SWITZERLAND | 瑞士 | ШВЕЙЦАРИЯ |
SWITZERLAND Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2019
EXPLORE SWITZERLAND: enjoy the luxury highlights of this beautiful country with our essential guide IN GOOD TIME: discover the story of Switzerland’s outstanding timepiece makers
سوي رسا
A SHOPPING EXPERIENCE OF A DIFFERENT KIND Visit us in Basel, Bern, Geneva, Lausanne, Locarno, Lucerne, Marin, St. Gallen, Wallisellen, Zurich
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www.christ-swiss.ch
WELCOME TO
CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY QUALITY, STYLE AND ELEGANCE Welcome to the CHRIST collection of watches and jewelry. Life is full of both little moments and big memories - what better way to celebrate them than with a stunning piece from the world of CHRIST? CHRIST is a traditional Swiss company that
has been embracing Swiss values for more than 40 years. As with everything Swiss made, CHRIST is known for the big variety / flawless craftsmanship, first-class customer experience and expert advice it offers at more than 60 different locations. Discerning shoppers know where to find the most stylish selection of world-renowned top brands.
SOME OF OUR STORE LOCATIONS Zurich
Jelmoli, Bahnhofstrasse 78 | Airport Landside Floor, Level 0 | Mainstation Shopville Passage Löwenstrasse Lucerne Kramgasse 8 Interlaken Höheweg 2 Montreux 26 Grand Rue Geneva 11 rue du Mont-Blanc Lugano Via Nassa 15 Find more locations on www.christ-swiss.ch
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Austria Barcelona Belgium Copenhagen Germany
أملانيا 德国 Германия Helsinki Area Istanbul Italy Lebanon London Madrid Milan Netherlands Oslo Paris
巴黎 Portugal Prague Rome
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this beautiful country. Switzerland has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 30. Don’t miss our feature on the fascinating history of Swiss watch brands (page 24), and enjoy our round-up of the best new-season looks. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save money when shopping in Switzerland. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Switzerland. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.
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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Welcome to Switzerland
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CONTRIBUTORS RUI RICARDO
SALLY MCILHONE As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to Refinery29, Stylist and Total Film online. globalblue.com
AARON CARLINE Aaron Carline, a senior designer at SHOP, is passionate about editorial and digital design culture. During his spare time he can often be found reading, playing football and experimenting with new design technology.
GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications.
ILLUSTRATION: RUI RICARDO - FOLIO ART
Rui Ricardo created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Switzerland. His highly polished style is perfectly showcased in this striking depiction of models at Geneva’s Bain des Pâquis swimming baths, with the city’s fountain, Jet d’Eau, and the Rive Gauche in the background. Rui’s other clients include the Wall Street Journal, British Airways and Esquire magazine. Discover SHOP Switzerland and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
Since 1891 the most exclusive shopping location for international fashion brands
www.bongenie-grieder.ch
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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L
PUBLISHING
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Rui Ricardo - Folio Art Contributor Ruairidh Pritchard Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editors Ye Ye, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik
G LO B A L B L U E S W I T Z E R L A N D Managing director Ronald Christen Marketing manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing coordinator Ralph Wutscher Global Blue, Zürichstrasse 38, CH-8306 Brüttisellen, Switzerland
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Midweight designer Kiranjeet Kaur Junior designer Tatjiana Antoniou Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue
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CONTENTS
24
NEWS 22
SHOP selects a standout piece from Switzerland this season
Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
PRODUCTS 17
FEATURE IN GOOD TIME 24
Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
SHOP WINDOW 20 Discover the Geneva boutique of timepiece maker Jacob & Co
Switzerland has been renowned as the centre of the watch industry for more than 400 years and today it continues to produce outstanding timepieces. Ginger Rose Clark explores its horological story
GUIDE 30
20
Maps and guides to Switzerland’s top shops and destinations
HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 42 The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
TRANSLATIONS 43 中文翻 译 44 Русский Перевод 49 ترجمة باللّغة العرب ّية SOUVENIR 50 The essential item to bring home
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Above (clockwise from top): Vacheron Constantin’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers Phoenix watch; a shoe from Mango’s spring/summer 2019 collection; Jacob & Co’s new boutique in Geneva
PHOTOS: (BOTTOM LEFT) ALIA CHAKUKOVA; (BOTTOM RIGHT) STARP ESTUDI
CHECK OUT 16
CHECK OUT
GOLDEN TIME Patek Philippe’s Twenty-4 collection of watches has been synonymous with elegance since it was launched almost 20 years ago. Now the brand has unveiled an updated, automatic version of the design. Feminine and stylish, the new watch has been conceived as the perfect companion for the active, confident woman. It is available in diamond-set rose gold and stainless steel and comes with a round case and a caliber 324 S C Save money by shopping tax free, see page 42
self-winding mechanism. It features the same articulated bracelet as the original collection. Modern yet retro, this is a fashion-forward piece that offers technical excellence. fm Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Automatic watch, CHF 50,000, Patek Philippe, 41 rue du RhĂ´ne, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 809 5050, patek.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 36
P R O D U C T S | 17
PERFECT TRAVELLER Steer away from black, and opt for printed grey tones for the spring/ summer season
Zara jacket, CHF 89.90, Zara, 2-4 place du Molard, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 317 7880, zara.com Ermenegildo Zegna bag, CHF 3,655, Bongénie, 34 rue du Marché, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 818 1111, zegna.com
PHOTO: XXXXXXX
Tumi suitcase, CHF 800, Leder Locher, Münsterhof 18, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 211 1864, tumi.com
Bershka jeans, CHF 35.90, Bershka, 9 rue du Marché, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 318 8400, bershka.com
Save money by shopping tax free, see page 44
Diesel shoes, CHF 179, Diesel, Bahnhofstrasse 84, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)43 497 2280, diesel.com
18 | P R O D U C T S
SUMMER JEANS
Denim will never go out of fashion; for added elegance pair yours with classic accessories and gold jewellery
Fendi necklace, CHF 1,100, Fendi, 62 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 319 3010, fendi.com
Escada bag, CHF 1,199, Escada, 112 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 311 0252, escada.com
Swarovski bracelet, CHF 149, Globus, Schweizergasse 11, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)58 578 1111, swarovski.com
Save money by shopping tax free, see page 42
Bulgari scarf, CHF 260, Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 212 5303, bulgari.com
Benoit de Gorski earrings, price on request, Benoit de Gorski, 8 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 810 8587, benoitdegorski.ch
S H O P | 19
Chanel hat, from CHF 1,300, Chanel, 43 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 316 1100, chanel.com
PHOTOS: (JEANS) EMMANUELE PENNACHIO; (WATCH) ROLEX/CLAUDE BOSSEL; (SHOES) STARP ESTUDI
Celine by Hedi Slimane sunglasses, CHF 490, Celine, Storchengasse 23, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)43 344 7260, celine.com
Rolex watch, price on request, Bucherer, 45 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 319 6266, rolex.com
7 For All Mankind jumpsuit, CHF 410, 7 For All Mankind, 7 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 7460, 7forallmankind.com
globalblue.com
Mango shoes, CHF 79.95, Mango, 8-10 rue du Marché, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 5570, mango.com
SHOP WINDOW
Jacob & Co opened its first boutique in Geneva towards the end of 2018. The watch and jewellery house was founded in New York in 1986 and its timepieces are made in Geneva, so the location for this new store is more than fitting. The boutique has an elegant interior design, and here visitors can discover the brand’s fascinating pieces, including the Astronomia watch collection and the colourful Save money by shopping tax free, see page 42
Infinia jewellery range. Jacob & Co is a master of its art, using difficult gem-setting techniques and advanced engineering in its beautiful jewellery and watch designs. grc Jacob & Co, Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva, 33 quai des Bergues, 1201 Geneva, +41 (0)22 310 6962, jacobandco.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 35
