SHOP Copenhagen SS14

FUSION COL L EC T ION AMAGERTORV 4 COPENHAGEN – COPENHAGEN AIRPORT – SØNDERGADE 1 AARHUS WWW.GEORGJENSEN.COM +45 70 12 34 20

Welcome to the Centre of Modern Design

Enter the department store Illums Bolighus and enjoy an exclusive world of quality and world-famous international and Danish design. On four foors of inspiring displays you will fnd only the very fnest in exquisite design, kitchenware, tableware, lamps, carpets, textiles, furniture and fashion.

10, AMAGERTORV 路 DK-1160 COPENHAGEN K PHONE +45 33 14 19 41 路 WWW.ILLUMSBOLIGHUS.COM

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen ILLUSTRATION: pAUL x jOhNSON

Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Welcome to Copenhagen

Руководство Германия Gothenburg

This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Copenhagen has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. We also discover Denmark’s thriving menswear scene (page 44) and Scandinavia’s pioneering eco-designers (page 50). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 41. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers

Vilnius

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Collage the Shop Illum Ground Floor Oestergade 52 Copenhagen C +45 3318 2788 www.collagetheshop.com

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Page 44 STAND TO ATTENTION Danish menswear takes centre stage

David Hellqvist Swedish-born David Hellqvist is the online editor at Port Magazine and editor of Varon Magazine. He also writes about fashion, lifestyle and culture for the Independent, Man About Town and T Magazine. In this edition of SHOP Copenhagen, he writes about Scandinavia’s pioneering eco-fashion businesses. globalblue.com

ILLUSTRATION: JAmeS GRAhAm

Contributors James Graham Illustrator James Graham created the cover for this season’s SHOP Copenhagen, inspired by our feature on Danish menswear on page 44. His simple, graphic style makes him a great choice for this edition’s cover, which shows a grid of well-dressed men standing to attention. James, who lives and works in both London and New York, has previously created artwork for Esquire magazine (UK), The New York Times and Stella McCartney, among others. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Harveen Ghattaure Harveen Ghattaure, who graduated in graphic design from the University of Derby, has been SHOP’s artworking assistant since 2011. When she’s not at work, she can often be found sweating it out in a Bikram yoga class or reading Batman comics. She adores British brand All Saints and wants to own her own stables one day.

S CA N D I N AV I A S LE A D I N G F U R & FA S H I O N H O U S E Prada Miu Miu Céline Valentino Saint Laurent Givenchy Moncler Lanvin

ØSTERGADE 38 . 1100 COPENHAGEN K DENMARK . T +45 33 11 55 55 . BIRGER-CHRISTENSEN.COM

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator James Graham Contributors David Hellqvist, Josie Thaddeus Johns Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shin Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto SHOP is published by Global Blue

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E DENM A R K Country manager Stine Juelner Marketing manager Kristina Vildal Hansen Marketing coordinator Eva Thorhallsdottir Sales manager Morten Winther Account managers Christian Mollerup Sorensen, Claus Nicolai Thygesen Service assistant Maria Brandt Ibing Global Blue Denmark, Overgaden oven Vandet 48E, DK-1415 Copenhagen K Distribution partners Wonderful Copenhagen Tourist Information Over 50 Copenhagen hotels Copenhagen Airport

Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

SCAN DINAVIAN DESI GN FOR EVERYONE

ecco.com

Repeat happiness daily

ECCO Store · Østergade 55 · Copenhagen · +45 3312 3511 ECCO Store · Østerbrogade 41 · Copenhagen OE · +45 3525 1818 ECCO Store · Copenhagen Airport Terminal 2 · Kastrup · +45 3231 4211 OPENING APRIL 2014 ECCO Store · Frederiksberggade 15 · Copenhagen

Contents p.26

p rO D u C t S 26 Check Out SHOp selects a standout piece from Copenhagen this season 28 My Favourites Designer Maxjenny Forslund reveals her top tips for spring/ summer 2014 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 36 Street Style Our pick of the best dressed at Copenhagen Fashion Week n EWS 38 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Copenhagen 40 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E at u r E S 44 Cover Story: Let’s Hear It For The Boys Denmark’s menswear is rapidly gaining a worldwide reputation. ruairidh pritchard discovers the secrets of this Copenhagen success story

50 Green Light Denmark and its Scandinavian neighbours are at the forefront of sustainable fashion. David Hellqvist meets some pioneering designers 58 Living Free Stephen Doig takes a stroll through the magical enclave of Christiania, Copenhagen’s unique ‘freetown’ E x pE r i E nCE 64 Raising The Bar Copenhagen’s cocktail bars ofer innovative menus, unique concepts and engaging atmospheres, says Verity Hogan 70 Stay In Style SHOp’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels 76 My Weekend SHOp shares the highlights of an indulgent short break in Copenhagen Gu i DE 79 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Copenhagen, plus SHOp’s unique view of the city’s sights

Above: Burberry's spring/summer Petal bag comes in a range of prety pastels

Skagen Denmark Concept Stores: StrĂ¸get, Vimmelskafet 42, CPH ILLUM, Ostergade 52, CPH Sondergade 42, Aarhus Sct. Laurentii vej 6, Skagen

www.skagen.com

Contents 94 My City Henning Kern of jewellery brand Dyrberg/Kern shares his Copenhagen recommendations

T R A N S L AT I O N S 99 Русский 105 中文 109 日本語翻訳 SOu v E N I R 114 The essential item to bring home

ESSENTIA LS 96 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping DESTINATION & buyINg guIDES

DAILy SHOppINg NEWS

Don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.

We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.

PHOTO: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

EN g L I S H | Р ус с к и й | 中文

FASHION WEEKS & STREET STyLE Follow us online for the latest from Europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show roundups and insider shopping guides.

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The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

WIN mONTHLy COmpETITIONS We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotel stays.

26 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

FLORAL FANTASY Burberry Prorsum’s spring/ summer collection is awash with soft pastels and feminine detailing, and these adorable foral clutches are set to be absolute musthaves. Soft and slouchy, they are artfully embellished with 3D fowers, one of the biggest trends of the season, and are as bright and summery as anyone could Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

wish. We’re particularly taken with these two, in rose pink and lavender, though the range is so vast and so lovely it’s hard to make a choice. As with everything from British heritage brand Burberry, the craftsmanship is exquisite, and the design guaranteed to give maximum impact. hl Burberry Petal bags, 8,500DKK each, Burberry, Østergade 21-23, 1101 Copenhagen, +45 3336 6896, burberry.com for map go to page 90

ØSTERGADE 26

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My Favourites: Maxjenny Forslund Maxjenny, an exciting young Danish label based in Copenhagen, produces colourful womenswear that focuses on innovation, wearability and function. Designer Maxjenny Forslund has won acclaim for her artistic prowess and her ability to translate this into the world of fashion. She shares a few of her favourite places in Copenhagen with Hannah Lewis maxjenny.com

1. ‘Eat lunch at Raw on Oehlenschlægersgade, it has a super-nice interior and fantastic food in a small and very personal place’

2. ‘Take your friends out for the night and start at Lidkøb, a great bar with an international atmosphere’

SimpleRaw, Oehlenschlægersgade 12, 1663 Copenhagen, +45 3535 3005, simpleraw.dk

Lidkøb, Vesterbrogade 72B, 1620 Copenhagen, +45 3311 2010, lidkoeb.dk

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

3. ‘I would love to buy more jewellery from EABurns. I love the style – it’s so rock ‘n’ roll!’ EABurns necklace, from 397DKK, Iko Iko, Blågårdsgade 31C, 2200 Copenhagen, +45 5282 4887, eaburns.com

S H O P | 29

4. ‘The Lêlê Street Kitchen on Vesterbrogade is a cool, graphic place and for Vietnamese street food it’s the best’ Lêlê Street Kitchen, Vesterbrogade 56, 1620 Copenhagen, +45 3322 7134, lele.dk

PHOTOS: (2) Neel MuNTHe-BruN; (5) ceeS vaN rOedeN

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5. ‘In the summer, fea markets in Copenhagen are simply the best way to discover great items’

Express the essence of you New bracelet and charms collection

Kinga Burza is one of eight ESSENCE COLLECTION ambassadors, representing JOY. Discover at Pandora.net Flagship Store: Amagertorv 18-20, Copenhagen Illum, Copenhagen . Fisketorvet, Copenhagen . CPH Airport, Kastrup

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PARALLEL LINES

Stylish, simple and superbly fattering, stripes are where it’s at this season 1

2. Weekday MTWTFSS vest, 500DKK, Weekday, Amagertorv 33, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3312 1512, weekday.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

3. Monki ring, 60DKK, Monki, Købmagergade 3, 1150 Copenhagen, +45 3312 8363, monki.com 4. By Malene Birger skirt, 3,499DKK, By Malene Birger, Antonigade 10, 1106 Copenhagen, +45 3543 2233, bymalenebirger.com

PHOTO: (4) STeen evald

1. Mulberry bag, 19,000DKK, Mulberry, Østergade 13, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3336 6878, mulberry.com

www.kaufmann.dk Str酶get 路 Nygade 2-4 路 Copenhagen

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ON SAFARI

1. Cos shorts, 390DKK, Cos, Østergade 33-35, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3697 8881, cosstores.com

3. Bang & Olufsen portable speaker, 5,495DKK, Bang & Olufsen, Østergade 18, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3311 1415, bang-olufsen.com

2. Louis Vuitton laptop sleeve, 5,150DKK, Louis Vuitton, Amagertorv 2, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3315 1022, louisvuitton.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

4. Bottega Veneta briefcase, price on request, Bottega Veneta, Ny Østergade 1, 1101 Copenhagen, +45 3336 6887, bottegaveneta.com

PHOTOS: (1) PackSHOTfacTOry; (2) LOUIS VUITTON/JEaN Marc cEDILE

Sand, tan and khaki are perfect for the urban jungle

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5. Triwa watch, 1,295DKK, Urban Room, Guldbergsgade 11, 2200 Copenhagen, +45 3512 1111, triwa.com 6. Sandqvist wallet, 499DKK, Flavour, Skindergade 19, 1159 Copenhagen, +45 3332 8583, sandqvist.net

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7. Acne jacket, 3,700DKK, Acne, Pilestræde 40, 1112 Copenhagen, +45 3393 0090, acnestudios.com 8. Gucci shoes, 3,895DKK, Gucci, Østergade 46, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3336 6883, gucci.com

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Street Style

VO U RI

PHOTOS: EMANUELE D’ANGELO/LC-JOURNAL.COM

SHOP

Staying true to the classic monochrome uniform, visitors to Copenhagen Fashion Week let their accessories take centre stage. We picked our best dressed and among them, we spotted Acne, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton handbags – luxurious and the perfect fnal touch to chic yet simple looks

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

S H O P | 37

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Shop Window

PERFECT STORM An essential stop for any in-theknow, design-conscious globetrotter, Copenhagen’s Storm concept store is renowned for its carefully curated selection of on-trend luxury goods and is the ideal spot to pick up a present. Storm has done all the hard work for you, presenting only the very best selection of the current trends. It’s surprising how much there is to discover in this small but delightful fashion and lifestyle store. Urban footwear Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

such as Adidas special editions, chic clothing from brands such as Céline and Peter Pilotto, cofeetable books, perfume, jewellery, headphones, even skateboards and artwork are all displayed in this airy space on the corner of Store Regnegade and Gammel Mønt. It’s very likely you’ll be tempted to make a purchase for yourself too. We defy anyone to visit and not fnd something they just can’t live without. gl Storm, Store Regnegade 1, 1110 Copenhagen, +45 3393 0014, stormfashion.dk * for map go to page 90

PROFESSIONAL AND CLASSIC CAMERAS

“We are suppliers of a broad range of quality cameras and accesories for both the professional and the demanding amateur photographer.”

