VIENNA | 维也纳 | ВЕНА | فيينا
VIENNA
Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2017
BUCH ER ER .COM
EINZIGARTIG WIE IHRE EMOTIONEN – SEIT 1888 UHREN SCHMUCK JUWELEN
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KOHLMARKT 12 VIENNA
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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this elegant European capital. Vienna has much to offer, as our guide on page 37 reveals. Discover Austria’s top jewellers in our feature on page 26 and in this issue we also reveal the best bars and the boutiques you won’t want to miss. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Vienna. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Emma Johnson Luxury lifestyle writer Emma Johnson specialises in food, fashion, shopping and travel. Previously managing editor at the City Magazine, she has also written for Exclusively British, Mr H, Canary Wharf and Vantage, among others. globalblue.com
Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, Global Blue’s commercial editor, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine. Ruairidh is a keen traveller and writes for a variety of publications.
Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. She has contributed to Time Out in Dubai, Quintessentially in London and Prestige in Hong Kong.
ILLUSTRATION: RUI RICARDO - FOLIO ART; PHOTOS: (MIDDLE) © MICHAEL CHAPMAN; (RIGHT) KATIE WILSON ELL
Rui Ricardo Rui Ricardo created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Vienna. Inspired by our feature about Austria’s top jewellers, he has composed a city of jewellery – read more on page 26. Rui’s other clients include the Times, Samsung and Tommy Hilfiger. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
SALZBURG WIEN
A LT E R M A R K T 5 A M G R A B E N 26
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
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Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Rui Ricardo - Folio Art Contributor Emma Johnson Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
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Head of commercial Austria Jiří Macas Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Junior marketing specialist Gurbir Kang Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Sales manager Martin Tille Global Blue Austria, Rivergate, Handelskai 92, 1200 Vienna, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com
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Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue
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CONTENTS PAGE
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PRODUCTS
FEATURE
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Vienna this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
NEWS 22
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Shop Window One store not to be missed in Vienna News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Cover story:
Meet Austria’s Jewellery Masters Austria’s jewellery scene showcases a perfect blend of classic heritage styles and contemporary innovation. Emma Johnson seeks out the most exciting names to know
EXPERIENCE 32
Raising The Bar Vienna’s best bars offer inventive drinks menus, luxurious interiors and captivating ambience, says Hannah Lewis
GUIDE 37
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Vienna
ESSENTIALS 41
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
TRANSLATIONS 42 美文翻译 44 Русский Перевод 49
SOUVENIR 50
The essential item to bring home
Above (from left): the elegant Mykita boutique on the city’s historic Herrengasse; Nixe Luna Piena pendant from the Frey Wille Hommage à Gustav Klimt collection
PHOTO: (RIGHT) COURTESY OF FREY WILLE
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CH ECK OUT
QUALITY TIME Gold, black leather and diamonds are three classic, elegant, timeless materials, brought together in this fine timepiece from Glasshütte Original. The Lady Serenade is handcrafted in rose gold and sapphire crystal with a Louisiana alligator leather strap, and is equally
appropriate worn day or evening. Waterproof to a depth of five metres, the watch winds automatically and has a 40-hour power reserve. It is also available in an equally desirable white version with a cream-coloured strap and a mother-of-pearl dial. This collection’s pared-back use of monochrome allows the watches’ contrast of matte and polished surfaces, clear design
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 41
and playful details to shine out, proving that the designs that may appear the simplest are the ones that make the greatest impressions. fm Glasshütte Original Lady Serenade 36mm watch, from €17,500, Glashütte Original, Kohlmarkt 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 1310, glashuette-original.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 40
20 | P R O D U C T S
SHINE BRIGHT Fiery red accessories lend standout detail to a classic leather jacket 1
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1. Belstaff jacket, €1,095, Steffl, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 930560, belstaff.com
4. Montblanc Boheme ExoTourbillon watch, €47,500, Montblanc, Graben 15, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3330, montblanc.com
2. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €3,300, Salvatore Ferragamo, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2814, ferragamo.com
5. Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Volupté Shine lipstick, €34.95, Douglas, Kärntner Strasse 17, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 4241, yslbeauty.com
3. Mulberry wallet, €375, Mulberry, Seitzergasse 2-4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0976, mulberry.com Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 41
6. Pinko shoes, €384, Steffl, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 930560, pinko.com
PHOTOS: (4) JOERG WISCHMANN; (6) TOMMASO VECCHI
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BLUE AND KHAKI
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Combine a silk shirt, trainers and a backpack to look casual yet elegant
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1. Etro shirt, €550, Etro, Tuchlauben 5, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 1086, etro.com
4. Valentino clutch, €900, Valentino, Tuchlauben 5, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 53500 30100, valentino.com
2. Apple iPad Pro, from €899, Yoor, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 134-136, 1050 Vienna, +43 (0)1 961 0102, apple.com
5. Burberry backpack, €995, Burberry, Kohlmarkt 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2820, burberry.com
3. Triwa watch, €230, Halder, Reitschulgasse 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 5049, triwa.com
6. Moncler sunglasses, €200, Moncler, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0619, moncler.com
globalblue.com
7. Ermenegildo Zegna trainers, €475, Ermenegildo Zegna, Kohlmarkt 8-10, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0979, zegna.com
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SHOP WINDOW
A FINE SIGHT Berlin-based eyewear brand Mykita has opened its second Viennese store in the city’s historic centre, an area full of old-world charm. The boutique, which covers over 90 square metres, is located in a baroque palace, an exciting contrast to the brand’s
modern, urban aesthetic. Customers can choose from the entire range of Mykita collections, including the striking designer collaborations with Maison Margiela and Bernhard Willhelm. The Relaxed Vision Centre provides a comprehensive
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 41
service using equipment supplied by world-renowned optical instrument specialist Carl Zeiss. js Mykita, Herrengasse 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 1835, mykita.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 40
SHOP SU RVEY SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. SHOP, the definitive guide to global shopping, publishes over three million magazines covering over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.
