SHOP Stockholm SS15

STOCKHOLM | СТОКГОЛЬМ | 斯德哥尔摩

STOCKHOLM City Edition Spring/Summer 2015

Page 54 FLOWER POWER: discover the Swedish fragrances inspired by nature

HUGO BOSS Nordic ApS Phone +45 33 188000 www.hugoboss.com

Stockholm BOSS Store Biblioteksgatan 1 Phone +46 8611 4240

BIRGER JARLSGATAN 5 路 STOCKHOLM NATHALIESCHUTERMAN.COM

ALTUZARRA AQUAZZURA ALEXANDER WANG BALENCIAGA CÉLINE CHLOÉ CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA DOLCE & GABBANA DRIES VAN NOTEN EQUIPMENT FENDI GIVENCHY GIAMBATTISTA VALLI IRO JAMES PERSE JOSEPH KENZO LANVIN MIU MIU MARNI MARY KATRANTZOU MISSONI MALO MONCLER MATTHEW WILLIAMSON MARC JACOBS PRADA 3.1 PHILLIP LIM RAG & BONE SAINT LAURENT STELLA MCC ARTNEY SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE TABITHA SIMMONS TOM FORD TODS THE ROW TIBI THEORY TORY BURCH VINCE VALENTINO

THE FUSION COLLECTION B I R G E R J A R L S G ATA N 13 N K D E PA R T M E N T S T O R E H A M N G ATA N 1 8 - 20 STOCKHOLM G E O R G J E N S E N .C O M + 45 701 2 3 420

Glow

from the depth of your soul

Quality Guaranteed by Copenhagen Amber Museum C O P E N H A G E N

S T O C K H O L M

B E I J I N G

House of Amber 路 22 Birger Jarlsgatan 路 Stockholm S H A N G H A I

H O N G

K O N G

M A C A U

D U B A I

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Welcome to Stockholm Maybe you’re already familiar with Stockholm, or perhaps it’s the frst time you’ve visited this vibrant capital city. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover Stylein, a quintessentially Scandinavian fashion label, in our feature on page 62.

In this edition, we also profle Skultuna, a brass company set up over 400 years ago (page 70) and visit the new store from Swedish sneaker maker Eytys (page 46).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 19% when shopping in Sweden. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Stockholm. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Руководство Германия

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CONTRIBUTORS

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE

Andrew Nye London-based illustrator Andrew Nye has a love for vector illustration and created this season’s cover for SHOP Stockholm. His graphic and conceptual approach makes him the perfect choice for this cover. The illustration shows a perfume bottle being sprayed, with the vapour becoming a fower, in reference to our feature on page 54 about natural Swedish fragrances.

Read more about our illustrations at global blue.com/covers.

Josh Sims For this edition of SHOP Stockholm, freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims takes an in-depth look at the historic Swedish brass company Skultuna. Josh also writes for Wallpaper, Esquire and the Financial Times among others. globalblue.com

Katy Young Katy Young has been a beauty journalist for more than a decade, working for Harper’s Bazaar and the Telegraph Online. For this issue of SHOP she has researched some of Sweden’s leading fragrance companies.

Verity Hogan History graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue a career in journalism.

Verity is now employed as SHOP’s features editor.

SOPHISTICATED ACCESSORIES FROM PRESTIGIOUS BRANDS. The key to a successful outfit lies in the details. NK Access is home to an impressive range of accessories from a wide range of fashion brands. Discover bags, shoes, jewelry and other accessories from both international and national well known fashion brands.

Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, CB made in Italy, Dodo, Dolce Gabbana, Lara Bohinc, Loewe, Maria Nilsdotter, Moreau, Sophie by Sophie, Sophie Gyllenhammar, Tom Ford.

Welcome to NK Access.

NK ACCESS

MONDAY–FRIDAY 10AM–8PM. SATURDAY 10AM–6PM. SUNDAY 11AM–5PM. HAMNGATAN. +46 8-762 80 00. NK.SE.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh

Cover illustrator Andrew Nye

Online production assistant Marina Nelson

Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims, Katy Young Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold

Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova

GLOBA L BLU E SW EDEN Managing director Robert Ehinger Sales manager: accounts and marketing services Daniel Andersson Key account managers Maria Ekstam, Christopher Hedin, Martina Johnson, Katarina Thelin, Carolina Wadsby Account managers Ida Acha, Yasemin Bilir, Jonas Kei Global Blue Sverige AB, Västmannagatan 8, 111 24 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5452 8440 Regional tourist office Stockholm Tourist Centre, Kulturhuset, Sergels Torg, 111 20 Stockholm

Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Fashion coordinator Fani Mari

Print Dane Consultancy

Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn

Commercial editor Gemma Latham

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey

Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline

Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: HENRIK TRYGG/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

p.54

P ROD U C T S 26 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Stockholm this season 28 My Favourites Rodrigo Gutierrez Benavente, founder of the label A.O.CMS, and fashion designer Martin Bergström, reveal their top tips for spring/summer 2015 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 38 Street Style Our pick of Stockholm’s best dressed for spring/summer 2015 N EWS 40 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Stockholm 42 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 54 Cover Story: Perfect Scents Sweden’s perfume labels make the most of the country’s rich natural produce and minimalist aesthetic to produce enticingly fresh fragrances. By Katy Young Above: Sweden’s beautiful scenery inspires its fragrance brands

62 Pure and Simple With its clean lines and refned silhouettes, Stylein epitomises the Scandinavian aesthetic. Sally McIlhone meets designer and founder Elin Alemdar 70 Metal Masters Heritage brass company Skultuna, established more than 400 years ago, is undergoing a revival as it embraces a new modernist design aesthetic, Josh Sims discovers 76 New Directions Designers at Fashion Week Stockholm are stepping away from classically Scandinavian style by introducing colour, texture and retro-infuences, Verity Hogan reports EXPERIENCE 84 Café Culture A new wave of artisan cafés and bakeries is perking up Stockholm’s famed cofee culture. SHOP visits some of the best 88 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

STELLA McCARTNEY RALPH LAUREN BLK DNM

HUGO BOSS

MARC BY MARC JACOBS

ACNE STUDIOS

BYREDO

RODEBJER

BURBERRY

HOPE

[AND OTHERS]

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CONTENTS

GU I DE 93 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Stockholm, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights 114 My City Leila Lindholm, the owner of Leila’s General Store, shares her Stockholm recommendations

ESSENTI A LS 116 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 118 Русский Перевод 126 美文翻译 POSTCA R D 130 SHOP writes home about H&M

E N GL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

ONLINE

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

FASHION

COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

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Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker

Conquest Classic Moonphase

26 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

A RARE FIND The result of a collaboration between House of Amber and Danish jewellery designer Mai Manniche, these earrings ofer a refreshing alternative to the yellow and orange hues typically associated with amber, featuring a striking mix of rare green and brown coloured stones. Formed from the resin of trees hardening over millions of year, amber often features inclusions of air bubbles that give the stones a cloudy appearance. It can also include insects and plants preserved in the substance, which makes certain pieces extremely valuable. Transparent amber is also Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

prized for its rarity, making the quality of the amber in this collection notable for its clarity as well as for its colour. Green amber is found in the tropical regions of South America and is typically between three and four million years old. Set into rose gold-plated sterling silver, the warm tones of gold and rich brown perfectly complement the spectacular green stones. gl House of Amber Divine earrings, SEK 3,375, House of Amber, Birger Jarlsgatan 22, 114 34 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 663 8869, houseofamber.com * for map go to page 102

sm책landsgatan 10

11146 stockholm

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MY FAVOURITES: Rodrigo Gutierrez Benavente Rodrigo Gutierrez Benavente is the founder and creative director of A.O.CMS, which he established in Stockholm in 2006. The label focuses on comfort and design, and has built a reputation as a purveyor of high-quality wardrobe staples.

Stocked in boutiques around Europe and Asia, A.O.CMS makes Nordic chic accessible to clients in other parts of the world. Here, Rodrigo shares his eclectic tastes with Theresa Harold aocms.com

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Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

S H O P | 29

1. ‘My favourite homewares store is Svenskt Tenn. Visitors should defnitely check out the printed plates’ Svenskt Tenn plate, 45cm, SEK 520; 65cm, SEK 820, Svenskt Tenn, Strandvägen 5, 114 51 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 670 1600, svenskttenn.se

2. ‘When it comes to travelling, I can’t do without my Bowers & Wilkins C5 in-ear headphones. There is no competition’ Bowers & Wilkins C5 Series 2 headphones, SEK 1,498, Hi-Fi Klubben, Fleminggatan 89, 112 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 650 7946, bowers-wilkins.com

4. ‘My favourite piece from our SS15 collection is the unisex Imitation Denim Shirt.

It’s made out of fne lamb’s nappa leather and printed with denim-blue coloured patterns. It’s an expensive imitation of something cheap, which is very representative of how my head works in terms of product design’

5. ‘On the top of my wishlist for the season is Our Legacy’s sweatshirt in white mussola’ Our Legacy sweatshirt, SEK 1,000, Our Legacy, Jakobsbergsgatan 11, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 1010, ourlegacy.se

A.O.CMS shirt, SEK 3,499, Aplace, Bruno Galleria, Götgatan 36, 118 26 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 643 3110, aocms.com

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3. ‘If you’re looking for a Stockholm souvenir, these unisex Pia Wallén wool slippers are a good choice’ Pia Wallén slippers, SEK 600, Asplund, Sibyllegatan 31, 114 42 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 662 5284, piawallen.se

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PHOTOS: (1) SVENSKT TENN; (2) BOWERS & WILKINS; (5) OURLEGACY.SE

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globalblue.com

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MY FAVOURITES: Martin Bergström Martin Bergström is a highly creative fashion designer. Taking inspiration from everything from cabbages and outer space to waste materials and forgotten handicraft techniques, his clothing fuses organic shapes and couture-like construction with a playful aesthetic. Based in Stockholm, he shares some of his favourite products with Ximena Daneri martinbergstrom.com

1. ‘My favourite products from my collection this season are the custom-made colour splash platform Virus shoes. Contact me via my website to order a pair’

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Martin Bergström Virus shoes, price on request, martinbergstrom.com

2. ‘This is one of my favourite fragrances’ Humiecki & Graef Bosque perfume, 100ml, SEK 1,400, Cow Parfymeri, Mäster Samuelsgatan 9, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 1504, humieckiandgraef.com

3. ‘Christina Salongen has been my skin therapist for almost 15 years. The salon sells the brand EmerginC, which gets my skin in shape’ EmerginC Phytocell Serum, 30ml, SEK 699, Christina Salongen, Birger Jarlsgatan 23, 111 45 Stockholm, +44 (0)8 611 2015, emerginc.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

S H O P | 31

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PHOTO: (5) CYRILLE ROBIN

4. ‘Jus is the best shop in town. It has a great selection of avant-garde names including Ann Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela and Comme des Garçons’ Jus, Brunnsgatan 7, 111 38 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 206777, jus.se

globalblue.com

5. ‘Nitty Gritty has lots of diferent brands, ofering a nice mix; it’s very Stockholmish. I go there to buy Cire Trudon scented candles’ Cire Trudon scented candle, SEK 550, Nitty Gritty, Krukmakargatan 26, 118 51 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 658 2440, trudon.com

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OFF-DUTY STYLE Be the hero of downtime dressing with these laid-back pieces

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1. Stutterheim raincoat, SEK 2,395, Stutterheim, ร sรถgatan 132, 116 24 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 408 103 98, stutterheim.com

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3. Acne Studios bangle, SEK 2,600, Acne Studios, Norrmalmstorg 2, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 6411, acnestudios.com

2. Tiger of Sweden jeans, SEK 999, Tiger of Sweden, Jakobsbergsgatan 8, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 440 3060, tigerofsweden.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

4. Louis Vuitton sunglasses, SEK 3,350, Louis Vuitton, Birger Jarlsgatan 5A, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 9200, louisvuitton.com

S H O P | 33 3

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5. Sandqvist bag, SEK 1,995, Sandqvist, Swedenborgsgatan 3, 118 48 Stockholm, +46 (0)7 6221 0475, sandqvist.net 6. Diesel boots, SEK 2,399, Diesel, Biblioteksgatan 9, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 644 5588, diesel.com

globalblue.com

7. Victorinox watch, SEK 5,490, Klockmaster FältÜversten, Karlaplan 13, 115 20 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 661 6192, victorinox.com

8. Cos T-shirt, SEK 490, Cos, Biblioteksgatan 3, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5450 1050, cosstores.com

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CITY STYLE

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Combine dusty shades of stone with washed denim and a splash of gold for the ultimate in daytime chic 4 1

1. Filippa K boots, SEK 2,600, Filippa K, Grev Turegatan 18, 114 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5458 8888, flippa-k.com

3. Efva Attling earrings, SEK 1,700, Efva Attling, Biblioteksgatan 14, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 9080, efvaattling.com

2. Dr Denim jeans, SEK 599, Dr Denim, Bondegatan 46, 116 33 Stockholm, +46 (0)7 6863 7687, drdenimjeans.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

4. By Malene Birger coat, SEK 5,099, By Malene Birger, Biblioteksgatan 12, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 0120, bymalenebirger.com

PHOTOS: (2) KJELL B PERSSON; (4) Š STEEN EVALD

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LEGENDARY LUXURY. Cartier is a perfect reason to visit NK Juvelsalong, one of the most exclusive watch and jewellery departments in Europe. From among an exquisite selection of international and Swedish brands, we present the Cartier watch collection. Welcome to NK Juvelsalong.