PHOTO: ALIA CHAKUKOVA
AT HOME IN GENEVA
SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE
Find out more at globalblue.com
22 | N E W S
SHOP HIGHLIGHT SAINT LAURENT*
Since Saint Laurent was founded in 1961, the house has typified contemporary Parisian glamour. Different personalities come together in Anthony Vaccarello’s eclectic spring/summer collection for the label. Each look is an expression of a dynamic individuality created by mixing elements of different decades. Boyish silhouettes hold a feminine confidence, while tailoring from the 60s interpreted in jersey renews the traditional couture approach. The resulting collection underlines Saint Laurent’s never-ending ability to exemplify elegant dressing. Saint Laurent, 84 rue du Rhône, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 581 6420, ysl.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 36
ON THE CASE Vocier recently unveiled its new line of modular luggage called Avant. The cases in the collection use powerful magnets and have a mechanical latch system for flexible luggage options. Thanks to the trademarked Interlink technique, a briefcase, women’s work bag, holdall, travel wallets, the Dopp toiletry kit and the optional Zero Crease™ compartment can be paired with the Avant carry-on suitcase as required. Vocier’s innovative new mix-and-match travel solution is ideal for modern-day globetrotters. grc Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1, 8021 Zürich, +41 (0)44 220 4411, vocier.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 32 *SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent
S H O P | 23
WELCOME TO CARTIER Cartier’s Zürich boutique, which has been in existence since 1978, recently had a makeover. Aside from celebrating the brand’s ties to Zürich with local references, the interior design also has elements which are reminiscent of a Swiss chalet. The transformed space has been designed to make visitors feel at home, with light, airy and warm features. In this elegant setting
customers are handed a menu and can enjoy unique food and drink creations while discovering Cartier’s magnificent jewellery collections. They can try one of the brand’s timepieces while their watch is being repaired or personalise a Cartier fragrance bottle with an engraved illustration. grc Cartier, Bahnhofstrasse 47, 8001 Zürich, +41 (0)44 211 1141, cartier.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 32
UNIQUE CONCEPT After creating a name as a destination for all things street culture in Paris, concept store Nous recently opened two outposts in Geneva. At the store in Geneva’s centre and the pictured space in Geneva airport, both inaugurated in 2018, you can shop a curated edit of streetwear, timepieces, sneakers, lifestyle items, cosmetics and hi-tech products from some of the world’s most covetable contemporary brands, be it Nixon, Filling Pieces or Neighborhood. grc Nous, International departures area, Terminal 1, 1215 Geneva; 4 rue du Mont Blanc, 1201 Geneva, +41 (0)22 920 0955, nous.paris FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 35 globalblue.com
IN GOOD TIME
Switzerland has been known as the centre of the watch industry for more than 400 years and today it continues to produce outstanding timepieces. Ginger Rose Clark explores its horological story Below: Vacheron Constantin’s bespoke Les Cabinotiers Phoenix watch
26 | F E AT U R E
Blancpain is the oldest Swiss watch company still in existence
S
wiss-made is one of the most respected references in the world of watchmaking. It is a carefully protected appellation, determined by exacting standards. The beginnings of the Swiss watch industry reach as far back as the 16th century, but its rise has not always been a smooth trajectory. The inception of Swiss watchmaking was a direct result of the arrival of Protestantism in Geneva. In 1541, Protestant reformer John Calvin banned the wearing of ornamental objects; faced with the prospect of losing their jobs, goldsmiths turned to watchmaking instead. So successful was this transition that a century later many of Geneva’s watchmakers felt challenged by too much competition and began to leave the city, opting for the Jura 43 49
44
mountains instead. To this day, some of the biggest Swiss watch brands are headquartered in this region. One such is Blancpain. The oldest Swiss watch company still in existence, it was founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, who set up his workshop on the top floor of his house in the village of Villeret. More than 280 years later, now headquartered at Le Brassus, Blancpain proudly produces watches that are designed and assembled in Switzerland. Brands acknowledge and pay tribute to the beginnings that shaped them. Blancpain, for example, has a collection called Villeret, its place of origin. Vacheron Constantin, the third oldest Swiss watch brand (after Blancpain and Favre-Leuba), offers a bespoke service called Above: Blancpain’s Great Beauties collection
S H O P | 27
competition and industrialisation posed a threat to the Swiss watch industry. Switzerland’s watchmakers tried to flood the US market with cheap watches, but to no avail. It was only when they adopted a new strategy, opting to create better quality, mid-range timepieces, that Swiss brands started to remedy the situation. The 20th century saw a rise in a number of brands, with newcomers such as Corum. Founded in 1955, this brand is headquartered in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a town renowned for watchmaking. Marie-Alexandrine Leibowitch, PR director at Corum, highlights the brand’s relationship with its place of origin. ‘Corum was founded by a family from La Chaux-deFonds and has always had its headquarters there. Its links with the city are therefore very
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) LUCA FASCINI
Les Cabinotiers. This was the name used in the 18th century for the artisans who worked for Geneva’s cabinets, or watchmaking workshops, which were located on the top floor of the city’s buildings in order to benefit from natural light. In the 18th century, pioneer watchmaker Daniel Jeanrichard introduced a labour division system, known as établissage, which was to have a massive impact on the industry. Farmers in the Jura region, who had less agricultural work during the winter months, became specialised in making specific watch parts, which would then be assembled by watchmakers. This was a first step towards the industrialisation of watchmaking and, by 1790, more than 60,000 watches were being exported from Geneva. In the mid to late 1800s, American
Above (clockwise from top left): building a Blancpain watch movement; the brand’s Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante and Villeret Grande Date Jour Rétrograde watches; Vacheron Constantin’s flagship Geneva boutique
strong and most of our suppliers are located in La Chaux-de-Fonds, or nearby.’ This proximity, she adds, is integral to the brand. Of course La Chaux-de-Fonds isn’t the only watchmaking hotspot. Le Brassus is another town famed for its links to the industry, and is home to Audemars Piguet as well as Blancpain. The development of the quartz watch almost led to the demise of Swiss watchmaking. Despite being invented in Switzerland in 1967, it was appropriated by Japanese companies such as Seiko. Faced with this competition and a bad exchange rate, Switzerland’s mechanical watchfocused industry suffered. From 1970 to 1984, the workforce dropped from around 90,000 to 30,000. It was partly due to the founding of Swatch by Nicolas Hayek that Switzerland regained a foothold. Hayek saw the potential of promoting a watch with a more fashion-led aesthetic, and an affordable price-tag, and the world was rapidly won over by Swatch’s plastic watches. Brands also realised that the only way Above (from top): the Corum workshop at La Chaux-de-Fonds; Swatch spring/summer 2019
PHOTOS: (TOP) JOHANN SAUTY; (BOTTOM) SWATCH LTD
28 | F E AT U R E
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) SWATCH LTD
S H O P | 29
to survive was to streamline, integrate production and reorganise. Adopting a luxury positioning in the face of quartz, brands of mechanical watches started to leverage their technical expertise, craftsmanship and rich legacy in order to appeal to customers. The 90s witnessed a surge in sales of mechanical timepieces and it was around this time that luxury conglomerates, in particular the Swatch Group, Richemont and LVMH, started to invest in top-quality brands. The most recent threat to the industry has come in the form of digital timepieces. However, looking at history, it is clear that the Swiss watch brands have always known how to reinvent themselves when faced with a challenge. A leisurely walk through Geneva is proof that Switzerland’s relationship with watches is still very much alive and well. The streets are lined with boutiques from many of the country’s most prestigious haute horlogerie names. It is evident that Swiss-made watches are here to stay Above (from top): a vintage Favre-Leuba pocket watch; Swatch Keith Haring watches from 1986
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Switzerland with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a master chocolatier in Lucerne to the spectacular Jungfrau railway in the Bernese Oberland and more. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/switzerland.
