SHOP Rome SS19

ROME | 罗马 | РИМ | ローマ

ROME

DISCOVER ROME: enjoy the best luxury shopping in Italy’s vibrant capital with our insiders’ guide

Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2019

CARRY IT OFF: findCOVER the bestTITLE: new coverline copy in bags this season English coverline copy in English ETERNAL GLAMOUR: explore the opulence of Rome’s rich jewellerymaking history

BIRGIT & FARETTA PIAZZA DELLA SCALA MILANO, ITALY SPRING SUMMER 2019

#WELOVEMILANO TWINSETOFFICIAL

ROMA VIA DEL CORSO, 122 VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 245 VIALE EUROPA, 70 GALLERIA COMM. PORTA DI ROMA

BIRGIT GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE MILANO, ITALY SPRING SUMMER 2019

EDITOR’S LETTER

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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of Italy’s historic and stylish capital. Rome has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 50. Don’t miss our feature on the city’s glamorous jewellery brands (page 36) and find out how some of Italy’s top fashion labels are reinventing classic looks for the 21st century (page 44). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Rome. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, to find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Rome

CONTRIBUTORS RUI RICARDO

LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London before pursuing a career in publishing. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of several titles, including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire. globalblue.com

RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD SHOP’s acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard is from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. He studied journalism in Glasgow and now lives in south-east London. Ruairidh is a fan of all things Italian and has written about fashion, art, culture and food for a variety of publications.

FANI MARI Fani Mari, SHOP’s deputy fashion editor, is originally from Greece. She moved to London to study journalism and psychology at City University and has also completed a master’s degree in fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins - University of the Arts London.

ILLUSTRATION: RUI RICARDO – FOLIO ART; PHOTOS: (CENTRE) MICHAEL CHAPMAN; (RIGHT)VANITYSTUDIOS.CO.UK

Rui Ricardo created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Rome. His highly polished style is perfectly showcased in this stylish composition, which features a fashion shoot taking place in Rome’s beautiful Piazza Navona. Rui’s other clients include the Wall Street Journal, British Airways and Esquire magazine. Discover SHOP Rome and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Rui Ricardo – Folio Art Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture Assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Social media strategy and branded partnerships manager Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editor Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Junior designers Kiranjeet Kaur, Tatjiana Antoniou Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Key account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Ilaria Sassarini, Marco Savino, Andrea Zavattarelli Account managers Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Diana Martin, Marta Miserendino, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Vincenzo Saponara, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Sellout team Giulia Belligrandi, Erika Bordoni, Claudia D’Alessandro, Grazia Clemente, Livia Gargelli, Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue

ROMA VIA FRATTINA 42/43 CENTRO COMM. EUROMA 2 CENTRO COMM. PORTA DI ROMA LOC. BUFALOTTA VIA APPIA NUOVA 7/11

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ROME STORIES VANESSA MOODY

CONTENTS CHECK OUT 18

SHOP WINDOW 30

ROME GUIDE 50

SHOP selects a standout piece from Rome this season

Discover the new Marni boutique on Via del Babuino

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome

PRODUCTS 20

NEWS 32

Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

ESSENTIALS 68

TRANSLATIONS 70 中文翻译 73 Русский Перевод 79 日本語翻訳

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

SOUVENIR 80 The essential item to bring home

FEATURES ETERNAL GLAMOUR 36 Taking their lead from Rome’s rich jewellerymaking history, Italian jewellers are keeping the spirit of opulence alive in a thoroughly modern way, as Lucinda Turner discovers

The world’s major heritage labels are drawing on their roots as they look forward. Some of Italy’s top brands are among those reinterpreting their archives this season, reports Fani Mari Above (from top): Defina Delettrez Pink Dots ring spring/summer 2019; a wall of Baguette bags at Palazzo Fendi

PHOTO: (TOP) S.CESARONI

BACK TO THE FUTURE 44

MAXMARA.COM ROMA - Via dei Condotti, 17 - Via Frattina, 28 - Via Nazionale, 28

CHECK OUT

Delfina Delettrez jewellery gets a rock ‘n’ roll update this season with a playful take on piercings. Signature rings, necklaces and earrings sport these striking embellishments. The 18-carat rose gold Dots ring, pictured, has piercings by two white diamonds, adding an element of punk to the otherwise elegant design. Delfina Delettrez founded her namesake label in 2007 in Rome, and she often Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

includes playful details in her collections, such as lips, eyes and bees. Every year she releases new styles that make perfect additions to any jewellery collection. fm Delfina Delettrez, Pink Dots ring, €6,000, Delfina Delettrez, Via del Governo Vecchio 66-67, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 4105, delfinadelettrez.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

PHOTO: S.CESARONI

PLAYFUL PUNK

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Uno de 50 ring, €105, Uno de 50, Via del Babuino 158A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 323 2726, unode50.com

Maje jacket, €450, Maje, Via del Babuino 167, 00187 Rome, +39 06 322 3317, maje.com

BRIGHT

IDEAS

Create a strong statement in shades of yellow and orange with bold gold details

Pinko bag, €285, Pinko, Via dei Due Macelli 90-94, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 2091, pinko.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

Max Mara shoes, €430, Max Mara, Via Frattina 28, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3638, maxmara.com

PHOTOS: (BAG) TOMMASO VECCHI; (RING) JORGE PANIZO

Benetton trousers, €39.95, United Colors of Benetton, Piazza di Trevi 91-94, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6919 0919, benetton.com

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Sandro belt, €95, Sandro, Via del Babuino 53A-53B, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3211 0245, sandro-paris.com

Marco Bicego necklace, €9,460, Angeletti, Via Bocca di Leone 58, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3700, marcobicego.com

PHOTOS: (BLOUSE) ALESSANDRO RUSSO; (BELT) FRED FURGOL; (BRACELET) TIFFANY & CO

Tiffany & Co bracelet, €7,800, Tiffany & Co, Via dei Condotti 55, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 3941, tiffany.com

Twinset blouse, €250, Twinset, Via del Corso 122, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6992 3930, twinset.com

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Escada earrings, €399, Escada, Piazza di Spagna 7, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6995, escada.com

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Moschino bag, €300, Moschino, Via del Babuino 156, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 1144, moschino.com

Prada bag, €3,200, Prada, Via dei Condotti 88-90, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0897, prada.com

CARRY IT OFF

Miu Miu bag, €1,400, Miu Miu, Via del Babuino 91, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3600 4884, miumiu.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

Jimmy Choo bag, €995, Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 9436 7528, jimmychoo.com

PHOTO: (JIMMY CHOO) KAREN BENGALL PHOTOGRAPHY

Day bags need to be functional and carry all your essentials; opt for a style with fun details such as gold embellishments and prints

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SHOP HIGHLIGHT

Longchamp bag, €390, Longchamp, Piazza di Spagna 82, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4547 9030, longchamp.com

PHOTO: (LONGCHAMP) CHRISTOPHE PETITEAU

Roberto Cavalli bag, €1,550, Roberto Cavalli, Via Borgognona 25, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 5469, robertocavalli.com

Louis Vuitton bag, €3,550, Louis Vuitton, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 41, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 9520, louisvuitton.com

SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello bag, €1,990, Saint Laurent, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 17, 00186 Rome, +39 06 679 5577, ysl.com

Burberry bag, €1,850, Burberry, Via dei Condotti 59-61, 00187 Rome, +39 06 675 0101, burberry.com

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Ray-Ban sunglasses, €152, Ray-Ban, Via del Corso 417, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6813 9607, ray-ban.com

Brunello Cucincelli shirt, €580, Brunello Cucinelli, Via del Babuino 150D, 00187 Rome, +39 06 321 4038, brunellocucinelli.com

Choose a tonal look for spring/ summer 2019 with shades of brown, from chocolate to tan

Ermenegildo Zegna belt, €280, Ermenegildo Zegna, Via dei Condotti 58, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0678, zegna.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

Ami trousers, €220, Gente, Via del Babuino 77-78, 00187 Rome, +39 06 320 7671, amiparis.com

Church’s shoes, €490, Church’s, Via dei Condotti 57, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6919 0920, church-footwear.com

PHOTOS: (SHIRT) FRANCESCO STELITANO; (SUNGLASSES) LULY DELLA LUCIA

NEW NEUTRALS

ROMA Via Via Via Via Via

Frattina, 84/B del Tritone, 30 Vittorio Veneto, 130 Cola di Rienzo, 191 Appia Nuova, 63

V.le Libia, 19 Via Tuscolana, 883/A Piazza Enrico Fermi, 8 Centro Comm.le Euroma2

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IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5mm watch, €12,300, IWC, Piazza di Spagna 28, 00187 Rome, +39 06 452201, iwc.com

Cartier Privé Tonneau watch, price on request, Cartier, Via dei Condotti 83, 00187 Rome, +39 06 696751, cartier.com

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski Ceramic watch, €15,500, Bedetti, Piazza di San Silvestro 9-12, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 7941, hublot.com

ON TIME

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic watch, €6,850, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piazza di Spagna 92, 00187 Rome, +39 06 452 0241, jaeger-lecoultre.com

Montblanc 858 Monopusher Chronograph watch, €28,700, Montblanc, Via dei Condotti 70, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1894, montblanc.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer02 watch, €8,850, Nicoli, Via Casetta Mattei 130, 00148 Rome, +39 06 655 6929, tagheuer.com

PHOTO: (JAEGER) DENIS HAYOUN/DIODE SA

Add a touch of elegance to your wrist and choose your next watch in leather, silver and more

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MAKE IT MONOCHROME A statement maxi dress and bold accessories will see you from day to night throughout the season

Celine by Hedi Slimane sunglasses, €330, Celine, Via dei Condotti 20A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 7594, celine.com

Chloé bag, €1,090, Gente, Via del Babuino 77/81, 00187 Rome, +39 06 320 7671, chloe.com

Aquazzura shoes, €495, Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, aquazzura.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

Longchamp dress, €990, Longchamp, Piazza di Spagna 82, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4547 9030, longchamp.com

PHOTOS: (BAG) STANISLAS WOLFF; (SHOES) MARCO LAMBRI

Jil Sander earrings, €140, Bagheera, Piazza Euclide 30, 00197 Rome, +39 06 807 0046, jilsander.com

Via Tomacelli, 147 - Roma Fiumicino APT Terminal 3 - Area E / Terminal 3 - Molo D

SHOP WINDOW

MARNI’S NEW HOME Italian fashion house Marni has a new store in Rome, on the city’s fashionable Via del Babuino. The shop offers all of the label’s collections, from women’s and men’s ready-to-wear to accessories, kids’ collections and limited-edition versions of the brand’s striking furniture. These are displayed across a single floor in a sequence of beautifully decorated rooms. The store is part of a wider expansion for Marni, which also has new openings in Florence, Paris and Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

New York. The interior design of the Rome store is inspired by the 1960s Roman artistic movement Scuola di Piazza del Popolo, making this new boutique well worth a visit. rp Marni, Via del Babuino 75, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6320, marni.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

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SARTORIAL FLAIR

IN BRIEF

Last year, Aesop At its new boutique on Via del opened a new Babuino, Italian menswear label Corneliani showcases a carefully store in Rome. Marrying the created store concept that gives city’s grand customers an immersive brand architectural experience. The shop presents a heritage with blend of tradition and Aesop’s modernity. Offering the label’s celebrated trademark luxury and minimalist craftsmanship, the products are aesthetic, the presented in beautifully created store carries the rooms complete with vintage brand’s furniture. Collections are complete range displayed against an elegant backdrop of walnut battens, tiles of skin, hair and bodycare handmade in Mantua, and green products, marble surfaces. Enjoy including its made-to-measure services as popular travel well as Corneliani’s seasonal kits collections, which include suiting, shirts, outerwear, accessories and footwear. rre Corneliani, Via del Babuino 70A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3209 1615, corneliani.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

PICTURE PERFECT Leica’s D-Lux 7 (€1,190) is one of its latest releases that are ideal for travel. The compact camera incorporates key features of the Leica D-Lux line, such as automatic exposure mode and manual settings. Highlights of the new model include a 2.8-megapixel electronic viewfinder, a touchscreen display and improved hardware. It also has 4K video recording options, Bluetooth connectivity and a Wi-Fi module. In addition, this camera can be used with the Leica Fotos app (the first in the D-Lux line to do so). Compact in size without

comprising on image quality, the Leica D-Lux 7 is perfect for capturing the sights of Rome and your best holiday moments. grc

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

Leica, Via dei Due Macelli 57, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 0813, leica-camera.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 55

