VIENNA | 维也纳 | ВЕНА | فيينا
VIENNA Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18
DISCOVER VIENNA: the city’s historic café culture sits alongside luxury boutiques and world-class shopping
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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this cultured, vibrant European capital. Vienna has much to offer, as our guide on page 39 reveals. Discover the longstanding influence of modernism, developed in the city at the turn of the 20th century, in our feature on page 26 – in this issue we also reveal the top restaurants and the boutiques you won’t want to miss. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Vienna. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online. globalblue.com
Julia Spaeth German-born Julia Spaeth, SHOP’s production assistant, studied media communications at Regent’s University London. She aims to pursue a career in the media industry and loves films, travel and discovering London’s hidden gems.
Ginger Rose Clark Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. She previously worked as a stylist and has written for a number of publications on style, travel and luxury.
ILLUSTRATION: MUTI - FOLIO ART; PHOTO: (CENTRE) TRAN CHAU TU
Muti Muti creative studio’s elegantly styled cover for this season’s edition of SHOP Vienna showcases the city’s historic café culture. This longstanding tradition of pausing for coffee and cake is the perfect diversion while exploring Vienna’s rich variety of boutiques, galleries and museums. Muti’s other clients include Stylist, British Airways and Google. Discover SHOP Vienna and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Muti - Folio Art Production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
G L O B A L B L U E AU S T R I A Head of commercial Austria Jiří Macas Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Junior marketing specialist Gurbir Kang Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Sales manager Martin Tille Global Blue Austria, Rivergate, Handelskai 92, 1200 Vienna, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com
Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue
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CONTENTS PAGE
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PRODUCTS
FEATURE
GUIDE
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39
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Vienna this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
Masters Of Modernism The turn of the 20th century was a significant tipping point in Austria’s cultural development. Its creative influence is still being felt today, as Sally McIlhone finds out
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Vienna
ESSENTIALS 43
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
NEWS
EXPERIENCE
TRANSLATIONS
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44 中文翻译 45 Русский Перевод 48
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Shop Window One store not to be missed in Vienna News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Table Talk Austria’s varied gastronomy makes Vienna an ideal destination for a Michelin-starred meal, says Ginger Rose Clark
SOUVENIR 50
The essential item to bring home
Above (from left): Montblanc’s boutique on the prestigious Graben shopping street reflects the brand’s new global design concept; Café Central, historic haunt of the fathers of modernism
PHOTO: (RIGHT) © CAFÉ CENTRAL, WIEN/MICHAEL RZEPA
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CH ECK OUT
CONTEMPORARY TOUCH Fine jewellery with elegance and flair is the signature of Viennese label Schullin. This 18-carat rose gold ring set with tourmalines is a perfect example of Schullin’s creations. The aqua blue makes a bright contrast with the rose gold base, and would
look great paired with a cocktail dress in black, or with an all-white ensemble. Herbert Schullin, a goldsmith with a keen interest in gems, founded this family-run business in 1975, and each handcrafted design has a dynamically contemporary touch. Founder Herbert Schullin is committed to encouraging Austrian
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
design and works with young graduates from Vienna’s university of applied arts to create one-of-a-kind pieces. fm Schullin Nampula ring, price on request, Schullin, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 9007, schullin.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 42
Seitzergasse 3 - Vienna
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ROSE TINTED Mix and match textures in hues from bubblegum to baby pink for a fun day-to-night look
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1. Moncler coat, €900, Moncler, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0619, moncler.com
3. Origins Original Skin Retexturizing Mask With Rose Clay, 100ml, €27.99, Douglas, Kärtner Strasse 17, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 4241, origins.com
2. Givenchy Live Irrésistible Eau de Parfum Délicieuse, 75ml, €102.95, Marionnaud, Graben 7/Seilergasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 9692, givenchybeauty.com
4. Dior lipstick, €36.95, Douglas, Graben 29, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 0978, dior.com
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
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5. Cutler and Gross sunglasses, €395, Optiker Längle, Neubaugasse 21, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 523 3149, cutlerandgross.com
PHOTOS: (4) DAHINDEN; (10) © BALLY
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6. Rivelles Eclectic Hand Balm, 50g, €16, Stattgarten, Kettenbrückengasse 14, 1050 Vienna, +43 (0)1 236 3593, rivelles.com
8. Versace watch, €928, Versace, Trattnerhof 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 2531, versace.com
7. Miu Miu bag, €1,600, and strap, €550, Miu Miu, Tuchlauben 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3053, miumiu.com
9. Cos skirt, €99, Cos, Bauernmarkt 2A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0538, cosstores.com
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10. Bally Lottie shoes, €495, Bally, Graben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 0550, bally.com
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SHOP WINDOW
TAKE NOTE Montblanc’s Vienna store has been updated to bring it into line with the company’s new boutique concept, which has been rolled out across the brand’s stores worldwide. The new design is based on the founding pillars that define the
Montblanc house; references to cursive writing, the Montblanc mountain emblem and craftsmanship can be found throughout the store. The makeover is a perfect excuse to visit the Vienna boutique, to be charmed by the Montblanc
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
world’s writing instruments, watches, jewellery and leather goods. grc Montblanc, Graben 15, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3330, montblanc.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 42
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ON THE CREST OF A WAVE Since its establishment in 1975, Paul & Shark has become synonymous with luxury sportswear inspired by sailing. Made in Italy using innovative technologies, the brand’s sporty and smart casual products combine high-performance fabrics and Italian style. Vienna is home to two Paul & Shark standalone boutiques. The Graben store (pictured) stocks
menswear and the Cadet line, designed for children aged four to 14. Women should head to the store on Naglergasse to shop the brand’s latest styles. grc Paul & Shark, Graben 11, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 5129; Naglergasse 17, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 3152, paulshark.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 42
With three locations across Vienna, Sir Anthony can be counted on for quality menswear paired with stellar service. From formal attire to more relaxed dressing, this Viennese gentleman’s outfitter offers clothing for every occasion. As well as stocking all sizes, Sir Anthony prides itself on its exclusive selection of some of the best internationally renowned brands for men, including Brioni, Canali, Loro Piana and Stefano Ricci (pictured). Knowledgeable staff are always on hand to help, while an in-house tailor provides adjustment services for the perfect fit. grc Sir Anthony – Men’s Best Address, Kärntner Strasse 21-23, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 683531, sir-anthony.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 42
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 43
PHOTO: (TOP) WOLFGANG R. FÜRST/WRFUERST.COM
GENTLEMAN’S CHOICE
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CASE HISTORY With more than 100 years of experience creating luggage, Samsonite knows just what it takes to make suitcases of the highest quality. Made in Europe, the cases from the Cosmolite collection feature a rib design that provides strength and protection. Available in various shades, including copper blush, midnight blue and pearl, as well as different sizes, there’s a Cosmolite for every type of traveller.