Visit our shop in the center of Copenhagen, just close to “Strøget” and Jorcks Passage.

Skindergade 41 . 1159 Copenhagen K . TEL +45 33 14 12 15 WWW.PHOTOGRAFICA.COM . MAIL@PHOTOGRAFICA.COM

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LOCAL SECRET The past 20 years have seen womenswear brand Munthe, founded in Denmark in 1994, go from strength to strength. A strong favourite with Copenhagen natives, the label is loved for its clever blend of innovation and classic style. Inspired by her European travels, designer Naje Munthe takes inspiration from everything she sees, from art and literature to the changing Scandinavian seasons. The current collection uses bright prints to great efect, contrasting busy patterns with the clean, simple lines that Munthe has become known for. hl Munthe, Grønnegade 10, 1107 Copenhagen, +45 3332 0312, munthe.com * for map go to page 90

DANISH DESIGN Copenhagen designer Karsten Bach’s love of fashion dates back to his childhood days. Bach spent 20 years working for some of the city’s most renowned labels before establishing his own, Bach Copenhagen. His stunning designs are created with a woman’s fgure in mind and are expertly cut to ft and fatter. At Bach’s second store, Bach Copenhagen Grey, his own designs are complemented by red-carpet collections from the likes of Herve Leger and Monique Lhuillier, as well as a carefully curated selection of luxury accessories. hl Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

Bach Copenhagen Grey, Hovedvagtsgade 6, 1103 Copenhagen, +45 3311 5511, bachcopenhagen.com * for map go to page 90

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SHOP THE WORLD

SHARP SHAPES The geometric jewel-shaped handbags from Berlin-based label Alpha Cruxis will make you look at jewels in a whole new light. Produced using 3mm-thick highquality Italian leather to create their unique, rigid form, they’re lined in super-soft black suede. Our favourite is the triangular clutch which dangles of the wrist. With its chunky silver hardware, it’s the perfect piece to toughen up a feminine cocktail dress in the evening. Watch out for the new coloured suede linings, which will become available online and in stores throughout the year. jtj Henrik Vibskov, Krystalgade 6, 1172 Copenhagen, +45 3314 6100, alpha-cruxis.com * for map go to page 88

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

PHOTO: © MONIKA HOLZNER

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

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42 | N E W S

NEW BRANDS AT COLLAGE THE SHOP Already a favourite among trendsetters in the Danish capital, Copenhagen multibrand accessories store Collage the Shop becomes even more exciting this season with the addition of some very impressive new names to its already wide range. The eponymous label of fashion powerhouse Tom Ford and the gorgeous handbag collection from Italian-Brazilian designer Paula Cademartori join brands such as Gucci, Loewe and Mulberry. In addition, two of the fashion pack’s favourite designers will also be represented in the store for the frst time: Christopher Kane and Olympia Le-Tan. hl Collage the Shop at Illum, Østergade 52, 1100 Copenhagen, +45 3318 2788, collagetheshop.dk * for map go to page 86

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

SMOOTH SAILING Danish designer Frederikke Hviid’s vision for Whiite was to create a functional yet luxurious and fashion-conscious clothing line. Inspired by modern women who are busy juggling work, family and social life, Hviid has kept this ethos at the core of the brand during the past decade. Carefully selected, high-quality fabrics and a focus on ft result in easy-to-wear pieces which can be dressed up or down to adapt to the demands of each day. Whiite’s new collection, Sail Away With Me, uses a colour palette of blues, sand and sunset shades. Flowing silks, satin and scalloped prints emulate the movement of sunlight refections and seashore waves. gl Whiite, Kronprinsensgade 7, 1114 Copenhagen, +45 6021 6036, whiite.com * for map go to page 90

Denmark’s menswear is rapidly gaining a worldwide reputation. Ruairidh Pritchard discovers the secrets of this Copenhagen success story 99 / 109

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Above: Katastrophe collection, Soulland spring/ summer 2014

LET’S HEAR IT FOR THE BOYS

Time after time Scandinavia has been heralded as the home of Europe’s best emerging menswear designers and the coolest cuttingedge fashion, with ferce debate over which city can claim the title

of capital of contemporary Scandi style. Many believe it’s Stockholm, home to world-renowned labels such H&M and Acne, or Gothenburg, with its distinctly fresh, hip edge. However, when it comes to

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innovative, stand-out-cool menswear, it’s clear that the Danes have it nailed. Copenhagen has produced some of Europe’s fnest menswear designers, from high-end talents such as the avant-garde Henrik Vibskov, whose pieces are much coveted, to rising stars such as recent graduate Nicklas Kunz. Kunz’s frst full collection, his autumn/winter 2013/14 range inspired by sportswear and hip hop, has already earned fans across the globe, including the designer’s fa-

vourite rapper, Kendrick Lamar. One designer brand that has seen a meteoric rise to streetwear stardom is Soulland. Started in 2002 by designer Silas Adler, the brand began with a concept – Tshirts inspired by skateboarding culture, frst made by Adler for his friends. T-shirts soon expanded into entire collections, but the label still keeps its streetwear roots intact, with a strong focus on mixing classic and contemporary styles, using the best-quality materials to create clothes that exemplify

Above (clockwise from top lef): Katastrophe collection, Soulland spring/summer 2014; Goods store; Katastrophe collection, Soulland spring/summer 2014; Soulland founder Silas Adler

PHOTO: AmAndA HeSTeHAve

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PHOTO: SAScHA OdA

Craftsmanship and simplicity are key to the Scandinavian design ethos

the Copenhagen’s design aesthetic – as Adler describes it, ‘simple, intelligent and wearable.’ The label’s latest ofering is the spring/summer 2014 Bauhausinspired Katastrophe collection. As Adler explains, ‘The Bauhaus was probably the most important school to infuence modern architecture and design. Its abstract forms and geometric shapes obviously played a central inspirational role for the design of the spring/ summer 2014 collection.’ While Adler himself is not Danish, he

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was raised in Denmark and lives in the country, and acknowedges the efect of this on his design process. ‘I am very aware of Denmark and Copenhagen. And in many ways I’m inspired by this town and the life I have in it,’ he says. The collection is largely focused on signature all-over and collage prints, all made by hand, featuring masks, geometric and fragmented architectural pieces, building on the Danish design foundations of attention to detail and honest craftsmanship. Craftsmanship and simplicity have always been key to the Scandinavian style ethos. These characteristics apply to fashion design and to lifestyle as a whole. Danish brand Wood Wood, founded in the same year as Soulland, is another

Denmark has carved a niche for its cool, contemporary menswear

great example of Danish functionality in fashion, with collections focused on refning Scandinavian style to create comfortable, wearable fashion – put simply, real clothes for real men. It’s the overarching lifestyle focus that has seen many Danish brands branch out from design into successful retail.

Wood Wood has seven stores, expanding the Danish design-led lifestyle across Denmark, Germany, Austria and Russia. Menswear stores such as Goods are also staples of the Copenhagen-based Scandinavian menswear movement, ofering carefully edited pieces from collections by con-

Above (from lef): Shamballa Jewels sapphire lock bracelet; Wood Wood (all spring/ summer 2014)

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temporary, simple, streetwearinspired labels such as Dana Lee, House of Billiam, Norse Projects and YMC. The evolution of the Danish menswear aesthetic hasn’t gone unnoticed, with designers and fashion followers alike beginning to take note of Copenhagen’s style kudos. Mads Kornerup, Copenhagen native and founder of jewellery label Shamballa Jewels, has been creating bracelets, necklaces, cuffinks and rings with his brother Mikkel since 2001, fnding success worldwide and amassing fans all over the world. Both brothers are in agreement that the men of Copenhagen are not only defning Scandinavian style, but leading the way. ‘The men in the city are just

as focused on fashion as women, if not more,’ they explain. ‘It’s an amazing place for contemporary menswear and guys put a lot of effort into what they wear – not in a try-hard way, but in a very efortless way. It’s a very laid-back but polished way of dressing.’ Looking north for the best European menswear design and inspiration is undoubtedly the way forward – it’s clear that Denmark has carved itself a niche as the Scandinavian capital of cool, contemporary menswear henrikvibskov.com, nicklaskunz.com, soulland.com, woodwood.dk, goodscph.com, shamballajewels.com

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GREEN LIGHT

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Denmark and its Scandinavian neighbours are at the forefront of sustainable fashion. David Hellqvist meets some pioneering designers

Denmark, and the rest of Scandinavia, has made a name for itself over the years for minimal, considered fashion design and for pushing the agenda in terms of homeware and technology. But anyone who’s been following Swedish and Danish brands of late knows that it’s no longer all about cool monochrome clothes and denim. As Scandinavian style becomes more diverse, the regional focus has turned to eco-friendly and sustainable fashion. ‘There’s a deep-rooted tradition in our social democratic society for taking responsibility – not only for people, but also the environment,’ explains Jonas Eder-Hansen, director of development of the Danish Fashion Institute. ‘Social equality, fair working conditions, environmental protection were introduced by legislation several decades ago, so 101 / 110

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it lies in our traditions and in our values to think responsibly.’ Denmark is a country that’s always been ahead of the curve on ecomatters. This way of thinking and working is visible in a wide array of Danish brands, both commercial, mainstream labels and edgy catwalk designers. Few other countries have managed to convince so many of its customers that sustainable fashion doesn’t have to equal beige and boring garments, and it’s down to an unquestion-

able emphasis on design. ‘I think it’s really important to realise that consumers will not buy a product only because it’s sustainable – you must create something that’s relevant and covers the customer’s needs,’ says Kjetil Aas, co-founder of menswear brand Armoire d’Homme. The Danish fashion industry seems fully aware that just being eco-friendly isn’t enough – style and substance must go hand in hand. According to Marie Worsaae from knitwear-focused brand Aiayu, that notion hit Denmark

Previous page: Aiayu knitwear spring/summer 2014

Above (both images): Armoire d’Homme spring/ summer 2014

. passion for fashion . Kongens ny torv 20

D K-1050 co p en h ag en

+ 45 3393 1307

w w w. b inDes b o el . DK

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PHOTO: KArinA JønsOn

Denmark’s highquality, sustainable garments make it an eco-fashion world leader

a while back. ‘There’s an increased understanding that sustainable fashion can also meet good quality and that ethics and aesthetics can join hands,’ she says. Kjetil Aas believes that this green consciousness is inherent to Scandinavian designers. ‘Quality has always been of big importance in Scandinavian design tradition. At the same time, Scandi fashion is focused on so-called “democratic fashion”, which means it should be accessible to everyone.

