SHOP Rome SS18

ROME | 罗马 | РИМ | ローマ

ROME Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2018

DISCOVER ROME: explore the highlights of this spectacular city with our insider’s guide

ROMA Via del Corso, 122 - Via Cola di Rienzo, 245 Viale Europa, 70 - Galleria Comm. Porta di Roma

VIA COLA DI RIENZO 151/153, ROME

EDITOR’S LETTER

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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this beautiful city. Rome has much to offer, as our guide on page 58 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class fashion will enjoy our feature on the reinvention of the office suit (page 40), and in this issue we also take a look at Italy’s inspirational homeware brands (page 50). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Rome. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app, which is available now – find all the details in our news section in this issue. Calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

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Welcome to Rome

CONTRIBUTORS RUI RICARDO

BETH DRUCE Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer, and also works as a consultant for a variety of fashion companies. After gaining an MA from Central Saint Martins in London, she began her career at GQ magazine. globalblue.com

ONUR UNALTAY SHOP’s artworker Onur Unaltay studied graphic design at Middlesex University. He has designed men’s clothing for various international companies and is an avid fan of football, hip hop and fashion.

REBECCA RHYS-EVANS SHOP’s fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans has a degree in American literature and cultures from Liverpool University and formerly worked at Flannels.com. She has previously written for several fashion brands and magazines.

ILLUSTRATION: RUI RICARDO – FOLIO ART

Rui Ricardo created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Rome. His elegant style is perfectly showcased with this striking image of the city’s famous Spanish Steps, which he has transformed into a catwalk. Rui’s other clients include the Wall Street Journal, British Airways and Esquire. Discover SHOP Rome and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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PUBLISHING

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Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne, Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan

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Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Umberto Panizzut, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino, Account managers Mirko Ardita, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi Diana Martin, Elisa Narducci, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue

ROMA VIA FRATTINA 42/43 CENTRO COMM. EUROMA 2 CENTRO COMM. PORTA DI ROMA LOC. BUFALOTTA VIA APPIA NUOVA 7/11

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CONTENTS

PRODUCTS 22

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Rome this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

NEWS 32

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Rome News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

FEATURES 40

Adventures In Workwear On the spring/summer 2018 catwalks, Italy’s leading menswear designers presented a new vision of office dressing, as Beth Druce reports

Art At The Heart Of The Home Italy’s top interiors brands share a flair for artistic flamboyance and top-quality craftsmanship, as Rebecca Rhys-Evans discovers

Above (clockwise from top left): Delfina Delettrez earring, spring/summer 2018; Geranium collection by Missoni Home; Fendi; Brunello Cucinelli, both spring/summer 2018

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) S.CESARONI; (BOTTOM RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

ROMA Via Frattina, 84/B V.le Libia, 19 Via del Tritone, 30 Via Tuscolana, 883/A Via Vittorio Veneto, 130 Piazza Enrico Fermi, 8 Via Cola di Rienzo, 191 Centro Comm.le Euroma2 Via Appia Nuova, 63

CONTENTS

ROME GUIDE 58

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome

ESSENTIALS 78

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 80 中文翻译 83 Русский Перевод 87 日本語翻訳

SOUVENIR 90

The essential item to bring home

EN G L IS H | РУССКИЙ | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru 访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游信息，每日更新

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopmagazine_ Above: Prada bag, spring/summer 2018

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MEREDITH BRADEN BUCHER

CHECK OUT

Renowned jeweller Delfina Delettrez is particularly admired for the way she uses classical goldsmith techniques to produce innovative, modern pieces. Born into the Fendi family, she has an inherent talent for creating bold designs, and her To Bee Or Not To Bee collection perfectly exemplifies this. Launched earlier this year as a new part of her permanent collection, the honeycomb and bee range is proving a great hit. In keeping with the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aim to offer top quality with a little quirkiness, the pictured beehive Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

earrings are made of the finest materials, including nine-carat yellow gold, black diamonds, yellow sapphires and citrines. They combine painstaking Italian craftsmanship and contemporary style. rre Delfina Delettrez earrings, â&#x201A;Ź3,200, Delfina Delettrez, Via del Governo Vecchio 67, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 4105, delfinadelettrez.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 76

PHOTO: S.CESARONI

ALL ABUZZ

SHOP AT TESTONI.COM

24 | P R O D U C T S

Max Mara sunglasses, €260, Max Mara, Via dei Condotti 17-18, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 21045, maxmara.com

PRETTY IN PINK

Miu Miu bracelet, €490, Miu Miu, Via del Babuino 91, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 4884, miumiu.com

Be the essence of femininity with a rose pink dress and retro-inspired accessories

Coccinelle clutch bag, €248, Coccinelle, Via del Corso 59-60, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3265 0931, coccinelle.com

Aquazzura shoes, €655, Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, aquazzura.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

Longchamp dress, €890, Longchamp, Piazza di Spagna 82, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4547 9030, longchamp.com

Roma House of Samsonite Via del Tritone 149

Samsonite.com

#VERYPERSONALACCESSORIES

26 | P R O D U C T S

Chloë sunglasses, €315, Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, chloe.com

Pinko blazer, €390, Pinko, Via Frattina 101-103, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6929 4666, pinko.com

POWER PAIRING

Opt for a pastel lace suit to be on-trend and formal this season

Louis Vuitton bag, €3,350, Louis Vuitton, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 41, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 9520, louisvuitton.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax ree, see page 78

Etro shoes, price on request, Etro, Via del Babuino 102, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 8257, etro.com

PHOTOS: (BLAZER & TROUSERS) TOMMASO VECCHI

Pinko trousers, €275, Pinko, Via Frattina 101-103, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6929 4666, pinko.com

MAXMARA.COM ROME - VIA DEI CONDOTTI, 17 - VIA NAZIONALE, 28 VIA FRATTINA, 28 - VIA UGO OJETTI, 31 (FRANCHISEE MAX MARA)

28 | P R O D U C T S

Salvatore Ferragamo earrings, €320, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via dei Condotti 73-74, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 1130, ferragamo.com

Sportmax jeans, €155, Sportmax, Via Borgognona 7, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0967, sportmax.com

CASUAL LUXE

Tommy Hilfiger top, €50, Tommy Hilfiger, Piazza dell’Unità 48-49, 00192 Rome, +39 06 321 1471, globaltommy.com

Wear denim with statement accessories and a pair of mules to create an off-duty look

Benetton belt, €16.95, United Colors of Benetton, Via del Tritone 99-100, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4201 6206, benetton.com

Céline bag, €1,600, Céline, Via dei Condotti 20A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 7594, celine.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

Boss shoes, €295, Boss, Via Frattina 136, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6173, hugoboss.com

30 | P R O D U C T S

Moncler sunglasses, €200, Moncler, Piazza di Spagna 77, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0292, moncler.com

Omega watch, €5,100, Omega, Via dei Condotti 38-40, 00187 Rome, +39 06 697 9151, omegawatches.com

Ermanno Scervino belt, €250, Ermanno Scervino, Via del Babuino 97, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3173, ermannoscervino.com

INTO THE BLUE For a relaxed summer style mix shades of azure and indigo with silver

Happy Plugs earphones, €34.99, Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, happyplugs.com

Tod’s trainers, €450, Tod’s, Via dei Condotti 53A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1089, tods.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

Tumi suitcase, €660, Tumi, Via del Babuino 57, 00187 Rome, +39 06 323 5346, tumi.com

S H O P | 31

Corneliani travel wallet, €300, Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, corneliani.com

Canali blazer, €1,040, Canali, Via del Babuino 59, 00187 Rome, +39 06 320 7276, canali.com

THE TAILORED TOUCH A check summer blazer bridges the gap between smart and casual, elevating any ensemble

PHOTO: (SHOES) RICHARD DAVID GREEN

Cos trousers, €69, Cos, Via Borgognona 36, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3283 2707, cosstores.com

Moreschi bag, €890, Moreschi, Via Frattina 47, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 1305, moreschi.it

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Jimmy Choo shoes, €550, Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2667, jimmychoo.com

SHOP WINDOW

POLLINI’S DOUBLE ACT Italian footwear and accessories label Pollini has recently opened two boutiques in Rome. The new stores, one on Via Cola di Rienzo and one on Via del Babuino, offer striking selections of men’s and women’s shoes, bags and small leather goods. Pollini has been creating luxurious handcrafted shoes since 1953, later adding bags and accessories made to equally impeccable standards. Its collections offer a mix of classic styles and fashion-forward designs; there’s something Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

here for every taste. The Pollini monogram was recently rediscovered in the brand’s archives and is celebrated in the Heritage collection; in the Via Cola di Rienzo boutique there’s an exclusive area dedicated to this range. hl Pollini, Via Cola di Rienzo 242, 00192 Rome, +39 06 683 2111, pollini.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 77

Claire

Campbell

HIGH Shop • Via Frattina 31/32, Roma • T 06 6792667 high-everydaycouture.com

34 | N E W S

EYE OPENER Los Angeles eyewear specialist Oliver Peoples has opened its first Italian boutique, which is located on Rome’s Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina. The brand’s shops normally take inspiration from the California mid-century design aesthetic, but this intimate new space has been devised with reference to Italian architecture from the same period. The tiled floor has been created in the style of architect Carlo Scarpa, and all the furniture has been custom-made by Italian craftsmen. Pop in to discover a wide array of sunglasses and spectacles for men and women, including new and classic styles as well as pieces from a collaboration with fashion label The Row. An on-site optician makes sure customers leave with exactly what they need. hl Oliver Peoples, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 39, 00186 Rome, +39 06 683 2708, oliverpeoples.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

CLASSIC CASHMERE Italian cashmere brand Brunello Cucinelli turns 40 this year. Since its beginnings in 1978 the label has become synonymous with timeless style, top quality and attention to detail, and this year’s spring/summer men’s collection stays particularly true to these values. The collection is based around warm, soft tones of the desert and urban notes such as greys and blues, and it also offers brighter colours including strawberry and violet. Leisure and tailored fits define this season’s silhouettes, with jackets being a staple. Spanning everything from suits, T-shirts and knits to accessories and footwear, Brunello Cucinelli offers a well-rounded wardrobe for the modern man. grc Brunello Cucinelli, Via Borgognona 33, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 7680, brunellocucinelli.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

S H O P | 35

IN BRIEF For spring/summer 2018, Rome’s famous hat brand Borsalino turns to the Federico Fellini film La Dolce Vita for inspiration. Besides updates on classic Borsalino shapes for men, or wide-brimmed styles for women, this season’s collection includes baseball caps, bucket hats and flat caps in linen and cotton

