SHOP Belgium SS14

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Have a look at the biggest dep

Galeria Inno, more than 600 brands • Galeria

Inno Brussels - rue Neuve 111 - 1000 Brussels Inno Bascule - ch. de Waterloo 699 - 1180 Brussels • Galeria Inno Louise - av. Louise 12 - 1050 Brussels • Galeria Inno Woluwe - av. Paul Hymans 150 - 1200 Brussels • Galeria


artment store in Belgium.

www.inno.be

under one roof. • Galeria

Inno Antwerpen - Meir 80-82 - 2000 Antwerpen Inno Brugge - Steenstraat 11 - 8000 Brugge • Galeria Inno Namur - pl. d’Armes 17 - 5000 Namur • Galeria Inno Oostende - Kapellestraat 18 - 8400 Oostende • Galeria






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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus ILLUSTRATION: pAUL x jOhNSON

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Руководство Германия

Welcome to Belgium

Gothenburg Hamburg

This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Belgium has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile app is another great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 25. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers

Vilnius

/globalblue

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@GlobalBlue

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@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue



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Ray Oranges Ray Oranges created the cover illustration for this season’s edition of SHOP Belgium. His graphic artwork has previously been commissioned by Wallpaper, DDB NY and Il Sole 24 Ore, among others. His use of colour and bold shapes makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about the many facets of Belgian jewellery design on page 28. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: SAM NAgeLe

ILLUSTRATION: RAy ORANgeS @ MACHAS

Contributors

Grace Bird After working in theatre, Grace Bird joined SHOP as picture assistant, where her role involves taking photographs for the print and online editions. She loves all kinds of art and craft, and can often be found doing origami or knitting in her bonsai garden. She also enjoys travelling, something that inspires her unique style. globalblue.com

Frances Wasem Frances Wasem is assistant fashion features editor and Flash editor at Harper’s Bazaar magazine, and has also written for Stella magazine and the Times. She has interviewed fashion icons from Christian Louboutin to the corset maker Mr Pearl and flm stars including Lauren Bacall, Lauren Hutton, Ali MacGraw and Jane Fonda.



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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Ray Oranges @ Machas Contributor Frances Wasem Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shin Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E BELGI UM Regional manager for Benelux Marja van Reijn Marketing manager Kathy van Haaren Customer relations Carla Maes, Ilse Vanachter Account managers Jennifer de Vos, Sophie Herkenne, Kim Joostens Global Blue Belgium, Lambroekstraat 5C, B-1831 Diegem, Belgium

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue



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Contents

PHOTO: Inga POWIlleIT

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P ro d u c t s 16 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Belgium this season 18 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 22 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Belgium 24 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F e At u r e s 28 Cover Story: The Future’s Bright Belgium’s cutting-edge designers are taking its jewellery business in surprising directions, as Frances wasem explains 34 Weaving Stories traditional Flemish tapestry has a long history – and is still infuencing the fashion world today, discovers stephen doig

e x Pe r i e Nce 40 Raising The Bar A night out in Belgium ofers plenty of variety, says Verity Hogan Gu i de 45 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Brussels, Antwerp and Bruges, plus sHoP’s unique view of Belgium’s sights esseNtiA ls 62 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r A N s l At i o N s 64 Русский Перевод 68 美文翻译 70 日本語翻訳 sou V e N i r 74 the essential item to bring home

Above: Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix are two of Belgium's most inspiring jewellery designers


D-Brilliant Cuts™ invented by master Polisher Hedwig Smets and is a registered Trademark owned by Dayekh Gems™ bvba

The Lotus Collection Appelmansstraat 25 box 23-26, 2018 Antwerp Belgium tel: +32 (0)3 226 11 91 | fax: +32 (0)3 226 21 57 | e-mail: info@dayekh.com


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Check Out

SITTING PRETTY This spring brings a very special homeware collaboration between Belgium’s Raf Simons and Kvadrat, the Danish textile company founded in 1968. Simons, who was originally an industrial designer before switching to fashion, has previously shown his collections among works by Prouvé and Calder and is known to be a passionate collector of 20thcentury furniture and ceramics. The exclusive collection is designed with longevity in mind Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62

and includes upholstery fabrics which the designer describes as ‘blank canvases’, as well as a select number of fnished products. These versatile cushions are available in three diferent sizes for seating, beds and even the foor, and there are also throws, all in complementary tones and made with fne mohair and merino lambswool – ideal for adding high-impact fnishing touches to any interior. df Raf Simons x Kvadrat cushions, from €110, Donum, Hopland 47, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 3918, kvadratrafsimons.com


GAUTAM D IA M ON D S & J EW EL S 12, G r A N D P L A c E , 1 0 0 0 B rU S S E L S | 4 5 , r U E D E L ’E T U v E , 1000 B rU S S E L S B rU S S E L S A I r P O rT , T E r M I N A L S A A N D B


18 | P RO D U C T S

DAYDREAM DRESSING

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Revive daytime dressing with smart tailoring, bold print and statement accessories 1

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1. Giovane trousers, €149, Twin, 519 rue Léopold Ier, 1090 Brussels, +32 (0)2 426 8888, giovane.be

3. Brantano loafers, €69.95, Brantano, Legeweg 152, 8200 Bruges, +32 (0)50 317506, brantano.be

2. Ray-Ban glasses, €156, Brillenmarkt, Schuttershofstraat 18, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 9857, rayban.com

4. Pinko jacket, €460, Pinko, Huidevettersstraat 42A, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0006, pinko.it

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62

PHOTO: (2) FRANCO PIZZOCHERO/ALESSANDRA MAGISTER

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S H O P | 19

GONE FISHING All you need for relaxed summer dressing is easy layers and cheerful prints

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1. Brax shirt, €59.95, Brax, Schoenmarkt 10, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 225 1015, brax.com

3. Gaastra swimming trunks, €59.95, Gaastra, Schoenmarkt 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 707 0372, gaastra.eu

2. Ben Sherman wallet, €39.90, Brooklyn, Noordzandstraat 50, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 333143, bensherman.com

4. Fred Perry cardigan, €130, Fred Perry Authentic, Huidevettersstraat 54, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 770 6757, fredperry.com

globalblue.com


20 | P RO D U C T S

SUNNY DISPOSITION This season’s dress is a 1960s-inspired shift – just add shades, classic sandals and denim

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1. Lee Cooper denim jacket, €89.95, Lynel, 98 chaussée d’Ixelles, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 1304, leecooper.com

3. Persol sunglasses, €238, Meeussen Galerie Optiek, Nieuwe Gaanderij 38-40, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 4837, persol.com

2. Laidback London sandals, €79.95, Marcoz, Korte Gasthuisstraat 4-6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 227 0244, laidbacklondon.com

4. Julia June dress, €449, Damoy, Groendalstraat 24, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 288 0458, juliajune.be

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62

PHOTO: (3) FRANCO PIZZOCHERO

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BRUXELLES • ANVERS • BRUGGE


22 | N E W S

Shop Window

FASHION GALAXY Concept store Hunting and Collecting has had a total dĂŠcor overhaul for 2014 based on an intergalactic theme, Where No Store Has Gone Before. In the past it updated its look every six months, but has recently switched to yearly redesigns in order to present a more holistic experience. The newly revamped interior is a futuristic space of bright lights, bright whites and metals, Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62

the perfect backdrop for a collection that follows similar themes. The brand list is a careful mix of big names and less familiar labels, curated precisely, so that Carven and Kenzo sit happily alongside oferings from young brands such as Wood Wood. When it comes to a total retail experience, Hunting and Collecting has few rivals in Brussels. hl Hunting and Collecting, 17 rue des Chartreux, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 7477, huntingandcollecting.com * for map go to page 50