Our unique expertise allows us to offer extensive knowledge on key trends, products, brands and boutiques, as well as important information on how to save money by shopping tax free. In addition, SHOP provides restaurant and hotel reviews and interviews with elite fashion designers as well as maps of key shopping areas and information on partner retailer locations. With all this and more, SHOP is the essential international shopping companion.
We value your opinion and would love to hear more about your favourite shopping destinations, your travelling habits and how you plan your shopping trips. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/survey or scan the QR code. • Russian and Chinese versions available.
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STEPPING OUT American footwear brand Red Wing Shoes opened its eighth European store in October last year. Vienna’s Neubau neighbourhood, lively and brimming with concept stores, cafés and restaurants, houses the new 100-square-metre space. Besides stocking the men’s Heritage collection and a newly launched line for women, the store provides advice on proper fit and boot care, information on leathers and construction, and a repair and resole service for worn footwear. An in-store coffee bar makes Red Wing Shoes a great place to pause for refreshment as you explore Neubau. rre Red Wing Shoes, Lerchenfelderstrasse 65, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 944 4297, redwingshoes.com
FRENCH STYLE Place Vendôme, one of the most elegant squares in Paris, is the main source of inspiration for French fashion house Louis Vuitton’s spring/ summer 2017 collection. The range examines the relationship between the city’s Left Bank and Right Bank, and draws on Parisian women’s innate sense of style. Its glamorous elements include jersey dresses, twists on the suit and T-shirts with prints of the 18th-century
stone heads that adorn the facades in place Vendôme, where Louis Vuitton has a flagship store. Pointed-toe boots in contrasting materials, such as the pictured style in gold and black (€1,550), are a chic finishing touch to the collection. grc Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 41
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 40
S H O P | 25
COMPLETELY CHARMING Jewellery brand Pandora has opened a second location on Vienna’s prestigious Mariahilfer Strasse, the largest shopping street in Austria. Famous for its signature charm bracelets, the Danish company is loved the world over for its hand-finished customisable jewellery. In keeping with Pandora’s trademark flagship concept, the new boutique presents an elegant backdrop to its delicate, feminine designs. The use of white lacquered wood and glass are a nod to its Scandinavian heritage, as are the clean lines and crisp lighting. Charms,
bracelets, necklaces, rings and more are available in sterling silver or 14-carat gold, decorated with everything from intricate carvings to precious gems. Look out for stock updates throughout the year to celebrate the changing of the seasons as well as annual events. If you’re looking for a special gift, this is the place to go. hl Pandora, Mariahilfer Strasse 76, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 522 2118, pandora.net
PHOTO: (TOP) SOPHIE KIRCHNER
GAME OF LOVE M’ama Non M’ama, the Italian for ‘he loves me, he loves me not’, is a traditional game of plucking petals one by one from a flower to determine whether a lover is true – and it is also the name of a popular Pomellato collection. The range includes elegant rings, earrings and bangles made with petite cabochon stones, in a variety of colours that represent different emotions. The globalblue.com
pieces, which are made of rose gold paired with a coloured stone, are small and delicate so that several can be worn together. rre
Pomellato, Tuchlaubenhof 7A, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 905 2324, pomellato.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 40
26 | F E AT U R E S
Meet Austria’s Jewellery Masters 42 49
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Above: the AE Köchert boutique on prestigious Neuer Markt
PHOTO: COURTESY OF A.E.KÖCHERT/CHRISTOPH PANZER
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Austria’s jewellery scene features a host of master jewellers, showcasing a perfect blend of classic heritage styles and contemporary innovation. Emma Johnson seeks out the country’s most exciting names to know
28 | F E AT U R E S
brand in 1895 in the Tyrolean town of Wattens. Swarovski invented a cutting and polishing machine that led to the brand’s worldwide reputation for creating crystals of perfect clarity. Around the same time, a group of artists and designers in Vienna, including Gustav Klimt, were embracing the emerging art nouveau trend, which saw a move away from the intricate, elaborate designs of the early part of the century in favour of cleaner, sharper lines. Austria quickly became the rhinestone capital of the world, meeting a demand created by the popularisation of costume jewellery, alongside a trend for striking pieces coming in from Paris, such as Chanel’s designs in the 1920s. Swarovski has maintained its status as an integral part of the Austrian jewellery scene. It has collaborated with everyone from Christian Dior – creating the brand’s renowned Aurora Borealis crystals, which have a striking opalescent effect – to Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Zaha Hadid. Swarovski jewellery has appeared in films including Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Skyfall, as well as the TV series Downton Abbey, and been worn by many famous names, from actress Marilyn Monroe to singer Beyoncé. A Swarovski crystalencrusted star even graces the top of the Rockefeller Centre’s Christmas tree
