SHOP Austria SS14

FASHION, LIFESTYLE AND DESIGNER BRANDS:

Dornbirn (Messepark), Gerasdorf-Vienna (G3 Shopping Resort), Graz (Shoppingcity Seiersberg), Innsbruck (Kaufhaus Tyrol), Klagenfurt (City-Arkaden), Linz (Passage Linz), Pasching (PlusCity), Salzburg (Europark), Vienna (Donauzentrum), Vienna (Kaerntner Strasse 29), Vienna (Mariahilfer Str. 26-30), Voesendorf (SCS, Tor 4). www.peek-cloppenburg.com

Please note that not all brands are available at all stores.

WELCOME TO P&C!

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires ILLUSTRATION: pAUL x jOhNSON

Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

Welcome to Austria

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Austria has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at Vienna’s rising young design creatives (turn to page 24) and we introduce the high-profle global following that is reinforcing Austria’s style credentials (see our feature on page 30). As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 21. Visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com, for the very latest information. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Руководство Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers

Vilnius

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@GlobalBlue

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/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

If you are looking for a wide selection of Exquisite Timepieces and FIne jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces at 29 Wempe showrooms world-wide. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises, New York City and in Beijing. We look forward to your visit!

1010 Wien Kärntner Straße 41 Tel. 01.512 33 22

HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK BEIJING WEMPE.COM We accept all credit cards.

Maxwell Holyoke-Hirsch The cover illustration for this season’s SHOP Austria, created by Maxwell Holyoke-Hirsch, shows a modern Vienna emerging from the traditional city, a concept explored in our feature about the capital’s young design creatives on page 24. Maxwell’s graphic style and thoughtful approach is elegant and striking; he has previously created illustrations for clients that include GQ, The New Yorker and The Washington Post. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PhOTO: © mARcUS DAweS

ILLUSTRATION: mAxweLL hOLyOke-hIRSch

Contributors

Fiona McKenzie Johnston Fiona McKenzie Johnston visits studios, shoots, galleries and boutiques to fle her copy on the best of fashion and design for various of the international Vogue magazines. For this edition of SHOP, she reports on the afcionados around the world who make Austrian fashion a force to be reckoned with. globalblue.com

Harveen Ghattaure Harveen Ghattaure, who graduated in graphic design from the University of Derby, has been SHOP’s artworking assistant since 2011. When she’s not at work, she can often be found sweating it out in a Bikram yoga class or reading Batman comics. She adores British brand All Saints and wants to own her own stables one day.

SORELLE

RAMONDA

Internationale Designer-Mode im TOP SHOP-IM-SHOP

Kollektionen führender, internationaler Designer für die ganze Familie. High quality fashion for women, men and children. мода ведущих интернациональных дезайнеров для вей семьи.

Wöllersdorf

Sattledt

GRAZ

bei Wiener Neustadt auf über 11.000m2 A- 2752 Wöllersdorf Römerstraße 3-9 Tel. +43 (0)2622 - 42 444

auf über 6.000m2 A- 4642 Sattledt Welser Straße 10-12 Tel. +43 (0)7244 - 8383

auf über 5.000m2 8054 Graz Center West Weblinger Gürtel 25 Tel. +43 (0)316 - 297 000

www.sorelleramonda.at a.a

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Maxwell Holyoke-Hirsch Contributor Fiona McKenzie Johnston Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks. The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, nongovernmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese commercial editor Xue Cheng Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shin Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E AU S T R I A Country manager Gerd Gfrerer Marketing manager Danielle Willert Marketing executive Daniela Puntschart-Infeld Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Key account managers Ursula Bergsleithner, Felix Camondo, Petra Singer Account managers Mario Kronsteiner, Wolfgang Gutbrunner, Harald Hölzl, Christian Seelos, Thomas Schnötzinger Global Blue Austria, Zetschegasse 17, A-1230 Vienna, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com

SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

MOMENTS OF WONDER SPARKLING SHOPPING EXPERIENCES

Swarovski Kristallwelten Wattens Swarovski Innsbruck Swarovski Wien

www.swarovski.com/kristallwelten www.swarovski.com/innsbruck www.swarovski.com/wien

Contents p.22

P ro d u c t s 12 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Austria this season 14 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

e x Pe r I e Nce 36 Café Society Austrian café culture is one of the world’s fnest, with venues ranging from opulent traditional cafés to modern designer destinations, writes Verity Hogan

N ews 18 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Austria 20 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Gu I de 41 Maps and guides to Austria’s top shops and destinations 74 My City Ida steixner and Lena Krampf, the designers behind the Meshit fashion label, share their Vienna recommendations

F e At u r e s 24 Cover Story: Future Focus Vienna’s design community is rapidly moving into the 21st century as a new set of avant-garde young creatives make their mark. sally McIlhone reports 30 Austria’s Fashion Aristocrats Austria’s style credentials, established centuries ago, remain as infuential and relevant as ever, says Fiona McKenzie Johnston Above: We Bandits store, Vienna

esseNtIA Ls 76 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r A N s L At I o N s 79 Русский 86 中文 96 PostcA r d 98 sHoP writes home about the Lobmeyr glass company

VIENNA

AM GRABEN 26

SALZBURG

ALTER MARKT 5

ESCADA.COM

+43 1 5337090 +43 662 849612

12 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

MIRROR IMAGE Making mirrors out of tableware is certainly unusual – in the hands of Austrian interior designer Christine Hechinger the mix becomes a highly desirable combination. Trained in Austria, Hechinger gained experience at some of Germany’s foremost design companies before launching her own brand in 2011. The designer’s Mira collection uses porcelain plates, as well as crystal Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 76

and metal tableware, and transforms each item into a beautiful home decoration with the addition of hand-cut mirrors. Each piece is handmade and unique. We love Hechinger’s clever re-imagining of everyday household items and recommend combining several on one wall for a stunning efect. irs Christine Hechinger Mira decorative plates, from €35, Feinheiten, Pfarrgasse 8, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 908026, christine-hechinger.com

Our stores in the City Center: Graben 17, 1010 Wien, Kärntner Straße 37, 1010 Wien Rotenturmstraße 5-9, 1010 Wien, Rotenturmstraße 27, 1010 Wien Mariahilfer Strasse 32, 1070 Wien, Mariahilfer Strasse 109, 1070 Wien

14 | P RO D U C T S

BRIGHT FUTURE Combine bold colours for dramatic efect

1. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, £540, Salvatore Ferragamo, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2814, ferragamo.com 2. Levi’s jacket, €109.95, Levi’s, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 29-35, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 890087, levi.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 76

3. Bally bag, €795, Bally, Graben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 0550, bally.com 4. Hermès gloves, €730, Hermès, Alter Markt 11, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 8466 2126, hermes.com

PHOTO: (3) STefanO Saccani

16 | P RO D U C T S

INTO THE BLUE Crisp and cool: choose classic blue

1. Swarovski Slake bracelet, €69, Swarovski, Hauptplatz 11, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 824852, swarovski.com 2. United Nude Alice Hi shoes, €189, United Nude, Herrengasse 6-8, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 907 2182, unitednude.at

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 76

3. Hugo Boss handbag, €529, Hugo Boss, Kärntner Strasse 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 1161, hugoboss.com 4. Escada dress, €580, Escada, Alter Markt 5, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 849612, escada.com

S H O P | 17

LOOK FOR LILAC Pastels are the hue of the season and lilac is leading the trend 1

PHOTOS: (1 & 4) PackSHOTfacTOry; (2) LB PrOducTiOn/LaurenT Bremaud

1. Cos dress, €99, Cos, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 31, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 551052, cosstores.com 2. Louis Vuitton Damier Aquarelle bandeau, €110, Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com

globalblue.com

3. Miu Miu shoes, €550, Miu Miu, Tuchlauben 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3053, miumiu.com 4. Vivienne Westwood bag, price on request, Vivienne Westwood, Tuchlauben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 0904, viviennewestwood.co.uk

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Shop Window

HOME COMFORTS Lichterloh specialises in furniture from the 20th century, focusing on the period from the 1920s to the 1970s. Its spacious showroom makes it easy to browse the huge variety of designer furniture and homeware accessories on ofer. Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 76

Showcasing well-known designers alongside niche names, Lichterloh manages to source pieces that are both classic and contemporary. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re left wanting more, Lichterloh also produces its own stylish range of furniture. irs Lichterloh, Gumpendorferstrasse 15-17, 1060 Vienna, +43 (0)1 586 0520, lichterloh.com * for map go to page 50

No.12

Opera

Kärntner Straße

St. Stephan

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MOVING MUSIC Danish audio expert Bang & Olufsen is known internationally for its sound systems, and its passion for good sound quality and design isn’t limited to headphones and at-home systems, as illustrated by the beautiful and functional B&O Play Beolit 12 Airplay wireless speaker. This minimalist aluminium creation, with a selection of metal fnishes and Italian fullgrain leather carry strap, ofers unrivalled sound performance and lives up to the sleek Danish style aesthetic you would expect. rp

Bang & Olufsen, Pradler Strasse 35, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 393610, bang-olufsen.com

SPRING BEAUTY Chanel has embraced the joys of spring with its latest beauty collection. Inspired by music, Notes de Printemps features a soft palette of pinks, reds and violets to create a perfect freshfaced look for spring. Highlights of the range include the Chamade crème blush and the electric pink Fougueuse lipstick. Chanel’s nail polishes are a cult item each season and this collection is no exception. There’s a trio of colours to choose from: Charivari, a moody mauve; the zingy red of Tapage; or the instantly iconic Ballerina, a soft pink. ib Douglas, Shoppingcity Seiersberg, Seiersberg 1-9, 8055 Seiersberg, +43 (0)316 296925, chanel.com Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 76

S H O P | 21

SHOP THE WORLD

AVANT-GARDE STYLE A haven for fans of young and emerging designers, the Wood Wood store on Vienna’s Zollergasse is one of seven Wood Wood locations across Europe. These multibrand boutiques celebrate the best in avant-garde designs, embracing everything from burgeoning streetwear brands to established labels known for their original aesthetics. As well as Henrik Vibskov, Comme des Garçons, Opening Ceremony and many others, the Vienna store is also home to the brand’s own Wood Wood label, which ofers stunning clothing for both men and women. hl Wood Wood, Zollergasse 29, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 929 1218, woodwood.dk globalblue.com

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

22 | N E W S

GLOBAL STYLE Vienna boutique We Bandits sources its fashion fnds internationally, focusing on Korean and Scandinavian brands, priding itself on a unique selection and bringing labels to Vienna that can’t be found anywhere else in the city. This is not to say that the We Bandits team doesn’t appreciate local talent, and Viennese and Austrian oferings in the store range from handmade shoes to statement jewellery. hl We Bandits, Theobaldgasse 14, 1060 Vienna, webandits.tictail.com

FLORAL FANTASY Burberry Prorsum’s spring/ summer collection is flled with soft pastels and feminine detailing, and these adorable foral clutches are absolute must-haves. Soft and slouchy, they are artfully embellished with 3D fowers, one of the biggest trends of the season. As bright and summery as you could hope for, the range is so vast and so lovely it’s hard to make a choice. As with everything from British heritage brand Burberry, the craftsmanship is exquisite and the design is guaranteed to give maximum impact. hl Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 76

Burberry, Kohlmarkt 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2820, burberry.com * for map go to page 46

S H O P | 23

TIME TRAVEL The Montblanc TimeWalker World-Time Hemispheres watches are created with travellers in mind. They simultaneously display the time in 24 time zones, while the local time wherever the wearer is located is shown by the hands. The names of 24 cities, representing the 24 time zones, are written around the dial and a 24-hour disc indicates the hours at each location. The watch is available in a northern and a southern hemisphere version; each bears the names of the cities in that hemisphere. irs Montblanc, Alter Markt 1, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 840831, montblanc.com * for map go to page 60

GIRL POWER When Miuccia Prada makes a statement, the world takes notice. Her message this season was feminine, though with not a frill in sight. The designer asked six illustrators and muralists to interpret themes of femininity and power and these faces were transposed on to coats, dresses and skirts. The graphic collection features bold colours, jewelled bras and little black dresses with colourful sequined rainbows. df Prada, Weihburggasse 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 6165, prada.com globalblue.com

79 /

Above: Doychinof spring/summer 2014, sold at Freaks & Icons concept store, Vienna

S H O P | 25

FUTURE FOCUS

Vienna’s design community is rapidly moving into the 21st century as a new set of avant-garde young creatives make their mark across the city. Sally McIlhone reports

There is a shift towards the contemporary, the cutting-edge and the design-led occurring in Vienna’s traditional heart. A raft of modern boutiques is exhibiting state-of-the-art products and innovative fashion from the city’s vibrant young creatives, and the Blickfang design fair ingeniously encourages visitors to buy the latest in furniture, clothing and jewellery

straight from the designer. Though many still pay homage to the past, it’s the future that is captivating Vienna’s retailers and visitors alike. Vienna has much to ofer international travellers seeking modern fashion design, whether they prefer elite labels or directional streetwear. The Park concept store on Mondscheingasse has been charming clients for 10 years with

26 | F E AT U R E S

its eclectic array of labels, from Acne and Ann Demeulemeester to Austrian designers such as Gon and Pelican Avenue. Helmut Ruthner, Park’s CEO, believes the city’s abundance of art events are helping to attract a more designfocused visitor. ‘Especially in the last two to three years, Vienna has become an absolute hotspot for a crowd interested in art and design. Events like Viennafair, Curated By Vienna and Vienna Design Week have become highly respected and well-known internationally.’ For Mandarina Brausewetter Above: Park concept store, Vienna

of the Freaks & Icons store on Zollergasse, it was a desire to break with tradition that encouraged her to open what she describes as ‘Vienna’s frst address for unconventional designer fashion’ in 2005. Today the store displays a radical array of brands including locals Ruins of Modernity and Doychinof, as well as ofering young designers a platform where they can showcase their contemporary clothing. ‘Coming from street art and having successfully started a streetwear label, combined with

S H O P | 27

Fashion and homeware stores are embracing a new, modern design philosophy Vienna being a dusty and boring place for progressive and bold young fashion, it seemed a logical thing to open up a shop here, where I knew there was a burning demand for something new and fresh,’ Brausewetter explains. The Freaks & Icons boutique benefts the local fashion community by promoting their designs and Brausewetter feels that it has also helped to elevate the city’s fashion sense. ‘We are working hard to make Vienna become better dressed and it seems to get better every year,’ she says.

