STUTTGART | ШТУТГАРТ | 斯图加特 | شتوتغارت
STUTTGART Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016
Page 44 SIGHTS OF STUTTGART: our guide reveals the city’s best
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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this dynamic German city. Stuttgart has much to ofer, as our guide on page 44 reveals. Readers who appreciate worldclass fashion will enjoy our feature on this season’s enticing nature-themed designs (page 26), and in this issue we also profle prestigious German brand Hugo Boss, known the world over for its tailoring (page 32). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Stuttgart. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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Welcome to Stuttgart
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EXKLUSIVES SHOPPINGERLEBNIS In der OUTLETCITY METZINGEN erwartet Sie mit über 70 Luxus- und Premiummarken ein exklusives Shoppingerlebnis der besonderen Art. Die Heimatstadt von Hugo Boss, nur 30 Minuten von Stuttgart entfernt, bietet Ihnen ein modernes innerstädtisches Einkaufsfair mit exklusiven Flagship Outlets und preisgekrönter Architektur. Das Beste: die Preise sind ganzjährig bis zu 70%* reduziert. 10% SHOPPING SPECIAL: Gegen Vorlage dieser Anzeige erhalten Sie in der Tourist Information Metzingen einen exklusiven Shopping Pass. Gültig bis 30.06.2016 (Sale-Phasen ausgeschlossen). * Gegenüber der ehemaligen unverbindlichen Preisempfehlung der Hersteller, soweit es eine solche gibt.
ARMANI . BALLY . BOSS . BURBERRY . COACH . DIANE VON FURSTENBERG . ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA . ESCADA . GUCCI . HACKETT . JIMMY CHOO . LORO PIANA . MAX MARA . MICHAEL KORS . MIU MIU . MISSONI . MONCLER . PORSCHE DESIGN . PRADA . TOD'S . TORY BURCH und viele mehr
In the mood for fashion?
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Stuttgart: Königstraße 47 • Milaneo, Mailänder Platz 7
Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.
هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟ ، ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة.C&A إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في.من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات.محلتنا . والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان
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ILLUSTRATION: ENRICA CASENTINI
CONTRIBUTORS
Stephen Doig SHOP’s former features editor Stephen Doig is now men’s style editor and assistant luxury editor at the Telegraph; he has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. His weaknesses include metallic Lanvin shoes, red wine and good cheese. globalblue.com
Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online, among other publications.
Enrica Casentini Enrica Casentini’s colourful, creative style made her the perfect choice to illustrate this season’s cover for SHOP Stuttgart, which shows the Killesberg observation tower pictured as a dress – the tower’s summit ofers one of the best views of the city. Read more about Stuttgart’s top attractions in our guide on page 44. As well as being an accomplished illustrator, Enrica is passionate about ceramics, and she creates unique pieces with clay and painted tiles. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Mónica R Goya Journalist and photographer Mónica R Goya is a senior picture assistant at SHOP. When she is not at work she is involved in supporting the principles of food justice. She loves to go hiking and to share a meal and conversation with family and friends.
BOGNER STUTTGART
Kรถnigstrasse 54
bogner.com
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Enrica Casentini Contributors Stephen Doig, Charlie Neidpath Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy
News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold
Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
AVP business development manager Patrice Janet
Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Stuttgart Marketing und Tourismus GmbH, Rotebühlplatz 25, 70178 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 22280, stuttgart-tourist.de
Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany Welcome to GALERIA Kaufhof Stuttgart at Königstrasse located directly at the main station. Attractive departments filled with elegant fashion, the largest selection of lingerie in Stuttgart, sports items, children’s goods and household linen invite you to linger and browse around. We recommend a visit to our exclusive perfumery, accessories, choice jewellery watches and high-quality household goods. Enjoy our top service in an environment where shopping really a pleasure is. We accept all major credit cards. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof. We also offer the service City Refund and pay out all your German Tax Free Forms.
Free WLAN in our store!
Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Stuttgart, Königstrasse.
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
galeria-kaufhof.de
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CONTENTS
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
p.32
Products
Experience
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Stuttgart this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
Guide 44
News 20 22
Shop Window One store not to be missed in Stuttgart News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Features 26
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The Nature Of Fashion From bold animal motifs to twists on classic florals, designers are looking to the natural world for inspiration this season. It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather, says Stephen Doig In Focus: Hugo Boss This prestigious German fashion brand boasts an impressive heritage – and its sights remain firmly fixed on the horizons ahead, as Charlie Neidpath discovers
Above: Boss spring/summer 2016
Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Stuttgart
Essentials 53
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations 54 Русский Перевод 59 美文翻译 65
Souvenir 66
The essential item to bring home
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CHECK OUT
LITTLE THINGS, BIG IDEAS You can’t fail to look chic when you combine black with rose gold, especially when it comes to jewellery or watches – as in this Estelle timepiece with cut-out wrist strap from Belgian watch and sunglasses brand Komono. Komono is the Japanese for ‘little things’ and the brand is dedicated to creating high-quality, well-crafted accessories for the global citizen. Komono frequently collaborates with other international Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
designers, such as Baloji and Happy Socks. Its Core collection presents original accessories with authentic designs; the Crafted collection offers premium-level, high-end, carefully made accessories; and Komono Curated is a series of capsule collections and artist collaborations that explores new frontiers and moves the brand into museums and concerts and onto fashion catwalks. fm Komono Estelle watch, €89.95, Fledge, Bolzstrasse 6, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2804 1030, komono.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 47
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CITY EXPLORER Summer-appropriate attire and accessories for a day in town
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1. Porsche Design backpack, €1,295, Porsche Design, Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 5188 9177, porsche-design.com
4. Diesel jeans, €270, Yeans Halle, Königstrasse 3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9334 7420, diesel.com
2. Benetton shoes, €44.95, United Colours of Benetton, Königstrasse 10C, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 540 9721, benetton.com
5. Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza fragrance, 180ml, €139, Douglas, Königstrasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2599 8000, acquadiparma.com
3. Tag Heuer watch, €2,300, Juwelier Kutter, Königstrasse 46, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 290460, tagheuer.com
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ZEST FOR ORANGE This summery tone lends itself to many different styles
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1. Marc Cain turtle neck top, €199.90, Marc Cain, Calwer Strasse 33, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 223 5270, marc-cain.com 2. Sportmax shoes, €389, Max Mara, Kronprinzstrasse 6, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9071 2940, sportmax.com
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3. Pomellato Nudo pendant, €1,500, Juwelier von Hofen, Calwer Strasse 42, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 296719, pomellato.com 4. Nomos watch, €2,660, Christ, Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2484 7340, nomos-glashuette.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
5. Chanel blusher, €57, Mussler, Am Höhenpark 4, 70192 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 251266, chanel.com
PHOTOS: (1) ESHOT BERLIN; (4) HOLGER WENS; (5) JACQUES GIRAL
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6. Swarovski Distinct bangle, €99, Swarovski, Königstrasse 36, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 120 9580, swarovski.com
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7. CentSeize bag, €649, Maison, Fluxus, Calwer Passage, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 5764 6372, centseize.com
9. Max Mara sunglasses, €195, Max Mara, Kronprinzstrasse 6, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 9071 2940, maxmara.com
8. De Grisogono ring, €46,700, Juwelier Kutter, Königstrasse 46, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 290460, degrisogono.com
10. Airfield skirt, €229, Airfeld, Königstrasse 25, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 5853 9998, airfeld.at
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SHOP WINDOW
HOOKED ON DESIGN When it comes to interior design with an individual edge, there’s nowhere quite like the Hook & Eye home furniture store. The first Hook & Eye concept boutique in Stuttgart was so successful that the company has opened a second branch in the city. Unlike the main store on Hauptstätter Strasse, which specialises in upcycled mid-century furniture, the shop in Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
the Gerber mall focuses mostly on accessories such as pillows, bags and stationery. In addition to products designed in-house, visitors will also find coffee table books, kitchenware and home decoration by popular brands such as Normann Copenhagen and Pols Potten. th Hook & Eye, Gerber, Sophienstrasse 21, 70178 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 6744 6661, hookandeye.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
