SHOP Berlin SS14

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 29

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit! Kurfürstendamm 215, T +49.(0)30.882 68 78 berlin.kurfuerstendamm@wempe.de Friedrichstraße 82, T +49.(0)30.20 39 99 20 berlin.friedrichstraße@wempe.de Rolex Boutique Kurfürstendamm 184, T +49.(0)30.55 66 90 10 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

The watch you promised yourself, jewelry that will bring a sparkle to her eyes. Welcome to Bucherer.

For individuals with a passion for the art of jewelry- and watchmaking, there’s a name that stands out: Bucherer, one of Europe’s leading watch and jewelry specialists. With a long, rich tradition, the Swissowned company stocks a wide-ranging collection for people who settle for nothing but the best in terms of precision, quality and creativity. Founded in 1888 and now in

and many more

its third generation, the family-owned company carries an enormous selection of prestige watch brands. Our passion for jewels and jewelry goes back an equally long way. So be sure to take a closer look at the diamond, colored gemstone and pearl creations from Bucherer’s jewelry-makers: the impression they leave will outshine anything else.

Berlin Friedrichstraße 179 Kurfürstendamm 45

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

TOMMY HILFIGER STORE KURFÜRSTENDAMM 217 BERLIN

For more than a century the KaDeWe has been regarded as one of the world’s leading department stores, comparable to premier establishments such as Galeries Lafayette in Paris or Harrods in London. It offers an exquisite and exclusive shopping experience, and is an outstanding innovator in generating new ideas for the department stores of the 21st century. KaDeWe shows a keen eye and excellent intuition in spotting future trends as well as selecting exclusive products, which are presented in artfully decorated window displays. KaDeWe ofers the ultimate shopping experience on eight foors and a total foor space of 60,000 m². The ground foor includes the beauty department, along with 4,000 m² devoted to luxury labels, watches and jewellery, along with a full range of high-end accessories from international brands such as Céline, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci, Dior, Prada, Miu Miu, Fendi, Tod’s, Tifany & Co., Bulgari, Vertu, Chopard and Saint Laurent.

The Luxury Boulevard and Beauty department on the ground floor include a full range of international high-end brands such as Chanel, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Prada and many more.

The designer and fashion sections located on the 1st (men‘s apparel) and 2nd (women) foor are spread over 20,000 m² and satisfy all your fashion needs.

The 3rd foor delights you with a world entitled “The Loft”. This area shows an impressive women’s shoe department and an extensive handbag and accessories section. A new undergarments, lingerie and hosiery department alongside an area for high-quality children’s wear complete the 3rd foor.

On the 6th foor you will fnd Europe’s largest gourmet food selection. Discerning customers can choose from over 34,000 products, including 3,400 wines from around the world, a fine assortment of champagne, 1,300 varieties of cheese and around 1,200 deli sausage and ham specialities, as well as an assortment of 450 pralines. This is complimented by an exclusive selection of fsh and other seafood specialities, the legendary KaDeWe oyster bar and over 30 other gourmet stands.

The Home & Living area on the 4th foor features an exquisite collection of products to meet all your needs in these areas. The 5th floor is the place to find high-quality writing utensils, luggage, fne leather goods for business and a gifts shop. The 1,250 m² toy department is certain to make any child’s heart beat faster.

SERVICES

TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU!

PERSONAL SHOPPER We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to KaDeWe. Our VIP Service specialists will make your shopping trip into a unique individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. After an informal discussion and a thorough image consultation, we compile an exclusive selection just for you, from which you can pick out and try on your favourite items. Enjoy your visit to our store in a private atmosphere & with a sparkling glass of champagne or a stimulating espresso. For further information, please contact us on +49 30 21 21 25 54 or E-Mail: vip-service@kadewe.com

In addition, the KaDeWe is delighted to ofer you many other exklusive services, such as:

PORTER Our porter is available during the week from midday and on Saturdays from 11 am. He will carry your shopping for you free of charge from the checkout to your car in the car park or to your taxi. If required, please speak to our checkout assistants.

CLOAKROOM AND LUGGAGE STORAGE You can leave your coats and jackets as well as your shopping at our Service Centre on the 3rd foor free of charge - 20 m across from the bridge on the 3rd Floor to the car park 1. For further information, please contact +49 (0)30 21 21 25 06.

GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICES Our expertise is to make even the smallest gift stand out. The packing/gift-wrapping service is in the Service Center on the 3rd Floor (bridge to car park I). Personalised packaging requests can be carried out at an extra cost on the 6th foor.

BEAUTY LOUNGES & SERVICES The exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure, a new Make-up or a perfect hair-styling, all beauty treatments are carried out at KaDeWe with total care and professionalism. For further information, contact our customer service.

COMPLIMENTARY WIFI Simply log-in while you are visiting the KaDeWe and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.

CUSTOMER SERVICES Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your purchase from KaDeWe, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the 5th foor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you. For further information, please call +49 30 21 21 20 53.

TOURS OF THE LEGENDARY KADEWE Explore the legendary KaDeWe and learn lots of interesting things, from its beginnings to the department store’s presence today. We would like to accompany you and your guests on an individual tour, which ofers you an introduction to an unforgettable shopping experience. Simply call our customer service too book your personal tour (Phone: +49 30 2121 – 2053).

TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. IMMEDIATE CASH BACK ON THE 5TH FLOOR. TAX FREE

Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.

KaDeWe Berlin ∙ Tauentzienstraße 21 - 24 ∙ 10789 Berlin ∙ Telefon +49(0)30 21 21- 0 ∙ www.kadewe.de Opening Hours: Mon - Thur 10 am – 8 pm, Fri 10 am – 9 pm, Sat 9.30 am – 8 pm

CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN BERLIN. Einkaufszentrum Hallen am Borsigturm (Tegel) · Eastgate Center Berlin · Einkaufszentrum Das Schloss (Steglitz) · Forum Köpenick Gesundbrunnen-Center (Wedding) · GropiusPassagen (Neukölln) · Boulevard Berlin · Leipziger Platz Quartier · Havel-Park (Dallgow) · Potsdamer Platz Arkaden · Shoppingcenter Alexa · Spandau Arcaden · Tauentzienstraße 21-24 (inside KaDeWe) · Wilmersdorfer Arcaden CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS STAR* limited edition, necklace 585/- gold with brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.25 ct.**

Passion. Made in Germany. The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection. Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

www.christ.de

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera ILLUSTRATION: PAUL X JOHNSON

‫دليل ألانيا‬

Welcome to Berlin This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Berlin has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at Berlin’s cuttingedge fashion scene (see our feature on page 56) and discover Germany’s most innovative sunglasses brands (turn to page 62). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 54. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, fnd us on Facebook at Facebook.com/GlobalBlue, follow us on Twitter @GlobalBlue or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Emma Cheevers globalblue.com

德国指南

Руководство Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

oyster perpetual yacht-master ii

canda.com

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.

visit us on

facebook.com/ca

Berlin Kurfürstendamm 227-229 • Alexanderplatz 1 • Steglitz, Schlossstraße 17a

canda.com

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

ΎΤဒμ ήΧ Α ΐ έ Ζϧ Ϟϫ ΔοϮϤ ΍ ΕΎΤϴλ ήΧ΃ ΎϨϳΪ ϥϭΪΠΘγ C&A ΕϼΤϣ ϪϣΪ Η ΎϤΑ ΪόδΘγ ΍Ϋ· ϲϓ ϕϮδΘ ΎΑ ΍ϮόΘϤΘΗ ϥ΃ ϻ· ϢϜϴϠϋΎϣϭ Δ ΎϧϹ΍ ΔϤ ϰ · έϮΒδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Ε΍Ϊϴδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Δόγ΍ϭ ΔϠϴϜθΗ ϰϠϋ ΍ήϜ ΍ ΎϨϨ΋ΎΑί ΎϧΩϮϋ Ϊ ΎϨΗϼΤϣ ϥΎϤΛϷ΍ Ϟπϓ΄Αϭ Δϴ Ύό ΍ ΔϴϋϮϨ ΍ Ε΍Ϋ ΎϔρϷ΍ϭ ΎΟή ΍ϭ

ILLUSTRATION: STANLey ChOw

Contributors

Milkha Lala Milkha Lala, one of SHOP’s artworking assistants, has studied fne art, photography and flm. An avid follower of digital arts and cinema, his interests include Beat Generation authors, vintage guitars and Italian food. globalblue.com

Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features editor. A regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph, he is a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times.

Stanley Chow Stanley Chow created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Berlin. He is based in Manchester in the UK where he has lived all his life, and has worked widely in the design, editorial and advertising sectors. Chow’s ability to create bold and structured fgures make him the perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature on Berlin’s increasingly sophisticated street style on page 56. It shows a mix-andmatch fashion fip book with a woman posed against a Berlin cityscape. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Josie Thaddeus-Johns Josie Thaddeus-Johns is a freelance writer and editor based in Berlin. She writes about fashion and art for various international magazine titles. Her blog When You Live In Berlin was nominated for a Lead Award in 2013.

BERLIN FRIEDRICHSTR. 176-179 KURFÜRSTENDAMM 195 ESCADA.COM

+49 30 2386404 +49 30 88923815

Berlin, Charlottenburg · Hermannplatz · Kurfürstendamm · Müllerstraße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Berlin, Schloßstraße

Berlin, Ku’damm

Berlin, Hermannplatz

Berlin, Müllerstraße

Berlin, Tempelhof

Berlin, Spandau

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our Karstadt stores in Berlin.

· Schloßstraße · Spandau · Tempelhof

Berlin, Charlottenburg

Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N B E R L I N : • Tauentzienstraße 16, 030 - 21475516 • Königsallee 46, 0211 - 327608 • Theatinerstraße 40, 089 - 295293

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest assortment of leading beauty brands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Stanley Chow Contributors Josie Thaddeus-Johns, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing coordinator Nadine Tillmann Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 250025, visitberlin.de SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

My little

Mystery!

Sharam Diniz photographed by Matthew Brookes · www.meissen.com

MEISSEN ® Boutiquen Berlin Unter den Linden 39 B · telefon: +49 30 22679028 Im KaDeWe Berlin · tauentzienstrasse 21-24 · telefon: +49 3021964150 Kurfürstendamm 21 · telefon: +49 30 88625085

Contents p.62

P ro d u c t s 32 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Berlin this season 34 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 42 Street Style our pick of the best dressed during Berlin Fashion Week spring/summer 2014 N eWs 44 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Berlin 46 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

F e at u r e s 56 Cover Story: Street Cred Berlin has become known for its gritty, unconventional and innovative fashion scene, as charlie Neidpath explains 62 Putting Others In The Shade retro reissues, bespoke wooden creations and sport-luxe styles: German sunglasses are a triumph, says sally McIlhone 70 The Rest Is History among the cutting-edge boutiques, bars and restaurants are remnants of a much older Berlin, fnds stephen doig e X Pe r I e Nce 76 Raising The Bar a cocktail in Berlin is a glamorous experience, says Verity Hogan

Above: Kuboraum is among the many German brands making innovative sunglasses

TISSOT LUXURY AUTOMATIC chosen by Huang Xiaoming â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Actor

An exceptional and timeless piece offering 80 hours of power reserve with the revolutionary Powermatic 80 automatic movement, in a 316L stainless steel casing with see-through caseback and water resistance up to 5bar (50m / 165 ft).

IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME

Get in touch at www.tissot.ch

Contents

Gu i de 83 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Berlin, plus useful information for visitors 98 My City Fashion designer Peter Mahler shares his Berlin recommendations essenti a ls 106 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping

don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.

sOu v e n i R 120 the essential item to bring home

e nGl i sh | Р ус с к и й | 中文

the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Get social

Daily shoppinG neWs

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-the-minute shopping tips and insider information.

We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue /globalblue

globalblue.com

Win monthly competitions We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotels stays.

PHOTO: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Destination & buyinG GuiDes

t R a n s l at i O n s 108 Русский Перевод 113 美文翻译 116 日本語翻訳 119

DE.GANT.COM/STOREFINDER

GANT STORES BERLIN QUARTIER 206 & BIKINI-HAUS & LEIPZIGER PL ATZ

32 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

SPARKLE AND SHINE Light up your life with these stunning cocktail rings, which refect and bounce back even the smallest ray of sunshine. The typically beautiful pieces are from Christ, one of Germany’s most trusted jewellers. With stores located across the country, it is known for its thoughtful edit of the latest jewellery and timepieces from Burberry, DKNY, Fossil, Gucci and Michael Kors to name just a few. Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

This season, however, we’re very taken with these eye-catching rings from Christ’s own collection. Made out of yellow gold, with a choice of stones including citrine, rhodolite and amethyst, they will add a rich and vibrant burst of colour to any look. irs Christ Gold rings, price on request, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 213 3001, christ.de * for map go to page 87

MOSCHINO BOUTIQUE FRIEDRICHSTRASSE 71 10117 BERLIN

34 | P RO D U C T S

LIGHT ME UP

Bursts of blue and yellow keep things fresh in the summer sun

1. Sieger scarf, €149, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 21210, sieger.org

3. G-Star Raw jacket, €399.90, G-Star, Kurfürstendamm 16, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8800 7630, g-star.com

2. Apple iPad Air, from €479, iPad Mini, from €289, Apple, Kurfürstendamm 26, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5900 90000, apple.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

4. Church’s shoes, €595, Budapester Schuhe, Kurfürstendamm 43, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8862 4206, church-footwear.com

PHOTO: (7) PackSHOTfacTOry

S H O P | 35

5. Closed shirt, €199, Closed, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 32B, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2576 0876, closed.com 6. Ermenegildo Zegna bag, €995, Ermenegildo Zegna, Kurfürstendamm 185, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8871 9090, zegna.com globalblue.com

7. Cos trousers, €69, Cos, Kurfürstendamm 217, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8800 1987, cosstores.com

8. Montblanc iPad case, €580, Montblanc, Friedrichstrasse 80, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2038 8350, montblanc.com

36 | P RO D U C T S

PUNCHY PASTELS

Candy colours were everywhere on the catwalks this season 1

5 1. Bree bag, €499, Bree, Potsdamer Platz Arkaden, Alte Potsdamer Strasse 7, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3302 3664, bree.com

3. Swarovski bracelet, €69, Swarovski, Alexa, Grunerstrasse 20, 10179 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2472 4667, swarovski.com

2. Picard purse, €79.95, Picard Galerie, Quartier 206, Friedrichstrasse 71, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2094 4460, picard-lederwaren.de

4. Burberry dress, €2,395, Burberry, Kurfürstendamm 183, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 885 4811, burberry.com 5. Miu Miu shoes, €550, KaDeWe, 21-24 Tauentzienstrasse, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2145 8370, miumiu.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

38 | P RO D U C T S

SEA GREEN A mini Bluetooth speaker is the perfect gadget when relaxing on the beach

4 2

1. Monki bikini, €15 (top), €10 (bottoms), Monki, Münzstrasse 20, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2005 4116, monki.com

3. Jawbone Mini Jambox speaker, €179, Media Markt, Grunerstrasse 20, 10179 Berlin, +49 (0)30 240 8840, jawbone.com

2. Hermès sandals, €920, Hermès, Kurfürstendamm 58, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3270 8375, hermes.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

4. Bulgari bracelet, €300, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2360 9360, bulgari.com

PHOTO: (2) VICENTE SAHUC; ( 4) MAUrO FAbbIO STUdIO FOTOgrAFICO

Bogner Berlin Kurf端rstendamm 42 bogner.com

40 | P RO D U C T S

BLACK, WHITE AND STRIPES

Red lipstick will have you feeling glamorous in an instant 1

1. Face Stockholm lipstick, €23, Departmentstore Quartier 206, Friedrichstrasse 71, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2094 6500, facestockholm.com

3. Mango jacket, €49.99, Mango, Tauentzienstrasse 17, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2128 0100, mango.com

2. Acne sweater, €250, Acne Studios, Münzstrasse 21, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2804 4870, acnestudios.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

4. Jimmy Choo shoes, €550, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4980 7503, jimmychoo.com

PHOTO: (4) RicHaRd Valencia PHOTOgRaPHy

S H O P | 41

5. Louis Vuitton bag, price on request, Louis Vuitton, Kurfürstendamm 56-57, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 882 5272, louisvuitton.com

globalblue.com

6. Konplott earrings, €169, Konplott, Kurfürstendamm 201, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8862 5150, konplott.com

7. Marc Cain skirt, €159.90, Marc Cain, Friedrichstrasse 61, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2007 7219, marc-cain.com

42 | P RO D U C T S

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a certain energy to MercedesBenz Berlin Fashion Week, which is visible of the catwalk as much as it is on it. In a city renowned for setting its own style rules, we picked our best dressed during the event. Pairing pastel forals with a leopard-print Stella McCartney handbag, say, makes for a fun, yet chic look

PHOTOS: FedericO rOmanO

Street Style

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

S H O P | 43

globalblue.com

VO U RI

SHOP

44 | N E W S

PHOTO: CHriSTian TeSSmer

Shop Window

DOUBLE DELIGHT Following on from the success of its store in Berlin’s Mitte district, APC has opened a second store just of Kurfürstendamm on the west side of the city. The Parisian brand is a favourite of those who prefer a minimalist style, and the store aesthetics follow suit. Plenty of open space and a blonde wood interior create a breezy environment which allows the clothing – daywear staples in soft, muted tones Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

which combine utility with an understated elegance – to speak for itself. The spring/ summer womenswear collection encompasses shirts, tunic dresses and jumpsuits, while the menswear focuses on shirts, chinos, jeans and jackets. There is also a small selection of homeware items, including scented candles, cushions and rugs, and an eclectic selection of music on CD and vinyl. gl APC, Fasanenstrasse 22D, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8870 8544, apc.fr * for map go to page 87