PHOTO: JEROEN SEYFFER/SWISS-IMAGE.CH
SWITZERLAND GUIDE
S H O P | 31
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32 | S W I T Z E R L A N D G U I D E
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● OCH SPORT ● ORIS CHRIST ● ST. ANNAHOF ● ● LEICA ● FOTO GANZ ● LACOSTE VISILAB ● E ● BINDER MOERISCH S S A ● BENCI BROTHERS ● SWATCH COS ● R ● WALDER T LS ● ZUMSTEIN H MASSIMO DUTTI ● I ● BIJOUTERIE URECH S ● NAVYBOOT ● BUCHERER ● JUWELIER GRABER ● FIDELIO Ö ● FALKE OMEGA ● ● CASHMERE HOUSE BOUTIQUE ROMA ● ● BREITLING Cantinetta Antinori FIDELIO RABATT ● ● FURLA P.23 CARTIER ● ● PKZ ● MEISTER SILBER ● PINKO ● WOLFORD ● TEUSCHER ● STEIFF ● MAX & MOI ● KOCHOPTIK● BURTON ● SUIT SUPPLY ● BURBERRY ● MAX MARA ● NAVYBOOT ● BRUNOS ● FIDELIO ● HUBLOT HUGO BOSS ● ● IQOS ● STRELLSON ● PRADA ● TROIS POMMES CHANEL ● ● MAISON GASSMANN ● CHOPARD ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● ● VACHERON CONSTANTIN MARIONNAUD ● ● CÉLINE ● PIAGET TROIS POMMES ● MEISTER UHREN ● ● GÜBELIN ● H&M ● JIL SANDER ● VAN LAACK BREGUET ● ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● MAGGS BRIONI ● ● VALENTINO ● AUDEMARS PIGUET VESTIBULE ● PATEK PHILIPPE ● ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● PHASE EIGHT ● MONCLER DEECEE BOTTEGA VENETA ● ● BOGNER SPORT ● BULGARI STYLE ● ● LA PERLA TA ● HEINICKE UHREN MONTBLANC ● ● TOD'S ● MULBERRY LS LAS PERLITAS ● ● LOUIS VUITTON PAUL & SHARK ● TR ● LOOQ ● MCM ● TOM FORD ● MUSIK HUG ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● AS ● ERNST LOOSLI Zeughauskeller ● LEDER LOCHER GIORGIO ARMANI ● BA SE ● GRIEDER ● BOGNER ST EI ● HERMÈS PL AT ● HARRY WINSTON Z Parade● MUSIK HUG ● BLANCPAIN Platz ● OGIER ● JECKLIN ● GUCCI SE S ● WHISTLES ● LORO PIANA A CONFISERIE SPRÜNGLI ● G ● JIMMY CHOO HACKETT ● EN R ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● GOLFINO LALIQUE ● ● GLAS ART GALLERY BÄ OSSWALD ● ● GROSS COUTURE MADAME GROSSE GRÖSSEN ● ROLEX ● ● BALLY P.50 MARINA RINALDI ●
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SCHWEIZER ● HEIMATWERK
AS SE
Pavillon
Global Blue Retailer Restaurant
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Featured In This Issue
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VERTES ● AIRBIJOUX ● A.C. BANG ●
Q AT
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KOCHOPTIK ●
M
SE
WEINBERG ●
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● TROIS POMMES ● GRAFF ● STEFANO RICCI ● TIFFANY & CO ● TROIS POMMES ● DOLCE & GABBANA
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LI
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CHRISTIAN DIOR ●
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SHOP TAX FREE APP
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34 | S W I T Z E R L A N D G U I D E
RU
N’Vy
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LA
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L'HORLOGE FLEURIE
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Le Relais de l'Entrecôte
RCH
LA
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Place de Longemalle
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INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM OF THE REFORMATION
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PATEK PHILIPPE MUSEUM
Place Of Interest
Tourist Information
Restaurant
Bar
Train Station
Hotel
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Place du Molard DU
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RU
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Place de la Fusterie
RATH MUSEUM
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FR A
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38
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PL
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RU
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Manora Restaurant
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Q UA I DE L
AND RU E D U S T
37
Chez Ma Cousine
Place De-Grenus
DI
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PAGE
AN UT
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SA
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RU
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Genève Tourisme & Congrès
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PL
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Café de Paris
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RU
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RU
LA
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RU
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TA M
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GENEVA
S H O P | 35
VICTORINOX Founded as a knife maker more than 130 years ago, Victorinox stands for quality, functionality and innovation. Today its product range extends to travel gear, fragrances and timepieces. Bringing together Switzerland’s watch-making capabilities and the brand’s design reputation, its newest Inox watch has been eagerly anticipated. The first Inox was released in 2014, and the new mechanical version (named, unsurprisingly, Inox Mechanical) appears similar to the quartz original but it features a transparent back case revealing the guilloche dial and internal mechanisms. The signature bezel has extra coating to make it even more resistant and shiny, and the watch is the first of its kind to feature a wooden strap, which is crafted on to leather to ensure durability and strength. Victorinox, 22 rue du Marché, 1204 Geneva, +41 (0)22 318 6340, victorinox.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 36
