SHOP Holland SS14

www.omegawatches.com

This OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra resists magnetic ďŹ elds greater than 15,000 gauss, solving a problem that has perplexed watchmakers for centuries.

Info OMEGA NL: +31 40 2199912

IN 1969 OMEGA DEFIED ZERO GRAVITY GOING TO THE MOON. IN 2013 OMEGA DEFIES MAGNETIC FIELDS ON EARTH.

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus ILLUSTRATION: pAUL x jOhNSON

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Руководство Германия

Welcome to Holland

Gothenburg Hamburg

This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Holland has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile app is another great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 29. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers

Vilnius

/globalblue

@GlobalBlue

/globalblue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

速

www.gassan.com

Nathalie Lees Illustrator Nathalie Lees created the cover for this season’s SHOP Holland. Nathalie’s illustration shows a tulip disguised in a man’s tie, referring to our feature about Dutch menswear on page 36. She enjoys conceptualising ideas into simple, elegant images and her versatility has allowed her to work on projects ranging from window displays to iPad apps. Nathalie gets her inspiration from flms and old magazines as well as from a good night’s sleep. Read our interview with Nathalie, and more about our cover illustrations, at globalblue.com/covers.

PhOTO: BRAd CLARke PhOTOgRAPhy

ILLUSTRATION: NAThALIe LeeS

Contributors

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s managing editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally adores wandering around the Nine Streets area of Amsterdam and recommends reading John Green’s The Fault In Our Stars while you’re in the city. globalblue.com

Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features editor. A regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph, he is a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has written about style, culture and travel for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. His weaknesses include metallic Lanvin shoes, red wine and good cheese.

Shop Floor PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris

E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Nathalie Lees Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Distribution project assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E N ETHER LA NDS Regional manager for Benelux Marja van Reijn Sales manager Jorn Hoogesteijn Marketing manager Kathy van Haaren Sales and marketing support Melati Marchelinus, Regina de Neve Key account manager Peter Belang Account managers Milo den Doop, Arvind Gangapersadsing, Astrid Maes Global Blue Holland bv, Leidsevaartweg 99, 2106 AS Heemstede, The Netherlands, +31 (0)23 524 1909

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Contents

PHOTO: MaRc HaeRs

p.36

P ro d u c t s 18 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Holland this season 20 Our Favourites Joost doeswijk and Elza Wandler from Atelier de l’Armée reveal their chosen places and products in Amsterdam 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

N EWs Shop Window one store not to be missed in Holland News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Jason denham in his Amsterdam concept store Street Style our pick of Holland’s best dressed for spring/summer 2014

F E At u r E s 36 Cover Story: Men’s Room dutch menswear gets a stage all of its own with more designers fnding innovative ways to dress the country’s coolest guys. By sally McIlhone 42 Dutch Courage Holland’s accessories designers have become pioneers of ground-breaking style, as stephen doig discovers E x PE r I E NcE 52 Raising The Bar From traditional cafés in the Hague to Amsterdam’s late-night clubs, Verity Hogan explores some of the country’s best venues 60 Perfect Days Where to go and what to do in rotterdam and the Hague

Above: DJ and producer Rich Medina in a recent OntFront campaign

Contents ci t y gu i De 65 maps and guides to holland’s top shops and destinations

t R a n s L at i o n s 92 Русский Перевод 97 美文翻译 100 terjemahan bahasa indonesia

essentia Ls 90 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping

sou v e n i R 106 the essential item to bring home

Destination & buying guiDes

DaiLy shopping neWs

Don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.

We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.

PHOTO: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

en gLi sh | Р ус с к и й | 中文

Fashion WeeKs & stReet styLe Follow us online for the latest from europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show roundups and insider shopping guides.

globalblue.com

the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Win monthLy competitions We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotel stays.

Trusted since 1904 Diamond Point is a family owned jewelry company. Visit us in the most prestigious department store de Bijenkorf in Amsterdam. Open 7 days a week. Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam.

www.diamondpoint.nl

作為家族經營企業，鑽石專家

Diamond Point的歷史可以追溯到1904年。歡迎參觀我們位於荷蘭阿姆斯特丹百貨公司

de Bijenkorf的銷售處。我們的營業時間是每週七天。務每週 7 天。大壩1 1012阿姆斯特丹的JS

Семейная ювелирная компания «Diamond Point». Посетите нас в самом престижном универмаге Амстердама « de Bijenkorf » . Работаем без выходных.Плотина 1, 1012 JS Амстердам.

18 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

PICK ’N’ MIX Rarely has it been easier to suit your jewellery to your mood than with Choices by DL. Debora Leeser’s ingenious concept for a jewellery range of interchangeable pieces developed fve years ago and it already has a frm fan base. It allows each section of a ring, earring, necklace or bracelet to be mixed and matched to the wearer’s wardrobe or mood. We are particularly Save up to up 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

taken with this cocktail ring; available in yellow, white or rose gold, each ring is topped with interchangeable parts available in an impressive range of materials. We’ve gone for white gold, pink moonstone and diamonds. hl Choices by DL cocktail rings, prices on request, Gassan Diamonds, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175, 1011 LN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 622 5333, choicesbydl.com for map go to page 67

shop at robertobotticelli.com www.robertobotticelli.com

AMSTERDAM Leidsestraat, 61

ROTTERDAM Lijnbaan, 50

MAASTRICHT Stokstraat, 20

20 | P RO D U C T S

Our FAVOurITES: Atelier de l’Armée Elza Wandler and Joost Doeswijk formed Atelier de l’Armée in 2011, founded on their appreciation of durable materials, timeless design and handcrafted, functional products. Many of the label’s bags are made from ethically sourced leather and the store also sells vintage clothing. Here, Elza and Joost talk to Ximena Daneri about their favourite places and products in Amsterdam atelierdelarmee.com 1. ‘For shoes, Elza likes Acne as well as Stella McCartney and Purifed’

Acne Lenna shoes, €450, Acne, Oude Spiegelstraat 8, 1016 BM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 422 6845, acnestudios.com

2. ‘Our favourite product from the spring/summer collection is our rolltop backpack with zip-front pocket’

Atelier de l'Armée backpack, price on request, Hutspot, Van Woustraat 4, 1073 LL Amsterdam, +31 (0)6 1365 1566, atelierdelarmee.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

S H O P | 21

3. ‘Our signature scents are Vetyverio by Diptyque for Elza…’ Diptyque Vetyverio fragrance, 100ml, €85, Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, diptyqueparis.fr

4. ‘…and Kyoto by Comme des Garçons for Joost’ Comme des Garçons Kyoto fragrance, 50 ml, €62, Babassu Amsterdam, Cornelis Schuytstraat 40, 1071 JK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 471 5148, comme-des-garcons.com

5. ‘Joost likes Red Wing Shoes and vintage military boots’ Red Wing Shoes Postman Oxford Oro shoes, €269.95, Red Wing Shoes, Reestraat 15, 1016 DM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 6002, redwingamsterdam.com

globalblue.com

22 | P RO D U C T S

CANDY CRUSH

Pastels colours and sweetshop hues are the story of the season

1. Marc Cain jacket, €379, Marc Cain, Bergsedorpstraat 41A, 3054 GA Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 418 2291, marc-cain.com

3. Paul Smith Sunshine fragrance, 100ml, €43, Paul Smith, PC Hooftstraat 136, 1071 CE Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 670 0641, paulsmith.co.uk

2. Cos dress, €79, Cos, Venestraat 17-19, 2511 AR The Hague, +31 (0)70 363 5773, cosstores.com

4. Dominio loafers, €295, Dominio, Runstraat 15A, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 419 0546, dominio.nl

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

PHOTOS: (2) PackSHOTfacTOry; (4) vanbuSSelPHOTOgraPHy.cOm

24 | P RO D U C T S

SMART CHOICES Soft colours accented with navy keep formal dressing fresh and fashionable

1. Church’s shoes, €440, Church’s, PC Hooftstraat 112, 1071 CD Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 684 4060, church-footwear.com

3. Filippa K trousers, €185, Filippa K, PC Hooftstraat 129, 1071 BS Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 673 2343, flippa-k.com

2. Closed shirt, €139, Closed, Wolvenstraat 17, 1016 EM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 330 7303, closed.com

4. Hublot watch, €16,700, Schaap & Citroen, PC Hooftstraat 40, 1071 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 671 4714, hublot.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

S H O P | 25

5. Acne jacket, €1,200, Acne, Oude Spiegelstraat 8, 1016 KJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 422 6845, acnestudios.com 6. Rimowa suitcase, €482, Brabants Lederwarenhuis, Frederik Hendriklaan 235, 2582 CC The Hague, +31 (0)70 355 5014, rimowa.de

globalblue.com

7. Hermès ties, €150 each, Hermès, PC Hooftstraat 97, 1071 BR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 305 7050, hermes.com

26 | N E W S

PHOTO: ©TEAM PETER STIGTER

Shop Window

MASTER AT WORK Over the last year KARL LAGERFELD, one of fashion’s busiest people, has expanded his portfolio of international stores at a rate we can hardly keep up with. Located in a quaint 18th-century building in the trendy Nine Streets district, the designer’s Amsterdam concept store is one of the most exciting recent additions to the city, bringing KARL LAGERFELD’s quirky cool and laid-back elegance Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

to the Netherlands. Ofering a true KARL LAGERFELD experience, the store goes beyond fashion to act as a window to the man himself. KARL LAGERFELD’s obsession with the digital is visible at every step, from iPads in the aisles to photo booth ftting rooms and, when you’re fnally ready to go, you’ll be invited to leave a personal note for Karl. hl Karl lagerfeld, Hartenstraat 16, 1016 CB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 422 0077, karl.com * for map go to page 78

28 | N E W S

STYLISH CHOICE For a great day out head to Batavia Stad, the outlet shopping village. It has more than 100 stores ofering discounts of 30% to 70% on national and international brands, from menswear and womenswear to children’s clothing, sportswear, interiors and perfume. It is open seven days a week and has a number of cafés and restaurants. Be sure to check the Stylist Choice, a trend-led selection of great brands at attractive prices. df Batavia Stad Amsterdam Fashion Outlet, Bataviaplein 60, 8242 PN Lelystad, +31 (0)320 292 900, bataviastad.nl

PHOTO: SGP

MODERNIST MOMENT

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

Max Mara’s latest collection has a decidedly modernist look compared with the neutral tones and understated sophistication for which it has become known. The trademark sleek styles remain, but the use of sheer and shimmery fabrics, metallics and vivid colour blocking in electric blue, tangerine and violet adds an exciting edge. gl Max Mara, Hoogstraat 41, 2513 AP The Hague, +31 (0)70 346 4557, maxmara.com

S H O P | 29

SHOP THE WORLD

CRAFTED PERFECTION When it comes to fne watchmaking, the Swiss have a reputation for excellence and rarely is this better deserved than with Tag Heuer. The frm has over 150 years’ experience in making luxurious timepieces with excellent craftsmanship, which can be found at Schaap & Citroen in Rotterdam. hl Schaap & Citroen, Kruikskade 98, 3012 EH Rotterdam, +31 (0)70 3657 8001, tagheuer.com * for map go to page 86 globalblue.com

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

30 | N E W S

GOOD TO KNOW

is also available in black, cream and stylish taupe. hl Tov Essentials, Johannes Verhulststraat 107, 1071 MX Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 636 4762, tovessentials.com

