SHOP Hamburg SS14

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 29

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit!

Hamburg, Jungfernstieg 8, T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 24 hamburg.jungfernstieg@wempe.de Hamburg, SpitalerstraĂ&#x;e 28, T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 22 hamburg.spit@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

The watch you promised yourself, jewelry that will bring a sparkle to her eyes. Welcome to Bucherer.

For individuals with a passion for the art of jewelry- and watchmaking, there’s a name that stands out: Bucherer, one of Europe’s leading watch and jewelry specialists. With a long, rich tradition, the Swissowned company stocks a wide-ranging collection for people who settle for nothing but the best in terms of precision, quality and creativity. Founded in 1888 and now in

and many more

its third generation, the family-owned company carries an enormous selection of prestige watch brands. Our passion for jewels and jewelry goes back an equally long way. So be sure to take a closer look at the diamond, colored gemstone and pearl creations from Bucherer’s jewelry-makers: the impression they leave will outshine anything else.

Hamburg Jungfernstieg 25

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

TOMMY HILFIGER STORE POSTSTRASSE 9 – 11 HAMBURG

The Alsterhaus, situated on Hamburg’s Jungfernstieg waterfront boulevard and overlooking the Alster lake, is one of the world’s leading department stores. Since 1912, the Alsterhaus has been at the forefront of style and luxury with over 24,000 m2 of retail foor space. The Alsterhaus represents the international lifestyle by offering its customers exceptional fashion, beauty and home & living trends as well as food beverages. Numerous shop-in-shops spread over 6 sales foors take the shopper on a journey to the world’s great shopping metropolises, offering its clientele a retail experience of the frst degree. The Alsterhaus is steeped in historical ambience and looks back on a more than one hundred year-old history, comparable to Harrods in London or Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Since the very beginning, this traditional Hamburg department store has been one of Germany’s leading department stores.

On the Alsterhaus basement level the customers will find a unique selection of masterfully crafted writing instruments, leather goods, luggage, a ticket shop and a customer service. Highlights of our customer service include a cloakroom, tailoring, personal shoppers, global shipping and beauty lounges.

In the Alsterhaus beauty department spread over 1,500 m², customers will fnd the luxury brands, newcomer fragrances and innovative natural cosmetics. Fashion accessories from major international brands can also be found on the ground foor.

The frst and second foor at Alsterhaus ofer a modern selection of fashion brands for women and men as well as a hairdresser. A special highlight is our premium lounge private shopping area with a stupendous view over the Alster lake.

On the third foor you will fnd an incomparable assortment of the fnest women’s undergarments and lingerie as well as home and living accessories and Kid’s Fashion.

The 4th foor invites true gourmets to sample a veritable cornucopia of wines and delicacies in our gourmet boulevard, as well as one-of-a-kind Veuve Clicquot champagne bar. Our culinary specialists at our LeBufet restaurant prepare meals in front of guests.

SERVICES

TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU!

PERSONAL SHOPPER We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to Alsterhaus. Our VIP Service specialists will make your shopping trip into a unique individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences,Â ideas and wishes. After an informal discussion and a thorough image consultation,Â we compile an exclusive selection just for you, from which you can pick out and try on your favourite items. Enjoy your visit to our store in a private atmosphere & with a sparkling glass of champagne or a stimulating espresso. For further information, please contact us on +49 (0)40 35901-677 or E-Mail: vip-service@alsterhaus.de

In addition, the Alsterhaus is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services, such as:

TOURS OF THE LEGENDARY ALSTERHAUS Explore the legendary Alsterhaus and learn lots of interesting things, from its beginnings to the department store’s presence today. We would like to accompany you and your guests on an individual tour, which ofers you an introduction to an unforgettable shopping experience. Simply call our customer service too book your personal tour.

CLOAKROOM AND LUGGAGE STORAGE You can leave your coats and jackets as well as your shopping free of charge in the lockers on the Lower Ground Floor.

GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICES Out expertise is to make even the smallest gift stand out. A gift-wrapping service is available at all Alsterhaus checkouts. We are happy to wrap free of charge any items purchased at our store, using our luxury Alsterhaus gift paper.

BEAUTY LOUNGES & SERVICES The exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure, a new Make-up or a perfect hair-styling, all beauty treatments are carried out at Alsterhaus with total care and professionalism. For further information, contact our customer service.

COMPLIMENTARY WIFI Simply log-in while you are visiting the Alsterhaus and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.

CUSTOMER SERVICES Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your purchase from Alsterhaus, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the Lower Ground Floor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you.

MADE-TO-MEASURE Made-to-measure clothing is available at the Alsterhaus. We create exclusive, beautifully cut suits for men and women. You just choose the cloth and decide the detail. And we‘ve chosen SCABAL material especially for you – a special collection of world-renowned fabrics. The Alsterhaus Premium Service is situated on the Lower Ground Floor.

TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. IMMEDIATE CASH BACK ON THE LOWER GROUND. TAX FREE

Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.

ALSTERHAUS Hamburg · Jungfernstieg 16 – 20 · 20354 Hamburg Phone: +49(0)40 35901-0 · Fax: +49 (0)40 35901-310 · Email: service@alsterhaus.de Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm · www.alsterhaus.de

CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN HAMBURG. 2x Alstertal Einkaufszentrum · Mönckebergstraße 18 · Europa-Passage · Elbe-Einkaufszentrum · Spitaler Straße 32 · Wandsbek Quarree · Phoenix-Center (Harburg) · Eppendorfer Landstraße 77 (inside Karstadt) CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS STAR* limited edition, necklace 585/- gold with brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.25 ct.**

Passion. Made in Germany. The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection. Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

www.christ.de

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия

ILLUSTRATION: PAUL X JOhNSON

Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

Welcome to Hamburg This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Hamburg has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we also talk to Hamburg-based designer Iris von Arnim about the allure of cashmere (see our feature on page 56) and take an in-depth look at the city’s inviting shopping arcades (turn to page 48). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 45. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, fnd us on Facebook at Facebook.com/GlobalBlue, follow us on Twitter @GlobalBlue or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Emma Cheevers globalblue.com

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Руководство Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

oyster perpetual yacht-master ii

fashion | lifestyle | beauty HAMBURG MÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE

Welcome to Hamburg, the lifestyle capital of the north Enjoy your stay in a city where history and modernity go hand in hand. You will ﬁnd the GALERIA Kaufhof shopping paradise in the heart of the city on Mönckebergstraße, right next to the main railway station. Visit GALERIA Kaufhof and be inspired by the wide variety of products from famous brand name manufacturers, the excellent service and the fabulous atmosphere. We look forward to seeing you.

GALERIA Kaufhof Mönckeberg Straße 3 | 20095 Hamburg Tel.: +49 (0) 40 - 33 307 - 0 opening hours: Monday - Saturday: 10.00 a.m. - 8.00 p.m.

Main station Main station Mönckebergstraße, Steinstraße, Main station

Car park GALERIA Kaufhof Bugenhagenstr. 1, 325 parking spaces, access via Bugenhagenstr.

perfect shopping with GALERIA Kaufhof

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

Mรถnckebergstrasse | spitalerstrasse

Hamburg, Mönckebergstraße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers. Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt Hamburg.

Contributors

PHOTO: KATIE WILSON ELL

ILLUSTRATION: EOIN RYAN

Eoin Ryan Eoin Ryan created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Hamburg. His textural, graphic artwork has previously been commissioned by Wallpaper, Warp Records and the New Statesman, among others. His ability to conjure up a retro mood makes him the perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about Hamburg’s longestablished shopping arcades on page 48. It shows the city under a beautiful art nouveaustyle arcade canopy. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features editor. A regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph, he is a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. globalblue.com

Dominique Fenn SHOP’s fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn, who has a degree in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion, constantly keeps up to date with the latest developments in style and design around the world.

Holly Swayne Freelance writer Holly Swayne was formerly SHOP’s assistant fashion and news editor, and continues to contribute stories about the latest store openings and must-have products. An avid traveller, she dreams of Malaysia’s Perhentian islands.

Hamburg: Neuer Wall 63

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Eoin Ryan Contributor Holly Swayne Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing coordinator Nadine Tillmann Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Hamburg Tourismus GmbH, Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3005 1300, hamburg-tourism.de SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber-based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

montblanc boutique hamburg neuer wall 18 20345 hamburg tel.: 0 40 - 35 11 75

Montblanc Boutique

Montblanc Document Case

Montblanc TimeWalker ChronoVoyager UTC

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours

Montblanc Heritage Collection 1912 Fountain Pen

Montblanc has become purveyors of exclusive products that reflect todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s high demand for quality, design, tradition and master craftsmanship.

Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N H A M B U RG : • Neuer Wall 1–5, 040 - 343614 • Mönckebergstraße 8, 040 - 326734

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest assortment of leading beauty brands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

canda.com

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.

visit us on

facebook.com/ca

Hamburg Mönckebergstraße 9 • Altona Mercado-Center • Wandsbek Quarree

canda.com

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

ΎΤဒμ ήΧ Α ΐ έ Ζϧ Ϟϫ ΔοϮϤ ΍ ΕΎΤϴλ ήΧ΃ ΎϨϳΪ ϥϭΪΠΘγ C&A ΕϼΤϣ ϪϣΪ Η ΎϤΑ ΪόδΘγ ΍Ϋ· ϲϓ ϕϮδΘ ΎΑ ΍ϮόΘϤΘΗ ϥ΃ ϻ· ϢϜϴϠϋΎϣϭ Δ ΎϧϹ΍ ΔϤ ϰ · έϮΒδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Ε΍Ϊϴδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Δόγ΍ϭ ΔϠϴϜθΗ ϰϠϋ ΍ήϜ ΍ ΎϨϨ΋ΎΑί ΎϧΩϮϋ Ϊ ΎϨΗϼΤϣ ϥΎϤΛϷ΍ Ϟπϓ΄Αϭ Δϴ Ύό ΍ ΔϴϋϮϨ ΍ Ε΍Ϋ ΎϔρϷ΍ϭ ΎΟή ΍ϭ

Contents p.69

P ro d u c t s 34 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Hamburg this season 36 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 42 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Hamburg 44 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

F e At u r e s 48 Cover Story: Covered In Glory Hamburg’s beautiful shopping arcades are havens of history and fashion, says Holly swayne 56 Hamburg’s Cashmere Queen Knitwear doyenne Iris von Arnim talks about the allure of cashmere to stephen doig 62 Bright And Bold German fashion labels are moving away from minimalism to embrace colour and print, as dominique Fenn discovers

Above: Erste Liebe Bar is one of the city’s many and varied places to have a drink

Contents E x pE r i E ncE 68 Raising The Bar Hamburg has an array of bars to suit every taste, says Verity Hogan Gu i dE 73 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Hamburg, plus useful information for visitors

t r a n s l at i O n s 88 Русский Перевод 92 美文翻译 95 日本語翻訳 97 sOuVEnir 98 the essential item to bring home

EssEnti a ls 86 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping

don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.

E nGl i sH | Р ус с к и й | 中文

the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-the-minute shopping tips and insider information.

We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue /globalblue

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Win monthly competitions We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotels stays.

