STUTTGART | ШТУТГАРТ | 斯图加特 |
STUTTGART Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17
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FEAST FOR THE SENSES: discover Stuttgart’s food and drink traditions
In the mood for fashion?
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.c-a.com facebook.com/ca Stuttgart: Königstraße 47 • Milaneo, Mailänder Platz 7
Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам. . .
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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا 德国指南
Германия
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this laid-back and leafy city. Stuttgart has much to ofer, as our guide on page 44 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class design will enjoy our feature on the city’s forward-looking concept stores (page 32), and in this issue we also explore the distinctive character of the local culinary scene. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Stuttgart. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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Welcome to Stuttgart
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* NG 10 % PPI L O SH ECIA SP
LIKE SHOPPING? LOVE OUTLETCITY! Enjoy an exclusive shopping experience at OUTLETCITY METZINGEN with more than 70 premium and luxury brands. Only 30 minutes away from Stuttgart the home town of Hugo Boss offers a modern urban shopping ambiance with exclusive fagship outlet stores and prize-winning architecture. And the best part is: prices are reduced by up to 70 %** throughout the year. If you are visiting from a country outside the European Union you qualify for tax-free shopping with an additional saving of up to 14.5 %. * Against presentation of this advertisement in the tourist information you will receive an exclusive shopping pass. Valid until 31/03/2017 (sales phases excluded). ** Compared to the manufacturers' former recommended retail price if there is any.
ARMANI . BALLY . BOSS . BURBERRY . COACH . DIANE VON FURSTENBERG . ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA . ESCADA . GUCCI . HACKETT . JIMMY CHOO . LORO PIANA . MAX MARA . MICHAEL KORS . MIU MIU . MISSONI . MONCLER . PORSCHE DESIGN . TOD'S . TORY BURCH and many more
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ILLUSTRATION: SARA GELFGREN
CONTRIBUTORS
Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer and creative consultant. Armed with an MA from Central Saint Martins, she began her career at GQ magazine, before heading to Europe to explore the world of horology. Today she can be found in the Swiss Alps, combining her interest in watches with skiing. globalblue.com
Milkha Lala Milkha Lala is a senior artworker at SHOP. He has studied fine art, graphic design and film and is an avid follower of all types of media. In his spare time Milkha likes to play music, visit the cinema and take photographs. When not travelling, he is likely to be found watching Mad Men or reading graphic novels.
Sara Gelfgren Sara Gelfgren created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Stuttgart. Her imaginative artwork has previously been commissioned by Google, Houzz and Greenpeace, among others. Her creative style makes her a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about Stuttgart’s traditional food and drink on page 26. It shows a table covered with mouth-watering dishes in the shape of some of the city’s best-known landmarks. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Katie Muxworthy After graduating in fashion communication and promotion Katie Muxworthy produced her own magazine and ran a successful music blog. She is now SHOP’s assistant production editor. When she’s not attending live gigs and festivals, Katie writes for a variety of online and print publications.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Sara Gelfgren Contributor Beth Druce Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
News editor Ginger Clark
Print Dane Consultancy
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak
Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Stuttgart Marketing und Tourismus GmbH, Rotebühlplatz 25, 70178 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 22280, stuttgart-tourist.de
AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany Welcome to GALERIA Kaufhof Stuttgart at Königstrasse located directly at the main station. Attractive departments filled with elegant fashion, the largest selection of lingerie in Stuttgart, sports items, children’s goods and household linen invite you to linger and browse around. We recommend a visit to our exclusive perfumery, accessories, choice jewellery watches and high-quality household goods. Enjoy our top service in an environment where shopping really a pleasure is. We accept all major credit cards. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof. We also offer the service City Refund and pay out all your German Tax Free Forms.
Free WLAN in our store!
Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Stuttgart, Königstrasse.
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
galeria-kaufhof.de
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CONTENTS Products
Experience
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Stuttgart this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
Guide 44
News 20 22
Shop Window One store not to be missed in Stuttgart News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Features 26
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Cover story: A Taste For Discovery
Stuttgart’s location in the historic region of Swabia gives a distinctive character to its culinary scene. Hannah Lewis samples the best traditional food and drink the city has to offer Modern World The leading concept stores in Stuttgart offer an expertly curated selection of beautifully designed goods with a focus on clean lines, says Beth Druce
Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Stuttgart
Essentials 53
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations 54 Русский Перевод 58 美文翻译 65 عربي
Souvenir 66
The essential item to bring home
p.32
Above: concept stores such as Hook & Eye make shopping in Stuttgart a rewarding experience
Salamander Deutschland Milaneo EKZ Mailänder Platz • 70173 Stuttgart
Salamander Deutschland Königstraße 1b
70173 Stuttgart Königstraße 45
70173 Stuttgart E-Mail: info@salamanderdeutschland.de Telefon: +49 (0) 202 / 4304380 www.salamander-online.de
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CHECK OUT
SMOOTH OPERATOR Aesop’s considered use of both plant-based and hi-tech ingredients has helped put its skin, body and haircare products on every beauty lover’s wish-list since the brand launched in Melbourne in 1987. This stylishly packaged kit contains two essentials for the perfect shave: the serum is a low-foaming calming gel designed to help the razor cut as close to the skin as possible without causing Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
irritation, while the lightweight post-shave lotion is intended to soothe, calm and protect. Both products contain natural ingredients including neroli blossom and sandalwood, and have a beautiful, exotic aroma with woody undertones. fm Aesop Moroccan Neroli shaving duet, €65, Aesop at Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 8602 0179, aesop.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
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EVERYDAY CHIC
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Bold accessories and pops of colour add a distinct edge to this easy-going look 1
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1. Gant sweater, €249.95, Peek & Cloppenburg, Königstrasse 12, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9332 9271, gant.com
3. Chanel lipstick, €35, Douglas, Königstrasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2599 8000, chanel.com
2. Boss Bespoke handbag, from €1,290, Boss, Königstrasse 19B, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 222 9444, hugoboss.com
4. Louis Vuitton earrings, from €395, Louis Vuitton, Stiftstrasse 2, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 299 1163, louisvuitton.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
5. 7 For All Mankind jeans, €260, 7 For All Mankind, Stiftstrasse 5, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2841 4454, 7forallmankind.com
PHOTO: (5) ALEX KHAMRAEV
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HIGH CONTRAST
PHOTOS: (3) JEPPE SØRENSEN; (5) SWATCH LTD.
Travel smart wherever you go with next-generation accessories
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1. Montblanc bag, €650, Montblanc, Stiftstrasse 4, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 284 1116, montblanc.com
3. BeoPlay A1 speaker, €249, Bang & Olufsen, Königstrasse 26, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 229 6807, beoplay.com
2. Rimowa Topas Stealth Electronic Tag case, €749, Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2110, rimowa.de
4. Canada Goose jacket, €400, Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2110, canadagoose.com
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5. Swatch watch, €145, Uhr24, Königstrasse 44, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 226 9015, swatch.com
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KEEP IT SLEEK Combine a subtle palette with bright accents for a sophisticated finish to your outfit
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1. Rolex watch, €7,450, Von Hofen, Königstrasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 290998, rolex.com
3. Nikon P900 camera, €539, Saturn, Königsbau Passagen, Königstrasse 26, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 120400, nikon.com
5. Hermès boots, from €990, Hermès at Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2110, hermes.com
2. Acqua di Parma Collezione Barbiere shaving cream, €54, Schlossparfümerie, Königstrasse 35, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 295605, acquadiparma.com
4. PB 0110 purse, €299, Ave, Sophienstrasse 32, 70178 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 226 5023, pb0110.de
6. Longchamp bag, €500, Longchamp, Stiftstrasse 14, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9978 9404, longchamp.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
PHOTOS: (1) ©ROLEX/CLAUDE BOSSEL; (2) JOHANSEN KRAUSE; (4) HAW-LIN SERVICES; (5) VICENTE SAHUC; (6) CHRISTOPHE PETITEAU
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WEATHER PROOF Beat the elements with hard-wearing layers in an urban look
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PHOTOS: (4) JOAKIM EKLÖF; (5) PHOTOPRESS/IWC
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1. Marc O’Polo jacket, €269.90, Marc O’Polo, Calwer Strasse 28, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 226 8600, marc-o-polo.com
3. Cos cap, €35, Cos, Königstrasse 46, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 120 4357, cosstores.com
2. Massimo Dutti boots, €99.95, Massimo Dutti, Königstrasse 21, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 252 5490, massimodutti.com
4. Marshall headphones, €150, Media Markt, Arnulf-Klett-Platz 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 228260, marshall.com
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5. IWC watch, €13,900, Kutter, Königstrasse 46, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 290460, iwc.com
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SHOP WINDOW
KEEPING IT COOL Geschwisterliebe’s imaginative mix of international and local streetwear-influenced labels, along with vintage pieces and limited editions, has turned the multi-brand store into one of Stuttgart’s fashion hotspots since it opened in 2005. Its list of brands covers everything from cool established names to emerging designers, all chosen for their distinctive aesthetic. Look out for French label Sessùn, Scandinavian favourites including Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
