintings. Fendi, now majority-owned by LVMH, holds a pivotal position in the modern luxury landscape. The house, which celebrates its 90th anniversary in 2015, has recently moved into a newly restored landmark building – the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. The striking 1940s building, its facades composed of stacked arches, is a triumph of architecture, housing the design studios, ofces, archives and team of 400 staf. It will serve as an archival showcase for Fendi’s design history Above (clockwise from top lef): two looks from Fendi; the brand’s Baguete bag, all spring/summer 2015
and the many iconic designs the brand has developed over the years. The Baguette bag is one such design, the piece that launched the appetite for so-called ‘It’ bags back in 1997. ‘I was asked, among other things, to come up with a particularly easy and functional handbag. In a certain sense, it had to be technological and minimal, just like the times,’ says Silvia Venturini Fendi, the creative director of accessories and granddaughter of Adele Fendi. ‘My response – fortunately I am indomitably disobedient – was the Baguette: the exact opposite of what had been requested of me. It was an unprecedented success; one of the most desired objects in the world.’ Using the inventive My Baguette app you can now even choose your own embellishments and colours. The Selleria line, launched in 1938, boasts contrast stitching on supple, grainy Romano leather while Fendi’s adorable Bag Bugs, crafted from furs and leather, resemble small Above (clockwise from top lef): Fendi Karlito bag charm and Baguete bag; miniature Peekaboo bag with Bag Bug charm, Fan di Fendi eau de parfum; leather vest with hand-painted motifs, all fashion items spring/summer 2015
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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animals and cartoon characters, including one of Karl Lagerfeld himself. The Bag Bugs have achieved cult-like status in the fashion world and are owned by a host of style pin-ups, from Vogue Japan’s Anna Dello Russo to Solange Knowles, who carry and treasure them like pets. ‘The inspiration came when I was on a trip to Brazil and saw amazing tropical birds, each with beautifully colourful feathers and plumes,’ says Venturini Fendi. The Fendi world also includes handcrafted furniture, perfume – the bestseller is simply called Fan di Fendi – watches and characterful sunglasses. Artisanship clearly runs in the family: Silvia Venturini Fendi’s daughter Delfna Delettrez also has her own line of bold, surrealist jewellery. What Fendi has in spades is character and a sense of humour – a rare quality in the serious world of luxury. Enter the Fendi universe and you are guaranteed to come out smiling fendi.com
Fendi has both character and a strong sense of humour
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FOREVER The artistically dishevelled elegance that pervades the 1960 flm Plein Soleil still infuences the Italian sense of style today, says Josh Sims
With its themes of fashion and deception, French thriller Plein Soleil is regarded as one of the most stylish flms of the 1960s. The plot follows the impoverished Tom Ripley as he befriends the wealthy Philippe Greenleaf and sets about stealing his identity amid the glamour of the Italian coast. The flm is known for its strong aesthetic; picture-postcard Italian vistas, luxury yachts, piazza cafés and bachelor apartments share the spotlight with the undeniable stars of the flm, Ripley’s and Greenleaf’s wardrobes. It’s what its stars wear that has made it one of the most stylish movies ever and, as it reaches its 55th anniversary, its infuence on the Italian sense of style is still evident today. The flm’s yachting scenes ofer a rolling catwalk of polo and foral short-sleeved shirts, and loose linen shirts worn artfully half-tucked and always unbuttoned to at least mid-chest, as though, frankly, one just couldn’t be bothered to do them up any further. Of-white jeans with suede snafe-bit loafers and rolled khakis with espadrilles epitomise coastal chic, while shantung silk suits in muted tones of grey, pale cream or blue complement the scenes staged in Rome. Dark suits are teamed with white loafers in a way that would make an expert in fashion etiquette blush, and socks are never seen. A striped boating blazer, set of 124 / 136
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Above: Alain Delon’s unbutoned shirts, worn in French thriller Plein Soleil, epitomise coastal chic
PHOTO: SNAP STILLS/REX
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COOL
monogrammed shirts and selection of rep ties complete Greenleaf’s jet-setting attire. One extended scene, in which Ripley wanders around a street market, could have been taken straight from the catwalk, with Ripley as played by Alain Delon appearing to be part male model, part maniac. Delon even strikes a somewhat clichéd pose, shirtsleeves rolled and a blazer slung over his shoulder. Style often appears to trump substance; rather than a much-anticipated arrest scene, the flm’s fnal image is of Ripley, cool in his trunks and chunky cardigan, strolling along the beach. One of the underlying themes of the flm is the way clothing can be used as costume, and not just worn by actors portraying a part; the characters themselves also wear costumes in order to become other people. In one scene, for example, Greenleaf catches Ripley trying on some of his clothes, eerily foreshadowing subsequent events. Even so, despite the flm’s use of clothing as artifce, it has been cited by various commentators from the likes of GQ, Studio Canal and H&M Life as providing the foundations for an entire way of dressing. Above (from top): the Plein Soleil flm is a rolling catwalk of polo foral shirts; suits in muted tones of grey feature in Giorgio Armani’s spring/summer 2015 collection
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
PHOTO: SNAP STILLS/REX
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PHOTO: SNAP STILLS/REX
The clothing worn in Plein Soleil echoes the colours of the Italian landscape
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
And it’s a style that remains relevant more than half a century on. ‘There’s a whole new generation following its cues to dress in a more overtly prosperous way, to look sharp again even when dressed very casually,’ argues British tailor and designer Timothy Everest, who worked on costumes for the 1999 remake, The Talented Mr Ripley. ‘It’s the playboy style: classic but worn in such a relaxed way that it suggests money and the confdence not to care much about how you look, while all the while actually putting a lot of efort into it.’ The look is essentially a distillation of attire favoured by the wealthy, sun-kissed gadabout of the early 1960s, those with endless income
Above (from top): polo shirts, seen here at Brioni’s spring/summer 2015 show, were a favourite of Mr Ripley’s; Plein Soleil’s yachting scenes showcase simple but striking nautical style
ROMA Via del Corso 122/125 - T.+39 06 69923930 Via Cola Di Rienzo 245/249 - T.+39 06 3218479 Viale Europa 70/72/74 - T.+39 06 59290380 Galleria Commerciale Porta di Roma - T.+39 06 87074331
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PHOTO: SNAP STILLS/REX
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
and leisure time who were able to see the world as a playground. Modern Italian fashion often references this artfully relaxed style, avoiding loud patterns and incorporating luxurious fabrics into looks that have been put together in a carefully dishevelled way. The clothing worn by both Ripley and Greenleaf also echoed the Italian landscape. Shades of washed-out white are worn against the aged wood of the quay or the stonework of an ancient piece of architecture, shades of blue set against the vibrant Mediterranean Sea, and pale pink refected in the canvas sails of Greenleaf’s yacht. Although Delon didn’t dress himself in Plein Soleil – that was the work of costume designer Bella Clément – efortless chic became something the actor could sell throughout his life: in 1978 he launched a successful fragrance, followed by clothing and accessories lines. Even so, the flm that made him famous uses clothes on a much deeper level: to codify character – displaying diferences in class, education and lifestyle – and to suggest how interchangeable
these diferences are to the world at large after a simple change of clothing. When Greenleaf admonishes Ripley by saying, ‘No, you can’t come aboard [my yacht] in those shoes,’ it’s not quite clear whether it’s their suitability for wearing on deck that is in doubt or their suitability to be worn anywhere. The question is never answered. Style obsessives have been worrying about it ever since
The stars of Plein Soleil were not only the actors but also their wardrobes
Above (from top): the infuence of yachting style is evident in Salvatore Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2015 collection; Plein Soleil is regarded as one of the most stylish flms of the 1960s
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COLD COMFORT Rome’s outstanding gelaterias mix artisanal techniques with cuttingedge favour combinations, making an ice cream experience to savour, as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers
While it’s difcult to have a bad gelato when in Rome, a select few of the city’s multitude of gelaterias take the art of ice cream to a whole new level. Although the frst versions of ice cream are believed to date back to ancient Rome and Egypt, ice cream only became popular in Italy in the 1920s, thanks to the creation of the country’s frst ice cream cart. Italians are rightly proud of the fact that around half of the country’s ice cream makers are artisanal producers who create the dessert by hand. Visitors to Rome will notice a focus on a painstakingly handmade approach, using only the best quality ingredients. A prime example of this is the famous Gelato di San Crispino, one of the city’s longest-established gourmet gelaterias, which even made an appearance in the best-selling novel and flm Eat, Pray, Love. In addition, Rome’s ice cream makers are not afraid to experiment with favours. Strawberry, chocolate and vanilla are all delicious classics, but prepare to be a little more adventurous if you visit Gelateria Fatamorgana, where unusual scoops include wasabi and black olive. globalblue.com
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PHOTO: ALBERTOBLASETTI.COM
G E L AT E R I A FATA MO RG A N A Gelateria Fatamorgana was founded by Maria Agnese Spagnuolo, gelato expert extraordinaire. Spagnuolo, who grew up in Apulia, was inspired by the ice creams of her childhood and developed a passion for making ice cream from a very young age. After pursuing a career in acting, she eventually returned to her dream of making natural, gluten-free homemade ice cream, and attracted praise for her ability to create multiple favour combinations. There are now seven outlets across Rome where visitors can sample three diferent types of pistachio ice cream and sorbets such as rose and grapefruit or chocolate and orange. Gelateria Fatamorgana, Via Laurina 10, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3265 2238, gelateriafatamorgana.it
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GIOLITTI
PHOTO: MARGHERITA BORSANO 2014
As Rome’s oldest gelateria, Giolitti certainly knows what it’s doing when it comes to ice cream. Originally opened in 1890 by Giuseppe and Bernadina Giolitti, the Via Ufci del Vicario parlour is a must-visit for traditional gelato made to the very highest standards. Order the Coppa Giolitti, a delicious combination of chocolate ice cream, custard and chilled zabaione, topped with cream and toasted hazelnuts. The recipe dates back to 1920 and is still a favourite today. Giolitti, Via degli Ufci del Vicario 40, 00186 Rome, +39 06 699 1243, giolitti.it
I L G E L AT O DI S A N C R I S P I N O
FLOR
This gelateria has a branch near the Pantheon and another close to the Trevi fountain, two of Rome’s main visitor attractions, so you’ll often fnd people queueing out of the doors. Il Gelato di San Crispino is known for its exacting approach to ice cream, using only the best ingredients and no artifcial preservatives. Il Gelato di San Crispino, Via della Panetteria 42, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3924, ilgelatodisancrispino.it
A relative newcomer to the city’s gelato scene, Flor set up shop in 2011 and already has a loyal fan base worldwide. This is in no small way due to its high-quality all-natural range of ice creams, which are based on traditional recipes. Flor now has three shops in Rome, all of which serve the company’s selection of over 50 favours alongside biscuits, crêpes, wafes and semifreddo desserts. Flor, Piazza Campo de Fiori 51, 00186 Rome, +39 033 8563 7012, gelatifor.it
globalblue.com
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GUIDE
PHOTO: DAVID ILIFF CC-BY-SA 3.0
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Rome with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest sweet treats to the coolest concept stores. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/rome.
A GLIMPSE OF ROME Above: the city’s famous Trevi fountain is one of the most beautiful and best-known in the world
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY ‘It’s impossible not to be seduced by Rome’s ancient grandeur and old-world charm’ – Isabella Redmond Styles, SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor
globalblue.com
PHOTOS: ALEXANDRA COSSHAM; JAMIE DHALIWAL; DOMINIQUE FENN; CHRISTINA GEORGIOU; PATRICIA MEDIAVILLA; DARYL MITCHELL; KATIE RAMSINGH
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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!