STEP FORWARD FOR SUMMER Look no further than Loriblu’s spring/summer 2018 collection for striking accessories and summerready footwear for all occasions, from formal functions to more casual events. The Eyes in the Sky range includes details such as pearls, Swarovski crystals and studs as well as new colourways featuring a new nappa leather colour palette of coral, cobalt blue, black and beige. The pictured blue and cream heeled sandals (€420) are ideal for summer daytime events. Or choose from a range of globalblue.com

shimmering metallic styles for the evening. Bags in the collection include backpacks, totes and cross-body satchels, meaning there’s a style for every event. rre

Loriblu, Piazza di Spagna 2A, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6992 1910, loriblu.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

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TAILORING FOR TODAY The Malloni group dates back to the end of the 1950s, to a small shoe factory in central Italy where three generations of the Malloni family created a unique brand based on top-quality craftsmanship. Today the group combines Italian tailoring traditions with avant-garde attitude, producing clothing, shoes and more for the modern, multifaceted woman. For spring/ summer 2018 there’s a mix of textures and fabrics in monochromatic and neutral colourways. Expect maxi pleats on shirt dresses, deconstructed knitwear and high-waisted trousers, all of which give fluidity and ease to a wardrobe that will take you effortlessly from day to night. rre Malloni, Via Bocca di Leone 34, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 5060, malloni.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

DESIGNS FOR LIVING World leader in stylish furniture, Kartell has opened its first flagship store in Rome. The Italian brand’s new shop is in the centre of the Prati district and moments away from magnificent Piazza Cavour. A haven of inspiration for the home, it is a generous space spanning 250 square metres over two floors, Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

and it includes a large gallery displaying the brand’s latest products. Kartell is known for offering both classic and cutting-edge pieces, and among the items on display you will find Philippe Starck chairs, lighting from Ferruccio Laviani and tables by Antonio Citterio. rre Kartell, Via Tacito 96, 00193 Rome, +39 06 321 6897, kartell.com

S H O P | 37

LUXURY LEATHER One of Italy’s most renowned accessories brands, Fratelli Rossetti has been creating some of the world’s finest footwear and leather items for more than 60 years. The family-run business was founded by Renzo Rossetti in 1953 and is now run by his three sons. Resonating with the craftsmanship that goes into the label’s luxury collections, the Fratelli Rossetti boutique on Via Borgognona has been designed using the highest-quality materials. With vintage teak flooring and traditional Turkish rugs offset by dove grey walls and wood shelves, the store is the perfect backdrop to the label’s colourful creations. rp Fratelli Rossetti, Via Borgognona 5A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 768 2676, fratellirosetti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

BEAUTY MAKEOVER The unveiling of an innovative line has heralded a new era for beauty brand Shiseido. Launched earlier this year, the Essential Energy range has been developed thanks to neuroscience and studies in the interaction between the brain and the skin. The new line uses ReNeura Technology paired with ingredients derived from plants. It features three products: a day cream with SPF 20 (€72), a moisturising cream and a moisturising gel (both

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€75). These are designed for women in their 30s, providing skin with hydration, glow and energy by stimulating its sensory receptors. grc

Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, shiseido.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

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QUALITY TIME Tissot’s recently opened boutique on Via del Corso is located in an historic building dating back to 1731. Spread over two floors, the shop showcases a wide selection of the brand’s timepieces, including its sports, classic, women’s and technologically advanced lines. Highlights include the Swiss watchmaker’s latest designs such as the new Tissot Ballade, with its revolutionary Powermatic 80

movement, and the Tissot Chrono XL, a modern urban sports watch. Additionally, customers can take advantage of the excellent after-sale service at the in-store watchmaker section. js Tissot, Via del Corso 167, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 0147, tissotwatches.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70

Bulgari’s spring/summer collection of leather goods and accessories is based on a theme of urban love. The Roman brand’s Serpenti Forever bag, complete with exotic snakehead clasp, is ever-popular and has been redevised for this season. Choose from several new versions. The Serpenti Pop Heart bag features a snakehead fastening framed by two snakes in a heart shape while Serpenti Neon resonates with the excitement of bright lights and city life and is adorned with a snake and the

word ‘Forever’. Serpenti Metallic (pictured) gives the bag a new finish and shimmers in metallic hues. Wear your bag with one of Bulgari’s silk scarves or a pair of the brand’s chic sunglasses. grc

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

Bulgari, Via dei Condotti 10, 00187 Rome, +39 06 696261, bulgari.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

PHOTO: (TOP) PHOTOSTUDIO DEDONATO/GIGI DE DONATO

SYMBOL OF LOVE

S H O P | 39

SHOP TAX FREE ON THE MOVE This season’s ultimate travel companion is the new and improved SHOP TAX FREE app. Our city maps will take you to the best Tax Free Shopping destinations in Rome, including the world’s leading brands and high-street names. After your shopping day is over, use the app to find nearby city centre Refund Offices. Don’t miss a visit to our new VIP Lounge on Piazza di Spagna. Enjoy faster, easier Tax Free Shopping using the app’s built-in SHOP TAX FREE Card. Once your passport details are stored, your Tax Free Forms can be autofilled with one click. As you shop, keep track of your tax free savings using the handy refund tracker with real-time status updates. The SHOP TAX FREE app is available in English, Chinese and Russian; download it free from Google Play or the App Store. rp

HEEL APPEAL In celebration of Casadei’s 60th anniversary, the spring/summer 2018 collection of the luxury footwear label honours the brand’s history, taking inspiration from the archives and also modernising old styles. Casadei’s striking Blade heels have been redevised as Plexi Blades (pictured, €650); the transparent sculptural stiletto heels were inspired by the artist Damien Hirst. Others styles include Wall heels and Wall wedges. The former is a trapezoid first seen in the 1960s and now updated as a slip-on adorned with pearls; the latter is a tribute to 1980s Japanese experimentalism and features velvet, techno crochet and pleats. rre globalblue.com

Casadei, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 40A, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6994 0539, casadei.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

40 | F E AT U R E S

Adventures in

WORKWEAR

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

On the spring/summer 2018 catwalks, Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading menswear designers presented a new vision of office dressing, as Beth Druce reports

83 87

Right: Giorgio Armani spring/summer 2018

PHOTO: Â© GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 41

Left: Fendi spring/summer 2018

42 | F E AT U R E S

Above (both): Fendi spring/summer 2018

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

he modern two-piece suit – the workplace uniform for so many – was largely the invention of Beau Brummell. An arbiter of men’s fashion in England during the Regency period of the early 19th century, Brummell eschewed the very ornate approach to dressing that was popular at the time in favour of a more tailored outfit characterised by a dark coat, full-length trousers, an immaculately pressed shirt and a cravat. Fast forward more than 200 years and while the cravat might be the preserve of the sartorially bold, the two-piece suit continues to have a place in many men’s wardrobes. It was a significant feature this season as Italy’s menswear designers focused their attention on what dressing for the office means today. At Fendi, creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi took emblems of traditional office dress (a brown pinstripe suit, a grey check doublebreasted suit, a silk tie, leather loafers) and styled them with more casual, less conventional pieces that included furry baseball jackets,

suede-sleeved cardigans and colour-panelled raincoats. Many of the looks were corporate on top, with a shirt and jacket, and casual on the bottom, with shorts and sandals. This, Silvia Venturini Fendi termed the ‘half-Skype look’. As fashion critic Tim Blanks commented on the Business of Fashion website, ‘when you’re on Skype, people only see your top half, so that’s where the effort goes. With the bottom half you can get away with murder.’ Well, perhaps not murder; red gingham shorts with leather sliders, cream jodhpur-style trousers with stirrup ankles, and shiny waterproof combat trousers were what Silvia Venturini Fendi came up with. Thanks to a collaboration with the artist Sue Tilley, illustrations of inanimate workplace objects ‒ a desk lamp, a cup of tea, a banana ‒ were printed on shirts or embroidered on to jackets. For Silvia Venturini Fendi, the new look was all about taking the essence of corporate dressing and making it more engaging. ‘The work wardrobe has become a hybrid, incorporating suits, athleisurewear and travelfriendly fabrics,’ commented Nick Remsen in Above (both): Fendi spring/summer 2018

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

44 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTO: (LEFT) Â© GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 45

Above (clockwise from left): Marni; two looks from Bottega Veneta, all spring/summer 2018

46 | F E AT U R E S

the Financial Times. ‘Big roles today come with responsibilities that extend far beyond the boardroom,’ he added. This was a factor that Marni’s creative director Francesco Risso seemed to be contemplating in the execution of his spring offering, in which suits had contrasting panels and pinstripe, patchwork textures. Shirt collars were left open and ties were loosened, as if the men were breaking away from the office and were off on an adventure. The clothes were meant to ‘surf the topography of a city’, Risso said after the show. Tomas Maier, creative director of Bottega Veneta, is no stranger to colour or conceptualism and this season he evidently relished the opportunity to breathe life into the office man’s uniform. The blazer was replaced with a cropped, pocketed worker jacket in a range of styles including a brown suede version with the brand’s signature intrecciato weave. There were also roomy trench coats in silk

and in heavy-duty shiny leather. The mood was on the comfortable side of corporate; these were clothes for the modern, fashionforward man rather than anyone trying to conform to strict office dress codes. The colour palette was where the designer really ran riot; the designs ranged from a pale pink sequinned leather jacket to a chartreuseyellow zip-through bomber jacket made from velour. This season Giorgio Armani’s designs celebrated the brand’s long association with luxury corporate dressing. This included an update of the classic double-breasted grey silk suits we knew and loved in the 80s; they were cut a little narrower so they felt more relevant to today. Much of the collection followed a grayscale colour palette, a journey in texture where each piece was a variation on neutral sophistication. Casual, worker-style chinos were paired with foiled Above (from top): Marni; Bottega Veneta, both spring/summer 2018

PHOTO: (TOP) © GORUNWAY.COM

Italy’s designers are evidently enjoying a jovial approach to office wear

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 47

zip-up anoraks. Washed-out wool check trousers were styled with metallic crinkled bomber jackets. Giorgio Armani also incorporated singlebreasted suits in pinstripes and navy blue for men for whom dressing down their workday look is not an option. Finally, six blindingly white suits reiterated the appeal of simple textural contrasts. During the show, the words ‘Made in Armani’ were projected on to the catwalk. It was something of a reminder that when it comes to the suit, there isn’t a style that the house hasn’t presented. Along with his exuberant style of clothing, Beau Brummell was rumoured to have taken five hours a day to dress and to have polished his boots with champagne. Neither of these rituals might be practical for the modern working man, but Italy’s designers are evidently enjoying a jovial approach to office wear that resonates with this spirit Above (both): Giorgio Armani spring/summer 2018