Berlin: Leipziger Platz Quartier, Friedrichstraße 158–164, Kurfürstendamm 213 & Alexa/Gruner Str. 20

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BETTER BY DESIGN Not just a luxury car maker, Porsche is committed to great design across the board, and its Porsche Design arm, founded in 1972, ofers functional and timeless pieces. From writing tools to luxury watches, the design team believes in stripping items back to their core, before rebuilding and reimagining them. The results are beautiful yet uncomplicated, where form does not take attention away from the cutting-edge manufacturing techniques. The two-storey Berlin store showcases the brand’s entire collection, from glasses and timepieces to mobile phones and other electronics. The store also gives centre stage to the ready-to-wear collections for men and women, of which the brand is rightly proud. hl Porsche Design, Münzstrasse 14, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2345 9802, porsche-design.com * for map go to page 96

ONE FOR THE BOYS Founded in 2000 by designer Wibke Deertz, menswear label AD Deertz embodies the casual-cool menswear aesthetic for which Berlin has become celebrated. The AD Deertz fagship stocks the designer’s own collection of classic, contemporary wardrobe staples, many of which are inspired by her travels, with pieces made from material she discovered in Bolivia, and products created using manufacturing methods she learned during her time in Bangkok. The store also showcases a selection of hand-picked pieces from designers who share Deertz’s passion for traditional production processes, quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. A clean, minimalist oasis for the laidback urban man, the store is the perfect setting for the clothes, mixed with beautiful accessories and ornaments from all over the world – so you can pick up something unique while enjoying the best of Berlin’s menswear. rp AD Deertz, Torstasse 106, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9120 6630, addeertz.com * for map go to page 96 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

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TWICE AS NICE A beautiful store with an impressive selection of international designers, Schwarzhogerzeil has long been the place to go for those in the know. Now that a second store has opened, just around the corner from the original, fans can browse an even wider selection of great labels. The established names of the frst Schwarzhogerzeil, such as Carven, Isabel Marant and Vanessa Bruno, have always been complemented by a selection of smaller labels, and shop number two continues this idea, with a more casual aesthetic. Look out for French brands Le Mont Saint Michel and Ba&sh, as well as Medecine Douce’s beautiful jewellery. hl Schwarzhogerzeil II, Mulackstrasse 23, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 7544 2210, schwarzhogerzeil.de

In brief: — With Marc Jacobs having just left Louis Vuitton to focus on his own label, there’s no better time to invest in his designs. Visit his recently opened accessories store in Berlin’s Galeries Lafayette

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SCENTS OF STYLE A welcoming store that smells even better than it looks, the Douglas perfumery on Berlin’s Grunerstrasse has something for every taste, from Mercedes-Benz to Michael Kors. Think of a fragrance and it’s likely you’ll fnd it here; Douglas has a comprehensive range, from high-end classics to the latest celebrity-endorsed fragrance. Focusing on innovative service, Douglas ofers a personal and attentive experience. hl Douglas, Grunerstrasse 20, 10179 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2576 2099, douglas.de * for map go to page 96

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WE LOVE LUNETTES Uta Geyer founded Lunettes Selection in 2006 as a place to fnd the beautiful vintage eyewear she had been searching for. Carefully selected vintage designs are still a focus of her brand, but since the opening of her second store on Torstrasse Geyer has also ofered her own label, Lunettes Kollektion. These frames are vintage-inspired with a modern edge, and to maintain the highest standards each pair is assembled by hand in Italy or Germany at a handful of small family-run factories, chosen with an aim to support talented small businesses. This combination of modern design with traditional manufacturing processes not only ensures the glasses’ individuality, but also lowers the carbon footprint of the brand, something the team is passionate about. hl Lunettes Selection, Torstrasse 172, 10115 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2021 5216, lunettes-kollektion.com

PHOTO: © Milena CarSTenS für luneTTeS

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

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One of Europe’s leading functional outdoor apparel brands, Jack Wolfskin stands out for two key reasons. First, the brand is committed to responsible manufacturing and limiting its environmental footprint. Jack Wolfskin is at the forefront of innovative product research, developing the most eco-friendly production methods possible. Second, Jack Wolfskin brings a level of style to outdoor clothing that many brands don’t achieve. This Covent Garden backpack is padded for comfort and insulation, but also streamlined and compact, meaning that, even if you don’t venture of the beaten track, it will look great when you are simply exploring the city. hl Jack Wolfskin, Behrenstrasse 23-24, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2064 8070, jack-wolfskin.com * for map go to page 95

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THE AMAZING MR LAGERFELD Being creative director at two major fashion houses, Chanel and Fendi, would really be enough for most people. But not for Karl Lagerfeld, who somehow fnds the time to run his ever-expanding eponymous fashion line as well. His beautiful womenswear store in Mitte is a great addition to Berlin’s fashion scene, and the German-born designer’s edgy collections are a perfect ft for the city. Lagerfeld’s own line has a younger and more casual aesthetic, with punk and grunge proving big infuences, though Lagerfeld’s talent means that what could look like simple streetwear takes on a new level of elegance. Never one to shy away from the limelight, Lagerfeld is fond of a bit of self-referencing in his fashion, and each season sees a few pieces sporting illustrations of the man himself. Unusual it may be, but there’s no better ponytailed head to be spotted wearing this season. hl Karl Lagerfeld, Neue Schönhauser Strasse 8, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2809 6590, karl.com * for map go to page 96 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

VIVA BERLIN Silo Store was set up to bring Spanish design to a German audience known for its appreciation of high-quality, well-thought-out products. This stark yet low-key concept store showcases the best of Iberian goods, with a focus on ethical and eco-friendly products. You’ll fnd traditional Spanish culinary items, such as pouring cans for olive oil and Blanxart chocolate, side by side with pieces by emerging Spanish fashion labels, including BoTwist’s chilli pepper-printed blouses. In many cases, Silo is the only German stockist of these brands, so you won’t fnd their wares anywhere else. jtj Silo Store, Senefelderstrasse 33, 10437 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5268 4633, silo-store.com

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PRACTICAL MAGIC The word ‘conceptual’ can be a sign that design is about to get complicated, as it’s often applied to ideas that are great in theory but, in practice, lack functionality. New Tendency may be an exception to this trend. The brand’s clear, minimalist collections are original and quirky, without losing the focus on usability that is necessary for truly excellent design. Standout products include a recent jewellery collection, including the delicate chain pictured below, and the award-winning shelf system Shift, which can be endlessly rearranged to create storage that magically fts all your treasured objects. Its signature piece, however, is the Meta side table, which seems to change shape depending on where the viewer is standing. Forward-thinking, yet instantly classic, New Tendency’s designs do exactly what interior design should: improve your life and your home. jtj Gestalten Space, Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Sophienstrasse 21, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2021 5821, newtendency.de * for map go to page 96

Between crowd-funded projects, public votes and live-streamed shows, fashion lovers are becoming more and more involved in how clothes are designed. Berlin’s Front Row Society is a perfect example. The core team picks a challenge (previous ones have included graphic lace, collage and digital glitch), to which its open collective of designers then responds. Members of the public get to vote for their favourites: true fashion democracy. The resulting graphics are used to create everything from leggings and iPad cases to gorgeous silk scarves and, new for 2014, a range of swimwear based on the theme of African heat. The coolest way for new names to get noticed, it’s also a great way to buy cutting-edge pieces. jtj KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 21210, frontrowsociety.com * for map go to page 87 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

PHOTO: HAW LIN

PEOPLE POWER

BRANDS Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...

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PHOTO: AnkA BArdeleBen

SHOP THE WORLD

COOL CONCEPT Set up in 2003, concept store Konk gives local independent designers a platform and is renowned as a hub of emerging talent in Berlin. Founder Ettina Berrios-Négron encouraged the designers she stocked to develop their own style, vision and creative practices, and not to concern themselves too much with following trends. New owner Edda Mann has introduced menswear to the store, as well as a focus on fair trade, fair production and sustainability. However, the original principles of unbounded creativity and emerging talent remain fundamental to the store’s continued success. If individuality and being the frst to wear the ‘next big brand’ are high on your style agenda, then this is the store for you. gl Konk, Kleine Hamburger Strasse 15, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2809 7839, konk-berlin.de Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

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Above: Berlin street style mixes streetwear and high-end pieces

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Berlin has come to be known for its gritty, unconventional and innovative fashion scene, as Charlie Neidpath explains

PHOTO: Onin LOrenTe

STREET CRED

‘Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening,’ Coco Chanel famously said. Although it would seem odd to imagine Chanel’s pearls and bouclé tweeds on the gritty streets of Berlin, something of her take on style rings very true in the city. For it is from Berlin’s streets that its innovative, arresting and distinctive fashion scene has arisen. From the winding lanes of Mitte to the leafy boulevards of Schöneberg, street style is integral to the city’s fashion identity. And while wearing top-to-toe designer would be entirely acceptable in Paris or Milan, in Berlin such a notion would be entirely at odds with how its citizens dress. Artisanal denim labels, cult stores in hard-to-fnd locations, sports infuences, street trends and a sense of renegade cool are what distinguish the city.

PHOTO: © BreadandBuTTer.cOM/Lina Zangers

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‘With Paris, you have prêt-à-porter, haute couture. Milan is associated with formal black tie and eveningwear at Prada, Gucci and so on. With London, people think about the underground talent scene, but with Berlin it’s streetwear brands that come to mind,’ says the city’s fashion guru Karl-Heinz Müller, who runs both the highly respected twice-ayear Bread & Butter trade show and his own cutting-edge denim concept store 14oz (named after the perfect weight of denim). That’s perhaps not surprising. With every other sector of fashion frmly ‘sewn up’, Berlin’s creatives had to muscle in on an area that hadn’t been explored before, which is why street style and cool urbanwear became the city’s hallmark. Moreover, textiles and sportswear had always been a big part of the city’s industry, so it’s natural that these have become key elements of how people dress. Appropriately, the sleek ofces of Bread & Butter are perched above an Adidas store. Above: street fashion at Bread & Buter

Berlin’s concept stores, galleries and warehouses provide evidence of an ability to meld luxury with streetwear

To Müller, what makes Berlin unique isn’t just its history, but its location at a crossroads of European cultures and its place as a gateway to the west. ‘Creatives have always made the city their home, but after the fall of the Wall more than ever Berlin became this hub of energy,

PHOTO: ugur OrHanOgLu

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ideas and experimentation,’ he comments. Experimentation is seen at every turn in Berlin, not only in how its dashing citizens choose to dress but in the city’s avant-garde stores, which marry ofbeat high-end fashion with sports and street infuences – here, teaming your Nikes with Hermès is perfectly natural. This attitude to fashion fnds its natural expression in Berlin’s concept stores, of which 14oz – now with two outlets, the original in Mitte being a bare-brick temple of cool – is one of the most renowned. It has made its name selling a heady mix of emerging labels, artisanal denim (a key part of street style), historical names and international brands: Canada Goose jackets alongside Italian heritage label Borsalino’s hats, G-Star denim next to Savile Row tailor Drake’s scarves. In Tiergarten, Darklands – all exposed beams and concrete – is just as faithful in promoting experimental fashion. From Boris Bidjan Saberi and Rick Owens to the worn-

Above (from top): 14oz concept store; 14oz and Bread & Buter founder Karl-Heinz Müller

PHOTO: GEOrG rOskE

PHOTO: EsTEfania CamPillO

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Above (from top): Darklands; Voo

efect leather accessories of Carol Christian Poell, the boundary-pushing elements of fashion are given full rein. At Voo, in nearby Kreuzberg, Carin Wester down jackets covered in prints of animal tails, logoed Kenzo sweaters and marble-efect limited-edition Nike trainers cater to every taste. Creative director Herbert Hofmann says, ‘Voo’s concept is following a certain lifestyle. We love fashion, music, art, good craftsmanship.’ Beyond the concept stores, the galleries and warehouses of east Berlin, as well as the city’s fashion week and the bright young things who attend it in photo-worthy outfts, provide further evidence of an ability to meld luxury with streetwear. In a city that’s had to adapt to dramatic changes, it’s hardly surprising that its fashion scene has such a strong nonconformist streak. Even Coco Chanel might be a little impressed breadandbutter.com, 14oz-berlin.com, darklandsberlin.com, vooberlin.com

StrellSon Store, M端nzStraSSe 8, Berlin

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PUTTING OTHERS IN THE SHADE

Thanks to retro reissues, bespoke wooden creations and functional sport-luxe styles, the German sunglasses industry is booming as never before. Sally McIlhone reveals the brands to know

One would expect the new home of contemporary sunglasses design to be bathed in perpetual sunshine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but Berlin has never been a city to conform to stereotype. The ever-intriguing German capital has recently become a hub for daring designer shades, with brands producing styles that channel retro 80s chic, are hand-sculpted from wood, and

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are made without the use of screws. From the ultramodern to the avant-garde, these Berlin-based brands are keeping the cuttingedge fashion crowd looking cool throughout the year. Mykita is rapidly becoming a sunglasses brand thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s known worldwide. Though its home and creative studio are in Berlin, Opposite: Kuboraum Julius mask

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the brand now has seven fagship stores and its wares are stocked in more than 70 boutiques internationally. Moritz Krueger, its CEO and creative director, explains that keeping the entire Mykita team under one hip Berlin roof is vital to its creative vision. ‘In our Mykita Haus we have all departments, enabling the best synergies and the ability to react very quickly,’ he says. Mykita’s Berlin-centric approach has been incredibly efective. The brand recently launched the Mykita Mylon collection, a range of high-end sports sunglasses made from polyamide. ‘There is no competition to this material in the eyewear world – it’s lightweight, it’s adjustable, it’s durable and fexible,’ says Moritz. ‘It also ofers a very new aesthetic, because we tried to give the people the touch and the feel of the original material. We have since won an International Forum Design Award and a Red Dot Design Award for this collection.’ Another directional sunglasses name in the city is Kuboraum. Founded in February 2012, the season-less brand describes its products as ‘masks’ rather than sunglasses, Above (from top): Mykita Haus in Berlin; Mykita Mylon collection

The ever-intriguing German capital has become a hub for daring designer shades

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an edgy ideology that’s helped it open a fagship in Berlin and a shop-in-shop in Tokyo’s prestigious Isetan department store. Sergio Eusebi, Kuboraum’s brand, communication and marketing director, divulges the brand’s unique philosophy. ‘The mask is an extraordinary inorganic object; it has a power that’s beyond its use,’ Eusebi explains. ‘We have found a new way to defne our work. Not glasses, but masks.’ Vintage-lovers will revel in the retro appeal of Cazal’s designs, found in Berlin’s Eye Couture boutique. Dating back to 1975, the brand takes its name from that of its key designer, the late Cari Zalloni. Zalloni’s striking designs became cult pieces, with many Above: Kuboraum describes its sunglasses as ‘masks’

of the styles embraced as status symbols by those in the New York hip hop scene. As Cazal’s CEO Beate Obersteiner refects: ‘His style was so unique, his ideas so innovative that one could always tell a Cazal from far away. A Cazal frame dresses faces, it’s not meant to hide them.’ The brand recently re-launched certain classics with its Cazal Legends range and plans to build on this for 2014. ‘Cazal is working on a ladies’ collection with very strong elements from the 1980s interpreted for today’s demands.’ For something more bespoke, Herrlicht’s wooden-framed sunglasses – found at Brillenschneiderei – are a superb choice. Andreas Licht’s brand, which celebrates

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Berlin-based brands are keeping the cutting-edge fashion crowd looking cool

its 10th anniversary this year, developed from his aptitude in making wooden furniture. ‘I love the material and wanted to try something with it that no one had done before,’ Licht reveals. Using only wood from trees native to Germany, and taking 10 to 15 painstaking hours to make, Herrlicht’s glasses are a thoroughly artisanal option. ‘Herrlicht glasses are no mass product; every piece is one of a kind. And the material allures people: it has warmth, it’s light, it’s beautiful to look at. Some of our customers are explicitly interested in our frames because of the craftsmanship of their making,’ Licht says. If you prefer your sunglasses to fuse function with fashion, seek out Ic Berlin, which produces screwless sunglasses. ‘The idea was to create a simple screwless hinge inspired by the aesthetics of military cars,’ says the label’s founder Ralph Anderl. Creating glasses around the central concept

of function has seen the brand stocked around the world. ‘Comfortable, useful glasses last longer than just cool, stylish ones,’ comments Anderl. ‘On the other hand, the glasses have to look good on the face of the customers. So we are very much about style and design.’ The best place to invest in a pair of Ic Berlin sunglasses is at its Berlin store, with its comfy leather seats and a speaker-stacked till point. ‘When Ic Berlin started, there was no optical industry in Berlin,’ Anderl continues. ‘Right now, after and inspired by Ic Berlin, there are several frame brands. Berlin and Germany is very much coming back in the optical feld. I’m looking forward to seeing more and more products that are made in Germany on the noses of woman and men worldwide …’ With a market as booming as this, he won’t be waiting long mykita.com, kuboraum.com, cazal-eyewear.com, herrlicht.de, ic-berlin.de

Above (from lef): Cazal’s Cazal Legends range revisits classic sunglasses design; Herrlicht wooden-framed sunglasses