Wood Wood and Samsøe & Samsøe, as well as names from further afield, complemented by a selection from Germany, including Stuttgart. Besides indulging in some shopping, visitors will also be able to discover a recently launched project, Geschwisterliebe Meets Art, whereby young designers and artists are invited to showcase their work in the store itself and in its display window. gc Geschwisterliebe, Breite Strasse 4, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 253 6200, geschwisterliebeshop.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
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TIME FOR ADVENTURE
BRIGHT IDEA
The Avenger Hurricane (€7,960) is the latest addition to Breitling’s repertoire of highperformance timepieces. Its case is made from futuristic Breitlight, the Swiss watchmaker’s own high-tech material, which is more than three times lighter than titanium. Its list of properties doesn’t end there: it’s also supremely tough, scratch resistant and has a warmer feel against the skin than metal, among other things. The watch itself – designed and made to the impeccable standards for which Breitling has been known for more than a century – has a distinctive all-black exterior with accents of yellow, and the dial features stencil-effect numerals inspired by the world of aviation. dw Juwelier Thoma, Lichtentaler Strasse 5, 76530 Baden-Baden, +49 (0)7221 24406, breitling.com
For autumn/winter 2016/17, German fashion label Marc Cain has launched a line of accessories to complement its ready-to-wear offering. The first Marc Cain Bags & Shoes collection includes a range of styles, from sporty to elegant, featuring materials such as nylon, Saffiano leather and suede in a range of colours and finishes. Look out for the detachable metal bag charms, one with the brand’s initials, the other in the shape of a leopard head – the line’s signature motif, which also appears on zip pulls and belt buckles. Opt for this red leather bag (€349) to add a splash of colour to winter outfits. gc Marc Cain, Lichtentaler Strasse 3, 76530 Baden-Baden, +49 (0)7221 281 1572, marc-cain.com
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 49
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 49
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MAN OF THE MOMENT
RHAPSODY IN BLUE
A new fragrance from Salvatore Ferragamo aims to capture the characteristic traits of the quintessential Italian man: charm, confidence and style. Uomo Salvatore Ferragamo features notes of black pepper, cardamom, bergamot, orange blossom, sandalwood, tonka bean and, unusually, the classic Italian dessert tiramisu. Presented in a chic glass bottle, this woody oriental eau de toilette (100ml, €84.50) is a suitably stylish addition to Salvatore Ferragamo’s core range of fragrances for men, all of which are made in Italy to the highest standards. gc Douglas, Königstrasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2599 8000, ferragamo.com
Autumn/winter 2016/17 is Nudie Jeans’ first season under new design manager Morgan Sundberg, who joins forces with creative director Maria Erixon Levin. The collection, called When You’re Strange or Wild at Heart, takes a thoroughly contemporary approach to denim. Experimental touches such as laser printing, turned-down hems and patchwork all feature, and the Dale jumper (pictured; €129) is an example of such innovation. Denim has become a fashion staple, and the forwardthinking attitude of brands such as Nudie Jeans is sure to keep it there for some time. gc Peek & Cloppenburg, Königstrasse 12, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9332 9271, nudiejeans.com
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 47
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FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 46
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SHINE ON
IN BRIEF Furniture and interiors company Bolia has opened a store in Stuttgart, bringing its ‘New Scandinavian Design’ to the German city. With a team of more than 40 designers, Bolia prides itself on its wide range of products, from furniture to home textiles and tableware
Established in 1878, Wempe started out as a modest watchmaker’s store. Nearly 140 years later, it is now a worldwide jewellery brand, but remains a fourth-generation familyowned business. Among this season’s collection is Wempe’s haute joaillerie diamond necklace (€215,000). Made of three pear-shaped diamonds and almost 300 brilliant-cut diamonds, this stunning piece of jewellery is a masterpiece. gc Wempe, Königstrasse 41, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 223 8090, wempe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 47
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
American Heritage, which began in 2005 with a single shop in Augsburg, grew out of its founders’ passion for the rocking chairs they saw on visits to the US. It specialises in products from America, including classic baking utensils, food specialities such as barbecue sauces, and household items including furniture, cushions and scented candles. The Stuttgart store, which opened in May, is its fourth in Germany. gc American Heritage, Gerber, Sophienstrasse 21, 70178 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 6648 1095, american-heritage.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
PHOTO (TOP): MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
PHOTO: SABINE RYAN/AMERICAN HERITAGE
BEST OF THE STATES
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SIMPLY PERFECT In summer 2016, Michael Kors opened a store on Stuttgart’s Stiftstrasse. The sleek interior has been designed to echo the American label’s contemporary, luxury aesthetic, and provides a fitting backdrop for the brand’s ready-to-wear clothing, footwear and accessories. Highlights include the streamlined Mercer bag (pictured; €375) from the Michael Michael Kors line, available in several colours. gc Michael Kors, Stiftstrasse 5, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 280 4570, michaelkors.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
HIT THE ROAD Porsche Design is one of Germany’s most innovative and exciting sports and luxury lifestyle brands, and its eye-catching products are known for technical excellence as well as good looks. That’s certainly true of its new Roadster hard-case travel luggage collection. Inspired by Porsche’s iconic sports cars, the new range echoes that sporting aesthetic. Every piece is made with the highest quality materials and comes with integrated side-impact protection as standard, ensuring that your belongings are kept safe while you’re on the move. rp Porsche Design at Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2110, porsche-design.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
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A TASTE FOR
Stuttgart’s location in the historic region of Swabia gives a distinctive character to its culinary scene. Hannah Lewis samples the best traditional food and drink the city has to ofer Right: Maultaschen, stuffed pasta parcels from the region of Swabia
PHOTO: VOLKER KLENK CC BY 2.0
DISCOVERY
PHOTO: ADRIANA CC BY-NC 2.0
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Each part of Germany has its own distinctive cultural background, and Stuttgart’s place as part of the historic territory of Swabia has had a significant impact on its cuisine
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o get to the heart of a city, it’s crucial to understand its inhabitants, and what better – or more pleasurable – way to do so than by an exploration of the local culinary scene? Food is a language we all speak, and the way people eat says a lot about a place. As the capital of the German state of BadenWürttemberg, known for its cuisine, Stuttgart offers a wealth of options for the intrepid taster. Each part of Germany has its own distinctive cultural background, and Stuttgart’s place as part of the historic territory of Swabia – roughly corresponding to modern-day Baden and Württemberg – has had a significant impact. Rich and comforting, the most famous Swabian dishes are perfect for the colder months. Gaisburger marsch, a flavourful stew of beef and vegetables, is hearty and delicious; we 54 65
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recommend trying it at Ochs’n Willi on Kleiner Schlossplatz, where it comes with potato wedges and fried onions. Another classic dish on the menu is Kässpätzle, a comforting dish of cheesy noodles served with sautéed or fried onions and a real taste of Swabia. These spätzle – soft egg noodles – can be found in dishes throughout the region, and represent some of the best comfort food Stuttgart has to offer. Though Germany might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of noodles and pasta, these foods are ingrained in the culinary culture. Maultaschen, an EU-recognised ‘regional speciality’ of Swabia, is a delicacy reminiscent of Italian ravioli. Traditionally filled with meat, spinach, breadcrumbs and onions, these pasta parcels are beautifully spiced. Whether fried, lightly Above: traditional spätzle served with pork loin
dressed in butter or served in a hearty broth, these tasty parcels are sure to delight. Visit the historic Stuttgart Markthalle for a number of appetising versions. Many of Stuttgart’s traditional eateries have equally traditional settings. Zum Ackerbürger on Spreuergasse is housed in one of the city’s oldest buildings, dating from around 1550, and is loved for its freshly cooked Swabian dishes: the homemade Maultaschen in broth is delicious. On Calwer Strasse, Paulaner am Alten Postplatz serves traditional Swabian dishes in an historic building that has been stylishly updated to provide modern facilities while retaining an old-world feel. The range of Würstchen (sausages) is loved by locals; try the Wiener Würstl mit butterspätzle (smoked sausages with buttered noodles). Above (from top): Ochs’n Willi restaurant on Kleiner Schlossplatz; the historic Stuttgart Markthalle
PHOTO: JAN ZESCHKY CC BY-NC 2.0
PHOTO: MARCEL JANUS CC BY-SA 2.0
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PHOTO: WILHELM BETZ FOTOGRAFIE
PHOTO: EMILY MONTANA
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For a more contemporary experience, head to Speisemeisterei, which currently holds a Michelin star. Located in Schloss Hohenheim, the restaurant was acquired by award-winning chef Frank Oehler in 2008. The building has been renovated without losing its historic charm and, despite the modern appearance of the menu, the food is very much in the tradition of the region’s cuisine. Local, seasonal produce is favoured, with popular dishes including venison with berries and kohlrabi, or pork with blackthorn and mustard. Look out for the Stuttgart und Land menu, which draws on ingredients and inspirations from the city and its surroundings. Alongside its food, wine is another of Swabia’s most famous exports. Despite its reputation as an industrial hub, Stuttgart has a beautiful natural landscape, perfect for
Above (from top): inside Michelin-starred Speisemeisterei at Schloss Hohenheim; the restaurant’s award-winning chef, Frank Oehler
PHOTO (RIGHT): DINKELACKER-SCHWABEN BRÄU
PHOTO: WLADYSLAW SOJKA/SOJKA.PHOTO CC BY-SA 3.0
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the growing of grapes. The earliest written records of wine making in Stuttgart date from 1108, and the annual Weindorf wine festival, held in late August and early September, proves its significance today. Famous wines of the region include Trollinger, Silvaner and Spätburgunder. If it’s bubbles you’re after, Kessler Sekt is the oldest sparkling wine in Germany and is truly excellent. Wine bars abound in the city, and they are the perfect place to sample a good Swabian vintage. Der Rote Hirsch on Marktsrasse is stylish and modern, committed to sourcing its wines and food locally. On Kanalstrasse, Weinstube Zur Kiste is more traditional, its cosy rooms often packed with locals savouring the fruits of the region’s vineyards. Don’t be surprised if your wine comes in a glass with a handle: it’s the traditional German way.