#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN FINDS IRONY IN EVERYTHING. - Rule 23 -

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Via del Babuino 20 | Tel. +39 06 326.512.56 Via Cola di Rienzo 266 | Tel. +39 06 688.079.02 Via del Corso c/o Galleria A. Sordi 27/28 | Tel. +39 06 692.020.79 Via Appia Nuova 168/170 | Tel. +39 06 772.044.66

Art Home

at the heart of the

Two of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s four top interiors brands have developed from fashion labels; two evolved from inspirational homeware. All share a flair for flamboyance and top-quality craftsmanship, as Rebecca Rhys-Evans discovers

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talian style is not only centred on fashion; the nation’s interior designers and homeware producers are admired the world over. Part of their cachet lies in the way they celebrate the country’s heritage of skilled craftsmanship and in their use of exquisite materials. While popular design trends from Scandinavia and Japan are shaped by an innate sense of practicality, Italian interior design is based on different and far more flamboyant aesthetics. Beautiful hand-painted ceramics and sumptuous silk cushions are inherent features, and Italians are never ones to shy away from colour or print. While some luxury homeware brands developed from the creation of individual pieces, others 81

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established a reputation in the world of fashion and then branched into interior design. Piero Fornasetti remains one of the most famous Italian creatives of the 20th century. A Milanese painter, sculptor and interior decorator, he was famed for his humorous and eclectic style, and he is credited with creating about 11,000 products. His name has become synonymous with Italian interior design. Since his death in 1988, his son, Barnaba, has continued the family business and has maintained in-house production, which is an essential element of Italian craft culture. The brand’s most renowned motif is the face of Lina Cavalieri, an opera singer of the early 1900s who was celebrated for her Previous page: Geranium collection by Missoni Home Above (from top): Barnaba Fornasetti; Fornasetti wall plate featuring Lina Cavalieri’s face

PHOTO: (TOP) COURTESY OF FORNASETTI

Italians are never ones to shy away from colour or print

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beauty and charisma. In 1952 Fornasetti saw her face in a magazine and was mesmerised. He went on to use her image in striking designs across a number of products. A clown, a thief and an Arabian princess are some of the many interpretations of Lina Cavalieri that Fornasetti conjured on his famous porcelain pieces. Today, the house also produces rugs, lights, wallpaper, fabrics, tiles, jewellery, silk scarves, home fragrances and more. Alessi had a more pragmatic start. It was founded by Giovanni Alessi in 1921 as a manufacturer of small copper, brass and silver household goods. The brand’s turning point into a company producing chic yet practical items came in the 1950s when Giovanni’s son Carlo took over the family business. Trained as an industrial designer, he began collaborating with external designers and architects, producing a range

of products for hotels as well as individuals. Richard Sapper’s 1978 espresso maker was a particular triumph, as was Philippe Starck’s 1980s lemon squeezer, Juicy Salif. Compared to its contemporaries, Alessi offered a very different kind of design for the home, fulfilling functional requirements while offering painstaking craftsmanship. Today, Alessi is not only Italy’s go-to brand for kitchenware; with a great selection of items such as clocks and lamps, it is also making waves as an international label for furnishings. Some of Italy’s most renowned catwalk brands have expanded into homeware. One of the most notable is Missoni. Now run by the third generation of the founding family, the house emphasises the significance of family not only in its business but also in its designs. Rosita Missoni, who co-founded the label in 1953 with her husband Ottavio,

Above (clockwise from bottom left): Raggiante wall clock; 9090/1 espresso coffee maker by Richard Sapper; Amici collection, all Alessi

believes the home should be a welcoming space that offers an adaptable work/play balance. ‘Furnishing my way means creating a habitat that’s ordered yet informal, versatile and welcoming,’ she says. ‘My home is always open to encounters or people just passing through, the family’s comings and goings, and for when friends unexpectedly drop in.’ Born Rosita Jelmini, she has had strong links with fabric manufacturing all her life. The Jelminis own one half of T&J Vestor, the textile maker. In 1983 the company was the natural partner for Missoni when the interiors line Missoni Home was launched. Missoni Home features the same colourful zigzag designs that made the original brand famous in the 1960s and remain its signature today. The gradient rainbows can be found on an array of accessories, furniture and bedding. One of the first Italian labels to Above (from top): Springtime collection; Silver Springtime collection, both by Missoni Home

PHOTOS: MAX ZAMBELLI

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make the transition from catwalk to couch, Missoni has proved that fashion for the home is as important as it is for the wardrobe. Today the company is one of Italy’s most successful interiors brands. Gucci is another prominent Italian fashion brand to develop a homeware section. Unlike Missoni, with its long history of home design, Gucci took this step just last year, under creative director Alessandro Michele. As with his clothing designs, Michele encourages clients to customise pieces to their individual taste. As he puts it, he wants his designs to add a touch of ‘Gucci’s contemporary romanticism to the home’. The Gucci Décor collection features motifs developed for the brand by Michele, such as bees, tigers, moths and snakes which are hand-printed on porcelain, candles, French screens, silk wallpapers and more, or embroidered on cushions. Above (all): Gucci Décor collection

The Gucci Décor collection features motifs such as bees, tigers, moths and snakes Gucci, Missoni, Alessi and Fornasetti are four very different brands, yet they have a common attribute in an integral commitment to quality. Whether you’re looking for kitchen items or an octopus-print French screen, there’s a remarkable standard of craftsmanship when a product is devised by an Italian design house

PIAZZA DELL’UNITÀ 48/49, ROME

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ROME GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Rome with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations. Discover the best places for stylish beachwear and explore the Roman Forum (pictured) – first developed in the 7th century BC, it was ancient Rome’s showpiece centre. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/rome.

PHOTO: © MÓNICA R GOYA

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY ‘It would be difficult to pick a favourite sight in Rome. Each part of the city is unforgettable. I will remember my visit as long as I live’ - AMBEROSE HE, SHOP’S CHINESE ONLINE EDITOR

PHOTOS: XIMENA DANERI; AMBEROSE HE; MILKHA LALA; CARLOTA ZHANG; CC0

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopmagazine_. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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Giorgio Armani With collections of stylish menswear and accessories, this designer brand is one of Italy’s most covetable. Giorgio Armani Uomo, Via dei Condotti 79, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1461, armani.com

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Rinascente For some of the best Italian and international womenswear, menswear and beauty, Rinascente is a must-visit. Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, rinascente.it

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delfinadelettrez.com

Prada This season the classic Italian fashion house has embraced designs inspired byRC A RI comic books, ideal for adding a pop of fun to your wardrobe. Prada, Via dei Condotti 92-95, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0897,

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Delfina Delettrez Find stunning pieces for spring/summer at the boutique of Italian jewellery designer Delfina Delettrez. Delfina Delettrez, Via del Governo Vecchio 67, 00186 Rome, +39 26 6813 4105,

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Place Of Interest

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KIDS AROUND The world of high-end fashion needn’t be restricted to grown-ups, as children’s designer boutique Kids Around is proving in Rome. In its store on Via Belsiana, visitors will find a roster of well-known international designer brands, including Billieblush, Boss, Karl Lagerfeld Kids, Little Marc Jacobs and Timberland. Catering for a wide range of ages, from babies to teens, the store ensures that even the smallest of customers can be the most stylish. Kids Around, Via Belsiana 59-59A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1647, kidsaround.com

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VIA MAR IO DE’F

PRADA UOMO ● ● SCOOTERPLUS DAMIANI ● PRETTY CARTIER ● ● BALLERINAS ● CARTHUSIA P.75 ● FALCONERI ● CANETTA ● CAESAR IORI

GIORGIO ARMANI ● ● FIORENTINO SALVATORE ●B FERRAGAMO ● ● PARAGON MONTBLANC ● ● ACQUA DI CAPRI ELEUTERI ● ● LA GARDENIA JIMMY CHOO ● ● VENCHI HERMÈS ●

● DIOR

P.38

IORI

VIA

DEI

DUE

CEL

PROFUMERIA ● CASTELLI ● GALASSIA ● BALDININI TREND ROBERTO ● BOTTICELLI ● CAMPANILE ● MARTINI ● MAX MARA ● GRACE K ● HIGH ● FITFLOP ● ARMANI JUNIOR ● PENNY BLACK ● FALCONERI ● OPTISSIMO ● ZIL ● TRU TRUSSARDI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● MORESCHI ● FREDDY ● CASTELLI ● REBECCA ● MANILA GRACE ● OTTICA EFRATI ● CALZEDONIA ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● KIEHL’S ● PAROSH

● SWAROVSKI PIQUADRO ● ● ADORE VIVIANTI ● ● GEOX ● JECKERSON UNO DE 50 ● ● NERO GIARDINI AVC BY ADRIANA ● BRIGHENTI CAMPANILE ● ● ELENA MIRÒ BOSS STORE ● ● DOPPELGANGER ● REMAX ELISABETTA ● MOLESKINE FRANCHI BY CELINE B ● PROFUMERIA CASTELLI ●

LIVIANA CONTI ●

PERSONA ● FORNARI E FORNARI ● MARELLA ● ANDREA FABIANI ●

GALLO ● FAUSTO SANTINI ● CESARE PACIOTTI ●

GENTE ROMA ●

VIA BEL SIA NA

● MICHAEL KO RS ● OMEGA

● MAJE ● GRATIAE COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS ● EL GANSO ● LUISA VENIER ● POLO SPORT

● CELINE ALVIERO MARTINI ● ● BRIONI NOMINATION ● ● CASTELLI ASH ● ● SWATCH PURE ● ● LORO PIANA STUART BRANDY ● WEITZMAN & MELVILLE ● ● HAUSMANN & CO MICARELLI ● FEDERICO EMANUELA ● BUCCELLATI CARUSO CAPRI ● ACQUA CHOPIN ● ● DELL’ELBA PINKO ● ● ALBERTA F ERRETTI FABIO D ● GUESS ●

VIA BO CCA DI LEONE

● MAX MARA

LOUIS ● VUITTON VAN CLEEF ● & ARPELS

VIA MAR IO DE’F

● BULGARI

● GUCCI

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● HARRY WINSTON ● BURBERRY ● BATTISTONI ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

CHURCH’S ● TIFFANY & CO ● VIA B E LSI ANA

TOD’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

FRANCESCO ROGANI ● MAX & CO ● VILEBREQUIN ●

Piazza Mignanelli

VIA DE L CO RS

P.71

IL BISONTE ● RENÉ CAOVILLA ● BALENCIAGA ●

GUCCI ● LORENZO CARMIGNANI ● SPORTMAX ● STELLA MCCARTNEY ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● MARINA RINALDI ●