Above (from top): Swarovski’s founder Daniel Swarovski, pictured in 1892; the brand’s Gisele earrings and Gaia ring; the Vienna flagship
PHOTOS: (MIDDLE BOTH) COURTESY OF SWAROVSKI; (BOTTOM) COURTESY OF SWAROVSKI/MICHAEL KAMMETER
‘Austrian jewellery is renowned for its craftsmanship, love of detail, celebration of regional traditions, creativity, and the courage to try new things,’ says Friedrich Wille, chief executive officer of Frey Wille, known since 1951 for beautiful enamel jewellery made in Vienna. It’s no wonder that such variety is available, given Austria’s bejewelled history, which dates back to the 1800s when the country became established as a centre for glass artisans and jewellers. Notable Austrian craftsmen include Daniel Swarovski, who founded his eponymous
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PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) COURTESY OF A.E.KÖCHERT; (TOP RIGHT) COURTESY OF A.E.KÖCHERT/CHRISTOPH PANZER
It’s no wonder that such a variety of Austrian jewellery is available, given that the country’s history of expertise dates back to the 1800s each year in New York. The Vienna flagship store is an experience in itself. It features Swarovski’s stunning Crystal Forest design concept, realised with sparkling architectural installations which immerse customers in glittering light. As well as shopping the brand’s range, customers can also enjoy a glass of champagne at the first floor bar, or order a coffee at the pavement café. AE Köchert and Halder are two other notable Austrian heritage brands. AE Köchert was founded over 200 years ago in a small goldsmith’s workshop in the centre of Vienna. Renowned for Above (clockwise from top left): a contemporary piece from AE Köchert; interior of the jeweller’s Vienna boutique; a Halder craftsman at work
its artistic enamel work, AE Köchert supplied the Imperial Court and, in the 19th century, crafted a set of diamond stars for Empress Elisabeth of Austria; replicas are still available to buy today. Halder, established in 1895, is the place to go for specialist gold and silver work, as well as bespoke pieces. The brand is renowned for its traditional hunting designs and costume jewellery. All its pieces are still manufactured by hand at its Vienna workshop, and Halder prides itself on creating unique pieces for its customers. Frey Wille, a relative youngster at not yet 70 years old, also has much expertise to draw on. One of the leading names in fired enamel jewellery, its striking, colourful and
artistic pieces are produced in very limited runs at the brand’s original factory in the centre of Vienna. Run by Simone GrünbergerWille and her husband Friedrich, the privately owned company is central to the Austrian jewellery scene. Frey Wille’s stores showcase its European-style designs worldwide. The various collection concepts are based on wide-ranging topics from European and humanistic philosophy to nature and the diversity of cultural heritage, explains Friedrich Wille. From the initial idea to the finished product, each piece is the result of numerous sketches and hours of research into art history. ‘Every collection is unique,’ he says, ‘but all have one element in common: an enthusiasm for pure art.’
Above (clockwise from top left): The Ultimate Kiss Donna and Ultra bangles and Inspired by Portrait Adele Bloch-Bauer cufflinks; Nixe Luna Piena pendant; The Ultimate Kiss Helena jewellery watch, all from the Frey Wille Hommage à Gustav Klimt collection
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF FREY WILLE
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PHOTO: (TOP) THOMAS LEDL CC BY-SA 4.0
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The brand regularly presents collections dedicated to the style and work of specific artists, including Monet and Klimt, or to a period of time, such as the Pharaoh Egypt and Passionate Russia ranges. It also features contemporary artists. The brand’s recent Hommage à Gustav Klimt collection is especially striking and was inspired by the artist’s famous masterpiece The Kiss. ‘It is a pure and powerful tribute to love itself,’ says Wille. ‘It puts the union of two souls centre stage.’ The collection includes a watch, bracelets, pendants and rings, and is the perfect tribute to one of Austria’s most important artists. No overview of Austrian jewellers would be complete without Schullin, one of the most dynamic and interesting
Traditional or modern, Austria’s jewellery designs shine out jewellery companies in Vienna, and winner of an Austrian State Prize for fine jewellery. The boutique is situated on the luxury Kohlmarkt shopping street, in a building designed by architect Hans Hollein, and its beautiful art decostyle interior contrasts with the brand’s contemporary approach to design.