PHOTO: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Destination & buyinG GuiDes

windsor.de

windsor. Store, Neuer Wall 20, Hamburg

34 | P RO D U C T S

PRACTICALLY PERFECT Taking the classic tote to a new level this season, Coccinelle’s python-print leather barrel bag might just be the perfect modern accessory. This beautifully made and trend-setting ofering is typical of the Italian brand, which has 67 stores around the globe and is stocked in some of the world’s most exclusive department Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

stores. Possessing a thoroughly modern appeal with its curved barrel shape and understated tri-colour leather, it’s the ideal size for daytime, carrying all your essentials without weighing you down. irs Coccinelle bag, €349, Görtz, Neuer Wall 10, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3571 1570, coccinelle.com * for map go to page 78

PHOTO: RObeRTO CenTamORe

Check Out

LEADING WOMENSWEAR BRANDS AND COLLECTIONS HAMBURG ALSTERTAL-EINKAUFSZENTRUM MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 8 PM HAMBURG MÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE 15 MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 8 PM

36 | P RO D U C T S

SUMMER SUAVE

Gone are the days when you had to sacrifce style for practicality – men now have the best of both worlds 4

1. Massimo Dutti sunhat, €135, Massimo Dutti, Neuer Wall 38, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3003 2533, massimodutti.com

3. Navyboot brogues, €219, Navyboot, Poststrasse 2-4, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2880 96560, navyboot.com

2. Montblanc smartphone case, €165, Montblanc, Neuer Wall 18, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 351175, montblanc.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

4. Diesel shirt, €130, Diesel, Poststrasse 14-16, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3500 4710, diesel.com

S H O P | 37 5

PHOTO: (9) PackSHOTfacTOry

5. Triwa watch, €139, Torenda, Holzbrücke 7, 20459 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2442 4949, triwa.com

7. Victorinox Swiss Army knife, €74, Tobacco Point, Grosser Burstah 53, 20457 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 0554, victorinox.com

6. Rimowa suitcase, €420.64, Alligator, Sachsentor 26, 21029 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 724 4574, rimowa.de

8. Ermenegildo Zegna sunglasses, €239, Ermenegildo Zegna, Neuer Wall 44, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 298136, zegna.com

globalblue.com

9. Cos shorts, €45, Cos, Neuer Wall 19, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2880 9909, cosstores.com

DE.GANT.COM/STOREFINDER

GANT STORES HAMBURG FL AGSHIP STORE NEUER WALL 80 ALSTERTAL & ELBE-EINK AUFSZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE

P RO D U C T S | 39

CLASS ACT Summer doesn’t have to mean fip-fops and vest tops; here are our top luxury fnds for those who prefer to stay chic 1

1. Burberry Prorsum coat, €2,395, Burberry, Neuer Wall 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 345856, burberry.com 2. Bulgari handbag, €2,500, Bulgari, Neuer Wall 24, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3751 7351, bulgari.com globalblue.com

3. Marc Cain sunglasses, €139, Marc Cain, Neuer Wall 52, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 0189, marc-cain.com

4. Roeckl scarf, €329, Roeckl, Grosse Bleichen 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343418, roeckl.com

40 | P RO D U C T S

BLACK AND GOLD

Inject a little gold to transform black staples

1. Closed shirt, €299, Closed, Bergstrasse 11, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3039 2196, closed.com

3. Hermès Icône belt, €3,500, Hermès, Neuer Wall 40, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 351 0220, hermes.com

2. Niessing ring, €2,600, Niessing, Marriott Hotel, ABC-Strasse 52, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3406 8939, niessing.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

4. Acne jeans, €190, Acne Studios, Bleichenbrücke 10, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6360 7533, acnestudios.com

PHOTO: (2) MaTTHiaS HOffMann; (3) ViCEnTE SaHUC

Bogner HamBurg Rathausmarkt 4 bogner.com

42 | N E W S

PHOTO: PIERRE KAELIN

Shop Window

BURBERRY ARRIVES IN HAMBURG British luxury brand Burberry has opened a new store in Hamburg, its sixth in Germany. Chief creative ofcer Christopher Bailey pushes the boundaries of technology to showcase the brand and the new store refects this global design concept, creating an immersive multimedia shopping experience. Designed Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

to refect the Burberry website, the Hamburg store features large video walls and in-store digital screens, which are used to broadcast live events to create the ultimate retail theatre. The two-storey store carries collections from Burberry London and Burberry Brit, as well as accessories and beauty. irs Burberry, Neuer Wall 36, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 345856, burberry.com * for map go to page 78

HAMBURGER HOF 路 JUNGFERNSTIEG 26 + 28 20354 HAMBURG 路 040 - 34 99 44 61

44 | N E W S

A FINE PROSPECT Liu Jo’s spectacular new Hamburg store, situated on the city’s main shopping street, is an essential stop for fans of the label’s elegant and chic aesthetic. It is located inside a Jugendstil (Germany’s version of art nouveau) building, and the interior décor complements this with sleek lines, pale colours and the minimum of fuss. The result is an airy, relaxed environment in which shoppers can enjoy a spectacular view of Alster lake from the huge foor-to-ceiling bay windows while exploring the newest women’s collections, from the main and Jeans lines to beachwear, underwear and accessories. gl Liu Jo, Jungfernstieg 34, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8823 8140, liujo.com * for map go to page 78

PHOTOS: derkevin.cOm

FLOWER POWER

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Combining two of the things for which it is known – camellia blooms and high-tech skincare – Chanel has launched its Hydra Beauty Nutrition range, created with dry skin and lips in mind. The collection is inspired by the camellia fower’s ability to protect itself from the cold thanks to the special waxes that surround its petals. Hydra Beauty Nutrition uses precious camellia oil to deliver a boost of hydration and protection for parched complexions. gl Douglas, Phoenix-Center, Hannoversche Strasse 86, 21079 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3331 9703, chanel.com

S H O P | 45

SHOP THE WORLD

BACK IN BROGUE Hamburg’s Nina Binné describes her eponymous footwear collection as ‘charming, chic and indispensable, with a sense of humour’. She bases her designs on the timelessly chic and comfortable brogue, giving the shoes an update with unusual patterns such as stars and hearts, and a distinctive purple leather sole as a symbol for inspiration, passion and art. Carefully made using the best materials, Binné shoes are a fast track to easy, understated style. irs Park Mode + Art, Weidenstieg 11, 20259 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 495021, binne-hamburg.de globalblue.com

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offline use. If you’re looking for something specific, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

46 | N E W S

PERFECT CIRCLES This season, we’re very taken with these eye-catching rings from Christ’s own collection. Made out of yellow gold and set with a choice of stones including citrine and amethyst, they will add a rich and vibrant burst of colour to any look. Founded in 1863, Christ is one of Germany’s most trusted jewellers, with stores located across the country. Christ is known for its thoughtful edit of the latest jewellery and timepieces from Burberry, DKNY, Fossil, Gucci and Michael Kors, to name just a few of the high-end brands it stocks. irs Christ, Mönckebergstrasse 18, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 337620, christ.de * for map go to page 78

BETTER BY DESIGN Not just a luxury car maker, Porsche is committed to great design across the board, and its Porsche Design arm, founded in 1972, ofers functional and timeless pieces. From writing tools to leather goods and luxury timepieces, the design team believes in stripping items back to their functional core, before rebuilding and reimagining them. The results are beautiful yet uncomplicated, Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

where form does not take attention away from the cutting-edge manufacturing techniques. The brand’s stores ofer an innovative and interactive shopping experience, so for great German luxury design in a contemporary, interactive setting, look no further. hl Porsche Design, Neuer Wall 3, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3344 1941, porsche-design.com * for map go to page 78

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COVERED

IN Hamburg’s beautiful shopping arcades are havens of history and fashion, says Holly Swayne

GLORY 97

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While Hamburg might be known for cuttingedge boutiques and slick, glossy shopping centres, another side to its retail ofering can be found in the city’s traditional arcades. With many of them dating back hundreds of years, they are worth a visit for their lavish architecture alone, while also providing beautiful spaces in which to shop. Selling everything from the latest sartorial must-haves to traditional German handicrafts and local delicacies, the city’s arcades are an enduring legacy of Hamburg’s rich history as a mercantile city and trading port. The city’s oldest surviving arcade is the Mellin Passage, a small walkway of famed luxury shopping boulevard Neuer Wall. Dating back to the mid 19th century, it is decorated with stunning art nouveau frescoes, drawing in art lovers and shoppers alike. Many of its boutiques have been here since the arcade’s earliest years or come with fascinating histories; the Felix Jud bookstore, for instance, was Opposite: Marlene Dietrich-themed window display at Alsterhaus department store, 1950

founded by the eponymous avid book collector in 1923 and relocated to the arcade in the 1950s, where it continues to ofer an impeccable selection of frst editions, collected works and historical travel books. Other historic stores include KPM (Königliche PorzellanManufaktur), a purveyor of fne hand-painted porcelain made in Berlin since the 18th century. Equally appealing is the Hanse-Viertel, built by renowned German architects Meinhard von Gerkan and Volkwin Marg in the late 1970s. Located a stone’s throw from Hamburg’s historic Rathaus (town hall) the building ofers more than 60 boutiques under a magnifcent glass-domed roof, complete with a 13-tonne foating globe made of Brazilian granite at its centre. Here visitors will fnd international fashion brands such as Timberland and Stefanel, but the arcade’s real charm lies in the independent boutiques dotted throughout. Selling everything from bespoke fashion and specialist antiques, they ofer a more personal alternative to the major chains that surround them. Seek out locally sourced organic cosmetics at Just Pure Above (from top): Mellin Passage; Hanse-Viertel

PHOTO: MediaserVer.HaMburg.de/C sPaHrbier

PHOTO: MediaserVer.HaMburg.de/s sCHwarze

50 | F E AT U R E S

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S H O P | 53

boutique or opt for hand-crafted footwear at Red Wing Shoes. The city’s other relatively modern arcades are still imbued with tradition. The Gänsemarkt Passage is a small space packed with fashion brands and youthful designers, but is of the Gänsemarkt, a place with a rich history. Despite the name, there’s no record of there ever having been a goose market here, but it certainly was one of Hamburg’s main social hubs from the early 18th century. The square is also home to Hamburg’s majestic opera house and the famous bronze statue of German poet Gotthold Ephraim Lessing. A short walk away is the Levantehaus, another arcade that marries tradition with contemporary shopping. Now a protected structure, it was built in the

PHOTO: mediaserver.HamburG.de/s scHwarze

It is clear from these spaces that arcades are still an integral part of life in Hamburg, which adds a richness to the shopping experience

Above (from top): Gänsemarkt Passage; Levantehaus

early 20th century as ofces for a local shipping magnate, but has now been completely renovated and transformed into a modern shopping centre with fashion brands, fne restaurants and a luxury hotel. It is clear from these spaces that arcade shopping is still an integral part of life in Hamburg, which adds a richness to the shopping experience, complementing the city’s large-scale shopping centres. For, as well as its

54 | F E AT U R E S

quaint arcades, Hamburg is famous for having some of the biggest shopping complexes in Europe. Take Galeria Kaufhof, for example; located in the heart of Hamburg, it is widely regarded as Germany’s leading department store, with everything from fashion and jewellery to children’s toys and cookware on ofer. Alsterhaus department store is similarly impressive. With origins that date back to 1897, the four-storey building is now a magnet for lovers of high-end fashion and beauty. All the top international brands can be found here, from Chloé and Dior to Chanel, as well as personal shopping services, a beauty salon and an exclusive restaurant and Champagne bar. So whether you are seeking traditional German souvenirs or international labels, Hamburg has it all, with its quaintly beautiful historic arcades to the vast selections at its department-store giants providing not only unparalleled shopping but a place to enjoy the rich culture and tradition of this diverse metropolis hanseviertel.de, gaensemarkt-passage.de, levantehaus.de Above (from top): the Champagne bar in Alsterhaus; the store’s Poststrasse entrance, 1960

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S H O P | 57

Knitwear doyenne Iris von Arnim talks about the allure of cashmere, the unusual location of her fagship store and the city that inspires her to SHOP’s Stephen Doig

The usual assumptions about knitwear – that it’s cosy, comfortable, not exactly daring – are frmly skewered in the thriving workrooms of Iris von Arnim, who has, since founding her business in 1976, gone on to build a reputation for sleek, elegant, even sensual designs. Working with wool and cashmere, she creates pieces – from T-shirt dresses covered in logos to gauzy, free-fowing cardigans and tops – that showcase the full spectrum of knitwear’s possibilities. And if this weren’t enough, her recent joint venture with supermodel Claudia Schifer on a cashmere collection has only enhanced her status.