Finding a gap in Vienna’s retail market also inspired Natalie Stando to open her footwear atelier, Natalie Rox, on Zollergasse. After struggling to fnd a pair of wedding shoes that met her criteria, Stando came up with the concept for her own business – ‘customisation of shoes with a reasonable price’. Now she ofers this service to a knowledgeable clientele from destinations that include Russia, France and Germany. ‘Vienna has not been famous for fashion and design but in the last years a lively design scene has rapidly grown,’

Above (clockwise from lef): Natalie Rox boots; Stamm concept store, Vienna; Sieger by Fürstenberg Sip of Gold Champagne glass, available at Stamm concept store

28 | F E AT U R E S

Stando explains. ‘Small shops of the major shopping boulevards can be hard to fnd. Shopping tour guides lead travellers to the insider’s tips hidden on the side streets.’ If you’re in Vienna, be sure to venture beyond the Golden U to fnd the latest in Austrian footwear at the Natalie Rox store. In addition to fashion stores, several homeware and design boutiques are embracing Vienna’s new, modern design philosophy. The Stamm concept store on Petersplatz is also seeking to diversify Vienna’s design scene. Working with international and Austrian contemporary homeware designers, including Tomas Feichtner, Stamm aims to operate a store unlike any other in the city. ‘Vienna has always been a place people visit

in respect of our unique “old” culture,’ says Marcus Fried, Stamm’s managing director. ‘I feel that Vienna is catching up in contemporary design and I think it will be an important factor for the future to keep up the standard of high quality tourism in the city.’ For a quirky array of gift and interiors items, Le Shop on Kirchengasse is a must-visit. Heidi Stadler-Wolfersgrün ofers Austrian jewellery design from Fabrikett and Heartware and stationery from Goods and Better. ‘I think people who visit Vienna have a great interest in art, architecture and modern design, for sure,’ Stadler-Wolfersgrün explains. ‘It has a lot to ofer the culture seeker – modern design happens to be part of that.’

Above (clockwise from lef): scarf design displayed at Blickfang 2013; Le Shop, Vienna; Shigeki Yamamoto lamp displayed at Blickfang 2013

PHOTO: KATHARINA ROSSBOTH

S H O P | 29

For the boldest oferings in modern Viennese design, visitors should head to the city’s annual Blickfang event. This unique event, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary in Vienna, allows fashion, jewellery and furniture designers to sell direct to a designsavvy audience. ‘Meeting the creative mind behind the product and buying directly from the designer meets the needs of today’s consumers,’ believes Jennifer Reaves, Blickfang’s CEO. She believes it’s the combination of Vienna’s heritage with modern design principles that is the key to the city’s future retail success. ‘Vienna has an absolutely unique creative scene due to the fact that modern lifestyle meets traditional handicrafts and each benefts from the other,’ Reaves explains. ‘In Vienna you have a lot of traditional companies with extraordinary knowledge and competence when it comes to manufacturing design products, like Thonet, the Lobmeyr glass manufacturer, who works with designers from the young international scene.’ Though visitors will still make the trip to Vienna to marvel at the Wiener Staatsoper opera house and the Stefansdom cathedral, now is the time to also discover the latest in modern design, a happy marriage of old and new park.co.at, freaksandicons.com, natalie-rox.at, stamm.at, le-shop.at, blickfang.com

AUSTRIA’S FASHION ARISTOCRATS Austria’s style credentials, established centuries ago, remain as infuential and relevant as ever, says Fiona McKenzie Johnston 82 /

Above: Caroline Sieber in her wedding dress, a Chanel couture gown

PHOTO: ROBERT FAIRER

30 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 31

The July 2013 wedding of Austrian couple Caroline Sieber, stylist and Chanel ambassador, and Fritz von Westenholz was described as ‘the most fashionable wedding ever’ by the UK’s Daily Telegraph newspaper and aforded a nine-page spread in the September issue of

Vogue US. ‘It was one of the most exquisite and elegant of all the European social events of the summer,’ says international fashion and style editor Gianluca Longo, a guest at the wedding. ‘It had the best-looking and most international guests, and took place in

PHOTO: ROBERT FAIRER

32 | F E AT U R E S

the most romantic location.’ That location was Vienna, and it put the Austrian capital frmly back on the international hotlist. The bride walked down the aisle in a couture Chanel gown and later changed into a custommade Christopher Kane creation. Both dresses were exquisite. However, the night before the wedding, the couple hosted a tracht party – a gathering at which all guests wear traditional Austrian dress. Erdem, Christopher Kane, Clare Waight Keller of Chloé (who created clothes for Sieber’s pageboys and fower girls), Lauren Santo Domingo, Sieber’s former client

Emma Watson and British aristocrat Pippa Middleton all worked the Austrian look. ‘Austria has always been a stylish country, in particular for its costumes of lederhosen for boys and dirndls for girls – and of course the Austrianborn Loden coat has been a wardrobe classic for decades, the world over,’ remarks Longo. Indeed, Coco Chanel took her inspiration for the original Chanel tweed jacket from a lift boy’s Tyrolean uniform at a hotel near Salzburg. One only has to look at the catalogue for the Fashions of the Hapsburg Era exhibition which took place at the Metropolitan Museum

Above (from lef): Caroline Sieber and Fritz von Westenholz’s tracht party, held the night before their wedding; Olympia Le-Tan clutch bag autumn/winter 2013

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of Art, New York, in 1979-1980, to see just how stylish Austria has always been. That exhibition focused on the period from the 17th century to the collapse of the Habsburg Empire in 1916, and traced the evolution of Habsburg style from the long reign of Empress Maria Theresa (the mother of Marie Antoinette, the inspiration for Karl Lagerfeld’s 2012 Chanel resort collection) – one of the most romantic periods in European history, with clothes and costumes to match – through the Biedermeier period and into the time of Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth, the last

rulers of the Hapsburg Empire. Empress Elisabeth, known as Sisi, was famous for her preoccupation with fashion and beauty, spending two or three hours a day on her coifure and being sewn into her leather corsets. And Austria is still an infuence on today’s fashions. Olympia LeTan’s autumn/winter 2013 collection, Schnitzel with Noodles, was inspired by the country. Shapes were updated from traditional Austro-German clothes and included felt hats, breeches, capes – and lederhosen, for girls, with heartshaped cut-outs at the back. The collection’s clutch bags featured

34 | F E AT U R E S

images from The Sound of Music, among other Austro-German classics. And while Vienna Fashion Week might not get the same level of attention as Paris, London, New York and Milan, there is hardly a lack of Austrian talent. The exceptional design history of the Habsburg Empire did not die out. Biedermeier style, with its emphasis on clean lines and minimal ornamentation, fed into the Bauhaus movement. Minimalism, deconstructed garments and the use of high-tech fabrics became the trademarks of perhaps the best-known Austrian fashion designer of recent years: Helmut Lang, who started his eponymous line, now owned by the Prada Group, in 1986. Above (both): Helmut Lang spring/summer 2014

PHOTOS: © THOMAS KLETECKA

‘Tradition, minimalism and understatement are our frst thoughts about Austrian fashion in general,’ declare Franziska Fürpass and Sia Kermani, founders of Femme Maison, an Austrian luxury womenswear and accessories line. Fürpass trained at the Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien (University of Applied Arts Vienna) in Vienna, under Raf Simons and Veronique Branquinho. Also worth looking out for is Isabelle Steger, who graduated from the same university in 2009 and has since worked for Maison Martin Margiela, and Balenciaga and Jil Sander menswear. Martina Tiefenthaler also studied at the University of Applied Arts and worked for Maison Martin Margiela, before taking up a position at Louis Vuitton in Paris.

PHOTO: CLAUDIO FARKASCH

S H O P | 35

Nedra Chachoua, a recent graduate, was picked out by AnOther Magazine as ‘one to watch’. ‘The fashion scene in Vienna is small, but there are some very talented and interesting designers who are internationally renowned,’ says Chachoua. Swarovski, the famous Austrian crystal house, has, over the years, supplied crystals to embellish Queen Victoria’s dresses, worked with Christian Dior to create an efect that mimics the Aurora Borealis, and, more recently, collaborated with Alexander McQueen, Philip Treacy, Hussain Chalayan, Erdem and Giles Deacon. Nadja Swarovski, the great-great granddaughter of Daniel Swarovski, the

PHOTO: SIA KERMANI (FEMME MAISON)

Austrian fashion is a combination of established names and bright newcomers founder of the company, joined the family frm in 1995 and has since become a fgurehead both for the brand and for Austria – she is a regular on the red-carpet and bestdressed lists. There is no doubt that Caroline Sieber, now Baroness Caroline von Westenholz, is also going to keep Austria on the style map. “The way she wears a Chanel jacket, for example, is both cool and smart,’ says Longo. Both Sieber and the jacket originate in Austria – a country with solid style credentials olympialetan.com, femme-maison.com, isabellesteger.com, martinatiefenthaler.com, nedrachachoua.com

Above (from lef): Femme Maison creators Fransiska Fürpass and Sia Kermani; Femme Maison spring/summer 2014

36 | E X P E R I E N C E

Café soCiety Austrian café culture is one of the world’s fnest, with venues ranging from opulent traditional cafés to modern designer destinations. Verity Hogan takes time out to relax at some of the country’s best

Austria’s café culture is internationally renowned. The country’s cofee shops have historically been popularised by artists, politicians, intellectuals and bohemians, who convened there to read, philosophise and play chess, while enjoying freshly brewed cups of cofee. A relaxed and inviting atmosphere prevails today: the purchase of just one drink will allow you to stay for as long as you wish. In fact, the distinctive ambience of Viennese cofee shops in particular has such an enduring reputation, that since 2011 they have belonged to globalblue.com

Unesco’s intangible cultural heritage list. Austria’s cofee houses range from opulent traditional institutions to quirky modern cafés, ensuring there is a venue to suit every taste. The fnest examples pride themselves on extensive cofee menus: choose between a melange (milky cofee), mocca (black) or a classic espresso with added extras that include milk, cream, liqueurs and chocolate. Accompany your cofee with a sweet pastry – the majority of cafés bake fresh selections each day.

S H O P | 37

KAffee WeITzer

PHOTO: MICHAEL RZEPA/© CAfé CEnTRAL, WIEn

Despite its city-centre location, Graz’s Kafee Weitzer is the perfect place to fnd respite with its traditional ambience, ban on background music and relaxed approach. The café’s varied menu has broad appeal: both the apple and curd cheese strudels are highlights, while the all-day breakfast is a reliable favourite. A selection of more substantial dishes attracts a lunchtime crowd. Be sure to try the boiled Austrian beef served in a crisp bread roll with freshly grated horseradish and a little mustard, accompanied by a cup of rich Turkish cofee. Kafee Weitzer, Grieskai 12, 8020 Graz, +43 (0)3 1670 3650, kaffeeweitzer.com CAfé CenTrAl Opened in 1876, Vienna’s famed Café Central is a bastion of tradition, with an interior that has been painstakingly restored to refect its former glory. The café has long been a popular meeting place for some of the city’s most creative citizens: writer and poet Peter Altenberg was such a regular guest that he took to using the café as his ofcial address. The café ofers a particularly impressive selection of handmade pastries, and its chef pâtissière, Manuela radlherr, is known for her artistic fair. Café Central, Corner Herrengasse/Strauchgasse, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 3763, palaisevents.at

38 | E X P E R I E N C E

Café Bazar Boasting an illustrious heritage and clutch of famous patrons, Café Bazar has become something of an institution in salzburg. The café has long provided a base for artists, poets and thinkers who come to debate cultural issues while enjoy-

Da s MöBe l Part cofee shop and part furniture store, Das Möbel is one of Vienna’s more unusual cafés. every piece of furniture found in the café is available to buy, resulting in an eclectic interior where every chair and table globalblue.com

ing the atmosphere of a traditional austrian café. Breakfast is served throughout the day, alongside an extensive selection of speciality cofees and sweet treats. Café Bazar, Münchner Bundesstrasse 69, 5020 salzburg, +43 (0)662 874278, hotel-brandstaetter.com

is diferent. There is an extensive range of hot and cold drinks as well as a well-edited food menu which includes sandwiches, salads and classic apple strudel. Das Möbel, Burggasse 10, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 524 9497, dasmoebel.at

sightseeing & shopping in a work of art

Architecture by F. Hundertwasser Visit the world-famous facade of the Hundertwasser house and experience his interior design in the «Hundertwasser Village» directly opposite and enjoy a fascinating shopping experience in over 20 different shops. Open daily from 9 am to 7 pm Kegelgasse 37-39, A-1030 Wien Hundertwasser

vis-à-vis the Hundertwasserhaus

YOU ARE GREAT! Men’s Fashion in XXL – 8XL, 58 – 72, 29 – 38, 110 – 126, LT – 3XT Mariahilfer Straße 1a, 1060 Wien www.hirmer-grosse-groessen.de

G U I D E | 41

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar country is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Austria with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/austria or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

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A frst-class shopping experience at attractive prices.