MONDAY – FRIDAY 10AM – 8PM. SATURDAY 10AM – 6PM. SUNDAY 11AM – 5PM. HAMNGATAN. +46 8 – 762 80 00. NK.SE.

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THE MIDAS TOUCH What is it about a splash of gold that takes everything to the next level?

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1. Louis Vuitton shoes, SEK 4,600, Louis Vuitton, Birger Jarlsgatan 5A, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (8) 611 9200, louisvuitton.com

3. Chanel lipstick, SEK 365, NK Kosmetik, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8000, chanel.com

2. Maria Nilsdotter necklace, SEK 10,400, Maria Nilsdotter, Sturegatan 6, 114 35 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 9300, marianilsdotter.com

4. Gucci scarf, SEK 1,850, Gucci, Birger Jarlsgatan 1, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5450 0544, gucci.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

5. Verso Super Facial oil, SEK 1,650, Cow Parfymeri, Mäster Samuelsgatan 9, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 1504, versoskincare.com

PHOTO: (4) © PATRIK LINDELL

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WELCOME TO OUR WORLD

CHRONOMAT AIRBORNE

Drottninggatan 39, 111 51 Stockholm Tel: 08-100718, info@franksur.com www.franksur.com

38 | P RO D U C T S

STREET STYLE

PHOTOS: EMANUELE D’ANGELO/LC-JOURNAL.COM

Stockholm’s most stylish denizens take casual chic to the next level through the clever use of accessories. Whether they go classic with Hermès, urban with Adidas or edgy with Valentino, these street style stars know it’s all in the details

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

S H O P | 39

globalblue.com

40 | N E W S

PHOTO: LUDGER PAFFRATH

SHOP WINDOW

FABLED BEAUTY Skincare specialist Aesop has just opened its frst Swedish store. The brand, which is renowned for its top-quality skin, hair and body products, has long been praised for its use of natural ingredients and many of its products, such as the Parsley Seed Cleansing Masque, are favourites of beauty editors and clients.

Architects Katarina Lundeberg and Fredric Benesch of In Praise of Shadows, along with artist Lies-Marie Hofmann, have collectively Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

designed the new store, which honours Aesop’s minimalistic nature. Walls are painted cream, while all furniture and decorations are made from wood, creating a rustic feel.

Trained consultants are always on hand in this impressive shop, which stocks the brand’s complete range. rf Aesop, Jakobsbergsgatan 5-9, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 1945, aesop.com * for map go to page 105

Birger Jarlsgatan 12. mon–fri 10–18, sat 10–17. maxital aB – franchisee max mara

sPortmax.com

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PHOTO: KIMMO VIRTANEN

PLAY WITH PRINTS Liven up your wardrobe and your home with Finnish brand Marimekko. In the latest womenswear collection, the label’s recognisable prints are splashed across a wide range of items, from scarves to dresses, with the season’s designs showing abstract oceans, jungles and fowers. Marimekko frst found fame for its unique approach to interior design, and the same enticing prints can be found adorning towels, fabrics and even kitchen equipment in its Stockholm store. mkh Marimekko, Norrmalmstorg 4, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 440 3275, marimekko.com * for map go to page 105

THE VENUE THAT ROCKS The Hard Rock Cafe in Stockholm celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, and to mark the occasion it has recently undergone an extensive refurbishment. The Rock Shop will Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

be twice as large and promotions, including live music events, will run from March until December. Don’t leave without picking up a Hard Rock Cafe classic tee – this is a style staple that should be in every wardrobe. mhk Hard Rock Cafe, Sveavägen 75, 113 50 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5454 9400, hardrock.se

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN KARLSSON

S H O P | 43

BRIGHT LIGHTS Luxury home accessories label Skogsberg & Smart was founded by Magnus Skogsberg and Mimmi Smart, former advertising professionals who decided to sell their own products. Their frst, the beautiful Hurricane lamp, is still a standout piece. Made from hand-blown glass in Bohemia, which is widely

acknowledged to be the location of the world’s leading glassblowers, the design is available in four sizes and four colours – silver, gold, bronze and rose. When a lit candle is placed inside, an atmospheric glow is created, which can be enjoyed inside or outside. hl NK Hem & Inredning, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8031, skogsbergsmart.com * for map go to page 105

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DIAMONDS

BY DESIGN Located on one of Stockholm’s oldest shopping streets, Goldbar Jewellery & Design is ideal for those looking for a special gift. Goldsmith Lotta Torstensson creates jewellery with a distinctly Scandinavian aesthetic and her collections are elegant, expressive and timeless. The Papilio collection of rings, earrings and bracelets is inspired by butterfies, orchids and the button tiara which is traditionally worn by the crown princess of Sweden. Each piece features an intricate pattern of brilliant cut diamonds and is available in red gold or white gold.

Items are made to the client’s specifcation; visit the studio on Köpmangatan to see what Torstensson can create for you. mhk Goldbar Jewellery & Design, Köpmangatan 16, 111 31 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 612 8058, goldbar.se * for map go to page 106

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

NEW HORIZONS

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

This season, quintessentially British brand Burberry has taken inspiration from intrepid travel writer Bruce Chatwin for its menswear collection. There’s a strong focus on a vivid palette of cyan, cerise and cobalt blues, which contrast against punches of yellows, burnt orange and reds, and big block-colours are set across relaxed tailored trousers and knitwear. Burberry’s staple trench coat has been reinvented in deep plum nubuck suede, while the season’s look is completed with oversized leather bags decorated in large, characterful script, with touches of denim and trainers completing the label’s laid-back luxury look. rp Burberry, Biblioteksgatan 6, 111 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 8208, burberry.com * for map go to page 104

PHOTO: RAGNVID.COM

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EVEN MORE IN STORE Åhléns City has recently expanded its already impressive ofer. A personal shopper service is now available, where fashion and beauty appointments can be booked with a specialist, while a home décor advice facility has also been introduced. In addition, the store

has opened a vast children’s section on the top foor. Aiming to take them on a journey of discovery, the space has been inspired by the natural heritage and fairy tales of Scandinavia.

Catering for babies upwards, the colourful and creative area aims to provide everything children need, under one roof. hl Åhléns City, Klarabergsgatan 50, 111 21 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 676 6000, ahlens.se

MAZE OF MINIMALISM Swedish sneaker maker Eytys has recently opened its very frst store, in the city where it was founded. The shop, which has been designed in collaboration with cabinet maker Axel Wannberg, sells the brand’s own collections, as well as pottery by Jessica Hans, Konst-ig books, Swatch watches and Yung Lean merchandise. The white walls have builtin storage for accessories while mint green and glass cabinets are dotted around displaying other items. These details make for a modern and fresh boutique, which is worth hunting out during your trip. rf Eytys, Luntmakargatan 15, 111 37 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 6844 2080, eytys.com Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

PHOTO: JONAS LINDSTRÖM

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NUMBER ONE FOR WATCHES Swedish watch brand TID has just opened its frst standalone store. Founded in 2012, TID has progressed rapidly and the new shop refects the watchmaker’s distinctive designs, which are laidback and simple. The store follows a modern, minimalistic scheme, in which white walls, Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

pine furniture and concrete foors all feature.

Timepieces are displayed in large shelving units around the store, which sells some of TID’s most recognisable timepieces and straps, including the No 1 watch, with its concave face, NATO strap and stainless steel case. rf TID Watches, Torsgatan 59, 113 37 Stockholm, +46 (0)70 457 5988, tidwatches.com

F I L I P PA - K . C O M

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DESIGNER VISION The delightful Nathalie Schuterman boutique on the prestigious Birger Jarlsgatan is an essential destination for those looking for designer womenswear. Clothing, shoes, bags and accessories from a wide range of international brands are available, including Céline, Valentino, Stella McCartney and Marc Jacobs. There’s also the opportunity to discover local names such as Stockholm-based

silversmith All Blues, fragrance specialist Byredo, Flattered – which makes luxury ballet fats, and contemporary clothing label Totême.

With everything you need from casual daywear to statement evening ensembles, Nathalie Schuterman is sure to inspire you this season. gl Nathalie Schuterman, Birger Jarlsgatan 5, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 6201, nathalieschuterman.com * for map go to page 104

SWEDEN MEETS SWITZERLAND Swedish watch label Sjöö Sandström has just launched a new timepiece, the Royal Capital, featuring a movement from Swiss company Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.

This collaboration fuses Swedish design with Swiss watchmaking, resulting in a timepiece that balances Scandinavian minimalism with Swiss horological expertise. Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier is renowned for its highly trained craftspeople and it only works with a few selected companies, making the Royal Capital a landmark piece for Sjöö Sandström. hl NK Juvelsalong, Hamngatan 18-20, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 762 8455, sjoosandstrom.se * for map go to page 105 Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

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PERFECT IMPERFECTIONS

WATCH THIS SPACE Exciting things are happening at Krons Ur which has just completed a major renovation and redesign. The expanded store, which aims to be the most stylish and modern watch boutique in the city, has introduced a Rolex shop-in-shop, Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 116

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

A Prada catwalk show is never just about the clothes, and the spring/summer 2015 event was no exception. It was about the set (lilac-coloured sand dunes), the soundtrack (courtesy of Frédéric Sanchez) and even the canapés (squares of chocolate on a piece of dry bread). And, because nothing is ever incidental with Miuccia Prada, these elements combined to produce a subtle alchemy. Brocade took centre stage, albeit slightly the worse for wear, as with each look the clothes seemed to be gently unravelling.

There were 30 brocades in the collection, all faithfully reproduced from antique textiles exclusively for Prada. From fraying silks to patchwork panels, the clothing looked as if it had survived a tragedy and then been lovingly restored. This was an ode to craftsmanship and to the role of fashion in preserving such skills. th Prada, Birger Jarlsgatan 11, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 660 5700, prada.com * for map go to page 104

which is the frst new point of sale in Sweden for the Swiss brand in many years. Among the other labels available are Omega, Breitling, IWC, Chopard and Tag Heuer, making this a mustvisit destination. mhk Krons Ur, Hamngatan 14, 11147 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5451 3650, kronsur.com * for map go to page 105

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Sweden’s perfume labels make the most of the country’s rich natural produce and minimalist aesthetic to produce enticingly fresh fragrances. By Katy Young It may not be the frst country to come to mind when thinking of fne fragrance, but Sweden has produced a clutch of luxury labels which are attracting international attention and acclaim. Specialising in fresh fragrances, often made with natural ingredients, these companies often provide alternatives to the denser formulations created elsewhere in Europe.

Orifame was set up 47 years ago in a small, two-room ofce in Stockholm. Brothers Robert and Jonas af Jochnick launched the label hoping

to bring Sweden’s clean-living lifestyle and fresh natural scents to the rest of the world.

Named after the medieval royal banner of France, the label now ofers 216 fragrances for men and women, has an annual turnover of €1.5 billion and is sold in 60 countries.

In addition to its concept store in Stockholm, the company employs a team of three million door-to-door sales staf. The reason for this approach, according to Magnus Brännström, CEO and president of Orifame, was because

PERFECT SCENTS

PHOTO: MELKER DAHLSTRAND/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

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consumers in the 1960s often felt more at ease trying and selecting a product at home, rather than approaching often very beautiful women who worked in beauty stores.

Another factor behind the company’s success is the high calibre of the people on board. Two of the world’s greatest modern perfumers are behind the company’s scents – Jean Jacques and Francis Kurkdjian – who also create fragrances for other international names including Elie Saab, Burberry and Givenchy. Today, Orifame’s perfumes include seductive blends using notes such as black rose, amber, jasmine and patchouli as well as fresh scents featuring green basil, vanilla orchid and orange blossom.

Byredo is another leading Swedish perfumer: established in 2006, its product range is manufactured entirely in Sweden.