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MODERN ADVENTURE For its spring/summer 2019 womenswear, Woolrich accomplishes what it does best ‒ seamlessly fusing functionality and style. The collection features performance materials, whether in the three-in-one Winola short parka, made from highly resistant cotton, or in the Erie windbreaker and Dauphine anorak styles. Spring/summer 2019 also offers a reminder of Woolrich’s technical prowess, as seen in the reversible Moraine bomber and the update of the brand’s popular fishtail parka, which comes with detachable sleeves and in a tri-layered cotton version. Tropical prints and checks are recurring motifs, counterbalanced by beiges and khaki. Woolrich recently introduced footwear to its offering, and this season it offers a choice of hiking boots, sneakers and sandals. The entire spring/ summer collection is offered at the new Woolrich store in Rome. grc Woolrich, Via del Babuino 54-55, 00187 Rome, +39 06 8715 5104, woolrich.eu FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

SIGNATURE STYLE For spring/summer 2019, footwear brand Moreschi launches GBM sneakers for men which pay tribute to Gian Beppe Moreschi, son of the founder and the brand’s current president. Made of soft deer leather, and with rubber soles, the sneakers (pictured, €380) are embroidered in red with Gian Beppe Moreschi’s signature - which also appears on a navy slip-on style, for a more formal look. The shoes combine Moreschi’s craftsmanship

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with a contemporary aesthetic. The brand’s spring/summer collection also features a wide range of other styles including moccasins, sandals, doublemonk strap and derby shoes. grc

Moreschi, Via Frattina 47-49, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 1305, moreschi.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 57

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LIGHT FANTASTIC In March, jewellery brand Pomellato introduced new elements to its Nudo collection, known for ingenious prong-free designs. A new sautoir – a long chain necklace set with stones – can be worn in three different ways; as a classic sautoir, as a lariat pendant necklace or as a double-wrap necklace. The gems on the necklace have a special double-face cut consisting of 57 facets, with a striking, light-catching effect. Spring 2019 also sees the introduction of obsidian to the brand’s range. This polished volcanic glass adds captivating smoky beauty to Nudo rings and earrings. Besides being stunning, Pomellato jewellery is crafted consciously and the brand has been commended for 100% responsible gold purchasing. grc Pomellato, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 38, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 9790, pomellato.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 64

GREEK HOLIDAY The spring/summer 2019 collection of footwear brand Gianvito Rossi is inspired by holidays on Greek islands and offers sleek silhouettes and elegant designs. The brand’s famous stiletto heels are incorporated into new shapes. Leopard print appears in various guises, paired with black lace embroidery or on sling backs and pointy toe sandals for a lavish touch. Other design features include crystal chains, vibrant shades such as turquoise and yellow, and cone heels. With everything from knee-high boots to caged sandals, Gianvito Rossi’s collection will leave you spoiled for choice. grc Gianvito Rossi, Via Borgognona 27, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1926, gianvitorossi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 57 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

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SEA CHANGE One of La Mer’s latest releases, the Treatment Lotion Hydrating Mask (€25) is perfect to help revitalise tired skin when travelling. The sheet mask uses a marine-inspired formula that draws on the brand’s impressive skincare expertise. Made from millions of microfibres for a super-soft effect, the mask envelops the skin to imbue it with energising and hydrating properties. The Treatment Lotion Hydrating Mask combines some of La Mer’s renowned ingredients; Miracle Broth™, which includes sea kelp, hydrates and soothes; Revitalizing Ferment incorporates various algae, minerals and nutrients, that help refresh and replenish; Deconstructed Waters™ helps renew and hydrate skin. Working together, these ingredients provide deep hydration, with soothing effects for plump, energised and youthful looking skin. grc Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, lamer.eu FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 62 globalblue.com

GREAT MINDS For spring/summer 2019, Paul & Shark presents a collaboration with Nick Wooster, in which the Italian brand’s style is reinterpreted by the American designer. In the capsule collection some of Paul & Shark’s key menswear looks are updated in vibrant colours and prints. Light cashmere knits come in fluorescent shades, and parkas, shirts and shorts have a patchwork effect. The range plays with fabrics in exciting ways, including reversible outerwear. The Nick Wooster x Paul & Shark capsule collection will appeal to all style lovers. grc Paul & Shark, Via dei Due Macelli 53, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 7004, paulshark.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 55

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Eternal Glamour

PHOTO: ANTONIO BARRELLA

S H O P | 37

Taking their lead from Romeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich jewellery-making history, contemporary Italian jewellers are keeping the spirit of opulence alive in the most thoroughly modern way, as Lucinda Turner discovers Above: choosing stones for a Pasquale Bruni necklace design

rom Gregory Peck taking Audrey Hepburn for a spin around the Trevi Fountain on a certain Roman holiday to Federico Fellini capturing the city’s indescribable dolce vita on film, Italy’s capital is a beacon of glamour throughout the world. Look even further back, to the height of the Roman empire, and you will find that the women of Rome defined new fashions by adorning themselves with jewels in a way that had never been seen before. Moving jewellery on from the ancient Greek affinity with intricate metalwork, Roman women favoured brightly coloured gemstones set in rich yellow gold, and this was one of the first civilisations in the world where people made a bold, colourful aesthetic statement with gems. Today, modern Rome’s dedication to glamorous jewellery shows no signs of waning. From globally famous jewellery houses to smaller Italian ateliers, the Eternal City remains a hotbed of creativity and a constant source of opulent jewels. 70 79

However, despite the city’s longstanding jewellery-making tradition, an industry cannot survive on history alone. How do houses, both emerging and well-established, navigate the ever-changing jewellery market and ensure that customers who come to appreciate Rome’s majestic past leave with a piece of its bright future? One house that has embraced the city’s past, present and future when it comes to jewellery making is Bulgari. The international luxury goods label was founded in Rome in 1884 and its headquarters remain here to this day. The brand’s logo even replaces the U with a V as a nod to the ancient Roman alphabet. The art, architecture and quintessential essence of Rome have always been of great importance to the brand, serving as muses for some of the its most famous collections, including the Diva’s Dream range, inspired by ancient Roman mosaics, and the B01 ring, based on the Colosseum. ‘Bulgari is Rome. We were born here and Above (clockwise from left): Bulgari’s B01 ring; the facade of the brand’s flagship store on Via dei Condotti; two designs from the label’s Diva’s Dream collection

PHOTOS: ANTONIO BARRELLA

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WOMEN’S BOUTIQUE VIA DEL BABUINO, 152 ROME +39 06 6788944

MEN’S BOUTIQUE VIA BORGOGNONA, 21 ROME +39 06 6787718

SHOP AT TESTONI.COM

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Eugenia Bruni is inspired by nature and the contemporary way that women wear jewellery it is our first source of inspiration both for high jewellery and watches,’ says Vincenzo Pujia, the brand’s Europe managing director. ‘Our design and creative teams are based in Rome. When commuting to the office every day, they walk through the most amazing architecture, design, colours, lights and voices of the city.’ The label’s connection to the Italian capital runs so deep that in 2014, to celebrate its 130th anniversary, Bulgari donated €1.5 million to restore the iconic Spanish Steps. While some consider Bulgari’s heyday to have been the glamorous 1950s and 60s, when stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Ingrid Bergman would parade through Rome wearing the brand’s magnificently colourful designs, the label is far from stuck in the past. Bulgari’s innovation sets it apart, from being the first to use cabochon-cut stones, at the end of the 1950s, to its contemporary high jewellery collections, which Pujia describes as ‘the peak of the pyramids’. Bulgari’s ranges

use the most contemporary techniques and spectacular stones to attract the purchasing power of modern-minded Millennials. Indeed, Bulgari prides itself on catering to the exacting demands of its customers. ‘What our customers today ask us is to have something very feminine but also easy to wear both for formal and informal occasions,’ says Pujia. When designing for such a discerning audience, a key part of Bulgari’s approach lies in its Italian roots. ‘Thanks to our very Italian aesthetic, our collections are timeless. We respect the past, we leverage the success of our history and our new collections embody the real Roman brand DNA and joy of life,’ Pujia explains. Pasquale Bruni, which launched a new store concept in Rome in 2018, is another Italian brand that understands the needs of the modern jewellery customer. ‘Women are ever more confident, they know what they want and they buy for themselves,’ says creative director Eugenia Bruni. ‘Women

Above (from left): Pasquale Bruni craftsmanship; the brand’s Amore 4th Chakra rings

Acne Studios Agnona Azzedine AlaÏa Alanui Alberta Ferretti Alexander McQueen Attico Balenciaga Balmain Bottega Veneta Burberry Calvin Klein 205W39NYC Celine Chloé Christian Louboutin COMME des GARÇONS Dolce & Gabbana Dries Van Noten Dsquared2 Faith Connexion Fendi For Restless Sleepers Francesco Russo Gianvito Rossi Givenchy Golden Goose Deluxe Brand Gucci Hals Halston Heritage Isabel Marant J Brand Jacquemus Jil Sander Jimmy Choo J W Anderson Ken Kenzo

Lanvin Loewe Malone Souliers Manolo Blahnik Mansur Gavriel Marcelo Burlon County of Milan Marni Moncler MSGM Oﬀ -White P.A.R.O.S.H. Palm Angels Phylosophy by Lorenzo Seraani Prada Rag & Bone Redemption René Caovilla Roberto Cavalli Roger Vivier Saint Laurent Self-Portrait Stella McCartney The Row Thom Browne Unravel Project Valentino Versace Vetements Yves Salomon Yvonne Leon

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WOMEN BOUTIQUES

Via Cola di Rienzo 277 00192, Rome - Italy T. +39 06 3211516

Via di Vigna Stelluti 177 00191, Rome - Italy T. +39 06 36306208

Via del Babuino 77/81 00187, Rome - Italy T. +39 06 3207671 / 3230582

Via Frattina 92/93 00187, Rome - Italy T. +39 06 6789132

Viale Europa 91 00144, Rome - Italy T. +39 06 5924947

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are aware that they can change the world and I have always created jewellery meant to highlight a woman’s personality, a sort of talisman to encourage self-discovery.’ Eugenia Bruni took over the creative output of her father Pasquale Bruni’s eponymous line in 2001, injecting a contemporary and highly female-focused edge to the line. Eugenia Bruni is inspired by nature and the contemporary way that women wear jewellery, designing pieces that perfectly complement the wearer, with classic Italian craftsmanship still at the heart of the brand. ‘There are goldsmiths today who started working under my father that I used to observe, enraptured, when I was a little girl,’ she says. ‘Daily contact with our artisans is paramount to our work. While a jewel is being created, many things might happen, and you keep learning from the craftsmen, perfecting excellence.’ One of the city’s most intricate jewellers is on a mission to make classic Roman glamour part of everyday life. Percossi Papi has been creating vibrant, colourful pieces for his eponymous brand since 1968 at his small atelier based near the Pantheon. ‘In those years there was a strong desire to come out of the conventions. The clientele required a unique object, with attention to detail and which emphasised its individuality,’ says Papi of his early customers. Now with the help of Papi’s wife and two sons, the brand is known worldwide and is renowned for its ornate and exquisitely coloured earrings. It is also popular with key figures in the international fashion set and has created pieces for major films, including Elizabeth: The Golden Age and the 2017 version of Murder on the Orient Express. Inspired by baroque and renaissance designs, Percossi Papi’s work draws obvious inspiration from the city that it calls home. ‘I live in the centre of Rome, the Rome of Alexander VII, Bernini, Borromini so obviously certain lines have become automatic in my designs,’ he says. Unfailingly glamorous, part of the fabric of modern film and reconciling the old and the new for a discerning modern customer, Above: a selection of Percossi Papi designs

the jewellery scene in Rome has come a long way from noblewomen coveting coloured amulets across an ancient courtyard. ‘We Italians have an education to beauty that is historical,’ says Papi. ‘Italy has an incredible artistic heritage and works of art known all over the world.’ Indeed, the spirit of pushing boundaries, respecting beauty and adorning women in new and innovative ways has endured. ‘Rome is a magic space where people can inspire themselves to create the most amazing collections,’ Pujia says, and we couldn’t agree more

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xx xx

S H O P | 45

BACK TO THE

FUTURE

PHOTO: COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN DIOR

The world’s major heritage labels are drawing on their roots as they look to the future. Some of Italy’s top brands are among those reinterpreting their archives this season, reports Fani Mari