PHOTO: BART POGODA
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RESERVED FOR STUTTGART The new Reserved store in Stuttgart, the Polish clothing brand’s largest branch, covers nearly 4,000 square metres and opened just a year after the company made its debut in Germany. The three-storey building houses Reserved’s collections of menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and accessories. Reserved has become a go-to destination for basics, and, with over 137,000 products to choose from, visitors to the Stuttgart emporium are spoiled for choice. There are more than 80 Reserved employees on hand to assist customers, ensuring a smooth shopping experience. th Reserved, Königstrasse 5, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 7223 9290, reserved.com
IN BRIEF The Studiotique concept store on Schlosserstrasse stocks a wide range of stationery, gifts, fashion and jewellery. Known for its sophisticated selection of designers, the shop is a must-visit
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 46
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
HAPPY THOUGHTS German luxury jeweller Wellendorff is spreading an upbeat message this season. The brand explores happiness in its recent Moments of Delight collection. Rings are crafted in yellow or white gold, and the tactile inner section of the band is easy to turn, encouraging the wearer to play with the mechanism and lose themselves in thought. This mindful concept links to the brand’s previous collection Genuine Delight, and some favourite pieces have been reinterpreted for spring. Prices for the rings pictured above start at €4,900. rd Wellendorff, Kirchstrasse 6C, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 860 2882, wellendorff.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
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NATURAL SELECTION Danish fashion brand Selected opened a 198-square-metre store in Stuttgart’s Gerber shopping centre in October 2015. As befits a brand steeped in Scandinavian design aesthetics, the shop’s interiors use simple brass features combined with wood flooring. Selected offers an exclusive and unique range of menswear and womenswear, and the store has become a go-to destination for fashion-savvy Stuttgart locals
and visitors. Since launching in 1997, Selected has made a name for itself as a purveyor of high-quality clothing with a Danish twist. This season, those seeking elegant, wearable basics should look no further than the new Selected store in the Gerber building. th Selected, Gerber, Sophienstrasse 21, 70178 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 6648 7259, selected.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
PHOTO: ANDREAS KÖRNER
PARK LIFE
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InteriorPark, a stunning interior design store in central Stuttgart, has become a go-to address for design afcionados since it opened in October 2015. The company, which is committed to sustainability, started as a design agency but soon developed into a bricksand-mortar store thanks to its interdisciplinary team of experts. Customers can browse an exciting range of chairs, tables, beds, lamps, homeware and much more in a comfortable 200-squaremetre setting. The store also hosts talks and events by design industry leaders ‒ be sure to book ahead as these sell out fast. th InteriorPark, Stephanstrasse 30, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 7616 0866, interiorpark.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 46
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FOR THE BOYS MRQT, designed by Swiss architecture frm Rippmann Oesterle Knauss, is one of Stuttgart’s most exciting menswear stores; its stunning interior design includes 22,000 wooden sticks that protrude from the walls to create an illusion of movement, while the cement foor and contrasting clean, white walls allow the products to stand out. MRQT carries on-trend streetwear brands such as Black Scale, Raised by Wolves, Norse Projects and Billionaire Boys Club. Fashion fans should not miss this hip and engagingly striking boutique. th MRQT, Paulinenstrasse 44, 70178 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 4898 1694, mrqt.net
CASE SOLVED German luxury luggage brand Rimowa, which was founded in 1898, has built a global reputation for its luxury aluminium and polycarbonate cases. This Topas Cabin Multiwheel model (€609) weighs only 4.8 kilos, but has a capacity of 34 litres. Shown here in stylish silver, the case also boasts Rimowa’s height-adjustable interior Flex-Divider system for maximum convenience when packing and unpacking. Topas cases feature integrated Transportation Security Administration combination locks as well as a leverage lock, ensuring high security. Originally designed for the tropics, the aluminiummagnesium shell is as durable as it is recognisable – and the silent wheels make for an efortless journey through the airport and beyond. th
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 53
Breuninger, Marktstrasse 1-3, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 211 1141, rimowa.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
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TIME FOR TEA The English Tearoom, founded by English couple Lynn and Christian Hazlewood, is a tea shop with a diference. Its owners scour the globe for the fnest teas and the best specialist equipment in which to brew the drink. They are passionate about the health benefts of a good cup of tea, and their breadth of knowledge enables them to help their customers make the right choice. Alongside standard blends such as Earl Grey and English Breakfast, the store carries interesting favours such as Regency Blend. It also sells a wide range of teaware and gifts. Tea enthusiasts should look out for the in-store seminars. th The English Tearoom, Weissenburgstrasse 29, 70180 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 5187 4006, the-english-tearoom.de globalblue.com
A NEW VOLUME Stuttgart-based clothing brand Trinitas works entirely in monochrome black, white and grey. The brand refers to its collections as ‘volumes’ and each is designated by a Roman numeral: previous volumes include X, IX and VII and the latest is VI. The brand’s well-thought-out basics are far from ordinary, with every detail, including
stitching, zips and waistbands, carefully considered. Volume VI comprises casual shorts, T-shirts and sweaters in charcoal grey marl. The T-shirt pictured is €80 and the sweatshirt is €120. Product quality is a Trinitas priority and this shows on the shelf. rd Fledge, Bolzstrasse 6, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 2804 1030, trinitas-clothing.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 47
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
THE
NATURE From bold animal motifs to twists on classic forals, designers are looking to the natural world for inspiration this season. It’s the perfect trend for warmer weather, says Stephen Doig
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FASHION Lef: Gucci spring/summer 2016
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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rom the verdant foliage of the Killesberg park in Stuttgart to the internationally renowned Herrenhäusen gardens in Hanover to Berlin’s Tiergarten and Munich’s 900-acre Englischer Garten, Germany’s cities burst into life-affirming greenery in springtime. Germany’s parks form a rich part of its city landscapes, all the more striking when they are juxtaposed with gleaming highrise skyscrapers and sculptural architecture. With spring also heralding a change for our wardrobes, it’s heartening to note that designers are bringing the outside in, infusing our style repertoire with pieces that embrace the botanical, the blooming and the wild. Designers often mine the aesthetics of the natural world for the spring/summer season. But what’s remarkable about this spring’s offering, across menswear, womenswear and accessories, is the especially exciting, vibrant, fresh interpretation of the natural world. 54 /
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A host of German designers have joined in this season’s celebration of all things wild and wonderful ‘It was about a clash of cultures,’ said Kim Jones backstage at his spring/summer 2016 menswear show for Louis Vuitton. The collection married eastern and western aesthetics. ‘It was about vintage Americana alongside influences from Asia,’ explained Jones. This coming together was expressed Above (from lef): Louis Vuiton; Gucci, both spring/summer 2016
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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by interpreting tropical forms of nature from far-flung, exotic locales. Jones is known as an intrepid traveller, and his designs saw storks swooping over silk bombers and shirting, cherry blossoms erupting into bloom, and capuchin monkeys peering out curiously from bamboo fronds; all to joyous effect. Jones consistently finds new ways to inject life and colour into his men’s collections, an area of fashion that generally veers towards the safe and standard rather than the bold and printed. ‘I think there’s definitely a push towards vibrant, vivid prints and a greater sense of adventure in how we dress,’ says Bill Prince, Above (from lef): Marc Jacobs; Gucci; Aigner; Jil Sander, all spring/summer 2016
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
deputy editor of British GQ. ‘Botanical prints and imagery of that ilk undoubtedly feed in to that.’ Who needs a tropical trek through the jungle when you can gain a sense of adventure through Kim Jones’s impeccable menswear? At Gucci, Alessandro Michele continued to revolutionise the menswear landscape with his fluid, feminine designs, interpreted using the power of nature. Embroidered bouquets wound their way up suits, garlands were stitched onto lace around necklines, butterflies fluttered over sweaters and rainbow-bright stems, stalks, petals and stamens were blown up and printed onto suits. It was a similar story at Marc Jacobs,
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PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
who dappled silk pyjama suits and shirts with blossoms and dashes of leopard print. Germany’s designers were not to be outdone; a host of them joined in the celebration of all things wild and wonderful. At historical German house Aigner, florals were realised in jacquard, lending them a three-dimensional quality. Creative director Christian Beck, in an innovative move, took his cue fraom under the sea, with starfish, crabs, tentacles, seaweed and shells picked out in lace. At Jil Sander, men’s shirting and shorts were dotted with tiny blooms, in a rare burst of frivolity for a brand known for its minimalist aesthetic.