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PHOTO: Sven HOffmann JOurnal

HAMBURG’S CASHMERE QUEEN

PHOTO: JUlIAn fAUlHAber

58 | F E AT U R E S

The designer’s enthusiasm for her favourite medium is inspiring: ‘I fnd it interesting because you create the surface, the look and style. You don’t buy a fabric and drape it, you develop everything yourself. Plus, nothing feels as good as cashmere against the skin, and every colour is just that little bit brighter in cashmere,’ she says. Von Arnim frst ventured into womenswear after extensive travel, which left her with a love of hand-crafting that found its home in her business. She chose the location of her fagship store carefully. Although based in Hamburg, the designer decided to open it on the north German island of Sylt, ‘because it has a rough maritime climate and you need a cashmere sweater. I knew that I’d fnd the right clientele there.’ It’s a store that to this day remains a hub, despite the remote location – the designer recently revamped the interior to showcase limited-edition furniture and art. The thriving city of Hamburg also provides plenty of creative stimulation. ‘In Hamburg I admire the people’s discreet, classic elegance. Previous page: Iris von Arnim Uomo collection

‘Nothing feels as good as cashmere against the skin, and every colour is just that bit brighter’ Iris Von Arnim It’s a style that is never out of fashion. I get my inspiration when I walk near the water, along the river Elbe and our large harbour. Generally, I take inspiration from colours and shapes inspired by nature and architecture,’ she says. It’s easy to see where this fnds a home; playing with proportions leads to knits with sculptural elements, such as large cufs, funnel necks, Above: Iris von Arnim fagship store in Sylt

PHOTO: Sven HOffmAnn/IrIS vOn ArnIm

S H O P | 59

oversized pockets and 3D cable-knit efects, alongside more classic items. ‘My team and I have a lot of passion in developing new techniques, structures and shapes, regardless of short-term trends,’ she says of this bold approach to knitwear. ‘Iris von Arnim represents tradition, craftsmanship and the highest quality. My designs are timeless. We create pieces that one keeps for many years and will maybe one day be passed on to the next generation.’ In today’s world of fast fashion, such sentiments are all the more admirable; investing in a piece of exquisitely hand-crafted cashmere that’s been a labour of love is the very defnition of a new kind of luxury that values integrity and craft over labels and fash. The tactile quality of knitwear is also an essential part of the process for von Arnim. ‘My favourite part of the design process is when the samples arrive and I try them on myself. I need to see how it feels when I wear a new piece – it’s very important to me. That’s what makes cashmere so special.’ Above (from lef): cashmere trousers; cable knit on a jumper, both Iris von Arnim

PHOTO: André HemSTedT And TIne reImer / IrIS vOn ArnIm

PHOTO: JulIAn FAulHAber

60 | F E AT U R E S

Her gender is, to von Arnim, an important factor in creating clothes that work for a woman. ‘I design as a woman for women. The Iris von Arnim woman is a powerful woman with her own mind. She likes her feminine side and likes to emphasise it. Sometimes a woman wants to be dressed up in heels and a dress. And sometimes she just wants to be invisible and yearns for a big cashmere cardigan to wrap her, body and soul. I experience that as well and it’s refected in my collection.’ A men’s collection is the latest venture for von Arnim, who is focusing both on that line and on expanding her business across the world. This is not to say that Hamburg doesn’t have a special place in her heart. Visitors, she advises, should ‘always go to the harbour. The water, the sky, the container ships – when I stand at the “gate to the world” (as they call the harbour) I feel very connected to Hamburg. The architecture is unique; you can fnd the warehouse district, which is more than 100 years old, next to cool architecture by Hadi Teherani or the concert hall by Herzog & de Meuron.’ A landscape just as rich and varied as the knits von Arnim so expertly produces, some might say irisvonarnim.de

Above (from top): Iris von Arnim fagship store in Sylt; Iris von Arnim cashmere and silk cardigan

BRANDS Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...

62 | F E AT U R E S

Bright

Some of Germanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading fashion labels are moving away from minimalism to embrace colour and print, Dominique Fenn discovers

And Bold German fashion designers have long been pioneers of pared-back style, focusing on cut, elegantly sculptured silhouettes and clean lines. Minimalism reached a peak in the 1990s and, while there has been a re-emergence of these styles over the past few seasons, many of the labels that spearheaded the understated aesthetic have embraced vivacious prints and bold colour for spring/summer 2014.

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Jil Sander, the undisputed queen of restraint, returned to her namesake label for three feeting seasons, following Raf Simonsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; departure. When the label showed at Milan Fashion Week, the palette for spring/summer was black, white and grey, although there were several looks bursting with colour and print, inspired by the work of the Italian conceptual artist Alighiero Boetti. Opposite: Escada spring/summer 2014

PHOTO: ScHöTTgEr PHOTOgraPHy/MaTTHiaS ScHönHOfEr & cHriSTOPH rüTTgEr

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Escada was bought by Megha Mittal in 2009. As a mother who travels regularly, she is much like the modern woman the brand wants to dress; as a result, her infuence is producing interesting results. In 2012, Mittal brought Daniel Wingate on board to modernise Escada, while staying true to the label’s heritage. Critics praised the new creative director for bringing a freshness to the collections; he has simplifed key looks and introduced sharp suits and separates while bringing back a touch of the famboyance seen in early Escada designs, such as his beautiful long evening dresses trimmed with feathers for autumn/winter 2013. Creating a sense of escapism with daring prints is an area in which Wingate excels. For spring/summer 2014, animal infuences – seen in zebra stripes and girafe spots – sit alongside blown-up graphic foral prints and pineapple motifs. The collection includes foaty dresses, trouser suits and evening dresses. Above: Escada spring/summer 2014

Many of the labels that spearheaded the understated aesthetic have embraced vivacious prints and bold colour Drawing on the stylistic artistry of the surrealist art movement, classic pieces have been given an update at Boss. The label, known for its clean lines and smart tailoring with subtle yet inspired detailing, has manipulated standard shapes. This season, the label plays with illusions, in homage to the great surrealist artists such as Man Ray

S H O P | 65

and RenĂŠ Magritte. Just as the surrealists rejected limits, the new collection transcends boundaries, with leisurewear and eveningwear blurring. The neckline of a double-breasted wool blazer, for instance, mimics that of a casual coat. The magnifed rose blossoms on an etui dress appear to be hand-drawn, and the colours are subdued â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from powder Above: Escada; Boss (both spring/summer 2014)

PHOTO (BOTTOM RIGHT): ScHöTTGER PHOTOGRaPHy/MaTTHIaS ScHönHOfER & cHRISTOPH RüTTGER

66 | F E AT U R E S

blue to grey – so as not to distract from the designs. Germany’s relationship with creative fashion stretches back further than many people might imagine. Over 700 years ago, a German man created what is believed to be the frst fashion book. Matthäus Schwarz was an accountant, born in Augsburg in 1497. He commissioned an artist to record in detail what he was wearing from the ages of 23 to 63. It remains one of the most unique documents in the history of fashion.

‘Then as now people used clothes to express values and emotions,’ explains Ulinka Rublack, author of Dressing up: Cultural Identity in Renaissance Europe. She explains that even back then, clothes communicated fantasies, aspirations and anxieties and that Schwarz ‘loved the possibilities’ of new accessories, materials and cuts. Returning to 2014, German fashion is entering a new dawn through print, colour – and exuberance jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com

Above (clockwise from lef): Jil Sander; Boss; Escada, all spring/summer 2014

My little

MysTery!

Sharam Diniz photographed by Matthew Brookes 路 www.meissen.com

MEISSEN 庐 Boutique Hamburg Alsterarkaden 7 路 Telefon: +49 40 35004868

68 | E X P E R I E N C E

Raising the BaR Hamburg’s bars refect the city’s diverse, cosmopolitan character, with a range of venues to suit every taste. Verity Hogan discovers a selection of the city’s best Given Hamburg’s Hanseatic heritage and cosmopolitan spirit, it is no surprise that the city’s nightlife also takes inspiration from a range of international sources. Every bar has a distinctive style and a varied drinks menu, whether it re-creates the spirit of a classic New York speakeasy with an art deco interior and expertly mixed cocktails, or resembles an English gentleman’s club with dark wood panelling and a selection of whiskies. as a result, there’s a venue for everyone, with a range of interiors, soundtracks and drinks selections to choose from. globalblue.com

S H O P | 69

ErstE LiEbE bar Erste Liebe bar is an easy place to fall in love with. a sleek, minimalist space fooded with natural light, the bar has a clean, modern interior with a striking monochrome colour scheme. the atmosphere is relaxed with a creative spark, which is refected in the modern art displays dominating the walls. its stripped-back vibe makes it a popular place for groups to meet; take a seat at one of the solid wooden benches to enjoy a quick cofee or lively lunch with friends. Erste Liebe Bar, Michaelisbr端cke 3, 20459 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3690 1808, ersteliebebar.de

70 | E X P E R I E N C E

aT L a n T ic B a r

PHOTO: © kai abrescH PHOTOgraPHy

atlantic Bar transports its guests back to the 1930s with its art deco-inspired interior, immaculately dressed bartenders and live piano music. The drinks menu is varied, ofering a selection of wines, Sekt and

champagne. Be sure to try one of the bar’s afternoon tea-inspired cocktails; the g ’n’ Tea Martini with earl grey-infused Hendrick’s gin and a tonic reduction is a hightlight. Atlantic Bar, Hotel atlantic Kempinski Hamburg, an der alster 72-79, 20099 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 288 8862, kempinski.com

condi Lou nge

With its warm wood, earth-toned fabrics and retro-patterned upholstery, Hamburg’s intimate condi Lounge is designed for relaxation. The drinks menu favours the fner globalblue.com

things in life, ofering mimosas, kir royals and Bellinis, while the nightly champagne happy hour ofers a fne vintage at reduced rates. Condi Lounge, Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten, Jungfernstieg 9-14, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3494 3316, fairmont-hvj.de

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Ba r dac a io

British-themed Bar dacaio, in the heart of Hamburg, has a suitably refned interior with polished oak fooring, regency-style wallpaper and rich leather upholstery. The barâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s British globalblue.com

infuences are also in evidence throughout its extensive drinks menu; the range of fne vintage whiskies is particularly impressive, while classic cocktails are also available. Bar DaCaio, The george, Barcastrasse 3, 22087 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 280 0300, thegeorge-hotel.de

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G U I D E | 73

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Hamburg, with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/hamburg or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

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Gerhofstrasse & Hohe Bleichen TR

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N TUEH L E T W I EF

PETRA TEUFEL ●

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SELECTED STORES IN GÄNSEMARKT PASSAGE: BUTLERS DIVA TRAUMKLEIDER ELB HAMBURG GÄNSEMARKT PARFÜMERIE GÖRTZ 17 JUN GUYS & DOLLS LABEL & TRENDS LES PETITS MAISON DE PARIS MERCEDEH-SHOES PANDORA QUARTIER 50 SIGNUM STORE UHRZEIT.ORG

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Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre

U-Bahn

S H O P | 77

Mono ConCept Store

BuCHerer one of the leaders in the Swiss watch and jewellery sector, Bucherer has a prestigious reputation. the company was established by Carl-Friedrich Bucherer in 1888 and is still family-run today, resulting in a collection that is steeped in tradition and a team of staf who are experts in their feld. Bucherer, Jungfernstieg 25, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343467, bucherer.com for map go to page 79

Hamburg’s Mono Concept Store has long been a popular haunt for the city’s most stylish residents. the store stocks a vast range, including fashion, accessories and homeware, with particular emphasis on Scandinavian, Dutch and French labels. Mono Concept Store, rosenhofstrasse 5, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 7699 3101, mono-concept.com

Grosse Bleichen

HU HE

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DÜ ST EN ST RA

CERAMIC ART L MUJI AL STOFFKONTOR JENNY BRODERSEN RW E TOP-US U

SELECTED STORES IN KAUFMANNSHAUS:

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ALTER ST EIN

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CHARLOTTE HH FLECK MODELLHÜTE MONIKA STORE 4 KIDS WOHNGEFÜHL

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MODEHAUS A. STEEN ●

Hanse Viertel

SELECTED STORES IN BLEICHENHOF:

●

L E IC H E

JO MALONE BY HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE ● JUWELIER HANSEN ● BASLER ● GOLFINO ● MEPHISTO ● 1.2.3 TEXTILVERTRIEBS ●

THA

BARBOUR BREE CHEZ ELLES DELSEY DOUGLAS EINS ZWEI DREI GÖRTZ HANSE HAUS HAMBURG CLASSICS JACQUES BRITT KIRCHHOFF DONNA KIRCHHOFF ESTABLISHED KONPLOTT P.98

LACOSTE LA MODA LEYSIEFFER MOOTZ NOMINATION OPTIKER CARL PANDORA ROECKL SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY SANSIBAR SCHACHT & WESTERICH TABACALERA HANSEATICA TOTT VEGAS BUBA SCHUH ● WMF

S TA D

SELECTED STORES IN HANSE VIERTEL:

W ER

R RA

SELECTED STORES IN GALLERIA: BAGGER & GEHRING BREMEN BURBERRY CASHMERE WORLD TEE-HANDELS-KONTOR

78 | G U I D E

Jungfernstieg & Alsterarkaden GÄ

HERMANN STEGMANN ● A R ● ROTH’S ALTE ENGLISH APOTHEKE DOUGLAS ● ● AMERICAN APPAREL LANGHAGEN & HARNISCH ● ● OPTIKER BODE ALLIGATOR LEDERWAREN ● SCHUHKAY ● ● NIVEA HAUS VERO MODA ● JEAND HEUR EMIL ● AUST DRESS ● TR CIRO ● A B C-S SCHUHHAUS PRANGE ● P.44 LIU JO ● CHOPARD ● RENÉ LEZARD ●

SELECTED STORES IN ALSTERHAUS:

1,2,3, TEXTILVERTRIEBS BREE BRIGITTE VON BOCH EYECATCHER H&M HUGO BOSS KARSTADT LONGCHAMP M. NIEMYER OSCHÄTZCHEN IM ALSTERHAUS

Hamburger Hof

O GR

I LE

ROBBE & BERKING ● DONNA ●

Alsterhaus

APPLE ● SALAMANDER ● WEMPE ● LLOYD ● TEE GSCHWENDNER ● HEMDENSPEZI ● N MEISSEN ● DE CROCS ● KA GODIVA CHOCOLATIER ● R OREA LINGERIE ● E R A ALSTERARKADEN APOTHEKE ● S T BERNSTEINLADEN WALTER WITZKI ● AL

BREUNING TRAURINGLOUNGE FIL A FIL DANIELS & KORFF GERRY WEBER GÖRTZ 17 HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE KLOCKMANN LEVI’S PETITE POUPETTE SHOWROOM HAMBURG STARLIGHT FEINE DAMENWÄSCHE TABACALERA HANSEATICA TITAN REISEGEPÄCK TORQUATO

BUCHERER ●

P.77

SELECTED STORES IN HAMBURGER HOF:

R UE

Neuer Wall T AD CH 6 PO P.4 DE I E A BY N G IG HM EJ IE S ES SC S L LA E D E LD ER ST KE UG CH LL N GO M EL & PA L DO RS WI ER ● P O E Y G O & OE I N I E R A / GF ● FR N GE L EL N N ● M A DA I N K U W E R J U OX ●● ● L A LV / J E T C O ● C A M I DA / & G E E G AO ● ● TU LI NY B ● E O MS A T Z ● M OSS ● C A F FA R O ● TI S HO B AS Ö S ● R S G ● ● CO R A G O OM RE IKE P ● ZA HU G T H P.34E S P P T A M U F ●● ● ● IN A N R L O C H T R AC AR O OH M EL NG GU M ON ● AM M X R P B LO & TT OR ● ● MA GE AG M D UI L DS ER ● UN RIS S V RR CA FE IN RTI E ● FE ● AK UI EL M / WC A S S A R I ● ● LO U R S OR E IC AH A LG IT Z ● NC ● L A D ’ T CH N BR R E U HE ● T LA ● T O LVA Y N E B I D S .W U A ● TB ● SA L A RV D ER W S C HC A DC C I I ● ST ON ● ● K A N EN S M RG PO ER E GU T T S ● ● SA N D I BE DU È ● ST IL V OR R R J HL O M EN ● PE ● K A O L F C L E AC K M A Ü M ER S Y ● DA S I H I C HE R R I E ● W ON L A ER R BU BR AS ● ● M N LI NN RB TE /M HS PE ● ● A E SÖ U T O A V B W A R L P AT HE ● U AM N ● AV E J L O L I .42 C R EG N A ● SC LL ● E D S E E P A IG O Z PIA TU A ● M I K E W I L D R O I E N E R LG N ●● PO SS EC G O M P SI S ● A L E LY FL A E IU NE L N L

GST

ENT W

LU N

FUHL

AME

LI GN ER M

P.46

● CHRIST

A+

RI BB

ÖN

POSTER RATHA USST R A S S E ● GALERIE

SCHAUENBURGERSTR.

PELZERSTR.

B+

TH RA

●

M US

CLOSED ●

● BUTIK

Global Blue Retailer Restaurant

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre

Featured In This Issue

SHOP Recommendation

L●

●

E●

!●

TE AL

ÖB

ET TE

.E ST

USBRÜCK

Marinehof

S TA DT H A

● BOGNER

●

L D EN E ● BA NE EL M LZ KE ● UX R L ● ER PE AH AN E F K RA CA ÜC AIN T EF ● R C AL S ÜC ST OS M O N B RC T● ● L AC N B R RY Z R TA I LI SØ HE MA BI ● ● STE BER C HA EL

IE TE

W ER

R UE

N LI

Department Store

S H O P | 79

Wempe The diverse yet universally high-quality timepieces and jewellery available from Wempe have helped the company to become one of Germany’s most prestigious brands. The label was established in 1878 and since then has cultivated a distinctive collection of exquisite timepieces and standout jewellery. Wempe, Jungfernstieg 8, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3344 8824, wempe.com

Poststrasse OS

E AT

STR

SE AS

TIE

NS ER GF UN

UE NE

● DIESEL ● TOMMY HILFIGER

N H E ● H&M

ST IE

HOHE B

RN G

E BL

● GÖRTZ 17

COMMA ● STEFANEL ● TOM TAILOR ●

PEAK PERFORMANCE ● CLOSED ● TIMBERLAND ●

L E IC H E

ST R A SSE

GST

HOF

LU N

GER

TR. STR A B C-

A. FELDENKIRCHEN ●

AME

ESPRIT ● A. FELDENKIRCHEN ● BELLY BUTTON ● UMANI ●

N EU E-A BC S

GÄ

BÜ

VA L E N T I N S K A M P

BL EI

● NAVYBOOT ● SAHLING

CH BR ÜC KE

HAU S B R Ü C

S TA DT

● CAMPER ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● ABERCROBIE & FITCH STUART WEITZMANN ● ● ZARA FLORENCEMODA ●

● BOSS L N AL DE R WPUMA ● R K A E U A NE ER ST AL

N LI

80 | G U I D E

Mönckebergstrasse & Bergstrasse SELECTED STORES IN EUROPA PASSAGE:

GAMESTOP GÖRTZ H&M HALLHUBER HANDELSHAUS LÄGEL HÖGL SHOE FASHION IDEE. CREATIVMARKT INFLAGRANTE JACKPOT KULT L’OCCITANE MONSOON / ACCESSORIZE MORE & MORE OAKLEY ODLO ONE GREEN ELEPHANT PANDORA PAPETERIE BATHELT

AKTIV SHOE BETTEN SASS BIANCO FOOTWEAR BIBA BENETTON BIJOU BRIGITTE BONITA BOSE CECIL CHRIST DOUGLAS ECCO EDC ETERNA GABOR-LLOYD

PILGRIM SIERCKE SCHMUCK STREET ONE STREET SUPER SHOES TALLY WEIJL TAMARIS TCHIBO TE THALIA THE HAIR COMPANY THEO WORMLAND TOM TAILOR TOMMY CRYSTAL TOMMY HILFIGER DENIM WMF ZERO

E 1,2,3 TEXTILVERTRIEBS APRIORI BIBA DBH KARSTADT FEINKOST SWAROVSKI ST

● EUROPA APOTHEKE

STR LEN L IL

Karstadt Galeria Kaufof

STEIN STRA SSE

APRIORI BIBA PANDORA TABAKBÖRSE IM KAUFHOF N IE

A SSE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre

DER

NST

B U R CH A R D S

A SSE WIL L Y- B R A N DT- S T R

Department Store

● SATURN

● KRAEMER

MÄRKLIN MASSIMO DUTTI PRINCESSE TAM TAM SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY STEIFF GALERIE STRACOLAND SWAROVSKI TOWN HOUSE

Global Blue Retailer

● MÖ-CITY APOTHEKE

A N DT-S T R

E P EL

D STWIETE

W IL LY- B R

SELECTED STORES IN GALERIA KAUFHOF

K AT T R

BR AN CH ENS TR.

BADEORT CALVIN KLEIN COMPAGNIE COLONIALE H -GALERIE JACKPOT MARC O’ POLO

A SSE

BUGEN HAGEN STR.

. SELECTED STORES IN LEVANTEHAUS:

ANSON’S ●

STR RA

DOUGLAS ●

Levantehaus

● C&A

IE D E

Appelrathcüpper

● BONITA ● FOOT LOCKER HERRENAUSSTATTER ● BRAUN ● YVES ROCHER

● THOMAS I-PUNKT

SCHM

● CARL PREDIGER ● SNIPES

● FIELMANN

● ENERGIE

● JACK WOLFSKIN / GLOBE-TROTTER ● ANZUG-OUTLET

GSTR

● PIMKIE

K EBER

● ORSAY

MÖNC

IITTALLA ●

MAC ●

GÖRTZ ●

● ELSNER SCHUH ● ESPRIT FRIEDO ● WIESENHAVERN ● H&M ● MANGO ● ADIDAS ● FOSSIL ● WMF

R TO ER Karstadt ST

RAS

ZARA ●

GST

PETIT BATEAU ●

BER MÖNCKE

MONSOON/ACCESSORIZE ●

BENETTON ● CHRIST ●

SPORTSHECK ●

MONKI ●

WEEKDAY ●

ARA ●

TCHIBO ●

M DO

Peek & Cloppenburg

Europa Passage

E SS

● MALVIN ● FOTO-GREGOR ● SØR OSCAR LENIUS CLOSED DAMEN ● ● GÖRTZ 17 ● BUDNIKOWSKY IWAN

GR OS SE REI

R SELECTED STORES IN AN DS KARSTADT: E

● ULRICH STEIN

HERRENAUSSTATTER BRAUN ● HAGEL THE HAIR COMPANY ●

to put a price on. we have created the Deep Blue Programme in partnership with the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, to preserve ocean environments in the Maldives and the Cook islands, home to some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most endangered marine species. To ďŹ nd out more visit globalblue.com/oceans

82 | G U I D E

Designer Outlet Neumünster HOw tO get tHeRe By car From Hamburg: head north on the A7. take exit 15 for Neumünster Süd and continue on the B205, following the signs for Designer Outlet.

Designer Outlet Neumünster, Oderstrasse 10, 24539 Neumünster, +49 (0)4321 558 6880, mcarthurglen.com

Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

From Neumünster: follow Altonaer Strasse (K16), turn left on to Oderstrasse and follow the signs directing you to the front entrance. By bus From Neumünster: take the 7 or 77, which leave from in front of the railway station.

PeRFect DAy

By train 10am

12pm

Begin by admiring the luxurious leather bags and exquisite timepieces on ofer at Fossil. Look out for the new jewellery collection in store.

emulate efortless LA style at Michael Kors. the US designer specialises in classic knits and formfattering denim.

4pm

2pm

As well as its iconic Swiss Army knife, Victorinox stocks cutlery, watches, fragrances and fashion.

take a break at Tackmann café, which serves Schärf cofee as well as a range of hot and cold snacks.

From Hamburg: take the Re21020 to Neumünster. From Kiel: take the Re21023 to Neumünster. By taxi the journey takes approximately 40 minutes from Hamburg, Lübeck and Kiel.

84 | G U I D E

Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when on the go 1

1. Regional Tourist Ofce Hamburg Tourismus GmbH, Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, hamburg-tourism.de/en/ 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000

EMERGENCY SERVICES

USEFUL PHRASES

Emergency: 112 (ambulance and fre); 110 (police) Doctor: +49 (0)116117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 (0)116116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards)

Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte I would like... ∙ Ich möchte... Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...? Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben?

3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets head to hvv.de or m.hvv.de; alternatively you can scan the QR code

PHOTO: GNTB/RAiNeR KiedROwsKi

4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train, go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information 5. Taxi To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de 6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com

DID YOU KNOW...? Hamburg is often known as the City of Rivers due to its extensive network of rivers and canals. With more than 2,500 bridges, the city has more river crossings than Venice or Amsterdam.

Above: the Alsterarkaden overlooking the waters of the Kleine Alster (Litle Alster)

S H O P | 85

Hamburg Airport After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Hamburg airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts, souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase.

Gosch Sylt Refuel before take of with the fne seafood served at the airport’s Gosch Sylt restaurant. A chic décor of dark stone, stainless steel, glass and polished teak is the ideal setting for the high-quality cuisine on ofer; choose lobster or oysters with a chilled glass of Champagne or a simple sandwich flled with prawns or salmon.

Tom Tailor Stop at Tom Tailor’s Hamburg airport boutique to admire its extensive collection of wearable fashion for the whole family. The label is known for its casual, fuss-free interpretations of the latest trends, and the company produces 12 collections every year to ensure it stays at the forefront of contemporary fashion. Think a denim-based wardrobe, complemented by shirts, trousers and a range of accessories - a pair of Tom Tailor jeans is a trusted wardrobe staple.

Imaginarium is the best place to pick up a gift for any younger members of the family. This bright and colourful child-friendly store stocks toys that are designed to be as educational as they are fun. Every item on display has been carefully selected by a team of education experts to ensure that they promote development and social values, while high quality is guaranteed throughout the range. Expect to fnd painting kits, teasing puzzles and musical instruments among the oferings.