Stuttgart is also famous for its beers, and visitors should look out for drinks from such famous breweries as Stuttgarter Hofbräu, Dinkelacker and Schwaben Bräu, though smaller breweries can be just as good. On Calwer Strasse, Brauhaus Calwer-Eck is renowned for its home-brewed beers and lively atmosphere. Sophie’s Brauhaus, too, has made a name for itself with home-brewed beers, which are produced seasonally. Located on Marienstrasse, this rustic yet stylish space is unique in that you are able to watch the master brewer at work. From tasty dishes to the perfect tipple to sip alongside them, Stuttgart’s culinary scene has a lot to offer today’s foodie explorers. Traditional Swabian fare is an integral part of the city’s culture, so what better excuse to tuck in?
Above (from left): Spätburgunder red grapes; Schwaben Bräu Das Naturtrübe beer
MODERN WORLD
The leading concept stores in Stuttgart ofer an expertly curated selection of beautifully designed goods with a focus on clean lines, says Beth Druce Below: furniture from Hook & Eye
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that celebrated white façades, flat roofs and open-plan living spaces. Its impact was so great that Weissenhof was subsequently regarded as central to the growth of modern architecture internationally. Almost 90 years after Weissenhof was created, Stuttgart remains just as devoted to the quest for modernity. In addition to the city library, there are the museums of Porsche and Mercedes-Benz that celebrate the streamlined style and clean-cut feel that is these brands’ DNA. And today, that same ethos is spilling out into the city’s shopping streets, as retailers seek to create the perfect cutting-edge environment
PHOTO: THOMAS HASSEL CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
he city library in Stuttgart is a stark white cube made from concrete studded with frosted glass bricks. Situated on Mailänder Platz, it is both contemporary and iconic, a minimalist yet imposing architectural statement that was intended to set the tone for the up-and-coming area in which it was built in 2011. Such a bold architectural statement is perhaps not so surprising when you consider that the city was one of the first in Germany to embrace Modernism in the shape of the Weissenhof Estate, completed in 1927. The development consisted of 21 buildings which were united by a clean, uncluttered design
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Above (clockwise from top left): Iris Wilke of Hook & Eye; a bowl from Fundamental Berlin; Stuttgart’s city library
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in which to sell their wares. On Hauptstätter Strasse, Hook & Eye combines home accessories with restored vintage pieces, and has made a huge investment in the design and feel of its store. ‘We love a mix of different materials and we like things to have a “patina” ’, comments Hook & Eye’s Iris Wilke. ‘On our concrete floor you can see the running routes of our customers.’ The store is fitted out with built-in components made from white-washed pinewood, a modular system that Hook & Eye developed in-house. ‘We love to work with bold colours, that’s why we kept the décor of the rooms white, grey and clean’,
Wilke explains. ‘Like a white canvas, it’s a perfect background for our colourful interiors.’ In addition to the team’s own restored furniture, Hook & Eye stocks many cuttingedge brands. ‘We are always looking for fresh labels, such as Fundamental Berlin, a label by young Berlin architects,’ says Wilke. ‘We like their bowls and frames, which are inspired by the mathematics of nature. Another label that we like is Pols Potten from the Netherlands, which specialises in porcelain figures including golden pineapples or big white lobsters. But we also like to mix these items with more common interiors pieces by Scandinavian
Above (clockwise from top left): a frame from Fundamental Berlin; a Pols Potten golden pineapple; a display at Hook & Eye
36 | F E AT U R E S
Above (clockwise from top left): the entrance to Fluxus ‘temporary concept mall’; a light by Madam Stoltz; Là Pour Là at Fluxus
PHOTO (RIGHT): ANDERS BEIER
PHOTO: PIERRE POLAK
PHOTO: PIERRE POLAK
The strength of these retailers lies in their investment in solid design over the glamour and kudos of more widely known labels
PHOTOS: STUDIOTIQUE
S H O P | 37
manufacturers such as House Doctor, Madam Stoltz, Bloomingville and Stelton.’ Within a minimalist space filled with wooden crates in the ‘temporary concept mall’ Fluxus on Rotebühlplatz, Là Pour Là is both a fashion store, which showcases streetwear and high-fashion labels, and an art gallery, which also plays host to concerts and club nights. Eclectic womenswear labels such as LibertineLibertine and Sessùn sit alongside urbaninspired names that include Wood Wood. The result is a multi-functional space that that epitomises the cutting-edge of modern retail. Studiotique was founded in 2012 by a graphic designer and an estate agent and is ‘the perfect match between aesthetics and efficiency’, according to store manager Angélique Catuhe. Situated in Heusteigviertel, an area known for its late 19th and early 20thcentury architecture and, increasingly, for its cafés, shops and restaurants, the boutique spans fashion, furniture and beauty. ‘The name Studiotique is a playful mixture of the words “studio” and “boutique”,’ says Catuhe of the
store, which is ‘careful to showcase designers whose work sits outside the mainstream’. Labels include furniture brand Helmut Morrison and its quirky Mustafa rocking bench inspired by original platform seats on the Munich metro. Matt light fittings by Llot Llov have a conceptual appeal: stripped-back lightbulbs with oversized cables cased in knitted turquoise tubes. However, it is not just the products on sale that echo the unadorned style of modernism. ‘The focus here is on architecture and design, and the store is fitted out with shelves by Neuvonfrisch and Studio Novo,’ notes Catuhe of the display units, which are works of art in themselves. Ultimately, the strength of these retailers lies in their investment in solid design over the glamour and kudos of more widely known labels. As Catuhe puts it, ‘We stock designers who are not very famous, but make extremely beautiful things.’ It’s an ethos that brings Stuttgart shop owners into sharp focus as proponents of a more diverse shopping experience
Above (clockwise from top left): Studio Novo shelves; Helmut Morrison Mustafa rocking bench; Llot Llov lighting, all at Studiotique
38 | E X P E R I E N C E
STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
D’ANGLETERRE One of the most luxurious hotels in Copenhagen, the five-star deluxe D’Angleterre has provided exceptional service, hospitality and comfort for over 250 years, and is more appealing than ever since its renovation in 2013. It has 90 spacious rooms and suites, and a range of facilities designed to create a stylish, restful retreat in the heart of the city. The Amazing Space spa has the only indoor pool in central Copenhagen, along with a fully globalblue.com
equipped fitness studio, and a menu of treatments that combine Asian and Nordic traditions. The Michelin-starred Marchal restaurant offers fine dining in a chic and relaxed environment, while the sleek, contemporary champagne bar, Balthazar, has a lavish bar menu and an impressive drinks list. D’Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv 34, 1050 Copenhagen, +45 3312 0095, dangleterre.com
PHOTO: NACASA & PARTNERS INC.
