SHOP Switzerland AW15

SWITZERLAND | ШВЕЙЦАРИЯ | 瑞士 | ‫سوي سا‬

SWITZERLAND

Page 30 PEAK PERFORMANCE: Switzerland’s writing implements scale the heights

Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16

WELCOMES YOU TO ZURICH & GENEVA AIRPORTS

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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this innovative country. Switzerland has much to ofer, as our guide on page 40 reveals. Readers who appreciate pioneering design will enjoy our feature on writing implements (page 30), and in this issue we also explore some of Switzerland’s most applauded hotel restaurants (page 36).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save money when shopping in Switzerland. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Switzerland. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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Welcome to Switzerland

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GENÈVE | 116 Rue du Rhone | Tel. +41 22 700.99.80 ZURICH | UraniaStrasse 11 | Tel. +41 43 497.21.30 CRANS S/SIERRE | Rue du Prado | Tel. +41 27 481.16.14

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CONTRIBUTORS

ILLUSTRATION: MIKE LEMANSKI

Mike Lemanski Mike Lemanski’s skill at creating striking graphic imagery made him the perfect choice of cover illustrator for this season’s edition of SHOP Switzerland. His design shows a Swiss mountain range created out of pencils and pens, inspired by our feature on Switzerland’s top stationery brands – see page 30. Mike’s other clients include the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Lacoste, Toyota and Condé Nast.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. globalblue.com

Theresa Harold SHOP’s fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold studied creative writing at Bath Spa University. Since then, she has worked in Hong Kong, Macau and London, covering the latest in luxury living.

Kiranjeet Kaur Fashion communication graduate Kiranjeet Kaur moved to London to pursue a career in artworking and design. Kiranjeet loves cooking and is an avid fan of pop culture, hip-hop music and painting.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor/ acting features editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Mike Lemanski Contributors Fiona Keating, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

GLOBA L BLU E SWITZER LAND Managing director Ronald Christen

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou

Marketing coordinator Ralph Wutscher

Marketing manager Michael Mauerhoff

Global Blue, Zürichstrasse 38, CH-8306 Brüttisellen, Switzerland

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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CONTENTS p.30

P ROD U C T S 20 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Switzerland this season 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 24 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Switzerland 26 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E 30 Cover Story: The Write Place Swiss ingenuity and technology is by no means limited to watches and clocks: the country is home to impressive pioneers of pens and writing implements, says Josh Sims

E X PE R I E NCE 36 Table Talk Thanks to their innovative menus and applauded chefs Switzerland’s hotel restaurants are enjoying a surge in popularity, as Theresa Harold fnds out GU I DE 40 Maps and guides to Switzerland’s top shops and destinations ESSENTI A LS 52 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 53 Русский Перевод 55 美文翻译 57 POSTCA R D 58 SHOP writes home about IWC Schafhausen

Above: Prodir’s DS9 leather ball pen is one of Switzerland’s most innovative writing implements

LAPO ELKANN

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BOUTIQUES GENÈVE • PARIS • LONDON • BERLIN • NEW YORK MIAMI • BEVERLY HILLS • LAS VEGAS MOSCOW • DUBAI • TOKYO • HONG KONG SINGAPORE • SAINT-TROPEZ • CANNES COURCHEVEL • GSTAAD • ZERMATT

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WOMEN– MENSWEAR ZÜRICH — BAHNHOFSTR ASSE 12/18 & STORCHENGASSE BASEL — FREIE STR ASSE 74 ST. MORITZ — VIA SERL AS GSTAAD — PAL ACE STR ASSE 1

ALEX ANDER McQUEEN ALTUZ ARR A A ZZEDINE AL AÏA ASHISH BALENCIAGA BAL M AIN BLUEM ARINE BOUCHR A JARR AR CÉLINE DELPOZO DOLCE & GABBANA EACH X OTHER ETRO GARY GR AHA M GIVENCHY JITROIS JONATHAN SAUNDERS L ANVIN LOYD FORD M ARC JACOBS M ARNI PETER PILOT TO PROENZ A SCHOULER PR ABAL GURUNG RODARTE SACAI SAINT L AURENT SIMONE ROCHA STELL A JEAN STELL A McCARTNEY THAKOON THE ROW TOM FORD URBAN ZEN VISVIM CASHMERE THE ELDER STATESM AN LUCIEN PELL AT-FINET JEANS PAIGE R13 T-SHIRT THE WHITE BRIEFS BAGS & ACCESSORIES GIVENCHY M AISON TAKUYA MYRIA M SCHAEFER PROENZ A SCHOULER SAINT L AURENT JEWELLERY HOORSENBUHS KIESELSTEIN-CORD LE GR A MME LYDIA COURTEILLE SHOES AQUA ZZUR A FEIT GIANVITO ROSSI GIVENCHY PROENZ A SCHOULER SAINT L AURENT STALLION BOOTS STUBBS & WOOT TON TABITHA SIMMONS COSMETICS BODY DELI ZELENS

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CHECK OUT

FAMILY HEIRLOOM Jacqueline Hermès was an energetic nineyear-old in 1912 when she was given a gift by her father of an unusual pocket watch that had a leather holder designed to keep it on her wrist. In 2012, 100 years later, the watch was reinvented under the name In the Pocket.

Hermès has now issued a second piece in the series, a rose gold watch with a 50-hour power reserve and an alligator leather exterior. The Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52

rose gold case of the new In the Pocket watch has a silver dial. The handcrafted strap is sewn in the Hermès leather-making studio in Switzerland and is composed of three layers of leather expertly polished with beeswax.

The 178-piece limited-edition creation is also designed to be worn as a stylish pocket watch. fk Hermès In the Pocket watch, €28,700, Hermès, Bahnhofstrasse 28A, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 211 4177, hermes.com * for map go to page 42

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GOT THE BLUES Navy, denim and khaki are the ultimate combination this season

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1. Tod’s loafers, CHF380, Tod’s, 108-110 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 0810, tods.com

3. Piaget watch, CHF29,000, Piaget, 40 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 817 0200, piaget.com

2. Massimo Dutti coat, CHF335, Massimo Dutti, Bahnhofstrasse 53, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 210 1105, massimodutti.com

4. Diesel jeans, CHF199, Diesel, Bahnhofstrasse 84, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)43 497 2280, diesel.com

Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52

5. Santoni bag, CHF3,200, Santoni, Via Nassa 32, 6900 Lugano, +41 (0)91 922 0111, santonishoes.com

PHOTO: (5) ROBERTO MAZZOLA

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QUIET TONES Adopt soft, neutral colours this winter and mix them with a strong, black palette

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1. Escada coat, CHF2,799, Escada, 112 rue du Rh么ne, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 311 0252, escada.com

3. Louis Vuitton bag, CHF3,800, Louis Vuitton, 2 place du Lac, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 311 0232, louisvuitton.com

2. Salvatore Ferragamo watch, CHF1,940, Salvatore Ferragamo, 104 rue du Rh么ne, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 1508, ferragamo.com

4. Clarks shoes, CHF80, Clarks, Werdm眉hleplatz 4, 8001 Z眉rich, +41 (0)44 221 0221, clarks.ch

globalblue.com

5. Marc Cain hat, CHF129, Marc Cain, 7 rue de la Fontaine, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 311 4040, marc-cain.com