Rue du Mont-Blanc SWATCH ● HORLOGERIE BIJOUTERIE O.ZBINDEN ● R ● HAROLD W. MARIONNAUD ● U E SWISS CORNER ● D U ESPACE TEMPS ● M O ORANGE ● N T
IV AR
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ON
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IS
-B
AM
ÇO
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FR
AN
RU
● LE MOUTONS A 5 PATTES
ER
● MONTRES SA ● NOUS P.23 ● BUCHERER
TABAC RHEIN ● LA MAISON DE ● L'HORLOGERIE
E
SE
AU
RU
US
DU
RO
CE
E
ND
RU
RI
RU
EC
COUTELLERIE DU JET D'EAU ● PASTORE-NICOLET SA ●
D
RU
OR
PHARMACIA PLAZA ● KRESS OPTIC ●
Manor
RI
PILI CARRERA ● SWISS TIME ● DRAKE STORE (WOMEN) ●
-B
HORLOGERIE CADHOR ● L A CHRIST ● N C CHA NTE P O U LE T THE GIFTBOX ● LA MOUTON A 5 PATTES ●
NA VIN
RUE DE
DRAKE STORE (MEN) ●
BIJOUTERIE KUNZ ●
TL IN EI RD BR IE LLE NA R ● E E E IS ION SS E M I T LY ES CH AD ● U U G LA TR BER ● ES
Q
IN
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Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues
SELECTED STORES IN FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DES BERGUES Jacob & Co P.20
ID UA
BROGUE ● SCABAL ●
Q UA I T U R R
E T TINI
Global Blue Retailer
● SOCIETY LIMONTA
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Featured In This Issue
36 | S W I T Z E R L A N D G U I D E
Rue du Rhône
Rue du Marché ● HOFSTETTER SPORTS
RES
SE
● ICE WATCH
R U E D ' I TA L I E
SELECTED STORES IN GLOBUS La Prairie
RICHARD MILLE ● LORO PIANA ● SAINT LAURENT ● HUBLOT ●
JEWELLERY ● DIOR ● PATEK PHILIPPE ● CHANEL ● BUCHERER
VERSACE ● FRED ● BIJOUX BURMA ● GUCCI ●
RR- M U EA D Î TER LEAS S TO E
P.16
Place du Port
Place de Longemalle
● MONTBLANC ● CÉLINE ● BALLY ● PRADA
● MARCONI
U R- M A Î T R E S S E VILEBREQUIN ● DRAKE STORE ●
R U E D ' I TA L I E
MARINA RINALDI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● LA PERLA ● HOGAN ● KAREN TOD'S ● ● MILLEN AUBADE ● MAX MARA ● ESCADA ● VERMOREL FOURRURES ●
RU E DU R HÔNE
● VERO MODA ● MARIONNAUD ● MINELLI
RU E DU R HÔNE
GGG GILLES GERSON ●
● VISILAB ● YVES ROCHER
CO U R S D E R I V E
DEVERNOIS ● BERDOZ OPTIC ● FNAC ●
● KIKO ● CHEMISERIE CENTRALE
OU
P.22
RUE DU RHÔNE
A ÎT
Place de Longemalle
CO U R S D E R I V E
R- M
● DIESEL
● ACUITIS ● FUST ● SWISSCOM
R. ROBERT-CÉARD
● CARTIER
RUE DU RHÔNE
OU
Place du Port
GÜBELIN ● CHRISTIAN DIOR ● FENDI ● LES AMBASSADEURS ●
RUE DE RIVE
AT
● CYRILLUS ● BELDONA
RUE DU RHÔNE
EL
RUE DE RIVE
ED
● TOMMY HILFIGER ● ESPRIT
RUE DU RHÔNE
R U E D E L A C R O I X- D ' O R
RU
DAVIDOFF ● L’OCCITANE ● APPLE ● IAM ● GUESS ● NAF NAF ● SNIPES ●
R. ROBERT-CÉARD
R U E D E L A C R O I X- D ' O R
Place du Molard
INTERDISCOUNT ●
● LOUIS VUITTON
TRICOSA ●
● LONGCHAMP
● MICHAEL KORS ● MOLARD SOUVENIRS ● TALLY WEIJL ● DOUGLAS ● FIELMANN ● ZARA HOME
● JAHAN BIJOUTERIE ● ADLER ● CHOPARD ● DE GRISOGONO ● GRAFF ● CHATILA ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● OMEGA
Place du Molard
Globus
DOSENBACH ●
● ROGER VIVIER ● TIFFANY & CO
Les Aviateurs
● OCHSNER SPORT
Bongén ie
FRANZ CARL WEBER ●
TOURBILLON ● BLANCPAIN ● LES FACETTES ● BREGUET ● PIAGET ● LEONARD ● HARRY WINSTON ● BOGHOSSIAN ● IWC ● Globus ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● ZARA ●
● BERSHKA
COUTURISSIMO ● SWATCH ● H&M ●
BLUE LEMON ● LACOSTE ●
de la Fusterie
● SWAROVSKI
MASSIMO DUTTI ● HUGO BOSS ● AMARANTE ● NESPRESSO ● REPEAT ●
C&A ●
COOP CITY ● JIMMY CHOO ● Place BULGARI ●
RHÔNE
● COS ● CLARENCE CHRONOMETRIE SA
● ARMENIO ARMANI OFFICINE ● PANERAI
RU E DU
VICTORINOX ● MANGO ● JACK & JONES ● VERO MODA ● BENETTON ● MARIONNAUD ●
RHÔNE
P.35
Place de la Fusterie
RU E DU
RITUALS ●
● BIJOUTERIE KUNZ ● COOP CITY ● PKZ MEN
RU E D E L A C O N F É D É R AT I O N
BODY SHOP ●
● PHARMACIE PRINCIPALE ● GODIVA CHOCOLATIER ● PHARMACIA POPULARIE ● INTIMISSIMI ● FOOT LOCKER ● MARIONNAUD ● KOOKAÏ ● PAYOT
RU E D E L A CO N F É D É R AT I O N
CHEMISERIE CENTRAL ●
AESCHBACH ● ● APOSTROPHE MOUAWAD ● ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● IWC BENOÎT DE GORSKI ● ● L. RAPHAËL CHRISTIAN SIMETO ● ● LOUBOUTIN
● VHERNIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA
● MONCLER LE MOUTONS ● A 5 PATTES ● CHURCH'S ● LE MOUTON A 5 PATTES ● SHOW OFF
BOGGI ● DIVINO AMORE ● LA COUPOLE ●
● HÄSTENS ● TOUZEAU
Global Blue Retailer Bar
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Featured In This Issue
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38 | S W I T Z E R L A N D G U I D E
Rue Robert Céard Place du Molard
RUE DU RHÔNE
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ●
BURBERRY ●
R U E D E L A C R O I X- D ' O R
ZARA HOMME ●
MILANO OUTLET ●
● AVAKIAN
● BABY DIOR PHILIPP ● PLEIN ● DINH VAN ● TAG HEUER
● ZILLI ●CABASSO CASHMERE ● & CASHMERE ● TOMMY HILFIGER
SELECTED STORES IN XXXXXXX R. ROBERT-CÉARD Name in here Name in here, if name falls on 2 lines then include an indent
Place de Longemalle
Place du Port
AESCHBACH CHOCOLATIER
Place de Longemalle
BUCHERER ●
RUE DU RHÔNE
AVAKIAN ●
ISKENDER ● ALAIN AFFLELOU ●
Place du Port
Place de Longemalle
SE
● MONTBLANC ● CÉLINE
TROU UERD -M E LA AÎ TTR OEUSR S-EM A Î TRES
RUE DU RHÔNE
● VERSACE ● REUGE ● VACHERON CONSTANTIN
ZWILLING ● J A HENCKELS
● KIKO
● DAVIDO FF
RUE DE RIVE
LA
YVES DELORME ●
ACUITUS ●
ANNE FONTAINE ● VIA ROMA ●
R U E D E L A C R O I X- D ' O R
DE
R. ROBERT- CÉ ARD