The label’s founder Ben Gorham spent the majority of his formative years in Canada but now lives in Stockholm, and his fragrances are thoroughly Swedish. ‘The spirit and the look of Byredo refect the Scandinavian design 118 /

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Previous page: Stockholm’s perfumers take infuence from the city’s natural surroundings

WELCOME to the Centre of Modern Design Enter the department store Illums Bolighus and enjoy an exclusive world of quality and world-famous international and Danish design. On several foors of inspiring displays you will fnd only the very fnest in exquisite design, kitchenware, tablware, lamps, carpets, textiles, furniture and fashion.

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aesthetic – a love for pared-down minimalism,’ he explains. ‘Our fragrances are not cluttered and you can smell the ingredients clearly, which is important for me. One’s surroundings are important in the creative process – a perfume maker is always infuenced by the environment.’

‘The Swedish enjoy great structure and form and I do agree that my particular aesthetic prefers considered simplicity,’ says Gorham. ‘I like the notes to have space and for the fragrance concepts to be communicated clearly. Less is defnitely more when it comes to great ingredients.’ Gorham has recently started using more Swedish ingredients in Byredo’s fragrances, such as wild Angelica and lingonberry. The 1996 scent, inspired by a photograph of a young girl taken by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, features notes of icy juniper berries, along with leather and black amber in a typically minimalist mix.

Niclas and Christine Lydeen, the couple behind Agonist, believe that their range of seven luxury fragrances owes a great deal to Swedish culture and heritage. ‘Our hard Previous page (clockwise from top lef): Orifame Voyager Woman eau de toilete; Heather in bloom, Sweden; Orifame concept store

PHOTOS: (TOP RIGHT) BOHMAN+SJÖSTRAND; (BOTTOM) MIKAEL GÖTHAGE

Swedish brands are ensuring that the country makes its mark on the international fragrance market

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work and focus on detail is very Swedish,’ says Niclas Lydeen. ‘The human aspect and our sustainable approach is also something that comes from our Swedish heritage. The feeling and tone of the brand comes from the poetic beauty of Sweden’s nature and culture: the shifting seasons, the cold, dark winters and the beautiful light in the summer, the poems of Karin Boye, the images of Ingmar Bergman and so on.’ The result is a range flled with evocative sounding scents such as Arctic Jade, Isis and Vanilla Marble.

From Byredo’s light forals to Orifame’s exotic spice and Agonist’s handmade blends, Swedish brands are ensuring the country makes its mark on the international fragrance market.

‘The world of fne fragrances has opened up in the last few years,’ explains Gorham.

‘Countries that have not had the same historical and cultural relationship with fragrance that France and Italy have had are getting involved and bringing a new spirit to the industry.’ orifame.com, byredo.com, agonistparfums.com Above (clockwise from lef): Byredo founder and creative director Ben Gorham; the brand’s Black Safron eau de parfum uses notes of juniper berries; angelica and lingonberry are used in the Flowerhead eau de parfum; Agonist workshop; the brand’s No 10 White Oud unisex fragrance; the brand’s founders Christine and Niclas Lydeen

F I N D Y O U R N E A R E S T S T O R E AT M Q . S E

With its clean lines and refned silhouettes, Stylein epitomises the Scandinavian aesthetic.

Sally McIlhone meets designer and founder Elin Alemdar

PHOTO: DENNIS WERNERSSON

PURE AND SIMPLE Swedish women always seem to be one step ahead of the crowd when it comes to style.

Casually pairing dresses with trainers is on point and wardrobes are minimalist and functional, stripped of unnecessary fuss in favour of high-quality, multifunctional investment pieces. Refecting this trend, and taking pride of place in many Scandinavian wardrobes, is Stylein, a luxury Swedish label from designer Elin Alemdar.

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Alemdar has been working in the fashion industry since 2001 and has seen how the international style community has increasingly embraced Swedish aesthetics during this time.

‘I started doing Paris Fashion Week trade shows and I saw a huge amount of interest from the Asian countries eight years ago,’ explains Alemdar. ‘Now the Swedish trend is peaking worldwide, not only in fashion but also in lifestyle. Why that is the case is really Lef: Stylein spring/summer 2015

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hard to answer because when you’re in your own bubble, you don’t really have perspective.

Success has borne new success and having brands such as Acne putting the spotlight on Swedish fashion helps a lot.’

Stylein is clearly one of the labels beneftting from the Scandinavian style explosion but, unlike directional fashion giants Acne, Stylein focuses on pared-back, refned silhouettes with edge. ‘Sometimes simplicity is the best, but it’s also the hardest to design.

People might think it’s easy to design simple styles but, in fact, the opposite is true,’ says Alemdar.

It’s this commitment to streamlined style that has seen Stylein become a leading label for classic wardrobe staples, something that fts perfectly with the Swedish predilection for ecofriendly living and environmental concerns.

‘The long-term investment in buying a piece that you can adapt for diferent situations is a reaction against mass consumption, fast trends and throwaway fashion,’ Alemdar continues.

Above (from top): Stylein spring/summer 2015 presentation; the brand’s designer and founder Elin Alemdar

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‘Stylein has always been focused on the thought that an item of clothing is a precious thing and that you should be able to wear it for a long time, in many diferent ways. That’s why we love simple designs: you can add your accessories, your make-up or even just your personality, to complete the outft.’

Even with a staunch commitment to simplicity, it’s sometimes easy to be swayed by sweeping trends for graphic print and searing colour schemes. Thankfully, Stylein has stayed true to its philosophy. ‘Something that’s been very important for me is to keep believing in the core aesthetics that we stand for. You stay consistent and don’t deviate just because that’s what the market is asking for,’ says Alemdar.

‘That took me quite a few years to understand.

In the past, if after a fashion show I got the Above (all): Stylein spring/summer 2015

Stylein’s spring/ summer 2015 collection contains hints of print, texture and metallics but these are used intelligently to enhance the overall aesthetic and take it in a new direction

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response “Oh, you could really see that was Stylein” I saw it almost as a negative comment, but nowadays I understand that it’s positive.’

That’s not to say that the label is stuck in a rut. Stylein’s spring/summer 2015 collection contains hints of print, texture and metallics but these are used intelligently to enhance the overall aesthetic and take it in a new direction.

‘Of course we have to reinvent ourselves, but within the world of Stylein.’

Although Alemdar is heavily infuenced by the Swedish design aesthetic, she also fnds inspiration in New York, the place where she studied and launched her line 14 years ago. ‘It took a place like New York for me to realise that I wanted to do this kind of job and bring out this Scandinavian luxury line,’ says Alemdar. ‘In New York anything

is possible and this infuenced me more than my heritage in a way, maybe not the aesthetics but the feeling of “Let’s try this and let’s risk everything and be brave about it”.’

After 14 years in the industry, having taken risks and reaped the rewards, many might expect a designer’s passion to start to wane.

Not so for Alemdar. ‘To see someone wearing our designs is still the ultimate achievement,’ she confrms. ‘I still do a victory dance in my mind because I’m humbled that someone stood in a queue and paid for our specifc design.

That’s still a very exciting thought.’

As Stylein continues to dominate wardrobes across Sweden and worldwide, it’s clear that Alemdar will be doing her victory dance for many years to come stylein.com

At KappAhl fashion is all about YOU. We bring you afordable, in style fashion for women, men and kids. We ofer a mix of basic key items to the latest trend hits, everything that makes you look good every day of your life.

F IND YO U R S T O R E AT K A P PA H L .C O M

METAL

Heritage brass company Skultuna was established more than 400 years ago.

Set up by the king of Sweden, it still supplies the royal family.

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MASTERS

It’s now embracing a new modernist design aesthetic, resulting in intriguing homewares, jewellery and accessories. Josh Sims fnds out more

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W

hen looking at the latest products from Stockholm homeware manufacturers Skultuna, many would be convinced that the company is a recent start-up. Its modern pieces, in brass or sterling silver, are sleek and minimal, and are perfect examples of Scandinavian design.

In fact, the company was founded in 1607, by the then king of Sweden, Karl IX. Skultuna has specialised in brass items for over 400 years and is now a world-leader in the skills required to shape and fnish the material.

With a frm eye on its heritage, the company is an ofcial supplier to the Swedish royal family, but it has also developed by bringing on board cutting-edge designers from Sweden and from other countries. Its new Via Fondazza vases are by Italian designer Paolo Dell’Elce, and collaborations have also been set up with Thomas Sandell, Olof Kolte, Claesson Koivisto Rune, Monica Förster and Folkform.

What unites these designs, according to Skultuna’s managing director Viktor Blomqvist, is timelessness. ‘This is a quality that comes from being honest with materials,’ 122 /

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Previous page: Skultuna’s plant pots by Monica Förster and candlesticks by Richard Huton

IN STYLE SINCE 1906

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he says. ‘Historically, Scandivanian countries were very poor, with little time for anything lavish and that was not useful. Where others made in gold, we made in pine – and then painted it grey.’

Skultuna has undergone something of a revival in recent years. When Blomqvist joined the company in 2004, brass wasn’t fashionable, and he feels that Skultuna was, for a while, concentrating on ‘overly complicated’ designs.

The material is now enjoying a revival, and Skultuna has embraced a rawer and more industrial aesthetic. ‘Brass has become a very hot material,’ explains Blomqvist. ‘We’re making brass products at a fast pace for an international market. It was a big no-no in design until recently – everything had to be in brushed steel. One appeal of brass is its gold-like look. It’s a very warm material with an organic quality. It’s extremely durable, but needs to be cared for.’

Skultuna’s craftspeople are world experts in working with brass

Previous page (from top): Skultuna factory in Västmanland province, founded in 1607; Skultuna’s London Collection, designed by Lara Bohinc

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From sand casting and turning to blasting, grinding and brushing, Skultuna’s craftspeople are world experts in working with brass. According to Blomqvist, brass looks particularly good in candle light, which is why the company continues to make candle holders.

Its most recent range, the London Collection, has been devised by jewellery designer Lara Bohinc.

When it comes to jewellery items, Skultuna has been Sweden’s largest cufink maker for some 30 years – its Crown design is a classic – and it has also launched a fashion accessories line, which includes leather bracelets by Italian designer Lino Leluzzi.

Although Skultuna is now producing smaller items for the home and for personal wear, it has a tradition of making rather larger pieces, namely chandeliers. Its frst was created for a church in Enköping in 1619, and while it has been careful to ‘keep

reinventing itself and not live of the old classics’, the company still makes around 500 chandeliers a year. ‘We keep expanding our collaborations with hot design teams, and yet I’m astounded every year that we sell so many chandeliers,’ says Blomqvist.

He attributes this to the fact that many people have a ‘classic’ taste in design, and states that Skultuna, with its long history, is ideally placed to meet this demand.

Skultuna is the perfect example of a very long-established company that also has its eye frmly on the present. Visitors to Stockholm can now experience Skultuna’s collections in its frst concept store, located in the centre of the city at Grev Turegatan 18. The company is also catching the world’s attention: last year, its Flowerpots, by Monica Förster, won Wallpaper’s award for best product design.

Brass, it seems, is back skultuna.com

Above (clockwise from lef): Skultuna managing director Viktor Blomqvist; Via Fondazza vases designed by Paolo Dell’Elce; chandelier in the workshop; Collage collection designed by Folkform

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Designers at Fashion Week Stockholm are stepping away from classically Scandinavian style by introducing colour, texture and retro-infuences, Verity Hogan reports

NEW DIRECTIONS

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PHOTO: Š KRISTIAN LÖVEBORG/MBFW STOCKHOLM

s the Scandinavian aesthetic continues to be emulated and exalted across Europe, Fashion Week Stockholm is becoming an ever-more important fxture on the fashion calendar. Certain trends recur each season: colour palettes are generally muted, with black, grey and white dominating, layering generally features, and minimalism reigns. The spring/summer 2015 collections presented in Stockholm incorporated all of these characteristics but also ofered a rich array of fresh ideas, from clashing textures and feminine, emphasised waists to grungeinspired references.

The 1990s resurgence stormed onto the catwalks of designers at every end of the style spectrum, from Cheap Monday to Ida Klamborn. Checked lumberjack shirts were worn loosely or tied low-slung around waists, denim came distressed and acid washed, and apron-style skirts were layered over slim-ft trousers. The combination of skirts worn over trousers was a recurring theme throughout Fashion Week Stockholm, ranging from pleated A-line styles teamed with skinny leather trousers at House of Dagmar to loose tunics layered over wide-legged trousers at Carin Wester.

Previous page: Filippa K spring/summer 2015 Above (from top): House of Dagmar; Ida Klamborn, both spring/summer 2015

PHOTO: © KRISTIAN LÖVEBORG/MBFW STOCKHOLM

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Skirt and trouser combinations weren’t the only unusual pairing on display. Texture took the place of embellishment, adding interest to otherwise sleek silhouettes, and designers were not afraid to clash: Ann-Sofe Back’s difusion line BACK featured oversized densely fringed coats thrown over soft, close-cut dresses and sleek cotton tank tops paired with asymmetric matte leather wrap skirts, while Carin Wester’s distressed knitted sweaters gave edge to foaty chifon mid-length skirts.