Imaginarium

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 92 / 95

94 / 95

Refund Locations Berlin Tegel Airport 6

2 1

Berlin Schönefeld Airport

Hamburg Airport A19

B20

A18

Terminal 2

Refund location details:

Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, landside, second foor to the right of the café bar. Go to customs before check-in. Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (Customer Service Centre, 5th foor), 10178 Berlin

C16

C17

C15

Plaza

C08

C07

Terminal 1

Key

Hamburg Airport Global Blue Terminal 1, afer security control, at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Go to check-in frst, ask for your labelled luggage and take it with you to customs. Customs stamps for luggage only at Terminal 1. Customs stamps for hand luggage behind security control at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service Centre, go to customs before check-in. Customs is situated beside the Global Blue Ofce

C18

Customs stamp

Global Blue customer services

Landside

Tax Free mailbox

Check-in area

Airside

Security control

Stairs

Information

Translations Русский ПеРевод 48: Covered In Glory

История с продолжением Холли Суэйн рассказывает о великолепных торговых пассажах Гамбурга, в которых мода сосуществует с историей

Гамбург славится своими модными бутиками и блестящими торговыми центрами. Однако особую прелесть шоппингу в этом городе добавляют исторические торговые пассажи. Многие из них насчитывают сотни лет, и хотя бы ради роскошной архитектуры и globalblue.com

удивительного оформления этих зданий их уже стоит посетить. Ассортимент поражает воображение: здесь и модные новинки, и традиционные немецкие сувениры ручной работы, и местные деликатесы. Кроме того, подобные галереи магазинов составляют значительную часть культурного наследие Гамбурга, вольного торгового города-порта. Mellin Passage был построен в середине 19 века и считается самым старинным в городе. Его несложно найти неподалеку от бульвара с роскошными бутиками Neuer Wall. Пассаж украшен великолепными фресками ар-нуво, поэтому будет интересен в равной степени поклонникам искусства и шоппинга. Многие магазины работают здесь с самого начала, другие могут поведать весьма очаровательные истории. Например, известно, что книжный магазин Felix Jud основал скупой коллекционер книг по имени Фелиск Джуд в 1923 году. В 1950е компания переехала в Mellin Passage, однако ассортимент не изменился: это первые издания книг, собрания сочинений и старинные путеводители. Достойна особого внимания лавка KPM (Königliche PorzellanManufaktur): еще с 18 века она привозит в Гамбург изысканный фарфор ручной работы из Берлина. Неподалеку от городской ратуши расположена не менее очаровательная торговая галерея Hanse-Viertel, построенная знаменитыми немецкими архитекторами Майнхардом фон Герканом и Фольквином Маргом в конце 1970-х. Ее крышу венчает стеклянный купол, а в центре здания переливается декоративный земной шар весом в 13 тонн из бразильского гранита. Здесь более 60 бутиков, в том числе присутствуют международные бренды, как, например, Timberland и Stefanel. Однако интереснее всего заглянуть в независимые магазины, которые предлагают более индивидуальные вещи – от одежды, созданной на заказ, до предметов антиквариата. Обратите внимание на

органическую косметику местного производства в бутике Just Pure и не забудьте примерить обувь ручной работы Red Wing Shoes. Даже относительно современные пассажи Гамбурга стараются поддерживать традиции. Небольшой Gänsemarkt Passage населяют актуальные бренды и молодые дизайнеры, но особое внимание здесь все равно уделяют истории. Пусть название вас не смущает: не сохранилось ни одного свидетельства того, что здесь когда-либо был гусиный рынок. Однако, очевидно, это место было важным центром социальной жизни в начале 18 века: площадь украшают величественный Оперный театр и знаменитый бронзовый памятник немецкому поэту Готхольду Эфраиму Лессингу. Короткая прогулка приведет вас к Levantehaus – еще одной торговой аркаде, которая соединяет добрые традиции и современные тенденции. Она была построена в начале 20 века для местного корабельного магната и представляет собой оградительное сооружение. Конечно, с тех пор здание полностью перестроили: теперь это современный торговый центр с модными брендами, изысканными ресторанами и роскошным отелем. Посетив все эти исторические заведения, понимаешь: именно старинные пассажи делают шоппинг в Гамбурге столь разнообразным. Они органично дополняют крупнейшие в Европе современные торговые комплексы, которыми славится этот город. Например, молл Galeria Kauäof в самом центре города многие знают как главный немецкий торговый центр, где есть все – от одежды и ювелирных украшений до детских игрушек и кухонной утвари. Не менее сильное впечатление производит торговый дом Alsterhaus. Его история началась в 1897 году, и в наши дни это четырехэтажное здание по-прежнему остается магнитом для поклонников высококлассной моды и косметики. Здесь собраны все ведущие международные бренды – от Chloé и Dior до Chanel, к услугам посетителей – индивидуальные стилисты, салон красоты,

эксклюзивный ресторан и бар шампанского. Чем бы вы ни интересовались, немецкими мастерами или международными брендами, в гамбургских прелестных исторических пассажах и огромных торговых моллах найдется все. Можно не сомневаться: помимо незабываемого шоппинга, они подарят радость знакомства с богатой культурой и традицией этого многогранного города. hanseviertel.de, gaensemarkt-passage.de, levantehaus.de 56: Hamburg’s Cashmere Queen

Королева Кашемира

Немецкий дизайнер Ирис фон Арним делится со Стивеном Дойгом секретами привлекательности кашемира, а также рассказывает о своем флагманском магазине и любимом городе Гамбурге Часто бытует мнение о том, что трикотаж, хоть и отличается большим комфортом и удобством, сильно уступает другим материалам в эстетическом плане. Пожалуй, такой вывод могут сделать лишь те, кто никогда не видел шикарные мастерские Ирис фон Арним. С момента открытия своего дела в 1976 году ей удалось приобрести безупречную репутацию благодаря созданию необычайно стильных, элегантных и чувственных вещей. Дизайнер работает с шерстью и кашемиром, создавая широкий спектр изделий – от платьев, с фирменным лого, до практически прозрачных кардиганов и топов свободного покроя, наглядно демонстрирующих все преимущества вязаной одежды. Если сказанное до сих пор звучит не достаточно убедительно, стоит упомянуть недавнюю совместную работу дизайнера с супермоделью Клаудией éиффер по созданию коллекции одежды из кашемира, которая получила очень теплые отзывы. Энтузиазм госпожи фон Арним не знает границ: «То, чем я занимаюсь, доставляет мне безумное удовольствие, ведь, мне приходится создавать абсолютно все, включая форму, образ и стиль. Я не просто

покупаю ткань и затем ее раскраиваю – мне приходится создавать все с самого начала. К тому же, вряд ли найдется еще материал, такой же приятный на ощупь как кашемир, и воплощающийся в такие же привлекательные оттенки». Идея создания женской одежды пришла к дизайнеру после возвращения из долгого путешествия, за время которого она повидала немало вязаных изделий и без ума в них влюбилась. С большим вниманием отнеслась Фон Арним к выбору места для своего флагманского магазина. Несмотря на то, что сама дизайнер проживает в Гамбурге, магазин решено было открыть на острове Зюльт, расположенном у северных границ Германии. По ее словам, одной из причин для такого решения послужил: «суровый приморский климат, в условиях которого без кашемирового свитера просто не обойтись. Я была уверена, что найду здесь нужных клиентов». Несмотря на свое месторасположение, магазин по сей день остается в центре внимания. Совсем недавно дизайнер провела здесь реставрацию интерьера, украсив его оригинальной мебелью и произведениями живописи. Родной город дизайнера Гамбург также создает благоприятную почву для творчества. «Меня восхищает то, с какой сдержанностью и классической элегантностью одеваются жители Гамбурга. Это тот самый стиль, который никогда не выйдет из моды. Источником вдохновения для меня служат прогулки вдоль Эльбы и нашего залива. Кроме того, меня вдохновляют цвета и формы, заимствованные у природы и архитектуры», – говорит она. Несложно проследить за тем, как все это отражается в творчестве дизайнера. Эксперименты с пропорциями приводят к появлению в трикотажных изделиях скульптурных элементов таких, как большие манжеты, широкие стоячие воротники, большие карманы и элементы крупной вязки. «Нашу команду объединяет общая страсть – создавать и воплощать новые техники, структуры и формы вне зависимости от скоротечных трендов», – globalblue.com

говорит дизайнер, рассказывая о своем смелом подходе к вязаной одежде. «Изделия Iris von Arnim воплощают традицию, мастерство и высочайшее качество. Мы создаем классические элегантные вещи, которые можно смело носить не один сезон и однажды передать следующему поколению». В условиях скоротечности мировой моды наших дней такие настроения не могут не восхищать. Изысканные кашемировые изделия, сшитые вручную с большой любовью, во все времена ценились и считались большой роскошью. Тактильное качество трикотажа имеет большое значение для фон Арним: «Самый любимый момент дизайнерского процесса для меня настает, когда мы получаем первые образцы, и я могу их примерить. Для меня очень важно то, какие ощущения вызывает трикотаж при соприкосновении с телом. Именно это качество делает его таким особенным». Немаловажным фактором для бренда, выпускающего одежду для женщин, является пол главного дизайнера. «Я создаю женскую одежду с позиции женщины. Поклонница Iris von Arnim – это сильная и решительная женщина. Она гордится своей женственностью и старается ее подчеркнуть. Иногда ей хочется выглядеть нарядно, надев платье и каблуки, а иногда – быть просто незаметной и одеть теплую кашемировую кофту, согревающую тело и душу. Все эти ощущения мне знакомы и находят отражение в моих коллекциях». В последнее время фон Арним усиленно работает над созданием новой линии мужской одежды, а также над продвижением своего бренда по всему миру. Однако это вовсе не означает, что Гамбург потерял для нее особую значимость. Своим гостям она всегда советует «обязательно отправиться на прогулку вдоль набережной залива. Все здесь одухотворяет: вода, небо, корабли; когда я стою у «ворот мира» (так здесь называют залив), я чувствую себя частью Гамбурга. Архитектура здесь уникальна: по соседству друг с другом находятся столетний район складов (Speicherstadt), шедевры Хади Тегерани и

концертный зал, спроектированный бюро Herzog & de Meuron». Как заметили бы некоторые, городской пейзаж Гамбурга столь же разнообразен, как и трикотаж, созданный фон Арним. irisvonarnim.de

62: Bright And Bold

Яркие и смелые

Ведущие немецкие бренды решили покончить с минимализмом и увлеклись насыщенными цветами и смелыми принтами, рассказывает Доминик Фенн Немецких модельеров всегда отличало стремление к простому стилю, классическому крою, элегантным скульптурным силуэтам и чистым линиям. Минимализм достиг своего пика в 1990-х годах, и на протяжении последних нескольких сезонов его влияние в модной индустрии было весьма заметно. И все же, многие бренды, долгое время придерживавшиеся сдержанного стиля, поддались общей тенденции и рискнули обогатить свои коллекции сезона весна-лето 2014 яркими цветами и смелыми принтами. Бесспорная королева сдержанности Джил Сандер вернулась на пост креативного директора своего бренда сразу после ухода Рафа Симонса. Во время показов на Миланской Неделе моды весенне-летняя коллекция бренда не выходила за рамки оттенков черного, белого и серого, за исключением нескольких ярких и красочных образов, вдохновленных работами итальянского художника-концептуалиста Алигьеро Боэтти. В 2009 году бренд Escada приобрела Мегха Миттал – мать двух девочек, которой довольно часто приходится путешествовать. Она во многом похожа на поклонниц своего бренда, и ее руководство приносит много интересных результатов. В 2012 году Миттал пригласила на роль креативного директора Даниэля Вингейта, задачей которого было модернизировать бренд, сохранив при этом истинный образ Escada. По мнению критиков, ему