Left: Christian Dior with model Sylvie, circa 1948. This image is part of the Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London from 2 February – 14 July 2019, vam.ac.uk

t has never been more important for brands to have their own distinctive story to tell. In an ever-evolving digitised society, what better way to retain individuality than to draw on unique heritage? And where better to find that than in the archives? Major fashion houses across the world are looking backwards to go forwards, going back to their roots in search of the authenticity that chimes with discerning clients. Fashion is cyclical, trends come and go, but classics retain all their allure – to the extent that some world-famous brands have set up their own museums to display prizes from their past. These include the Museo Gucci in Florence, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, which has branches in Paris and in Marrakech, and the Christian Dior museum in Granville, France. Major retrospectives at the world’s greatest museums have also been devoted to leading fashion brands. Renowned 71 78

examples include the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty exhibition held in 2011 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and in 2015 at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London; the 2018 Azzedine Alaïa exhibition at the Design Museum in London, co-curated by the designer himself before his death in 2017; and Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, which runs at the V&A until mid July 2019. And some designers have a personal stake in the appeal of the archive; Kim Jones, former menswear artistic director at Louis Vuitton, holds one of the most comprehensive personal collections, including original pieces by Vivienne Westwood. Recent design examples considered worthy of a comeback include the Burberry logo reimagined by Peter Saville, the Celine logo, and Dior’s classic saddle bag. Italy’s top design names are also drawing on their roots. This season, look out for retro inspiration at Sergio Rossi, established in the 1960s, where the SR1 Above (from left): Celine spring/summer 2019; Christian Dior with model Lucky, circa 1955, this image is part of the Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London from 2 February – 14 July 2019 vam.ac.uk

PHOTO: (RIGHT) COURTESY OF CHRISTIAN DIOR

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S H O P | 47

PHOTO: (RIGHT) MAURIZI0 BEUCCI

Fashion is cyclical, trends come and go, but classics retain all their allure collection completes a lengthy heritage-linked project. The relaunch started in 2016, and 2017 saw the revamping of boutiques around the world, with the Rome store reopening in 2018. The number 1 signifies new beginnings, and the original SR identity is retained – the rebranding respects and promotes the brand’s heritage while continuing to develop its identity. The pumps in the SR1 collection are available with a pointed toe, a tribute to the 1990s that references the boldness of the legendary supermodels of that decade. Metallic details are also a reinvention of a past

style modernised for the future. The brand’s longstanding focus on femininity is referenced in the new collections, and the nappa leather that has been a Sergio Rossi favourite since the 1990s also ties into its background. The Fendi Baguette bag, a signature 1990s style, makes a strong comeback for spring/ summer 2019, with new colours and prints and an extra shoulder strap to make it more innovative and current than ever. Launched in 1997, the cult Baguette was designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi as an everyday bag, with a short strap worn close to the body; its narrow shape is reminiscent of the French bread from which it takes its name and it is carried under the arm in the same way. The spring/summer 2019 reinterpretations are varied – oversized, sequined, embellished, embossed with a double F, they make a strong statement for the future. Fendi has been synonymous with Roman style since it was founded in 1925; its famous Palazzo Fendi

Above (from left): a wall of Baguette bags at Palazzo Fendi; a Sergio Rossi craftsman at work

boutique was renovated in 2016 to house the first Fendi Hotel, featuring seven suites for special guests and a luxurious branch of the well-known Zuma Japanese restaurant. Swiss-founded Bally has reintroduced a men’s trainer originally created in 1990. The redesign of the Kuba reflects the popularity of athleisure and streetwear styles, bringing the brand right up to date, even as it looks to the archives. Bally references its history season after season, but the Kuba trainer is the first model that’s a reworked original. The tennis shoes honour the brand’s Swiss heritage, and the style is available in the colourway worn by tennis champion Jakob Hlasek, nicknamed Kuba, who inspired the original trainers. The line was presented at Pitti Uomo in Florence and is the modern model with the strongest relationship to the brand’s history. Founder Carl Franz Bally, who launched the company in 1851, always aimed to offer modern, functional designs and this remains the brand’s ethos, with the addition of ready-to-wear clothing and accessories with a retro aesthetic. Few brands have entwined a classic print

so closely with their identity and DNA as Etro has with paisley. Etro celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2018 and the brand’s strong heritage details have remained constant throughout its designs. The classic bohemianchic paisley motif made its first appearance in 1981 and has decorated everything from garments to leather goods to homeware. Etro’s extensive library, which includes hundreds of prints and fabrics from the 18th and 19th centuries, provides endlessly flourishing sources of inspiration. Each collection plays on classic paisley, whose droplet-shaped design is said to originate from the historic Asian region of Mesopotamia. The motif is constantly updated by Etro, but always remains connected to its roots. The brand was founded in 1968 by Gerolamo Etro, who was inspired by his travels and his passion for history, and it is still a family business with a strong personal theme to its collections. Similar to Etro, Salvatore Ferragamo, built on innovative shoe designs, possesses a substantial archive. The company holds more than 350 patents, and the 20,000 models in its archive date back to revolutionary styles from the 1920s. Materials and function have been a constant focus for the company throughout its history, evident in the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum that opened in Florence in 1995. This season, creative director Paul Andrew was inspired by a 1940 shoe made for actress Loretta Young. The woven sandal with a wooden, sculptural block heel has been reimagined by Andrew as a flatform style with leather woven details, and as a modern reiteration of the original sandal. The ready-towear line also drew inspiration from a picture of Young standing in front of a palm tree, seen in prints and silhouettes for spring/ summer 2019. All these brands are not merely replicating their past triumphs. They are reinventing them for the 21st century, combining the genius of the past with the ingenuity of the present and making much-loved classics freshly relevant to a modern clientele

Above: the 1991 advert for Bally’s Kuba trainers featuring Jakob Hlasek; Paul Andrew, creative director at Salvatore Ferragamo

PHOTO: (LEFT) BALLY

48 | F E AT U R E S

Franchisee Weekend Max Mara: ROMA - VIA COLA DI RIENZO, 265B

ROME GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Rome with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best places to find dapper tailoring for spring/summer to the beautiful architecture of the Monti district (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/rome.

PHOTO: DEZALB CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS

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Rinascente Shop luxury skincare and more at Italy’s renowned RC AR department store. I Rinascente, Via del Tritone 61/Via dei Due Macelli 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 879161, rinascente.it

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TRIDENTE AREA Via del Babuino

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56 | R O M E G U I D E

LEO PIZZO Established more than 45 years ago in the small Italian town of Valenza, Leo Pizzo is one of Italy’s most respected jewellery brands. It is known for its work with diamonds and its designs inspired by nature, and it is admired for its innovations as well as for the way it upholds time-honoured goldsmithing traditions. Its Flora collection is a tribute to spring and also offers pieces for women that can be worn all year round. Rings, bracelets and necklaces evoke the natural beauty of Italian gardens; wild flowers, powerful fragrances and striking colours are alluded to in the hues of blue and pink sapphires.

Leo Pizzo, Via del Babuino 154A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 321 9479, leopizzo.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

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GOR

VIA BORGOGNONA

D EI

DANIELE ANCARANI ●

VIA

VIA DE L CO RS

GRE

SAVOY ●

’FI OR I

MALO ● ATELIER-EME ● RUCOLINE ● HAVAIANAS ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

● DOMUS CALZATURE ● HAWKERS ● LAURA BIAGIOTTI ● NYA FIRENZE ● KIDS AROUND

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

ALBERTA FERRETTI ● NIKI NIKA ● PEUTEREY ●

VI A MA RI O DE

DAL SARTO ● PICCO GIOIELLI ●

PHOTO: MARCO RAVASINI

● FENDI

S H O P | 57

Via Condotti, Via Frattina & Via della Croce

XANDRINE ● MODA UOMO ●

PRETTY ● BALLERINAS ● CARTHUSIA ● CANETTA ● CAESAR

Pia zz a Di Sp ag na VIA BEL SIA NA

● NINA ● ABITART

● FLIRT ● CLIO

VIA DE L CO RS

MONCLER ● PRADA ● PRADA UOMO ● CARTIER ●

DAMIANI ● FALCONERI ●

VIA B E LSI ANA

● DIOR

● BULGARI

● GUCCI

● MICHAEL KO RS ● OMEGA

IORI

VIA

GENTE ROMA ●

DEI

DUE

CEL

● PATRIZIA ● MAJE ● GRATIAE COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS ● BIMBA Y LOLA ● LUISA VENIER ● POLO SPORT

● PETIT BATEAU ● MARTINI ● MAX MARA ● AMERICAN VINTAGE ● HIGH ● FITFLOP ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● PENNY BLACK ● FALCONERI ● OPTISSIMO ● DEFILE' OUTLET ● MARELLA ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● MORESCHI P.33 ● SANDRO ● SAVE MY BAG ● CASTELLI ● STILVETRO ● MANILA GRACE ● OTTICA EFRATI ● CALZEDONIA ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● KIEHL’S ● PAROSH

● GALASSIA ● BALDININI TREND

PIQUADRO ● ● BRUNO CALO' NASHI ARGAN ● ● BOCCADAMO ● JECKERSON UNO DE 50 ● ● MIDINETTE ● BRIGHENTI ● ELENA MIRÒ BOSS STORE ● ● DOPPELGANGER ● REMAX ELISABETTA ● CARPISA GO FRANCHI BY CELINE B ● PROFUMERIA CASTELLI ● CAMICISSIMA ●

VIA MAR IO DE’F

● BULGARI NEW CURIOSITY SHOP

TOD’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

FRANCESCO ROGANI ● MAX & CO ● VILEBREQUIN ●

VIA DE L CO RS

VIA MA RIO DE’

FIO RI

MARTINO MIDALI ●

FRAGIACOMO ● I CINQUE ●

QUETZALCOATL CHOCOLATIER ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

ADORE ●

DARIO VIS ●

V IA BE L SIA NA

VIA MA RIO DE’

FIO RI

● A TESTONI ● MONNALISA ROBERTO ● CAVALLI ● GIANVITO ROSSI

● IRO ● BLUMARINE ● LES COPAINS

BRUNELLO ● CUCINELLI

EDDY ● MONETTI

● MALO

● ALYSI

● COS ● & OTHER STORIES

P.34

IL BISONTE ● RENÉ CAOVILLA ● BALENCIAGA ●

GUCCI ● TUUM ● SPORTMAX ● STELLA MCCARTNEY ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● MARINA RINALDI ●

ALCOZER ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TIE SHOP ●

PEUTEREY ● NIKI NIKA ●

VIA BEL SIA N

COLOMBO ● HERNO ● TARTUFI & FRIENDS ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

VIA BORGOGNONA

Piazza Mignanelli ● FARMACIA IXOS ● PERSONA ● IORI VIA MAR IO DE’F LOUIS IORI SAINT LAURENT ● VIA MAR IO DE’F ● VUITTON TRUSSARDI ● POMPI ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● ● FIORENTINO VAN CLEEF ANDREA FABIANI ● SALVATORE ●B ● & ARPELS LIVIANA CONTI ● ● ENOTECA GUERRINI FERRAGAMO ● ANTICA SARTORIA ● MONTBLANC ● ● IKAAT ● MAX MARA GALLO ● GIOELLERIA VINTAGE ● ELEUTERI ● FAUSTO SANTINI ● JIMMY CHOO ● OTTICA CALÒ ● ● VENCHI SATEL LITE PARIS BIJOUX ● HERMÈS ● GRAZIELLA BRACCIALINI ● VIA BOCCA DI LEONE ● CELINE VIA BOCCA DI LEONE VIA BOCCA DI LEONE ● BRIONI ALVIERO MARTINI ● LOVE LIFE ● SALVATORE FASHION NOMINATION ● ● SERGIO ROSSI FERRAGAMO ● SPIMAR ● ● GALLERY ● SWATCH HARRY WINSTON ● ● LORO PIANA PURE ● VASARI ● STUART ● ANDREUCCI BURBERRY ● BRANDY GLAM COSE ● ● WEITZMAN & MELVILLE ● BATTISTONI ● ● HAUSMANN & CO MICARELLI ● FEDERICO ERMENEGILDO EMANUELA BEH HEART ● ● BUCCELLATI ZEGNA ● CARUSO CAPRI ● ACQUA ● COSE VERTECCHI ● CHURCH’S ● PINKO ● V IA BEL SIA N ● DELL’ELBA A ● ALBERTA FERRETTI REBECCA ● TIFFANY & CO ● ● ROLEX P.61 FABIO D ● GUESS ● VIA BEL SIA

STOP HERE ● ANTHEA STORE ● FLORENCE OF MOON ● SAVE MY BAG ● TWINS ● NUNY ● BOTTOM DOWN ● THIERRY RABOTIN ●

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA BORGOGNONA

WOLFORD ● L'OCCITANE ● ACQUA ● SWAROVSKI DELL'ELBA ● PANDORA ● TOUS ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