Those two factors combined might explain why a lot of Scandinavian fashion designers are working with sustainability.’ Designer Barbara í Gongini, who shows at Copenhagen Fashion Week, suggests that the willingness to embrace environmentally friendly fashion is down to consumer mindset and to being prepared to spend a little extra. Her eponymous brand might challenge people’s perception of how ‘ecologic fashion’ should look.

Above (from lef): Barbara í Gongini; Aiayu knitwear (both spring/summer 2014)

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Gammel Mønt 1 • 1117 København K Tlf. 33 11 01 12 • www.axel.dk

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The Barbara í Gongini aesthetic is dark and moody, reminiscent of Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens. Though the brand conforms to fashion’s biannual collection cycle, the tempo is not a problem when it comes to maintaining eco-quality. ‘We generally don’t work with fast trends and mass consumption. On the contrary, our core essence is to make long-lasting styles, and we work hard to implement that mindset in our design process,’ the designer explains. Any brand with a focus on sustainability might struggle to implement a holistic, 360-degree policy. ‘There are still limitations in realising a 100% sustainable product, but it’s important that we support the industry in their efort to reach that point,’ says í Gongini. ‘We have developed an in-house rating system that we use from sea-

son to season in order to measure our success. We are not there yet, though.’ Marie Worsaae of Aiayu, which produces Danish designs made out of top-quality Bolivian fabrics, fnds it difcult to locate suitable manufacturing partners. This is especially true, she says, for ‘materials that have a uniqueness about them but still maintain high quality. Moreover, it’s still hard for the manufacturers to understand the importance of certifcations as customers’ demands for increased quality increase.’ In many ways, however, that’s a ‘good problem’ – it’s only when consumers choose high-quality, sustainable garments over throwaway fashion that progress has been made – and Denmark seems to be leading the way armoiredhomme.com, aiayu.com, barbaraigongini.dk

Above: Aiayu knitwear is handknited in Bolivia using traditional techniques

58 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 59

Stephen Doig takes a stroll through the magical enclave of Christiania, Copenhagen’s unique ‘freetown’

LIVING FREE

Despite its historical architecture, 21st-century Copenhagen is a booming modern city. The cobbled streets and historic churches remain, but the skyline is dotted with cranes as new structures rise. Striking contemporary buildings include the glistening Black Diamond, a modern riverside extension to the Royal Danish Library which also houses an auditorium and exhibition spaces, and the imposing, colossal Opera House, while the city’s homes are flled with cutting-edge technology and design. The landscape that the Little Mermaid looks upon has shifted dramatically. This is why passing through the gates to Christiania is all the more magical; the hard edges and clean lines of the city melt away to reveal a very different world. 103 / 112 PHOTO: CC BY 2.0/seier+seier

107

PHOTO: CC BY 1.0/BrunO JargOT

60 | F E AT U R E S

The rich fairytale history set out by Hans Christian Andersen seems to live on in Christiania, a warren of fantastically painted buildings, craft havens and greenery and a ‘freetown’ which functions outside the normal laws of Danish society. So how did such a place come into being? Christiania, found to the south of the city centre on the banks of Copenhagen’s myriad waterways, was formerly an army barracks.

Cars are not allowed, ivycovered buildings are painted with lavish murals

Previous page: glass house in Christiana

On 4 September 1971, a group of free-thinking Copenhagen locals broke into the disused barracks to use the overgrown green space as a play area for their children. Jacob Ludvigsen, editor of the cutting-edge left-wing Hovedbladet magazine, is credited with declaring Christiania an autonomous space, publishing in Hovedbladet that ‘Christiania is the land of the settlers. It is the so far biggest opportunity to build up a society from scratch while nevertheless still incorporating the remaining constructions. … The objective of Christiania is to create a self-governing society whereby each and every individual holds themselves responsible for the wellbeing of the entire community.’ But it would be too broad a brush stroke to merely paint Christiania as a ‘commune’. It is, quite simply, like falling through a particularly lovely rabbit hole, as Alice did to discover Wonderland. Above: entrance to Christiana

BOSS 0595/S

HUGO BOSS Nordic ApS Phone +45 33 188000 www.hugoboss.com

PHOTO: CC BY 1.0/QuisTnix

PHOTO: CC BY-sA 3.0/sTefAn erTmAnn

S H O P | 63

It is immediately striking that there are no car-worthy roads in Christiania – cars are not allowed. Ivy-covered buildings are painted with lavish murals, paths are lined with lavender and tulips grow alongside timber structures that look like cottages from a Brothers Grimm fairytale. Some of these pretty, almost unreal-looking structures, built by the residents, overlook lapping waters. Others are built into hills, round-windowed and oozing charm, like something from Tolkien’s Shire. Buildings are not ‘owned’ as such, but are built to be passed on to others, in time. It’s 85 acres of peace, tranquility and alternative living. ‘I always advise that my guests see a slice of Christiania,’ says Kirsten Brøchner, owner of Hotel Kong Arthur and the Ibsens Hotel. She sees the area as adding a richness to the Copenhagen experience. ‘It’s a great way to see another side to Copenhagen, a simpler way of life, which, as the city changes, is all that more important to preserve. It can be a like stepping back in time.’ Brøchner’s tips include taking in the Gallopperiet art museum by Christiania’s main entrance, catching the various art galleries Above (both images): murals in Christiana

‘We are living in heaven,’ says a long-time resident of Christiania

and drinking in the atmosphere over cofee, as well as stopping by Galleri Leonard, a collective artist workshop and exhibition space on Sydområdet. Pick up some handcrafted artifacts at CA Butikken on the corner of Prinsessegade and Bådmandsstræde, marvel at the artisanship in the Q-Smedien iron workshop on Mælkevejen and soak up some late night jazz after dark. As long-time Christiania resident Tanja Fox, who moved to the area as a child and has never left, attests: ‘we are living in heaven’ christiania.org, arthurhotels.dk/hotel-kong-arthur, arthurhotels.dk/ibsens-hotel, gallopperiet.dk, kvindesmedien.dk

64 | E X P E R I E N C E

Raising the BaR Copenhagen’s cocktail bars ofer innovative menus, unique concepts and engaging atmospheres. Verity Hogan raises a glass to a selection of the city’s best

Despite its reputation as a beerloving city, in recent years Copenhagen has created a vibrant cocktail bar scene that rivals any in Europe. Inspired by an infux of international bartenders as well as a crop of returning Danish bartenders who honed their skills abroad, cocktail culture has become so important that there is even a bartender’s club dedicated to promoting and developing the art of the globalblue.com

cocktail in Denmark. This new generation of mixologists has made its mark by setting aside paper umbrellas and mediocre ingredients in favour of more unusual spirits, fresh fruit juices and handcrafted syrups, served in suitably refned glassware. Cocktail bar décor also refects this attention to detail with ultra-chic interiors, while bartenders display the fnest sartorial style while serving.

S H O P | 65

Sa lon 39 With a dĂŠcor featuring the carefully constructed shabby chic one would expect from a speakeasystyle bar, Salon 39 exemplifes faded glamour. The expert bartenders enhance the atmosphere, refecting the vintage aesthetic in their traditional attire. Cocktail choices change each season but generally

rely on high-quality whisky and bourbon. Expect to fnd unique mixes based on handcrafted favours; typical options include the Coco Riot with its distinctive popcorn- and coconut-infused rum and the Gold Rush 39 which includes a bourbon that tastes of honey-favoured cereal. Salon 39, Vodrofsvej 39, 1900 Copenhagen, +45 3920 8039, salon39.dk

66 | E X P E R I E N C E

The Barking Dog

PHOTO: jakOb dall

Described as a ‘cocktail pub’, the Barking Dog transcends both genres with its simple concept of a relaxed atmosphere, good music and exemplary service. The bar’s menu caters to all tastes; the house beer, Barking Dog Pilsner, has a

distinctively Danish favour and is produced by the fnest brewers in Jutland, while the wine selection includes vintages from the best producers in France and italy. The Barking Dog, Sankt hans gade 19, 2200 Copenhagen, +45 3536 1600, thebarkingdog.dk

The U nion Bar The Union Bar shares many traits with the well-known prohibition bars of 1920s new York. its location is hidden behind an unmarked black door on a quiet residential street; guests ring the gold doorbell before being ushered inside to globalblue.com

the low-lit, atmospheric interior. a pressed tin ceiling and bare brick walls lend character to the space while bartenders in bow ties concoct an array of classic american cocktails with fair. The Union Bar, Store Strandstraede 16, 1255 Copenhagen, +45 4119 6976, theunionbar.dk

Welcome to Wonderful Copenhagen

TOWN SHOP Exclusive Souvenirs

T-shirts & Sweatshirts - Knitwear - Accessories - Books - Postcards - Souvenirs

Toldbodgade 51E w- Østergade 1 - Frederiksberggade 32 - Langelinie Allé 18 Langelinie Allé 20 - Klubiensvej - Sct. Laurentii Vej 56, Skagen

www.townshopdk.com

68 | E X P E R I E N C E

L i dkoe b With its bohemian décor and cosy open freplace, Lidkoeb is one of Copenhagen’s most intimate bars. The bar is housed in a former pharmacy laboratory; the building was constructed in the 18th century and has been carefully restored to retain its heritage aesthetic. The menu features both classic and more innovative cocktail options; globalblue.com

share a pitcher of punch with a group of friends or try one of the house mixes – the New orleans Minute combines tequila, maraschino liqueur, orange bitters and a handful of cofee beans, while the Mynte Smash, features vodka, mint and pineapple syrup. both are highly recommended. Lidkoeb, Vesterbrogade 72b, 1620 Copenhagen, +45 3311 2010, lidkoeb.dk

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b a LT h a z a r The balthazar Champagne bar strikes the perfect balance between honouring the luxury connotations of this famous sparkling wine and adapting it to suit the modern bar scene. The bar’s entrance and interior décor is suitably grand and the menu features a selection of the world’s fnest vintages – Champagnes by Moët et Chandon,

Veuve Clicquot and dom Pérignon are all available by the glass. Cocktail options are more daring; the Velvety emerald combines brut Champagne with Żubrówska bison Grass vodka, fresh lime and a homemade apple and cinnamon syrup, while the downtown abbey adds passion fruit, liquorice and belvedere vodka to the mix. Balthazar, Ny Østergade 6, 1101 Copenhagen, +45 3312 1262, balthazarcph.dk

70 | E X P E R I E N C E

Stay in Style

PHOTO: PAUL WINCH-FURNESS

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

Art’Otel Art, design and upscale hospitality are an integral part of any stay at Amsterdam’s Art’Otel. Works by the hotel’s signature artist Atelier Van Lieshout are found on almost every wall, while the hotel restaurant 5&33 hosts artistic events as well as serving exquisite Italian-inspired cuisine. A unique work of art hangs in each of the globalblue.com

hotel’s 107 guest rooms, which also ofer ultra-comfortable beds, atmospheric lighting and luxury Elemis toiletries. Be sure to take advantage of the hotel’s well-appointed facilities, which include a gym, an indoor swimming pool, a Finnish sauna and a beauty salon. Art’Otel, Prins Hendrikkade 33, 1012 TM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 719 7222, artotelamsterdam.com