You can’t visit Switzerland without bringing back some chocolate and family-run Aeschbach Chocolatier, dating back to 1972, produces some delectable options. It has three stores across Switzerland and also welcomes customers to Chocoworld, an interactive chocolate centre where you can take a tour, learn the secrets of the chocolatier and make your own chocolate. It provides an educational session that is as tasty as it is fun, and is perfect for families. Aeschbach Chocolatier, ChocoDromo 1, Hochschwerzlen, 6037 Lucerne, +41 (0)41 747 3333, aesbach-chocolatier.ch
CO
Rue de la Tour-Maîtresse
Place du Molard Place de la Fusterie GO
EN
TR
P ORT
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Place du Port
RU E DU R H ÔN E
AT
RUE DU
● PO NT I
TARA JARMON ● CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT● POM D'API ●
CO U R S D E R I V E
Non-Global Blue Retailer
EL
MINELLI ●
Global Blue Retailer
ED
CAFÉ COTON ●
R. ROBERT-CÉAR D
MIZENSIR ●
● GÜBELIN ● ZAZAZOU ● WOLFORD
Place du Molar d
RU
Place de Long emal le BRUSNIKA ●
● BREGUET
●
ORSO COUTELLERIE ●
LE
RUE DU R HÔNE
Globus
ÈF
RUE DE RIVE
●
● OYSHO ● MICHAEL KORS
LONGCHAM P ●
LD
● INDIVIDUELE
RU E DU M A RCHÉ
● BIJOUTERIE CLARENCE
UX
BAC À SABLE ●
IJO
● PIAGET ● LES FACETTES ● EDEN PARK ● JEAN RODIN ZARA ● ● ATELIER NA
RB
FAIRYDUST ●
AI
- M A ÎTRESSE
● HACKETT
● SANDRO/MAJE
R U E D ' I TA L I E
Department Store
● CHARIVARI
S H O P | 39
LUCERNE B ER
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42 P KA
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BE OU
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Place Of Interest
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B A H NH OF ST T H E AT
RA F DU
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PL
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CHAPEL BRIDGE
FRANCISCAN CHURCH
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WATER TOWER
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Tourist Information
Train Station
40 | S W I T Z E R L A N D G U I D E
Kramgasse, Rössligasse, Weggisgasse, Hertensteinstrasse, Grendelstrasse, Kapellgasse & Kapellplatz S ES STE GU O ● L AC ● EC
BO
CO
GA
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SC HL
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SB ER G
● PEROSA
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FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 43 Department Store
ECK E
For everything from cosmetics and skincare to the finest cigars and tobacco, be sure to head to Free Shop. Here you’ll find the newest perfume releases from top luxury brands as well as make-up and beauty from the likes of La Prairie, Kanebo and Shiseido, so you won’t be shy of choice. There’s also a range of watches, leather goods and Swiss chocolate, providing a little something for everyone. Bring home a souvenir for yourself or a loved one from Free Shop. Free Shop, FoxTown Factory Stores, Via Angelo Maspoli 18, 6850 Mendrisio, +41 (0)91 646 0929, freeshopswiss.ch
SEEBRU
FREE SHOP
Non-Global Blue Retailer
●
GG
● WASSERTURM SOUVENIR SHOP
Global Blue Retailer
●
SCHILD ● COMPA NY'S
●
●
RE
RS
R DE
COMME ÇA ● ● CARTIER ● GÜBELIN
Schwanenplatz
Kapellplatz
DEU
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UNTE
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SE GAS
SSA
●
T
HOFSTETTER ● & BERNEY
Grieder
K AP
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S H O P | 41
DAY TRIP FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES
OPENING TIMES Monday-Sunday: 11am-7pm 1 Jan, Easter Sunday, 1 Aug, 25-26 Dec: closed
FoxTown Factory Stores is a haven of luxury and elegance where 160 stores offer the very best international fashion labels. From Armani and Burberry to Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Montblanc, Prada and Valentino, around 240 brands are represented. Situated 230km south of Zürich and only 15km south of Lugano, FoxTown presents an appealing combination of quality and low prices, with boutiques offering garments from previous fashion seasons at discounts of between 30% and 70%. As well as luxury shopping, FoxTown Factory Stores offers seven bars and restaurants, an information point, a Global Blue Refund Office for Tax Free Shopping and even a casino. Enjoy spending a day at this upmarket outlet.
FoxTown Factory Stores, Via Angelo Maspoli 18, 6850 Mendrisio, +41 (0)848 828888, foxtown.com, info@foxtown.com
HOW TO GET THERE
MY PERFECT DAY
ZÜRICH
11am
A4
Visit the information point on Level 1 where multilingual staff will offer assistance and advice. Shopping maps in English, Chinese, Russian and Japanese will help you navigate around the outlet.
By car From Lugano, simply take the A2 motorway, direction Chiasso/Milan, and take the Mendrisio exit.
A3
1pm By bus FoxTown is just one minute’s walk from the Mendrisio Via Morée bus stop. For bus timetables and ticket prices visit postauto.ch.
Stop by one of FoxTown’s many bars and restaurants. Chalet Suisse offers a selection of typical Swiss dishes.
A2 A13
3pm Swarovski is one of the world’s leading producers of beautiful precision-cut crystal; visit its FoxTown store.
A2
By train FoxTown is just two minutes’ walk from Mendrisio San Martino railway station. For train timetables and ticket prices visit ffs.ch. Train Station
5pm A2
LUGANO FoxTown Factory Stores
MENDRISIO SAN MARTINO
Outlet Village
Bus Station
P.40
Prada’s inspiring concept of uncompromised quality and constant innovation has endured since 1913. Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace are also ideal for those looking for luxury accessories.