PHOTO: HanS ZagliTScH PHOTOgraPHy

Tov Essentials is a brand of jewellery and leather accessories designed to instil a positive attitude in the wearer. The goods are designed in Amsterdam and manufactured in Florence, so they have the coveted â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;made in Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stamp. With classic styles and a select colour range, the spring/summer collection of handbags is flled with gorgeous pieces. Highlights include this coral mini-bag, which

FRESH CREATIONS Young Designers United is an exciting platform for designers in Amsterdam. The store is flled with the collections of up-and-coming fashion designers, all at afordable prices, and its mission is to support those just starting out. The space is carefully curated to show how Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

exciting some of these small labels can be. While the items stocked are creative and forward looking, the owners keep wearability in mind, so although the range is cutting edge it will ft efortlessly with your wardrobe. hl Young Designers United, Keizersgracht 447, 1017 DK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 9191, ydu.nl * for map go to page 84

Admire our masterpiece! The Star of Amsterdam is a newly developed cut with itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s already legendary 257 facets. The Star of Amsterdam sets a new standard in diamond polishing. You will be stunned when you see the glimmering facets. Visit Zazare Diamonds in front of the Rijksmuseum for elegant jewelery and top brand watches. Location: in front of the Rijksmuseum Weteringschans 89, Amsterdam Tel: +31 (0)20 - 626 27 98 info@zazarediamonds.com

www.zazarediamonds.com

32 | N E W S

In Store: Jason Denham

PHOTO: PHiliP JinTeS

Dutch brand Denham has a concept store in the heart of Amsterdam. Ximena Daneri talks to the label’s founder Jason Denham about what makes this shop in the Nine Streets area unusual

‘I have dreamed of having this exact corner between Prinsengracht and Runstraat for a few years. This is a key part of the Nine Streets district, an area that suits our brand perfectly as there is a great buzz, with niche fashion and design stores, galleries and cafés. ‘Denham refreshes with a new concept every fve weeks. We opened the store with a presentation of our leather jackets, belts, shoes and bags and now the store has been fipped to being 100% denim. ‘We also have a cofee bar here where we encourage our friends and Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

customers to come and hang out with the brand. There are custombuilt tables and Wi-Fi, we serve Italian cofee and all our staf are barista trained. ‘This is the only fashion store in Amsterdam that opens at 8am – there are great hotels in the area and we like to drink early cofee and talk fashion with visitors who have just arrived in town.’ Denham, Prinsengracht 531, 1016 HR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 303 2825, denhamthejeanmaker.com

PHOTO: PHiliP JinTeS

N E W S | 33

Above: Jason Denham at the Prinsengracht Denham store

34 | S T R E E T S T Y L E

VO U RI

SHOP

Street Style

PHOTOS: Marie-CHarlOTTe Pezé

The MercedesBenz Fashion Week in Amsterdam is a small, but growing event. Attendees’ experimental styles refected the designs on show, with a focus on accessorising. Our pick of the best dressed includes visitors sporting Céline handbags and wearing shoes with graphic prints

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

S H O P | 35

globalblue.com

S H O P | 37

Dutch menswear gets a stage all of its own with more and more designers fnding innovative ways to dress the country’s coolest guys. By Sally McIlhone

men’s Room

Holland’s latest crop of menswear talent proves that the Netherlands is ready to take on the likes of Milan, Paris and London as never before. Designers are updating tailoring with innovative touches such as wooden collars and by using wetsuit material to create striking collections which appeal to the modern shopper. As well as modernising menswear classics these designers are pushing menswear boundaries by, for example, producing seasonless capsule collections, blurring the line between menswear and sportswear, and utilising androgynous shapes for the new season. Francisco van Benthum launched his menswear label in 2003. Noted as a talent on the rise by the Dutch Fashion Foundation, in 2012 van Benthum received the Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium, the highest grant made available to the country’s designers. His latest collection

92 / 97 Lihat halaman 100 untuk terjemahan artikel ini

PHOTO: © TEAM PETER STIGTER

38 | F E AT U R E S

features suit trousers with paper bag waists, coats made from scuba suit material, 1990s-style bomber jackets and fashes of intricate pattern. ‘I like to play with the codes and restrictions of menswear, and to explore and stretch its borders,’ he says. In particular this season van Benthum has played with traditional tailoring and has re-interpreted time-honoured menswear staples in technical fabrics. He explains that innovative tailor-

ing is important to him and that performance sports gear is an inspiration: ‘I like to make a hybrid between the worlds of tailoring and innovative technical details.’ Van Benthum’s Amsterdam store opened in 2012 in the trendy Nine Streets area – a melting pot of creativity which displays the ingenuity of Dutch fashion designers. He feels that the absence of a staunch fashion heritage in the Netherlands has made its menswear designers more directional

Previous page: Jonathan Christopher spring/summer 2014

PHOTO: JEANNETTE HUISMAN

PHOTO: © TEAM PETER STIGTER

S H O P | 39

Men’s tailored coats have faux fur arms, and kimono silhouettes are given a masculine look

and unique. ‘We as Dutch people do not have any history or tradition in clothing, at least not the way that the Italians have or the French,’ van Benthum explains. ‘This gives us the freedom to have a more open approach in our vision on design.’ Van Benthum’s protégé Jonathan Christopher agrees. His latest collection, Vanitas, has a particularly open approach to design, in that it blurs the traditional concepts of masculine and feminine clothing. Men’s tailored coats have

Above (from lef): Francisco van Benthum spring/summer 2014 collection; Francisco van Benthum store in the Nine Streets area; Francisco van Benthum spring/summer 2014 collection

40 | F E AT U R E S

faux fur arms, and kimono silhouettes are given a masculine look. ‘Dutch menswear challenges the current status quo through the ft, the use of fabric, the materials and technology hidden in their garments,’ Christopher explains. Christopher is another designer who is fascinated with bending the menswear fashion ‘rules’ while still creating garments that will work in real world wardrobes. ‘I stretch these boundaries, but still see them as male garments and I try to keep them commercially appealing as well,’ he explains. For example, the shirts in his Vanitas collection feature collars made from wood that is laser cut and printed. ‘While this is a great detail I needed to think it through because of wear

and tear, so I made a double collar that is detachable so the shirt can be washed,’ he says. With kimono-cardigans for the more experimental dresser and shirts with removable wooden collars for the man who prefers just a fash of the avant-garde, Christopher and other Dutch menswear designers are recognising that men are increasingly looking to diversify their wardrobes. ‘Men are getting tired of the basics that they are fed with,’ Christopher admits. ‘They want to be able to get something other than the typical suit, sweater, and shirt with a new print. They want their closet to be as diverse as a woman’s wardrobe.’ However, these dramatic sartorial statements are not for everyone. For those who prefer hip updates of classic menswear staples, OntFront’s Haarlemmerdijk store, to the north west of Amsterdam’s city centre, ofers retro tailoring from the brand, as well as from other handpicked menswear labels from other countries. Its designers Tomas Overtoom and Liza Koifman prefer to launch individual designs rather than full collections, often collaborating with other international labels: a recent partnership with Californian footwear brand Generic Surplus resulted in a handmade suede and tweed lace-up shoe. ‘We love being a local boutique with international collaborations,’ the designers explain. OntFront is also known for using personalities such as DJ and producer Rich Medina, and dance

Above (from lef): Jonathan christopher spring/summer 2014; DJ/producer rich Medina in a campaign for OntFront; OntFront’s Haarlemmerdijk store

PHOTO: Marnix POsTMa

PHOTO: Marc Haers

S H O P | 41

group Dutch Soul Supply in the photoshoots on its website. ‘We have clients from all over the world, due to the international reach of blogs about our photoshoots and online videos,’ they explain. Yet, despite OntFront’s international reach, its designers are incredibly humble about Dutch menswear’s current infuence. ‘There are some great Dutch menswear designers. On the world stage they don’t compete with the best yet. But the potential is there.’ If Dutch menswear continues to progress at this trajectory, it certainly won’t be long before this potential is fulflled franciscovanbenthum.com, jonathanchristopher.nl, onfront.com

42 | F E AT U R E S

DUTCH COURAGE

Hollandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessories designers have become pioneers of ground-breaking style, as Stephen Doig discovers 94 / 98 Lihat halaman 102 untuk terjemahan artikel ini

Above: Royal Republiq leather accessories

S H O P | 43

It’s no secret that the Dutch have it nailed when it comes to cuttingedge fashion. Take, for example, streetwear brands such as G-Star, or innovative designers branching out beyond the Netherlands and making waves in fashion capitals: think of Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf or Michael van der Ham, a rising star in London. And as anyone

who has explored the thriving Nine Streets area of Amsterdam will attest, stylish wardrobes are very well supplied by Holland’s fashion scene. But what’s interesting now is just how creative the country’s accessories landscape is too, with a host of designers reinventing jewellery, bags and footwear to grand efect.

44 | F E AT U R E S

Van Herpen’s clothes are showstopping

bones. Her shoes are just as experimental: they are drizzled with what appear to be alien tentacles, have exaggerated curving heels or feature intricate lattice work; her Fang shoes have jagged teeth acting as soles. The efect is always bold and mesmerising.

Above (both): Iris van Herpen couture autumn/winter 2013/14

PHOTOs: © GOrunway.cOm

If a fashion label were looking for the ultimate proof that its designers are cutting edge, it’s fair to say that outftting Lady Gaga would be the best accolade. That challenge has been met famboyantly by Dutch fashion maverick Iris van Herpen. She has been creating visually arresting womenswear since she started her own label in 2007, having previously worked with Alexander McQueen and then been invited to show as part of Paris’s haute couture schedule with the visionary Daphne Guinness, photographer Nick Knight and innovative Dutch architect-designer Rem D Koolhaas. Van Herpen’s clothes are showstopping: some dresses are made with three-dimensional printed materials while others look as if they have been fashioned from

PHOTO: AiméE ZiTO LEmA

46 | F E AT U R E S

Perhaps a touch more wearable is the label of Elisa van Joolen, another Dutch designer who has turned her creative hand to footwear. The Amsterdam-based newcomer graduated in 2012 from Parsons New School for Design in New York and takes a left-feld approach to shoe design and ethical production, recycling materials from companies such as Nike, Converse and Clarks, often sourcing from leftover sample stock, and adapting what she garners into striking, street-inspired fashion. Her working method

usually focuses on inverting the shoes so that the inside is fipped out, and any branding is ingeniously reversed. Sometimes, it’s a focus on craft and simplicity that puts

Above (from top): designer Elise van Joolen and the brand’s inverted recycled shoe design

HUGO BOSS, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO MULBERRY AND MANY MORE

48 | F E AT U R E S

Holland’s leading accessories labels above the rest. This is the ethos behind Royal Republiq, a leather brand founded in Denmark in 2006 and now based in Amsterdam, which creates pared-back pieces. It began life as a concept label for men before branching into women’s accessories. Natural leathers and dyes are used for its tote bags, clutches and sturdy boots. There’s a stellar lineup of men’s accessories too, from bold, bright rucksacks to solid holdalls. Thanks to the leather crafting these pieces look better as they age, the brand having opted for love-worn appeal over trend-led seasonal change. Amsterdam also acts as a base for a jewellery designer who similarly overturns traditional accessories to create subversive, witty and elegant pieces. Sandra Turina uses materials such as wood, plastic and metal foil to design her striking necklaces and brooches.