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46 | G U I D E

Kohlmarkt, Naglergasse, Wallnerstrasse, Habsburgergasse & Kärntner Strasse M

CA VA L

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A ● JOSEPH ● S S AM E IC IS ● BRÜHL & SÖHNE M EN BLACK DIAMOND ● ● COLLI ● ELLA VIENNA BRÜHL ● P.22 BURBERRY ● THOMAS SABO ● BREGUET ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● AKRIS ● ● C ● S A ● G IE RT ● J IO DL IE ● C H. B E R G E R R ● D R I J TIFFANY & CO. ● ● F ’A A N G O U DIESEL ● GR ● G O M E ER AR WE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● ● S U GA BR L BU MA ILE AB ● L C CC L O S CH NI R ● SA E K H U L I IO EN HA TOMMY HILFIGER ● ● CH L IF L I V N F ● H N CHOPARD ● E DL M Ä M G I AT O OPTIK PILWEIN ● UN ON M NI R ● PR E ANTIK JUWELEN ● F E G CL R ● IO RE ● FE LORO PIANA ● ER LE CO R ● R YT RR SCHULLIN ● ● S O NC IT Y AG AG ● T U ZE EP AM & H D IM SA T T BE ● OU OU E G NA & F NESPRESSO ● ST O ● GE SE G A M IS R OR LO N O L A L L IC CH N D E DE TL F S ER HA ME T Y EL IS N EM PL EN PE TE AN TK R KL P OV

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SHOP Recommendation

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 47

Graben, Bauernmarkt, Brandstätte, Rotenturmstrasse & Stephensplatz ● SPORTALM

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BOROY E R UG J A S CH O OM B OS I R GO M ● S OLIVER GO ON S LD TT DI ● ESCADA SC ST AL R. G ● SCHWÄBISCHE JUNGFRAU H M MONTBLANC ● R A ● NÄGELE & STRUBELL ● I E D MONSOON/ACCESSORIZE ● B E TI GA ST STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL M N MARC O’POLO ● BE VERSACE ● RL S S E ● HELDWEIN ● PA AN ● SWATCH ND D BALLY ● OR A IWC BOUTIQUE ● Stephansplatz

● JUWELIER WAGNER LACOSTE ● ● KÖCK SALAMANDER ● ● HERMÈS WOLFORD ●

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PHOTO: JuwelIeR waGNeR GmBH wIeN

Juwelier wagner Juwelier wagner is renowned for meeting the requirements of even the most discriminating clientele, with a collection and level of service that achieves the highest standards. Since opening in 1917, the store has stocked a collection of prestigious timepieces and exquisite jewellery; every wagner piece features a sapphire engraved with a w. The boutique itself refects the high quality of the products, with light-flled rooms embellished with dark wood and sandstone accents, and unusual features such as an open freplace and a fourmetre-high waterfall. Visitors are encouraged to take their

globalblue.com

time when choosing a piece – an in-store bar is available for mid-shopping refreshment. Juwelier Wagner, Kärntner Strasse 32, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0512, juwelier-wagner.at

48/72 Stunden U-Bahn, Tram & Bus mit mehr als 210 Ermäßigungen 48/72 hours subway, tram & bus and more than 210 discounts Neu/New

48 h € 18,90

72 h

€ 21,90

Erhältlich ■ in Ihrem Hotel ■ in den Tourist-Infos:

1., Albertinaplatz, tgl. 9 – 19 Flughafen Wien, tgl. 7 – 22 ■ in den Vorverkaufsstellen

der Wiener Linien (z.B. Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof, Landstrasse/Wien Mitte) ■ in Reisebüros ■ mit Kreditkarte:

Tel. +43-1-798 44 00-148 ■ www.wienkarte.at

WWW.VIENNA.INFO

Available from ■ your hotel ■ the tourist information ofﬁces Albertinaplatz, 1st district, daily 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. Vienna Airport, daily 7 a.m. – 10 p.m. ■ Wiener Linien sales counters (e.g. Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof, Landstrasse / Wien Mitte) ■ travel agencies ■ the credit card hotline: tel. +43-1-798 44 00-148 ■ www.wienkarte.at

©WTV/GERHARD WEINKIRN

©KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM, WIEN

Genießen Sie Wien à la carte – und erkunden Sie die Stadt 48 oder 72 Stunden lang mit U-Bahn, Tram und Bus. Mehr als 210 Ermäßigungen locken: Museen und Geschäfte, Restaurants, Cafés und Heurige. Besuchen Sie das imperiale Wien in Hofburg, Schloss Schönbrunn und Schatzkammer. Schauen Sie bei Klimts „Kuss“ und Bruegels „Bauernhochzeit“ vorbei. Drehen Sie eine Runde mit dem Riesenrad oder mit der Vienna Ring Tram. Und erleben Sie Wiens Konzertsäle. Übrigens: Pro Wien-Karte fährt ein Kind (bis 15 Jahre, Ausweis!) gratis mit – in U-Bahn, Tram und Bus ...

Savor Vienna à la carte – and discover the city with 48 or 72 hours of unlimited travel on the subway, tram and bus network. More than 210 discounts are available at museums, shops, restaurants, cafés and wine taverns. Soak up the imperial atmosphere at the Hofburg, Schönbrunn Palace and Treasuries. See Klimt’s “The Kiss” and Bruegel’s “Peasant Wedding”. Go for a spin on the Giant Ferris Wheel or take a trip on the Vienna Ring Tram. Experience Vienna’s concert halls. And that’s not all: one child up to the age of 15 (ID required) per Vienna Card holder is entitled to free travel on the subway, bus and tram network.

Godetevi Vienna à la carte – e lanciatevi alla scoperta della città per 48 o 72 ore con il metrò, il tram e l’autobus. Vi attendono oltre 210 agevolazioni: musei e negozi, ristoranti, caffè e Heuriger. Ammirate la Vienna imperiale al Palazzo Imperiale, al Castello di Schönbrunn ed al Tesoro. Andate a vedere il “Bacio“ di Klimt e le “Nozze contadine“ di Bruegel. Fate un giro turistico con la Ruota panoramica o il Vienna Ring Tram. E non dimenticate le sale da concerto di Vienna. Tra l’altro: ogni utente di una Vienna Card può portare con sé gratuitamente un bambino (ﬁno ai 15 anni, documento d’identità!) – in metrò, tram ed autobus...

Savourez Vienne à la carte – et partez pendant 48 ou 72 heures à la découverte de la ville en métro, tram et bus. Et proﬁtez de plus de 210 réductions dans les musées, boutiques, restaurants, cafés et heuriger. Visitez la Vienne impériale : la Hofburg, le château de Schönbrunn, le Trésor impérial. Allez voir Le baiser de Klimt et Le repas de noces de Bruegel. Montez sur la Grande Roue ou découvrez la ville avec le Vienna Ring Tram. Ou encore offrez-vous un concert dans un des hauts lieux de la musique viennoise. Bon à savoir : un enfant de moins de 15 ans (pièce justiﬁcative) accompagnant un adulte titulaire d’une Vienna Card voyage gratuitement en métro, tram et bus.

50 | G U I D E

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NE E O S I TA E K ● BL’O C CN G E SS UC ● GA ● O R A A’S I N A D DM ● EN G S I ● A L DA R R I A RA ● EG I Y G E N I S T R ● V A O E S S NTE ● ● MP U L L Y B U N HW E CE AG SC ● B USS T TO H O N B AW IS ● R LRT P AR I ● ● BENE KA IE P SMA SE ● J O L E M IM L ● R AS A O M U AB Y T IQ PA R E LIG W OP EL IN B O UA N A P O T T O ● ● GS K I N S S H N S ● D S N A IC IE ● J E A R E ’S W E I M ER ALER L AND ● JO AM ÜH G ● CL AI TER AU ER LG DON ORK K ● ● WA L C K L K & NEW Y TURE ● AS ● ROE A F R IC EL SE ● B I L L A N I CA OHN B EN ● HUM DOR UHR ● PA N NN ● H&M HMA ● D EIC E S ● JON UE R 21 G VE ● O E SS ● VF O R EZ GA ● NET k& IF T NIG ● Pee urg ST KÖ EL enb p p IEF N Clo ST SH E ER ● ● G U N OD ER ● ● LO R A I K M AND A M T C H IB OO ● ● T ECN E S EU M SAL C ● SNIP OT H IN & S ● WE JONE E ● ● DO R E Y EIJ L CAMILLE BOYER ● ON K& ● SISL Y W CE J A C T R E E T IT E R ●● AN ● TA L L B I A N S RE KUR RM ● ● M .G I R FO E M ZARA ● H&M K PER ER ● PEA ss ILF ● ● KE AH ngro HE RI Ger S AT U R NA ● OT R M A R IT P E N A ● D U BO ERS AL R ●Z M RW U E Y PA L BE L A RG D● ● OH A R TN E N E MO ● ● W EI P R OIS S IM I ● ● 3 IM R IT IN T E S P M A ● ● SSE PU ER ● NGA ● L IV CH E S O R YO U ● KIR IX ● FO S O NN A RZ MA O L K A1 ● THU IEL KO M ●F ES ● SHO MO X NIA E MA DO RSO E ND SS ZE SS SC A L K CO S● GA RA E R O U G L AK IE ● ● CO P T I N E R H L ST L D U ● NE IE / ZO P IM V IP ● NG I G H ● ● R L E A RNA INA KENT ● EN KILL M ER E T EY J AY ●● A ● L A DWAT C HK ● S URE T

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

SHOP Recommendation

Fashion, best ofers & international fair Shopping & Restaurants at Vienna Airport

www.viennaairport.com

Мода, предложения, интернациональная атмосфера Магазины и рестораны в аэропорту Вены

54 | G U I D E

GeRstneR Visitors to Vienna who have a sweet tooth will never leave Gerstner disappointed. the majority of items sold in the store are handmade with the fnest raw materials to ensure quality. try the Gerstner torte with its combination of chocolate cake and chocolate cream or choose from the selection of fresh trufes and macaroons.

House of Gentlemen

fers outfts to suit any occasion, from casual weekend attire to smart business suiting. A wide range of premium international brands is on ofer, including pieces by Barbour, Brooks Brothers, Van laack, Church’s and Ralph lauren. House of Gentlemen, Kohlmarkt 11, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 3258, bruehl.at for map go to page 46

PHOTO: CHrisTian sCHarl

menswear enthusiasts should make sure that their visit to Vienna includes a stop at the city’s House of Gentlemen. this prestigious menswear boutique has been dressing Vienna’s most stylish citizens for the past 45 years and of-

Gerstner, Kärntner strasse 13-15, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 743 4422, gerstner.at for map go to page 46

globalblue.com

cunda.at

Vösendorf, SCS, Eingang 3 Wien 2, Stadion Center, Olympiaplatz 2 Wien 3, Galleria, Landstraßer Hauptstr. 99 Wien 7, Mariahilfer Str. 96-98 Wien 10, Erlachgasse 92 b Wien 11, Zentrum Simmering Simmeringer Hauptstr. 100 Wien 12, Meidlinger Hauptstr. 57-59 Wien 14, Auhof Center Albert-Schweitzergasse 6

Wien 15, Gablenzgasse 5 Wien 21, FMZ C21 Consio Prager Straße 286 Wien 21, Seyringer Straße 12-14 Wien 22, Donauzentrum, Donaustadtstr. 1, Top 52 Wien 22, Gewerbepark Stadlau Gewerbeparkstr. ON 10 Wien 23, Riverside, Breitenfurter Str. 372

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Bischofshofen, EKZ Karo Bahnhofstr. 4 Eugendorf, FMZ, Rรถmerstr. 4 Salzburg, Europark, Europastr. 1

Salzburg, Rainerstr. 23 St. Johann/Pongau, Stadtgalerie Hans Kappacher Str. 1

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G U I D E | 59

Ludwig ReiteR despite its rich heritage and commitment to traditional production methods, Ludwig Reiter’s timeless footwear collections are always on trend. the company was established in Vienna in 1885 and still produces shoes in the classical Viennese style; every shoe is fnished by hand and quality is guaranteed. Purchase a pair of Reiter shoes and you’ll be in good company – the brand has previously collaborated with Helmut Lang and werner Baldessarini.

