SHOP Cologne SS14

Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions CoLogne am neumarkt Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 29

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit!

Köln, Hohe Straße 66, T +49.(0)221.257 04 40 koeln@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery!

W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N C O LO G N E : • Schildergasse 39, 0221 - 920860 • Hohe Straße 148–150, 0221 - 2575964 • Trankgasse 11 (Colonaden, Hbf), 0221 - 1395047

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN COLOGNE. Schildergasse 109 · Einkaufszentrum Köln-Arcaden (Kalk) · Hohe Straße 94 · Rhein-Center (Weiden) · City-Center (Chorweiler) CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS STAR* limited edition, necklace 585/- gold with brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.25 ct.**

Passion. Made in Germany.

The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection.

Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

www.christ.de

10

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Czech Republic Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera ILLUSTRATION: PAUL X JOhNSON

‫دليل ألانيا‬

Welcome to Cologne This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Cologne has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit.

In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the creations from some of Germany’s leading fashion labels this season (see our feature on page 38) and profle Gerry Weber (turn to page 44). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 33.

As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, fnd us on Facebook at Facebook.com/GlobalBlue, follow us on Twitter @GlobalBlue or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Emma Cheevers globalblue.com

德国指南

Руководство Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

montblanc boutique cologne wallrafplatz 7 50667 cologne tel.: 02 21 - 2 50 95 80

Montblanc Boutique

Montblanc Document Case

Montblanc TimeWalker ChronoVoyager UTC

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours

Montblanc Heritage Collection 1912 Fountain Pen

Montblanc has become purveyors of exclusive products that reflect today‘s high demand for quality, design, tradition and master craftsmanship.

fashion | lifestyle | beauty COLOGNE HOHE STRASSE

Enjoy the perfect shopping trip At 36,000 m2, GALERIA Kaufhof in Cologne’s Hohe Straße is one of the largest department stores in Europe which combines tradition and modernity. Located in the heart of the cathedral city, where the shopping precincts Hohe Straße and Schildergasse meet, it offers customers the ultimate shopping experience. Enjoy top international brands and latest trends in our fascinating fashion, beauty, home, sport and gourmet food departments.

GALERIA Kaufhof Hohe Straße 41-53 | 50667 Cologne Tel.: +49 (0) 221 - 2 23-0 opening hours: Monday - Thursday: 9.30 a.m. - 8.00 p.m.

Friday: 9.30 a.m. - 9.00 p.m.

Saturday: 9.00 a.m. - 8.00 p.m.

Heumarkt, Neumarkt Heumarkt, Neumarkt

P

GALERIA Kaufhof, Cäcilienstr.

perfect shopping with GALERIA Kaufhof

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

canda.com

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.

visit us on

facebook.com/ca

Köln Schildergasse 60–68 • Hohe Straße 67

canda.com

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

ΎΤဒμ ήΧ Α ΐ έ Ζϧ Ϟϫ ΔοϮϤ ΍ ΕΎΤϴλ ήΧ΃ ΎϨϳΪ ϥϭΪΠΘγ C&A ΕϼΤϣ ϪϣΪ Η ΎϤΑ ΪόδΘγ ΍Ϋ· ϲϓ ϕϮδΘ ΎΑ ΍ϮόΘϤΘΗ ϥ΃ ϻ· ϢϜϴϠϋΎϣϭ Δ ΎϧϹ΍ ΔϤ ϰ · έϮΒδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Ε΍Ϊϴδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Δόγ΍ϭ ΔϠϴϜθΗ ϰϠϋ ΍ήϜ ΍ ΎϨϨ΋ΎΑί ΎϧΩϮϋ Ϊ ΎϨΗϼΤϣ ϥΎϤΛϷ΍ Ϟπϓ΄Αϭ Δϴ Ύό ΍ ΔϴϋϮϨ ΍ Ε΍Ϋ ΎϔρϷ΍ϭ ΎΟή ΍ϭ

Köln, Breite Straße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.

Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt Kรถln.

18

Contributors

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s managing editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with the top brands and designers around the world.

For this edition, she fnds out about the leading German fashion label Gerry Weber and its plans for the future. globalblue.com

PHOTO: dORcAS BROwN

PHOTO: BRAd cLARke PHOTOGRAPHy

ILLUSTRATION: GIAcOmO BAGNARA

Giacomo Bagnara Giacomo Bagnara created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Cologne. His bold compositions and daring use of colour made him the perfect choice. His design shows a print on a woman’s dress, inspired by Cologne’s skyline, in a striking colour palette to refect our feature about Germany’s latest fashions on page 38. Giacomo has previously created artwork for publications including the New Yorker, GQ Italy and the New York Times.

Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Dominique Fenn Dominique Fenn, formerly managing editor of i-D, studied fashion journalism in London. She is now SHOP’s fashion and news editor, constantly keeping up to date with the latest style developments.

Isabella Redmond Styles Isabella Redmond Styles, SHOP’s assistant fashion and news editor, studied at the London College of Fashion and has written for publications including the Daily Mail, Hufngton Post and Easy Living.

Cologne: Domkloster 2 & MittelstraĂ&#x;e 32

20

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief

Publisher

Emma Cheevers

James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Giacomo Bagnara Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaebv Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing coordinator Nadine Tillmann Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Cologne Tourist Board, Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430, cologne-tourism.de SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

APOSTELNSTR. 1-3 · 50667 KÖLN · 0221 - 99 39 71 86 SCHILDERGASSE 113-117 · 50667 KÖLN · 0221 - 25 89 99 34

22

Contents p.50

P ro d u c t s 24 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from cologne this season 26 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 30 Shop Window one store not to be missed in cologne 32 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products f e at u r e s 38 Cover Story: Bright And Bold some of Germany’s leading fashion labels are moving away from minimalism to embrace colour and print, dominique fenn discovers 44 Going For Gold German fashion label Gerry weber has been a leader in its feld for decades. sally McIlhone fnds out about its plans for the future Above: Meissen Couture spring/summer 2014

50 Perfect Pieces Internationally renowned German porcelain brand Meissen is turning its attention to the catwalk. Isabella redmond styles investigates Gu I de 57 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of cologne, plus useful information for visitors esseNtI a ls 71 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r a N s l at I o N s 73 Русский Перевод 77 美文翻译 79 日本語翻訳 81 Postca r d 82 sHoP writes home about Berghof

FUNCTIONALITY IS PART OF OUR FAMILY.

SWISS CHAMP

DIVEMASTER

EXPLORER JACKET

SPECTRA

FRAGRANCE

FLAGSHIP STORE DÜSSELDORF I KÖNIGSALLEE 88 I 40212 DÜSSELDORF BRAND STORE KÖLN I WALLRAFPLATZ 2 I 50667 KÖLN SWISS ARMY KNIVES CUTLERY TIMEPIECES TRAVEL GEAR FASHION FRAGRANCES | WWW.VICTORINOX.COM

24 | P RO D U C T S

THE BAG TO BAG Nothing says summer is here quite like a new handbag in a bright and bold colour. This season we’ll be carrying Coccinelle’s zingy lemon perforated tote bag and giving a nod to the current trend for laser-cut leather while doing so. Committed to using top-quality materials, Italian brand Coccinelle has 67 stores around the globe and is stocked in some of the world’s most exclusive department Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 71

stores. Available in a vivid blue or bright yellow, this Coccinelle safano leather handbag has a classic tote shape which makes it easy to wear and the perforated leather adds a fashionable edge. irs Coccinelle safano leather tote, €229, Coccinelle, Ehrenstrasse 45-47, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 8888, coccinelle.com * for map go to page 62

PHOTO: RObeRTO CenTamORe

Check Out

It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!

Grand Gourmet

Life tastes great.

Premium One Cromargan®

Knife set 5 pieces instead of 384,75*

Cookware set 4 pieces

289,–

instead of 496,95*

399,– *sum of the prices

Made in Germany

WMF Stores Köln www.wmf.de/filialen

Schildergasse 106-108, Tel. 0221/2576572 Hohe Straße 134, Tel. 0221/2575888

26 | P RO D U C T S

INTO THE BLUE Items in denim and navy are stylish, fail-safe options in spring and summer

2

1

3

1. Swarovski Crystallium watch, €1,295, Swarovski, Wallrafplatz 8, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9506, swarovski.com

2. G-Star jacket, €199.90, G-Star, Neumarkt 1B, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2712 2220, g-star.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 71

3. Cos sandals, €125, Cos, Ehrenstrasse 33-35, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2589 9057, cosstores.com

PHOTO: (7) VICENTE SAHUC

S H O P | 27

4

6

5

7

4. Closed polo shirt, €129, Peek & Cloppenburg, Schildergasse 65-67, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 453900, closed.com 5. Massimo Dutti wallet, €39.95, Massimo Dutti, Schildergasse 99, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 8414, massimodutti.com

globalblue.com

6. Diesel jeans, €230, Diesel, Ehrenstrasse 69, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 4550, diesel.com

7. Hermès holdall, €3,200, Hermès, Domkloster 2A, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 420 7560, hermes.com

28 | P RO D U C T S

LIGHT TOUCH Pastels are central this season, and pale pistachio accessories with a glimmer of gold ofer a chic way to wear the trend

1. Bulgari handbag, €2,300, Bulgari, Wallrafplatz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 270 5650, bulgari.com

3. Louis Vuitton belt, €400, Louis Vuitton, Domkloster 2, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 6828, louisvuitton.com

5. Meissen earrings, €7,250, Meissen, Wallrafplatz 3, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 258 5677, meissen.com

2. Konplott necklace, €498, Konplott, Mittelstrasse 29, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 258 9308, konplott.com

4. Mykita sunglasses, €375, Optik Odenthal, Dellbrücker Hauptstrasse 127/129, 51069 Cologne, +49 (0)221 682266, mykita.com

6. Marc Cain scarf, €249, Marc Cain, Mittelstrasse 12-14, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9383, marc-cain.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 71

PHOTO: (1) MaurO FabbiO STudiO FOTOgraFicO

1

S H O P | 29 2

3

5

1

6

PHOTO: (5) Weyer & grill STudiOS

4

globalblue.com

30 | N E W S

PHOTO: aTelier-Tacke.de

Shop Window

THE CUTTING EDGE A Swiss Army knife is useful in so many situations and Victorinox, the company behind the famous brand, has recently opened its second store in Germany – in the centre of Cologne, not far from the cathedral.

As well as the famous Swiss Army knives, cutlery, timepieces, travel items, fashion and fragrances are stocked throughout the twofoor store. The interior has been designed to refect Victorinox and its products, with oak representing tradition, concrete for modernity and steel to echo the metal used in the knives.

Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 71

Patrick Hardy, global retail director for the brand, is sure that visitors will be impressed with the shop. ‘Our new store, in this great location, is the second step for Victorinox in North Rhine-Westphalia, a region where we have put on a strong performance,’ he says. ‘We are sure this will be a very special shopping experience, and look forward to bringing another authentic part of Switzerland to the Rhine region of Germany.’ df Victorinox, Wallrafplatz 2, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2806 7270, victorinox.com * for map go to page 60

OUR SPECIAL OFFERS:

Provider: Cyberport GmbH, Am Brauhaus 5, 01099 Dresden.

WWW.CYBERPORT.DE / PROSPEKT

Store Cologne Ehrenstraße 74 50672 Cologne Opening hours: Mon. – Sat. 10 – 20

✔ Latest lifestyle electronics ✔ Great prices ✔ Special offers ✔ Tax free shopping We are glad to help you.

www.cyberport.de

+ 49 351 3395-60

32 | N E W S

DIVE IN TO DOUGLAS Aiming to remain Europe’s perfumery market leader, Douglas is constantly updating its oferings. This year, each store is creating an even better shopping experience for its customers, with expert staf on hand to guide you through your choices. The Cologne branch on Hohe Strasse is no exception. For spring/summer we recommend browsing the luxurious selection of Mercedes-Benz perfumes, in particular the recently launched men’s scent, which is woody, fresh and masculine.

Women may be taken by the extensive range from Michael Kors, which includes not only fragrances but also make-up, skincare products and a wide range of nail lacquers. hl Douglas, Hohe Strasse 148-150, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 5964, douglas.de * for map go to page 61

HOMAGE TO JAPAN Roeckl celebrates its 175th anniversary this year and, as a result, the spring/summer 2014 collection is an extra-special one. Drawing on the brand’s ability to mix the traditional and the modern as well as its reputation as one of Germany’s leading manufacturers of leather gloves and sumptuous accessories, the collection combines Roeckl’s heritage with an homage to Japanese culture. Inspired by cherry blossoms, origami, bonsai and ikebana, the silk scarves are a highlight, created using an elaborate silk-screen printing process and painstakingly hand-rolled. You’ll wear and treasure a Roeckl scarf for years to come. irs Roeckl, Hohe Strasse 160-168, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 258 0287, roeckl.com * for map go to page 61 Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 71

S H O P | 33

SHOP THE WORLD

STORE WITH MORE S Oliver sets its sights high when it describes itself as ofering fashion for everyone, every day and in every situation, but judging by its success in Europe, it is certainly not misguided.

Priding itself on trend-led, good-quality clothing and accessories at fair prices and a company tradition that reaches back to 1969, the German brand’s range of womenswear, menswear and children’s clothing is a hit across the continent. Visit the spacious, modern Cologne store to stock up for the season ahead, whatever occasion you have in mind. irs S Oliver, Schildergasse 32-34, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2725 5830, soliver.com * for map go to page 65

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

34 | N E W S

TIME TRAVEL Created specifcally with frequent travellers in mind, the Montblanc TimeWalker WorldTime Hemispheres watches are a necessity for globetrotters. They simultaneously display the time in all of the world’s 24 time zones, while the local time wherever the wearer is located is shown by the hands. The names of 24 cities, representing the 24 time zones, are written around the dial and a 24-hour disc indicates the hours at each location. The watch is available in a northern and a southern hemisphere version, each bearing the names of the cities situated in that hemisphere, and shows a map of the earth with the North or South Pole as its centre. Serious globetrotters can rest assured that, as each version bears the other’s place names on the back of its case, the wearer will be up to date in the north, south, east and west. irs Montblanc, Wallrafplatz 7, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 250 9580, montblanc.com * for map go to page 60

PHOTO: © Brian YOung PHOTOgraPHY

SUMMER ESSENTIALS

Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 71

While Barbour might be famous for its waxed jackets, the British brand’s extensive range of womenswear and menswear is a hit in its own right. This season, Barbour presents collections for men and women, designed for those with active and busy lives. Women should look out for the classic Essington and Lowther jumpers which are perfect for layering on cool summer nights and, for festival goers, the Lula Durham jacket, a waxed parka with a pretty foral lining will prove invaluable. Men can experiment with this season’s trend for checks thanks to Barbour’s range of polo shirts and knitwear while the lightweight but durable jackets, such as the Lensetter and Sandbridge styles, are sure to be summer essentials. irs Barbour, Breite Strasse 169/Apostelnstrasse 50-52, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 2589 9476, barbour.com * for map go to page 62

My little

MysTery!