This was a fashion week with a rebellious streak and many designers took the opportunity to mix up typically subtle Scandinavian palettes with a splash of colour. The cool white and taupe tones that dominated Filippa K’s collection were combined with pufs of powder pink while shades of grey were spiced up with zesty citrus accents. Whyred’s spring/summer 2015 range also incorporated block colours: taking inspiration from German collage-artist Kurt Schwitters, accents of colour appeared Above (from lef): BACK; Carin Wester, both spring/summer 2015

across the outfts, from metallic fabrics used on collars and cufs to fashes of pillar-box red and navy on jacket panels.

Despite this modern approach to colour, many of the looks presented on the catwalks of Fashion Week Stockholm had a surprisingly traditional and feminine feel. A defned waist featured in almost every collection, from the classic styles of Carin Wester to the more alternative oferings by up-and-coming duo AltewaiSaome. Wester’s belted trenches and buckled jumpsuits provided a sleek take on the trend while AltewaiSaome’s range featured lowslung side ties on silk dresses and wrap-around tops, and coats in beige and grey gained their colour from red and rich mahogany belts.

Designer Ida Klamborn closed the week with a show that refected almost all of the event’s main trends. Her monochrome palette was infused with khaki green, neon pink and orange; soft, translucent fabrics were paired with heavy sequins, and waists were

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emphasised with cropped tops and crossover detailing. ‘In my work, I always aim to fnd a balance between colour, shape and material,’ Klamborn explained. ‘For spring/summer 2015, I continued to work with elongated and foating silhouettes in materials such as neoprene, silk and denim.’

Klamborn was also one of the very few designers at Fashion Week Stockholm to incorporate print into her collection, which was seen in full skirts that hit just above the knee, on textured rufes on light sweatshirts and on the base of voluminous tunics worn over trousers. ‘I have created a very specifc print based on a spray-painted lily in orange and pink,’ says Klamborn. ‘The idea behind the print came up as I noticed how people in Stockholm used fowers to cover xenophobic signs painted on ofcial buildings in the city. The painted fowers symbolise a way to take action and show opposition by creating something beautiful.’

Along with the streak of rebellion, almost every collection presented at Fashion Week Stockholm displayed traits that the fashion community has come to regard as Scandinavian signatures. Filippa K presented pieces that were cut close to the body, using drapes and pleats to add texture, while Carin Wester looked to the Far East with her contemporary, minimalist collection which was flled with simple lines and light structuring.

PHOTO: © KRISTIAN LÖVEBORG/MBFW STOCKHOLM

PHOTO: SANNA TRYGG

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By retaining elements of a proven winning formula, Swedish designers gave themselves the perfect blank canvas for a spot of experimentation at Fashion Week Stockholm, resulting in one of the most engaging events on the European fashion calendar. Classic Swedish style remains at the heart of every collection but designers are becoming more willing to mix these traditional elements with more daring touches. And with results like these, it’s been well worth the risk fashionweek.se, annsofeback.com, carinwester.com, flippa-k.com, whyred.se, altewaisaome.com, idaklamborn.se

Above (from lef): designer Ida Klamborn; Filippa K spring/summer 2015

Pashion by

Looking for Swedish fashion? Step into PK-huset and fall in love. Here you’ll fnd youthful brands like design fagship Acne, classical Boomerang and boho chic Odd Molly. The Norweigan men’s fashion chain Volt harbours plenty of stylish Swedish brands, for example J. Lindeberg, Whyred, Filippa K, and Nudie. PK-huset is situated in the heart of Stockholm’s shopping district, next to NK. Get ready to experience passion for fashion.

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CAFÉ CULTURE A new wave of artisan cafés and bakeries is perking up Stockholm’s famed cofee culture. SHOP visits some of the best

Said to drink more cofee per person than those in any other country, the Swedes are experts when it comes to sourcing and preparing this hot drink. It’s no surprise, then, that the national tradition of fka, loosely translated as ‘cofee break’, is an integral part of Swedish culture. Typically, fka involves drinking cofee and socialising, and is usually accompanied by a pastry or cake, and countless cafés in Stockholm cater for this daily ritual. The choice of sweet treats is impressive, from cinnamon, cardamom or semla buns to princess cake – a sponge cake flled with cream and topped with marzipan. Traditional versions are widely available, while a new generation of talented bakers is making tempting new creations. globalblue.com

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PHOTO: RAGNAR ÓMARSSON

PÄ R L A N S Although located in the city’s hip Södermalm district, Pärlans has a charming old-fashioned aesthetic.

It specialises in traditional sweets, and is known for its caramels which are lovingly handmade on the premises.

The favours range from classics such as vanilla, to sea salt, passion fruit and apple cinnamon and the Swedish favourite, liquorice.

Other traditional sweets are also available, in addition to homemade caramel sauces.

Pärlans, Nytorgsgatan 38, 116 40 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 660 7010, parlanskonfektyr.se

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FA BR IQU E

PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUAS

Fabrique’s artisanal sourdough bread is so popular that the company now has 11 outposts across Stockholm. This traditional bread is made by hand using using only natural ingredients and baked in a stone oven.

The Nybrogatan branch is the ideal spot for a fka break, and we particularly recommend the bakery’s version of the traditional Swedish cardamom bun and the blueberry swirl.

Fabrique, Nybrogatan 6, 11434 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 661 8300, fabrique.se

DROP COF F E E ROA ST E R S Joanna Alm and Erik Rosendahl, the people behind Drop Cofee Roasters, have a passion for the beverage. The beans used are sustainably grown, fairly traded and roasted at the company’s roastery, in small batches to ensure the best-quality aromas. And, as you’d expect, each cup of cofee is meticulously globalblue.com

made by award-winning baristas. There’s an inviting range of homemade cakes and pastries to accompany your cofee for the perfect fka break, while toasted sandwiches and soups are also available.

Drop Cofee Roasters, Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 10, 118 50 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 4102 3363, dropcofee.com

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GREEN RABBIT Chefs Martin Berg and Mathias Dahlgren are well respected in Sweden. Dahlgren’s restaurant at the Grand Hotel has twoMichelin stars, and the pair has worked together for over a decade. Turning their talents to baked goods, they set up the Green Rabbit last year. Try the rye bread,

which is made according to a traditional Scandinavian recipe, and the pastries, which are quickly attracting a devoted fan base.

The Green Rabbit is open for breakfast, while at lunchtime, soup and Swedish open sandwiches are served.

Green Rabbit, TegnĂŠrgatan 17, 111 40 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 204626, greenrabbit.se

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STAY IN STYLE

PHOTO: LIGHTTRAPPER PHOTOGRAPHY

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-ofthe-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

THE GREYHOUND ON THE TEST Set on a quintessentially English high street, the Greyhound on the Test ofers the perfect antidote to city life. The seven individually decorated bedrooms feature soothing colour palettes, extremely comfortable beds and locally produced lavender toiletries. Be sure to globalblue.com

dine at the in-house restaurant; the acclaimed menu is based on high-quality British produce which is simply prepared to bring out the ingredients’ natural favours. Breakfast is similarly impressive – the classic full English comes highly recommended.

The Greyhound on the Test, 31 High Street, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 6EY, +44 (0)1264 810833, thegreyhoundonthetest.co.uk

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PERA PALACE HOTEL JUMEIRAH Famous guests such as Agatha Christie, Greta Garbo and Alfred Hitchcock have stayed at the Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, which still captivates visitors today. Sample an Apple Fantasy tea and a Paristanbul pastry at Patisserie de Pera on the ground foor before

going up to your room in the frst lift installed in Istanbul. Be sure to visit the sumptuous Agatha Restaurant and Orient Bar, inspired

by Christie’s legacy, during your stay. The hotel’s tranquil spa is the perfect place in which to relax after a day visiting the city’s bustling bazaars and luxury malls.

Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 52, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, +90 (0)212 377 4000, jumeirah.com

PHOTO: MASSMEDIA-TV.DE

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HOTEL IM WASSERTURM

PHOTO: DAVID RALITA

Situated within a 140-year-old water tower, Hotel im Wasserturm is one of Europe’s most unusual places in which to stay. Although the hotel is located in the centre of Cologne there is a peaceful ambience throughout its 78 light and spacious rooms. French designer Andrée Putman has ensured that the building

is the centre of attention with his pared-back monochrome décor and juxtaposing of cream walls with dark wood. The lively bar and wellness area with spa and fully-equipped gym are popular with guests and local people while the spectacular roof terrace, home to La Vision restaurant, ofers panoramic views of the city’s landmarks.

Hotel im Wasserturm, Kaygasse 2, 50676 Cologne, +49 (0)221 20080, hotel-im-wasserturm.de

BANKE HOTEL One of Paris’s most characterful hotels, Banke is located within the former headquarters of a bank at the heart of the Opéra district. Guests will be impressed as soon as they enter the lobby, which is crowned with a spectacular glass cupola, while each of the 94 suites features refned décor with tones of chocolate globalblue.com

and cream. The interior strikes the perfect balance between honouring the bank’s original features and embracing contemporary design, while the extensive art collection includes works from Egyptian, Roman and Buddhist cultures.

Check into the prestigious Lafayette Suite to experience the utmost luxury.

Banke Hotel, 20 rue Lafayette, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 5533 2225, hotelbanke.com

BIBLIOTEKSGATAN 16

City Hall of Stockholm Do what Nobel Prize laureates, royalty and regular people do. Take a break and surround yourself with 18 million golden mosaic tiles, 8 million bricks and 10,000 organ pipes, plus a lot more, in one of the world’s most famous city halls.

Shop, and in the summer you can visit the tower with its fantastic view of Stockholm – The Capital of Scandinavia.

Welcome to the City Hall of Stockholm.

CITY HALL OF STOCKHOLM Hantverkargatan 1 +46 8 508 29 058 stockholm.se/cityhall

Photo: Yanan Li

G U I D E | 93

GUIDE

A GLIMPSE OF STOCKHOLM Above: Kastellholmen is one of the 14 islands that comprise Stockholm

PHOTO: XXXXXXX PHOTO: JEPPE WIKSTRÖM/MEDIABANK.VISITSTOCKHOLM.COM

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Stockholm with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best restaurants to the fnest fashion boutiques. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/stockholm.

94 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: @MAGNUSSHOTS ; @MARREFORSELL ; VERITY HOGAN

‘With almost never-ending daylight, summer is the best time to discover Stockholm’s picturesque islands’ Maritza Forsell, photographer

globalblue.com

S H O P | 95

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

96 | G U I D E

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Filippa K Master Scandinavian chic with the help of womenswear brand Filippa K. Filippa K, Biblioteksgatan 2, 111 45 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 8803, filippa-k.com featured on page 76

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Goldbar Jewellery & Design Goldbar Jewellery & Design specialises in bespoke jewellery for very important occasions.

Goldbar Jewellery & Design, Köpmangatan 16, 111 31 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 612 8058, goldbar.se featured on page 44

*

RG

JUNIBACKEN

Aesop Explore beauty brand Aesop’s first Scandinavian store.

Aesop, Jakobsbergsgatan 5-9, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 1945, aesop.com featured on page 40

GRÖNA LUND (THEME PARK)

Byredo Discover the distinctive Swedish fragrances at perfumer Byredo.

Byredo, Mäster Samuelsgatan 6, 111 44 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5250 2610, byredo.com featured on page 54

* 5

Skultuna Delve into the rich heritage of brass company Skultana.

Skultuna, Grev Turegatan 18, 114 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5458 3555, skultuna.com featured on page 70

* Tourist Information

98 | G U I D E

PRIMO CIAO CIAO

creamy burrata with aubergine, walnuts and sundried tomatoes, as well as an impressive selection of well-made pizzas. Classic pasta dishes including carbonara and sausage arrabbiata are also highlights.

Primo Ciao Ciao, Hantverkargatan 76, 112 38 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 653 9023, primociaociao.com

For an alternative to cinnamon buns and open sandwiches, pay a visit to Primo Ciao Ciao Italian restaurant. It has several branches located throughout the city, all serving fresh and authentic Italian cuisine.

Expect appetite-whetting antipasti such as

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MISS VOON Miss Voon restaurant specialises in Asian favours which guests can experience through a menu of small plates. There’s a great selection of meat, fsh and vegetarian dishes, from lobster tacos with pineapple, to pork belly buns with kimchi and cucumber; three to four dishes are recommended for dinner. Seafood lovers should head to the

sashimi bar where options include king scallops, yellowtail and wild prawns. There’s also an impressive cocktail list which features Asian ingredients, such as the Stranger in Moscow which is made with sake, vodka, ginger, apple, cardamom and lemon.