Ludwig Reiter, goldgasse 3, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 870580, ludwig-reiter.com for map go to page 60

JEANS ONLY ●

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ID E N ● OPTIK SLATNER Z P L AT Z

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Waagplatz GANT ●

STRANNER ●

● AIGNER

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ROS ITA ● KÖ NOM CHERT ● IN A T PA N IO N ● DOR A● STE IN D L PA L MER ● AU G S● ART EN ● HER MÈS ● S IL L A S WA M ● TCH ●

●C OLL IN ●P UUR S HÜTE ●K OPP ENW ALL NER

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Mozartplatz

SHOP Recommendation

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Crai a well-edited selection of womenswear and childrenswear has made Crai one of Salzburg’s most popular independent boutiques. This is the kind of store where dedicated searches through the heavily stacked rails always yield results; pieces by brands such as Desigual, Bench and Yumi can all be found among the selection. The childrenswear collection is equally impressive and features a number of eco-friendly labels; look out for pieces by sustainable, green brands Kyuichi, itsus and Chippie.

Crai, Sigmund-Hafnergasse 7, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 844601, crai.at

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Alter Markt

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

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GO L D G A SSE

L FS

● LUDWIG REITER

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DG A S

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Café Konditorei Fürst

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● MO N ● G EH TB LA N C ● E S M ACH ER PR ● P O IT S BET T ● BA Y R CH RIS CLAY ● IN S TM A S A LZ B U RG E●

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● FO S ● DIE SIL B ● SIX RÏL L E ● WO L FO R D

MANGO ●

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S.O IL & LIV ER ● SOU DISK V ENIR ON ALES T ● S ROS IC ● IT TA PA N DOR ● A●

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● STIEFELKÖNIG

P.23

● HUGO BOSS

WMF ●

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Judengasse, Sigmund Hafner Gasse Hagenauerplatz & Rathausplatz

Waagplatz

● MANNER

Cafe

S H O P | 61

STiefelKönig Stiefelkönig, which ofers a carefully curated range of designer footwear, is known for its exacting selection process. The company launched in graz in 1919 and has spent the last century building a reputation for its unparalleled style and quality. The company’s Salzburg store boasts an expert team who provide exceptional service and well-placed advice; their knowledge of current trends means you are certain to walk away with the latest style. alongside Stiefelkönig’s own-brand footwear, expect to fnd an array of desirable pieces by brands such as Calvin Klein, DKnY, guess, lloyd and Clarks among the range. Stiefelkönig, getreidegasse 8, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 845317, stiefelkoenig.com

Getreidegasse ● E2

HALLHUBER ●

MARIONNAUD ●

HOCTNER ●

U NIV ER SIT ÄTSP L.

HACKENBUCHNER ●

ORSAY ●

● SWA ROVSKI ● WAN GER ● JUW ELIER KALT EIS ● ENNSMAN N ● JUW ELIER SCHN EIDER ● MOZ ART

● R.F. AZWANG ER ● VERO MODA ● TRACHTEN STAD L ● FREY WILL E ● BENE TTON

● HÄM MER LE ● ADRIANO ● DENK STEIN ● BONITA ● H&M ● G.H. MOZ ART ● PÜH RING ER ● MAD L

GE T R EIDEGA SSE

DOUGLAS ●

ZARA ●

KIRCHTAG ●

CLAIRE’S ●

ASLANDER ●

STASSNY KINDER ●

RED BULL STORE ●

PALMERS ●

DANTENDORFER ●

DENKSTEIN ●

SALAMANDER ●

I TA

● DENK STEI N ● TOM MY HILFIGER ● SOU VENIRS & GESCHENK E ● LANA STRICKW AREN ● GEOX ● TRACHTEN WEN GER ● ENNSMAN N ● DAN TENDORFE R ● STEN DERS

● TRACHETEN STAS SNY ● SPER ER ● G7 LIFE STYL E ● LOUIS VUIT TON ● JUW ELEN HAA SMA NN ● FURS & FASHION ● AIRFIELD ● ZWIL LING J.A. HENCKELS

BÜRGER

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FURTNER HANISCH ●

DENKSTEIN ●

FRITSCH ● JUWEILER NADLER ●

STER NGÄ SSCEN

ROECKL ● THOMAS SABO ●

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Place Of Interest

YS TR AS SE

RA DE T Z K

S SE

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BR ÜC KE N

LANDHAUSHOF

KAIS ERF E L

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BE L G I ER G AS SE

P.70 A SSE

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Schlossberg L FE

. RG GE LIN

62 | G U I D E

Graz

MURINSEL

S H O P | 63

ZE ZIN

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Stadtpark

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P.68

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ST. CATHERINE'S CHURCH AND MAUSOLEUM

E AB

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» GRAZ – AUSTRIA’S CAPITAL OF CULINARY DELIGHTS « All partner restaurants of the capital of culinary delights have one thing in common: they share the passion for regional products. And the creativity for new interpretation of traditional recipes: AIOLA IM SCHLOSS SANKT VEIT, Andritzer Reichstraße 144

LA ENOTECA, Sackstraße 14

AIOLA UPSTAIRS, Schlossberg 2

RESTAURANT CARL Opernring 5a

AUSTRIA TREND HOTEL EUROPA GRAZ Bahnhofgürtel 89 DER STEIRER, Belgiergasse 1 ECKSTEIN, Mehlplatz 3 EDLER’S CATERING Alte Universität FREIBLICK BY ECKSTEIN Dachterrasse K&Ö/Sackstr. 7-13 GLÖCKL BRÄU Glockenspielplatz 2-3 GÖSSERBRÄU Neutorgasse 48 HOTEL PARADIES, Straßgangerstraße 380b KIRCHENWIRT MARIATROST Kirchplatz 9

PRATO, Sackstraße 16

RESTAURANT FLORIAN IM ROMANTIK PARKHOTEL Leonhardstraße 8 RESTAURANT IM CAFÉ SACHER, Herrengasse 6 RESTAURANT TAFELZIMMER IM HOTEL NOVAPARK Fischeraustraße 22 REVITA GASTRONOMIE & CASINO RESTAURANT Sparkassenplatz 1 SAN PIETRO St. Peter Hauptstraße 141 SCHLOSSBERG, Schlossberg 7 STAINZERBAUER, Bürgergasse 4 STARCKE HAUS, Schlossberg 4

KITCHEN 12, Kaiser Josef Platz 3

TONI LEGENSTEIN CATERING, www.tonilegensteincatering.at

LANDHAUS-KELLER Schmiedgasse 9

ZUR STEIRERSTUB’N Lendplatz 8

www.genusshauptstadt.at

66 | G U I D E

Glockenspiel The perfect day-to-night venue, Glockenspiel café-bar smoothly transitions from cofee and breakfast in the morning to cocktails and neon lighting each evening. piña coladas, cosmopolitans and caipirinhas are all available, while the interior decor is subtly chic.

Glockenspiel, Glockenspielplatz 4, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)664 242 8893, glockenspiel.at

Sackstrasse, Hauptplatz & Herrengasse HOFG

INET T ● ANT IKES KAB ZE ● KUT TLE R PEL

A SSE

ER ● KAS TNE R & ÖHL

● NESPRE SSO ● O THO MAS SAB O SP BILL A BOX ● ● LUD WIG REIT ER I Z SK ER IL RD HÄM MER LE ● OV N D I E P HA AR Z A ER EIK SW LD M ● G O R F UH N N W UD P ● PA U S M A N A O ● L ER ION H A SSE ● H A R A DY S J L MURG ● M EF B O EI ● RG ● RU E Y W H&M ● H L ● D S T AS FOR ● TA L ER WO L E A R L ● ● SE P LM O PA B HI ● C T ● PALMERS ● P R P ● E 3 BA ZEL S E ● ● BIG W U RP O T H E K L ● RA ÖSS ● C ● BANG & OLUFSEN A D L EE N S C H L A U E R ● NI HT ● RT MA T R A C H U B E B IL L A HU KIE IN E● IZ R ● PIM ULL R SSO H A NDE ● ACC E ● SC IT BER / ● BON MA RTH Y WE A A GERR ER A MOD ● E F ● AL S V S AMM UR JO N E K C ● JA KL THW NN A ● ● MO M ER G A S S E ● IEL N IS ● E R IO MPF F IN T TEZE STE EKE ● SE S ● TH A EL O G N P ● FA M● HT NA IG G S T E U R IS IS ● RE E ND EC CHN R TO BÄ U KI BR LÖS ● V O G B E S ’S A Z TA M A U D ● AL A GR ● LIE IRE ODE NN HER ● IO A ● M ● ● R C CL T & R MA UTS BELL AFT ● W RU KR HE HU T T IK AT E OC ER ● S● OP E & S REN S R RK A LA ● L E G E U H G Y V W YO TA L I A S D O IU M P S ● NÄ ● A I N E DA R H T R H AU ● ● S E LEN JONE MO TMA ER ● SS E R EP DI ● GA LE ● DL ● L E IN US AL IN K A E S H IG H DH DA ÖN ND AN A ● ELK IN ONI LA Y IF L D E D R ST ON FE ZE ● CAL I● ER ER ● S IM ● EIL R EIN IM IS E M E L UW CH T J ON S IN IS D R● ● TT E O N NE S IG BE ●

FÄ

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DGA

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TCH

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

●

Willkommen in Österreichs schönstem Modehaus Sackstrasse 7 - 13, 8010 Graz (Nähe Hauptplatz) Mo - Fr 9.30 - 19.00 Uhr Sa 9.30 - 18.00 Uhr www.kastner-oehler.at

68 | G U I D E

Kunsthaus Graz the distinctive design of Graz’s modern art gallery is guaranteed to divide opinion; known locally as the Friendly alien, the structure features interactive glass walls and large rooftop spikes. the gallery’s interior ofers an array of facilities, allowing the space to cater to a range of diferent exhibitions, although only works produced after 1960 can claim a place. this spring, discover the evocative moving

images of James Benning’s Decoding Fear exhibition and the vibrant colours used in the work of Katharina Grosse. Kunsthaus Graz, Lendkai 1, 8020 Graz, +43 (0)316 8017 9200, museum-joanneum.at

Hans Sachs Gasse, Stubenberggasse, Kaiserfeldgasse, Girardigasse, Opernring & Joanneumring ● CH ● IS INI ● R B L L N II ● H A CE CU SA CO U S ÖG

●

AN TO A ●

NEUROTH ●

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BEN

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HM ● NORTHLAND JACK WOLFSKIN ● F.AMBERGER ●

●

S CH

ZARA ●

ANNA MARIA ● KNILLI ● ● BIPA ● RIEGLER ● LENA HOSCHEK ● RIEGLER

JA K

OMI

N I P L AT Z

NG RI U M ● KNILLI NE N ● WEIN & CO OA HOH ●

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SHOP Recommendation

Featured In This Issue

R DIG A

SSE

cunda.at

Deutschlandsberg, Frauentalerstr. 83 Fohnsdorf, Arena am Waldfeld Süd Murweg 13 a Fürstenfeld, FMZ Fürstenfeld-West Grazerstraße 16, Top 11 Gleisdorf, Ludwig-Binder-Str. 28, Top 2 Graz, Annenstr. 67 Graz, MURPARK, Ostbahnstr. 3 Graz, Shopping Nord Wienerstr. 351, Top 1/20 Hartberg, FMZ, Im Hatric 8

Kapfenberg, ece Einkaufs-Centrum Wiener Straße 35 a/Top 1/20 Leibnitz, EKZ Basta, Leopold Figl-Str. 1 Leoben, Hauptplatz 19, Top N 10 Liezen, EKZ Arkade Liezen Hauptstr. 30, Top 6 Mürzzuschlag, Mürz-Center Grazer Straße 79 b Seiersberg, Shopping City Seiersberg 7/2/5, Eingang D Voitsberg, Kaufwelt Rosental Knappenplatz 15

A GL G HÖ F ER SC HO OF AN RB TI RE M H FÄ A Z RIS PU A G R CH ● DE O DT R I E M N ● ENI STA LE KE AR EL R K G A ● ● W E R EN K L A FM BE A ● IE ● U H TA IEL RIE FR IELL R ● ● TIK A Z IA B A A Z HE ● ● GR YR AR AL G R T SC T E ● S T A Z A N DT S C T ● U ● B A R W RIE ER ER ● BR ETE TIK GLO LAU O ● ● P PP N ● ● OP SU LE RT S I A LY IL HA N E O I A N R ● IL W ● W E Y IK A BB HE A ● Y FR ON ● GA TSC NN W I ● EN M RE WU DO EOX L ● ED ● HR G ER H D DI -U PI TIK IN S ● SC EL ● OP HE L A O ● I UB SK UG RI ● T OV ● DO M P E K ER ● AR I E C LO O N ● SW ● OT W CH FO NE WAT IX ● S ● S Y SA RA

H A U P T P L AT Z

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IC AN UM ●H S TU IL A R ●P TE UN ER ● H INICIE OM ●D US PL UE OG ●V EN UE RR OG HE ●V UE OG ●V

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SHOP Recommendation

S●

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PIL KÜ

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TH WI

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R AU B ERG A SSE

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

L AT

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NE UT OR GA

Global Blue Retailer

NIP

IN G

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NNE

JOA

DGAS

RFEL

K A IS E

KAL CHB ERG ASS

R G A S SE

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NEUE GALERIE

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AZ P GR SHO A AT MER FA L L ● CA V IE L E IK T E ● AN CO L L RRA ● TA L R ● ID USTE ÖHNE ● SE SCH L&S R H E Ü D R B ● LE ANE C C IT ● L’ O D I PA R IS OB CA EN B ● JA ITAT T IQ U ● A N C L A S S IC ● LA Y EL B ● C IT A N N A AU S ● H NIV E A H TL ● GA SSE C H AC STUBENBE RG EU GS SP IELZ

BRIL LEN THEO ●

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70 | G U I D E

Murgasse, Sporgasse, Hofgassse, Stempfergasse, Raubergasse & Schmiedgasse

72 | G U I D E

Innsbruck P FA R R

● ●

O LF

● MA RIO NN

AU D

R A B EN

E R ZELL

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SPAR ●

AN G

● TOMMY HILFIGER ● SALAMANDER

● TCHIBO

IA TH

STR .