Our wardrobes are increasingly technical, not just in their fabrication but in their construction, design and print. This move away from all things sophisticated and city-centric towards the outdoors, nature and animal life perhaps speaks to our desire to connect with that increasingly distant part of the world in some small form. Whatever the reason, these nature-inspired prints and motifs lend a hint of wit and whimsy to even the most standard piece – what could raise more of a smile than a merry capuchin peering out from the undergrowth? Embrace the call of the wild this season. Your wardrobe will thank you
PHOTO: BOSS
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IN FOCUS:
HUGO BOSS This prestigious German brand, known the world over for its suiting, boasts an impressive heritage – and its sights remain frmly fxed on the horizons ahead, as Charlie Neidpath discovers
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ugo Boss’s striking headquarters in Metzingen are the embodiment of the brand’s ethos. While its location adheres to the chocolate-box ideal of a quintessential German town, with half-timbered façades and medieval spires, the brand’s nerve centre is a gleaming glass and steel structure set among gardens manicured with exacting precision: a bastion of stark modernity against tradition. This description could be applied to the Hugo Boss label itself, as the brand has become renowned for its fresh, contemporary style in a market that hasn’t historically been at the forefront of
Opposite page: Boss spring/summer 2016
the fashion industry. Despite Karl Lagerfeld’s German origins and the dominance of sportswear brands Adidas and Puma, Germany cannot quite match the style prestige of the UK, France and Italy. Hugo Boss has always sought to change that. The brand was launched as a small clothing company in 1924; its eponymous founder faced various obstacles, including a bankruptcy which left the entrepreneur with only six sewing machines to his name. Against the odds, this committed businessman went on to steadily build the brand. Today, just
over 90 years since it was founded, Hugo Boss has grown into one of the world’s largest and most successful fashion brands, with a portfolio encompassing numerous ranges under the Hugo and Boss labels, products ranging from bespoke suiting to fragrances, and an international network of over 1,000 stores. Though styles have changed over the years and the brand has adapted with signature German pragmatism, it’s been the working wardrobe that has come to define Hugo Boss’s fashion identity. In 1950, the house started creating men’s suiting and developed innovative ways to produce off-the-rack tailored items – a powerful skill in an era where creating a suit of quality was generally a painstaking process. A real flair for catering to the businessman – and, later, businesswoman – has been an underlying influence on everything Hugo Boss has designed over the years, including its high fashion offerings, and the brand’s universal appeal can be seen in its ability to adapt the Boss signature style to suit multiple markets. Above (from top): Hugo Boss headquarters in Metzingen; Jason Wu, the brand’s womenswear creative director
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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PHOTO: BOSS
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Above (from left): two looks from Boss spring/summer 2016
Catwalk collections strike a contemporary note with sleek suiting, impeccable tailoring, narrow cuts and single-breasted shapes. With the founding of the Boss diffusion line in 1970, the label expanded its reach, making its wares available to those who might previously have found the cost of luxury clothing prohibitive. In 1998, the house’s womenswear collection made its debut, boldly addressing the emerging trend for power dressing: shift dresses and elegant, sleek, feminine suiting spoke clearly to a new audience. Today, the label is more current and dynamic than ever. This is largely thanks to the deft hand of New York-based designer Jason Wu, who has brought the trademark Hugo Boss refinement and sophistication firmly into the modern day. Wu, creative director of womenswear since 2013, has steered the line into a territory that’s both glamorous and directional. A young, contemporary designer renowned for his low-key glamour might seem like an odd fit for a 91-year-old German
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Hugo Boss is a company with its sights set firmly on the horizon
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
heritage brand, but he has become a household name. When US First Lady Michelle Obama chose to wear a Jason Wu creation at her husband’s inaugural ball in 2009, she cemented Wu’s reputation as a master of understated elegance, making him the perfect figurehead for a brand that has spent nine decades perfecting a similar aesthetic. When approached by Hugo Boss chief brand officer Christoph Auhagen to take on the role, Wu’s first thought was ‘why me?’. ‘It seemed like the oddest match,’ he has said. ‘I thought of Boss as a menswear brand and I wasn’t super-knowledgeable about the women’s
Above (from top): Boss spring/summer 2016; models show the collection on the catwalk
side, which is only 15 years old.’ Wu was won over in part by the bold modernity of the Boss headquarters in Metzingen, which he describes as ‘like the set of the movie Gattaca’ – and the deal was sealed. Since joining the label, Wu has already added a sharpness and a sense of cool. His latest collection features ice-white layers and blouses, muted grey and dove-toned dresses, sleek black minimalist gowns and soft yellow racer-back tops and dresses. If more proof were needed that Hugo Boss is literally going places, in autumn 2015 the label sponsored a branded racing yacht. The boat, which features graphic design by esteemed industrial designer Konstantin Grcic, will take part in the 2016 Vendée Globe yacht race, skippered by record-breaking sailor Alex Thomson. With Wu as creative director, an ever-increasing range of products and stores, and now this new nautical endeavour, it’s tempting to describe Hugo Boss as a brand which is sailing ahead. Trite as this may sound, however, it is nonetheless true – this is a company with its sights set firmly on the horizon
PHOTO: MARK LLOYD/LLOYD IMAGES/AT RACING ALEX THOMPSON BOAT
PHOTO: BOSS
S H O P | 37
Above (from top): an earlier Boss menswear design, from the autumn/winter 2014/15 collection; the Hugo Boss racing yacht in action
38 | E X P E R I E N C E
STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
REGENT BERLIN Ideally located in the heart of the German capital, close to Gendarmenmarkt square and Berlin’s famous Brandenburg Gate, Regent Berlin is perfect for anyone looking for true luxury in this bustling city. Even the most seasoned traveller will be impressed by the high standards set at this hotel, which offers 195 rooms and suites, state-of-the-art conference globalblue.com
rooms and equipment, and a service that is second to none. Be sure to sample the delicious fare on offer at Fischers Fritz, which has two Michelin stars and is one of Berlin’s finest eateries. The venue specialises in exquisite fish and seafood dishes, though it has something for every taste, and even offers private dining rooms for business meetings or special occasions. Regent Berlin, Charlottenstrasse 49, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 20338, regenthotels.com/berlin
PHOTO: ENGIN AYDENIZ
S H O P | 39
SOHO HOUSE ISTANBUL Soho House Istanbul has taken over Palazzo Corpi, one of the most historic and beautiful buildings in the BeyoÄ&#x;lu area of the city. The palace was commissioned in 1873 by wealthy Italian shipbuilder Ignazio Corpi, and built using the finest materials, including Carrara marble; renowned artists were invited to depict
Greek mythological scenes in the entrance hall and on the ceilings of the Great Hall. The building was acquired by the Soho House Group in 2014 and has been meticulously restored and impeccably designed to create an impressively grand and irresistibly cool venue. Soho House Istanbul, Evliya Celebi Mahallesi, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 56, BeyoÄ&#x;lu, Istanbul, +90 (0)212 377 7100, sohohouseistanbul.com
PHOTO: © 2015 WALDORF ASTORIA
40 | E X P E R I E N C E
WALDORF ASTORIA AMSTERDAM Positioned on Herengracht, one of Amsterdam’s best-known canals, the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam combines Dutch style and history with the luxury and attention to detail for which Waldorf Astoria hotels are known worldwide. The hotel is in a former merchant’s house with plenty of spacious, light-filled rooms providing views of the adjacent canal and of the house’s globalblue.com
pleasant courtyard garden. For those looking for particularly spacious accommodation, the distinctive Brentano Suite possesses its own dining room, study and walk-in closet. Afternoon tea is served in the refined surroundings of the hotel’s Peacock Alley, gourmets will enjoy De Librije restaurant, which holds three Michelin stars, and the cosy Vault Bar is the ideal place for a nightcap. Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, Herengracht 542-556, 1017 CG Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 718 4600, hilton.com/amsterdam
PHOTO: GERRIT MEIER
S H O P | 41
HYATT REGENCY DÜSSELDORF The Hyatt Regency in Düsseldorf’s stylish Mediahafen district provides an efficient service for business and leisure travellers alike. It is conveniently placed for the airport as well as for the city centre and exhibition centres. The 19-floor hotel’s concept was designed by well-known Dutch interior design company FG Stijl and deftly combines warm colours
with glass and natural light. Inside the 290 guest rooms are flat-screen televisions and spacious rain showers. As well as serving classic European dishes, the hotel’s DOX restaurant includes an authentic Japanese sushi bar, while a relaxed atmosphere can be enjoyed in Café D. Hyatt Regency Düsseldorf, Speditionstrasse 19, 40221 Dusseldorf, +49 (0)211 9134 1234, dusseldorf.regency.hyatt.com
PHOTO: MATTIAS HAMREN & JASON STRONG
42 | E X P E R I E N C E
THE THIEF Since its opening in 2013, the Thief has built a global reputation for cutting-edge design. The hotel’s permanent art collection is overseen by Sune Nordgren, the founding director of the National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design in Oslo. As a result, guests enjoy the benefit of expertly selected original artwork in their rooms as well as free access to the Astrup Fearnley museum of modern art, which is located next door. The Thief cost more per room to build globalblue.com
than any hotel in Scandinavia and its pedigree is clear in the 118 stylish rooms and the awardwinning penthouse suite with its own rooftop terrace. Each room is filled with details to make your stay special, from custom-designed bathrobes to blankets to keep you warm while you take in the view from your balcony. Sample some of the best cocktails Oslo has to offer in the hotel bar, where mixology is treated as an art form: fresh fruit is dehydrated daily in-house, and even the ice cubes are hand cut. The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo, +47 2400 4000, thethief.com
PHOTO: VICTORIA GIBBS
S H O P | 43
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON AMSTERDAM CENTRAAL STATION Located in the city centre, very close to the main station, DoubleTree by Hilton Amsterdam Centraal Station is a convenient and stylish choice. Every detail reiterates DoubleTree’s commitment to a seamless and enjoyable experience: expect a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie on arrival and an iMac in
your room. The 557 guest rooms each boast floor-to-ceiling windows, so spectacular views come as standard. Head to the SkyLounge on the 11th floor for light food and barista-made coffee, and in the evening enjoy cocktails and listening to live DJs. Other eating and drinking options include the City Café, Eastwood restaurant, and the lobby bar, which is also the location for Holland’s only 24-hour library. DoubleTree by Hilton Amsterdam Centraal Station, Oosterdoksstraat 4, 1011 DK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 530 0800, amsterdam.doubletree.com
44 | G U I D E
THE GUIDE
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Stuttgart with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a top-class jeweller to a charming store for children. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/stuttgart.