There’s a stellar line-up of men’s accessories too

Above (from top): Royal Republiq leather accessories and backpack

Beauty and more … visit Europe’ No. 1 perfumery!º WE WILL BE PLEASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE DOUGLAS WORLD OF BEAUTY: Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers. Douglas is established in more than 100 cities in the Netherlands. For addresses see: www.douglas.nl

50 | F E AT U R E S

Intricately cut wooden diamond shapes on pendants play with notions of fne jewellery, while even the most humble of objects acts as subject matter. Note, for example, her use of origami and of acorns.

This isn’t the conventionally pretty stereotype of jewellery, and Turina’s work is the more fresh and quirky for this approach. If this wealth of accessories instore wasn’t enough, Amsterdam also boasts its own handbag museum, the Tassenmuseum, where the private bag collection of society fgure Hendrikje Ivo is on display alongside collections that the museum has developed. Visitors can explore lavish French clutches from the 18th century to riotous Gianni Versace couture bags, iconic Hermès Kelly bags and stunning Dior saddlebags. After an inspiring trip here Amsterdam’s shops are waiting to be explored irisvanherpen.com, elisavanjoolen.com, royalrepubliq.com, turinajewellery.com, tassenmuseum.nl

Above (from top): Sandra Turina jewellery; Amsterdam’s Tassenmuseum

T H E

E X P E R I E N C E W W W.ROYA LDELFT.COM

The last remaining Delftware manufacturer from the 17th century. Take a journey through the world of Delft Blue and enjoy the unique shopping experience in our showroom with complete authentic and modern collection. info@royaldelft.com | +31 (0)15 251 2030

52 | E X P E R I E N C E

Raising the baR From the harbourside bars of Rotterdam and traditional cafés in The Hague to Amsterdam’s late-night clubs, the Netherlands ofers a variety of nightlife options. Verity Hogan explores some of the country’s best venues

The Netherlands boasts a diverse nightlife scene. Visitors can join locals enjoying the late-night clubs of Amsterdam, Rotterdam’s lively harbourside cafes and The Hague’s vibrant theatre and dance culture. Amsterdam is the city with arguably the most varied after-dark entertainment and ofers a venue to suit every taste, from traditional brown cafés to chic cocktail bars. Jenever is the national spirit. A type of Dutch gin, it is typically served as a chilled shot, although globalblue.com

it is sometimes diluted with a favoured mixer. Dutch liqueurs have also received international acclaim: curaçao, parfait amour and triple sec have all become cocktail staples. A small selection of Dutch wines, produced in relatively modest quantities by the Apostelhoeve and Slavante vineyards near Maastricht, competes for attention with locally produced beers – Heineken and Amstel are the most popular but there are also smaller breweries producing highly desirable specialist beers and ales.

S H O P | 53

TA S T E A haven for wine connoisseurs in the heart of The Hague, Taste offers more than 200 wines, sourced from the world’s fnest wine-producing regions. At least 50 wines are available by the glass and the selection is updated regularly to ensure there is always something new to try. The décor refects the high quality of its wines with sophisticated styling, bronze and brown leather seating and swathes

of sumptuous fabric. The light bites available are ideal accompaniments to the drinks and include veal meatballs with trufe gravy, and mushrooms marinated in tarragon and garlic. If you’d prefer something a little more substantial, opt for the regularly changing and exquisitely presented threecourse menu. Taste, Tournooiveld 1, 2511 CX The Hague, +31 (0)70 360 5395, tastethewinebar.eu for map go to page 87

54 | E X P E R I E N C E

LEVEL

D O OR 74

Refreshingly relaxed and exuding artistic spirit, Rotterdam’s Level refects the nightlife cultures of New York and Berlin in its stripped-back space. The cocktail selection could rival either city and in the unlikely event that there is nothing to suit on the menu, the expert bartenders are more than happy to tailor a cocktail to your taste. The bistro-style food menu is in keeping with the bar’s laidback atmosphere. Choose a steak, served with a stack of fries, or try the cheese plate which is best enjoyed with a large glass of red wine. Level, Pannekoekstraat 76A, 3011 LK Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 280 0788, levelrotterdam.nl

One of Amsterdam’s best-kept secrets, Door 74 is a classic speakeasy with a hidden entrance, an art deco tin ceiling, antique barware and a refned atmosphere. The bar’s address is a closely guarded secret until you make a reservation; you can only book on the day you wish to visit and only by phone. Once invited inside, the bar’s patrons can explore a menu of rare vintage Champagnes and intriguing cocktails: Rose Adagio is a typical example with its mix of Irish honey whisky, hibiscus syrup, egg white, lemon juice and Champagne. Door 74, Amsterdam, +31 (0)6 3404 5122, door-74.com

globalblue.com

56 | E X P E R I E N C E

TWENTY THIRD BAR Set on the 23rd foor of Hotel Okura, this chic cocktail bar boasts one of Amsterdam’s most extensive Champagne lists as well as panoramic views across the city centre. There are 17 varieties of Champagne, many available by the glass, while the cocktail selection is similarly copious and includes

VESPER BAR Located in Amsterdam’s vibrant Jordaan district, boutique bar Vesper is one of the city’s most characterful drinking dens. A wide selection of beers and wines is offered alongside an inventive cocktail list whose options range from the bar’s signature Vesper Martini globalblue.com

all the classics. The bar’s décor is suitably sleek with a contemporary, understated design while gourmet bar snacks come from the hotel’s adjoining Michelin-starred Ciel Bleu restaurant; the selection ranges from pata negra ham to oysters. Twenty Third Bar, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, 1072 LH Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 678 7111, okura.nl

to the Local Old Fashioned and Beer Bonanza, a mix of jenever, Rémy Martin cognac, stout beer and homemade pimento syrup. Amateur mixologists can join one of the bar’s cocktail workshops to discover all the tricks of the trade. Vesper Bar, Vinkenstraat 57, 1013 JM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 846 4458, vesperbar.nl

THE BEAUTY SPECIALIST With more than 13.000 fragrances, skincare and makeup products from international brands, ICI PARIS XL is the beauty specialist of The Netherlands. Visit one of our nine stores in Amsterdam for our fabulous offers.

ICI PARIS XL IN AMSTERDAM PC Hoofstraat 123

Gelderlandplein 123-125

Beethovenstraat 34

Kalverstraat 185B

Buikslotermeerplein 72

Leidsestraat 67

standard discount

10% on the recommended retail price

iciparisxl.nl

Nieuwedijk 189 Osdorpplein 621B Bijlmerplein 873

60 | E X P E R I E N C E

A Perfect Day In Rotterdam A dynamic city with an ever-changing skyline and a fearless approach to reinvention, Rotterdam is an ideal day-trip destination. This famous port town ofers a wealth of shops, cultural attractions, festivals, restaurants and parks. SHOP spends a day browsing Rotterdam’s most unusual concept stores and enjoying the views during dinner on SS Rotterdam 10am: Damage Playground

1pm: Depot Rotterdam Featuring established and emerging designers, Depot Rotterdam’s collection of homeware is sure to inspire. The interior design studio has been based in the city centre since 1999 and its range includes everything from large furniture to small, decorative accessories.

Those with a rebellious streak are sure to feel at home at Damage Playground. The minimalist store stocks a selection of creative fashion items, accessories, books, music and works of art, and favours labels that aren’t afraid to break style rules.

PHOTO: bluebOOsr

4pm: Groos

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

Supporting the creativity of Rotterdam’s residents, Groos only stocks items by designers based in the city. This policy has created a diverse and eclectic product range which includes pieces from the felds of fashion, design, art, music and literature. Look out for works by local luminaries Barry Marré, Lianne Siebring, Nicole Martens and Jonas Vorwerk.

S H O P | 61

DIRECTORY

End your day by enjoying a meal at Kiraku. The menu at this sleek eatery consists of Japanese classics, ranging from sushi, sashimi and maki to larger dishes centred on teriyaki and tempura. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out on dessert; a selection of ice creams is available, favoured with green tea, ginger and black sesame seeds.

Emma Joe Loves Life, Dagelijkse Groenmarkt 30, 2513 AL The Hague, +31 (0)70 360 9911, emmajoe.nl

4pm: The Hague Historical Museum Set in one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest buildings, The Hague Historical Museum covers the story of the city, its government and its inhabitants. Temporary exhibitions are held regularly; this season, look out for displays highlighting the history of the House of Orange and the work of political satirists.

2pm: Kaaswinkel Kalkman The Netherlands is renowned for its cheese and at Kaaswinkel Kalkman this reputation is upheld in style. The store stocks a range of Dutch and international cheeses, wines and olives.

globalblue.com

Lola Bikes & Cofee, Noordeinde 91, 2514 GD The Hague, +31 (0)61 471 5854, lolabikesandcofee.nl Kaaswinkel Kalkman, Frederik Hendriklaan 222, 2582 BL The Hague, +31 (0)70 355 1880, kalkmankaas.nl The Hague Historical Museum, Korte Vijverberg 7, 2513 AB The Hague, +31 (0)70 364 6940, haagshistorischmuseum.nl Kiraku, Toussaintkade 31, 2513 CK The Hague, +31 (0)70 345 4288, kiraku.nl

The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save

The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register

*Subject to local conditions.

G U I D E | 65

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar country is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Holland with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/holland or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

66 | G U I D E

ANNE FRANK HOUSE

IXS

IJK

STR

TR A

Amsterdam

BIL

RA EN R OZ

NEW CHURCH AMSTERDAM AT

ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM NATIONAL MONUMENT

R EE ST R AAT

MADAME TUSSAUDS Supperclub

P.74 ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM

P.76

RD N

IJK

AD E

Jimmy Woo Melk Weg

LE Suzy Wong

S TA DHO

AT RA

P R IN SENG R AC H T ZAZARE DIAMONDS CH

THE RIJKSMUSEUM

HOUSE OF BOLS

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

ER LES

THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM

H OUDER SK

ADE

HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE MUSEUM

T AA

THE NETHERLANDS FILM MUSEUM G WE RK PA MS E L L WI

W UD

COSTER DIAMOND FACTORY SCHAAP & CITROEN

N VA

VONDELPARK

P.76

Litle Buddha

P.82

GEL

FLOWER MARKET

Bo Cing

PARADISO

A AT

T AA

P.84

IXS

BIL RT

P.72

P.78 AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

AMSTERDAM THEATRE

E OV

P.70

RO KI N

PRIN SEN GRA CHT

LIJ

AC H

Nomads

NAS

AKA OST

ADHU I S S TR A

CONCERT HALL

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

Tourist Information

Bar

S H O P | 67

AMSTERDAM CENTRAL STATION

Sea Palace

P.70

Skylounge

GEL

NEMO

A DE

SEK

DER

PASSENGER TERMINAL AMSTERDAM

I JT U N N EL

K ADE

CENTRAL UNDERGROUND STATION TOURS & TICKETS

BEURS VAN BERLAGE AMSTERDAM

MUZIEK GEBOUW AAN 'T IJ

Y TER

DE RU

TT KA

SCHEEPSVAARTMUSEUM

JODEN B RE

KA TT

P.18

GASSAN DIAMONDS FACTORY THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM

Club Air HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM

ESP

TR A

TEL

A AT

TIS PHA

T RAA

ESTR

CHTS

ER S

AMS

UTRE

SA R

E ITSK A D

USS

TR A

W EE

T AA

OUS

SHOP Recommendation

Z IJ D

ONY

SPER

HEM

V AN W

Train Station

EER

TS K A D E RI

NAE

A AT

TROPENMUSEUM

LIN

IS T R

EIN

ARTIS TA G

THEATRE CARRÉ

H AT

HORTUS BOTANICUS

CITY HALL & OPERA

SA RP

STR

STE

T AA

TER

Underground Station

Featured In This Issue

STE

R PA

68 | G U I D E

BOFB Short for Best of Both, BofB sells modern jewellery and more classic pieces. It is the collaboration of high-end classic jeweller John Boot and goldsmith and modern jewellery designer Bertie Hamers, who together produce silver and gold bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings with a distinctive look. Be sure also to admire the colourful design watches and the traditional MeisterSinger timepieces. BofB, Rokin 116M, 1012 LB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 625 3078, bofb.nl for map go to page 70

With its stylish interior and welledited selection of titles, Mendo is far more than your average bookstore. The range includes fashion, photography, architecture, travel, food and design, and visitors will fnd enthusiastic staf on hand to ofer advice. Concrete Architectural Associates designed the storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinctive look - the walls composed of black books are a key feature. Mendo, Berenstraat 11, 1016 GG Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 612 1216, mendo.nl for map go to page 78

globalblue.com

PHOTO: ewOuT Huibers

MENDO

Wooden Shoes, how are they made?