Sharam Diniz photographed by Matthew Brookes 路 www.meissen.com

MEISSEN 庐 Boutique K枚ln Wallrafplatz 3 路 Telefon: +49 221 2585677

36 | N E W S

PERFECT CIRCLES This season, we’re very taken with these eye-catching rings from Christ’s own collection.

Made out of yellow gold and set with a choice of stones including citrine and amethyst, they will add a rich and vibrant burst of colour to any look. Founded in 1863, Christ is one of Germany’s most trusted jewellers, with stores located across the country. Christ is known for its thoughtful edit of the latest jewellery and timepieces from Burberry, DKNY, Fossil, Gucci and Michael Kors, to name just a few of the high-end brands it stocks. irs Christ, Hohe Strasse 94, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 5701, christ.de * for map go to page 61

SKY-HIGH STYLE Parachutes are the unusual infuence for Ben Sherman’s Plectrum collection this season. The focus is on functional fabrics and items feature a modern print that references the skeletal frame of a parachute.

Look out for the parka coat which has been designed with a peaked hood and a padded, removable inner-jacket, making it a great trans-seasonal piece. There is also a selection of knitwear made from lightweight cotton. A colour palette of midnight blue, amber green and tangerine ensures that the season ahead will be bright. irs Ben Sherman, Ehrenstrasse 6, 50672 Cologne, +49 (0)221 6699 0812, bensherman.com * for map go to page 62 Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 71

S H O P | 37

STYLISH SOLUTIONS Wormland provides a stylish solution for every situation in which the modern man is likely to fnd himself. The store ofers an extensive range of men’s fashion and highlights include the impressive selection of businesswear.

With 15 branches throughout Germany, all stocking the latest collections from the likes of Hugo Boss, Belstaf, Karl Lagerfeld, Strellson and Tiger of Sweden, it’s easy to see why Wormland is one of Germany’s leading menswear specialists. irs Wormland, Schildergasse 51-53, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 272 4000, theowormland.de * for map go to page 65

ECO EXPLORER One of Europe’s leading functional outdoor apparel brands, Jack Wolfskin stands out for two key reasons. First, the brand is committed to responsible manufacturing and limiting its environmental footprint. Jack Wolfskin is at the forefront of innovative product research, developing the most eco-friendly production methods possible. Second, Jack Wolfskin brings a level of style to outdoor clothing that many brands don’t achieve. This Covent Garden backpack is padded for comfort and insulation, but also streamlined and compact, meaning that, even if you don’t venture of the beaten track, it will look great when you are simply exploring the city. hl Jack Wolfskin, Richmodstrasse 10, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 277 2880, jack-wolfskin.com * for map go to page 64 globalblue.com

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

888 / 888

888

Above: English caption xxxxx qui ofciducius ma nit fuga.

Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et m

S H O P | 39

Some of Germany’s leading fashion labels are moving away from minimalism to embrace colour and print, Dominique Fenn discovers

Bright And Bold

German fashion designers have long been pioneers of pared-back style, focusing on cut, elegantly sculptured silhouettes and clean lines.

Minimalism reached a peak in the 1990s and, while there has been a re-emergence of these styles over the past few seasons, many of the labels who spearheaded the understated aesthetic have embraced vivacious prints and bold colour for spring/summer 2014.

Jil Sander, the undisputed queen of restraint, returned to her namesake label for three feeting seasons, following Raf Simons’ departure. When the label showed at Milan 73 / 81

77

Opposite: Escada spring/summer 2014

40 | F E AT U R E S

German fashion is entering a new dawn through print, colour – and exuberance

Fashion Week, the palette for spring/summer was black, white and grey, although there were several looks bursting with colour and print, inspired by the work of the Italian conceptual artist Alighiero Boetti.

Escada was bought by Megha Mittal in 2009. As a mother who travels regularly, she is much like the modern woman the brand wants to dress; as a result, her infuence is producing interesting results.

In 2012, Mittal brought Daniel Wingate on board to modernise Escada, while staying true to the label’s heritage. Critics praised the new creative director for bringing a freshness to the collections; he has simplifed key looks and introduced sharp suits and separates while bringing back a touch of the famboyance seen in early Escada designs, such as his beautiful long evening dresses trimmed with feathers for autumn/winter 2013.

Creating a sense of escapism with daring prints is an area in which Wingate excels. For spring/summer 2014, animal infuences – seen in zebra stripes and girafe spots – sit alongside blown-up graphic foral prints and pineapple Above (from top): Escada; Jil Sander. Both spring/summer 2014

SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN for EVERYONE ec c o . c o m

ECCO Store Cologne - Breite Straße 42-46 - +49 (0) 221 57164727

42 | F E AT U R E S

motifs. The collection includes foaty dresses, trouser suits and evening dresses.

Drawing on the stylistic artistry of the surrealist art movement, classic pieces have been given an update at Boss. The label, known for its clean lines and smart tailoring with subtle yet inspired detailing, has manipulated standard shapes. This season, the label plays with illusions, in homage to the great surrealist artists such as Man Ray and René Magritte.

Just as the surrealists rejected limits, the new collection transcends boundaries, with leisurewear and eveningwear blurring.

The neckline of a double-breasted wool blazer, for instance, mimics that of a casual coat.

The magnifed rose blossoms on an etui dress appear to be hand-drawn, and the colours are subdued – from powder blue to grey – so as not to distract from the designs.

Germany’s relationship with creative fashion stretches back further than many Above (from lef): Escada; Boss; Escada; Boss. All spring/summer 2014

S H O P | 43

people might imagine. Over 700 years ago, a German man created what is believed to be the frst fashion book. Matthäus Schwarz was an accountant, born in Augsburg in 1497.

He commissioned an artist to record in detail what he was wearing from the ages of 23 to 63.

It remains one of the most unique documents in the history of fashion.

‘Then as now people used clothes to express values and emotions,’ explains Ulinka

Rublack, author of Dressing up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. She explains that even back then, clothes communicated fantasies, aspirations and anxieties and that Schwarz ‘loved the possibilities’ of new accessories, materials and cuts.

Returning to 2014, German fashion is entering a new dawn through print, colour – and exuberance jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com

S H O P | 45

GOING German fashion label Gerry Weber has been a leader in its feld for decades.

FOR Sally McIlhone fnds out about its plans for the future

GOld In four decades, Gerry Weber has launched fve diverse womenswear brands and opened 850 stores; it is so successful that the brand is now stocked in over 60 countries worldwide.

And that’s just the German label’s fashion arm. Now an accomplished lifestyle company, Gerry Weber also owns and operates a 13,000seat stadium, a golf course and an events and conference centre; the company even welcomes an elite clientele at its Sportpark hotel in Düsseldorf. This exceptionally wide-reaching 21st-century retail empire is a far cry from Gerry Weber’s roots, as a humble manufacturer of women’s trousers.

Yet, rather than rest on its laurels, for spring/summer 2014 Gerry Weber is poised to embark on further expansion – with such a rapid upward trajectory, it is becoming the German brand to watch. Ralph Weber, general

81

74 /

77

manager of Gerry Weber’s retail division and a descendant of the founder, took time out of his hectic schedule to discuss the label’s success.

Founded in 1973 by Udo Hardieck and the brand’s namesake, Gerhard Weber, the label sought to fuse fashion and lifestyle from the outset. Firmly positioned in the midpriced womenswear market for the last 40 years, Gerry Weber ofers covetable garments at more afordable prices than designer collections, but with an elevated level of quality than that found in most high street stores.

‘All Gerry Weber brands are positioned as bridges to the premium segment and ofer a high-quality standard and an excellent ft.

But each of the brand families is targeted at a clearly defned target group,’ says Ralph Weber. It’s this tailored approach that has led to the brand building fve successful labels Lef: Taifun by Gerry Weber pre spring/summer 2014

46 | F E AT U R E S

to please a wide range of modern women – Gerry Weber mainline, casualwear label Gerry Weber Edition, Samoon by Gerry Weber for fuller fgured ladies, and the GW and Taifun lines which cater to a younger, more trendconscious audience.

Unlike most globally successful German brands, Gerry Weber established its headquarters not in the buzzing metropolis of Berlin but in Halle (Westfalen), two hours from Düsseldorf and Cologne. All of the brand’s key departments are contained within one central location, improving creative efciency. ‘The sales, retail, pattern, design and production departments are now located under one roof,’ Ralph Weber explains. ‘We have built a modern complex for employees which optimises co-operation and creates synergies within an open and creative atmosphere.’

Gerry Weber World can also be found in Halle (Westfalen), home of the Gerry Weber Stadium, the Sportpark hotel and a 27-hole golf Above (clockwise from botom lef): Gerry Weber spring/summer 2014 collection; the brand’s Cologne store; Gerry Weber Stadium; spring/summer 2014 Edition collection

S H O P | 47

PHOTO: SCanliTHO.TEamS - BiElEfEld

‘We increasingly see ourselves as a global player’ Ralph Weber

course. According to the company, this is ‘a complete universe around the fashion brands’.

In addition, since 1993 Gerry Weber has been running the Gerry Weber Open tennis event, which was conceived and managed by Ralph Weber. ‘This is the only German ATP lawn-tennis tournament featuring stars from sport and entertainment. The media coverage reaches 120 countries,’ Ralph says. ‘The tournament not only increases recognition of the Gerry Weber group, but also associates a cosmopolitan image with the brand.’

Another factor that has improved the cosmopolitan view of Gerry Weber is the opening of the Halle 29 and Halle 30 showrooms on the outskirts of Düsseldorf. These two vast spaces entice international buyers to peruse Gerry Weber’s full collections each season. ‘By investing in these showroom complexes, we are signalling that Düsseldorf is a fashion centre.

Every year, more and more overseas customers attend events and order from us. We have

PHOTO: andReas mOelTGen fOTOGRafie

PHOTO: scanliTHO.Teams

48 | F E AT U R E S

customers from Russia, the Middle East, the Far East, Canada and from Europe.’

Responsible for ‘internationalising’ the brand, Ralph Weber’s innovative ideas have helped raise Gerry Weber’s profle to such an extent that it is now launching in several new territories across the globe. ‘After having successfully doubled the number of our stores, especially in Germany and Austria, we are now focusing on expanding our retail activities in other European countries,’ he explains. The expansion will include the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland and Sweden; stores will open in Prague and Stockholm, among other locations.

‘We increasingly see ourselves as a global player and will expand our international activities signifcantly,’ he concludes.

From Toronto to Tallinn, the Gerry Weber vision of style is making itself felt across the world gerryweber.com

Above (from top): Halle 29 showroom; Ralph Weber, general manager of Gerry Weber’s retail division

S H O P | 51

PERFECT PIECES

PHOTO: sTefan kraul

Internationally renowned German porcelain brand Meissen is turning its attention to the catwalk. Isabella Redmond Styles investigates

The link between perfect porcelain and beautifully made clothing might not seem obvious but, for Meissen, there’s a clear connection. Established in 1710 as Europe’s frst porcelain manufactory, the German company has a 300-year reputation for its commitment to superb quality, painstaking workmanship and timeless style, all traits that one would also fnd in the most prestigious Parisian couture houses. Meissen’s new bespoke clothing line, which launches this season, thus seems like a perfectly natural progression for one of Germany’s top luxury houses which already produces collections of porcelain art, fne jewellery and homeware.

The new line draws heavily on Meissen’s illustrious history. Founded at the request of Augustus the Strong, Elector Prince of Saxony and King of Poland, Meissen began as a porcelain factory in the German town of the same name at the imposing Albrechtsburg castle. Since its inception Meissen has been

80

75 /

78

52 | F E AT U R E S

known for producing only the fnest quality products from the best raw materials and the Meissen factory even has its own in-house pit where kaolin (china clay), used for making porcelain, can be excavated. Meissen’s manufacturing approach is dedicated and diligent, the refnement process required for the materials takes several months and every stage of the production process is carefully supervised. What’s more, Meissen’s painters and modellers undergo a minimum of three years’ training (and many train for a lot longer than that) in order to reach the standard that Meissen’s delicate handmade pieces require.

It’s little wonder, then, that the brand has such a longstanding association with quality, style and lasting value.

Throughout its three centuries, the company has continued to expand its reach, launching several diverse but equally successful lines. Continuing its tradition of historic porcelain, the company produces an exclusive Fine Art collection of limited-edition fgurative porcelain pieces, as well as the ArtCampus range, which includes one-of pieces made in collaboration with contemporary artists. Also inspired by the company’s rich history is the

Meissen’s chief designer Frida Weyer created 17 looks inspired by drawings and figurines from the Meissen archives

Previous: Cecilia dress, Meissen Couture spring/summer 2014

Meissen Joaillerie line, a much-coveted jewellery and watch range. The Meissen Home and Meissen Home Deco selections of furniture, homeware, tableware and decorative objects are equally desirable.

The brand also continues to cater for royalty and notable individuals with the Meissen Individuell custom and bespoke service.

Meissen’s royal clients will no doubt also be delighted by the debut fashion collection, which was presented at Milan’s September 2013 Fashion Week in the elegant surroundings of the courtyard of Villa Meissen in Milan.