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SHOP WINDOW

TERRIFIC TIFFANY In May 2015 Tifany & Co opened its third boutique in Switzerland. Located on rue du Rhône in Geneva’s premier shopping district, the store showcases the brand’s latest jewellery and watch collections and extends across 5,900 square feet. Geneva played a major role in Tifany’s watchmaking history: in 1868, the company opened a branch in the city and later established a watch factory here. Fittingly, Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52

the inauguration of the new store coincided with the launch of a new watch collection for the legendary house. Visitors to the elegant new shop will be able to explore the Tifany treasures in a sophisticated and spacious environment that refects the brand’s values as a purveyor of luxury goods. th Tifany & Co, 21 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 761 5550, tifany.com * for map go to page 46

TOMMY HILFIGER STORES STÜCKI SHOPPING, BASEL WESTSIDE, BERN VIA MAISTRA 2, ST. MORITZ BAHNHOFSTRASSE 24, ZÜRICH

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ECLECTIC CHIC If there’s one certainty with Miuccia Prada, it is that there are no certainties. Her autumn/ winter 2015/16 collection for Miu Miu is a glorious mishmash of colours, patterns, and even eras. Outfts are an exercise in contrasts, with thick houndstooth coats teamed with patent crocodile leather miniskirts. The efect is a joyous assault on the senses. Oversized buttons are a key motif that unites sometimes disparate looks. This oversized theme was also apparent in the costume jewellery worn by the models who showed the collection. The only area where Prada doesn’t play with proportions is accessories; bags and shoes have a distinctly 1950s feel, albeit with a cartoon-like Miu Miu makeover. th Miu Miu, Storchengasse 16, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 212 8318, miumiu.com * for map go to page 42

This season’s Ermenegildo Zegna menswear collection is a masterclass in luxury fabrics.

The Italian fashion house, founded over a century ago as a luxury wool mill that produced some of the highest-quality textiles in the world, has gone back to its roots with pieces crafted from the fnest wools and cashmeres.

A palette of dusky pastels, earthy khaki greens and rusty browns dominates an otherwise monochrome collection. Highlights include cashmere polo-neck sweaters matched with exquisitely tailored velvet sports coats, while an impressive array of tweed caps is echoed in a tweed printed raincoat. This collection, which matches luxury fabrics with practical necessity, makes it easy to see why Ermenegildo Zegna is a go-to label for luxury modern menswear. rp Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Serlas 30, 7500 St Moritz, +41 (0)81 833 5146, zegna.com * for map go to page 50 Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

MODERN LUXE

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WRAP UP WARM For luxurious outerwear with a fashion edge, look no further than Moncler’s latest womenswear collection. From cocoon coats to capes to bomber jackets, Moncler ofers a shape to suit every taste and fgure, but it is the textures and detailing that take centre stage here. A subtle colour palette highlights the softness of fne wool or the volume of jacquard on otherwise classic coats. Deep black is chosen as the base for bold winter forals on sporty bomber jackets. Structured shapes exaggerate the contrasts of luxurious fabrics, with jacquard pieces edged in fur proving a real highlight. For evening, look out for the soft wool cape with foral beading: the perfect piece to wear over a cocktail dress. hl Moncler, 57 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 6933, moncler.com * for map go to page 46

TIMELESS TAILORING With its Tailored collection, American lifestyle label Tommy Hilfger has cornered the market for high-quality, fuss-free and timeless tailoring. Using excellent fabrics and precise cuts, the collection is beautifully made and designed with fashion in mind, ofering a range of classic pieces from sharp blazers to suit trousers. The Tailored collection is sure to please any gentleman who likes to look sharp.

This season, look out for a range of subtle checks and tartans which will give your formal wardrobe a lift. Two- and three-piece suits are among the collection’s highlights and the range as a whole is designed to be harmonious, making it easy to stay on-trend by mixing and matching pieces in similar shades. mkh Tommy Hilfger, Sihlcity, Kalanderplatz 1, 8045 Zürich, +41 (0)44 403 3700, tommy.com globalblue.com

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SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle.

The art deco-infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. This ring’s distinctively solid look is based around a stylised fgure of eight, which evokes ideas of infnity as well as referencing 1888, the year Bucherer was founded. While the ring is almost masculine in its design, delicate rows of diamonds add a feminine fnishing touch. hl Bucherer, Schwanenplatz 5, 6002 Lucerne, +41 (0)41 369 7700, bucherer.com

SPECIAL EFFECTS The latest womenswear collection from Swiss brand Bally is bold and colourful and takes inspiration from the flms of director Wes Anderson as well as the style of the 1960s.

Anderson is known for his idiosyncratic aesthetic and his largerthan-life characters, and the collection is a nod to his unique leading ladies. The pieces have a carefully considered design yet are made to be worn with nonchalance. Contrasting colours and textures abound on A-line silhouettes, bringing retro references bang up to date. Combined with Bally’s classic accessories, including the timeless Corner bag, this is one of the strongest collections of the season. hl Bally, 47 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 2287, bally.com * for map go to page 46

Save money by shopping tax free, see page 52

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PHOTO: MICHAEL EGLOFF

PERFECT PENMANSHIP

HIP TO BE SQUARE Concept brand 290 Square Meters has opened a new store in Zürich, building on the success of its boutiques in Amsterdam and Istanbul. Called 90 Square Meters because it covers that amount of space, the Zürich store has the same style and attitude as the other branches, with the same core motto, ‘make the best use of the space available’. This it certainly does, presenting quality, well-crafted products in a unique environment. The store is beautifully designed and has a chic, industrial look which cleverly gives it a greater sense of size. Its careful selection of premium brands includes Levi’s, Converse and Crafted. fm 90 Square Meters, Badenerstrasse 175, 8003 Zürich, +41 (0)44 548 0633, 290sqm.com globalblue.com

The launch of the Montblanc M pen, designed

by Marc Newson, ushers in a new era of design excellence for the maison. This is the Montblanc’s frst ever design partnership and Newson’s trademark style, inspired by organic forms, has translated beautifully into this magnifcent writing instrument. As ever, functionality is at the heart of the product. This has been creatively expressed in the use of a magnet to close the cap and an additional snap mechanism to hold it in place.

The platinum-plated clip is mounted invisibly into the cap so it does not disrupt the fuidity of the overall design.

Newson has stayed true to the Montblanc aesthetic with his choice of the company’s black ‘precious resin’ as the main body material. th Montblanc, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 211 4810, montblanc.com * for map go to page 42

THE WRITE PLACE Swiss ingenuity and technology is by no means limited to watches and clocks: the country is home to impressive pioneers of pens and writing implements, says Josh Sims

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witzerland is an understated innovator in the world of pens. Many people may regard Germany as creating some of the world’s best writing instruments; after all, the country is home to the likes of Pelikan, Montblanc, Faber Castell and Bossert & Erhard. But over its southern border is a very diferent kind of pen industry focused on a diferent kind of writing instrument. There, to employ national stereotype, German engineering comes up against Swiss design, and there lesser-known makers such as Wagner produce writing goods that are both more accessibly priced and less traditional.

Take the manufacturer Prodir. The company gently mocks its own Swissness: a recent Prodir blog notes that as well as being the birthplace of Le Corbusier, the nation is home to the Alpine horn, nude hiking, a variety of wrestling known as Schwingen and 700,000 cows. Yet the blog also states that Prodir’s mission is the provision of ‘good design, good and replaceable reflls and a good price’, and that the company follows a design principle of less-is-more and a motto of ‘reduce to the max’.

All of which is refected in Prodir’s new DS9 pen. This comes with a mix of surface detailing (a matt or frosted casing with a polished or transparent clip and push button), a variety of unusual colours (cement grey, denim blue and sunset orange among them) and, importantly, Prodir’s foating ball nib system.