S H O P | 39
AMANEMU Situated in rolling hills overlooking the waters of Ago Bay in Ise-Shima National Park, the chic Amanemu hot-spring resort is a haven of peace and the perfect contrast to the bustle of Tokyo and Osaka. Its buildings are modern interpretations of traditional village architecture, and its 24 suites and four two-bedroom villas are inspired by the style of traditional Japanese ryokans (inns), with a neutral colour scheme and floor-to-ceiling
windows to allow for unobstructed views of the surrounding countryside. Each has its own private onsen (hot spring); there are others, and an outdoor heated infinity swimming pool, in the Aman Spa, which also has a menu of stress-relieving treatments. The restaurant focuses on Japanese cuisine made using the finest local ingredients. Amanemu, 2165 Hazako, Hamajima-cho, Shima 517-0403, +81 (0)65 6715 8855, aman.com
40 | E X P E R I E N C E
B&B HOTEL MILANO SANT’AMBROGIO Ideal for business and leisure, B&B Hotel Milano Sant’Ambrogio is located in a peaceful area of Milan close to Sant’Ambrogio metro station. Many of the city’s must-see sights, such as the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, home of Leonardo da Vinci’s celebrated mural of The Last Supper, and the 900-year-old Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, are within easy globalblue.com
walking distance. The hotel provides a range of rooms, decorated in a minimalist, stylish way, with large black-and-white photos of major city landmarks on the walls. There is a breakfast buffet, along with a roof terrace for the warmer months. B&B Hotel Milano Sant’Ambrogio, Via degli Olivetani 4, 20123 Milan, +39 02 4810 1089, hotel-bb.com
S H O P | 41
URSO HOTEL & SPA Perfectly placed for exploring Madrid’s Chamberi, Tribunal and Chueca areas, Urso Hotel & Spa occupies an imposing early 20th-century neoclassical building which has been restored to its original splendour. The five-star establishment has 78 light and spacious rooms and suites, featuring a stylish mix of original features and custom-made furniture in a calming, muted colour palette; two of the
suites also have a private terrace. Amenities include a luxurious basement spa from Spanish skincare brand Natura Bissé; an indoor plunge pool; and a fitness and yoga area. Start the day with homemade breakfast in The Conservatory, with its vertical garden, botanical-themed wallpaper and potted bamboos; finish with cocktails and seasonal dishes in Urso Bar. Urso Hotel & Spa, Calle de Mejía Lequerica 8, 28004 Madrid, +34 91 444 4458, hotelurso.com
PHOTO: CONSTANTINO LEITE
42 | E X P E R I E N C E
BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL The five-star Bairro Alto Hotel is ideally situated in the heart of Lisbon’s historic district, between the bohemian Bairro Alto area and trendy Chiaia. It is set in a renovated 19thcentury building, and has 55 luxurious rooms (soon to be 85) decorated in an inviting contemporary style that makes clever use of warm colours and period details. The Flores do globalblue.com
Bairro restaurant offers a menu of fusion dishes, eclectic décor and views of Praça Luis de Camões; lighter bites are available at Café-Bar BA, which has DJs or live music nightly. Admire the stunning panorama of the Rio Tejo and the city’s ancient rooftops from the top-floor BA Terrace. Bairro Alto Hotel, Praça Luis de Camões 2, 1200-243 Lisbon, +351 21 340 8288, bairroaltohotel.com
S H O P | 43
MARGOT HOUSE Occupying a prime location opposite Antoni Gaudí’s spectacular Casa Battló, Margot House is a home away from home in the heart of Barcelona. This sophisticated boutique hotel has just nine airy, comfortable rooms and suites, featuring locally made furniture and bedlinen and supplied with complimentary Aesop products. A breakfast of homemade
cakes and pastries, hams, cheeses, bread, fruit and freshly cooked eggs is served in the spacious common area, which also offers an honesty bar, computer and 24-hour snack table. Hire one of the hotel’s Brompton bicycles to explore the local area in style. Margot House, Passeig de Gràcia 46, 08007 Barcelona, +34 93 272 0076, margothouse.es
44 | G U I D E
GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Stuttgart with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from innovative jewellers to purveyors of fine porcelain. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/stuttgart.
PHOTO: STUTTGART-TOURIST.DE
A Glimpse of Stuttgart
SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code. Above: inside the Landesmuseum Württemberg, one of the main museums in Stuttgart
S H O P | 45
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FURTHER AFIELD...
PHOTO: MORITHUBER
Haus Der 1000 Uhren Visitors head to Triberg for its famous waterfalls, which are Germany’s highest, and for the fantastic hiking trails. Close to the entrance to the falls is the distinctive storefront of Haus der 1000 Uhren (‘house of 1,000 clocks’). A family-run business that specialises in Black Forest cuckoo clocks in all shapes and sizes, which make wonderful souvenirs. The boutique also has a selection of watches and leather goods from respected names including Braun Büffel, Bree and Victorinox.
Haus der 1000 Uhren, Haupstrasse 79-81, 78098 Triberg, +49 (0)7722 963030, hausder1000uhren.de
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DM-DROGERIE MARKT ● BAHNHOFAPOTHEKE ● Galeria CONRAD ● Karstadt Sport THE NORTH FACE ● KauÄof MAMMUT ● ● MANGO ● UNDIZ SPORTSCHECK ● ● ADIDAS MAGAZIN ● HALLHUBER ● ● H&M WOMEN MANUFACTUM ● ● DESIGUAL DECATHLON ● BUFFALO ● ZARA ● MANGO ●
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H&M ● KULT ● OPTIK ● INTERIORPARK ● APOLLO NEW YORKER ● TKMAXX ● GÖRTZ 17 ● KOELBLE & BRUNOTTE ● TALLY WEIJL ● HUT HANNE ● MAGNUS VILLING ● BRILLEN KRATZMANN ● LAUFMANN ●
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FREY WILLE This season, Frey Wille takes inspiration from ancient Egypt. To celebrate its 65th anniversary, the brand has launched two new designs, Tutanchamun and Luxor, striking additions to its best-selling 1990s Pharaoh-inspired collection. The Tutanchamun pieces are crafted in turquoise and royal blue, and adorned with Egyptian motifs such as the scarab beetle and the lotus flower. The Luxor designs include feminine rosettes and lilies, and use bold red, a colour which featured in ancient Egyptian beauty rituals.
Place Of Interest
Friedo Frier, Königstrasse 21, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 292970, freywille.com
48 | G U I D E
PHOTO: STEFAN FUSSAN CC BY-SA 2.0
TAKE A WALK
Stuttgart’s Schlossgarten can be a beautiful place to stroll on a fine winter’s day. Make your way to the Oberer Schlossgarten (‘upper castle garden’) from where you can admire some of the city’s most prominent landmarks, including the classical architecture of the Staatstheater and the strikingly modern Haus der Landtag.
M A M SS IC IM HA O E D EC L K U T T KE OR I ● RL S ● UL E● IK ● L’ O R N E ● HU BU C OE CH HO GO C N G I T C K T● LL BO ● A IS S ES AL NE L ● LO TE S ● C A OW ● NG R M DA ● ON CH ● ● TB AM LO P LA UI NC S VU IT TO N
Calwer Strasse & Kronprinzstrasse, Marktplatz, Kirchstrasse, Stiftstrasse & Eberhardstrasse
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● ANTORA SELECTION ● GLÜCKSKIND CHILDRENSWEAR ● ZYPR CASHMERE
MEISSEN Meissen was Europe’s first porcelain manufacturer, established in 1710, and more than 300 years later the German company enjoys a worldwide reputation for its exquisite tableware, figurines, objets d’art and jewellery. This enduring success has been helped by the company’s dedication to painstaking craftsmanship. Meissen’s painters and modellers are trained for at least three years, and only those with decades of expertise and skill create the LimitedEdition Art Works series, as is evident in the spectacular end results.
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Meissen, Calwer Strasse 16, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 120 4574, meissen.com
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50 | G U I D E
DAY TRIP WERTHEIM VILLAGE Wertheim Village, located 90 minutes from Stuttgart city centre, plays host to more than 110 designer boutiques from both German and international labels. The Village’s traditional scallop-tiled roofing and turrets echo nearby vineyard-clad hills and local villages.
A3 Wertheim Village
A81
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STUTTGART
Outlet Village
Wertheim Village, Almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim, +49 (0)9342 919 9100, wertheimvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com
OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sundays & public holidays: closed For special opening times please visit the website
HOW TO GET W Ü R Z B E R G THERE... A3
By car From Stuttgart, take the A81 towards Würzburg. At Würzburg Kist, change to the A3 towards Frankfurt. Take exit 66 Wertheim/Lengfurt for Wertheim Village. The drive takes approximately 90 minutes from Stuttgart city centre.
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PERFECT DAY
10am Start your day at German label Drykorn. The brand is known for setting the trends; expect bright colours, bold prints and a high-quality finish. 11am Lagerfeld’s boutique offers the complete ready-towear men’s collection and range of accessories, all infused with Karl Lagerfeld’s signature style.
DON’T MISS… FIVE-STAR SERVICES The Village offers a range of VIP services including: Free Wi-Fi Free parking A personal shopper (on request) Tourist information A children’s playground
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SHOPPING PACKAGES Various packages are available at the Village, which can be booked via the Village’s website. Services can include: Return tickets to the Village on the Shopping Express® luxury coach A €25 Wertheim Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique of your choice at the Village An exclusive gift Lunch with small soft drink at La Piazza restaurant at the Village
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1pm Stop for a lunch break at Prime. The restaurant serves a range of high-quality dishes including burgers, fresh salads and daily specials, served in an urban-chic environment. 3pm Steiff’s trademark ear button makes its high-quality teddy bears instantly recognisable. The Steiff range also includes dogs, cats and pigs. 6pm End your day by admiring the craftsmanship displayed in Bally’s exquisite leather goods collection. Pieces offer the highest quality as well as contemporary styling.
52 | G U I D E
OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)
DAY TRIP OUTLETCITY METZINGEN Located near renowned German high fashion label Hugo Boss’s headquarters, Outletcity Metzingen is one of Europe’s most popular outlet centres.
With over 70 top international brands available at reductions of up to 70%, the stylish centre attracts 3.5 million visitors per year.
Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com
STUTTGART
STUTTGART CENTRAL STATION
Outletcity Metzingen B28
METZINGEN WÜRTT L230 A8
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HOW TO GET THERE... By car From Stuttgart take the B27 and exit on to the B312, signposted Metzingen. Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.