Miss Voon, Sturegatan 22, 114 36 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5052 4470, missvoon.se

ER JA RL SG

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3● CARLINGS ●

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globalblue.com

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100 | G U I D E

Drottninggatan North ● JOHANNAS GARDEROB ● SMYCKES VERKSTADEN ● PÄLS

G ATAN

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SANN DESIGN ● JUVELERARE DAVID HARPER ● BRUD OCH FEST ● SHOCK ●

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Drottninggatan South

GAMLA BROGATAN

● PISTILL ● TAJ MAHAL

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INDISKA ● DIN SKO ● STADIUM ● INTERSPORT ● CLAS OHLSON ● BROTHERS ● KAPPAHL ● H&M ●

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MANHATTAN ● JOY ● LINDEX ● THE BODY SHOP ● BUTTERICKS ● JC ● SCORETT ●

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Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre

Department Store

102 | G U I D E

BOGGI Menswear brand Boggi is synonymous with quality and Italian sartorial fair. This summer’s collection mixes sharp tailoring and luxury fabrics with a laid-back aesthetic.

Blue is the colour of the season for the Boggi man and the collection is full of variations on the hue, including plenty of light, dusty shades. Italian tailoring-inspired suits feature micro- and macro-overcheck patterns as well as three-button jackets with a concealed third button, a signature of high-quality Neapolitan tailoring.

Boggi, Sturegatan 10, 114 36 Stockholm, boggi.it

Humlegårdsgatan & Sturegatan HU

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7forallmankind.com

STOCKHOLM - Birger Jarlsgatan 17A

104 | G U I D E

Bibliotekstan Sturegallerian Mall STUREPLAN

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Global Blue Retailer

● THE CASE FACTORY HÄLSOKOST ● ÖRTAGUBBE NS

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Sports and sports fashion.

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We know everybody loves sports – all you have to do is fnd a sport to suit you. That’s why we always offer top sports and sports fashion brands at affordable prices. Visit the biggest sports chain in Scandinavia – life is more fun with a bit of get up and go! www.stadium.se

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GUNILLA ANNWALL KONST & PRESENT ●

● KONSTEXPO ● CASTOR ANNIKA BERTILSDOTTER ● GULDSMED ● GALLERI HG

NSGA TA N

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BANG & OLUFSEN

ESTERS SHOWROOM ●

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When it comes to sound, Danish audio expert Bang & Olufsen knows its stuf.

The company not only creates some of the best-quality headphones and home audio systems in the world, but also prides itself on pushing the boundaries of premium sound. It’s no surprise, then, that Bang & Olufsen has launched the world’s frst high-end, compact wireless speakers. The new BeoLab 17 speakers, most recently reinvented in a matte black fnish, are beautifully minimalist, crafted from a single piece of extruded aluminium. With their Bluetooth wireless connectivity they can be used throughout your home, ensuring you are surrounded by premium sounds whatever you’re doing.

Bang & Olufsen, Sturegallerian, Grev Turegatan 11A, 11446 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 611 6030, bang-olufsen.com

Home of Swedish design Look for your closest store at designtorget.se or shop on-line.

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Götgatan GÖTGATAN

K&US ● M-ZONE ●

Sankt Paulsgatan, Hökens Gata & Högbergsgatan

H Ö K EN S G ATA

POCKET SHOP ●

GÖTGATAN

ÅSÖGATAN

HEMTEX ●

GÖTGATAN

BARNBUTIKEN ●

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REFERENCE AUDIO SÖDER BOKHANDEL LJUNG MANGLE VINTAGE HATTBAREN GULDSMEDJAN

● BOLIA

● ● ● ●

KOCKSGATAN

DUXIANA O&D SPORT ELEGANZ STHLM GALLERI HANTVERKET

ÅSÖGATAN ● MIXAGE

Skrapan ● SÖDEROPTIKEN

Global Blue Retailer

HÖGBERGSGATAN

● BYGGFABRIKEN

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FOLKUNGAGATAN ELECTROLUX HOME ● JOHN PELLE SPORT ● SMART EYES ● DRESSMANN● DETAILS ●

HÖGBERGSGATAN

HÖGBERGSGATAN

HÖGBERGSGATAN MARITZA ● GÖTGATAN 42 ● GUDRUN SJÖDÉN ● DEZZO ● MARIE JO ● HOUSE OF WATCHES ●

GRANIT PRESS STOP DESIGNTORGET FACE STOCKHOLM

MARITZA ●

● ● ● ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

MADE IN STOCKHOLM Sweden is known worldwide for its contemporary design, but it also values traditional crafts. The Made in Stockholm store, located in the old town, showcases locally made pieces.

Expect to fnd glassware and silverware, pottery, silk and lambskin items. The owners, silversmith Tommy Berggren and glassblowers Emma Bergström and Cecilia Boström, all have workshops on the island of Fjäderholmarna, which members of the public are welcome to visit during the summer.

Made in Stockholm, Västerlånggatan 58, Stockholm 111 29, +46 (0)8 411 4607, madeinstockholm.nu

Shopping Centre

Ö STGÖTAGATA N

SVARTEN SG ATA N

Brunogallerian ● MÄSSINGMÄSTER

ADD NATURE ●

MONKI WEEKDAY APLACE GÖTGATSBACKENS HÄLSOKOST FILIPPA K PHARMACY

SKIVHÖGEN ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

POPLIN ● STYLEIN ●

● GLITTER

H Ö K E N S G ATA ● KRISTALLRUMMET

● BELLE SHOES

GÖTGATAN

● THE BODY SHOP

GÖTGATAN

LUSH ● G26 ● SYNOPTIK ● IITTALA ● GÖTA UR & SMYCKEN ● BON SHOE ● TSHIRT STORE ● GINA TRICOT ● ORDNING & REDA ● CARLINGS ● BIK BOK ●

● FACE STOCKHOLM

SANKT PAULSGATAN

● J.LINDEBERG

● MAKE UP STORE ● FRÖKEN SÖT ● TWIST & TANGO

SANKT PAULSGATAN

● K&US

● MÄSSINGMÄSTER ● SHIRT FACTORY

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 111

MONKI Encapsulating eclectic Scandinavian style like no one else, Monki’s womenswear collections are always fashion forward and fun. The spring/summer 2015 range combines the brand’s signature cool and kooky aesthetic with athletic and streetwear elements. Expect metallic details, scuba fabrics and boxy silhouettes alongside fuorescent touches and eye-catching, graphic prints.

Monki, Götgatan 19, 116 46 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 640 0841, monki.com

Östgötagatan, Södermannagatan, Nytorgsgatan & Renstiernas Gata ● BABER & BOOKS

● ITIK DESIGN

Non-Global Blue Retailer

KOCKSGATAN MANOS ● LARSSON FURNITURE ●

Å S Ö G ATA N

● 6/5/4 PHARMACY ●

R ENSTIER NA S GATA

BONDEGATAN

KRUKMAKERI ANN JUNSJÖ ● ● BENGANS.SE DARLING ●

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ACNE ● MINI RODINI ● SHOESCAPE ● VICTORIA ● SILVIA INREDNINGAR ●

FRU LOTTA ●

SÖ DER M A NNAGATA N

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● NINA STOCKHOLM

NYTORG S GATAN

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● KING LILY

SMILEY VINTAGE ● GALLERI AXEL ● THESEGO TO 11 ●

R ENSTIER N A S G ATA

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4SOUND ●

N Y T O R G S G ATA N

● SOFO'R PETS

DUSTY DECO ●

FOLKUNGAGATAN

S Ö DER MA N N AGATA N

ÖSTGÖTAGATAN

CHILD ● ANTIKVARIAT HUNDÖRAT ●

SMINK OCH ● MASKERADBUTIKEN ● GUITAR PEOPLE

● WILD HEART

BONDEGATAN ● ● ● ●

● V AVENUE SHOE REPAIR COCTAIL DELUXE APPARTEMENT AN IDEAL FOR LIVING STOCKHOLM GRANDPA

SKÅN EG ATAN ● TUA SKINNKLÄDER

112 | G U I D E

Folkungagatan

● HÄSTBITEN

Kocksgatan FOLKUNGAGATAN

Å S Ö GATA N

ROLFS KÖK Valuing honest, good-quality food, Rolfs Kök, headed up Johan Jureskog and Johan Andersson, invites guests to see the creation of each plate of food in its completely open kitchen. The seasonally focused menu comprises simple but expertly made dishes such as cod liver with capers, browned butter and lemon, and pork conft with cabbage, beer-braised onions and roasted garlic.

Rolfs Kök, Tegnérgatan 41, 111 61 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 101696, rolfskok.se

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Bar

R ENSTIERN AS GATA

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● MARLO MARKET

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P.114

● MARIMEKKO

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Nytorget 6

● NORDLINGS ANTIK

SÖDERMANN AG ATA N

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Harves t Home

● PICOK ● SARA CLAUSIN

● LISA LARSSON ● TIME OUT ● FRED PERRY ● DR DENIM ● SÖDRA SLOTTSKAMMAREN

NYTORGS G ATA N

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CISSI OCH SELMA ●

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R ENSTIER NA S G ATA

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SÖ DERMA N NAGATAN ● BEYOND RETRO ● GOECKER

● PIT STOP

● REGN

● AYNI ● STUTTERHEIM ● UNI

● KONST-IG

● SNEAKERSNSTUFF

● ADESSO

ÖSTGÖTAG ATAN STALANDS MÖBLER ●

BONDEGATAN

● WAMLINGBOLAGET

BONDEGATAN

BONDEGATAN

SKÅNEGATA N Snoty Sound Bar

Oxelblom

● DE PONTES

● THE LOCAL FIRM ● EL-SERVICE ● KLAUN ● JUNO ● FADE RECORDS ● RACKARUNGAR ● KUNIGUNDA

SKÅNEG ATAN

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Å S Ö GATA N

ÅSÖGATAN ÅSÖGATAN

Å S Ö GATA N

ÅSÖG ATA N ÅSÖGATAN

KOCKSGATAN KOCKSGATAN KOCKSGATAN

BONDEGATAN

● INNEBOENDE

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S H O P | 113

Åsögatan

Bondegatan

Katarina Bangata & Skånegatan

114 | G U I D E

MY CITY: LEILA LINDHOLM TV presenter and cookery book author and publisher, Leila Lindholm is the owner and designer of Leila’s General Store, a concept shop that ofers a great array of stylish kitchenware, from amazing gadgets to handmade tools and beautiful textiles. She shares her Stockholm address book with Isabella Redmond Styles

‘My favourite area would have to be Djurgården. It’s an island in central Stockholm, and a very green area of the city.

It has lots of great restaurants, museums and galleries so there are plenty of things to enjoy.

On my days of I love to head there as it’s a beautiful place to stroll around and my kids love it, too.

‘However, it’s not really a great place for shopping; it’s more of an area for picnics or having a long lunch. My favourite district for shopping is the centre of Stockholm. Mood shopping centre, where my store is based, and the streets around are particularly good.

‘I would say that the most underrated pastime in the city is sitting outside people watching with a glass of wine or cofee in

hand. Swedish people are very stylish and it’s interesting to see the diferent street fashions.

I’m most likely to be found doing this at the café at Rosendals Trädgård, which is a beautiful garden with a café and shop.

During the summer, it’s great to come with a picnic blanket and relax in the orchard.

‘One of my other favourite cafés is Urban Deli * p.113 in Södermalm. I usually go there for breakfast when I’m at my Stockholm apartment. The food is good and there’s a great atmosphere. Nytorget 6 * p.113, just along the road, is also a lovely breakfast spot - it’s very charming. Both of these cafés are very hip right now. The restaurants and cafés in Mood are also very appealing: there is a Spanish restaurant,

Above (clockwise from lef): Rosendals Trädgård; Södermalm; Skeppsholmen; burger at Phil’s Burger; natural produce at Urban Deli

PHOTO (PROFILE): WOLFGANG KLEINSCHMIDTH

PHOTO: JEPPE WIKSTROM/MEDIABANK.VISITSTOCKHOLM.COM

leila.se

Bouqeria; there are Asian restaurants; and there are places serving traditional Scandinavian food such as smørrebrød Danish open sandwiches.

‘When I have friends visiting, I take them to Mariefred, the little town where I live. It’s very colourful and picturesque. As Stockholm is a city of islands, I also take them for a boat ride in the archipelago. A stroll along any area of the waterside in Stockholm is always beautiful, too, and it’s also a great idea to rent a bike as the city is very cycle friendly.

‘Skeppsholmen is another small island in the city that is lovely to walk around. There is a modern art museum with a great shop and there are lots of good restaurants.