GERRY WEBER ●

● EINWALLER SPORTSFRAU

MAR

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ABE K TG R

● BONITA

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SIEN

SELECTED STORES IN Hotel Penz KAUFHAUS TYROL:

● TYROLIA ● WEIGAND

STR

● HUMANIC

A SS

THOMAS SABO ●

Rathaus Galerie

E R L E R ST R A S S E

NÄGELE & STRUBELL ●

MAR

● PALMERS ● DOUGLAS ● CLAIRE’S

ANNA COLUMN

● STIEFELKÖNIG

RIA

● KIEHLS

SISLEY ●

HST

● LEITNER JUWELEN

A N IC

● GéSTAR

● SPORTLER WITTNIG ST EIN HUGO ● ● DENK ● BOSS A SSE

RES

NER S

R A SSE IEN ST

E R AY

BENETTON ●

M ER A

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HARTLAUER ●

A SSE

● TIROLER HEIMATWERKE

THE

DOROTHEUM ●

NESPRESSO ●

Kaufaus Tyrol MAX HERRENMODE ● SCHMITT & LAIR ● INTIMISSIMI ● SE GANT ● RAS

FA LL M

ACCESSORIZE Adolf-PichlerBENETTON BEELINE Platz CECIL E CROCS A SS L IN G DANILINC O DEICHMANN DEPOT DOLCE VITA ESPRIT FOREVER 18 G-STAR HARTLAUER H&M HUMANIC HOME INTERIOR INTERSPORT PEEK & CLOPPENBURG S OLIVER SATURN SWATCH WMF

● SWAROVSKI

JULIUS HAMPL ●

BURG G

W JU

TR A SS

● EINWALLER SPORTSMANN

● DANTENDORFER

EINWALLER ANNA ●

GA SSE

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PA N

● N AN SM NN IE SK OV SW AR

RICH S

FRIED

WILHELM ●

ZO G

HEKE ● VA N LA AC

RIES ENG ASS E

MOZART SHOP ●

● AP OT

PALMERS ●

FREYWILLE ●

H KT

Café Katzung HER

KIE

H OFG A SSE

● ZILLERTALER TRACHTENWELT

EINWALLER JOSEF ● SPORTALM ●

I E D R I C H S T R A S SE RD

HE R Z O G F R

● EGGER

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HÖ

BLODER ●

● FEINHEITEN

GOLDEN ROOF

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EINWALLER OUTLET ●

S T I F TG A S S

Herzog Friedrich Strasse

● INTERSPORT

Eduard-WallnöferPlatz

Global Blue Retailer

Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall

Place Of Interest

Cafe

Featured In This Issue

cunda.at

Innsbruck, beim dez, Amraser See Str. 60 Innsbruck, Sillpark, Museumstr. 38 Innsbruck West, Höttinger Au 73 Kitzbühel, Jochbergstraße 58 Landeck, Malserstr. 33

Nußdorf-Debant, Großglocknerstr. 1 a Telfs, EKZ Inntalcenter, Weissenbachg. 9 Vomp, An der Leiten 12 Wörgl, im Geschäftshaus CENTRAL Bahnhofstr. 27-29

74 | G U I D E

OUR VIENNA: IDA STEIXNER & LENA KRAMPF Austrians Ida Steixner and Lena Krampf launched the Meshit fashion label in 2010 and their numerous awards include Designer of the Year at the 2013 Vienna Awards for Fashion and Lifestyle. They share their Vienna insiders’ tips with Hannah Lewis meshit.at

‘We both like Wood Wood because it sells labels that you can’t buy anywhere else in Vienna. Comerc has the best selection for jeans. For secondhand clothes one of the Humana stores, or Polyklamott. We also go to fea markets – there are so many here! ‘Suppito is very good for healthy take-away soups. Sapa has great Vietnamese food and a Parisian bakery with the best tarts. 10er Marie is a typical heuriger (wine tavern) with traditional Austrian dishes. The Bangkok makes authentic curries. No 27 is a Chinese restaurant with real Chinese dishes. The pizzas at Pizzeria Riva have an authentic Italian taste. ‘Our favourite local cafés and bars include Café Urania, Prückl, Alt Wien, Café Engländer and Malipop as they are places where you can experience traditional Viennese

Above: one of the Viennese branches of Café Aida

cofee culture. There’s also Café Kafka, Dommayer, Schikaneder, Café Europa and Café Aida. ‘We love to take visiting friends to the Steinhofgründe or Jubiläumswarte. We also

Featured in This issue

go to the Museumsquartier * p.42 as there´s always something going on, or to the Naschmarkt: it’s a great place where you can fnd lots of different restaurants and diferent people. It’s always busy on Saturdays. For a good walk, go from Naschmarkt to the Museumsquartier, through the park between Kunsthistorisches Museum * p.42 ( Historical Arts Museum) and Naturhist o r i s c h e M u s e u m * p.42 (Natural History Museum), along Heldenplatz and Michaelaplatz, or just through the alleys in the inner city. ‘The views over the city from the Gloriette in Schönbrunn and from the riesenrad (ferris wheel) are amazing. ‘One of the best-kept secrets in Vienna is Café Sperlhof, an old café with diferent board games to play. Also Sundays at Krieau Trabrennbahn,

an old racecourse which is still in operation. ‘Our latest discovery is the area around our atelier in the ffth district. Now we have our atelier and shop there we both really like the surrounding area.’ ‘Good art places include Secession * p.42, MUMOK * p.42, 21erHaus and Kunsthalle. There are also lots of small galleries, for example Ve.Sch and Inoperable. ‘Exploring the city by bike is great because you see much

PHOTO: MArgHeriTA SPiluTTini

G U I D E | 75

more than if you´re sitting in the metro. And you should really go to one of the traditional Viennese cafés. Also, we recommend a Würstelstand (hot dog stall) at night, such as the one at the U6 metro station at Josephstädter Strasse or at Gürtel where you will meet a lot of funny people.’

Above (from top): Museumsquartier, Vienna; Secession exhibition hall, Vienna

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 24: Future Focus

Шаг в будущее

Венский дизайн устремляется в будущее и превращается в поистине авангардное явление, благодаря творчеству целого поколения молодых дизайнеров, - рассказывает Салли МакИлхон globalblue.com

Вену принято считать хранительницей традиций. Однако в последнее время и здесь наметился сдвиг к современности и актуальности, в частности - внимание к прогрессивному дизайну. Многие бутики начали выставлять на витрины инновационные предметы и авангардную одежду от молодых дизайнеров. Ярмарка Blickfang делает все, чтобы

посетителям захотелось приобрести современную мебель, гардероб и ювелирные украшения непосредственно у их создателей. Несмотря на то, что многие по-прежнему ценят австрийскую традиционность, недалекое будущее не дает покоя ни ритейлерам, ни посетителям. Вена, действительно, способна удивить гостей из других стран, интересующихся современным модным дизайном, будь то элитные лейблы или своеобразная уличная одежда. Концептстор Park на Mondscheingasse уже 10 лет объединяет под одной крышей самые разные актуальные бренды – от известных Acne и Ann Demeulemeester до местных Gon и Pelican Avenue. Исполнительный директор Park Хельмут Рутнер утверждает, что многочисленные культурные события привлекают в столицу поклонников стиля: «Особенно в последние два-три года Вена стала настоящим магнитом для знатоков искусства и дизайна. Такие проекты, как Viennafair, Curated By Vienna и Vienna Design Week, становятся все более известными и уважаемыми во всем мире». По словам Мандарины Браузеветтер из Freaks & Icons на Zollergasse, утверждает, на открытие в 2005 году «первого венского магазина необычной дизайнерской одежды» ее вдохновило желание отойти от традиций. globalblue.com

Сегодня в ассортименте бутика - радикальная подборка брендов, в том числе и австрийцы Ruins of Modernity и Doychinof. По сути, Freaks & Icons – это специализированная платформа, где молодые дизайнеры могут представить публике свои авангардные идеи. «Занимаясь стрит-артом и успешно представив на рынок марку уличной одежды, я постоянно наблюдаю, что Вена считается слишком серым и скучным городом для прогрессивной и яркой молодой моды. Вполне логичным было открыть магазин здесь. Ведь я знала точно, что будет серьезный спрос на нечто новое и свежее», - объясняет Браузеветтер. Бутик Freaks & Icons активно продвигает творчество местного модного сообщества, и сама владелица ощущает, что это уже помогло поменять восприятие моды в городе. «Мы много работаем над тем, чтобы Вена стала лучше одеваться. Кажется, ситуация развивается с каждым годом», делится наблюдениями она. Натали Стандо тоже обнаружила эту свободную ниша на венском рынке и открыла обувное ателье Natalie Rox на Zollergasse. Ее история началась с поиска пары свадебных туфель, которая бы удовлетворила всем ее требованиям. Не обнаружив ничего подходящего, Стандо сформулировала идею для собственного бизнеса –

«доработка обуви по умеренным ценам». Теперь она предлагает этот сервис требовательным клиентам из разных стран, включая Россию, Францию и Германию. «Мода или дизайн Вены не слишком известны, однако в последние годы эта сфера активно развивается, объясняет Стандо. – Небольшие магазины, где происходит все самое интересное, находятся в стороне от крупных торговых бульваров, и их бывает сложно найти. Поэтому гиды шоппинг-туров приводят путешественников в неизвестные магазины на небольших улочках». Если вы находитесь в Вене, обязательно выберитесь за пределы Золотого квартала и посмотрите новинки австрийской обуви в магазине Natalie Rox. Помимо модных бутиков, в концепцию современного венского стиля удачно вписываются несколько магазинов домашней утвари и дизайнерских решений. Владельцам концепт-стора Stamm на Petersplatz хочется разнообразить эту сферу, поэтому их ассортимент состоит из разработок Томаса Файхтнера и других авангардных дизайнеров Австрии и других стран. «Вена всегда была местом, куда путешественники приезжали за неповторимой «старинной» культурой, - рассуждает Маркус Фрайд, управляющий директор

Stamm. – Я чувствую, что сейчас Вена наверстывает упущенное и в современном дизайне. На мой взгляд, это будет важным фактором для будущего и поддержания стандарта качества в туризме». Если вам нужны необычные подарки и идеи для интерьера, обязательно загляните в Le Shop на Kirchengasse. Его владелица Хайди ШтадлерВулфферсгрюн представляет вашему вниманию австрийские ювелирные украшения от Fabrikett и Heartware, а также канцелярские товары от Goods and Better: «Я думаю, что люди, приезжающие в Вену, как правило, интересуются искусством, архитектурой и дизайном. И этому городу есть, что предложить: современный дизайн органично становится частью этого». Самые выдающиеся образцы венских авангардных решений можно найти на ежегодном городском фестивале Blickfang. Вот уже 10 лет здесь собираются дизайнеры одежды, украшений и мебели и продают свои работы заинтересованной аудитории напрямую. «Ощущать креативный процесс за каждой вещью и встречаться с дизайнерами – вот чего хотят покупатели 21 века», утверждает Дженнифер Ривз, исполнительный директор Blickfang. Она считает, что ключ к будущему успеху – в сочетании венского наследия и прогрессивных дизайнерских

принципов. «Уникальность Вены – в соединении современного образа жизни и традиционных ремесел, где одно обогащается за счет другого, – объясняет Ривз. – В Вене работает огромное количество творческих студий, обладающих неповторимым набором знаний и компетенций и способных создавать дизайнерские решения, как Tonet, стекольная мануфактура Lobmeyr, которая работает с молодыми дизайнерами из разных стран». Еще многие годы в Вену будут приезжать, прежде всего, чтобы любоваться Венской оперой и Собором святого Стефана. Однако теперь пришло время представить гостям и новинки современного дизайна, в котором благополучно соединилось все лучшее - старое и новое. park.co.at, freaksandicons.com, natalie-rox.at, stamm.at, le-shop.at, blickfang.com 30: Austria’s Fashion Aristocrats

Модная аристократия Австрии Австрийский стиль, завоевавший мир несколько веков назад, и в наши дни не утратил своего влияния и значимости, - рассказывает Фиона МакКензи Джонстон Свадьба стилиста, амбассадора Chanel Каролин Сибер и Фрица фон Вестенхольца в globalblue.com

июле 2013 года стала «самой фешенебельной», по мнению британской газеты Daily Telegraph. Журнал Vogue US посвятил ей девять страниц в сентябрьском выпуске. «Это было одно из самых изысканных и элегантных светских событий этого лета в Европе, - делится редактор моды и стиля Жанлука Лонго, который был в числе приглашенных. – В самый романтичный город великолепно одетые гости приехали буквально отовсюду». Благодаря этой свадьбе, Вена вновь укрепила свои позиции в списке востребованных модных направлений. Невеста прошествовала к алтарю в платье Chanel, на время приема она переоделась в наряд Christopher Kane, созданный специально к этому случаю – и оба комплекта были одинаково изысканны. А вечером накануне свадьбы молодожены провели традиционную вечеринку tracht, на которую все гости должны прийти в народных костюмах. Эрдем, Кристофер Кейн, Клэр Уэйт Келлер из Chloé (она, к слову, разработала одежду для пажей и цветочниц Сибер), Лорен Санто-Доминго, бывший клиент Сибер Эмма Уотсон и британская светская львица Пиппа Миддлтон – каждый из них выбрал для себя истинно австрийский образ. «Австрия всегда была стильной страной, и это особенно проявилось в