PHOTO: FRANCISCO GUERRERO TANCO

S H O P | 71

Meliá MAdrid PrinceSA Featuring all of the attributes you could wish for in a luxury hotel, the Meliá Madrid Princesa is one of Europe’s most style-conscious places to stay. The hotel was recently renovated and each room now boasts a contemporary yet refned interior, combining a warm

colour palette with minimalist furnishings. The hotel’s central location is an added attraction; it is set just a short walk away from a number of sights including Gran Vía, the Museo del Prado and Plaza Mayor. Meliá Princesa, Calle de la Princesa 27, 28008 Madrid, +34 91 541 8200, melia.com

72 | E X P E R I E N C E

25hours hotel at MuseuMsQuartier Refecting Vienna’s creativity, the 25Hours hotel is located in the city’s most artistic district and boasts an appropriately avantgarde décor. The hotel is themed around a circus and each room features illustrations by artist Olaf Hajek, depicting everything from juggling clowns to acrobats in globalblue.com

fight. This eclectic décor is complemented by an array of more conventional amenities, including fatscreen televisions, iPod docking stations, sustainable toiletries and free Wi-Fi. Larger suites are equipped with kitchenettes but all guests should visit the hotel restaurant, 1500 Foodmakers, with its cosmopolitan take on ItalianAmerican cuisine. 25Hours Hotel at Museums Quartier, Lerchenfelder Strasse 1-3, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 521510, 25hours-hotels.com

74 | E X P E R I E N C E

SuiteS Center BarCelona Providing a home from home in the city centre, Suites Center Barcelona ofers a range of apartments designed for between one and 10 guests. Every apartment ofers an array of amenities, from a fully equipped kitchen and bathroom to air-conditioning units and parking spaces. The suites globalblue.com

were completely renovated and refurbished in 2010 and now ofer serene yet inviting interiors that encourage relaxation. Optional added luxuries include private transfers, room service, a babysitting service and a menu of massage treatments. Suites Center Barcelona, Passeig de GrĂ cia 128, 08008 Barcelona, +34 93 255 3010, hotelescenter.es/barcelonasuites

Visit the LEGO® Store in the home of the brick!

How to ﬁnd us:

Opening Hours

de træ rs te os Kl

Mon - Thu: Fri: Sat: Sun:

Vimmelskaftet

10:00am - 6:00pm 10:00am - 7:00pm 10:00am - 6:00pm 11:00am - 5:00pm

LEGO Store Copenhagen - Vimmelskaftet 37, 1161 Copenhagen Tel: +45 5215 9158

de træ es tu ds Ba

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Amager

For a complete list of LEGO Stores, events, directions and more go to LEGO.com/stores

76 | E X P E R I E N C E

My Weekend Copenhagen is one of Europe’s most acclaimed capitals, ofering internationally renowned cuisine, cutting-edge concept stores and a city centre that is ideally sized for a short break. SHOP’s picture editor Dorcas Brown spends a weekend wandering the city’s picturesque streets – and avoiding its many cyclists

Normann Copenhagen

PHOTO: jePPe sOrensen

‘As I’m a fan of Danish design, Normann Copenhagen was one of the most inspirational stores I visited. Its vast product range includes the cutting edge of contemporary design.’

Kung Fu ‘After a long day’s sightseeing, Kung Fu’s relaxed ambience and Asian-inspired menu was a more than welcome discovery. The menu features an array of sushi, dumplings and ramen.’

Royal Smushi Café ‘No visit to Copenhagen would be complete without a smushi. The Royal Café’s speciality is a bite-sized open sandwich that lies somewhere between a traditional smorrebrod and sushi.’

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96

S H O P | 77

Butik for Borddaekning

DIRECTORY

‘The six designers featured at Butik for Borddaekning are known for their individual aesthetics but all have created pieces that could form part of a luxury table setting. High-quality design is paramount, while materials used include concrete and wood.’

Normann Copenhagen, Østerbrogade 70, 2100 Copenhagen, +45 3527 0540, normann-copenhagen.com Butik for Borddaekning, Møntergade 6, 1116 Copenhagen, +45 3332 6101, butikforborddaekning.dk Emmerys, Store Kongensgade 97, 1264 Copenhagen, +45 3330 1350, emmerys.dk

Emmerys ‘Emmerys is my favourite lunchtime location; the bakery is famed for its favourful organic sourdough and ofers an extensive range of breads, cakes and pasta. I recommend visiting for a cup of cofee and a slice of cake.’

globalblue.com

Royal Smushi Café, Amagertorv 6, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3312 1122, royalsmushicafe.dk * for map go to page 86 Kung Fu, Sundevedsgade 5, 1751 Copenhagen, +45 3331 8409, kungfubar.dk

The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save

The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register

*Subject to local conditions.

G U I D E | 79

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Copenhagen with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/copenhagen or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

80 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOs: DORCAs BROWN

‘Bustling, dynamic Copenhagen retains a laidback, friendly charm that makes it one of my favourite cities in Europe’ – Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s assistant fashion and news editor

globalblue.com

S H O P | 81

Follow our team on Instagram @globalblue and tag us in your city photos â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you might see them in print!

82 | G U I D E

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Hotel Featured In This Issue

Tourist Information

IK BUT ●3 O AN EG ●L TSM POR A● ●S ZAR D REN E● ●T S AG M E S O L ID ● S A V IL A PEZ N O ● A T TR H AV S ● A IN E ●S SHO S ERE EET ●D STR T E● ● G S FOO D O PIT ● ETE ND E U THL ● A VEL P L RWE A R NAM ● ● H UNDE TER MAS Z & ● W ’E R E N RTS R AN ● ● 12 S P OT O R Y K G L E R ● A S Z IE G E N sso N OV A SK A Bare ERR ●T ● N CO IG N B IA ● D E S T O - IC A CES URE F MM PHO IE A R V ● P Ø G E T S S Ø LV ●G STR ULD & NN ● OR FMA DO ● ●G YT K AU AL S N ATA ● ●M IC O L’U N U E ● IQ MON MBER ● FA

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Royal Copenhagen, amagertorv 6, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3814 9605, royalcopenhagen.com for map go to page 86

One of Copenhagen’s oldest and most prestigious companies, Royal Copenhagen has been producing the highest quality porcelain since 1775. The brand strikes the perfect balance between tradition and modernity; its classic blue and white designs are still painted by hand but customers are invited to mix and match its latest collections to create a more contemporary feel.

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G U I D E | 85

Frederiksberggade, Nygade & Vimmelskaftet

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

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SHOP Recommendation

Featured In This Issue

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The design-conscious Weekday boutique appeals to those with experimental wardrobes. The store’s selection is centred on denim and the extended range for both men and women is infused with the same edge and attitude. Peruse the store’s own labels before admiring pieces by local brands such as Cheap Monday, Rodebjer, Back and Whyred. Weekday, Amagertorv 33, 1160 Copenhagen, +45 3312 1512, weekday.com

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SELECTED STORES IN ILLUM:

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86 | G U I D E

Amagertorv & Østergade

F I L I PPA - K . C O M

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TIM ES UP VINTAGE ● SCREWED ● HENRIK VIBSKOV ●

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● ● S I KLA ● FA X RE BO ● MA LK DE H& C EN R GE M R G NE M ● AN NA G ● STO A. R C. E PE RC H’ S

SKO FEBER ● 3 BUTIK ● TIGER ●

BO SK S ● G BO ES & IN ● LA GH ● ID PI N M AN É R DE ● T ES IT ● DE SC DC LØ SA SA M L OO ● ● VS GE M Æ ST P SØ TR RK ● ● E Æ ET SA RE E& S DE O ● I ST AM PA N T UD SØ RT TR IO E TW OP O EZ

RENÉ ● CHICO ●

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zarah voigt zarah voigt is known for infusing her collections with a touch of theatricality. her avant-garde aesthetic always attracts attention while her use of precious metals and high manufacturing standards mean quality is guaranteed. Despite the famboyant nature of her work, voigt maintains a base of strict, geometric shapes and often incorporates aspects of origami within her work.

Zarah Voigt, gammel Mont 23, 1117 Copenhagen, +45 3336 3376, zarahvoigt.com for map go to page 86

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A place where dreams come true. At Eplehuset we know all there is to know about Apple. Come for a visit if you want to experience Apple, or if you want to discover Copenhagen’s largest range of accessories. See, hear and experience Bang & Olufsen’s line of audio proucts for the iPad and iPhone. Or what about the Danish prize winner, Libratone the elegant AirPlay® design speaker? store. In the heart of Copenhagen. We look forward to seeing you.

Eplehuset - Your Danish Apple Expert. Located in the heart of Copenhagen. Frederiksborggade 8 | www.eplehuset.dk

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Kristen Bernikows Gade, Ny Østergade, Østergade, Christian IX’s Gade & Grønnegade GN

BOLIA.COM ●

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FILLIPA K Filippa K epitomises Scandinavian style; the label specialises in timeless pieces and well-cut basics that never go out of fashion. This spring/summer, expect to fnd Filippa K’s popular stretch jeans alongside smart separates in muted colours, with clean cuts and splashes of spring forals found throughout the collection. Filippa K, Ny Østergade 13, 1101 Copenhagen, +45 3393 8000, flippa-k.com

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92 | G U I D E

Store Kongensgade, Bredgade, Store Strandstræde & Kongens Nytorv

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SA NK BRUUN TA ● OPTICIAN KLAUS RASMUSSEN ● NN Æ BERTHELSEN PL ● MONTANA MOBILE SECHER SCOTT ● AD ● ROYAL AMBER S Mash P.94 REBEKKA BILLE ● NOTKIN ● ● BODIL BINNER ● A. DRAGSTED MATAS ● CARL HANSEN & SØN ● ● LARS GLAD BJARNHOF.COM ● ● JUUL ● DANISH SILVER ● MONTAN REESLEV ● Baresso ● MERMAID AMBER REPUTATION ● ● HORNSLETH & FRIENDS KLASSISK DE ● BINDESBØL MODERNE ● CPH PIANO RÆ KO MØBELKUNST ● ST ● GALERIE BIRCH NG ND Geist RA EN ● HARTMANN'S T S S N ● BIKERENT ● FORMELA.DK T O R E YT S OR ● ZANE V ● HOUSE OF AMBER

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ANNE A N KT AMMITZBØL ● A

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Kongens Nytorv Square

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Hotel D'angleterre ● GABOR ● KGS NYTORV SKO ● TELENOR

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THE ROYAL THEATER

The Royal TheaTRe Copenhagen’s opulent theatre, featuring red velvet seating, golden balconies and a painted ceiling, provides a perfect setting for classical pieces while its shape makes it especially suited to ballet; Swan lake and Don Giovanni have both been performed here.

The Royal Theatre, Kongens Nytorv, 1017 Copenhagen, +45 3369 6933, kglteater.dk

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In August 2013 Vanessa Bruno opened her frst Scandinavian retail venture located in central Copenhagen. Vanessa Bruno is the go-to brand for city-chic separates, from tailored blazers to business-ready shirts and more feminine, leg-baring dresses.