‘I always recommend that visitors stay in either the Lydmar Hotel or the Story Hotel * p.104. The dining room at the Lydmar is beautiful and has wonderful views.

‘The view of Stockholm from Södermalm is my favourite outlook in the city. There are plenty of viewing points on the island and as there are hills there, you can look down on the city.

‘There’s also a fantastic sushi place in Södermalm that is little more than a hole in the wall. It’s next to Medborgarplatsen underground station, it’s called Akki Sushi, and the sushi is really authentic. Another of my local discoveries is a great place called Phil’s Burger. I love burgers so it’s always good to fnd a new place making them well.’

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

PHOTO: STAFFAN ELIASSON/MEDIABANK.VISITSTOCKHOLM.COM

PHOTO: HENRIK TRYGG/MEDIABANK.VISITSTOCKHOLM.COM

PHOTO: JEPPE WIKSTROM /MEDIABANK.VISITSTOCKHOLM.COM

G U I D E | 115

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Stockholm Arlanda airport Terminal 5, landside, next to information desk Göteborg Landeveter Airport Information Desk, Departure Hall Malmö Sturup Airport Exchange, Departure Hall St Peterline Princess Anastasia information desk Haparanda Gränsresor 125 /

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©® NOB E LSTI FTE LSE N

Te Nobel Prize Te Nobel Laureates Alfred Nobel

FOTO : HANS NILSSON

Visit the museum shop FOTO : HANS NILSSON

Literature, science toys, chocolate medals

Stortorget 2, Old Town, Stockholm. Subway: Gamla stan. Buses: 2, 3, 43, 53, 55, 71 and 76. www.nobelmuseum.se

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 54: Perfect Scents

PHOTO: MELKER DAHLSTRAND/IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE

Идеальный Аромат

Основными составляющими изысканных шведских ароматов являются исключительно натуральные ингредиенты и традиционный скандинавский минимализм, – рассказывает Кэти Янг Когда речь заходит об элегантных парфюмах, вряд ли кому-то на ум придут скандинавские бренды, хотя в Швеции было создано немало роскошных ароматов, пользующихся большой популярностью во многих странах мира. Местные бренды, специализирующиеся в основном на свежих композициях из натуральных компонентов, составляют неплохую конкуренцию своим globalblue.com

европейским партнерам. Компания Orifame появилась 47 лет назад в небольшом стокгольмском офисе. Братья Роберт и Йонас аф Йохник мечтали познакомить мир со шведским стилем жизни и свежими натуральными ароматами. Косметическая марка, название для которой было взято из средневекового королевского знамени Франции, предлагает 216 ароматов для мужчин и женщин в 60 странах мира, а ежегодный оборот компании на сегодняшний день составляет 1,5 миллиарда евро. Без учета концептуального магазина в Стокгольме, компания насчитывает 3 миллиона сотрудников, торгующих продукцией вразнос. По словам генерального директора компании Магнуса Бренштрёма, такой нестандартный подход был обусловлен тем, что в 1960-х годах покупательницам было намного комфортнее выбирать необходимый товар у себя дома, нежели у прилавка перед лицом шикарных продавщиц. Еще одним секретом успеха компании являются первоклассные специалисты. Так, разработкой ароматов Orifame занимаются две звезды парфюмерного мира – Жан Жакуй и Францис Куркджиян, в послужной список которых входят такие марки, как Elie Saab, Burberry и Givenchy. Сегодня духи Orifame представлены соблазнительной серией ароматов, включающих нотки черной розы, янтаря, жасмина и пачули, а также свежие ароматы базилика, ванильной орхидеи и цветов апельсина.

Byredo – еще один шведский парфюмерный бренд, основанный в 2006 году, чья продукция производится исключительно на территории Швеции. Основатель компании Бен Горхам провел большую часть своей жизни в Канаде, однако сейчас он живет в Стокгольме и его творения насквозь пронизаны шведской гармонией. «Образ Byredo отражает эстетику скандинавского дизайна, а именно – любовь к лаконичности и минимализму, –

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поясняет он. – Наши духи не перенасыщены деталями и вы можете различить отдельные ингредиенты, что для меня очень важно. Для творческого процесса большую роль играет окружающая атмосфера, поэтому для парфюмера важно, где он живет и работает». «Шведы предпочитают большие структуры и формы, и в своем творчестве я склоняюсь к осмысленной простоте, – говорит Горхам. – Мне нравится, когда ноты имеют пространство, а композиция передается ясно и выразительно. Когда речь идет о сильных ингредиентах, то здесь действует принцип „лучше меньше да лучше“». В последнее время Горхам начал уделять все больше внимания шведским ингредиентам, таким как дудник лесной и брусника. Аромат «1996», вдохновленный фотоработами Инес ван Ламсвеерде и Виноодх Матадин, содержит характерный лаконичный букет из можжевеловых ягод, кожи и черного янтаря. Создатели бренда Agonist Никлас и Кристин Лидеен считают, что их коллекция из семи роскошных ароматов многим обязана шведской культуре. «Наше трудолюбие и внимание к деталям – это очень по-шведски, – говорит Никлас Лидеен. – Гуманный и экологичный подход к производству также воплощает шведский стиль жизни. Образ нашего бренда навеян лирической красотой шведской природы и культуры: это и смена времен года, и зимняя стужа, порывистые ветры и солнечное лето, поэмы Карин Бойе и образы Ингмара Бергмана». Результатом их труда стала коллекция нежных и выразительных ароматов, таких как Arctic Jade, Isis и Vanilla Marble. Шведские парфюмерные бренды, начиная от легких цветочных ароматов Byredo и заканчивая пряными композициями Agonist, помогают стране заявить о себе на международной арене. «Мир изысканных ароматов стал более открытым в последнее время, – поясняет Горхам. – Страны с менее развитой парфюмерной промышленностью, чем во Франции и Италии сегодня наполняют индустрию новым, ранее не замеченным смыслом». orifame.com, byredo.com, agonistparfums.com globalblue.com

62: Pure and Simple

Роскошь По-Скандинавски Чистые линии и изысканные силуэты творений Stylein являются воплощением скандинавской эстетики. Салли МакИлхоун встретилась с дизайнером и основателем марки – Элин Алемдар Если дело касается чувства стиля, то, похоже, что шведским женщинам удается всегда оставаться на шаг впереди остальных. С завидной легкостью они сочетают платья и спортивную обувь, а их гардеробы по-минималистски изящны и практичны. Вместо сотни ненужных вещей в ход идут дорогие, но качественные и многофункциональные модели. Именно такой подход воплощает роскошный шведский бренд Stylein под руководством дизайнера Блин Алемдар. Госпожа Алемдар начала свою карьеру в индустрии моды еще в 2001 году и с тех пор была неоднократным свидетелем успеха шведской эстетики, обратившей на себя внимание специалистов моды по всему миру. «Я стала принимать участие в Парижских Неделях моды и восемь лет назад я увидела огромный интерес к нашим работам со стороны азиатских стран, – говорит Алемдар, – теперь же шведский стиль завоевал популярность во всем мире, причем это касается не только одежды, но и стиля жизни. Почему так случилось сказать сложно. Если постоянно крутиться на месте, то новых перспектив не появится. Успех порождает новый успех, потому бренды привлекающие внимание мировой общественности к шведской моде, так как это делает Acne, оказывают стране неоценимую помощь». Экспансия скандинавского стиля определенно только на руку Stylein, но в отличие от таких модных гигантов, как Acne, компания специализируется на непринужденных, изысканных силуэтах. «Во многих случаях простота смотрится лучшего всего, однако достичь ее бывает не так просто. Некоторые считают, что создать простой дизайн ничего не стоит, однако все

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наоборот», – считает Алемдар. Стремление дизайнеров Stylein к обтекаемым формам позволило бренду стать одним из ведущих производителей классических вещей, которые как нельзя лучше соответствуют экономичному образу мышления, присущему шведам. «Долгосрочное инвестирование в универсальные вещи явилось реакцией на культуру массового потребления, скоротечные тенденции и одноразовую моду, – говорит Алемдар. – Одной из ключевых концепций марки Stylein всегда была ценность одежды, а также ее долговечность и универсальность. Именно поэтому мы стремимся к простому дизайну, который впоследствии дополняется аксессуарами, макияжем и конечно вашей индивидуальностью». Даже не смотря на абсолютную приверженность простоте, остается большая вероятность поддаться искушению ультрасовременных трендов, графических принтов и пронзительных красок. К счастью марка Stylein осталась верна своей философии. «Для меня вера в нашу ключевую эстетику всегда имела первостепенную важность, – говорит Алемдар. – Чтобы прийти к такому пониманию я потратила не один год. Раньше, когда после шоу-показа мне говорили: “Да, это был типичный Stylein”, я считала это негативной оценкой, но сейчас я понимаю, что все как раз наоборот». Это не означает, что компания застряла на одном месте. Коллекция весналето 2015 содержит много намеков на принты, текстуры и металл для усиления общей эстетики и придания ей нового направления. «Конечно, нам приходится многое пересматривать, но при этом мы стараемся придерживаться концепции Stylein». Несмотря на то, что дизайнер предана шведской эстетике, это не мешает ей черпать вдохновение в Нью-Йорке, где она училась и основала свою марку 14 лет назад. «НьюЙорк помог мне понять, чем я должна заниматься в жизни, а именно – основать линию роскошной скандинавской одежды, globalblue.com

– говорит Алемдар. – В Нью-Йорке все становится возможным. Большое влияние на меня оказала не столько местный стиль, сколько популярный девиз – “Давайте пробовать, рисковать и быть смелыми”». За 14 лет работы в индустрии моды дизайнер неоднократно рисковала, одерживая в результате триумфальные победы. Тем не менее, ее пыл от этого не убавился. “Видеть кого-то в одежде нашей марки для нас большое достижение, – говорит она. – В эти моменты я всегда искренне радуюсь и для меня большая честь осознавать, что человек специально стоял в очереди и платил деньги, чтобы носить наши вещи. Эта мысль до сих пор вызывает у меня приятное волнение”. Тем временем Stylein продолжает завоевывать гардеробы современных дам, а его дизайнер дарить всем роскошь и волшебство. stylein.com 70: Metal Masters

Мастера Металла

Латунная фабрика Skultuna, основанная более 400 лет назад, переживает второе рождение и осваивает современную эстетику дизайна, – рассказывает Джош Симс

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Взглянув на продукцию стокгольмского производителя предметов интерьера Skultuna, многие могут подумать, что компания открылась совсем недавно. Современные изделия бренда, сделанные из латуни и серебра, отличаются стильным минималистским дизайном и служат хорошим примером скандинавской ремесленнической традиции. К слову, компания была создана еще в 1607 году королем Швеции Карлом IX. На протяжении 400 лет компания Skultuna специализируется на латунных изделиях и является мировым лидером в своей отрасли. Первоклассное качество и оригинальный дизайн позволили компании завоевать доверие самого королевского двора. Однако прогресс не стоит на месте, и к работе над новыми коллекциями привлекаются уже не только местные мастера, но и иностранные дизайнеры. Новая серия ваз Via Fondazza, к примеру, выполнена итальянским дизайнером Паоло Дель Эльче, кроме того, бренд проводит многочисленные коллаборации с такими знаменитостями, как Томас Сандел, Улофа Кольте, Клэссон Койвисто Руне, Моника Форстер и Folkform. По словам Виктора Бломквиста, генерального директора Skultuna, изделия бренда имеют одну общую особенность, а именно – неподвластность времени. «Все дело в качестве, которое возникает благодаря мастерству обращения с металлами, – говорит он. – Изначально, скандинавские страны не могли похвастаться большими богатствами, поэтому не тратили много времени на создание излишеств и не нужных вещей. То, что в других странах делалось из золота, у нас вытачивалось из древесины и окрашивалось в серый цвет». В последние годы Skultuna пережила своего рода возрождение. Когда Бломквист присоединился к компании в 2004 году, латунь не была так популярна, и, к тому же, какое-то время Skultuna уделяла слишком много времени усложненному дизайну. Сегодня же этот материал снова вернулся в моду, и изделия Skultuna приобрели более смелую и индустриальную эстетику.