PHOTO: © SMG/WERNER DIETERICH
A Glimpse Of Stuttgart
Above: Stuttgart’s Schlossplatz square is a green space in the heart of the city
S H O P | 45
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46 | G U I D E
WEMPE Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eyecatching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave.
Wempe, Königstrasse 41, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 223 8090, wempe.com
Königstrasse
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DM-DROGERIE MARKT ● BAHNHOFAPOTHEKE ● Galeria CONRAD ● Karstadt Sport THE NORTH FACE ● KauÄof MAMMUT ● ● MANGO ● UNDIZ SPORTSCHECK ● ● ADIDAS MAGAZIN ● HALLHUBER ● ● H&M WOMEN BIJOU MANUFACTUM ● ● DESIGUAL BRIGITTE ● BUFFALO ● ZARA ● MANGO ●
Peek & Cloppenburg
H&M ● KULT ● APOLLO OPTIK ● NEW YORKER ● TKMAXX ● GÖRTZ 17 ● KOELBLE & BRUNOTTE ● TALLY WEIJL ● HUT HANNE ● MAGNUS VILLING ● BRILLEN KRATZMANN ● LAUFMANN ●
P.23 INTERIORPARK ●
● GÖRTZ ● MÜLLER ● RESERVED
P.22
● ONLY
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SELECTED STORES IN KÖNIGSBAU PASSAGEN: Apotheke Königsbau E Bang & OlufsenA S S TR Dirk Rossmann GS R E Douglas SB I E G Shoes Evita KR G-Star Raw Kästner Optik Krass Optik Lederwaren Acker Mandarina Duck More & More Möve Nanu Nana Nile Olymp Olymp & Hades Podium Prime Shoes Quiksilver Rossamora Saturn Sovrano Strauss Innovation Wolsdorff Tobacco
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Global Blue Retailer
NS
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Königsbau Passagen
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
Department Store
S H O P | 47
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RENÉ LEZARD ● BUCHHANDLUNG KONRAD WITTWER ● SE M MAX MARA ● NA ● SIDESTEP SI Schillerplatz ESPRIT ● UM ST STRENESSE ● R. ● PUMKIE RUNNERS POINT ● ● GEOX SWAROVSKI ● ● NEW YORKER ● HUGO BOSS H&M ● LA NG YVES ROCHER ● ES TIMBERLAND ● TR ● MASSIMO DUTTI AS DOUGLAS ● SE ● FRIEDO FRIER JUWELIERE VON HOFEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER MAUTE-BENGER ● ● SPORT ARENA UHR24 - SWATCH ● TRITSCHLER ● COS ● BETTY BARCLAY ● ● ROLAND SCHUHE S OLIVER ● ● WMF JUWELIER E KUTTER ● ● ORSAY M PANDORA ● AR ● DEUTSCHE TELEKOM CHRIST ● ● SCHLOSS-PARFÜMERIE AESOP ● KT ZARA ● RO ST ● SHOE TOWN WERDICH ● DEICHMANN TE BOGNER ● BÜ SE PROMOD ● S H RA TALLY WEIJL ● ● WEMPE LP VERO MODA ● LA ● ZERO TZ ● O2 GERRY WEBER ● SNIPES TEXTIL ● ● H&M MEN ● MUSSLER PRO OPTIK AUGENOPTIK ● ● BABY-WALZ FIELMANN ● TOM TAILOR ● ● SALAMANDER INTERNATIONALE APOTHEKE ● ● BLUTSGESCHWISTER P.66 ● TCHIBO GY
TH
H
R ST
CONRAD Choosing the right electronic and technology products can be a bit of a minefield, but specialist retailer Conrad is known for its practical solutions. Well equipped to deal with the needs of both businesses and individuals, Conrad stocks many premium technology brands, including Apple, Microsoft, Philips and Samsung. The company has stores across Germany and is renowned for its knowledgeable members of staff, who will be on hand to help you whether you’re looking for a new tablet or a power-tool kit. Conrad, Kronenstrasse 7, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)9604 408789, conrad.de Train Station
Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
48 | G U I D E
PHOTO: SELIG-FOTODESIGN/FLORIAN SELIG
LOCAL TIP
Stuttgart’s Altes Schloss (old castle) is situated in the city centre; a castle has stood in the same spot since around the year 950. The building, renovated in 1969, is now home to the Württemberg State Museum, which provides a cultural break from a busy day of shopping.
7F M OR AS A L SIM LM O D EC A N K U T T KE IN I ● RL D ● UL E● IK ● L ● HU R N B U’ O C O E E C H HO GO C N G I T C K T● LL BO ● A IS S ES AL NE L ● LO TE S ● C A OW ● NG R M DA ● ON CH ● ● TB AM LO P LA UI NC S VU IT TO N
Calwer Strasse & Kronprinzstrasse, Marktplatz, Kirchstrasse, Stiftstrasse & Eberhardstrasse
MEISSEN ●
SP
BREE COLLECTION ● INTERSPORT BREITMEYER ●
R.
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BUTLERS ● CHARLOTTE EHINGER-SCHWARZ ● LLOYD ●
TR
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MARC O’POLO ●
SE
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● CRABTREE & EVELYN ● CALWER 13 MODE SPORTIF ● OPTIK MARTIN
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BUNGALOW ● SE ● WURSTER SCHUHHAUS D Karlsplatz ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS OR ● LUDWIG REITER OT ● ESCADA TR HE I EN S ● MARINA RINALDI ● WELLENDORFF P.22 CH ST HA TSC RA SS ● PANDORA UF HL UL ● SØR E MONSOON LE ER S M ● GOLDEN EYES TR A R ● JUWELIER VON ACCESSORIZE ● R A ● MARC CAIN HOFEN ● ● BASLER TAMARIS ● A S S K T M M ● PETIT BATEAU ● E A R ● SPIELWAREN KURTZ HORST WANSCHURA ● JUWELIER SCHUMACHER ● K T ● NESPRESSO S T ● BINDER OPTIK WOLFORD ● ● THOMAS SABO STUTTGARTER HABITAT● ● SCHUHHAUS BLETZINGER WEIHNACHTSMARKT SCOTCH & Breuninger P.24 SELECTED ● SODA
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STORES IN BREUNINGER: Christ Cartier Gravis Porsche Design Tiffany & Co
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● TAUSCHE
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
Department Store
S H O P | 49
BADEN-BADEN Langestrasse, Sophienstrasse & Lichtentaler Strasse ● WAGENER GALERIE
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DID YOU KNOW?
Sigikid fulfils your child’s every need, from clothes to toys. In operation for over 45 years, this family-run German business is known for its fantastic range of soft and cuddly toys, in addition to high-quality clothing and accessories. Expect a wide and innovative selection of products, all made with Sigikid’s characteristic attention to detail. Sigikid, Breite Strasse 2, 70173 Stuttgart, +49 (0)711 7223 0976, sigikid.de
Place Of Interest
AS
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● B THOMA
SIGIKID
Bar
TI G STR
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Featured In This Issue
Stuttgart has had vineyards since 3AD and is the only German city with a municipal wine estate, which covers 17.5 hectares. Wine festivals are held here throughout the year.
50 | G U I D E
DAY TRIP WERTHEIM VILLAGE Wertheim Village, located 90 minutes from Stuttgart city centre, plays host to more than 110 designer boutiques from both German and international labels. The Village’s traditional scallop-tiled roofing and turrets echo nearby vineyard-clad hills and local villages.