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IL IA
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page
106
VI
VIA X XIV
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page
95
V IA
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page
VIA FONTANELLA BORGHESE
PIAZZA TRINITÀ DI SPAGNA DEI MONTI
page
92
CO R
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VIA
IA
VIA FR A NC
DEL
O
DEL
VIA
TO R
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PiazzaAugusto Imperatore
V IT
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BA V IA
MAUSOLEO DI AUGUSTO
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90
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98
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page
VI A TO M AC
VIA
VI
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CO R S O D ' I
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VI A DI RI PE
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VIA
UN
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LB
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VI
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AB
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Piazza Del Popolo
VI
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VIMIN
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BR
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90 | G U I D E
TRIDENTE AREA Via Margutta OR ECI
BALDININI ● F.M. MEGNA ● ANTEPRIMA ● ASPESI ● TOY WATCH ● VIA VIT ANTONACCI ● TO RIA EMPORIO ARMANI ● ANTIQUARIO ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN● W. A POLLONI ●
BOC
CA D
I LE
ONE
MAC ● HERZEL DE BACH ● VILEBREQUIN● TIFFANY & CO. ●
V IA
HOGAN ●
● SERAPIAN ● STONE ISLAND ● GENTE ● ● ● ● ●
GENTE FLOS PIAZZA SEMPIONE ICEBERG MIU MIU P.26
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
A L IB ERT PINKO KIEHLS ERMANNO SCERVINO CHANEL ETRO CIR MATTIOLI COSTUME NATIONAL
GALLERIA VITTORIA ●
A
DE
LLE
CA
RR
OZ
ZE
Global Blue Retailer
VIA
DI G
ES
UE
MA
AREA CONTESA ●
VIA
DI S
AN
GI A
CO
● BRUNO MURATORI
MO
P.50
V IA
DE
I GR
● MARCHETTI
RIA
PROFUMERIA HB ●
CHIARA BASCHIERI ●
● CAMPAIOLA
TROLLBEADS ● RED VALENTINO ● NUOVA ANTE PRIMA ●
DE
LLA
CR
● VUELLE ● E&R DANON ● VENEZIANI
● ANIMALIER E OLTRE ● COCOZZA ● CONSORTI
SERRA ● CINOA ● MARIO OASI ● COEN ● GENTE ● LA NUVOLA ● RINALDI ● VIA VIT MARGUTTA FACTORY ● TO RIA LA PALLINA ●
VIA
● MARGUTTA OTTICA
● RICHARD DI CASTRO
ECI
V IA
OC
E
Piazza Di Spagna
Non-Global Blue Retailer
● SERGIO NESCI ● ARTEMIDE
V IA A
VIA
VIA
● DALIDA'
MARGUTTA 102 ●
VIA DEL BABUINO
KITON ● DECORARTE ●
● VHERNIER ● ARMANI JEANS
● SADDLERS UNION
ARTEMIDE ● RIN
DI S
AN
Piazza Di Spagna
Featured In This Issue
● MUCCI ● IL MARMORARO ● MASSONI ● IL MONDO DELL’ARTE ● PALAZZO MARGUTTA ● FLAIR ● MONOGRAMMA ● MONIES L IB E
SE
BA
● ENIGMA RT
ST
IAN
ELL
O
PHOTO: XXXXXXX
I GR
VIA DEL BABUINO
DE
CANALI FRATELLI ROSSETTI RED VALENTINO HAUSMANN & CO P.42 IL GUFO MISS GRANT
L AU
IO R I
V IA
● ● ● ● ● ●
● EMMA OTTO
GROSSI MAURIZIO ● V IA
D E ’F
GALLERIA D’ARTE BENUCCI ●
● LELLI
BONUCCELI ●
A R IO
MANILA GRACE ● CO MO ROSATO ● RUCOLINE ●
SANDRO FERRONE CARLUCCI AAA SANDRO HB PROFUMERIE DAVID MAYER NAMAN TUMI
LL A
GOFFI CARBONI ●
V IA M
GIA
● ● ● ● ● ● ●
ONT ANE
V I A M A R G U T TA
AN
VIA
DE VIA
ROY ROGERS ● DI S
DE
LC
SO LC
OR
● JO MALONE ● DE NICOLA ● OMAI NOW OR NEVER
FABRIZIO BULCKAEN ● MOSCHINO ● LEO PIZZO ●
VIA
HERVÉ LÉGER DODO RIENZI COMPAGNIA ITALIANA VOGUE SHOP BARRILÀ BOUTIQUE TORY BURCH BRIONI
TI
MARIO LUCCHESE ● MALÌPARMI ●
LE F
T TA
EI M O N
FABRIANO ● MAJE ● PETIT BATEAU ●
DEL
IN ITÀ D
A
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
V IA
ELL A TR
R IN
VIA M A RGU
V IA L E D
L AU
100% CAPRI DE GRISOGONO PALAZZO FABI BOGGI CHOPARD
GIOVANNI RASPINI ●
A
ZIMMER -RHODE ● PUNTO PELLE ● RIENZI ●
● ● ● ● ●
FRATELLI PETOCCHI ●
OTTICA SPEZIA ● CESARI ● GENTE ●
VIA DEL BABUINO
VI
VIA DEL BABUINO
SO
Via del Babuino
92 | G U I D E
Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di Leone VIA VIT TO RIA
VIA VIT TO RIA
DIOR ● CAMPER ● LOEWE ● SEPHORA ● K-WAY ● SERMONETA ●
VIA BEL SIA NA
TI TÀ D E I M O N
LL A TRINI VIALE DE
A
GO R
IN
IA N A
VIA
O BARBARA UIN GREGORI ● AB LB FRANCESCA A ● DE ALESSANDRELLI ● VIA NIA & CO ● LESLEY ● ORTIGIA ● THE VERDE ●
A
LI
OPAGAN DA
IA N
CEL
VIA DI PR
GOR
MA
● JACKSON
GABRIEL STORE ● VI A DI
C AP O LE
CA S E
VIA
VI A M AR
DEI
DUE
IO RI
LEO NE
● PINKO ● PELLETTERIA FLACCO ● EDISON BATA ● ● RALPH VICTORY ● ● VICTORY I-D ● ● KAMINSKY ROSA FISH ● ● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI
IO DE ’F
VIA BOC CA DI
MA
CEL
LI
● UMBERTO VISGA ANTIQUARIO ● NIA ● LAURA ZOFFOLI CAMPOMARZIO 70 ● ESSENTIAL GALLERY ● FLEUR TEMPORARY
● LUNARIA ● NECK & NECK ● SCAPA OF SCOTLAND ● MORO & OGNISSANTI ● FALIERO SARTI
VI A BELSIANA
● DAL CO ● SPADARELLA
Non-Global Blue Retailer
● OTTICA BILECI
GR E
DUE
RENARD ●
V IA
D EI
SAMSONITE ● BERTOLETTI ● LADIA ● DE CARLIS ●
ROBERTO COIN ●
ROBERTO BIAGINI ● JODIEL ● TIFERET ● ● V VITTORIA ● GREGG ● BRT ROME ● CORSI ● IL BACO DA SETA ● FABRICATORE ● ALFONSI GIOIELLI
VIA DEL CORSO
Global Blue Retailer
GRE
● BRUNO CALO ● CROMIA ● PIER CARANTI
● CHIURATO MICHELE MANDARINA DUCK ● ● EDITH B METTIMI GIÙ ● ● HOSS INTROPIA ILLY SHOP ● ● PINEIDER 59/A ● RED & BLUE ● METTIMI GIU' ● ● TAMMARO CASTELLO D’AURIA ●
VIA VITTORIA
VIA DELLA CROCE
IST
ALEXANDER ●
Via dei Due Macelli
VIA DEI GRECI
VIA VITTORIA
V IA
Piazza Mignanelli
ROSSATI ●
AS
● VALENTINO
DI CORI ●
VI
● ACQUA DI PARMA ● IWC ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● NESPRESSO
VIA FRAT TINA
Via Vittoria
P.100
● FURLA
P.104
BLUGIRL GENNY EMPORIO SAN FIRENZE BOTTEGA DELL’ARGENTO CESARE PACIOTTI
WP STORE ●
FRETTE ●
VIA F R ATTIN A
● VERSA CE ● DIESE L
Giorgio de Chirico House-Museum
VIA BORGOGNONA
● ● ● ● ●
ESCADA ●
LORIBLU ●
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● TINA ● MARNI ● WHO'S WHO ●
DI CASTRO ●
O
VIA CO ND OT TI VI A BO CC A DI LEO N E
VIA BORGOGNONA
Piazza Di Spagna
SANTONI ● MISSONI ●
● CHRISTOFLE
VIA CO ND OT TI
E B A S T I A N E L LO
CHANEL ● LONGCHAMP ●
● BLU GIRL
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●
VIA DI SA N S
UIN
LA PERLA ●
CA RR OZ ZE
CE
● CARNEVALI SERGIO ● AMINA RUBINACCI ROSSI ● ● CORRADINI PURA LOPEZ ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● JAGER LE ● ZINTALA COULTRE ● ● GIORGIA R EFRATI ● CASADEI ● P.138 EMILIO PUCCI ●
BAB
V IA DE LLE
VIA DEL LA CRO
MENICHINI ●
SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ● ALBERT MOLAYEM ●
● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO
DEL
CE
● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING ● ANITA ROMANI
VIA
VIA DEL LA CRO
VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
VIA BEL SIA N
A
VIA ALI BER T
Featured In This Issue
DIESEL STORE ROMA Via del Corso, 1 18 DIESEL FLAGSHIP STORE ROMA Piazza di Spagna, 18 - angolo Vicolo del Bottino
S H O P | 95
ATOS LOMBARDINI
PHOTO: TONY CUPELLI
Fashion label Atos Lombardini is committed to producing quality womenswear, all of it made in Italy with a passion for great style, top quality and excellent materials and craftsmanship. Explore the latest range at the fagship store on Via Frattina. The creative team has embraced varied aspects of the Mediterranean – the bright white buildings of the coast, the patterns of local crafts, the warm colours of the sun and the deep blues of the sea – to create a collection perfect for the warmer months.
Atos Lombardini, Via Frattina 19A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 5473, atoslombardini.com * for map go to page 96
Via Belsiana, Via Mario de’ Fiori & Via del Gambero VIA
ROZ ZE
● GREMESE
● CHOSES
● GIOIELLERIA MARONI
PANCRISIA ● LAURA BIAGIOTTI ●
VI A BE LS IA NA
O
Piazza Mignanelli
● CHIARA BLU
Featured In This Issue
OPAG A ND VI A DI PR
VI A D E L G A
A
Non-Global Blue Retailer
LI
MADE IN ITALY ●
CEL
WATCH POINT ●
VIA DELLA VITE
MA
MBE
RO
VIA FRAT TINA
DUE
Global Blue Retailer
D EI
VIA F R AT TINA
BALDININI ● ● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA OUTFITFABI ● ● VANITA LALA ITALIA ● VIA DEL GAMBERO 20● PITRAN ● VALAMBERT ● ● KLIP FRANCESCHINI ●
TI A
VIA BORGOGNONA
VIA
VIA DE L CO RS
IA N
IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●
BADURA ●
GOR
● FGF STORE
VIA BORGOGNONA
GRE
● DOMUS CALZATURE
’FI OR I
RUCOLINE ● HAVAIANAS ●
P.44
VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
MALO ● KEEP OUTLET ●
● GHERARDINI
VI A CO N D OT TI
I
● BOZART
Piazza Di Spagna
● BRACCIALINI
VI A MA RI O DE
PICCO GIOIELLI ● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● NIKI NIKA ●
● BL GIOIELLI
VIA
VIA CO N DO TT
CE
● CAMEO CENTER
● MOSTROLEO ● TRONCONI
VIA D ELL A CRO
● FLORENCE MOON ● C.U.C.I.N.A. ● WOLFORD ● MANUELE ZOO ● MARTINO MIDALI
’FI OR I
VI A BE LS IA NA
● GIOIELLI DI COCO’ VIA DEL LE CAR
● I CARTAI
LL A TRINI
● ILEANA DELLA CORTE
VI A MA RI O DE
VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
● FABRIS
S E B A S T I A N E L LO
● ZOPPIA
CE
● COSE ● TIZIANA MODIANO FIORENTINO ●
CASHMIRINO ● BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ● BORGHINI ●
VIA DI SA N
● LUIGI BORRELLI NIA OUTLET ●
VIA DEL LA CRO
CASTIELLO ●
O
● MALO ACCESSORI
● CORNER ● VERTECCHI ● MONTBLANC
VIALE DE
VI A BE LS IA NA
L'ANELLERIA ●
● LA VIE VOLEUSE
O
VERTECCHI ●
● BARTON'S
UIN
HENRY BEGUELIN ●
VIA ALI BER T
BAB
ORAFO ●
● LA MERCERIA ● WORLD ORIGINAL WATCH
TA D E L M O N
IA
BARTON'S ●
VIA DE L CO RS
DEL
VIA VIT TOR
V. VITTORIA GIOIELLI ●
96 | G U I D E
Via Condotti, Via Frattina & Via della Croce
MALLONI ●
XANDRINE ● MODA UOMO ●
IORI
POMPI ●
VIA MAR IO DE’F
FIORENTINO ● BOTTEGA QUATTRO ● OTTICA CALÒ ● VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
SPIMAR ●
LOVELITE ● VASARI ● LALA ● RUE DE LA CROIX ● VERTECCHI ●
VIA BEL S IAN A
STOP HERE ● HARRISON ● FLORENCE OF MOON ● CAMICISSIMA ● LIOR ● TWINS ● MR F VIVIANTI ● BOTTOM DOWN ● THIERRY RABOTIN ●
● FIORENTINO
IORI
GIORGIO ARMANI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● MONTBLANC ● ELEUTERI ● JIMMY CHOO ● HERMÈS ●