24 | N E W S

MoVing on UP Belgian brand niyona has a modern aesthetic, producing beautiful accessories inspired by the mobile nature of contemporary life. in its new hello James store, designed to be a place where people can see a new side of the brand, visitors can experience the manufacturing process as well as shopping the collection. along with niyona’s main line and the limited-edition collaborative projects for which the brand has become known, hello James stocks pieces by other labels with the same passion for mobility and for ethical production. hl Niyona/Hello James, 86 rue de Laeken, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)472 258299, niyona.be

In brief:

PHOTO: Daniil lavrOvSki

— If you’re passing through Brussels airport, be sure to pay a visit to the newly opened Jo Malone boutique, which stocks a wide range of the British fragrance house’s beautiful offerings

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62


n e W S | 25

SHOP THE WORLD

SerViCe With a SMiLe the Lodge Bruges specialises in timeless menswear and brings traditional standards of quality and service into the modern day. inspired by a love of original clothing and accessories, the store ofers a number of brands which are unavailable elsewhere in the city, such as red Wing Shoes and Pace jeans. Fashion experts are on hand to give personal advice to customers. hl The Lodge Bruges, Langestraat 50, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 348340, thelodgebruges.com globalblue.com

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store


26 | N E W S

LIGHT AND SHADE

PHOTO: Blueclic.cOm/G miclOTTe

Luggage brand Rimowa has opened its frst Belgian concept store in the city of Antwerp. Rimowa is known for its simple design, which avoids gimmicks and focuses on genuine quality. The brand’s concept stores have an all-white palette that allows the products to be seen more clearly. In contrast to this bright space, the area displaying the brand’s more luxurious range is charcoal grey, letting the cases truly shine. hl Rimowa, Leopoldstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 234 3220, rimowa.com

ONE FOR ALL With its combination of fashion, beauty, design and food, it’s little wonder that Smets is one of Brussels’ best-loved stores. The spacious interior ofers a skilful edit of pieces from collections Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62

by Givenchy, Kenzo, Balenciaga and Tom Ford, among others, along with interior design brands such as Hay and Fritz Hansen. Be sure to visit the stylish restaurant, Bowery. irs Smets, 650-652 chaussée de Louvain, 1030 Brussels, +32 (0)2 325 1230, smets.lu



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Above: Tine de Ruysser copper and polyester origami cape


S H O P | 29

THE FUTURE’S BRIGHT A new generation of cutting-edge designers is taking Belgium’s jewellery business in surprising – and inspiring – directions, as Frances Wasem explains

Belgium has been known as a hub of cutting-edge creativity and innovative design since the Antwerp Six shot to fame in the 1980s with their radical vision of fashion. Since then the country has produced a wealth of talent, from the visionary Martin Margiela and the romantic Olivier Theyskens to Raf Simons and the Antwerp-trained duo behind Peter Pilotto. Belgium’s fashion designers are, it seems, united by a desire to push artistic and technical boundaries. Until recently, though, its jewellers appeared to maintain a more classic aesthetic. Antwerp has been a centre of the diamond trade for centuries, and the shops of respected jewellery houses such as Manalys glitter with precious stones like an Aladdin’s cave. However, increasingly even the heritage names are exploring a more avant-garde approach. Baunat, for instance, has collaborated on a line with Wouters & Hendrix, another Belgian success story from the 1980s, as it does on a regular basis with other locally based designers such as Anne Zellien and Elke Peeters.


As well as jewellery shops, the streets of Belgian cities are lined with art galleries exhibiting cutting-edge ‘art’ jewellery such as that designed by Tine de Ruysser, who uses both traditional and computer-based techniques. The wearable origami cape made of copper and polyester that she produced as part of her PhD course at London’s Royal College of Art in 2009 wouldn’t be out of place in an Ann Demeulemeester catwalk show. Art galleries commission some of her conceptual pieces and her ‘bank note’ jewellery – striking chokers and cufs woven out of euros and rupees – was displayed at her 2012 solo exhibition, Beyond Fashion, in glass cases. Above (clockwise from top lef): Tine de Ruysser ‘bank note’ jewellery; Wouters & Hendrix silver summer 2014 collection; designers Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix; Hilde Van Belleghem ring

PHOTO (BOTTOM): lIeVen HeRReMan

30 | F E AT U R E S


PHOTO: Inga POWIlleIT

S H O P | 31

Exploring the unexpected is a key element of Belgian design Hilde Van Belleghem also studied at Antwerp’s Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten (Royal Academy of Fine Art). Van Belleghem has an atelier in the city and has worked with De Beers on yellow-gold and diamond collections. She also designs more surprising pieces, such as Angel, a pendant made out of silver, china, feathers and sealing wax. Exploring the unexpected is a key element of Belgian design, as is making jewellery emotive. Anne Zellien’s jewellery – inspired by her love of nature and all things vintage – incorporates both. She works with diamonds, pearls and semi-precious gems which she combines, surprisingly, with ceramics. Her ‘In nature we trust’

rabbit pendant is roughly hewn out of silver, with a pearl-covered cross nestling next to the silver rabbit. This is a tactile, emotive piece that you will want to hand down to your daughter. Using classic materials and methods in novel ways is at the heart of the approach of the new generation of designers. Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix – also graduates of Antwerp’s infuential royal academy – studied goldsmithing, and now have a fagship store selling silver, gold and diamond-based pieces. ‘We aim to produce something that is humorous, classic and yet obstinate,’ explains Wouters, who feels their pieces have ‘an emotional value which we hope resonates


32 | F E AT U R E S

For innovative, trailblazing jewellery, Belgium is a veritable treasure trove

with customers’. The design duo translates ancient craft techniques such as plique-à-jour, in which enamel is applied to a gold or silver fligree framework, into pieces that look as if they have tumbled out of a particularly fantastical curiosity shop. Atelier 11, a design studio set up by Flor Janssens and Ludovik Colpaert, is equally determined to challenge the usual view of jewellery design. ‘People still think

of jewellery in terms of gold, silver, diamonds and pearls,’ states Colpaert. The designers apply ‘artjewellery’ techniques to afordable, fashion pieces. ‘We want to be experimental, yet also commercial,’ continues Colpaert. The collections include simple, playful silver pieces with the occasional burst of colour in the form of powder coating, which has become an Atelier 11 trademark. Its designs have won it fans in the fashion world: it can boast collaborations with Martin Margiela, Victor & Rolf, AF Vandevorst and Raf Simons. Blending timeless traditions and new techniques creates an organic quality, a depth and, indeed, a darkness, which is uniquely Belgian. For the fashion enthusiast who wants to eschew the standard diamonds and pearls and embrace jewellery that’s altogether more trailblazing and innovative, Belgium is a veritable treasure trove baunat.com, tinederuysser.com, hildevanbelleghem.be, annezellien.be, wouters-hendrix.com, atelierelf.com

Above: Anne Zellien ‘In nature we trust’ rabbit pendant necklace



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S H O P | 35

WEAVING STORIES

PHOTO: JEREMIE LECONTE

Traditional Flemish tapestry has a long and illustrious history – and an ever-growing infuence on the world of modern fashion, says Stephen Doig

There are certain aspects of Belgium’s cultural history that, despite seeming thoroughly at odds with the cut and thrust of the 21st-century catwalk, have somehow worked their way into the modern wardrobe. And the results aren’t as jarring as you’d perhaps expect. Global designers such as Valentino, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton have previously mined the shapes, brooding colours and traditional 66 / 72