A3 Wertheim Village
A81
A81
A81
STUTTGART
Outlet Village
Wertheim Village, Almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim, +49 (0)9342 919 9100, wertheimvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com
A3
WÜRZBERG
OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sundays & public holidays: closed For special opening times please visit the website
HOW TO GET THERE... By car From Stuttgart, take the A81 towards Würzburg. At Würzburg Kist, change to the A3 towards Frankfurt. Take exit 66 Wertheim/Lengfurt for Wertheim Village. The drive takes approximately 90 minutes from Stuttgart city centre.
S H O P | 51
PERFECT DAY
10am Start your day at German label Drykorn. The brand is known for setting the trends; expect bright colours, bold prints and a high-quality finish. 11am Lagerfeld’s boutique offers the complete ready-to-wear men’s collection and range of accessories, all infused with Karl Lagerfeld’s signature style.
DON’T MISS…
1pm Stop for a lunch break at Prime. The restaurant serves a range of high-quality dishes including burgers, fresh salads and daily specials, served in an urban-chic environment.
FIVE-STAR SERVICES The village offers a range of VIP services including:
Wi-Fi • Free parking • Free personal shopper (on request) • ATourist information • A children’s playground •
3pm Steiff’s trademark ear button makes its high-quality teddy bears instantly recognisable. The Steiff range also includes dogs, cats and pigs.
SHOPPING PACKAGES Various packages are available at the Village, which can be booked via the Village’s website. Services can include:
tickets to the Village on the Shopping Express • Return luxury coach Wertheim Village Shopping Card to be spent • atA €a25boutique of your choice at the Village exclusive gift • An with small soft drink at La Piazza restaurant • Lunch at the Village
®
6pm End your day by admiring the craftsmanship displayed in Bally’s exquisite leather goods collection. Pieces offer the highest quality as well as contemporary styling.
52 | G U I D E
OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)
DAY TRIP OUTLETCITY METZINGEN Located near renowned German high fashion label Hugo Boss’s headquarters, Outletcity Metzingen is one of Europe’s most popular outlet centres.
With over 70 top international brands available at reductions of up to 70%, the stylish centre attracts 3.5 million visitors per year.
Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com
STUTTGART
STUTTGART CENTRAL STATION
METZINGEN WÜRTT
Outletcity Metzingen B28
L230 A8
A8
HOW TO GET THERE... By car From Stuttgart take the B27 and exit on to the B312, signposted Metzingen. Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.
By train There is a train from Stuttgart to Metzingen every 30 minutes. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes. The outlet is a few minutes’ walk from Metzingen station.
By Shopping Shuttle A convenient special bus takes visitors from Stuttgart to the outlet and back four times a day every Thursday, Friday and Saturday.
PERFECT DAY 10am Start your day perusing the sportswear on offer at Peak Performance; the label is well known for combining practicality and style.
2pm The ready-to-wear collection available at Hugo Boss strikes the perfect balance between fashion and functionality, underpinned with German design.
12pm Take a break and enjoy a lunchtime pause at Keim Bakery, which offers refreshments from freshly made sandwiches to delicious coffee and cake.
4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces classic, feminine pieces which exude elegance – the designer’s printed wrap dress is an iconic wardrobe staple.
Outlet Village Above: xxxxxxxxxx
Train Station
6pm End your trip at Samsonite. This esteemed luggage manufacturer is known for offering quality, durability and surprisingly lightweight suitcases.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
2. Claim
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: The Nature Of Fashion
Природа Моды
От королевских садов Ганновера до берлинского парка Тиргартен и Английского сада в Мюнхене, протянувшегося более чем на четыре квадратных километра, – немецкие города с приходом весны начинает утопать в изумрудной зелени. Насаждения составляют большую часть ландшафтов немецких городов, контрастируя с зеркальными небоскребами и живописной архитектурой. По мере того, как весна все глубже проникает в сердца и души, дизайнеры готовят цветочную революцию для нашего гардероба, главной темой которой будет природа и растительный мир. Это уже не первый раз, когда модельеры черпают вдохновение для весенне-летних коллекций в эстетике природы. Что отличает модные коллекций этого сезона, так это особая свежесть и яркость передачи образов. «В центре внимания было столкновение культур», – сказал Ким Джонс за кулисами своего шоу-показа мужской коллекции весна-лето 2016 для Louis Vuitton. Коллекция объединила в себе восточную и западную эстетику. «Американское ретро тесно пересекалось с элементами азиатской культуры», – поясняет Джонс. Выразить такое единение континентов помогли тропические образы из далеких экзотических местностей. Джонс известен своей страстью к путешествиям, и, как следствие, его шелковые рубашки и куртки globalblue.com
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
В этом сезоне дизайнеры обратились за вдохновением к природе, сосредоточив внимание на анималистических мотивах и классических цветочных узорах, которые получили современную интерпретацию. Для теплой погоды этот тренд просто идеален, – считает Стивен Дойг
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Sander покрылись мириадами крошечных цветов, нарушивших давнюю минималистскую эстетику бренда. Наш гардероб становится все более технологически совершенным, и дело не только в тканях, но и в конструкции, дизайне и принтах. Новая тенденция, оставляющая позади замысловатые урбанистические элементы и отсылающая к открытому воздуху, природе и миру животных, похоже, говорит о нашем желании хоть как-то воссоединиться с той частью мира, которая все больше от нас ускользает. Как бы там ни было, природные мотивы смогут привнести долю остроумия и фантазии даже в самый простой предмет гардероба. Кто сможет остаться равнодушным при виде милого капуцина, удивленно выглядывающего из зарослей? Откликнетесь ли вы на зов природы в этом сезоне, зависит только от вас.
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
бомберы пестрили изображениями летящих аистов, цветущих вишен и милых обезьян, выглядывающих из бамбуковых зарослей. Джонс продолжает искать новые способы сделать мужские коллекции более яркими и жизнерадостными в противовес многим консерваторам моды, боящимся выйти за рамки стандартов и традиций. «Мне кажется, что наша манера одеваться заметно сместилась в сторону красочных принтов и приобрела более авантюрный оттенок, – говорит Билл Принц, заместитель главного редактора английского GQ. – Цветочные и анималистские узоры явное тому доказательство». Зачем отправляться в рискованные путешествия по тропикам, если коллекции Ким Джонс могут подарить обладателю настоящий дух приключений? Gucci и Алессандро Микеле продолжают работать над мужским гардеробом, представляя плавные линии и природные образы. На пиджаках теснятся вышитые букеты, воротники пестрят гирляндными лентами, на свитерах с радужными швами гнездятся тропические бабочки, а костюмы усеяны стебельками, бутонами и тычинками. Похожая картина наблюдалась у Марка Джекобса, который оживил шелковые пижамные костюмы и рубашки красочными соцветиями и леопардовым принтом. Немецкие дизайнеры нисколько не уступили своим коллегам, а многие из них сами поддались очарованию «цветочного безумия». Модный дом Hugo Boss переосмыслил цветочные узоры в коллекциях женской одежды, добавив сизые и серые тона для контраста с пастельными оттенками и яркими пятнами абстрактных принтов. Немецкий бренд Aigner воплотил флористику в жаккардовых тканях, создающих эффект трехмерности. Креативный директор Кристиан Бэк в свойственной ему инновационной манере создал кружевной коктейль из морских звезд, крабов, осьминогов, водорослей и раковин. Мужские рубашки и шорты Jil
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32: In Focus: Hugo Boss
В фокусе: Hugo Boss
Немецкий модный дом Hugo Boss, костюмы которого известны на весь мир, бережно хранит свою впечатляющую историю и традиции, но при этом устремлен в будущее, – рассказывает Чарли Нейдпат Стильная штаб-квартира Hugo Boss в Метцингене полностью отражает характер этого бренда. Она находится в идиллическом немецком городе, полном традиционных бревенчатых фасадов и средневековых шпилей. Однако само здание представляет собой современную конструкцию из стекла и стали, окруженную тщательно ухоженными садами. Это настоящий бастион современности на фоне globalblue.com
традиции. То же самое можно сказать и о бренде Hugo Boss: он завоевал репутацию благодаря актуальному свежему подходу в той сфере, где Германия никогда не была в авангарде. Несмотря на немецкое происхождение Карла Лагерфельда и бесспорное господство спортивных брендов Adidas и Puma, эта страна немногое может противопоставить модному влиянию Англии, Франции и Италии. Hugo Boss всегда стремился изменить эту ситуацию. История бренда началась в 1924 году с небольшого ателье. Перед основателем компании то и дело возникали самые разные препятствия. В его истории было даже банкротство, после которого все, что у него оставалось, – всего лишь шесть швейных машин. Но предприниматель был предан своему делу и, преодолевая сложности,
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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упорно продолжал развивать бизнес. Спустя 90 лет со дня основания Hugo Boss стал одним из самых значительных и успешных модных брендов в мире. Под лейблами Hugo и Boss выпускаются многочисленные серии, возможности варьируются от сшитых на заказ костюмов до парфюмов, и в разных странах работает более 1000 магазинов. С годами фасоны поменялись, и знаменитый немецкий прагматизм помогает модному дому адаптироваться к переменам. Модную идентичность Hugo Boss определил деловой гардероб. В 1950-е компания начала выпускать мужские костюмы и прорабатывать технологичные подходы к производству готовой одежды. Это стало важным преимуществом в эпоху, когда работа над качественным костюмом была длительной и кропотливой.