VIA MAR IO DE’F
DAMIANI ● ● SCOOTERPLUS ● PRETTY BALLERINAS CARTIER ● ● MARVILLE A. TESTONI ● ● MALIA ● CAESAR
PRADA UOMO ●
PRADA DONNA ●
MONCLER ●
Pia zz a Di Sp ag na
VIA
DEI
DUE
MA
CEL
LI
P.95 VIA MAR IO DE’F
IORI
GALLO ● FAUSTO SANTINI ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
● CELINE ALVIERO MARTINI ● ● BRIONI FREYWILLE ● ● CASTELLI ● SWATCH ASH ● PURE ● ● LORO PIANA BRANDY ● STUART & MALLVILLE ● WEITZMAN MICARELLI ● ● HAUSMANN & CO FEDERICO GIUDI ● ● BUCCELLATI CHOPIN ● ● ORO GOLD PINKO ● ● ALBERTA FERRETTI MATI ● ● MIU MIU FABIO D ● VIA BEL SIA NA
● BALLY GUESS ● CARLO ● OMEGA PAZOLINI ● LIST ● WOLFORD ● L'OCCITANE ● ACQUA ● SWAROVSKI DELL'ELBA● PANDORA ● DANIELLE ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●
● GALASSIA ● SISTE’S ROBERTO ● BOTTICELLI ● CAMPANILE ● MARTINI ● MAX MARA ● GRACE K ● ARMANI JUNIOR ● STEFANEL ● WINDSOR ● PENNY BLACK ● FALCONERI ● OPTISSIMO ● PAL ZILERI ● TRU TRUSSARDI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● MORESCHI ● FREDDY ● ARGENTARIUS ● CASTELLI ● REBECCA ● MANILA GRACE ● EFRATI ● CALZEDONIA ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● KIEHL’S ● GENTE
● SWAROVSKI PIQUARDO ● ● ADORE VIVIANTI ● ● GEOX ● JECKERSON AVC BY ADRIANA ● DIOR ● NERO GIARDINI CAMPANILE ● ● BRIGHENTI ● ELENA MIRÒ ● GUCCI ● DOPPELGANGER ● UNO DE 50 BOSS STORE ● ● BULGARI P.51 ● MOLESKINE ELISABETTA FRANCHI BY CELINE B ● PROFUMERIA CASTELLI ● ● ANGELETTI ● ATOS LOMBARDINI VIA BORGOGNONA
PERSONA ● FORNARI E FORNARI ● ● LOUIS VUITTON MARELLA ● ● VALENTINO P.47 ANDREA FABIANI ● A.G. SPALDING & BROS ● LIVIANA CONTI ● ● MAX MARA P.47
TOD’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● TRUSSARDI ● MARCELLO ● FRANCESCO ROGANI ● MAX & CO ● VILEBREQUIN ●
VIA BEL SIA NA
FURLA ●
CHURCH’S ●
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● HARRY WINSTON ● BURBERRY ● BATTISTONI ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●
VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
●B P.48/106 ● MIRA BEAUTY POINT ● LUXURY ● VENCHI
● SINERGY ● GOOD QUEEN ● ANDREUCCI ● RUE DE LA CROIX
● COSE VIA BEL SI ANA
● FIORENTINO ● ABITART
O
● FLIRT ● CLIO
VIA DE L CO RS
● BALDININI TREND ● PATRIZIA ● RUBY COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS ● LUCIANO PADOVAN ● LUISA VENIER ● YOUPARFUM.COM ● COMANDINI
O
IL BISONTE ● RENÉ CAOVILLA ● BALENCIAGA ●
GUCCI ● MORRIS ● LORENZO CARMIGNANI ● SPORTMAX ● STELLA MCCARTNEY ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● MARINA RINALDI ●
A
LILIA LEONI ● GIOCATTOLI ●
V IA BE L SIA N
A
FIO RI
GOCCO ● ANTONIO MENEGHETTI ● ATTILIO RONCACCIA SARTORIA ●
LARA ● ETHIC OUTLET ●
VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
FIT FLOP● I CINQUE ● ROSMARIE CONFETTI ● DEHA ● QUETZALCOATL CHOCOLATIER ●
VIA MA RIO DE’
ALCOZER ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TIE SHOP ● MIDALI ● MARTINO MIDALI ●
PEUTEREY ● NIKI NIKA ●
VI A BEL SIA N
LADURÉ E ●
COLOMB O ● TARTUFI & FRIENDS ●
VI A MA RIO DE’
FIO RI
● KID SPACE ● MONNA LISA ROBERTO ● CAVALLI ● BRIGHENTI
● IRO ● BLUMARINE ● LES COPAINS
● ZENDRINI
MARIO GALLO ● CALVO
LA ZUCCA ● STREGATA LUXURY ● PERFUMES EBANOE ● AVORIO
● IL PORTONE
OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA ● NOVELLA
● MARISA PADOVAN ● LA PEONIA
P.42
● COS ● & OTHER STORIES
EDDY ● MONETTI
BRUNELLO ● CUCINELLI
VIA BOCCA DI LEONE
VIA BORGOGNONA
VIA BORGOGNONA
RR OZ ZE
Piazza Mignanelli
VIA DE L CO RS
Via Borgognona
Via delle Carrozze
Featured In This Issue
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Global Blue Retailer
VIA FRATTIN A VI A F RAT TIN A
VIA FRAT TINA
VIA CO ND OT TI
RR OZ ZE VIA DE LL E CA
VIA CO ND OT TI
CE
VIA DEL L A CRO
VI A DE LL E CA
RR OZ ZE
VI A DE LL E CA
VIA CO ND OT TI
OC E
VI A DE LL A CR
OC E
VI A DE LL A CR
98 | G U I D E
VIA DEL CORSO AREA Via del Corso (North)
Via del Corso (Central) CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●
Piazza Del Popolo
LL
NCI EO
DE
MA
CE
LLI
FENDI ●
● STEFANO RICCI
● ORIGINAL MARINES
ISHOP ●
Global Blue Retailer
A
MONDO WIND MARELLA INTIMISSIMI EFFETTI MARC O’POLO ET MOI ATHLETES WORLD LA 3 STORE NAU CHOPIN DAVID SADDLER
RES
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
SABABA ●
L' IM P
LACOSTE CATENELLA ALCOTT PEPE JEANS MANILA GRACE KEY LU BERNABEI SIMONA L’OCCITANE DA VINCI FRANCESCHINI
Piazza del Parlamento
DEL
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Non-Global Blue Retailer
TIT E
Piazza di San Silvestro
VIA SA N CL
AU DI A
● ZARA
VIA VITTORIA
VIA DELLA CROCE
VIA DEL L E CO N V ER
VIA DEL PA RL AM EN TO
● AMOUAGE FRETTE ●
VIA
ELISABETTA FRANCHI PERLA GOOD QUEEN ST.MORITZ SOLARIS COCCINELLE
Piazza Colonna
Galleria Alberto Sordi
● BRACCIALINI ● IMAGINARIUM ● EDONE’ ● BOGGI
Largo dei Lombardi
V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O
● ● ● ● ● ●
BOGGI ●
GAP ●
INTIMISSIMI ●
BE TWEEN ●
REDFORD ●
VIT E
MASSIMO DUTTI ●
ADIDAS ● IC I
VIA BELSIANA
TEF
VIA DE L L A
COCCINELLE ●
PON
● DISNEY ● GRILLI
LA RINASCENTE ●
DEI
VIA DEL CORSO
V IA
NIKE ●
● ESOTICA ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO ● CARPISA
CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●
GAUDI ●
VI A IN LU CI N A
● SISLEY ● VANS
VIA DEI GRECI
SEPHORA ●
NON
● HOUR PASSION ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● LE GROUPE ● STELLA Z ● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY
VIA DEL CORSO
BATA ● PIAZZA ITALIA ● MAC ●
● FALCONERI ● STROILI ORO ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO A
RO
N O VA
● SWAROVSKI
G AM BE
FLORENCE ●
I
V I A DE L
IO C A
N D OT T
VI A FR AT TIN A
VIA DEL CORSO
N TO N
VIA DEL CORSO
V IA A
VODAFONE ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● GREISY ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●
VIA DI GESU E MA RIA
● LAB SHOES
DADADA ●
V IA C O
● LUCCHESI ● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI
Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina
O
NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●
PERUGINA GAZELLE COVER STORE DIVA BERNABEI TATIÉ SUBDUED DOUBLE AGENT FOOT LOCKER PULL LOVE MARCO
UIN
FOSSIL ● DESIGUAL ●
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
AB
H&M ● IO
● LIU JO
VIA BOR GOG
LB
VA N TA G G
BOTTEGA VERDE ANTHEA NERO GIARDINI DOMINIQUE LUSH 7 CAMICIE REFRIGIWEAR MURPHY & NYE
DE
DEL
VIA DEL CORSO
V IA
●S RIP A RTO R ENS E IA
N ELLA
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
VIA
VI A DEL LE FON TA
VIA DELLE CARROZZE
VIA DI SAN TA MARIA IN V IA
DI R VIA
TO
VIA DEL CORSO
BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ● RE MISHELLE ● DA PIETRO ● DAVID HAMILTON ● KELOKURA ●
VIA DEL CORSO
IPE
T TA
VIA
CALZEDONIA DECCIO CARLO FORNARINA GOLDEN POINT ASOLE E BOTTONI TALLY WEIJL DIESEL GUESS
● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● ESOTICA
H&M ●
VIA
● ALFIERI
VIA DELL ' OCA
NO
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
VIA BELSIANA
● BORSALINO ● ZEISS HOUSE
VIA DEL CORSO
GEOX ●
V I A D E I C O N D OT T I 2 7 , 0 0 1 8 7 R O M A
STUARTWEITZMAN.COM
100 | G U I D E
Via del Corso (South)
VIA DELL E M U RATT E
CHI MAS ERGA
V IA B VI A D È
B U R RÒ
VATURI ● OTHERS ● TIBER ● BARONE ● EC
IN AT
VIA MAR CO MING HETT
I
IM AD VI V I A D EL CA RAV ITA
CELIO ●
VIC O LO S CIA
I
R RA
● OMAI NOW OR NEVER V IA D
EL L' U
M ILTÀ
VIA DI SA N M A R CELLO
VIA DEL CO L
VIA DEL CORSO
LEG IO RO M A
NO
GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●
VIA DEL CO RSO
T ON
VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA
OBJ ●
PI E TR A
VIA L ATA
VIA DI SAN TA MARIA IN VIA
FLORSHEIM ● ● OYSHO PINKO ● TECH IT EASY ● ● C’ART TRU TRUSSARDI ● OTTICA F. LA ● BARBERA PIQUADRO ● GUESS BY ● MARCIANO ● THE BRIDGE ● ZARA
VI A DI
VIA DEL CORSO
MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ● GARDINO ● FELLINI ●
LA FELTRINELLI ●
Galleria Piazza Colonna Alberto Sordi TIM ● X CORSI ● FIFTY FIFTY ●
DIESEL
● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI
VI A SS. A P O STO LI
● LA GARDENIA ● DOPPELGANGER ● SAXON’S
VICOLO D O R IA
STEFANEL ●
VIA D EL PLE BIS CIT
O
VIA DEL CORSO
SCHEGGE ●
● OUTLET VICOLO DEL PIO MBO
● ● ● ● ● ●
TATIE TEBE LEVIATAN SALOMÈ LE GROUP PERONI
PIAZZA DEI SA NTISSIMI APOSTOLI
● HAMMERSMITH
● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI
VIA CE SA R E B AT
TIS TI
Piazza Venezia
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To mark the opening of its latest fagship store in Rome, Diesel has commissioned an exclusive screen-based art piece by Andreas Nicolas Fischer. The collaboration with the German artist creates a visual representation of topographical data taken from maps of Rome. Visitors to the Diesel store become enveloped in the work as they step inside the atrium with its mirrored ceiling and screen-covered walls displaying the evolving artwork. It seemed ftting that Rome, which has had such an impact on art history, should be the location of this pioneering piece of digital art. Diesel also has a long history of promoting and nurturing creative talent, with special emphasis on those independent artists that push boundaries and look to the future. Diesel, Piazza Di Spagna 18, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6817, diesel.com * for map go to page 92
102 | G U I D E
VIA DEL TRITONE AREA
TE R AT LE F DEL REA ND
T 'A
I POL
A
AN
V I A D EL L A PA
N ET T ER
IA
3
TOP 3… BRIDGES 1. Ponte Sisteo One of Trastevere’s most popular landmarks, the Ponte Sisteo’s appeal lies in its romantic appearance and it’s a regular backdrop for films, music videos and adverts.
PHOTO: SEBASTIEN BERTRAND FROM PARIS
2. Ponte Fabricio The Ponte Fabricio, Rome’s oldest bridge, provides access to Tiberina island. The two double-faced Janus heads on top of its marble pillars symbolise the past and the future. 3. Ponte Sant’Angelo The Ponte Sant’Angelo, almost 2,000 years old, is named for the story that an angel appeared here to announce the end of the plague. Formerly a route for pilgrims visiting Saint Peter’s Basilica, it’s a popular photo stop for travellers today.