Featured In This Issue
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
Refund Office Details
2. Claim
Global Exchange, Transit section, Geneva Airport, 1215 Geneva
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts. When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
Global Blue, Airside Center, Transfer A (next to transfer desks), Zürich Airport, 8058 Zürich
TI Change, FoxTown Factory Stores, 6850 Mendrisio Landquart Fashion Outlet, Tourist Information, Tardisstrasse 20A, 7302 Landquart Glisenti Travel, Gallaria Caspar Badrutt, 7500 St Moritz BLS, Reisezentrum Interlaken West, Bahnhofstrasse 28, 3800 Interlaken
Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Lugano Airport, Tourist Office, 6982 Agno Travelex Switzerland, Schwarzwaldallee 200, Badischer Bahnhof, 4058 Basel
Contact
Travelex Switzerland, c/o Marché Bistro, Autobahn A2/A5, 4016 Basel-Weil
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 or +800 32 111 111
Global Blue, Zürichstrasse 38, 8306 Brüttisellen 44 47
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TRANSLATIONS
中文翻译
24: IN GOOD TIME 沉浸好时光 400多年来，瑞 士 一直被认作是 钟表 业 的中心。如今，它仍 继 续生 产着杰出的 时计产品。Ginger Rose Clark将带你 探索 瑞 士的钟表故事 “ 瑞 士 制造”是世界制表界最受尊 敬 的参考值 之 一，这是 一 个由严格 的 标准决定 且受 到严密 保 护的 概 念。瑞 士 钟 表 业 的起源 可以 追溯 到16世 纪，然而它的崛 起 之 路 并不总是 一 帆 风 顺。 日内瓦 的新 教 来临直 接 催 生了 瑞 士 钟 表 业 的诞 生。1541年，新 教 改革 者John Calvin宣 布禁 止 人们 佩 戴 装饰 物，金 匠们 纷 纷 转向制表 业 来 避 免失 业 的 前景。这个 转变 如此成 功，以 至于 一 个 世 纪 之后日内瓦制表 匠们因过于激烈的竞 争而 离开 这个 城 市，转而 移居至 Jura 山区。直到 现 在，不少大 型瑞 士手表品牌 的总部 仍 设在 Jura。 宝 珀（Blancpain）就 是其中之一。这个 现 存 至今历史 最 悠久 的瑞 士 钟 表公司始 创于1735 年，Jehan- Jacques Blancpain在他 坐落于 Villeret 村子 的住 房顶 楼 开设了工作 室，创立了 Blancpain品牌。280多年后，总部设在 Le Brassus的Blancpain仍自豪 地 生 产 着在 瑞 士 设 计 和组 装的手表。 品牌总是 乐于 追 根溯源，向诞 生 地 致以敬 上图: Blancpain“四大美人（Great Beauties）”腕表系列
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意。例 如，Blancpain有一 个以其发源 地Villeret 命名的系列。历史 悠久 度 排名第三 的瑞 士手表 品牌 江诗 丹 顿（Vacheron Constantin，创始 于 Blancpain和 Favre- Leuba之后）则提 供名为Les Cabinotiers的定制服 务。该名字曾被 用来形 容 18世 纪 在日内瓦 的 “cabinets”（意为 制表 工坊） 中工作 的工 匠，这 些工坊往往 坐落于城 市 建 筑 的顶 楼，以便于获 取自然光源。 在18世 纪，先 锋 制表师 Daniel Jeanrichard引 进了一 种名为établissage的分工系统，这个系统 对整 个行业都产生了巨大的影响。Jura 地 区的 农民 在冬 季农闲时节专门制造 特定 的手表零 件，之后由制表师 组 装。这 正是 手表制作产业 化的第一 步，到1790年为止，日内瓦已 经 出口了 6万多只手表。 在19世 纪中后期，来自美国的竞 争和工 业化 进 程 对 瑞 士 钟 表 业构成了威 胁。瑞 士 制表品牌 试图以廉 价 的手表 攻占美国市场，然而无济 于 事。直到瑞 士采 取了生 产 优 质中档手表 的新战 略时，情况 才 得以 好 转。 随 着 Corum等新兴品牌 的出现，20世 纪 迎 来了品牌 数 量 的兴荣。Corum成 立于1955年，总 部 位于以制表 业闻名的La Chaux- de- Fonds小 镇。Corum的公 关 总监Marie- Alexandrine Leibowitch强调了品牌 与其发源 地 的紧密联 系。“Corum是由来自La Chaux- de- Fonds的家 族 所 建 立 的，因此 总部 也一直设在 此 处。品牌 和 该 市镇 的关联尤为紧密，因为 我们 的供 应商大 多都 位于 La Chaux- de- Fonds或 附近。”她补充 道，近邻关系是品牌 不 可或缺 的一 部 分。当 然，La Chaux- de- Fonds 并非 是 唯 一 的制表 热
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门地。Le Brassus 是 另一 个 知名的产业枢 纽， 也是 爱 彼（Audemars Piguet） 和宝 珀 （Blancpain）的所在 地。 石 英 表 的发 展 几 近导 致 瑞 士 制表 业 的消 亡。尽管 石 英 表 于1967发明于 瑞 士，却 被 精工 （Seiko）等日本公司所充分 开发。竞 争和 糟 糕 的汇率重创了专注于机 械 表 的瑞 士 制表 业。从 1970年至1984年，瑞 士 制表 从 业 人 数 从9万人下 降至3万人。瑞 士 制表 业 重 振 旗 鼓 很 大 程 度 上 受惠于 Nicolas Hayek创立 的 Swatch。Hayek 预见 了既 具 时尚美学又价 格实惠的手表 的 市场潜 力。很快，Swatch的 塑料 手表 就 席 卷了世界。 品牌还 意 识 到，生存 的唯 一 途 径 是 精 简、 产品整 合与重 组。面 对石 英 表 的竞 争，机 械手 表品牌开始 转向高端 奢 侈定位，利用其 技 术专 长、精湛 工 艺以 及丰厚 的历史沉 淀 来 吸引顾 客。90年 代 见证了机 械手表 的销售浪潮，也见 证了以Swatch，Richemont 和 LVMH为首的奢 侈 品集团的奢 侈品牌投 资 开端。 最 新 的威 胁来自于电子 手表。然而，回首历 史，显而易见的是 瑞 士 制表 业 总是 知晓 如 何 在 挑 战下重 塑自我。在日内瓦 悠闲地散 散步，就能 了解 瑞 士与手表 的联 系仍旧紧密而活跃。街 道 两侧林立着 瑞 士久负 盛名的高级钟 表 店。显 然，手表界 的 “ 瑞 士 制造”仍固若 金汤。
42: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的购物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在 购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供环 球 蓝联（Global Blue）退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税流 程即 可： 1. 购 物消费 无论 您 在哪里 购物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 好购物票 据。 2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表格和 相关票 据，获 取海 关印章，然 后再到环 globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru
球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方 式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 或 +800 32 111 111 请注 意：您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝 联 的手 续费。如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续 费。
Scan the QR code to subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services. Receive the latest shopping and tax refund information. Track and manage your refund, and get online customer service and other tax refund services.