Meissen CEO Christian Kurtzke and Franca Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, welcomed a host of guests that included journalists, buyers and VIPs to the presentation. Drawing on the company’s history, Meissen’s chief designer Frida Weyer created 17 looks inspired by drawings and fgurines from the Meissen archives. Each piece was original yet classic, demonstrating

the house’s talent for exquisite detailing and refecting Meissen’s long history of craftsmanship. The collection is made up of evening, bridal and cocktail dresses, described

by Weyer as ‘timelessly elegant, feminine, graceful and with a touch of romantic luxuriance’. Any piece from the new collection certainly wouldn’t look out of place at a state banquet or society wedding. Working with silk organza and shimmering silks, Weyer created dramatic silhouettes which, when juxtaposed with modern foral embroidery and intricate lacework, provided a fresh appeal.

Details like the three-dimensional foral embroidery which appears on several pieces in the collection might seem like an entirely modern touch but are actually rooted in Meissen’s 18th-century chinoiserie and snowball-blossom appliqués, as well as the company’s foral designs from the 19th and 20th centuries. Flourishes of pearls and crystal demonstrate the level of artistry that would be Above (clockwise): Meissen Couture spring/summer 2014; 1739 Royal Blossom collection, Meissen Joallerie; Frida Weyer, Meissen’s chief couture designer

PHOTO: MaRkus esseR

S H O P | 53

54 | F E AT U R E S

Meissen means business when it comes to its fashion foray. The couturiers of Paris should watch out

Above: Meissen painting room, circa 1900

expected from Meissen and the attention to detail rivals that of many established couture houses. Highlights include the vibrant silk organza Cecilia and Sissi gowns, likely to soon be seen on a frst lady or two.

CEO Christian Kurtzke explains that Meissen is looking forward to the future. ‘Now the goal is to further intensify our numerous international contacts to the top buyers of the important luxury department stores and develop the distribution of our new brand world.’ Fortunately for this ambition, the modern romance of the Chloe and Rosy dresses are certain to attract buyers worldwide, while the intricate craftsmanship demonstrated on the Grace and Olivia dresses, which feature hundreds of hand-embroidered 3D laser-cut blossoms and leaves, show that Meissen means business when it comes to its fashion foray.

The couturiers of Paris should watch out meissen.com

The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save

The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the world’s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register *Subject to local conditions.

to put a price on. we have created the Deep Blue Programme in partnership with the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, to preserve ocean environments in the Maldives and the Cook islands, home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species.

To ďŹ nd out more visit globalblue.com/oceans

G U I D E | 57

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Cologne with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/cologne or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

58 | G U I D E

Cologne Hotel Boulevard K YO T O

CHRISTOPHSTR./MEDIAPARK

STR A

SSE

HANS-BÖCKLERPLATZ/BF. WEST ST. GEREON CHURCH

BIS

R

MA

S CK

TR

AS

SE Mercure Friesenstrasse APPELLHOFPLATZ

FRIESENPLATZ Pullman Hotel

R N R IN

G

Rennaissance

ZO L L E

BREITE STRAS SE

SS E

P.62

HOME 4711

HOHEN

E HR EN ST RA

P.62

AACHENER STR. MOLTKESTR.

Barcelo Hotel H A HNE

P.64

NSTR

ST. APOSTELN CHURCH

P.64

A SSE

NEUMARKT

RUDOLFPLATZ

NEUM

RICHARD-WAG NER-STRASSE

ARKT

Hopper Et Cetera Hotel Esplanade

HOH

RA

MAURITIUSKIRCHE

SS

Hotel im Wasserturm

ENR

ST

F TA U

ON

ENS

RO

ING

E

ZÜLPICHER PLATZ

Place Of Interest

U-Bahn

Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall

Train Station

POSTSTR.

Hotel

S H O P | 59

Hotel Domspatz

Savoy ST. URSULA CHURCH

Grand City Hotel

Marriot

Hotel Ludwig

A U E R- U F E R

Domspitzen Excelsior Hotel DOM/HBF.

COLOGNE CATHEDRAL

P.60

TRADE FAIR

COLOGNE PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA

Le Meridien Dom Hotel

Hotel Mondial am Dom

Eden Hotel P.63

RTL

D -A DEN

Best Western Grand City Köln

Hilton Central

KO N R A

Lindner Residence Hotel

Breslauer Hof

COLOGNE MAIN STATION

HOHENZOLLERN BRIDGE Hotel An der Philharmonie

Hotel Callas GROSS ST. MARTIN CHURCH

Hotel Königshof

P.65

P.61

CM City Class Hotel Cipriani

DE U TZ ER

Hotel am Augustinerplatz Dorint am Heumarkt

AUGUST

DEUTZER FREIHEIT

A PEL A M L E YST

HOH E STR ASS E

CM City Class Residence Hotel

Hotel Sonata

Hotel Hyat Regency

CM City Class Hotel Europa

Senats Hotel

INES T R A S

SE

BR ÜC KE

DEUTZER BRIDGE

HEUMARKT

Maritim Hotel

MUSEUM LUDWIG WALLRAF-RICHARTZ MUSEUM SIEG B U R G ER ST R .

Hotel Mauritius Hotel Lyskirchen

LE

NB

AC H

Hotel Allegro

HOL Z

M

ÜH

MARK

T

Art'otel

Global Blue Refund Point: Reisebank AG inside Cologne’s main station

CHOCOLATE MUSEUM

GERMAN SPORT & OLYMPIA MUSEUM

SEVERINSBRÜCKE SEVERIN BRIDGE

60 | G U I D E

Cologne Philharmonie

PHOTO: KölnMuSIK GMBH

appealing to a broad range of musical tastes Cologne Philharmonie, the city’s celebrated concert hall, hosts a varied programme. From jazz sessions and symphonic performances to folk and pop events, concerts are almost daily, with many featuring pieces débuting in these impressive surroundings.

The hall’s design is inspired by the form of a classical amphitheatre and has a unique atmosphere. Be sure to catch a performance by one of the two resident orchestras – the gürzenich and the WDr Symphony.

Cologne Philharmonie, Bischofsgartenstrasse 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 204080, koelner-philharmonie.de

Am Hof, Wallrafplatz, Domkloster, Komödienstrasse & Bahnhofsvorplatz ENG GAS SE

VITO HERRENMODE ●

TRANKGASSE

COLOGNE CATHEDRAL COLOGNE PHILHARMONIE

● RIMOWA

AM HO F

H EN M

AC H ER

● BABYLON

R TA SC

LUD WIG STR A SSE

AS SE

MÜHLEN GASSE

SSE

SE

GR OS SE NE UG ● XIANG SHOP

ERG A

E

Place Of Interest

HOHE STRA SSE

TR ASS

SHOP Recommendation

HERZOGSTRASSE

T U NISS

Global Blue Retailer

SAL OM O N S GAS

BISCHOFSGARTENSTRA SSE

B ECH

UNTER GOLDSCHMIED

P.35

HR

E

KOELN SWEETHEART ● SOUVENIR SHOP I LOVE KÖLN / ● SOUVENIRS LINKE

TR AS SE

ROECKL ● ● NESPRESSO

● VICTORINOX

● BULGARI ● MEISSEN

● KITON

AU F DE R RU

RIC HA RT ZS

Roncalliplatz

● SWAROVSKI

Wallrafplatz AM HOF

U N TE

L AT Z

FP

GESCHENKE AM DOM ●

E

Domkloster

● AIGNER ● RÜSCHENBECK/ROLEX ● ZWILLING

RÖHRERGASSE

BRE IT E STR ASS

UER

GA SS

AM ALTEN UF ER

O

MA

KO S T

AM DOMHOF

LH

G BUR

R A SSE

EL

HEALTH & SCIENCE ●

4711 AM DOM ● MONTBLANC ● EYECATCHER ●

TU NISST

APP

A SSE

Taku

COLOGNE SOUVENIRS ● HERMÈS ● 4711 SHOP ● CHOPARD ● LOUIS VUITTON ● LACOSTE ●

A SSE

IENSTR

● DOUGLAS APOTHEKE DOM/KOSMETI K ● TIME SQUARE ● DOM APOTHEKE ● Bahnhofsvorplatz MILLENIA ● ABASONIC ● SOUVENIRS ● TIME SQUARE

P.34

KÖLN TOURIS MUS ● HEALTH AND UV EN IR SO BEAUT Y ● PO INT ● ● AN SO UV EN IR ● CH OC OL AD E SS OR IES ●

BA CH TEL AC CE

T U N I S S TR

KO M Ö D

VIS SE R GE RM

U N T E R S A CHSEN HAUSE N

LIN TGA SSE

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 61

Farina-hauS The city’s most famous export, eau de Cologne, was frst produced at Farinahaus some 300 years ago and its museum is a must-visit for fragrance enthusiasts.

Visitors will receive a comprehensive overview of the company’s history and will have the chance to meet fragrance experts and to visit the cellar where the frst perfume was created. a bottle of eau de Cologne, featuring the ofcial red tulip motif, would make an ideal souvenir.

Farina-Haus, obenmarspforten 21, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 399 8994, farina-haus.de

Hohe Strasse AM HOF

TA S C H EN M AC HE R

A LT E R MA RKT

Z

U N TER K Ä STER HEU MAR KT

STEINW EG

GÜRZENICHSTRASSE

BECHERG ASSE

UN TE R

Department Store

MA RS PL AT

MART INSTR ASSE

● JACOBI

● JOHANNES STERZENBACH

LIN TGA SSE

SE

Galeria Kaufof

RAS

SCH ILDE RGA SSE

MÜHLE NGASSE

R ST

C&A ● TELEFONICA GMBH / O2 ●

A RK T

PF UH L

● S OLIVER ● MANGO ● SIDESTEP ● SNIPES ● VANS TEXTIL ● TEZENIS ● COTTON ONE ● LEGO ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● BOSE P.62 ● WEMPE ● FLIRT FASHION ● SCHIESSER ● DEPOT QUA T ER M

PE RL EN

HOHE STRAS SE

B A C H P L AT Z

APRIORI BIBA SATURN TISSOT

HALLHUBER ● PANDORA ● SCHUHHAUS KÄMPGEN ● REVIEW ● CÖLN - CARRE ● ESPRIT EDC ●

AM HOF

B ÜR GE

E

HERZOGSTRASSE

OFFEN

SELECTED STORES IN GALERIA KAUFHOF:

GROSSE BUDENGASSE

● RAPHAEL SCHUHMODE ● YVES ROCHER ● R & C MÜLLER ● THE BODY SHOP ● WMF ● ZARA ● BIJOU BRIGITTE ● PIMKIE ● INTIMISSIMI ● KONPLOTT ● INTIMISSIMI ● ADIDAS NEO ● BIBA ● COOLWAY VANS ● ● H&M MEN ● SNIPES FARINA-HAUS ● FLORMAR ● CHRIST P.36 UNTER GOLDSCHMIED

L UDW IGST RASS

ACCESSORIZE ● PROMOD ● VERO MODA ● JACK & JONES ● REVIEW ● H&M ● NEW YORKER ● ● BOGNER CLAIRES ● SWATCH ● RIGBY & PELLER ● LUSH ● CLARKS ● BRÜ CK E GÖRTZ17 ● NST RAS HUNKEMÖLLER ● SE OLYMP & HADES/ QUARTIER 99 ● J.H. BECKER ●

P.32 ● ROECKL ● ESPRIT ● SIX ● TAMARIS ● TALLY WEIJL ● CALZEDONIA ● BIBA ● H&M UNDERWEAR ● DOUGLAS P.32 ● FOSSIL ● PYLONES ● KIKO

UNTER GOLDSCHMIED

MINORITENSTRASS E

HOHE STRAS SE

GA SS E

T U N IS ST R A S S E

DR US US

GAMESTOP ● THOMAS SABO ● HÖGL ● TOM TAILOR ● GEOX ● FASHION CLUB ● MEDIA MARKT ● VERO MODA ● JACK & JONES ●

APOSTELNSTR ASSE

● FO SS IL G ● MU STAN17 ● GÖ RT Z ● ES PR IT ● H& M DY SH OP ● TH E BO A ● ES TE LL ● CA MP ER ● GU ES S LIG IO N ● TR UE RE ● CO S CO RN ER ● YE LL OWLA NO ● MI NI MI

P.24

E

ST

RA

SS

E

BEN ESIS STR ASS

● DA NI EL SEL LE ● CO CC IN ● SIS LE Y

E IL

T U NISST R A SSE

HERZO GSTRA SSE

FÜM ERI E

LU NG ● BU CH HA ND ● HE R KÖ NI G S S E WA LT MA N ● TR A BE N SH ER LU ● U S S P.36 ERT MA ALB ● DO UG LA S ZA RA ● AN OU K ● OE S ● SA CH A SH NATU RE ● BE AU TY & RE ● JU ST NATU MA C ● HY LO MO GR AP ● OR E GA LL ER Y ST RR Y ● FR ED PE

PARFÜMER IE ● P MÖLTGEN ● CROCS ● SIDESTEP ● DIESEL ● CRUMPLER ● OPTIK-OBE RLÄNDER ● CLOSED

PF

● GO LDKOPF PAR

GÜ LS

BOC H ● VIL LER OY &

● JUW ELI ER P. ● DO UG LAS

SE

JOST ●

NWAL

TZ

R A SSE ● T U NISST PH EBI NG HAU S RAL IE ● LO EW E GA LER ER BRI LLE N ● P.34 AUG END ÜBL FHO LD ● JUW ELI ER KAU BRE E ● CH ● VIL LER OY & BO ● ULL A POP KEN ECC O ●

ERM AN N ●

SGAS

SSE

BLUTGESCHWISTER ●

SNIPES ●

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

AS SE

EHRE NSTR AS SE

EH RE NS TR

IKKS ● AMER ICAN APPA REL● LEVI’ S ● VIBE S ● PEPE JEAN S ● ADID AS ● REPL AY ● GAS ● ENER GIE ●

SE

RAS

MST

PA L

OPT IK SIM ON ● K R EB

RICHMO DSTRAS SE

● HANSEN FORM + DESIGN

Karstadt ● GEOX ● LEDERWAREN TONINO ● THE NORTH FACE ● MAMMUT ● CAYUNA

P.34

A P O ST ELN STR .