Founder Herbert Schullin is committed to encouraging Austrian design and works with young graduates from Vienna’s university of applied arts to create modern pieces with a classic feel. From the truly traditional to the supremely modern, Austria’s jewellery designs are sure to add some sparkle to your time in Vienna
Above (from top): Schullin’s Kohlmarkt boutique, designed by architect Hans Hollein; a spring/summer 2017 piece from New One by Schullin, the hip, affordable sister line to the brand’s more classical range
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RAISING THE BAR
Vienna’s central area is compact enough to be explored on foot, so why not make the most of the warm summer evenings with a stroll between some of the city’s best bars? There is something for everyone in the Austrian capital, from simple aperitifs to extravagant cocktails. Local beers and wines should not be missed, and there is also a wide range of delicious soft drinks available, from firm favourites to surprising inventions. The city’s best bars stand out for their charming decor and welcoming atmosphere as much as their drinks menus. Vienna is a stylish city and its best-loved bars offer everything from 19th-century grandeur to specially commissioned contemporary art. Start by taking in the impressive cityscape from a rooftop venue and round out the evening with a nightcap somewhere cosy. globalblue.com
PHOTO: RAFAELA PROELL
Vienna’s best bars lead the way with inventive drinks menus, luxurious interiors and captivating ambience, says Hannah Lewis
DAS LO F T Luxurious Das Loft offers great food and drink in the heart of Vienna, with 360-degree views across the city, and is a favourite haunt of discerning visitors and locals alike. The striking modern venue, which was designed by noted French architect Jean Nouvel, overlooks Vienna’s historic old town, allowing diners to experience both the classic and the contemporary character of the city at once. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the space functions as a restaurant in the daytime and in the evening is transformed into a bustling bar with live music and world-class cocktails. After dark, the beautiful celling painting by artist Pipilotti Rist seems to stretch out into the night sky itself. Das Loft, Sofitel, Praterstrasse 1, 1020 Vienna, +43 (0)1 90616 8110, dasloftwien.at
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CAFÉ CENTRAL
As the name suggests, Café Central is not technically a bar but a café, and is perhaps best known for its range of luxury Austrian coffees and its amazing array of cakes, pastries and desserts, all baked daily in house. However, this remarkable 19th-century building is open until 10pm and offers an exceptional setting in which to enjoy an evening drink or two. Few venues in Vienna can offer such a sense of luxury and grandeur. Choose from a selection of fine wines, beers and spirits, or perhaps a refreshing ice tea or an Austrian herb lemonade. Café Central has long been a haunt of Vienna’s most well-heeled and influential citizens, and is a must-visit on any trip to the city. Café Central, Ecke Herrengasse/Strauchgasse, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 3763, cafecentral.wien
Previously known as the Mounier Bar and located on Kärntnerstrasse, First Floor was renamed when it relocated to Seitenstettengasse. It has managed to retain all the charm that had already made it a local favourite, helped by the beautiful furniture that was transported to the new location. The building is a great example of modernist Viennese architecture, and the interior is decorated in the style of a classic globalblue.com
American bar, with quirky details including a striking floral feature wall and a fish-free aquarium. The cocktail list features classic flavour combinations including a wide range of non-alcoholic options. Open until 4am, this is the perfect place to finish your evening. First Floor, Seitenstettengasse 5, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 1165, firstfloorbar.at
PHOTOS (FROM TOP): MICHAEL RZEPA; BLENDPUNKT OG
FI RST FLO O R
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AT M O S P H E R E R O O F T O P B A R
The eighth-storey location of Atmosphere Rooftop Bar atop the Ritz-Carlton Vienna offers incredible views across the Austrian capital. The cocktail menu is extensive, with sections devoted to champagne cocktails, variations on gin and tonic, sharers, mocktails and more. Those served over crushed ice are perfect for warm weather; we recommend the Bramble, a mix of Tanqueray dry gin and blackberry liqueur with a dash of lime. As well as cocktails, a wide array of wines, beers, ciders and soft drinks is available. Pair your drink with one of the signature flatbreads, which come with a range of toppings – think locally sourced asparagus and ham, or camembert and truffle – then sit back and soak up the view. Atmosphere Rooftop Bar, Ritz-Carlton Vienna, Schubertring 5-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 31188, ritzcarlton.com
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) PHILIPP BLICKFANG PHOTOGRAPHY
TH E S I G N LO U N G E
Award-winning cocktail bar The Sign Lounge is acclaimed not only for its exciting drinks menu but also for its stylish, modern interiors, which contrast clean lines and contemporary light fittings with comfortable seating and warm wood elements. The cocktails are made using only the finest ingredients, which range from the classic to the unexpected – as do the finished drinks, which are designed as a ‘journey through
cocktail history’. Nothing is an afterthought here, which is particularly evident in the bar’s flair for presentation: beverages are served in a creative array of vessels, from classic glasses and tumblers to fish bowls and mini buckets. The Sign Lounge, Liechtensteinstrasse 104-106, 1090 Vienna, +43 664 964 3276, thesignlounge.at
PRIVATE AIRCRAFT CHARTER AND VIP & BUSINESS SERVICES exclusive for you at Vienna Airport
GENERAL AVIATION & VIP SERVICES VIENNA AIRCRAFT HANDLING GMBH Steinriegelweg, Object 140 1300 Vienna Airport Tel.: +43 1 7007 22204 / 24h Hotline Fax: +43 1 7007 22464 E-Mail: vah@viennaairport.com www.viennaaircrafthandling.at
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GUIDE
PHOTO: © AUSTRIAN NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE/POPP HACKNER
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Vienna with helpful maps of the main shopping areas, which show key visitor attractions as well as where to find the city’s must-visit boutiques. For further helpful hints from our well-travelled team and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/vienna.