Способность угадывать потребности бизнесменов (а позднее и женщинпредпринимателей) стала лейтмотивом всего, что создает Hugo Boss на протяжении многих лет, включая высокую моду. Истоки всеобщего внимания к бренду можно усмотреть в умении применять особый стиль Boss к разнообразным условиям на рынке. Коллекции всегда выглядят актуальными благодаря детально проработанным костюмам, удачным фасонам, точному крою и однобортными силуэтам. Основав диффузную линию Boss в 1970 году, компания расширила свое присутствие: эта одежда стала более доступной для тех, кто раньше не мог ее себе позволить. В 1998 состоялся дебют женской коллекции, в которой прослеживался
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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ориентир на энергичный стиль – тренд нового времени: лаконичные свободные платья и элегантные, женственные костюмы были адресованы аудитории нового типа. В наши дни Hugo Boss стремится к трендовому и динамичному образу более, чем когда-либо раньше. Это происходит с легкой руки нью-йоркского дизайнера Джейсона Ву, который соединил фирменную вневременную изысканность Hugo Boss с современностью. Джейсон Ву возглавляет женское направление с 2013 года. Молодой дизайнер, сторонник актуальной сдержанности, – подобный выбор может показаться неочевидным для немецкого бренда с большой традицией. Но именно он сумел заострить женскую коллекцию и органично вписаться в жизнь модного дома. В 2009 году первая леди США Мишель Обама выбрала творение Джейсона Ву для инаугурационного бала своего мужа. Тем самым, она подтвердила репутацию Ву как мастера сдержанной элегантности. На протяжении девяти десятилетий Hugo Boss совершенствовался в этой эстетике, и globalblue.com
фигура Ву не могла остаться незамеченной. Когда директор по брендам Hugo Boss Кристоф Аухаген обратился к нему с предложением занять пост в компании, первой мыслью Ву стал вопрос «почему я?»: «Выбор показался мне очень странным, – поделился он. – Я считал Boss брендом мужской одежды и не был осведомлен о женской линии, которой всего 15 лет». Дизайнера впечатлил современный дух штаб-квартиры Boss в Метцингене, которую он назвал «похожей на декорации к фильму «Гаттака». И сделка состоялась. С момента присоединения к команде Ву уже успел заострить стиль и сделать его более точным. В его новую коллекцию вошли белоснежные блузы, платья приглушенного серого и голубого оттенков, черные минималистские комплекты и мягкие желтые топы и платья с открытыми лопатками. Осенью 2015 года Hugo Boss спонсировал фирменную гоночную яхту. Ее оформлением занимался уважаемый промышленный дизайнер Константин Грчич. В 2016 году эта лодка под управлением рекордсмена Алекса
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Томсона будет участвовать в парусной гонке Vendée Globe. Постоянно растущий ассортимент и сеть бутиков, Ву на посту креативного директора, а теперь еще и морская навигация – очень соблазнительно назвать Hugo Boss большим кораблем с большим плаванием впереди. Пусть это звучит неоригинально, но так и есть: перед этим модным домом открыты все горизонты.
美文翻译
53: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.
26: The Nature Of Fashion 时尚与大自然 从大胆的动物图腾到以创新手法演绎的经典纹样， 本季设计师们纷纷向自然界寻求灵感，对愈加温暖 的气候而言，这一趋势堪称完美。Stephen Doig 报 道 从汉诺威举世闻名的海恩豪森王家花园中的青翠枝 叶，到柏林绵延的蒂尔加滕公园与慕尼黑占地900 英亩的英国花园，德国的城市在春日迸发出生机勃 勃的绿意。德国的公园是城市丰富景观的重要组成 部分，错落于各种摩天大楼与建筑架构之间更显夺 目。春天的到来不仅为我们的衣橱带来变化，设计师
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们也将户外的春光引入室内，为时尚系列带来颂扬 植物与生命盛放的单品，令人心生暖意。 诚然，在春夏季节设计师们时常会从自然界汲 取美学灵感。然而在今年春天尤其值得一提的，是从 男装、女装到配饰全线，都可见到这种令人兴奋、富 含活力、充满新意的对自然界的诠释。 “这是文化之间的冲突，”Kim Jones在为路易威 登带来的2016春夏男装发布会后台表示。这个系列 将东西方美学嫁接。“这是复古美国风与亚洲美学影 响的融合，”Jones解释道。两者的结合，通过从遥远 东方异国情调中提取解构出热带自然元素来呈 现。Jones是一名公认的勇敢旅行家，他的设计中包 括印有鹳鸟的丝质夹克与衬衣，烂漫盛开的樱花图 案，还有从竹林中好奇地探出脑袋的卷尾猴；一切 都洋溢着欢乐。Jones持续不断地寻找新手法为自己 的男装系列注入生命力与色彩，而这个领域传统上 来说，通常追求的是安全与标准，而非大胆与印花。 “我认为有一股潮流的力量，推动我们的着装向 充满活力的、鲜活的印花，与更具冒险精神的设计发 展，”英国版GQ杂志副主编Bill Prince表示。“植物 印花与图案之流毫无疑问与这股潮流相契合。”既然 Kim Jones无可挑剔的男装带给你冒险的乐趣，谁 还需要去丛林探险？ 在Gucci，Alessandro Michele仍致力于以自 己流线型、女性化的设计改革男装设计的图景，并利 用自然的力量加以诠释。刺绣花朵环绕于西服之上， 领口周围的花边上缝有花环，毛衣上点缀着飞舞的 蝴蝶，彩虹般的花柄、根茎、花瓣与花蕊印花绽放于 西装上。在Marc Jacobs同样如此，花朵与些许豹纹 印花装点着丝绸睡衣与衬衫。 德国的设计师们也不甘示弱；他们中的大多数 都加入了赞颂野生美好事物的行列。Hugo Boss在 女装系列中重新演绎了花朵印花，使用柔和的鸽子 色与板岩色调，与柔和的糖果色或大胆的抽象印花 形成令人耳目一新的对比效果。德国经典品牌 Aigner，花朵以提花工艺手法呈现，赋予其三维立 体感。创意总监Christian Beck大胆创新，从海底生 物中获得灵感，在花边中织入海星、螃蟹、章鱼、海 藻和贝壳等图案。在 Jil Sander，男装衬衣与短裤被 装饰以微型花朵，对这个以极简美学著称的品牌而 言，可谓是相当罕见的繁复奢华。 如今我们的衣橱变得越发有技术含量，不仅体 现于面料，也同样体现于构造、设计与印花中。这一 从纷繁复杂的事物与以城市中心，向户外、大自然以 及与动物相处的转变，透露着我们想在细微之处与 那部分渐行渐远的世界相连接的渴望。无论出于什 么原因，这些以自然为灵感的印花和图案赋予最标 准化的单品智慧与趣味——还有比探出脑袋张望的 卷尾猴更能引人一笑的吗？请尽情拥抱本季野趣的 呼唤。你的衣柜亦会对你感激不尽。 globalblue.com
32: In Focus: Hugo Boss 聚焦：Hugo Boss
这个尊贵的德国品牌，以制造西服享誉全球，在传承 光辉历史的同时——仍将视野牢牢聚焦于未 来，Charlie Neidpath报道
Hugo Boss的总部位于麦琴根，这座夺人眼球的建 筑是品牌精神的体现。其设计理念是装在巧克力盒 里浓缩的典型德国小镇，有着半木结构外墙和中世 纪尖顶，品牌的神经中枢则位于以严格标准修剪的 花园内，是一栋以反光玻璃和钢结构打造的建筑： 一座以鲜明现代性对抗传统的堡垒。这句描述同样 适用于Hugo Boss品牌本身，因其以新鲜、摩登的设 计，在一片历史上从未处于时尚前沿的市场上打开 局面而闻名。即便卡尔·拉格菲尔德来自德国，领先 运动服装品牌如阿迪达斯和彪马源于德国，德国在 时尚产业完全不能与英国、法国和意大利匹敌。 Hugo Boss一直试图改变这种状况。品牌于 1924年成立时只是一间小服装公司；其同名创始人 面临重重障碍，包括经历了一场名下只留下六台缝 纫机的破产。这位决心如铁的商人克服万难，稳步扎 实地建立自己的品牌。今日，在成立仅仅90年 后，Hugo Boss已发展为全球规模最大、最成功的 时尚品牌之一，在Hugo与Boss品牌旗下，拥有数条 产品系列，经营范围从定制西服到香氛无所不包，并 在世界各地拥有超过1000家门店网络。 虽然在过去的岁月中风格已有所改变，品牌也 适应了德国特色的实用主义，职场衣橱的美誉最终 成就了Hugo Boss的时尚身份。在1950年，品牌开 始推出男装西服，并开发出可大批量生产成衣的创 新工艺——在那个制作优质西服需要痛苦漫长过程 的年代，堪称极具影响力的技术。 品牌拥有取悦男性商务人士的天分——而后， 就是女性商务人士——这对于Hugo Boss多年来的 设计有着根深蒂固的潜在影响，包括其高级时装线， 品牌的普遍吸引力从其以Boss招牌款式迎合不同市 场的能力中可见一斑。品牌的走秀系列洋溢着摩登 的调子，包括时髦的西服、无可匹敌的剪裁、窄身廓 形与单排扣款式。当Boss副线系列在1970年推出 时，品牌继续扩大其覆盖面，让那些之前被奢侈品高 昂售价挡在门外的顾客也成为受众。1998年，品牌 的女装系列首次亮相，大胆直击气场着装的新趋 势：通勤连衣裙与优雅、时尚、女性化的西服套装， 响应这批新受众的需求。 如今，品牌相较以往更为入时与动感。这在很大 程度上归功于纽约设计师吴季刚（ Jason Wu），他 以当代手法完整诠释了Hugo Boss品牌的精致细 腻。吴季刚自2013年起担任女装创意总监起，将这 条产品线带往清晰明确的时髦新方向。一位以低调