Impressively, the pen embodies subtle changes in shape, with its rounded tip evolving gradually into the oval shape of the push button. Prodir’s designers have thought carefully about the detailing, and the brand’s website notes that ‘the intentionally classic design is slightly ironically broken up by the asymmetrical connection between clip and cap’. Who knew a pen could be ironic? The important point, however, is that it’s a lot of pen for not a lot of money. This is Swiss democratic design at its best.

What could be more elegant and simple than the pencil?

Anyone harbouring notions that, in the touchscreen age, such a humble product has had its day should think again 57

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Previous page: the Prodir DS9 leather pen

PHOTO: (LEFT) CHRISTIAN CHAIZE

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN CHAIZE

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Christoph Schnug, designer for Prodir, explains that it’s all about ‘surprising compositions that remain recognisable. A disruptive element is often a detail that makes a design efective. It’s a feature that attracts the eye momentarily.’ He adds that when someone picks up the pen, ‘I hope that he or she thinks “I know this from somewhere. I have seen this before, haven’t I?” If this is the case, the product has a soul. Beautiful things don’t cry out for attention.’

Indeed what could be more elegant and simple than the pencil? If there are notions that, in the touchscreen age, such a humble product has had its day, think again. According to Carole Hubscher, managing director of the 100-year-old family business Caran d’Ache, sales of pencils, both coloured and plain, are on the up. The company creates all of its Above (clockwise from botom lef): Caran d’Ache managing director Carole Hubscher; Wagner Swiss Jewel aromatherapy pens; Caran d’Ache Goliath cartridge and two of the brand’s Swiss Wood pencils; the Prodir DS9 pen in concrete; a Caran d’Ache crafsman at work

PHOTO: BENOIT LINERO

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Above: Caran d’Ache uses specialist processes to create its writing materials

PHOTO: BENOIT LINERO

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Caran d’Ache has a worldwide reputation for applying Swiss precision to the making of the pencil – its products were favoured by Picasso and Miró products at a single site, just outside Geneva, and it makes pens to rival those of Prodir: its Goliath cartridge, for example, has 8km of writing capacity. Yet Caran d’Ache also has a worldwide reputation for turning that Swiss precision to the making of the pencil, the most basic of writing tools. Perhaps this is why artists such as Picasso and Miró favoured these products.

‘There’s still a big place for the pencil,’ says Hubscher. ‘With a pencil you’re creating by hand, facilitating that direct link between brain and paper, and I think there’s something very special in that. Besides, tablets and smart phones are relatively new; pencils have been a wellestablished technology for a long, long time.’

It’s a technology that requires specialist materials: Californian cedarwood, for example, which not only sharpens without splintering but smells good, too. Caran d’Ache has also played with the idea of aromas through the

introduction of a pencil made of dark Swiss wood that has a distinctive, smoky smell.

Its specialist processes, such as the formula of the waxy oil in which the clay and pigment core of a pencil is soaked in order to allow it to actually mark paper, are industrial secrets.

‘Every child knows what a good pencil is. You get to feel it. It’s the kind of thing you often learn through bad experience,’ says Hubscher.

‘In many ways making pencils is like cooking: you can’t make good food with mediocre ingredients.’ The oil formula in the brand’s pencil making, she continues ‘is a know-how that has developed over decades ‒ what goes into it, how long each type of lead should be in it, how often the oil needs changing. As with many understated Swiss products, it’s the result of the kind of knowledge and attention that comes through making things for a long time.’ wagnerswitzerland.com, prodir.com, carandache.com

Above (from top): Caran d’Ache pencils; the brand’s limited-edition Oberalp pen

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TABLE TALK Hotel restaurants in Switzerland are enjoying a great surge in popularity thanks to their innovative menus and much applauded chefs, as Theresa Harold discovers

There was a time when the prospect of eating in a hotel restaurant conjured images of uninspired salads and overpriced steaks.

With a few notable exceptions, they were places where seasoned travellers opted to dine out of necessity rather than choice. But in recent years, there has been a quiet revolution in the hospitality industry. Switzerland is a prime example of this new development, with hotels waking up to the creative and exciting opportunities they have in their own kitchens and dining rooms. Talented chefs are taking the lead, experimenting with fusion cuisine and reinventing classic dishes for contemporary tastes. So, whether you’re in Zßrich, Geneva or St Moritz, check out these in-house dining options for an experience that’s sure to be remembered long after you check out. globalblue.com

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PA R K H U U S

Parkhuus restaurant at Park Hyatt Z端rich ofers a fnedining experience that befts its exclusive location in the city centre. Ofering Swiss regional cuisine alongside international dishes, the menu is based on fresh, seasonal ingredients, with many of the products purchased at the local market.

Also worthy of note is the impressive wine list, which features more than 600 wines and champagnes.

Parkhuus Restaurant, Beethovenstrasse 21, 8002 Z端rich, +41 (0)43 883 1075, parkhuus-restaurant.ch

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PHOTO: MERLIN PHOTOGRAPHY LTD.

PAV I L L O N

At Pavillon, the restaurant at Baur au Lac hotel in Zürich, head chef Laurent Eperon serves creative dishes with an aesthetic fair that delights diners. Fusing contemporary methods with traditional ingredients and favours, Pavillon presents fne dining at its most innovative, and in recognition of this it has been awarded a Michelin star.

Pavillon, Talstrasse 1, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 220 5022, aupavillon.ch

Acclaimed French chef Michel Roth presides over Hotel President Wilson’s elegant Bayview restaurant. The Michelin-starred chef brings his signature classic yet contemporary style of cuisine to Geneva, serving seasonal food alongside traditional dishes that are transformed by his skilled touch and surprising twists. The chef explains that he likes diners to feel ‘as though they have been invited to dinner at a friend’s house’. His menu, though, is quite beyond such expectations. Starters range from foie gras with fgs to warm blue lobster with young leeks, soya gribiche sauce and claw barbajuans (pastries with spinach, chard and crab claw). Main course options might include succulent beef fllet with chickweed, chard, fondant potatoes and burnt onion cream. The desserts are irresistible; try the millefeuille with chocolate, praline and sea salt caramel sauce.

Bayview, Hotel President Wilson, 47 quai Wilson, 1211 Geneva, +41 (0)22 906 6552, hotelpresidentwilson.com/bayview-restaurant globalblue.com

PHOTO: GRANT SYMON

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PHOTO: GIAN ANDRI GIOVANOLI/KMU FOTOGRAFIE

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THE PIZ Ofering a delicious selection of local dishes and time-honoured classics, the restaurant and pizzeria at Hotel Piz St Moritz is a great option for comfort food. In particular, the signature risotto with creamy beetroot and bufalo mozzarella is a perfect winter warmer. Those

seeking a pizza fx will be spoilt for choice, with more than 35 options on the menu. The cosy dĂŠcor and welcoming atmosphere extend to the Piz bar, where locals and guests can relax after a day on the slopes.

Hotel Piz St Moritz, Via dal Bagn 6, 7500 St Moritz, +41 (0)81 832 1111, piz-stmoritz.ch

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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Switzerland with a look at the city’s best boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/switzerland.