By train There is a train from Stuttgart to Metzingen every 30 minutes. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes. The outlet is a few minutes’ walk from Metzingen station.
By Shopping Shuttle A convenient special bus takes visitors from Stuttgart to the outlet and back four times a day every Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
PERFECT DAY 10am Start your day perusing the sportswear on offer at Peak Performance; the label is well known for combining practicality and style.
2pm The ready-to-wear collection available at Hugo Boss strikes the perfect balance between fashion and functionality, underpinned with German design.
12pm Take a break and enjoy a lunchtime pause at Keim Bakery, which offers refreshments from freshly made sandwiches to delicious coffee and cake.
4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces classic, feminine pieces which exude elegance – the designer’s printed wrap dress is an iconic wardrobe staple.
Outlet Village
Train Station
6pm End your trip at Samsonite. This esteemed luggage manufacturer is known for offering quality, durability and surprisingly lightweight suitcases.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
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1. Shop
2. Claim
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When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: A Taste for Discovery
Вкус новизны
Расположение Штутгарта в историческом районе Швабии предопределило кулинарную сцену города. Ханна Льюис рассказывает о лучших традиционных блюдах и напитках
PHOTO: EMILY MONTANA
Чтобы по-настоящему познакомиться с городом, сперва стоит хорошенько узнать его жителей, и вряд ли найдется лучший и более приятный для этого способ, чем попробовать местную кухню. Пища – это своеобразный язык, на котором говорят абсолютно все, а по местной кухне можно многое сказать о регионе. Штутгарт является столицей земли Баден-Вюртемберг, известной своей кухней, и предлагает неограниченные возможности для смелого дегустатора. Каждый район Германии имеет отличительное культурное наследие, и Штутгарт, входивший в состав исторической
области Швабия, не стал исключением. Наиболее известные блюда Швабии отличаются необыкновенной насыщенностью вкуса и идеально подходят для зимних месяцев. Gaisburger marsch – ароматное рагу из говядины и овощей очень сытное и вкусное; рекомендуем попробовать его в Ochs’n Willi на Kleiner Schlossplatz, где это блюдо подают с картофелем по-деревенски и жареными луковыми кольцами. Еще одно классическое лакомство в меню – Kässpätzle, ароматная вермишель с сыром и пассированным луком, все согласно традиционной швабской кухне. Блюда из яичной лапши, по-местному spätzle, можно встретить по всему региону. Они представляют собой лучший пример штутгартской кулинарии. Хоть Германия, возможно, и не самое первое место, которое приходит в голову, когда речь заходит о спагетти, тем не менее, это блюдо является одним из главных элементов местной кухни. Maultaschen – еще одно местное блюдо, распространившееся по всей Европе, и слегка напоминающее итальянские
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равиоли. Обычно maultaschen подаются с начинкой из мяса, шпината, сухарей и лука с добавлением ароматных специй. Их жарят со сливочным маслом или отваривают в бульоне, но, независимо от способа приготовления, они буквально таят во рту. В шоппинг-центре Stuttgart Markthalle можно попробовать несколько разновидностей этого немецкого блюда. Многие традиционные рестораны Штутгарта имеют соответствующий традиционный интерьер. Заведение Zum Ackerbürger на Spreuergasse расположено в одном из старейших зданий города, построенном в районе 1550 года. Это место любят за отличную швабскую кухню: домашние maultaschen в бульоне здесь просто превосходны. В старинном здании на Calwer Strasse расположился ресторан Paulaner am Alten Postplatz, где подают традиционные швабские блюда в стилизованной атмосфере старины. Чаще всего местные жители заказывают здесь всевозможные виды копченых колбасок würstchen; попробуйте Wiener würstl mit butterspätzle (копченая колбаса с макаронами в сливочном масле). äенителям современной атмосферы стоит посетить ресторан Speisemeisterei, удостоенный мишленовской звезды. Расположенный в замке Schloss Hohenheim, ресторан был приобретен знаменитым шеф-поваром Франком Элером в 2008. Здание было отреставрировано, не утратив своего исторического шарма, а меню хоть и имеет современный вид, тем не менее, отражает кулинарные традиции региона. Предпочтение отдается местным сезонным ингредиентам. Популярные блюда включают оленину с ягодами и кольраби, а также свинину с терном и горчицей. Обратите внимание на меню Stuttgart und Land, объединившее в себе самые интересные кулинарные идеи Штутгарта и его окрестностей. Помимо еды, Швабия ценится своими замечательными винами. Несмотря на репутацию индустриального центра, Штутгарт окружен потрясающей природой и множеством виноградников. Первые
PHOTO: WLADYSLAW SOJKA/SOJKA.PHOTO CC BY-SA 3.0
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упоминания о местном виноделии появились еще в 1108 году. Ежегодно с конца августа по начало сентября в Штутгарте проходит ежегодный винный фестиваль Weindorf. Знаменитые вина региона включают такие марки, как Trollinger, Silvaner и Spätburgunder. Если вам по душе сладкие игристые вина, обязательно попробуйте Kessler Sekt – одно из самых старинных и роскошных вин Германии. Продегустировать хорошие винтажные вина Швабии можно в одном из многочисленных винных баров города. Der Rote Hirsch на Marktsrasse – довольно стильное и современное место, отдающее предпочтение местным винам и продуктам. Weinstube Zur Kiste на Kanalstrasse – более традиционный бар с уютными помещениями, где часто можно встретить любителей местного вина. Не удивляйтесь, если вам подадут вино в бокале с ручкой –
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это старинная немецкая традиция. Штутгарт также славится и своим пивом. Наиболее популярные марки включают Stuttgarter Hofräu, Dinkelacker и Schwaben Bräu, хотя независимые частные пивоварни им не уступают. На Calwer Strasse расположен паб Brauhaus CalwerEck, известный отличным пивом местного разлива и веселой атмосферой. Sophie’s Brauhaus на Marienstrasse – еще один паб, ставший знаменитым, благодаря пиву собственного производства. Стильный интерьер в стиле «рустик» сочетается с уникальной возможностью понаблюдать за работой пивовара. Кулинарная жизнь Штутгарта с его ароматными блюдами и превосходными напитками может многое предложить современным гурманам. Традиционная швабская кухня – неотъемлемая часть городской культуры, поэтому не упустите шанс с ней познакомиться лично! 32: Modern World