● BENCH ● BARBOU R

SCHILDERGAS SE

RKT

M AG N USSTR A

● WEINGARTE N

The diverse yet universally high-quality range of timepieces and jewellery available from Wempe has helped the company to become one of Germany’s most prestigious brands. The label was established in 1878 and since then has cultivated a distinct collection of exquisite timepieces and standout jewellery. every piece makes use of the fnest materials, such as diamonds, pearls and gemstones while the store’s own timepiece collection is complemented by a range of watches by leading international brands including Cartier, Breitling, Rolex and Longines.

Wempe, Hohe Strasse 66, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 0440, wempe.com

SELECTED STORES IN OPERN PASSAGEN:

BER NH ARD OFF

SSE

GR AV IS ●

TR A

Ehrenstrasse Wempe

NEVEN-DU MONT-STR ASSE

AUF DEM BERLICH

JUWELIER ZIEGLER ● 4 EYES ● LACHMAYR SCHUHHAUS ● HOFJUWELIER GADEBUSCH ●

USS

SHOP Recommendation

Department Store

Global Blue Retailer

STRAUSS INNOVATION ●

ERT

MITTELSTRASSE

BREI TE STR AS SE B REIT E STRA SSE

BUSCHMANN OPTIK ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ● HEUBEL COLLECTION ●

ALB

● RADIUS CALIDA ●

MA N EU

4711 BOSE JANSSEN RASIERERSERVICE KRASS OPTIK SOVRANO THOMAS SABO

● MIA ROMA

MARC O'POLO ●

SCHWALBENGASSE

Opern Passagen

AS SE EH RE NS TR

DuMont-Carré

LA

FP

APPELLHO

SE

AS

STR US

GN MA

BIRKENSTOCK BONPRIX CAMEL ACTIVE

AM RÖMERTURM

SELECTED STORES IN DUMONT-CARRÉ :

SSE NSTRA GEREO

AU ER BURGM

ETERNA KULT J.P. GÖRGENS MAX KÜHL PLANET PROMARKT RUNNERS POINT TRASSE FRIESENS

FR IE SE

62 | G U I D E

Breite Strasse & Apostelnstrasse

S H O P | 63

Minoritenstrasse & Gürzenichstrasse

SE NE UG AS GR OS SE T

● BLATZHEIM ● TEDDY-KINDERMADEN

● TH.THIEMEYER

HA

Z

AU G

HE

H EUM AR KT

GÜRZENIC HSTRASS E ● BUTLERS

G AT

SE

SE

GEORG STRATHMANN ● DAMENMODE MIA ●

AUGUSTINER APOTHEKE ●

SE

STEINW EG

AS

MARTIN STRAS SE

RG

MA RS PL AT

GÜLICHPLATZ

DE

HOHE STRASSE

KT A

UGAS

GAS

SE

ODLO ●

HIL

KE NS TR AS

MARSPFOR TENGASSE

SC

● FÜLLFEDER-ZENTRALE

SAN

SE NE

BRÜ C HOHE STRASSE

AN

SE

GROS

● BANG & OLUFSEN

LU DWIGSTR ASSE

ST RA SS E

UNTER GOLDSCHMIED

● MUJI

● MUSIKHAUS TONGER

E

KRONENGASSE

GRO SSE NEU GAS

MÜHLENGASSE

● MAHI DEGENRING

SCH ILDE RGA SSE

SCHILDERGASSE

CÄ CIL IEN

● DM

L U DW IG STR ASS

HERZOGSTRASSE

T U N ISST R A SSE

● MAX MARA ● DANIELS & KORFF ● APOLLO-O PTIK ● BOGNER ● TOUS ● SCHUHHAU S HERKENRATH ● FRANZ SAUER ● MANUFAKTUM

AS SE

MIN O RIT ENST R A SSE

● MEPHISTO ● RALPH EBINGHAU S

GL OC KE NG

E

AM HO F

LIN

HR

T U N ISST R A S SE

AU F DE R RU

BRE ITE STR ASS

ARA ● JACK WOLFSKIN ●

A N D ER R ECHTSCHUL E

RÖHRERGASSE

UST

INE

STR

PI

UM

ARK

T

.

N PI

ST

RA

SS

E

RaLpH eBinGHauS Since opening in 1975, Ralph ebinghaus has built its reputation on stocking only the highest quality italian-made menswear.

There are items to suit every occasion, from smart businesswear and occasionwear to relaxed leisurewear. The selection is extensive and includes a number of lines from ermenegildo Zegna. Take advantage of Ralph ebinghaus’s meticulous approach to customer service; talented stylists are on hand to make sartorial suggestions and encourage you to experiment with new looks.

Ralph Ebinghaus, Glockengasse 2a, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 257 7390, ebinghaus-koeln.de

64 | G U I D E

Neumarkt, Richmodstrasse & Zeppelinstrasse

Neumarkt Passage

● TCHIBO

SE

SCHILDERGASSE

● G-STAR ● CHARLOTTE EHINGERKRONENGASSE SCHWARZ ● DANIELS ● BRIGITTE VON BOCH CÄ CI LI

EN ST R

AS S E

LIZ WEINMANN PALMERS LEJABY RE:STORE REFORMHAUS BACHER SOVRANO TCHIBO ZERO PRIMARK

PIP IN S TR

AS SE

-STRA SS E LE ON H ARD -TIETZ SE

Mittelstrasse PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● ALESSI ● WUNDERHAUS ● MARC CAIN ●

FR IE SE

● LA BELLE

GROSSE BRINKGASSE

MITTELSTRASSE

E

BELLYBUTTON EMANUEL BERG BCBGMAXAZRIA BASLER PERMANENT KONPLOTT BRILLEN HALLERBACH

● RPEAT ● AUBADE ● LAUREL ● APROPOS THE CONCEPT STORE ● GUCCI ● 7FAM ● WOLFORD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EVELYN BRAND BERLIN ● PALMERS LEJABY ● ZARA HOME ● LUMAS ● COMMA P.65 ● GOLDSCHMIEDE BÖCKING

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

BEN ESIS STR ASS

STEFANEL● AIGNER ● NAVYBOOT ● LACOSTE ●

APOSTELNSTR ASSE

LOUD ● ROSA ● SEEBERGER & SCHNEIDER ●

MITTELSTRASSE

AS SE

GERRY WEBER ● P.82 BERGHOFF JEWELLERS ● BORGARDS ● LLOYD ● SCHUHHAUS SCHWAEPPE ● BUTSCHEID ● SØR ● STRENESSE ●

EH RE NS TR

CLAUDIA CARPENDALE ● MARINA RINALDI ● ELSWEILER + TEMME ● SPERA ●

BROOKER SCHUHHANDEL ● ONKEL BILL KINDERLADEN ● HAWES & CURTIS ● DON’S MEN’S SHOP ●

NWAL L

ING

N E U KÖ L L N E R S T R A S S E

NR

R GASSE

FE

APOTHEKE AM NEUMARKT ELÉGANCE ES SIEMENS JUWELIER GANT GOLDKOPF PARFÜMERIE HALLHUBER HM EN GE

U TA

Schokoladenmuseum is dedicated to one of Germany’s most popular products, chocolate, and illustrates the rich history of the cocoa bean – from its uses in aztec and mayan culture to the present day.

The museum has welcomed more than 11 million visitors since it opened. an array of exhibits chronicles the development of chocolate and the museum also hosts tasting seminars and exhibitions.

Schokoladenmuseum, am Schokoladenmuseum 1a, 50678 cologne, +49 (0)221 931 8880, schokoladenmuseum.de

Department Store

STR A S

TUNIS

STIFT + PAPIER STEIFF

Appelrathcüpper

SELECTED STORES IN NEUMARKT GALERIE:

SchokoladenmuSeum

SHOP Recommendation

SELECTED STORES IN NEUMARKT PASSAGE:

● MORE & MORE

FL EI SC

NS

WORMS ● WÄSCHEFACHGESC HÄFT

ARKT

AS BAYA RD SG

Global Blue Retailer

SGA S

● GÖRTZ ● ERICH ORTLOFF

MAYERSCHE ● BUCHHANDLUNG ● TK MAXX

NE

Karstadt

Neumarkt Galerie

AR K T UM

NEUM

CLEMENSSTRASSE

HE

MAUR ITIUSS TEINW EG

HO

● MARTIN SCHIFFGEN

S

AF CH A

T RA SS E ENS

SE

P.37

FOTO GREGOR ● RASIERER STAHLWAREN JANSSEN ● HAHNENSTRASSE

● GLOBE-TROTTER

THIE BOL DGA SSE

MITTELSTRASSE

AS SE

KOLUMBASTRASSE

AS

SE

LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ●

GL OC KE NG

ZE PP EL INS T R.

APOSTELNST R

GERTRU DENSTR ASSE

GROSSE BRINKGAS SE

HABITAT ● PETIT BATEAU ● DANIELS ● SCHMUCKGALERIE MOMMEN ● ROSENTHAL ● THALIA-BUCHHANDLUNG ● BERTRAM & FRANK HERRENMODEN ●

PINOCCHIO KINDERMODEN ● JUWELIER ANTONIO M.KRINGS ● JACK WOLFSKIN ●

E

KR EB

AS SE

RICHM ODST R.

EH RE NS TR

BRE ITE STR ASS

BREITE STRASSE

BR EITE STRASSE

HAHNENST RASSE

SCH

Shopping Centre/Mall

● LA LUNA

AAFE NST RAS SE

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 65

Schildergasse MINORITENSTRASS E

AS SE

LUDWIGSTRASSE

Galeria Kaufof

PIP IN ST RA

SS E

SELECTED STORES IN PEEK & CLOPPENBURG:

GÜ R

ZEN

I CHSTR A SSE

HOHE STRASSE

t

STER

FLEISCHM EN GE RG

Ka rst ad t Sp or

● ES PR IT

● DO UG LA S ● GU ES S FIG ER ● TO MM Y HIL HU HE ● RO LA ND -SC

NKLO

THIE BOL DGA SSE

OT S ● BU FFAL O BO BO NI TA ● ER ● NE W YO RK M ● H& S OL IV ER ●

P.33

WO RM LAN D ●

● SPO RT- SCH ECK GH OFF ● JUW ELI ER BER BER SHK A ● ● JUW ELI ER DEI TER GIN A TRI COT ●

P.37

IE CÄCIL

LEDERWAREN VOEGELS ● TZ-STRASSE LEONHARD-TIE

T U NIS

E

C& A ●

ST RA SS

Peek & Cloppenburg

HIRMER ●

CÄ CIL IEN

SC HIL DE RG AS SE

ST ● JEA NS -PA LA ● ZE RO S T R A S S E

● VODAFONE

● SWAROVSKI ● MARC O’POLO ● ORSAY ● DEICHMANN ● BONITA ● KRAEMER ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● ANSON’S ● JUWELIER RÜSCHENBEC K

● GERRY WEBER

A R KT

● DESIGUAL ● HALLHUBER ● CHRIST

N EU M

SCHILDERGASSE

KOLUMBASTRASSE

KREB

CKE NST RAS SE

T U N ISSTR A SSE

.

NEUM AR KT

SCHUHHAUS KÄMPGEN ● FOOT LOCKER ● TALLY WEIJL ● PLANET ● KULT ● FIELMANN ● ADIDAS ● PROMOD ● APOLLO OPTIK ● RAPHAEL SCHUHMODE ● BIBA ● HUMANIC ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● H&M ● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR ● WMF ● CAMP DAVID ●

SCHUHHAUSK ÄMPGEN ● ZARA ●

Z EPP ELIN STR

RICHMO DSTR.

Appelrathcüpper

● BOGNER

BRÜ

GROSSE SANDKAUL

SGA S

SE

GLOCKENGA SSE

HOHE STRASSE

E

HOHE STRASSE

B R EITE STR ASS

BREITE STRASSE

SELECTED STORES IN GALERIA KAUfhOf: SATURN

25 SUNCLASS MANGO STERNENGASSE

With three lines, comma ofers a diverse range of good-quality clothing. The company’s core range embodies modern elegance, with a versatile mixture of business outfts, standout occasionwear and coordinating accessories. Those looking for something more relaxed will appreciate the casual collection, while the designer choice range provides a touch of exclusivity through the use of high-end materials and meticulous attention to detail.

Comma, mittelstrasse 19, 50672 cologne, +49 (0)221 2725 5940, comma-store.de

PHOTO: FRank WIDeMann

comma

66 | G U I D E

Designer Outlet Roermond How To GET THERE By car from cologne take either the a57 towards Düsseldorf/Nimegen or the a61 towards Venlo until these cross the a52. from there, take the a52 towards Roermond.

Designer Outlet Roermond, Stadsweide 2, 6041 TD Roermond, +31 (0)475 351777, designer-outlet-roermond.com

By train

Opening times Monday – Sunday: 10am-8pm

PERfEcT Day

7pm Dine at Asia Cocos where Thai, chinese and Vietnamese foods all feature on the menu.

Designer outlet Roermond is just 10 minutes’ walk from Roermond central Station. when you leave the station, cross Stationsplein and follow the signs to Designer outlet Roermond. for train times and ticket prices, please visit bahn.com

By shuttle bus 10am Begin the day by embracing nautical styling at Dutch casual clothing label Gaastra.

5pm True Religion jeans refect the quintessential americana look with a rebellious edge.

12pm Take time out to pick up an on-trend, technologically advanced digital watch from Seiko.

globalblue.com

3pm Embrace Swedish style and a calm colour scheme at Filippa K.

Take advantage of the shuttle bus service, which departs from the main bus station (opposite the train station) in cologne. for details, visit designer-outletroermond.com

S H O P | 67

Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when you’re on the go 1

2

1. Regional Tourist Ofce Cologne Tourist Board, Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430, cologne-tourism.com 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000

3

4

EMERGENCY SERVICES Emergency: 112 (ambulance and fre); 110 (police) Doctor: +49 (0)116117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 (0)116116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards) USEFUL PHRASES

3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets go to kvb-koeln.de or scan the QR code

Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte

5

6

I would like... ∙ Ich möchte...

Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...?

Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben?

INSIDER TIP For the latest information on attraction opening times and special events when you’re on the move, head to the ofcial tourism mobile website koelntourismus.mobi

PHOTO: German naTiOnal TOurisT BOard/TOrsTen KrüGer

4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information 5. Taxi To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de 6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com

DID YOU KNOW ...?

Cologne Cathedral took 632 years to build; work began in 1248 and wasn’t completed until 1880

68 | G U I D E

Eat, See, Do

Cologne Tourist Board is the ofcial tourism marketing organisation for the city of Cologne and is the frst port of call for people from all over the world, whether business or leisure visitors.

Cologne Tourist Board, Kardinal-Höfner-Platz 1, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 346430, cologne-tourism.com

Eat

Do

Rheinauhafen, the historic dockland area of Cologne, has an attractive promenade with an international feel, adding a modern edge to the oldest metropolis in Germany. The dockland quarter is fast becoming a hub of creativity and at its centre is the spectacular Kranhäuser.

In Cologne’s Belgian Quarter, a growing number of young designers is setting up in small, individually designed boutiques, where they are free to sell more unusual fashion and accessories. Stop at one of the city’s cosy cafés, bars or restaurants after visiting the shops.

See Aiming to be a museum of refection, the strikingly modern Kolumba art museum exhibits sacred art alongside contemporary works. The building, by renowned architect Peter Zumthor, is an attraction in itself.

Kolumba, Kolumbastrasse 4, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 933 1930, kolumba.de

Above (Do): boutique Frau Kaiser, Cologne; Magasin Populaire, Cologne

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIgHT): © KOELn TOuRISMuS gMbH/AndREAS MöLTgEn FOTOgRAFIE; © KOELn TOuRISMuS gMbH/AndREAS MöLTgEn FOTOgRAFIE; HéLènE bInET/WWW.FARbAnALySE.dE; TObIAS KRuSE

If you only have a short time to spend in Cologne, the city’s Tourist Board has three top recommendations for you

the official Cologne Fanshop at Cologne Tourist Board

KölnTourismus . Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1 . 50667 Köln . koelntourismus.de

70 | S H O P

Cologne Bonn Airport After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Cologne Bonn Airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts, unique souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t be able to fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase.

Mexx

Esprit

Before heading of, be sure to schedule in a stop at Cologne Bonn’s Mexx boutique.

The label prides itself on creating collections that suit the cosmopolitan environment while an overriding smartcasual aesthetic makes its pieces ideal for everyday wear. The store has items for the whole family.

Stocking clothing which is ideal for long-haul travel, Esprit specialises in efortlessly casual pieces, infused with Californian sunshine. The range is flled with high-quality items that are made to last, featuring laid-back tailoring and handcrafted details that will work equally well in any destination.

Rendezvous Piano Bar If you have time to spare before boarding, relax at the Rendezvous Piano Bar. It has a lounge-like feel with a comfortable, inviting atmosphere, enhanced by the accompanying discreet piano music.

globalblue.com

71

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks.

Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

76 / 79 79

/

79

72

Refund Locations Cologne Bonn Airport

M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside), M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside)

In bookshop Kirschner Gates B

I Ki n bo rs o ch ks ne ho r p

Terminal 1 Gates D

Departure

Terminal 2 Arrival

Departure

Arrival

D端sseldorf Airport

Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1 (beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters)

Gates B

Gates A

Gates C

Key

Refund location details: Partner Refund point

Global Blue Customer Services

Landside

Tax Free Mailbox

Check-In Area

Airside

Security Control

Customs stamp

Cologne Bonn Airport M. Kirschner, Terminal 1 (B/C), Departures (airside) M. Kirschner, Terminal 2 (D), Departures (airside) Downtown Cologne Reisebank inside the main station D端sseldorf Airport Service Center, Terminal A, Terminal Ring 1 (beside customs ofce/close to Lufhansa ticket counters Downtown D端sseldorf Global Blue, Vogelsanger Weg 38

globalblue.com

73

Translations Русский ПеРевод 38: Bright And Bold

Яркие и смелые

Ведущие немецкие бренды решили покончить с минимализмом и увлеклись насыщенными цветами и смелыми принтами, рассказывает Доминик Фенн Немецких модельеров всегда отличало стремление к простому стилю, классическому крою, элегантным скульптурным силуэтам и чистым линиям. Минимализм достиг своего пика в 1990-х годах, и на протяжении последних нескольких сезонов его влияние в модной индустрии было весьма заметно. И все же, многие бренды, долгое время придерживавшиеся сдержанного стиля, поддались общей тенденции и рискнули обогатить свои коллекции сезона весна-лето 2014 яркими цветами и смелыми принтами. Бесспорная королева сдержанности Джил Сандер вернулась на пост креативного директора своего бренда сразу после ухода Рафа Симонса. Во время показов на Миланской Неделе моды весеннелетняя коллекция бренда не выходила за рамки оттенков черного, белого и серого, за исключением нескольких ярких и красочных образов, вдохновленных работами итальянского художника-концептуалиста Алигьеро Боэтти. В 2009 году бренд Escada приобрела Мегха Миттал – мать двух девочек, которой довольно часто приходится путешествовать. Она во многом похожа на поклонниц своего бренда, и ее руководство приносит много интересных результатов. В 2012 году Миттал пригласила на роль креативного директора Даниэля Вингейта, задачей которого было модернизировать бренд, сохранив при этом истинный образ Escada. По мнению критиков, ему удалось заметно освежить коллекции. Многие ключевые образы обрели простоту, globalblue.com

появились строгие костюмы и вернулись яркие краски, преобладавшие в ранних коллекциях Escada. Яркий пример – красивое вечернее платье в пол, украшенное перьями, из коллекции осень-зима 2013. Отдельная заслуга Вингейта лежит в создании чувства эскапизма при помощи смелых принтов. В коллекции весна-лето 2014 превалируют анималистичные принты, а также графические узоры в виде цветов и экзотических фруктов. Сюда вошли пышные платья, костюмы и вечерние наряды. Классические коллекции марки Boss обрели новый вид, на создание которого вдохновило стилистическое мастерство художников-сюрреалистов. Привычная чистота линий, элегантность кроя и сдержанная детализация подверглись небольшому пересмотру. В этом сезоне бренд экспериментирует с аллюзиями и парадоксальным сочетанием форм, подражая таким мастерам сюрреализма, как Ман Рэй и Рене Магритт. Подобно тому, как сюрреалисты отвергали всяческие границы, так и Boss выходит за рамки привычных форм со своей коллекцией повседневной и вечерней одежды. Вырез двубортного пиджака, например, напоминает вырез повседневного пальто. Цветочные узоры на платьях выглядят так, словно их нарисовали от руки; цветовая гамма довольно сдержанная – от бирюзового до серого, чтобы не отвлекать внимание от дизайна. История немецкой моды уходит корнями в глубокую древность. Более 700 лет назад один из жителей Германии явил миру то, что принято считать первым модным каталогом. Бухгалтер Маттеус Шварц, родившийся в Аугсбурге в 1497 году, прославился тем, что нанял специального художника, обязанностью которого было детально фиксировать все наряды Шварца, начиная с 23 до 63 лет. Созданный альбом остается одним из самых уникальных документов в истории моды.

74

«В те далекие времена так же, как и сейчас, люди использовали одежду, чтобы выражать свои взгляды и эмоции», – поясняет проф. Улинка Рублэк, автор книги «Культурная идентичность в Европе эпохи Возрождения». По ее мнению, даже тогда одежда передавала фантазии, стремления и тревоги, поэтому Шварц всегда стремился использовать новые аксессуары, ткани или наряды оригинального кроя. Наступивший 2014 год ознаменовал новый этап немецкой моды, характерный обилием смелых принтов, ярких красок и необычных форм. jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com 44: Going For Gold

Золото Рейна

Немецкая марка модной одежды Gerry Weber на протяжении многих десятилетий удерживает лидирующие позиции в своей области. Салли Макэлхон рассказывает о планах бренда на будущее За какие-то четыре десятилетия компании Gerry Weber удалось запустить пять различных брендов женской одежды и открыть 850 новых магазинов в 60-ти странах мира. И это если считать только линию одежды. Сегодня Gerry Weber – мультибрендовая компания, владеющая стадионом на 13 000 мест, полем для гольфа и конгресс-центром; на случай приема важных гостей в компании даже имеется собственный отель «Sportpark» в Дюссельдорфе. Кто бы мог подумать, что история этого крупнейшего в Германии ритейл-гиганта началась со скромного производства женских брюк. Не желая почивать на лаврах, компания продолжает непрерывно работать над интересными проектами, и вот нас уже ждет новая весенне-летняя коллекция 2014. Руководитель отдела розничной торговли Gerry Weber и потомок основателя Ральф Вебер нашел свободную минуту в своем плотном графике и согласился обсудить секреты популярности бренда. Компания была основана в 1973 году Удо Хардиком и Герхардом Вебером, которые с globalblue.com

самого начала стремились связать воедино моду и образ жизни. Последние 40 лет Gerry Weber, занимает среднюю ценовую категорию на рынке, предлагая стильную женскую одежду по ценам более доступным, чем дизайнерские коллекции, но в то же время более качественную по сравнению с недорогими марками. «Продукция брендов Gerry Weber отвечает самым высоким стандартам качества и комфорта, и поэтому является хорошей альтернативой премиумклассу. Кроме того, каждое направление бренда имеет свою целевую группу», – говорит Ральф Вебер. Именно такой децентрализованный подход послужил основой для открытия пяти успешных направлений, способных удовлетворить широкий круг потребностей современных женщин. Сюда входят: основная линия одежды Gerry Weber, линия повседневной одежды Gerry Weber Edition, одежда больших размеров – Samoon by Gerry Weber, а также линии GW и Taifun для стильной молодежной аудитории. В отличие от большинства успешных немецких брендов, штаб-квартира Gerry Weber располагается не в шумном мегаполисе Берлина, а в Халле (Вестфален), в двух часах езды от Дюссельдорфа и Кельна. Все ключевые отделы компании сосредоточены в одном месте, что значительно повышает эффективность работы. «Отделы продаж и розничной торговли, а также дизайнерскоконструкторский отдел находятся под одной крышей», – поясняет Ральф Вебер. «Мы построили современный офисный комплекс, который значительно оптимизирует процесс сотрудничества, обеспечивая благоприятную творческую атмосферу». Здесь же в Халле расположился масштабный комплекс Gerry Weber World, включающий стадион Gerry Weber, отель Sportpark и поле для гольфа, насчитывающее 27 лунок. По мнению компании, это «целая вселенная модных брендов». Кроме того, начиная с 1993 года, Gerry Weber проводит теннисный турнир Gerry Weber Open, идея создания которого принадлежит Ральфу Веберу. «Это единственный немецкий теннисный

75

турнир АТР с участием звезд спорта и шоубизнеса. Его освещение в средствах массовой информации распространяется на 120 стран мира», – говорит Ральф. «Данный турнир говорит не только о широком признании компании Gerry Weber, но и придает ей космополитический образ». Еще одним фактором, обеспечившим популярность Gerry Weber, было открытие выставочных залов Halle 29 и Halle 30 на окраине Дюссельдорфа. Каждый новый сезон сюда съезжаются байеры из разных стран мира в поисках новых коллекций. «Инвестируя в эти выставочные площадки, мы хотим показать, что Дюссельдорф является центром моды. С каждым годом все больше покупателей посещают наши мероприятия и делают заказы. У нас очень много покупателей из России, стран Ближнего Востока, Азии, Канады и Европы». Ральф Вебер, ответственный за «глобализацию» бренда, расширил присутствие Gerry Weber еще на семь стран. «После того, как нам удалось удвоить количество магазинов в Германии и Австрии, мы решили сосредоточиться на расширении нашей розничной сети в других европейских странах», – говорит он. Это в первую очередь коснется таких стран, как Чехия, Словакия, Польша и Швеция; новые магазины откроются также в Праге и Стокгольме. «Выход на международный рынок становится для нас все более актуальным, поэтому мы намерены значительно расширить нашу внешнеэкономическую деятельность», заключает он. Так, постепенно Gerry Weber заявляет о своем видении моды всему миру от Торонто до Таллина. gerryweber.com 50: Perfect Pieces

Модный Синтез

Всемирно известный немецкий производитель фарфора Meissen решил попробовать свои силы на модном подиуме, – выяснила Изабелла Редмонд Стайлз Что общего между модой и фарфором? Этот вопрос мог бы озадачить кого угодно, но

только не компанию Meissen. Основанная в 1710 году немецкая фабрика была первым производителем фарфора в Европе. Вот уже 300 лет подряд здесь создаются изделия, имеющие немало схожих черт с коллекциями знаменитых парижских кутюрье – такой же высокий уровень качества, эстетики и кропотливой ручной работы. Вполне ожидаемым шагом для Meissen стал запуск в этом сезоне новой линии одежды от кутюр, которая гармонично дополнила уже имеющиеся коллекции фарфора, ювелирных изделий и декоративной посуды. На ее создание большое влияние оказала история самого бренда. Фабрика была основана по приказу Августа Сильного, курфюрста Саксонии и короля Польши в немецком городке Мейсен, неподалеку от крепости Альбрехтсбург. С самых первых дней здесь было открыто производство высококачественного фарфора из лучшего глиняного сырья – каолина или белой глины, месторождение которой находилось прямо на территории фабрики Meissen. Фирменный подход к производству товаров отличается кропотливостью и большой преданностью делу: процесс обработки сырья может занимать несколько месяцев, и каждый этап производства находится под непрестанным контролем. Более того, все художники и дизайнеры Meissen проходят обязательный трехгодичный тренинг, чтобы соответствовать высоким стандартам компании. Неудивительно, что бренд уже давно стал гарантом качества, стиля и вечных ценностей. На протяжении своей многовековой истории компания не переставала развиваться, запуская новые разноплановые коллекции. Продолжая следовать своим устоявшимся традициям производства фарфора, бренд выпустил эксклюзивные коллекции керамических статуэток «Fine Art» и «ArtCampus», в число которых вошли единичные экземпляры, созданные в сотрудничестве с рядом современных художников. Богатое прошлое бренда вдохновило дизайнеров на создание целой серии изделий, включая Meissen Joaillerie, – линию элегантных часов и