в нью-йоркском Музее Метрополитен в 1979-1980 годах, чтобы почувствовать значимость хорошего вкуса для Австрии. Эта выставка прослеживает эволюцию австрийского стиля, начиная с 17 века и до падения империи Габсбургов в 1916 году. Ее открывает длительное правление императрицы Марии Терезы (матери Марии Антуанетты, музы курортной коллекции Карла Лагерфельда в 2012 году) - это один из самых романтичных периодов

PHOTO: ROBERT FAIRER

национальном костюме – вспомните мужские кожаные штаны ледерхозе и женское платье дирндль. А австрийское укороченное пальто из лодена уже стало классикой во всем мире», - размышляет Лонго. Действительно, Коко Шанель, работая над оригинальным твидовым жакетом, обращалась к униформе лифтера тирольского отеля, расположенного неподалеку от éальцбурга. Достаточно изучить каталог выставки «Мода эпохи Габсбургов», которая проходила

европейской истории, для которого были характерны и соответствующие одеяния и костюмы. Ярко представлен период Бидермейера и далее до правления Франца Иосифа I и Элизабет, последних из дома Габсбургов. Императрица Элизабет, она же Сиси, прославилась своей любовью к нарядам и красоте: она проводила по два-три часа в день в заботах о прическе и затягиваясь в кожаные корсеты. В наши дни Австрия по-прежнему влияет на современную моду. Например, культура страны стала источником вдохновения для дизайнера Олимпии Ле-Тан в работе над коллекцией осень/ зима 2013 Schnitzel with Noodles, в которой вошли фетровые шляпы, бриджи, накидки. Их силуэты позаимствованы у традиционных костюмов, и особого внимания достойны кожаные штаны ледерхозен для женщин с вырезами в форме сердец со стороны спины. На клатчах изображены образы из мюзикла «Звуки музыки» и других классических произведений. Может быть, Венская неделя моды еще и не получила такого признания, как фестивали в Париже, Лондоне, Нью-Йорке или Милане. Но едва ли страна может пожаловать на недостаток собственных талантов. Славная история моды Габсбургской империи не закончилась. Стиль бидермейер, с его globalblue.com

акцентом на чистых линиях и лаконичности в декоре, органично влился в движение баухаус. Небольшое количество украшений, сочетание самостоятельных предметов одежды, использование технологичных тканей – все это характерные черты стиля, пожалуй, самого известного австрийского дизайнера последних лет – Хельмута Ланга. В 1986 году он открыл линию под собственным именем, которая теперь принадлежит Prada Group. «Традиция, минимализм и лаконизм – первое, что приходит на ум в связи с австрийской модой», заявляют Франциска Фюрпасс и Сиа Кемани, основатели австрийской марки роскошной одежды и аксессуаров Femme Maison. Фюрпасс училась в Университете прикладных искусств Вены (Universität für angewandte Kunst Wien), у Рафа Симонса и Вероник Бранкиньо. Нельзя не сказать о дизайнере Изабель Стегер: она окончила тот же университет в 2009 и работала в Maison Martin Margiela, а также участвовала в разработке мужских коллекций Balenciaga и Jil Sander. Мартина Тифенталер тоже училась в Университете прикладных искусств и работала в Maison Martin Margiela, а затем заняла должность в парижском офисе Louis Vuitton. Недру Чачуа, недавнюю выпускницу,

журнал AnOther Magazine назвал «достойной внимания». «Модная сцена в Вене небольшая, но здесь есть очень талантливые и интересные дизайнеры, которые получают международное признание», говорит Чачуа. Знаменитый австрийский бренд Swarovski поставлял кристаллы для декора платьев Королевы Виктории, работал с Christian Dior над эффектом северного сияния, а в последнее время сотрудничал с Alexander McQueen, Philip Treacy, Hussain Chalayan, Erdem и Giles Deacon. Надя Сваровски, праправнучка основателя компании Даниэля Сваровски, приняла бразды правления в 1995 году. С тех пор она стала символом не только бренда, но, порой, и всей Австрии, поскольку регулярно появляется на званых вечерах и в списках самых стильно одетых людей. Вне сомнения, Каролин Сибер, а теперь Баронесса Каролин фон Вестенхольц, также намеревается сохранить позиции Вены на модной карте мира. «Например, она носит жакет Chanel одновременно стильно и умно», - считает Лонго. Что особенно приятно, и Сибер, и жакет родом из Австрии – страны с сильной модной традицией. olympialetan.com, femme-maison.com, isabellesteger.com, martinatiefenthaler.com, nedrachachoua.com

76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная

美文翻译

24: Future Focus

剑指未来

维也纳设计力量正飞速奔向21世纪，新一代青年先锋创意家们在城中各处留下印记。Sally McIlhone报道在维也纳的传统核心，正发生着一场趋向当代、前沿与设计主导的变革。现代精品店内陈列着做工精湛的产品与城中年轻创意家们别具匠心的作品，而 Blickfang 设计节则在潜移默化地鼓励着客人们从设计师手中直接购买家具、服装与珠宝新品。虽说还有不少人留恋过去，但正是维也纳的未来吸引着零售商与游客们。维也纳为寻觅当代时装设计的游客提供极度充裕的选择，无论他们偏爱的是顶尖品牌还是街头服饰。Mond schei n g a sse 街的 Pa rk 概念店 1 0 年来一直吸引着源源不断的客流，该店提供别具一格的品牌组合，从 Acne、Ann Demeulem e e s t e r到奥地利设计师G o n 与 Pelican Avenue。Park 的首席执行官 Helmut Ruthner 坚信，城中丰富的艺术活动，帮助该店吸引了许多设计爱好者。像是Viennafair、Curated By Vienna与维也纳设计周等活动，已成为备受推崇的国际知名盛事。对于Z o l l e r g a s s e大街上 Freaks & Icons 品牌的Mandarina Brausewetter而言，是一种想要打破传统的冲动，鼓励她在 20 05 年开设了被称为“维也纳首家非传统设计师店铺”。今日店内陈列着各式风格强烈的品牌，包括本土的Ruins of Modernity与Doychinoff 等，店内还为年轻设计师提供展示自己摩登设计的平台。 “我深谙街头艺术并成功创立了街头服饰品牌，将陈旧无趣的维也纳 globalblue.com

与大胆激进的年轻时尚相调和，在这里开店似乎是一件顺理成章的事，因为我深知这里的人们对于新鲜原创的渴求是如此强烈。”Brausewetter 解释道。F r e a k s & I c o n s 店铺通过推广本地设计造福当地设计群体，Brausewetter 认为其同样有助于提升这座城市的时尚感。 “我们正努力将维也纳装扮得更美，现在看上去每年都在变好 ”她说。在维也纳零售市场找到一处空白，同样也激励了Natalie Stando在Zollergasse大街上开设了自己的鞋履工作室Natalie Rox。在苦苦寻觅一双符合要求的婚鞋而难偿所愿后，Stando 产生了自己创业的念头— —“用合理的价格为客人提供鞋履定制服务”。现在她的顾客群体相当广泛，远及俄罗斯、法国和德国。 “维也纳过去并非以时装和设计闻名，但在过去几年中本土设计圈正在迅速壮大。”Stando解释岛。 “主要购物街附近的小街道很难被人发现。但购物导游们会为游客们提供私家情报，带领他们挖掘小路间隐藏的珍宝。”如果你也来维也纳，记得一定要越过 Golden U，去 Natalie Rox寻觅维也纳最新款鞋履。除了时装店铺，不少家居用品与设计精品店同样也贯彻着维也纳的新现代设计理念。Petersplat z 街上的 Stamm 概念店力图为维也纳提供多元化的设计风貌。通过和国际与奥地利当代家居设计师Tomas Feicht ner 等人合作，St a m m 致力于将自己打造成与城市中其他竞争对手截然不同、别具一格的店铺。 “人们总是来维也纳拜访我们独特的  “旧式”文化， ”Stamm 的总监 Marcus Fried 表示。 “但我认为维也纳正在当代设计方面迎头赶上，并且会在不久的将来成为有助于保持这座旅游城市水准的关键性因素。” 如果想要挑选新奇古怪的礼物与

室内装饰品，K irchengasse 街上的 Le Shop 不容错过。Heidi Stadler Wolffersgrün为您提供来自Fabrikett与Heartware品牌的奥地利珠宝，以及来自Goods and Better的文具。 “ 我觉得可以肯定的是，来维也纳的人们都对于艺术、建筑和现代设计有着极大的兴趣， ” Stadler-Wolfersgrün 解释道。 “这里有许多供文化爱好者们探索的地方——当代设计恰好是其中的一部分。” 想一览维也纳当代设计中最为大胆的部分，游客们必须前往每年一度的Blickfang活动。在这项刚在维也纳度过第十个年头的特别活动，时装、珠宝及家具设计师们直接向设计爱好者们销售自己的产品。 “与产品背后的设计主脑面对面、从设计师那里直接购买产品，非常符合今日消费者们的

需求， ”Blickfang首席执行官Jennifer Reaves如此坚信。她认为将维也纳的历史传统与摩登设计理念相结合，是这座城市的零售业未来成功的关键。 “ 维也纳拥有独一无二的创意氛围，在这里现代生活与传统手工艺相逢并相互得益。” ，Reaves  解释道。 “在维也纳有许多在制造设计类产品上具备卓越技术与竞争力的传统企业，像是 Lobmeyr 的玻璃制造商 Thonet，就经常与国际年轻设计师们进行合作。” 虽然走访维也纳的游客们依然会为维也纳国家歌剧院与Stefansdom 大教堂所赞叹，但此刻起他们也会开始在这座城市中发掘最新现代设计，一种新与旧的美满结合。 park.co.at, freaksandicons.com, natalie-rox.at, stamm.at, le-shop.at, blickfang.com

30: Austria’s Fashion Aristocrats

奥地利几百年来奠定的时尚遗产，至今仍颇具主流影响力，Fiona McKenzie Johnston为您解读

奥地利时尚贵族

globalblue.com

造型师、C h a n e l 形象大使 C a r o line Sieber与Fritz von Westenholz 这对奥地利夫妇于2013 年7月举行的婚礼，被英国每日电讯报称为“史上最时尚的婚礼” ，更在美国版 Vogue九月刊中占足九个版面的报道。 “这是全欧夏日社交活动中最精致典雅的一场， ”婚礼嘉宾、国际时尚与造型编辑 Gianluca Longo表示。 “婚礼具有外形最靓丽、最国际化的来宾阵容，并在最具浪漫气息的地点举行。”这个地点就是维也纳，这座奥地利首都也由此回归国际最热门城市榜单。新娘身穿C h a n e l定制礼服走上婚礼红毯，随后又换就一身 C h r i s t o ph e r K a n e 定制服。两件礼服都精美绝伦。然而在婚礼前夜，这对夫妇还举办了一场 t racht 晚会— —现场的所有来宾都身着奥地利传统服饰。Erdem、Christopher K a n e 、C h l o é 的 C l a r e Wa i g h t K e l l e r（她为 S i e b e r 的傧相与花童设计了服装）、L a u r e n S a n t o Domingo、Sieber 的前顾客 Emma Watson以及英国贵族Pippa Middleton 等人，全都换上了奥地利传统装束。 “奥地利向来都是一个时尚的国家，无论是男孩的皮裤还是女孩的紧腰宽裙— —当然奥地利出产的罗登呢大衣，也是全球几十年来不退流行的衣橱经典款。”Longo 评价道。事实上，Coco Chanel就是从萨尔茨堡附近的一名宾馆电梯操作员身上，获得了香奈儿斜纹软呢外套的灵感。只消扫一眼纽约大都会博物馆在1979 1980年举办的哈布斯堡王朝时尚展目录，就会了解奥地利始终时髦有加。那次展览集中展出了1 7 世纪至 1 9 16 年哈布斯堡帝国倒台的服饰，并追溯了哈布斯堡王朝的潮流

89 服装外形脱胎于德奥传统服饰，包括毡帽、马裤、披肩— —以及背后饰有心形镂空的女装皮裤。该系列中的手包还绘有德奥经典作品、音乐之声的图案。虽说维也纳时装周的影响力还无法与巴黎、伦敦、纽约和米兰齐肩，奥地利人的时尚天赋却同样不容忽视。哈布斯堡帝国的设计传统从未销声匿迹。强调简洁线条和最少装饰的比德迈风格，正暗合了包豪斯运动的主张。极简主义、解构服装以及对高科技面料的运用，成为近年来最知名奥地利时装设计师的注册商标：譬如 Helmut Lang，他在1986年推出了同名系列，其品牌现为Prada集团所有。 “传统、简约与低调是我们对奥