PHOTO: THE KOBAL COLLECTION/ABC/ALLIED ARTISTS

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THE REST IS HISTORY

Among the cutting-edge boutiques, bars and restaurants are the remnants of a much older – and equally fascinating – Berlin. Stephen Doig steps back in time There can’t be many cities in the world that have the kind of utterly fascinating history that Berlin can lay claim to. Changing landscapes and regimes, divisions and reunions: the city has been as ever-evolving as a sand dune. There are echoes of the past everywhere, from the Brandenburg gate to Museumsinsel, providing a counterpoint to its cutting-edge design and fashion scene with its hip stores, restaurants, galleries, bars and hotels all clamouring for the title of Next Cool Thing. Among all this are the nuggets of a Berlin immortalised to great efect in the writings of Christopher Isherwood, as well as traces of an even older city, which are well worth exploring today. Perhaps the most ftting starting point is the district where Isherwood made his home, Schöneberg. It was here, on leafy Nollendorfstrasse, that the novelist shared lodgings with the model and singer Jean Ross, his inspiration for the character of Sally Bowles in Goodbye to Berlin, the character immortalised by Liza Minnelli in the flm version, Cabaret. The author plunged into the

Above: Russian caption xxxxx qui offciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi q

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PHOTO: Bernd sCHönBerger

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There are echoes of the past everywhere you go in Berlin

Previous page: Liza Minnelli in Cabaret, 1972 Above(from top) Clärchens Ballhaus; Christopher Isherwood (lef) and WH Auden (right), 1939

PHOTO: CArL VAn VeCHTen/LIBrAry Of COngress

hedonistic life of the Weimar Republic during his stay, and it’s fascinating to see the place he so eloquently described as ‘the deep solemn massive street. Cellar-shops where the lamps burn all day, under the shadow of top-heavy balconied façades.’ A stone’s throw away was the Eldorado, the inspiration behind the club in Goodbye to Berlin; Schöneberg-born Marlene Dietrich herself performed there. Now it’s a small supermarket, but it still has the name ‘Eldorado’ above the door and inside is a display of intriguing black-and-white photos from the club’s heyday. The bars, cofee shops and stores that Isherwood frequented may have long since shut down, but the decadent atmosphere of 1920s Berlin is captured perfectly in Schöneberg bars such as Stagger Lee. Perhaps one of the areas most evocative of the past is the historic Nikolaiviertel district, a quiet warren of streets between the bustle of Alexanderplatz and Museumsinsel. Here you will fnd pretty Zum Nussbaum pub, with a history dating back hundreds of years. It’s the perfect spot to indulge in a beer and some bratwurst and listen to tales of old Berlin while you admire the sketches on the wall done by 19th-century cartoonist Heinrich Zille, who was a regular visitor. Afterwards head to

opulent Clärchens Ballhaus, a 100-year-old dance hall which has twinkling chandeliers, ornate wood-panelled décor and a live band playing most nights – it’s like stepping back in time. Another spot where the past is celebrated in glorious style is the historic Berlin manufactory of KPM (Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur), the porcelain maker founded in 1793 by Frederick the Great. Today, the classical restraint of the label is still evident in handcrafted pieces such as elegant dinner sets in the label’s signature pearl tones, with gold-leaf touches and hand-painted fower motifs. A shopping experience of an altogether diferent kind takes place at Hackesche Höfe, a series of eight linked historic courtyards that were immaculately restored in the 1990s as a cultural hub for the area. Among its quirky range of shops are those that specialise in handmade soaps, cutting-edge book stores and old-world jewellery boutiques. Wander through the cobbled courtyards like a latter-day Sally Bowles picking out her next stage costume. Those similarly enamoured of vintage style should head to Antikmarkt am Ostbahnhof, open every Sunday, which sells a treasure trove

PHOTO: eriK bOHr

PHOTO: © PenTanex GMbH/PHOTO by C HeCHenberG

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of antiques, from gramophones and trumpets to sumptuous 1920s gowns. The wild nightlife of the Weimar years that Isherwood described so memorably may be a thing of the past, but you can at least enjoy dressing the part staggerlee.de, ballhaus.de, kpm-berlin.com, hackesche-hoefe.com

Above (from top): Hackesche Höfe; KPM’s sales gallery in Leipziger Strasse, 1890

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Raising the BaR Berlin’s nightlife is known for its diversity, but its chic speakeasy-style cocktail bars are rapidly becoming some of the city’s most popular afterdark venues. Verity Hogan seeks out some of the German capital’s best drinking spots

Berlin’s nightlife is defned by its variety; there is a venue to suit every taste, from hidden drinking dens and traditional pubs to smart wine bars and outdoor clubs. Among this plethora of options, Berlin’s style-conscious cocktail bars are growing in popularity, with Mitte, the city’s most cosmopolitan district, ofering the greatest variety. Standards are excellent, with classic mixes executed perfectly, while high-concept interiors attract a creative clientele. Nights out in Berlin can continue until dawn; most clubs don’t start to fll up until around 2am and the party can continue well into the following morning. Special events in the city’s drinking calendar include the annual international beer festival at the beginning of August, which attracts a million visitors to its mile-long beer garden, while professional bartenders from across Europe fock to the city in late September or early October for Bar Convent Berlin, an exhibition held by the local Mixology magazine. globalblue.com

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NEuE OdESSA BAr Neue Odessa is the kind of bar you visit intending to have one cocktail, but end up spending the entire evening. Its appeal lies in its unusual russian theme; the dĂŠcor is wonderfully rich with art deco undertones, large mirrors, low lighting and plenty of dark corners to hide away in. The russian theme continues in the cocktail list; every drink is meticulously made, but the Moscow Mule, mixing vodka, ginger, lemon juice and cucumber slices, provides a guaranteed kick. Take advantage of the table service and late opening hours to sit back and relax. Neue Odessa Bar, Torstrasse 89, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9212 5732, neueodessabar.de

PHOTO: Magdalena BicHler

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Luzia The best place to see and be seen in Berlin’s Kreuzberg district, Luzia is one of the city’s most talked-about drinking dens. The bar’s interior attracts as much attention as its clientele; its stripped-back, industrial aesthetic is enhanced with exposed brick walls, vintage globalblue.com

velvet armchairs and artfully torn baroque wallpaper. The cocktail menu covers all the classics, crafted from high-quality spirits and expertly mixed. Choose a table near the front to ensure you get noticed. Luzia, Oranienstrasse 34, 10999 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8179 9958, luzia.tc

PHOTO: diePHOTOdesigner.de

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S p i n dL e r & K L aT T a supper club located on the banks of the Spree, Spindler & Klatt ofers relaxed dining, expertly mixed cocktails and outstanding river views from its terrace. The bar is housed within a former military bakery and makes use of its warehouse proportions to play host to

electro, soul and disco house dJs. its interior is sleek and modern with low-level bench seating, intricate light fxtures and displays of pop art, but on warmer days people fock to the outdoor terrace to enjoy a chilled cocktail while drinking in the views. Spindler & Klatt, Kรถpenickerstrasse 16-17, 10997 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3198 81860, spindlerklatt.com

PHOTO: daniel reiTer

80 | E X P E R I E N C E

M e l ody N e l soN Ba r

PHOTO: diePHOTOdesigner.de

Melody Nelson Bar takes its name from a 1971 serge Gainsbourg concept album, featuring the vocals of Jane Birkin, and it is her iconic image that dominates the décor of this chic hideaway. The bar interior resembles a traditional French salon with plush fabrics and atmospheric lighting, while

its cocktail selection ofers well-made classics alongside a range of sours. If nothing appeals at frst glance, ask the bar staf to make one of their famed specials – their fresh take on otherwise traditional mixes is sure to surprise and delight. Melody Nelson Bar, Novalisstrasse 2, 10115 Berlin, +49 (0)177 744 6751

GreeN door after locating the modest green sign and ringing the doorbell, patrons of Green door will step back in time thanks to the bar’s retro décor which falls just the right side of kitsch. Gingham wallpaper, 70s-style photographs and an illuminated dog mascot keeping watch on the bar provide character, while the cocktail globalblue.com

menu is one of the most extensive in the city. every month a new special is added to the selection but the bar’s signature cocktail, the Green door, is reliably delicious with its refreshing combination of Champagne, lemon, sugar and mint. Green Door, Winterfeldtstrasse 50, 10718 Berlin, +49 (0)30 215 2515, greendoor.de

Experience in our year-

round stores the love for traditions and beauty. Discover throughout the year the largest selection of traditional German Christmas decorations like nutcrackers, Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, music boxes, light arches, Christmas tree ornaments made of glass, wood and pewter and much more in an enchanting atmosphere.

The worldwide known specialist for traditional German Christmas decorations and unique handmade gifts.

www.wohlfahrt.com In 7 major tourist locations in Germany, always in the city center

We also carry in our stores a large variety of German souvenirs, cuckoo clocks and exclusive products from world-famous German brands as well as the lovely and handmade products from our own artist workshop, the “Rothenburger Weihnachtswerkstatt”.

Don’t miss a visit to

one of our stores in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Nuremberg, worldwide Oberammergau, shipping Heidelberg, Bamberg or Rüdesheim We are looking forward to your visit!

Shopping from home - visit our online-shop:

The Christmas Shopping Experience

www.bestofchristmas.com

Berlin · Kurfürstendamm 225/226

The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save

The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register *Subject to local conditions.

G U I D E | 83

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating a new city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Berlin, with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/berlin or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

84 | G U I D E

West Berlin SCHILLE T R

SCHLÜTER

EN BE

E SS RA ST

FAS A NEN S T

R A SSE

UH LA ND ST R

KN ESE BEC KST

R A SSE FAS A NEN ST

RA SSE

ST R AS SE

BL EI BT RE U

Train Station

RA SS E U H LA N D ST

R ST R A SS E

TR A SS E

S ÄCH S

PA R I S E R S T R

FA S A N E N ST R

A SS E

R A SSE UHL A NDST

ST RA SSE

EMSE R S

STR .

IS CH E

S SE

SSE ST R A

HE S TR A RISC BAY E

ENZ ER B R EG

SS E

SCH LÜ TER STR RA SSE

SC HLÜ TE R ST

U-Bahn

LI ET ZE N BU

PFA L Z BU RGE

K N E SE BE CK

Global Blue Refund Point

UH LA ND ST RA

ASS E

WIE L A ND STR ASS E

WIE LA N D STR

Place Of Interest

DUISBERGER STR.

Kempinski Bristol Hotel

Berlin Plaza Hotel

MM N ADMAM

. R BRUGREGRESRT RS T BU NN EE LLIIEETTZZ PL.

UHLANDSTRASSE

P.89

OLIV AER

UR FKÜ

KU R

E SNTD R FSÜTRE

ASSE

A SSE

L EIB NIZ ST R

Heckers Hotel

P.86

TR .

M OMM SENS TRAS

P.89

Hotel Savoy K A NTSTR A S

SAVIGNYPLATZ

Hotel Bogota

X A NTEN ER S

K NE SE B EC

L EI BN IZ ST

W EI M A R E R S T R .

SS E

NIEBU HR STR

SYBELSTRASSE

KA NT ST RA

NIEBUH RSTRA SSE

P.88

SSTR TS E A SS E

ST R A SS E

IS T R A S SE

Berlin Excelsior Hotel

KS T RA SS E

P E S TA L O Z Z

K A NTKA ST RA N

M O M MS EN

SSE

RA S SE

P.88

GOE THESTR A

G O E THEST R A S S E

GOETHESTRASSE

A SS E

SSE

R ER

HERDER STRA

IM A

STR A SSE

S TRA SSE

R STR A SS

ST R

A SS

SC HI L L E

Hotel

RG ER ST R

S H O P | 85

JEEB BEEB BSSS ST RT

.R .

ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN

Hotel Dorint-Schweizer Hof

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ES T

ENS

TR A

STR B AC

A NS

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TR A SS

TR.

FU GGER .

R ST R A

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SRT

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R ST

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R ST R.

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Crowne Plaza

Hotel Elington

Steigenberger Hotel Berlin

TR RS

SEE

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Hotel Palace

NÜ

EERR GSET RR .S

Hotel Concorde

LIET

BUNDESA LLE

KURFÜRSTENDAMM

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L E R ST R. Berlin Mark Hotel

DA M

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TR . RR. S B U DBAUP S TPEERSSTTE DE A

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THEATER OF THE WEST

. R. RT SRTS T SETRE

K E ITHSTR A SSE

EUROPA CENTER

PEES DDAAP

BERLIN ZOO

SSE

N AU

ERP

BuCheReR

SHOP Recommendation

STR A SS NA

U H LA N D

UH LA N D S

G A R A DA N D E RL D O Z E I ●P S G L E I ● J RMEN ● E OLEX ●R Y ERR URB ●B

TR A SSE

TR AS ST

NIZ S HT

ADE

Bucherer, Kurfürstendamm 45, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 880 4030, bucherer.com

One of the leaders in the Swiss watch and jewellery sector and a company that has become synonymous with quality, Bucherer has a prestigious reputation. The company was established by Carl-Friedrich Bucherer in 1888 and is still family-run today, resulting in a collection that is steeped in tradition and a team of staf who are experts in their feld. The range includes almost 50,000 diferent items; pearl and gemstone creations, designed and handcrafted in Bucherer’s in-house workshops, are ofered alongside the fnest timepieces by Rolex, Cartier, Omega and Chopard.

RGER STR .

LIETZENBU RA MA AX ●M I ALD E RIN U Q I NA OUT ARI ● M SION B AS ●P Z L AT

L EIB

RGI

AS SE

GIO

RIC

● LOT ● HUB TO N UIT ● IS V INO ENT ● VA L R M È S HE

ASH

● GLI MA NO RT ● BRU SPO ● ION

A DA

GHI

ESC

BOR

SOANA ●

PL.

OLIV AER

DA M

STEN

NI F

DAM

KN E SEB ECK

A SSE

SC H L ÜTE RST

ST RA SS E

ST RA SSE

BL EI BT RE U

L EIB NIZ S T R

MOM MSE NSTR ASS

RUNG NAPA ●

RA SSE

NIE BUH RST

FÜR

IT ZS TR

PAT

E PEP LS ● IZIA CK E AT R HEN ●P S● L K J .A . GLA O EC ISTO NG DOU OCH ● ●R H ILLI P E &B ZW OY ●M E E● LER EMP BRE VIL ●W STE SE KE ● ACO AS ●L FA L M I ● TR ER NS TU IN ● ALM K MA K OL ●P A AC GR LFS F ● EN N L O F A KW T EI LD M ●V S J AC RFE VE ● CTI AG E ● ●L EL A NEL E C A M S T E FA HEK P OT LD A NFE ● OSE OT ●R O YBO E ● &C H HE N AV DEF CHU CHU JUN ● R ● RS ER S STE GNE EST O B APE E● DA P N I U BUD K N TA P ● ●B HAR E FO AM &S ANN NGCH ON ● AU L RM LO ● ●P E R V E ● HER BUC LLINO PA DA A N O CO SCA MIL I PIN ● E OGGI ESSE IN ● B TREN P P LE CROIX I● ● S HILIP CE L A ELF ED RI 0 ●P U .9 P ERI ● MA ● FÜM sz NGE N PA R Gro A LA SIG ● REN OZ H E D E RD NN ● 1 4O R S C LFO LMA LLI WO ● P U CCI K H E L U CI N E D● ZAR ● G AT R I C L L O C É LE ● ● P UNE I REN R NER GAR ●B L AIG LE ● U IL ●B YW A FRE IER S● BAN ART & GAB NTU ●C M I E L LY ● E O LC R D BA ● ●D NN A MA 4 ● HOP ELL 5 ●C M K H RILLE I ● C B AN ●M RM OA

NIEBUH RSTRA SSE

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

LOU

LAM

SYBELSTR.

KU R

VERONICA POHLE ●

Restaurant

ST RA SS E M O M MS EN

R STEN KUR FÜ CL AU SW

RA SSE

86 | G U I D E

Kurfürstendamm, Joachimstaler Strasse & Tauentzienstrasse

S H O P | 87

BURBERRY BULGARI CALVIN KLEIN CELINE stoRE CHoPARD CHRIst P.32 DIEsEL DIoR FENDI HERMÈs HUGo Boss JIL sANDER LACostE LoUIs VUIttoN

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●

HM IC

●

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MIU MIU MoNtBLANC NEsPREsso oMEGA NIKI PRADA RoLEX RosENtHAL stEIFF soNY tIFFANY & Co. toD’s VERtU WELLENDoRF WMF

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Kadewe

BAC

SELECTED STORES IN KADEWE:

P.52/98

●

ANS

STR

PER

SCH A

EIS

LE GO SP RIT T ● OR ER T●

LIET

STR A S

&B EA H& R ● RO DE MO M ● M O S I G DA ● MA RB N S UA L UR GE FO O AD OON ● RS T ● TR L O I DA ● . CK S ● FO ER SS BE ● ● IL RS EU HK RO M DO AN A PA ● UG GO CE SW Pe L ● NT AS ● ES A P ek ER BE RO U MA ● PR &C ● NE VS I ● T S lop T T KI AT ● ON UR pe N ● nb

SSE

JO AC HI M ST AL ER ST R .