Above: view over Vienna from the Burgtheater, Austria’s national theatre
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B U R Hoermanseder Marina Find this Austrian designer’s must-buy bags at the Amicis womenswear boutique. Amicis, Tuchlauben 11, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 2636, marinahoermanseder.com
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at this store will see you exploring the city in style. Red Wing Shoes, Lerchenfelderstrasse 65, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 944 4297, redwingshoes.com
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AE Köchert For unusual and impeccably crafted SE jewellery, S G A S look no further. JOSEF AE Köchert, Neuer Markt E15, 1010 Vienna, S GAS S O N512 5828, +43T R (0)1 AU T koechert.com
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FEATURED ON PAGE 32
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TRANSLATIONS
美文翻译 26: Meet Austria’s Jewellery Masters 璀璨珠宝
为满足伴 随 时装 珠 宝 的风 行而 产生 的需 求，同 时在 从 巴黎 传来 的惊 艳 单 品 — — 例如 1920年 代 的 香 奈儿设 计 — — 在 珠 宝 热 潮 的 推动下，奥 地 利 迅 速 成 为了世界 莱 茵 石之 都。作为奥 地 利 珠 宝界不 可分 割 的一 部 分，施 华 洛世 奇 一直 地位 稳固。施 华 洛世
奥 地 利 珠 宝界不乏能 工巧 匠，完 美 糅 合古典风 格与 时
奇和 众多品牌强 强联 手，比如 从古驰（Gucci）、伊
尚创 新。与 Emma Johnson一 同探 寻最 激 动人心的奥
夫·圣罗兰（ Yves Saint Laurent）到 Zaha Hadid；
地 利 珠 宝品牌 吧
更与 迪奥（Christian Dior）联 袂 打造了著名的
Aurora Boreali水 晶，通体 乳白色，剔 透 非凡，不 域传 统、丰富 的创 意以及尝新 的勇气，奥 地 利 珠 宝闻
可 方 物。 施 华 洛世 奇 珠 宝曾在《蒂 芙 尼 的早 餐》
名遐 迩。”Frey Wille首席 执 行官 Friedrich Wille说
（ Breakfast at Tiffany’s）和《 007之天幕 坠落 》
道。自1951年 起，该品牌 便 以维也 纳制 造 的美丽 珐 琅
（ Skyfall）等影片中惊 艳 露面，还在 电视 剧《唐 顿
珠 宝而 驰 名。 璀 璨 的奥 地 利 珠 宝史可追 溯 至 19世 纪 初，当时众
庄园》（ Downton Abbey）中闪亮 登场。从 演员 玛丽 莲·梦露（ Marilyn Monroe）到 歌手 碧昂斯
多玻 璃 匠与珠 宝商云 集 此 地。有鉴于此，奥 地 利出产如
（ Beyoncé）等众多名流 都 对 它青 睐有 加。此外，一
此 丰富 的珠 宝品类便 不足为 怪了。Daniel Swarovski
颗 施 华 洛世 奇水 晶 之 星每 年 都 会 闪亮 装 点 纽 约 洛克
便 是其中最 著名的奥 地 利 工 匠之一，他于 1895年 在瓦
菲 勒中心（ Rockefeller Centre）的圣 诞 树 端。
腾 斯 的蒂罗尔镇创 立了同名品牌。Swarovski发明了一
造 访 维也 纳 的 施 华 洛世 奇 旗 舰 店 本身就 是 一次
种 切 割 抛 光 机，用以打磨 极 致 清 透 的水 晶产品，令 该
独 特 的体 验。店内完 美 呈现 水 晶 森 林 设 计 理 念，闪
品牌 享 誉 全 球。几乎同一 时期，Gustav Klimt等 一 众
烁 的建 筑 装 置令 顾客 沉 浸 于 璀 璨 光 芒之中。在 选购
维也 纳 艺 术 家 和 设 计 师 积 极 投 入 到方兴未艾 的新 艺 术
品牌系列产品的同时，您 还能到一楼 酒 吧畅 饮 香 槟，
运 动中，抛 弃了 19世 纪 早 期 精 细 而繁 复 的设 计，转而
或于路 边 茶座 品尝 咖 啡。
追求更 为清 晰、锐 利 的线 条。 globalblue.com
AE Köchert 和 Halder也 是两家 著名的奥 地 利
PHOTO: COURTESY OF A.E.KÖCHERT/CHRISTOPH PANZER
“凭 着 精 湛 的手工 匠艺、用心的细 节 雕 琢、辉 煌 的地
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传 统 老 牌。AE Köchert 诞 生于 维也 纳 市中心的一家
如出品埃 及法老（ Pharaoh Egypt）和 俄 罗斯魅力
小 金 器 作 坊，迄 今已有 200多年 的历史。该品牌以极
（ Passionate Russia）系列。该品牌 也会与当代艺 术
具艺 术 感 的珐 琅 作品而 著 称，特 供于皇 家宫廷。19
家合作，新 近 推 出的 Hommage à Gustav Klimt系列
世 纪 时，AE Köchert曾为奥 地 利 伊丽 莎白女皇 手工
便尤为引人注目。作品灵 感来自同名 艺 术 家杰 作《吻》
制 作了一 组钻石星饰，其复制品 仍可买到。Halder
（ The Kiss）。“这是向爱本身作出的纯 粹 而 有力的
则 问世 于 1895年，您可以在 他 家物 色专业制 作 的金
致 敬， ”Wille表 示， “ 它 将两个相 互 联 结 的灵魂 置 于 舞
银制品及 定制 饰品。该品牌因传 统 的狩 猎 设 计及 时
台中央。”该系列 包 括腕 表、手 镯、吊坠和 戒 指，是向
装 珠 宝而 闻名，全 线 产品至今 仍 在其 维也 纳 作 坊中
奥 地 利 最 重要 艺 术 家的完 美 致 敬。
手工制 造。为顾客创 造 独 一 无二的单 品是 Halder的 至 高 荣 耀。 品牌 Frey Wille相 对年 轻，虽 只有不到 70年 的
纵 观 奥 地 利 各 家 珠 宝商，若 无 Schullin便 不 算完 整。Schullin是 维也 纳 最具 活力与趣 味 的珠 宝品牌 之 一，曾荣 获 奥 地 利 精 美 珠 宝国家奖。其 精品店坐落 在
历史，却 也 积 累了丰富 的专业 经验。作为烧制 珐 琅 珠
Kohlmarkt 奢 侈 品购 物 街，位于 建 筑 师 Hans Hollein
宝界 的领 先品牌，其引人注目、色 彩 缤 纷、艺 术 性极
设 计 的大楼内。室内装 潢 采用优 美 的装 饰 派艺 术风
强 的单 品在 维也 纳 市中心的原创 工 厂内制 造，产量
格，与该品牌 的现代 设 计手法 形成了鲜 明对 比。品牌
十分有 限。这 家 私 人 企 业由 Simone Grünberger-
创 始 人 Herbert Schullin 鼓 励 维也 纳应用 艺 术 大 学 的
Wille与丈 夫 Friedrich一 同经 营，在 奥 地 利 珠 宝界居
年 轻毕业 生，致力于弘扬 奥 地 利 设 计与作品，创 造富
于核心地位，其店内的欧 式 设 计 吸引着全 世界 的顾
有经 典气 息的摩登 作品。
客。Friedrich Wille解 释 说，从 欧 洲、人 文 主义哲学 到大自然及 文化 遗 产 的多样 性，该品牌 丰富 的设 计概
从 极 致传 统 到 锐 意 摩登，奥 地 利 珠 宝设 计 定能 让 您 的维也 纳 之 旅 熠熠生 辉。
念是 从 形 形色色 的主 题 衍生而来。从初 始 理 念 到最 终成 品，每 件产品的背后 都是 海量 的草 图，以及 无数 个小 时的 艺 术史研 究。“每 个系列 都 独 一 无二， ”他 表
41: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
示， “ 但它们 都 具 备同一 个 特点：热 爱 纯 粹 艺 术。”
畅购全 球，尊 享退 税
该品牌会定 期 推 出系列 新 作，时而从莫 奈 （ Monet）和 克 林 姆 特（ Klimt）等 艺 术 家的风 格与