Ă&#x2DC;stergade 24C ( PistolstrĂŚde ), 1100 KĂ¸benhavn K. Telefon 3219 9608 www.vanessabruno-cph.dk

94 | G U I D E

MY Copenhagen: henning Kern Danish jewellery brand Dyrberg/Kern has ofered jewellery and watches designed in Copenhagen for modern, confdent women for the past three decades. CEO and creative director Henning Kern tells Isabella Redmond Styles why the city is his creative home dyrbergkern.com

‘I love it here. Copenhagen has been voted the best city in the world to live, more than once. I took the step about 10 years ago of moving to Islands Brygge, an up-and-coming, cool area close to the harbour. ‘In Copenhagen, if you want the best of Scandinavian design, go to Illums Bolighus * p.86. I don’t need to mention they sell Dyrberg/ Kern there, do I? Adjacent to Illums Bolighus, you’ll fnd Royal Copenhagen * p.86, where they sell renowned hand-

Above: Royal Copenhagen china

painted china which goes perfectly with classic and modern interiors alike. ‘For avant-garde fashion, I’d recommend Storm * p.90, the coolest boutique, where you can get top collections of art, fashion and design – a true haven for design lovers like me. The department store Illum * p.86, a few steps away, ofers everything the design lover needs across four large foors, including a gourmet supermarket. ‘I’m a classic guy and like classic food. Try Pastis for authentic French brasserie-style food. Sticks ‘n’ Sushi will treat you to the best sushi in town. Another cool Islands Brygge local restaurant is Scarpetta, a modern Italian restaurant with reasonable prices and lovely comfort food. More than a few times I have brought people to Mash * p.92, a high-end steak house. Mash has a very cool

PHOTO: (TOP RIGHT) MORTeN JeRICHAu/COPeNHAGeNMedIACeNTeR.COM

G U I D E | 95

atmosphere and you always meet someone you know there. Another place I like to frequent is Café Victor * p.90, a classic bistro style restaurant/bar which has been around forever. Their Danish food is perhaps still the best in town. ‘My favourite walk in Copenhagen is a stroll from where I live at Islands Brygge, passing over the Langebro bridge, which takes me straight down to the harbour. I’ll pass the Black Diamond, which is the Royal Library. From there I’d probably walk down to the beautiful Kongens Nytorv square * p.92, which houses the restored Hotel d’Angleterre * p.92, and then stroll down to Nyhavn, to all the

chic cafés. And perhaps have a beer. Denmark still ofers seriously good beer. In the summer time everybody gathers there and it’s crowded with people. ‘From Nyhavn you get a spectacular view over the water of Copenhagen harbour to the Copenhagen Opera House * p.83, which was a gift from Maersk a few years back, designed by architect Henning Larsen. It’s an amazing construction and a spectacular view. ‘If you are in the mood for a very nice cup of tea, go to Perchs Thehandel * p.90. They serve the best English high tea, just like they do in the UK. Not many people know of the place, but their scones are amazing. ‘As I’m a big fan of modern art, I never skip any shows at the Louisiana museum. ‘The city bikes are really cool – really cheap and they are parked everywhere for you to unlock and go! On warm summer days, drive all the way out to the north beaches of Bellevue.’

Above (clockwise from top lef): Café Victor; Nyhavn harbour; Hotel d’Angleterre

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Translations РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Let’s Hear It For The Boys

Скандинавские стиляги

Индустрия мужской одежды набирает в Дании стремительные обороты. Руайрид Притчард попытался узнать секреты успеха копенгагенских дизайнеров globalblue.com

Время от времени Скандинавию объявляют центром передовой моды и самых перспективных дизайнеров мужской одежды, однако вопрос о том, какой же город можно назвать столицей скандинавского стиля все еще остается открытым. Многие дизайнеры склоняются к мысли, что таким городом является Стокгольм, ведь именно здесь сосредоточены такие популярные бренды, как H&M, Acne или Gothenburg. Однако, если речь заходит об инновационной и яркой мужской одежде, то датчанам тут нет равных. Копенгаген подарил Европе наиболее выдающихся дизайнеров мужской одежды: от знаменитого Хенрика Вибскова до Никласа Кунца, – восходящей звезды модной индустрии. Первая полная коллекция Кунца для сезона осень-зима 2013/2014 черпает свое вдохновение в спортивном стиле и культуре хип-хоп. Коллекция уже успела завоевать немало поклонников по всему миру, и одним из них стал кумир дизайнера – репер Кендрик Ламар. «Soulland» – еще один дизайнерский бренд, которому удалось добиться стремительного успеха. Его история началась в 2002 году, когда Сайлас Адлер решил создать серию футболок на скейтбордную тематику. Вскоре небольшие серии превратились в полноценные коллекции, созданные с применением первоклассных материалов и сочетающие элементы

100 классического, современного и уличного стиля. Изделия дизайнера являются воплощением копенгагенской эстетики, как говорит Адлер: «простой, рациональной и удобной». Вдохновением для последней коллекции дизайнера весналето 2014 стала архитектурная школа Баухаус. Как заметил Адлер, «Баухаус вероятно была основной школой, повлиявшей на формирование современной архитектуры и дизайна. Ее абстрактные формы и геометрические фигуры заняли центральное место в моей коллекции весна-лето 2014». Хоть Адлер и не является датчанином, но вырос и долгое время жил он именно в Дании и это не могло не повлиять на его творчество. «Я хорошо знаю Данию и Копенгаген. Жизнь здесь вдохновляет меня во многих отношениях», – говорит он. Особенностью коллекции стали масштабные принты и фото коллажи с масками, геометрическими фигурами и фрагментами архитектурных элементов, характерных для датской традиции. Выдающееся мастерство и простота исполнения всегда были ключевыми нотами скандинавского стиля. Это же в полной мере относится и к местному образу жизни. Датский бренд «Wood Wood», основанный в тоже время, что и «Soulland», очередной пример датской практичности в моде. Коллекциям марки свойственны характерные черты скандинавского стиля, такие как удобство и globalblue.com

комфорт, проще говоря, настоящая одежда для настоящих мужчин. Благодаря тому, что многие бренды уделяют много внимания образу жизни, привычному для многих европейцев, их коллекции далеко не ограничиваются подиумными показами, но имеют большой коммерческий успех. Так, скандинавские коллекции Wood Wood можно найти в семи магазинах марки в Дании, Германии, Австрии и России. Бутики мужской одежды, такие как Goods также имеют в запасе большой ассортимент тщательно подобранных изделий современных скандинавских брендов, включая Dana Lee, House of Billiam, Norse Projects и YMC. Стремительная эволюция датской мужской одежды не могла пройти незамеченной мимо дизайнеров и последователей моды. Начиная с 2001 года коренной житель Копенгагена и основатель марки Shamballa Мэдс Корнеруп совместно со своим братом Миккелем создает очаровательные браслеты, ожерелья, запонки и кольца. Сегодня украшения марки покорили практически весь мир, а браслет «Шамбала» стал хитом современной моды. При этом, братья твердо уверены в том, что именно копенгагенцы стоят в авангарде скандинавского стиля: «Мужское население Копенгагена интересуется модой не меньше женского, если даже не больше. Это потрясающее место для формирования мужской моды и мужчины прилагают для этого немало усилий. В результате получается очень непринужденно, естественно и стильно».

101 Так что поклонникам современной европейской моды обязательно стоит обратить свой взор на скандинавские страны, и в особенности на Копенгаген, доказавший свое право называться столицей стильной и современной мужской моды. henrikvibskov.com, nicklaskunz.com, soulland.com, woodwood.dk, goodscph.com, shamballajewels.com

50: Green Light

Зеленый свет

Дания и ее скандинавские соседи являются пионерами эко-моды. Дэвид Хэлквист встретился с некоторыми из ее представителей Дания, как впрочем и другие страны скандинавского региона, уже многие годы славится своей минималистичной и сдержанной модой, а также предметами интерьера и технологиями. Однако любой, кто следит за развитием модной индустрии в Швеции и Дании, мог заметить, что местные бренды уже давно не предлагают заурядную монохромную одежду и деним. За последние годы

скандинавский стиль стал гораздо разнообразнее и насыщеннее, а в центре внимания оказалась экологичная классика. «В нашем социально-демократическом обществе установились очень глубокие традиции – мы привыкли нести ответственность не только за общество, но и за окружающую среду, объясняет Йонас ЭдерХансен, директор по развитию Датского института моды. Политика социального равенства, справедливых условий труда и охраны окружающей среды была внедрена в наше законодательство еще несколько десятилетий назад и за это время стала частью наших традиций, наших ценностей и ответственности». Дания всегда была ведущей страной в вопросах экологии. Такого способа мышления и работы придерживаются многие датские бренды, включая массовых производителей и независимых дизайнеров. Немногим странам удалось убедить столь же значительное число покупателей в том, что классическая мода отнюдь не обязана ассоциироваться с бежевым цветом и скучной одеждой, и что главный акцент должен ставиться именно на дизайн. «Очень важно осознать, что потребители не будут покупать товар только потому, что он экологичный и натуральный – вы должны создать нечто действительно актуальное, то что будет отвечать потребностям клиента», – говорит Кьетил Аас, соучредитель бренда мужской одежды Armoire d’Homme. Для датской индустрии моды этот факт

102 является вполне очевидным. По мнению многих скандинавских дизайнеров, стиль всегда должен соответствовать содержанию. Мари Ворсааэ из компании Aiayu, специализирующейся на изделиях из трикотажа, считает, что Дания уже давно заняла такую позицию: «В этой части Европы существует глубокое понимание того, что экомода может быть по-настоящему качественная, а этика и эстетика могут вполне мирно сосуществовать бок о бок». Кьетил Аас полагает, что подобное «экологическое» мышление было присуще скандинавским дизайнерам с самого начала. «Качество всегда имело большое значение в скандинавской традиции дизайна. В то же время, мы привыкли ориентироваться на так называемую «демократичную моду», предполагающую ценовую доступность для покупателей. Сочетание этих двух факторов может объяснить, почему многие местные дизайнеры выбирают именно эко-моду». Дизайнер Барбара Гонгини, представившая свою коллекцию на Неделе моды в Копенгагене, считает, что успех эко-моды стал возможен благодаря менталитету потребителей и их готовности потратить немного больше обычного. Одного знакомства с изделиями дизайнера будет достаточно, чтобы навсегда изменить свое отношение к «экологичной моде». Эстетика Barbara í Gongini загадочная и таинственная, напоминающая стиль Ann Demeulemeester и Rick Owens. globalblue.com

Хотя бренд успевает выпускать свои коллекции дважды в год, это никоим образом не отражается на эко-качестве. «Мы никогда не следовали скоротечным тенденциям и не ориентировались на массовое потребление. Напротив, нашей основной целью было создание образов, которые просто не будут выходить из моды, поэтому мы упорно работаем, над реализацией этой идеи при дизайне наших коллекций», – объясняет модельер. Любой бренд, работающий с эко-модой, может столкнуться с некоторыми трудностями при реализации глобальной политики. «Существуют определенные ограничения при создании 100% экологичной одежды, но важно то, что мы поддерживаем это направление и рано или поздно мы достигнем своей цели», – говорит Гонгини, – «также мы разработали специальную рейтинговую шкалу, с помощью которой можно из сезона в сезон оценивать наш успех; пока что нам еще есть к чему стремиться». Мари Ворсаае из датского бренда Aiayu, знаменитого своими коллекциями одежды из высококачественных боливийских тканей, говорит о том, что найти подходящих производственных партнеров сегодня довольно сложно. Особенно это качается тех ситуаций, когда мы работаем с «уникальными и одновременно высококачественными материалами. Более того, многим производителям по-прежнему трудно понять, насколько важно производить качественный сертифицированный товар, особенно в условиях