Модернистский мир Бет Дрюс рассказывает о главных концептсторах Штутгарта, которые располагают тщательно подобранным ассортиментом лаконичных вещей
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Здание городской библиотеки Штутгарта, которое в 2011 году было построено на площади Mailänder Platz, представляет собой белый бетонный куб, в который вмонтированы кирпичи из матового стекла. Оно современно, минималистично и вместе с тем грандиозно: с архитектурной точки зрения, это строение стало доминантой всего района. àоявление столь примечательного здания именно в Штутгарте не так уж удивительно: именно этот город одним из первых в Германии стал активно практиковать модернизм. ä 1927 году здесь появился целый комплекс äайсенхоф, состоящий из 21 здания в едином стиле без лишних деталей: только белые фасады, плоские крыши и открытая планировка квартир. Его влияние оказалось столь существенным, что позднее äайсенхоф стали считать важнейшим этапом в развитии современной архитектуры во всем мире. С тех пор прошло почти 90 лет, и Штутгарт по-прежнему столь же увлеченно осваивает новейшие тенденции. ä результате этого процесса появилось не только здание городской библиотеки, но и музеи Porsche и MercedesBenz. Лаконичный и ясный архитектурный стиль воплощает суть и дух этих брендов. ùе же процессы охватили и торговые улицы
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PHOTO: STUDIOTIQUE
города, где владельцы магазинов создают современную среду для представления своего ассортимента. Один из магазинов – Hook & Eye на Hauptstätter Strasse, где продаются аксессуары и отреставрированные винтажные вещи для дома. Здесь много вложено в дизайн и атмосферу: «Мы любим смешивать различные материалы. Особенно нам нравятся вещи с «патиной», – комментирует Ирис Уилке из Hook & Eye. – Даже на нашем бетонном полу можно увидеть проторенные тропинки, оставленные нашими клиентами». Магазин обставлен встроенной мебелью из выбеленной сосны – модульной системой, которую компания Hook & Eye разработала для себя сама: «Мы любим работать с яркими цветами, поэтому мы оставили декор комнат чистым и в бело-серых тонах, – объясняет Уилке. – Это похоже на белое полотно – идеальный фон для наших цветных интерьеров». Помимо собственноручно восстановленной мебели, Hook & Eye продает коллекции самых разных актуальных брендов. «Мы всегда ищем свежие лейблы, такие как Fundamental Berlin, который создали молодые берлинские архитекторы, – говорит Уилке. – Нам нравятся их чаши и рамки, вдохновленные математикой природы. Еще один хороший бренд – Pols Potten из Нидерландов,
он специализируется на фарфоровых фигурках: например, золотые ананасы или большие белые лобстеры. Но нам также нравится сочетать эти вещи с более привычными аксессуарами для интерьера от скандинавских производителей, таких как House Doctor, Madam Stoltz, Bloomingville и Stelton». äо «временном концептуальном молле» Fluxus на площади Rotebühlplatz находится пространство Là Pour Là, обставленное ящиками в сдержанной манере. Это и модный магазин уличной одежды и высокой моды, и художественная галерея, где проводятся концерты и клубные ночи. Бренды эклектичной женской одежды Libertine-Libertine и Sessùn органично сосуществуют с брендами в урбан-стиле, как, например, Wood Wood. ä итоге это мультифункциональное пространство воплощает все самое актуальное, что сейчас есть в модном ритейле. Бутик Studiotique в 2012 году основали графический дизайнер и агент по
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недвижимости: такой тандем, по мнению управляющей магазина Анжелик Кату, практически «идеален с точки зрения сочетания эстетики и эффективности». Он расположен в районе Heusteigviertel, в окружении архитектуры 19-20 веков, а также кафе, магазинов и ресторанов, количество которых неуклонно растет. В бутике продается одежда, мебель и косметика: «Название Studiotique обыгрывает слова «студио» и «бутик». Кату отмечает, что Studiotique «тщательно отбирает тех дизайнеров, которые работают вне мейнстрима». Мебельный бренд Helmut Morrison – один из таких: он создал причудливую скамью-качалку Mustafa, напоминающую сидения мюнхенских станций метро. Светильник Matt от Llot Llov привлекает своей концептуальностью: это оголенные лампочки с огромным кабелем в вязаном бирюзовом чехле. Но не только товары на витринах свидетельствуют о любви к модернистскому лаконизму: «Основное внимание здесь уделяется архитектуре и дизайну: магазин обставлен витринами от Neuvonfrisch и Studionovo», – рассказыват Кату. И эти витрины сами по себе – произведения искусства. Сила этих бутиков – в желании вкладываться в качественный дизайн, а не идти за демонстративностью и знаменитостью более популярных брендов. Кату характеризует это так: «Мы продаем вещи дизайнеров, которые делают невероятно красивые вещи, но не очень известны». Благодаря этой стратегии владельцы штутгартских магазинов стали искренними сторонниками более интересного и разнообразного шоппинга. 53: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 globalblue.com
миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
美文翻译 26: A Taste for Discovery 寻味之旅 斯图加特地处历史悠久的士瓦本（Swabia）地区， 有着独一无二的美食文化。Hannah Lewis带您品 尝这座城市最美味的传统食物和饮品 要触摸到一座城市的灵魂，关键在于了解这座城市 的人。还有什么比深入探索当地人深爱的美食文化 更有效——或者说更舒心——的途经呢？食物是人 类共同的语言，人们对待饮食的态度述说了这个地 方的风土人情。作为德国巴登-符腾堡州（BadenWürttemberg）的首府，以美食而闻名于世的斯图 加特一定能让“吃货们”挑花眼。德国的每一块土地 都拥有独特的文化底蕴，而曾经是士瓦本地区—— 即如今巴登和符腾堡一带——一部分的斯图加特同 样有着巨大的影响力。 著名的士瓦本佳肴浓郁丰盛、抚慰心肠，最适合 寒冷的天气。比如Gaisburger marsch，这是一款 香气四溢的牛肉炖蔬菜，令人食指大动，欢欣雀跃。 我们向您推荐坐落于小宫殿广场（Kleiner
PHOTO: JAN ZESCHKY CC BY-NC 2.0
PHOTO: WILHELM BETZ FOTOGRAFIE
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Schlossplatz）的Ochs’n Willi餐厅，他家使用土豆 角和炸洋葱作为配菜。另一款经典美食叫
Kässpätzle，浓郁的奶酪面搭配腌制或炸洋葱，地 道的士瓦本风味令人心满意足。 这种柔软的spätzle（鸡蛋面）在当地的美食中 随处可见，是斯图加特治愈系美食的代表。提起面条 和面团，您的脑海中第一个冒出来的可能并不是德 国，但面食乃是德国美食文化不可分割的一部分。欧 盟认证的士瓦本“地区特产”Maultaschen就令人不 由联想起意大利饺子（Ravioli）。传统的 Maultaschen德式饺子以肉、菠菜、面包屑和洋葱为 馅，配以迷人的香料。无论是油炸，还是淋上些许黄 油，抑或是放在肉汤中，可口的德式饺子一定会让您 大快朵颐。您可以前往历史久远的斯图加特市场大 厅品尝令人垂涎欲滴的各式饺子。