当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多万家 商店消费 时，
作品中取 经，时而向某 个 特定 历史 时期 致 敬— — 例
环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服务（Global Blue Tax Free
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PHOTO: COURTESY OF FREY WILLE
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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: Meet Austria’s Jewellery Masters Австрийские ювелиры Эмма Джонсон рассказывает о самых интересных ювелирах Австрии, которые преуспевают и в классике, и в современном дизайне
PHOTO: COURTESY OF AE KÖCHERT/CHRISTOPH PANZER
«Австрийские ювелиры славятся искусностью своего мастерства, любовью к деталям, вниманием к национальным традициям, творческим подходом и интересом ко всему новому», – перечисляет Фридрих Вилле – исполнительный директор компании Frey Wille, которая с 1951 году создает в Вене
великолепные эмалированные украшения. Столь глубокое погружение в искусство не кажется удивительным, если иметь в виду богатую ювелирную историю Австрии. В самом начале 19 века страна стала центром притяжения стеклодувов и ювелиров. Одним из самых известных австрийских мастеров можно назвать Даниэля Сваровски, который в 1895 году в тирольском городе Ваттенсе основал компанию под своей фамилией. Он изобрел машины для огранки и полировки камней, на которых добился идеальной чистоты кристаллов. Вскоре они принесли мировую славу его компании. Примерно в то же время в Вене группа художников и дизайнеров, среди которых был и Густав Климт, осваивала зарождающееся модернистское течение. В рамках своих
globalblue.com
PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): COURTESY OF A E KÖCHERT; (RIGHT & BOTTOM) COURTESY OF SWAROVSKI
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экспериментов они переключали внимание с изощренных и тщательно проработанных композиций, характерных для начала 19 века, на более чистые и ясные силуэты. Вскоре Австрия стала мировым центром искусственных бриллиантов, поскольку она была способна удовлетворить растущий спрос на костюмную бижутерию. Он шел рука об руку с трендом на смелые украшения, который набирал силу в Париже, например, в моделях Chanel 1920х. Swarovski до сих пор остается существенной частью ювелирного мира Австрии. Растет и количество совместных проектов: от Christian Dior, для которого он создал знаменитые переливающиеся кристаллы Aurora Borealis, до Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent и Захи Хадид. Украшения Swarovski появлялись в известных фильмах, например, «Завтрак у Тиффани» и «Скайфолл», в сериале «Аббатство Даунтон», их носили многие знаменитости, в том числе актриса Мерилин Монро и певица Бейонсе. Более того, кристаллы Swarovski украшают звезду, венчающую рождественскую елку возле Рокфеллер-центра в Нью-Йорке. Посещение флагманского магазина Swarovski в Вене само по себе будет приключением. Он оформлен в соответствии с фирменной концепцией Crystal Forest: среди сияющих архитектурных инсталляций посетитель оказывается внутри сверкающего света. Здесь можно не только исследовать коллекции бренда, но и порадовать себя бокалом шампанского или чашкой кофе.
AE Köchert и Halder – еще два примечательных австрийских бренда с большой историей. AE Köchert был основан более 200 лет назад в небольшой ювелирной мастерской, которая располагалась в центре Вены, и вскоре стал поставщиком императорского двора. Наибольшую славу ему принесли украшения с художественными эмалями. А в 19 веке AE Köchert преподнес императрице Австрии Елизавете набор бриллиантовых звезд, аналог которого можно заказать до сих пор. Компания Halder, основанная в 1895 году, специализируется на золоте и серебре, а также работает по индивидуальному заказу. Особую славу этому ювелиру принесли традиционные вещи и костюмные украшения. Все произведения по-прежнему создаются вручную в собственных венских мастерских, и уникальность украшений остается предметом гордости Halder.