Find out at the Wooden Shoe Workshop Wooden shoes have been worn in Holland for more than a 1000 years and not only are they still being worn today, but over a million pairs are still made and sold each year. A unique collection of clogs is on display in our Clog Museum, giving additional insight into the historical tradition of this fascinating footwear. Visit our Workshop for a demonstration, try some on, take photo’s and browse around. What a great way to experience historic Holland!

Wooden Shoe Workshop ’De Zaanse Schans’ www.clogs.nl • info@clogs.nl FREE ENTRANCE

• FREE DEMONSTRATION • FREE MUSEUM

Transport from Amsterdam By train: From Amsterdam Central Station take the train to Uitgeest as far as Koog-Zaandijk Station and follow the signs to the Zaanse Schans. It will take approximately 10 minutes to walk from the station to the Zaanse Schans. By car: From Amsterdam ring road A10 in the direction of Zaanstad. Exit A8 direction Zaandam and then A7, direction Purmerend. Take the frst exit and follow the signs to the Zaanse Schans. By bus: There is a bus service (bus 391) from Amsterdam (located in front of Amsterdam Central Station) direct to the Zaanse Schans.

Purmerend Zaanse Schans

Zaandam Haarlem

Discover Holland, visit windmill village the Zaanse Schans

Amsterdam Schiphol

70 | G U I D E

AMSTERDAM EXPERIENCE ● SUPERMARKT ● TOURS AND TICKETS ●

Damrak, Dam & Rokin

TOURS AND TICKETS ● OPTIONS ●

TULIP HOUSE ● ETNIES ● DRAKE'S ● SUBZERO ● CHOCOLATERIE NELISSEN● TULIP HOUSE ●

IJD

PA L E I S S T R A AT

Peek & Cloppenburg E. N. SO UV ENR. G ● M AN DA IR S ● RI JN ● M OU TF ITAN GO ● TE RS ● JA N JA SH AR P NS EN ● SH OP GE AR ● HA RR Y RO KI N ● TR SO UV OM P ● BE LC OMEN IR S ● PA NY ● CAVE ROKP N ● DU TC H FO OD GIKI N ● FT ● DO J.M . SC HM ID T UG LA S ● TH E AM ST OP TI EK ER DA M ●

O M AR W

L WA RG BU ER

HT AC

DS ZIJ DE

AL IER

OV KL

OUD

SB AN

FM AR

T ALLARD PIERSON AA MUSEUM TR NS LE E O ED W EU NI

LV E

ROK

● THE MILL DIAMONDS

● RY ● UST IN D B O F B ● D RY S N IE U LA P.68T IQ U ITM A N ● N AU F ● TA SB H A R R N & K AG N È L E N ● U ● OO T H IE B R IL T E R MA OGEND KEL STR Ä IN H W D IA e r ie U net S XXX ● CL A n o T ● eB G IF nD V& D iso

T E EG

KS TA

OUDEZ

N ES

ROKI

IJDS V

●

W EE KD P.G .C . HA AY ● JE NI US PR EM SE CI GA RS LA & HA ● M BU RG ER ● PA PI LL ON DA NC E CL OT HE S●

GW UR O ORB

SE NZ A

AL GW

ROKIN

DU NG EO

A AT

SP UISR RB

OR S VO

NIEUW E ZIJD

De Bijenkorf IRS EN D UV AN SO S HOLL ARE R QU VN % ● S● 1 0 0D A M S ● ● GASS AN DAM SQUA RE ● OP EN S HOP ● BETS Y PALM ER SHOE S DA M S ● PARFUMERIE MARJO TR AA T

MADAME TUSSAUDS

UR BA N

RA SWAROVSKI ● H&M ●

NES

DA M

ISR SPU

DELIFRANCE ● DE WAAL ● AMSTERDAM TODAY ●

A AT

NIE

C&A ●

O L A A S S T R A AT

UI SP

NIC SINT

JANSEN & JANSEN ●

Magna Plaza

RG BU

Stock Fresh Coﬀee & Sandwiches

AA T

BIG BAZAR ●

MEDIEVAL TORTURE MUSEUM

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Café

SHOP Recommendation

www.magnaplaza.nl magna plaza amsterdam

72 | G U I D E

290 SQUARE METERS

APC, Freitag, Won Hundred and Surface to Air, while the store’s location in a subterranean bank vault adds to the distinctive atmosphere. The space also hosts regular art exhibitions. 290 Square Meters, Houtkopersdwarsstraat 3, 1011 NK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 419 2525, 290sqm.com

Owner Ido de Voos stocks 290 Square Meters with items that he loves. The eclectic range includes shoes, bags, clothes and handmade jewellery. The brands featured are at the avant-garde end of the spectrum, including

Heiligeweg

ER PP HI AT SC RA S & ST PEN E R YP C. LV ● L . A . H C M KA P ● AT E E W EL ST ● IC DE R ● DIES S I W E AN N ●● SO RT ● S A OT M A EK ● RE F O P FOG EL P TI E T ● EX TE N K O CR ER ● S TA D U O R S E A C H KO ●● Y ● RO SEI J E ● G ES LIN 50 Y P VA P E YV CU DI KI OD ● IJS ● UN ● NE IER S I TA T NL N CC S● VA AI IR ● L’O S N O ● I L E A L H L’ S UV UD ● ● E SO P ST N DA H KI U ● BO SO GLIS ● KE & SA R MA ● C H E N T E BY O T T H E H AT E D ● IR ON SP HI G ● I N FA S B A A ● G M MA PU SC

IL HE

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

74 | G U I D E

CI E N S

T EEG

● BERSHKA ● DOUGLAS

SOUVENIRS ● CLARKS ● FRONT RUNNER ●

HI AMSTERDAM ● PEPE JEANS ● SABON ●

● RITUALS

● WE

Café Luna

A AT

K AL VER

RO KIN

STR

N IE

● H&M

C U ED

G R IM

CH ● RIS KO T I DA N E K L

ESPRIT ●

● SWAROVSKI ● MORGAN ● DOLCIS ● SIEBEL

B U R G WA

●

THE PHONE HOUSE ● O'NEILL ● SCORE ● FLOMAR ●

NE S

RB OO

SI N T LU

LUSH ● FOOTLOCKER ● ECCO ● PERRY SPORT COSTES ● ● + OUTDOOR H&M ● ● STORE FOR BRANDS LEDER PALEIS ● ● KIDS FOOT LOCKER VAN HAREN ● CHEESE AND MORE CROCS ● ● BY HENRI WILLIG DESIGUAL ● ● STEPS DRESSES FOOT LOCKER ● ● TAFT SHOES

IJD

● TURQUAZE CITY BV

PALBO ●

LUCIE'S ●

FRED DE LA BRETONIERE ●

K A LV

ER ST

R A AT

Kalverstraat, Spui & Sint Luciensteeg

SP UI P E R N ● LAUNDRY INDUSTRY AM E ● C T U IN ● S E NE ●D O R STO 1 S ● I , ● P PN TER SPU MS WA LY S S A ● K R A DA R S A ● OP E TB ● D K E C H DY S H S O L S O A● B ● IL E V ● TH HA ES NDS S O ● R H C O S A KE R ● EA ● S O O T S D IA M SN ÖLLE ● R ● B EUTE EM NS R NK VA D ● A ’S U I ● EV H L OD IE M L ● F O ● ERO ON E N MA ANG ● V O DA F M . BY r n e r ● ● V V IT O E L L A ÄT E R H .E Co ONKI ● ● IN IN D E R IA S T R ee M E ﬀ o OR ● ● C L AU D C T r S T RY S P O R ● ●C eye D m R t P E K T IE E R G IE Ou AM SU A EN RD / ● Y P T STE S IX AM STE S & E S XL IK E S ID P P E N R ● N M IS IS R ● LY IP P E ● I PA M IT S IX ● SCH ● IC TS RT AR BA LUB ● ER IL RC ●B G KK H E FOSS S ● A T E B A E E ● W IE C M ● EL E P H T G H& D ● MM L ILI CA N F IE E OX ● ● HE ●S MA G TY E A U B OY ● ● B &D Y N MA ●V H E S IS S T O R E R H LV E L IS E KA NG STO R ● WE NE BOOK TCH Y ● A ● S W T O DA E R ● A N P E N C OX Y ● ● R NOS ● E R IC S T AM RKS & SING XE SHOP ELF EL L D IE N C E MA RD YA RO XP ER ECO E ER E ● R F

KIN

E LV

T AA

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

A world of

FASHION FOOD JEWELLERY and more

Kalverstraat 203, Amsterdam Buitenplein 101, Amstelveen

76 | G U I D E

ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM

University of Amsterdam since 1934. Displays aim to show the efect of the ancient world on contemporary culture and the collection ranges from pottery and sculpture to jewellery and coins. Allard Pierson Museum, Oude Turfmarkt 127, 1012 GC Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 525 2556, allardpiersonmuseum.nl for map go to page 66

Its challenging presentation of ancient civilisations has made the Allard Pierson Museum one of Amsterdam’s most intriguing attractions. Housed in the former headquarters of De Nederlandsche Bank, it has been part of the

Kalverstraat North DA M Peek & Cloppenburg ● TRÉSOR

DE TUINEN ● STEVE MADDEN ● PIMKIE ● COOL CAT ● SACHA ● RIVER ISLAND ● CHASIN’ ●

● FRONT RUNNER ● BJÖRN BORG ● POP CULT ● FOREVER 21 ● PULL & BEAR ● PIECES ● MANFIELD

BAZAR ●

● VILA

SABON ●

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

DIDI ●

● MANGO ● JAMIN

SCORE ●

● BLOKKER

CLAIRE’S ●

ZARA ●

Global Blue Retailer Department Store

● CITY DIAMONDS ● SUPERSTAR RALPH LAUREN ● DENIM & SUPPLY ● SIX ● BIJOU BRIGITTE

K A LV

DIDI ●

● MCDONALDS ● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR

ER ST

GEOX ●

R A AT

● PRO 020

STEPS ●

DA M

Non-Global Blue Retailer

NES

DESIGUAL ●

ROKIN

THE STING ●

K A LV E R S T R A AT

N IE U W E Z IJ D S V O O R B U R G WA L

E AL

T ISS

T AA

78 | G U I D E

The Nine Streets/De Negen Straatjes

SI N G EL

PROJECT AMS ●

WAXWELL RECORDS ● DISTRICT 9 ● ANTONIA BY YVETTE ●

H EREN GRACHT SIR MAX ● TIKAL ● FLIP*FLOP ● EXOTA ● P.26 KARL LAGERFELD ● THE GAMEKEEPER ● CARHARTT ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● MC LENNAN'S PURE SILK ● LOCKSTOCK & BARREL ● BLGK EDELSMEDEN ● VAREKAMP ● DE MAAGD & DE LEEUWE ● MIAUW ●