103 повышенного спроса на качественную продукцию». Свидетельством очевидного прогресса, скорее всего, будет тот момент, когда покупатели во всем мире будут отдавать предпочтение высококачественным и натуральным вещам, нежели скоротечной моде, а пока что здесь лидирует только Дания. armoiredhomme.com, aiayu.com, barbaraigongini.dk

58: Living Free

Жить свободно Стивен Дойг прошелся по волшебным улочкам копенгагенской Христиании – уникального «свободного города» Несмотря на свою древнюю архитектуру, сегодняшний Копенгаген представляет собой вполне современный город. Казалось бы, вокруг все те же мощеные улицы и старинные церквушки, но глянув на горизонт, невольно замечаешь все новые и новые строящиеся здания. К числу современных архитектурных сооружений Копенгагена можно смело отнести «Черный Бриллиант» – новое здание Королевской библиотеки, вмещающее конференцзал и выставочный комплекс, а также потрясающий Оперный театр. Что касается жилых домов, то здесь копенгагенцам в особенности повезло – их строительство ведется по самому последнему слову техники и дизайна. Со времени открытия статуи Русалочке городской пейзаж подвергся серьезным изменениям. Именно поэтому путешествие по

сказочным улицам Христиании представляет еще больший интерес – резкие границы и чистые линии городских построек сливаются здесь воедино, открывая поистине новый мир. Целый сказочный мир, созданный Гансом Христианом Андерсеном, словно оживает в Христиании, ее фантастически разрисованных домах, мастерских, оранжереях и даже местных законах, – ведь это своего рода государство в государстве. íак как же могло возникнуть подобное место? Христиания, расположенная к югу от центра города и изрезанная множеством небольших каналов, была когда-то территорией военной части. В 1971 году 4 сентября группа свободомыслящих местных жителей проникла на территорию заброшенных к тому времени и поросших зеленью бараков и стала использовать ее как игровую площадку для прогулок с детьми. Значительный вклад в историю Христиании внес Якоб Лудвигсен, издававший анархистский журнал «Hovedbladet», в котором он провозгласил создание свободного города: «На сегодняшний день это крупнейшая попытка построить новое общество, используя при этом уже имеющиеся конструкции. … Целью Христиании является создание демократического общества, каждый член которого будет ответственен за благополучие всей общины». Одним словом «община» едва ли можно описать все великолепие Христиании. Попав туда чуствуешь себя Алисой, последовавшей за кроликом и

104 встретившей настоящую страну чудес. Первым что бросается в глаза – это отсутствие машин, которые здесь запрещены. Поросшие плющом здания покрыты яркими граффити, вдоль дорог растут тюльпаны и лаванда, а деревянные домики словно вышли из сказок братьев Гримм. Некоторые из этих симпатичных, практически волшебных построек расположены прямо напротив узеньких водоемов. Другие имеют вид уютных землянок с круглыми окнами, прямо как из деревушки хоббитов. Здания никому официально не принадлежат и со временем должны передаваться другим гражданам. Вся эта идиллия и безмятежное существование охватывает в общей сложности 34 гектара земли. «Я всегда советую своим гостям сходить на экскурсию по Христиании», – говорит Кирстен Брехнер, владелица отелей Kong Arthur и Ibsens Hotel. По ее мнению, этот район значительно обогатил ландшафт Копенгагена. «Это отличная возможность увидеть другую сторону Копенгагена и простой образ жизни, который нужно тщательно беречь, учитывая нынешний прогресс. Попадая сюда, ты словно чувствуешь, что оказался в прошлом». Среди всего прочего Брехнер советует посетить расположенный рядом с Христианией художественный музей Gallopperiet и другие картинные галереи, особенно Galleri Leonard – коллективную художественную мастерскую и выставочную площадку на улице Sydområdet. В globalblue.com

«CA Butikken» на углу Prinsessegade и Bådmandsstræde можно приобрести изящные изделия ручной работы, в мастерской Q-Smedien на Mælkevejen полюбоваться на работы жестянщиков, а вечером послушать приятную музыку в одном из кафе. «Мы живем в раю», – именно так описала Христианию Таня Фокс, приехавшая сюда еще будучи ребенком и оставшаяся здесь по сей день. christiania.org, arthurhotels.dk/hotel-kong-arthur, arthurhotels.dk/ibsens-hotel, gallopperiet.dk, kvindesmedien.dk

96: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов.

105 Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум 300DK и сэкономьте до 19% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.

格。然而，当谈及充满创意、超凡酷我的男装，显然丹麦人胜券在握。哥本哈根培养了一批欧洲最顶尖的男装设计师，从作品让人垂涎的高街时尚天才，前卫的Henrik Vibskov，到冉冉升起的新星，刚毕业不久的Nicklas Kunz。Kunz 的首个完整系列，他的2013/14秋冬系列受到运动与嘻哈风格的启发，已在全球范围内吸引了诸多粉丝，其中包括设计师最喜欢的说唱歌手Kendrick Lamar。此外还有设计师品牌Soulland，其演绎的街头风格再度如流星般蹿红。 这个由设计师Silas Adler创立于2002年的品牌，从一个简单的概念出发——即由滑板文化

美文翻译

生发出的T恤设计，第一批产品由Adler 和他的朋友们亲手制作。品牌的产品线很

44: Let’s Hear It For The Boys

倾听男装

快从T恤扩展到全方位各领域，但街头文化的神髓仍根植于品牌之中，品牌着重于将经典与当代风格混搭，并采用最优质的面料，制造出反映哥本哈根设计美学的产品——正如Adler所描述的， “简约，人性化并且耐穿。 ” 该品牌的最新2014春夏系列，是一组灵感来自包豪斯风格的作品。Adler解释道， “包豪斯风格可能是对现代建筑和设计影响最为深远的学派。其抽象表现形式和几何形的运用，是我们2014春夏2014系列设计灵感的核心来源。 ”虽然Adler本人并非丹麦籍，但他在丹麦出生与成长，并深知该国对于自己设计的影响。 “我很了解丹麦和哥本哈根。在方方面面，我都受到所居住的小镇与当地生活的启发， ”他表示。设计师在系列中大量运用了招牌式的整体与拼贴印花，

丹麦男装在世界范围内声名鹊起。听

并全部通过手工制作，包含面具、几何图形

Ruairidh Pritchard讲述哥本哈根成功故

与建筑碎片等元素，这些都是建立在关注细

事背后的秘密

节与扎实工艺的丹麦设计理念之上。

斯堪的纳维亚半岛屡被誉为欧洲最优秀新

的精神核心。这些特性既适用于服装设计，

工艺与朴素向来是斯堪的纳维亚风格晋男装设计师与最酷前沿时尚的摇篮，就哪

也适用于生活方式。与Soulland同年成立

座城市可以担起当代斯堪的纳维亚时尚之

的丹麦品牌Wood Wood，是另一个丹麦

都的名号，人们展开了一系列激烈的争论。许

功能性时尚的典范，品牌的产品系列着重于

多人坚信非斯德哥尔摩莫属，这里诞生的世

重塑斯堪的纳维亚风格，并制造出舒适、耐

界知名品牌包括H＆M和Acne，也有人认为

用的时尚——简而言之，就是为真男子汉打

是哥德堡，因其独特的新颖、嬉皮的潮流风

造的服装。正是因为对于生活方式的核心关

106 注，让许多丹麦品牌的设计实现了成功的零售。Wood Wood共有有7家分店，在丹麦、德国、奥地利和俄罗斯等地推广丹麦设计主导的生活方式。由Soulland背后团队运营的男装店铺，如Goods也是以哥本哈根为基地的斯堪的纳维亚男装运动的重要阵地，这里提供经过精挑细选的产品，来自一系列当代风、简约风、运动风品牌，如Dana Lee，House of Billiam，Norse Projects 与YMC。丹麦男装美学的风格演变并未受到忽 PHOTO: Karina jØnsOn

视，设计师与时尚追随者们都开始关注哥本哈根的时尚成就。 珠宝品牌Shamballa的创始者，也是哥本哈根本地人的Mads Ko-

rnerup，从2001年起与兄弟Mikkel一起创作手镯、项链、袖扣、戒指等作品，在世界范围内大获成功，受无数粉丝追捧。两兄弟都赞同，哥本哈根的男人不仅定义了斯堪的纳

品牌的人都知道，他们的设计已经不止局限

维亚风格，并一直引领风尚。 “这座城市的男

于酷感十足的纯色服装与牛仔系列。斯堪

人对于时尚的关注度绝不亚于女性，甚至更

的纳维亚风格正在变得更为多元，该区域的

多， ”他们解释道。 “对于当代男装而言这是

关注重点已经转移到生态友好与可持续发

一片神奇之地，这里的男性在穿着中投入大

展。"在我们的民主社会中有一个根深蒂固的

量精力——并非是刻意强为，而是以一种自

传统，就是承担责任——不仅是对人，也是

然不做作的姿态。这是一种慵懒但不乏精致

对环境， ” 丹麦时装学院的发展总监Jonas

的着装方式。”

Eder-Hansen解释道。 “平等的社会，公平

要寻找欧洲最佳男装设计与灵感，毫

的工作机会，以及对环境的保护在几十年前

无疑问要一路向北——显然丹麦已定位于

就已经写入法律，所以用负责任的方式思考

这片小众市场，并将自身塑造为斯堪的纳维

来自于我们的传统与价值观。"在环境保护

亚地区的酷感与当代男装之枢纽。

事业上，丹麦向来走在世界前列。

henrikvibskov.com, nicklaskunz.com, soulland.com, woodwood.dk, goodscph.com, shamballajewels.com

麦品牌中可见一斑，从商业主流品牌，到前

这种思维与工作方式在纷繁众多的丹卫秀场设计师品牌。很少有国家能像丹麦一样，成功说服那么多的顾客，让他们了解

50: Green Light

绿色之光

可持续并不等同于米黄色或乏味的服装，可持续亦已成为设计中不容置疑的重点。"我认为最重要的是明白，消费者不会仅仅因为

丹麦与临近的斯堪的纳维亚地区，已走在可

一件产品的环保性而去购买——你必须创

持续时尚的最前沿。David Hellqvist为我

造出相关的、符合客户需求的产品， "男装

们拜访了几位先锋设计师

品牌Armoire d’Homme的联合创始人

丹麦与其他斯堪的纳维亚地区，因过去几年

是不够的”了若指掌——风格和内涵必须

中对于极简、环保的时尚设计的推动，并推

齐头并进。正如主打针织的品牌Aiayu的

进了其在家居与科技领域的发展议程，而闻

Marie Worsaae所言，丹麦人获此觉悟已有

名于世。然而最近所有开始追随瑞典和丹麦

好一阵子。 “有越来越多的人意识到，可持

Kjetil Aas表示。丹麦时尚界似对“光环保

globalblue.com

107 续时尚可以兼顾高品质，道德与美学可以和谐共存。”她说。

Kjetil Aas认为，这种绿色意识被斯堪的纳维亚设计师们所继承。 “品质对于斯堪的纳维亚设计传统而言相当重要。与此同时，斯堪的纳维亚时尚也强调所谓的“民主方式” ，即对所有人展开怀抱。将这两个因素结合起来，就可以解释为何众多北欧时装设计师都在关注服装的可持续性。”  在哥本哈根时装周上展示作品的设计师Barbara í Gongini表示，消费者们已经全然准备好接受环保时尚的理念，并且愿意为此多花一点钱。设计师同名品牌可能会挑战人们对于“生态时尚”的固有认识。

