VIENNA | ВЕНА | 维也纳 | فيينا
VIENNA
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Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016
FASHION FORWARD: Discover MQ Vienna Fashion Week’s avant-garde creations
The Art of Tailoring Wien BOSS Store Kärntner Straße 20
HUGO BOSS AG Phone +49 7123 940 hugoboss.com
MOMENTS OF WONDER MONDAY – FRIDAY 9:00 – 21:00 SATURDAY 9:00 – 18:00 Kärntner Straße 24, 1010 Wien, Austria swarovski.com/wien
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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克共和国
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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this cultured European capital. Vienna has much to ofer, as our guide on page 45 reveals. Readers who appreciate cutting-edge fashion will enjoy our feature on the city’s avant-garde fashion week (page 32), and in this issue we also reveal the new boutiques you won’t want to miss. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Vienna. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
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巴黎
Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius
ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Welcome to Vienna
Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris
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Emmanuel Romeuf Award-winning illustrator Emmanuel Romeuf’s thoughtful use of detail and playful concepts made him the ideal choice of illustrator for this season’s cover of SHOP Vienna. The cover was inspired by our feature about MQ Vienna Fashion Week – read more about this avant-garde event, held in the city’s exciting MuseumsQuartier, on page 32. Emmanuel’s other clients include international names such as Warner Music, Helena Rubinstein and Toyota. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
PHOTO: KATIE WILSON ELL
ILLUSTRATION: EMMANUEL ROMEUF
CONTRIBUTORS
Theresa Harold SHOP’s assistant news editor Theresa Harold studied creative writing at Bath Spa University. Since then, she has worked in Hong Kong, Macau and London, covering the latest ideas in luxury living and interviewing designers. globalblue.com
Katie Byrne SHOP’s assistant picture editor Katie Byrne graduated in contemporary media practice from the University of Westminster, specialising in photography, and has previously worked in celebrity news and picture agencies.
Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, features editor at SHOP, read English at the University of Oxford before gaining an MA in journalism from the London College of Fashion. She has previously worked for Time Out in the Middle East.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Emmanuel Romeuf Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
G L O B A L B L U E AU S T R I A Head of commercial Austria Jiří Macas Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Sales manager Martin Tille Global Blue Austria, Zetschegasse 17, A-1230 Vienna, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
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CONTENTS
PHOTO: BIRGER HAGEVOLD JOHANSEN
p.32
Products
Experience
20
40 Stay in Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Vienna this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
Guide 45
News 26 28
Shop Window One store not to be missed in Vienna News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Features 32
Cover story: Daring To Be Different
The Austrian capital is full of creative flair and bold style surprises, as Theresa Harold discovers at MQ Vienna Fashion Week Above: TrueYou spring/summer 2016
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Vienna
Essentials 49
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations 50 Русский Перевод 52 美文翻译 56
Souvenir 58
The essential item to bring home
DEUTSCHE UHRMACHERKUNST.1893
www.christ.de
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CHECK OUT
NEW LEASE OF LIFE Kellerwerk is a Vienna-based homewares, clothing and accessories brand that focuses on original, one-of-a-kind pieces, made by combining different products to create new ones. This unique, appealing lamp, sure to make a talking point in any living room, was created using an old telephone. Lamps, bookcases, tables and furniture of all sorts are given a new lease of life by founders Sascha Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 49
Johannik and Romana F端rst, who created the store of upcycled products after Johannik spent two years in Africa working for an NGO and saw how items were reworked and reused there. Bespoke products can also be commissioned. fm Kellerwerk Telefonlampen lamp, price on request, Kellerwerk, Gumpendorfer Strasse 48, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)699 1065 5755, kellerwerk.at FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
It’s a lot more fun, if it’s tax free!
was € 189,00
now € 119,00* 3-piece knife set “Spitzenklasse Plus“ All prices are recommended retail prices from WMF Österreich GmbH. *) Sum of recommended retail prices from WMF Österreich GmbH. All prices are stated in euros. Only while stocks last.
You fnd us at:
1x 20 cm chef’s knife, 1x 14 cm utility knife and 1x 8 cm vegetable knife Performance Cut is the WMF trademark for superior and long-lasting sharpness in household knives.