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P.98

TA U

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EST ER

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●

FA S A N E N S T R A

●

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APOTHEKE IN DER METROPOLE ●

A SI MEN GAZ FOR YI M A FFS ALA ●O ●B

RT FA H OHL EW ÄT H ●K KER É LOC K C A F C OOT ● F R D RO OLO A ● H A R C O ’P ●M

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● A P C.44 P

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AN URB S● TER FIT OUT ES NEU ● E ECK NZ ● KRA BER WE ● RY H&M

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FÜ

ER LEN A S L M I L AC E ● B AREN RTH F E● K NO ● ERI HE GAL PPLE ● ● T OS WE A D● ● CO M M Y E R LOE LAN R ● T LFIG BER U I TIM ARBO R ● ●H B PE C AM CHT ● KNE

ULI

KUR

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AMM

APOTHEKE ● AM ZOO

REP

Karstadt Sport

END

ZOO PALAST

BEATE UHSE ●

SS E

K A N T S T RA

Wempe The diverse yet universally high-quality timepieces and jewellery available from Wempe have helped the company to become one of Germany’s most prestigious brands. The label was established in 1878 and since then has cultivated a distinctive collection of exquisite timepieces and standout jewellery. every piece is individual and makes use of the fnest materials, such as diamonds, pearls and gemstones, while the store’s own timepiece collection is complemented by a range of watches by leading international brands, including Cartier, Breitling, Rolex, Longines and Vacheron Constantin.

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Wempe, Kurfürstendamm 215, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 882 6878, wempe.com

U-Bahn

Global Blue Refund Point

88 | G U I D E

Wilmersdorfer Strasse BAUHAUS ● K RUMME ST

ST R AS S E

● BIBA

Peek & Cloppenburg Kant-Center

SELECTED STORES IN KANT-CENTER: IDEE

VIN

NIEBUH RSTRA SSE

M O M MS EN

R SDOR

MIENTUS ●

SH AM

SY B E L S T R A S S E

ST RA

F ER ST R A S SE

DA HLMA NNSTR A SSE

W IL M E

A SSE

R GE

CL AU SW

WA I T Z S T R A S S E

KUR FÜ

R STEN

DAM

DA M M R A SS

D A H L M A N N S T R A S SE

RO SHER STR A SS

S TE N

FÜR

KUR

SYBELSTR .

ST RA SS E

KIDS ● CORNER

KA NT ST RA

● MEXX ● MEDIA MARKT ● TK MAXX

WA I T Z S T R A

SSE

A SSE

● WOOLWORTH

R A SSE

ASS

Karstadt

FER ST

STR

PE S TA L O Z Z I S T R A S S E

KRUM M E S T R

R SDOR

SSE HIED

● H&M

L EIB NIZ S T R

HESTR A

W IL M E

FRITSC DSC

R ER G OETHEST RASSE

ANNETTE HENTSCHEL BIBA BIJOU BRIGITTE BONG APOTHEKE BONITA CHRIST COLLOSEUM DEICHMANN DOUGLAS ECCO ESPRIT ETERNA FISCHER MODE FOOT LOCKER FOREVER 18 GABOR H&M INTERSPORT SPORTPOINT JACK & JONES JEANS FRITZ LASCANA MEDIMAX MUSTANG NEW YORKER NICOLAS SCHOLZ PROMOD PUMA RENO RUNNERS POINT S OLIVER SPIELE MAX TALLY WEIJL TAMARIS TOP TWO YVES ROCHER ZERO

WIN

IM A

● C&A

SELECTED STORES IN WILMERSDORFER ARKADEN:

D ROY ENS TRA

● FIELMANN

Wilmersdorfer Arkaden

LEI BN IZS TR AS SE

S CHIL L ER ST R A SSE

AS SE

I E D R I C H -S T R A S

ESTR A S MA

TR A SSE RA

S C H I L LE R S

IT ZS TR

KA IS ER - F R

FR ITS C H

R A SSE

● STRAUSS INNOVATION

SSE

BI S MA RC K

Global Blue Retailer Shopping Centre/Mall

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SHOP Recommendation

Department Store

SS E

S H O P | 89

Bleibtreustrasse PaPer & Tea TR A SSE

S C H L Ü T E R STR

KNESEBE CK STR AS

ASS E

SCHILLER S

A SSE

KN ESE BEC E SS

MA NS

IST R A SSE

KS TR AS SE

P E S TA L O Z Z

GOE TH E ST R

GOE T HE ST R A SSE

PAPER & TEA ●

ST RA SS E

ST RA SSE

AS SE

BL EI BT R EU

M O MMS ENST R ASS

TATEM ● MEYER NEHLS ●

SCHMUCK ● GALERIE LALIC

SALTO ●

ASS E

TREYKORN ●

NIE BU HR STR

● ANAMEL

SCH L ÜTE RST

SCHUH KONZEPT ●

KN E SEB ECK

RA SSE

KA NT ST RA SS

Paper & Tea is one of Berlin’s most unusual stores, specialising in fne and rare tea blends alongside a suitably stylish selection of related accessories. Its expert members of staf are on hand to guide visitors through the broad selection, using specially constructed tasting stations to explain and demonstrate the more unusual oferings. White, yellow, green, black and oolong varieties are all available, sold alongside a selection of ceramic teapots and cups and a range of luxury stationery – its notelets and cards are ideal for sending out invitations to afternoon tea. Paper & Tea, Bleibtreustrasse 4, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9561 5468, paperandtea.com

CHELSEA ● FARMERS CLUB DANIELS & KORFF ●

MOOSGRUND ● COLLECTION

YVA ●

KU R

FÜR

STEN

M D A M ● PATRICK HELLMANN

● SØR HERRENAUSSTATTER ● GIORGIA BOUTIQUE

DIE SEHMÄNNER ●

● BLEIBGRÜN ● KARIMA OUALI

RG LIETZENBU

globalblue.com

ER STR .

PHOTO: luDGeR PaffRaTH

● SØR WOMAN MIENTUS ●

90 | G U I D E

Schlossstrasse KARSTADT SPORTHAUS PIMKIE PRIMARK STRAUSS INNOVATION SPIELE MAX

Forum Steglitz

● WITTSTOCK SALAMANDER ● ● BONITA ● VILLEROY & BOCH THE BODY SHOP ● PETIT BATEAU ● ● NATURKAUFHAUS DOUGLAS ● ● EVELIN BRANDT ● FOOT LOCKER APOLLO-OPTIK ● ● BIBA FIELMANN ● BASLER ● FOTO ● LEISTENSCHNEIDER S OLIVER ●

RUNNERS POINT ● SCHUHHAUS WITTSTOCK ●

B ER GS T R

● DEICHMANN

10 HN BA

SUDENST RAS SE

TO AU ES ND BU

BIRKENSTOCK ● GLOBETROTTER ●

A SS E

ALTHOFFSTR .

Das Schloss

3 10 HN

AS TR

NE KÖ R

ND BU

● INTERSPORT OLYMPIA ● ULLA POPKEN

AS TR GS UR NB ER

C&A ●

OS HL

● SATURN

● YELLOW POINT ● WMF ● AKTIV SCHUH

LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ● SCHILDHORN APOTHEKE ● BIBA ●

ZIM

● REDGREEN

● TOSCANINI

Centre Steglitz

Peek & Cloppenburg

ORSAY ●

Karstadt

● HIRMER

MANGO ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ●

ESPRIT H&M HUNKEMÖLLER

AKTIV SCHUH APOLLO OPTIK ARA BIJOU BRIGITTE CHRIST COMMA DESIGUAL DOUGLAS ESPRIT GERRY WEBER G-STAR HALLHUBER H&M HOLLISTER HUNKEMÖLLER JETTE JOOP KARSTADT KARSTADT SPORTS KONPLOTT KULT LLOYD L’OCCITANE LUSH LTB MEXX NEW YORKER ONLY ORSAY PANDORA PILGRIM PROMOD RUNNERS POINT S OLIVER SIDESTEP TAMARIS TALLY WEIJL ZARA

SELECTED STORES IN FORUM STEGLITZ:

SELECTED STORES IN CENTRE STEGLITZ:

SCHLOSSPARK THEATRE

SELECTED STORES IN DAS SCHLOSS: ANSON’S BENETTON BONITA CHRIST COLLOSEUM CONRAD ELECTRONIC ESPRIT GABOR-CAMEL GAMESTOP GEOX GERRY WEBER GÖRTZ H&M MARC O’POLO MEDIA MARKT MEXX NEW YORKER ORSAY PIMKIE S OLIVER STREET ONE TOMMY HILFIGER

one of Berlin’s most popular eateries, Grosz is located in the spectacular Haus Cumberland on the city’s most prestigious boulevard. Heritage appeal, high ceilings and opulent styling have made it a popular flming location, while the menu celebrates classic cuisine with dishes such as Brussels chicken, lobster Bellevue and ham mousse in port jelly. The restaurant’s patisserie is particularly noteworthy; try the Princess Viktoria cake, a winning favour combination of white chocolate and pistachio.

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTO: MICHael BReyeR

Grosz

Grosz, Kurfürstendamm 193-194, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6521 42199, grosz-berlin.de * for map go to page 86 Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

OUTLETSHOPPING

IN WOLFSBURG and many more...

DESIGNEROUTLETS.COM An der Vorburg 1, 38440 Wolfsburg, Germany | across the Autostadt | next to the centralstation | +49 53 61.8 93 50-0 | Mon to Sat 10 am to 7 pm

92 | G U I D E

East Berlin JOHANNISSTRASSE

-S

HAR

. A SSE

A M W EID

N S TR

R EC SSE

R AS SE

TR .

N LI UNTER DE

BRANDENBURGER TOR

Westin Grand Hotel Hotel Adlon

EB ERTSR A SS E

NSTR HRE

R ASSE

G LIN K A S T

RAS

Soﬁtel

CONCERT HALL BERLIN GERMAN CATHEDRAL P.95

A SSE

KR ON EN ST

R AS SE

NH Hotel

RS TR AS

ZIM M ER ST

Place Of Interest Global Blue Refund Point

U-Bahn

EN ST R A SS

RAS

Hyat Hotel

MST

P.94

Hotel Berlin Marriot

HEL

P POTSDAMER PLATZ

STADTMITTE

. WIL

. A MER PL SD PL OT PR OT S DA M E

Berlin Hilton

C H A RL O TT

R ST

VO S S S T R

Hotel de Rome

Regent Hotel

MOHRENSTRASSE

Hotel Ritz Carlton

RAS

MST

M A R -S T R .

D - KO L

H EL

TRU

LEN

IST ERG ÄR TEN

LIN DE N NN DEDE LIN R

FRANZÖSISCHE STRASSE

M AU E

STR

S I S C H E ST

STR A SSE

AS SE

THE CORNER ●

WIL

T END GER

AH A

IN DE N MIN

BE HR EN S TR

A SSE

FR A N ZŌ

N HAN

N DETE UN TE RUN

N DE N

BRANDENBURG GATE

TR A SSE

TSTR . U N I V E R S I TÄ

MI TT EL ST

SCH EIDEM A N NSTR A SS E

Maritim pro Arte Hotel

A SS E

D O R OT H E E N

HSTR A S

EENST R

GEORGENS

SSE

R FE

ST R A

FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

NCK

AG ST

SC HA DO WS

D O R OT H

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FR I E D R IC

RA SS E

R A SSE

PAUL LÖBE ALLEE

GL IN KA ST

LU IS E N S T

BUNDESTAG

F HIF

H O L L-S T R

PLA

THE REICHSTAG BUILDING

R EST

E N DA M M

TR A

M A R IE

G E S C H W I S T E R-S C

ALB

R EIN

SSE STR A

-U

-S

YS T

ZIEGEL STRAS SE

UMA

LSK

SCH

SSE

K AP

RA NST

TUC

Train Station

Hotel

S H O P | 93

MÜ

STR

IEB

OR A NIEB U RG E R S T R .

NZST

R A SSE

NST R A SSE IRKE

Hotel Park Inn Berlin

RP DE

D P LE

EX E XA

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MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM

RUN G E S T

R A SSE

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CBKREÜ NCSKTE RNASST SREA S S

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SS TR AS SE

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MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM

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globalblue.com

ST TR RAAS S SE E

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HHE E I NI NR RI CI CH HHHE E I NI NE ES

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SPITTELMARKT

TR AS SE

T RA SSE

E NS

EI PZIGE R I G E R S T R .L

SSE

KLOSTERSTR.

T R A SS

SSE

ÜD

TR A

LL STR .

N I E D E RWA L L S T R

ZI MM ER STR

TR A

RED CITY HALL

NIKOLAI CHURCH

KUR S

O B E R WA

KR AU SE NS

DI NS

SEE SSS RAA R T ST

ENS

TZ LA

LIT

NIKOLAI QUARTER

U HA

JÜD

INK

LL STR .

H ER

TZ LA

T RA

H SC

O B E R WA

SC DER

A RTP ZL A TZ

TH RA

S US

-S HT

HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ

SC HÜ TZE NS

SAS Radisson Dom Aquaree

-LI ARL

THE WORLD TIME CLOCK

P.96

L EIPZ

ALEXANDERPLATZ

TELEVISION TOWER

BERLIN CATHEDRAL

WER

R A SSE

BURGST

MUSEUM ISLAND

S AS

LA TZ

HACKESCHER MARKT

94 | G U I D E

Alte Potsdamer Strasse

● SONY CENTER

P OT S DA M

ER PL .

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

EB ER

T AL

M DA

SELECTED SHOPS IN POTSDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN:

S T R A SSE

RAS K ST

LIN

1.2.3 TEXTILVERTRIEBS ADIDAS NEO AMPELMANN ANNA STERN APANAGE BIBA BIJOU BRIGITTE BONITA BREE CHARLOTTE CHRIST DEICHMANN

DOUGLAS EINBLICK OPTIK ESPRIT G-STAR GERRY WEBER GUESS H&M HERBAWI HUNKEMÖLLER KIKO MANDARINA DUCK MANGO MARC O’POLO MEXX NARA CAMICIE PALMERS LEJABY

KR ON EN ST

PROMOD PUMA

PZIGER ST L E IQUIKSILVER

R AS SE

R A SSE

TR A SSE

SSE

S T R A SSE

FR IE DR IC HS

RK EV

KINEMATHEK DEUTSCHE

O EP

VO S S ST R A

A SS E

MOHREN

R A SSE

EB ER TS R

GLINK A ST

MOHRENSTRASSE

S OLIVER SATURN STREET ONE SWAROVSKI SWATCH TALLY WEIJL THE BODY SHOP TOMMY HILFIGER VERO MODA WMF WOLFORD RS TR AS SE ZARA ZIM ME

LIQUIDROM ●

F95

Happy SHop

F95 stocks a range of international designer fashion by sought-after established labels and up-and-coming talents. Its diverse product selection is enhanced by its unusual displays; classic designerwear is shown alongside more avant-garde pieces, luxury accessories are arranged beside denim, and exquisite jewellery is found next to sportswear. Featured labels include By Malene Birger, Fratelli Rossetti, Diane von Furstenburg, Cruciani and Baldessarini. F95, Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6, 10963 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4208 3358, f95store.com

The fashion, design and contemporary art items on display at Happy Shop are sure to bring a smile to any visitor’s face. The range is eclectic, imaginative and sourced from across the world; visitors are as likely to fnd something from a South american market or Scandinavian workshop as from a parisian designer showroom. The fexible layout showcases every item in its best light. Expect to fnd pieces by yohji yamamoto, Miharayasuhiro and Smeilinener among the selection. Happy Shop, Torstrasse 67, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2900 9501, happyshop-berlin.com

Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H o p | 95

XXX Located in a loft room that can only be accessed by ringing the bell in a quiet Kreuzberg courtyard, Xxx is one of Berlin’s best-kept secrets. The boutique is well worth taking the time to seek out thanks to its collection of high-end avant-garde fashion pieces for both men and women. Brands on ofer range from Berlinbased designers such as Mads Dinesen and Butterfy Soulfre to intriguing international labels, including Thomas Balint, Moonspoon Saloon and anna Wiszniewska. The store also contains an apartment; watch out for designers and artists living and working in the space while you shop.

Xxx, Skalitzer Strasse 33, 10999 Berlin, xxx-berlin.com

Unter Den Linden, Friedrichstrasse & Französische Strasse

SS TA U B E N S T R A

WMF ●

R A SSE

R AS SE

R A SSE

● MARC CAIN

TR A SSE

MARC CAIN ●

Train Station

KR ON EN ST

GEOX ●

LEIPZIG ER ST

J ÄG E R S T R A

SSE

HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ

● FRANKONIA ASS E ● STEFANEL MO H REN STR ● MEISSEN FASSBENDER ● & RAUSCH P.98 Hilton Hotel

FR IE DR IC HS

A SSE RENST R

KR ON EN ST

SCHE STR .

Q110 DIE DEUTSCHE BANK DER ZUKUNFT ● THOMAS SABO ● MOH

SSE

F R A N ZÖ SI

Gendarmen Markt Quartier 205, 206, 207

ESCADA ● BUCHERER ●

LL STR A

J ÄG E R S T R .

O B ER WA

MEISSEN GALERIE ● CHARLOTTENSTRASSE ● THE CORNER

● MONTBLANC NAVYBOOT ● ● TANDEM ● LE TANNEUR SANDRO ● Galeries Lafayete NESPRESSO ●

GLINK A ST

Department Store

A SSE

TE NS T R. MA R KG RA

TR . BRILLE 4 ●

TR .

BEH R ENS T R

● JACK WOLFSKIN P.48 HUGO BOSS ● ROECKL ● ● WEMPE EMPORIO ARMANI ●

FRANZÖSISCHE STR.