76

ювелирных украшений, Meissen Home и Meissen Home Deco, – коллекции мебели, посуды и предметов интерьера. Также фабрика продолжает предоставлять эксклюзивную услугу Meissen Individuell, подразумевающую производство изделий по индивидуальным заказам. Среди основных клиентов – члены королевских семей и многие знаменитости. Последние, несомненно, будут в восторге от новой коллекции одежды от кутюр, которая была впервые представлена в сентябре 2013 года во время Миланской Недели моды. Генеральный директор Meissen Кристиан Курцке и Франка Соццани, главный редактор журнала Vogue Italia, пригласили на показ множество гостей, включая журналистов, байеров и VIP-персон. В коллекцию, созданную под руководством креативного директора Meissen Фриды Веер, вошли 17 образов. Основными мотивами для их создания послужили чертежи и наброски, взятые из архивов бренда. Оригинальные и, в то же время, классические наряды, рожденные талантом дизайнеров Meissen, покоряют своими деталями и отражают философию компании. В коллекцию вошли вечерние, свадебные и коктейльные платья, которые Веер описала как «классически элегантные, женственные, романтические и роскошные». Любой наряд из дебютной коллекции будет идеально смотреться как на официальном торжестве, так и на свадебной вечеринке. При помощи органзы и сверкающего шелка Веер создала драматические силуэты, дополнив их современными цветочными узорами и замысловатым кружевом. Трехмерные цветочные узоры, появившиеся на нескольких нарядах коллекции, могут показаться данью современности, однако, на самом деле, свое начало они берут из шинуазри и цветочных аппликаций, созданных брендом в период с 18 по 20 век. Декоративные узоры из жемчуга и кристаллов демонстрируют высокий уровень мастерства и внимания к деталям, свойственный многим знаменитым домам моды. Изюминками коллекции можно назвать яркие платья Cecilia и Sissi globalblue.com

из шелковой органзы, которые мы скоро, возможно, увидим на одной из первых леди. Генеральный директор Meissen Кристиан Курцке позитивно смотрит на будущее бренда. «Наша главная цель сейчас – наладить хорошие связи с главными закупщиками самых роскошных универмагов мира, чтобы наши поклонники как можно скорее смогли получить доступ к новой линии одежды». К счастью, для Meissen это не будет сложной задачей, учитывая успех платьев Chloe и Rosy. В то же время дизайн платьев Grace и Olivia, украшенных мириадами вышитых вручную цветов, указывает на то, что Meissen настроен довольно решительно и дебютировавшая коллекция от кутюр будет далеко не последняя, и, следовательно, парижским модельерам есть о чем беспокоиться. meissen.com 71 : When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста,

77

примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. 美文翻译

38: Bright And Bold 光明前景 一些德国领先的时装品牌正远离极简主义，开始拥 抱色彩与印花，Dominique Fenn报道

被认为史上第一本时装书。Matthäus Schwarz是 一位1497年生于奥格斯堡的会计。他受一名艺人所 托，记录其从 23岁到63岁的着装细节。这本记录仍 旧是时装史上最独特的文献之一。 期的文化认同》的作者Ulinka Ruback 表示。 她解释道，即便在当年，服装也表达了幻想、知趣与 忧虑。所以Schwarz喜欢这些新配饰、材料与剪裁 所带来的可能性。 将目光转回 2 014 年，德国时尚正 携印花、色 彩——以及无比热情，进入一个新纪元。 jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com

44: Going For Gold 德国时装设计师们向来被视为先锋时尚的表率，专 注于塑造极简、优雅的廓型与干净的线条。 这种极简主义在1990 年代达到高峰，此后的几 季中这些主题被不断重新演绎，然而许多曾高举低 调美学旗帜的领导品牌，在 2014 年春/夏开始引入 活泼印花与大胆色彩。 无可争议的极简女王Jil Sander，在缺席三个季 度后随着Raf Simon的离开，重回同名品牌。在品牌 的米兰时装周发布上，春/夏主色调依旧是黑白灰， 然而有几个造型都受意大利概念艺术家 Alighiero Boetti启发，使用了喷薄而出的色彩与印花， Escada在2009年被 Megha Mittal收购。作为 经常旅行的母亲，设计师本身就是品牌所试图装扮 的女性；所以她的影响力正孕育着有趣的成果。 在2012年，Mittal请来Daniel Wingate，帮助 Escada在忠于品牌历史的同时变得更现代化。批评 家们赞扬新的创意总监为系列带来新鲜感；他简化 了主要造型，并引入了精干的西装与职业装，同时召 回了Escada早期设计中的奢华感觉，例如2013秋/ 冬系列中镶满羽毛的华丽长晚礼服。 通 过大胆印花营造出脱离尘世的感觉，也是 W i n g ate 所擅长的。在 2 014 春/夏季节，动物印 花——像是斑马条纹与长颈鹿斑点——与爆炸几何 花卉以及菠萝图案同场出现。这个系列包括蓬蓬裙， 西装裤以及晚礼服等。 Boss则借鉴超现实主义艺术运动风格，为经典 作品赋予新生。这个以简洁线条、正统剪裁与充满 灵气与巧妙的细节著称的品牌，开始在标准造型上 做文章。这一季品牌以幻想为主题，向Man Ray与 René Magritte等伟大的超现实主义艺术家致敬。 正如超现实主义者拒绝被限制，品牌的新系列同样 超越陈规，将休闲装与晚装的界限模糊。譬如，双排 扣羊毛西装的领口开始模仿休闲外套的设计。无袖 连衣裙上被放大的玫瑰图案宛若手绘，并且用色节 制——从粉蓝色到灰色——从而避免干扰设计。 德国与创意时尚的关系，可以追溯得比多数人 以为的更久远。700多年前，正是一位德国人创作出

勇攀高峰 德国时装品牌label Gerry Weber成为业内领导者已 有数十载。Sally McIlhone带您一探品牌的未来发 展计划 在过去四十年里，Gerry Weber已经推出了五个女 装品牌，并开设了850 余家门店；在如此成功的运作 下，品牌已经遍布全世界 60 多个国家。但那仅仅是 这家德国公司的时尚分支。Gerry Weber作为触及 全方位生活方式的企业，还拥有并运营着一座拥有 13,000个座位的体育场，一座高尔夫球场，甚至还有 一家会议中心；公司还在杜塞尔多夫建有专为精英顾 客服务的Sportpark酒店。这座影响深远的21世纪零 售帝国，与Gerry Weber创业时女裤制造商的谦卑 地位，已然相去甚远。 但是 Gerry Weber从未固步自封，在 2014 年 春/ 夏 发布会上，品牌 有 望 更 上一层 楼 — —如此 惊人的发展轨 迹，使其成为最引人关注的德国品 牌。Ralph Weber创始人的后代，现今零售部门的总 经理Gerry Weber在百忙之中抽出时间与我们探讨 品牌成功的秘诀。 由Udo Hardieck 以及与品牌同名的Gerhard Weber在1973年创立，品牌从创立初始就试图将时 尚与生活方式融合。过去40 年中，Gerry Weber始 终专攻中档价位女装市场，提供相较设计师品牌更 实惠的价格，相较高街品牌更上乘的品质。 “所有 Gerry Weber旗下的品牌，都定位于高端人群，为其 带来高质量标准与完美剪裁。但是家族中的每个品 牌又有各自清晰的目标群体， ”Ralph Weber 表示。 正是这种因人而异的手法使品牌成功建立了五个成 功的子品牌，吸引了一大批来自不同阶层的当代女 性消费者——包括Gerry Weber主线, 休闲装品牌 Gerry Weber Edition, 为丰满女性准备的 Samoon by Gerry Weber, 还有专为更年轻、更 具时尚敏锐度的群体准备的GW与Taifun系列。 不同于多数具有国际影响力的德国品

78

牌，Gerry Weber没有将总部设在炫目大都会柏林， 而是选址离开杜塞尔多夫与科隆两小时路程的哈勒 （北威州）。为提高创意效率，所有品牌的关键部门 都集中在同一中心位置。 “销售、零售、印花、设计与 生产部门都在同一屋檐下， ”Ralph Weber 解释道， “我们为员工们打造的现代化综合设施，创造出开放 与充满启发性的环境，来帮助他们增进合作与激发 创意火花。 涵盖Gerry Weber 体育场，Sportpark酒店与 一座 27洞高尔夫球场的Gerry Weber World，同 样也位于哈勒（北威州）。据公司所称，这些都是“ 围绕时尚品牌打造的世界”。此外，自1993 年以来 Gerry Weber 还每年举办Gerry Weber网球公开 赛，该赛事完全是由品牌主创并运营的。 “这是德国 唯一的ATP草地网球赛，汇集了体育与娱乐明星。媒 体曝光率覆盖120 个国家， ”Ralph 表示。 “这项 赛事不仅提升了Gerry Weber 集团的知名度，还为 旗下品牌树立起世界性的形象。 ” 另一项帮助 Gerry Weber 建立全球声誉的措 施，就是位于杜塞尔多夫外围的Halle 29与Halle 30 展厅的开幕。这两座巨大空间在每个季度都会吸引 国际买家，前往参观Gerry Weber的全线系列。 “通 过投资建立这两座展厅，我们将杜塞尔多夫贴上时 尚中心的标记。每年都有越来越多的海外客户参加 展会，并向我们订货。我们有来自俄罗斯、中东、远 东、加拿大与欧洲的顾客。” 肩负将品牌全球化职责的Ralph Weber，通过 创新理念帮助Gerry Weber充实壮大，在全球开拓 出诸多新疆域。 “在成功将品牌门店数量翻了一翻 后，特别是在德国与奥地利，我们现在专注于在其他 欧洲国家扩张零售规模， ”他解释。这一扩张将会包括 捷克、斯洛伐克、波兰与瑞典；品牌将会在布拉格与 斯德哥尔摩等地设立门店。 “我们日益将自己视为放眼全球、将在世界舞台 上更为活跃的国际性企业， ”他总结道。 从多伦多到塔林，Gerry Weber的时尚愿景，就 是让全世界都了解自己。 gerryweber.com

50: Perfect Pieces 绝美瓷章 你或许不曾想到德国瓷器品牌Meissen居然将产品 延伸到了时装。Isabella Redmond Styles给我们带 来了这样大开眼界的调研结果 大概你会惊诧于瓷器和女装成衣之间的联系是否 会如此明显，但对Meissen而言，两者关联却如此清 晰。作为欧洲第一家瓷器生产厂家，成立于1710年的 这家德国公司拥有300余年的不朽声誉，以其精湛品 globalblue.com

质，细致做工和永恒风格称誉于世间。这所有的特 质，与巴黎最负盛名的时装品牌亦一脉相承。作为德 国顶级奢侈品牌，Meissen在瓷器艺术品，珠宝首饰 以及家居产品中独占鳌头。本季推出的女装成衣，便 是公司继往开来，独步创新的尝试。 时装产品线自然倚靠于该品牌的辉煌悠久历 史。Meissen的故事遥远而显赫。应奥古斯大帝，选 帝侯萨克森和波兰王子之请，Meissen 最初创建于 德国雄浑宏大的Albrechtsburg 城堡中。公司自成 立以来，一直致力于生产最优质的产品，使用最好 的原料。工厂甚至拥有珍贵的高岭土（中国粘土） 用以制作精美瓷器。迈森的制造工艺称得上是敬业 与勤勉，精细化作业过程往往需要持续几个月的时 间，每个流程皆历经严格认证监督管理。更重要的 是，Meissen的画家和制瓷者需要至少经历三年培训 （甚至远远长于三年），方能达到Meissen精致手工 制作的标准。难怪该品牌的质量精良、款式优雅、价 值这般持久恒长。 纵观其三个世纪的发展，该公司一直以来致力于 扩大其业务范畴，持续推出不同种类却异常成功的 产品线。除却传统瓷器的制作，独特精美的限量版瓷 器收藏摆件是Mesissen的明星产品。Art Campus 系列是与当代艺术家合作的摆件，满溢着现代风 格。Meissen Joaillerie 系列拥有最为丰厚历史沉 淀，长期以来给珠宝手表设计以无限闪耀灵感。此 外，Meissen Home 和 Meissen Home Deco 系列 的家具，家居用品以及装饰摆件皆深得其传承精髓。 该品牌还向来为皇室和贵族提供高端定制服务。 Meissen 的皇室贵客们对新推出的成衣品牌 也 报以厚 望。此次 时装 发布会在 米兰 2 013 九月 时装周上亮相，秀场布置在优雅秀美的深深庭院 内。Meissen 的 CEO Christian Kurtzke 携手 Vogue 意大利主编 Franca Sozzani 共同主持了 这 次 发布会。秀 场 嘉 宾云 集，记 者、买 手与众多 贵宾对 Meissen 充满期冀。以公司悠久历史为图 景，Meissen首席服装设计师 Frida Weyer 设计了 17件华服，每件皆向Meissen丰厚的历史致意。作品 独创而不失经典，拥有精美细节并反映 Meissen 悠 久的工艺。此系列涵括晚礼服、婚纱以及鸡尾酒礼 服。Weyer 描述他的作品为“永恒的优雅，妩媚，优 雅，以及浪漫繁茂的奢华。”任何一件服饰都与优雅 宴会与浪漫婚礼相得益彰。Weyer 使用高档丝织品 和闪光绸缎，裁出充满戏剧感的剪影。他还采用现代 花卉刺绣和精细错综的蕾丝点缀，让华服绚丽夺目 推陈出新。 细节设计也令人叹为观止，你或许觉得三维立体 的花卉刺绣是现代技术的表达，却不晓得这些设计 根植于Meissen 18世纪的中国风以及雪花贴花技术 中，19 世纪以及20 世纪的花卉设计也为此提供了灵 感来源。珍珠与水晶在设计中的繁盛展示了Meissen