Stock im Eisenplatz 3, 1010 Wien Mariahilfer Straße 62, 1070 Wien
Donauzentrum, Wagramer Str. 64, 1220 Wien Shopping City Süd, Top 233, 2334 Vösendorf
22 | P RO D U C T S
RED ALERT Add individuality to your outfit with bold reds and striking golds
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1. Marc Cain top, €79.90, Marc Cain, Weihburggasse 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 4185, marc-cain.com
3. Max Mara glasses, €210, Peek & Cloppenburg, Kärntner Strasse 29, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 8904 8880, maxmara.com
5. Keiko Mecheri Hanae perfume, 75ml, €145, Le Parfum, Petersplatz 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 3939, keikomecheri.com
2. Frey Wille ring, €345, Frey Wille, Lobkowitzplatz 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 1 (0)513 800914, freywille.com
4. Hermès diary cover, €920, Hermès, Graben 22, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 5656, hermes.com
6. Bally ankle boots, €695, Bally, Graben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 0550, bally.eu
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 49
PHOTOS: (1) © ESHOT BERLIN; (7) BERNHARD DECKERT
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7. Alexander McQueen bag, €1,345, Alexander McQueen, Tuchlauben 7A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0395, alexandermcqueen.com
9. Roeckl scarf, €269, Roeckl, Seilergasse 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0726, roeckl.com
8. 7 For All Mankind jeans, €220, 7 For All Mankind, Seitzergasse 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 7796, 7forallmankind.com
10. Thomas Sabo bracelet, €159, Thomas Sabo, Seilergasse 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 3925, thomassabo.com
globalblue.com
11. Mac lipstick, €20.99, Stef, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 14454, maccosmetics.com
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COOL CHROMES
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1. Victorinox watch, €629, Mayr & Fessler, Kärntner Strasse 37, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 2888, victorinox.com
3. Marc O’Polo jacket, €229, Marc O’Polo, Trattnerhof 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 4001, marc-o-polo.com
2. Ermenegildo Zegna trainers, €450, Ermenegildo Zegna, Kohlmarkt 8-10, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0979, zegna.com
4. B&O Play headphones, €449, Media Markt, Landstrasser Hauptstrasse 1B, 1030 Vienna, +43 (0)1 54699, beoplay.com
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 49
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5. Louis Vuitton keychain, from €195, Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com
PHOTOS: (2) CARLO BEVILACQUA; (4) JEPPE SØRENSON; (5) LOUIS VUITTON MALLETIER/BRUNO ASSELOT
Keep it simple this summer with monochrome tones
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6. Diesel jeans, €300, Diesel, Mariahilfer Strasse 89, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)1 587 701072, diesel.com 7. Montblanc screenwriter, €505, Montblanc, Graben 15, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3330, montblanc.com globalblue.com
8. Cos T-shirt, €49, Cos, Bauernmarkt 2A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0538, cosstores.com
9. Vertu phone, €15,500, Juwelier Köck, Graben 22, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0888, vertu.com
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PHOTO: OLIVIER SAILLANT
SHOP WINDOW
GOLDEN TOUCH Chanel opened a new store in Vienna’s Golden Quarter in July 2015; as with all of the brand’s boutiques, the space was conceived by New York architect Peter Marino to reflect the creativity and craftsmanship at the core of the maison. Marino drew inspiration from Mademoiselle Chanel’s own Parisian Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 49
townhouse on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and her apartment at 31 rue Cambon. The stunning new store carries the label’s latest ready-to-wear collections alongside leather goods, footwear, accessories and watches. th Chanel, Tuchlauben 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 246800, chanel.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
KOHLMARKT 12 • VIENNA shop tommy.com
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MAKE AN IMPACT
Wempe, Kärntner Strasse 41, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 3322, wempe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
PHOTO: PETERRIGAUD.COM
Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eye-catching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace (€9,975). This classic 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet, whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave. irs
PERFECT FIT A made-to-measure suit or dress is not hard to find, but in modern times, bespoke shoes are less common. Scheer, however, still produces made-to-measure footwear in its workshop in the heart of Vienna, in a building of the Gründerzeit architectural style. The company dates from 1816, and little has changed about the manufacturing process that has now been handed down through seven Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 49
generations of the founding family. The creation of each pair of handmade shoes takes around 60 hours and clients make three visits to the workshop before taking their natural leather footwear home; Scheer produces around 300 pairs each year. rd Scheer, Bräunerstrasse 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 8084, scheer.at FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
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PROVENCE IN VIENNA
PHOTO: BILL LORENZ
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES FOR MERCEDES-BENZ/FRAZER HARRISON
Austrian designer Lena Hoschek celebrated the 10th anniversary of her fashion label in November 2015. For her spring/summer 2016 show, she took inspiration from Provence and concocted a collection of dreamy dresses, bohemian accessories and rustic footwear, in a muted colour scheme with liberal use of floral patterns and faded fabrics. Hoschek’s keen eye for detail deftly transported the audience to an idyllic Mediterranean landscape. Visitors to the Vienna store in the city’s MuseumsQuartier will be similarly enchanted. th Lena Hoschek, Gutenberggasse 17, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5030 9200, lenahoschek.com