P.37

ALCOZER ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TIE SHOP ●

PEUTEREY ● NIKI NIKA ●

VI A BEL SIA NA

Laduré e

COLOMBO ● HERNO ● TARTUFI & FRIENDS ●

FIO RI

MARTINO MIDALI ●

VIA MA RIO DE’

FRAGIACOMO ● I CINQUE ●

DEHA ● QUETZALCOATL CHOCOLATIER ●

LARA ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

GOCCO ●

DARIO VIS ●

V IA BE L SIA N

VIA MA RIO DE’

FIO RI

P.34

● A TESTONI ● MONNALISA ROBERTO ● CAVALLI AVC BY ADRIANA ● V CAMPANILE ● IRO ● BLUMARINE ● LES COPAINS

OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA ● NOVELLA

● MARISA PADOVAN ● LA PEONIA

● JU'STORE ● IL PORTONE

LA ZUCCA ● STREGATA HAUTE ● PARFUMERIE

MARIO GALLO ● CALVO

● MALO

● COS ● & OTHER STORIES ● ZENDRINI ● ALYSI

EDDY ● MONETTI

BRUNELLO ● CUCINELLI

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

VIA BORGOGNONA

Pia zz a Di Sp ag na VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

CUOIERIA ● FIORENTINA ● ANDREUCCI

VIA BEL SIA NA

● COSE

● ADORE ● ABITART

● FLIRT ● CLIO

VIA DE L CO RS O

VIA BORGOGNONA

WOLFORD ● L'OCCITANE ● ACQUA DELL'ELBA ● ● SWAROVSK I PANDORA ● TOUS ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

LILIA LEONI ● GIOCATTOLI ●

Featured In This Issue

Café

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

Via Borgognona

Via delle Carrozze

VIA FRAT TINA

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA FRATTIN A VI A F R ATT IN A

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA DEL LA CRO

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE VIA DE LL E CA

VIA CO ND OT TI

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

70 | R O M E G U I D E

VIA DEL CORSO AREA Via del Corso (North)

Via del Corso (Central) CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

Piazza Del Popolo

● ALFIERI

VIA

ELLA

VIA BELSIAN A

V IA DE L

GA M BE

VIA DE L LA

VIT E

● TISSOT P.38 ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH

VI A IN LU CI N A

INTIMISSIMI ●

● PIKOLINOS ● MISS SIXTY

V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O

ELISABETTA FRANCHI PERLA INGLOT MC2 SOLARIS COCCINELLE

Piazza del Parlamento

DAN JOHN ●

A RES L' IM P DEL VIA

VIA VITTORIA

Piazza Colonna

VIA DELLA CROCE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

AU DI A

Featured In This Issue

Galleria Alberto Sordi

● BRACCIALINI

TIM MONDO WIND INTIMISSIMI SHOPIE CHARLOTTE STROILI CALVIN KLEIN PANDORA VODAFONE NAU CHOPIN CARMENS

VIA SA N CL

● ZARA

OYSHO ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

HOYA ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

LIU JO UOMO MORELLATO ALCOTT PEPE JEANS MANILA GRACE BEC BERNABEI SIMONA INTIMISSIMI UOMO DA VINCI FRANCESCHINI

TIT E

LUXURY OUTLET ●

DAMIANO ● PRESTA ● BOGGI

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA DEL L E CO NV ER

VIA DEL PA RL AM EN TO

VIA DI SAN TA MARIA IN V IA

● ● ● ● ● ●

BOGGI ●

DI R VIA

Global Blue Retailer

● WYCON ● DISNEY STORE ● GRILLI

BE TWEEN ●

Largo dei Lombardi

● POLO RALPH LAUREN ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO

COCCINELLE ●

GAP ●

N D OT T

VI A FR AT TIN A

VIA DEL CORSO

REDFORD ●

LUXURY OUTLET ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● DAVID HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● PRIMADONNA ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

IC I

TEF

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA DEL CORSO

FOOT LOCKER ●

V IA C O

● SWAROVSKI ● INTIMISSIMI UOMO ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO NON A ● SANDRO FERRONE ● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI

● SISLEY

NIKE ● PON

UIN

FLORENCE ●

N O VA

IO C A

● LIU JO

VIA BOR GOG

VIA DI GESÙ E MARIA

TERRANOVA ●

DEI

KIPLING COVER STORE BERNABEI ADELE ALTMAN SUBDUED KRUDER

● LAB SHOES

BATA ● SEPHORA ● MAC ● KIKO ●

V IA

● ● ● ● ● ●

NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

N TO N

NEROGIARDINI LUSH 7 CAMICIE AS ROMA STORE TIMBERLAND

● PULL LOVE ● MARCO

HAVAIANAS ● V IA A

● ● ● ● ●

AW LAB ●

DADADA ●

FENDI ●

FOSSIL ● DESIGUAL ●

FERRARI ● STORE

LLI

H&M ● VA N TA G G

VIA DEL CORSO

DEL

VIA DELLE CARROZ Z E

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● ESOTICA

VIA DEL CORSO

ORIGINAL ● MARINES

● KASANOVA

V IA

● STEFANO RICCI

VI A D EL LA FON TAN

●S RIP A RTO R ENS E IA

VIA

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ● RE MISHELLE ● DA PIETRO ● DAVID HAMILTON ● GRATIE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

IPE

T TA

VIA DELL ' OCA

H&M ●

VIA

NCI EO

● CALZEDONIA ● DECCIO CARLO ● PARFOIS ● GOLDEN POINT ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● TALLY WEIJL ● DIESEL ● GUESS

VIA BELSIANA

● BORSALINO ● ZEISS HOUSE

VIA DEL CORSO

GEOX ●

S H O P | 71

Via del Corso (South)

CHI

MAS ERG A V IA B

B U R RÒ VI A D E ’

BARONE ● TIN CA

VI A MAR CO MING

CELIO ●

HETT I

VIC O LO S CIA

RRA

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER ● STELLA ZETA

V IA D

M ILTÀ E LL' U

LEG IO RO M A

VIA DEL CO L

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA L ATA

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

VI A DI SAN M A R CEL LO

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

VIA DEL CORSO

O IM AD VI V I A D EL CA RAV ITA

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

VIA DELL E M U RATT E

VATURI ● LA CONCERIA ●

E NT

FLORSHEIM ●

PI E TR A

VIA DI SAN TA MA RI A IN VIA

VI A DI

● C’ART OTTICA F. LA ● BARBERA

ZUIKI ● SPADA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

PIQUADRO ●

● SARTORIA ROSSI ● FURLA ● MASSIMO DUTTI

TIM ● DANIELLE ●

AERONAUTICA MILITARE ●

Galleria Piazza Colonna Alberto Sordi

LA FELTRINELLI ●

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI

VI A SS. A P O STO LI

● LA GARDENIA ● DOPPELGANGER ● EDAS

VICOLO D ORIA

STEFANEL ●

VI A DE L PLE BIS CIT

VIA DEL CORSO

SCHEGGE ●

● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE VICOLO DEL PIO M B O

● ● ● ● ●

OUTLET TEBE LEVIATAN SALOMÈ LE GROUP

● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

O VIA CE SA R E B AT TIS TI Piazza Venezia

Place Of Interest

PIAZZA DEI SANTISSIM I APOSTOLI

● HAMMERSMITH

MARTINO MIDALI Since the 1980s Martino Midali has been synonymous with contemporary Italian style. The designer’s architectural creations focus on cuts and prints and have won his brand followers around the world. The five Martino Midali stores in Rome reflect the label’s much-loved minimalist aesthetic and present visitors with a choice of ready-to-wear collections in a range of eye-catching prints. For the spring/summer 2018 offering there’s a strong focus on stripes and floral motifs alongside beautiful linen scarves and oversized statement necklaces, making the stores a must-visit for those seeking a playful addition to their wardrobe. Martino Midali, Via delle Carrozze 41, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 1497, martinomidali.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

72 | R O M E G U I D E

VIA DEL TRITONE AREA VI TE

VI A M A

R IO DÈ FI O RI

VIA DI CAP O

ELL

AD RE ND

Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro

G A LL I N A C C I O O DEL

I POL VIA

JOELA ●

RI A

Global Blue Retailer Department Store

CLASS ●

N ET TE VIA

TOP 3… PIZZERIAS 2. Sforno Famed for its thick crusts and generous toppings, Sforno is the place to go for a truly filling pizza. One of the most popular is cacio e pepe, a pizza inspired by a local pasta dish. It comes with copious amounts of percorino cheese and black pepper. Sforno, Via Statilio Ottato 110-116, 00175 Rome, +39 06 7154 6118, sforno.it

L A PA

● OVS INDUSTRY

V IA D EL

● MOUNTAIN AFFAIRS STORE

● GIOIELLERIA

● STONEFLY

● MELLUSO

● MUJI

● SAXON'S

● SB LEATHER SHOP

UNITED COLORS OF ● BENETTON

Piazza Fontan a di Trevi

1. Pizzarium Pizzarium is a food landmark in Rome; its founder, Gabriele Bonci, has been called ‘the Michelangelo of pizza’. Pizzarium’s bases are made with the same spelt flour used by ancient Roman bakers and to these are added a variety of gourmet, and sometimes experimental, toppings. Pizzarium, Via della Meloria 43, 00136 Rome, +39 06 3974 5416, bonci.it

Rinascente

DI CORI ●

BOX 51 ●

VIA DEL T R ITO NE

P.37

MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●

I SA

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ●

D-STORE ● TIGER ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ●

VIA POL I

VI A DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

O R TA

● REMAX

D EL M

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

LARGO CHIGI

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

LIMONI ● ANNA VIRGILI ● RIMOWA ●

Piazza di San Claudio

VI A

● SETTIMIO MIELI

VIA DEL CORSO

● UNO PIÚ

● MEDICI ● GERARD ● + VISTA ● TRIS GEMME E ● DIAMANTI

N C L AU DIO

Galleria Alberto Sordi

VIA D

V I A D E L P OZ Z E T TO

I DU

● BEDETTI

V IA D EI SA

E FR

RT ITE

LE CA

VIA

AT T E

ME RC ED

Piazza di San Silvestro VISION OPTIKA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

TECH IT EASY ● SUPERDRY ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJRI ● TANCREDI ● NEW BALANCE ● TIMBERLAND ● VIA DEL LE CO N VE

VI A DE L LA

V I CO L

VI A DE LL A

VIA DI PRO PAGA NDA

Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite, Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone

3. Forno Campo De’fiori Something of a hidden gem, this little bakery offers some of Rome’s best takeaway pizza blanca, plain pizza base topped with extra virgin olive oil, which is a local favourite. For a more substantial treat, try the bakery’s fiori di zucca with courgette flowers. Forno Campo de’Fiori, Campo de’Fiori 22, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 6662, fornocampodefiori.com

Featured In This Issue

CI O

S H O P | 73

ERMANNO SCERVINO

GATTINON I ●

V IA

LLA

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI

Piazza Barberini

VI A DE LL EQ

● PINOCCHIO

RO FO

CC IO

VI A R A SEL LA

VIA RAS ELL

AN NT

L B OC CA

TT UA

VI A DE

● SANDRO FERRONE

● DOPPELGANGER

● VALLI

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E S I

VENE

BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●

A DAN JHON ●

CC H EL

VI A ZU

VIA

T O R IO

FR A NC

A ● ADELE ALTMAN

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA

DE A

● MAX & CO ● R.BAZZOCCHI

● SAMSONITE

VIA

● PRONOVIAS

VIA R ASE LL

DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ● UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLARKS ● SOUVENIR SHOP ● KRUDER ● WHITE MOOD ● ESTHER ● MISS ROBERTA ● MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

VIA DEL TRITO NE

ALTA MODA FURS ●

C EI

V I A V IT

ISP

Z IO

IC A

IA N

R IF

ASE

Few designers embody Italian chic quite like Ermanno Scervino. Founded in 2000, the label has become synonymous with Made in Italy quality and with Italian flair. The city’s greatest art galleries inspired the design of brand’s store in Rome. Its rooms and corridors are filled with the label’s latest collections of menswear and womenswear, with pieces displayed like works of art, all centred around a grand hall showing the standout looks of the season. The store is a true must-visit for art-loving fashion fans. Ermanno Scervino, Via del Babuino 97, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3173, ermannoscervino.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 64

globalblue.com

74 | R O M E G U I D E

VILEBREQUIN No spring/summer wardrobe is complete without fashionable beachwear, and Vilebrequin’s store, on Largo Carlo Goldoni, is the place to turn to for the perfect bikini or pair of swim shorts this season. Founded in Saint-Tropez in 1971, the French brand offers a range of colourful, graphic print swimwear which in recent years has become some of the most stylish beach attire available. In addition to classic swimwear, the store is also home to ready-to-wear collections including T-shirts, polo shirts, dresses, bags, sunglasses and scarves. Vilebrequin, Largo Carlo Goldoni 43A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 0567, vilebrequin.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 64

ALBERTO AMIDEI ● MUSA ●

Antico Caffè Vitti

S●

VIA BOR GOG

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

ZIO

AR M

MP CA

V IA

DEL

L'I M P

RES

NE S S IO

LA EL AD

VIA

NA ALE ADD

LA M DEL

VIA

Featured In This Issue

● SPADA

Café

VIA DEL CORSO

Non-Global Blue Retailer

LOUIS VUITTON ●

Global Blue Retailer

● PASQUALE BRUNI

R IO

CASADEI ●

IC A

POMELLATO ●

P.39

I DE

● CARSHOE

F F IC

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina ● BOTTEGA VENETA

LI U

● SAINT LAURENT

D EG

VIA DELLA M ER CE D

● BONPOINT

AUDEMARS ● PIGUET

● OFFICINA SLOWEAR ● MIGLIORANZA ● STURNI

OLIVER PEOPLES ●

VIT E

P.34

ELL

CRUCIANI & BELLA ●

ERT

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

● PERSICO TIE SHOP ● ● CAMPOMARZIO70 MODARI ● ● EMPRESA FOR PETS ONLY ● ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND MARINELLA ● ● BORSALINO

ALB

VIA DEL CORSO

MONOCLE ●

OBOR ●

● FG

Piazza del Parlamento

VI A DE L L A

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●

VIA ME TAS TAS

AMOUAGE ●

V IA

VIA FRATTIN A

CAM

VIA

V ICO

LO D E

VIA DE

L DIVI

L L A LU

NO AM

● CAMPO MARZIO BANCHETTI ● ● VITTORIO BAGAGLI TANCREDI ● ● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET NEGRI ● ● CAMPOMARZIO9 PAS DE ROUGE ● PAUL TAYLOR ● ● SCOTIA ● CHASMERITALY CALZATURE CAMPOMARZIO ● ● BIARRITZ 1961 GOLF & GOLF ● ● PAUL TAYLOR SUPERCASA ● ● CENTODIECI TEBRO ● ● ALAIN PAINE V I A D EI P R E FE T TI ● IL CAMICIAIO O’BAG ● VI A IN LU CIN A OT T BECCACECE ● ● PAIC A A L CRU RLA GINTEL ● C IA N MEN I EMPRESA ● ● TO

DAVIDE CENCI ●

NON A

PHOTO: PAOLO FUSCO

O●

LEO

R●

V IA D EL GAM BERO

ORE

AGIO

HER

IA NA

VI C O LO DI SAN BI

NK L

DEL

BOU

VI A BE LS

R DA

ALL

ACO

IOSSELLIA NI R-01-IOS ●

ROT

FR A

V IA

DI P

BAR KS B

VIA

TIN O BRO O

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA

CLEMEN

VIA DEL

INO

Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

S H O P | 75

VIA VITTORIO VENETO AREA Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia

ZILLI ●

● CAPUANO

CAVIGLIA ●

● DE SIMONE

V IA

SA R

DEG

NA VI A

CI IN

ALBERTINA ●

ELIZABETH ●

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA ● DE PASCALIS

● GOLD SKIN EXCELSIOR GALLERY ● ● TRUCCHI IL IA UBI ● S IC ● ARSENIO V IA GLOVES ● ● CARRY ON JUNIOR VERSACE ●

AD VI

E M IL

V IA

IT T

TA P

LAZ

CHE

V IA

MAR

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

HELENE PROFUMERIA ●

NIMA & RAY ●

ANDREW'S TIES ● RINALDI ●

CARTHUSIA Italian brand Carthusia evokes a combination of sun, sea and earth with its new fragrance Terra Mia, which was was created by perfumer Luca Maffei. Citrusy top notes of bergamot, neroli and pink pepper contrast with a woody heart which includes jasmine, orange blossom, Arabica coffee and hazelnut. The base notes are formed by amber woods, vanilla and musk. When shopping for this latest eau de parfum (50ml, €60; 100ml, €80) keep an eye out for Carthusia’s new collection of leather accessories; there’s a choice of pastel coloured travel pouches as well as three different travel shaving kits. Carthusia, Via della Croce 7, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3986, carthusia.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

globalblue.com

V IA

BON

CO M

PA G

76 | R O M E G U I D E

PANTHEON & NAVONA AREA Via del Governo Vecchio VI

● ALEX SHOES

N SA IE CH

A LL DE

A VI

EA TR

SA VE

CC VE

FA OR LI

V. D

● FIORANGELO ● MI & CHI

PANTHEON

INA R IO

● A CENCI ● CASALI ● GIOREN MENTA ● GLOVES ● KLK STEREO ● SOUND

● TULLI PROFUMERIA

ANGELO ● CONCEPT STORE VIA D EL SEM

CC H

Y VI LETT ● AR T VR AI S . ● C 'EO O L S E C W ● IC 2 TR Y P.2 A BE OLB Z I E ● K IN A TR ● RA AS I ● IN T SO M GN A LF ELE VI RA DE D & ● ● AD RIA RO LE IO ● L E H Y ● T H I O I E CC ET 93 ● CI ON G VE O E O LI I C N .G SO N A V A I A R ● RI ID C .D LE ● M VE E L NC E L R A ● GO CA LT I C A ● A A S ’ L T L L S DE & LOT N E LO N A FI USI CO VI LU B C GI TE RA ST

● CAMPOMARZIO70

Piazza Della Rotonda

U R IO

● L N IN O DE T IG IA T R A ● L O L'A R N IC O CO

E L L E VA

RC ● ME

O LO D

S T IN

A V IA DE L L A MIN ERV

VIA D. ROTONDA

● REPLAY

GEORGE’S ● PEPITA ● LE ARTIGIANE DI ROMA ● CARTOLERIA PANTHEON ●

● STILOFETTI A V. D . P

V GO

E OV

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S H O P | 77

VIA COLA DI RIENZO AREA Via Cola di Rienzo MERCEDES BENZ ● DESIGN OPTICAL ●

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VIA COLA DI RIENZO

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PHOTO: JÜRGEN MANGELSDORF CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

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中文翻译

40: ADVENTURES IN WORKWEAR 职业装大冒险 2018年春夏季秀场上，意大利主流男装品牌打开了办公室着装新视界。Beth Druce报道从很大程度上说，现代两件套西服 — — 无数人的工作制服 — — 是博·布鲁梅尔（Beau Brummell）的发明。作为英国摄政时期男士时尚的主宰者，布鲁梅尔对19世纪初流行一时的浮华着装风格嗤之以鼻，反而十分推崇剪裁更为讲究的整套服装 — —由一件深色外套、一条尺寸标准的长裤、一件熨烫整洁的衬衫和一条领巾组成。快进到200多年后的今天，虽然

上图：乔治•阿玛尼2018年春夏

领巾或许只为服装收藏者而存在，但两件套西服仍然是绝大多数男士的日常必备装束。随着意大利男装设计师纷纷将注意力投向当今办公室着装，两件套西服亦成为了本季度的重头戏。芬迪（Fendi）创意总监 Silvia Venturini Fendi选取了典型的传统职业装（一套棕色细条纹西装、一套灰色双排扣格子西装、一条丝绸领带、一双乐福皮鞋），并用它们搭配更休闲、更非常规的单品，包括毛皮棒球夹克，袖子为麂皮的开襟羊毛衫和色调鲜艳的雨衣。许多套装扮都是上半身衬衫加西装外套，齐整挺括；下半身则是短裤搭浅帮鞋 ,惬意休闲。Silvia Venturini Fendi将这种风格命名为“ 半 Skype装扮”。正如时尚批评家 Tim Blanks在《时装商业评论》（Business of Fashion）网站上所写的：“ 你在 Skype上参加电话会议时，人们只看得到你的上半身，所以应该把心思花在这儿。至于下半身，你大可以为所欲为。” 好吧，也许还不