удалось заметно освежить коллекции. Многие ключевые образы обрели простоту, появились строгие костюмы и вернулись яркие краски, преобладавшие в ранних коллекциях Escada. Яркий пример – красивое вечернее платье в пол, украшенное перьями, из коллекции осень-зима 2013. Отдельная заслуга Вингейта лежит в создании чувства эскапизма при помощи смелых принтов. В коллекции весна-лето 2014 превалируют анималистичные принты, а также графические узоры в виде цветов и экзотических фруктов. Сюда вошли пышные платья, костюмы и вечерние наряды. Классические коллекции марки Boss обрели новый вид, на создание которого вдохновило стилистическое мастерство художников-сюрреалистов. Привычная чистота линий, элегантность кроя и сдержанная детализация подверглись небольшому пересмотру. В этом сезоне бренд экспериментирует с аллюзиями и парадоксальным сочетанием форм, подражая таким мастерам сюрреализма, как Ман Рэй и Рене Магритт. Подобно тому, как сюрреалисты отвергали всяческие границы, так и Boss выходит за рамки привычных форм со своей коллекцией повседневной и вечерней одежды. Вырез двубортного пиджака, например, напоминает вырез повседневного пальто. Цветочные узоры на платьях выглядят так, словно их нарисовали от руки; цветовая гамма довольно сдержанная – от бирюзового до серого, чтобы не отвлекать внимание от дизайна. История немецкой моды уходит корнями в глубокую древность. Более 700 лет назад один из жителей Германии явил миру то, что принято считать первым модным каталогом. Бухгалтер Маттеус Шварц, родившийся в Аугсбурге в 1497 году, прославился тем, что нанял специального художника, обязанностью которого было детально фиксировать все наряды Шварца, начиная с 23 до 63 лет. Созданный альбом остается одним из самых уникальных документов в истории моды. «В те далекие времена так же, как и сейчас, люди использовали одежду, чтобы выражать свои взгляды и эмоции», –

поясняет проф. Улинка Рублэк, автор книги «Культурная идентичность в Европе эпохи Возрождения». По ее мнению, даже тогда одежда передавала фантазии, стремления и тревоги, поэтому Шварц всегда стремился использовать новые аксессуары, ткани или наряды оригинального кроя. Наступивший 2014 год ознаменовал новый этап немецкой моды, характерный обилием смелых принтов, ярких красок и необычных форм. jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com 86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными. globalblue.com

美文翻译

48: Covered In Glory 荣光里的汉堡汉堡的绚丽购物拱廊便是天堂的模样，历史与时尚在此交汇融合，令你沉醉不愿醒，Holly Swayne如是说汉堡一直来以高端精品店，华贵高雅的购物商厦而闻名于世。然而，你或不知道这城市的传统拱廊里有无限惊喜待你发觉。这些历史建筑可推溯到几百年前，雕梁画栋，煌煌金灿，每一细节皆有大文章，可令你细细琢磨。此外，这里的购物环境可称得上奢侈，商品绝对不失上流品味，从新潮服饰到传统悠久的德国手工艺品，都精美别致。拱廊里窄窄的小店铺经营着最地道的当地美食，香气四溢，令人垂涎。汉堡的历史传承有序，作为商业城市以及贸易港口，汉堡一直以来都在德国版图上有着极其重要的地位。这些拱廊便是这光辉岁月的历史见证。全市现存最古老的拱廊是Mellin 通道，一条小走廊如今是奢华购物大道Neuer Wall。拱廊历史可以追溯到19 世纪中叶，这里装饰着新艺术风格壁画，浓郁的艺术气氛令人神往，艺术爱好者和游客们皆在此流连忘返。许多店铺在长廊建造伊始便已存在，随着时光变迁，故去的岁月与当下生活息息相关，嵌入历史的脉络里。著名藏书家Felix Jud在1923年开办了一家同名书屋，并在1950年代移址于此，近百年来，始终不懈地为爱好者们提供无可挑剔的初版书籍，珍本善本以及古董旅行书。在这里，灯光暗暗，书香弥漫，令人宁心静气。另外一家老店则是KPM ( Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur)，该品牌在柏林创建，自18 世纪以来，其手绘瓷器风靡之势长盛不衰。 Hanse -Viertel拱廊也是个绝好去处。此拱廊位于历史悠久的市政厅仅一步之遥，由著名德国建筑师Meinhard von Gerkan与Volkwin Marg 通力合作，在 70 年代末建成。宏伟的玻璃穹顶之下聚合 60多家精品店，一进长廊，重达13吨的全球雕塑夺人眼球，此雕塑由巴西花岗岩制成，雄浑磅礴，气势逼人。国际品牌应有尽有，比如 Timberland 及 Stefanel 。然而，拱廊的真正魅力在于星罗棋布的独立精品店。在此，你好比大海拾贝，处处可捡得惊喜。从定制时装到古董清玩，这些商店更具清新品质与优雅品位，有着浓厚的个人特质。值得一淘莫过于 Just Pure的有机护肤品，或是Red Wing Shoes的手工鞋，皆是精工细作，品质上乘。哪怕是现代拱廊也充溢着古典况味。Gänsemarkt（鹅市）拱廊里熙熙攘攘回响着历史的回音，与时尚品牌和青春设计师交相成趣。除却名字，此市场与鹅

56: Hamburg’s Cashmere Queen 汉堡羊绒皇后

SHOP杂志的 Stephen Doig 采访针织业元老Iris von Arnim，畅谈羊绒的魅力，她地段不凡的旗舰店，以及这座城市带给她的启发人们对于针织的通常认识 — — 温暖、舒适、保守——在Iris von Arnim欣欣向荣的工作室里被完全打破。从1976 年开业起，她就致力于打造时髦、优雅、乃至性感的设计。使用羊毛与羊绒制作出的一系列作品——从印满 logo 的 T恤连衣裙，到轻薄摇曳、充满流动感的羊毛衫与上装，大刀阔斧地拓宽了针织的可能性。如果这还不够，那么她最近与超模 Claudia Schifer合资成立的羊绒系列，更巩固了其在业界的地位。设计师对于她最挚爱媒介的热情鼓舞人心：“我觉得它有趣，因为你可以决定其外观、造型与风格。并非是将买来的布料进行裁剪，而是自己去创造一切。此外，没有比羊绒触感更好的材质，无论什么色彩在羊绒上都会显得明亮几分，”她表示。在广泛游历后，von Arnim首先投身的是女装，在从中发现了自己对于手工编织的热情后，将其纳入事业版图。她谨慎挑选自己旗舰店的位置。虽然设计师本

PHOTO: André HemsTedT And Tine reimer / iris vOn Arnim

并无半分关联，却是自18世纪以来汉堡的主要社交场所。如今这个广场是汉堡恢弘歌剧院所在。广场前立有德国诗人Gotthold Ephraim Lessing 吟哦远眺的铜像。几步之遥，便是Levantehaus拱廊，传统与现代结合在此完美。这个拱廊初建于20 世纪早期，当时为本地著名船商所有。如今完全翻新改造为一个现代化的购物中心，入驻了时尚品牌，高档餐厅和一家奢华酒店。拱廊购物中心是汉堡时尚生活中不可或缺的部分，为这个城市钩织了丰富的历史内里。除却这些古朴拱廊，汉堡拥有欧洲最大的大型购物商场。以 Galeria Kaufhof为例，这个商厦位于汉堡中心，作为德国最顶级的百货公司，时装、珠宝、玩具、厨具琳琅满目。Alsterhaus商场同样不可错过，自1897年成立以来，这座4层楼的百货商店便是高端时尚粉丝们的天堂。所有顶级时装品牌都可以找到，从Chloé 到迪奥、香奈儿。这里的个人购物服务用心周到，美容沙龙令你焕然一新，餐厅和香槟酒吧更是尊贵典雅，小憩亦可尽情。无论你来此寻觅传统的德国艺术品或国际品牌，汉堡便是你的天堂。古雅美丽的历史拱廊，百货巨头都提供无与伦比的购物体验，优雅精致的风格一以贯之。这便是汉堡——历史悠远，文化多元的大都市。 hanseviertel.de, gaensemarkt-passage.de, levantehaus.de 人常驻汉堡，但决定将店开在德国北部岛屿Sylt，“因为那里的海洋性气候，人们需要羊绒衫。我知道我会在那里找到正确的顾客群。”虽然地处偏远，那家店铺至今仍堪称一座枢纽——设计师最近重新进行了室内装修，来展示限量版家具与艺术品。汉堡这座繁华的城市也为设计师提供了足够的刺激与创意。“我欣赏汉堡人谨慎、古典的优雅。那是一种永远不会落伍的时尚。在沿着Elbe河和大港口散步的时候，我获得了不少启发。一般而言，我从自然与建筑中获得关于色彩与形状的灵感，”她说。这么做的结果显而易见；玩味比例的结果是充满建筑元素的针织作品，像是大袖口、筒形立领、夸张的口袋以及3D编织效果，同一系列经典元素组合在一起。 “我的团队和我对于开发新的技术、结构与廓型充满热情，对短暂的流行则毫不在意。”她在谈论起自己大胆的针织设计手法时表示。“Iris von Arnim代表传统、手工艺以及最上乘的质量。我的设计是超越时间的。我们创造可以延续多年、或许可以传给下一代的作品。”在今日的快时尚世界里，这样的执着让人钦佩；投资一件精工细作、凝结心血的手工羊绒制品，无疑是一种相对品牌与虚荣、更尊重诚实与工艺的新奢华定义。针织品的独特触觉也是von Arnim设计中的基本组成。“我在设计过程中最喜欢的步骤，就是当样品送到、亲身试穿的那一刻。我需要知道穿上新品的感觉

如何——这对我非常重要。同时这也是为何羊绒如此特别。” von Arnim的性别也是影响其为女性设计的重要因素，“我从女性的角度为女性设计。Iris von Arnim 的女人们是有主见、有力量的。她喜欢并乐于强调自己女人味的一面。有时候女人们就是想穿高跟鞋和连衣裙。但有时候只想躲在一件宽大的羊绒衫里，包裹起自己的身体与灵魂。我对此深有感受，所以在作品中反映出这点。” Von A rnim 近期在尝试男装系列，她同时兼顾两条线，并在全世界拓展事业。然而这并不意味汉堡在她心中不再特别。她建议旅行者们“一定要去港口，看看那里的河水、天空和集装箱货船——当我站在‘通往世界的大门’（正如人们对港口的别称），感觉自己与汉堡紧紧相连。那里的建筑也十分独特；可以找到拥有100 多年历史的仓库区，紧邻着Hadi Teherani的新潮建筑，以及Herzog & de Meuron 音乐厅。”不妨说，那里的景观就如同von Arnim专业锻造的针织品，丰富而多样。 irisvonarnim.de

62: Bright And Bold 光明前景一些德国领先的时装品牌正远离极简主义，开始拥抱色彩与印花，Dominique Fenn报道德国时装设计师们向来被视为先锋时尚的表率，专注于塑造极简、优雅的廓型与干净的线条。这种极简主义在1990年代达到高峰，此后的几季中这些主题被不断重新演绎，然而许多曾高举低调美学旗帜的领导品牌，在 2014 年春/夏开始引入活泼印花与大胆色彩。无可争议的极简女王 Jil Sander，在缺席三个季度后随着Raf Simon 的离开，重回同名品牌。在品牌的米兰时装周发布上，春/夏主色调依旧是黑白灰，然而有几个造型都受意大利概念艺术家 Alighiero Boetti启发，使用了喷薄而出的色彩与印花， Escada在2009年被Megha Mittal收购。作为经常旅行的母亲，设计师本身就是品牌所试图装扮的女性；所以她的影响力正孕育着有趣的成果。在 2012 年，M it ta l 请来 Dan iel Wingate，帮助 Escada在忠于品牌历史的同时变得更现代化。批评家们赞扬新的创意总监为系列带来新鲜感；他简化了主要造型，并引入了精干的西装与职业装，同时召回了Escada早期设计中的奢华感觉，例如2013秋/ 冬系列中镶满羽毛的华丽长晚礼服。通过大胆印花营造出脱离尘世的感觉，也是 W i n g ate 所擅长的。在 2 014 春/夏季节，动物印花——像是斑马条纹与长颈鹿斑点——与爆炸几何 globalblue.com

花卉以及菠萝图案同场出现。这个系列包括蓬蓬裙，西装裤以及晚礼服等。 Boss则借鉴超现实主义艺术运动风格，为经典作品赋予新生。这个以简洁线条、正统剪裁与充满灵气与巧妙的细节著称的品牌，开始在标准造型上做文章。这一季品牌以幻想为主题，向Man Ray与René Magritte 等伟大的超现实主义艺术家致敬。正如超现实主义者拒绝被限制，品牌的新系列同样超越陈规，将休闲装与晚装的界限模糊。譬如，双排扣羊毛西装的领口开始模仿休闲外套的设计。无袖连衣裙上被放大的玫瑰图案宛若手绘，并且用色节制—— 从粉蓝色到灰色——从而避免干扰设计。德国与创意时尚的关系，可以追溯得比多数人以为的更久远。700多年前，正是一位德国人创作出被认为史上第一本时装书。Matthäus Schwarz是一位 1497年生于奥格斯堡的会计。他受一名艺人所托，记录其从23岁到63岁的着装细节。这本记录仍旧是时装史上最独特的文献之一。期的文化认同》的作者Ulinka Ruback 表示。她解释道，即便在当年，服装也表达了幻想、知趣与忧虑。所以Schwarz 喜欢这些新配饰、材料与剪裁所带来的可能性。将目光转回2014 年，德国时尚正携印花、色彩—— 以及无比热情，进入一个新纪元。 jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com