AUSTRIA WELCOMES HACKETT British menswear brand Hackett has opened its first Austrian store in Vienna. The 130-square-metre space is divided into three rooms, connected by curved panelled archways. Customers enter the store through casualwear, which includes Hackett’s partnership collection with Aston Martin; the second room houses the Hackett Mayfair and formalwear collections; at globalblue.com
the back of the store, visitors will find a spacious fitting room area complete with a bar. The development has stayed true to the historic building’s original features while introducing modern elements such as granite and timber flooring and exposed brickwork. This merging of old and new reflects Hackett’s own combination of tradition with modern sophistication. rd Hackett, Wallnerstrasse 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5334 46122, hackett.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
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EASTERN MAGIC Indigo Express is the destination in Vienna for authentic Indian interiors and accessories. Located in the city’s 6th district, the showroom stocks solid wooden tables, stools, cabinets, sideboards and benches, all sourced in India
BRILLIANT BUCHERER Bucherer has been known for excellence since it opened its first watch and jewellery boutique in Lucerne in 1888, and today it has stores across the globe. The company’s long partnership with Rolex allows it to offer an unrivalled selection of the brand’s prestigous watches. Bucherer’s own range of fine jewellery is also not to be missed. Look out for the exquisite La Cerise collection, which includes these ultra-feminine flower-shaped earrings (€3,850) with their intricate decoration of diamonds and tourmalines. irs Bucherer, Kärntner Strasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6730, bucherer.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48
globalblue.com
and reclaimed from premises such as schools and teashops. Owner Irene HaberfelnerAdams previously worked with interior designers in New York, and her love of all things Indian stems from her extensive travels in south Asia. rd Indigo Express, Linke Wienzeile 108, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)664 946 9254, indigoexpress.at
PHOTO: FELIX VRATNY
The Austrian capital is full of creative fair and bold style surprises, as Theresa Harold discovers at MQ Vienna Fashion Week
Lef: And I Maximus collection spring/summer 2016
PHOTO: FELIX VRATNY
PHOTO: FELIX VRATNY
PHOTO: ELFIE SEMOTAN
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W
hile cities such as Paris and London have a long-standing fashion week tradition, Vienna’s version is a more recent addition to the industry calendar. Nonetheless, it has already built a global reputation for its daring, avant-garde designs – perhaps unexpectedly so, given the city’s conservative reputation. Located in the MuseumsQuartier, a restored area of historic and contemporary buildings, MQ Vienna Fashion Week showcases new work through exhibitions, events and fashion shows. With the
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eyes of the world’s press on them, emerging and established designers have a great opportunity to present their visions for the new season. One such established talent is Andreas Eberharter of luxury accessories brand And I. Founded in 2001, the label has won numerous awards including Best Accessories Designer in 2010 and Best Designer Branding in 2012, both at the Vienna Fashion Awards. Eberharter trained as a goldsmith and sculptor, and his unique metal masks and eyepatches have become cult classics. Celebrity fans include Above (clockwise from top left): And I Maximus collection spring/summer 2016; the brand’s designer Andreas Eberharter; Eberharter at work in his atelier
PHOTOS: CHRIS ECKER
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Milla Jovovich and Beyoncé. Lady Gaga even used an And I eyepatch in her music video for Paparazzi. Speaking about his inspiration, Eberharter admits that he is ‘totally sci-fi and tribal influenced’ yet he acknowledges the impact Austria has on his work. ‘I grew up in the mountains of Tyrol. My grandfather had a really nice farm on one of the highest alps in Zillertal. So for me, it is very important to reconnect with nature in order to clear the mind and get new ideas. Living in Vienna, I can get to a national park within 30 minutes by car.’ Above (both): Callisti spring/summer 2016
Living in proximity to areas of great natural beauty may be a key factor for Eberharter, but other designers take inspiration from different sources. As Martina Müller Callisti, founder and designer of fashion brand Callisti, explains, ‘I get all my inspiration when I travel around the world: other cultures, people on the streets, other fashion designers … that’s what inspires me.’ With her use of form-fitting leather, strategic cut-outs, and harnesses as accessories, Callisti’s work is representative of Vienna’s new, audacious take on fashion. ‘In
PHOTO: BIRGER HAGEVOLD JOHANSEN
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By encouraging local designers to set up shop in the heart of the city, Vienna shows that it takes pride in its home-grown talent the last couple of years, there has been a small fashion scene slowly becoming more avantgarde. So I am hopeful that Vienna is steering away from the conservative and traditional.’ Much like And I, Callisti is only physically stocked in Vienna, though both designers have online stores. This means that although they have international clients, the majority of customers for And I and Callisti are Austrian. ‘My client ratio is about 70% Austrian and 30% international,’ says Callisti. ‘Since I have my store in the 1st district in Vienna, there are a lot of tourists too.’ Does this have a noticeable impact on design concepts? ‘I have some special clients in Vienna who have been buying my clothes for years,’ she says. ‘Since I know them pretty well by now, I like to design some items especially for them.’ Ilja J Lawal, chief executive and founder Above (clockwise from top left): two looks from TrueYou spring/summer 2016; the brand’s founder and CEO Ilja J Lawal