TRANSLATIONS

至于为所欲为；Silvia Venturini Fendi心里想的，是红色格纹短裤搭配皮革拖鞋，配有踝部护具的淡黄色骑马裤，以及耐磨且防水的工装裤。芬迪还与艺术家 Sue Tilley合作，将许多寻常的办公室物品 — —台灯、茶杯、香蕉— —印在衬衫上或绣在夹克上。对于Silvia Venturini Fendi而言，这样做完全是为了汲取职业装束之精华，并让它变得更有魅力。 “ 职业装衣橱已经变成了一种混合风格，包罗了西装、运动休闲装及适合旅行的面料。”《金融时报》（Financial Times）的Nick Remsen评论道，“今天，重要职位所承担的责任远不止于会议室范围内。”他补充道。看起来，在创作春季新品的过程中，Marni的创意

长裤则与充满金属质感的起皱飞行夹克相映成趣。针对那些不愿在工作日装束上随便应付的男士，乔治·阿玛尼还将细条纹及深蓝色用在了单排扣上。最后，六套引人注目的白色西装再次展现了纹理上的简单反差所带来的独特魅力。走秀过程中，“ 阿玛尼制造”的字样投影在 T台之上。它仿佛在提醒着人们：就西装而言，还没有哪一种风格是该品牌未曾展示过的。博·布鲁梅尔不仅着装风格生气勃勃，据传言称他每天要花五个小时来打扮，还要用香槟酒来擦亮他的靴子。这些仪式或许都不适用于现代的职场男士，但意大利设计师们显然十分享受与这种精神遥相呼应的、轻松愉快的办公室着装风格。

职业装衣橱已经变成了一种混合风格 , 包罗了西装、运动休闲装及适合旅行的面料总监 Francesco Risso也考虑到了这一点，系列西装饰有对比鲜明的色块、细条纹和拼缀面料。衬衫的领口随意地敞开，领带也被拉松了，看上去男士们正在逃离办公室，即将开展一次大冒险。走秀结束后，Risso表示这些服装必将“冲击一座城市的着装风格。” 葆蝶家（Bottega Veneta）创意总监 Tomas Maier对色彩及概念主义的运用可谓轻车熟路。本季他趁此良机，为男士办公制服注入了新鲜活力。西装外套被截短的带口袋工装夹克取代，样式包括饰有品牌标志性 intrecciato编织工艺的棕色麂皮款。除此之外，还有用丝绸或有光泽的厚重皮革制成的宽松战壕风衣。这些服装是为现代都市型男打造的，而不是那些努力遵照严格的办公室着装要求的人，因此作品的设计更偏重职业着装舒适的一面。配色则是设计师们可以真正大展身手的地方：从镶亮片的浅粉色皮夹克，到天鹅绒制成的淡黄绿色拉链飞行夹克，一应俱全。素来是奢侈职业装代名词的乔治·阿玛尼（Giorgio Armani）将品牌的 “ 精华之处”发扬光大。这其中就包括了80年代为人们熟知且深爱的经典双排扣灰色丝质西服；为了表现出摩登的感觉，它们的剪裁略加紧凑。系列中的许多作品都采用了灰色系的色调，在这趟关于质地与纹理的旅途中，每一件单品都是对中性优雅的不同演绎。休闲的工人风格卡其裤和烫金拉链厚夹克搭配在一起；颜色暗淡的羊毛格子 globalblue.cn

50: ART AT THE HEART OF THE HOME 家居艺术意大利最好的四家室内设计品牌之中，有两家是由时装品牌发展而来，另外两家则是从创意家居用品起家。奢华的风格和至臻的手工技艺是它们的共同点。Rebecca Rhys-Evans带您了解意大利风格并不只集中体现在时尚领域；该国的室内设计师和家居品制造商同样受到了世界各地顾客的青睐。他们之所以备受赞誉，部分原因在于对意大利精湛手工技艺的传承和坚持使用精品材料的原则。虽然发源于斯堪的纳维亚半岛和日本的流行设计风潮均深受由来已久的实用观念之影响，意大利室内设计遵循的却是一种截然不同的、极致奢华的审美理念。精美的手绘陶瓷和华丽的丝绸坐垫自然是屡见不鲜，意大利人也向来不羞于大胆搭配色彩与印花。有些奢侈家居品牌是靠创作独立单品起家，还有一些则是先在时尚世界创造了口碑，然后再涉足室内设计领域。 Piero Fornasetti是20世纪最著名的意大利创意人士之一。作为一名来自米兰的画家、雕刻家和室内设计师，他以幽默生动、博采众长的

今，Alessi不仅是意大利最炙手可热的厨具品牌；凭借时钟和灯具等形形色色的精选单品，作为家居品牌的它同样在国际市场引领浪潮。不少极富盛名的意大利时尚大牌也纷纷涉足家居领域，Missoni便是其中最值得注意的之一。现由创始家族的第三代执掌的Missoni十分注重家庭的重要意义，这一点不仅体现在品牌产业上，亦可见于其设计之中。于1953年和丈夫 Ottavio联袂创立品牌的Rosita Missoni认为，家应该是一个温馨的空间，能让人随意平衡于工作与玩耍之间。“ 按照我的方式布置房间，那就意味着创造一个井然有序而并不正式、功能齐备且氛围温馨的栖息地。”她说道，“ 我的家永远向偶遇的或刚好经过的路人、来来去去的家人和不期而至的朋友敞开大门。”原名为Rosita Jelmini的她，一生都与织物生产有着密不可分的联系。Jelminis家族拥有纺织品制造商 T& J Vestor一半的产业；1983年，Missoni Home室内设计系列正式发布，该公司也自然而然成为了 Missoni的合作伙伴。在 Missoni Home系列当中，依然可以看见熟悉的彩色 Z字设计元素。上世纪 60年代，正是Z 字型针织纹样让 Missoni声名鹊起，它至今仍是品牌的一大标志。在一系列饰品、家具和床具用品上，彩虹色的斜条纹屡见不鲜。作为最早从秀场转入客厅的意大利品牌之一，Missoni已然证明：无论是家居还是衣橱，时尚感都同样重要。如今，该公司已是意大利最成功的室内设计品牌之一。古驰（Gucci）是另一家涉足家居用品的卓

照片: MAX ZAMBELLI

风格而著称，据称他共完成了约11000件作品；他的名字已然成为了意大利室内设计的代名词。自1988年他与世长辞之后，其子Barnaba继承了家族产业，坚持自主生产，而这正是意大利手工艺文化的一大基本元素。该品牌最著名的创作主题当属 Lina Cavalieri的肖像 — —后者是一位20世纪初的歌剧演唱家，其非凡美貌与独特魅力常常为人赞美。1952年，Fornasetti在一本杂志上看到了她的面孔，一眼便着了迷。于是乎，他把Cavalieri的肖像用到了许多产品身上，创造出令人惊叹的设计效果。Fornasetti放飞想象，在他的著名瓷器作品上对Lina Cavalieri进行了多种演绎，例如小丑、小偷和阿拉伯公主。如今，该品牌还生产地毯、灯具、墙纸、织物、瓷砖、珠宝、丝巾和家用香氛等产品。 Alessi品牌的起源则更具实用主义色彩。它由Giovanni Alessi创立于1921年，最初只生产小型的铜、黄铜和银制家居用品。20世纪 50年代，Giovanni之子 Carlo接管家族产业，将Alessi 转变成为一家生产时尚别致而又不失实用性能的单品的公司。作为一名经过专业训练的工业设计师，Carlo开始与其他设计师及建筑师合作，为许多酒店及个人顾客生产各式各样的产品。1978年与Richard Sapper联合创作的浓缩咖啡机大获成功，80年代与Philippe Starck合作推出的柠檬榨汁器 Juicy Salif亦风靡一时。与同时代的其他品牌相比，Alessi为顾客提供了一种非常与众不同的家居设计；它在满足功能需求的同时，展现了凝结匠人心血的手工艺之美。如

上图：Missoni Home Springtime 春季家居系列

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

越意大利时尚品牌。和在家居设计领域深耕已久的Missoni不一样，古驰直到去年才在创意总监Alessandro Michele的引领下迈出这一步。和服装设计一样，Michele鼓励顾客根据个人品位定制作品。正如他所言，他希望自己的设计能 “为屋宇添加一份古驰式的当代浪漫主义风情”。 Michele为 Gucci Décor系列创作了许多图案，例如蜜蜂、老虎、飞蛾和蛇；它们被手绘在瓷器、蜡烛、法式屏风和丝绸墙纸等产品上，又或绣在 Итальянские бренды мужской одежды 垫子上。 представили свежий подход к дело古驰、Missoni、Alessi和 Fornasetti是四家截然不同的品牌，然而它们都有着对于卓越品质的 вому стилю в коллекциях весна-лето 执着追求。无论您是在物色厨房用品还是印着章 2018, – рассказывает Бет Дрюс 鱼图案的法式屏风，意大利设计品牌创作的产品一定会为您呈现不可思议的手工艺水准。 Изобретателем костюма-двойки, ставшего

40: ADVENTURES IN WORKWEAR ПРИКЛЮЧЕНИЯ ОФИСНОЙ ОДЕЖДЫ

78: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时，环球蓝联购物退税服务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为您节省购物开销。每年约有两千六百多万名旅客享用环球蓝联 (Global Blue）的购物退税服务，何不加入他们的行列？您只需在购物时留意环球蓝联 (Global Blue）的蓝星标志，或直接问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）退税服务，然后遵循以下简单的退税流程即可： 1. 购物消费无论您在哪里购物，请向商家索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并保存票据。 2. 申领退税在您返程离境前，请前往海关柜台，出示退税表格和相关票据，获取海关印章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取退税款。联系方式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费154.95欧元即可申请退税，能够节省高达15.5%的商品购买价。请注意：您收到的退税款是增值税减去环球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择现金退税，部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。 globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

рабочей униформой современных мужчин, считается Бо Браммел – повелитель мужской моды эпохи Регентства в Англии. Он сторонился излишнего франтовства, столь популярного в начале XIX века, и предпочитал более продуманные комплекты: темное пальто, длинные брюки, идеально отутюженную рубашку и шейный платок. Прошло больше 200 лет, и если платок сохранился только в гардеробах модных смельчаков, то костюм-двойка по-прежнему занимает особое место. И новые коллекции итальянских дизайнеров доказывают это. Креативный директор Fendi Сильвия Вентурини Фенди взяла за основу классические деловые вещи (коричневый костюм в полоску, костюм с двубортным пиджаком в серую клетку, шелковый галстук, кожаные лоферы) и уравновесила их повседневными и менее традиционными: меховыми бейсбольными куртками, кардиганами с замшевыми рукавами и дождевиками с цветными вставками. Многие образы состояли из делового верха (рубашки и пиджаки) и непарадной нижней части (шорты и сандалии). Сильвия Вентурини Фенди назвала это «комплект для переговоров по Skype». Модный критик Тим Бланкс в статье для сайта Business of Fashion прокомментировал эту идею так: «Когда вы разговариваете по Skype, собеседник видит только верх, и на него направлены все усилия. А за кадром – и удобная одежда не будет преступлением». Пожалуй, преступления в этом и правда нет: в качестве нижней части костюма Сильвия Вентурини Фенди предложила красные хлопковые шорты с кожаными сандалиями, кремовые легкие штаны