86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（G l o b a l Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程： 1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com

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‫ات ّسمت به حركة الف ّن السيال‪ .‬اشتهرت العلمة بخطوطها النظيفة وتصاميمها الذكيّة‬ ‫الميّزة بتفاصيلها الدقيقة وتلعبت بالشكال العياريّة‪ .‬أ ّما هذا الوسم‪ ،‬فتتلعب بالخدع‬ ‫البصيّة‪ ،‬تكرياً لكبار الف ّناني السياليي أمثال مان راي ‪ Man Ray‬ورنيه مغريت‬ ‫‪ .René Magritte‬تاماً كم رفض السياليّون القيود‪ ،‬تتخطّى الجموعة الجديدة‬ ‫الحدود من خلل ملبس عمليّة ورسميّة‪ .‬عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬تقويرة العنق ف ستة صوفيّة‬ ‫مزدوجة الصدر هي نسخة عن تقويرة العنق ف معطف عمل‪ .‬كم تبدو براعم الورود‬ ‫الضخّمة عل ثوب إتوي ‪ etui‬مرسومة يدويّاً وتتد ّرج اللوان من الزرق الزاهي إل‬ ‫الرمادي – ك ل تسق أضواء التصاميم‪.‬‬ ‫تعود علقة ألانيا بالزياء البتكرة إل أبعد ما قد يتص ّوره أي إنسان‪ .‬منذ حوال ‪700‬‬ ‫رجل ألان ّأول كتاب لتصميم الزياء‪ .‬كان ماتهاوس شوارز ‪Matthäus‬‬ ‫سنة‪،‬ابتكر ٌ‬ ‫‪ Schwarz‬محاسباً‪ُ ،‬ولد ف أوغسبورغ ‪ Augsburg‬سنة ‪َ .1498‬وكّل ف ّناناً أن‬ ‫السجل من أكث‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يس ّجل بالتفصيل ما كان يرتدي من عمر ‪ 23‬إل ‪ 63‬عاماً‪ .‬وما زال ذلك‬ ‫الوثائق فراد ًة ف تاريخ الزياء‪.‬‬ ‫تقول أولينكا روبلك ‪ Ulinka Rublack‬مؤلّفة كتاب “درسنغ أب‪ :‬كلتشورال‬ ‫أيدنتيتي إن رناسنس يوروب” ‪Dressing up: Cultural Identity in‬‬ ‫‪“ :Renaissance Europe‬ف الاض استخدم الناس اللبس للتعبي عن‬ ‫عبت اللبس عن أهواء‬ ‫قيم ومشاعر كم يفعلون اليوم”‪ .‬تشح أنّه حتّى ف الاض‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫و”أحب شوارز ‪ Schwarz‬المكان ّيات التوافرة” ف أكسسوارات‬ ‫وتطلّعات وهموم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وقصات جديدة‪.‬‬ ‫ومواد ّ‬ ‫بالعودة إل سنة ‪ ،2014‬يكن القول إ ّن الزياء اللان ّية تدخل فجرا ً جديدا ً من خلل‬ ‫نقوش وألوان وحيويّة‪.‬‬ ‫‪jilsander.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com‬‬

‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 86‬‬ ‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬ ‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax‬‬ ‫‪ Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق‬ ‫التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫تنضم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫فل َم ل ّ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫تس ّوق‬ ‫‪.1‬‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫أطلب‬ ‫‪.2‬‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫عل إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب خدمة الزبائن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ‬ ‫الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم‬ ‫إداري‪ . .‬ف بعض نقاط الستداد‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم إضاف محدّد عل كل طلب استداد‬ ‫ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请注‬‬ ‫‪意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续‬‬ ‫‪费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为‬‬ ‫。‪单位收取一定数额的手续费‬‬

‫‪日本語翻訳‬‬

‫‪86: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪海外でのお買い物が免税に‬‬ ‫‪グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利‬‬ ‫‪用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に‬‬ ‫‪ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に‬‬ ‫。‪なります‬‬ ‫‪年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー‬‬ ‫。‪の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください‬‬ ‫‪手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し‬‬ ‫・‪ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル‬‬ ‫‪ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを‬‬ ‫。‪踏むだけです‬‬

‫‪1.お買い物‬‬ ‫‪お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免‬‬ ‫‪税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ‬‬ ‫。‪さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに‬‬ ‫‪2.還付請求‬‬ ‫‪ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認‬‬ ‫‪印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーのカス‬‬ ‫。‪タマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けます‬‬ ‫‪お問い合わせ：‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪€25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5‬‬ ‫‪％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額‬‬ ‫‪は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し‬‬ ‫。‪引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください‬‬ ‫‪なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付の場‬‬ ‫‪所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固定の‬‬ ‫。‪追加手数料をとられる場合があります‬‬

‫‪96‬‬

‫التقان والحرفة أهميّة أكث من العلمات التجاريّة والوضة‪.‬‬ ‫تشكّل جودة ملمس اللبس الحبوكة جزءا ً أساسيّاً من العمل بالنسبة إل فون أرمن‬ ‫لدي ف عمليّة التصميم هو عندما تصلني‬ ‫‪ .von Armin‬تقول‪“ :‬الجزء الفضّ ل ّ‬ ‫العيّنات وأج ّربها بنفس‪ .‬أو ّد أن أعرف كيف تلمس قطعة جديدة جسمي عندما‬ ‫أرتديها ‪،‬هذا مه ّم ج ّدا ً بالنسبة إ ّل وهذا ما ييّز الكشمي‪”.‬‬ ‫مهمً ج ّدا ً ف ابتكار ملبس للنساء‪“ .‬أص ّمم كامرأة‬ ‫وتعتب الص ّممة جنسها عاملً ّ‬ ‫خاصة‪.‬‬ ‫للنساء‪ .‬أيريس فون أرمن ‪ Iris von Armin‬امرأة قويّة تتمتّع بعقليّة ّ‬ ‫تحب جانبها النثوي وتحب التكيز عليه‪ .‬ترغب الرأة أحياناً بانتعال كعب وارتداء‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فستان‪ .‬وترغب ف أحيان أخرى أن تكون غي مرئيّة فتتوق إل كنزة من الكشمي تلفّها‪،‬‬ ‫وأعب عنه ف مجموعتي‪”.‬‬ ‫جسدا ً وروحاً‪ .‬أشعر بذلك ّ‬ ‫الخاصة بالرجال‬ ‫العمل الخي لفون أرمن ‪ von Armin‬هو مجموعة من اللبس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتركّز الص ّممة حال ّياً عل هذا الخ ّط وعل نش عملها حول العال‪ .‬لكن هذا ل يعني‬ ‫أنّه ليس لهامبورغ مكان خاص ف قلبها‪ .‬تنصح الز ّوار “بالذهاب إل الرفأ عل الدوام‪.‬‬ ‫عندما أقف ف “ب ّوابة العال” (كم يس ّمون الرفأ) وأرى الاء والسمء وسفن الشحن‪،‬‬ ‫أشعر بصلة قويّة بيني وبي هامبورغ‪ .‬هندستها فريدة من نوعها إذ تجد منطقة‬ ‫الشاغل التي تعود إل ما يزيد عن مئة سنة‪ ،‬بالقرب من ابتكار هندس مم ّيز لهادي‬ ‫طهران ‪ Hadi Teherani‬أو قاعة الحتفالت من تصميم هرزوغ ودي مويرون‬ ‫‪”.Herzog & de Meuron‬عل ح ّد قول البعض‪ ،‬إنّه مساحة غن ّية ومتن ّوعة‬ ‫تاماً كاللبس الحبوكة التي تبتكرها فون أرنم ‪ von Arnim‬بإتقان‪.‬‬ ‫‪irisvonarnim.de‬‬