A GLIMPSE OF SWITZERLAND Above: the Jungfrau railway travels up to the Jungfraujoch to give spectacular views of the snow-capped mountains

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42 | G U I D E

Bahnhofstrasse BA

H N H O F B RÜC K E SWAROVSKI ● ● DÜRR BONITA ● THE BODY SHOP ● CLAIRE'S ● YENDI PARIS ● H&M ● MOBILE ZONE ● GOLDHAUS ● ● YVES ROCHER FIELMANN ● ● GÖTTE OPTIK OCHSNER SPORT ● ● SWATCH COOP VITALITY ●

ST

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● ZARA ●●VICTORINOX SANDRO ● LES AMBASSADEURS ● RIETHMÜLLER ● FRANZ CARL WEBER ● STRÄULI SPORT & MODE ● LONGCHAMP ● LACOSTE

SCHWEIZER ● HEIMWERKER

SE

● OCH SPORT LG A S E ● FOTO GANZ ● BATA TT KU ● JOHN R. WULLSCHLEGER ● SWATCH ● BIJOUTERIE URECH

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SELECTED STORES IN JELMOLI:

● DOLMETSCH

ASS

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CENTRAL ● JEWELLERY

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Central

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SELECTED STORES IN THE QUARTER:

NÜ

● BUCHERER ● FALKE OMEGA ● ● CASHMERE HOUSE ● MADAME ZÜRICH ● EYE’S ART ● FURLA Cantineta Antinori ● MEISTER UHREN ● PKZ ● BOVET ● STEIFF ● MAX & MOI ● TEUSCHER ● FIDELIO ● BURBERRY CARTIER ● ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● BRUNOS ● HUBLOT ● NAVYBOOT ● TROIS POMMES HUGO BOSS ● ● KOCHOPTIK ● CHOPARD CHANEL ● ● FERRAGAMO VAN LAACK ● ● TOGAL TROIS POMMES ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● ● PIAGET ● JIL SANDER ● GÜBELIN BIJOUTERIE MEISTER ● ● MIU MIU ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI BREGUET ● ● MAGGS BRIONI ● BEYER ● ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE VESTIBULE ● PATEK PHILIPPE ● BOGNER ● MONCLER PAUL & SHARK ● SPORT ● TROIS POMMES ● ● LA PERLA TA ● TOD'S ● HEINICKE UHREN P.29 MONTBLANC ● ● TOM FORD LS ● LOUIS VUITTON ● MUSIK HUG BOTTEGA VENETA ● TR ● MCM ● ERNST LOOSLI ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● AS ● LEDER LOCHER Zeughauskeller BA BULGARI ● SE ● GRIEDER ● BOGNER ST ARMANI ● EI ● MEISTER UHREN ● HERMÈS P.20 PL AT ● TÜRLER ● LAS PERLITAS ● MORESCHI Z Parade● BLANCPAIN Platz ● GUCCI E ● GASSMANN SS ● LORO PIANA SPRÜNGLI ● GA HACKETT ● ● JIMMY CHOO EN R ● TOMMY HILFIGER BÄ OSSWALD ● ● GROSS COUTERE ● BALLY ROLEX ● SC

HE

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LE

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WYSSBROD ● SALIS & VERTES ● AIRBIJOUX ● A.C. BANG ●

FF

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KOCHOPTIK ●

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HI

SE

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SC

TR AS

CHRISTIAN DIOR ●

ATQ U A I

HOFS

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BAHN

EIC

EG

CL

BL

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Pavillon

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

020.0113002

The leading department store of Switzerland

44 | G U I D E

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Place de Longemalle page

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Global Blue Refund Point

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

Bar

Train Station

Tourist Information

S H O P | 45

OUTLET AUBONNE Located just 15 minutes from Lausanne and 30 minutes from Geneva, Outlet Aubonne is the largest shopping centre of its kind in French-speaking western Switzerland.

Renovated in 2013, the outlet now has more than 50 boutiques, covering everything from sportswear to jewellery. From Nike to Guess and The Kooples, national and international brands are stocked at reduced prices, making the centre a perfect destination for a day out.

Outlet Aubonne, 14 pré Neuf, 1170 Aubonne, +41 (0)58 853 8600,

outlet-aubonne.ch

Rue du Mont-Blanc

● BUCHERER SWATCH ● HORLOGERIE BIJOUTERIE O.ZBINDEN ● R ● HAROLD W. MARIONNAUD ● U E ROBERT RASCHLE ● D U ESPACE TEMPS ● M O ORANGE ● N T

IV AR

ER

ON -B

IS ÇO

AN

● LE MOUTONS A 5 PATTES

FR E

ER RI

E

SE

AU

RU

US

DU

RO

CE

E

ND

RU

TABAC RHEIN ●

LA MAISON DE ● L'HORLOGERIE

N DI E LE AR RI EL E N E IS ION SS E M I T LY ES CH AD ● U GU LA TR BER ● ES

QU

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RU

OR Manor

RI

I-L

AM

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MADISON STORE ●

COUTELLERIE DU JET D'EAU ● PASTORE-NICOLET SA ●

EC

RU

DRAKE STORE (WOMEN) ●

PHARMACIA PLAZA ● KRESS OPTIC ●

BIJOUTERIE KUNZ ●

Q UA I T U R R

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PILI CARRERA ●

-B

HORLOGERIE CADHOR ● L A CHRIST ● N C CHA NTE P O U LE T THE GIFTBOX ● LA MOUTON A 5 PATTES ●

NA VIN

RUE DE

DRAKE STORE (MEN) ●

● MONTRES SA

CHRONOMETRIE KUNZ ●

● BIJOUTERIE B & B

Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues ● BENOIT DE GORSKI

AI D

E T TINI

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Hotel

46 | G U I D E

Rue du Marché

Rue du Rhône IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN ● P.58 AESCHBACH ●

PHARMACIA POPULARIE PHOTO HALL MARIONNAUD KOOKAÏ

RU E DU M A RCH É

● H&M

RHÔNE

Place de la Fusterie

● CLARENCE CHRONOMETRIE SA

HUGO BOSS ● PROMOD ● NAVYBOOT ●

R- M

A ÎT

SE

LORO PIANA ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● BENOÎT DE GORSKI ●

● ZENITH WATCHES ● HERMÈS

R U E D ' I TA L I E

VERSACE ● FRED ● BIJOUX BURMA ● GUCCI ●

RR- M U EA D Î TER LEAS S TO E

● PATEK PHILIPPE ● CHANEL ● BUCHERER

Place du Port

● MONTBLANC ● CÉLINE ● BALLY P.28 ● PRADA

● MARCONI

U R- M A Î T R E S S E VILEBREQUIN ● DRAKE STORE ●

R U E D ' I TA L I E

MARINA RINALDI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● LA PERLA ● HOGAN ● KAREN TOD'S ● ● MILLEN AUBADE ● MAX MARA ● ESCADA ● VERMOREL FOURRURES ●

RU E DU R HÔNE

● ICE WATCH ● VERO MODA ● MARIONNAUD ● KOOKAÏ

RU E DU R HÔNE

GGG GILLES ●

CO U R S D E R I V E

DEVERNOIS ● BERDOZ OPTIC ● FNAC ●

● VISILAB ● YVES ROCHER

RES

R. ROBERT-CÉARD

● CARTIER ● SERGIO ROSSI

RUE DU RHÔNE

OU

● CHEMISERIE CENTRALE

OU

CO U R S D E R I V E

AT

HISTOIRE ● DE PLAIRE ● FUST ● SWISSCOM

● LOUIS VUITTON

GÜBELIN ● CHRISTIAN DIOR ● FENDI ● LES AMBASSADEURS ●

Place de Longemalle

Place du Port

P.24

● JAHAN BIJOUTERIE ● ADLER ● CHOPARD ● DE GRISOGONO ● GRAFF ● CHATILA ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● OMEGA