gerryweber.at
BREGENZ · BÜRS · EISENSTADT · GERASDORF · GRAZ · INNSBRUCK · KLAGENFURT · KREMS · LINZ · RIED SALZBURG · SPITTAL · ST. PÖLTEN · TELFS · VELDEN · VILLACH · WELS · WIEN · WÖRGL · ZELL AM SEE
PHOTO: BIRGER HAGEVOLD JOHANSEN
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of TrueYou, is similarly pragmatic. ‘While we don’t necessarily design our products with the Viennese client in mind, we do try to keep our designs as wearable as possible,’ he explains. ‘Since we are indeed based in Vienna, we strive to please the broad audience rather than just reaching a small set of individuals.’ Those who saw his show at MQ Vienna Fashion Week might wonder how net T-shirts and dropped-crotch trousers can be considered wearable, yet away from the make-up and dramatic styling of the catwalk, the individual pieces strike just the right balance of edgy and easy-to-wear. Indeed, the majority of the collection is unisex – which really does address the broadest audience possible. Schella Kann is another Austrian label with its atelier in Vienna. Established in 1985, it is something of an institution on the Viennese Above: TrueYou spring/summer 2016
fashion circuit. Yet designer Anita Aigner is anything but complacent. ‘Vienna has changed a lot in the last 20 years,’ she remarks. ‘It’s not that conservative any more.’ Influenced by renowned Austrian fashion designer Helmut Lang, Aigner creates directional pieces for the modern woman. Her recent collections have played with volume and shape, subtly altering the body’s silhouette. One of the most interesting aspects of Vienna’s shopping scene is that, unlike many other cities, its quirky and independent fashion stores are not relegated to the outer fringes. In fact, both Callisti and Schella Kann have flagship stores in the historic 1st district. By encouraging local designers to set up shop in the heart of the city, Vienna sends out a clear message that it takes pride in its homegrown talent
SEE THE NEW 2016 SPRING/SUMMER COLLECTION IN STORES NOW ECCO STORE VIENNA Kärntner Straße 47 · 1010 Vienna +43 1 512 2962 ECCO STORE SHOPPING CITY SÜD Entrance 6 · 2334 Vösendorf +43 1 609 1027
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STAY IN STYLE
PHOTO: NIKOLAS KOENIG
The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best
GENERATOR PARIS Located in the city’s up-and-coming 10th arrondissement, this is the Generator group’s largest venue to date. Generator’s establishments take the concept of relaxed, traveller-friendly hostels and reinvent it for style-conscious clients. Generator Paris features a rooftop terrace with beautiful views globalblue.com
of the city, chill-out areas inspired by Morocco, and an underground speakeasy-style bar. This is a welcoming and bustling venue in an area that boasts beautiful parks, art galleries, independent boutiques and on-trend eateries, and it is just a short walk from the Gare du Nord. Generator Paris, 9-11 place du Colonel Fabien, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 7098 8400, generatorhostels.com
PHOTO: LUTZ VORDERWUELBECKE
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W AMSTERDAM W Hotels has recently opened its first venue in the Netherlands. Situated behind the Royal Palace, W Amsterdam occupies two of the city’s historic buildings: the former telephone exchange and a bank. In creating the interiors, design studio Baranowitz & Kronenberg was sensitive to the buildings’ heritage and incorporated features such as brass pipes which represent the telephone wires that were an integral part of the telephone exchange. The
hotel comprises 238 stylishly decorated rooms and suites, including three Wow suites – the hotel’s version of a presidential suite. Showing that it is embracing new technology, W Amsterdam allows guests to enter their rooms using their smartphone or Apple watch. While here, spend time in the W Lounge, with its stunning 360-degree views across the city’s bustling streets and picturesque canals. W Amsterdam, Spuistraat 175, 1012 VN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 811 2500, wamsterdam.com
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BAUER PALAZZO The Bauer Palazzo hotel is the perfect romantic bolthole for your next trip to Venice. Located on the banks of the Grand Canal in Venice, mere steps from Piazza San Marco, the luxurious five-star hotel is housed in a traditional 18th-century Venetian palazzo with a gothic façade and arched lancet windows. Bauer Palazzo offers 135 guest rooms and 56 suites, sumptuously decorated, many boasting terraces or private balconies. For panoramic globalblue.com
views of the city, venture up to Settimo Cielo, the highest rooftop terrace in Venice, where breakfast is served. And don’t forget to book dinner at De Pisis, Bauer Palazzo’s gourmet restaurant, where chef Hiraki Masakazu will impress you with his Asian-inspired Mediterranean cuisine. Bauer Palazzo, Campo San Moisè, San Marco 1459, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 7022, bauervenezia.com
PHOTO: KALORY LTD
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THE STAFFORD LONDON A stay at the Stafford London offers a glimpse of the city’s history. The building dates back to the 1600s and there has been a luxury hotel here for more than a century; the Stafford London’s elegant decor was inspired by timeless English style. In this heritage setting, visitors are provided with all modern conveniences. At the Lyttelton restaurant, chef Carlos Martinez focuses on local, seasonal
ingredients while resident mixologist Erik Rychnavsky creates cocktails inspired by stories from the hotel’s rich past in the American Bar. Be sure to visit the hotel’s 380-year-old wine cellar, where master sommelier Gino Nardella hosts wine tastings and wine-pairing dinners throughout the year. The Stafford London, 16-18 St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NJ, +44 (0)20 7493 0111, thestaffordlondon.com
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THE GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Vienna with helpful maps of the main shopping areas, which show key visitor attractions as well as where to fnd the city’s must-visit boutiques. For further helpful hints from our well-travelled team and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/vienna.