со свободными манжетами и яркие водонепро‑ ницаемые военные брюки. Сотрудничество с художницей Сью Тилли привнесло в коллекцию изображение предметов, обитающих в любом офисе: настольной лампы, чашки с чаем и банана. Они появились в качестве принтов на рубашках и вышивки на пиджаках. Все вместе позволило Сильвии Вентурини Фенди наделить корпоративный гардероб дополни‑ тельной обаятельностью. «Офисный дресс‑код превратился в гибрид: это и костюм, и одежда для спорта и отдыха, и ткани, в которых приятно путешествовать, – комментирует Ник Ремсен в материале Financial Times. – Сегодня большие должности подразумевают обязанности, которые не ограничиваются совещаниями в переговор‑ ной». Видимо, именно об этом думал креатив‑ ный директор Marni Франческо Риссо, работая над весенним обновлением: на его костюмах появились контрастные вставки, тонкие полосы

самых разных вариациях, в том числе – из корич‑ невой замши с фирменным плетением intrecciato. Появились просторные тренчи из шелка и плот‑ ной блестящей кожи. Дизайнер сосредоточился на комфортной части делового стиля: эта одежда больше подойдет современным метросексуалам, чем тем, кто пытается найти себя в официальном дресс‑коде. Но в цветовом решении Майер дал волю фантазии по‑настоящему: в коллекцию во‑ шли бледно‑розовый кожаный жакет с блестками и зеленовато‑желтая велюровая куртка‑бомбер на молнии. Коллекция этого сезона Giorgio Armani представляет собой собрание лучших разработок бренда. В нее вошли шелковые серые костюмы с двубортными пиджаками, которые появились и были очень востребованы в 1980‑е. Современную версию отличает чуть более зауженный крой, вписавший их в современный стиль. В коллекции преобладает серая палитра, и каждая вещь здесь

и пэчворк. Расстегнутые воротнички и осла‑ бленные галстуки создавали впечатление, будто мужчины вырвались из офисов и отправились навстречу приключениям. После показа Риссо пояснил, что эта одежда предназначена для городской жизни. Томас Майер, креативный директор Bottega Veneta, склонен к ярким цветовым и концепту‑ альным решениям. В этом сезоне он наслаждался возможностью вдохнуть новую жизнь в офисный гардероб. На смену блейзеру пришла укорочен‑ ная рабочая куртка с карманами: она доступна в

Сверху: Fendi весна-лето 2018

– путешествие в мир текстур и вариация на тему нейтральной изысканности. Повседневные брю‑ ки‑чинос в рабочем стиле были представлены на подиуме в сочетании с застегнутыми анораками, а потертые шерстяные брюки в клетку – с сере‑ бристыми мятыми куртками‑бомберами. Для тех, кто не может позволить себе столь непринужденный стиль на работе, Giorgio Armani добавил костюмы с однобортным пиджа‑ ком – темно‑синие и в тонкую полоску. Финаль‑ ным аккордом стали шесть ослепительно белых костюмов, которые еще раз подчеркнули силу контраста текстур при лаконичности цвета. Во время показа на подиум проецировались слова «Made in Armani» – этакое напоминание о веду‑ щих позициях модного дома в сфере мужского костюма. Говорят, Бо Браммел одевался и переодевался по пять часов в день, а ботинки начищал шампанским. Пожалуй, современным работающим мужчинам эти ритуалы уже не подходят. Но судя по всему, итальянские дизайнеры нашли столь же жизнерадостный подход к офисной одежде, которая напоминает о великом денди.

Офисный дресс-код превратился в гибрид: это и костюм, и одежда для спорта и отдыха, в которой приятно путешествовать

50: ART AT THE HEART OF THE HOME МОДНЫЙ УЮТ Два из четырех ведущих интерьерных брендов Италии начинали с дизайна одежды, два других – с товаров для дома. Их объединяет склонность к роскоши и первоклассное мастерство, – рассказывает Ребекка Риз-Эванс Итальянский стиль проявляется не только в моде; местные дизайнеры интерьеров и производители товаров для дома славятся во всем мире. Для многих характерна особая любовь к национальному мастерству и изысканным материалам. Если популярные интерьерные тренды Скандинавии и Японии продиктованы врожденным чувством практичности, то итальянский дизайн построен на совершенно другой эстетике, отличающейся завидной роскошью. Неотъемлемыми элементами являются изящная керамика ручной росписи и великолепные шелковые подушки, да и вообще итальянцы никогда не стеснялись яркой палитры и красочных узоров. Мировая слава пришла к ряду дизайнерских брендов благодаря их выдающимся творениям, другие же сперва добились популярности в мире моды, после чего направили свою деятельность в новое русло. Пьеро Форнасетти остается одной из самых известных творческих личностей Италии 20 века. Юмористический подход и эклектичный стиль этого миланского художника, скульптора и декоратора, создавшего более 11 000 предметов интерьера, принесли ему небывалую славу. У многих его имя стало ассоциироваться с итальянской индустрией дизайна. После смерти Пьеро в 1988 году, его сын Барнаба продолжил Сверху: тарелка Fornasetti с изображением Лины Кавальери

семейный бизнес и сохранил производство на дому, что является важным элементом итальянской ремесленной культуры. Самый известный мотив бренда – лицо Лины Кавальери, оперной певицы начала 1900‑х годов, ставшей знаменитой благодаря своей красоте и харизме. В 1952 году Форнасетти заметил ее лицо в журнале и был очарован. Изображение с ее портретом появилось на целом ряде изделий. «Клоун», «вор» и «арабская принцесса» – вот лишь несколько из многочисленных работ Форнасетти, украшенных изображением Лины Кавальери. Сегодня бренд выпускает ковры, светильники, обои, ткани, плитку, украшения, шелковые шарфы, домашнюю парфюмерию и многое другое. Марка Alessi имеет более прагматичную историю. Ее основателем в 1921 году был Джованни Алесси, производитель домашней утвари из меди, латуни и серебра. Переломный момент для компании настал в 1950‑х годах с приходом в бизнес сына Джованни – Карло. Получив образование индустриального дизайнера, он начал сотрудничать с различными архитекторами и специалистами в области интерьера, результатом чего стал широкий ряд изделий для отелей и частных покупателей. Кофеварка Ричарда Сеппера, созданная им в 1978 году, стала большим успехом, как и соковыжималка Juicy Salif для цитрусов Филиппа Старка в 1980‑х. По сравнению со своими современниками Алесси предложил совершенно иной подход к дизайну, уделив внимание практической составляющей и кропотливому мастерству. Сегодня предметы интерьера Alessi известны далеко за пределами Италии; большой выбор всевозможных изделий, включая настенные часы и светильники, пользуются большим спросом у покупателей в самых разных странах мира. Многие знаменитые итальянские бренды одежды расширили свой ассортимент, начав выпускать товары для дома. Один из ярких

примеров – Missoni. Дом моды, руководство над которым уже третье поколение подряд принадлежит одной и той же семье, делает ставку на семейные традиции не только в бизнесе, но и в дизайне. Розита Миссони, основавшая бренд вместе со своим мужем Оттавио в 1953 году, полагает, что любой дом должен быть гостеприимным пространством, обеспечивающим равные условия для работы и отдыха. «В моем представлении домашний интерьер должен быть организованным и вместе с тем неформальным, разносторонним и приветливым, – говорит она. – Мой дом всегда готов к новым встречам, внезапным гостям или семейным торжествам. Жизнь Розиты, чья девичья фамилия Джелмини, была неразрывно связана с производством тканей. Ее семье принадлежит половина текстильного предприятия T&J Vestor. В 1983 году компания стала партнером Missoni, когда была запущена линия Missoni Home. Продукцию Missoni Home отличает запоминающийся цветной узор в виде зигзага, благодаря которому компания прославилась в 1960-х годах. Радужная эмблема присутствует на аксессуарах, мебели и постельном белье. Missoni – одним из первых итальянских брендов одежды занялся выпуском предметов интерьера и доказал, что мода в доме не менее важна, чем в гардеробе. На сегодняшний день компания является одним из самых успешных в Италии интерьерных брендов. Gucci – еще один пример итальянского дома моды, решившего расширить сферу своего влияния на мир интерьера. В отличие от Missoni с его продолжительной историей в области дизайна интерьеров, Gucci предпринял данный шаг в прошлом году под руководством креативного директора Алессандро Микеле. Как и в случае с дизайном одежды, Микеле предлагает клиентам модифицировать вещи на свой вкус. По словам дизайнера, он хочет, чтобы его продукция несла в дом оттенок «современного романтизма Gucci». Коллекция Gucci Décor включает узоры, созданные Микеле специально для бренда: пчелы, тигры, мотыльки и змеи вручную нанесены на изделия из фарфора, свечи, ширмы, шелковые обои, подушки и многое другое. Gucci, Missoni, Alessi и Fornasetti – четыре globalblue.ru | globalblue.com

очень разных бренда, однако им присуща одна общая черта и это – приверженность качеству. Независимо от того, ищете ли вы кухонные принадлежности или ширму с узором в виде осьминога, важно помнить одно – продукция итальянских дизайнеров будет всегда нести в себе высочайший стандарт качества и мастерства.