JAEGER LE COULTRE ● ZARA ●

RUE DE RIVE

EL

● DIESEL

● ROGER VIVIER ● TIFFANY & CO

BREGUET ● PIAGET ● LEONARD ● HARRY WINSTON ●

● CYRILLUS

RUE DU RHÔNE

ED

● BATA ● ESPRIT

Place de Longemalle

RUE DE RIVE

RU

R. ROBERT-CÉARD

● ACUITIS

FRANZ CARL WEBER ● DAVIDOFF ● L’OCCITANE ● APPLE ●

● LONGCHAMP

RUE DU RHÔNE

R U E D E L A C R O I X- D ' O R

BLUE LEMON ● LACOSTE ●

Globus

● MICHAEL KORS ● MOLARD SOUVENIRS ● TALLY WEIJL ● DOUGLAS ● FIELMANN ● ZARA HOME

TOURBILLON ● BLANCPAIN ●

Place du Molard

● OCHSNER SPORT

Place du Molard

INTERDISCOUNT ● C&A ●

● BERSHKA

BULGARI ●

Place de la Fusterie

● ARMENIO ARMANI ● OFFICINE PANARAI

RUE DU RHÔNE

Bongén ie

BCBGMAXAZRIA ● SWATCH ● H&M ●

● SWAROVSKI

R U E D E L A C R O I X- D ' O R

P.48

RU E DU M A RCH É

MARIONNAUD ●

COOP CITY ● JIMMY CHOO ●

RHÔNE

● BIJOUTERIE BADER ● COOP CITY ● PKZ MEN

RU E DU

VICTORINOX ● BENETTON ●

RU E D E L A CO N F É D É R AT I O N

TENTATION BIJOUX ● SAN MARINA ● VISILAB OPTICIENS ● CHOPARD ● CONFÉDÉRATION CENTRE ●

● ● ● ●

RU E DU

RU E D E L A CO N FÉ D É R ATI O N

● GODIVA CHOCOLATIER CHEMISERIE CENTRAL ●

● HYSEK ● APOSTROPHE ● BOUCHERON ● L. RAPHAËL CHRISTIAN ● LOUBOUTIN

● VHERNIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● MONCLER P.27 LE MOUTONS ● A 5 PATTES ● CHURCH'S ● URBAN SIGNATURE ● SHOW OFF

BOGGI ● DIVINO AMORE ● LA COUPOLE ●

● HÄSTENS ● TOUZEAU

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Featured In This Issue

48 | G U I D E

Rue Robert Céard

R. ROBERT-CÉARD

BONGÉNIE GRIEDER

● HUBLOT ● DIOR JOALLERIE DANIEL ● BENJAMIN ● DINH VAN ● TAG HEUER

● ZILLI CASHMERE ● & CASHMERE ● CABASSO

RUE DU RHÔNE

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●

EMPORIO ARMANI ●

R U E D E L A C R O I X- D ' O R

BURBERRY ● MILANO OUTLET ●

Place du Molard

Place du Port

Place de Longemalle

Place de Longemalle

BUCHERER ●

YVES DELORME ●

RUE DU RHÔNE

BENOIT DE GORSKI ● JOHN LOBB ● ISKENDER ● ALAIN AFFLELOU ●

ACUITUS ●

Place du Port

Place de Longemalle

● MONTBLANC ● CÉLINE

RUE DU RHÔNE

TROU UERD -M E LA AÎ TTR OEUSR S-EM A Î TRES

● VERSACE ● DE BETHUNE ● VACHERON CONSTANTIN ● HERVE LEGER

● ZWILLING ● J.A. HENCKELS

RUE DE RIVE

● HISTOIRE DE PLAIRE

LA

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ANNE FONTAINE ● VIA ROMA ●

DE

R. ROBERT-CÉARD

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Place du Molard

Rue de la Tour-Maîtresse

RUE DU

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RU E DU R H ÔN E

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RU

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TOMMY ● HILFIGER

KOOKAI ●

CO U R S D E R I V E

CAFÉ COTON ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

RUE DE RIVE

● GÜBELIN ● ZAZAZOU ● WOLFORD

● TRICOSA

MICHAEL ● KORS

R. ROBERT-CÉARD

BAC À SABLE ●

RUE DU R HÔNE

● TOURBILLON ● GANT ● JEAN RODIN ZARA ● ● GANT MASSIMO DUTTI ● PARIS ● VETEMENTS

Globus

RU E DU M A RCHÉ

BIJOUTERIE ● AIRBIJOUX CLARENCE$ ●

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Place du Molar d

Global Blue Retailer

Having already made a name for itself in the womenswear fashion scene, Bongénie Grieder is turning its attention to luxury menswear. The store in Geneva now has a dedicated space for men’s fashion and accessories from brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Paul Smith and Tom Ford. Style-conscious customers will enjoy browsing the latest collections in a chic and contemporary atmosphere.

Bongénie Grieder, 34 rue du Marché, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 818 1111, bongenie-grieder.ch * for map go to page 46

● HACKETT

● SANDRO MAJE

R U E D ' I TA L I E

Department Store

● CHARIVARI

Featured In This Issue

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save money on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join

50 | G U I D E

ST MORITZ TINUS

COPPILIA SPORT ● HAWICK ●

BRIONI ●

EBNETER-BIEL ●

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● JET SET

● BENETTON

VI

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DAVIDOFF ● ● ESCADA

GL

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● ON F E IT T VU CLE ● U I S VA N E L S LO I● RP C & A UC ● G I AR LG I BU CC PU O ILI EM IU ● UM MI ER ● ● TI ON AR LL C E BI ● ● AC UR ’S S RS TO CH UR VE UR DE ● ● CH SA LA AS S CO NI LE AMB ELIN S● DE ● GÜB ME ● OM ● SP ON OI HI TR AS ER SF Y GN ● N’ RE WA P ME S IK AS ● ME PT ● ER OM NO ND GE SP SA OI AU TR JIL ● ● OO CH N● MY ● RE ER JIM AU GN HL BO LP RA LIN ● I● DO MU L IAN ER GI ● VIA AM ML NE NA ● D KIE M E EG EL ● ER Z RB 6 ES HE P.2 AD SC RC SA LE T ● R

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Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

GR

AS EV

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) © GORUNWAY.COM; (RIGHT AND BOTTOM) © GORUNWAY.COM /ARMANDO GRILLO

S H O P | 51

GUCCI Gucci’s current menswear collection illustrates the label’s expertise in classic wardrobe staples and features an androgynous twist. Traditionally an item of women’s clothing, the pussy bow blouse is a key piece in the current collection for men, and can be combined with this season’s vibrant orange shoulder bag and the Gucci loafer, which has been given a cosy twist for autumn/winter 2015/16.

Gucci, Via Serlas 22, 7500 St Moritz, +41 (0)81 837 2907, gucci.com

globalblue.com

52

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So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 30: The Write Place

Написанному верить Джош Симс рассказывает о швейцарских компаниях, которые специализируются на письменных принадлежностях и доказывают, что любовь к технологиям и изобретательности в этой стране распространяется не только на часы В сфере письменных принадлежностей достижения Швейцарии часто остаются недооцененным. Принято считать, что лучшие в мире ручки производятся в Германии: в конце концов, именно там появились и работают Pelikan, Montblanc, Faber Castell, Bossert & Erhard и другие компании. Но чуть южнее процветает совсем другой вид этой индустрии, в центре внимания которой — иной подход к письменным приборам. Пользуясь национальными стереотипами, немецкая инженерия противопоставлена швейцарскому дизайну, и в Швейцарии менее прославленные производители (как, например, Wagner) выпускают ручки — не такие традиционные и более доступные по цене. Характерный пример — компания Prodir, для которой собственная принадлежность к Швейцарии может быть поводом для изящного юмора. Так, в недавней рассылке остроумно отмечалось, что эта страна стала родиной не только Ле Корбюзье, но и альпийского горна, нудистского хайкинга, единоборства швинген и 700000 коров. Кроме того, в этом бюллетене говорится, что миссия Prodir — обеспечивать «хороший дизайн, хорошие заменяемые стержни и хорошую цену». Компания следует дизайнерскому принципу «меньше значит больше» и девизу «уменьшить до максимума». Все это в полной мере проявилось в новинке — ручке DS9. В ее дизайне соединяются различные виды отделок (матовый или с покрытием фрост корпус, globalblue.com