扫描二维码，订阅环球蓝联官方微信。 接收最新的购物和退税信息。 追踪和管理您的退税，获取在线客服 及其他退税服务。
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 24: IN GOOD TIME В ДОБРЫЙ ЧАС
Уже более 400 лет Швейцария остается мировым центром часовой индустрии. Джинджер Роуз Кларк изучила историю швейцарских часов В часовом деле маркировка «Сделано в Швейцарии» считается самой уважаемой и авторитетной. Настолько, что ее использование охраняется законом и регламентируется строгими правилами. История швейцарских часов началась еще в 16 веке, и путь к современному успеху далеко не всегда был прямым. Отправной точкой стало появление
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в Женеве протестантизма. В 1541 году реформатор церкви Жан Кальвин запретил прихожанам носить украшения, и ювелиры столкнулись с перспективой потерять работу. Тогда они обратились к часовому делу, и это оказалось самым удачным и перспективным решением. Спустя всего век конкуренция среди часовщиков в Женеве была настолько сильной, что мастера начали уезжать из большого города в Юрские горы. И по сей день штаб-квартиры самых крупных швейцарских брендов находятся в этом регионе. Один из них – Blancpain, старейшая из существующих часовых компаний Швейцарии. В 1735 году часовщик Жеан-Жан Бланпэн открыл мастерскую на верхнем этаже собственного дома в городке Виллере. С тех пор прошло более 280 лет, компания переехала в Ле-Брассус и продолжает выпускать часы, которые разрабатываются и собираются в
Швейцарии. Швейцарские бренды почтительны к сформировавшим их корням. Blancpain, например, выпустил коллекцию под названием Villeret в честь своей малой родины. Бренд Vacheron Constantin, третий старейший производитель (после Blancpain и Favre-Leuba), назвал свой индивидуальный сервис Les Cabinotiers. В 18 веке так именовали мастеров, которые работали в женевских cabinets, или часовых ателье. Эти комнаты занимали верхние этажи городских зданий, чтобы в них попадало как можно больше естественного света. В 18 веке один из основоположников часового дела Даниэль Жанришар ввел систему разделения труда établissage, которая преобразила всю индустрию. Зимой у фермеров Юрского региона было намного меньше сельскохозяйственных работ, и в свободное время они брали участие в производстве
Сверху: эксклюзивные часы Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Phoenix
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часовых механизмов. Затем профессиональные мастера собирали хронометры из подготовленных деталей. Это стало первым шагом к индустриализации часового дела и ускорило темпы роста. К 1790 году из Женевы экспортировалось более 60 000 наручных часов. Во второй половине 19 века над швейцарским рынком нависла угроза со стороны американских конкурентов. Производители пытались впечатлить американских покупателей дешевыми вещами, но все было тщетно. И только когда часовщики приняли новую стратегию и стали выпускать более качественные модели по средним ценам, ситуация постепенно выправилась. В 20 веке количество производителей резко выросло, появились новые имена. Например, в 1955 году был основан бренд Corum, штабквартира которого до сих пор находится в городе Ла-Шо-де-Фон. PR-директор МариАлександрин Лейбович подчеркивает тесную связь Corum с родным городом: «Компания была основана семьей из Ла-Шо-де-Фон и всегда базировалась здесь. Мы всецело включены в жизнь города, и многие наши поставщики находятся в Ла-Шо-де-Фон или поблизости». По ее словам, представить себе бренд без этой близости просто невозможно. Разумеется, Ла-Шо-де-Фон далеко не единственная такая точка в Швейцарии. К подобным городам относится Ле-Брассус, где
Сверху: карманные часы Favre-Leuba
работает не только Blancpain, но и Audemars Piguet. Взлет кварцевых часов чуть не привел к упадку швейцарского рынка. Несмотря на то, что они были изобретены в Швейцарии в 1967 году, их присвоили японские компании, такие как Seiko. На фоне конкуренции и низкого курса валюты швейцарские производители сосредоточились на выживании. С 1970 до 1984 год количество сотрудников в этой сфере сократилось с 90 000 до 30 000. Новую точку опоры страна получила благодаря компании Swatch, основанной Николасом Хайеком. Хайек увидел потенциал в более модных часах по доступной цене – и стремительно завоевал мир пластиковыми моделями Swatch. Бренды хорошо понимали: у них есть только один способ выжить – это обновить, объединить и реорганизовать производство. Чтобы отстраниться от кварцевых часов, они занялись роскошным позиционированием и сделали ставку на техническую экспертизу, мастерство и богатое наследие. И клиентам это понравилось: в 1990-е продажи механических часов начали устойчиво расти. И именно в это время крупные объединения, особенно Swatch Group, Richemont и LVMH, решили инвестировать с роскошные бренды. Теперь над традиционной индустрией нависла новая угроза – цифровые технологии. Однако история показывает, что швейцарские
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يف هذا املجال هو تأسيس Nicholas Hayekلعالمة .Swatch رأى Hayekبريق أمل يف ترويج ساعة مجارية أكرث للموضة وبسعر معقول ،وما لبثت أن أرست ساعات Swatchالبالستيكيّة قلوب العامل أجمع. كام أدركت العالمات التجاريّة األخرى أ ّن الطريقة الوحيدة لالستمرار يف هذا املجال هي بالتبسيط وتكامل اإلنتاج وإعادة التنظيم. فاعتمدت العالمات املص ّنعة للساعات امليكانيكيّة نهجاً فاخرا ً تواجه غني فيه الكوارتز وراحت تع ّزز ما لديها من خربة تقنيّة ومهارة وإرث ّ لتجذب الزبائن .فشهدت التسعينات زيادة يف مبيعات الساعات امليكانيكيّة ويف الفرتة عينها تقريباً ،بدأت رشكات كربى راقية عىل سبيل Swatch Groupو Richemontو LVMHباالستثامر يف عالمات فاخرة .أما التهديد األخري لهذا املجال فأىت عىل هيئة ساعات رقميّة .لكن بالنظر إىل تاريخ العالمات السويرسيّة ،يتضّ ح أنّها لطاملا أدركت الحاجة إىل إعادة ابتكار ذاتها يف وجه التحدّيات. مبج ّرد السري يف أرجاء جنيف ،يبان أ ّن الساعات ما زالت حارضة بق ّوة. شوارعها غنيّة مبحالت ألرقى دور الساعات يف البالد .فمن الواضح أ ّن الساعات السويرسيّة الصنع قد وجدت لتبقى.
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE :42
عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل، تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من 300,000متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل. فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق أينام تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة الخاص بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ ّ باإليصاالت. .2أطلب يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض االسرتداد الخاصة بنا. من أحد مكاتب خدمة الزبائن ّ لالتّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com 111 111 232 +421
يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري .يف بعض املطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي.