PHOTO: © WIENTOURISMUS/WALTER HOFMANN
A Glimpse Of Vienna
Above: sunset over Stephansdom, Vienna’s impressive cathedral
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Explore the full range of luxury clothing and SE GAS TSON accessories from French T R AU superbrand Chanel at its stylish new flagship store, designed by Peter Marino. Chanel, R A S S E R ST ELDE 1, N FTuchlauben 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 246800, chanel.com
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The beautiful, original home accessories at the Kellerwerk boutique are unique, one-of-a-kind pieces, carefully SCH MID G A S SE crafted by hand from unusual and reclaimed materials. Kellerwerk, Gumpendorfer Strasse 48, RATHAUS 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)699 1065 5755, kellerwerk.at
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Place Of Interest
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Discover the distinctive style of Austrian E womenswear brand S SSchella GGA B U R at the annual MQ Kann, a regular Vienna Fashion Week, at its elegant flagship boutique in the city centre. Schella Kann, Spiegelgasse 15, 1010 Vienna, +45 (0)1 997 2755, schellakann.com
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● WEMPE P.28 ANN BENETTON AG A SSE ● MEGASTORE ● ECCO
Shiki ● POPP & KRETSCHMER
Featured In This Issue
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 32: Daring To Be Different
Смелые фантазии
Если Париж и Лондон обладают давно устоявшей традицией модных недель, то Венская неделя моды совсем недавно вошла в стильный календарь. Однако ей уже удалось завоевать уважение в мире благодаря смелому и авангардному дизайну. Возможно, сработал эффект неожиданности, учитывая консервативную репутацию этого города. MQ Vienna Fashion Week проходит в MuseumsQuartier – отреставрированном квартале с историческими и современными зданиями. Новые коллекции демонстрируются здесь с помощью выставок, специальных событий и модных показов. Благодаря вниманию мировой прессы, молодые и уже известные дизайнеры получили возможность публично представить свои образы к новому сезону. Андреас Эберхартер – из числа уже состоявшихся дизайнеров. Он учился на ювелира и скульптора, а в 2001 году основал свою марку аксессуаров And I и получил за нее множество наград, в том числе Best Accessories Designer в 2010 и Best Designer Branding в 2012 – обе в рамках Vienna Fashion Awards. Необычные металлические маски и повязки на глаза Эберхартера уже стали культовой классикой: среди их звездных поклонников – Мила Йовович и Beyoncé, а Lady Gaga использовала повязку в клипе Paparazzi. Говоря об источниках своего вдохновения, Эберхартер утверждает, что на него «очень повлияли научная фантастика и этника». В то же время он признает влияние Австрии на свое globalblue.com
PHOTO: IVO KOCHERSCHEIDT
Тереза Гарольд побывала на Венской неделе моды MQ Vienna Fashion Week и обнаружила, что столица Австрии богата на творческие таланты
творчество: «Я вырос в горах Тироля. У моего дела была прекрасная ферма на высокогорном пастбище в Циллертале. Поэтому для меня очень важно воссоединяться с природой, чтобы очистить разум и уловить новые идеи. Живя в Вене, я могу добраться до национального парка всего за 30 минут на машине». Другие венские дизайнеры находят вдохновение в иных источниках. Мартина Мюллер Каллисти, основательница и дизайнер бренда Callisti, делится своими: «Я получаю вдохновение, когда путешествую по миру: другие культуры, люди на улицах, другие модные дизайнеры... Вот что побуждает меня творить». В своих коллекциях она использует обтягивающую кожу, тщательно продуманные декоративные вырезы, а также ремни в качестве аксессуаров. Творчество Каллисти можно назвать показательным для венского смелого подхода к моде: «В последние несколько лет венская модная сцена постепенно становится все более авангардной. Я преисполнена надежды, что Вена отходит от консерватизма и традиционализма». Как и And I, Callisti физически