полированные или прозрачные зажим и кнопка) и необычные цвета (например, цементный серый, джинсовый и закатный оранжевый). И что самое важное, ручка оснащена фирменным стержнем Floating Ball. Округлость наконечника переходит в овал кнопки, и эти обтекаемые формы завораживают. Дизайнеры Prodir тщательно продумали каждую деталь. Как говорится на сайте компании, «асимметричное соединение зажима и корпуса добавляет легкой иронии подчеркнуто классическому дизайну». Кто бы мог подумать, что ручка может быть ироничной! Нельзя не отметить, что DS9 подразумевает качественный продукт по доступной цене. Таков швейцарский демократичный дизайн в лучшем своем проявлении. Дизайнер Prodir Кристоф Шнуг считает, что подобные «необычные сочетания становятся узнаваемыми»: «Неожиданный элемент зачастую делает дизайн эффектным, мгновенно привлекая внимание. Я надеюсь, что когда кто-то берет эту ручку, он или она думает: «Я откуда-то ее уже знаю. Мне уже наверняка приходилось ей пользоваться». Если так происходит, значит, у продукта есть душа. Красивые вещи не должны быть слишком нарочитыми, чтобы притягивать взгляды». Вряд ли можно вообразить нечто более простое и элегантное, чем карандаш. Может показаться, что в эпоху сенсорных экранов столь скромная вещь больше не актуальна, но это не так. Кароль Хюбшер, управляющий директор семейного предприятия Caran d’Ache со 100-летней историей, отмечает: продажи карандашей, и простых, и цветных, сейчас на подъеме. Все производственные мощности Caran d’Ache сконцентрированы в одном месте неподалеку от Женевы, а продукция может составить достойную конкуренцию Prodir. Например, сменный стержень для ручек Goliath позволит написать непрерывную строку длиной около 8 км. Однако понастоящему мировую славу компании Caran d’Ache принесли карандаши: к производству

54

этих базовых инструментов для письма она подходит со знаменитой швейцарской точностью. Возможно, поэтому Пикассо и Миро так любили эту марку. «Карандаш не исчез из нашей жизни, размышляет Хюбшер. - С ним вы творите руками, активируя прямую связь между мозгом и бумагой. И я думаю, что в этом есть нечто особенное. Кроме того, планшеты и смартфоны — сравнительно новое явление, а карандаши остаются авторитетной технологией на протяжении многих, многих лет». И эта технология требует специальных материалов: например, калифорнийский кедр не раскалывается при заточке и приятно пахнет. Caran d’Ache прорабатывает идею естественных ароматов, выпуская карандаши из темного швейцарского дерева с необычным запахом дыма. Технологических нюансов множество: например, глина и специальный пигмент вымачиваются в специальном масле, чтобы карандаш оставлял след на бумаге. Формула этого масла и другие профессиональные процессы остаются производственной тайной. «Даже ребенок знает, что такое хороший карандаш. Это просто нужно прочувствовать.

Есть вещи, познать которые можно только через негативный опыт, - говорит Хюбшер.

- Производство карандашей похоже на кулинарию: невозможно готовить прекрасное блюдо из посредственных ингредиентов». По ее словам, формула масла для этого бренда вырабатывалась десятилетиями: «Это наше ноу-хау: перечень компонентов, время погружения различных видов графита в состав, замена масла. Как это часто бывает в Швейцарии, качественный результат получается благодаря знаниям и наблюдениям, полученным в результате многолетнего опыта».

wagnerswitzerland.com, prodir.com, carandache.com 52: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы не совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и не забудьте сохранить ваши чеки.

PHOTO: BENOIT LINERO

2. При выезде По пути домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.

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Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 or +800 32 111 111 Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

55

美文翻译

30: The Write Place 笔的国度

瑞士人的独到匠心与精湛工艺绝不只限于腕表与时 钟，他们打造的钢笔与书写工具同样创意卓绝，令人 赞叹。Josh Sims报道 在钢笔的世界里，瑞士是低调的革新者。或许不少人 把德国视为全球书写工具制造之典范，毕竟百利金 （Pelikan）、万宝龙（Montblanc）、辉柏嘉（Faber Castell）和Bossert & Erhard等著名品牌均发源于 此。但是，德国以南的制笔业却呈现出一番截然不同 的面貌，出产的书写工具也大相径庭。若是套用人们 对德瑞两国的刻板印象，这就是德国工艺与瑞士设 计的比拼。在瑞士有不少像Wagner这样名不见经传 的制造商，其产品既不因循守旧，价格也算实惠。 就拿普罗迪（Prodir）来说吧。对于自身的瑞 士标识，该品牌表现得颇有些诙谐玩味。品牌的 最新一则通告中提到，瑞士不只是建筑师勒•柯布 西耶（Le Corbusier）的出生地，还孕育了阿尔

卑斯长号、裸体登山、自成一体的瑞士摔跤术 （Schwingen）以及七十万头奶牛。这则通告 还声明，普罗迪的宗旨便是提供“精美的设计、 耐用的可替换笔芯与实惠的价格” ，并奉行简洁 为美的设计原则与“简约至极”的金科玉律。这 些理念在普罗迪新款DS9钢笔中展露无遗。这 款钢笔以外部细节设计的混搭（亚光外壳或磨 砂外壳，带有抛光或透明笔夹和按钮）与生僻 颜色的运用（水泥灰、牛仔蓝与日落橙）令人眼 前一亮，更重要的是，它采用了普罗迪独家浮球 笔尖系统。 普罗迪的钢笔体现了笔身外形的细微变化， 令人赞叹：笔尖本是圆形的，随着流线旋转至笔 夹上的按钮，外形却渐渐变成了椭圆。普罗迪 的设计师在细节方面经过了深思熟虑，品牌网 站也表示“笔夹和笔帽之间非对称的连接部位 略带讽刺意味地打破了原本刻意凸显经典风格 的设计。”谁能想到一支钢笔还能表达讽刺意 味呢？然而，重点在于这些钢笔款式众多，价格 非常实惠。瑞士的大众化设计在这里体现得淋 漓尽致。 普罗迪的设计师Christoph Schnug解释 道，他们想做出“出人意料且具有辨识度的感 觉。一个具有突破性的元素往往能够成为画龙 点睛之笔。这是一个能够立刻抓住顾客眼球的 特色。”他补充说，当一个人拿起钢笔， “我希望 他或她想到， ‘我知道这笔是哪儿生产的。我以前 看到过的，不是吗？’这样一来，产品便有了灵 魂。美好的东西不需通过叫卖来吸引注意。” 说起来，还有什么比铅笔更加优雅而简单 呢？在这个触摸屏的时代，要是您认为像铅笔 这样简陋的产品已经风光不再，那您就得好好 想想了。Caran d’Ache是一家拥有百年历史的 家族企业，据该品牌总经理Carole Hubscher 表示，铅笔的销量——不论是彩色的还是素色 的——一直在节节攀升。Caran d’Ache的所 有产品都产自日内瓦城外的同一处工厂，而其生 产的钢笔亦能与普罗迪相媲美：就拿Goliath 笔芯来说吧，它的墨水容量极大，书写距离长达 8公里。然而，Caran d’Ache之所以能名扬四 海，更是因为它把瑞士工艺的精微细致用到了 最基本的书写工具——铅笔的制作上来。或许 这就是毕加索和胡安·米罗等名流都钟爱Caran d’Ache产品的原因所在吧。 “铅笔的市场还有很大的拓展空 间， ”Hubscher说道。 “你能用铅笔来进行徒手 创作，从而在你的头脑和画纸之间形成了一道直 接的关联，我觉得这一点有着非同寻常的意义。 另外，平板电脑和智能手机都是相对较新的产 品；反观铅笔行业已经发展了很久很久，有了一