79

对于艺术性的追求，不觉让众多老牌时装品牌脊背 一凛。Cecilia 和Sissi 丝绸长袍，是此次设计中最为 夺目的单品，可预期让某位第一夫人倾倒众生。 CEO Christian Kurtzke 解释道： “我们现在 的目标是进一步增强我们品牌与顶级奢侈品百货公 司的接触，并且进一步将我们的品牌推向世界。” 他对Meissen的未来充满了期待，幸运之处在于，这 种雄心终将得以实现，好比Chloe and Rosy的浪漫 时装吸引了全世界买手的注意，Grace and Olivia时 装数以百计的3D蕾丝植物彰显了复杂工艺的力量。 这些品牌的成功都意味着Meissen将会在时装领域 异军突起，巴黎的时装设计师总有一日将不可小觑此 品牌。 meissen.com

71: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 (Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程： 1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请 他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服 柜台领取您的退税款。 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退 税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。

日本語翻訳 71: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に

ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に なります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認 印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーのカス タマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5 ％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額 は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し 引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。 なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付の場 所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固定の 追加手数料をとられる場合があります。

When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 71 ‫ تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬،‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‬ Tax ‫ خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬Global Blue ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو‬ ‫ متجر ف أبرز مناطق‬270,000 ‫ لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬Free .‫التس ّوق حول العال‬ ‫ مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬26 ‫تنضم إل الـ‬ ّ ‫فل َم ل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ّ Global Blue ‫غلوبل بلو‬ .‫ وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‬Global Blue ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫ تس ّوق‬.1 ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫ أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬،‫أينم تس ّوقت‬ ّ .‫ وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‬Global Blue ‫ أطلب‬.2 ‫ أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة‬،‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‬ .‫الخاصة بنا‬ ‫عل إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب خدمة الزبائن‬ ّ :‫للتّصال‬ taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

‫ يشمل‬.‫ من ثن مشتياتك‬14.5% ‫ وادّخر حتّى‬€25 ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره‬ ‫مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة‬ .‫ناقص رسم إداري‬

‫‪80‬‬

‫الختصة بالزياء”‪ .‬بالضافة إل ذلك ومنذ سنة ‪ ،1993‬تدير علمة جيي وبر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Gerry Weber‬دورة جيي وبر الفتوحة ‪Gerry Weber Open‬‬ ‫لكرة الضب التي أطلقها وأدارها رالف وبر ‪ .Ralph Weber‬يقول وبر‬ ‫‪ Weber‬ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬إنّها دورة كرة الضب اللانيّة الوحيدة التي تشمل‬ ‫نجوماً من مجال الرياضة والتفيه‪ .‬تلقى تغطية إعلميّة ف ‪ 120‬بلد‪ .‬ل تساهم‬ ‫ف زيادة شهرة مجموعة جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber‬فحسب‪ ،‬بل تنح العلمة‬ ‫هويّة متعدّدة الثقافات‪”.‬‬ ‫عززت هويّة جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber‬التعدّدة‬ ‫من العوامل الخرى التي ّ‬ ‫الثقافات‪ ،‬افتتاح صالتي عرض هال ‪ Halle 29‬وهال ‪ Halle 30‬ف ضواحي‬ ‫دوسلدورف ‪ .Düsseldorf‬تجذب هاتان الساحتان الشاسعتان الشتين من‬ ‫حول العال ليتفقّدوا مجموعات جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber‬الكاملة ّ‬ ‫كل موسم‪.‬‬ ‫“يشي استثمرنا ف صالتي العرض هذه إل أ ّن دوسلدورف ‪ Düsseldorf‬مركز‬ ‫أزياء‪ .‬يزداد كل سنة عدد الزبائن من خارج ألانيا الذين يحضون مناسباتنا ويطلبون‬ ‫تصاميمنا‪ .‬لدينا زبائن من روسيا والشق الوسط والشق الدن وكندا وأوروبا‪”.‬‬ ‫يتو ّل رالف وبر ‪ Ralph Weber‬مسؤوليّة “تدويل” العلمة التجاريّة‬ ‫وقد ساهمت أفكاره البتكرة ف رفع شأن جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber‬التي‬ ‫تنطلق حاليّاً ف عدّة مدن جديدة حول العال‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الطار‪“ :‬بعد أن ضاعفنا‬ ‫التوسع ف بلدان أوروب ّية‬ ‫بنجاح عدد متاجرنا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وبخاص ة ف ألانيا والنمسا‪،‬نركّز الن عل ّ‬ ‫التوسع الجمهوريّة الشيكيّة وسلوفاكيا وبولندا والسويد؛‬ ‫أخرى”‪ .‬ستشمل عمليّة ّ‬ ‫ستفتح التاجر ف براغ وستوكهول وغيها‪.‬‬ ‫وسنوسع نشاطاتنا العاليّة‬ ‫يختم حديثه قائلً‪“ :‬نرى أنفسنا نلعب دورا ً عاليّاً أكث فأكث‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بشكلٍ ملحوظ‪”.‬‬ ‫من تورونتو إل تالي ‪ ،Tallin‬تثبت رؤية جيي وبر ‪Gerry Weber‬‬ ‫للسلوب نفسها حول العال‪.‬‬

‫‪gerryweber.com‬‬

‫‪Perfect Pieces: 50‬‬ ‫قط ٌع مميّزة‬ ‫والختصة بالخزف‬ ‫العلمة التجاريّة اللانيّة الشهورة عاليّاً مايسن ‪Meissen‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫منصات عرض الزياء‪ .‬تحقّق إيزابيل ريدموند ستايلز ‪Isabella‬‬ ‫تصف انتباهها إل ّ‬ ‫‪ Redmond Styles‬بالوضوع‬ ‫قد ل تبدو الصلة واضحة بي الخزف والزياء لكن ث ّة ارتباط وثيق بينهم بالنسبة‬ ‫تأسست هذه الشكة اللانيّة سنة ‪ 1710‬وشكّلت أ ّول‬ ‫إل مايسن ‪ّ .Meissen‬‬ ‫مصنع للخزف ف أوروبا‪ .‬ف رصيدها اليوم ‪ 300‬سنة من اللتزام بالجودة المتازة‬ ‫واليد العاملة الاهرة والسلوب الذي ل يفنى‪ ،‬وهي خصائص تتمتّع بها أيضاً أرقى دور‬ ‫الزياء الباريسيّة‪ .‬لذا يأت خ ّط اللبس الجديد الذي تطلقة مايسن ‪Meissen‬‬ ‫هذا الوسم كتط ّور طبيعي ج ّدا ً لدى أحد أكث دور الفخامة رق ّياً ف ألانيا والذي‬ ‫يبتكر مجموعات من الخزف والجوهرات الثمينة ومستلزمات النزل‪.‬‬ ‫يستفيد خ ّط الزياء إل ح ّد كبي من تاريخ العلمة التجاريّة الذائع الصيت‪.‬‬ ‫تأسست مايسن ‪ Meissen‬بطلب من أغسطس الجبّار‪ ،‬أمي ساكسونيا الناخب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Elector Prince of Saxon‬وملك بولندا‪ ،‬ف قص ألبشتسبورغ‬ ‫‪ Alberschtsburg‬الرائع ف قرية ألانيّة تحمل إسم العلمة‪ .‬منذ تأسيسها‪،‬‬ ‫اشتهرت مايسن ‪ Meissen‬بابتكار أجود النتجات من أفضل الواد الخام‪،‬‬ ‫حتّى أنّه ف مصنع مايسن ‪ Meissen‬مقلع خاص يُستخرج منه الطي الصيني‬ ‫خاصة‬ ‫الستخدم لصناعة الخزف‪ .‬تعتمد مايسن ‪ Meissen‬ف صناعتها مقاربة ّ‬ ‫كل‬ ‫ودقيقة وتستغرق مرحلة تنقية الواد شهورا ً عدّة ف حي يت ّمالشاف بعناية عل ّ‬ ‫الرسامون والص ّممون لدى مايسن‬ ‫مرحلة من عمل ّية النتاج‪ .‬بالضافة إل ذلك‪ ،‬يخضع ّ‬ ‫القل (ويتد ّرب الكثي لفتة أطول من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Meissen‬إل تدريب لثلثة سنوات عل‬ ‫ليتوصلوا إل الستوى الذي تتطلّبه قطع مايسن ‪ Meissen‬الشغولة‬ ‫ذلك بكثي)‬ ‫ّ‬

‫يدويّاً وبدقّة‪ .‬لذا‪ ،‬ل عجب أن تتمتّع العلمة التجاريّة بالجودة والسلوب والقيمة منذ‬ ‫سنوات عديدة‪.‬‬ ‫ف خلل القرون الثلثة التي م ّرت بها الشكة‪ ،‬استم ّرت بتوسيع نطاقها فأطلقت خطوطاً‬ ‫مختلفة لكن ناجحة‪ .‬مع الحافظة عل تراث صناعة الخزف التاريخي‪ ،‬تبتكر الشكة‬ ‫مجموعة ف ّن جميل ‪ Fine Art‬حصيّة وهي عبارة عن شخص ّيات مصنوعة من‬ ‫الخزف وبكميّة محدودة بالضافة إل مجموعة أرتكامبوس ‪ArtCampus‬‬ ‫التي تشمل قطعاً فريدة من نوعها مصنوعة بالتعاون مع ف ّناني معاصين‪ .‬أ ّما خط‬ ‫مجوهرات مايسن ‪ Meissen Joaillerie‬فمستوحى أيضاً من تاريخ الشكة‬ ‫العريق ويتض ّمن مجموعة مرغوبة من الجوهرات والساعات كم هو حال خطّي‬ ‫مايسن هوم ‪ Meissen Home‬ومايسن هوم ديكو ‪Meissen Home‬‬ ‫‪ Deco‬اللّذين يشملن أثاثاً وأغراضاً للمنزل وأدوات للمئدة وقطعاً للزينة‪ .‬وما‬ ‫زالت العلمة تقدّم للعائلت الالكة والشخصيّات الرموقة خدمة البتكار بحسب‬ ‫الطلب مايسن إنديفيدويل ‪.Meissen Individuell‬‬ ‫ل ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن زبائن مايسن ‪ Meissen‬اللوكيي سيفرحون بإطلق مجموعة الزياء‬ ‫التي ُعرضت ف أسبوع ميلنو للموضة ف أيلول‪/‬سبتمب ‪ 2013‬ف محيط فيل مايسن‬ ‫‪ Villa Meissen‬ف ميلنو‪ .‬ر ّحب الدير التنفيذي لايسن ‪Meissen‬‬ ‫كريستيان كورتزك ‪ Christian Kurtzke‬ورئيسة تحرير مجلّة فوغ إيطاليا‬ ‫‪ Vogue Italia‬فرانكا سوزان ‪ Franca Sozzani‬بحشد من الضيوف‬ ‫تض ّمن صحاف ّيي ومشتين وشخص ّيارت بارزة حضوا العرض‪ .‬استفادت فريدا‬ ‫فاير ‪ ،Frida Weyer‬رئيسة قسم تصميم الزياء لدى مايسن ‪Meissen‬‬ ‫من تاريخ الشكة وابتكرت ‪ 17‬تصميمً مقتبساً من رسومات وتاثيل من أرشيف‬ ‫مايسن ‪ .Meissen‬فأتت كل قطعة فريدة لكن كلسيكيّة؛ أظهرت موهبة الدار‬ ‫ف الدقّة الم ّيزة وسلّطت الضوء عل تاريخ الحرف ّية الطويل الذي تتمتّع به مايسن‬ ‫‪ .Meissen‬تتألّف الجموعة من أثواب طويلة للسهرة وفساتي أعراس وأثواب‬ ‫قصية وتصفها فاير ‪ Weyer‬بـ "النيقة دوماً والنثويّة والجميلة مع نفحة فخامة‬ ‫رومانسيّة"‪ .‬تجدر الشارة إل أنّه يكن ارتداء أي قطعة من الجموعة لحضور حفل‬ ‫اللمع‬ ‫عشاء رسمي أو زفاف‪ .‬استخدمت فاير ‪ Weyer‬أورغنزا الحرير والحرير ّ‬ ‫لتبتكر تصاميم دراماتيكيّة ولّدت تألّقاً جميلً نتيجة تطعيمها بالتطريز برسم الزهور‬ ‫والقمشة الخ ّرمة الرائعة‪.‬‬ ‫قد تبدو الجموعة عصيّة بالكامل نتيجة بعض التفاصيل عل سبيل التطريز الثلث‬ ‫البعاد برسم الزهور الذي يظهر عل عدّة قطع لك ّنها ف الواقع متجذّرة ف الف ّن الصيني‬ ‫من القرن الثامن عش والتزيي الرقعي بالزهور البيضاء بالضافة إل تصاميم الشكة‬ ‫العتمدة عل الزهور من القرني التاسع عش والعشين‪ .‬يعكس الستخدام الوافر‬ ‫لللئ والكريستال مستوى الف ّن التوقّع من مايسن ‪ Meissen‬وتنافس العناية‬ ‫بالتفاصيل التي يعتمدها الكثي من دور الزياء العريقة‪ .‬وتتم ّيز الجموعة بأثواب‬ ‫سيسيليا ‪ Cecilia‬وسيس ‪ Sissi‬الحي ّوية من أورغنزا الحرير التي من التوقّع أن‬ ‫تظهر بها قريباً س ّيدة أول أو أكث‪.‬‬ ‫يشح الدير التنفيذي كريستيان كورتزك ‪ Christian Kurtzke‬عن تطلّع‬ ‫مايسن ‪ Meissen‬إل الستقبل فيقول‪" :‬نهدف حال ّياً إل تكثيف علقاتنا الدول ّية‬ ‫لنصل إل أبرز مشتي التاجر الكبى الفاخرة ونط ّور عمليّة توزيع علمتنا التجاريّة‬ ‫الجديدة حول العال‪ ".‬لتحقيق ذلك‪ ،‬من حسن حظّنا أ ّن الرومانس ّية العصيّة التي‬ ‫تتمتّع بها فساتي كلوي وروزي ‪ Chloe and Rosy‬ستجذب الشتين ف‬ ‫شتّى بقاع الدنيا ف حي تظهر عقل ّية مايسن ‪ Meissen‬التجاريّة ف مجموعات‬ ‫الزياء من خلل الحرفيّة التفصيليّة الستخدمة ف أثواب غرايس وأوليفيا ‪Grace‬‬ ‫‪ and Olivia‬التي تشمل مئات الزهار والوراق الثلث ّية البعاد الط ّرزة يدويّاً‬ ‫والقصوصة بتقنيّة الليزر‪ .‬لذا من الحرى بدور الزياء الباريسيّة أن تتوخّى الحذر‪.‬‬ ‫‪meissen.com‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪81‬‬