PHOTO: ROBERT FAIRER

风格演变，从长期统治的女皇 M a ria Theresa（她的女儿正是 Marie Antoinette，Karl Lagerfeld设计的 C h a nel 2 012 度假系列的灵感缪斯）— — 这是欧洲最浪漫的时期之一，时装与时尚也同时达到巅峰—— 经过比德迈时期，则进入了皇帝 Franz Joseph一世与皇后Elisabeth，即茜茜公主的时代，这位皇后以热衷时尚与美容而著名，她每天要花费两三个小时在打理发型、以及将身体塞进皮革紧身胸衣中。奥地利对于今日的时尚界仍颇具影响力。Olympia Le-Tan的2013秋/ 冬系列，Schnitzel with Noodles（炸牛排配面条），灵感就来自奥地利。

90 地利时尚的第一总体印象， ”奥地利奢侈女装及配饰品牌Femme Maison 的创始人 Fr a n zisk a F ü r pass 与Sia Kermani指出。 Fürpass 在维也纳应用艺术大学受训，并曾在 Raf Simons与Veronique Branqu i n ho 旗下工作。同样值得关注的还有 20 09 年从同一院校毕业的 Isabelle Steger，她为Maison Martin Margiela、Balenciaga与Jil Sander 男装线工作过。M a r t i n a Tiefen thaler同样就读于维也纳应用艺术大学，并在为Maison Martin Margiela 工作后，前往巴黎的 Louis Vuitton 任职。新进毕业生Nedra Chachoua 则被 AnOther杂志选为“值得关注的新星”。 “维也纳时装舞台虽小，却不乏才华出众、具有国际声誉的有趣设计师， ”Chachoua表示。著名的奥地利水晶品牌施华洛世奇，多年来为维多利亚女王的礼服提供装饰水晶，并与 C h r i s t i a n D i o r 合作推出模仿北极光效果的作品，还在最近与 A l ex a nd e r McQueen、Philip Treacy、Hussain Cha laya n 、E rdem 与 Gi les Deac o n 等品牌展开合作。公司创始人 Daniel Swarovski 的玄孙女Nadja Swa rovsk i，在 1955 年投身家族事业，已然成为品牌与奥地利的共同象征— —她是红地毯与最佳着装榜单的常客。毫无疑问Caroline Sieber，即现在的 Caroline von Westenholz 男爵夫人，也在奥地利时尚界占有一席之地。 “举例而言，她穿着Chanel外套的方式既酷又干练， ”Longo表示。需知 Sieber与这件外套同样源自于奥地利— — 一座有着坚实时尚基础的国度。 olympialetan.com, femme-maison.com, isabellesteger.com, martinatiefenthaler.com, nedrachachoua.com globalblue.com

76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（G l o b a l B l u e ）购物退税服务（ Ta x F r e e Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€75.01并且节约高达购买价格15%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。

The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best shopping streets, tax-free. Save up to 19%* at over 270,000 shops with Global Blue Tax Free Shopping. To fnd out more, just visit www.globalblue.com *

Local variations apply.

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‫والتبسيط وعدم التكلّف هي ركائز الزياء‬ ‫النمساويّة بشكلٍ عام‪ ".‬تعلّمت ‪ Fürpass‬ف‬ ‫جامعة فيينا للفنون التطبيقيّة عل يد ‪Raf‬‬ ‫‪ Simons‬و‪.Veronique Branquinho‬‬ ‫كم تجدر الشارة إل ‪Isabelle Steger‬‬ ‫التي تخ ّرجت من الجامعة نفسها سنة ‪2009‬‬ ‫وعملت مذّاك لدى ‪Maison Martin‬‬ ‫‪ Margiela‬و‪ Balenciaga‬و‪Jil Sander‬‬ ‫للملبس الرجاليّة‪ .‬درست ‪Martina‬‬ ‫‪ Tiefenthaler‬ف جامعة الفنون التطبيق ّية‬ ‫أيضا ً وعملت لدى ‪Maison Martin‬‬ ‫‪Margiela‬قبل أن تتو ّل منصباً لدى‬ ‫‪ Louis Vuitton‬ف باريس‪ .‬أ ّما الخريجة‬ ‫الجديدة‪ Nedra Chachoua‬فوصفتها‬ ‫مجلّة ‪ AnOther‬بـ "الجديرة باللحظة‪".‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ Chachoua‬ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬مجال‬ ‫الزياء ف فيينا ضيّق‪ ،‬لكن ث ّة بعض الص ّممي‬ ‫الوهوبي الثيين للهتمم والشهورين عل‬ ‫مستوى عالي‪".‬‬ ‫عل مدار سنوات‪ ،‬ابتكر دار الكريستال‬ ‫النمساوي الشهي ‪ Swarovski‬قطعاً من‬ ‫الكريستال لتزيي فساتي اللكة فكتوريا‬ ‫وعمل مع ‪ Christian Dior‬لبتكار ما‬ ‫يشبه الشفق القطبي الشمل وتعاون مؤخرا ً‬ ‫مع ‪ Alexander McQueen‬و‪Philip‬‬ ‫‪ Treacy‬و‪ Hussain Chalayan‬و‬ ‫‪ Erdem‬و‪ .Giles Deacon‬انض ّمت‬ ‫الؤسس‬ ‫‪ Nadja Swarovski‬حفيدة حفيد ّ‬ ‫‪ Daniel Swarovski‬إل الشكة سنة‬ ‫‪ 1995‬وباتت مذّاك من السمء البارزة ف‬ ‫العلمة التجاريّة والنمسا عل ح ّد سواء؛ غالباً‬ ‫ما تظهر عل الس ّجادة الحمراء وف قوائم‬ ‫التأنّقي‪ .‬ل ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن ‪،Caroline Sieber‬‬ ‫العروفة اليوم بالبارونة ‪Caroline von‬‬ ‫‪ ،Westenholz‬ستبقي النمسا عل خارطة‬ ‫الزياء‪ .‬يقول ‪" :Longo‬ترتدي ستة‬ ‫‪ Chanel‬عل سبيل الثال بطريقة مم ّيزة‬ ‫وذكيّة‪ ".‬النمسا هي موطن ‪ Sieber‬والستة‬ ‫وهو بلد مميّز بأزيائه‪.‬‬ ‫‪،olympialetan.com‬‬ ‫‪،femme-maison.com‬‬ ‫‪،isabellesteger.com‬‬ ‫‪، martinatiefenthaler.com‬‬

‫‪76: When You Shop The‬‬ ‫‪World, Shop Tax Free‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة‬ ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax‬‬ ‫‪ Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270, 000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق‬ ‫حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع‬ ‫خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪.1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪.2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل‬ ‫إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب خدمة الزبائن‬ ‫ّ‬

‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree @ globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €75.01‬وادّخر حتّى‬ ‫‪ 15%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ‬

‫الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع‬ ‫الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم‬ ‫إداري‪ . .‬ف بعض نقاط الستداد‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم إضاف محدّد عل كل طلب استداد‬ ‫ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد‬ ‫فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪nedrachachoua.com‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫نيويورك سنتي ‪ 1979‬و‪ 1980‬ليلحظ أنّه‬ ‫لطالا كانت النمسا متألّقة‪.‬‬ ‫ركّز العرض عل الفتة المتدّة بي القرن‬ ‫السابع عش وانهيار امباطوريّة هابسبورغ سنة‬ ‫‪ 1916‬وتت ّبع تط ّور السلوب الهابسبورغي‬ ‫من الحكم الطويل للمباطورة ‪Maria‬‬ ‫‪( Theresa‬والدة ‪Marie Antoinette‬‬ ‫التي استوحى منها ‪Karl Lagerfeld‬‬ ‫مجموعة ‪ – )Chanel 2012‬وهي من‬ ‫أكث الحقبات رومانس ّية ف التاريخ الوروب‬ ‫والتي تيّزت بلبس وأزياء ملئة‪ -‬مرورا ً‬ ‫بحقبة ‪ Biedermeier‬ووصولً إل حكم‬ ‫المباطور ‪ Franz Joseph I‬والمباطورة‬ ‫‪ Elisabeth‬وهم الحاكمن الخيان‬ ‫لمباطوريّة هابسبورغ‪ .‬اشتهرت المباطورة‬ ‫‪ Elisabeth‬العروفة بـ ‪ Sisi‬بولعها بالزياء‬ ‫والجمل إذ كانت تض ساعتي أو ثلث يوميّاً‬ ‫ف تصفيف شعرها ووضع مشدّها الجلدي‪.‬‬ ‫وما زال للنمسا تأثي عل أزياء اليوم‬ ‫إذ استوحت منها الص ّممة ‪Olympia‬‬ ‫‪ Le -Tan‬مجموعتها ‪Schnitzel with‬‬ ‫‪ Noodles‬لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ .2013‬ابتُكرت‬ ‫التصاميم من خلل تحديث ملبس نساويّة‬

‫ألانيّة وشملت قبّعات من اللّباد وساويل‬ ‫قصية وأوشحة وساويل جلديّة للنساء‬ ‫مع فتحات عل شكل قلب ف الخلف‪ .‬أ ّما‬ ‫حقائب الجموعة فتحمل صورا ً من فيلم‬ ‫‪ The Sound of Music‬وغيها من‬ ‫العمل الكلسيكيّة النمساويّة اللانيّة‪ .‬قد‬ ‫ل يحظى أسبوع فيينا للموضة بالهتمم‬ ‫نفسه كباريس ولندن ونيويورك وميلنو‪ ،‬لكن‬ ‫للمواهب النمساويّة وجود بارز‪ .‬تجدر الشارة‬ ‫إل أ ّن تاريخ التصميم الفريد من نوعه ف‬ ‫امباطوريّة هابسبورغ ل يزل‪ .‬استُخدم أسلوب‬ ‫‪ Biedermeier‬ف حركة الباوهاوس وتيّز‬ ‫بتكيزه عل الخطوط النظيفة والزخرفة‬ ‫البسيطة‪ .‬بالتال‪ ،‬بات التبسيط واللبس غي‬ ‫النجزة واستخدام القمشة العالية الجودة‬ ‫من م ّيزات أشهر مص ّمم أزياء نساوي ف‬ ‫الونة الخية وهو ‪ Helmut Lang‬الذي‬ ‫أطلق خطّه الذي يحمل إسمه سنة ‪1986‬‬ ‫وبات اليوم ِملك مجموعة ‪.Prada‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ Franziska Fürpass‬و‬ ‫مؤسستا الخ ّط النمساوي‬ ‫‪ّ ،Sia Kermani‬‬ ‫الفاخر للملبس النسائيّة والكسسوارات‬ ‫‪" :Femme Maison‬بالنسبة لنا‪ ،‬التاث‬

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‫‪30: Austria’s Fashion‬‬ ‫‪Aristocrats‬‬ ‫أرستقراط ّيو الزياء ف النمسا‬

‫حقّقت النمسا شهرة واسعة ف مجال الزياء‬ ‫منذ قرون ول زالت تحافظ عليها حتّى اليوم‪،‬‬ ‫تقرير ‪Fiona McKenzie Johnston‬‬ ‫وصفت الصحيفة البيطان ّية ‪Daily‬‬ ‫‪ Telegraph‬زفاف الثنائ النمساوي‬ ‫منسقة الزياء وسفية‬ ‫‪ّ ،Caroline Sieber‬‬ ‫‪ ،Chanel‬و‪Fritz von Westenholz‬‬ ‫الذي ت ّم ف تّوز‪/‬يوليو ‪ 2013‬بـ "الزفاف‬ ‫الكث مجارا ًة للموضة عل الطلق" وقد‬ ‫خصصت له تسع صفحات ف عدد أيلول‪/‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫سبتمب من مجلّة ‪ .Vogue US‬يقول أحد‬ ‫الدع ّوين إل الحفل‪Gianluca Longo ،‬‬ ‫وهو كاتب عالي ف مجال الزياء والسلوب‪:‬‬ ‫"شكّل الزفاف أحد أكث الناسبات الجتمعيّة‬ ‫الوروب ّية ت ّيزا ً وأناق ًة هذا الصيف‪ .‬حضه‬ ‫أكث الز ّوار تألّقاً وتعدّدا ً وأُقيم ف الكان الكث‬ ‫رومانس ّية‪ ".‬ذلك الكان هو فيينا وقد أعاد‬ ‫الزفاف العاصمة النمساويّة بق ّوة إل القائة‬ ‫العاليّة للماكن الميّزة‪.‬‬

‫)‪PHOTO: SIA KERMANI (FEMME MAISON‬‬

‫ببادئ التصميم العاص هو أساس نجاح قطاع‬ ‫التجارة ف الدينة مستقبلً‪ .‬تشح ‪Reaves‬‬ ‫قائلة‪" :‬تتمتّع فيينا بجال ابتكار مميّز‬ ‫بفضل التناغم بي أسلوب الحياة العاص‬ ‫والحرف اليدويّة التقليديّة واستفادتهم من‬ ‫بعضهم البعض‪ .‬تض ّم فيينا الكثي من الشكات‬ ‫التقليديّة التي تتمتّع بخبة وقدرة مميّزتي‬ ‫ف مجال تصنيع منتجات مبتكرة عل سبيل‬ ‫‪ ،Thonet‬مص ّنع زجاج ‪ ،Lobmeyr‬الذي‬ ‫عالي صاعدين‪".‬‬ ‫يعمل مع مص ّممي ّ‬ ‫قد يستم ّر السافرون بزيارة فيينا‬ ‫لرؤية دار الوبرا ‪Wiener Staatsoper‬‬ ‫وكاتدرائ ّية ‪ Stefansdom‬بشكلٍ خاص‪،‬‬ ‫لك ّنه حان الوقت ليطّلعوا أيضاً عل أحدث‬ ‫التصاميم العاصة التي تدمج بروعة بي‬ ‫القديم والجديد‪.‬‬ ‫‪،park.co.at ،freaksandicons.com‬‬ ‫‪،natalie-rox.at ،stamm.at‬‬ ‫‪le-shop.at ،blickfang.com‬‬