BALLY BOTTEGA VENETA DA VINCI DEPARTMENTSTORE QUARTIER 206 ETRO GANT PATRICK HELLMANN LOUIS VUITTON MAX & CO MCS MOSCHINO NAPAPIJRI STRENESSE WOLFORD

Bebel Platz

TZ BE B EP LA

AS SE

HEL

GL INK AS TR

IITALLA ● LACOSTE ● KPM ●

SELECTED STORES IN QUARTIER 205, 206, 207:

O B E R WA L L S

TR .

WIL

TR A SSE

N LI ND EN ● MEISSEN ● COS ● H&M MAN ● MASSIMO DUTTI

BRANDENBURGER TOR

BEHR ENS

● DOUGLAS ● ZARA ● MARC O’POLO ● ESPRIT

NIVEA HAUS ●

U NT ER DE

TSSTR . U N I V E R S I TA

RA SS E

DUSSMANN ● STORE ● AKTIV SCHUH

EN ST R .

MI TT EL ST

SHOE CITY ●

CH AR LO TT

HU HE ● AK TIV SC S ● ST RA US

NSTR A S

SC HA DO WS

EE DO RO T H

STADTMITTE

U-Bahn

RA S SE

MEISSENER PORZELLAN ● AM GENDARMEN MARKT

L EIPZIGER S

Hotel

TR A SSE

96 | G U I D E

Alexanderplatz, Brückenstrasse, Neue Schönhauser Strasse & Rosenthaler Strasse MB

RA ST EL

Galeria KauÄof

Alexa Center

DI RC E

DER

A SS

ST R

RC KS

TR AS

AM ND

SSE

EI RA

ÜH

BR SS

A SS

ENS

A IR O LT

STR A S

STR

JÜD

TZ LA

LEVI’S MEDIA MARKT MEXX APRIORI PALMERS LEJABY BETTY BARCLAY PICARD BIBA PILGRIM BIJOU BRIGITTE ROLAND-SCHUHE KLOSTERSTR. CAMEL RUNNERS POINT CHRIST S OLIVER COLLOSEUM SIDE STEP COMMA STREET ONE DEICHMANN TALLY WEIJL DOUGLAS P.47 TAMARIS EDC THE BODY SHOP ESPRIT TOMMY HILFIGER ETERNA TRIUMPH FOSSIL VERO MODA G-STAR WE GERRY WEBER WMF R E F U R D O N L A H&M YVES ROCHER JACK WOLFSKIN ZARA JUWELIER CLASSIC ZERO KOOKAÏ TEN

DE AN

S US

S AS

LIT

T SS

HL BR

I ED

SATURN ●

TZ LA

TH RA

SC FR

● C&A

ALEXANDERPLATZ

AMPELMANN GRETCHEN JOST OAKLEY O-STORE PEAK PERFORMANCE PROFUMO STEFANEL STONES TOMMY HILFIGER TRIPPEN

A TH RA

SELECTED STORES IN HACKISCHE HÖFE:

SELECTED SHOPS IN ALEXA CENTER:

S ICH

-B

AUSBERLIN ●

● MYKITA CK

EB DI R

TR AS

-K A

NZS

ISA

S CH

S AS

H -S

AR ST R IN LIE RL E BE JUW ●

-L NA

TA D S

NEUES MUSEUM C RS

TR.

SEN

HACKESCHER MARKT P.98

● ADIDAS ● AMERIC AN APPARE L ● GAS ● DIESEL ● COS ● MISS SIXTY

● 14OZ

O R A N I E B U R G E R ST

● RESPEC TMEN

● BUFFAL O

Hackische Höfe

● CAMPE R

MICHAEL KORS ●

A SS

A L MS

STR

IEN

STR

THA

AD G 0 ● DEERTZ H FL A P.5 H UH E ● REBECCA P.46 C S T S D R ● SOTO STORE E E L T A O ● S T G S Y FE T FI UB Y S H UE N E R R G E R / B P L A E A N N O U ● R P E A 1 7 N E J R BA ● FRIETIG LAB. S T D L L Z O R / R P E● U ● ENERGIE ● F R E A R R T Y K AV I P E Ö ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● ● K G D R M ● T R . P.46 ● CONVERSE S ● ● ● R NEU E ● HUGO BOSS E S C H Ö H AUS N ● STRELLSON SPORTSWEAR MÜ ● ULF HAINES

LER

P.52

GESTALTEN ● SPACE

S T R A L A U R ST R .

ÜD ER

ST R

MÄ

SSE

RU N GEST R A SSE

RGA

MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM

SSE

BERLIN STAR BEAUTY ● BERLIN STAR TAX FREE SHOP ●

WA SE

TR A

EN S

HE ISC

BRÜ CK

R. M

K ÄR

H IS C

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

U-Bahn

Train Station

Place Of Interest

to put a price on. we have created the Deep Blue Programme in partnership with the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, to preserve ocean environments in the Maldives and the Cook islands, home to some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most endangered marine species. To ďŹ nd out more visit globalblue.com/oceans

98 | G U I D E

My Berlin: Peter O Mahler Avant-garde German fashion designer Peter O Mahler has just celebrated his 20th year in the business with the launch of his frst fragrance, together with an anniversary clothing collection due out in 2014. Mahler opened his frst store in 1997 in his native Düsseldorf, before making the German capital his home a few years later. Here he talks all things Berlin with Josh Sims

‘I was born in Düsseldorf, and worked there until 2000. I always lived very close to the Rhine and I like the new area around the harbour. When it comes to fashion Düsseldorf has always been and is still quite important. Our headquarters, and one of our shops, is located between the old town and Königsallee – and I always appreciate coming back to it. ‘Since the turn of the millennium Berlin has become the centre of my creative work. My atelier is now located in Berlin-Mitte, probably one of the most intriguing and constantly changing places in the world. Berlin is a city with a thousand faces. We have one shop in Scheunenviertel, a young

and inspiring part of Mitte; the other is in the reborn western part of the city very close to the fancy part of the Ku’damm, which has a totally diferent atmosphere. This is what I like about Berlin: it’s many cities in one. ‘In Berlin, I really like KaDeWe * p.87, especially the food department with its enormous selection. Fassbender & Rausch * p.95 is great for its excellent chocolate. And Objets Trouvés is a fantastic shop which stocks original furniture from all over Europe. ‘My favourite restaurant would be Entrecôte for its excellent fresh food, cosy atmosphere and friendly French-speaking staf; it feels like coming home. La Soupe Populaire in Mitte is good, too, especially for its location and its bar. The food at Hartmanns in Kreuzberg is also great. And I really like Monsieur Voung for tasty Vietnamese dishes – it’s relaxed, but always very crowded and atmospheric. ‘Zeit für Brot is my favourite local café. It has lots of organic bakery stuf and is typical of Berlin. It was one of last year’s stars of the Mitte scene. ‘I always take out-of-town friends on a boat trip on the Spree, to give them a

Above (clockwise from lef): Hartmanns; porcelain at kaDeWe; Zeit für Brot café

PHOTO (TOP lEFT): kAREl kUEHNE

PHOTO: F BOlk

peteromahler.com

G U I D E | 99

good overall impression of the city and its famous cultural places on Museumsinsel and of the government buildings, including the Reichstag. ‘For special occasions I tend to go to the restaurant of China Club Berlin. It has truly breathtaking views over Berlin, good food and feels luxurious. I’ve just started going to Pauly Saal in the Mädchenschule; it’s new, fancy and already an institution with the locals. ‘I enjoy walking around Scheunenviertel with its galleries and small individual shops. My favourite view in the city is of Strasse des 17 Juni, looking towards the Brandenburger Tor, from the Siegessäule. It’s one of the great boulevards of Berlin, connecting the west and east of the city. ‘August II, one of the new bars in Mitte, is glamorous yet laidback. Zoo Palast * p.87, which was an important venue of the Berlinale flm festival, reopened recently after renovation. It blends the old glamour of the movies with the newest technology. And it has the most comfortable seating I’ve ever experienced in a cinema … ‘The Museumsinsel and particularly the Neues Museum * p.96 are, in

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my opinion, the best local landmarks. David Chipperfeld’s architecture is very impressive. The museum’s most famous item is the bust of Nefertiti, displayed in a special room decorated like an ancient Egyptian temple. ‘I prefer the Hamburger Bahnhof for its modern and contemporary art, which includes the important Friedrich Christian Flick collection. My insider tip? Try to see it on one of the ‘long night’ events. On these special evenings the museums and galleries stay open until midnight and there are special shuttle buses to take you from place to place.’

100 | G U I D E

Designer Outlet Berlin

HoW To GET THErE By car From Berlin: follow Heerstrasse on the B5 to Spandau, continue until you see the junction signposted Designer outlet Berlin.

By train and bus

Designer Outlet Berlin, Alter Spanduer Weg 1, 14641 Wustermarkt, +49 (0)33 234 9040, designeroutletberlin.de Opening times Monday-Thursday: 10am-7pm Friday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

PErFEcT DAy

10am Pick up a lightweight yet durable bag from travel specialist Samsonite.

From Berlin: Train rE4 towards rathenow. Alight at Elstal. In front of the station take bus 662 towards Wustermarkt/ Falkenrehde: get of at main entrance of Designer outlet Berlin. From Potsdam: train rB21 towards Wustermark. Alight at Priort. In front of the station take bus 662 towards Bahnhof Elstal; get of at main entrance of Designer outlet Berlin.

By taxi 1pm

11am

Seafood fans should be sure to lunch at Nordsee; donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss its delicious crispy pollack and chips.

Stop at Rituals, where the indulgent products on ofer range from luxury body creams to mineral make-up.

3pm

5pm

Noa Noa echoes the Nordic sense of style with simple, feminine designs in natural materials.

round of your day at Liebeskind Berlin, a popular footwear and accessory label.

globalblue.com

From Berlin city centre: approximately 40 minutes. From Potsdam city centre: approximately 20 minutes.

If you’d like to pay in your home currency, we’d like to say...

With Currency Choice you can choose to pay in the currency of the country in which your credit card was issued, so you can see exactly what you’re spending when you shop abroad. And, as the rate of exchange is fxed at the time of purchase, there’ll be no nasty surprises when you get your bank statement. The world’s best shopping, beter. www.globalblue.com

102 | G U I D E

Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when on the go 2

1. Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH Am Karlsbad 11, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 250025, visitberlin.de 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000 3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets go to bvg.de or scan the QR code 4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information 5. Taxi To fnd a local taxi, call +49 (0)30 443322, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de 6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com

EMERGENCY SERVICES Emergency: 112 (ambulance and fre); 110 (police) Doctor: +49 (0)116117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 (0)116116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards)

INSIDER TIP For shorter taxi rides, use the ‘hailing fare’ – available only when hailing a passing taxi. A short journey then costs just €4. Tell the taxi driver at the start of the ride that you would like this fare.

USEFUL PHRASES Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte I would like... ∙ Ich möchte... Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...? Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben? PHOTO: NORBeRT AePli

DID YOU KNOW? Potsdamer Platz was the frst place in Europe to have a set of trafc lights.

Above: Replica of the trafc tower of 1924 on Berlin’s Potsdamer Platz

S H O P | 103

Berlin Tegel Airport After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Berlin Tegel airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts, souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase. In addition, Berlin Tegel airport has a number of places in which to eat and drink.

Lemm Before taking of on a business trip, be sure to check out the luxurious leather accessories available at Lemm. Its high-quality collections feature items by some of the world’s most prestigious brands, including Porsche Design, Tumi and Bric’s. Expect to fnd briefcases, backpacks, suitcases and smaller leather accessories among the well-edited range.

Cofee Fellows Refuel before heading to the departure lounge at popular German café Cofee Fellows. The company prides itself on making customers feel at home and specialises in highquality cofee and fresh bagels – ideal for those on the go.

globalblue.com

Esprit Stocking the ideal clothing collection for long-haul travelling, Esprit specialises in efortlessly casual pieces infused with Californian sunshine. The range is flled with highquality items which are made to last, featuring laid-back tailoring and handcrafted details that will take you from Berlin to Bali and beyond in style.

104 | G U I D E

Eat, See, Do If you have only a short time to spend in Berlin, the city’s tourist board has picked its top three places to visit around the city Eat

Berlin Tourist Board is the ofcial visitor marketing organisation for the city of Berlin and frst port of call for both business and leisure travellers from all over the world. Berlin Tourist Info, Pariser Platz, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 250025, visitberlin.com

PHOTO: dieTer duvelmeyer

The recently opened La Soupe Populaire in the old Bötzow Brauerei is star cook Tim Raue’s third restaurant and a new hotspot on Berlin’s dining scene. La Soupe Populaire, Prenzlauer Allee 242, 10405 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4431 9680, lasoupepopulaire.de

PHOTO: Jens PeTer randT

Do Enjoy Berlin’s creative side with a stroll through the city’s new gallery area around Potsdamer Strasse. Potsdamer Strasse, 10785 Berlin

A magnifcent work of art in itself, Berlin’s Museumsinsel (‘museum island’) plays host to fve world-renowned museums. It was also declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1999. Museumsinsel, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2090 5577, smb.museum

Above (Do): Galerie Gilla lörcher

PHOTO: GünTer sTeffen

See

DAS TOURISTENTICKET

freie Fahrt, rund um die Uhr 200 Rabattangebote Stadtplan + guide ab

18,50 €

Erhältlich in den Berlin Tourist Infos, bei BVG + S-Bahn, in vielen Hotels und online

berlin-welcomecard.de

106

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process. 1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 113 / 116

116 / 117

107

Refund Locations

Berlin SchÖnefeld Airport

Terminal A, Departure level, close to airline counters

Berlin Tegel Airport

Terminal A, cash refund inside the Service Centre

2 1

Key

Refund location details: Customs stamp

Global Blue customer services

At all airport refund locations, go to customs before check-in

Landside

Tax Free mailbox

Terminal A, Departures, landside, second foor, to the right of the café-bar

Check-in area

Airside

Terminal A, Service Centre; customs is next to the Global Blue ofce

Security control

Stairs

KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24

Berlin Schönefeld Airport Berlin Tegel Airport Downtown Berlin: Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (customer service centre, 5th foor)

Information

Dresden Airport: Terminal B, opposite customs in the airport service area Leipzig Airport/Halle: Central Terminal, Lufhansa ticket/information counter in check-in area; customs is opposite the refund point

globalblue.com

108

Translations Русский ПеРевод 56: Street Cred

свой среди своих

«Мода - это не только одежда. Мода повсюду: она в воздухе, на улице, в наших мыслях. Мода - это способ жизни. Это то, что происходит прямо сейчас», - так говорила Коко Шанель. Конечно, сложно представить жемчуга и твид-букле Chanel в смелых образах, которые во множестве встречаются на улицах Берлина. И все же кое-что из ее взглядов на стиль соответствует духу немецкой столицы. Ведь именно с этого города начала свое победное шествие современная мода - авангардная, яркая, необычная. Стрит-стайл стал неотъемлемой частью модной идентичности Берлина, вы встретите его повсюду - от извилистых улочек Митте до тенистых бульваров Шенеберга. И если в Париже или Милане можно представить образ, составленный из вещей от одного дизайнера, то здесь такое просто невозможно, учитывая манеру берлинцев подбирать разнообразные образы. Авангардные джинсовые бренды, стильные магазины «для своих», влияние спортивного стиля, уличные веяния и бунтарский дух – вот что определяет лицо Берлина. «В Париже есть prêt-à-porter и haute couture. Милан ассоциируется с официальным гардеробом и вечерней одеждой Prada, Gucci и других модных домов. В Лондоне люди склонны к неофициальной модной культуре. А с Берлином связаны именно бренды стритстайла», - делится наблюдениями модный гуру столицы êарл-àайнц Мюллер. Он globalblue.com

PHOTO: UGUR ORHANOGLU

Чарли Найдпат рассказывает об уличной моде Берлина, известной свой смелостью, оригинальностью и новаторством

проводит популярную ярмарку Bread & Butter дважды в год, а также руководит концепт-стором 14oz. В его словах ничего парадоксального. Все прочие сегменты модного рынка были уже заняты, а берлинским творческим личностям хотелось развиваться в собственной нише. Так современный городской стиль стал символом этого города. Более того, можно утверждать, что текстиль и спортивная одежда всегда успешно развивались здесь, поэтому вполне естественно, что они и стали ключевым элементом стиля горожан. Аккуратные офисы Bread & Butter расположились прямо над магазином Adidas, и это весьма символично. По словам Мюллера, уникальность Берлина предопределила не только история, но и географическое положение. Соединив восток и запад, он стал перекрестком европейских культур. «Дизайнерам всегда нравился этот город, а после падения стены он полюбился им больше, чем когда-либо. Берлин стал средоточием энергии, идей и экспериментов», - делится он. Склонность

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к экспериментам, действительно, проявляется не только в манере одеваться. В многочисленных авангардных магазинах высокая мода спокойно уживается со спортивным и уличным стилем. Здесь нет предубеждения против сочетания любимых кроссовок Nike с одеждой Hermès. êонцепт-сторы Берлина стали носителями этого своеобразного стиля. 14oz (именно такая плотность у идеальной джинсовой ткани) стал образцом для них, буквально храмом актуальной моды: теперь у него уже два аутлета и собственный магазин в районе Митте. êомпания завоевала популярность, органично объединив в ассортименте молодые бренды, известные модные дома и деним (а это ключевой элемент стрит-стайла). êуртки Canada Goose здесь представлены наряду с итальянской маркой головных уборов Borsalino, а джинсы G-Star – с шарфами дизайнера с Савил Роу Drake. Магазин Darklands, расположенный неподалеку от Тиергартена, также вносит свою лепту в продвижение экспериментальной моды. Все