Constructed using Samsonite’s Curv technology, the Cosmolite collection is both sturdy and extremely light, making it easier to take more gifts and souvenirs home. grc Samsonite, Neuer Markt 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 1144, samsonite.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 42
PLEIN TO SEE
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ANDREAS TISCHLER
German luxury fashion label Philipp Plein recently opened a new store in the heart of Vienna. Located on Goldschmiedgasse, the shop stocks the entire range of Philipp Plein collections for women, men and children, and also has a Plein Sport section for luxury activewear. Spread across 300 square metres and three floors, the store is designed in a style that reflects the luxurious image of the brand – stainless steel, black and white marble, and black asphalt are complemented by chandeliers made of Murano glass. The brand’s signature skull at the store entrance is encrusted with Swarovski crystals. js Philipp Plein, Goldschmiedgasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 7310, philipp-plein.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 42
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PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © CAFÉ CENTRAL, WIEN/MICHAEL RZEPA
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Masters of
MODERNISM The turn of the 20th century was a significant tipping point in Austria’s cultural development. Its creative influence is still being felt today, as Sally McIlhone finds out
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lthough it ended more than a hundred years ago, the impact of the Viennese modernist era of 1890-1910 is still visible in the Austrian capital today, whether in a café that continues to keep the stories of its former clientele alive, or the high-fashion creations of Andreas Kronthaler, one of the city’s most celebrated designers. ‘It’s an homage to my home country,’ says Kronthaler of his autumn/winter 2017/18 collection for Vivienne Westwood. Sparked by a chance rediscovery of the Gustav Klimt prints he loved in his youth, Kronthaler became inspired by the beautiful art and culture of Vienna at the turn of the 20th century. Influenced by Klimt’s bold colours and shapes, the collection has touches of gold, but Kronthaler also took inspiration from children’s clothing made by the Wiener Werkstätte (Viennese workshops), a community of artists in Vienna in the early 1900s. Incorporating
Above (from left): Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18; Café Central, once a haunt of leading modernists
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alpine prints and a reimagined dirndl, the whole collection, explains the designer, is ‘a tribute’ to the work of the Werkstätte. ‘History interests me because it throws light on the now,’ says Kronthaler. In Vienna, where traditional and modernist buildings stand beside each other on the street, this certainly rings true. Many believe architect Otto Wagner – like Klimt, a prominent member of the Vienna Seccession modernist movement – to be the father of the Viennese Modern Age. In Moderne Architektur, his book published in 1895, Wagner declared an end to the era of historic architecture seen in the neo-baroque, neo-Roman and neo-Greek buildings that line Vienna’s grand Ringstrasse boulevard. Instead, he called on architects to embrace the technological advances of the day and to use cutting-edge materials such as steel and iron.