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costume touches in famous Flemish works of art. So it’s not surprising if tapestry, that most famous of Belgian crafts, is constantly being reinvented and applied to the most innovative and cutting-edge of fashion pieces. The art of tapestry – textiles woven in a particular way to create pleasing images – dates back several thousand years; remnants from ancient Greek times still survive. In Europe’s Middle Ages, no Lef: Dries Van Noten menswear spring/summer 2014


aristocratic interior was complete without its set of hangings, which served the dual purpose of decoration and insulation. To begin with, the fnest work came from Arras in northern France, but by the 16th century it was the weavers of Flanders who had become the acknowledged masters of the intricate technique. Over the years they produced an array of tapestries which are as fne as any work of art on canvas, showing everything from pastoral scenes to episodes from classical myths and history. Collectors – and the antiques world in general – continue to set great store by traditional tapestry pieces, but as an art form it has long been regarded as slightly dated. Which is why its emergence

PHOTO: FeuDiGuAineri.cOm

PHOTO: AlessAnDrO luciOni

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The recent emergence of tapestry in fashion culture is striking

in fashion culture is all that more striking. Designers from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino, Balmain to Rag & Bone and a host of others have used the aesthetics of tapestry to conjure up richly textured pieces on the catwalk. Dolce & Gabbana used it to grand efect against sheer or lace fabrics to

Above (from lef): Valentino; Dolce & Gabbana (both spring/summer 2014)



PHOTO: CATWALKING.COM

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give a peek-a-boo efect: tapestry brought right up to date by giving it a sensual spin. At Louis Vuitton, a previous collaboration between the label’s menswear director Kim Jones and artists Jake and Dinos Chapman led to tapestry efects being applied to louche dressing gowns and evening jackets, with contemporary cartoon fgures hidden in the detailed patterns. Another designer who has reinterpreted the language of traditional Flemish tapestry to create avantgarde fashion is Dries Van Noten. Having previously used it on coats and dresses (either with needlepoint embroidery or by applying the image on to fabric by way of a

print), Van Noten has also worked it into his spring/summer 2014 menswear ofering. This includes lavish, evocative tapestry designs over sports vests and jackets, the dark brooding foral designs and accents of gold brilliantly replicating the kind of tapestry one might see hanging in Tournai’s Musée de

Above (from lef): Jonathan Saunders; Dries Van Noten; Christopher Kane (all spring/summer 2014); Louis Vuiton menswear autumn/winter 2013/14


S H O P | 39

Flemish tapestry has never looked so inviting or so inventive la Tapisserie, with sporty accents – football-style numbers, zips, slick cuts and webbing – for a 21stcentury spin. The womenswear collection for spring might not be so explicitly infuenced by tapestry, but there are accents popping up in the form of embroidered vest tops and jackets, and dark foral shapes

climbing on a muted backdrop on coats and dresses. Tapestry-like touches also crop up in Christopher Kane’s botany lesson of a collection, which features stitched and embroidered fora on sheer skirts. There are garlands of needlepoint fowers on bomber jackets and dresses at Jonathan Saunders, and Valentino’s folkloric ofering have accents of tapestry efect. It all serves to bring a classical element to contemporary style: an old-fashioned craft applied to the present day. It also allows for experimentation in colour and print, and gives texture to fat fabrics; Flemish tapestry never looked so inviting or so inventive


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Raising the BaR Despite the country’s worldwide reputation for producing Europe’s best beer, there is much more to Belgium’s bar culture than the frothy beverage. Verity Hogan explores a selection of the country’s best options

Beer is Belgium’s most famous export; the country has enjoyed an unparalleled reputation for producing speciality beers since the Middle Ages and now ofers more than 450 diferent varieties. Many are served in a particular glass with shapes designed to enhance the favours of each individual beer. Belgium’s landscape is ideally suited to growing barley and hops, while its high-quality water is also an essential component. As well as beer, Belgium produces its own grainbased spirit, which can be served straight in small quantities or faglobalblue.com

voured with juniper, coriander and other herbs and spices. Every Belgian city has a distinctive nightlife culture; Brussels’ central location makes it popular with festival organisers and international musicians, while more than 80 bars of varying size and style ofer an appealing alternative. Antwerp has a similarly vibrant bar scene with a wealth of variety; options range from casual street cafés to bistros, beer cellars and taverns. Bruges ofers the most sedate nightlife, centred on pubs and bars rather than late-night clubs.


S H O P | 41

NocturNE

PHOTO: GreG Van Oz

one of Belgium’s most atmospheric bars, Nocturne is located within one of medieval Bruges’ oldest cellars. Despite its setting, just a short walk from the city’s main market,

the bar feels like a private hideaway with its low lighting and wealth of original features. the bar also hosts regular live music events. Nocturne, Wollestraat 29D, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)486 790216, nocturne-brugge.be

c o c k tA i l s At N i N E With its exposed brick walls and earth-toned sofa seating, cocktails at Nine’s contemporary interior ofers a stark contrast to the 200-year-old building in which it’s

located. the bar’s menu is equally inventive, with the staf as confdent creating their own mixes as they are at perfecting the classics. Cocktails at Nine, lijnwaadmarkt 9, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 707 1007, cocktailsatnine.be


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L’A r c h i d u c With its art deco interior and regular live jazz performances, L’Archiduc is an archetypal 1930s drinking den. This popular bar has a host of original features,

SipS Antwerp’s Sips bar is known for maintaining the highest standards in its drinks menu, service and ambience. Every cocktail uses premium spirits and fresh ingredients, globalblue.com

including a high-domed ceiling, half-moon balcony and cast-iron door, dating back to 1937, while its drinks menu is large and diverse. L’Archiduc, 6 rue Antoine dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 0652, archiduc.net

skilfully mixed. Guests are sure to be impressed by the way that classic cocktail recipes have been updated to suit 21st-century tastes. Sips, Gillisplaats 8, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 257 3959, sips-cocktails.com



The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save

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*Subject to local conditions.


G U I D E | 45

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar country is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Belgium with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com


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SNAPSHOTS OF A COUNTRY

PHOTOS: @ANDREWSKIRSTY; @DOmINIquEFENN

‘Alongside its chocolate, beer and moules-frites, Belgium ofers rich culture and spectacular landscapes’ – Kirsty Andrews, assistant picture editor, SHOP

globalblue.com


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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @globalblue. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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S H O P | 49

DelBôve CosmeTiCs Delbôve Cosmetics’ fagship store echoes the way the company combines scientifc advancements with natural ingredients in its product range, resulting in an interior that resembles a luxurious laboratory. The brand launched with a range of complementary products designed to maintain the skin’s healthy balance. There is one to solve every imaginable skin concern, from purifying cleansers to an-

ti-ageing serums, all packaged in vintage-style bottles designed by Christophe Rémy. Delbôve Cosmetics, 67 rue de l’Abbaye, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 648 0449, delbove-cosmetics.com

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Shopping Centre


50 | G U I D E

KURE Despite opening only recently, Kure concept store has quickly become a popular meeting place for Brussels’ fashion elite. A premium multi-brand boutique, accessory specialist, industrial furniture supplier and art gallery in one, Kure is a unique addition to the city’s shopping scene. Brands include some of the world’s most alluring labels; expect pieces by Vanessa Bruno, BLK DNM, Carin Wester and Won Hundred to be among the carefully edited range.