‫ةّيبرعلا ةغللاب ةمجرت‬

‫‪Bright And Bold: 38‬‬ ‫تصاميم زاهية وجريئة‬ ‫البسط‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تتخل بعض العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة الرائدة ف مجال الزياء عن السلوب ّ‬ ‫لتلجأ إل اللوان والنقوش‪ ،‬تقرير دومينيك في ‪Dominique Fenn‬‬ ‫القصات‬ ‫البسط لفت ٍة طويلة مركّزين عل ّ‬ ‫اعتمد مص ّممو الزياء اللان السلوب ّ‬ ‫والتصاميم النيقة والخطوط النظيفة‪.‬‬ ‫البسط أوجه ف التسعينات وبالرغم من ظهوره مجدّدا ً ف بعض الواسم‬ ‫بلغ السلوب ّ‬ ‫الاضية‪ ،‬لجأت الكثي من العلمات التجاريّة التي اعتمدته كأسلوب أساس إل استخدام‬ ‫النقوش الحيويّة واللوان الجريئة لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪.2014‬‬ ‫عادت ملكة البساطة جيل ساندر ‪ Jil Sander‬إل علمتها التجاريّة التي تحمل‬ ‫إسمها لثلثة مواسم قصية بعد رحيل راف سايونز ‪ .’Raf Simons‬عندما‬ ‫ُعرضت العلمة ف أسبوع ميلنو للموضة‪ ،‬كانت اللوان الستخدمة للربيع‪/‬الصيف‬ ‫السود والبيض والرمادي بالرغم من وجود عدّة تصاميم مفعمة باللوان والنقوش‪،‬‬ ‫مستوحاة من عمل الف ّنان اليطال الفاهيمي أليغييو بويتي ‪Alighiero‬‬ ‫‪.Boetti‬‬ ‫اشتت ميغا ميتل ‪ Megha Mittal‬علمة إسكادا ‪ Escada‬سنة ‪.2009‬‬ ‫وبا أنّها أ ّم كثية السفار عل غرار الرأة العصيّة التي تستهدفها العلمة التجاريّة‪ ،‬تجد‬ ‫تصاميمها مثية للهتمم‪.‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،2012‬ض ّمت ميتل ‪ Mittal‬إل عائلة إسكادا ‪ Escada‬الص ّمم دانيال‬ ‫ونغايت ‪ Daniel Wingate‬ليمنحها لسة عصيّة مع الحافظة عل إرث‬ ‫العلمة التجاريّة‪ .‬أشاد النقّاد بدير قسم التصميم الجديد لضفائه روح النضارة عل‬ ‫بسط التصاميم الساس ّية وأدخل بدلت وقطعاً مهندمة مع استجاع جزء‬ ‫الجموعات؛ ّ‬ ‫من أسلوب الزخرفة الذي تتّعت به تصاميم إسكادا ‪ Escada‬السابقة عل سبيل‬ ‫فساتي السهرة الطويلة الجميلة الط ّعمة بالريش لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪.2013‬‬ ‫يبع ونغايت ‪ Wingate‬ف توليد شعور بالته ّرب مع استخدام نقوش جريئة‪ .‬ف‬ ‫مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2014‬تبز النقوش الحيوان ّية – خطوط الحمر الوحش ورقع‬ ‫الزرافة – إل جانب رسومات أزهار وأناناس مضخّمة‪ .‬تشمل الجموعة أثواباً خفيفة‬ ‫وبدلت ساويل وأثواب سهرة‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما علمة بوس ‪ ،Boss‬فاستحدثت قطعاً كلسيكيّة مستوحي ًة من السلوب الف ّني‬ ‫الذي ات ّسمت به حركة الف ّن السيال‪ .‬اشتهرت العلمة بخطوطها النظيفة وتصاميمها‬ ‫الذكيّة الميّزة بتفاصيلها الدقيقة وتلعبت بالشكال العياريّة‪ .‬أ ّما هذا الوسم‪ ،‬فتتلعب‬ ‫بالخدع البصيّة‪ ،‬تكرياً لكبار الف ّناني السياليي أمثال مان راي ‪ Man Ray‬ورنيه‬ ‫مغريت ‪ .René Magritte‬تاماً كم رفض السياليّون القيود‪ ،‬تتخطّى الجموعة‬ ‫الجديدة الحدود من خلل ملبس عمل ّية ورسم ّية‪ .‬عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬تقويرة العنق‬ ‫ف ستة صوفيّة مزدوجة الصدر هي نسخة عن تقويرة العنق ف معطف عمل‪ .‬كم‬ ‫تبدو براعم الورود الضخّمة عل ثوب إتوي ‪ etui‬مرسومة يدويّاً وتتد ّرج اللوان من‬ ‫الزرق الزاهي إل الرمادي – ك ل تسق أضواء التصاميم‪.‬‬ ‫تعود علقة ألانيا بالزياء البتكرة إل أبعد ما قد يتص ّوره أي إنسان‪ .‬منذ حوال ‪700‬‬ ‫رجل ألان ّأول كتاب لتصميم الزياء‪ .‬كان ماتهاوس شوارز ‪Matthäus‬‬ ‫سنة‪،‬ابتكر ٌ‬ ‫‪ Schwarz‬محاسباً‪ُ ،‬ولد ف أوغسبورغ ‪ Augsburg‬سنة ‪َ .1498‬وكّل ف ّناناً‬ ‫السجل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أن يس ّجل بالتفصيل ما كان يرتدي من عمر ‪ 23‬إل ‪ 63‬عاماً‪ .‬وما زال ذلك‬ ‫من أكث الوثائق فراد ًة ف تاريخ الزياء‪.‬‬ ‫تقول أولينكا روبلك ‪ Ulinka Rublack‬مؤلّفة كتاب “درسنغ أب‪ :‬كلتشورال‬ ‫أيدنتيتي إن رناسنس يوروب” ‪Dressing up: Cultural Identity‬‬ ‫‪“ :in Renaissance Europe‬ف الاض استخدم الناس اللبس للتعبي‬ ‫عبت اللبس عن‬ ‫عن قيم ومشاعر كم يفعلون اليوم”‪ .‬تشح أنّه حتّى ف الاض‪ّ ،‬‬

‫و”أحب شوارز ‪ Schwarz‬المكانيّات التوافرة” ف‬ ‫أهواء وتطلّعات وهموم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وقصات جديدة‪.‬‬ ‫أكسسوارات ومواد ّ‬ ‫بالعودة إل سنة ‪ ،2014‬يكن القول إ ّن الزياء اللانيّة تدخل فجرا ً جديدا ً من خلل‬ ‫نقوش وألوان وحيويّة‪.‬‬ ‫‪jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com‬‬

‫‪Going For Gold: 44‬‬ ‫السعي إل الفضل‬ ‫الختصة بالزياء رائدة‬ ‫العلمة التجاريّة اللان ّية جيي وبر ‪Gerry Weber‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تتقص سال مكيلهون ‪ Sally McIlhone‬عن خططها‬ ‫ف مجالها منذ عقود‪ّ .‬‬ ‫الستقبل ّية‬ ‫ف خلل أربعة عقود‪ ،‬أطلقت جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber‬خمس علمات‬ ‫تختص بلبس النساء وافتتحت ‪ 850‬متجرا ً؛ حقّقت نجاحات باهرة‬ ‫تجاريّة مختلفة ّ‬ ‫بكل هذه النجازات ف مجال‬ ‫وباتت موجودة ف أكث من ‪ 60‬بلدا ً حول العال‪ .‬قامت ّ‬ ‫الزياء‪ .‬أ ّما اليوم‪ ،‬فتمتلك وتدير هذه الشكة الخبية مد ّرجاً يحوي ‪ 13‬ألف مقعد‬ ‫وملعب غولف ومركزا ً للمناسبات والؤترات‪ ،‬كم تستضيف نخبة من الزبائن ف فندق‬ ‫سبورتبارك ‪ Sportpark‬ف دوسلدورف ‪ .Düsseldorf‬بالتال‪ ،‬تختلف‬ ‫هذه المباطوريّة العاصة الواسعة النتشار اختلفاً تا ّماً عن جيي وبر ‪Gerry‬‬ ‫‪ Weber‬الساس ّية صانعة الساويل النسائ ّية التواضعة‪.‬‬ ‫إل أنّه بدلً من التغ ّني بأمجادها‪ ،‬ق ّررت علمة جيي وبر ‪Gerry Weber‬‬ ‫بتوسع جديد – ونتيجة ازدهارها السيع‪ ،‬باتت العلمة‬ ‫لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ 2014‬أن تبدأ ّ‬ ‫خصص مدير‬ ‫التجاريّة اللانيّة الجديرة بالهتمم‪ .‬بال ّرغم من إنشغالته الكثية‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫الؤسسة رالف وبر ‪Ralph‬‬ ‫عام قسم البيعات لدى العلمة وأحد أفراد العائلة ّ‬ ‫‪ Weber‬وقتاً ليتحدّث عن نجاح العلمة‪.‬‬ ‫كل من أودو هارديك ‪ Udo Harievk‬وجيار وبر ‪Gerhard‬‬ ‫ّأسسها ّ‬ ‫‪ Weber‬سنة ‪ 1973‬وسعت إل دمج الوضة بأسلوب الحياة منذ بداياتها‪.‬‬ ‫التوسطة ف مجال اللبس النسائيّة ف الربعي سنة الاضية‬ ‫حافظت عل أسعارها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أقل من تلك التي تص ّممها دور أزياء كبية‬ ‫وباتت تبتكر أثواباً مرغوبة بأسعار ّ‬ ‫لكن بنوع ّية أفضل من تلك الوجودة ف معظم الحلت الرئيس ّية‪ .‬يقول رالف وبر‬ ‫‪“ :Ralph Weber‬تقع كل علمات جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber‬ف الوسط‬ ‫وقصات ممتازة‪ .‬لكن‬ ‫بي العلمات الرخيصة والفاخرة وتقدّم معاييا ً عالية الجودة ّ‬ ‫تستهدف كل علمة مجموعة معيّنة من الزبائن‪ ”.‬بفضل هذه القاربة الدروسة‪،‬‬ ‫ّأسست العلمة التجاريّة خمسة أسمء تجاريّة ناجحة لرضاء شيحة واسعة من النساء‬ ‫العاصات؛ خ ّط جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber‬الرئيس وعلمة جيي وبر إديشن‬ ‫‪ Gerry Weber Edition‬للملبس العمل ّية وعلمة سامون ‪Samoon‬‬ ‫للنساء المتلئات وخطّا ج‪.‬و‪ GW .‬وتايفون ‪ Taifun‬اللّذان يستهدفان شيحة‬ ‫أصغر س ّناً وأكث إلاماً بالوضة‪.‬‬ ‫عل عكس معظم العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة الناجحة عاليّاً‪ ،‬ل يقع مق ّر جيي وبر‬ ‫‪ Gerry Weber‬الرئيس ف العاصمة الكتظّة برلي‪ ،‬بل ف مدينة هال ‪Halle‬‬ ‫(وستفالن ‪ )Westfalen‬عل بعد ساعتي من دوسلدورف ‪Düsseldorf‬‬ ‫كل أقسام العلمة التجاريّة الساس ّية داخل مبنى‬ ‫وكولونيا ‪ .Cologne‬تجتمع ّ‬ ‫واحد‪ ،‬المر الذي يع ّزز الفعاليّة البتكاريّة‪ .‬يقول رالف وبر ‪Ralph Weber‬‬ ‫كل القسام‪ ،‬أي البيعات والبيع بالتجزئة والنقوش والتصميم‬ ‫ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬تجتمع ّ‬ ‫والنتاج تحت ٍ‬ ‫سقف واحد‪ .‬شيّدنا مبنى عصيّاً للموظّفي يع ّزز التعاون ف ما بينهم‬ ‫ويخلق تآزرا ً ف بيئ ٍة مفتوحة وابتكاريّة‪”.‬‬ ‫يكن أيضاً إيجاد عال جيي وبر ‪ Gerry Weber World‬ف هال ‪Halle‬‬ ‫(وستفالن ‪ )Westfalen‬مق ّر ملعب جيي وبر ‪Gerry Weber‬‬ ‫‪ Stadium‬وفندق سبورتبارك ‪ Sportpark‬وملعب غولف مؤلّف من‬ ‫‪ 27‬حفرة‪ .‬إنّه بالنسبة إل الشكة “عال كامل مرتبط بالعلمات التجاريّة‬

82

Postcard

Berghoff jewellers The family-run company Berghof jewellers was founded in 1896 and is now in the hands of the fourth generation. In 1958 heinz Berghof and his wife Anna took over the company, reinvigorating it with their entrepreneurial spirit and ensuring that the jewellers became a well-known name in Cologne. heinz and Anna’s sons have run the business since 1992.

Berghof originally specialised in exquisite gems globalblue.com

and, while the company still produces beautiful collections of fne jewellery, the brothers have introduced an impressive selection of timepieces to the store. whether you’re in search of a classic, traditionally made watch, the latest high-tech innovation or classic pieces, Berghof jewellers is the ultimate destination. irs Berghof Jewellers, schildergasse 44, 50667 Cologne, +49 (0)221 256607 * for map go to page 64

Swatch Store: Hohestrasse 105-107, 50667 Kรถln