Barbara í Gongini美学是阴暗的、情绪化的，让人联想到Ann Demeulemeester与 Rick Owens。虽然品牌仍旧遵循时尚届一 PHOTO: CC BY 2.0/seier+seier

年两次的展示周期，但对于持续环保而言，速度并不是问题。 "我们一般不关注转瞬即逝的潮流与大众消费。相反我们的核心理念是塑造可以持久延续的风尚，我们竭尽所能将这一思想贯穿到设计过程中， ”设计师表示。任何专注于可持续性发展的品牌，都可能难以推行全面、360度的透明理念。 “要让产品实现百分百可持续性发展，目前还存在局限，但我们对于行业努力达成这一点的

58: Living Free

自由生活

支持是相当重要的， ” í Gongini说道。 “我们已经开发出一个内部评级系统，在每一季

跟随Stephen Doig去哥本哈根独一无二的

都用来评估我们的成绩。但即便如此，我们

魔幻领土“Christiania自由城”一探究竟

还没有做到百分之百。” Marie Worsaae来自以最优质玻利维亚面料演绎丹麦设计的

21世纪的哥本哈根纵然历史建筑林立，仍

Aiayu品牌，她发现很难找到志同道合的供

是一座欣欣向荣的摩登都市。在这里，鹅卵

应商伙伴。她说，寻找“那些拥有自身特性但

石街道与历史悠久的教堂任被完整保留，但

仍拥有高品质的面料非常困难。不仅如此，

城市的天际线上布满了为建造新建筑而架

对于制造商而言很难了解认证的重要性，以

起的吊车。这些引人注目的现代建筑包括光

及顾客们对于质量日益增长的需求。 ”

耀夺目的Black Diamond，这片摩登的河

然而从许多角度来看，这都是一个“好

边建筑群一直延伸到丹麦皇家图书馆，容

问题”——只有当消费者相较于即穿即丢的

纳着礼堂和展览空间，以及气势磅礴的歌

快时尚，更愿意选择高品质、可持续的服装

剧院，同时这座城市的居住用楼也充斥着

时，我们才会见到实质性的进展——而丹麦

尖端技术和前卫设计。丹麦小美人鱼所凝

在这方面似乎仍是一路领先。

视的风景已与从前大相径庭。这一切让通往

armoiredhomme.com, aiayu.com, barbaraigongini.dk

的刚硬棱角与简洁线条逐渐融化，一个非同

Christiania之路变得更为神奇；随着城市

108 寻常的世界展现于世人眼前。

绿地，这里是脱离丹麦社会运作机制的“自

Sydområdet的艺术家集体工作室与展示空间Galleri Leonard驻足。人们还可以在位于Prinsessegade与Bådmandsstræde街交界处的CA Butikken 选购手工艺品。或是去Mælkevejen街的Q Smedien铁艺工场，

由城邦”。这样的地区是如何产生的？地处

领略让人赞叹的智巧工艺，此处入夜后还有

哥本哈根市中心南部，伫立于错综水域之岸

爵士乐演出可供欣赏。正如从孩童时期就搬

的Christiania，前身是一处军营。在1971

入Christiania，并再未离开过的常住居民

年9月4日，一群哥本哈根的自由思想人士闯

Tanja Fox所言： “我们生活在天堂之中。” christiania.org, arthurhotels.dk/hotel-kong-arthur, arthurhotels.dk/ibsens-hotel, gallopperiet.dk, kvindesmedien.dk

由安徒生童话谱写的童话梦境在

Christiania得以重生，在这片桃花源中到处是飞驰画栋，以及人们亲手建立的家园和

入了这片区域，将其打造成绿色空间以供孩子们嬉戏。先锋左翼杂志Hovedbladet的主编 Jacob Ludvigsen，宣布Christiania 成为一片自由空间，并在Hovedbladet杂志上发表言论“Christiania是属于在此定居者的空间。这是迄今为止从无到有建立起一个与周边区域保持联动的社会的最佳契

96: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

机。Christiania的目标是建立一个自治社

畅购全球，尊享退税

会，在此每一名个体都会为全社会的福祉担起责任。”仅仅用“公社”来形容Christiania

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店

则显得过于宽泛。简而言之，这里就像爱丽

消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退

丝掉进了特别美妙的兔子洞后发现的仙境。

税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约

让Christiania即刻引起人们注意的是区内不设任何车道——车辆完全不允许进入

购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝

这个区域。常春藤覆盖的楼房都装饰着华丽

（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错

的壁画，小路两旁的薰衣草和郁金香茁壮成

过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商

长，萦绕着宛若格林童话中的小木屋。部分

家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，

原住民建造的超现实美丽建筑，俯瞰着附近

然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

的水域。其他的则建于山间，圆形窗户与透

1. 消费购物

光设计，就像托尔金笔下的中土世界。这些

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表

建筑物并不为谁人所“拥有” ，而是建造来日

格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记

后传递给他人的。在这片85英亩的地上，孕

得保存小票。

育着和平、安宁与不同常规的生活方式。 “我总是建议我的客人们去

2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海

Christiania一窥究竟， ”同时经营着 Hotel Kong Arthur与Ibsens Hotel的老板 Kirsten Brøchner表示。她认为这片区

关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后

域能为哥本哈根之旅平添异彩。 “这是窥探

变，这种方式更值得被保留下来。就像是

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费300DKK并且节约高达购买价格 19%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税

时光在此倒流。”Brøchner 还建议人们从

总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时

Christiania这边的主入口，进入Gallopperiet艺术博物馆，参观不同风格的艺术

现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单位

哥本哈根另一面的绝佳途经，可以了解一种更简单的生活方式，随着城市的不断演

画廊，并在同一片氛围中享用咖啡，在位于

globalblue.com

再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。联系方式：

收取一定数额的手续费。

109 日本語翻訳

な作品が大人気のヘンリック・ヴィブスコフなどの高級ファッションデザイナーから、学

44: Let’s Hear It For The Boys

校を卒業したばかりのニクラス・クンツとい

北のメンズが熱い

った新人まで、ヨーロッパで最も洗練されたメンズウェアデザイナーを輩出してきた。クンツの初コレクションである2013・14 年秋冬物はスポーツウェアやヒップホップをヒントとしたものだったが、既に世界中でファンを獲得している。クンツが大ファンのラッパー、ケンドリック・ラマーもその一人だ。ストリートウェアの大舞台に流星のごとく現れた一つのデザイナーブランドが、ソウルランドだ。デザイナーのサイラス・アドラーが 2002年に設立したこのブランドは、「スケートボード文化から発想を得たTシャツ」というコンセプトから出発している。アドラーが友人のために作ったのが始まりだ。まもなくTシャツから完全なコレクションへと拡大したが、ストリートウェアのルーツは現在も持ち続けている。古典的なスタイルと現代的なスタイルをミックスすることに重点を置き、最上の素材を使ってコペンハーゲンのデザインの美学を体現した服を創っている。アドラーの言葉を借りれば、「シンプルで知性的で着やすい」服だ。同ブランドの最新作は、バウハウスからインスピレーションを得た2014 年春夏カ

デンマークのメンズウェアが急速に世界的

タストロフィー・コレクションだ。アドラーい

名声を得つつある。このコペンハーゲンのサ

わく、「バウハウスは、近代建築や近代デザ

クセスストーリーを、ルーリー・プリチャー

インに最も重要な影響を与えたといってい

ドが追った。

いでしょう。その抽象的な形や幾何学的な

スカンジナビアは、ヨーロッパきっての新進

ンのインスピレーションとして中心的な役割

メンズウェアデザイナーと洗練を極めた最新

を果たしたのは確かです。」アドラー自身は

ファッションを生んだ地として再三話題に上

デンマーク人ではないが、この国で育ち、こ

るが、どの都市が「現代スカンジ・スタイル

こで暮らす彼は、それが自分のデザインプ

の都」の称号にふさわしいかについては激

ロセスに及ぼす影響に気づいている。「デ

しい論争が交わされている。H & Mやアク

ンマークとコペンハーゲンを強く意識してい

ネ、ヨーテボリといった世界的ブランドを生

ます。この街とここでの暮らしは、実に豊富

み、フレッシュで粋なファッションを特徴と

なインスピレーションの源になっています」

するストックホルムを押す人は多いが、革新

という。コレクションの中心は特徴的なオー

的で断然クールなメンズウェアといえばデン

ルオーバーとコラージュプリント。マスクや幾

マークが明らかに抜きん出ている。

何学模様、建築物の断片を、モチーフに、デ

形状が、2014 年春夏コレクションのデザイ

コペンハーゲンは、アヴァンギャルド

ィテールへのこだわりと真面目な職人技と

110 いうデンマークデザインの基本に忠実に全

にも頑張ったというお洒落ではなく、実にさ

て手作りしたものだ。

り気ない。肩の力を抜きつつ洗練された装

職人の技とシンプルさは常にスカンジ

いです。」

ナビアンスタイルの鍵であり、ファッション

ヨーロッパ随一のメンズウェアデザイ

デザインとライフスタイル全体に通じる特徴

ンとインスピレーションを求めるなら、見る

だ。ソウルランドと同年に設立されたデン

方角は間違いなく北だ。スカンジナビアのク

マークのブランド「ウッドウッド」も、デンマ

ールで現代的なメンズウェアの都として、デ

ークの機能的ファッションの好例で、そのコ

ンマークは確たるニッチを築いた。

レクションはスカンジナビアンスタイルを洗

henrikvibskov.com、 nicklaskunz.com、 soulland.com、woodwood.dk、 goodscph.com、shamballajewels.com

練して心地よく着やすいファッションを創造することを主眼にしている。簡単に言えば、本物の男のための本物の服だ。デンマークブランドの多くがデザインだけでなく小売りでも成功しているのは、そうしたライフスタ

50: Green Light

イル全体を見据えているから。ウッドウッド

グリーンファッション

は、デンマークのデザイン主導のライフスタイルを国内だけでなくドイツ、オーストリア、ロシアにも広げ、7店舗を展開している。ダナ・リー、ハウス・オブ・ビリアム、ノース・プロジェクト、YMCといったストリートウェアにインスピレーションを得た現代的でシンプルなブランドのコレクションから選りすぐった品を揃えるグッズのようなメンズウェアストアも、コペンハーゲンを拠点とするスカンジナビアンメンズウェアの飛躍に欠かせない。デンマークのメンズウェア美学の進化は人目を惹き、コペンハーゲンスタイルの名声はデザイナーにもファッション愛好家にも聞こえるようになっている。コペンハーゲン生まれで宝飾品ブランド「シャンバラ」の創設者マッズ・コーナップは、2001年から弟のミケルと共にブレスレット、ネックレス、カフリンク、リングを作って来たが、シャンバラは