Visit the Looshaus to experience modernist architecture The result of Wagner’s bold proclamation can be seen in the work of Adolf Loos, an architect famed for designing some of the most iconic structures of the era. Rejecting the decorative elements of historic style, his work favoured a more structured, minimalist approach, as seen in the Looshaus. Built in 1909 to 1911, the Looshaus is now occupied by Raiffeisenlandesbank. According to Dr Reinhard Pühringer, culture officer at the bank, ‘it remains Adolf Loos’s chief work, his first, most significant and largest finished urban structure.’ After the Looshaus was completed, Pühringer says ‘the unadorned “naked” facade sent a shockwave through Viennese society. It was one of the most criticised and despised buildings at the time.’ Yet as the years passed, Viennese locals began to see that the building, nicknamed the house with no eyebrows because of its rectilinear window patterns and lack of stucco Above (clockwise from left): two catwalk looks from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18; two views of the Looshaus, designed by Adolf Loos
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decoration and awnings, was simply ahead of its time. Gradually, architects rejected the affectations and frivolities of previous decades and the Looshaus went on to become, as Pühringer explains, ‘one of the most important architectural monuments of the 20th century, not only in Austria, but in the whole world.’ The Looshaus came under monument preservation in 1947, with Raiffeisenlandesbank renovating the building so that future generations can appreciate its beauty – this historic site welcomes visitors. Café Central is another must-visit on any Viennese modernism tour. Anna Karnel, director of sales and marketing for the café, explains it was ‘the home or living room’ of poets, writers and philosophers at the turn of the 20th century. ‘Sigmund Freud, Arthur Schnitzler, Alfred Polgar, Leon Trotsky, Robert Musil, Stefan Zweig, Hugo von Hofmannsthal and many other famous faces met to exchange globalblue.com
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ideas while enjoying the coffeehouse specialties,’ she says. Located since 1876 inside the Palais Ferstel, a mansion house in the Venetian and Florentine Trecento style, Café Central continues to charm visitors to this day. ‘Once a year we open our stage for young literates and keep on working on building up our history,’ says Karnel. Still offering a wide range of newspapers, high-quality service, food and beverages, Café Central remains, says Karnel, ‘the place to be in Vienna to experience real traditional coffeehouse culture’ today as much as in 1900. Vienna’s modernist influence can also be seen in the contemporary collections of Austrian brands and designers. At fine jewellery house Frey Wille, Gustav Klimt provides a longstanding source of inspiration. ‘No other artist is more linked to art nouveau than Gustav Klimt,’ says Dr Friedrich Wille, president and CEO of Frey Wille. ‘His extraordinary portraits of women document Above (clockwise from top left): cakes served at Café Central; Café Central circa 1900; two pieces from the Frey Wille Ultimate Kiss collection, inspired by Gustav Klimt; Café Central today; the café’s inviting interior
PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) © CAFÉ CENTRAL, WIEN/HERBERT LEHMANN; (BOTTOM) © CAFÉ CENTRAL, WIEN/CHRISTIAN-HUSAR.COM
Café Central continues to charm visitors to this day
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Austrian brands and designers still draw on modernism
PHOTO: (BOTTOM LEFT) © SINUSWAVE|ARTWORX/ARTHUR BAUERNFEIND
the artistic and scientific discoveries and developments that shaped Europe around 1900.’ Klimt’s distinctive style is translated onto the brand’s signature fire-enamelled jewellery. His most acclaimed paintings, which include The Kiss and Hope II, are referenced in luxurious and colourful bracelets, necklaces and watches. ‘Lush images, wonderful colours and golden vibrant patterns – with all of this, our artists did not have difficulty finding inspiration for their Hommage à Gustav Klimt designs,’ says Wille. The Vienna modernist movement had ‘an enormous impact on art, philosophy, literature, architecture, design and lifestyle in European societies of the time,’ continues Wille. ‘The influence of its great ideas and works is still noticeable today. Keep your eyes open as you explore this city and you can’t fail to see evidence of it.’ globalblue.com
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TABLE TALK Austria’s varied gastronomy makes Vienna an ideal destination for a Michelin-starred meal. Ginger Rose Clark samples some of the city’s leading restaurants
Like its history, Austria’s gastronomy has been shaped by its location at the centre of Europe. Heavily influenced by other cuisines over time, including French, Hungarian and Turkish, it brings together the best of various culinary cultures. In addition, each region of Austria prides itself on its own specialities, with local ingredients shaping food and beverages. This rich and versatile heritage is nowhere more prominent than in Austria’s capital, where the country’s leading chefs cleverly incorporate international and regional influences to create unique dishes. Among Vienna’s best, these five restaurants have garnered one or several Michelin stars, as well as prestigious Gault Millau toques. globalblue.com
PHOTO: RESTAURANT STEIRERECK GMBH
STEIRERECK Located in the picturesque heart of Vienna’s Stadtpark, Steirereck serves lunch as well as à la carte and tasting menus in the evening. Expect modern Austrian cooking with a strong focus on high-quality local produce, including alpine beef and Vorarlberger Bergkäse, a mountain cheese from the west of the country. Herbs, including amaranth and alpine sorrel from the Steirereck garden, and citrus fruits from the orangery at the Schönbrunn palace, are among the standout ingredients used in the elegant dishes created by owner and head chef Heinz Reitbauer. Steirereck, Heumarkt 2A, 1030 Vienna, +43 (0)1 713 3168, steirereck.at
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OPUS
presented dishes. Playful and innovative menus mean that Opus’s Michelin star and three Gault Millau toques are well deserved.
L E C I E L B Y T O N I M O R WA L D Located on the seventh floor of the Grand Hotel Wien, the aptly named Le Ciel by Toni Mörwald offers commanding rooftop views over the city – ciel is the French word for sky. This impressive setting recently received a makeover, and the attention to detail is of the highest level – even the porcelain and cutlery globalblue.com
Opus, Hotel Imperial, Kärntner Ring 16, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5011 0389, restaurant-opus.at
are exclusive to the restaurant. Dishes cleverly infuse classic French cuisine with Austrian twists, and for something slightly different, look out for the seasonal surprise menu. Le Ciel by Toni Mörwald, Grand Hotel Wien, Kärntner Ring 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5158 09100, leciel.at
PHOTOS: (TOP) © LUKAS KIRCHGASSER FOTOGRAFIE; (BOTTOM) NICHOLAS YARSLEY
Located in Hotel Imperial, one of Vienna’s finest historic buildings, Opus is a stunning sight, with woodpanelled walls and restored furniture. Sustainable and locally sourced ingredients are the starting point for head chef Stefan Speiser’s dishes. Using ingredients such as wild trout, pigeon and Austrian lamb, he serves up a light and modern take on Austrian cuisine in beautifully
Shopping City Süd (1. OG) Galerie 88 SCS-Strasse 1 2334 Vösendorf
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S I LV I O N I C K O L AT PA L A I S C O B U R G
food. The restaurant prides itself on having one of the largest collections in Europe, with six cellars holding more than 60,000 bottles.