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
● G-STAR
● STONEFLY
● MELLUSO
VIA
BOX 51 ●
DI CORI ●
MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●
VIA POL I
● IL PANTALONE
● MUJI
RO
● SAXON'S
O R TA
S
VIA DEL T RITO NE
● SB LEATHER SHOP
VI A
D EL M
● FASHION SHOES
LARGO CHIGI VI A DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA
Galleria Alberto Sordi
Piazza di San Claudio
LUISA SPAGNOLI ●
● MEDICI
DI
V I A D E L P OZ Z E T TO
PELLICCE CANALI ● RIMOWA ●
N CL AUDIO
VIA
FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ● ARISTOCRAT ● TIM ● THE GALLERY ● LE GROUP ● ALTARIVA ●
RES
E
● BEDETTI
BEAUTY POINT ●
L’ IM P
ME RC ED
Piazza di ● BRIC’S San Silvestro
● GERARD ● + VISTA ● TRIS GEMME E ● DIAMANTI
DEL
O RI
VI A DE L LA
TIT E
● NERO GIARDINI
● CARHARTT
VIA DEL CORSO
● SETTIMIO MIELI
VIA
IO DÈ FI
TECH IT EASY ● SUPERDRY ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJIRI ● NEW BALANCE ●
VIA D EI SA
● UNO PIÚ
Piazza Colonna
VIA DEL LE CO NV ER
THE NORTH ● FACE VISION OPTIKA ●
Piazza del Parlamento
VIA DEL CORSO
VI A DEL PAR LAMENTO
TIMBERLAND ●
V I A I N LU CI N A
VI TE
VI A M AR
VI A DE LL A
VIA DI PRO PAGA NDA
Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite, Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone
Metro
A
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EQ
TT UA
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VI
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● OVS INDUSTRY
FO
FO
AN NT
CC IO
RO
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PHOTO: MR AJEDREZ CC BY-SA 3.0
VI
L B OC CA
● SANDRO FERRONE ● VALLI
● PINOCCHIO
IS
TO
BRIONI ●
VENE
BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●
A DAN JHON ●
VI A DE
DE
LT
● CASUCCIO & SCALERA
● R.BAZZOCCHI
VIA
DE
T O R IO
VI A Z U
LI
FR A NC
CC H EL
IN
JOELA ●
A
V I A V IT
SI
ST
ALTA MODA FURS ●
A
LI
VI
ES
CO
CR
ISP
I
E
NE
VI
BENETTON ●
DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ●
EL
MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●
CLARKS ● SOUVENIR SHOP ● DESIGUAL ● BRAND ● MISS ROBERTA ● ESTHER ●
VIA
L IS
Z IO
A
IC A
IA N
R IF
MO
PU
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AC
CLASS ●
A
VIA R A SEL L A
VIA
A
EG
LLA
IN
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V IA
SI
GR
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G A LL I N A C C I O
A
V IA
I DU
globalblue.com
V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E SI
B E R IN I BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI
NO LE N TI A D A TO N IC O L I SA N V IA D
IS AD VI
O ILI AS B AN E AD
VI
NI CI UC
V IA B A R Piazza Barberini
VIA DEL TRITO NE
VI A RAS EL L
A VIA R A S ELL NE CIO AR IN VIA
LE CAS E VIA DI CAP O
PP
DE
O DEL
VI
GATTINON I ●
A IC
VIA
V I CO L
S H O P | 103
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104 | G U I D E
GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE-MUSEUM Delve into the surreal world of Giorgio de Chirico at the museum located in the apartment where the artist spent the last 30 years of his life. Alongside de Chirico’s surrealist works, visitors can admire the apartment’s historic interior, which juxtaposes 1950s furniture with opulent antique pieces. There’s also an unrivalled view of the Piazza di Spagna.
Giorgio de Chirico House-Museum, Piazza di Spagna 31, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 6546, fondazionedechirico.org * for map go to page 92
Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina
ALBERTO AMIDEI ● MUSA ●
Antico Caffè Vitti
NC LL
VIA BOR GOG
●N IK I N
IK A
Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina
RZ
PA
CAM
PO
VIA DE
MA
L L A LU
NO AM
L DIVI
LO D E
VIA
V ICO
VI A DE L LA
Featured In This Issue
O
ZI
AR
ZIO
M
AR
DI
PO
MP
CA
VIA
A
V IA
DEL
L'I M P
RES
NE
S S IO
MI
LA EL AD
VI
OM
M
CA
A
VI
NA
ALE
ADD LA M VIA
● BREIL
Café
VIA DEL CORSO
NESPRESSO ●
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LOUIS VUITTON ●
DEL
P.48 POMELLATO ●
P.44
Global Blue Retailer
● CARSHOE
R IO
BURBERRY ●
IC A
E
Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina ● BOTTEGA VENETA
LV
CRUCIANI & BELLA ●
I DE
VIT E
VIA DELLA M ER CE D
● BONPOINT
● SAINT LAURENT
F F IC
GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●
IO
LI U
VIA● DEL CORSO OBOR
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●
VIA ME TAS TAS
D EG
VIA FR AT TIN A
● PASQUALE BRUNI
● CAMPO MARZIO BANCHETTI ● ● VITTORIO BAGAGLI JUST DESIGN ● ● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET NEGRI ● ● CAMPO MARZIO 9 PAS DE ROUGE ● ● SCOTIA CAPUA CASHMERE ● ● CHASMERITALY ● BIARRITZ 1961 CALZATURE CAMPO MARZIO ● ● PAUL TAYLOR GOLF & GOLF ● ● CENTODIECI SUPERCASA ● TEBRO ● ● ALAIN PAINE V I A D EI P R E FE T TI ● IL CAMICIAIO VI A IN LU CIN A ETIQUETA NEGRA ● ●O BECCACECE ● CRU T T IC C IA N GINTEL ● A AL I● PA R EMPRESA ● LAM ENT ● FG O ALB ERT E L Piazza del LI MONOCLE ● Parlamento ● PERSICO TIE SHOP ● ● CAMPO MARZIO 70 MODARI ● ● EMPRESA FOR PETS ONLY ● ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● BORSALINO ● OFFICINA SLOWEAR HERMÈS ● ● MIGLIORANZA DAVIDE CENCI ● ● STURNI V IA
NON A
V IA D EL GAM BERO
NE
IA NA
AGIO
I
VI A BE LS
ORE
DI P
VI C O LO DI SAN BI
LEO
DE
R DA
ALL
ACO
IOSSEL LIANI R-01-IO S ●
BRO THE RS ● NK L O●
DEL
EO
OKS
FR A
V IA
VIA DEL CORSO
V IA
TIN O BRO
VIA
CLEMEN
IO
VIA DEL
N D OT T
INO
V IA C O
VIA CONDOTTI, 80 00187 ROMA TEL: +39 06 6788944 MONDAY-SUNDAY 10 AM - 7 PM SHOP AT TESTONI.COM
106 | G U I D E
VIA VITTORIO VENETO AREA Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia ZILLI ●
● ZILLI
AN CI
IN
DEG
NA
ELIZABETH ●
● CASUCCIO & SCALERA
ZILLI ●
● DE PASCALIS
● GOLD SKIN EXCELSIOR GALLERY ● ● TRUCCHI IL IA UBI● S IC ● ARSENIO V IA GLOVES ● ● CARRY ON JUNIOR VERSACE ●
VI
OR
AD
IT T
IP
AV
OR
VI
TA P
ALBERTINA ●
IO
SA R
CHE
LAZ
V IA
MAR
V IA
● DE SIMONE
VI A
A
CAVIGLIA ● TARASCIO JAEGERLE COULTRE ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●
IO
GIOIELLERIA CAPUANO ● KUKI MELLINI ● LUCIANO PADOVAN ●
VE NE TO
RAPHAEL ●
HELENE PROFUMERIA ●
NIMA & RAY ●
V IA
ANDREW'S TIES ●
E M IL
● BRIONI
IA
RINALDI ●
B V IA
V IA AU R OR A
CASATO GIOIELLI ● V IA
V IA
LU D
O V IS
LU D
I
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MONTBLANC Inspired by the free-spirited women of today, Montblanc’s Bohème Collection is elegant yet distinctive. Encapsulating the company’s watchmaking expertise in a feminine style, the Bohème has a self-winding calibre and date or perpetual calendar. In addition to the diamond dial, the standout feature is the bi-coloured leather wristband, which gives a playful nod to this season’s colour-blocking trend. Montblanc, Via dei Condotti 70, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6694 1894, montblanc.com * for map go to page 96 Global Blue Retailer
O V IS
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VI
A
LI
GU
RI
A
ON
CO M
PA G
NI
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108 | G U I D E
PANTHEON & NAVONA AREA Via del Governo Vecchio A
H E M IL
N
SA IE CH A
LL DE A
VI
NI
AD
IP
AR
IO
NE
HI O
OR IO
EM AN
UE
LE
II
ROSCIOLI Roscioli brings together a vast selection of Rome’s delicious food and drink under one roof. The store’s impressive gourmet ofering includes over 450 varieties of cheese, top-notch Italian and French wines, olive oil and Italian ham. Wine and food tasting experiences are available too and visitors can even design their own private tasting, raiding Roscioli’s extremely wellstocked deli and cellar.
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Roscioli, Via dei Giubbonari 21, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 5287, salumeriaroscioli.com
Place Of Interest
TT
EA TR
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SA VE
CC VE
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I●A AL RI ID E ● M ELL HIO E ● ● O I CC I C 3 GI VE I- N O 9 E ● O B I C N .G N V R RIA CI . DA ● LE VE E L NC E L A GO TR S ● CA L A LL L’A N E S E D & SI LO U NA CO VI LU IC B G E T RA ST
VE
TT
VI
D A IN INE LF PH E E D ● JOS ● A
RA
E EL
VI
FA OR
LI
EG
V. D
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INA R IO
● A. CENCI ● CASALI ● GIOREN MENTA ● GLOVES ● KLK STEREO ● SOUND
VI
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VIA D EL SEM
E
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● PANTHEON 70
CC H
S T IN
E L L E VA
E I PA
DE
VIA D
U R IO
Y VI LETT ● AR T VR AI S ● C 'E L S O O ●W Y LB KO ●
RA ●
O LO D
N IC O T
A
L
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● MI & CHI
DE
RS
VIA D. ROTONDA
● REPLAY
● D RIENZO
LE ARTIGIANE DI ROMA ●
PANTHEON
LO
RC ● ME
IO
● STILOFETTI
A V IA DE L L A MIN ERV
Piazza Della Rotonda
SAL ITA DE’C RES CEN ZI
CO
ER
CH
A
● OTTICA VERGERIO
VI
V GO
EC
CO
THE PLACE ● CLARKS ● IL PAPIRO ● STOCK CHIC ●
CAMPO MARZIO 70 ● ● CAMPER
NA
VI
BARUFFI ●
IA ● V IV
V NO
ALL O
A RGAN
SS
DEGLI ● EFFETTI
● MO
IL E
A FO
Piazza Rondanini
& FUT
VI A DEL CO R
LI
ELL
ARTE ORAFA ●
IL E ● UT
EL
VIC
ZO
N IC O
BRI
VIA D
VIA DE L P OZ
VA
I GA
ICO
LENA
● CARTOLERIA DEL PANTHEON ● DANI ● TOTEM ● TESTONI V I A C . A N TO N IN A ALESSANDRA GIANNETTI ● Piazza DEGLI EFFETTI ● MASSIMILIANO ARPIGA ● Capranica
UO
SE ● AR
E CC H I O
CALEFFI ●
● COSIMO COLONNA ● EX
V I A DE
DEL F
ER N O V OV
A VI A D. M A D D
DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR ●
LA
O LO
C DE ● AL L G ● VA L L I
● TERRACINA
VIA DELLE COPPELLE
S
RE
Z
AC E
VI
SHOE
OP
EX ● AL
VIC
Via della Maddalena, Piazza Capranica, Via degli Orfani, Via della Minerva, Salita de’ Crescenzi & Piazza della Rotonda
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110 | G U I D E
VIA COLA DI RIENZO AREA Via Cola di Rienzo TIFFANY ●
MERCEDES BENZ ●
● IRON G
DESIGN OPTICAL ● VI A AL ES SA
ND RO FA RN
VI A LU CR
E SE
EZ IO CA RO
● VERONICA TOSCANO ● SWAROVSKI ● EMPRESA
VI A MA RC
VI A CI CE RO
LO NN A AN TO NI O CO CELLUPRICA ●
VIA EZ IO DIEGO CATALDI ● DOUBLE AGENT ● MANILA GRACE ● VANS ● INTIMISSIMI ● ARMONY ● TIE SHOP ● BALLIN ● CENTODIECI ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●
● ● ● ●
LA TAVOLA ELEGANTE DOPPELGANGER THE BRIDGE CLICHÈ
● GAJ ALDO ● ● ● ● ● ●
VIA ATTILIO REGOLO TRU TRUSSARDI ● FALCONERI ● KIKO ● DANIELLE ● COIN EXCELSIOR ●
VIA TA CIT O
3 MILK L'OCCITANE CARLA G SUB DUED BRANDY & MELVILLE VI A ORA ZIO
VIA VIRGILIO
● MANI DI FATA ● MAGAZINE ● GEOX ● NIKE ● LIST
ZARA HOME ● DAVID SADDLER ● MISS SIXTY ● SABON ● TWIN-SET ● FRANCESCHINI ● COCCINELLE ● NUVOLARI ● FABIO DE MARCO ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● LIZA ● FAMAR ● TRIUMPH ● TOWER ●
VI A T ER E NZIO ● CASAGRANDE ● ROSAKI ● EREDI PISANÒ
VIA COLA DI RIENZO
GIORGIO RUBEN ●
NE
● TRANCANELLI
VIA COLA DI RIENZO
PULL STOP ● OTTICA TAGLIAFERRI ● PENNY BOUTIQUE ●
VIA OVIDIO ● RAFI RUBEN ● 7 CAMICIE ● ESOTICA ● BRIAN CRESS ● PAUL TAYLOR ● OPTISSIMO ● ABITART ● PROFUMERIA BERTOZZINI ● CASTRONI
GOLDEN POINT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● TIM ● LUIS SPAGNOLI ● CHOPIN● BENETTON ● DANY BABY ● STEFENAL ● VI A FA BIO M A SSIMO
● PLAY LIFE
MAESANO ●
● YAMAMAY ● DI NEPI
VI A PAO LO E MILIO
WEEKEND MAX MARA ● ANN GIGLI ● ANGELO DI NEPI ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● MAX MARA ● VIA SILLA GENTE ● FELLINI ● COLLAGE ● TIMBERLAND ● GUESS ● NARA CAMICIE ● CHLO ● SISLEY ● PETIT BATEAU ●
ORIGINAL MARINES ●
● BEVERLY HILLS ● OTTICA CHIESA ● FURLA ● LOVABLE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ACCESSORIZE VIA PR OP ER ● HALFON ZIO ● MAMILLA ● GENTE OUTLET ● NAU ! ● RAGGI ● LIU JO ● PAUL BIANCO ● BOGGI
● DESIGUAL ● ● ● ● ●
FELLINI PULL LOVE RAGGI STUDIO LA PERLA DICKINSON
TRENTA 7 Trenta 7’s latest collection of shoes for summer proves that footwear can be both fun and functional. The spring/ summer 2015 collection fnds inspiration in Polynesian culture, evoking the vibrancy of tribal dances and rituals as well as the beauty of the natural landscape. Rafa and jute are combined with exquisite leather, resulting in unexpected elegance, while multicolour tassels add a playful touch.