KEIZERSGRACHT GALERIE GALUK ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● WTG ●

ANNLIZ ●

MISS JONES ●

SUPER ● JUFFROUW JANSEN ●

Bussia

Bar 22

SECOND BEST ●

BRIX ●

SCOTCH SHRUNK ●

BENDORFF ●

LEE ●

FILIPPA K ●

Café Wheels

LOMOGRAPHY ●

LITERATUR VAN VER EVANAAR ● MARGARETH M. ● CAR2GO ● ACNE ● P.S. AKA DEPOT DELUXE ● MAISON RIKA ●

HERENGRACHT

● SINGEL OPTIEK ● SAS DESIGN ● MAUVE ● NIC NIC ● NATIONAL BRILLEN MUSUEM ● TKLYLTJE ● MECHICAS ● KALPA/DE BOER ● BY FABRIO

P.106

KEIZERSGRACHT

● PARWAN ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● ML COLLECTIONS ● FAB ● MARC O’POLO ● M-E-K ● EXOTA ● JOOT BOOKS ● KAGETSU ● KLEIKOLLEKTIEF ● COS ● FRED PERRY ● DR WONEN ● PURNA ● SUSPENDERS ● BLOSHAAR ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● PINA

Restaurant Struisvogel

REBEL CHIC ● PARISIENNE ●

Coﬀee Company

THAI FUSION ●

Restaurant Zurantje

FASHION FLAIRS ●

Pancakes!

KOOKAI ● BOEKIE WOEKIE ● MARLIES DEKKERS ● DE 9 HEREN ● POP-UP STORE! ● PRETTY RINGS ● TOOS & B ROOS ●

PR INSENGR ACHT

● DE WELDAAD ● AMSTERDAM WATCH COMPANY ● FIFTIES SIXTIES

Tin Pan Alley

Koﬀeehuis De Hoek

● MK JEWELLERY ● NOOCH ● CHUCK PALU HOME ● RED WING SHOES ● GALERIE LUGHIEN ● HARTENKAAS ● TERRA ● NOA LIFESTYLE ● TABAK

SING EL ● PORTONOVO ● L'ETOILE DE SAINT HONORE EMAILLE.NL ● ● SHOEDICTION ● ROERNDE ZAKEN RARITEITEN RAYMOND ● KOAN FLOAT TECHNOLOGIES GERRITZEN ● ● RIKA NOA LIFESTYLE ● ● SIMONE

HERENGRACHT

GERDA’S ● FLOOR STUDIOS ● MY 7 WAYS ● LES GALERIES NEUF ● DENHAM ● BY FABRIO ● ROBIN & RIK LEERMAKERS ● TRUNNERTJE ●

Café De Doffer

LOCAL SERVICE (MEN’S) ● MOKU ● THE DARLING ● MENSOCKS ● MOSCOW ● VELOUR ●

KEIZERSGRACHT

VELOUR ● GOODS ● BY FABRIO ● DJOEKE WESSING ● SPIEGEL BEEJD ● IL VAGABONDO ● TONY COHEN ● LOULOU ● SUPERTRASH ● JAN BEST ●

WE ARE LABELS ● ● KALDI CARLA PALERMO ● ● BJÖRN BORG AMSTERDAM ● BEADIES ● LE SOUK GOODS ● ● LAURA DOLS Pompadour Café ● JAN ● VITTORIO MARCHESI ● GALERIE DE SALON ● CLOSED ● SPOILED ● SAPORO

Bar Outbijit

● HAR BARBAAR

Café Nielsen

● EPISODE ● DE PINGUIN ● STOUT ● MENDO P.68 ● SCOTCH & SODA

● KUNST HAAR ● ROECKL ● SMAAK ● GLAS-IN-LOOD

HERENGRACHT

● LEF ● HOOFF HOOFF ● ITALIAN GLAMOUR ● ROZA ● LOULOU

Café Des Pels

● SCOTCH & SODA ● ZIPPER ● GOODIES ● LIEBESKIND BERLIN ● GEM KINGDOM ● RAIN ● RELAXED AT HOME ● JOLENE JOLINK ● JOJO

KEIZERSGRACHT

● VAN RAVENSTEIN

PR INSENGRACH T

● LOCAL SERVICE (WOMEN’S) ● WOK & ZO ● HAMKO ● DE WITTE TRANDENWINKEL ● DA KAASKAMER ● VANILIA ● SKINS COSMETICS ● LUST ● DOMINIO ● DENHAM ● VANS ● DE WIJN WINKEL ● BAKKERY PAUL ANÉE ● MINT MINI MAN ● BEAUREGARD ● FANOUS

SHOP Recommendation

Featured In This Issue

Bar

Restaurant

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

WIJDE HEISTEEG

HUIDENSTRAAT

RUNSTRAAT

OUDE SPIEGELSTRAAT WOLVENSTRAAT BERENSTRAAT

GASTHUISMOLENSTEEG HARTENSTRAAT

REESTRAAT

HARTENSTRAAT 16 AMSTERDAM

KARL.COM

80 | G U I D E

Van Baerlestraat VONDELPARKBRUG

Vondelpark

V O S S I U S S T R A AT

R A AT

RIVIERA MAISON ● BENETTON ● INGLOT ● PANARA ● HÄSTENS ● PIASTRELLE ●

LAUNDRY INDUSTRY ●

VA N B A ERL ESTR A AT

VO S SI U S S T

AMERICAN VINTAGE ●

PIETER CORNELISZ HOOFTSTRAAT

● TONI & GUY ● THE PHONE HOUSE ● KPN ● SISSY BOY ● AZZURRO ● MASSIMO DUTTI

SOCIETY SHOP ●

● PETIT BATEAU

LUBA ●

● MAESTRO DUE

OOGAPPEL ●

VA N E EGH EN L A A N

ZANDPAD

● SIMON MEYSSEN BROODBAKKER

SANDWICH ●

FRED DE LA BRETONIERE ●

VAN EEGHENSTRAAT

PEARLE OPTICIENS ● PURDEY ●

Bagels & Beans THE PEOPLE OF THE LABYRINTHS ●

● FRANS MOLENAAR

JAN LUIJKENSTRAAT

Conservatorium Hotel

VAN DE VEL D ESTRAAT

HARBOUR TAILORS ●

● ZARA HOME

VAN BAERLESTRAAT

VANILIA ●

ACE & DIK JUWELIERS ● PAUW ● ● SUITSUPPLY

LINHARD ●

PAU LU S P OTT ER ST R A AT

WILLEMSPAR KWEG

● SUITSUPPLY

Small Talk Coﬀee Corner

THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM

KORT SHOES ● ARKE ● ABN AMRO● GAASTRA ● PAUW ●

VILLEROY & BOCH ●

VAN BREESTRAAT

PAUW ● TWENTY ONE BY MCGREGOR ●

BOEKHANDEL ROBERT PREMSELA ● GANT WOMAN ● NEW FYSIC ● DAVIDOFF OF GENEVA● GANT MAN ● PAUW MANNEN ● BROEKMANS & VAN POPPEL ●

SELECTED STORES IN CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL:

VAN BAERLESTRAAT

PAUL NOYEN ●

Brasserie Keyzer

BONEBAKKER CULTI HARTMAN EN HARTMAN LA CASA DEL HABANO SKINS COSMETICS

Museumplein

JAN WILLEM BROUWERSSTRAAT HET CONCERTGEBOUW ●

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Place Of Interest

Café

Free entrance museums Free canal cruise Free public transport Amsterdam and more

24 hours €47

48 hours €57

72 hours €67

GET OUT OF TOWN BUS PASS

+€10

iamsterdam.com/citycard

82 | G U I D E

● G-S TAR RAW

● BUH JAH

● QUE STO

● PC BAG S ROM EO ● VET RO

PC Hooftstraat

RIJKSMUSEUM

HOBBEMAS TR AAT

PROFUOMO ● KAAKS SOUVENIRS ●

● TESLA CARS ● SUPERTRASH ● SOUVENIRS33.COM

GIMMICKS ● AGENT PROVOCATEUR ● HARTMAN + HARTMAN ●

● TRU TRUSSARDI

COSTER DIAMONDS ●

● IKKS JUNIOR

SCHAAP & CITROEN ●

● EMPORIO ARMANI ● ESCADA

SCHAAP + CITROEN ● LACOSTE ●

● MEYER

TASCHEN ●

● COSMIC COWBOYS ● IWC / SCHAAP + CITROEN

BURBERRY ●

● CHOPARD

7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● IKKS MEN & WOMAN ● GUCCI ● CANALI ● JIMMY CHOO ● BALLY ● CHANEL ● CORNELIANI ● TOURBILLON ● TOD'S ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● SHOEBALOO ● GUESS BY MARCIANO ● MARC CAIN ●

● LA PERLA

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● PRADA

HONTHORSTSTRAAT HOUSE OF BOLS ●

● LOUIS VUITTON ● LONGCHAMP

JAN LUIJKENSTRAAT

● KAREN MILLEN ● BULGARI

● OGER ● WOLFORD ● PHILIPP PLEIN ● ● ● ● ●

Café PC

RALPH LAUREN OGER DONNA CAROLINE BISS HERMÈS BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

VAN DE VELDESTRAAT

● TOMMY HILFIGER

PAU LU S P OT T ER ST R AAT

PC HOOFTSTRAAT

● DOUGLAS ● MICHAEL KORS ● LAUREL ● MARINA RINALDI ● PEAK PERFORMANCE ● DIESEL BLACK GOLD ● VALENTINO ● ICI PARIS XL ● HILFIGER DENIM

JANLUIJKENSTRAAT

VO S SIU S S T R A AT

TIFFANY & CO. ● MONCLER ● ANNE FONTAINE ● AGENT PROVACATEUR ● DIOR ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● THE KOOPLES ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● LORENZO FUENTE ● AB DONKERS ● MAX MARA ● CHURCH’S ● MCGREGOR ● LIFESTYLE ● HUGO BOSS ● AZZURRO KIDS ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● ICE ICEBERG ● NESPRESSO ● CLAUDIA STRÄTER ● CARTIER ● PAUL SMITH ● AZZURRO DUE ● HUGO BOSS ● BLUE BLOOD ● AZZURRO ●