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представлен только в Вене, хотя у обоих брендов есть онлайн-магазины. Это означает, что несмотря на наличие покупателей из других стран, все же основную долю составляют австрийцы. «В моем случае соотношение таково: 70% – австрийцы и 30% – иностранцы, – делится Каллисти. – У меня есть собственный магазин в первом районе Вены, где тоже много туристов». На вопрос, влияет ли это на дизайнерские решения, она отвечает так: «У меня есть особые клиенты в Вене, которые покупают мою одежду на протяжении многих лет. Поскольку я уже неплохо их знаю, мне нравится создавать некоторые вещи специально для них». Исполнительный директор и основатель марки TrueYou Илья Дж. Лаваль столь же прагматично подходит к этому вопросу: «éазрабатывая наши вещи, мы не столько имеем в виду венских покупателей, сколько стараемся сделать одежду максимально удобной для ношения, – объясняет он. – А поскольку мы находимся в Вене, то стараемся в большей степени порадовать широкую аудиторию, а не обращаться только к небольшой группе сумасшедших индивидуалов». Те, кто видел показ его бренда на модной неделе, могут удивиться: футболки в сетку и брюки с заниженной шаговой линией сложно назвать «удобными для ношения». И действительно, если не считать мейк-апа и стайлинга для подиумных образов, в отдельных вещах дизайнеру удалось соблюсти баланс между актуальным стилем и удобством. Большая часть коллекций выдержана в стиле унисекс, который определенно адресован максимально широкой аудитории. Schella Kann – еще один австрийский лейбл с ателье в Вене. Он был основан в 1985 году и стал неотъемлемой частью венской модной сцены. Но дизайнер Анита Айнер далека от того, чтобы почивать на лаврах: «Вена очень изменилась за последние 20 лет. Теперь она не так консервативна». На творчество Айнер повлиял знаменитый австрийский дизайнер Хельмут Ланг, и теперь она создает нишевые вещи для современной женщины. Ее новые коллекции обыгрывают объемы и формы,
аккуратно преображая силуэт тела. Самое интересное, что венские независимые бренды не склонны уезжать на окраины, и эта особенность отличает Вену от многих других городов. Флагманские магазины Callisti и Schella Kann расположены в первом районе – то есть в историческом центре. Стимулируя местных дизайнеров открывать бутики в самом сердце города, Вена ясно дает понять, что гордится своими талантливыми жителями. 49: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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32: Daring To Be Different 维也纳时装周盛况一览
充满创意天赋的维也纳首都，以大胆风格营造遍地 惊喜。Theresa Harold带您一览MQ维也纳时装周 的盛况 巴黎和伦敦等城市固然有着悠久的时装周传统，但 身为时尚业新秀的维也纳时装周也已凭借大胆而前 卫的设计享誉全球。在这个素以保守而著称的城 市，维也纳时装周的蜚声也许出乎人们的意料。时装 周在维也纳博物馆区（MuseumsQuartier，简称 MQ）举行，在这里，修缮妥当的历史遗迹与当代建 筑鳞次栉比。一场场展览、活动和时装秀，让MQ维 也纳时装周成为了新作亮相的一大平台。全世界媒 体的瞩目，给予了后起之秀和大牌设计师们绝佳的 机会，展示他们对新季时尚的愿景。 其中一位设计天才，便是奢侈配饰品牌And I的 设计师Andreas Eberharter。这家创立于2001年的 品牌荣誉斐然，曾在维也纳时尚大奖中斩获2010年 最佳配饰设计师（Best Accessories Designer）和 2012年最佳设计师品牌（Best Designer Branding）两大奖项。作为一名训练有素的金匠和 雕刻家，Eberharter打造的金属面罩和眼罩皆为独 一无二、备受追捧的经典之作。其拥趸不乏Milla Jovovich和Beyoncé等名流，Lady Gaga更是在 Paparazzi这首歌的MV中戴上了And I眼罩。说起 创作灵感，Eberharter承认自己 “完全是受科幻小说 和部落文化的启发”，当然他认可奥地利对他作品的 深刻影响。“我在蒂罗尔州的山间长大。齐勒河谷最 高的一处山脉上，有我祖父的农场，那个农场真的 很棒。所以，通过与大自然重新连接来清除杂念、获 取新知，对我来说是非常重要的事。我住在维也纳， 驱车半小时即可抵达国家公园。” 与自然美景比邻而居或许是Eberharter的关键 灵感因素，其他设计师则有着不同的灵感来源。时尚 品牌Callisti的创始人兼设计师Martina Müller Callisti说：“我的全部灵感都来自于环游世界的旅 途——不一样的文化、街上的人、其他的时尚设计 师……是那些东西让我灵光一现。” 她不仅在设计 中选用贴身的皮革，还匠心独运地剪开几处破洞、用 背带做配饰，其作品代表了维也纳不拘一格的时尚 新风向。“过去一两年里，一小圈时尚人士正慢慢变 得前卫起来。所以我对维也纳抱有很大希望，它正 在摆脱保守和传统的形象。” 与And I 相似的是，Callisti也只在维也纳设有 实体店，不过两家都拥有在线商店。这意味着，尽管 他们也不乏国际客户，但消费主体依然是奥地利 globalblue.com
人。“在我的顾客群中，奥地利人占七成，外国人占三 成，”Callisti说道。“因为店址位于维也纳第一区，很 多游客也会来到这里。”这是否会对设计理念产生显 著影响？“在维也纳有几位特别的顾客，多年来一直 购买我出品的服装，”她说。“我现在对他们已经非常 了解，所以喜欢专门为他们设计一些单品。” 无独有偶，TrueYou的首席执行官兼创始人Ilja J Lawal也很务实。“虽然我们在设计产品时，未必想 着去迎合维也纳客户，但的确会努力保证衣物的可 穿性，”他解释道。“既然我们确实身在维也纳，就会 尽力去满足大多数消费者，而不是只照顾一小群人 的疯狂癖好。”在时装周目睹了TrueYou秀场的人可 能会好奇，网状T恤和落裆裤何以被视作“可穿”。其 实，抛开妆容和戏剧性的猫步，这一件件单品恰好在 前卫与易穿之间取得了平衡。该系列也确实侧重于中 性服装——果然照顾到了尽可能多的观众。 创立于1985年的奥地利品牌Schella Kann也 将工作室开在了维也纳，并在当地时尚圈小有名气。 但设计师Anita Aigner绝不会因此而志得意满。“过 去的20年里，维也纳变化不少，”她说。“它再也不像 从前那么保守了。”受奥地利时尚设计大师Helmut Lang的影响，Aigner的作品专为现代女性量身打 造。她在近期的系列作品中巧妙运用体积与形状，微 妙地改变着人体的轮廓。 维也纳购物圈最有趣的地方之一便是，那些古 怪、独立的时尚店铺没有被排挤到外缘地带。这一点 与其他许多城市不同。事实上，Callisti和Schella Kann 都在历史悠久的第一区拥有旗舰店。通过鼓 励当地设计师在市中心开设店铺，维也纳发出了清 晰的讯号——这座城市对本土走出的时尚人才引以 为豪。