производители умеют переосмыслять свое дело перед лицом новых вызовов. Классическое часовое мастерство живет и здравствует, и это можно увидеть во время неспешной прогулки по Женеве. Неудивительно, что здесь так много брендов высокого часового искусства. Ведь швейцарские часы – это навсегда.
42: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих ?покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы не совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и не забудьте сохранить ваши чеки. 2. При выезде По пути домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.ru | globalblue.com
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يف األعىل :بناء حركة ساعة Blancpain
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية
IN GOOD TIME :24
يف الوقت املناسب
تُعرف سويرسا مبركز صناعة الساعات منذ ما يزيد عن 400سنة وال تزال ماضية يف تصنيع ساعات رائعة ح ّتى قصة سويرسا اليوم .تستكشف ّ Ginger Rose Clark مع الساعات
يف األعىل :ساعات Keith Haringالعريقة من Swatchمن عام 1986
PHOTO: SWATCH LTD
من املزايا األبرز يف عامل صناعة الساعات سمة “صنع يف سويرسا” .إنّها تسمية محميّة بعناية ،تُحدّدها معايري دقيقة .بدأت صناعة الساعات يف تخل نهضتها من املطبّات. سويرسا يف القرن السادس عش لكن مل ُ أتت صناعة الساعات يف سويرسا كنتيجة مبارشة لوصول الربوتستانتية إىل جنيف .يف العام ،1541حظّر املصلح الربوتستانتي John Calvinارتداء حيل الزينة؛ فخاف صائغو املجوهرات من خسارة أعاملهم وتح ّولوا إىل صناعة الساعات كبديل .كانت نقلة غاية يف األهميّة إذ بعد مرور قرنٍ ،تضايق بعض صانعي الساعات يف جنيف من كرثة املنافسة ورشعوا مبغادرة املدينة متّجهني إىل جبال .Jura وحتّى يومنا هذا ،ما زالت بعض أبرز العالمات التجاريّة يف هذا املجال متّخذة من هذه املنطقة مقرا ً لها .نذكر منها Blancpainوهي أقدم رشكة سويرسيّة لصناعة الساعات ما زالت موجودة حتى اليومّ .أسسها Jehan-Jacques Blancpainسنة 1735يف الطابق العلوي من منزله يف قرية .Villeretاليوم بعد مرور 280سنة ،بات مق ّر بكل فخر ساعات مص ّممة ومج ّمعة العالمة يف Le Brassusوتصنع ّ يف سويرسا. تتميّز هذه العالمات بعرفان الجميل وتسليطها الضوء عىل البدايات التي صنعت ما هي عليه اليوم .لدى Blancpainعىل سبيل املثال ،مجموعة بعنوان Villeretوهو مكان نشأتها .أ ّما ،Vacheron Constantinثالث أقدم عالمة سويرسيّة لصناعة الساعات (بعد Blancpainو )Favre-Leubaفتقدّم خدمة التصميم بحسب الطلب Les Cabinotiersوهو اإلسم الذي أعزي يف القرن الثامن عش للحرفيّني العاملني لحساب حكومة جنيف أو يف مشاغل صناعة الساعات املوجودة يف الطوابق العلويّة من املباين لالستفادة من النور الطبيعي. يف القرن الثامن عش ،قام صانع الساعات املبتكر Daniel Jeanrichardبوضع خطّة لتقسيم العمل ُعرفت بـ établissage أي “التجميع” ،وأث ّرت عىل هذه الصناعة بشكلٍ كبري .نتيج ًة لذلك ،بات مزارعو منطقة Juraالذين ليس لديهم أعامل زراعيّة كثرية يف خالل متخصصني بصناعة أجزاء معيّنة من الساعة ،يقوم صانعو أ”هر الشتاءّ ، الساعات بتجميعها يف ما بعد .فكانت هذه املبادرة خطو ًة أوىل يف تطوير هذه الصناعة وبحلول سنة ،1790كانت جنيف تصدّر ما يزيد عن 60ألف ساعة. يف الف“ة املمتدّة بني منتصف ونهاية القرن التاسع عش” ،كّلت املنافسة األمريكيّة وتط ّورها الصناعي تهديدا ً ملجال صناعة الساعات يف سويرسا .حاول صانعو الساعات السويرسيّون إغراق السوق األمريك بساعات غري باهظة ،لكن من دون جدوى .ومل تتمكّن العالمات السويرسيّة من تسوية وضعها إال بعد اعتامد اس“اتيجيّة جديدة تقيض
بابتكار ساعات بأسعار معقولة وجودة أفضل. يف القرن العشين ،ارتفع عدد العالمات التجاريّة بقدوم أسامء تأسست هذه العالمة سنة 1955 جديدة عىل سبيل ّ .Corum ومق ّرها بلدة Chaux-de-Fondsالشهرية بصناعة الساعات .تشدّد ،Marie-Alexandrine Leibowitchمديرة العالقات العا ّمة لدى Corumعىل صلة العالمة مبنشأها .أسستها أرسة من La Chaux-de-Fondsولطاملا كان مق ّرها هناك .لذا تربطها عالقة متينة مع املدينة ويتواجد معظم مو ّرديها يف Chaux-de-Fonds أو بجوارها ”.تضيف أ ّن هذة املتاخمة جزء ال يتج ّزأ من العالمة. بالطبع ليست La Chaux-de-Fondsاملرتع الوحيد لصناعة الساعات .مث ّة أيضاً بلدة Le Brassusاملعروفة يف هذا املجال وفيها Audemars Piguetو.Blancpain كاد لتطوير ساعات الكوارتز أن يؤدّي إىل زوال صناعة الساعات السويرسيّة .فبالرغم من ابتكارها يف سويرسا سنة ،1967استملكتها ظل هذه املنافسة وسعر الرصف رشكات يابانيّة عىل غرار .Seikoيف ّ السيّئ ،واجه قطاع صناعة الساعات امليكانيكيّة يف سويرسا الصعوبات. بني العامني 1970و ،1984انخفضت اليد العاملة من حوايل 90 ألف إىل 30ألف .ميكن القول إ ّن جزءا من اس“جاع سويرسا ملوقعها
SOUVENIR
Bally looks to the past for the spring/summer 2019 season and has reintroduced Kuba trainers. The shoes were originally created in 1990 and named the Champion, having been inspired by tennis star Jakob Hlasek, nicknamed Kuba. The trainers were made with advanced technology and endorsed by Kuba and fellow champion Marc Rosset. This white, mint green and cherry trainer is an Save money by shopping tax free, see page 42
exact replica of the original style. There are four other colourways available along with new Competition trainers and leather bags that complement the original design. fm Bally Kuba trainers, CHF 420, Bally, Bahnhofstrasse 20, 8001 ZĂźrich, +41 (0)44 224 3939, bally.ch FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 32
PHOTO: BALLY
CHAMPION INSPIRATION
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
E N GL I S H | Р У С С КИ Й | 中文
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