R E S TA U R A N T K O N S TA N T I N FILIPPOU After founding his eponymous restaurant in 2013, Konstantin Filippou won the title of Gault Millau Chef of the Year 2016 in Austria, followed by one Michelin star in 2017. Grazborn with a Greek father, Filippou fuses the best of Austrian and Mediterranean cuisine. His no-fuss, down-to-earth food allows the individual ingredients to sing, whether in the globalblue.com
Silvio Nickol, Palais Coburg Residenz, Coburgbastei 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5181 8130, palais-coburg.com
two- or three-course business lunches, the six-course lunch, or the four- or six-course dinner menus with options of an additional cheese plate and wine pairings. From the sleek dining room, which seats 35, guests can watch the culinary accomplishments being carried out in the open kitchen. Those who want to get even closer to the action can choose the kitchen table, which seats two. Restaurant Konstantin Filippou, Dominikanerbastei 17, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 2229, konstantinfilippou.com
PHOTOS: (TOP) FELICITAS MATERN/MEDIZINISCHE UNIVERSITÄT WIEN; (BOTTOM) © GERHARD WASSERBAUER
At Palais Coburg, Silvio Nickol creates elegant, contemporary dishes. From five courses at €148 (€233 with wine pairings) to nine courses at €188 (€299 with wine), guests are guaranteed a twostarred culinary adventure of exceptional standards. King crab comes with salsify, watercress and Jerusalem artichokes, while caviar is cleverly matched with beet, tarragon and sheep’s cheese. An award-winning wine menu accompanies the exquisite
HOME DELIVERY
CLICK & COLLECT
Shopping City Süd (1. OG) Galerie 88 SCS-Strasse 1 2334 Vösendorf
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GUIDE
PHOTO: SUPERSCHEELI CC BY-SA 2.0
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Vienna with helpful maps of the main shopping areas, which show key visitor attractions as well as where to find the city’s must-visit boutiques. For further helpful hints from our well-travelled team and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/vienna.
Above: the Gloriette in the Schönbrunn Palace gardens
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Vivienne Westwood Andreas S S E Kronthaler’s TR A S D E R latest collection for his NFEL partner’s label was inspired by the masters of modernism. Vivienne Westwood, Tuchlauben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0904, viviennewestwood.com
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Montblanc Find a new timepiece or an upmarket writing instrument at Montblanc. SE Montblanc, SGAS JOSEF Graben 15, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532E 3330, S GAS TSON montblanc.com T R AU
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FELD ER ST Schullin R A SS E Invest in a stunning piece from this elite Viennese jeweller. Schullin, SCH MID G A S SE Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 9007, schullin.com
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Le Ciel by SE SToni GGA BUR Mörwald The surprise menu at this sumptuously designed restaurant is a must for foodies with a sense of fun. Le Ciel by Toni Mörwald, Grand Hotel Wien, Kärntner Ring 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5158 09100, leciel.at
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K ÄRN
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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译
路 斯 楼 于 1909年 至 1911年 间 建 成 ，现 为 上 奥 地 利 州 银 行（ Raiffeisenlandesbank）所 在 地 。据 该 银
26: Masters Of Modernism
行 的 文化 官员 Reinhard Pühringer 博 士 称：“ 这 栋 楼
现代主义大师
一直 是 路 斯 的 代 表 作 品，是 他 设 计 的 第 一 幢 ，也 是 最 重 要 、规 模 最 大 的 城 市 建 筑 。” 路 斯 楼 建 成 之
在 奥 地 利 文化 的 发 展 过 程 中，19世 纪 与 20世 纪 之 交