许多斯图加特的传统餐厅坐落于同样历史感十 足的环境中。Spreuergasse大街上的 Zum Ackerbürger餐厅位于全市最古老的建筑内，其历史 可以追溯到1550年，餐厅以新鲜烹制的士瓦本菜肴 而广受欢迎，自制肉汤德式饺子风味绝佳。Calwer Strasse大道上的Paulaner am Alten Postplatz餐 厅同样主打传统士瓦本美食，经过翻新的老建筑既 配备了现代的设施，又不失复古情怀。德式香肠 （würstchen）尤其受当地人喜爱，烟熏香肠黄油面 （Wiener würstl mit butterspätzle）也值得一尝。 若想体验现代风格，不妨直奔米其林一星的 Speisemeisterei餐厅。屡获殊荣的名厨Frank Oehler在2008年买下了这家位于Schloss Hohenheim的餐馆。餐馆的建筑虽然经过翻新，但 仍然保留了历史风韵。菜单看似充满现代气息，却呈 现了当地最为传统的美食。餐厅大量采用当地时令 食材，浆果甘蓝烧鹿肉、黑刺李芥末猪肉等菜肴备 受食客青睐。其中，Stuttgart und Land菜单主打 斯图加特及周边的食材和美食灵感。 除了美食，美酒是士瓦本另一大名鼎鼎的出口 品。尽管工业重镇的名声远扬四海，但其实斯图加特 风景如画的自然地貌，非常适合葡萄的种植。据文字 记载，斯图加特的酿酒历史可以追溯到1108年，八 月底至九月初举办的Weindorf 葡萄酒节更是充分 体现了这个产区的非凡影响力。当地著名的葡萄酒 品种包括特罗灵格（Trollinger）、西万尼 （Silvaner）和德国黑皮诺（Spätburgunder）。喜 欢起泡酒的话，凯斯勒香槟酒（Kessler Sekt）是德 国最古老的起泡酒，堪称酒中极品。 遍地开花的酒吧是品鉴士瓦本葡萄酒的绝妙去 处。Marktstrasse大街上的Der Rote Hirsch酒吧 时尚别致而富有格调，美酒和美食皆产自当 地。Kanalstrasse大街上的Weinstube Zur Kiste 酒吧则更加传统，常常可以看到成群的当地人坐在 暖意融融的房间里，品尝当地葡萄园的佳酿。如果您 的葡萄酒装在一只带把手的玻璃杯中，千万不要感 到诧异：这可是正宗的德国喝法。 斯图加特的啤酒同样名气不小，游客可以前往 Stuttgarter Hofbräu、Dinkelacker 和Schwaben Bräu等知名啤酒坊来上一杯，当然其他小型酒坊也 毫不逊色。Calwer Strasse大街上的Brauhaus Calwer-Eck酒馆以鲜酿啤酒和热闹气氛而备受推 崇。Sophie’s Brauhaus酒馆的鲜酿啤酒也很有名， 按季节供应。这家淳朴别致的小酒馆位于 Marienstrasse大街，独特之处在于，您可以亲睹酿 酒师当场酿造佳饮。 有珍馐与美酿相伴，斯图加特的美食文化让当 今的美食客大呼过瘾。传统的士瓦本佳肴是这座城 市不可或缺的一部分，还有什么理由不去畅享一 番呢？
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32: Modern World 现代世界 斯图加特各大概念商店凭借专业视角，为您精选一 系列线条分明、设计优美的作品。Beth Druce带您 一探究竟 斯图加特城市图书馆是一座用混凝土筑成的纯白魔 方，其外墙是由磨砂玻璃砖铺成。它坐落在米兰广场 （Mailänder Platz），既充满现代感又极具标志 性。其建筑理念虽极简抽象，却令人印象深刻；2011 年落成后，这片欣欣向荣的宝地便因之奠定了基调。 斯图加特乃是德国最早迎来现代主义的城市之一， 考虑到这一点，这座图书馆的大胆建筑风格也就不 足为奇了。建成于1927年的白院聚落（Weissenhof Estate）便是这座城市完成现代化进程的标志，它由 21座格调统一的建筑物组成，白色的外墙、平顶和 敞开式生活空间，呈现一派干净利落的设计风格。白 院聚落在业界有着深远的影响，以至于它后来被视 为现代建筑国际化发展的中心。 白院聚落建成约90年后，斯图加特对现代性的 专注追求一如从前。除了城市博物馆，此地还坐落着 保时捷和奔驰的品牌博物馆。流线型风格和清晰的 轮廓，即是这些品牌的基因。如今，同样的风尚正向 这座城市的购物街袭来。各大零售商致力于打造完 美、新潮的购物环境，以便在其中销售自家精品。
globalblue.com
在Hauptstätter Strasse大街上，Hook & Eye 商场不仅销售家居饰品，更有典藏古玩任您挑选，其 门店设计和风格营造也颇费了一番心思。“我们喜欢 将不同的材料混合起来。而且，我们希望物品也能富 有‘神采’，” 效力于Hook & Eye的Iris Wilke评论 道。“在我们的混凝土地面上，您可以看到顾客穿行 的路径。”这家门店采用刷白的松木，即Hook & Eye 自己开发的室内装潢模块系统。“我们喜欢运用醒目 的色彩，所以才用灰、白等清爽色调来装饰房间，” Wilke解释道。“这就像白色的画布一样，能为我们 色彩缤纷的室内装潢提供完美的背景。” 除了自营的家具品牌，Hook & Eye还荟萃了众 多前卫品牌。“我们一直都在发掘新鲜品牌，例如 Fundamental Berlin这种由年轻柏林设计师创立 的品牌，” Wilke说道。“我们很喜欢他们设计的碗和 框架，其灵感来自于大自然中的数学原理。另一个受 我们青睐的品牌，是来自荷兰的Pols Potten。它专 擅于制作瓷器形象，例如金色的菠萝和白色的大龙 虾。不过，我们也喜欢甄选House Doctor、Madam Stoltz、Bloomingville和Stelton等北欧制造商设计 的、较常见的室内用品，与这些物件混搭在一起。” “临时概念商场” Fluxus位于Rotebühlplatz 广场，Là Pour Là门店就坐落其中，极简的空间内 塞满了大大小小的木箱。它不仅是一家时尚商店，街 头服饰与高端时尚品牌一应俱全，同时也是一家艺 术博物馆，还会举办音乐会和俱乐部之
PHOTO: THOMAS HASSEL CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
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夜。Libertine-Libertine和Sessùn等兼收并蓄的女 装品牌与Wood Wood之类从都市汲取灵感的品牌 相映成趣，任您选购。如此便形成了一块多功能空 间，体现出现代零售业的前沿走势。 2012年，一位平面设计师与一名房产经纪人联 手，创立了Studiotique。门店经理Angélique Catuhe表示，该品牌是“美学与效率的完美结合”。 这家精品店位于Heusteigviertel地区，经营范围涵 盖时装、家具和美妆。Heusteigviertel因诸多19世纪 末、20世纪初的建筑而闻名于世，当地的咖啡馆、商 店和餐厅也声名鹊起。“Studiotique这个名字 将‘studio（工作室）’和‘ boutique（精品店）’两个 词生动地结合了起来，” 该店经理Catuhe说道，这是 为了“精心展示那些作品散落于主流之外的设计师作 品。” 在这家店里，您可以选购Helmut Morrison家 具等众多品牌。例如Helmut Morrison设计的个性 摇椅Mustafa——灵感来自慕尼黑地铁站的月台座 位。Llot Llov推出的亚光灯饰则极具概念性：粗实 的线条连接反扭灯泡，包裹在青绿色针织灯罩内。不 过，与现代主义的纯粹风格呼应的，不只是在售商品 而已。“这里的焦点，是建筑和设计。Neuvonfrisch 和Studionovo书架在店内随处可见，” Catuhe如此 评论道——这些搁架单元本身已经是艺术品。 归根结底，与声名显赫的大牌相比，这些零售商 的优势在于其设计上的用心良苦。正如Catuhe所 说，“我们旗下的设计师虽不太出名，却能做出至善至 美的作品。”正是这样的态度，加之更多样化的购物 体验，让斯图加特的店主们备受瞩目，大放异彩。
53: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税
当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务( Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻 找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 (Global Blue) 服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form)，并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25即可节省高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。
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PHOTO: STUDIOTIQUE
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عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 300,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.
PHOTO: ANDERS BEIER
لنصات محطّات القطار ف ميونخ .ولنوار Mattمن الصليّة ّ Llot Llovمفهو ٌم خاص :إنّها لبات عارية مز ّودة بكبلت ج ّدا ً طويلة ومغلّفة بأنابيب زرقاء محبوكة .إل أ ّن أسلوب الحداثة غي التكلّف ل يظهر ف القطع العروضة للبيع فحسب .إذ تقول Catuheعن وحدات العرض التي تشكّل تحفاً فنيّة بح ّد ذاتها: “نركّز هنا عل الهندسة والتصميم والتجر مز ّود برفوف من Neuvonfrischو”.Studionovo ل ّ شك أ ّن ق ّوة هؤلء الت ّجار تكمن ف استثمرهم ف التصميم اللموس ولي“ ف التألّق والشهرة التي تعتمد عليها علمات أخرى معروفة عل نطاقٍ أوسع .عل ح ّد تعبي “ :Catuheنعرض أعمل مص ّممي ليسوا ذائعي الصيت ،لكن يبتكرون قطعاً غاية ف الجمل ”.وهذا ما يش ّجع أصحاب محلت شتوتغارت عل بذل الجهود ليكونوا داعمي لتجربة تس ّوق أكث تن ّوعاً.
.2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب الستداد ّ للت ّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من ثن مشتياتك.
يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجمو” الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
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Hook & Eyeأكسسوارات منزليّة بقطع عريقة مر ّممة ،وقد الحل وديكوره .يقول Iris Wilke استثمر الكثي ف تصميم ّ ونحب رؤية “الزنجار” من التجر“ :نهوى دمج الواد الختلفة ّ يتك ّون عل القطع .وعل أرضيّتنا السمنتيّة ،يكنك أن ترى آثار أقدام الزبائن ”.التجر مز ّود بعناص ُمدمجة مصنوعة من خشب الصنوبر ال ُبيّض وهو نظا ٌم ن ََسقي ابتكره .Hook & Eyeيقول “نحب استخدام اللوان القويّة ،ولذلك Wilkeف هذا السياق: ّ أبقينا ديكور الغرف نظيفاً بلون البيض والرمادي ليشكّل كقمش الكانفا البيض خلفيّ ًة ممتازة لساحاتنا الفائضة باللوان”. بالضافة إل الثاث ال ُ َجدّد من قبل الفريق ،يعرض Hook & Eyeعلمات تجاريّة مبتكرة .يعلّق Wilkeقائلً“ :نحن ف ٍ بحث دائم عن العلمات الجديدة عل سبيل Fundamental نحب الوعية Berlinوهي علمة لهندسي شباب من برليّ .
PHOTO: VICTOR JON GOICO