LILIA LEONI ● GIOCATTOLI ●

● JODIEL

LA ZUCCA ● STREGATA HAUTE ● PARFUMERIE

● CASHMERITALY

● #71 STORE ● IL PORTONE

● MARISA PADOVAN ● LA PEONIA

OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA ● NOVELLA

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

VIA FRAT TINA

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA FRATTIN A VI A F R AT TIN A

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA D ELL A CRO

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE

VIA DE LL E CA

Via Borgognona

Via delle Carrozze

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

S H O P | 59

VIA DEL CORSO AREA Via del Corso (North)

Via del Corso (Central) CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

Piazza Del Popolo

TIT E

LUXURY OUTLET ●

HOYA ●

DEL

L' IM P

RES

DAN JOHN ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

VIA SA N CL

● ZARA

Piazza Colonna

Galleria Alberto Sordi

AU DI A

VIA DI SAN TA MARIA IN V IA

Piazza del Parlamento

VIA

IPE

T TA

Non-Global Blue Retailer

VIA DEL L E CO NV ER

VIA DEL PA RL AM EN TO

VIA VITTORIA

VIA DELLA CROCE

VIT E

OYSHO ●

TIM MONDO WIND SLAM INTIMISSIMI SHOPIE CHARLOTTE STROILI CALVIN KLEIN PANDORA VODAFONE LEGAMI CHOPIN CARMENS

DI R

Global Blue Retailer

INTIMISSIMI ●

BERSKA ●

GAP ●

Largo dei Lombardi

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA DE L LA

BE TWEEN ●

REDFORD ●

● WYCON ● DISNEY STORE ● GRILLI

GA M BE

IC I

LIU JO UOMO DAVID MARC MORELLATO ALCOTT PEPE JEANS MANILA GRACE BERNABEI SIMONA INTIMISSIMI UOMO DA VINCI FRANCESCHINI

● POLO RALPH LAUREN ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO

COCCINELLE ●

TEF

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA DEI GRECI

VI A DE L

FOOT LOCKER ●

VIA DEL CORSO

PON

VANS ELISABETTA FRANCHI PERLA INGLOT MC2 SOLARIS COCCINELLE

NON

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● BRACCIALINI ● CLASS BOGGI ● DAMIANO ● PRESTA ● BOGGI

NIKE ● DEI

VI A IN LU CI N A

V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

● TISSOT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● VODAFONE ● PIKOLINOS ● MISS SIXTY

VIA DEL CORSO

CAMOMILLA ●

V IA

VIA DEL CORSO

BATA ● SEPHORA ● MAC ● KIKO ●

FLORENCE ●

N D OT T

VI A FR AT TIN A

● SISLEY

VIA DEL CORSO

HAVAIANAS ●

UIN

● DUNE

DADADA ●

N O VA

KIPLING COVER STORE BERNABEI ADELE ALTMAN SUBDUED KRUDER

RAY-BAN ● LUXURY OUTLET ● SISLEY ● DAVID HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● MR CHRISTMAS ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

VIA DI GESÙ E MARIA

NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

IO C A

● ● ● ● ● ●

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● PULL LOVE ● MARCO

AW LAB ●

N TO N

LUXURY OUTLET NEROGIARDINI LUSH TRIUMPH AS ROMA STORE TIMBERLAND

VIA BOR GOG

FOSSIL ● DESIGUAL ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

V IA C O

● SWAROVSKI ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO A

● NYX ● INTIMISSIMI UOMO ● TEZENIS ● PARFOIS ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI

BLACK COD ●

ELLA

● LIU JO

VIA BE LSIANA

ORIGINAL ● MARINES

VA N TA G G

VIA DEL CORSO

DEL

FERRARI

T O ● STORE M A FENDI ● CE LLI

● STEFANO RICCI

VI A D EL LA FON TAN

V IA A

● ESOTICA

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA

VIA DEL CORSO

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ●

DAVID HAMILTON ● GRATIE ●

V IA

H&M ●

● ALFIERI

VIA DELL ' OCA

●S RIP A RTO R ENS E IA

VIA DELLE CARROZ Z E

● TWIN-SET

L EO N C I N O

● CALZEDONIA ● DECCIO CARLO ● PARFOIS ● GOLDEN POINT ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● TALLY WEIJL ● DIESEL ● GUESS VIA BELSIANA

● BORSALINO ● ZEISS HOUSE

VIA DEL CORSO

GEOX ●

S H O P | 61

Via del Corso (South)

CHI

MAS ERG A V IA B

ZUIKI ● VI A DI

VIA DEL CORSO

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

PI E TR A

VIA DI SA NTA M A RIA IN VIA

TIM ●

TWO WAY ●

Galleria Piazza Colonna Alberto Sordi

MARINA MILITARE ● PIQUADRO ● ● MR CHRISTMAS LA FELTRINELLI ● ● SARTORIA ROSSI ● FURLA ● MASSIMO DUTTI

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI

VIA DELL E M UR ATT E

B U R RÒ

VATURI ● LA CONCERIA ●

VI A D E ’

BARONE ●

V I A D EL CA

VI A MAR CO MING

RAV ITA

CELIO ●

HETT I

VIC O LO S CIA

RRA

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER ● COVER STORE

V IA D

E LL'U

LEG IO RO M A

VIA DEL CO L

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA L ATA

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

M ILTÀ

VIA DI SAN M A R CELLO

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

VIA D EL CORSO

IN AT EC

VI A SS. A P O STO LI

● LA GARDENIA ● DOPPELGANGER ● EDAS

PHOTO: HEINRICH WEGMANN

VICOLO D ORIA

STEFANEL ●

VIA DEL CORSO

SCHEGGE ●

● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE VICOLO DEL PIO M B O

● OUTLET ● MONSANTO ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● ALLENBY STORE ● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

PIAZZA DEI SANTISSIM I APOSTOLI

● HAMMERSMITH

VI A DE L PLE BIS CIT

O VIA CE SA R E B AT TIS TI Piazza Venezia

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

ROLEX Step into the world of watches at Rome’s new Rolex boutique, created in collaboration with timepiece specialist Hausmann & Co, on prestigious Via dei Condotti. The boutique is mere moments away from Piazza di Spagna, and its decor reflects the style of some of the most striking signature Rolex timepieces. Emerald green details match the brand’s own colours, and marine-inspired motifs allude to the Rolex Oyster, the very first waterproof Rolex watch. The brand is renowned throughout the world for its exquisite classic designs and its precise timekeeping. If you’re looking for a forever timepiece that never goes out of style, this is the place to be. Hausmann & Co, Via dei Condotti 35A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 1347, rolex.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 57 Place Of Interest

62 | R O M E G U I D E

VIA DEL TRITONE AREA VI TE

VI A M A

VI A DE LL A

VIA DI P RO PAGA NDA

Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite, Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone R IO DÈ FI O RI

TECH IT EASY ● LA ZUCCA STREGATA ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJRI ● N9VE ● NEW BALANCE ● TIMBERLAND ●

ME RC ED

VIA DI CAP O

E FR

RT ITE VIA DEL L E CO N VE

ELL

G A LL I N A C C I O O DEL

V I CO L

RE ND

I POL VIA

CLASS ●

LI EL AC EM I D U JOELA ●

● OVS INDUSTRY

R IA

Featured In This Issue

N ET TE

Metro

LA PA

Non-Global Blue Retailer

V IA D EL

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

● MOUNTAIN AFFAIRS STORE

For spring/summer 2019, Fabiana Filippi takes inspiration from the idyllic landscape of Île Sainte-Marie off the coast of Madagascar. The womenswear brand champions luxury wardrobe staples and for this season offers a collection based on colours of nature on the island. Refined neutral tones of earthy green and golden beige evoke the coast, the sea and the sand while hues of plum, anthracite and mauve nod to the flowers on the tropical island. Discover relaxed silhouettes, boxy kimonos, crisp linen and flared trousers that reinterpret practicality for the modern woman. Fabiana Filippi, Via del Babuino 44-45, 00187 Rome, +39 06 323 3578, fabianafilippi.com

● GIOIELLERIA

FABIANA FILIPPI

Global Blue Retailer

BOX 51 ●

● STONEFLY

● MELLUSO

● MUJI

● SAXON'S

● SB LEATHER SHOP

VIA POL I

Piazza Fontan a di Trevi

Department Store

DI CORI ●

MR MUZIO ●

VIA DEL T RITO NE

VIA

Rinascente

I SA

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ●

TIGER ● OD STORE ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ●

O R TA

● REMAX

D EL M

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

VI A

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

VIA DEL CORSO

● SETTIMIO MIELI

● MACRON

Piazza di San Claudio

LARGO CHIGI

Galleria Alberto Sordi

VIA D

V I A D E L P OZ Z E T TO

● MEDICI ● GERARD

N C L AU DIO

P.35

● BEDETTI

LIMONI ● ANNA VIRGILI ● RIMOWA ●

VISION OPTIKA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

Piazza di San Silvestro

V IA D EI SA

LE CA

AT T E

VI A DE L LA

VIA

S H O P | 63

ERMANNO SCERVINO

GATTINON I ●

ISP CO

IC A

Z IO

IA N

R IF

LLA

C EI

VI A ZU

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI Piazza Barberini

VI A DE LL EQ TT UA

● PINOCCHIO

RO FO

● SANDRO FERRONE

● DOPPELGANGER

● VALLI

AN NT E

VENE

BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●

T O R IO

CC H EL

SI VIA RAS ELL

V IA V IT

ALTA MODA FURS ● CIR CORREDI ●

CC IO

● ADELE ALTMAN

VIA RA S ELL

L B OC CA

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E S I

VI A DE

CASUCCIO ● & SCALERA

IO N

● SAMSONITE

● PRONOVIAS RC

● MAX & CO ● R.BAZZOCCHI

VIA DEL TRITO NE

DAN JHON ● DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ● UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLARKS ● SOUVENIR SHOP ● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ● WHITE MOOD ● ESTHER ●

MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

V IA

ASE

The unmistakable style of Ermanno Scervino is renowned the world over. Founded in Florence in 2000, the brand combines Tuscan sartorial skill and classic Italian flair, with designs that range from experimental to flamboyant and timeless. Ermanno Scervino adheres strongly to the Made in Italy ethos, with every stage of the manufacturing process taking place at its headquarters just outside Florence ‒ from conception and sourcing of fine fabrics to the finished results. For spring/summer 2019 enjoy relaxed tailoring, metallic and silk fabrics and feminine floral prints. Ermanno Scervino, Via del Babuino 97, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3173, ermannoservino.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

LOCAL TIP

During summer Rome can reach 350, so why not cool down with an ice cream from Gelateria Valentino? Gelateria Valentino Via del Lavatore 96, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 3219 gelateriavalentino.it

globalblue.com

64 | R O M E G U I D E

EGGS If you’re in Italy for its cuisine and want to enjoy dishes that are a little different, Eggs is the place for you. Located in the Trastevere area of the capital, Eggs knows how to take a classic and give it a contemporary twist. The tasting menu includes parmigiano cream, carrot and orange purée and a deconstructed spritz cocktail – and it is served in six egg shells, showcasing the impressive culinary creativity of the chefs. Be sure to order

Eggs, Via Natale del Grande 52, 00184 Rome, +39 06 581 7281, facebook.com/eggsroma

the house speciality of spaghetti carbonara fried, crumbled and presented on a stick, all of which sounds odd but is simply delicious.