‫سارت العروس إل الذبح ف فستان‬ ‫‪ Chanel‬ومن ث ّم أطلّت بفستان ص ّممه‬ ‫‪ Christopher Kane‬لجلها وكان‬ ‫البتكاران رائعي‪ .‬إل أنّه ليل ًة قبل الزفاف‪،‬‬ ‫أقام الثنائ حفلة تقليديّة حيث ارتدى‬ ‫الدع ّوون اللّباس النمساوي التقليدي‪ .‬لذا‬ ‫ظهر بالطللة النمساويّة كل من ‪ Erdem‬و‬ ‫‪ Christopher Kane‬و‪Clare Waight‬‬ ‫‪ Keller‬من ‪( Chloé‬التي ابتكرت ملبس‬ ‫فتيات الزهور والفتيان ف حفل زفاف‬ ‫‪ )Sieber‬و‪Lauren Santo Domingo‬‬ ‫وزبونة ‪ Sieber‬السابقة ‪Emma‬‬ ‫‪ Watson‬والرستقراطيّة البيطانيّة ‪Pippa‬‬ ‫‪ .Middleton‬يقول ‪" :Longo‬لطالا كانت‬ ‫النمسا بلدا ً متألّقاً‬ ‫وبخاصة بالساويل الجلديّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التقليديّة للرجال والفساتي التقليديّة للنساء‬ ‫وبالطبع معطف اللودن النمساوي الذي اعتب‬ ‫لباساً كلسيكيّاً حول العال لعقود‪ ".‬استوحت‬ ‫‪ Coco Chanel‬ستة التويد الساسيّة من‬ ‫حمل من ولية ‪ Tyrol‬ف فندق بالقرب‬ ‫زي ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من ‪ .Salzburg‬يكفي أن يطّلع الشخص‬ ‫عل كاتالوج معرض ‪Fashions of the‬‬ ‫‪ Hapsburg Era‬الذي أُقيم ف متحف‬ ‫‪ Metropolitan Museum of Art‬ف‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫الص ّمي الشباب ليعرضوا أزياءهم العاصة‪.‬‬ ‫تشح ‪ Brausewetter‬قائلة‪" :‬با أنّني من‬ ‫التأث ّرين بف ّن الرصفة وقد ّأسست بنجاح‬ ‫مختصة بأزياء الشارع وبا أنّه‬ ‫علمة تجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لطالا اعتُبت فيي ّنا مكاناً غي ٍ‬ ‫مؤات لوضة‬ ‫مبتكرة شباب ّية جريئة‪ ،‬بدا من النطقي ل أن‬ ‫الاسة إل شء‬ ‫أفتتح محلً هنا حيث الحاجة ّ‬ ‫محل ‪Freaks & Icons‬‬ ‫جديد‪ ".‬يُفيد ّ‬ ‫الحل من خلل ترويج‬ ‫مجتمع الزياء ّ‬ ‫تصاميمه‪ ،‬كم تشعر ‪ Brausewetter‬أنّه‬ ‫ساهم ف الرتقاء بجال الزياء ف الدينة‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬نعمل جاهدين عل‬ ‫تعزيز مستوى الزياء ف فيينا ويبدو أ ّن‬ ‫يتحسن كل سنة‪".‬‬ ‫الوضع ّ‬ ‫كذلك وجدت ‪ Natalie Stando‬فجوة‬ ‫ف سوق فيينا ألهمتها لفتح مشغل أحذية‬ ‫‪ Natalie Rox‬ف شارع ‪.Zollergasse‬‬ ‫بعد أن عانت ف البحث عن حذاء بحسب‬ ‫ذوقها تنتعله ف زفافها‪ ،‬ابتكرت ‪Stando‬‬ ‫مفهوماً لتجرها وهو "تصميم أحذية بحسب‬ ‫الطلب وبأسعار معقولة‪ ".‬تقدّم اليوم هذه‬ ‫الخدمة لزبائن ذ ّواقي من بلدان تشمل‬ ‫روسيا وفرنسا وألانيا‪ .‬تقول ‪ Stando‬ف هذا‬ ‫الصدد‪" :‬ل تشتهر فيينا بالزياء والتصميم‬

‫من قبل‪ ،‬بل ازدهر مجال التصميم الحيوي‬ ‫فيها بسعة ف السنوات الخية‪ .‬يصعب‬ ‫إيجاد الحلت الصغية خارج شوارع التس ّوق‬ ‫الساسيّة‪ .‬لذا ترشد أدلّة التس ّوق السافرين إل‬ ‫محلت مخ ّبأة ف الشوارع الفرع ّية‪ ".‬ل تف ّوت‬ ‫فرصة استكشاف الشوارع خارج منطقة‬ ‫التس ّوق الراقية ‪ Golden U‬لتجد أحدث‬ ‫الحذية النمساويّة ف متجر ‪.Natalie Rox‬‬ ‫إل جانب محلت الزياء‪ ،‬تطبّق الكثي‬ ‫من محلت اللّوازم النزل ّية والتصميم فلسفة‬ ‫التصميم العصي الجديدة التي تعتمدها‬ ‫التخصص‬ ‫فيينا‪ .‬عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬يسعى التجر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Stamm‬ف شارع ‪ Petersplatz‬إل‬ ‫تنويع مجال التصميم ف فيينا‪ .‬بالتعاون‬ ‫مع مص ّممي لوازم منزليّة معاصين عاليي‬ ‫ونساويي‪ ،‬يهدف ‪ Stamm‬إل التم ّيز عن‬ ‫باقي التاجر ف الدينة‪ .‬يقول الدير الداري‬ ‫‪" :Marcus Fried‬لطالا جذبت فيينا‬ ‫السافرين بفضل ثقافتها "القدية" الفريدة‬ ‫من نوعها‪ .‬أعتقد أ ّن فيننا تواكب التصاميم‬ ‫العصيّة ومن اله ّم أن تحافظ ف الستقبل عل‬ ‫معيار السياحة العالية الجودة‪".‬‬ ‫أ ّما متجر ‪ Le Shop‬ف شارع‬ ‫‪ ،Kirchengasse‬فل ب ّد لح ّبي الهدايا‬ ‫والكسسوارات الداخليّة من زيارته‪ .‬تعرض‬ ‫صاحبته ‪Heidi Stadler -Wolfersgrün‬‬ ‫مجوهرات نساويّة من ‪ Fabrikett‬و‬ ‫‪ Heartwear‬وقرطاسيّة من ‪Goods and‬‬ ‫‪ .Better‬تقول ‪Stadler -Wolfersgrün‬‬ ‫ف هذا السياق‪" :‬ل ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن ز ّوار فيينا‬ ‫يحبّون الفن والهندسة والتصميم العاص‪.‬‬ ‫لديها الكثي من المور تقدّمها إل الهت ّمي‬ ‫بالثقافة وما التصميم العاص إل جزء من‬ ‫ذلك‪ ".‬للطّلع عل أجرأ ابتكارات التصميم‬ ‫العاص‪ ،‬عل الز ّوار التو ّجه إل معرض‬ ‫‪ Blickfang‬السنوي‪ .‬مؤخّرا ً احتفل هذا‬ ‫الحدث الفريد من نوعه بعيد تأسيسه‬ ‫العاش ف فيينا وهو يتيح الفرصة أمام‬ ‫مص ّممي الزياء والجوهرات والثاث لبيع‬ ‫ابتكاراتهم مباش ًة إل لح ّبي التصميم‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫‪ Jennifer Reaves‬الديرة التنفيذيّة لدى‬ ‫‪" :Blickfang‬يهت ّم زبائن اليوم إل ح ّد‬ ‫كبي بلقاء الص ّمم الذي ابتكر النتج وشائه‬ ‫منه مباشةً‪ ".‬تعتقد أ ّن دمج إرث فيينا‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪24: Future Focus‬‬

‫التكيز عل الستقبل العاص‬

‫يدخل مجتمع التصميم ف فيينا القرن الواحد‬ ‫والعشين بسع ٍة نتيجة تألّق مجموعة جديدة‬ ‫من البتكرين الشباب البدعي ف الدينة‪.‬‬ ‫تقرير ‪Sally McIlhone‬‬ ‫تشهد فيينا التقليديّة ف الصميم حركة انتقاليّة‬ ‫نحو العصيّة والبتكار والتصميم‪ .‬تعرض‬ ‫مجموعة من الحلت العصيّة منتجات غاية‬ ‫ف الروعة وأزياء مبتكرة من تصميم البدعي‬ ‫الشباب الحيويّي ف الدينة‪ .‬يش ّجع معرض‬ ‫التصميم ‪ Blickfang‬الز ّوار عل شاء‬ ‫أحدث قطع الثاث واللبس والجوهرات‬ ‫مباش ًة من الص ّمم‪ .‬وبالرغم من تجيد كثيين‬ ‫للمض‪ ،‬يلفت الستقبل أنظار ت ّجار فيينا‬ ‫وز ّوارها عل ح ّد سواء‪.‬‬ ‫تقدّم فيننا الكثي إل السافرين الباحثي‬ ‫عن تصاميم أزياء عصيّة‪ ،‬إن كانوا يفضّ لون‬ ‫العلمات التجاريّة النخبويّة أو ملبس موضة‬

‫الشارع‪ .‬منذ عش سنوات وحتّى يومنا هذا‪،‬‬ ‫التخصص ‪ The Park‬ف شارع‬ ‫يلفت التجر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Mondscheingasse‬زبائنه بجموعة من‬ ‫العلمات التجاريّة الختارة‪ ،‬من ‪ Acne‬و‬ ‫‪ Ann Demeulemeester‬ومص ّممي‬ ‫نساويّي مثل ‪ Gon‬و‪.Pelican Avenue‬‬ ‫يعتقد ‪ ،Helmut Ruthner‬الدير التنفيذي‬ ‫لتجر ‪ Park‬أ ّن النشاطات الفن ّية الكثية ف‬ ‫الدينة تساعد عل جذب ز ّوار أكث اهتمماً‬ ‫بالتصميم‪" .‬ف السنتي أو الثلثة الخية بشكلٍ‬ ‫خاص‪ ،‬باتت فيينا مركزا ً مطلقاً لحبّي الفن‬ ‫والتصميم‪ .‬بالتال‪ ،‬لقت بعض الناسبات مثل‬ ‫‪ Viennafair‬و‪ Curated By Vienna‬و‬ ‫‪ Vienna Design Week‬احتاماً واسع‬ ‫النطاق وشهرة عاليّة‪".‬‬ ‫رغبت ‪Mandarina Brausewetter‬‬ ‫من متجر ‪ Freaks & Icons‬ف شارع‬ ‫‪ Zollergasse‬بكس التقاليد فافتتحت ما‬ ‫تصفه بـ "العنوان ال ّول ف فيينا لتصميم‬ ‫الزياء الخارجة عن الألوف" سنة ‪.2005‬‬ ‫يشمل التجر اليوم مجموعة رائعة من‬ ‫العلمات التجاريّة با فيها العلمتي التجاريّتي‬ ‫الحليّتي ‪ Ruins of Modernity‬و‬ ‫منصة إل‬ ‫‪ Doychinof‬بالضافة إل توفي ّ‬

‫‪PHOTO: KaTHarina rOssbOTH‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

WIEN · SALZBURG · ZELL AM SEE · GRAZ · LINZ · KLAGENFURT · SPITTAL INNSBRUCK · WÖRGL · VELDEN · VILLACH · WELS · TELFS · VÖLS · KREMS ST. PÖLTEN · RIED · BREGENZ · BÜRS · OUTLET PARNDORF

98 | P RO D U C T S

LOBMEYR Founded in 1823, this familyowned Viennese glassworks draws on six generations of research into the properties of crystal. This dedication and the resulting expertise have made Lobmeyr creations highly revered and sought after, renowned for their elegance and exquisite craftsmanship. Throughout the past two centuries Lobmeyr has moved with the times, letting cultural developments infuence its designs to refect the wants and needs of its clientele. For example, Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 76

in 1883 Lobmeyr delivered the frst electric chandelier to Viennaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imperial palace. Today the company ofers a full range of forwardthinking contemporary designs and archive-inspired creations, catering to the broad and expanding tastes of consumers and collectors around the world and frequently collaborating with leading artists, architects and designers. A purchase from this establishment will encompass both beauty and value for years to come. gl Lobmeyr, KĂ¤rntner Strasse 26, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 0508, lobmeyr.at for map go to page 46

PHOTO: TinO ValenTiniTScH

Postcard

INNSBRUCK KITZBÜHEL KLAGENFURT SALZBURG WIEN

cartier.at

A m u l e t t e d e C A RtIeR

Unlo ck yo ur wish

Wien - Kohlmarkt 1 - Tel. + 43 (0) 1 533 224 60