Kure, 48 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 265 1217, kureconceptstore.com

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SHOP Recommendation

Featured In This Issue


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Since Mary Delluc opened her frst chocolate emporium in 1919, her name has become synonymous with refned elegance. The Mary boutique in rue Royale has an art deco interior, complemented by intricate product displays and rich swathes of fabric, while every

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chocolate purchased is presented in handcrafted boxes covered in plain silk. Everything is made using traditional methods and the fnest raw materials; the expansive range includes pralines, caramels and fresh creams. Mary, 73 rue Royale, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 217 4500, mary.be

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54 | G U I D E

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DAVID MAYER ● GARDE-ROBE NATIONALE ●

● REPLAY SAM FRIDAY ● ALL SAINTS INTIMATES ● ● FITTZ LEE ● ● LEVI’S FISH & CHIPS ● HEAVER ● PLAYLIFE PLAYGROUND ● ● ADIDAS PEPE JEANS ● ● ANN ZELIEN SACHA ● ● VANS MONIQUE STAM ● ● RINGS & THINGZ ESSENTIEL OUTLET ● VIER ● UB X-TREME ● ZAPPA ● NATHALIE VLEESCHOUWER ● FRAGILE ●

Huidevettersstr. & Lange Gasthuisstraat

Komedieplaats & Korte Gasthuisstraat

EMBOSS TIMEWEAR ● BIJORCA ●

NARA CAMICIE ● PRINCESS BLUE ● ● PRINCESS BLUE LILITH ● ● CHARLOTTE ● WILLEM BOUTIQUE OLIVIER ● DR ADAMS DELFORGES ● ● MAC BEOSTORE ● ● TARACCI

● 7 CAMICE ● HUGO BOSS

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BANANA MOON ● PANDORA ● DODE ZEE COSMETICS ●

● GRAND OPTICAL ● UNICA VERA ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● MINELLI ● XANDRES ● MAX MARA ● CNB/CKS ● ELÉGANCE ● GERRY WEBER ● CLAUDIA STRÄTER ● LACOSTE ● NESPRESSO ● ZARA JODENSTRAAT ● RIVER WOODS ● HUGO BOSS ● SUBDUED ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● GUCCI

AMSTERDAM'S BLAUW ● MARCOZ ● HAMPTON BAYS ● CKS ● COS ● DE GROENE WOLK ● IITTALA ● NICO TAEYMANS ● FALKE ● SUPERTRASH ● STATE OF ART ●

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DE MA ● GILOU GI 5 ND TS SARAH H A RY A A E ND LLE IEPL RM ● PACINI A E L D LO RO JE W M E DE ● KO E S E E Y ● Y V GU ER ● GI UT ● PE PAUL ● LONGCHAMP ● ● SMITH POLO RALPH LAUREN ● LOUIS VUITTON ● X-LINE ●

SAXON’S ● PINKO ● NATAN ● TENSEN ● FRED PERRY AUTHENTIC ● ● ICI PARIS XL WOLFORD ● ● OXFORD PATRIZIA PEPE ●

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Department Store

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PRETTY WOMAN LINGERIE ●

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Atelier Assemblé’s womenswear collections are instantly recognisable; every season the label produces contemporary yet inherently feminine pieces using a sober colour palette, and is focused on providing a fattering ft. its childrenswear range is similarly impressive and is known for its vibrant colours. if nothing in the store appeals, take advantage of the boutique’s

custom-made service and have a piece from the archive specially tailored to suit your shape. Atelier Assemblé, leopold de Waelstraat 30, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 216 0306, atelierassemble.be

Atelier Assemblé

MORGAN ●

M EI R

HOPL AND

LES HOMMES ● BASE ● CYDONIA ● SCAPA ● SPORT DO NU M ● GALERIA CO ● WE ● STO CK X & RCO ● INNO MA FOSSIL ● ● ● PEARLE VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● DE L FO RTE ● SCAPA WORLD CELIO ● ● PIMKIE ● PAL ZIL ERI ICI PARIS XL ● FOOT LOCKER ● Stadsfeestzaal MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● L'OCCITANE ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● BERSHKA ● RA BEA NC O ● H&M ● SED ON A BISKY URBAN NIC I AM ● ● OUTFITTERS VA NK ETS ● ● 14 HOPLAND KO LV E N I E R S S T R A AT ● SANDRO ● C&A LEVI'S ● ● MCGREGOR THE STING ● ● ZARA ● CREA CONCEPT WEST-END ● RIVER ME LVI N ● MANGO ● ● CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ISLAND PULL & BEAR ● BA SLE R ● ● RIVER WOODS NEW YORKER ● ● WE ● MER DU NORD MEXX ● ● ESPRIT COOL CAT ● SED ON A ● SPORTSTAFF ● ● TWIN SET DESIGUAL ● ● VICOMT E A. STREET ONE ● ● DONCEE L JUWELE N PRINCESS ● TRIUMPH ● KARL LAGERF ELD ● ● ESSENT IEL JOHN BRAYE ● SWAROVSKI ● ● MON PLUS BEAU SOUVEN IR KEN ● ● ILSE DE KEULEN AER LES ATELIER S DE LAMAIL LE ● LADURÉ E ● ZAZA ● ● CÉCIL CHAUSS URES TOMMY HILFIGE R ● ● MEPHIS TO ● COMPTO IR DES COTONN IERS ● ● GRAA NMAR KT 13 ● POM D' API PUMA ● VILEBRE QUIN ● CLEO ● SLAETS HEMA ● CAROLL ● THE CHOCOL ATE ● PAIN DE SUCRE BURBER RY ● Peek & Cloppenberg LINE ● ● AVEDA MAJE ● ● ESSENT IEL AVANCE ● ATOS LOMBAR DINI ● ● TERRE BLEU PRANGE ● ANNE FONTAN E ● D S ● MARITH É FRANÇO IS GIRBAU PRINCES SE TAM TAM ● E P L AAT ● BRILLEN MARKT / LENSON LINE KO M E DI VERSO OUTLET ● JACK & JONES / ● AMERIC AN VINTAGE XAZRIA ● BCBGMA ● S. OLIVER VERO MODA ● NOUKIE ’S ● ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIN D ● SCORE JIMMY CHOO ● ● H&M MONCLE R ● ● MEL V AS ADVENTURE ● ZADIG & VOLTAIR E ● ● DELVAU X GÉRARD DAREL ● ● COCODR ILLO MEN COCODR ILLO ● DVS ● ● REMINIS CENCE PARMEN TIER ● ● TENSEN NATAN ● STEVE MADDEN ● NEW LOOK ● ESPRIT ● HUNKEMÖLLER ● UNITED BRANDS ●

KI

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Meir & Hopland

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Leysstraat & De Keyserlei

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BOOKS I CD I COMPUTER I DVD I GAMES HI-FI I HOME & DESIGN I KIDS PHOTOGRAPHY I TICKETING I TV FNAC ANTWERPEN Groenplaats

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FNAC GENT Veldstraat 88

FNAC LEUVEN Vital Decosterstr. 7

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58 | G U I D E

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ChoColatier Van oost Chocolatier Van oost, a tiny boutique in the shadow of Bruges’s historic belfry, is known for its handmade pralines. the store’s selection combines classic confectionery with its own modern take on traditional recipes; expect to fnd typical marzipans and trufes alongside more experimental options, such as ginger trufes, violet creams and chocolate caramels topped with salted fowers.