后，Pühringer表 示：“ 那 未 加 装 饰 的 ‘全 裸 ’外 墙 在 维
乃 是 一 个重 大 的 转 折点。那 个 时 期 的 创 意 影 响 力 至
也 纳 社 会 掀 起了 轩 然 大 波。这 是 当 时 最 受 人诟 病 、最
今 仍 能 感 受 得 到，Sally McIlhone 带 您 一 探 究 竟
为人 鄙 夷 的 建 筑 之一。”
1890年 至 1910年，维 也 纳 迎 来了 现 代 主 义 时 期 。虽
楼 的 设 计只 不 过 是 走 在了 时 代 的 前 列 。它 被 昵 称 为 “
然 那 个 年 代 距 今 已 有一 百多 年，但 其 影 响 力 依 然 在
无 眉 之 楼 ”，因 为 窗 户 的 形 状 笔 直 方正，外 墙 又 缺 少
今日的 奥 地 利 首 都 清 晰 可见 — — 某 咖 啡 馆 里 还 流 传
粉 饰 和 雨 棚 。数 十 年 来，矫 揉 造 作 、无 病 呻 吟 的 风 格
着 往 昔 宾 客 的 传 说，维 也 纳 最 著 名 的 设 计 师 之一
渐 渐 不 再 受 到 建 筑 师 的 青 睐，而 路 斯 楼 也 成 为了
Andreas Kronthaler也 依 然 在 高 端 时 尚 界 创 作 不
Pühringer所 说 的 “ 20世 纪 最 重 要 的 建 筑 丰 碑 之
然 而多 年 过 去，维 也 纳 当 地 人 却 开 始 发 现 ，路 斯
息。 “ 这 是 在 向 我 的 祖 国 致 敬 。” Kronthaler如 此 评 价自己为 Vivienne Westwood设 计 的 2017/ 18秋冬 系 列 。由 于 一 次 偶 然 的 机 会，他 再 次 邂 逅了自己 年 轻 时 喜 爱 的 Gustav Klimt的 画 作，于 是 被 维 也 纳 20世 纪 之 交 瑰 丽 的 艺 术 与 文化 图 景 激 起了灵 感 。
Klimt画 作 色 彩 鲜 明 、构 型 大 胆 ，Kronthaler深 受 影 响，因 而 这个系 列 也 金 光 闪 烁 。此 外，Kronthaler还 从 Wiener Werkstätte（ 意 为：维 也 纳 工作 室 ，是 20世 纪 早 期 维 也 纳 艺 术 家 汇 聚 的 社 区 组 织 ）制 作 的 儿 童 服 饰 中 汲 取了灵 感 。这 位 设 计 师 解 释 说，整 个系 列 融 合了 阿尔 卑 斯 山印 花 和 缩 腰 紧 身 裙 元 素，是 送 给 维 也 纳 工作 室 的 “ 一 份 礼 物 ”。 “ 我 之 所 以 对 历史 感 兴 趣，是 因 为 它 能 够 照 亮 现 在 。” Kronthaler如 是 说 道 。在 维 也 纳 的 街 道 上 ，传 统 与 现 代 主 义 建 筑 比 肩 而 立 ，Kronthaler此言显 然 不 假。 与 Klimt一 样，建 筑 师 瓦 格 纳（ Otto Wagner） 也 是 维 也 纳 现 代 派 分离 运 动 的 重 要 成 员，并 被 很 多 人 视 作 维 也 纳 现 代 时 期 之 父 。他 在 1895年 出 版 的《 现 代 建 筑 》（ Moderne Architektur）一 书 中 提 出， 历史 建 筑 时 代 已 经 终 结 。在 宏 伟 的 环 城 林 荫 大 道 上 ，新 巴 洛克、新 罗马 、新 希 腊 派 建 筑 依 然 鳞 次 栉 比，彰 显 着历史 建 筑 的 荣 光 。但 是 瓦 格 纳 却 呼 吁 建 筑 师 们 拥 抱 当 时 的 先 进 技 术，使 用 钢 铁 等 前 沿 建 材。 瓦 格 纳 大 胆 宣 言 的 影 响 力，从 路 斯（ Adolf Loos）的 作 品 中 便 可见 得 。这 位 建 筑 师 设 计 出了 那 个 年 代 最 具 标 志 性 的 一 些 建 筑 结 构，因 此 闻 名 遐 迩 。他 拒 绝 使 用 带 有 历史 风 格 的 装 饰 元 素，而 是 青 睐 结 构 化 的 极 简 主 义手 法，创 造 出了 路 斯 楼 （ Looshaus）这 样 的 作 品 。 globalblue.cn
45
一 — — 不只 是 在 奥 地 利，更 是 就 全 球 而 言。” 地 利 州 银 行 将 其 整 饬 一 新，供 后 来 者 欣 赏 其 绰 约 风
Blue）的购 物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的 行列？您只需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联 ( Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问 询商家是 否 提 供环 球 蓝 联 ( Global Blue）退 税
姿。如 今，这 栋 楼 依 然 对 游 客 开 放。
服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税流 程即 可：
1947年，路 斯 楼 作 为历史 遗 迹 得 到 了修 缮 。上 奥
游 览 维 也 纳 现 代 主 义 建 筑 时，中 央 咖 啡 馆 （ Café Central）是 另 一 处 必 访 之 地 。该 店 的 销 售 及
1 . 购 物 消费
营 销 总 监 Anna Karnel解 释，这 里 是 20世 纪 之 交 维
无 论 您 在 哪里 购 物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表格
也 纳 诗人、作 家 和 哲 学 家 的 “ 家 或 客 厅 ”。“ Sigmund
( Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 票 据。
Freud、Arthur Schnitzler、Alfred Polgar、Leon Trotsky、Robert Musil、Stefan Zweig 和 Hugo von Hofmannsthal等 名 家 都 会 来 到 这 里 ，一 边 品 饮 咖
2 . 申领 退 税
啡 ，一 边 交 流 思 想 。” 她 说 。
相关 票 据，获 取海 关印章，然 后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税
中 央 咖 啡 馆自 1876年 便 坐 落 在 菲 尔 斯 特 宫
在 您 返 程离境前，请 前 往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表格和 点领 取 退 税 款。
（ Palais Ferstel）内 部，这 一 幢 采 用 十 四 世 纪 威 尼 斯 及 佛 罗 伦 萨风 格 的 宅 邸 。“ 我 们 每 年 都 会 向 年 轻 的 文
联 系方 式：
人 墨 客 开 放 一 次，并且不 断 积 累自己 的 历史。” 色 的 报 纸 ，享 受 高品 质 的 服 务，品 尝 丰 盛 的 美 食 佳
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最 低消费 75.01欧 元 即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省高达 15 %
Karnel说 道 。置 身 此 地 ，顾 客 依 然 可 以 读 到 形 形 色 饮。“ 不论 是 在 20世 纪 还 是 在 如 今，要 感 受 真 正 的 传
的商品购买 价。请注 意：您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减
统 维 也 纳 咖 啡 馆 文化，中 央 咖 啡 馆 都 是 必 去 之
去环 球 蓝 联 的手 续 费。如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，
地 。” Karnel说 道 。
部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表 为单位收取 现 金 退 税手
从 奥 地 利 品 牌 及 设 计 师 的 现 代 系 列 作 品 中，亦 可
续 费。
见 维 也 纳 现 代 主 义 的 影 响 力。高 档 珠 宝 品 牌 Frey
Wille便 长 期 将 Gustav Klimt 视 为 灵 感 来 源 。 “ 没有 哪 位 艺 术 家 比 Gustav Klimt与 新 艺 术 运 动 更 有 渊 源 了。” Frey Wille的 总 裁 兼 首 席 执 行 官 Friedrich Wille博 士 说，“他 创 作 的 女 性肖 像 画 精 彩