奢华设计著称的、年轻现代的设计师，对这个91岁 的德国传统品牌而言或许有些奇怪，但他早已成为 家喻户晓的名字。2009年，当美国第一夫人米歇 尔·奥巴马选择穿着吴季刚的设计参加丈夫的就职 舞会，她再次巩固了吴季刚作为低调优雅大师的美 誉，使其成为这个以九十年时间塑造相近美学理念 之品牌的完美舵手。 当被Hugo Boss的首席品牌官Christoph Auhagen接洽并邀请其担任该职位时，吴季刚的第 一个念头是“为什么是我？”。“这看似是最怪异的组 合，”他说。“我一直以为Boss只是一个男装品牌，对 于只有15年历史的女装系列并不熟悉。” 吴季刚被打 动的部分原因是Boss麦琴根总部令人动容的摩登建 筑，他将其描述为“《千钧一发》电影场景”—— 于是 他与品牌达成了共识。自加入品牌旗下，吴季刚为其
PHOTO: BOSS
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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增添了几分犀利与酷感。他带来的最新系列，包括冰 白色层叠褶皱与衬衣、暗灰色与鸽子色连衣裙、时 髦黑色极简礼服与柔软的黄色工字背上衣与连衣 裙。 还有更多证据能展现Hugo Boss的宏图未来。 在2015年秋天品牌冠名赞助了一艘竞赛帆船。这艘 船上的图案，由备受尊崇的工业设计大师 Konstantin Grcic设计，将会参加2016年的 Vendée Globe帆船赛，由屡破纪录的水手Alex Thomson驾驶。在吴季刚担任创意总监后，Hugo Boss的产品系列与门店数量都不断扩张，如今加上 对航海事业的新热情，Hugo Boss就如同扬帆远航 的旗舰。虽然听上去有些陈词滥调，但依然千真万 确——这是一间将目光牢牢聚焦于远方地平线的公 司。
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PHOTO: MARK LLOYD/LLOYD IMAGES/AT RACING ALEX THOMPSON BOAT
When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free :53
عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضريبة Tax Freeلتدّخر المال لدى تس ّوقك في أكثر من 270,000متجر في أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العالم. فل َم ل تنض ّم إلى الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضريبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينما تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب في طريق العودة إلى وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصالتك قبل قبض السترداد من الخاصة بنا. أحد مكاتب السترداد ّ للتّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدنى قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من ثمن
مشترياتك .يشمل مبلغ السترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضريبة على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري .في بعض المطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد ضريبة في حال رغبت بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي.
53: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free 。Shopping）为您节约购物开销 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global Blue)获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻 找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 。(Global Blue Tax Free Form)，并记得保存小票 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 。的退税点领取您的退税款 联系方式：
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25即可节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 。现金退税手续费
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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
PHOTO: BOSS
PHOTO: BOSS
وإبداع علمة Hugo Bossبالحداثة .وبفضل ،Wuوهومدير ابتكار الملبس النسائية منذ سنة ،2013بات هذا الخ ّط باهرا ً ومحدّدا ً للموضة .قد يبدو هذا المصمم الشاب المعاصر المشهور بالناقة البسيطة دخيلً على علمة تجارية ألمانية عريقة انطلقت منذ 91سنة ،لكنه أصبح من أهل الدار .ع ّززت السيدة الميركية الولى Michelle Obamaشهرة Jason Wuكسيّد الناقة البسيطة عندما اختارت ارتداء ثوب من تصميمه خلل حفل تنصيب زوجها سنة ،2009م ّما جعل منه رمزا مثالياً لعلمة تجارية أمضت تسعة عقود تتقن أسلوباً جماليّاً مماثلً. عندما طلب منه المدير التنفيذي Christoph Auhagen أن يتولى هذا المنصب ،أ ّول سؤال جال في خاطر Wuكان“ :ل َم أنا؟ بدا عرضاً غريباً ج ّدا ً إذ تُعرف Bossعلى أنّها علمة تجارية للملبس الرجالية ولست مل ًما جدًا بالقسم النسائي الذي أُ ّسس قبل 15عا ًما ل غير ”.لكن من المور التي دفعت Wuإلى قبول العرض كانت حداثة مقر Bossالبارزة في Metzingen والتي يصفها بـ”موقع تصوير فيلم .”Gattacaمنذ انضمامه إلى العلمة ،تمكّن Wuمن إضافة عنصري الدقّة والتميّز. ض ّمت مجموعته الخيرة طبقات وقمصانٍ باللّلّون البيض الجليدي وفساتين باللّون ال ّرمادي الهادئ والفاتح وأثوابًا سوداء بسيطة وقمصاناً وفساتين مكشوفة الظهر جزئيّاً باللون الصفر الزاهي. وإن كنت تبحث عن المزيد من الدلة لتتأكد من تحقيق Hugo Bossمزيدا ً من النجاحات ،نعلمك أنّها رعت يختاً يحمل إسمها في خريف .2015سيشارك اليخت المزخرف بأعمال المص ّمم الصناعي المرموق Konstantin Grcicفي سباق Vendée Globeلليخوت لعام 2016بقيادة البحار مكسر الرقام القياسية .Alex Thomsonبفضل مدير البتكار ّ Wuوعدد متزايد من المنتجات والمتاجر ،أضف إلى ذلك هذه التجربة البحرية الجديدة ،يمكن القول إ ّن Hugo Bossتبحر الحق يُقال إ ّن هذه الى المام .قد يبدو ذلك تكرارا ً وإسهاباً ،لكن ّ الشركة تضع المستقبل نصب عينيها.
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In Focus: Hugo Boss :32
تحت الجهرHugo Boss :
تتباهى هذه العلمة التجارية اللمانية المرموقة والمعروفة في جميع أنحاء العالم ببدلتها المميزة ،بتراثها العريق واضع ًة نصب عينيها ،تقرير Charlie Neidpath المستقبل َ
كل ما هو غريب ومذهل .أعاد إذ شارك البعض منهم في ترسيخ ّ دار Hugo Bossتخيّل رسوم الزهور في مجموعته للملبس ٍ كنقيض حيوي النسائيّة مستخدماً ألواناً باهتة وداكنة وذلك لللوان الخفيفة المهذّبة أو النقوش التجريديّة البارزة .أ ّما في فتجسدت الورود في قماش جاكار الدار اللماني ّ ،Aigner وظهرت ثلثيّة البعاد .استوحى مدير البتكار Christian فجسد نجمة البحر والسلطعون واللّوامس Beckمن عالم البحار ّ والطحالب والصداف في أقمشة مخ ّرمة .ولدى ،Jil Sander ترقّطت القمصان والشورتات الرجاليّة بأزها ٍر صغيرة في موج ِة ٍ طيش نادرة بالنسبة إلى علمة تجاريّة تُع َرف بأسلوبها البسيط. يدخل عنصر التقنيّة أكثر فأكثر إلى ملبسنا ،ليس من حيث القمشة فحسب ،بل أيضاً على مستوى الهيكل والتصميم والرسوم. كل ما هو معقّد و ُمدُني والتق ّرب من ولربّما كان البتعاد عن ّ المساحات الخارجيّة والطبيعة والحيوانات يعبّر خير تعبير عن رغبتنا بالتواصل بطريق ٍة ما مع ذلك الجزء الخر من العالم. مهما كانت السباب ،تضفي هذه الرموز والرسوم المستوحاة من حساً من الفكاهة والغرابة حتّى إلى أكثر القطع التزاماً الطبيعة ّ بالمعايير؛ فمن بإمكانه رسم ابتسامة أكثر من قر ٍد فر ٍح يسترق لب نداء البريّة هذا الموسم فتُ ِ سد النظر من بين الشجيرات؟ ّ مجموعة ملبسك معروفاً.