VAN BAERLESTRAAT

● MONTBLANC

PAU LU S P OT T ER STRA AT

PC H OOFTSTRAAT

VOSSIUSST RA AT

MULBERRY ●

PA U L U S P OT T ER ST R A AT

KIEHL’S ● HOPM AN ● DENH AM THE JEAN MAKE R ●

HOBBEMASTR AAT

● FOUR BY AZZURRO ● FILIPPA K ● MASSIMO DUTTI

VAN BAERLESTRAAT

Vondelpark

Global Blue Retailer Café

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

www.omegawatches.com

PRESENTS

STARRING

NICOLE KIDMAN

84 | G U I D E

Leidsestraat SINGEL

● ACE & SPYER ● ANTONY MORATO ● COUNTRY STYLE ● SHOEBALOO

GSUS INDUSTRIES ●

● BLUE BLOOD ● HARTMAN EN HARTMAN ● OCCHIALI OPTICIENS

SCHELTEMA ●

H E R EN

GR AC H

H E R EN

G R AC H

● HUGO BOSS ECCO ● CALIDA SHOEBALOO INVOTIS LUSH PAUW COS JUST BRANDS SOUVENIRS JULIETTE POUR ROMEO IITALIA

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

WE FASHION ● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ●

S G R AC

BY FABRIO ●

BOOTS MANFIELD HENRI WILLIG CHEESE & MORE DE TUINEN

● ● ● ●

HARTMAN CIGARS ● RITUALS ● AAT KE RE KS TR

REPLAY ACCESSORIZE NOON CORA KEMPERMAN DA SUNGLASS HUT TOURS & TICKETS

P R IN S E N G R

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

AC H T

CYNTHIA ●

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

LEIDSESTRAAT

K EISER

P.30

DANIELE DENTIA ● BUGABOO ●

● YOUNG DESIGNERS UNITED

● ● ● ● ● ●

INVITO ADIDAS SUPERTRASH G-STAR WOMEN KAREN MILLEN SISSY-BOY

● ● ● ● ● ●

PALLADIUM ACE TRENDS DR. ADAMS HUNKEMULLER ONITSUKA TIGER R AC H T SACHA SE R S G

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

MAG BAG CHASIN’ PAUL WARMER BRANDY LOVES MELVILLE AAKO BIZAR SOUVENIRS PANDORA FILIPPA K TIMBERLAND SOUVENIRS CAMPER

K EI

● BOTTICELLI LIMITED ● NEW ZEALAND AUCKLAND ● PYLONES ● ICI PARIS XL ● SOUVENIRSHOP DE AMSTERDAMMER ● IKKS WOMEN ● RAAK

P R IN SE N GR

AC H T

● SAM FRIDAY ● THE BODY SHOP

Non-Global Blue Retailer

86 | G U I D E

Rotterdam MOLENWATER WEG

SHI

EIN

FTS

EST

T RAA

LE FP IN

EPL

DEL

TR A

DE HOFPL

WEE

N A -Z

U ID

KO R

IJN

BA A

P.29

BA A N

STR

CINEMA PATHÉ

TE L

L IJ N

IN PLE

MAN

ADE

OOR

BUR

IS K

SCHAAP & CITROEN

EL D

OUW

KRU

GEL

T RAA

Happy Sushi SCH

IS S T

K AR

K RU

Grand Hotel Central

L SIN

BA A

The Manhatan Hotel

CO O

EN A

L IJ N

NA WEE

RIJ

TS ELF

IES

EK A

SCH

ESS

TR A

CO O L

A AT

SING

M AU RI TS W

AN N RT V

EG M AU

W E ST ER SIN

O VA N

LDE

STR RN N B A E V E LT

BA A

OO RM AN RA

B IN N

ENW

EGP

LEA

A AT

ITSW

STR

BUS

M AUR

JACO

A AT

STR

LIJN

R IT S

GEL

E UD

A AT

BIN

Place Of Interest

Tourist Information

Restaurant

Hotel

STB

LAA

S H O P | 87

The Hague FR ED ER TR

IN GR AC E

T AA

WI LL EM ST RA AT

RN ZE KA

A TR ES

NO OR DE IN

O VO

E HOG

P.53

NIE

ROYAL PALACE Paleistuin

T RA A

globalblue.com

T AA

T RA

Plein 1g Hofvijver

G BER ER JV South Of Houston

ITE

A AT

I EV

STR

T AA

Taste

HOFKWARTIER

T UI

W EG

PASSAGE S

I PU

OIK

ART BOULEVARD

EX KA

I UR

Oker

T AA

RG BU

N PE

IK S

D KA LP HE SC

OU AL NT CA

Koetjes & Kalfes

88 | G U I D E

Designer Outlet Roermond

Designer Outlet Roermond, Stadsweide 2, 6041 TD Roermond, +31 (0)475 351777, designer-outlet-roermond.com

globalblue.com

Opening times Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

S H O P | 89

PERFECT DAY

How To gET THERE

10am

By car

Begin the day by embracing nautical styling at Dutch casual clothing label Gaastra.

From Maastricht, take the A73 to exit 19 for Roermond. Follow the signs to Roermond and then follow the signs to ‘Designer outlet’.

12pm Take time out to pick up a technologically advanced and on-trend digital watch from Seiko.

From Eindhoven, take the Dutch A2 to exit 40 for Roermond. Follow the signs to Roermond (N280) and then follow the signs to ‘Designer outlet’ By train

3pm Join the Swedish style revolution at Filippa K where simple lines and a calm colour scheme dominate.

Designer outlet Roermond is just 10 minutes’ walk from Roermond Central Station. when you leave the station, cross Stationsplein and follow the signs to Designer outlet Roermond. For train times and ticket prices, please visit ns.nl

5pm

7pm

True Religion jeans refect the quintessential Americana look with high-quality denim cotton and a rebellious edge.

Explore East Asian cuisine at Asia Cocos where Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese foods all feature on the menu.

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our refund ofces.

Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €50 and save up to 16% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund ofces an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 97 / 100 Lihat halaman 104 untuk terjemahan artikel ini

Refund Ofces

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport

Gates E Lounge 2

Gates F

Lounge 3

1 Departures 2

Gates D Lounge 1

Gates G 22

3 30

Gate G20

Departures 1

Gates B-C

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport

Key Global Blue Refund Ofce

Airside

Landside

1. Terminal 3 Departure Hall 3 - next to customs and close to passport control Open: 7am - 8.30pm

Check-In Area

Security Control

Landside

Customs Stamp

2. Terminal 2 Departure Hall 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; before check-in, ofce 12 Open: 9am - 5pm (closed on Sundays)

Airside

Stairs

Departures 3

Information

globalblue.com

3. Terminal 3 Entrance B next to customs, Open: 7am - 8.30pm

Translations Русский Перевод 36: Men’s Room

Мужской номер Горизонт голландской мужской моды приобрел ярко выраженные черты, по мере того как все больше местных дизайнеров демонстрируют свои инновационные подходы к мужской одежде, – рассказывает Салли МакИлхоун

Недавние плоды творчества голландских талантов в области моды доказывают, что Нидерланды готовы потягаться с такими городами, как Милан, Париж и Лондон. Дизайнеры придают костюмам инновационные штрихи в виде globalblue.com

деревянных воротников и все чаще используют элементы водолазных костюмов, чтобы хоть как-то привлечь внимание искушенных покупателей. Помимо модернизации бессмертной мужской классики, в новом сезоне дизайнеры продолжают развивать направление за счет выпуска капсульных коллекций, независящих от трендов, стирания грани между спортивной и мужской одеждой, а также обращения к теме андрогинности. Франциско ван Бентум запустил свой бренд мужской одежды в 2003 году. Замеченный голландской ассоциацией моды Dutch Fashion Foundation, ван Бентум получил в 2012 году один из самых престижных в стране грантов – Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium. Его последняя коллекция включает строгие брюки с вставками из переработанного картона, пальто из того же материала, что шьются гидрокостюмы и куртки-бомберы в стиле 1990-х, и все это дополнено обилием интригующих узоров. «Мне нравится экспериментировать с кодексами и стилями мужской одежды, а также расширять ее границы», – говорит он. В частности, в этом сезоне ван Бентум проводил эксперименты с традиционным

костюмом и переосмыслял давно устоявшиеся образцы, дополняя их специальными тканями. Для него крайне важными являются инновации в формальной одежде, при этом свое вдохновение он находит в спортивном снаряжении: «Мне нравится создавать нечто среднее между официальным костюмом и профессиональной спортивной одеждой». В 2012 году ван Бентум открыл свой магазин в стильном амстердамском районе Nine Streets – настоящей кузнице творчества, собравших воедино голландских модельеров. По мнению дизайнера, отсутствие характерных модных традиций позволило нидерландским модельерам сформировать независимый и уникальный в своем роде стиль. «Голландцы не могут похвастаться богатой историей или традициями в области костюма, по крайней мере, такими, какие существуют в Италии или Франции, – поясняет ван Бентум, – Это дает нам большую свободу в нашем подходе к дизайну одежды. Протеже ван Бентума Джонатан Кристофер с ним соглашается. Его последняя коллекция «Vanitas» отличается довольно независимым подходом к дизайну и практически размывает границы между мужским и женским образом. Мужские пальто у него украшает искусственный мех на рукавах, а кимоно приобрели

характерные черты сильного пола. «Голландская мужская одежда бросает вызов традициям за счет уникального кроя, оригинальных тканей и современных технологий», – говорит Кристофер. Джонатан Кристофер еще один дизайнер, который не желает мириться с правилами мужских коллекций, но, тем не менее, продолжает создавать одежду, идеально подходящую для современного гардероба. «Я пытаюсь убрать границы в одежде, оставляя при этом характерные мужские черты, так чтобы она выглядела коммерчески привлекательной абсолютно для всех», – поясняет он. Например, рубашки из его коллекции «Vanitas» имеют деревянные воротники с рисунками, нанесенными на них при помощи лазера. «Это прекрасная деталь, однако, мне еще предстоит над ней поработать и придать ей устойчивость к износу. Так, недавно я создал двойной воротник, который можно отстегнуть, чтобы рубашку можно было стирать», – говорит он. Подобно многим голландским дизайнерам Джонатан Кристофер, создавший кардиганы в стиле кимоно для любителей поэкспериментировать и рубашки с отстегивающимися воротниками для поклонников авангарда, признает, что мужчины все чаще

задумываются о разнообразии своего гардероба. «Мужчины слегка устали от стандартного набора серых вещей. Им хочется иметь нечто большее, чем стандартный костюм, свитер и рубашку, пусть и с новым рисунком. Они хотят иметь такой же разнообразный гардероб, как и у женщин», – считает дизайнер. Однако далеко не каждый сможет согласиться с подобными утверждениями. Для тех, кто предпочитает ограничить обновление своего классического гардероба скромными хипстерскими дополнениями, магазин Haarlemmerdijk марки OntFront, расположенный к северозападу от центра Амстердама, предлагает собственные фирменные костюмы в ретро стиле, а также тщательно выбранные коллекции многих мировых брендов. Дизайнеры OntFront – Томас Овертум и Лиза Койфман предпочитают выпускать индивидуальные модели, нежели коллекции целиком. При этом они зачастую сотрудничают с брендами из других стран. Так, недавнее сотрудничество с калифорнийской обувной маркой Generic Surplus привело к появлению ботинок из замши и твида на шнуровке. «Нам нравится быть местным бутиком, предлагающим продукты международных коллабораций», – поясняет дизайнер. globalblue.com

В съемках для рекламной кампании OntFront участвовали такие знаменитости, как DJ Rich Medina и танцевальный коллектив Dutch Soul Supply. «Фотоснимки и видео из рекламной кампании, размещенной на нашем сайте, привлекли внимание многочисленных блоггеров из разных стран, благодаря чему у нас появилось множество поклонников по всему миру», – рассказывают дизайнеры. И, несмотря на такой международный успех, основатели OntFront считают, что говорить о достижениях голландской моды пока преждевременно. «В Нидерландах есть немало хороших дизайнеров мужской одежды. Однако соревноваться с тяжеловесами мировой индустрии моды им еще рано, несмотря на большой потенциал». Если голландская мода продолжит развиваться в том же темпе, то очевидно, что раскрытие этого потенциала не заставит себя долго ждать. franciscovanbenthum.com, jonathanchristopher.nl, onfront.com 42: Dutch Courage