CAM

VIA DE

VIA

V ICO

L'I M P

DEL

EL AD

V IA

S S IO

RES

ALE ADD

LA M DEL

● SPADA

VIA DEL CORSO

LOUIS VUITTON ●

● PASQUALE BRUNI

● CARSHOE

● BOTTEGA VENETA

Featured In This Issue

CASADEI ●

POMELLATO ●

VIA DELLA M ER CE D

DELVAUX ●

VIA

P.34

OLIVER PEOPLES ●

CRUCIANI & BELLA ●

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

AUDEMARS

Café

VIT E

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina ● SAINT LAURENT

Non-Global Blue Retailer

VIA DEL CORSO VIA CA

R IO

ALE

AESOP ●

IC A

N IC

R Z ● PIGUET IO

I DE

● PA

MP O

F F IC

BONPOINT ●

LI U

VI A DE L L A

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●

VIA ME TAS TAS

Global Blue Retailer

D EG

VIA FRATTIN A

PHOTO: EGGS ROMA

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

CALZATURE CAMPOMARZIO ● ● BIARRITZ 1961 DAN JOHN ● ● MY OUTLET SUPERCASA ● ● CENTODIECI TEBRO ● ● ALAIN PAINE V I A D EI P R E FE T TI ● IL CAMICIAIO O’BAG ● VI A IN LU CIN A OT T BECCACECE ● ● PAIC A A L RLA GINTEL ● MEN EMPRESA ● TO ● FG ALB AMOUAGE ● ERT ELL I Piazza del MONOCLE ● Parlamento TIE SHOP ● MODARI ● ● PESERICO MALEDETTI TOSCANI ● ● GALLO MARINELLA ● ● CAMPOMARZIO70 VELASCA ● ● EMPRESA DAVIDE CENCI ● ● FRANCESCA P DAVIDE CENCI ● ● BORSALINO DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR ● ● OFFICINA SLOWEAR ● MOMONI' V IA

NON A

V IA D EL GAM BERO

VIA BOR GOG

● CAMPO MARZIO BANCHETTI ● ● VITTORIO BAGAGLI DAVID DAWAN ● ● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET NEGRI ● ● CAMPOMARZIO9 PAS DE ROUGE ● PAUL TAYLOR ● ● SCOTIA

L L A LU

NO AM L DIVI LO D E

AGIO

ALBERTO AMIDEI ● OTTICA CALO' ●

Antico Caffè Vitti

ORE

DI P

VI C O LO DI SAN BI

O●

LEO

R●

RS ●

IA NA

ALL

ACO

IOSSELLIA NI R-01-IOS ●

DEL

BOU

VI A BE LS

R DA

V IA

NK L

THE

FR A

BRO

BAR OKS

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA

TIN O BRO

VIA

CLEMEN

VIA DEL

INO

Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

S H O P | 65

VIA VITTORIO VENETO AREA Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia ZILLI ●

● CAPUANO

CAVIGLIA ●

● DE SIMONE

V IA

SA R

DEG

NA VI A

CI IN

ALBERTINA ●

ELIZABETH ●

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA ● DE PASCALIS

● GOLD SKIN EXCELSIOR GALLERY ● IA UBI ● IC IL ● CARRY ON JUNIOR V IA S GLOVES ● SARTORIA ROSSI ●

AD VI

E M IL

V IA

IT T

TA P

LAZ

CHE

V IA

MAR

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

HELENE PROFUMERIA ●

NIMA & RAY ●

ANDREW'S TIES ● RINALDI ●

GAETANO ALOISIO Rome has long been famous for its tailoring, and to enjoy this heritage head to Gaetano Aloisio’s boutique and atelier. The brand is a great exponent of artisan work and its pieces carry the Made in Italy label. At the shop you’ll find a tempting range of handmade luxury men’s suits and accessories, including silk ties and pocket squares that would make perfect souvenirs from Rome. At the atelier a few steps globalblue.com

V IA

BON

CO M

PA G

away, you can have a bespoke suit made; Gaetano Aloisio has longstanding experience in sharp Italian tailoring, and it offers impeccable service. Whatever you need, be this a threepiece suit for a wedding or a lightweight two-piece for a summer working wardrobe, there are plenty of options at Gaetano Aloisio. Gaetano Aloisio, Via Francesco Crispi 117, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4554 1935, gaetanoaloisio.com

66 | R O M E G U I D E

PANTHEON & NAVONA AREA Via del Governo Vecchio VI

N SA IE CH

A LL DE

A VI

U R IO DI

SA VE

CC VE

EA TR

INA R IO

● A CENCI ● CASALI ● GIOREN MENTA ● GLOVES ● KLK STEREO ● SOUND

PANTHEON

● FIORANGELO ● MI & CHI

VIA D EL SEM

● TULLI PROFUMERIA

ANGELO ● CONCEPT STORE

Piazza Della Rotonda

FA OR

CC H

V. D

E L L E VA

RC ● ME

O LO D SS

S T IN

PEPITA ● LE ARTIGIANE DI ROMA ● CARTOLERIA PANTHEON ●

A V. D . P

E OV

A FO

DEGLI ● EFFETTI

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BECCACECE Discover a quintessentially Italian jeweller in the heart of Rome. Specialising in diamonds and exquisite designs, the Beccacece boutique and workshop is set on beautiful Piazza del Parlamento. The label was founded in 1989 and while presenting its own striking range of necklaces, bracelets, rings and earrings for women it also offers pieces from other brands, including one of Italy’s largest fine jewellery makers, Buccellati. If you’re coming to Rome to mark an occasion, be this a birthday or an anniversary, celebrate it by acquiring a timeless piece of jewellery from the city. Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Beccacece, Piazza del Parlamento 35, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 3647, beccacecegioielli.it Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

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INTIMISSIMI UOMO ● COCCINELLE ● NUVOLARI ● FABIO DE MARCO ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● LIZA ● FAMAR ● TRIUMPH ● TOWER ● CHLO' ● MOSCOT ● WEEKEND MAX MARA ● L'ERBOLARIO ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● MAX MARA ●

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● PREMIERE ● 7 CAMICIE ● ESOTICA ● BRIAN CRESS ● PAUL TAYLOR ● OPTISSIMO ● ABITART ● PROFUMERIA BERTOZZINI ● CASTRONI

VI A TE R E NZIO ● PANDORA ● O'BAG STORE ● EREDI PISANÒ

VIA SIL LA GENTE ROMA ● FELLINI ● COLLAGE ● TIMBERLAND ● GUESS ● NARA CAMICIE ● CHLO ● SISLEY ● PETIT BATEAU ● MILUNA ● ORIGINAL MARINES ●

For real Roman grandeur, head to Pacifico restaurant in ultra-stylish Palazzo Dama hotel. The building was home to the aristocratic Malaspina family for more than 100 years, and it is bursting with character, elegance and history. It became one of Rome’s most stylish hotels in 2016. Here Pacifico restaurant presents a Peruvian-Asian menu. Chef Jaime Pesaque offers state-of-the-art ceviche, amazing raw fish salad and Wagyu carpaccio, among many other celebrated dishes. Palazzo Dama, Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia 2, 00196 Rome, +39 06 8956 5272, palazzodama.com Non-Global Blue Retailer

VIA OVIDIO

GOLDEN POINT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● TIM ● LUIS SPAGNOLI ● CHOPIN ● BENETTON ● DANY BABY ● STEFANEL ● VI A FA BIO MA SSIMO ZARA HOME ● DAVID SADDLER ● MICHAEL KORS ● SABON ● TWIN-SET ●

PACIFICO AT PALAZZO DAMA

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● YAMAMAY ● RAFI RUBEN OUTLET

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

VIA EZ IO DIEGO CATALDI ● MILLEOCCHIALI ● MANILA GRACE ● FALCONERI ● INTIMISSIMI ● ARMONY ● TIE SHOP ● BALLIN ● CENTODIECI ● WIND ● CARPISA ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

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PULL STOP ● FLYING TIGER COPENHAGEN ● OTTICA TAGLIAFERRI ● MONDADORI ● PENNY BOUTIQUE ● BALLERETTE ●

Coin Excelsior

TIFFANY & CO ● VI A PAO LO EMILIO

Department Store

● THUN ● SPADARELLA ● FURLA ● LOVABLE

● POLLINI ● MAMILLA V ● GENTE OUTLET I A P R OP ER ● NAU ! ZIO ● RAGGI ● LIU JO ● PAUL BIANCO ● BOGGI

● THE NORTH FACE ● FELLINI ● RAGGI ● DAN JOHN ● DICKINSON

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译

36: ETERNAL GLAMOUR 永恒魅力当今的意大利珠宝商从罗马悠久的珠宝制作历史中寻找效仿榜样，用完全现代的方式延续那种华美堂皇的奢雅精神，Lucinda Turner带您了解从《罗马假日》中格里高利·派克带着奥黛丽· 赫本在特莱维喷泉附近兜风，到费德里科·费里尼在电影里展现罗马城中难以名状的美好生活，意大利首都堪称一座照耀着世界各地的魅力灯塔。回溯历史，让我们把目光投向罗马帝国盛世，您会发现正是罗马的女性率先将珠宝以前所未见的方式来装扮自己，从而定义了新的时尚。古希腊人已经有了复杂的金属工艺，罗马人则在此基础上发展出了珠宝；罗马女性喜欢将色彩鲜丽的宝石镶嵌在昂贵的黄金里，这是人类早期文明史上最先通过宝石发出的鲜明醒目、色彩斑斓的审美宣言。如今，现代罗马人对魅力珠宝的热爱丝毫没有减少的迹象。从举世闻名的珠宝品牌，到规模较小的意大利工坊， “永恒之城 ”仍然是创意的温床，更是经年不变的奢华珠宝产地。尽管这座城市有着悠久的珠宝制造传统，但一个行业并不能只靠历史存活。各家品 globalblue.cn

牌 — — 无论是后起之秀还是知名大牌 — — 该如何应对变化莫测的珠宝市场，确保前来瞻仰罗马恢弘过往的游客在离开的时候也会带上一件珠宝，展望这座城市的光明未来？宝格丽（Bulgari）就是这样一家拥抱罗马过去、当下与未来的珠宝制造商。这家国际知名的奢侈品牌于1884年在罗马诞生，时至今日其总部仍然留在这里。该品牌甚至还将标志中的 U换成了 V，以致敬古老的罗马字母表。一直以来，罗马的艺术、建筑和这座城市的精髓对宝格丽有着至关重要的意义，是品牌旗下许多知名系列的灵感源泉；例如，Diva’s Dream系列就深受古罗马马赛克的启发，而 B01戒指的创意则来自罗马斗兽场。 “宝格丽就是罗马。我们生在这里，它是我们创作高级珠宝和腕表的第一灵感源泉。”该品牌的欧洲区总经理 Vincenzo Pujia说道， “ 我们的设计和创意团队都扎根在罗马。每天去办公室的路上，他们都要穿梭在这座城市最令人赞叹的建筑物、设计品、色彩、光线和声音之中。”宝格丽与意大利首都之间有着深厚的渊源，所以2014年该品牌在庆祝130周年之际，还出资150万欧元用于修复有着标志性意义的西班牙阶梯。许多人认为，宝格丽的全盛时期是风光无限的50年代和 60年代，当年伊丽莎白·泰勒和英格丽·褒曼等众多明星都曾戴着该品牌流光溢彩的珠宝作品在罗马城中绽放星光；然而，这家品牌丝毫没有囿于过往。从 50年代末率先

使用弧面切割（cabochon- cut）宝石的创举，到被 Pujia称为“金字塔尖”的现代高级珠宝系列，宝格丽的创新精神让它在行业中独领风骚。宝格丽的系列作品采用最前沿的技术，选取光彩照人的宝石，以此吸引思想前卫的千禧一代掏出腰包。事实上，宝格丽深深为满足顾客的严苛要求而感到自豪。“如今顾客向我们要求的就是，作品不仅要娟秀雅致，还要在正式的和非正式的场合都能轻松佩戴。”Pujia说道。为如此品位独到的顾客群体设计珠宝，宝格丽的一大秘诀就在于它的意大利根源。“得益于我们极具意大利特色的审美理念，我们的设计作品是经典不朽的。我们尊重历史，充分利用过往的成就，我们的新系列体现了真正的罗马品牌精髓和生活的乐趣。”Pujia解释道。 Pasquale Bruni是另一家懂得现代珠宝顾客需求的意大利品牌，2018年该品牌在罗马开设了一家全新概念商店。“女性比从前更自信了，她们知道自己想要的是什么，也会为自己买东西。”创意总监 Eugenia Bruni说道， “ 女性深知她们能够改变世界，所以我一直在创作能够突出一个女人的个性的珠宝— — 一种能激发自我探索的护身符。”2001年，Eugenia Bruni接管了父亲 Pasquale Bruni同名品牌的创意部门，用现代特色和对女性的高度关注为该品牌更添优势。大自然和女性佩戴珠宝的现代方式让 Eugenia Bruni深受启发，她设计的作品可以完美衬托出穿戴者的气质，而品牌也仍然坚持以经典意大利手工技艺为核心。“现在公司里有许多工匠当初曾在我父亲手下工作，我还是个小女孩的时候就常常观察他们并沉醉其中。”她说道， “ 对我们的工作而言，和工匠保持日常接触是至关重要的。在创作一件珠宝的过程中，可能会有许多事情发生，你必须不断向工匠学习，精益求精。” 作为这座城市里技艺最精湛的珠宝匠之一，Percossi Papi正致力于让罗马的经典魅力成为日常生活的一部分。自1968年起，Percossi Papi就在他那位于万神殿附近的小工作室里打造充满活力、色彩斑斓的作品。“ 在那些年里，人们都有着打破常规的强烈愿望。顾客纷纷要求打造独一无二的作品，要注重细节，而且能凸显个性。”谈起早年间的顾客，Papi如是说道。如今，在妻子和两个儿子的帮助下，他的同名品牌已经闻名世界，因为精致华丽、色彩细腻的耳环而备受赞誉。该品牌也深受国际时尚界重要人物的喜爱，还为多部重要影片打造了珠宝作品，包括《伊丽莎白2：黄金时代》和 2017版《东方快车谋杀案》。