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Mon Reve, Piazzale del Parco della Rimembranza 10, 00197 Rome, +39 06 6401 4664, trenta7.com
112 | G U I D E
MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: FABIO QUARANTA Fashion designer Fabio Quaranta is known for his modern take on tailoring. In 2010, he won the Who Is On Next? Uomo award in the prêt-à-porter category, and he was also selected for a New Performer prize at Pitti Uomo 79 in 2011. Born in Rome, he still lives and works in the Eternal City – here he shares his favourite haunts with Theresa Harold
‘It’s hard to defne my favourite area, as I’m lucky enough to live in one of the most beautiful cities in the world: Rome. But if I had to choose, I’d have to say Monti – the whole of Esquilino, really. I love it because it has this fresh attitude and yet a conservative feeling at the same time. There are old junk shops, vintage boutiques and a bunch of diferent international groceries. The headquarters of my brand is on Via Giovanni Lanza.
‘My favourite bar has to be Bar D’Amore for its super-relaxed atmosphere. For food, I adore Ristorante La Campana on Vicolo della Campana. It’s the oldest restaurant in the capital and its location – just a stone’s throw away from the Pantheon – makes it the ideal place to soak in the atmosphere after sightseeing. ‘When friends from out of town are visiting, I fnd the simplest way to win them over is to take a walk. I always tell them to
Above (clockwise from lef): the interior of Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere, one of the oldest churches in Rome; Orto Botanico gardens; Porta Portese market; Sacripante Art Gallery; Villa Borghese grounds
PHOTO: XXXXXXX
PHOTO: DREAMWORD CC BY-SA-2.5
fabioquaranta.it
PHOTO: SABRINA MARTUCCI CC BY-SA 2.0
S H O P | 113
PHOTO: STEPHEN DOIG
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leave the map at home and try to let the city inspire and guide you. The best way to get around is by bicycle or on foot – that way you can lose yourself. Try heading towards the historical centre, arriving at Trastevere, south of Vatican City. Go into some of the minor churches that you didn’t know existed – there is always a church you didn’t know about. ‘Then, I might take them to my favourite view in Rome: standing on the
steps of the Pincian hill, overlooking Villa Borghese. I recently discovered the Casa delle Armi building, which is an architectural masterpiece by Luigi Moretti. For drinks we might head to the cocktail bar at the Sacripante Art Gallery on Via Panisperna. ‘On my days of, I take my daughter to the park, maybe the Orto Botanico di Roma, or a fea market. Sometimes, we’ll just stay at home and relax!’
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TRANSLATIONS
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 52: Sustainable Style
В Гармонии С Природой Итальянская индустрия моды делает все больше шагов в сторону эко-мышления: от сотрудничества с Гринпис до внедрения эко-технологий, – рассказывает Салли МакИлхон В последние годы международная индустрия моды все чаще обращается к экологически безвредным технологиям и натуральным тканям. Многие поклонники моды перестали бездумно набивать шкафы сотнями вещей, которые придется выкинуть после одной-двух носок. Вместо этого предпочтение получили качественные классические коллекции, созданные с применением современных экотехнологий. Экологическая ответственность globalblue.com
была признана одной из важнейших проблем, как для итальянской пищевой промышленности, так и для индустрии моды, а также стала одной из главных тем всемирной выставки Expo Milano 2015, которая пройдет с мая по октябрь. Учитывая темпы ежегодного прироста населения, внедрение эко-технологий в индустрию питания становится делом первостепенной важности. Итальянская сеть быстрого питания Eataly уже начала прямое сотрудничество с фермерами, а также производителями сыра и мяса в попытке минимизировать воздействие на окружающую среду и обеспечить беспрерывную поставку экологическичистой продукции. Eataly – одна из многих итальянских компаний, осознавших свою ответственность перед природой. Итальянская индустрия моды решила не отставать, поэтому все чаще внимание уделяется эко-технологиям, инициативам
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Гринпис и капсульным эко-коллекциям. На Миланской Неделе моды осеньзима 2014 Министерство окружающей среды Италии представило свою программу развития модной индустрии в экологическом ключе. Так, учреждение проводит совместную кампанию с организацией Connect4Climate, направленную на снижение углеродных выбросов и потребления воды. К инициативе привлечено уже более 200 компаний, внедривших программы по контролю уровня углерода и минимизации его применения при технологических процессах производства одежды. «Итальянская мода стремится объединить в себе два важных фактора – качество продукции и ее приемлемость с точки зрения экологии, – говорит Коррадо Клини, бывший министр окружающей среды. – Это подразумевает не только имплементацию новых стратегий и производственных процессов, но и, что, возможно, более важно – поиск более современных материалов и инновационных globalblue.com
решений, которые будут способствовать улучшению конкурентоспособности национальной индустрии моды и консолидации ее международного опыта». В последние годы ряд итальянских брендов уже успел продемонстрировать свою приверженность новой стратегии сочетания качества и экологичности. Так в 2011 году, Альберта Ферретти в союзе с британской актрисой Эммой Уотсон выпустила капсульную эко-коллекцию «Pure Treads». В мае 2012 Gucci запустил линию эко-обуви Sustainable Soles, а Diesel создал совместную с Edun коллекцию джинсовой одежды для сезона весна-лето 2013. Марка Edun, основанная Боно и его супругой Али Хьюсон, также стремится изменить ситуацию в лучшую сторону, налаживая сотрудничество с африканскими компаниями. Кроме того, ряд брендов, включая Valentino и Benetton, присоединились к программе Greenpeace Detox, призванной снизить выброс вредных веществ в водные источники. Для Италии этот вопрос
Шоппинг на 15.5% выгоднее, когда вы совершаете покупки с Tax Free Получите карту Global Blue, наслаждайтесь путешествиями и шоппингом в лучших магазинах, экономя при этом до 15.5% от стоимости ваших покупок globalblue.ru/join
особенно актуален, если учесть количество существующих в стране брендов одежды и фабрик, поставляющих для них материалы. Miroglio Group – как раз одна из подобных фабрик, снабжающих тканями такие марки, как Motivi и Elena Mirò. «В последнее время Miroglio Group осуществила ряд важных инвестиций в свои заводы Miroglio Textile в Говоне и Альбе, сделав ставку на технологиях нового поколения, отвечающих всем современным стандартам безопасности окружающей среды, – говорит глава корпорации Джузеппе Мироглио. – Это привело к тому, что компания существенно сократила потребление воды и электроэнергии, а также выбросов СО2 в атмосферу. Таким образом, процесс запущен и в дальнейшем мы планируем строго придерживаться выбранного нами пути». За последние пять лет на международной итальянской выставке тканей Milano Unica было уделено особое внимание производителям эко-текстиля. Итальянская фабрика Canepa одно из тех предприятий, где внедрен инновационный процесс отделки материалов. «Этот процесс основан на использовании биополимеров “kitosan”, созданных с помощью переработанных панцирей креветок, – поясняет Альфонсо Сэбен Канепа, отвечающий за модернизацию производства. – Его можно считать экологичным, поскольку для его реализации затраты энергии и воды снижаются на 40%». Аурора Магни, консультант Milano Unica, отмечает, что на итальянские и европейские заводы распространяются строгие требования в отношении защиты окружающей среды. «Однако этого не вполне достаточно, – считает Магни. – Некоторые производители одежды и ритейлеры все чаще начинают требовать от поставщиков конкретных гарантий, что определенные химические компоненты не были задействованы в технологическом процессе». Кампания Greenpeace Detox призывает мировые бренды одежды быть более ответственными в отношении окружающей globalblue.com
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среды и вести сотрудничество с поставщиками, которые придерживаются высоких экологических стандартов. Milano Unica как раз помогает компаниям в поиске таких поставщиков. «Мы составили весьма ценный каталог производителей текстиля с указанием основных преимуществ той или иной компании в сфере экологической ответственности, – говорит Массимо Мосиелло, генеральный директор Milano Unica. – Для того чтобы поставщик мог попасть в наш каталог, он должен предоставь всю необходимую информацию и данные о производстве. Наша главная цель
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THEY SAID YOU COULDN’T MAKE IT
Roma
Stazione Termini
Via del Corso 48/50 - 413/415
CC Porta di Roma
CC Euroma2
Via Cola di Rienzo 303 - 309