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: Masters Of Modernism Мастера Модернизма
非凡，记 录了 艺 术 和 科 学 领 域 的 发 现 及 发 展 — — 1900年 前 后 的 欧 洲 正 是 由 它们 塑 造 的 。” Klimt的 独 特 风 格 在 该 品 牌 转 化 成了 标 志 性 的 火 漆 珠 宝。他 最 为人 称 道 的 画 作，包 括《 The Kiss》
Салли Макилхоун рассказывает, как венский модерн начала 20 века влияет на творческую среду Австрии сегодня
（吻）和《 Hope II》（希 望 二），都 被 借 鉴 到 奢 华 缤 纷 的 手 镯 、项 链 和 手 表 之中。“ 繁 华 的 景 象、绚 丽 的 色 彩 、金 碧 辉 煌 的 图 案 — — 凭 借 这 一 切，我 们 的 艺 术 家 就 能 轻 松 地 找 到 灵 感，以优 秀 的 设 计 向已 故 的
Gustav Klimt 致 敬 。” Wille说 道 。 维 也 纳 现代 主义 运 动 “ 对当时 欧 洲 社会 的 艺 术、 哲 学 、文 学 、建 筑 、设 计 和 生 活 方 式 都 有 着 巨 大 冲 击。” Wille继 续 说 道，“ 那 些 伟 大 理 念 和 作 品 的 影 响 力 至 今 依 然 明 显 。只 要 睁 大 双 眼，你 就 能 在 探 索 这 座 城 市 的 时 候 找 到 俯 拾 皆 是 的 明 证 。”
43: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全 球，尊 享退 税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多万家商店消费时，环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服 务 ( Global Blue Tax Free
Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用 环 球 蓝 联 ( Global
С момента взлета венского модернизма 1890-1910 годов прошло уже более ста лет. Но его влияние не ослабевает, будь то кофейня, сохранившая память об ее прежних посетителях, или высокая мода Андреаса Кронталера, одного из самых известных дизайнеров Вены. Кронталер называет свою коллекцию осень-зима 2017-18 для Vivienne Westwood «выражением почтения своей родине». Он обратился к произведениям Густава Климта, которые любил в юности, – и погрузился в прекрасную живопись и культуру Вены начала 20 века в целом. Под влиянием палитры и силуэтов, характерных для живописи Климта, дизайнер придал коллекции золотой оттенок. Но еще одним источником вдохновения для него стала детская одежда, созданная
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объединением художников начала 1900-х Wiener Werkstätte (Венские мастерские). Добавим к этому принты с альпийскими пейзажами и элементы дирндля. В итоге коллекция, как объясняет Кронталер, «воздает должное» наследию венских мастерских: «История интересует меня только потому, что она проясняет современность», – говорит дизайнер. И это утверждение особенно правдоподобно в Вене, где мирно соседствуют старинные и современные здания. Отцом-основателем этой эпохи считается архитектор Отто Вагнер – выдающийся участник модернистского движения Венский сецессион, как и Климт. В своей книге 1895 года Moderne Architektur Вагнер объявил о конце исторической архитектуры, к которой относятся необарочные, неоромантические и неогреческие здания вдоль венского бульвара Рингштрассе. Вместо этого он призвал архитекторов осваивать технические достижения нового времени и использовать актуальные материалы – сталь и железо. Эта дерзкая декларация воплотилась в творчестве архитектора Адольфа Лооса – автора самых важных строений того времени. Он отрицал склонность к декору, присущую прежней архитектуре, и ценил более структурный, минималистский подход. Что и проявилось в его шедевре Looshaus, построенном в 1909-1911 годах. Сейчас помещения Looshaus занимает Raiäeisenlandesbank. По словам доктора Райнхарда Пурингера, ответственного за культуру в банке, «это здание остается главным произведением Адольфа Лооса, его первым, самым значительным и масштабным законченным городским сооружением». После завершения строительства «его “обнаженный” фасад вызвал волну негодования в венском обществе»: «Это была одна из самых критикуемых и презираемых построек своего времени». Шли годы – и со временем горожане сумели оценить, что эта архитектура просто опередила свое время. Looshaus прозвали «домом без бровей» из-за отсутствия лепнины и карнизов у окон. Постепенно архитекторы отказывались от манерности, свойственной старым венским зданиям, а Looshaus, по словам Пурингера, globalblue.ru