Голландская смелость Стивен Дойг рассказывает о дизайнерах аксессуаров из Голландии, открывающих миру собственный авангардный стиль

Ни для кого не секрет, что голландцы прекрасно разбираются в актуальной моде. Это прекрасно иллюстрируют бренды стрит-стайла, как G-Star и другие. Более того, авангардные дизайнеры успешно выступают и за пределами Нидерландов: вспомним дуэт Viktor & Rolf или восходящую звезду Майкла ван дер Хама, работающего в Лондоне. Каждый, кто хотя бы раз прогуляется по амстердамскому кварталу Девяти улиц, утвердится в мысли, что голландская мода достойна самых стильных гардеробов. Но наибольший интерес представляет сфера аксессуаров, которая сейчас активно развивается в этой стране. Целому поколению дизайнеров удается переосмыслять традиционные украшения, сумки и обувь в самом необычном ключе. Настоящим признанием и неоспоримым подтверждением актуальности стиля того или иного дизайнера лучше всего может послужить, пожалуй, внимание Lady Gaga. Этот вызов с достоинством приняла Айрис ван Херпен, на которую модное сообщество возлагает большие надежды. Она работала с Александром Маккуином и участвовала в показах парижской высокой моды вместе с великолепной Дафной Гиннесс, фотографом Ником Найтом и датским архитектором-дизайнером

Ремом Колхасом. А с 2007 года ван Херпен создает авангардные, приковывающие взгляд наряды для женщин под собственным брендом. И ее произведения производят впечатление! Одни платья собираются из объемных материалов с принтами. Другие – выглядят так, будто сделаны из костей. Не менее экстравагантно выглядят и обувь с шипами: такое впечатление, будто ботинки оскалились острыми клыками вместо подошвы. Щупальца пришельцев, невообразимым образом изогнутые каблуки, оголенный каркас – неподражаемое оформление любой модели неизменно создает гипнотический эффект. На этом фоне обувь амстердамского дизайнера Элизы ван Джулен кажется куда более удобной для прогулок. Окончив в 2012 году Новую школу дизайна Парсонс в Нью-Йорке (Parsons New School for Design), она отдала предпочтение весьма необычному подходу в этой сфере. Исповедуя принципы этического производства, она перерабатывает неиспользованные материалы таких компаний, как Nike, Converse и Clarks. Все собранное (как правило, остатки пробных тиражей) она преображает в яркие вещи стрит-стайла, вывернув предварительно наизнанку. Таким образом, логотипы глобальных брендов

оказывают внутри и незаметны снаружи. Подобная любовь к остроумию и простоте способна превращать голландские бренды аксессуаров в лидеров модной гонки. По крайней мере, компания Royal Republiq руководствуется именно этим, создавая лаконичные и стильные аксессуары из кожи. Основатель Николя Кьяер изначально создал концептуальный лейбл для мужчин, а затем под этой же маркой появилась и женская кожгалантерея. Большие сумки, клатчи и идеальная для амстердамских улиц крепкая обувь – все производится исключительно из натуральной кожи с применением естественных красителей. Мужской ассортимент также предполагает привлекающие внимание предметы, в частности, яркие рюкзаки и объемные сумки-холдаллы. Благодаря отменной выделке материалов, эти вещи очень красиво стареют: Royal Republiq ценит обаяние подобранных с любовью аксессуаров больше сезонных трендов. Сандра Турина, еще одна обитательница Амстердама, подобным образом переосмысляет традиции, но на этот раз в ювелирной сфере, и создает неоднозначные, остроумные и элегантные вещи. Дизайнер отдает предпочтение дереву, пластику и металлической фольге в globalblue.com

работе над яркими ожерельями и брошками. Деревянные подвески в форме бриллиантов играют с представлениями об изысканных ювелирных украшениях. В то же время, в творческом ключе переосмысляются даже самые простые предметы: обратите внимание на то, как Турина использует фигурки оригами или желуди. Это совсем не похоже на ювелирную эстетику, которую принято считать эталонной: стиль этого дизайнера выглядит более свежим и остроумным по своему подходу. Завершить знакомство с голландскими аксессуарами можно в амстердамском Музей сумок Tassenmuseum. Его экспозиция объединяет обширную частную коллекцию Хендрикье Иво и сменяющиеся самостоятельные проекты. В одном месте специально собраны роскошные французские клатчи 18 века и бунтарские сумки haute couture Джанни Версаче, культовые модели Kelly от Hermès и впечатляющие переметные сумки Dior. После вдохновляющей экскурсии в этот музей вам непременно захочется внимательнее осмотреться в амстердамских магазинах. irisvanherpen.com, elisavanjoolen.com, royalrepubliq.com, turinajewellery.com, tassenmuseum.nl

90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €50 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых

пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными. 美文翻译

36: Men's Room 男士领域荷兰男装凭自身之力跃上时尚舞台，号召越来越多的设计师踏上创新之路，装扮该国最酷的男士们。Sally McIlhone报道近年来荷兰男装设计人才涌现，证明该国正史无前例地向米兰、巴黎和伦敦靠拢。设计师以创意翻新传统剪裁，譬如以木质衣领和潜水服材料，创造出令当代消费者为之驻足的震撼作品。这些设计师不仅以摩登手法改良经典男装，还继续努力突破男装边界，或是发布无季节性胶囊系列，或是模糊正装与运动服间的分界，亦或是在新一季推出中性化的廓型设计。 Fra ncisco va n Bent hu m在 2 0 03 年推出了自己的男装品牌。荷兰时装基金会注意到这位新晋人才的天赋，在 2 012 年授予 v a n B e n t h u m 该国颁发给设计师的最高奖金，Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium Cultuurfonds。他的最新系列包括褶皱腰部的松裆西装长裤，以潜水服材料制成的大衣，1990年代风格的短夹克，与复杂的光泽感印花。 “我喜欢挑战男装现有的标准与制约，探索其边界延伸的可能性。”他说。尤其在本季van Benthum大胆玩转传统剪裁，以科技面料重新解读久经时间考验的男装经典基本款。他解释，创新剪裁对自己很重要，表演性体育服装是他的灵感来源之一： “我喜欢将传统剪裁与创新科技细节混合一体。”

2 0 1 2 年开业的Va n B e n t h u m 阿姆斯特丹店，地处时尚的 Nine Streets地区——一座展示荷兰设计师巧思的创意大熔炉。他认为正因为荷兰没有强盛的时尚传统，荷兰男装设计才变得更具指向性和独特。 “ 我们荷兰人没有设计或制造服装的历史或传统，至少没有像意大利人和法国人那样的， ”van Benthum 解释道。 “这也赋予我们更大的自由度，对设计理念也持有更加开放的态度。” Van Benthum 的得意门生Jonathan Christopher也认同这点。他的最新系列，Vanitas，展现出一种对于设计无比开放的态度，传统观念中阳刚与阴柔的界限被打破。他为男士高级定制大衣装上人造皮毛袖管，同时将廓型变得更为女性化。 “荷兰男装在剪裁、材质选择、服装背后的材料与科技上，都在不断挑战现状。”Christopher 进一步阐明。 Jonathan Christopher 是另一位着迷于弯曲男性时尚‘规则’ ，但同时又竭力制造真实生活中可穿服饰的设计师。 “我挑战界限，但仍将作品视为男性专属，我试图让自己的作品同样具有商业吸引力。”他表示。例如，他 Vanitas系列中的衬衣，使用激光切割印染的木料制作衣领。 “虽然这是一个很棒的细节，但我反复思考其是否耐磨损，最后选择了一个可拆卸的双领设计，让这件衬衣可以水洗， ”设计师说道。从为更具冒险精神着装者设计的和服款毛衣，到为只喜衣着中带有些许前卫的人们打造的可拆卸木领衬衣，Jonathan Christopher与其他荷兰男装设计师们都认识到，男性衣橱正变得愈发个性化。 “男性们已经厌倦了长期以来被灌输的正统着装观念， ”Christopher承认。 “他们渴望除传统西服、毛衣与印花衬衣之外的单品，他们希望自己的衣橱如同女性一般多样化。” globalblue.com

然而，戏剧话的服装并非适合每个人。对于偏好改良款经典男装基本款的人们，不妨一探OntFront位于阿姆斯特丹城中西北部 Haarlemmerdijk 的店铺，这里提供品牌旗下剪裁复古的产品系列，以及来自其他国家的精选男装品牌。设计师 Tomas Overtoom 与 Liza Koifman 相比完整系列，更喜欢推出设计单品，他们经常与其他国际品牌合作：最近一次是与加州鞋类品牌Generic Surplus的合作结晶是手工制作的麂皮与斜纹软呢系带鞋。 “我们想要坚持专注国际合作的本地精品店铺的定位。” Ont Front 同样因在网站上摆放 DJ Rich Medina与跳舞团体Dutch S ou l Supply 等人的照片而名声鹊起。 “出于摄影主题博客与在线视频的国际影响力，我们吸引了来自世界各地的顾客。”他们解释道。此外，即便 OntFront已然影响力遍布全球，品牌设计者对于荷兰男装当前的影响力仍保持令人惊讶的谦逊。 “的确是有一些伟大的荷兰男装设计师。在世界舞台上他们还不能与最强的对手匹敌。但机遇是存在的。” 如果荷兰男装长期保持目前的轨迹前进，那我们可以确信，机遇化作现实的日子不会太远。 benthum.com, jonathanchristopher.nl, onfront.com

42: Dutch Courage 勇于突破的荷兰人荷兰的配饰设计师们已然成为突破性风格的先锋缔造者，Stephen Doig 报道荷兰对于前卫潮流的突出成就，早已是公开的秘密。无论是街头时尚品牌 G - Star，还是那些早已跨出荷兰、在各大时尚之都掀起热潮的创意天才：

99 从荷兰设计双子星Viktor & Rolf，到在伦敦冉冉升起的新星 Michael van der H a m 。任何探索过阿姆斯特丹 Nine Streets 地区的人们都会同意，荷兰时装设计完全有实力为人们打造完美的时尚衣橱。如今更令人刮目相看的是，该国的配饰设计也顺势崛起，一批设计师们正在重塑珠宝、手袋与鞋履，并将其推向极致。若要知道一个品牌的设计师是否立于潮流的最前端，看其作品是否出现在Lady Gaga的造型中无疑是一种公平的判断标准。标新立异的荷兰设计师 Iris van Herpen 张扬地做到了这点。自2 0 0 7 年创立自己的品牌开始，她就致力于创造充满视觉冲击力的女装。之前她曾为 A lexander McQueen工作，并被邀请与时尚传奇Daphne Guinness、摄影师 Nick Knight与荷兰创意建筑与设计师 Rem D Koolhaas 一起，共同参与巴黎高级定制展。她的每件设计都让人咋舌：有使用三维打印制成的服装；有看上去像是用骨头造出的作品。她的鞋履设计同样充满实验性：有些长着原始的獠牙（像是以参差利齿作鞋底的the fang shoe），有些像是被外星生物的触须所包裹着，还有不少作品有着夸张、弯曲、抑或网格般的鞋跟设计。这些作品所呈现的视觉效果总是如此大胆迷人。相比之下，另一位投身创意鞋履设计的荷兰人，Elisa van Joolen 的作品或许更为实穿。这位 2012年刚从纽约帕森设计学院毕业的阿姆斯特丹新人，采用独辟蹊径的手法与道德理念设计鞋履，她循环使用从耐克、匡威与Clarks品牌那里回收的材料，并将这些囤积的素材（通常是剩余的样鞋）进行改造，打造出引人注目的街头风流行单品。她的创意手法主要是将鞋子内外反转，让鞋的内侧暴露在外，于是任何品牌信息标示也被同样颠倒过来。