представленные здесь вещи раздвигают границы привычного, будь то бренды Boris Bidjan Saberi и Rick Owens или кожаные аксессуары Carol Christian Poell. Бутик Voo в êройцберге предлагает куртки Carin Wester с животными принтами, свитера Kenzo и кроссовки Nike из ограниченной серии – словом, каждый найдет здесь чтонибудь по душе. êреативный директор àерберт àофманн утверждает: «êонцепция Voo связана с определенным образом жизни. Мы любим моду, музыку, искусство и качественные вещи». Не только концепт-сторы мастерски соединяют роскошь и стрит-стайл. Галереи, склады восточного Берлина и берлинские недели моды посещает столь же яркая молодежь, стиль которой достоин объективов модных фотографов. В городе, который переживал невероятно драматические моменты, едва ли можно было ожидать от моды иного, чем подобный нонконформизм. Уверены, это произвело бы впечатление даже на êоко Шанель. breadandbutter.com, 14oz-berlin.com, darklandsberlin.com, vooberlin.com

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62: Putting Others In The Shade

Тень вокруг

Авангардные бренды Германии создают солнцезащитные очки из дерева, а также в винтажном и роскошном спортивном стиле. Салли МакИлхон рассказывает о самых интересных дизайнерских решениях

Было бы логично предположить, что самые модные солнцезащитные очки должны появляться там, где круглый год жарко. И это автоматически исключает Берлин из числа претендентов. Однако в последнее время именно в столице Германии стали разрабатываться весьма смелые дизайнерские решения для этих летних аксессуаров. Ретро-роскошь 80-х, использование вручную обработанного дерева, отсутствие винтиков на дужках – именно так актуальные и авангардные берлинские бренды помогают модникам поддерживать стиль круглый год. Слава о марке Mykita стремительно распространяется по миру: сейчас ее продукцию можно купить в семи собственных бутиках и 70 мультибрендовых globalblue.com

магазинах. При этом ее креативное бюро базируется в Берлине. Мориц Крюгер, исполнительный и креативный директор компании, объясняет, что команде Mykita жизненно необходимо оставаться в Берлине для продуктивного творчества: «В нашем Mykita Haus у нас есть все необходимые подразделения, а совместная деятельность дает нужный синергетический эффект и возможность реагировать очень быстро», утверждает она. Этот подход уже доказал свою эффективность. Не так давно марка представила коллекцию стильных спортивных очков из полиамида Mykita Mylon. «Едва ли в нашей сфере у этого материала есть равные конкуренты. Он легкий, податливый, прочный и гибкий, - делится Мориц. – Мы старались передать особое ощущение оригинального материала, и результатом стала новая эстетика очков. Эта коллекция уже завоевала профессиональные награды International Forum Design Award и Red Dot Design Award». Бренд Kuboraum, основанный в феврале 2012, также специализируется на солнцезащитных очках, которые здесь называют «масками». Эта стильная идея принесла компании популярность и помогла открыть флагманский магазин в Берлине, а также собственный отдел в престижном торговом центре Токио Isetan. Серхио Эусеби, директор по брендингу, коммуникациям и маркетингу Kuboraum, объясняет особенную философию марки так: «Наша маска – необычный, чужеродный элемент. Она обладает энергией, выходящей за пределы ее прямого предназначения, - объясняет он. – Мы нашли подходящее объяснение тому, что мы делаем: это не очки, а маски». Поклонникам винтажа придется по душе старомодное очарование аксессуаров марки Cazal: обратите на них внимание в берлинском бутике Eye Couture. Своим названием компания, основанная в 1975 году, обязана дизайнеру Кари Заллони. Его выдающиеся разработки стали культовыми, а многие модели воспринимаются как

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символ статуса представителями хип-хоп культуры Нью-Йорка. Исполнительный директор Беате Оберштайнер отмечает: «Его дизайнерские решения были настольно неповторимыми и инновационными, что узнать оправу Cazal всегда можно было издалека. Наши очки украшают лица, а не скрывают их». Недавно компания вновь презентовала классические модели в серии Cazal Legends и подтвердила планы по развитию этого направления в 2014 году: «Бренд разрабатывает женскую коллекцию в стиле 1980-х, переосмысленном в соответствии с современными запросами». Если вы предпочитаете аксессуары, созданные на заказ, мы рекомендуем деревянные очки Herrlicht, которые можно найти в магазине Brillenschneiderei. Этот бренд появился десять лет назад, благодаря увлечению ее создателя Андреаса Лихта деревянной мебелью. «Я люблю этот материал и всегда хотел сделать из него то, что еще никто не делал до меня», - делится Лихт. На создание одной оправы уходит от 10 до 15 часов кропотливой работы, причем мастер берет в работу только деревья, произрастающие в Германии. В итоге очки Herrlicht превращаются в настоящее произведение искусства. «Наши очки – совсем не массовый продукт. Каждый предмет единственный в своем роде. И сам материал привлекает людей: он теплый, светлый, красивый. Некоторые из наших заказчиков интересуются ими только благодаря их искусности», - утверждает Лихт. Если вам больше по душе сочетание функциональности и стиля, обратите внимание на Ic Berlin, который специализируется на моделях без винтов и шарниров. «Источником вдохновения послужили военные автомобили. Так появилась идея создать простые дужки без винтиков», - делится основатель бренда Ральф Андерл. Такая сосредоточенность на функциональности привела к тому, что теперь солнцезащитные очки этой марки продаются по всему миру. «Удобные и полезные аксессуары служат дольше, чем просто модные, - комментирует основатель. – С другой стороны, очки должны хорошо

смотреться на лице покупателя. Поэтому мы заботимся и о стиле, и о технологичности». Приобрести темную пару от Ic Berlin лучше всего в фирменном берлинском магазине, обставленном удобными кожаными диванами и кассовыми автоматами с громкоговорителями. «Когда мы только начинали Ic Berlin, индустрии очков в Берлине просто не было, - продолжает Андерл. – Прямо сейчас примеру нашей компании последовало сразу несколько брендов. Берлин, да и вся Германия, постепенно возвращаются в оптическую сферу. И я жду с нетерпением, когда на носах мужчин и женщин по всему миру будут мелькать очки, сделанные в Германии». С таким активным развитием рынка, какой происходит сейчас, ждать осталось недолго. mykita.com, kuboraum.com, cazal-eyewear.com, herrlicht.de, ic-berlin.de

70: The Rest Is History

Внутри истории

Помимо ультра-современных бутиков, баров и ресторанов, в Берлине сохранились и старинные заведения. Стивен Дойг рассказывает о самых впечатляющих из них История Берлина неподражаема: едва ли в мире найдется еще один город, который мог бы похвастаться столь драматичным прошлым. Градостроительные проекты и режимы, разделения на части и объединение – этот город, кажется, всегда в движении. Отголоски былых эпох можно обнаружить буквально всюду – от Бранденбургских ворот до Музейного острова. Постоянное присутствие прошлого

PHOTO: THE KOBAL COLLECTION/ABC/ALLIED ARTISTS

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сыграло значительную роль в зарождении особенного видения дизайна и моды. Стиль нового времени успешно транслируют берлинские актуальные бутики, рестораны, галереи, бары и отели. Однако среди всего этого многообразия сохранились заведения, увековеченные в произведениях писателя Кристофера Ишервуда, а также еще старинные места, достойные внимания современного путешественника. Пожалуй, лучше всего начать прогулку с тенистой улицы Nollendorfstrasse в районе Шенеберг. Именно здесь в начале 20 века Ишервуд делил квартиру с моделью и певицей Джин äосс. Позже она стала прообразом Салли Боулс в книге «Прощай, Берлин!», а в экранизации, которую зрители знают под названием «Кабаре», ее сыграла Лайза Миннелли. В Веймарской республике писатель вел наполненную удовольствиями жизнь. Тем интереснее побывать в местах, которые он описывал столь выразительно: «Торжественные, широкие улицы. Над магазинами в цокольных этажах нависают тени от массивных балконов, поэтому лампы здесь не гасят даже днем». Буквально в паре шагов располагался клуб Eldorado, который также фигурирует в книге. На его сцене выступала еще одна известная жительница Шенеберга - Марлен globalblue.com

Дитрих. Теперь помещение занимает небольшой супермаркет, но прямо на входе красуется вывеска с прежним названием, а интерьер украшен атмосферными чернобелыми фотографиями клуба. Бары, кофейни и магазины, в которых бывал Ишервуд, наверняка уже закрылись. Но декадентскую атмосферу 1920-х прекрасно передают местные заведения, в частности – бак Stagger Lee. Может быть, лучше всего дух старого города сохранился в тихих улочках между Александрплац и Музейным островом в районе Nikolaiviertel. Здесь вы найдете уютный паб Zum Nussbaum, история которого насчитывает сотни лет. Закажите пиво и немецкие сосиски, вслушайтесь в истории старого Берлина и разглядывайте на стенах карикатуры 19 века, нарисованные завсегдатаем Генрихом Цилле. Следующая остановка нашего путешествия роскошный данс-холл Clärchens Ballhaus, которому уже 100 лет. Его мерцающие люстры, расписные стены, живая музыка – все располагает к тому, чтобы ненадолго потеряться во времени. Историческая берлинская мануфактура KPM (Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur) специализируется на переосмыслении истории в самом роскошном ключе. Первые

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фарфоровые образцы произвели здесь в 1793 году по указу Фредерика Великого. Но и в наши дни классическая сдержанность стиля этой марки проявляется в предметах домашнего обихода, созданных исключительно вручную: так, элегантные обеденные наборы перламутрового оттенка украшены золотыми листьями и расписными цветочными мотивами. Необычный опыт шоппинга предлагают Hackesche Höfe - восемь соединенных друг с другом торговых дворов. В 1990-е годы они были тщательно отреставрированы и превратились в своеобразный культурный центр. Здесь продают домашнее мыло, работает стильная книжная лавка, открыт старомодный ювелирный бутик. Обязательно побродите по мощеной галерее, как это делала Салли Боулз, выбирая новый сценический костюм. Поклонникам винтажа просто необходимо побывать на блошином рынке Antikmarkt am Ostbahnhof, который работает по воскресеньям. Вот уж где продаются истинные сокровища старины от граммофонов и духовых инструментов до роскошных платьев 1920-х годов. Пускай безудержная ночная жизнь Веймарской республики, которую так живописно описывал Ишервуд, осталась в прошлом. Но у нас есть шанс сполна вкусить все ее прелести, примеряя на себя особенный стиль той эпохи. staggerlee.de, ballhaus.de, kpm-berlin.com, hackesche-hoefe.com 106: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными. 美文翻译

56: Street Cred 名扬街头柏林渐渐以它粗矿、不羁和创意时尚的名声而为世人知晓，Charlie Neidpath做出诠释可可香奈儿曾说过这样一句的名言： “时尚不仅仅存在于女士服装中，更弥漫在空气里，时尚乘风而来，我们感受它，呼吸着它，它远在天际，又近在街头，时尚无处不在，它源自创意构想、生活方式甚至某些特定事件”。或许在柏林的大马路上穿戴香奈儿的珍珠和波维粗花呢会稍显别扭，但细细品味却不失恰当。因为正是它的创意、抢眼和独树一帜的时尚精神在柏林的街头巷尾蔓延。从蜿蜒的城中区 M i t t e 到林荫大道 Schöneberg，街头穿着必然是柏林的时尚风向标。当巴黎和米兰人惯常地展示自己的名牌行头时，柏林人的穿着纯粹因人而异。手工牛仔品牌，隐秘的小众店铺，当地的运动风结合街头风尚和一股凌烈的叛逆精神，塑造出这个城市独一无二的性格。时尚大师Karl-Heinz Müller既是一年两度服装贸易展Bread & Butter的筹备者，更是先锋牛仔概念店14oz的店主——店名来源于传说中最完美牛仔裤的重量。他说： “巴黎有成衣和高定，米兰的代表是黑色领带和Prada、Gucci等大牌晚装，伦敦有

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地下设计师，而柏林让人直接联系到街头品牌”。不难理解柏林的创意巧手们把时尚产业的方方面面都补得“天衣无缝” ，这也是为什么街头风和酷酷的嘻哈风成为这个城市的标志。再加上布料和运动产品一直是柏林产业的龙头，这些元素渗透到人们的穿着上就是顺理成章的事了。无巧不成书，Bread & Butter贸易展楼下就有一家Adidas店。对Müller 来说，柏林的特别之处并不仅仅是历史，而是它处在欧洲文化的交汇中心，是通向西方的大门，他这样评价柏林： “艺术家们一直以来都在这里安家，但在柏林墙倒塌了以后，柏林更成了活力、创意和革新的熔炉。”实验主义在柏林处处可见，不仅体现在当地人光鲜的穿着上，并且那些先锋店铺将高端时尚和运动街头风混合——在这里，用耐克混搭爱马仕是一件很稀松平常的事。这种对于时尚的态度遍布柏林的概念店，比如说14oz 的两个分店中的Mitte 老店，人人都记得它酷酷的砖墙，如今它已经融合了新人设计师、手工牛仔（街头风的核心）、经典牌子和进口品牌：加拿大的Canada Goose 外套、意大利老牌Borsalino 的帽子，G -Star的牛仔还有伦敦Savile Row剪裁师 Drake’s的围巾。

的时尚业如此离经叛道也不足为奇，想必可可香奈儿也会对其另眼相看。 breadandbutter.com, 14oz-berlin.com, darklandsberlin.com, vooberlin.com

62: Putting Others In The Shade 供人乘凉

PHOTO: Onin LOrenTe

归功于重生的复古风格，定制木质工艺与功能性运动奢华风，德国太阳镜产业正以前所未有的速度蓬勃发展。Sally McIlhone为您介绍其中值得关注的品牌

Tiergarten的Darklands的内饰充满钢筋混凝土，却是另一处实验派时尚的宝藏。从Boris Bidjan Saberi、Rick Owens到Carol Christian Poell故意做旧的皮革配饰，边缘时尚元素被诠释到了极致。不远处的Kreuzberg，Voo店里，Carin Wester动物尾巴印花羽绒服、Kenzo的毛衣和限量版大理石纹路 Nike运动鞋能满足各种顾客的品味需求。设计总监 Herbert Hofmann说道： “Voo追随的是一种生活方式。我们热爱时尚、音乐和精湛的手工艺。” 逛概念店之余，东柏林还有成群的画廊和艺术工厂。柏林时装周上那些年轻的衣着光鲜的潮人们继续融合奢华范与街头风。这个城市饱经风雨，它 globalblue.com

人们或许会期望当代太阳镜设计的新中心会在一个阳光普照的地方——然而柏林从不是这样一座符合刻板印象的城市。这座耐人寻味的德国首都，最近成为先锋墨镜设计师们的聚集地，拥有制造80年代香奈儿复古风格、或是手工木刻、完全不用螺丝固定的款式的品牌。从超摩登主义到先锋派，这些柏林品牌帮助时尚弄潮儿们，在一年四季都酷感十足。 Mykita正跃身成为国际知名的墨镜品牌。虽然总部与创意工作室都位于柏林，品牌已经在全球拥有 7家旗舰店，并在70 多家店铺中进行销售。CEO 兼创意总监 Moritz Krueger 解释道，让 Mykita的创意团队聚集在柏林的新潮工作室中对品牌理念至关重要。 “我们的Mykita Haus集合了所有部门，确保最佳协同合作与快速反应。”她说道。 Mykita以柏林为中心的运作机制被证实异常高效。品牌最近推出了Mykita Mylon系列，一系列使用聚酰胺制成的高端运动太阳镜。 “在眼镜领域这一材料是无可比拟的——它轻便、可调节、耐久并且高度柔韧， ”Moritz表示。 “它同样非常具有美感，我们试图让人们触摸并感知这种新的原始材料。这个系列帮助我们赢得了国际设计论坛奖与红点设计大奖。” 另一个城中太阳镜的指向性品牌是 Kuboraum。这个创建于2012年二月的非季节性品牌，将产品描述成“面具”而非墨镜，这个先锋理念帮助其在柏林开设了旗舰店，并在东京尊贵的伊势丹百货开设了店中店。Kuboraum的品牌、传播与市场总监Sergio Eusebi 透露了品牌的独特哲学。 “面具是一种非同寻常的无机物件；其拥有超过实际功能的力量， ”Eusebi 解释“我们找到了定义自己作品的新方法。不是眼镜，而是面具。” 复古爱好者们会陶醉在Cazal 的独特魅力中，可以在柏林的Eye Couture店铺中见到这个品牌。品牌的历史可以追溯到1975年，名字来自其主设计师，已故的Cari Zalloni。 Zalloni引人注目的设计已成为潮流圣品，其中的许多都被作为地位的象征，见诸于纽约的嘻哈乐表演现场。正如 Cazal 的