превратился в «один из самых важных архитектурных памятников 20 века не только в Австрии, но и в целом мире». В 1947 году Looshaus получил статус памятника, и его реставрацией занялся Raiäeisenlandesbank, стремясь сохранить шедевр для будущих поколений и открыть его для посетителей. Венский модерн невозможно исследовать без посещения кофейни Café Central. Анна Карнель, руководитель отдела маркетинга и продаж, рассказывает, что она была «домом и гостиной» венских поэтов, писателей и философов начала 20 века: «Зигмунд éрейд, Артур Шницлер, Альфред Польгар, Лев Троцкий, Роберт Музиль, Стефан Цвейг, Гуго фон Гофмансталь и многие другие легендарные личности собирались здесь, обедали и обменивались идеями». Café Central открылось в 1876 году во Дворце éерстеля, построенном в стиле венецианского и флорентийского треченто. Для современных посетителей кофейня остается особенным местом: «Раз в год мы открываем нашу сцену для молодых литераторов, чтобы продолжать славную историю кофейни», – рассказывает Карнель. Здесь по-прежнему предлагают свежую прессу, качественное обслуживание, вкусные блюда и напитки. Карнель считает, что Café Central «нужно посетить, чтобы почувствовать атмосферу современной венской кофейни и пофантазировать о том, как это было в начале 20 века». Влияние венского модерна проявляется и в современных коллекциях австрийских брендов. Так, творчество Густава Климта стало бездонным источником вдохновения для ювелирного дома Frey Wille. «Ни один художник не ассоциируется с модернизмом больше, чем Густав Климт, – размышляет доктор éридрих Вилле, президент и CEO Frey Wille. – Его женские портреты отражают художественные и научные искания и открытия, сформировавшие Европу в 1900-е». Узнаваемую художественную манеру Климта бренд переосмысляет в украшениях из эмали. Его самым известным картинам «Поцелуй» и «Надежда II» посвящены роскошные и яркие браслеты, ожерелья и часы:
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«Сочные образы, удивительные цвета и золотые узоры – наши художники обращаются к этому, работая над коллекцией Hommage à Gustav Klimt», – подчеркивает Вилле. С его точки зрения, движение Венского сецессиона оказало «огромное влияние на искусство, философию, литературу, архитектуру, дизайн и образ жизни европейского общества того времени»: «Эти великие идеи и шедевры продолжают влиять и сегодня. Присмотритесь к Вене – и свидетельства той эпохи не заставят себя ждать». 43: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
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.الراقي للمجوهرات الرئيس واملدير،Friedrich Wille يقول الدكتور “ما من ف ّنان أقرب إىل األرت:Frey Wille التنفيذي لعالمة توث ّق رسوماته الخالبة لوجوه.Gustav Klimt نوفو أكرث من النساء االكتشافات والتط ّورات الفنيّة والعلميّة التي صقلت Klimt ” ينعكس أسلوب.“كل أوروبا يف مطلع القرن الع”ين املميّز يف مجوهرات العالمة املطليّة بامليناء وتُرتجم أ“هر لوحاته يف أساور وقالداتHope II وThe Kiss التي تشمل : يف هذا اإلطارWille يقول.وساعات فاخرة غنيّة باأللوان “نظرا ً لوفرة الصور املثرية واأللوان الفاتنة والنقوش الحيويّة مل يجد الف ّنانون أي صعوبة يف إيجاد اإللهام،الذهبيّة اللّون Hommage à Gustav لتصاميمهم التي تحمل عنوان .”Klimt ً “تركت حقبة الحداثة النمساويّة أثرا ً كبريا:Wille يضيف عىل الفن والفلسفة واألدب والف ّن املعامري والتصميم وأسلوب وما زال تأثري أفكارها.الحياة يف املجتمعات األوروبيّة آنذاك فابق متيقّظاً فيام تستكشف َ .وأعاملها امله ّمة بارزا ً حتّى اليوم ”.هذه املدينة وستالحظ ذلك ال محال When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 43
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية Masters Of Modernism :26
أرباب الحداثة
شكّل مطلع القرن العرشين نقطة تح ّول يف مسار التط ّور الثقايف يف النمسا .وما زال األثر االبتكاري الذي رافقه واضحاً حتّى يومنا هذا؛ تطلعنا Sally McIlhoneباملزيد
PHOTO: © CAFÉ CENTRAL, WIEN/MICHAEL RZEPA