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заключается в том, чтобы клиент получил реальную и надежную информацию о составе ткани и способе ее изготовления». Экологическая ответственность, несомненно, доставляет брендам немало хлопот, но в тоже время полностью себя оправдывает. Ведь теперь клиенты, пришедшие в один из роскошных бутиков Рима, могут быть абсолютно уверены, что все представленные вещи сделаны с заботой о природе. «Много компаний уже осознало преимущество экологической и этической ответственности, – заключает Магни. – В какой-то степени для предприятия это может быть нелегко, однако благодарность и признательность покупателей заставляют идти на риск». 64: In Focus: Fendi
В Фокусе: Fendi Модный дом с ярким характером Fendi объединяет традиционное мастерство с современными инновациями, утверждает Харриет Квик Экзотическая флора и фауна ассоциировались с классической женственностью с тех самых пор, как женщины были впервые изображены в искусстве. Fendi ловко обыграли эту метафору в своей весенне-летней коллекции 2015. Кара Делевинь открыла показ в трапециевидном платье, покрытом рисунком из голубых, розовых и белых орхидей, а ее волосы были собраны в хвост с помощью длинного кожаного листка, который напоминал племенной талисман. В руках у нее была миниатюрная версия сумки бестселлера Fendi Peekaboo. Как и у многих элитных модных домов, истоки Fendi восходят к созданию чемоданов и седел. Первый магазин, небольшое ателье, супруги Адель и Эдоардо Фенди открыли в Риме в 1925 году. Это было время великих художественных открытий и архитектурных экспериментов, компания славилась своим высококлассным мастерством, передовым дизайном и искусно изготовленными кожаными изделиями, которые очаровывали globalblue.com
своей необычностью и новизной, подчеркнутой фирменным цветом бренда – ярко желтым. Пять дочерей супругов Фенди также вскоре начали участвовать в семейном бизнесе, помогая лейблу расти и превратив его в известный модный дом, наняв Карла Лагерфельда, который до сих пор является креативным директором Fendi, в 1960-х. Технологии и приемы, используемые в Fendi, настолько прогрессивны, что зачастую сложно понять, как столь сложная и деликатная по своей конструкции одежда держится вместе. На наряде Кары Делевинь были тонкие вставки, через которые было видно нижний слой тюли, напоминающий латы. Показанные платья из слоев голубых или розовых перьев были обтянуты плетеным ремнем из лакированной кожи на талии для создания иллюзии гибкой «клетки». В других образах на кожаных безрукавках красовались нарисованные вручную принты, вдохновленные метафизическими картинами Джорджо де Кирико. Fendi, которым теперь в основном владеет LVMH, занимает особое место в мире современной роскоши. Модный дом, которому в 2015 году исполняется 90 лет, недавно переехал в восстановленный Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana. Это впечатляющее здание 1940-х, чей фасад состоит из расположенных друг над другом арок, является венцом архитектуры. Теперь оно вмещает студии дизайна, офисы, архивы и коллектив в 400 человек. Оно будет служить архивным залом для демонстрации истории дизайна и многих культовых вещей Fendi, которые разрабатывались и собирались поколениями. Сумка Baguette – одна из таких вещей, модель, которая повлекла за собой моду на «It» сумки в 1997 году. «Меня попросили создать, помимо всего прочего, совершенно простую и функциональную сумку. В определенном смысле она должна была быть технологичной и минимальной, как и все в те времена, - говорит Сильвия Вентурини Фенди, креативный директор аксессуаров и внучка Адель Фенди, - Моим ответом, к счастью, я очень непослушна, стала Baguette – полная противоположность
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тому, что от меня требовали. Успех был невообразимым, она стала одним из самых желанных предметов в мире». С помощью инновационного приложения My Baguette вы теперь можете выбирать детали и цвета на свой вкус. Линия Selleria, запущенная в 1938, характеризуется контрастной строчкой на мягкой, шероховатой романской коже, а очаровательные сумки Fendi Bag Bugs, выполненные из кожи и меха, напоминают небольших зверьков и мультяшек. Bag Bugs достигли культового статуса и теперь красуются в руках таких икон стиля, как редактор японского Vogue Анна Делло Руссо и Соланж Ноулз, которые носят и берегут их как домашних животных. «Вдохновение пришло ко мне, когда я ездила в Бразилию
и увидела там тропических птиц с яркими перьями и хохолками», - говорит Вентурини Фенди. Ряд изделий Fendi также включает в себя мебель ручной работы, парфюмерию – их бестселлером стал аромат Fan di Fendi – часы и знаменитые очки. Креативность явно является семейной чертой: Дельфина Делеттрез, дочь Сильвии Вентурини Фенди, имеет собственный одноименный бренд смелой сюрреалистичной ювелирной продукции. àто Fendi имеет в изобилии, так это характер и чувство юмора, редкое качество в серьезном мире роскоши. Присоединяйтесь к фан-клубу Fendi, и улыбка не будет сходить с вашего лица. fendi.com
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72: Forever Cool
Вечно Стильные
Французский триллер «На ярком солнце», в котором смешалась мода и обман, считается одним из самых стильных фильмов 1960х годов. Действие происходит посреди итальянской Ривьеры, где живет миллионер Филипп Гринлиф. Он даже не подозревает о том, на что готов пойти нищий аферист Том Рипли, чтоб сделать его жизнь своей. Фильм насыщен пронзительной эстетикой; живописные итальянские пейзажи, роскошные яхты, уютные кафе и шикарные апартаменты сочетаются с великолепными нарядами главных героев. Именно благодаря безупречной одежде актеров фильм получил звание самого стильного, и даже спустя 55 лет после премьеры можно ощутить его влияние на современную итальянскую моду. Сцены, снятые на яхте демонстрируют зрителям майки-поло и рубашки с коротким рукавом и цветочным принтом, а также льняные рубашки, заправленные и застегнутые лишь на половину, ведь никому до этого не было дела. Грязно-белые джинсы с замшевыми мокасинами и закатанные к верху брюки цвета хаки с сандалиями на веревочной подошве стали воплощением прибрежного шика, в то время как шелковые костюмы в приглушенных тонах серого, кремового и голубого использовались для съемок в центре Рима. Костюмы темных оттенков в паре с белыми мокасинами и отсутствием носков смутили бы любого эксперта по модному этикету. Полосатый блейзер, рубашки с монограммами и репсовые галстуки дополняют роскошный стиль Гринлифа. Одна из сцен, где Ален Делон, играющий полу-модель полу-маньяка Рипли, бродит по уличному рынку, могла бы запросто быть снята на каком-нибудь подиуме. Делон поражает воображение одним лишь своим globalblue.com
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
Небрежная элегантность, пронизывающая французскую киноленту 1960 года «На ярком солнце», по сей день оказывает влияние на итальянское чувство стиля, – говорит Джош Симс
образом: рубаха с закатанными рукавами и щегольской пиджак, небрежно свисающий с плеча. Зачастую стиль берет верх над содержанием; вместо ожидаемой сцены ареста в финале фильма зрители наблюдают за тем, как Рипли, облеченный в стильные брюки и кардиган свободного покроя, томно прогуливается по песчаному пляжу. Одним из ключевых достоинств
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фильма являются созданные дизайнерами образы. Вещи перестают здесь быть просто одеждой, но становятся костюмами, помогающими героям коренным образом менять свою личность. В одной из сцен, к примеру, Гринлиф застает Рипли за примеркой своего гардероба, повлекшей череду роковых событий. Несмотря на то, что одежда служила в фильме элементом искусного трюка, многие критики из таких изданий, как GQ, Studio Canal и H&M Life считают, что созданные образы привели к возникновению совершенно нового стиля. И даже полвека спустя этот стиль не утратил своей актуальности. «Существует целое поколение тех, кто предпочитает одеваться на роскошный манер, поданный в фильме, тех, кто предпочитает всегда выглядеть безупречно, даже когда под рукой лишь повседневные вещи», – считает британский портной и дизайнер Тимоти Эверест, работавший над созданием костюмов для ремейка фильма 1999 года «Талантливый мистер Рипли». «Это стиль плейбоя: классический, но вместе с тем в меру небрежный и непринужденный, как бы дающий понять, что владельца не заботит его внешний вид, в то время как все как раз наоборот». Этот образ является, по сути, квинтэссенцией стиля состоятельных, вечно загорелых молодых людей из 1960х годов, тех, чьи доходы не счесть, чье время прожигается в бесконечном поиске удовольствий, тех, для кого мир лишь большая площадка для игры. Современная итальянская мода часто ссылается на этот беззаботный стиль, упуская громкие узоры и дополняя его роскошными тканями. Также можно заметить, что в одежде, которую носили Рипли и Гринлиф, нашли отражение элементы итальянской природы. Оттенки размытого белого сочетаются со старинными деревянными конструкциями причалов или плитами древних архитектурных сооружений, оттенки голубого – с волнистым Средиземным морем, а оттенки бледно-розового находят отражение в брезентовых парусах яхты Гринлифа.