PHOTO: CHRIS ECKER
美文翻译
PRIVATE AIRCRAFT CHARTER AND VIP & BUSINESS SERVICES exclusive for you at Vienna Airport
GENERAL AVIATION & VIP SERVICES VIENNA AIRCRAFT HANDLING GMBH Steinriegelweg, Object 140 1300 Vienna Airport Tel.: +43 1 7007 22204 / 24h Hotline Fax: +43 1 7007 22464 E-Mail: vah@viennaairport.com www.viennaaircrafthandling.at
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When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 49
عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضريبة Tax Freeلتدّخر المال لدى تس ّوقك في أكثر من 270,000متجر في أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العالم. فل َم ل تنض ّم إلى الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضريبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينما تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب في طريق العودة إلى وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصالتك قبل قبض السترداد من الخاصة بنا. أحد مكاتب السترداد ّ للتّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
أنفق ح ّدا ً أدنى قدره €75.01وادّخر حتّى 15%من ثمن مشترياتك .يشمل مبلغ السترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضريبة على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري .في بعض المطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد ضريبة في حال رغبت بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي.
49: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free 。Shopping）为您节约购物开销 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻 找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 ）（Global Blue Tax Free Form 。，并记得保存小票
2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 。的退税点领取您的退税款 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 。最低消费€75.01即可节约高达购买价格15%的税 请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除 管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收 。取现金退税手续费
PHOTO: FELIX VRATNY
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PHOTO: FELIX VRATNY
استراتيجيّاً والحزمة كأكسسوارات ،فيمثّل عملها أسلوب فيينا الجديد والجريء في عالم الموضة“ .في السنوات القليلة الماضية ،شهدت ساحة الزياء الصغيرة تح ّولً بطيئاً نحو البتكار. لذا آمل أن تكون فيينا تحاول البتعاد عن السلوب المتحفّظ والتقليدي ”.على غرار ،And Iتقع علمة Callistiفي فيينا لكن للمص ّممين متاجر على شبكة النترنت .هذا يعني أنّه بالرغم من جذب العلمتين زبائن من حول العالم ،غالبيّة زبائنهم نمساويين .تقول “ % ”Callistiمن زبائني نمساويين و30% من حول العالم .بحكم موقع متجري في المنطقة الولى في فيينا ،ث ّمة أيضاً الكثير من الس ّواح ”.هل يؤث ّر ذلك بشكلٍ ملحوظ “لدي في فيينا بعض الزبائن المميّزين على مفاهيم التصميم؟ ّ وأحب أن أص ّمم بعض الذين يشترون تصاميمي منذ سنين، ّ الخاصة بهم”. القطع ّ يتمتّع ،Ilja J Lawalالمدير التنفيذي لـ TrueYou ِ ومؤسسها ،بالعمليّة نفسها .يقول“ :صحيح أنّنا ل نص ّمم أزياءنا للزبائن النمساويين بشكلٍ خاص ،لكن نحاول أن تكون قابلة للرتداء قدر المستطاع .بحكم موقعنا في فيينا ،نسعى إلى إرضاء شريحة كبيرة من الجمهور بدلً من الوصول إلى مجموعة صغيرة من الفراد المجانين ”.تساءل الذين رأوا عرض أزيائه في أسبوع الموضة كي” يمكن ارتداء قمصانه الشبكيّة وسراويل الشروال،
منصة العرض ،تحد“ قطعه الفرديّة التوازن المثالي لكن خارج ّ بين الملبس الجريئة والعمليّة .والحقيقة أن غالبيّة المجموعة مص ّممة للنساء والرجال على ح ّد سواء ،المر الذي يصل إلى أوسع جمهور ممكن. Schella Kannعلمة نمساويّة أخرى واقعة في فيينا. بمؤسسة داخل نطاق الزياء في تأسست سنة 1985وهي أشبه ّ ّ فيينا .لكن من الصعب إرضاء مص ّممة العلمة .Anita Aigner تقول في هذا الصدد“ :شهدت فيينا تغييرات كثيرة في السنوات العشرين الخيرة .لم تعد متحفّظة للغاية ”.متأث ّر ًة بالمص ّمم النمساوي الشهير ،Helmut Langتبتكر Aignerقطعاً تحدّد الموضة للمرأة العصريّة .وقد تلعبت مجموعاتها الخيرة بالحجم والشكل مغيّر ًة تضاريس الجسم فجأةً. من أبرز المزايا المثيرة للهتمام في مجال التس ّوق في فيينا أنّه ،وعلى عكس الكثير من المدن الخرى ،ل تبتعد متاجره لكل من Callisti المبتكرة والمستقلّة عن الداخل .في الواقعّ ، و Schella Kannمتاجر رئيسيّة في المنطقة التاريخيّة الولى .من خلل تشجيع مص ّممين محليّين على افتتاح محلت لهم في قلب المدينة ،تبعث فيينا رسالة واضحة تعبّر فيها عن فخرها بمواهبها المحليّة.