مىض عىل حقبة الحداثة النمساويّة ( )1890-1910ما يزيد عن قرن ،لكن ما زال أثرها واضحاً يف العاصمة فيينا حتّى يومنا هذا، إن من خالل املقاهي التي تُبقي قصص ر ّوادها السابقني حيّة أو عرب األزياء الفاخرة من ابتكار ،Andreas Kronthalerأحد أشهر املص ّممني يف املدينة. يقول Kronthalerعن املجموعة التي ابتكرها لدار Vivienne Westwoodلخريف/شتاء :2017/2018 “إنّها تحيّة إىل بلدي األ ّم”ُ .صدفةً ،أعاد املص ّمم اكتشاف نقوش Gustav Klimtالتي أحبّها يف شبابه ،فاستوحى من ف ّن فيينا الجميل وثقافتها يف مطلع القرن العرشين. تتأث ّر املجموعة باأللوان واألشكال البارزة التي استخدمها Klimtفتشمل نرتات من الذهب ويستوحي Kronthaler كذلك من مالبس األطفال التي صنعتها مجموعة الف ّنانني Wiener Werkstätteيف فيينا يف أوائل القرن العرشين. تتض ّمن املجموعة نقوشاً مرتبطة بجبال األلب وثوب درندل تقليديّاً ُمبتَكرا ً فتستحيل عىل ح ّد قول املص ّمم “تحيّة” إىل أعامل “أحب .Werkstätteيقول Kronthalerيف هذا الصدد: ّ يفس واقعنا اليوم .وخري مثال عن ذلك هو وقوف التاريخ ألنّه ّ املباين القدمية الطراز والحديثة جنباً إىل جنب يف شوارع فيينا. عىل غرار ،Klimtيشكّل املهندس املعامري Otto Wagnerعضوا ً بارزا ً يف حركة االنفصال الفنيّة فيعتربه كثريون ع ّراب العرص النمساوي الحديث .يف كتابه Moderne ،Architekturالصادر سنة ،1895أعلن Wagnerنهاية حقبة الهندسة املعامريّة التاريخيّة البارزة يف املباين ذات الطراز البارويك الجديد والروماين الجديد واإلغريقي الجديد ،التي ترتصف شارع Ringstrasseيف فيينا .كام دعا املهندسني إىل اعتامد التط ّورات التكنولوجيّة واستخدام مواد مبتكرة كالفوالذ والحديد. ت“هر ”ثار إعالن Wagnerالجريء يف أعامل املهندس Adolf Loosاملعروف بتصميم بعض أبرز املنشآت يف تلك الحقبة .رفض اللّجوء إىل العنارص الزخرفيّة املعتمدة يف األسلوب التقليدي فاتّسمت أعامله مبقاربة أكرث هيكليّة وبساطةً ،كام هو الحال يف مبنى .Looshaus شيّد Looshausبني العامني 1909و 1911ويشغله اليوم مرصف .Raiffeisenlandesبحسب الدكتور Rinhard ،Pühringerاملسؤول الثقايف يف املرصف “ :يبقى هذا املبنى ابتكار Adolf Loosاأل ّول واألسايس وأحد أبرز وأكرب مبنى ُمدُين ُمن َجز ”.يضيف Pühringerأنّه بعد استكامل أعامل “ ،Looshausأحدثت واجهة املبنى “العارية” غري املزخرفة صدم ًة يف مجتمع فيينا .وقد كان من أكرث املباين امل ُنتَقَدة واملكروهة يف ذلك الوقت”. لكن مع مرور الوقت ،الحظ املحليّون يف فيينا أ ّن املبنى
سابقاً لعرصه .لُقّب باملبنى من دون حواجب نسب ًة إىل نوافذه املسطّحة وخل ّوه من الزخرفة الجصيّة والسقائف .وتدريجيّاً، ابتعد املهندسون عن تكلّف القرون السابقة وبات Looshaus عىل ح ّد قول “ Pühringerأحد أبرز املعامل الهندسيّة يف القرن العرشين ،ليس يف النمسا فحسب ،بل يف العامل أجمع”. كان Looshausمن املعامل التي جرى العمل عىل حف“ها فتوىل مرصف Raiffeisenlandesترميم سائر سنة ّ 1947 املبنى لتقدّر األجيال القادمة جامله .وما زال مفتوحاً للز ّوار حتّى يومنا هذا. من األماكن األخرى التي ال ب ّد من زيارتها يف أي رحلة تتمحور حول الحداثة النمساويّة ،مقهى .Café Centralتقول ،Anna Karnelمديرة املبيعات والتسويق لدى املقهى“ :كان مبثابة منزل أو غرفة جلوس لشعراء وكتّاب وفالسفة فيينا يف مطلع القرن العرشين .فيه التقى Sigmund Freud و Arthur Schnitzlerو Alfred PolgarوLeon Trotskyو Robert Musilو Stefan ZweigوHugo von Hofmannsthalوغريهم كثريون من املشاهري لتبادل املعلومات والتلذّذ مبا يقدّمه املقهى”. منذ سنة ،1876يقع مقهى Café Centralداخل قرص Palais Fersteذي األسلوب الف ّني الذي ساد يف البندقيّة وفلورنسا يف القرن الرابع عرش ،وما زال يبهر الز ّوار حتّى يومنا منصتنا أمام املثقّفني هذا .تقول Karnelيف هذا الصدد“ :نفتح ّ الشباب م ّرة يف السنة ونعمل باستمرار عىل بناء تاريخنا” .يقدّم مقهى Café Centralحتّى يومنا هذا تشكيلة واسعة من الصحف والخدمة واملأكوالت واملرشوبات املمتازة ،فيستحيل عىل ح ّد قول “ Karnelاملكان الذي ال ب ّد من زيارته يف فيينا الختبار ثقافة املقاهي التقليديّة الحقيقيّة ،اليوم كام يف العام ”.1900 كام ي“هر تأثري حقبة الحداثة يف فيينا يف املجموعات العرصيّة لدى العالمات التجاريّة النمساويّة واملص ّممني املحليّني. فتجد Gustav Klimtمجدّدا ً مصدر إلهام دار Frey Wille
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