78: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

日本語

アーティストのスー・ティリーとのコラボで、職場にある静物（デスクランプ、ティーカップ、バナナなど）のイラストをシャツにプリントしたりジャケットに刺繍した作品もある。シルヴィア・ヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディにとってのポイントは、オフィスウェアのエッセンスを抽出し、それをより魅力的なものにすることだった。「仕事用のワードローブは、スーツありアスレジャーウェアあり出張に持っていきやすい生地ありと、 2018年春夏のショーで、イタリアの有力メンいろいろな要素が混ざったハイブリッド」だと、ニッズウェアレーベルがオフィスウェアの新ビジク・レムセンが『ファイナンシャル・タイムズ』で書いョンを提示した。べス・ドゥルースがレポーている。「現代の重職には、取締役会での役割を遥かに超えた責任が伴う」からだそうだ。これはマルニトする。のクリエイティブディレクター、フランチェスコ・リッソが春物をデザインする際に考えた要素で、スーツモダンなツーピーススーツは多くの人にとって職場のには対照色のパネルやピンストライプ、パッチワークユニフォーム。考案したのはボー・ブランメルと言って風の風合いが取り入れられていた。シャツの襟は開襟のまま、ネクタイをゆるく締めた男性の姿は、まるいいだろう。英国の摂政時代にファッションの権威だったブランメルは、19世紀初頭に流行った華美極でオフィスを離れて冒険にでも出かけるかのようだった。「都会の雑踏を軽やかに乗り切る」ことを意図しまる装いを避け、ダークなコートとフルレングスのズボン、完璧にアイロンのかかったシャツ、クラヴァットた服だと、リッソはショーの後で語っている。ボッテガ・ヴェネタのクリエイティブディレクター、を特徴とする仕立ての良いきっちりした服装を好んだ。それから200余年以上が過ぎ、クラヴァットを結トーマス・マイヤーも色やコンセプチュアリズムと無縁ぶのはさすがに勇気ある人に限られるかもしれないが、ツーピーススーツは男性ならほぼ誰でも持っている。イタリアのメンズウェアデザイナーが現代のオフィスウェアの意味に着目した今シーズン、スーツはコレクションの重要アイテムだ。フェンディでは、クリエイティブディレクターのシルヴィア・ヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディが、従来の代表的なオフィスウェア（茶のピンストライプのスーツやグレーのチェックのダブルスーツ、シルクのネクタイ、革のローファー）を、毛皮を使ったベースボールジャケットやスウェードの袖が付いたカーディガン、カラーパネルを配したレインコートなどありきたりでないカジュアルな装いにスタイリングし直した。ルックスの多くは上半身はシャツとジャケットで勤め人風、下半身は短パンとサンダルでカジュアルだ。シルヴィア・ヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディはこれを「ハーフ・スカイプ・ルック」と名付けている。ファッション評論家のティム・ブランクスが『ビジネス・オブ・ファッション』のウェブサイトで「スカイプをする時、相手に見えるのは上半身だけ。だから上については努力する。下はどうでもいいのだ」とコメントしている。まあ、どうでもいいというのは言い過ぎだろう。シルヴィア・ヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディが考えていたのは、赤のギンガムチェックの短パンに革のスライダーサンダル、クリーム色のジョッパーズスタイルパンツにスターラップアンクル、光沢のある耐水性コンバットパンツといった装いだ。

40: ADVENTURES IN WORKWEAR 仕事着の概念を覆す斬新なワークウェア

上：ボッテガ・ベネタ春/夏2018

ではない。今シーズンは勤め人のユニフォームに生気を吹き込むチャンスだと思ったに違いない。ブレザーに代えて、ポケットの付いた短丈のワーカージャケットを、同ブランドお馴染みのイントレチャート（革の格子編み）を施した茶スウェードを含め様々なスタイルで繰り出した。シルクや丈夫な革でできたゆったりめのトレンチコートもある。雰囲気はくつろげるオフィス着といったところ。オフィスの厳格なドレスコードに従おうとする人よりも、現代的なメテロセクシャル向けの服だ。デザイナーが思い切りの良さを見せたのが色味で、シークインを施した薄ピンクの革ジャンからシャルトリューズイエローのベロアで作ったジップスルーのボマージャケットまで、様々な色が舞台上に咲いた。以前から高級ビジネススーツの代名詞といわれるジョルジオ・アルマーニでは、同レーベルの「いいところ」どりをしたコレクションを披露。80年代に人

気のあったグレーシルクの古典的なダブルスーツがその一つで、若干細めのカットで今風になっていた。コレクションの大方はグレー系。一つ一つの作品が洗練されたニュートラルカラーのバリエーションで、テクスチャーの変化で見せた。カジュアルなワーカースタイルのチノパンには箔プリントのジップアップ・アノラックを組み合わせ、ウォッシュアウトしたウールのチェック柄のパンツにはシワ加工したメタリックなボマージャケットといった具合だ。ジョルジオ・アルマーニは、仕事日にドレスダウンはどうしてもできないという男性用に、ピンストライプやネイビーブルーのシングルスーツも用意した。そして最後に登場したのがまばゆい白のスーツ6着。シンプルなテクスチャーコントラストの魅力を再度見せつけた。ショーの間、キャットウォークの背景に「メイド・イン・アルマーニ」の文字が投影され、スーツに関してはあらゆるスタイルを網羅するジョルジオ・アルマーニを静かに印象付けていた。ボー・ブランメルは装いの華麗さで知られ、身支度に一日5時間かけているだのブーツをシャンペンで磨いているだのと噂された。今どきの働く男にはそうした日課は実際的ではないかもしれないが、イタリアのデザイナーたちは彼の精神に通ずるような洒落っ気のあるオフィスウェア作りを明らかに楽しんでいる。 globalblue.com

50: ART AT THE HEART OF THE HOME

暮らしの中のイタリアンデザインイタリアの4大インテリアブランドのうち、二つはファッションレーベルから発展したもので、あと二つはインスピレーション溢れるホームウェアを発端とする。共通するのは華麗さと至高の職人技。レベッカ・リース・エヴァンズが案内する。イタリアンスタイルといえば専らファッションかというと、そうではない。この国のインテリアデザイナーや家庭用品メーカーは世界中で憧れの的になっているのだ。それには、彼らがイタリアの熟練職人に受け継がれる伝統を大事にし、優れた素材を使っていることに対する称賛も込められている。スカンジナビアや日本のデザイントレンドは実用性本位で人気を博しているが、イタリアのインテリアデザインはそれとは全く違うもっと華やかな美学が根底にある。美しく手描きされた陶器や贅沢なシルクのクッションがつきもので、色やプリント柄もイタリア人は決して敬遠しない。高級家庭用品ブランドの中には個別作品の創作を端緒とするものもあれば、ファッション界で評判を築いた後にインテリアデザインへ進出したものもある。ピエロ・フォルナセッティは、20世紀に名をはせたイタリア人創作家の一人として今も有名だ。ミラノ出身で画家であり彫刻家であり室内装飾家でもあった彼はユーモラスな折衷スタイルで知られ、およそ1万 1000点の作品を創ったといわれる。フォルナセッティの名は今やイタリアンインテリアデザインの代名詞。1988年にピエロが亡くなった後は息子のバルナバが家業を継いだが、自社製造は継続した。この自社製造はイタリアの手工芸文化に欠かせない要素だ。フォルナセッティブランドの最も有名なモチーフは、1990年代初頭のオペラ歌手で美しさとカリスマ性で知られるリナ・カヴァリエリの顔だ。フォルナセッティは1952年に彼女の顔を雑誌で見てすっかり魅了され、彼女の肖像を使った印象的なデザインの商品をいくつも作った。道化師や盗賊、アラビアの王女などリナ・カヴァリエリの姿をいろいろに想像して有名なフォルナセッティの磁器に描いた。同社は今ではラグや照明、壁紙、ファブリック、タイル、ジュエリー、シルクのスカーフ、ホームフレグランスなども作っている。アレッシィの出発点はもっと実用的で、1921年にジョヴァンニ・アレッシィが銅や真鍮、銀製の小型家庭用品メーカーとして設立したのが始まりだ。上品で

しかも実用的なアイテムを作る企業へのターニングポイントは、1950年代にジョヴァンニの息子カルロが家業を継いだ時だった。工業デザイナーとして修業したカルロは社外のデザイナーや建築家とのコラボレーションを開始し、個人向けだけでなくホテル向けの商品レンジも手掛けたのだ。リチャード・サッパーがデザインしたエスプレッソメーカー（1978年）は特に好評で、フィリップ・スタルクによるレモン絞り器「ジューシーサリフ」（1980年代）も大ヒットした。アレッシィが提供する家庭用品のデザインは同年代のメーカーとは全く別の類で、必要な機能を備えつつ丁寧な職人技が光るものだった。今やアレッシィはイタリアンキッチンウェアの定番ブランドだが、時計やランプなど秀逸の品が揃う室内装飾品の国際レーベルとしても話題を呼んでいる。一方、イタリアの有名ファッションブランドの中にも家庭用品の分野に進出したものがある。最も注目すべきものの一つがミッソーニだ。現在は創業者ファミリーの3代目が経営するこのブランドは、ビジネスだけでなくデザインにおいても家族の存在感が際立つ。1953年に夫のオッタヴィオと共同でレーベルを立ち上げたロジータ・ミッソーニは、家庭とは仕事と遊びのバランスを調整できる温かいスペースであるべきという信念の持ち主で、「私の室内装飾は、秩序がありながらインフォーマル、かつ多目的で人を温かく迎え入れる住空間づくり」だと言う。「私の家は、来客や通りすがりの人、行き来する家族、思いがけなく訪れる友人に対して常にオープンなんです。」旧姓はロジータ・イェルミニ。ファブリック製造業界とは生来強い関係がある。イェルミニ一族がテキスタイルメーカーT&Jヴェスターの半分を所有しているのだ。1983年にミッソーニがインテリアライン「ミッソーニ・ホーム」を始めた時、T&Jヴェスターは必然のパートナーだった。 1960年代にファッションブランド「ミッソーニ」を有名にし、今もお馴染みのカラフルなジグザグ模様は、ミッソーニ・ホームの目玉でもあり、虹色のグラデーションがアクセサリーから家具、寝具まで幅広い商品に見られる。ミッソーニはファッションからインテリアへいち早く進出したイタリアンレーベルの一つで、ワードローブだけでなく家にとってもファッションが大切なことを証明した。現在、同社はイタリアで最も成功しているインテリアブランドだ。グッチも家庭用品部門を開発した有名イタリアンファッションブランドの一つだ。家庭用品を長年デザインしてきたミッソーニとは違い、グッチはクリエイティブディレクター、アレッサンドロ・ミケーレの下で昨年進出したばかり。ミケーレは、服のデザインと同様にインテリアについても、使う人が個人的なテーストに合わせてアイテムをカスタマイズすることよう勧め

ている。自分のデザインで「グッチの現代ロマンチシズムを家庭に」加えられれば嬉しいという。「グッチデコール」コレクションの特徴はミケーレが同ブランドのために考案した蜂や虎、蛾、蛇といったモチーフで、磁器やロウソク、フレンチスクリーン、シルクの壁紙などに手描きされたり、クッションに刺繍されたりしている。グッチ、ミッソーニ、アレッシィ、フォルナセッティの4ブランドはそれぞれ大きく異なるが、品質へのこだわりという点では共通している。キッチン用品であろうが蛸模様プリントのフレンチスクリーンであろうが、イタリアンデザインハウスの製品には素晴らしい職人の技が光っている。

78: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。 2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ:

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

SOUVENIR

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