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представляет новая коллекция Hommage à Gustav Klimt, вдохновленная знаменитым шедевром Климта «Поцелуй»: «àто мощное, чистое посвящение великой любви и союзу двух любящих душ», – говорит Вилле. Коллекция состоит из часов, браслетов, подвесок и колец и демонстрирует глубочайшее уважение одному из самых значительных художников Австрии. Обзор австрийских ювелиров не будет полным без упоминания Schullin – одной из самых активных ювелирных компаний в Вене и обладательницы Австрийской государственной премии за изысканное ювелирное искусство. Бутик Schullin расположен на престижной торговой улице Kohlmarkt в здании, построенном по проекту архитектора Ханса Холляйна. Чудесный интерьер в стиле ар-деко составляет эффектный контраст современному подходу бренда к дизайну. Основатель компании Герберт Шуллин заинтересован в развитии австрийского дизайна и привлекает выпускников венского университета прикладных искусств к работе над современными украшениями с классическими акцентами. И традиционные, и самые современные – австрийские украшения непременно придадут особенный блеск вашему путешествию в Вену.
PHOTO: COURTESY OF FREY WILLE
На этом фоне Frey Wille – относительно юный бренд: ему еще нет и 70 лет, но уже достаточно опыта, на который можно опереться. Яркие и артистичные украшения с эмалью выпускаются очень ограниченными сериями на собственной фабрике в центре Вены. Frey Wille остается частным предприятием под управлением Симоне Грюнбергер-Вилле и ее мужа Фридриха и занимает центральное положение на ювелирной карте Австрии. По всему миру магазины Frey Wille демонстрируют произведения в европейском стиле: Фридрих Вилле объясняет, что коллекции основываются на самых разных концепциях, будь то европейская гуманистическая философия, природа или богатство культурного наследия. Путь от первоначальной идеи до готового украшения проходит через многочисленные наброски и исследования в области истории искусств. «Каждая коллекция уникальна, – подчеркивает он. – Но кое-что их объединяет: страсть к чистому искусству». Часто компания посвящает коллекции определенному стилю, произведению значимого художника, например, Моне и Климта, или эпохе, как в сериях Pharaoh Egypt и Passionate Russia. Современные художники также попадают в поле зрения марки. Особый интерес
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PHOTO: COURTESY OF SWAROVSKI/MICHAEL KAMMETER
الثقافي ،على ح ّد قول .Friedrich Willeتجدر اإلشارة إلى أنّه منذ والدة الفكرة الرئيسيّة للقطعة حتّى إنجاز المنتج كل قطعة نتاج عدّة رسومات وساعات من النهائي ،تشكّل ّ "كل مجموعة فريدة البحث في تاريخ الف ّن .يضيف ّ :Wille بح ّد ذاتها لكن ث ّمة عنصر جامع وهو الحماس للف ّن البحت". تقدّم العالمة دوريّاً مجموعات مستوحاة من أساليب وأعمال ف ّنانين محدّدين ،بمن فيهم Monetو Klimtأو من حقبة زمنيّة معيّنة على سبيل مجموعتي Pharaoh Egypt وRussia .Passionateكما تعرض أعمال ف ّنانين معاصرين .مجموعتها األخيرة Hommage à Gustav Klimtروعة من الجمال ِ استوحيت من تحفة الف ّنان الشهيرة "القبلة" .The Kiss وقد يقول Willeفي هذا الصدد" :إنّها إشارة واضحة وقويّة إلى الحب بح ّد ذاته .تسلّط الضوء على اتّحاد رو َحين ".تشمل ّ المجموعة ساعة وأساور وحلياً وخواتم وتشكّل تحيّة مثاليّة ألح ّد ف ّناني النمسا األبرز على اإلطالق .الواقع أنّه ال يمكن الحديث عن صائغي المجوهرات النمساويّين من دون ذكر .Schullinإنّها من أكثر الشركات ديناميكيّ ًة وإثار ًة لالهتمام في مجال المجوهرات في فيينا وحائزة جائزة Austrian State Prizeللمجوهرات الفاخرة .يقع متجرها في شارع التس ّوق الفاخر Kohlmarktفي مبنى من تصميم المهندس Hans Holleinويتناقض ديكوره الداخلي الجميل ذو أسلوب األرت ديكو مع مقاربة العالمة العصريّة إلى التصميم. المؤسس Herbert Schullinملتزم تجدر اإلشارة إلى أ ّن ّ بتشجيع التصميم النمساوي ويعمل مع خ ّريجين يافعين في جامعة فيينا للفنون التطبيقيّة البتكار قطعٍ عصريّة ذي طابعٍ كالسيكي. ّ حق إلى الفائقة العصريّة، من المجوهرات التقليديّة عن ّ ال ّ شك أ ّن تصاميم مجوهرات النمسا ستضفي بريقاً إلى إقامتك في فيينا.