«Латунь стала довольно востребованным материалом, – поясняет Бломквист. – На данный момент у нас большое количество заказов по всему миру. Если раньше ценилась лишь отполированная сталь, то теперь люди обратили внимание на естественную красоту латуни. Это очень теплый материал с органическим качеством. Он невероятно прочен, правда нуждается в уходе». На сегодняшний день компания практически не знает себе равных в таких процессах как отливка, очистка, шлифовка и отделка латуни. По мнению Бломквиста, латунь особенно хорошо смотрится при свете свечи, именно поэтому компания продолжает выпускать изящные подсвечники. Последняя серия «London Collection» была создана под руководством ювелирного дизайнера Лары Бохинч. Что касается ювелирных украшений, то вот уже как 30 лет Skultuna удерживает лидирующую позицию среди шведских производителей запонок. Кроме того компания запустила линию аксессуаров, куда вошли кожаные браслеты итальянского дизайнера Лино Лелуззи. Ассортимент изделий Skultuna в основном представлен мелкими предметами интерьера и товарами для личного пользования, но встречаются и более крупные вещи, к примеру, люстры. Самая первая была создана для церкви Enkoping в 1619 году. И хотя компания «не перестает переосмысливать и открывать все новые и новые вещи, не желая довольствоваться успехами прошлого», с ее конвейеров ежегодно сходит около 500 классических люстр. «Мы поддерживаем сотрудничество с талантливыми дизайнерами из многих стран, и каждый год результаты продаж люстр не перестают меня удивлять», – говорит Бломквист. По его мнению, это связано с тем, что многие покупатели до сих пор предпочитают классику, а компания Skultuna, опирающаяся на свой многовековой опыт, идеально отвечает их требованиям.

Skultuna – прекрасный пример давно зарекомендовавшего себя производства,

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которое постоянно держит руку на пульсе индустрии дизайна. Так, в прошлом году серия цветочных горшков, созданная Моникой Форстер, получила престижную награду журнала Wallpaper за лучший дизайн. С последними коллекциями Skultuna поклонники могут ознакомиться в концептуальном бутике бренда, расположенном в самом центре Стокгольма. Похоже, что латунь снова в моде. skultuna.com 76: New Directions

Новое направление Дизайнеры северной Европы постепенно уходят от классического скандинавского стиля, предпочитая цвет, текстуры и стиль ретро. Верити Хоган рассказывает о трендах Недели моды в Стокгольме Скандинавская эстетика пользуется большой популярностью в Европе: у нее появились не только последователи, но и подражатели. На этом фоне Модная неделя в Стокгольме становится значительным событием стильного мира. Некоторые ее тренды возвращаются из сезона в сезон: в приглушенной цветовой палитре доминируют черный, серый и белый, неизменной остается многослойность и минимализм. Исключением не стали и показы сезона весна/лето 2015. Однако в новых коллекциях отчетливо прослеживаются совершенно новые идеи – от неожиданных текстур и женственных зауженных талий до гранжевых элементов. Стиль 1990-х вернулся в коллекции дизайнеров, работающих в самых разных стилях – от Cheap Monday до Ida Klamborn. На подиумах можно было увидеть клетчатые рубахи, навыпуск или с поясом почти на бедрах, нарочито выбеленные или протертые джинсы и юбки-фартуки поверх зауженных брюк. Сочетание юбки и брюк – вообще сквозная тема на Модной неделе в Стокгольме. Причем вариации могут быть самые разные, от плиссированного «колокола» с кожаными скинни у House of Dagmar до свободных туник поверх globalblue.com

широких брюк у Carin Wester. Это далеко не единственная неожиданная комбинация на модных показах в Стокгольме. Вместо обычной отделки, дизайнеры использовали сочетания текстур, заостряя тем самым мягкие силуэты. В целом, появилась небывалая смелость в сочетаниях. Например, в диффузной линии BACK от Ann-Sofe Back объемные пальто из грубой шерсти с плотной бахромой надевались поверх мягких узких платьев, а асимметричная кожаная юбка с запахом сочеталась с приталенными хлопковыми топами на узких бретельках. Дизайнер Карин Вестер соединила вытянутые вязаные свитера с легкими шифоновыми юбками средней длины. Черты бунтарства можно заметить практически во всем. Так, многие дизайнеры не упустили шанс подмешать в мягкую скандинавскую палитру яркие цвета. В коллекции Filippa K доминировали белый и серо-коричневый тона, и их выгодно оттеняли брызги нежного розового, а все вариации серого оказались пикантно подчеркнуты цитрусовыми акцентами. В весенней коллекции Whyred также преобладают чистые цвета. Ориентиром послужило творчество немецкого художника-коллажиста Курта Швиттерса, поэтому яркие дополнения характерны для большинства комплектов, будь то металлические ткани в воротниках и манжетах или вставки насыщенного красного и синего на пиджаках. Вместе со столь актуальным подходом к цветовой палитре, многие образы на подиумах Модной недели Стокгольма оказались неожиданно традиционными и женственными. Силуэты с зауженной талией есть почти в каждой коллекции: у Carin Wester – классические, а у молодого дуэта AltewaiSaome – альтернативные вариации. В частности, тренчи с поясом и комбинезоны с пряжками Carin Wester демонстрируют весьма спокойную трактовку этой тенденции. А AltewaiSaome повязал пояса-ленты на шелковые платья и топы с запахом, а также ремни контрастных

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цветов, красного и коричневого, на пальто бежевого и серого оттенков. Дизайнер Ида Кламборн закрывала Неделю моды показом своей коллекции, которая вобрала в себя почти все ее главные тренды. Хаки, неоновый розовый и оранжевый цвета разнообразили преобладающую монохромную палитру. К мягким, полупрозрачным тканям дизайнер добавила утяжеляющие блестки. А укороченные топы и перекрывающие друг друга полы одежды подчеркивали зауженную талию силуэтов. «Я всегда нацелена на поиск баланса между цветом, формой и текстурой, - объясняет Кламборн.

– В коллекции весна/лето 2015 я развиваю тему удлиненных и свободных силуэтов с помощью неопрена, шелка и денима». Кламборн оказалась одной из немногих на этой Модной неделе в Стокгольме, кто добавил принт на юбках до колена, текстурированных полах легких свитшотов и объемных туниках. «Я сделала весьма характерный принт – оранжевые и розовые лилии, нарисованную распылением, - комментирует дизайнер. – Эта идея пришла мне в голову, когда я увидела, как жители Стокгольма рисовали на улицах цветы, чтобы закрасить ксенофобские надписи на зданиях города. Эти цветы символизировали способность демонстрировать несогласие и реагировать через создание чего-то красивого». В то же время почти все коллекции, представленные на Модной неделе в Стокгольме, так или иначе, отражают стиль, который модное сообщество считает скандинавским. Бренд Fillipa K представил облегающие модели, где для большей плотности используется драпировка и складки. Карин Вестер вдохновлялась Дальним Востоком, поэтому для ее современной минималистской коллекции характерны простые линии и легкие конструкции. Сохранив доказавшую свою успешность эстетику скандинавского стиля, шведские дизайнеры открыли новое поле для экспериментов. И это сделало Модную неделю в Стокгольме одним из самых

интересных событий в европейском стильном календаре. В основе каждой коллекции – по-прежнему шведская классика. Но теперь дизайнерам все больше хочется сочетать эту традицию с более смелыми решениями. А таким результатом, эта игра, определенно, стоит свеч. fashionweek.se, annsofeback.com, carinwester.com, flippa-k.com, whyred.se, altewaisaome.com, idaklamborn.se 116: When you shop the world, shop tax free

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54: Perfect Scents 完美香氛 瑞典香水品牌充分运用该国的丰富自然资源与极 简主义美学，制造出引人入胜的清新香氛。Katy Young带您领略

PHOTO: MIKAEL GÖTHAGE

谈到高级香氛，瑞典或许并非人们首先想到的国 家。然而该国已诞生了一系列获得国际关注与盛赞 的奢华香氛品牌。这些专注于制造清新香氛，并多 采用天然成分的品牌，为人们提供与来自欧洲其他 地区的浓郁配方截然不同的选择。 47年前，Orifame诞生于斯德哥尔摩的一处 两间房的办公室中。Robert与Jonas af Jochnick 兄弟创立了该品牌，期望将瑞典洁净的生活方式 与清新天然的香氛带到世界的其他角落。该品牌 因法国中世纪王室旗帜得名，产品涵盖216款男用 与女用香水，年营业额15亿欧元并在60个国家有 售。除了位于斯德哥尔摩的概念店，公司还雇佣了 多达300万人的上门推销团队。采用这种销售方法 的原因，据Orifame的首席执行官与总裁Magnus Brännström指出，是因为在1960年代消费者们觉 得在家挑选产品，要比前往美容店铺与漂亮女销售

globalblue.com

接触更为轻松愉悦。 公司成功的另一个重要因素是核心团队的高素 质。公司产品的幕后功臣是两位举世无双的当代调 香师——Jean Jacques与Francis Kurkdjian—— 他们同时也为国际知名品牌Elie Sabb、Burberry 与Givenchy等调制香水。 今日，Orifame的香氛 产品包括使用黑玫瑰、琥珀、茉莉和广藿香调制的 撩人混合香调，以及用绿罗勒、香草兰花与橙花等 调制出的清新配方。 Byredo是另一个瑞典香水领军品牌：公司成 立于2006年，产品全部在瑞典制造。品牌的创始人 Ben Gorham早年成长于加拿大，但如今已迁居斯 德哥尔摩，他的香水也是完全瑞典式的。 “Byredo 的精神与外观体现了斯堪的纳维亚式的设计美 学——对于朴素极简主义的热爱， ”他解释道。 “我 们的香水并不纷乱，你可以清晰辨别出成分，这点 对我很重要。一个人周遭的环境对其创作过程非常 重要——香水制造商永远都会受到环境的影响。” “瑞典人喜爱良好的结构性与形态，我也认 同从个人审美而言偏好简单， ”Gorham 表示。 “我 喜欢那些留有空间让香水概念得以清晰传播的香 调。对于高品质的原料而言，单纯一定比复杂好。” Gorham最近开始在Byredo香氛中使用更多瑞典 原料，例如野生当归和越橘。1996香水的灵感来自 于Inez van Lamsweerde与Vinoodh Matadin 拍摄的一张相片中的年轻女孩，以冰杜松子为主 香调，配以皮革与黑琥珀气味，是一款典型的简约 配方。 Agonist品牌的幕后推手Niclas与Christine Lydeen夫妇，坚信他们七款高级香水产品的诞生 很大程度上归功于瑞典文化和遗产。 “我们孜孜不倦 地追求细节，这是非常瑞典式的工作方法， ”Niklas Lydeen 表示。 “对于人性以及可持续发展的关注， 同样来自于我们的瑞典根基。品牌带给人们的感 觉与主基调来源于如诗如画的瑞典自然风光与文 化：季节的变换、冰冷漆黑的冬天与夏日的美丽光 线，Karin Boye的诗歌，Ingmar Bergman的影像 等等。”这一切造就出一款款听上去让人浮想联翩 的香氛作品，例如“北极翡翠” （Arctic Jade）、Isis 与“香草大理石” （Vanilla Marble）等。 从 Byredo的清新花香到Orifame的异域辛辣 及 Agonist的手工配方，一系列瑞典品牌正帮助该 国在国际香氛界留下自己的印记。 “高级香氛的世界 在过去几年变得越发开放， ”Gorham解释道。 “那 些并不拥有法国或意大利那样悠久制香史与香氛 文化的国家，正不断改进产品并将新的精神带入这 个行业。” orifame.com, byredo.com, agonistparfums.com

PHOTO: DENNIS WERNERSSON

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62: Pure and Simple 简单而纯粹 简洁的线条和精致的轮廓，Stylein 的身上集中 体现了北欧美学。本期，Sally McIlhone将对话 Stylein品牌设计师和创始人 Elin Alemdar 在时尚方面，瑞典女人似乎总能够先人一步。她们可 以将礼服和运动鞋搭配得恰到好处,她们的衣橱里 洋溢着简约实用的味道：扔掉冗杂，转投高品质、多 功能的单品。由设计师 Elin Alemdar打造的瑞典 高端品牌Stylein反映了这一趋势，骄傲地占据了许 多北欧衣橱。 Alemdar自2001年起就开始在时尚行业工作， 在此期间她见证了国际风尚界越来越接受瑞典美 学。 “八年前我开始参加巴黎时装周展销会，发现许 多亚洲国家对此非常感兴趣， ”Alemdar 解释说。 “ 现在瑞典的潮流趋势蜂拥至全世界，无论在时尚方 面还在生活方式上。为什么会这样真的很难解释， 因为一旦你躲在自己的小圈子里，你真的很难洞见 到这一切。成功会带来新的成功，比如说 Acne这 样成功吸引世界聚焦瑞典时尚的品牌对我们大有 裨益。”