Percossi Papi深受巴洛克风格和文艺复兴杰作的启发，其作品显然取灵感于这座品牌发源之城。“我生活在罗马城中心，这是教皇亚历山大七世、贝尼尼（Bernini，雕塑家）和博罗米尼（Borromini，建筑师）的罗马，所以很显然我会不由自主地在作品中加入某些相关元素。” 从深居庭院的贵族妇女对彩色护身符梦寐以求的古代发展到如今，罗马的珠宝业已经走过了漫长的历程；不仅有着不朽的魅力，成为了现代电影的一部分，更能为品位卓越的顾客将新与旧完美交融。“我们意大利人都接受过美学教育，这是由来已久的。”Papi说道。“意大利拥有了不起的艺术传统，以及许多世界闻名的艺术杰作。”事实上，突破界限、尊重美、用创新的方式打扮女性的精神仍在延续。“罗马是一个神奇的地方，在这里人们可以激发灵感，创造出不可思议的系列作品。”Pujia如是说道，我们也完全同意。

44: BACK TO THE FUTURE 回到未来世界各大传统品牌在展望未来的同时，充分借鉴自家的历史根源。一些意大利顶级品牌就在本季重新诠释经典作品，Fani Mari报道对于如今的各大品牌而言，讲述与众不同的自家故事比以往任何时候都更重要。在当下这个不断发展的数字化社会中，如果想要保持鲜明的个性，还有什么比借鉴独一无二的历史更好的方式呢？又有什么比经典作品更适合深入挖掘呢？世界各地的主流时尚品牌都在以古鉴今，回溯它们的根源，寻找能与品位卓绝的顾客产生共鸣的真谛。时尚是周期性的。潮流来来去去，但经典的魅力却长存不朽 — —以至于许多世界知名品牌都设立了自己的博物馆，展示它们以往的辉煌。这其中就包括佛罗伦萨的古驰博物馆（Museo Gucci），在巴黎和摩洛哥马拉喀什都设有馆藏的伊夫·圣罗兰博物馆（Musée Yves Saint Laurent）以及法国格兰维尔的克里斯汀·迪奥（Christian Dior）博物馆。许多世界顶级博物馆也为主流时尚品牌专门举办了大型回顾展。最有名的例子包括2011 年纽约大都会艺术博物馆（Metropolitan Museum of Art）及 2015年维多利亚及阿尔伯特博物馆（Victoria and Albert Museum，简称 V& A博物馆）举办的Alexander McQueen《野性

之美》（Savage Beauty）纪念展；2018年伦敦设计博物馆（Design Museum）举办的Azzedine Alaïa作品展（由设计师本人于2017年逝世前共同策划）；以及将在 V& A博物馆开放至 2019年7 月中旬的《克里斯汀·迪奥：梦之设计师》（Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams）回顾展。此外，许多设计师都对经典作品有着强烈的兴趣；Louis Vuitton前男装艺术总监 Kim Jones的私人收藏堪称包罗万象，其中还包括不少 Vivienne Westwood的设计真品。近年来令人称道的设计案例包括Peter Saville为Burberry重新打造的标志、Celine的标志以及 Dior的经典马鞍包（saddle bag）。意大利的顶级设计品牌也纷纷开始挖掘自己的历史根源。新季来临，推荐关注初创于上世纪60年代的Sergio Rossi和其复古作品。SR1系列完成了一个与经典传统紧密相关的长远计划：2016 年，该品牌重整旗鼓；2017年，世界各地的品牌精品店陆续翻新；2018年，罗马旗舰店重新开业。数字1意味着新的开始，而SR原有的品牌个性也得以保留— — 品牌的重建既尊重与弘扬了 SR的传统，也继续发掘着它的特色。 SR1系列的尖头高跟鞋是向90年代致敬的设计，令人联想起那个时代传奇超模的无畏风采。金属细节同样是着眼于未来而对旧款式进行的摩登化改造。多年以来，该品牌一直注重秀美气质，这一点在系列新作中也有所体现；自90年代以来一直深受 Sergio Rossi喜爱的纳帕皮革也与这一背景紧密相连。 Fendi在90年代的招牌包款— — 法棍包 Baguette bag）于2019年春夏季强势回归，多种全新配色与印花和新增的肩带让它比从前更具

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创新特色，也更贴近潮流。于1997年首发、受到狂热追捧的法棍包当初由Silvia Venturini Fendi 设计，定位是日常包款，配有一根短带，可以贴身携带；其狭长的外形让人联想起法式面包，它的名字就是由此而来，而且它也可以像法棍一样夹在腋下。 2019年春夏季的复刻版法棍包则有所不同— —尺寸硕大、镶有亮片、修饰精美、包身浮雕双 F标志，俨然是向未来发出的强有力宣言。自1925年创立以来，Fendi一直是罗马风格的代名词；其著名的 Palazzo Fendi意大利文化馆于 2016年经过翻修，迎来了第一家 Fendi酒店，内设 7间为特殊贵宾准备的7间套房；鼎鼎有名的 Zuma日料店也在馆内设有奢华分店。创立于瑞士的Bally也重新推出了一款1991 年诞生的男士运动鞋。Kuba鞋的重新设计反映了运动休闲和街头风格的热门程度，也将该品牌一举带到了潮流前沿，尽管它的初衷是回顾经典。Bally每一个季度都在借鉴品牌历史，但 Kuba运动鞋是首个得到复刻的原创鞋款。这双网球鞋致敬了该品牌的瑞士传统，更有网球冠军雅各布·赫拉塞克（ Jakob Hlasek）穿过的同款配色可供挑选；Kuba是赫拉塞克的外号，当年那双运动鞋的设计灵感正是来自于他。该系列在佛罗伦萨的 Pitti Uomo男装展上华丽亮相，摩登的鞋款展现出与品牌历史极其深远的关系。于1851年创立同名公司的Carl Franz Bally始终致力于设计摩登而实用的作品，这一点也一直是该品牌的核心理念；如今，Bally还新推出了复古风格的成衣和配饰作品。很少有品牌像 Etro对佩斯利涡旋花纹那样，将一种经典印花和品牌的特性与DNA如此紧密地结合在一起。2018年是 Etro创立 50周年，该品牌这一强大的独特细节始终贯穿于其作品之中。经典的波西米亚风佩斯利图案于1981年首次亮相，从服装到皮具再到家居用品，它装饰了各种各样的物件。 Etro有一座巨大的图书馆，馆内收藏着成百上千种来自18世纪和19世纪的印花与织物，为该品牌提供了取之不尽的创意源泉。Etro的每一个系列都用到了经典的佩斯利花纹，其小水滴状的设计据说起源于古亚洲的美索不达米亚地区。Etro不断改进这一图案，但始终与其根源保持着紧密联系。Gerolamo Etro从自己的旅行经历和对历史的热爱之中汲取灵感，于1968年创立此品牌；至今Etro仍是家族企业，而且其系列作品都有着鲜明的个性主题。和 Etro类似，以新颖鞋履设计为根基的 Salvatore Ferragamo也拥有数不胜数的经典作品。该品牌坐拥 350多项专利，档案库内有2万多

种款式，最早可以追溯至 20年代的革命性鞋款。材质与实用性是该品牌多年来一以贯之的关注焦点，这一点在1995年开设的佛罗伦萨Salvatore Ferragamo博物馆中展现得淋漓尽致。这个季度，创意总监 Paul Andrew的灵感来自 1940年该品牌为女演员 Loretta Young打造的一双鞋。那是一双编织凉鞋，有着如雕塑般的木质鞋跟。Andrew将它改造成了松糕鞋的式样，并加以皮革编织细节，完成了初版凉鞋的摩登复刻。该品牌的成衣系列也从一张 Young站立在棕榈树前的照片中汲取了灵感，在 2019年春夏季新品的印花与廓形中就可见一斑。所有这些品牌都不只是在复刻它们以往的辉煌。它们在为21世纪重新打造昔日旧作，将从前的卓绝设想和今天的巧妙创新结合在一起，让深受喜爱的经典作品以全新面貌再次进入现代顾客的视野。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 36: ETERNAL GLAMOUR ВЕЧНОЕ СИЯНИЕ РОСКОШИ Современные римские ювелиры унаследовали богатые традиции итальянского ювелирного дела. Люсинда Тернер рассказывает, как им удается сохранять дух исторической роскоши и одновременно работать в современной эстетике Для всего мира Рим стал путеводной звездой по красивой жизни. Невозможно забыть сцену из фильма «Римские каникулы», в которой Грегори Пек и Одри Хепберн кружат вокруг фонтана Треви, и «Сладкую жизни» Федерико Феллини, в которой он так тонко и точно передал неописуемую dolce vita вечного города. Если обратиться к более ранним временам, то еще на заре Римской империи именно римлянки по-новому украшали себя драгоценностями и диктовали моду остальному миру. Они постепенно отказались от греческой ювелирной манеры, для которой характерна искусная обработка металлов, в пользу сверкающих драгоценных камней, оправленных желтым золотом. Именно тогда, впервые в истории люди начали воплощать смелые творческие идеи в ювелирных украшениях. Италия сумела пронести эту красоту через века. По сей день итальянская столица остается мировым центром ювелирного искусства, где лучшие традиции продолжают как крупные бренды с историей, так и небольшие ателье. Какой бы богатой ни была ювелирная традиция вечного города, целая индустрия не может выживать только за

счет истории. И молодые, и авторитетные компании вынуждены считаться с постоянно меняющимся рынком. Они научились создавать подчеркнуто современные вещи для покупателей, которые приезжают в Рим в поисках грандиозного прошлого. Ювелирный дом Bulgari охватывает прошлое, настоящее и будущее Рима. Он был основан в Риме в 1884 году, и его штаб-квартира остается здесь до сих пор. В знак глубокого почтения к традиции компания даже заменила букву U на V в логотипе, как в древнеримском алфавите. Лучшие коллекции Bulgari вдохновлены искусством, архитектурой и витальным духом Рима. Например, серия Diva’s Dream навеяна древнеримской мозаикой, а кольцо B01создано по мотивам Колизея. «Bulgari – это Рим. Мы родились здесь и не перестаем черпать вдохновение для украшений и часов, – делится Винченцо Пуджиа, европейский управляющий директор бренда. – Наши дизайнерская и креативная команды работают в Риме. Каждый день по дороге в офис они созерцают архитектуру и дизайн, цвета и оттенки, огни и голоса». Bulgari настолько привязан к итальянской столице, что в 2014 году, к своему 130-летию, пожертвовал 1,5 миллиона евро на восстановление знаменитой Испанской лестницы. Порой говорят, что расцвет этого ювелирного дома пришелся на 195060-е: именно тогда Элизабет Тейлор, Ингрид Бергман и другие звезды носили в Риме великолепные украшения Bulgari. Однако бренд не намерен застревать в собственном прошлом, тем более что именно инновации служат залогом его успеха. В конце 1950-х он первым использовал огранку кабошон для своих камней, а теперь выпускает современные коллекции высокого ювелирного искусства, которые Пуджиа называет «истинной вершиной пирамиды». Коллекции Bulgari используют передовые технологии и эффектные камни, которые привлекают внимание миллениалов – globalblue.ru

тех, кто интуитивно предпочитает все ультрасовременное. Bulgari заслуженно гордится тем, что способен удовлетворить самые строгие требования покупателей. Пуджиа считает, что ключом к сердцу столь взыскательной аудитории могут быть итальянские корни Bulgari: «Наши клиенты предпочитают исключительно женственные вещи, которые одинаково легко носить по официальным и неофициальным поводам. Благодаря выраженной итальянской эстетике наши коллекции не подвластны веяниям времени. Мы уважаем наше прошлое и берем максимум от нашей успешной истории. И новые коллекции воплощают истинно римский дух бренда и наслаждение жизнью». Итальянский бренд Pasquale Bruni, открывший новый концепт-стор в Риме в 2018 году, также понимает нужды современных покупательниц: «Женщины более, чем когда-либо, уверены в своих потребностях. Они знают, чего они хотят и что покупают для себя, – говорит креативный директор бренда Эуджения Бруни. – Женщины знают, что могут изменить мир. Я создаю такие украшения, которые способны подчеркнуть индивидуальность женщины, своего рода талисманы, вдохновляющие на открытие себя». Эуджения Бруни переняла творческий бизнес своего отца Паскуале Бруни в 2001 году и придала коллекциям Pasquale Bruni современный и очень женственный вид. Ее вдохновляет та естественность, с которой современные женщины носят украшения. Поэтому она стремится, чтобы ее произведения органично дополняли образ обладательницы. При этом традиционное итальянское мастерство по-прежнему остается в самом сердце бренда: «С нами работают ювелиры, которые начинали еще при моем отце. Я восторженно наблюдала за ними, когда была маленькой девочкой. В нашем деле огромное значение имеет повседневный контакт с мастерами. Создание украшения – это многослойный процесс, поэтому у них