When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 41
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة Meet Austria’s Jewellery Masters : 26
تع ّرف إلى ألمع األسماء النمساويّة
يض ّم قطاع المجوهرات في النمسا باقة من كبار الصائغين الذين يمزجون ببر ٍ اعة األساليب الكالسيكيّة العريقة باالبتكار المعاصر .تشير Emma Johnsonإلى أبرز األسماء الجديرة بالذكر في البالد يقول ،Friedrich Willeالمدير التنفيذي لعالمة Frey Willeالرائدة بصناعة المجوهرات المطليّة بالمينا في فيينا منذ سنة " :1951تشتهر المجوهرات النمساويّة بالمهارة وحب التفاصيل والمحافظة على التقاليد واالبتكار والجرأة ّ على تجربة أمور جديدة". لكن ال عجب في توافر كل هذه الميزات نظرا ً لتاريخ النمسا الحافل بالمجوهرات الذي يعود إلى القرن التاسع عشر حين اعتُبرت البالد مركزا ً لصانعي الزجاج وصائغي المجوهرات .من الحرفيّين النمساويين المرموقين Daniel Swarovskiالذي أٍّ ّسس عالمته التي تحمل إسمه سنة 1895في بلدة Wattensفي والية .Tyrolابتكر Swarovskiآلة تقطيعٍ وتلميع أكسبت العالمة شهرة عالميّة في ابتكار بلّورات فائقة النقاء .وفي الفترة نفسها تقريباً ،انجرفت مجموعة من الف ّنانين والمص ّممين في فيينا، بمن فيهم ،Gustav Klimtمع موجة األرت نوفو الصاعدة وتميّزت باالبتعاد عن التصاميم المعقّدة المتكلّفة التي سادت لتحل محلّها الخطوط األكثر نضار ًة ودقّة ً. في بداية القرن ّ ما لبثت أن أصبحت النمسا عاصم ًة عالميّة لألحجار الزائفة، ملبّي ًة الطلب المتزايد عليها إثر رواج األكسسوارات ومتماشي ًة مع موضة القطع الملفتة من باريس على سبيل تصميم Chanelفي العشرينات .وقد حافظت Swarovskiعلى مكانتها كجز ٍء ال يتج ّزأ من قطاع المجوهرات النمساويّة. تعاونت مع الجميع ،من Christian Diorالذي ابتكرت معه بلّورات Aurora Borealisالشهيرة المميّزة ببريقها الملفت ،إلى Gucciو Yves Saint Laurentو.Zaha Hadid كما ظهرت مجوهرات Swarovskiفي أفالم بما فيها Breakfast at Tiffany’sو Skyfallوفي المسلسل التلفزيوني Downtown Abbeyوتزيّن بها عدّة مشاهير، من الممثّلة Marilyn Monroeإلى المغ ّنية .Beyoncé مرصعة ببلورات Swarovski تجدر اإلشارة إلى أ ّن نجمة ّ تكلّل رأس شجرة الميالد في مبنى Rockfeller Centre في نيويورك كل سنة. متجر العالمة الرئيسي في فيينا هو تجربة بح ّد ذاته. يتميّز بمفهوم التصميم الساحر Crystal Forestالمتمثّل بعناصر هندسيّة متأللئة تغمر الزبائن بنو ٍر ب ّراق .باإلضافة إلى التس ّوق ،يمكن الزبائن احتساء كأس من الشمبانيا في الحانة في الطابق األ ّول أو طلب القهوة في مقهى الرصيف. من العالمات النمساويّة العريقة األخرى
تأسست األولى منذ ما يزيد AE KÖchertوّ .Halder عن 200سنة في مشغلٍ صغير للذهب وسط فيينا .تشتهر بقطعها الفنيّة المطليّة بالمينا وقد كانت من مز ّودي البالط الملكي .وفي القرن التاسع عشر ،ابتكرت المبراطورة النمسا Elisabethمجموعة من النجوم الماسيّة ،يمكن شراء تأسست سنة نسخ عنها حتّى يومنا هذا .أ ّما Halderالتي ّ ،1895فهي المكان الذي يجدر زيارته لشراء قطعٍ مبتكرة من الذهب والفضّ ة وأخرى مص ّممة بحسب الطلب .تشتهر العالمة بتصاميم الصيد التقليديّة وأكسسواراتها .ما زالت تص ّنع ّ كل قطعها في مشغلها في فيينا وتفتخر بابتكار قطعٍ فريدة من نوعها لزبائنها. لدى عالمة ،Frey Willeاليافعة نسبيّاً إذ لم تتجاوز السبعين سنة ،ما يكفي من الخبرة لتتألّق .إنّها من األسماء الرائدة في مجال المجوهرات المطليّة بالمينا ويتم إنتاج قطعها الفنيّة الجميلة الغنيّة باأللوان بكميّات محدودة للغاية في معمل العالمة الرئيسي وسط فيينا. يدير الزوجان Simone GrünbergerوFriedrich الخاصة التي تشكّل عنصرا ً أساس ّياً في Willeهذه الشركة ّ قطاع المجوهرات النمساويّة .تعرض متاجر Frey Wille كل أنحاء العالم .تقوم تصاميمها األوروبيّة األسلوب في ّ مفاهيم المجموعات المتن ّوعة على سلّة كبيرة من المواضيع، من الفلسفة األوروبيّة والبشريّة إلى الطبيعة وتن ّوع اإلرث
COLOURS OF SUMMER The light blue of this leather bucket bag and the intricate pink and fuchsia flowers that embellish it combine to suggest the Mediterranean in summer. Inspired by warm, colourful days and nights in the French Riviera, and happy memories connected to the sea and the
sun, Marina Hoermanseder’s spring/summer 2017 collection mixes floral prints and appliqué. The colour palette ranges from lighter shades of blue, baby pink and pastel orange to vibrant fuchsia and subtle grey. Feminine and elegant, the collection includes A-line dresses and skirts, shirt dresses, polo tops, high-waisted shorts and textured bomber jackets.
Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 41
The Viennese-born designer launched her womenswear and accessories collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and Fashion Scout in London in 2014. fm Marina Hoermanseder Kasper bag, €649, Amicis, Tuchlauben 11, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 2636, marinahoermanseder.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 40
PHOTO: © ESHOT BERLIN
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