Хотя Делон не подбирал себе одежду для съемок «На ярком солнце» – за него это делала костюмер Белла Клемент – стиль беззаботный шик стал для актера неотъемлемым образом жизни: в 1978 году он запустил успешную серию парфюма, а впоследствии – линию одежды и аксессуаров. И все же фильм, обеспечивший ему всемирную славу, придает одежде более глубокий смысл: во-первых, чтобы проиллюстрировать классовое различие героев, уровень образованности и стиль их жизни, а во-вторых, чтобы показать миру, как с помощью одной лишь одежды можно до неузнаваемости преобразить человека. Когда Гринлиф предостерегает Рипли: «Нет, ты не можешь подниматься на борт [моей яхты] в этой обуви», то не совсем ясно, имеется ли ввиду их пригодность для ходьбы по палубе или где-либо вообще. Этот вопрос навсегда останется без ответа. С тех самых пор он не дает покоя многим стилягам. 114: When you shop the world, shop tax free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
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Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €159.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译
52: Sustainable Style 可持续的时尚 无论是报名参加绿色和平组织项目,还是与可持续 的面料生产商合作,意大利时尚行业的生态友好度 正在不断提升。Sally McIlhone报道 近些年来,国际时尚行业开始越来越多地接受环保 的工艺、面料和态度。如今,时尚鉴赏家的目标不是 去拥有一个装满了一次性衣物的大衣橱,而是一个 运用可持续的方法精心构造的产品系列,系列中的 产品可以拥有永恒的价值。可持续性的问题已经成 为了意大利食品与时尚产业的关键问题。这个问题 是如此之重要,以至于它成为了2015年米兰世博会 ( 五月至十月之间举办)的主题之一。 随着世界人口一年年的增加,制定可持续的食 品生产方法成为了一个至关重要的问题。意大利美 食连锁店Eataly与意大利的农民、奶酪生产商和肉 商合作,确保自己库存里拥有最好的原料,并尽小地 减少对环境的影响。Eataly仅仅只是寻求更具可持 续性方法的意大利食品公司之一。意大利的时尚产 业也紧随其后,支持可持续生产方法,致力于绿色和 平组织的倡议,并推出了生态环保的服饰系列。 意大利环境部在2014秋冬季米兰时装周上展 示了一个项目,突出了时尚产业的生态步伐。环境部 与Connect4Climate合作,目的在于通过确认碳管 理实践方法并支持服装生产中的低碳技术,以减少 200多家企业的碳排放量和水资源消耗。 “意大利的时尚体系致力于将产品的质量与对 可持续性问题的深切关注相结合, ”环境部总干事 Corrado Clini说, “这意味着不仅仅只是采用对环 境影响最小的战略和生产工艺,也许更重要的是寻 找新的材料和创造性的解决方法,以提升我们整 个时尚行业的竞争力,巩固我们在国际上的卓越地 位。” 近些年来,许多意大利时尚品牌已经兑现他 globalblue.com
们对质量与可持续发展相结合的承诺。Alberta Ferretti与英国女演员Emma Watson合作,在 2011年推出了一个环保五件套套装系列,并将其 命名为Pure Threads(纯粹织物)。Gucci在2012 年5月推出了自己的环保鞋履系列Sustainable Soles。Diesel与Edun合作推出一个2013年春夏季
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牛仔系列。Edun品牌由摇滚明星Bono和他的妻子 Ali Hewson共同创立,希望通过与非洲的贸易关 系带来积极的改变。 除此以外,包括Valentino和Benetton在内的 诸多品牌报名参加了绿色和平组织的Detox运动, 该运动要求精英服装品牌致力于消除排放到世界
供水中的有毒化学物质。从意大利最著名的设计师 和街头品牌到提供原料的面料生产商,无不参与到 这项承诺运动中。Miroglio 集团为Motivi和Elena Mirò等品牌生产原料,也致力于可持续发展。 “最近几年,Miroglio集团在下一代印刷技术方 面进行了重要投资,以确保设立在Govone和Alba
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的Miroglio纺织工厂环境的可持续性, ”集团主席 Giuseppe Miroglio说, “这带来了水资源和能源消 耗以及二氧化碳排放的显著减少。因此,我们已经 开始这个环保过程,并计划以一种严肃负责的态度 继续追求这样的理念。” 米兰总联合会(Milano Unica),也就是意大 利的国际纺织品博览会,在近五年里越来越关注可 持续纺织企业所展示的面料。Canepa是其中的一 家生产商,它运用了纺织整理的创新工艺。 “这个工 艺基于一种被称为kitosan的生物聚合物,是回收 利用虾壳的结果。”该品牌可持续发展项目的负责人 Alfonso Saibene Canepa解释道, “得益于这种物 质,该工艺是具有可持续性的,因为消耗的能源和水 比传统的纺织工艺要少40%。” 米兰总联合会顾问Aurora Magni指出,意大 利和欧洲的工厂都要遵循关于环境责任的严格规 定。 “然而,尽管这样做很重要,也已经不能满足要求 了, ”Magni说。 “时尚品牌和零售商对供应商的要求 越来越高,要求他们特别保证在生产过程中完全避 免使用某些化学成分。” 绿色和平组织的Detox运动要让时尚品牌承担 责任,确保他们与最环保的生产商合作,符合各类 可持续标准。米兰总联合会帮助品牌与这些有道德 意识的供应商联系。 “我们选择了备受赞赏的技术目 录,作为强调纺织与配件工厂环保设施的工具。”米 兰总联合会总经理Massimo Mosiello说, “为了被 列在这个目录里,公司必须提供真实的信息和文件。 我们的目标是向客户保证,任何关于面料和配件的 信息是真实的、值得信任的,这样识别起来就会更 加容易。” 尽管对可持续性发展的承诺为品牌带来了额外 压力,但它肯定是值得的,因为这意味着罗马著名精 品店里的新衣服是在保护地球而不是伤害它。 “许多 公司已经明白有道德感和有责任感的名声所带来的 竞争优势, ”Magni总结道。 “作为一家有道德感的公 司远非是一件容易的事情,但是市场愿意认可这样 的努力,并给予回报。”
Fendi最畅销的Peekaboo手袋的迷你版。 与诸多奢侈时装品牌类似,Fendi亦以行李箱 与马鞍起家。品牌的首家门店是一间由Adele与 Edoardo Fendi夫妇1925年在罗马成立的小工作 室。这是一个属于伟大艺术探索和建筑实验性创新 的时代,公司以艺匠级手工艺与意识超前的设计为 傲,精美绝伦的手工皮具以其奔放热情与杰出创意 迷倒众生,这一切都以品牌的标志色——亮眼黄色 为标记。创始人夫妇的五个女儿其后也加入了这份 事业,并帮助品牌成为颇具影响力的时尚业巨擎,品 牌从1960年代起就开始聘用Karl Lagerfeld,他至 今仍是Fendi的创意总监。 Fendi所使用的技法与手工艺非常先进,人们 很难看清这些结构如此复杂巧妙的成衣是如何制作 而成的。Cara Delevingne所穿的裙装带有细长切 割,隐约露出底层的薄纱,营造出名副其实的“铠甲” 效果。新款系列中还包括派对礼服裙,腰部装饰有 层叠天蓝或糖粉色羽毛,并以编织腰带收紧固定,以 漆皮面料在四肢部分打造出可伸展“笼子”效果。除 此之外,还有受Giorgio de Chirico的抽象主义绘 画启发设计的手绘图案皮背心。 现由LVMH集团控股持有的Fendi,在当代奢
64: In Focus: Fendi 聚焦:芬迪Fendi 作为个性独具的时尚品牌,Fendi将艺匠级手工与摩 登创新完美融合,Harriet Quick报道 自从女性第一次出现在艺术作品中,异国情调的动 植物就被与女性气质紧密联系。Fendi在2015年春 夏系列中再现了这一主题。超模Cara Delevingne 以一袭印满蓝色、粉色与白色兰花图案的A字裙领 衔开场,她的秀发被皮质长树叶挽起,树叶俏皮地 拍打在她肩膀上,像某个部落的护身符。她还身背 globalblue.com
侈品界占有举足轻重的地位。品牌在2015年迎来90 周年华诞,并于近日迁入了新翻修完成的地标性建 筑——意大利文化宫。这座夺人眼球的1940年代建 筑,四面由叠拱外墙环绕而成,可谓是建筑的胜利, 其中容纳着品牌的设计工作室、办公室、档案馆与 400人规模的团队。这里将汇聚Fendi的设计历史档 案,并陈列品牌多年来推出的标志性设计。 Baguette手袋就是其中一件杰出设计,这件单 品在1997年刚推出就被称为“It” (话题)手袋。 “人们 希望我设计出特别容易使用与功能性强大的包袋。
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在一定意义上,它又要有技术含量又要极为轻便, 要符合当时的社会节奏, ”Adele Fendi的孙女,品 牌的配饰创意总监Silvia Venturini Fendi表示。 “ 我的回答——很幸运我非常固执不听劝——就是 Baguette:恰巧是人们所要求的对立面。这款包袋 获得了空前的成功;它成为了全球最炙手可热的单品 之一。”使用突破性的My Baguette手机应用,你甚 至可以个性化定制自己想要的装饰与颜色。 诞生于1938年的Selleria系列,在柔软、纹理 丰富的Romano皮革上运用醒目的针角组成图案,
而Fendi可爱的Bag Bugs以毛皮与皮革塑造不同 的小动物与卡通人物形象,其中有一款就是以Karl Lagerfeld自己为原型。Bag Bugs在时尚界已拥有 让众人膜拜的地位,并为各界潮流先锋人士所拥有, 从Vogue日本版的Anna Dello Russo到Solange Knowles,她们都把这些娃娃包当宠物一样珍爱,随 身携带。 “我在某次去巴西的旅行中看到了令人惊艳 的热带鸟儿,每只都有着色彩缤纷的羽毛与容貌,于 是灵感就来了, ” Venturini Fendi告诉我们。 Fendi的时尚王国还包括手工制家具、香水——
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其中最畅销的是Fan di Fendi——此外还有腕表 与个性独具的太阳眼镜。艺匠手工显然在家族中 得以传承:Silvia Venturini Fendi的女儿Delfna Delettrez也拥有自己大胆、超现实风格的珠宝线。 让Fendi脱颖而出的是突出的个性与幽默 感——在严肃的奢侈品世界中相当罕见的品质。步 入Fendi的世界,你必定会微笑着满意而归。
72: Forever Cool 永远前卫 弥漫着艺术般优雅的1960年代电影《阳光普照》 (Plein Soleil),至今仍深深影响着意大利的时尚 风格。Josh Sims报道 以时尚与欺骗为主题的法国惊悚片《阳光普照》 (Plein Soleil),被认为是60年代最具时尚感的 影片之一。主要剧情是在风景迷人的意大利里维埃 拉,贫穷的主人公Tom Ripley结识了富裕的朋友 Philippe Greenleaf,并意图窃取他的身份。该片 以其风格强烈的美学;如画的意大利风光;豪华游 艇、广场咖啡店和单身公寓,以及片中毫无争议的明 星,Ripley与Greenleaf 的衣橱而著名。正是片中明 星的衣着让其成为史上最时尚的电影之一,在该片 诞生55周年之际,它对于今日意大利时尚风格的影 响力仍卓著非凡。 该片的游艇场景仿佛是马球衫和花卉短袖衬衫 的秀场,宽松的亚麻衬衫下摆一半塞进裤腰间,纽 扣总是至少敞开到胸部中央,潇洒倜傥。老实讲,人 们也不想让他们的衣领合起。灰白色牛仔裤搭配麂 皮乐福便鞋,卷起的卡其裤则配以帆布鞋演绎海滩 时尚,灰色、浅奶油与蓝色调的山东绸西装则为片中 的罗马场景增色不少。深色西服与白色便鞋搭配的 方式或许会让时尚礼仪专家脸红,而袜子则从未出 现过。还有条纹划船夹克,一系列字母图案衬衣与领 带共同打造出主人公Greenleaf 的上流精英风格。 在一幕冗长的镜头中,Ripley流连于街头市场, 这一幕就像是直接从T台上照搬而来的一样,阿兰 德龙扮演的Ripley看上去既像男模特,又像一个疯 子。德龙甚至完美演绎了一个有些泛滥的造型,就是 将衬衫袖子卷起,并将外套搭在肩膀上。风格往往 会超越物质;影片最后的镜头不是预料中的逮捕场 景,而是Ripley身着裤装与棒针羊毛衫,在海滩漫 步的样子。 这部影片中隐藏的主题之一,是服装也可被用 作是道具,而非只是演员造型中的一部分;剧中角 色也会穿上不同的服装来扮演他人。例如在一幕 中,Greenleaf发现Ripley正在试穿自己的衣服,这 为之后的事件形成铺垫。即便如此,该片不但以高超 技巧进行服装搭配,还被来自GQ、Studio Canal globalblue.com
与H&M Life等媒体的评论员纷纷引用,作为一整 套装扮风格的基础。 这种风格延续了半个世纪以上的时间。 “又有新 一代人开始以一种更为张扬奢华的方式模仿这种风 格,让自己即便衣着休闲也看上去精气神十足, ”英 国裁缝与设计师Timothy Everest 表示,他负责打 造1999年重拍电影《天才雷普利》(The Talented MrRipley)的戏服。 “这就是花花公子风格:经典但 以休闲随意的方式穿着,暗示自己资本充裕并且自信 十足,给人无需多关注衣着的感觉,实际上倾注了大 量精力塑造自己。” 这种造型基本就是对1960年代早期富裕、热爱 日光浴的阶层所钟爱风格的提炼,他们拥有源源不 断的金钱与闲暇时间,可以将地球视为一个游乐场。 当代意大利时尚经常参考这种艺术化的休闲风格, 避免使用嘈杂的图案,运用奢华面料但将其打造成 精心设计的懒散样子。Ripley与Greenleaf 的服装 同样暗合了意大利的自然环境。水洗白色调用来与 码头上的旧木或是古建筑上的石雕对比,蓝色系用 于衬托地中海,淡粉色调则与Greenleaf 游艇上的 帆布与风帆呼应。 尽管电影《阳光普照》中的阿兰德龙并没有为 自己装扮——这是服装设计师Bella Clément的功 劳——看似毫不费力的时髦感成为这位演员终身仰 仗的法宝:在1978年,他成功推出了一款香水,紧接 着是服装及配饰系列。即便如此,这部他赖以成名 的电影在服装使用上更具深层含义:解码性格—— 彰显阶级、教育与生活方式上的差异——并且暗示 在简单变装之后,这些差异对于整个世界而言是可 以转化的。当Greenleaf告诫Ripley说, “不,你不能 穿这双鞋登上[我的游艇], ”我们不确信是否因为这 双鞋不适合在甲板上行走,还是不适合在任何地方 穿着。这个问题从未得到解答,直到现在,时尚追随 者们仍在考虑这个问题。
114: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球,尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时, 环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错过?您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 (Global Blue)服务,然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程:
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2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后再到环球蓝联 退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€159.94并且节约高达购买价格15.5%的金 额。请注意:最终退款将包含增值税总额,但是要扣 除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位 收取现金退税手续费。 日本語翻訳
52: Sustainable Style 持続可能なスタイル グリーンピースのイニシアチブに参加したり、持続可 能なファブリック生産者と協働したり、イタリアのフ ァッション業界はますますエコ・フレンドリーになっ てきている。サリー・マキルホーンがレポートする。
近年、国際ファッション業界では、エコ・フレンドリ ーな生産工程、ファブリック、姿勢を一層熱心に追 求するようになっている。現代のファッション通が目 指すのは、使い捨ての衣服を満載した膨大なワード ローブではなく、むしろ持続可能性に配慮した手法 で作った仕立てが良く時代を超越した衣服で上手に 構成されたワードローブを持つことだ。持続可能性 は、イタリアの食品産業とファッション産業が共に認 識しており、5月から10月にかけて開催される2015年 ミラノ国際博覧会のメインテーマの一つになっている くらいだ。 世界 的 評 判が 年々高まる中、持 続 可能な 食 品生 産手法を確 立することが 極めて重 要になっ ている。イタリアン・デリのチェーン、イータリー (Eataly)では、この国の農家やチーズ生産者、食 肉生産者と協力してできる限り上質な食材を揃える と共に、環境への影響を極力抑える努力をしてい る。イータリーは、持続可能性を追求するイタリアの 多くの食品会社のほんの一例に過ぎない。イタリア のファッション産業も食品産業の例に倣い、持続可 能な生産手法を支持し、グリーンピースのイニシアチ ブに取り組み、エコ・フレンドリーなカプセルコレクシ ョンを発売している。 ミラノ・ファッションウィークの2014 年秋冬コレ クションでは、イタリアの環境省がファッション産業 のエコ・フットプリントを強調するプログラムを提供
PHOTO: ANDREA ERDNA BARLETTA
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form)。
PHOTO: DAVIDE SALA © 2014
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した。同省はConnect4Climateと共同で、衣料品生 産における炭素排出管理の慣行を明らかにし、低炭 素技術を支援することにより、200 社以上の炭素排 出と廃水を削減することを目指している。 「イタリアファッション全体で、製品の品質と持 続可能性への深い関心を組み合わせていく決意で す」と、コラド・クリーニ環境相は話す。 「これは、環 境への影響を最小限に抑えた戦略や生産プロセス を採用するだけに留まりません。おそらくそれより重 要なのは、イタリアのファッション業界の競争力を高 め、国際的優位を確立するための新素材や革新的な ソリューションの追求でもあるということです。」 このところ、イタリアのファッションレーベルの 多くが品質と持続可能性の融合に取り組んできて いる。アルベルタ・フェレッティは2011年に、英国人 女優のエマ・ワトソンと組んで、5つのアイテムから 成るカプセルコレクション「ピュア・スレッド」を製作 した。グッチでは2012 年5月に「サステナブル・ソー ル」というフットウェアのレンジを発売。ディーゼルは 2013年春夏のデニムコレクションを、イードゥンとの コラボレーションで製作した。ボノと妻のアリ・ヒュ ーソンが創設したレーベル「イードゥン」は、アフリカ との貿易関係を通して正の変革を実現することを目 globalblue.com