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‫خاصة كخشب أرز كاليفورنيا‬ ‫هي تكنولوجيا تتطلّب موادا ً ّ‬ ‫الذي يكن أن يُبى من دون تشقّق وتفوح منه رائحة عطرة‪.‬‬ ‫لعبت ‪ Caran d’Ache‬عل وتر الشذا بعد أن قدّمت قلم‬ ‫رصاص ُصنع من الخشب السويسي الذي تفوح منه رائحة دخان‬ ‫تيّزه‪.‬‬ ‫من بي أسار الهنة عمليات الصناعة التخصصة عل‬ ‫غرار خلطة الزيت الشمعي الذي يغ ّمس فيه الطي والادة‬ ‫الل ّونة الجوهرية لصنع قلم رصاص يخلّف أثرا ً عل الورق‪.‬‬ ‫كل طفل أي من أقلم الرصاص جيّد‬ ‫تقول ‪“ :Hubscher‬يدرك ّ‬ ‫النوعيّة‪ .‬فهم يشعرون به‪ .‬هذا درس تستقيه بعد أن ت ّر بتجارب‬ ‫سيئة‪ .‬وتضيف‪“ :‬تشبه صناعة أقلم الرصاص الطهي‪ :‬ل يكن‬ ‫أن تصنع طبقاً لذيذا ً بك ّونات سيئة‪ ”.‬إذ تخّضت خلطة الزيت‬ ‫التي تُستخدم لصنع القلم عن سنوات وسنوات من خبة تنامت‬ ‫مع الوقت‪ .‬من هنا ت ّم تحديد مك ّونات الخلطة ونوع الرصاص‬ ‫الستخدم ومدّة وضعه فيها والوتية التي يجب اعتمدها لتغيي‬ ‫الزيت‪ .‬شأن هذه القلم شأن النتجات السويسية الخرى‪ :‬هي‬ ‫وليدة معرفة وانتباه يُكتسبان مع الخبة والتم ّرس‪.‬‬ ‫‪،wagnerswitzerland.com‬‬ ‫‪،prodir.com‬‬ ‫‪carandache.com‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 52‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع‬ ‫الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪270,000‬‬

‫متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن‬ ‫الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع‬ ‫خطواتناالسهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ‬ ‫بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة‬ ‫لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫خدمة الزبائن ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111 or +800 32 111 111‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل‬ ‫القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة‬ ‫نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد‬ ‫فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫”。‪套成熟完善的工艺技术‬‬ ‫‪这是一套需要配以专业材料的工艺技术：比如‬‬ ‫‪说加利福尼亚雪松木，这种木材不仅削起来不会断‬‬ ‫‪裂，而且闻起来很舒服。Caran d’Ache还推出了一‬‬ ‫‪款用瑞士黑木制成的铅笔，它有着一种非常独特的‬‬ ‫。‪烟熏味，足见他们确是在气味方面下足了功夫‬‬ ‫‪该品牌的专业工序——比如说蜡质油的配制方‬‬ ‫‪法；粘土和铅笔的色素芯材要被浸泡在蜡质油中，‬‬ ‫‪这样铅笔才能在纸上画出痕迹来——是行业中的不‬‬ ‫。‪解之秘‬‬ ‫‪“所有的孩子都知道一支好用的铅笔是什么‬‬ ‫‪样的。你必须去感受它。这是你频频在糟糕的体验‬‬ ‫‪当中学会的那种东西，‬‬ ‫。‪” Hubscher说道‬‬ ‫‪“制作铅笔‬‬ ‫‪和烹饪有很多相似之处：不够好的食材做不出珍馐‬‬ ‫‪佳肴来。”她补充说，该品牌的炼油配方“是我们钻‬‬ ‫‪研了数十年的专有技术——要放些什么原料，每一‬‬ ‫‪种铅应该浸泡多长时间，多久要换一次油。和许多低‬‬ ‫‪调的瑞士产品一样，这是制造业沉淀多年的专业知‬‬ ‫”。‪识与专注态度之结晶‬‬

‫‪wagnerswitzerland.com,‬‬ ‫‪prodir.com, carandache.com‬‬ ‫‪52: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪畅购全球，尊享退税‬‬ ‫‪当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，‬‬ ‫‪环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free‬‬ ‫。‪Shopping）为您节约购物开销‬‬ ‫‪每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global‬‬ ‫‪Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只‬‬ ‫‪是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联‬‬ ‫‪（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税‬‬ ‫‪过程：‬‬

‫‪1. 消费购物‬‬ ‫‪无论您在哪里消费，请索要Global Blue退税表格，‬‬ ‫。‪并记得保存小票‬‬

‫‪2. 申请退税‬‬ ‫‪当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台‬‬ ‫‪请他们盖章，然后再到环球蓝联退税点领取您的退‬‬ ‫。‪税款‬‬ ‫‪联系方式：‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111 or +800 32 111 111‬‬ ‫‪请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除‬‬ ‫‪管理手续费。 部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收‬‬ ‫。‪取现金退税手续费‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪The Write Place: 30‬‬

‫موطن الكتابة‬

‫ل يقتص البداع والتكنولوجيا ف سويسا عل ساعات اليد‬ ‫والحائط‪ :‬إذ تُعتب هذه الدولة موط َن أه ّم رواد صناعة القلم‬ ‫وأدوات الكتابة‪ .‬تقرير ‪Josh Sims‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: (BOTTOM) CHRISTIAN CHAIZE‬‬