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PHOTO: BIRGER HAGEVOLD JOHANSEN
ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية Daring To Be Diferent: 32
الجرأة على الختلف
العاصمة النمساويّة غنيّة بالمواهب البتكاريّة وبالساليب الجريئة المفاجئة ،على ح ّد قول Theresa Theresa Haroldفي أسبوع فيينا للموضة في MQ أسابيع الموضة في بعض المدن كباريس ولندن قديمة العهد، إل أنّها إضافة جديدة إلى الرزنامة في فيينا .وبالرغم من ذلك، كسبت شهرة عالميّة بفضل تصاميمها الجريئة والمبتكرة ،المر الذي أتى عكس التوقّعات في مدينة اتّسمت بالتحفّظ .يُقام أسبوع فيينا للموضة في Museum Quartierوهي منطقة منص ًة لعرض مر ّممة تض ّم مبانٍ تاريخيّة ومعاصرة ويشكّل الحدث ّ أعما ٍل جديدة من خلل معارض ومناسبات وعروض أزياء .ونتيجة الضواء التي تسلّطها الصحافة العالميّة على هذا الحدث ،يحظى المص ّممون الصاعدون والمرموقون بفرصة كبيرة لتقديم رؤياهم للموسم الجديد. تجدر الشارة إلى موهبة Andreas Eberharterمن علمة
تأسست العلمة سنة 2001وفازت الكسسوارات الفاخرة ّ .And I جوائز متعددّة بما فيها أفضل مص ّمم أكسسوارات سنة 2010 وأفضل علمة تصميم سنة ،2012كليهما في حفل فيينا لجوائز الموضة .تعلّم Eberharterصياغة الذهب والنحت وباتت أقنعته وعصابات العين المعدنيّة الفريدة من نوعها قطعاً كلسيكيّة رائجة .م éأتباعه المشاهير Milla Jovovichو .Beyoncéوقد استخدمت Lady Gagaعصابة عي éم And I éفي أغنيتها المص ّورة .Paparazziوبالحديث ع éإلهامه ،يق ّر Eberharter أنّه “متأث ّر تماماً بالخيال العلمي والقبائل” ويعترف بأثر النمسا على أعماله .يقول“ :ترعرعت في جبال .Tyrolكان لجدّي مزرعة جميلة في أحد أعلى جبال اللب في .Zillertalلذا م éالمه ّم ج ّدا ً بالنسبة لي أن أعود إلى الطبيعة لصفي ذهني وأستوحي أفكارا ً جديدة .وبما أنّني أعيش في فيينا ،يمكنني زيارة الحديقة العا ّمة بغضون نصف ساعة بالسيّارة”. قد تكون القامة بجوار مناطق تتمتّع بجمال طبيعي باهر م éأحد العناصر الساسيّة بالنسبة إلى ،Eberharterلكé يستوحي مص ّممون آخرون م éمصادر مختلفة .على ح ّد تعبير مؤسسة ومص ّممة العلمة التجاريّة ّ ،Martina Müller Callisti المختصة بالزياء “ :Callistiأستوحي م éأسفاري حول العالم: ّ ثüافات أخرى والناس في الشارع ومص ّممون آخرون ...هذا مصدر وحيي ”.تستخدم Callistiالجلد الضيّق والتصاميم المكشوفة globalblue.com
58 | P RO D U C T S
ON YOUR BIKE Austrian-born Simone Springer and Yuji Mizobuchi from Japan are the designers behind accessories and footwear label Rosa Mosa. They work with local suppliers and artisans to create their unusual and innovative collections. For spring/summer 2016, the duo wanted to revamp classic designs in modern ways. This Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 49
wicker basket, for example, is a playful take on the traditional bicycle basket and also makes a stylish storage option. Collaborating with regional workshops, Rosa Mosa reinterprets the Austrian tradition of basket-weaving for a contemporary audience. th Rosa Mosa basket, â‚Ź299, Sight, Kirchengasse 24, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)676 739 4407, rosamosa.com
PHOTO: MAGDALENA JURISIC
SOUVENIR
Montblanc Heritage Spirit Moonphase and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights The new Montblanc Heritage Spirit Moonphase features the moonphase complication in the spirit of traditional ďŹ ne watchmaking. Housed in a 39 mm 18 K red gold case, the self-winding Calibre MB 29.14 indicates the moonphase in a crescent-shaped aperture, making this reďŹ ned timepiece a true lifetime companion. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com
GRABEN / TRATTNERHOF 1 路 1010 WIEN