يجسد مقر Hugo Bossالمذهل في Metzingenروح ّ العلمة التجارية .في حين يعكس موقعها سحر البلدة اللمانية النموذجية من خلل واجهات خشبيّة جزئيّاً وقبب مسننة من القرون الوسطى ،وقد ات ّخذ مركز العلمة الرئيسي شكل هيكلٍ فولذي مط ّعم بزجاج ل ّماع ،وس َط حدائق مشذبة بدقة صارمة :إنه رمز الحداثة البارزة في وجه التقاليد .ينطبق هذا الوصف على علمة Hugo Bossبنفسها ،حيث أصبحت العلمة التجارية معروفة بالسلوب المعاصر والجديد في سوق لم يكن تاريخيا في صدارة صناعة الزياء .على الرغم من أصول Karl Lagerfeld اللمانية وهيمنة العلمات التجارية الرياضية مثل Adidasو ،Pumaل يمكن للمانيا أن تضاهي المملكة المتحدة وفرنسا وإيطاليا في مجال السلوب الراقي. لطالما سعت Hugo Bossإلى تغيير ذلك .تم إطلق العلمة التجارية كشركة ملبس صغيرة سنة 1924وقد واجه م”سسها الذي يحمل السم نفسه عقبات مختلفة ،بما في ذلك الفلس ،تاركاً لصاحب المشروع ست “لت خياطة ل غير .ورغم كل الصعاب ،واظب رجل العمال الملتزم على بناء العلمة التجارية بثبات .اليوم وبعد أكثر من 90عاماً على تأسيسها ،نمت Hugo Bossلتصبح واحدة من أكبر وأنجح علمات الزياء في العالم ،مع مجموعة تضم العديد من الخطوط تحت تسميات ،Hugo Bossوتتراوح المنتجات بين البدلت المص ّممة بحسب الطلب والعطور ،ضمن شبكة دولية تضم أكثر من ألف متجر. على الرغم من تغيّر الساليب عبر السنين وتأقلم العلمة مع البراغماتيكيّة اللمانيّة المشهورة ،الملبس العمليّة هي التي حدّدت هويّة .Hugo Bossبدأ الدار سنة 1950بتصميم بدلت للرجال وط ّور طرقاً مبتكرة لنتاج قطع جاهزة؛ المر الذي اعتُبر مهارة بارعة في حقبة كانت فيها صناعة البدلت العالية الجودة عمليّة شاقّة. لطالما أث ّرت الحماسة لتقديم الفضل لرجال العمال ،ولحقًا لسيدات العمال ،على كل ما ص ّممه Hugo Bossعلى م ّر السنين ،بما في ذلك مجموعاته الراقية ،وربما تعود شعبيّة العلمة العالمية الى قدرتها على تعديل أسلوب Bossبما يتناسب مع مختلف السواق .تقدم مجموعات عروض الزياء بصمتها المعاصرة من خلل البدلت النيقة والخياطة النظيفة بصف واحد من الزرار .مع والقصات الضيقة والقطع المز ّودة ّ ّ وسعت العلمة تأسيس خط Bossالمخفّض السعار سنة ّ ،1970 انتشارها لتصل إلى أولئك الذين كانوا يجدون الملبس الفاخرة بعيدة المنال .سنة ،1998قدّمت العلمة أ ّول مجموعة ملبس نسائية لها وتميزت بات ّباعها موضة الملبس السلطويّة بجرأة: فساتين فضفاضة وبدلت أنثوية أنيقة وراقية توجهت بوضوح إلى جمهور جديد .اليوم ،أصبحت العلمة التجارية أكثر حداثة وديناميكية من أي وقت مضى .ويعود الفضل الكبير في ذلك الى رقي مهارة المصمم المقيم في نيويورك ،Jason Wuالذي ط ّعم ّ globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية The Nature Of Fashion :26
طبيعة الوضة
من الشكال البارزة المستوحاة من الحيوانات إلى التصاميم المبتكرة المرتكزة على الزهار ،يلجأ المص ّممون هذا الموسم إلى الطبيعة باحثين عن اللهام .إنّها الموضة المثاليّة لمنا ٍخ أكثر دفئاً، على ح ّد تعبير Stephen Doig
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من خُضرة حدائق Herrenhäusenالعالميّة الشهرة في هانوفر إلى حديقة Tiergartenالشاسعة في برلين وحديقة Englischer Gartenعلى امتداد 900هكتار في ميونخ، يكسو الخضرار مدن ألمانيا في الربيع ُمب ِرزا ً حيويّتها .تشكّل منتزهات ألمانيا جزءا ً كبيرا ً من مساحات المدن ويزداد رونقها سحاب شاهقة ل ّماعة وأعمالً هندسيّة مبتكرة. بجوار ناطحات ٍ ونتيجة التغيير الذي يُحدثه الربيع في مجموعات ملبسنا أيضاً، ل يسعنا إل أن نلحظ ما يقوم به المص ّممون من خلل حمل الطبيعة إلى الداخل ،مازجين أسلوبنا بقطعٍ ترتكز على النبات والزهار. غالباً ما يستخرج المص ّممون من الطبيعة عناصر جماليّة لمجموعات الربيع/الصيف .والملفت للنتباه في ملبس الرجال والنساء والكسسوارات في الربيع هو ترجمتها البارزة للعالم الطبيعي .قال Kim Jonesفي كواليس عرض أزياء Louis Vuittonالرجاليّة لربيع/صيف “ :2016تمحورت المجموعة حول صراع الثقافات” .دمجت بين المعايير الجماليّة الشرقيّة والغربيّة .وأضاف“ :تمحورت حول الرث الميركي مع بعض التأثيرات السيويّة ”.وقد ت ّم التعبير عن هذا الدمج من خلل رموز الطبيعة الستوائيّة في أماكن بعيدة فريدة من نوعها .يشتهر Jonesبأسفاره المغامرة وقد تض ّمنت تصاميمه طيورا ً تجتاح ستر ٍ تطل بفضو ٍل من ات حريريّة وقمصاناً وأزهار كر ٍز تتفتّح و ِقردة ّ خلف أوراق الخيزران .ولطالما وجد Jonesطرقاً جديدة ليبعث الحياة واللوان في مجموعاته الرجاليّة ،وهو مجال أزياء يميل بالعادة إلى السلوب المن واللتزام بالمعايير بدلً من اعتماد الجرأة والرسوم. يقول ،Bill Princeنائب مح ّرر “ :British GQأعتقد أنّنا نتّجه إلى طريقة ٍ وحس لبس حيويّة مفعمة بالنقوش ّ المغامرة .ول ّ شك أ ّن النقوش والصور المرتبطة بالنبات تشكّل جزءا ً منها ”.فمن قد يطمح بعد اليوم إلى نزهة في الدغال في بحس المغامرة من خلل ملبس Kim حين يمكنه الشعور ّ Jonesالرجاليّة الرائعة؟ استم ّر Alessandro Micheleلدى Gucciبثورته في مجال الملبس الرجاليّة من خلل تصاميمه النثويّة النسيابيّة ال ُمترجمة عبر ق ّوة الطبيعة .التفّت الباقات بشكلٍ حلزوني على طول البدلت و ُدرِزت الكاليل على القماش المخ ّرم حول الياقات فيما رفرفت الفراشات على القمصان وتزيّنت البدلت ببتلت وجذوع أزهار ناصعة اللوان .لم يكن الوضع مختلفا ً لدى Marc Jacobsالذي أضاف إلى بعض بدلته وقمصانه الحريريّة أزهارا ً وبعض نقوش الفهد. ولم يتف ّوق أحد على المص ّممين اللمان في هذا المجال،
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