Chocolatier Van Oost, Wollestraat 11, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 331454, chocolatiervanoost.net

Old Town ● NICKY M

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● ROCOCO ● CHOCOLATIER VAN OOST ● THE BOTTLE SHOP Pergola ● KLEDING DE KAT PICKERY ● T ● BUBBLES AT HOME CADEAUX MARGAUX ● ● POINT DE ROSE HET BRUGSCH THEEHUIS ● ● CHOCOHOLIC CHOCOLATE HAPPINESS ●

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Global Blue Retailer

Burg

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P.60

FLANDERS LACE ● ● DE 5 ZINTUIGEN MILLE FLEURS ● AU POINT DE BRUGES ● KANTENPARADIJS ● CHOCOHOLIC ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

JOSIANE ANSAELENS ●

Restaurant


60 | G U I D E

Pergola Kaffee Pergola Kafee’s enduring popularity is easy to understand, given its beautifully prepared traditional cuisine and one of Bruges’ most romantic locations. The restaurant comple-

ments its canalside views with a classic menu. Typical options include oven-baked lobster and an authentic bouillabaisse. Pergola Kafee, Die Swaene, Steenhouwersdijk, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 447650, dieswaene.be for map go to page 59

Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer


G U I D E | 61

Maasmechelen Village Maasmechelen Village, Zetellaan 100, 3630 Maasmechelen, +32 (0)89 774000, maasmechelenvillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm Saturday-Sunday: 10am-7pm

PERFECt DAY

How to GEt tHERE By car Leave the E314 at exit 33 and follow the signs for Leisure Valley. At the roundabout follow the signed access road to Leisure Valley and Maasmechelen Village. the journey from Antwerp and Brussels takes about an hour. By train

10am Admire the vintage-inspired collections by Dutch brand Scotch & Soda.

there is a regular SNCB train service to Ghent station, which is 20 minutes by taxi from Maasmechelen Village. By Shopping Express®

2pm Stop for lunch at Mea Cuppa; this café ofers a menu of bagels, quiches and soup.

A direct luxury coach service runs daily from rue du Marché aux Herbes in Brussels to the Village. By bus

5pm Save time for a visit to Rodania. this watch outlet ofers a range of highquality, on-trend timepieces.

De Lijn runs regular hourly bus services from Ghent or Hasselt train stations (no 45); the journey takes an hour.


62

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2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our refund ofces.

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Maasmechelen Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping® Collection of Villages © Maasmechelen Village 2014 *on the recommended retail price


64

Translations РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 28: The Future’s Bright

Светлое Будущее

Новое поколение передовых бельгийских дизайнеров открывает новые и все более удивительные грани ювелирного мастерства, рассказывает Фрэнсис Васим Бельгия заявила о себе как о центре современной и креативной моды еще в 1980х годах, когда Антверпенская Шестерка покорила Европу своим радикальным взглядом на одежду. globalblue.com

С тех пор страна подарила миру немало талантов, начиная от дальновидного Мартина Маргелы и романтичного Оливье Тейскенса и заканчивая антверпенским дуэтом, стоящим за маркой Peter Pilotto. Похоже, что всех бельгийских модельеров объединяет одно общее желание – преодолеть границы творчества и технических возможностей. Даже местные ювелиры, предпочитавшие до недавних пор придерживаться классической эстетики, начинают менять свою точку зрения. На протяжении многих столетий Антверпен был крупным центром торговли бриллиантами, и его ювелирные салоны, принадлежащие таким знаменитым брендам, как Manalys, хранят сокровища, которым позавидовал бы сам Алладин. Однако все чаще ювелирные компании стремятся применить в своем творчестве авангардный подход. Например, марка Baunat регулярно проводит коллаборации со многими местными дизайнерами, такими как Анн Зеллин и Эльке Питерс, а для создания своей последней коллекции компания пригласила к участию популярный бельгийский бренд Wouters & Hendrix, получивший славу еще в 1980-х годах. Улицы бельгийских городов усеяны салонами украшений и галереями современного искусства,


65

где представлены творения таких дизайнеров как, например, Тин де Рюиссер, которая использует как традиционную технику, так и самую современную с использованием компьютерных технологий. Ее накидка из меди и полиэстера в стиле оригами, сделанная в рамках защиты дипломной работы в лондонском колледже Royal College of Art в 2009 году, могла бы отлично смотреться на шоу-показе Ann Demeulemeester. Многие галереи с радостью выставляют уникальные коллекции дизайнера. Так, в 2012 году прошла выставка под названием Beyond Fashion, где были показаны потрясающие ожерелья и манжеты, сделанные из бумажных купюр евро и рупий. Хильде Ван Беллегем окончила антверпенскую академию изящных искусств Koninklijke Academie voor Schone Kunsten. Дизайнер открыла в центре города свое собственное ателье и выпустила совместную с De Beers коллекцию украшений из желтого золота и бриллиантов. Также она порой создает весьма удивительные вещи, как, например, кулон «Ангел», выполненный из серебра, фарфора, перьев и сургуча. Ключевыми особенностями бельгийского дизайна является изучение самых непредсказуемых тем и придание украшениям определенной эмоциональной окраски. Украшения Анн Зеллин, вдохновленные ее любовью к природе и винтажному стилю, воплощают в себе и то и другое. Среди материалов, с которыми работает дизайнер, – бриллианты,

жемчуг, полудрагоценные камни и, как это ни странно, керамика. Ее кулон в виде фигурки серебряного кролика имеет немного грубоватую форму и сочетается с крестом, украшенным жемчужинами. Это очень чувственное и женственное украшение, которое наверняка будет передаваться от одного поколения к другому. Новое поколение бельгийских дизайнеров неустанно радует своих поклонников новым видением и перспективой использования классических материалов. Катрин Вутерс и Карен Хендрикс также бывшие выпускники факультета ювелирных дел при антверпенской академии. Они открыли свой флагманский магазин, в котором покупатели могут найти большой выбор украшений из серебра, золота и алмазов. «Мы стремимся создавать нечто веселое, классическое и, тем не менее, глубоко индивидуальное», – поясняет Вутерс. Она считает, что ее изделия несут «особый эмоциональный оттенок, импонирующий покупателям». В своей работе дизайнеры воплощают в жизнь старинные ремесленнические техники, такие как перегородчатая эмаль, когда на золотую или серебряную основу наносится аппликация из эмали, в результате чего украшения выглядят так, словно они попали в наш мир из доброй сказки. Дизайнерская студия Atelier 11, основанная Флер Янсенс и Людовиком Колперт, не менее решительно настроена изменить привычный горизонт


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ювелирной индустрии. «Люди привыкли оценивать украшения в зависимости от материала – золота, серебра, бриллиантов или жемчуга», – говорит Колперт. Однако дизайнер отдает предпочтение доступным и стильным вещам, созданным по самым высоким стандартам ювелирного дела. «Нам хочется экспериментировать, но при этом оставаться коммерчески привлекательными», – продолжает она. Ее коллекции включают простые и забавные серебряные украшения, нередко имеющие яркую расцветку. Визитной карточкой Atelier 11 является особая техника порошковой окраски. Изделия дизайнеров успели завоевать немало поклонников среди представителей модной индустрии, которые в свою очередь охотно принимают участие в совместных со студией коллаборациях. Так, в коллективных проектах уже приняли участие такие бренды, как Martin Margiela, Victor & Rolf, AF Vandevorst и Raf Simons. Сочетание бессмертных традиций и новейших технологий придает бельгийским украшениям естественное качество, глубину и таинственность. Если вам наскучили обыденные коллекции с бриллиантами и жемчугом и вы готовы попробовать нечто новое и необычное, тогда Бельгия будет для вас настоящей сокровищницей ювелирных шедевров. baunat.com, tinederuysser.com, hildevanbelleghem.be, annezellien.be, wouters-hendrix.com, atelierelf.com globalblue.com

34: Weaving Stories

Ткацкие Истории Традиционный фламандский гобелен имеет долгую и яркую историю, а также постоянно возрастающее влияние на мир современной моды, – говорит Стивен Дойг Существуют определенные аспекты культурной истории Бельгии, которые, несмотря на, казалось бы, совершенное разногласие во взглядах с подиумом XXI века, так или иначе, продолжили свой путь к современному гардеробу. И не сказать, чтобы результат был так уж плох. Мировые дома моды, такие как Valentino, John Galliano и Marc Jacobs с Louis Vuitton неоднократно использовали типичные формы, глубокие цвета и традиционные стильные штрихи, присущие знаменитым фламандским произведениям искусства. Поэтому неудивительно, что искусство гобелена, являющееся одним из самых известных ремесел в Бельгии, постоянно переосмысляется и применятся к самым инновационным и модным вещам. Гобелен, насчитывающий уже несколько тысяч лет, представляет собой текстиль с вытканными на нем изображениями. Некоторые образцы древнегреческих гобеленов сохранились до наших дней. В Европе в средние века ни один салон не обходился без драпировки, которая служила с двойной целью – в качестве