والطارات التي يبتكرونها ويستلهمونها من رياضيّات الطبيعة. من العلمات الخرى التي نحبّها Pols Pottenمن هولندا، بالجسمت الخزفيّة الصغية ،با فيها فاكهة الناناس التخصصة ّ ّ الذهبيّة أو الكركند البيض الكبي .لك ّننا نستسيغ أيضاً تنسيق هذه البتكارات مع قطع ديكور أكث شيوعاً من مص ّنعي اسكندينافيّي مثل House DoctorوMadam Stoltz و Bloomingvilleو”.Stelton ف مساح ٍة متواضع ٍة مملوءة باالصناديق الخشبيّة ف “التجر التخصص الؤقّت” Fluxusف ،Rotebühlplatzيقع Là ّ متخصصة ،Pour Làوهو متجر ألبسة يعرض علمات تجاريّة ّ بلب“ الشار” وأخرى فاخرة ،وهو ف الوقت عينه معرض للفنون، ٍ متخصصة باللب“ النسائيّة حفلت موسيقيّة .فتجد علمات يُحيي ّ عل سبيل Libertine-Libertineو Sessùnجنباً إل جنب أسمء أخرى مستوحاة من الدينة مثل .Wood Woodبالتال، تجسد البتكار الجريء ف عال إنّها مساحة متعدّدة الوظائف ّ التجارة الحديث. تأس“ Studiotiqueسنة 2012عل يد مص ّمم غرافيك ّ ووكيل عقارات ويشكّل “التناغم الثال بي الشكل الجميل والفعاليّة” ،عل ح ّد قول مديرة التجر .Angélique Catuhe يقع ف منطقة Heusteigviertelالعروفة بأسلوبها العمري من أواخر القرن التاسع عش وأوائل القرن العشين وتزداد شهر ًة الحل الزياء اليوم بقاهيها ومحلتها ومطاعمها ،ويشمل هذا ّ والثاث والجمل .تشح Catuheقائلة“ :إسم Studiotique مشتق من الكلمتي studioأي “استوديو” و boutiqueأي “محل” وهو متجر يحرص عل عرض مص ّممي تخرج أعملهم عن ّ الألوف”. تشمل العلمات التجاريّة فيه علمة Helmut Morrison الختصة بالثاث ومقعد اله ّزاز Mustafaالستوحى من القاعد ّ
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الخاص بنطقة ،”Swabiaفيذكّرنا بالرافيول اليطاليّة. بـ “الطبق ّ –ُ ل ُصر العكرونة هذه باللّحم والسبانخ وفُتات الخبز الح ّمص والبصل وتُب ّهر بطيّ ٍ وبغض النظر إن ت ّم قليها أو دهنها بات لذيذةّ . بالقليل من الزبدة أو تقديها مع الرق ،فهي شهيّة رائعة ل محال. ننصحك بزيارة سوق Stuttgart Markthalleالتاريخي لتذ ّوق البعض من أنواعها الطيّبة. تتمتّع الكثي من مطاعم شتوتغارت التقليديّة ببيئ ٍة تقليديّة تشبهها .يقع مطعم Zum Ackerbürgerف شارع Spreuergasseف أحد أقدم البان ف الدينة ،الذي شيّد حوال سنة .1550يشتهر هذا الطعم بأطباق Swabiaالطازجة؛ طبق حق .وف شارع Calwer Maultaschenبالرق لذيذ عن ّ ،Strasseيقدّم مطعم Paulaner am Alten Postplatz بأسلوب أطباقاً تقليديّة من Swabiaوذلك ف مبنى تاريخي ُر ّمم ٍ حس العراقة. جميل لتوفي التسهيلت الحديثة ،مع الحافظة ع” ّ يعشق الحليّون تشكيلة würstchenأي النقانق التي يقدّمها. ج ّرب Wiener würstl mit butterspätzleوهي نقانق مدخّنة تُقدّم مع النودلز بالزبدة. ولتجربة أكث عصيّة ،تو ّجه إل مطعم Speisemeisterei الحائز نجمة .Michelinيقع ف Schloss Hohenheim وقد اشتاه سنة 2008الشيف Frank Oehlerالحائز جائزة. ت ّم ترميم البنى من دون فقدان سحره التاريخي ،وبالرغم من كل الطباق تقليديّة من الطبخ التصميم العصي لقائة الطعامّ ، الذي تشتهر به النطقة .تُستخدم هنا الك ّونات الحليّة الوسميّة ومن الطباق الشهية لحم الغزال بالتوت والكرنب أو لحم الخنزير بالبقوق والخردل .أطلب قائة الطعام Stuttgart und Land التي تقوم ع” مك ّونات وإيحاءات من الدينة ومحيطها. وعلو ًة ع” الطعام ،إ ّن النبيذ من أبرز صادرات .Swabia فبالرغم من شهرة شتوتغارت كمرك ٍز صناعي ،تتمتّع بساحات طبيعيّة جميلة تشكّل أرضاً خصبة لزراعة العنب .تعود أقدم السجلت الكتوبة عن صناعة النبيذ ف شتوتغارت إل سنة 1108 وخي دليل ع” أهميّة هذه الصناعة اليوم هو مهرجان النبيذ السنوي Weindorfالذي يجري ف أواخر آب/أغسطس وأوائل أيلول/سبتمب .من أنواع النبيذ الشهورة ف النطقة Trollinger تحب الفقاقيع، و Silvanerو .Spätburgunderإن كنت ّ Kessler Sektهو أقدم نبيذ غازي ف ألانيا وهو ممتا ٌز عن حق. ّ كم تكث حانات النبيذ ف الدينة وهي الكان الثال لتذ ّوق أنواع نبيذ Swabiaالعريقة والجيّدة .حانة Der Rite Hirschف شارع Marktsrasseجميلة وعصيّة، تحرص ع” تقديم النبيذ والأكولت النتجة محليّاً .وف شارع ،Kanalstrasseتجد حانة Weinstube Zur Kisteالتي تعج غرفها بالسكّان تتمتّع بطابع ييل أكث إل التقليديّة وغالباً ما ّ الحليّي الذين يتلذّذون فاكهة كروم النطقة .ل تتفاجأ إن قُدّم لك النبيذ ٍ بكأس ذي مسكة؛ فهذه هي الطريقة اللانيّة التقليديّة. تشتهر شتوتغارت كذلك بالبية وع” ز ّوارها أن يحتسوا الشوبات من مخامر ذائعة الصيت ع” سبيل Stuttgarter Hofbräuو Dinkelackerو Schwaben Bräuبالرغم من ُحسن الخامر الصغر أيضاً .ف شارع ،Calwer Strasseتشتهر مخمرة Bauhaus Calwer-Eckبالبية التي تخ ّمرها وبج ّوها الفعم بالحياة .وقد اكتسبت مخمرة Sophie’s Brauhaus
الشهرة من خلل أنواع البية التي تخ ّمرها وتنتجها موسميّاً .تقع
هذه الخمرة العريقة لكن الجميلة ف شارع Marienstrasse
وهي فريدة من نوعها إّذ يكنك أن ترى صانع البية يعمل أمام عينيك. من الطباق اللّذيذة إل الشوبات الثاليّة الرافقة لها ،لدى مطبخ شتوتغارت الكثي ليقدّمه إل محبّي تذ ّوق الطعام .وبا أ ّن الطعام التقليدي ف Swabiaهو جزء ل يتج ّزأ من ثقافة الدينة، أهناك من ح ّجة أفضل للنغمس ف ملذاته؟ Modern World :32
عالٌ عصي
التخصصة الرائدة ف شتوتغارت تشكيلة من القطع تقدّم التاجر ّ بأسلوب جميل ،مع التكيز ع” الخطوط الختارة بدقّة والص ّممة ٍ النظيفة ،تقرير Beth Druce مكتبة الدينة ف شتوتغارت هي عبارة عن مك ّعب ناصع البياض، الرصع بالزجاج الصنفر .بحكم موقعها ف مبني من ا“سمنت ّ ّ ساحة ،Mailänder Platzتتمتّع بالعصيّة والرمزيّة ف آنٍ واحد ،وتشكّل عملً هندسيّاً مالئ الكانُ ،ص ّمم ُليس حجر الساس لربا ليس هذا للمنطقة الصاعدة التي شُ يّد فيها سنة ّ .2011 العمل الهندس الجريء بالفاجئ ،إذا ما أخذت بعي العتتبار أ ّن شتوتغارت هي من أول الدن اللانيّة التي اعتمدت الحداثة ف شكل الشوع السكني Weissenhof Estateالذي أُنجز سنة .1927تألّف الشوع من 21مبنى متشابهاً من حيث التصميم النظيف والرت ّب التمثّل بواجهات بيضاء وأسطُح ملساء ومخطّطات مفتوحة .وكان لـ Weissenhofالوقع الكبي ج ّدا ُ، فاعتُب مشوعاً جوهريّاً لنم ّو الهندسة الحديثة حول العال.
بعد حوال تسعي سنة من تشييد ،Weissenhofتبقى شتوتغارت ملتزمة بتطبيق الحداثة كم كانت ف السابق .با“ضافة إل مكتبة الدينة ،يتمتّع متحفا PorscheوMercedes-Benz بالسلوب العصي النظيف الذي يحدّد هويّة العلمتي .واليوم، يت ّد هذا الطابع إل شوارع التس ّوق ف الدينة ،ف حي يسعى الت ّجار إل خلق الساحة البتكرة الثاليّة لبيع منتجاتهم. ففي شارع ،Hauptstätter Strasseيدمج متجر globalblue.com
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PHOTO: VOLKER KLENK CC BY 2.0
النودلز بالجبنة ،يُقدّم مع البصل الش ّوح أو القل وطعم Swabiaالحقيقي. تدخل spätzleأي نودلز البيض الطريّة ف عدّة أطباق ف النطقة و–ثّل بعض أفضل الأكولت السهلة واللّذيذة ف شتوتغارت .وعل الرغم من أ ّن ألانيا ليست البلد ال ّول الذي يطرأ عل بالك عند التفكي بالنودلز والعكرونة ،تتجذّر هذه الطعمة ف ثقافة الطبخ هنا .أ ّما ،maultaschenالعروف ف أرجاء أوروبا
ترجمة باللغة العربيّة A Taste for Discovery :26
ل ّذة الستكشاف
بحكم موقع شتوتغارت ف منطقة Swabiaالتاريخيّة ،تضطلع بطب ٍخ مميّز .تتذ ّوق Hannah Lewisأفضل الأكولت والشوبات ف هذه الدينة
PHOTO: ADRIANA CC BY-NC 2.0
للوصول إل قلب الدينة ،ل ب ّد من فَهمِ سكّانها؛ وهل من سبيل إل ذلك أفضل وأمتع من استكشاف مطبخها الحلّ ؟ فالطعام لغة نتحدّثها جميعاً ،والطريقة التي يأكل فيها الناس تروي الكثي عن الكان الذي يعيشون فيه .وبا أ ّن شتوتغارت عاصمة الولية اللانيّة Baden-Württembergالعروفة بطبخها ،تقدّم لكل جزء من ألانيا لتذ ّوقي الطعام الجريئي فيضاً من الخياراتّ . خاصة وبا أ ّن شتوتغارت هي جزء من Swabia خلفيّة ثقافيّة ّ التاريخيّة – التي بالكاد ترتبط بولية Baden-Württemberg العصيّة – كان لها وق ٌع خاص. أشهر الطباق ف Swabiaغنيّة وسهلة ومثاليّة ف الشهر الكث برودة .من الطباق الريئة الرائعة Gaisburger marschالك ّون من مرق اللّحم والخضار؛ ننصح بتذ ّوقه ف مطعم Ochs’n Williف Kleiner Schlossplatzحيث يُقدّم مع أصابع البطاطا والبصل القل .من الطباق الكلسيكيّة الخرى ف قائة الطعام Kässpätzle ،وهو طبق شهي من
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