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独特，想法是如此具有创意，人们远远走来就能发现这是Cazal的作品。Cazal的镜框总是凸显脸部，并非将其藏匿。”品牌最近重新发布的经典系列包括Cazal Legends系列，以及以此为基础的2014系列。 “Cazal 致力于为女士们打造，以当今需求重新诠释1980元素的系列。” 如果偏爱定制程度更高的产品，可在 Brillenschneiderei 找到的Herrlicht 木质框架太阳镜是绝佳选择。这个Andreas Licht 旗下的品牌从他的木制家具系列延伸而来，到今年已有10 年历史。 “我喜欢这种材质并想将其做成别人没做过的产品。”Licht 透露。只使用德国原生树木的木料，以10 到15 个小时的高强度手工制成，Herrlicht 的眼镜是彻头彻尾的艺术品。 “Herrlicht 眼镜可不是大众产品；每一件都无出其右。材质是如此诱人：如此温暖、散发着光芒、外观多么美丽。钟情于我们镜框的不少顾客，都是为凝结在其中的手工艺而着迷。”Licht 表示。想要时尚与功能性兼备的消费者，不妨关注生产无螺丝太阳镜的Ic Berlin。 “灵感源自于军车，想要制作出简单的无螺丝铰链， ”品牌创始人 Ralph Anderl 表示。以功能为中心创作眼镜理念，帮助品牌的产品遍及全球。 “舒适、实用、寿命持久，而并非只是潮流酷款。”Anderl 指出。 “另一方面，眼镜还必须在佩戴者脸上显得美观。所以我们非常注重款式与设计。” 购买Ic Berlin太阳镜的最佳场所就是其柏林门店，店内配备了舒适的皮椅与堆叠的扬声器。 “当Ic Berlin创立时，柏林还没有光学产业， ”Anderl 继续说道。 “现在受到Ic Berlin的启发，已经有了许多其他的镜架品牌。柏林与德国都在重返光学舞台。我期望看到越来越多的德国制造，架在全世界女性与男性的鼻子上…” 基于目前的市场繁荣程度，他的愿望不日将可实现。 mykita.com, kuboraum.com, cazal-eyewear.com, herrlicht.de, ic-berlin.de

70: The Rest Is History 流金岁月柏林的精品店、酒吧、餐馆皆于细微处洋溢着怀旧气氛，令人身临魏玛时期的旧时光。Stephen Doig 带我们步入那流金岁月此世间众多城市，少有城市可与柏林比肩，拥有这般十足迷人的历史，落满过往的芬芳。城市景观随着时光悄然变化，政治制度却在剧烈变革。这个分割又聚合的城市犹如瞬息万变的沙丘，随风而动。你

在这个城市倾耳细听，能听得到历史过往的回声阵阵，如潮水般澎湃。勃兰登堡门到博物馆岛，历史沉淀厚重踏实，与这个城市先锋另类的一面比照鲜明。时尚店，餐厅，画廊，酒吧与酒店都酷酷打造着前沿先锋的氛围。这在潮流文化与历史沉淀的丛林中，柏林在Christopher Isherwood的作品中永恒。这位作家迷醉于柏林每一细节，在他对于柏林的描绘里，我们看见一个古旧的城市，如今亦可细细发掘，令人惊叹。或许我们该从 Schöneberg 寻觅他讲述的故事，Schöneberg 是 Isherwood曾经的寓所所在。他

PHOTO: CarL Van VeCHTen/Library Of COngress

CEO Beate Obersteiner所言： “他的风格是如此

的公寓隐藏在茂密成荫 Nollendorfstrasse大街，在这里小说家与模特兼歌手Jean Ross共享一间寓所。他源源不断的灵感来自于Sally Bowles在《再见柏林》中扮演的角色，这个角色由后来经由Liza Minnelli在电影版本《Cabaret》中的演绎而不朽。作家将笔触沾染魏玛共和国时期的享乐生活，画出一片如许春光，令人目醉神迷。他那般描述这迷醉的时光： “深重庄严的街头，阳台飞挑出高高的围墙，灯影憧憧中，小酒馆的灯寂寂寥寥地点上一整天。” 你若扔一块小石子，便会砸到隔壁的 Eldorado。这间酒吧便是依据《再见柏林》这部电影而建。演员Marlene Dietrich在Schöneberg出生，对这土地情深意重，演绎得自然极为精彩。如今这已是一间小超市，但门楣上的名称‘Eldorado’依旧清晰可见，墙上的黑白照片耐人寻味，提醒着你曾经的辉煌灿烂。这个年代里，Isherwood曾经小酌的酒吧，驻足的咖啡馆和商店如今或许早已经消逝不见，但1920年代柏林的颓废气息却依旧弥漫在 Schöneberg街头巷尾。比如 Stagger Lee酒吧，便关起门来，留住那些淡淡的怀旧况味。也许最令人回味历史区域是 Nikolaiviertel 街区。几条安静迷离的小巷迤逦在喧闹的亚历山大广场和Museumsinsel街道之间。在这里，你会寻觅到 Zum Nussbaum pub酒吧，这间酒吧历史可以追溯到几百年前。你不妨在此品一品德国啤酒与香肠，

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听一听老柏林故事，赏一赏19世纪漫画家Heinrich Zille 的墙上草图，他当年流连于此，留下不少珍贵画作。不过，千万别在此醉倒，忘了前去那金碧辉煌的Clärchens Ballhaus大厅，这华丽的歌舞厅已有一百余年的时光，水晶吊灯璀璨夺目，木板装饰暗里奢华。这此消磨一个乐队演奏的晚上，好似时光静静回淌倒流。悠久的柏林 K P M 制造厂（ K ö n i g l i c h e Porzellan -Manufaktu）也是那些荣光岁月的见证者。这由腓特烈大帝于1793 年创建的瓷器品牌，如今，仍然代表着那些好时光。在手工作品里，我们依旧能看见那些古典特质，比如那标志性的珍珠色调优雅的餐具，金箔装饰和手绘花卉图案，带我们回到那安静沉淀的时光。 HackescheHöfe广场将带给你另一种不一般的体验。1990 年代，柏林严格按照历史原貌恢复了八个相互连接的历史庭院，将断裂的文化枢纽重新连接。琳琅满目的商店，经营着精巧的手工肥皂。前沿先锋的书店和那些来自旧世界的珠宝精品店一定让你流连不舍。漫步在鹅卵石铺就的庭院里，你或许能和Sally Bowles一样惊喜发觉她的舞台华服就在下一家商店。迷恋复古风格的发烧友，绝对不能错过 Antikmarkt am Ostbahnhof 市场。此市场每周日开放，出售珍奇古玩，从唱机、喇叭、到华丽的1920 年代礼服，应有尽有。Isherwood 所描述的魏玛年代狂野夜生活或许已是一场迢遥的梦，但那华丽的古服饰却让你忆起那美好的流金岁月。 staggerlee.de, ballhaus.de, kpm-berlin.com, hackesche-hoefe.com

106: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。

日本語翻訳 106: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。

1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。

畅购全球，尊享退税

2. 還付請求当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けます。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5 ％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場合があります。

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他 globalblue.com

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‫ألكسندربلتز ‪ Alexanderplatz‬وجزيرة موزينسل ‪.Museumsinsel‬‬ ‫تجد هنا حانة زوم نوسباوم ‪ Zum Nussbaum‬الجميلة التي تعود إل مئات‬ ‫السني‪ .‬إنّها الكان الثال لحتساء البية وتناول النقانق والستمع إل قصص برلي‬ ‫القدية وتأ ّمل رسومات الحائط من ابتكار ف ّنان الكاريكاتي هنيخ زيل ‪Heinrich‬‬ ‫‪ Zille‬الذي كان زائرا ً دائاً‪ .‬تو ّجه بعد ذلك إل صالة الرقص الكبية كلرشنس‬ ‫بالهاوس ‪ Clärchens Ballhaus‬التي تعود إل مئة سنة وتتميّز بثيّاتها‬ ‫التللئة وديكورها الغني بالخشب وفرقة موسيقيّة تعزف ف معظم المسيات – إنّها‬ ‫أشبه بالعودة بالزمن‪.‬‬ ‫بأسلوب رائع‪ ،‬مصنع برلي التاريخي‬ ‫من العال الخرى التي يتمثّل فيها الاض‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫كونيغليتش بورزيلن مانوفاكتور ‪Königliche Porzellan‬‬ ‫‪ Manufaktur‬لصناعة الخزف الذي ّأسسه فريدريك العظيم ‪Frederick‬‬ ‫‪ the Great‬سنة ‪ .1793‬ما زال يبز أسلوب العلمة الكلسيك ف قطعٍ مشغولة‬ ‫يدويّاً عل سبيل أوان مائدة أنيقة بلون اللّؤلؤ الخاص بالعلمة مزخرفة بأوراق ذهبيّة‬ ‫وأزهار مرسومة يدويّاً‪.‬‬ ‫ث ّة تجربة تس ّوق من نو ٍع مختلف تاماً ف هاكش هوف ‪Hackesche Höfe‬‬ ‫التي هي عبارة عن سلسلة من ثان ساحات تاريخ ّية متّصلة ببعضها البعض‪ ،‬أُعيد‬ ‫ترميمها بإتقان ف التسعينات كمركز ثقاف للمدينة‪ .‬من الحلت الغريبة فيها تلك‬ ‫الختصة بصناعة الصابون يدويّاً ومكتبات مبتكرة ومحلت مجوهرات قدية‪ِ .‬‬ ‫امش‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ف الساحات الرصوفة بالحص كسال باولز ‪ Sally Bowles‬عصيّة تنتقي أزياء‬ ‫مسح ّيتها القادمة‪.‬‬ ‫ل ب ّد لحبّي السلوب العريق بالتو ّجه إل أنتيكمركت أم أوستبانهوف‬ ‫كل نهار أحد ويبيع‬ ‫‪ Antikmarkt am Ostbahnhof‬الذي يفتح ّ‬ ‫مجموعة كبية من الثريّات من غراموفونات وأبواق وأزياء من العشينات‪ .‬قد‬ ‫تكون الحياة الليل ّية الصاخبة التي سادت ف فايار ‪ Weimar‬ووصفها إشوود‬ ‫القل أن تستمتع‬ ‫‪ Isherwood‬بحذافيها جزءا ًمن الاض‪ ،‬لكن يكنك عل ّ‬ ‫بالشهد العام وتعيش التجربة‪.‬‬

‫‪staggerlee.de, ballhaus.de, kpm-berlin.com,‬‬ ‫‪hackesche-hoefe.com‬‬

‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 106‬‬ ‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax‬‬ ‫‪ Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق‬ ‫التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫تنضم إل الـ ‪ 23‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫فل َم ل ّ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة‬ ‫عل إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب خدمة الزبائن‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ‬ ‫الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم‬ ‫إداري‪ . .‬ف بعض نقاط الستداد‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم إضاف محدّد عل كل طلب استداد‬ ‫ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

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‫اللانيّة الثية مركزا ً لبتكار نظارات جريئة؛ تبتكر بعض العلمات التجاريّة أساليب‬ ‫تعكس أناقة الثمنيات‪ ،‬محفورة يدويّاً عل الخشب ومنجزة من دون استخدام براغي‪.‬‬ ‫من خلل التصاميم الفائقة العصيّة والبتكرة‪ ،‬تحرص هذه العلمات الواقعة ف برلي‬ ‫عل إبقاء مح ّبي الوضة البتكرة بحلّة مم ّيزة عل مدار السنة‪.‬‬ ‫متخصصة بالنظارات‬ ‫تزداد شهرة ميكيتا ‪ Mykita‬العاليّة بسعة كعلمة تجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشمس ّية‪ .‬بالرغم من وقوع مق ّرها الرئيس ومشغلها ف برلي‪ ،‬لديها حال ّياً سبعة متاجر‬ ‫أساسيّة وت ُباع منتجاتها ف ما يزيد عن سبعي محلً حول العال‪ .‬تشح الديرة التنفيذيّة‬ ‫ومديرة قسم التصميم والنتاج الف ّني فيها موريتز كروغر ‪Moritz Krueger‬‬ ‫متخصص واحد ف برلي‬ ‫أ ّن إبقاء فريق ميكيتا ‪ Mykita‬بأكمله تحت سقف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ضوري ج ّدا ً بالنسبة إل رؤيتها البتكرة‪ .‬وتضيف‪“ :‬لدينا كل القسام ف ميكيتا هاوس‬ ‫‪ ،Mykita Haus‬المر الذي يوفر أفضل تعاون ويسمح بالتفاعل بسعة فائقة‪”.‬‬ ‫كانت مقاربة ميكيتا ‪ Mykita‬الركزيّة ف برلي ف ّعالة للغاية‪ .‬أطلقت العلمة مؤخّرا ً‬ ‫مجموعة ميكيتا مايلون ‪ Mykita Mylon‬التي تشمل نظارات شمسيّة رياضيّة‬ ‫فاخرة مصنوعة من النايلون‪ .‬تقول موريتز ‪ Moritz‬ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬ما من منافس‬ ‫لهذه الادّة ف عال النظّارات؛ إنّها خفيفة الوزن وقابلة للتعديل ومتينة ومرنة‪ .‬كم‬ ‫تنح التصميم جملً جديدا ً إذ حاولنا أن ننقل للناس ملمس وإحساس الادّة الصل ّية‪.‬‬ ‫مذّاك‪ ،‬فازت تلك الجموعة بجائزة إنتناشونال فوروم ديزاين ‪International‬‬ ‫‪ Forum Design Award‬وجائزة ريد دوت ديزاين ‪Red Dot.‬‬ ‫‪”Design Award‬‬ ‫من السمء الخرى اللمعة ف مجال النظّارات ف الدينة كوبوراوم ‪.Kuboraum‬‬ ‫تأسست هذه العلمة الناشطة دوماً ف شباط‪/‬فباير ‪ 2012‬وتصف منتجاتها بـ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫“القنعة” وليس بالنظارات الشمس ّية وقد ساعدتها هذه اليديولوج ّية الجريئة عل‬ ‫ومحل ف متجر طوكيو الفاخر الكبي أيسيتان ‪.Isetan‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫افتتاح متجر رئيس ف برلي‬ ‫يتحدّث مدير العلمة ومسؤول قسم العلقات والتسويق فيها سيجيو أوزيبي‬ ‫‪ Sergio Eusebi‬عن فلسفتها الفريدة من نوعها‪ “ .‬القناع قطعة غي عضويّة‪،‬‬ ‫يتمتّع بطاقة تفوق استخدامه‪ .‬فوجدنا طريقة جديدة لتحديد طبيعة عملنا‪ .‬ل نصنع‬ ‫نظّارات‪ ،‬بل أقنعة‪”.‬‬ ‫س ُيذهل مح ّبو القطع القدية بالتألّق العريق الذي تتمتّع به تصاميم كازال ‪Cazal‬‬ ‫الوجودة ف ّ‬ ‫محل آي كوتور ‪ Eye Couture‬ف برلي‪ .‬تعود هذه العلمة‬ ‫إل سة ‪ 1975‬وتأخذ إسمها من مص ّممها الرئيس الراحل كاري زالون ‪Caro‬‬ ‫‪ .Zalloni‬باتت الكثي من تصاميم زالون ‪ Zalloni‬البدعة قطعاً مميّزة إذ‬ ‫اعتمدها نجوم الهيب هوب ف نيويورك كرموز لهم‪ .‬عل ح ّد قول مديرة كازال‬ ‫‪ Cazal‬التنفيذيّة بيات أوبرشتاين ‪“ :Beate Obersteiner‬كان أسلوبه‬ ‫فريدا ً من نوعه إل ح ّد كبي وأفكاره مبتكرة للغاية لدرج ٍة أنّه كان من المكن تحديد‬ ‫تصاميم كازال ‪ Cazal‬من مساف ٍة بعيدة‪ .‬يزيّن إطار كازال ‪ Cazal‬الوجوه‪ ،‬ل‬ ‫يغطّيها‪ ”.‬أعادت العلمة مؤخّرا ً إطلق بعض التصاميم الكلسيك ّية من خلل مجموعة‬ ‫التوسع ف هذا الجال سنة‬ ‫كازال لجندس ‪ Cazal Legends‬وتخطّط إل ّ‬ ‫خاصة بالنساء مع التكيز عل عناص‬ ‫‪ .2014‬تعمل كازال ‪ Cazal‬عل مجموعة ّ‬ ‫جيّدة من الثمنينات تتمش مع حاجات اليوم‪”.‬‬ ‫أ ّما إن كنت تبحث عن نظّارات مص ّممة بحسب الطلب‪ ،‬فتشكّل نظّارات‬ ‫محل بريلنشنايدري‬ ‫هرليخت ‪ Herlicht‬الخشبيّة الطار والوجودة لدى ّ‬ ‫‪ Brillenschneiderei‬خيارا ً ممتازا ً‪ .‬تحتفل علمة أندرياس ليخت‬ ‫‪ Andreas Licht‬هذه السنة بعيد تأسيسها العاش وقد انبثقت من مهارته‬ ‫“أحب الخشب وأردت أن أج ّرب‬ ‫ف ابتكار أثاث خشبي‪ .‬يقول ليخت ‪:Licht‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫به شيئاً ل يقم به أي شخص من قبل‪ ”.‬ل يستخدم إل خشب الشجار التي تنمو‬ ‫ف ألانيا ويستغرق صنعها ما بي ‪ 10‬و‪ 15‬ساعة من العمل لتشكّل خيارا ً حرف ّياً‬ ‫بالكامل‪ .‬يضيف ليخت ‪“ :Licht‬ل تُنتج نظّارات هرليخت ‪ Herrlicht‬بكميّات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كبية؛كل قطعة فريدة من نوعها‪ .‬يجذب الخشب انتباه الشخاص‪ :‬إنّه دافئ وخفيف‬ ‫الوزن وجميل‪ .‬يُعجب بعض زبائننا بإطارات نظّاراتنا بفضل الحرفيّة التي ُصنعت بها‪”.‬‬ ‫اخت إك برلي ‪Ic Berlin‬‬ ‫إن كنت تفضّ ل أن تدمج نظّاراتك بي العمل ّية والوضة‪َ ،‬‬