можно бесконечно учиться, совершенствуя искусство». Ювелир Перкосси Папи создает яркие украшения под брендом Percossi Papi с 1968 года. Он работает в маленьком ателье рядом с Пантеоном и, очевидно, стремится превратить римскую классику в часть повседневной жизни. «В 1960-е в обществе было сильно желание выходить за рамки привычного. Клиенты требовали уникальных вещей, которые были бы сделаны со всем вниманием к деталям и подчеркивали бы их индивидуальность», – вспоминает своих первых покупателей Перкосси Папи. Теперь же Папи помогают супруга и двое сыновей, и их ателье получило мировую известность. Особую славу Percossi Papi принесли элегантные серьги изысканных оттенков. Кроме того, он пользуется популярностью среди ключевых фигур модной индустрии и создает украшения для кинематографа, в частности – для фильмов «Убийство в Восточном экспрессе» (версия 2017 года) и «Золотой век». На стиль Percossi Papi определенно повлияли эпохи барокко и Ренессанс. Но наибольшее влияние, пожалуй, оказал сам город: «Я живу в центре Рима – Рима éлександра VII, Бернини, Борромини. И конечно, ключевые черты той эпохи не могли не проявиться в моих работах», – размышляет он. Ювелирная сфера в Риме остается неизменно роскошной, она примиряет старое и новое в угоду самым взыскательным ценителям. И она проделала большой путь к самоопределению: «Мы, итальянцы, исторически разбираемся в красоте, – отмечает Папи. – Невероятное художественное наследие Италии и наши великие произведения искусства знамениты на весь мир». Действительно, в Риме царит дух новых открытий, и ювелиры находят все новые и новые способы выразить свое восхищение красотой: «Рим – это волшебное место, где люди вдохновляются и создают просто изумительные произведения», – говорит Пуджиа. И с ним невозможно не согласиться.

44: BACK TO THE FUTURE НАЗАД В БУДУЩЕЕ РОСКОШИ Крупные бренды с историей опираются на свои корни, когда размышляют о будущем. Фани Мари рассказывает, как и почему ведущие итальянские марки пересматривают архивы в этом сезоне Никогда прежде собственная неповторимая история не была так важна для брендов. В нашем стремительном цифровом обществе только опора на наследие гарантирует сохранение индивидуальности. И где же его искать, как не в архивах? Во всем мире модные дома смотрят назад, чтобы идти вперед. Таким образом, они обращаются к своим корням в поисках подлинности и уникальности, которые бы отозвались в сердцах самых взыскательных покупателей. Мода циклична, тренды приходят и уходят, но классика неизменно остается востребованной. Некоторые бренды даже основали собственные музеи, чтобы сохранить навсегда память о достижениях прошлого. В их числе Museo Gucci во Флоренции, Musée Yves Saint Laurent в Париже и Марракеше и Музей Christian Dior во французском городе Гранвиле. Крупные музеи во всем мире проводят ретроспективы, посвященные модным брендам. Выставка Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty состоялась в 2011 году в Метрополитен-музее в Нью-Йорке и в 2015 в Музее Виктории и éльберта в Лондоне. Со-куратором экспозиции Azzedine Alaïa в лондонском Музее дизайна в 2018 году был лично дизайнер éзеддин éлайя вплоть до своей кончины в 2017. é выставка Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams проходит в Музее Виктории и éльберта до середины июля 2019 года.

Сверху: стенд в бутике Palazzo Fendi

У некоторых дизайнеров есть и личный интерес к архивам. Ким Джонс, бывший художественный директор Louis Vuitton по мужской одежде, собирает одну из самых полных частных коллекций, в которой есть даже оригинальные вещи от Vivienne Westwood. Интерес к работе с прошлым демонстрируют и такие события, как обновление логотипа Burberry, выполненное Питером Сэвиллом, и логотипа Celine, который теперь отсылает к оригинальной эмблеме 1960-х, а также переосмысление классической сумки-седла Dior. Итальянские дизайнерские бренды также опираются на свои корни. В этом сезоне влияние ретро проявилось у марки Sergio Rossi, основанной в 1960-е: ее коллекция SR1 венчает длительный проект, связанный с наследием. В 2016 году начался перезапуск бренда, в 2017 были перестроены бутики по всему миру, и в 2018 году вновь открылся магазин в Риме. Цифра 1 в названии коллекции обозначает новое начало, а сохранение оригинального названия SR свидетельствует, что обновленный Sergio Rossi с уважением относится к собственному наследию, одновременно двигаясь вперед. Лодочки с заостренным носом в этой коллекции напоминают о стиле 1990-х и смелости легендарных супермоделей того десятилетия. Металлическая отделка также рассказывает об открытиях прошлого, обновленных во имя будущего. В новых коллекциях проявилось и многолетнее внимание Sergio Rossi к женственности, и использование кожи наппа – одного из фаворитов бренда со времен 1990-х. Модный дом Fendi вернул в коллекцию весна-лето 2019 сумку Baguette – одно из главных открытий 1990-х. В 1997 году Сильвия Вентурини Фенди представила повседневную сумочку с короткой ручкой, которую нужно носить близко к телу. Из-за узкой и вытянутой формы эта модель напоминала французский багет, да и globalblue.ru

носить ее предлагалось так же, как багет, – так и появилось название. Чтобы сделать ее актуальной в 2019 году, бренд добавил новые оттенки и принты, а также дополнительный плечевой ремешок. В новую коллекцию вошло несколько вариаций классической сумки: укрупненный размер с блестками, с вышивкой и с тиснением двойной буквы F – каждая интерпретация объединяет в себе прошлое и будущее. И это очень по-римски: Fendi хранит верность римскому стилю со дня основания в 1925 году. Бутик бренда Palazzo Fendi в 2016 году был перестроен в первый в мире Fendi Hotel с семью номерами-сьютами и японским рестораном Zuma. Основанный в Швейцарии бренд Bally представил обновленную версию мужских кроссовок Kuba 1991 года. Теперь они вписываются в идею athleisure, в которой занятия спортом сливаются с досугом и отдыхом. Этот подход придает бренду актуальности, даже несмотря на обращение к архивам. Каждый сезон Bally рассказывает чтонибудь из своей истории, но именно теннисные туфли Kuba стали первой полной переработкой оригинальной модели, прославляющей швейцарское наследие бренда. Они доступны в тех цветах, которые использовал швейцарский чемпион по теннису Якоб Хласек по прозвищу Куба, некогда вдохновивший Bally на создание кроссовок. Кроссовки Kuba были представлены на выставке Pitti Uomo во Флоренции. При всей современности и актуальности, они полностью вписываются в традиционные ценности бренда. Карл Франц Балли, основавший компанию в 1851 году, хотел разрабатывать современные функциональные вещи, и этот подход остается основным. Только теперь обувь дополняют коллекции готовой одежды и аксессуаров в стиле ретро. Немногие бренды способны так органично вплести классический принт

в свой образ, как Etro. В 2018 году бренд отметил 50-летие: его основал в 1968 году Джероламо Этро – знаток истории и страстный любитель путешествий. С тех пор компания остается семейным делом, и роль личности всегда занимает особое место в коллекциях. Приверженность традициям и стала секретом долголетия бренда. Узор пейсли впервые появился в его коллекциях в 1981 году и с тех пор украшает все от одежды до кожгалантереи и домашней утвари. Etro собрал большую библиотеку с сотнями принтов и тканей 18 и 19 веков, к которой постоянно обращается в поисках вдохновения. Но неизменно одно: каждая новая коллекция так или иначе обыгрывает пейсли – классический каплеобразный узор родом из Месопотамии. Таким образом, Etro сумел уравновесить традицию и постоянное обновление. Как и Etro, Salvatore Ferragamo ведет собственный архив. Передовой подход к обуви помог бренду выстроить прочную репутацию, и теперь у компании более 350 патентов и 20 000 моделей, накопленных начиная с революционных разработок в 1920-е годы. Неизменным остается внимание к качеству материалов и функциональности, и это можно проследить по экспозиции Музея Salvatore Ferragamo, который открылся во Флоренции в 1995 году. В этом сезоне креативный директор бренда Пол Эндрю вдохновлялся туфлями 1940 года, созданными для актрисы Лоретты Янг. Он посмотрел на плетеные сандалии с деревянным каблуком под современным углом и превратил их в туфли на платформе с кожаной отделкой. Янг стала ориентиром и для линии готовой одежды: в принтах и силуэтах коллекции весна-лето 2019 неуловимо угадывается ее образ с известной фотографии на фоне пальмы. Все эти бренды не просто пытаются повторить былой успех. Они соединяют гениальные открытия прошлого с globalblue.ru | globalblue.com

вызовами настоящего, чтобы найти свое место и раскрыть новые возможности в 21 веке. Тем самым, они умело адаптируют проверенную временем и любимую классику для современных покупателей.

68: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине

Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде

Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты:

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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36: ETERNAL GLAMOUR 永遠の魅力

イタリアのジュエリーメーカーは、ローマの宝飾工芸の豊かな歴史を手掛かりに、豪華絢爛の精神を全く現代的な形で持ち続けている。ルシンダ・ターナーが取材した。グレゴリー・ペックはあるローマの休日にオードリー・ヘップバーンをスクーターに乗せてトレビの泉界隈をめぐり、フェデリコ・フェリーニはこの都市の得も言われぬ甘い生活を映画にとらえた。イタリアの首都ローマの魅力は世界中に知られている。時代をさらにローマ帝国全盛期まで遡れば、ローマの女性たちが従来なかったような斬新な方法で宝飾品を身に着け、新しいファッションを生み出したことがわかる。ローマの女性は、古代ギリシアで親しまれた込み入った金属細工より、豪華な黄金に鮮やかな色の宝石をはめ込んだジュエリーを好んだ。宝石で大胆かつカラフルに美意識を主張した世界初の文明の一つが、ローマ帝国だったのだ。近代ローマにも、グラマラスなジュエリーを追求し続ける精神は脈々と受け継がれている。世界的に有名なジュエリーハウスから小規模なアトリエまで、永遠の都ローマは現在もクリエイティビティの宝庫であり、豪華絢爛な宝飾品が次々と生み出されている。このように長い宝飾工芸の伝統を持つローマだが、歴史だけに頼っていては業界の生き残りは望めない。新興店も老舗も、移り変わりの激しい宝飾品市場でどう動き、ローマの荘厳な歴史を堪能した観光客に明るい未来のジュエリーを持ち帰ってもらうようにしているのだろうか。この都市の過去、現在、未来を愛し、ジュエリーづくりにその愛を吹き込んでいるブランドの一つがブルガリだ。この国際的な高級品レーベルは1884年にローマで創業し、今も本部をここに置いている。ブランドロゴも、古代ローマのアルファベットを使ってUをVと綴る。同ブランドにとってローマの芸術と建築、ローマらしさは創立当初からとても重要で、古代ローマのモザイクをヒントにした「ディーヴァ・ドリーム」やコロッセオをモデルにした「B01（ビー・ゼロワン）」リングなど、有名コレクションの制作ではミューズの役割を果たした。「ブルガリはローマそのもの。この地で生まれたブルガリは、ハイジュエリーでも時計でも一番のインスピレーションの源はこの都市なのです」と、欧州マネジングディレクターのヴィンチェンツォ・プイヤはいう。「当社ではデザインチームもクリエイティブチームもローマを本拠にしており、毎日ローマの素晴らしい建築やデザイン、色、光を見、声を聴きながら通勤しています。」そんなブルガリとロ