67

украшения и как изоляционный материал. Стоит упомянуть, что лучшие работы сначала появились в город Аррас, что на севере Франции, однако в 16 веке картина меняется, и на передовую выходят ткачи Фландрии, ставшие признанными мастерами сложнейшей техники. За многие года они создали огромное множество гобеленов, которые, как и любое произведение искусства, демонстрируют все, от пасторальных сцен до эпизодов из классических мифов и истории. Коллекционеры и индустрия антиквариата в целом по-прежнему придают огромное значение традиционным гобеленам, однако как вид искусства они уже слегка устарели. Именно поэтому появление гобеленов в культуре моды настолько поразительно. Дизайнеры от Dolce & Gabbana и Valentino до Balmain и Rag & Bone использовали эстетику гобелена для создания на подиуме выразительных текстурированных образов. Dolce & Gabbana использовали гобелен наряду с прозрачными и кружевными тканями, для достижения эффекта неожиданности: гобелен преподносился как нечто вполне современное, за счет парочки чувственных дополнений. Предыдущие коллаборации Louis Vuitton, проводившиеся между директором Кимом Джонсом и художниками Джейком и Динос Чапман приодили к тому, что эффект гобелена появлялся на откровенных вечерних платьях и смокингах, украшенных едва

заметными фрагментами с героями мультсериалов. Дрис Ван Нотен еще один из дизайнеров, которому удалось переосмыслить традиционную тематику гобелена и создать нечто выдающееся и современное. Ван Нотен ранее уже применял элементы тканой материи в пальто и платьях, используя при этом кружевную вышивку или же принты, и снова она нашла отражение в его новой коллекции весна-лето 2014: сюда вошел узнаваемый гобеленовый дизайн, помещенный на спортивных жилетах и куртках, мистические цветочные и золотые узоры, подобные тем, что мы могли наблюдать в Tournai’s Musée de la Tapisserie, а также многочисленные спортивные нотки – номера в футбольном стиле, молнии и стильный крой, достойный 21 века. Коллекция женской одежды для весеннего сезона не столь акцентирует внимание на гобелене, тем не менее, она не лишена некоторых намеков в виде вышивки на жилетах и куртках, а также темных цветочных форм на приглушенном фоне, проявившихся на пальто и платьях. Не обошел стороной гобеленовую тематику и Кристофер Кейн со своей флористической коллекцией, куда вошли тонкие юбки с вышитыми цветочными узорами. Куртки-бомберы и платья Джонатана Сандерса пестрят цветочными герляндами, а фольклорная коллекция от Valentino имеет множество акцентов с гобеленовым эффектом.


68

Все это делается с одной целью – привнести элемент классики в современный стиль и доказать, что старомодное ремесло не такое уж и старомодное. Это также дает дизайнерам определенную свободу для экспериментов с цветом и принтами, а также обеспечивает отличную текстуру ткани. Фламандский гобелен еще никогда не смотрелся таким привлекательным, а возможно и инновационным.

62: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €125.01 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными. 美文翻译

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28: The Future’s Bright

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

新一代新锐设计师正将比利时珠宝业推向

光明的未来

惊喜、灵动的方向,Frances Wasem向我 们娓娓道来 众所周知比利时是新锐创意和设计的大本 营,自1980 年代安特卫普六君子的诞生至 今,这里就在源源不断地输出设计人才, 从视觉系的Martin Margiela,到浪漫主 义的Olivier Theyskens和Raf Simons以 及安特卫普学院出生的Peter Pilotto设计 二人组。 比 利时的时尚 设 计师们 一直满怀 挑 战艺术手法的渴望,而当地的珠宝制造商 大都走传统经典路线。安特卫普几个世纪

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue.

以来都是 钻石贸易的中心,像 M a n a lys 这样德高望重的珠宝设计屋之璀璨如同 阿里巴巴宝藏一般。然而,声名远扬的设 计不在 少 数,更多的设 计 开始 走先 锋 路 线。B au n at 就 和另一个 8 0 年代 设 计神

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. globalblue.com

话——Wouters & Hendrix合作过一个 系列,并经常和当地设计师合作,如 Anne

Zellien和Elke Peeters。 除了珠宝店以外,比利时城市的街边 的艺术画廊也纷纷展出新锐珠宝艺术家的 作品,如Tine de Ruysser,她兼并传统和


69 电脑科技,使用铜和涤纶制成可穿的金属

传 统和创新的结合 创造出的天然品

折纸披肩,作为她伦敦皇家艺术学院2009

质,这种深度和厚重是独一无二的比利时

年博士学位的毕业设计,这件作品即便拿

特色。

到Ann Demeulemeester 的秀场也不会

和珍珠,而是更青睐新潮和创意的领军设

时尚达人们不屈就于平凡的钻石

逊色。艺术画廊甄选出一些她的概念单品

计。比利时是一个宝藏,专为达人们准备。

和她经典的钞票首饰— —欧 元和卢比制

baunat.com, tinederuysser.com, hildevanbelleghem.be, annezellien.be, wouters-hendrix.com, atelierelf.com

成的项圈和手镯被置于玻璃器皿中,出现 在她2012年的独立展“超越时尚”当中。

Hilde Van Belleghem 也曾就读安 特卫普皇家高级美术学院,在市里有一间 工作室中协同De Beers 合作过黄金和钻 石系列。她还设计过令人惊喜的作品,如

A ngel — —由银、瓷器、羽毛和火漆制作 的吊坠。 比利时设计的一个关键词就是探索未

34: Weaving Stories 编织故事

知,珠宝设计也是同理。Anne Zellien的 珠宝完美地契合了自然和复古元素。她大

传统的佛兰德织锦有着辉煌 且悠久的历

胆地将陶瓷融入到钻石、珍珠和半珍贵珠

史——其对当今时尚界的影响也在与日俱

宝之中,其“深信自然”系列兔子吊坠就是

增,Stephen Doig报道

一只银制小兔和珍珠覆盖的十字吊坠,心 思细腻、充满爱意,是母亲传给女儿的绝

比利时文化史中的某些部分,虽看似与21

妙礼物。

世纪的时装秀格格不入,仍旧或多或少在

革新传统材质和工艺是新一代设计师

摩登衣橱中占据了一席之地。并且其碰撞

的方向。同样从安特卫普皇家学院毕业的

的结果也并非如人们想象的一般刺耳。全

Katrin Wouters和Karen Hendrix学习 了金饰工艺,如今开有一家金银钻石饰品

球知名设计师如Valentino 、John Galliano与Louis Vuitton的 Marc Jacobs,

旗舰店,出售有趣、经典但又极具个性的

都曾经借鉴过著名佛兰德艺术作品中的造

饰品。Wouters 说:“希望我们的设计能够

型、暗沉色调与传统服装元素。因此当佛

唤起顾客的共鸣。”这个设计二人组运用

兰德手工艺中最出名的织锦,被不断改造

古董工艺,如镂花搪瓷——一种镶了金银

并应用到最具创意的前沿时尚单品中时,

边的琺琅工艺——制造出仿佛从奇幻商店

一点都不让人惊奇。

淘出来的商品。

织锦艺术— —以特定的方式编织面

设计工作室Atelier 11,由Flor Jans-

料从而创造出赏心悦目的图像——可以追

sens和Ludovik Colpaert 组建,同样致力

溯到几千年前;从古希腊时期延续下来的

于挑战传统珠宝设计。“人们仍然 将珠宝

传统仍未泯灭。在中世纪时期的欧洲,每

等同于金、银、钻石和珍珠”,Colpaert说。

位贵族的居室内都有织锦装饰,其能起到

这些设计师们将工艺珠宝的技术运用在平

装饰与保温的双重功能。曾几何时,最优

价的时尚单品上。“我们既革新,也满足商

秀的织锦作品来自法国北部的 A rras,但

业需求。”他说道。这个系列包含简单俏皮

自16世纪起,佛兰德的织锦工匠已成为这

的银饰并偶尔稍加色彩粉饰,也是Atelier

门复杂技艺的公认大师。多年来他们创作

11的标志设计,赢得了时尚圈的青睐:这 也意味着它与Martin Margiela、Victor & Rolf、AF Vandevorst 和Raf Simons