‫مؤسس العلمة رالف أندرل ‪Ralph‬‬ ‫التي تنتج نظّارات ل براغي فيها‪ .‬يقول ّ‬ ‫مفصلة بسيطة خالية من الباغي مستوحاة‬ ‫‪“ :Anderl‬تثّلت الفكرة بابتكار ّ‬ ‫من جمليّة السيّارات العسكريّة‪ ”.‬نتيجة ابتكار نظّارات تعتمد عل مبدأ العمليّة‪،‬‬ ‫وصلت العلمة التجاريّة إل أرجاء العال‪ .‬يضيف أندرل ‪“ :Andrel‬تدوم النظّارات‬ ‫الريحة العمليّة أكث من تلك الغريبة الجارية للموضة ل غي‪ .‬من جه ٍة اخرى‪ ،‬عل‬ ‫النظّارات أن تبدو جميلة عل وجه الزبون‪ .‬لذا نول أهميّة كبى للسلوب والتصميم‪”.‬‬ ‫الكان الفضل لشاء نظّارات إك برلي ‪ Ic Berlin‬هو متجر العلمة ف برلي‬ ‫بكبات صوت‪ .‬يكمل أندرل‬ ‫الم ّيز بقاعد جلديّة مريحة وصندوق محاسبة مز ّود ّ‬ ‫‪ Anderl‬قائلً‪“ :‬عندما بدأت علمة إك برلي ‪ ،Ic Berlin‬ل يكن هناك صناعة‬ ‫نظّارات ف برلي‪ .‬لكن اليوم وبعد الستلهام من إك برلي ‪ ،Ic Berlin‬بات هناك‬ ‫عدّة علمات تجاريّة تُعنى بأطر النظارات‪ .‬تعود كل من برلي وألانيا إل الظهور‬ ‫عل ساحة النظّارات‪ .‬لذا أتطلّع قدماً إل رؤية الزيد والزيد من النتجات الصنوعة‬ ‫ف ألانيا عل أنوف نسا ٍء ورجال حول العال‪”...‬‬ ‫نظرا ً للزدهار الهائل الذي يشهده السوق اللان‪،‬لن ينتظر طويلً‪.‬‬

‫‪mykita.com, kuboraum.com,‬‬ ‫‪cazal-eyewear.com, herrlicht.de, ic-berlin.de‬‬ ‫‪The Rest Is History: 70‬‬ ‫الباقي كلّه تاريخ‬ ‫تكمن بي الحلت والحانات والطاعم البتكرة بقايا برلي قدية‪ ،‬تفوق برلي الحاليّة‬ ‫سنيناً وتساويها جملً‪ .‬يعود ستفن دويغ ‪ Stephen Doig‬بالزمن إل الوراء‬ ‫ل يكن أن تتمتّع الكثي من الدن ف العال بالتاريخ الذهل الذي تتميّز به برلي‪ .‬بالرغم‬ ‫التغيات التي طرأت عل أراضيها وأنظمتها وتقسيمتها واتّحاداتها‪ ،‬است ّمرت‬ ‫من ّ‬ ‫كل مكان‪ ،‬من ب ّوابة براندنبغ‬ ‫الدينة ف النم ّو ككثيب رمل‪ .‬يد ّوي صدى الاض ف ّ‬ ‫‪ Brandeburg‬إل جزيرة ميوزيسنسل ‪ Museumsinsel‬مش ّكلً نظيا ً‬ ‫لا فيها من تصاميم مبتكرة وأزياء ومتاجر ومطاعم ومعارض وفنادق مميّزة تطمح‬ ‫بالفوز بلقب نكست كول ثنغ ‪ .Next Cool Thing‬ول ب ّد اليوم من‬ ‫زيارة أجزاء من برلي تتخلّد ف كتابات كريستوفر إشوود ‪Christopher‬‬ ‫‪ Isherwood‬بالضافة إل معال مدينة أكث قدماً‪.‬‬ ‫ربا من النسب البدء من منطقة شونيبغ ‪ Schöneberg‬التي اتّخذ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إشوود ‪ Isherwood‬منها مسكناً له‪ .‬هنا ف شارع نولندورفستاس‬ ‫الكسو بالوراق‪ ،‬سكن الروائ مع العارضة والغ ّنية‬ ‫‪ّ Nollendorfstrasse‬‬ ‫جي روس ‪ Jean Ross‬التي ألهمته بشخص ّية سال بولز ‪ Sally Bowles‬ف‬ ‫رواية “وداعاً برلي” ‪ Goodbye to Berlin‬وتخلّدت بشخصيّة ليزا مينل‬ ‫‪ Liza Minnelli‬ف فيلم كاباريه ‪ .Cabaret‬تع ّمق الكاتب ف خلل‬ ‫إقامته بحياة التعة ف جمهوريّة فاير ‪ Weimar Republic‬ومن الذهل‬ ‫أن نرى الكان الذي يصفه بشغف بـ “الشارع العريض التّسم بالعراقة والوقار‪.‬‬ ‫تكث فيه القبية الستخدمة كمحلت‪ ،‬حيث تُضاء النوار طيلة النهار لتبديد ظلمة‬ ‫الشفات التي تعلوها‪”.‬‬ ‫عل مرمى حجر من هناك‪ ،‬كان يقع ملهى إلدورادو ‪ Eldorado‬الذي ألهم الكاتب‬ ‫باللهى ف رواية وداعاً برلي ‪Goodbye to Berlin‬؛ وقد عرضت فيه مارلي‬ ‫ديتيتش ‪ Marlene Dietrich‬الولودة ف شونيبغ ‪.Schöneberg‬‬ ‫بات اليوم سوبرماكت صغية لكن يحتفظ بإسم إلدورادو ‪ Eldorado‬فوق الباب‬ ‫وث ّة ف الداخل صور بالبيض والسود من أمجاد اللهى‪ .‬قد تكون الحانات والقاهي‬ ‫والتاجر التي ارتادها إشوود ‪ Isherwood‬أغلقت منذ فت ٍة بعيدة‪ ،‬لكن‬ ‫يتك ّرس ج ّو برلي العشينات بامتياز ف حانات شونيبغ ‪ Schöneberg‬عل‬ ‫سبيل ستاغر ل ‪.Stagger Lee‬‬ ‫قد تكون إحدى الناطق الكث تذكيا ً بالاض منطقة نيكوليفيتل‬ ‫‪ Nikolaiviertel‬التاريخ ّية التي تض ّم شبكة طرقات هادئة بي ضوضاء ساحة‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ةّيبرعلا ةغللاب ةمجرت‬

‫‪Street Cred: 56‬‬ ‫كسب مصداقيّة الشارع‬

‫‪PHOTO: GeOrG rOske‬‬

‫تشتهر برلي بأزيائها الحازمة والبتكرة وغي التقليديّة‪ ،‬تقرير تشارل نايدباث‬ ‫‪Charlie Neidpath‬‬ ‫قالت كوكو شانيل ‪“ :Coco Chanel‬ل تنحص الوضة بالفساتي‪ .‬توجد الوضة‬ ‫ف السمء والشارع وترتبط بالفكار وبطريقة عيشنا وبا يحصل من حولنا”‪ .‬قد يصعب‬ ‫تص ّور تصاميم شانيل ‪ Chanel‬الميّزة بالللئ وأقمشة التويد الجعداء ف شوارع‬ ‫برلي الغبة‪ ،‬لكن تظهر بعض ملمح أسلوبها بوضوح ف الدينة‪ ،‬وذلك نتيجة تخّض‬ ‫أزيائها البتكرة الخّاذة الميّزة من شوارع برلي‪.‬‬ ‫من طرقات ميتي ‪ Mitte‬النعطفة حتّى شوارع شونيبغ ‪Schöneberg‬‬ ‫الكس ّوة بالوراق‪ ،‬تشكّل موضة الشارع جزءا ً ل يتج ّزأ من أسلوب الزياء ف الدينة‪ .‬ف‬ ‫الوقت الذي قد يبدو من الطبيعي ج ّدا ً ارتداء ابتكارات مص ّممي من الرأس حتّى‬ ‫أخمص القدمي‪ ،‬يُعتب ذلك غريباً ف برلي مقارن ًة مع ما يرتديه سكّانها‪ .‬العلمات‬ ‫الختصة بقمش الدّنيم الحرف والتاجر الغريبة الواقعة ف أماكن يصعب‬ ‫التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إيجادها واللمسات الرياضيّة وموضة الشارع والنفحة الرتداديّة هي ما ييّز الدينة‪.‬‬ ‫يدير خبي الزياء ف الدينة كارل‪ -‬هاينز مولر ‪Karl-Heinz Müller‬العرض‬ ‫التجاري الحتم الذي يُجرى م ّرتي ف السنة بريد أند باتر ‪Bread & Butter‬‬ ‫ومتجره‬ ‫التخصص البتكر الذي يُعنى بالدّنيم فورتي أوز ‪( 14oz‬الذي س ّمي بهذا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫السم ً‬ ‫نسبة إل وزن الدّنيم الثال)‪ .‬عل ح ّد قوله‪“ :‬يرتبط إسم باريس باللبس‬ ‫الجاهزة والزياء الراقية‪ .‬وتذكّرنا ميلنو بالبدلت الرسم ّية وفساتي السهرة لدى‬ ‫برادا ‪ Prada‬وغوتش ‪ Gucci‬وغيها‪ .‬وف لندن‪ ،‬نفكّر بالواهب البتكرة‪ ،‬أ ّما‬ ‫ربا ليس‬ ‫ف برلي فم يطرأ عل بالنا هو العلمات التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الختصة بوضة الشارع‪ّ .‬‬

‫كل قطاع “ ُمحتكر” من الزياء‪ ،‬كان مبتكرو برلي يتدخّلون‬ ‫ذلك بالمر الغريب‪ .‬ففي ّ‬ ‫ف زاوية غي مستكشفة من قبل‪ ،‬ولهذا السبب أصبحت موضة الشارع واللبس العمل ّية‬ ‫البتكرة من اختصاص الدينة‪.‬‬ ‫بالضافة إل ذلك‪ ،‬لطالا شكّلت القمشة واللبس الرياضيّة جزءا ً كبيا ً من صناعات‬ ‫الدينة‪ ،‬لذا من الطبيعي أن أصبحت عناص أساسيّة من أسلوب ملبس الشخاص‪.‬‬ ‫وتجد مكاتب بريد أند باتر ‪ Bread & Butter‬النيقة فوق متجر أديداس‬ ‫‪.Adidas‬‬ ‫بالنسبة إل مولر ‪ ،Müller‬ليس التاريخ هو ما ي ّيز برلي فحسب‪ ،‬بل أيضاً موقعها‬ ‫ف نقطة التقاء ثقافات أوروبيّة ودورها كب ّوابة إل الغرب‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الصدد‪:‬‬ ‫“لطالا ات ّخذ البتكرون منها موطناً لهم‪ ،‬لكن بعد سقوط الحائط‪ ،‬باتت برلي أكث‬ ‫أي ٍ‬ ‫كل زاوية من‬ ‫وقت مض مركزا ً للطاقة والفكار والختبار”‪ .‬يبز الختبار ف ّ‬ ‫من ّ‬ ‫برلي‪ ،‬ليس من خلل طريقة لبس مواطنيها فحسب‪ ،‬بل أيضاً ف متاجرها البتكرة التي‬ ‫تدمج بي الزياء الراقية غي التقليديّة والساليب الرياضيّة وموضة الشارع – لذا من‬ ‫تنسق ملبس نايك ‪ Nike‬مع حقيبة إرميس ‪.Hermès‬‬ ‫الطبيعي ج ّدا ً هنا أن ّ‬ ‫التخصصة وأشهرها فورتي أوز‬ ‫عب عن هذه القاربة إل الزياء ف متاجر برلي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يُ ّ‬ ‫‪ 14oz‬الذي بات لديه فرعي فيها‪ ،‬الساس ف ميتي ‪ Mitte‬ويثّل مقصدا ً لختيار‬ ‫تصاميم مبتكرة‪ .‬لع إسمه من خلل بيع مزيج مثي من العلمات التجاريّة الصاعدة‬ ‫والدّنيم الحرف (الذي يشكّل جزءا ً أساس ّياً من السلوب الشعبي) والسمء العريقة‬ ‫والعلمات التجاريّة العاليّة‪ :‬ستات كندا غوز ‪ Canada Goose‬إل جانب‬ ‫ق ّبعات العلمة التجاريّة اليطال ّية العريقة بورسالينو ‪ Borsalino‬وساويل الدّنيم‬ ‫من جي ستار ‪ G-Star‬إل جانب أوشحة درايكس ‪ Drake’s‬من شارع سافيل‬ ‫رو ‪.Savile Row‬‬ ‫أ ّما متجر داركلندس ‪ Darklands‬ف منطقة تيغارتن ‪،Tiergarten‬‬ ‫كل‬ ‫فيلتزم كغيه من التاجر بنش الوضة الختباريّة‪ .‬تسود عناص الوضة التخطّية ّ‬ ‫الحدود عل ساحة الزياء‪ ،‬من بوريس بدجان صابري ‪Boris Bidjan Saberi‬‬ ‫وريك أونز ‪ Rick Owens‬وأكسسوارات كارول كريستيان بويل ‪Carol‬‬ ‫‪ Christian Poell‬الجلديّة شبه الرث ّة‪ .‬لدى متجر فو ‪ Voo‬ف منطقة‬ ‫كل الذواق وتشمل ستات كارن وست‬ ‫كروزبرغ ‪، Kreuzberg‬تصاميم ترض ّ‬ ‫‪ Carin Wester‬الحش ّوة بالزغب والزخرفة برسمت ذيول حيوانات وكنزات‬ ‫تحمل شعار كنزو ‪ Kenzo‬وأحذية رياض ّية مضلّعة محدودة الكم ّية من نايك‬ ‫‪ .Nike‬يقول مدير قسم التصميم والنتاج الف ّني هربرت هوفمن ‪Herbert‬‬ ‫نحب الوضة‬ ‫‪“ :Hofmann‬يعتمد مبدأ فو ‪ Voo‬عل أسلوب حياة معي‪ّ .‬‬ ‫والوسيقى والف ّن والحرفيّة التقنة‪”.‬‬ ‫التخصصة‬ ‫ل تبز إمكان ّية دمج اللبس الفاخرة بوضة الشارع من خلل التاجر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬بل أيضاً من خلل معارض ومشاغل برلي الشقيّة وأسبوع برلي للموضة‬ ‫والشباب اليافعي الذين يحضونه ف ملبس جديرة بالتصوير‪ .‬ف مدين ٍة اضط ّرت إل‬ ‫تغيات دراماتيكيّة‪ ،‬ل عجب أن تتمتّع أزياؤها بأسلوب غي تقليدي عل‬ ‫التكيّف مع ّ‬ ‫الطلق‪ .‬أسلوب قد يحظى بإعجاب كوكو شانيل ‪.Coco Chanel‬‬

‫‪breadandbutter.com, 14oz-berlin.com,‬‬ ‫‪darklandsberlin.com, vooberlin.com‬‬ ‫‪Putting Others In The Shade: 62‬‬ ‫نظارات مبتكرة‬ ‫بفضل التصاميم القدية العاد تصنيعها حديثاً والبتكارات الخشبيّة النفّذة بحسب‬ ‫الطلب والساليب الفاخرة الرياضيّة العمليّة‪ ،‬تشهد صناعة النظّارات الشمس ّية ف ألانيا‬ ‫ازدهارا ً غي مسبوق‪ .‬تسلّط سال ماكيلون ‪ Sally McIlhone‬الضوء عل أبرز‬ ‫العلمات التجاريّة ف هذا الجال‬ ‫قد يتوقّع البعض أن يكون الوطن الجديد لتصميم نظّارات شمسيّة عصيّة مشمساً عل‬ ‫الدوام‪ ،‬لكن ل تكن برلي يوماً مدينة تلتزم بالصورة النمطيّة‪ .‬مؤخّرا ً‪ ،‬باتت العاصمة‬

120 | P RO D U C T S

HEART OF THE CITY How would you represent a whole city in just one souvenir? The city of Berlin launched a design competition last year that asked just that. The well-deserved winner of the competition was the Pulsader pendant, designed by Gaspare Buzzatti and Lisa Filipini to resemble a map of the city, with the river Spree running through it. Other competitors included a mini Berlin Wall you could tear down yourself and a dancing techno bear. The Pulsader (which means artery in German) Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 106

shows Berlin as Berliners see it: a beating heart with originality pulsing through it. The medallion, available in gold, aged silver or brass to suit any skin tone, emphasises the international energy of Berlin: a souvenir worthy of one of the most creative places in Europe. This statement piece will keep your memories of the city close to your heart. jtj Gaspare Buzzati and Lisa Filipini Pulsader pendant, â&#x201A;Ź65, Concept Store M, Gipsstrasse 5, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8431 9126, concept-store-m.com

PHOTO: MicHele Zanin

Souvenir

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montblanc boutique berlin friedrichstrasse 80 tel.: 0 30 20 38 83 50 KaDeWe tauentzienstrasse 21-24 tel.: 0 30 25 20 79 33 www.montblanc.com