標にしている。 さらに、ヴァレンティノやベネトンなどのブランド がグリーンピースの「デトックス・キャンペーン」に参 加している。同キャンペーンでは、衣料品のトップレ ーベルに世界の水源に有害化学物質を排出しない よう呼びかけている。イタリアの取り組みは大物デ ザイナーやハイストリートブランドに限らず、それらに 素材を提供するファブリックメーカーにも広がってい る。モティヴィやエレナ・ミロにファブリックを提供す るミログリオ・グループは、持続可能性の追求を約 束している。 「ミログリオ・グループは近年、ゴヴォーネとア ルバにあるミログリオのテキスタイル工場で環境面の 持続可能性を確保するために、次世代プリント技術 に重要な投資を行ってきました」と、同グループのジ ュゼッペ・ミログリオ会長はいう。 「そうした投資の おかげで、水とエネルギーの消費量と二酸化炭素排 出量が大幅に減りました。このように、わが社では既 に持続可能性実現のプロセスを開始しており、今後 もこの理念を真剣に、責任をもって追求していく計 画です。」 イタリアで開催される国際テキスタイル見本市「 ミラノ・ウニカ」でもここ5年、持続可能なテキスタイ
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ことをクライアントに保証し、識別を容易にすること です。」 持続可能性への取り組みを約束することは、ブ ランドにとっては一層のプレッシャーになるが、ロー マの一流ブティックに並ぶ新しい衣料品が地球を傷 つけることなく、むしろ保護していると思えば、それも 甲斐があるというもの。 「多くの企業が、倫理的で責 任ある企業という評判が立てば競争上有利だという ことを理解しています。倫理的な企業であることは決 して容易ではありませんが、市場にはそうした努力を 認識し、それに報いようという姿勢があります」とい うのがマグニの結論だ。
ルメーカーのファブリックの展示にますます力を入れ ている。そうしたメーカーの一つが、テキスタイルの 仕上げに革新的なプロセスを取り入れているカネパ だ。 「このプロセスは、エビの殻をリサイクルしてでき るキトサンというバイオポリマーが基本になっていま す」と、同ブランドの持続可能性追求プログラムを率 いるアルフォンソ・サイベネ・カネパはいう。 「持続可 能性があるというのは、このキトサンのおかげでエネ ルギーと水の消費量が従来のテキスタイル生産プロ
64: In Focus: Fendi 注目のブランド:フェンディ
PHOTO: DAVIDE SALA © 2014
パーソナリティあふれるファッションハウス、フェンデ ィは職人技と現代的な革新を融合させている。ハリ エット・クイックがレポートする。
セスに比べて40%削減されたからです。」 ミラノ・ウニカのコンサルタント、アウロラ・マグ ニは、イタリアをはじめとするヨーロッパの紡績工場 は環境に対する企業責任に関して厳しい規則を守ら なければならないと指摘する。 「もちろん、そうした 規則の遵守は重要ですが、もうそれだけでは十分で なくなってきています。ファッションブランドや小売 店から仕入先への要求が強まっており、生産工程で 特定の化学物質を全く使用しないという具体的な保 証を求められるようになっているのです。」 グリーンピースのデトックス・キャンペーンでは ファッションブランドの責任を指摘し、各種の持続 可能性基準が満たされるように最もエコ・フレンドリ ーな生産者から仕入れるよう呼びかけている。ミラ ノ・ウニカでは、そうした倫理的な仕入先とブランド の橋渡しをしている。同見本市のゼネラルマネージャ ー、 マッシモ・モジエッロによれば、 「テキスタイルや アクセサリーの工場の環境配慮を強調できるように するためのツールとして技術カタログを製作し、好評 を得ています」という。 「企業がこのカタログに掲載 されるには、事実情報と文献を提出しなければなり ません。私たちの狙いは、ファブリックやアクセサリ ーに関する情報全てが真実で信頼できるものである
女性がはじめて芸術作品に描かれた時から、エキゾ チックな花々や動物は古典的な女らしさと結び付け られてきた。フェンディは2015 年春夏コレクション で、そうしたイメージの連想を巧みに現代化してみせ た。ショーの幕開けは、青とピンクと白の蘭のモチ ーフを全面に散らしたAラインドレスをまとったカー ラ・デルヴィーニュ。後ろで束ねた髪には革製の蘭 の髪飾り。長い葉っぱが肩で弾んで、部族のお守り のようだ。手にはフェンディのベストセラー、新しく出 たピーカブー・バッグのミニチュア版を提げている。 高級ファッションハウスの多くと同様に、フェン ディも元々は旅行カバンと鞍のメーカーだった。第 一号店は、アデーレとエドアルドのフェンディ夫妻が 1925年にローマにオープンした小さなアトリエだ。 当時は偉大なる芸術的発見や建築の実 験が行わ れた時代で、同社も職人技と先見性あるデザイン を誇りとし、鮮やかな黄色のハウスカラーで熱意と 革新を強調した美しい造りの革製品で買い物心を くすぐった。しばらくして夫妻の5人の娘も家業に入 り、1960年代にはカール・ラガーフェルドを機用して フェンディをファッション大手へと成長させていく。 ラガーフェルドは、今でも同ブランドのクリエイティ ブ・ディレクターを務めている。 フェンディが用いる技巧は今や進歩が著しく、 複雑で繊細な造りの服がどのように一体になってい るのか、わかりづらいこともしばしばだ。カーラ・デ ルヴィーニュが着ていたシフトドレスは、細い切れ 目の間からチュール地がのぞく分節構造の鎧のよう な造りになっている。スカイブルーやシュガーピンク の羽を何層にも重ね、ウェストを編みベルトで締め
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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たり、胴の部分に裂け目を入れた漆革を使って柔軟 な「檻」のように造ったパーティドレスもある。その 他、革のベストはジョルジョ・デ・キリコの形而上絵 画に発想を得た手描きのモチーフが特徴だ。 現在は LVMHが支配株主となっているフェン ディは、現代の高級品市場で中軸的な位置づけにあ る。2015年に創立90周年を迎えるこのファッション ハウスは最近、新しく修復されたランドマーク的な建 物、パラッツォ・デッラ・チヴィルタ・イタリアーナに 入居した。アーチを何層にも積み上げたような外壁 が印象的なこの1940年代の建物は建築の偉業とい えるもので、中にはデザインスタジオをはじめオフィス や文書庫があり、400名のスタッフが勤務している。 フェンディのデザインの歴史を物語るショーケース的 globalblue.com
役割もあり、このブランドが長年にわたって創り出し た多くの代表的デザインが展示されている。 その一つがバゲットバッグ。1997年にいわゆる「 究極の」バッグブームを巻き起こした作品だ。 「いろ いろあった要望の中に、とりわけ使いやすくて機能 的なハンドバッグをというのがあったんです。ある意 味で、ちょうどその時代のように技術を駆使したミニ マルなものを創るという課題でした」と、アデーレ・フ ェンディの孫娘でクリエイティブ・ディレクターのシル ヴィア・ヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディは振り返る。 「と ころが私はどうも反抗的でして、それが幸いして生ま れたのがバゲット。要望とは正反対のバッグでした。 それが前代未聞の成功を収め、世界で最も望まれる 商品の一つになったのです。」今ではマイ・バゲット
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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という画期的なアプリを使って、自分で飾りや色を 選ぶことができるようになっている。 1938 年に発売されたセレリアラインは、肌目の 粗いしなやかなロマーノレザーにコントラストの効い たステッチが自慢。毛皮とレザーでできた愛らしい バッグバグは小動物や漫画のキャラクターを象った もので、カール・ラガーフェルド自身のもある。バッ グバグはファッション界でカルト的人気を博し、ヴォ ーグ・ジャパンのアンナ・デッロ・ルッソからソランジ ュ・ノウルズまで多くのスタイルアイコンが提げ、ペッ トのように可愛がっている。 「インスピレーションは 私がブラジルを旅していた時に見た素晴らしい熱帯 鳥で、それぞれが美しい色とりどりの羽根や羽毛を持 っていました」というヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディ。
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フェンディの世界には、手作りの家具や香水(ベ ストセラーはシンプルに「ファン ディ フェンディ」と 呼ばれている)、時計、個性的なサングラスなどもあ る。職人気質は明らかに家系だ。シルヴィア・ヴェン チュリーニ・フェンディの娘のデルフィーナ・デレット レーズは、大胆でシュールなジュエリーの商品ライン も出している。 フェンディに個性とユーモアのセンスがあるの は紛れもない。シリアスな高級品業界では稀な特性 だ。フェンディの世界に足を踏み入れれば笑顔にな ること間違いなしだ。 fendi.com
72: Forever Cool 永遠の粋人
ファッションと欺瞞をテーマにしたフランスのサスペ ンス映画『太陽がいっぱい』は、1960年代きっての スタイリッシュな映画の一つと言われている。優雅な イタリアンリヴィエラを舞台に、貧しいトム・リプリー がお金持ちのフィリップ・グリンリーフと親しくなり、 そのアイデンティティを盗もうとするストーリーだ。こ の映画は美的印象の強さで知られ、絵ハガキに出て くるようなイタリアの風景や豪華ヨット、街の広場に あるカフェ、独身貴族のアパートメントなど麗しい映 像が満載だが、中でも出色なのはリプリーとグリンリ ーフのワードローブだ。この作品を映画史上最もス タイリッシュなものにしたのは出演スターの装いであ り、その影響は封切55周年を目前にした今もなおイ タリアのスタイル観にはっきり表れている。 ヨットのシーンは洋上のファッションショーさな がらで、ポロシャツや花柄プリントの半そでシャツ、 ゆったりしたリネンのシャツは裾をわざと半分出し前 をいつも半ばはだけた状態で、それ以上ボタンを留 めるのが面倒とでもいうような風情。オフホワイトの ジーンズにスナッフルビット・ローファー、裾をたくし 上げたカーキのパンツにエスパドリーユといった装 いは、まさに海辺のシックの典型だ。一方、ローマを 舞台としたシーンでは、グレーや薄いクリーム、ブル ーといった抑えた色調のシャンタンシルクのスーツが 街の風景に映える。ダークスーツに白のローファーと いった、ファッションエチケットの専門家が見たら赤 面するような組み合わせも難なくキメている。足元は もちろんノー・ソックス。それにストライプのボーティ ングブレザー、モノグラムプリントのシャツ一式、厳 globalblue.com
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
1960 年代の映画『太陽がいっぱい』で随所に見ら れる絶妙に着崩した優雅な装いが、今もなおイタリ ア人のスタイル感覚に影響を与えている。ジョッシ ュ・シムズがレポートする。
選したレップタイで、グリンリーフのジェット族スタイ ルは完成だ。 リプリーがストリートマーケットをうろつく長回 しのシーンは、キャットウォークをそのままもってき たといってもおかしくないほどで、アラン・ドロン演じ るリプリーが半分モデル、半分狂人に見える。シャツ の袖をまくり上げ、片肩越しにブレザーを引っ掛けて お決まりのキメポーズをとって見せるのだ。この映画 は、ストーリーそのものよりスタイルを重視した感も 強い。例えばラストシーンは、観客がじりじりしなが ら待っていた逮捕の映像ではなく、水泳パンツに厚 手のカーディガンを羽織った粋な姿のリプリーがビ ーチを漫ろ歩く姿で終わる。 映画の根底にあるテーマの一つは、洋服がいか にコスチュームになり得るかだ。役を演じる俳優が着 るだけでなく、キャラクター自身が他人に成りすます ためにコスチュームとして着る。例えば、リプリーがグ リンリーフの服を試しに着ているところへグリンリー フ本人が現れるシーンがあり、後の展開の伏線とな っている。このように、映画では策略の道具として使 われている衣装だが、GQ、スタジオ・カナル、H& M ライフをはじめとする各誌の評論家は、一つの完全 なスタイルの基礎を成したとコメントしている。 しかもそれは、半世紀以上を経た今も通用する スタイルだ。 「この映画にインスピレーションを得て、
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ンスの成功を皮切りに、洋服やアクセサリーにも進 出していく。それはさておき、ドロンを有名にしたこ の映画では、服はより深いレベルの役割を担ってい る。階級や教育、ライフスタイルの違いを見せること でキャラクターを体系化した上で、世間の目に映るそ うした違いは服を変えるだけで簡単に覆すことがで きることをほのめかしているのだ。グリンリーフがリ プリーに向かって「おっと、そんな靴じゃ僕のヨット には乗せられないな」と注意するシーンがあるが、デ ッキに向かない靴だという意味なのか、場所を問わ ず感心しない靴だといっているのか、今一つはっきり しない。この問いは答えられず終いで、スタイルにこ だわる人にとっては永遠の悩みの種になっている。
114: When you shop the world, shop tax free
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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いかにも豊かな装い、ごくカジュアルでありながらキ レのある装いを目指す新しい世代がいます」と、イギ リスの仕立て屋でデザイナーのティモシー・エベレス トはいう。1999年のリメーク『リプリー』で衣装を担 当したエベレストいわく、 「それはプレイボーイのスタ イル。伝統的なアイテムを着崩し、金と自信があって 他人にどう見られようと気にしないといった風情を醸 し出すのです。そのために実はいろいろ苦心している んですが、そんなことはおくびにも見せません。」 つまり、リゾートで日焼けした富裕層、金と暇が 有り余っていて世の中を遊び場だと思える1960年代 初頭の有閑階級が好んだ服装のエッセンスといって いいスタイルだ。モダンイタリアンファッションはこの 巧妙にくつろいだスタイルをよく参考にし、うるさい 柄を避け、高級生地を取り入れて、細心の注意を払 って着崩したルックスに仕立てている。リプリーやグ リンリーフが着た服はイタリアの風景にも呼応してい る。桟橋の古木材や古い石造りの建物を背景に洗 いざらした白系、鮮やかな地中海を背景に青色系の 衣装を配し、グリンリーフのヨットのカンバス地の帆 には淡いピンク色を反映している。 『太陽がいっぱい』でドロンのスタイリングをし たのは彼自身ではなくコスチュームデザイナーのベ ラ・クレマンだが、何気ないシックさはドロンの生涯 を通じた売りになった。1978 年に発売したフレグラ
グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に なります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。
1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を受け取ってくだ さい。
2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタ ンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還 付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €159.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高 15.5%の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻 し額は、付加価値税(VAT)合計から事務手数料 を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ さい。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望 の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され ます。
138 | P RO D U C T S
SOUVENIR
SCARVES OF SIX CITIES Emilio Pucci has revisited the iconic Battistero scarf design to create a special six-piece collection called Cities of the World. The original Battistero scarf, released in 1957, is a brightly coloured print of the Piazza Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence, sketched by Emilio Pucci, the founder of the brand, himself. The new collection pays homage to Rome, Florence, New York, Paris, Shanghai and Hong Kong, with sketches hand-drawn in the house atelier in a style sympathetic to the original. Inspired by architectural landmarks, the scenes depict Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114
avenue Montaigne in Paris, the Shanghai skyline, Hong Kong’s skyscrapers and New York’s Central Park. The Rome edition pictured here shows the city’s historical Spanish Steps, in vivid hues of fuchsia and turquoise. Printed in the silk district of Como, the scarves are made from the fnest twill, hand-fnished by artisans and presented in a brightly coloured gift box. The Rome edition makes an ideal keepsake to take home from the city. gl Emilio Pucci Rome Cities of the World scarf, €295, Emilio Pucci, Piazza di Spagna 87, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 4058, emiliopucci.com * for map go to page 92