出诸多与任何画布上的作品同样精美的织

的广泛合作。

锦,表现从田园风光,到古典神话与历史 事件等各种主题。 古 董 收 藏 界 与 收 藏 家们 对 于 传 统


70 织 锦 作 品 仍 十 分 重 视 ,然 而 其 作 为 一 种 艺 术 形 式 已 被 视 为 逐 渐 落 伍 。这 也

62: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

是 当它 在 时尚文化中再 次 出现 时,是 如

畅购全球,尊享退税

此让 人惊叹。从 D olc e & G abb a n a 到

Valentino,Balmain到 Rag & Bone 品

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店

牌的设计师等一众人等,都用织锦制造方

消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退

法创造出纹理丰富的 T台作品。Dolce &

税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约

Gabbana在透明或蕾丝面料上运用织锦,

购物开销。

营造若隐若现的效果:织锦带来的性感触

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联

觉乃是时下最流行的。在 Louis Vuitton

(Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错

之前的系列中,品牌的男装设计总监Kim

过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询

Jones 与艺术家 Jake 与Dinos Chapman

商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服

进行合作,将织锦效果运用到魅惑晚礼服

务,然后遵循我们简单的退税过程:

与晚装夹克上,并在图案细节处加入了隐 蔽的摩登卡通元素。 另一位重新诠释传统佛兰德织并以

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税

此创造前卫时尚做的设计师是Dries Van

表格(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并

Noten。Van Noten曾在大衣与连衣裙(

记得保存小票。

无论是针绣刺绣或是以印染方式为面料绘 上图案)上使用这种手法,还将其运用到

2. 申请退税

2014春/夏2014男装系列中。这包括在运

当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的

动背心和夹克上使用华丽、繁复的织锦设

海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,

计,黑暗阴沉的花卉与灿烂的金色调子,

然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税

让人立刻联想起Tournai的Musée de la

款。

Tapisserie博物馆中悬挂着的织锦挂毯, 不同之处是 平添了几许运动气息— — 球

联系方式:

衣字母设计、拉链、华丽的剪裁与织带装

锦工艺,然而从绣花背心与夹克的细节,

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€125.01并且节约高达购买价格 16%的税。请注意:最终退款将包含增值

以及大衣与连衣裙的上攀附着的暗色花朵

税总额,但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择

中,仍可隐隐见其身影。

即时现金退税,部分退税点将以退税表格

饰 ——无不是21世纪的最新手法。品牌今 春的女装系列虽然并未大张旗鼓地使用织

织锦手法同样出现在 Christopher

Kane的botany

为单位收取一定数额的手续费。

lesson(植物学课)系列

中,包括各种带有刺绣与织锦花卉的透明

日本語翻訳

长裙。Jonathan Saunders品牌的飞行员 夹克和连衣裙上,也可见到花团锦簇的织

28: The Future’s Bright

锦。Valentino 带来的民族风作品中更是

まばゆい未来

不乏织锦的运用。则一切都旨在为现代风 格注入经典元素:也是这种老式工艺在今

新世代の前衛デザイナーが出現し、意外

日的运用。人们因此得以色彩与印花上进

で発想 豊かな方向に進むベルギーの宝

行更多实验,为平面布料增添立体感;佛

飾業界について、フランシス・ワセムが語

兰德织锦从未像今日这般引人入胜、充满

る。

创意。

globalblue.com


71 ベルギーは、アントワープ・シックスが斬

ヒルデ・ヴァン・ベレヘムもアントワ

新なファッション観で一躍有名になった

ープの王立芸術学院で学んだ一人だ。ヴァ

1980 年代以来、前衛的な創造 性と革新

ン・ベルヘムはこの街にアトリエを構え、

的デザインの中核として知られてきた。こ

イエローゴールドとダイアモンドのコレクシ

の国はこれまでに、想像性あふれるマル

ョンでデビアスとコラボした他、シルバー

タン・マルジェラやロマンチックなオリヴィ

と磁器、羽根、シーリングワックスからで

エ・ティスケンス、ラフ・シモンズ、アントワ

きたペンダント「エンジェル」など、ちょっ

ープで修業したピーター・ピロットのデザ

と意外な作品もデザインしている。

イナードュオなど、才能あるデザイナーを 数々生み出して来た。

意外性を追 究するのがベルギーデ ザインの重要要素なら、ジュエリーを情緒

ベルギーのファッションデザイナー

に訴えるものにすることもそうだ。自然と

たちは、芸術的限界、技術的限界を押し

あらゆるヴィンテージ物を愛する心から生

広げたいという願望で一致しているよう

まれたアンネ・ツェリンのジュエリーには、

だ。一方、宝飾の世界は最 近までどちら

その両方が盛り込まれている。ダイアモン

かというと古典的な美意識を守ってきた

ドと真珠、半貴石に、意外にもセラミック

ように見える。アントワープは数世紀も昔

を組み合わせた作品だ。 「In nature we

からダイアモンドの中心地であり、マナリ

trust」ラビットペンダントは、シルバーを

ス( Manalys)など名高い宝飾店ではア

荒削りして作られたウサギに、真珠を散り

ラジンの宝窟よろしく貴石が煌く。ただ、

ばめた十字架を寄り添わせた。手に触れ

そんな歴史ある宝飾店でさえも、近年は

て心に響く、娘に伝えていきたいと思わせ

アヴァンギャルドなアプローチを模索する

る作品だ。

傾向にある。例えばボウナット(Baunat)

標準的な材料と手法を斬 新な方 法

は、1980年代に名を成したウータース&ヘ

で使うというのが、これらの新世代デザイ

ンドリックスとのコラボによる商品ラインを

ナーのアプローチの真髄だ。カトリン・ウ

出している他、アンネ・ツェリンやエルケ・

ータースとカレン・ヘンドリックスも権 威

ピータースといった地元デザイナーともた

あるアントワープ王立芸術学院の出身で、

びたびコラボレーションを行っている。

金細工を学んだ。現在は、シルバー、ゴー

ベルギーの街では、宝飾店だけでな

ルド、ダイアモンドをベースとした作品を販

くアートギャラリーでも前衛的な「アート」

売する旗艦店を構えている。 「ユーモラス

ジュエリーが見られる。伝統的技術とコン ピュータ技術の双方を駆使するティーネ・ デ・ロイセル(Tine de Ruysser)の作品 などだ。彼女がロンドンのロイヤルカレッ ジ・オブ・アートの博士課程にあった2009 年に作った銅とポリエステルでできた身に 付けられる折り紙ケープは、アン・ドゥムル メステールのファッションショーで使われ てもおかしくない。デ・ロイセルにはアート ギャラリーからコンセプト作品の依頼があ り、彼女の「バンクノート」ジュエリー(ユ ーロやルピーのお札を使って織り上げた印 象的なチョーカーやカフス)は 2012 年の ソロ展示会「ファッションを超えて」でガラ スケース入りで陳列された。