ーマのつながりは深く、2014年には創業130年の祝賀として、ローマを代表する名所スペイン階段の修復に150万ユーロを寄付した。ブルガリの全盛期はエリザベス・テイラーやイングリッド・バーグマンなどのスターが素晴らしくカラフルなブルガリのデザインを身に着けてローマを闊歩した1950 年代から1960年代にかけてだと思っている人もいるが、このレーベルは決して過去にとらわれているわけではない。ブルガリはイノベーションが身上だ。そのことは、1950年代の終わりにカボションカットを初めて使ったことにも、プイヤが「ピラミッドの頂点」だという現代のハイジュエリーコレクションにも表れている。同ブランドの商品は極めて現代的なテクニックと見事な石を組み合わせ、モダンな考えのミレニアル世代を引き付けている。実際、ブルガリは顧客の厳しい要求に応えるのを誇りにしているのだ。「近頃のお客様は、とても女らしくて、かつフォーマルな場面でもインフォーマルな場面でも手軽に身に着けられるものをお望みです」とプイヤ。そんな目の肥えた顧客のためにデザインする際にブルガリが大事にしているのは、イタリア生まれというルーツだ。「いかにもイタリア的な美的感覚のおかげで、当社のコレクションは時代を超越したものになっています。過去を尊重し、社史に残るヒット作を活用しつつ作られる新しいコレクションは、真のローマブランドの精神と人生の喜びを表現しています。」 2018年にローマにコンセプトストアを新設したパスクワーレ・ブルーニも、ジュエリーを求める現代人のニーズを理解するイタリアンブランドだ。「女性が自信をつけてきて、欲しいものを知り、自分で買うようになっています」というのは、クリエイティブディレクターのユージニア・ブルーニだ。「女性は世界を変えていけると自覚しています。だから私はいつも、女性の個性を際立たせるようなジュエリー、自己発見を応援するお守りのようなジュエリーを作っているのです。」父パスクワーレ・ブルーニの名を冠した商品ラインの制作をユージニアが引き継いだのは2001年で、それにより現代的で女性ならではの魅力が加わった。ユージニア・ブルーニは自然と現代女性のジュエリーの使い方をインスピレーションにしている。身に着ける人にピッタリと合い互いを引き立たせるような作品をデザインし、イタリア伝統の技で作り上げることが、現在もこのブランドの真髄なのだ。「父の下で仕事を始めた金細工職人が今も働いています。私は子供の頃、彼らの技を見てうっとりしていました。職人と日々接することは、私たちの仕事で一番大切なこと。ジュエリーづくりではいろいろなことが起こりますから、職人から日々学び、卓越を極めていくのです。」ローマでも緻密な作品で知られるジュエラーの一つ、ペルコッシ・パピは、古代ローマのグラマラスな魅力を日常生活にもたらすことを使命にしている。ペルコッシ

はパンテオン神殿近くの小さなアトリエで、自分の名を冠したブランドの鮮やかでカラフルな作品を1968年から作っている。「当時、従来のジュエリーとは違ったものが強く求められていました。お客様は細部までこだわり個性を強調するようなユニークなジュエリーを要望されたのです」と初期の顧客について語るパピ。妻と二人の息子の助けを得て、彼のブランドは今や世界的に知られ、素晴らしい色合いの華麗なイアリングで名をはせる。国際ファッション界の重鎮の間でも人気で、「エリザベス：ゴールデン・エイジ」や「オリエント急行殺人事件（2017年リメイク版）」といったメジャーな映画にもジュエリーを提供している。バロック期やルネサンス期のデザインをヒントにしたペルコッシ・パピの作品が、彼の地元ローマからインスピレーションを得ているのは間違いない。「私の住まいはローマ市街の中心、ローマ教皇アレクサンデル7世や建築家ベルニーニ、ボッロミーニが築いたローマにありますので、当然ながら特定のラインが自然と私のデザインに現れるのです」とパピはいう。どれもグラマラスな魅力に満ち、現代映画づくりに欠かせず、古きと新しきを融合させたジュエリーを目が肥えた今世の顧客に提供するローマのジュエラーたち。この業界は、古代宮廷の貴婦人がみな欲しがった色石のアミュレット（魔除けのお守り）を原点に長い歴史を歩んできた。「私たちイタリア人は歴史を通じて美術教育を受けるのです。イタリアには素晴らしい美術遺産があり、世界的に有名な芸術作品が残っています。」美を愛しみ、斬新な装飾品で女性をより魅力的にする限界破りの精神は、今も息づく。プイヤいわく、「ローマは人々が互いに刺激しあって素晴らしいコレクションが生まれる魔法の空間」。まったくその通りだ。

44: BACK TO THE FUTURE 故きを温ねて新しきを知る

世界の有名老舗レーベルがルーツをたどることを通して未来を創作している。イタリアのトップブランドも今シーズン、過去の資料をもとに新たな解釈で作った作品を世に送り出している。ファニ・マリがレポートする。各ブランドにとって、独自のストーリーを語ることが今までにも増して大事になっている。発展し続けるデジタル社会で個性を保つには、それぞれのユニークな歴史をひも解くのが一番。そんな歴史が詰まっているのが過去のデザイン資料だ。世界中の大手ファッションハウスが、前進するために過去を振り返っている。目利きの得意客にアピールする正統性を見つけるために、ルーツへと遡っているのだ。 globalblue.com

ファッションは循環性で流行ったり廃れたりするが、一流品は独自の魅力を保ち続ける。世界的に有名なブランドのいくつかが自前の美術館を創設して過去の名作を展示しているほどだ。例えば、フィレンツェのグッチ美術館、パリとマラケシュにあるイヴ・サンローラン美術館、フランスのグランヴィルにあるクリスチャン・ディオール美術館など。世界一級の美術館でも、有名ファッションブランドの回顧展が大々的に開催されてきた。2011年にニューヨークのメトロポリタン美術館、2015年にロンドンのヴィクトリア＆アルバート博物館（V&A）で開催された「アレキサンダー・マックイーン：サヴェッジ・ビューティ」展や、生前のデザイナー自身が共同企画し2017年にロンドンのデザイン博物館で開かれた「アズディン・アライラ」展、2019年の 7月中旬までV&Aで開催されている「クリスチャン・ディオール：デザイナー・オブ・オリームズ」展などがよく知られた例だ。デザイナーの中には昔のデザインの魅力に個人的に入れ込んでいる人もいる。かつてルイ・ヴィトンでメンズウェアのアーティスティック・ディレクターを務めたキム・ジョーンズは、ヴィヴィアン・ウェストウッドのオリジナル作品をはじめとする実に幅広い個人コレクションを展示している。最近の刷新例には、ピーター・サヴィルが手掛けたバーバリーのロゴや、セリーヌのロゴ、ディオールのサドルバッグなどがある。イタリアのトップブランドもルーツをたどっている。今シーズンは1960年代創設のセルジオ・ロッシが長い回顧プロジェクトの締めくくりとして出した「SR1コレクション」のレトロ風デザインに注目したい。2016年に再スタートを切ったセルジオ・ロッシは、2017年に世界中のブティックを改装し、2018年にローマ店を再オープンした。SR1の1は新たな始まりを意味している。セルジオ・ロッシ（SR）のアイデンティティを維持しつつ、新しいページを開く意図で行われたリブランディングは、歴史を尊重してアピールしつつ、さらなるアイデンティティ構築を目指している。「SR1コレクション」のパンプスは、その尖った爪先が1990年代の伝説的スーパーモデルの大胆さを思わせる。メタリックなディテールも過去のスタイルを未来へ向けて現代風にしたものだ。同ブランドが長年大切にしてきた女性らしさは新コレクションでも表現され、セルジオ・ロッシが90年代から好んで使ってきたナッパレザーもブランドの歴史を反映している。 1990年代の代表的スタイルだったフェンディのバゲットバッグが、2019年春夏に鮮烈なカムバックを遂げている。新しい色やプリント、新たに付けられたショルダーストラップが画期的でいかにも今風だ。1997年に発売されカルト的人気を博したバゲットは、シルヴィア・ヴェンチュリーニ・フェンディが普段使いのバッグとしてデザインした。ストラップが短く体にぴたっと付ける感じで持つ。細長い形がフランスパンを思わせるところからその名がついたの

だが、持ち方もフランスパンのように小脇に抱える形だ。 2019年春夏の刷新はバラエティ豊かで、特大サイズのものやシークインが施されたもの、飾りがついたもの、ダブルFを型押ししたものなど、未来に向けた力強いステートメントになっている。フェンディといえば、1925年の創立以来ローマスタイルの代名詞だった。名高い「パラッツォ・フェンディ」ブティックは2016年に改装され、特別なゲストのために7つのスイートルームを用意した初のフェンディホテルを併設。有名な高級日本食レストラン「ズマ（ZUMA）」も入っている。一方、スイス発祥のバリーでは1991年に初登場したメンズスニーカーを新たに出してきた。「クバ（Kuba）」をデザインし直したのは、アスレジャーやストリートウェアスタイルの人気を反映してのこと。昔のデザインを参考にしつつ、ぐっと現代的なイメージに刷新してみせた。バリーでは毎シーズン、これまでの歴史を思わせるものを何かしら取り入れてきたが、オリジナルのリメイクはクバが初めてだ。このテニスシューズはブランドのルーツであるスイスに敬意を表したもので、クバスタイルをオリジナルのインスピレーションとなったテニスチャンピオンのヤコブ・ラセク（通称クバ）が履いていた配色で提供している。フィレンツェの見本市ピッティ・ウォモで発表されたリメイク版は、同ブランドの歴史と強い結びつきを持つ現代版モデルだ。1851年に同社を創立したカール・フランツ・バリーは、モダンで機能的なデザインの提供を常に目指していた。それがブランドの精神になり、レトロの美しさをもった既製服やアクセサリーが加わった今も生きている。古典的プリントとブランドアイデンティティ、ブランド精神との切っても切れない関係を語るなら、やはりエトロとペイズリーだろう。2018年に創立50周年を迎えたエトロでは、ブランド伝統のディテールをデザインに必ず取り入れてきた。クラシックなボヘミアンシックのペイズリー柄が初登場したのは1981年。以来、服から革製品、インテリア用品に至るまで、ありとあらゆるものに使っている。エトロの広大な資料庫には18世紀から19世紀にかけてのプリントやファブリックが数百点収蔵され、絶えることのないインスピレーションの源になっている。ペイズリーは古代西アジアのメソポタミア地方を起源とする涙型のデザインだが、エトロではどのコレクションでもこの古典的な柄を下敷きにしたデザインを展開している。同じモチーフを常にアップデートし、なおかつルーツとのつながりをキープしているのだ。1968年に同ブランドを立ち上げたジェロラモ・エトロは、自らの旅行体験をもとに歴史への情熱を仕事に注いだ。今も一族で経営するエトロは、コレクションもパーソナルなテーマを色濃く反映したものになっている。エトロと同様、革新的な靴デザインでブランドを構築してきたサルヴァトーレ・フェラガモにも過去の資料が豊富にある。同社は350件以上の特許を持ち、2万点に上る

モデルの資料は1920年の革新的スタイルまで遡る。同社は今まで素材と機能をデザインの主眼にしてきた。そのことは、1995年にフィレンツェにオープンしたサルバトーレ・フェラガモ美術館の展示を見れば明らかだ。今シーズン、クリエイティブディレクターのポール・アンドリューは、女優ロレッタ・ヤングのために作られた 1940年代の靴をインスピレーションにした。彫刻調木製ブロックヒールの網地サンダルから、革編み込みのディテールを施したフラットスタイルへ発想を遊ばせ、オリジナルのサンダルのモダンバージョンを登場させた。既製服ラインも、ヤシの木の前に立つヤングの写真をヒントに、2019年春夏のプリントやシルエットを作っている。これらのブランドはみな、単に過去のヒット商品を再投入しているのではない。昔のデザインを21世紀流に再発想し、過去の天才と現在の独創性を融合させ、大いに愛された名品を現代の客層にあったものに刷新しているのだ。

68: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある30 万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。 2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5 ％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

SOUVENIR

SUMMER CLASSIC The Elena Ghisellini collection for spring/ summer 2019 is inspired by the summer, swimming pools and exotic designations. As well as offering a chic update to the brand’s classic boxy shapes it presents several new styles. This neutral beige and cream leather bag is perfect to add to your wardrobe and will make a statement with everything from jeans, to dresses, morning or night. Florence-based accessory designer Elena Ghisellini founded Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 68

her namesake brand in 2003, while she was head accessory designer for Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy. She subsequently worked as head accessory designer at Emilio Pucci. In addition to running her own label, today she is a consultant to other brands, including Tod’s. fm Elena Ghisellini bag, €695, Coin, Via Cola di Rienzo 173, 00192 Rome, +39 06 3600 4298, elenaghisellini.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 67

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