‫ف عال ابتكار القلم‪ ،‬غالباً ما يت ّم الستخفاف بسويسا‪.‬‬ ‫بالعادة‪ ،‬يعتب العال أ ّن ألانيا تتصدّر لئحة أفضل صانعي أدوات‬ ‫تأسست علمات تجارية كبية عل غرار‬ ‫الكتابة ف العال ففيها ّ‬ ‫‪ Pelikan‬و‪ Montblanc‬و‪ Faber Castell‬و‪Bossert‬‬ ‫‪ .& Erhard‬لكن عل حدودها الجنوبية نشأ نوع مختلف من‬ ‫منحى آخر من أدوات الكتابة‪ .‬ولنقل‬ ‫صناعة القلم يركّز عل‬ ‫ً‬ ‫الوضع باللجوء إل الصورة النمطية الوطنية السائدة‪ ،‬يكن القول‬ ‫إنّه عل هذه الحدود تتبارى الهندسة اللانية مع التصميم‬ ‫أقل شهرة عل غرار ‪ Wagner‬أدوات‬ ‫السويسي فتُنتج شكات ّ‬ ‫أقل تقليدية بأسعار جيدة‪.‬‬ ‫للكتابة ّ‬ ‫فلنأخذ الص ّنع ‪ Prodir‬عل سبيل الثال‪ .‬هي شكة‬ ‫تسخر بلطافة من الطابع السويسي الذي ييّزها‪ .‬ففي أحدث‬ ‫نشة إخبارية لها‪ ،‬كشفت أ ّن سويسا تشكّل مسقط رأس ‪Le‬‬ ‫‪ ،Corbusier‬لكن بالضافة إل ذلك تشتهر ببوقها الخشبي‬ ‫وبمرسة الناس فيها رياضة تسلّق الجبال عراة وبأنواع مصارعة‬ ‫تُعرف باسم ‪ Schwingen‬وبض ّمها ‪ 700‬ألف بقرة‪ .‬لك ّن النشة‬ ‫الخبارية تكشف أيضاً أ ّن مه ّمة ‪ Prodir‬تكمن ف توفي “تصميم‬ ‫جيد وخرطوش إضا ّف لعادة الستخدام وسعر مغر” وأ ّن الشكة‬ ‫تعتمد مبدأ “الفضل بالقليل” وشعار “الح ّد إل أق” الدرجات”‪.‬‬ ‫تنعكس هذه النقا“ كلّها ف تصميم ‪ Prodir‬الجديد أي قلم‬ ‫‪ .DS9‬يض ّم الخي تفاصيل سطحية دقيقة (بغلف خارجي ل ّاع‬ ‫أو غي ل ّاع ومشبك ُمل ّمع أو شفاف وجزء ضاغط) ويأت بألوان‬ ‫مختلفة غي عادية (منها الرمادي السمنتي وأزرق الدنيم والبتقال‬ ‫الذي يعكس غروب الشمس) وأخيا ً وليس آخرا ً نظام ‪Prodir‬‬ ‫للكرة الدوارة العائة‪.‬‬ ‫يجسد تغييات طفيفة ف‬ ‫ما يثي العجاب هو أ ّن القلم ّ‬ ‫شكله‪ ،‬ل سيّم بعدما استحال رأسه الدائري تدريجياً رأساً بيضاوياً‪.‬‬ ‫أول مص ّممو ‪ Prodir‬التفاصيل انتباهاً بالغاً‪ ،‬إذ يشي موقع‬

‫العلمة التجارية اللكتون أ ّن “الوصلة غي التكافئة بي الشبك‬ ‫والغطاء جاءت لتسخر من تصميم القلم الكلسيك التع ّمد‪ ”.‬من‬ ‫كان ليعتقد أ ّن قلمً قد يتض ّمن سخرية؟ مع ذلك‪ ،‬يبقى التكيز‬ ‫الساس عل أ ّن القلم قد ُص ّمم بدقّة لك ّنه يُباع بسع ٍر مغرٍ‪ ،‬عاكساً‬ ‫بذلك أفضل حالت التصميم السويسي الديقراطي‪.‬‬ ‫يفس ‪ Christoph Schnug‬مص ّمم ‪ Prodir‬أ ّن الهدف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الجوهري يكمن ف “الك ّونات الفاجئة التي يكن التع ّرف إليها‪.‬‬ ‫فكل عنص يكس اللل ف شكل القلم إنّ ا هو تفصيل يضمن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فعالية التصميم‪ .‬هي سمة تجذب النتباه ولو للحظة‪ ”.‬ويضيف‬ ‫متحدّثاً عن القلم‪“ :‬عندما يلتقطه أحد‪ ،‬آمل أن يشعر بأنّه ليس‬ ‫بغريب عليه وأنّه مألوف بالنسبة إليه‪ ”.‬ففي هذه الحالة‪ ،‬يتمتّع‬ ‫القلم بروح خاصة به‪ .‬النتجات الجميلة ل تتوق إل الهتمم‪”.‬‬ ‫بالفعل‪ ،‬فم القلم الذي يتغلّب عل قلم الرصاص بساط ًة‬ ‫ولكل من يعتقد أ ّن الدهر قد أكل وشب عل قلم‬ ‫وأناقةً؟ ّ‬ ‫الرصاص ف عص الشاشة التي تعمل باللمس‪ ،‬لك أن تتاجع عن‬ ‫تفكيك‪ .‬بحسب ‪ Carole Hubscher‬الديرة العامة لشكة‬ ‫‪ Caran d’Ache‬العائلية التي تعمل ف هذا الجال منذ ‪100‬‬ ‫عام‪ ،‬تشهد مبيعات أقلم الرصاص‪ ،‬العادي منها والل ّون‪ ،‬ازدهارا ً‬ ‫ف الونة الخية‪ .‬تص ّنع الشكة منتجاتها ف موقع واحد بالقرب‬ ‫من جنيف وهي تص ّنع أيضاً القلم لشكات منافسة لها عل غرار‬ ‫‪ .Prodir‬فخرطوشة ‪ Goliath‬التي تنتجها عل سبيل الثال توفّر‬ ‫حبا ً يكفي لرسم خ ّط عل طول ‪ 8‬كيلومتات‪ .‬مع ذلك‪ ،‬تشتهر‬ ‫شكة ‪ Caran d’Ache‬عالياً لنّها تعكس الدقة السويسية ف‬ ‫أبسط أدوات الكتابة أي أقلم الرصاص‪ .‬لعلّه السبب الذي دفع‬ ‫بأمثال ‪ Picasso‬و‪ Miró‬لختيار هذه النتجات وتفضيلها عل‬ ‫غيها‪.‬‬ ‫تشح ‪ Hubscher‬قائلةً‪“ :‬ل يزال مكان قلم الرصاص‬ ‫محفوظاً‪ ،‬فهو الذي يساعدك ف ترجمة ابتكارك عل الورق مس ّهلً‬ ‫بذلك الرتبا“ الباش ما بي الدماغ والورق‪ ،‬المر الذي أعتبه‬ ‫مميزا ً للغاية‪ .‬أضف إل ذلك أ ّن اللواح والهواتف الذكية ل تزال‬ ‫متسخ منذ فتة‬ ‫جديدة نسبياً ف حي أ ّن وجود أقلم الرصاص ّ‬ ‫طويلة‪”.‬‬

58

PHOTO: PHOTOPRESS/IWC

POSTCARD

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN In 1868 Boston watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones founded the International Watch Company in Schafhausen, bringing together inimitable Swiss watchmaking skills and the best of American production techniques. Jones was a pioneer in harnessing Swiss watchmaking expertise with the technological advancements of the time, revolutionising the world of fne watchmaking. Located on the banks of the river Rhine at the edge of the old town in Schafhausen, the main factory now also houses globalblue.com

the company’s headquarters and museum.

When it opened in 1993, the museum was the frst such facility for a watch manufacturer in Switzerland, and it ofers an absorbing insight into IWC Schafhausen’s history of innovation and craftsmanship. Today, the company continues to dazzle the horological world with new additions to its best-selling collections such as Portugieser, Ingenieur, Aquatimer, Da Vinci, Portofno and Pilot’s Watches. th IWC Schafhausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8201 Schafhausen, +41 (0)52 635 6363, iwc.com * for map go to page 46

DESIGNER OUTLET BY TROIS POMMES

WOMEN– MENSWEAR ZÜRICH WOLLISHOFEN, SEESTRASSE 463 ALEX ANDER McQ UEEN ALTUZ ARR A A Z ZEDINE AL AÏ A BALENCIAGA BAL M AIN BLUEM ARINE BOUCHR A JARR AR CÉLINE D OLCE & GABBANA ETRO GIVENCHY JITROIS JONATHAN SAUNDERS L ANVIN M ARC JACOBS M ARNI MIU MIU PETER PILOT TO PROENZ A SCHOULER PR ABAL GURUNG PR ADA STELL A JE AN STELL A McC ARTNEY THAKO ON THE ROW TOM FORD JEANS PAIGE R13 SHOES AQ UA Z ZUR A GIANVITO ROSSI GIVENCHY PROENZ A SCHOULER STALLION BO OTS TABITHA SIM MONS

As you’re visiting Jelmoli, ⁄

why not explore Zurich!

–