デンマークとその隣国のスカンジナビア諸国

今や各国にファンをもつ世界的なブランド

は、持続可能なファッションの最先端を行っ

だ。コーナップ兄弟は、コペンハーゲンのデ

ている。デイヴィッド・ヘルクヴィストがパイ

ザインはスカンジナビアンスタイルを明確に

オニア的なデザイナーに会った。

示しているだけでなく、その先端を行っているという意見で一致している。「この街の男

デンマークをはじめとするスカンジナ

性はファッションに対して、女性に対する以

ビア諸国は、ミニマリズム的でよく考えられ

上にとは言わないまでも、女性に対してと同

たファッションとホームウェアやテクノロジー

じくらい気を配っている」という。「現代メン

の面でも主張ある商品を生み出すことで有

ズウェアにとっては素晴らしい街で、男は着

名になったが、スウェーデンやデンマークの

るものに相当に気を使います。それも、いか

ブランドの最近の動向を追っている人であれ

globalblue.com

111 ば、スカンジナビアファッションがもはやク

ました。それと同時に、スカンジ・ファッショ

ールなモノクロの服とデニムだけではないこ

ンはいわゆる『民主的なファッション』であ

とを知っている。この地域でもスタイルが多

ることも重視しています。つまり、誰にでもア

様化し、それにつれて焦点がエコフレンドリ

クセスできるファッションです。この二要素

ーで持続可能なファッションへと移っている

が、スカンジナビアのファッションデザイナ

のだ。「私たちの社会民主主義的な社会で

ーの多くが持続可能性を追求する理由かも

は、責任という観念が伝統として深く根付い

しれない。

ています。その責任は人だけでなく環境に対

コペンハーゲン・ファッションウィーク

しても同じことです」と、デンマークファッシ

に出展しているバーバラ・イ・ゴンジニは、

ョン協会の開発ディレクター、ヨーナス・エ

環境に優しいファッションに取り組もうとい

ーダーハンセンは説明する。「社会的平等、

う人が多いのは、結局は消費者の気持ち次

公正な職場環境、環境保護が法制化された

第、少々高くても買う気のある消費者の存在

のはもう数十年も昔のことで、責任ある考え

があってこそではないかという。自身の名を

方が私たちの伝統や価値観に一部になって

冠したブランドは、「エコファッションはこん

いるのです。」デンマークは、ことエコロジー

なルックス」という消費者の既成概念をくつ

に関しては常に先を見てきた国だ。

がえすものかもしれない。彼女の美学は暗

こういった考え方、働き方は、商業的

くムーディで、アン・ドゥムルメステールやリ

な大衆消費者向けブランドも先端的なファ

ック・オウエンスを思わせる。このブランドは

ッションショーデザイナーも同様に、デンマ

年に二度のコレクションサイクルを守ってい

ークのブランドの多くに見られる。「持続可

るが、このテンポがエコクオリティを維持す

能なファッション」イコール「ベージュのつま

る上で問題になることはない。「当社は一般

らない服」ではないことを、これほど多くの

に、流行り廃りの速いトレンドや大衆消費動

消費者に納得させてきた国は極めて稀だ。

向は気にしません。むしろ、長持ちするスタ

これはデザインを重視してきたからに他なら

イルを作ることを真髄としていて、その心構

ない。「消費者は持続可能だからというだけ

えをデザインプロセスに反映させるよう努力

では物を買わないということを悟ることが大

を尽くしています」と彼女は説明する。

変重要です。今日的で顧客のニーズを満た

持続可能性を重視するブランドはいず

す商品を作らなければ駄目なのです」という

れも、360度をカバーする全面的なエコ方針

のは、メンズウェアブランド「アルモアール・

の実施は難しいと感じているかもしれない。

ドム」の共同創設者キエティル・オースだ。

「100 パーセント持続可能な商品の実現に

デンマークのファッション産業は、エコフレ

はまだ制約があるものの、ファッション産業

ンドリーなだけでは不十分でスタイルと中身

がいずれその目標を達成できるよう支援し

を両立しなければならないことを、重々認識

ていくことが大事」だと、イ・ゴンジニはいう。

しているようだ。ニットウェア中心のブランド

「当社では、シーズンごとに達成度を測るた

「Aiayu（アイアユ）」のマリー・ヴォーソー

めの社内評価システムを導入しましたが、目

によれば、そういった認識はデンマークには

標達成はまだです。」アイアユではデンマー

しばらく前からあった。「持続可能なファッ

クのデザインをボリビア産の最高級生地を

ションと質の良さの合体、倫理と美学の同時

使って商品化しているが、ふさわしい製造パ

追求が可能だということに対する理解が深

ートナーを見つけるのが難しいとマリー・ヴ

まっている」という。

ォーソーはいう。これは特に「ユニークかつ

キエティル・オースは、このグリーン意

高品質な素材について言えることです。さら

識はスカンジナビアのデザイナーに内在す

に、より良い品質を求める消費者が増え、品

ると信じている。「スカンジナビアのデザイ

質証明が重要になっていることを製造者に

ンの伝統は、常に品質をとても大事にしてき

理解させるのが依然一苦労」だという。

112 とはいえ、これはいろいろな意味で「良

力的に映る。都市のシャープな輪郭やスッキ

い問題」だ。消費者が使い捨てのファッショ

リとした線は溶け去り、まったくの別世界が

ンでなく高品質で持続可能な衣料を選ぶか

現れるのだ。

らこそ、進歩があるのだから。デンマークは

ハンス・クリスチャン・アンデルセンが

その進歩の先端を行っているようだ。

築いた豊かなおとぎ話の歴史が、クリスティ

armoiredhomme.com、 aiayu.com、barbaraigongini.dk

アーナでは生きているかのようだ。ここは、幻想的に彩られた建物や工芸家の工房、緑地が連なる迷宮の世界で、デンマーク社会

58: Living Free

の通常の法律の枠外で機能する「フリータ

自由に生きる

ウン」だ。そもそもどうしてこんな一角ができたのだろうか。コペンハーゲン市街地の

コペンハーゲンにあるユニークな「フリ

南、無数に張り巡らされた水路の岸にある

ータウン」、クリスティアーナの不思議な世

クリスティアーナは、もともとは陸軍兵舎だ

界を、スティーヴン・ドイグが歩いた。

った。1971年9月4日、コペンハーゲンの自由思想家グループが空き家になっていた兵舎

歴史的建物はあっても、21世紀のコペ

に侵入し、雑草が生い茂る緑地を子供の遊

ンハーゲンは繁栄する近代都市だ。石畳の

び場として使い始めたのが発端だ。クリスティアーナを自治区と宣言したのは、極左雑誌

ラインには建築工事のクレーンが点在してい

Hovedbladetの編集者だったヤコブ・ルード

る。目立った現代建築の一つはブラックダイ

ヴィクセンと言われている。彼は同誌で、「ク

アモンドだ。デンマーク王立図書館を川沿い

リスティアーナは入植者の土地である。現存

に増築した近代的な建物で、講堂や展示ス

する建物を組み入れつつ、社会を一から築く

ペースもある。巨大なオペラハウスも堂々た

ことのできるこれまでになく大きなチャンス

る近代建築だ。さらに、この街の住宅は先端

である。… クリスティアーナの目的は、一人

のテクノロジーとデザインがふんだんに取り

一人がコミュニティ全体の福祉に責任を持つ

入れられている。人魚姫の目に映る風景は

自治社会の創出である」と書き、出版した。

劇的に変化した。だからこそ、クリスティアー

しかし、クリスティアーナを単なるコミューン

ナの門をくぐった時に広がる風景が一層魅

としてしまうのは、あまりにも大雑把だ。無

PHOTO: CC BY 1.0/BrunO JargOT

通りや古い教会は残っているが、街のスカイ

globalblue.com

113 邪気な言い方をすれば、ここに足を踏み入れ

断言した。

るのは、アリスが不思議の国を発見した時の

christiania.org、 arthurhotels.dk /hotel-kong-arthur、 arthurhotels.dk /ibsens-hotel、 gallopperiet.dk、 kvindesmedien.dk

ように、とびきり素敵なウサギ穴を落ちていくのに似ている。まず驚くのは、クリスティアーナには車の通れる道がないこと。車は禁止されているのだ。蔦のからまる建物はふんだんな壁画で飾られ、通路脇にはラベンダーの植え込みが続き、グリム童話に登場する田舎屋のよ

96: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

うな木造の建物沿いにはチューリップが生え

海外でのお買い物が免税に

ている。住民が建てたそんな愛らしくて現実離れした建物は、一部は岸辺にある。一方、

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度

丘の斜面を掘り込む形で建てられたものも

をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名シ

ある。魅力溢れる丸窓の家々は、まるでトー

ョッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店

ルキンの指輪物語のホビット庄を思わせる。

でのお買い物がお得になります。

建物は「所有」の対象というより、いずれは

年間 2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ

他者に受け継がれていくことを前提に建てら

ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜ

れている。85エーカーにわたる平和で静け

ひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青

さに包まれた別生活の場。

い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当た

「宿泊客にはいつも、クリスティアー

らなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」

ナを覗かれるようお薦めしています」と、コ

とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを

ングアーサーホテルとイプセンホテルのオー

踏むだけです。

ナー、キルスティン・ブロクナーはいう。

1.お買い物

この地区を訪れることで、コペンハーゲン

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブル

体験がより豊かなものになると思うからだ。

ーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を

「コペンハーゲンのもう一つの顔、シンプ

受け取ってください。レシートを保管するの

ルライフを見るにはもってこいです。街が変

も忘れずに。

わるにつれて、この地区の保全がますます

2.還付請求

重要になっています。過去にスリップした

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシー

かのような気分になれますよ。」ブロクナー

トに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバ

のお薦めは、クリスティアーナの正門脇に

ル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払

あるGallopperiet

い戻しを受けます。

美術館を訪れ、様々な

アートギャラリーを覗き、コーヒーを飲みな

お問い合わせ：

がら雰囲気を堪能し、Sydområdetにある

の。PrinsessegadeとBådmandsstrædeの

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 30 0DK K 以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高 19 ％の払い戻しが受けられ

交差点にあるCA

ます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税

アーティストの共同工房兼展示スペースのギャラリー・レオナルドに立ち寄るというも

Butikkenで手工芸品を

買い、MælkevejenにあるQ-Smedien 鉄細

（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた

工工房で職人の技に眼を見張り、アフター

金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。

ダークは夜更けのジャズに浸ろう。子供の頃

なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、

にクリスティアーナに移り住んで以来離れた

還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォ

ことがないというターニャ・フォックスは、長

ームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場

年暮らしてきたこの土地を「天国のよう」と

合があります。

114 | P RO D U C T S

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