Stylein 显然是在北欧风尚大潮中获益的品牌 之一，但是不同于标杆性的时尚巨头Acne，Stylein 更着力于削减的背部和精致而有型的轮廓。 “有的 时候简洁就是最好的，但这也是最难去设计的。人 们可能会觉得设计简洁的风格很简单，但事实上却 恰恰相反， ”Alemdar 说。 正是这种致力于精简风格的承诺让Stylein成 为了经典衣橱主打单品的顶级品牌，这也完全符合 瑞典对环保生活和生态问题的偏爱。 “买一件可以 适用于不同场合的衣服是一项长期投资，这是对大 众消费、快销潮流和一次性时尚的反击， ”Alemdar 继续说。 “Stylein一直专注于这样的一个理念，一 件衣服是一样宝贵的东西，你应该可以以各种方式 穿很长时间。这就是为什么我们喜欢简单的设计： 你可以加入自己的配饰、妆容甚至仅仅只是自己的 个性，来搭配整体的服装。” 即便对简洁有着如此坚定的承诺，有时候也 很容易被风靡的图形印花和华彩配色的潮流趋势 所左右。值得庆幸的是，Stylein一直坚守着自己的 理念。 “有的时候坚信我们所秉持的核心美学观非 常重要。坚持自己的道路，而不是仅仅因为市场的 需求就偏离这条道路， ”Alemdar 说。 “我花了好几 年的时间才明白这一点。在过去，一场时装秀结束 后如果我收到的反馈是‘噢，你可以看出来那就是 Stylein’ ，我觉得这基本上是一个负面的评价，但现 在我明白了这其实是积极的。” 但这并不是说这个品牌就是固守陈规。它的 2015年春夏季系列包含了印花、纹理和金属的元 素，不过这些都被巧妙地应用于提升整体美感，并 将品牌引入一个新的方向。 “我们当然需要改造自 己，但改造的范围是在Stylein的世界里。” 虽然在很大程度上 Alemdar 是受到了瑞典设 计美学的影响，她也在纽约找到了灵感，14年以前 她在这里学习并推出了自己的产品线。 “纽约这样 的地方会让我意识到我想要从事的工作，然后就有 了这个北欧奢侈品产品线， ”Alemdar 说。 “在纽约 任何事情都可能发生，从某种程度上来说这比我自 己的文化对我的影响更大。也许这并不是美学观， 而是一种‘让我们尝试一下，让我们不顾一切勇敢面 对’的感觉。” 在时尚行业摸爬滚打14年，冒过险也收获过回 报，很多人可能会觉得一个设计师的激情开始消磨 殆尽。但是对于Alemdar来说这样的时刻还没有到 来。 “看到有人穿我们的设计仍然非常有成就感， ” 她说。 “我仍然会在我的脑海里跳胜利之舞，因为 我很感激有人愿意排队为我们的特别设计付钱。一 想到这就让人非常兴奋。”随着Stylein持续主导瑞 典和世界各地的衣橱，很显然Alemdar在接下来的 几年还会跳她的胜利之舞。 stylein.com

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70: Metal Masters 金属大师 创立于400多年以前的传统制铜公司Skultuna通过 应用一种全新的现代主义设计美学，正经历着一场 复兴。Josh Sims报道 当人们看到斯德哥尔摩家居用品制造商Skultuna 的最新产品时，许多人会相信这是一家才起步的创 业企业。由黄铜或白银打制的现代器皿简洁时尚， 堪称斯堪的纳维亚设计的典范。事实上，这家公司 创立于1607年，是由当时的瑞典国王卡尔九世一手 创办的。 Skultuna在专业制铜方面拥有超过400年的经 验，现如今是铜制品塑形和饰面技术领域的世界级 领导者。做为瑞典皇室的官方供应商，这家公司不仅 扎根于历史传承，更通过和瑞典及其他国家的新锐 设计师合作，进一步发展了自身实力。其全新的Via Fondazza花瓶由意大利设计师Paolo Dell’Elce 打造；除此以外，公司还与Thomas Sandell，Olof Kolte，Claesson Koivisto Rune，Monica Förster 和 Folkform等设计方建立了合作。 根据Skultuna董事总经理Viktor Blomqvist 的说法，这些设计的共同点在于一种历久弥新的品 质。 “这种品质源于对材质的忠诚， ”他说。 “从历史 上说，斯堪的纳维亚半岛上的国家都很穷，很少会 有时间花在任何奢侈而不实用的东西上。其他地方 的人用黄金做东西，我们就用松树，然后再把它涂 成银色。” 近些年来，Skultuna正在经历一场复兴。在 Blomqvist 于2004年加入公司时，黄铜并不怎么时 髦；而且他觉得Skultuna在过去的一段时间内一直 侧重于“过于复杂”的设计。这种材料现在正重获 globalblue.com

新生，而Skultuna采用了一种更为原生态也更加工 业化的美学。 “黄铜已经成为了一种非常热门的材 料， ”Blomqvist解释说。 “我们正以非常快的节奏生 产黄铜制品，以适应国际市场的需求。这曾经是设计 上一个很大的禁忌——所有东西都必须由磨砂的钢 筋制成。直到最近才有所改变。黄铜最大的吸引力之 一就是它犹如黄金一般的外观。它是一种非常温暖 的材质，拥有一种纯天然、无公害的品质。它非常耐 用，但也需要保养。” 从砂型铸造到喷砂、打磨和涂刷，这家公司现在 是黄铜制品塑形和饰面技术领域的世界级领导者。 根据Blomqvist的说法，黄铜在烛光下看上去特别 好，这也是为什么公司不断推出烛台设计。其最新的 London Collection烛台系列是由珠宝设计师Lara Bohinc打造的。 在谈到珠宝首饰，30多年来Skultuna是瑞典最 大的袖扣生产商——它的Crown皇冠设计堪称经 典——它还发布了一个时尚配件产品线，其中包括 了由意大利设计师Lino Leluzzi设计的皮手镯。 虽然现在Skultuna正在为家居和个人着装生产 小型物件，它也有制作大件物品的传统，那就是吊 灯。它的第一盏吊灯是于1619年为Enkoping的一所 教堂而造的。尽管Skultuna一直小心翼翼的“重塑 本身而不是安于旧的经典” ，这家公司每年仍然会生 产大约500只吊灯。 “我们一直在扩大和热门设计团 队的合作，然而我也很惊讶每年我们会卖出去这么 多吊灯， ” Blomqvist 说。他将这归功于很多人对设 计有一种“经典”式的品位，并指出拥有悠久历史的 Skultuna非常适合去满足这种需求。 Skultuna完美诠释了一家历史悠久的公司通 过将目光聚焦于现代，吸引了全世界的目光：去年 由Monica Förster设计的Flowerpots花盆赢得了 Wallpaper的最佳产品设计奖。斯德哥尔摩的观光 客们也可以在Skultuna位于市中心的第一家概念店 亲身体验它的产品系列。 欢迎回归黄铜时代。 skultuna.com

76: New Directions 时尚新风向 在斯德哥尔摩时装周上，设计师们摒弃了传统 斯堪的纳维亚风格，引入了色彩、纹理与复古风 潮。Verity Hogan报道 随着北欧美学持续被全欧洲尊崇与效仿，斯德哥尔 摩时装周正成为时尚日历上愈加重要的大事件。在 每季都可见到相同的趋势回归：配色一般都相当沉 静，被黑色、灰色和白色主导，通常会使用多层次设 计，极简风格则统领全场。在斯德哥尔摩时装周上发

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表的2015年春夏系列依旧保留了这些特点，但同时 引入了精彩纷呈的新概念，从冲突的素材到女性化 特质，从强调腰线到借鉴邋遢摇滚风格。 1990年代的潮流回卷了秀场中每位设计师的T 型台，从Cheap Monday 到Ida Klamborn。格子 伐木工衬衫松散地披着或松垮地束在腰间。牛仔面 料经过磨破与酸洗处理，紧身裤装外套着围裙式短 裙。将裙子穿在长裤外是整个斯德哥尔摩时装周反 复出现的主题， House of Dagmar以打褶A字裙 搭配紧身皮裤，Carin Wester则将宽松罩裙叠穿在 宽腿裤外。 裙裤同穿并非是唯一不同寻常的搭配。纹理取 代装饰物为时髦廓形锦上添花，设计师们也毫不畏 惧冲突：Ann-Sofe Back的副线BACK推出了超 大尺寸的毛茸大衣，密集流苏覆盖着柔软贴身的连 衣裙，并配以磨砂皮不对称裹裙与时尚棉背心；同 时Carin Wester以磨破针织毛衣搭配漂浮感雪纺 中长裙。 在这个充满叛逆精神的时装周上，诸多设计师 趁此机会在斯堪的纳维亚柔和色系中加入斑斓色 彩。主导了Filippa K系列的冷白色与灰褐色中调入 了粉桃红色，深浅不一的灰色系则被加入璀璨明快 的柑橘色调。Whyred的2015年春夏系列同样运用 了鲜艳色块：从德国拼贴艺术家Kurt Schwitters的 作品中获取灵感，个性色彩贯穿了整个系列，从用 于领口与袖口的金属面料，到夹克上耀眼的邮筒红 与海军蓝。 虽纷纷采用摩登配色手法，本次斯德哥尔摩时 装周上的许多造型还是惊人地传统与富于女性气 息。几乎每个系列中都出现了强调腰部的设计，从 Carin Wester的经典款到新近崭露头角的设计组 合 AltewaiSaome的不同诠释。Wester的束腰带风 衣与搭扣连体服搭上了这趟风潮，AltewaiSaome的 系列则包括底部带有侧面系带的丝绸连衣裙与包裹 式上衣，连同以红色与浓重桃心木色腰带点睛的米 色与灰色大衣。 设计师Ida Klamborn以一场集结本季所有趋 势的作品发布，为时装周完美收官。她在自己的单一 色调中注入卡其绿、荧光粉与橙色；用柔软、半透明 的织物搭配厚重亮片，并以短款上装与交叉细节强 调腰部。 “在设计中，我总是试图找到色彩、形状与 材质间的平衡， ”Klamborn解释道。 “在2015年春 夏，我继续使用氯丁橡胶、丝绸与牛仔等面料，打造 修长灵动的廓形。” Klamborn也是斯德哥尔摩时装周上极少数在 作品中使用印花的设计师之一，见诸于她的及膝连 衣裙、褶皱纹理轻薄T恤与罩在长裤外量感十足的 郁金香裙。 “我根据喷绘的橙色与粉色百合创作出 一款特别的印花， ” Klamborn表示。 “当我看到斯 德哥尔摩的人们用花朵来覆盖喷绘在城市官方建筑

外墙的排外标语时，获得了这一灵感。这款喷绘印花 象征着通过制造美丽事物来采取行动、表达反对立 场的态度。” 随着叛逆精神节节胜利，斯德哥尔摩时装周上 演的每个系列都流露出被时尚界视为斯堪的纳维亚 招牌特质的痕迹。 Fillipa K推出了紧贴身体剪裁 的服饰，并使用垂坠与褶皱来增添肌理感，Carin Wester则借鉴远东风格，在自己摩登极简的系列中 使用简单线条与轻质结构。 通过保留被验证屡获成功的元素，瑞典设计师 们在斯德哥尔摩时装周为自己找到了完美的空白实 验画布，从而也将其变为欧洲时尚日历上最吸引人 的盛事之一。传统瑞典风格仍旧是每个系列的核心， 但设计师们越发倾向于以更大胆的笔触描绘传统元 素。基于其催生的杰出作品，这是值得一试的风险。 fashionweek.se, annsofeback.com, carinwester.com, flippa-k.com, whyred.se, altewaisaome.com, idaklamborn.se

116: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费SEK 200即可节约高达购买价格19%的 税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣 除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位 收取现金退税手续费。

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POSTCARD

H&M One of Sweden’s most successful fashion brands, known today for its trend-led young fashions and sell-out designer collaborations, H&M’s history dates back further than you may think. The clothing company opened in 1947 with a womenswear store in the town of Västerås, just outside of Stockholm.

Originally called Hennes, the company’s name was changed to Hennes & Mauritz in 1968, when the hunting and fshing equipment store globalblue.com

Mauritz Widforss was acquired; clothing lines for men and children were introduced in the same year. In 1974 the brand was listed on the Stockholm stock exchange and was abbreviated to H&M, as we know it today. Since then, the company has grown into a global brand with over 3,500 stores delivering the hottest fashion trends around the world. gl H&M, Hamngatan 22, 111 47 Stockholm, +46 (0)3 314 0000, hm.com * for map go to page 105

We are celebrating F. A. Lange’s 200th birthday – by devoting every minute to our watches.

F. A. Lange devoted his entire life to perfecting the mechanical watch. He invented pioneering designs and production methods and developed totally new precision measuring instruments – based, for the very first time, on the metric system. Today, we also passionately pursue the perfection of every watch down to the smallest detail – for example of the Lange 1.

Its balance spring was specially developed to match its movement and crafted at the Lange manufactory. Entirely in keeping with the ultimate in precision. www.alange-soehne.com

Biblioteksgatan 1 · Tel. 08-545 061 60 · Stockholm · www.nymansur.com

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