‫‪Bright And Bold: 62‬‬ ‫تصاميم زاهية وجريئة‬ ‫البسط لتلجأ‬ ‫تتخلّ بعض العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة الرائدة ف مجال الزياء عن السلوب ّ‬ ‫إل اللوان والنقوش‪ ،‬تقرير دومينيك في ‪Dominique Fenn‬‬ ‫القصات‬ ‫البسط لفت ٍة طويلة مركّزين عل ّ‬ ‫اعتمد مص ّممو الزياء اللان السلوب ّ‬ ‫والتصاميم النيقة والخطوط النظيفة‪.‬‬ ‫البسط أوجه ف التسعينات وبالرغم من ظهوره مجدّدا ً ف بعض الواسم‬ ‫بلغ السلوب ّ‬ ‫الاضية‪ ،‬لجأت الكثي من العلمات التجاريّة التي اعتمدته كأسلوب أساس إل استخدام‬ ‫النقوش الحيويّة واللوان الجريئة لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪.2014‬‬ ‫عادت ملكة البساطة جيل ساندر ‪ Jil Sander‬إل علمتها التجاريّة التي تحمل إسمها‬ ‫لثلثة مواسم قصية بعد رحيل راف سايونز ‪ .’Raf Simons‬عندما ُعرضت‬ ‫العلمة ف أسبوع ميلنو للموضة‪ ،‬كانت اللوان الستخدمة للربيع‪/‬الصيف السود والبيض‬ ‫والرمادي بالرغم من وجود عدّة تصاميم مفعمة باللوان والنقوش‪ ،‬مستوحاة من عمل‬ ‫الف ّنان اليطال الفاهيمي أليغييو بويتي ‪.Alighiero Boetti‬‬ ‫اشتت ميغا ميتل ‪ Megha Mittal‬علمة إسكادا ‪ Escada‬سنة ‪.2009‬‬ ‫وبا أنّها أ ّم كثية السفار عل غرار الرأة العصيّة التي تستهدفها العلمة التجاريّة‪ ،‬تجد‬ ‫تصاميمها مثية للهتمم‪.‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،2012‬ض ّمت ميتل ‪ Mittal‬إل عائلة إسكادا ‪ Escada‬الص ّمم دانيال‬ ‫ونغايت ‪ Daniel Wingate‬ليمنحها لسة عصيّة مع الحافظة عل إرث العلمة‬ ‫التجاريّة‪ .‬أشاد النقّاد بدير قسم التصميم الجديد لضفائه روح النضارة عل الجموعات؛‬ ‫بسط التصاميم الساسيّة وأدخل بدلت وقطعاً مهندمة مع استجاع جزء من أسلوب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الزخرفة الذي تتّعت به تصاميم إسكادا ‪ Escada‬السابقة عل سبيل فساتي السهرة‬ ‫الطويلة الجميلة الط ّعمة بالريش لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪.2013‬‬ ‫يبع ونغايت ‪ Wingate‬ف توليد شعور بالته ّرب مع استخدام نقوش جريئة‪ .‬ف‬ ‫مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2014‬تبز النقوش الحيوانيّة – خطوط الحمر الوحش ورقع‬ ‫الزرافة – إل جانب رسومات أزهار وأناناس مضخّمة‪ .‬تشمل الجموعة أثواباً خفيفة‬ ‫وبدلت ساويل وأثواب سهرة‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما علمة بوس ‪ ،Boss‬فاستحدثت قطعاً كلسيك ّية مستوحي ًة من السلوب الف ّني الذي‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪Covered In Glory: 48‬‬ ‫أسواق مت ّوجة بالجد‬ ‫أسواق هامبورغ السقوفة الجميلة ملذات للتاريخ والزياء ‪،‬تقرير هول سواين‬ ‫‪Holly Swayne‬‬ ‫قد ت ُعرف هامبورغ بالحلت البتكرة ومراكز التس ّوق النيقة الفاخرة‪ ،‬ف حي تشكّل‬ ‫أسواقها السقوفة الوجه الخر لخيارات التس ّوق فيها‪ .‬يعود الكثي منها إل مئات‬ ‫وتستحق الزيارة لهندستها الميّزة ف ما توفّر مساحات جميلة للتس ّوق‪ .‬تحوي‬ ‫السني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أشيا ًء مختلفة من أحدث الزياء والشغال الحرفيّة اللانيّة التقليديّة والطايب الحليّة‬ ‫فتشكّل إرثاً خالدا ً لتاريخ هامبورغ الحافل كمدينة تجاريّة ومرفأ ناشط‪.‬‬ ‫السوق السقوف القدم التبقّي ف الدينة هو ملي باساج ‪Mellin Passage‬‬ ‫الذي يقع عل مسافة قريبة من شارع التس ّوق الفاخر الشهي نيور وال ‪Neuer‬‬ ‫‪ .Wall‬يعود إل منتصف القرن التاسع عش ويتم ّيز بلوحات فريسكو أخّاذة من‬ ‫الف ّن الحديث تجذب محبّي الفن والتس ّوقي عل ح ّد سواء‪ .‬أنشئت الكثي من‬ ‫محلت السوق ف سنواته الول أو لحقاً مح ّملة بتاري ٍخ عريق‪ .‬عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬أُ ّسس‬ ‫هاوي الكتب فليكس جود ‪ Felix Jud‬مكتب ًة تحمل إسمه سنة ‪ 1923‬ونقلها‬ ‫إل السوق ف الخمسينات حيث ما زالت تقدّم مجموعة رائعة من الطبعات الول‬ ‫ومجموعات العمل وكتب السفر التاريخيّة‪ .‬من الحلت العريقة الخرى كونيغليك‬ ‫بورزيلن مانوفكتور ‪ Königliche Porzellan Manufaktur‬الذي‬ ‫يبتكر قطعاً خزفيّة فاخرة مرسومة يدويّاً ومصنوعة ف برلي منذ القرن الثامن عش‪.‬‬ ‫من السواق السقوفة الثية للهتمم أيضاً هانس فيتل ‪ Hanse-Viertel‬الذي‬ ‫شيّده الهندسان اللانيّان ماينارد فون جركان ‪Meinhard von Gerkan‬‬ ‫حجر‬ ‫وفولكوين مارغ ‪ Volkwin Marg‬ف أواخر السبعينات‪ .‬يقع عل مرمى ٍ‬ ‫من دار البلديّة التاريخي ف هامبورغ ويحوي ‪ 60‬محلً تحت قبّة زجاجيّة رائعة‬ ‫وتتوسطه كرة أرض ّية من الغرانيت البازيل زنة ‪ 13‬ط ّناً‪ .‬يجد الز ّوار فيه علمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مختصة بجال الزياء مثل تبلند ‪ Timberland‬وستيفانل‬ ‫تجاريّة عاليّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Stefanel‬لكن يكمن سحر السوق الحقيقي ف الحلت الستقلّة التي تفتشه‪ .‬با‬ ‫أنّها تبيع أشياء مختلفة مثل الزياء الص ّممة بحسب الطلب والقطع الثريّة القيّمة‪،‬‬ ‫تشكّل بديلً أكث خصوص ّية عن سلسل الحلت الكبى التي تحيط بها‪ .‬إحصل عل‬ ‫مستحضات تجميل عضويّة محليّة من محل جاست بيور ‪ Just Pure‬أو إخت‬ ‫حذا ًء مصنوعاً يدويّاً من محل ريد ونغ شوز ‪.Red Wing Shoes‬‬ ‫أ ّما السواق السقوفة الخرى الحديثة نسبيّاً فم زالت تفوح منها رائحة التاث‪ .‬سوق‬ ‫غنسمركت باساج ‪ Gänsemarkt Passage‬هو عبارة عن مساحة صغية‬ ‫الختصة بالزياء والص ّممي الشباب لك ّنه خارج ساحة‬ ‫مكتظّة بالعلمات التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫غانسمركت ‪ Gänsemarkt‬ذات التاريخ العريق‪ .‬بالرغم من إسمه (سوق‬ ‫الوزّ)‪ ،‬ما من دليل يشي إل وجود سوق للو ّز ف الاض هناك‪ ،‬لكن ل شك أنّه كان‬ ‫أحد أبرز الراكز الجتمع ّية الرئيس ّية ف هامبورغ منذ أوائل القرن الثامن عش‪ .‬تض ّم‬ ‫الساحة أيضاً دار الوبرا العظيم والتمثال البونزي الشهي للشاعر اللان غوتهولد‬ ‫إفرايم لسنغ ‪ .Gotthold Ephraim Lessing‬عل مسافة ليست ببعيدة‬ ‫من هناك‪ ،‬ث ّة سوق مسقوف آخر لفنتهاوس ‪ Leventehaus‬الذي يدمج التس ّوق‬ ‫التقليدي بالعصي‪ .‬ش ّيد ف أوائل القرن العشين عل شكل مكاتب لرجل أعمل ثري‬ ‫يعمل ف مجال الشحن لكن خضع ف ما بعد لتميم شامل وتح ّول إل مركز تجاري‬ ‫عصي يض ّم علمات تجاريّة تعنى بالزياء ومطاعم فاخرة وفندقاً فخمً‪.‬‬ ‫يبدو من الواضح من خلل هذه الساحات أ ّن السواق السقوفة ما زالت جزءا ً‬ ‫أساس ّياً من الحياة ف هامبورغ‪ ،‬المر الذي يغني تجربة التس ّوق ويك ّمل مراكز التس ّوق‬ ‫الضخمة ف الدينة‪ .‬فبالضافة إل أسواقها السقوفة القدية‪ ،‬تشتهر هامبورغ بأكب‬ ‫مراكز التس ّوق ف أوروبا‪ .‬خذوا كمثال غالييا كاوفوف ‪Galeria Kaufhof‬‬

‫كل شء‬ ‫الواقع ف قلب هامبورغ؛ يُعتب متجر التس ّوق البرز ف ألانيا ويحوي ّ‬ ‫يقل متجر ألستهاوس‬ ‫من أزياء ومجوهرات وألعاب للطفال وأوان الطهي‪ .‬ل ّ‬ ‫‪ Alsterhaus‬شأناً‪ .‬يعود إل سنة ‪ 1897‬ويتألّف من أربعة طوابق تجذب‬ ‫كل العلمات التجاريّة العالية الكبى من كلوي‬ ‫محبّي الزياء الراقية والجمل‪ .‬يحوي ّ‬ ‫‪ Chloé‬وديور ‪ Dior‬وشانيل ‪ Chanel‬بالضافة إل خدمات تس ّوق شخصيّة‬ ‫وصالون تجميل ومطعم مميّز وحانة شمبانيا‪.‬‬ ‫لذا إن كنت تبحث عن تذكارات ألانيّة تقليديّة أو أسمء تجاريّة عاليّة‪ ،‬يكنك أن‬ ‫تجدها ف هامبورغ ف أسواقها السقوفة التاريخ ّية الجميلة ومجموعتها الواسعة من‬ ‫التاجر الكبى التي ل توفّر تجربة تس ّوق فريدة من نوعها فحسب‪ ،‬بل تشكّل أيضاً‬ ‫مكاناً للتمتّع بالثقافة والتاث الغني الذي تتمتّع به هذه الدينة التن ّوعة‪.‬‬ ‫‪hanseviertel.de, gaensemarkt-passage.de,‬‬ ‫‪levantehaus.de‬‬

‫‪Hamburg’s Cashmere Queen: 56‬‬ ‫ملكة الكشمي ف هامبورغ‬ ‫تتحدّث عميدة اللبس الحبوكة أيريس فون أرمن ‪ Iris Von Armin‬عن‬ ‫رونق الكشمي وموقع متجرها الرئيس غي العتيادي والدينة التي ألهمتها إل ستفن‬ ‫دويغ ‪ Stephen Doig‬من مجلّة شوب ‪SHOP‬‬ ‫تتميّ ز اللبس الحبوكة بالدفءوالراحة والتحفّظ وتظهر هذه الخصائص بق ّوة ف‬ ‫مشغل أيريس فون أرمن ‪ Iris von Armin‬التي سعت منذ تأسيس علمتها‬ ‫التجاريّة سنة ‪ 1976‬إل تحقيق الشهرة من خلل تصاميم متقنة وأنيقة وحتّى‬ ‫حسيّة‪ .‬تستخدم الصوف والكشمي وتبتكر قطعاً‪ ،‬من فساتي قصية الكمم مزخرفة‬ ‫تعب فيها عن كافّة احتملت‬ ‫بشعارات وكنزات مفتوحة وقمصان فضفاضة شبه شفّافة‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫اللبس الحبوكة‪ .‬زد عل ذلك تعاونها الخي ف مجموعة من الكشمي مع عارضة‬ ‫الزياء كلوديا شيفر ‪ Claudia Schifer‬الذي ع ّزز مكانتها‪.‬‬ ‫يشكّل حمس الص ّممة لجال عملها الفضّ ل مصدر إلهام بح ّد ذاته وتقول ف هذا‬ ‫وأفصله‪ ،‬بل‬ ‫الصدد‪“ :‬أح ّبه لنّني أبتكر الشكل والظهر والسلوب‪ .‬ل أشتي قمشاً ّ‬ ‫أقوم ّ‬ ‫بكل شء بنفس‪ .‬أضف إل أنّه ما من قمش يلمس الجلد أفضل من الكشمي‬ ‫كل اللوان فيه أزهى بقليل‪”.‬‬ ‫وتبدو ّ‬ ‫خاضت فون أرمن ‪ von Armin‬مجال اللبس النسائيّة بعد أسفا ٍر كثية‪ ،‬ما ولّد‬ ‫عبت عنه ف عملها‪ .‬اختارت موقع متجرها الرئيس‬ ‫حب العمل الحرف ّية الذي ّ‬ ‫لديها ّ‬ ‫بتأنّ‪ .‬بالرغم من تركزها ف هامبورغ‪ ،‬ق ّررت الص ّممة فتحه ف الجزيرة اللانيّة‬ ‫الشمل ّية سيلت ‪“ Sylt‬ل ّن مناخها بحري وث ّة حاجة لرتداء كنزة من الكشمي‪ .‬كنت‬ ‫متأكّدة أنّني سأجد زبائني هناك‪ ”.‬ما زال التجر مقصدا ً حتّى اليوم بالرغم من موقعه‬ ‫البعيد‪ .‬وقد حدّثت الص ّممة مؤخّرا ً التصميم الداخل لتعرض مجموعة محدودة من‬ ‫الثاث والقطع الفنيّة‪.‬‬ ‫كم تقدّم مدينة هامبورغ الزدهرة الكثي من حوافز البتكار‪ .‬تقول الص ّممة ف هذا‬ ‫الجال‪“ :‬أتأ ّمل ف هامبورغ أناقة الشخاص الرتّبة الكلسيكيّة‪ .‬ل تبطل موضة ذلك‬ ‫السلوب أبدا ً‪ .‬أستوحي الفكار فيم أمش بالقرب من الاء بحاذا ة نهر ألبي‬ ‫‪Elbe‬ومرفئنا الضخم‪ .‬أستوحي عاد ًة من ألوان الطبيعة والشكال الهندسيّة‪.‬‬ ‫ومن السهل ترجمة ذلك إل ملبس محبوكة من خلل التلعب بالقياسات وابتكار‬ ‫قطعٍ مميّزة مثل ثنيات الكمم العريضة والياقات الستديرة العالية والجِيب الضخمة‬ ‫والزخرفات الحبوكة الثلث ّية البعد وقطع أخرى أكث كلسيك ّية‪.‬‬ ‫تقول عن مقاربتها الجريئة إل اللبس الحبوكة‪“ :‬لدينا أنا وفريقي شغف لبتكار‬ ‫بغض النظر عن الوضة الرائجة‪ .‬تثّل علمة أيريس فون أرمن‬ ‫تقن ّيات وأشكال جديدة ّ‬ ‫‪ Iris von Armin‬التقاليد والحرفيّة والجودة الميّزة‪ .‬ل تزول موضة تصاميمي‬ ‫مع الوقت‪ .‬نبتكر قطعاً يستخدمها الشخص لسنوات ومن المكن أن يو ّرثها يوماً إل‬ ‫يهتم الناس بهذه المور أكث‬ ‫الجيل التال‪ ”.‬ف ّ‬ ‫ظل الوضة السيعة السائدة اليوم‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫فأكث‪ .‬تحدّد قطع الكشمي الشغولة يدويّاً وبشغف نوعاً جديدا ً من الفخامة التي تول‬

98 | P RO D U C T S

Souvenir

BRIGHT IDEA Statement necklaces are a fashion favourite and they don’t get much more eye-catching than this piece from Konplott. Part of the brand’s spring/summer collection, the design for the necklace was inspired by 1950s tea towels and tablecloths. Konplott was set up by designer Miranda Konstantinidou and has become an international label, known for its free-spirited Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

and feminine costume jewellery; it now has stores throughout Germany as well as in Asia and Russia. Wear this necklace with a sweater and skirt, keeping all other accessories to a minimum, and embrace Konplott’s joyfully eclectic style. irs Konplott necklace, €498, Konplott, Hanse-Viertel, Poststrasse 29-33, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 5484, konplott.com * for map go to page 77

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