72 で古典的、かつ主張のあるものを目指して

ションの世界でもその影響力は増す一方

いる」というウータースは、自分たちの作

だ。スティーヴン・ドイグがレポートする。

品には「身に着ける人が共感する情緒的 価値」があると感じている。このデザイナ

ベルギーの文化史は激しく移り変わる21

ードュオは、プリカジュール(金線や銀線

世紀のファッションショーの世界とは一見

で作った枠組みにエナメルを施す)など古

相容れないように見えるが、その中にどう

くからある技法を用いて、とびきり風変わ

いうわけか現代人のワードローブに反映さ

りな骨董珍品店で偶然見つけたような趣

れている要素がある。しかも、それが思う

の作品を生み出している。

ほど違和感なく馴染んでいるのだ。これま

フロール・ヤンセンスとルドヴィク・コ

でヴァレンティノやジョン・ガリアーノ、マ

ルパートが設立したデザインスタジオ「ア

ーク・ジェイコブス、ルイ・ヴィトンといっ

トリエ11」も、宝飾デザインの通常概念を

た国際的なデザイナーが、名高いフランダ

打ち破りたいという強い意思は同じだ。 「

ースの芸術品から形や沈んだ色彩、伝統

ジュエリーというと、どうしても金や銀、ダ

衣装的な雰囲気を取り入れてきている。

イアモンド、真珠を考えがち」というコルパ

ベルギー随一の工芸品であるタペストリー

ート。アトリエ11では「アートジュエリー」

が、次々と新たな解釈で最も革新的な最

の技法を使ってお手頃価格のファッショ

先端のファッション作品に応用されている

ンアイテムを提供している。 「実験的であ

のも不思議ではない。

りながら一般向けでありたい」とコルパー

タペストリー(美しい絵柄を作るため

トはいう。彼らのコレクションは、シンプル

に特殊な方法(綴れ織り)で織られたテキ

で遊び心あるシルバーのジュエリーに、今

スタイル)の技の歴史は数千年前まで遡

やアトリエ11の代表的特徴となったパウダ

り、古代ギリシャ時代の名残が今も残る。

ーコーティングで色が弾ける作品が混じっ

中世ヨーロッパでは、貴族の邸宅のインテ

たもの。そのデザインはファッション界でも

リアは装飾と断熱を兼ねた一連のタペス

ファンを獲得し、これまでにマルタン・マ

トリー無しには完成しなかった。はじめは

ルジェラ、ヴィクター&ロルフ、AF

北フランスのアラス産が最高級品だった

ヴァン

デヴォルスト、ラフ・シモンズとのコラボを

が、16世紀には、フランダースの織り職人

実現している。

たちが複雑な技巧を凝らす名人として知ら

不朽の伝統と新たなテクニックの組

れるようになる。彼らが長年にわたって生

み合わせによって、有機的で深みがありダ

み出した数々のタペストリーは、牧歌的な

ークとも言える魅力を生み出すのが、いか

風景から古典的な神話や歴史上のエピソ

にもベルギー人ならでは。ありきたりのダ

ードを描いたものまで、カンバスに描いた

イヤモンドや真珠でなく先駆的で斬新な

絵に勝るとも劣らない芸術品だ。

ジュエリーが欲しいファッションファンにと

伝統的タペストリーは、今でもコレク

って、ベルギーは紛れもない宝庫だ。

ターの間や骨董品業界で重んじられてい

baunat.com, tinederuysser.com, hildevanbelleghem.be, annezellien.be, wouters-hendrix.com, atelierelf.com

るが、芸術の形としては少々時代遅れにな って久しい。それだけに、ファッション文 化に現れたのがなおさら印象的だ。ドル チェ&ガッバーナ、ヴァレンティノ、バルマ

34: Weaving Stories

ン、ラグ&ボーンをはじめ多くのデザイナ

織物語り

ーが、タペストリーの美を取り入れた風合 い豊かな作品をキャットウォーク上で披露

伝統的なフランダースのタペストリーには

している。ドルチェ&ガッバーナは、その

長く輝かしい歴史があるが、モダンファッ

重厚感にシアーやレースの生地を合わせ

globalblue.com


73 てピーカブー効果を出し、タペストリー自

リックに風合いを与える効果もある。フラ

体にも官能的な要素でひねりを加えた。

ンダースのタペストリーが今ほど魅力的で

ルイ・ヴィトンでは、メンズウェアダイレク

創意豊かに見えたことはない。

ターのキム・ジョーンズが以前行った芸術 家ジェイク・アンド・ディノス・チャップマン とのコラボレーションで、怪しげなドレッ

62: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

シングガウンやイブニングジャケットにタ

海外でのお買い物が 免税に

ペストリー効果を取り入れ 、複 雑な絵柄 に隠された漫画キャラクターで現代性を

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制

出した。

度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有

伝統的なフランダースのタペストリー を再 解 釈してアヴァンギャルドなファッ

名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加 盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。

ションを創り出したもう一人のデザイナー

年間 2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ

が、ドリス・ヴァン・ノッテンだ。以前にも(

ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方も

針編みレースの刺繍か絵柄を生地にプリ

ぜひご利用ください。手 続きは簡単。ま

ントする方法で)コートやドレスに使ったこ

ず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星

とがあるヴァン・ノッテンは、2014 年春夏

が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバ

のメンズウェアコレクションでもタペストリ

ル・ブルー?」とお尋ねください。あとは、

ーを取り入れた。スポーツベストやジャケ

次のステップを踏むだけです。

ットに贅沢で印象的なタペストリーのデザ インを用い、暗く沈んだ花柄、金のアクセ

1. お買い物

ントと、トゥルネー市タペストリー織物博

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブ

物館に掛かっている類のタペストリーを見

ルーの免税書類(タックスフリー・フォー

事に写し取りつつ、サッカーの背番号のよ

ム)を受け取ってください。レシートを保

うな数字やジッパー、巧みなカットやウェ

管するのも忘れずに。

ビングといったスポーティなアクセントで

21世紀風にしている。ウーマンズウェアの

2. 還付請求

春物コレクションにはこれほど明らかなタ

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシ

ペストリーの影響は見られないが、刺繍を

ートに承認印を押してもらってから、グロ

施したベストやジャケット、抑えた地にダ

ーバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデス

ークな花柄が舞うコートやドレスといった

クで払い戻しを受けます。

形で、アクセント的に使われている。 クリストファー・ケインのコレクション でも、シアー地のスカートにステッチや刺

お問い合わせ:

れる。ジョナサン・サンダースでは、ボマー

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €125. 01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入 価格の最高16%の払い戻しが受けられま

ジャケットやドレスに針編みレース刺繍の

す。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税

花綱が、ヴァレンティノでも民族衣装的な

(VAT)合計から事務手数料を差し引い

作品にタペストリー効果が見られる。これ

た金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ

らは全て、現代的なスタイルに古典的な要

さい。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な

素を加える役目を果たしている。昔気質の

場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックス

工芸が現代に活かされた格好だ。色やプ

フリーフォームにつき固定の追加手数料を

リントで冒険することもでき、平坦なファブ

とられる場合があります。

繍で花を描いた植物学の授業のような作 品に、タペストリー的なタッチが見受けら


74 | P RO D U C T S

Souvenir

SPARKLING SUCCESS Belgian jeweller Sara Esther has a predilection for precious materials, as demonstrated by this beautiful ring adorned with diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Designed to replicate the texture of lace, it is crafted from gold and silver vermeil and covers almost the full fnger, making it a real statement piece. Esther is inspired by Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 62

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*



Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores. Tel. 02 289 28 28 Download the Louis Vuitton pass app to reveal exclusive content.


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