有些时候，又恰是专注手工与简约设计，让荷兰的杰出配饰品牌脱颖而出。Royal Republiq 就秉承着这样的理念，这个皮具品牌从男装概念系列起家，之后进军女装配饰领域。品牌的肩背包、手包与扎实靴款（最适宜走在阿姆斯特丹运河边鹅卵石密布的街道上）都运用天然皮革和染料制作。品牌还有为男性设计的延伸系列，提供大胆、鲜艳的背包，以及牢固坚实的旅行包。纯手工打造的皮革，让这些产品随着岁月流逝而变得更为迷人，品牌也专注于为人们奉上爱用、耐用的产品，而非随波逐流、跟着每季流行而改变。阿姆斯特丹还聚集着一批同样将传统配饰打造成颠覆、智慧且优雅的作品的珠宝设计师。Sandra Turina 使用木材、塑料和金属箔，演绎让人赞叹的项链和胸针作品。她在项链吊坠上镶嵌巧妙雕琢的钻石型木料，来挑战传统的高级珠宝理念，在她的手中最不起眼的素材都能用来制作珠宝。值得留意的还有她对折纸与橡果造型的运用。这些都不是我们刻板印象中的美丽珠宝，Turina 运用了更为新颖与独特的手法。

100 如果上述店铺贩售的配饰还不够丰富，阿姆斯特丹还拥有引以为傲的手袋博物馆、Tassen museu m 博物馆、那里陈列着社会名流 Hen drikje Ivo的私人手袋收藏，以及博物馆自身收集的馆藏。参观者们可以在那里一览从18世纪的奢华法国手包，缤纷的 Gianni Versace女式定制手袋，标志性的Hermès Kelly包到令人驻足的Dior马鞍包等展品。在此地汲取灵感之后，再去尽情探索阿姆斯特丹的琳琅店铺吧。 irisvanherpen.com, elisavanjoolen.com, royalrepubliq.com, turinajewellery.com, tassenmuseum.nl

90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（G l o b a l B l u e ）购物退税服务（ Ta x F r e e Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。

2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。

globalblue.com

联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€50 并且节约高达购买价格 16%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。 Terjemahan Bahasa Indonesia

36: Men's Room Kamar Ganti Pria Busana pria Belanda mendapat panggungnya sendiri dengan kian banyak perancang menemukan cara inovatif mendandani pemuda-pemuda terkeren negeri ini. Oleh Sally McIlhone Angkatan terbaru bakat busana pria Belanda membuktikan bahwa negara ini kini lebih siap bersaing dengan raksasa mode seperti Milan, Paris, dan London. Para perancang memutakhirkan seni jahit dengan sentuhan inovatif seperti kerah kayu dan menggunakan bahan pakaian selam untuk menciptakan koleksi mencolok yang memincut pembelanja modern. Selain memodernisasi busana pria klasik, para perancang ini memperlebar batas-batas busana pria dengan, misalnya, menghasilkan koleksi kapsul segala musim, mengaburkan garis batas antara busana pria dan busana olahraga, dan memanfaatkan bentuk-bentuk androgini untuk musim baru. Francisco van Benthum meluncurkan label busana prianya di

101

tahun 2003. Tercatat sebagai bakat yang naik daun oleh Dutch Fashion Foundation, di tahun 2012 van Benthum menerima Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium, hibah terbesar yang disediakan bagi perancang negara ini. Koleksi terbarunya menonjolkan celana panjang setelan (suit) dengan pinggang kantong kertas, mantel yang dibuat dari bahan baju skuba, jaket bomber ala 1990-an, dan kilas-kilas pola yang rumit. ‘Saya suka menerabas aturan dan larangan busana pria, serta menjelajahi dan merentangkan batas-batasnya,’ ujarnya. Khususnya di musim ini, van Benthum mengolah seni jahit tradisional dan menafsirkan ulang unsur-unsur pokok busana pria klasik dengan bahan serat teknis. Ia menjelaskan bahwa seni jahit inovatif penting baginya dan bahwa busana olahraga kompetisi adalah sebuah inspirasi: ‘Saya suka memadukan dunia seni jahit dengan rincian teknis yang inovatif.’ Toko van Benthum di Amsterdam dibuka pada tahun 2012 di area Nine Streets yang trendi– sebuah kuali lebur (melting pot) kreativitas yang memamerkan kecerdikan para perancang mode Belanda. Dia merasa bahwa ketidakhadiran warisan busana yang gigih di Belanda telah menjadikan perancang-perancang busana prianya lebih mengarahkan tren dan unik. ‘Kami orang Belanda tidak memiliki sejarah atau tradisi apa pun dalam berpakaian, sedikitnya tidak dengan cara yang dianut orang-orang Italia atau Prancis,’ urai van Benthum. ‘Hal ini mem-

beri kami kebebasan memakai pendekatan yang lebih terbuka mengenai visi tentang desain.’ Jonathan Christoper, anak didik van Benthum, mengiyakan. Koleksi terbarunya, Vanitas, memiliki pendekatan amat terbuka terhadap desain, lewat pengaburan konsep tradisional tentang maskulin dan feminin. Jas adijahit (tailored) pria diberi lengan bulu imitasi, sementara siluet kimono diberi tampilan maskulin. ‘Busana pria Belanda menantang status quo saat ini lewat potongan, penggunaan serat, bahan, dan teknologi yang tersembunyi di garmen mereka,’ Christopher menjelaskan. Jonathan Christopher adalah perancang lain yang terpesona dengan langgam mematahkan ‘aturan’ busana pria sambil tetap menciptakan pakaian yang akan pantas dikenakan di lemari baju dunia nyata. ‘Saya menguak batasbatas ini, namun tetap melihatnya sebagai pakaian laki-laki, dan saya juga mencoba menjaganya tetap menarik secara komersial,’ urainya. Misalnya, kemeja-kemeja di koleksi Vanitas miliknya mengusung kerah dari kayu yang dipotong dan dicetak dengan laser. ‘Walau ini sentuhan yang hebat, saya harus memikirkannya dengan menyeluruh karena faktor keusangan dan keausan, jadi, saya buat kerah ganda yang bisa dilepaspasang agar kemeja bisa dicuci,’ ujarnya. Dengan kimono-kardigan untuk pebusana yang lebih berani bereksperimen dan kemeja berkerah kayu lepas-pasang untuk

102

laki-laki yang lebih suka sedikit kilasan kecanggihan, Jonathan Christopher dan para perancang busana pria Belanda lainnya melihat bahwa pria masa kini semakin berusaha memperkaya isi lemari pakaian mereka. ‘Laki-laki sudah bosan dengan model dasar yang disodorkan,’ aku Christopher. ‘Mereka ingin bisa mendapatkan sesuatu selain setelan, sweater, dan kemeja biasa yang diberi corak baru. Mereka ingin lemari baju yang semeriah lemari perempuan.’ Akan tetapi, ungkapan seni jahit dramatis ini tidak untuk semua orang. Bagi yang lebih suka model panggul baru dari unsur pokok busana pria klasik, toko OntFront di Haarlemmerdijk, di barat laut pusat kota Amsterdam, menawarkan jahitan retro dari merek ini, serta label-label busana pria pilihan dari negara-negara lain. Para perancangnya, Tomas Overtoom dan Liza Koifman, lebih suka meluncurkan desain satuan alih-alih koleksi lengkap, sering berkolaborasi dengan label-label internasional lain: kemitraan baru-baru ini dengan Generic Surplus, sebuah merek alas kaki California, menghasilkan sepatu bertali buatan tangan dari suede dan wol tweed. ‘Kami suka menjadi butik lokal dengan kolaborasi internasional,’ ujar mereka. OntFront juga dikenal karena menggunakan fgur-fgur seperti DJ Rich Medina dan grup tari Dutch Soul Supply dalam pengambilan foto di situs webnya. ‘Kami memiliki klien dari seluruh dunia, karena jangkauan internaglobalblue.com

sional blog tentang pengambilan foto dan video daring kami,’ jelas mereka. Namun, walaupun jangkauan OntFront sudah internasional, para perancangnya tetap sangat merendah tentang pengaruh busana pria Belanda saat ini. ‘Ada beberapa perancang busana pria Belanda yang hebat. Di panggung dunia, mereka masih belum bersaing dengan yang terbaik. Tetapi, potensi untuk itu ada.’ Jika busana pria Belanda melanjutkan kemajuannya di jalur ini, kiranya tidak akan lama sebelum potensi ini terwujud. franciscovanbenthum.com, jonathanchristopher.nl, onfront.com 42: Dutch Courage

Keberanian Ala Belanda Para perancang aksesori Belanda telah menjadi perintis terobosan dalam gaya, sebagaimana yang ditemukan Stephen Doig Bukan rahasia bahwa Belanda telah menapakkan jejak jika menyangkut busana deretan depan. Lihat misalnya, merek busana jalan (streetwear) seperti G-Star, atau para perancang inovatif yang merambah keluar Negeri Oranye dan membangkitkan gelombang di sejumlah ibu kota mode: ingat duo Belanda Viktor & Rolf atau Michael van der Ham, bintang yang naik daun di London. Dan seperti akan dibenarkan siapa saja yang sudah menyusuri kawasan tumbuh pesat Nine Streets di Amsterdam, lemari baju bergaya disesaki oleh

103

suasana busana Belanda. Namun, yang menarik saat ini adalah sekadar betapa kreatif juga bentang aksesori negara ini, dengan seabrek perancang mendesain ulang perhiasan, tas, dan alas kaki dengan efek yang megah. Jika sebuah label mode mencari bukti puncak bahwa para perancangnya ada di barisan terdepan, cukup wajar mengatakan bahwa mendandani Lady Gaga merupakan penghargaan terbaik. Tantangan itu telah dipenuhi dengan seronok oleh gaco mode Belanda Iris van Herpen. Ia telah menciptakan busana wanita yang mencolok secara visual sejak memulai labelnya sendiri di tahun 2007, setelah sebelumnya bekerja dengan Alexander McQueen dan lalu diundang untuk pameran sebagai bagian dari acara adibusana (haute couture) Paris bersama visioner Daphne Guinness, fotografer Nick Knight, dan arsitek sekaligus perancang inovatif Belanda Rem D Koolhaas. Pakaiannya membuat terbelalak: sebagiannya dibuat dengan bahan cetakan tiga dimensi; lainnya tampak seakan-akan tulang yang dibuat modis. Sepatunya benar-benar sarat eksperimen: mengusung taji-taji purba (sepatu taring, dengan gigi berigi-rigi yang berfungsi sebagai sol), yang penuh sesuatu yang terlihat seperti tentakel alien, tumit lengkung mencolok, atau kisi-kisi yang rumit. Efeknya selalu tegas dan memikat. Mungkin sebuah sentuhan yang lebih praktis dikenakan adalah label Elisa van Joolen, seorang perancang Belanda lainnya yang telah

mengalihkan tangan kreatifnya ke alas kaki. Pendatang baru asal Amsterdam lulusan tahun 2012 Parsons New School for Design di New York ini mengambil pendekatan tidak biasa terhadap desain sepatu dan produksi etis, lewat mendaur ulang bahan dari raksasa-raksasa seperti Nike, Converse, dan Clarks, dan menyesuaikan apa saja yang ia kumpulkan (sering berasal dari stok sampel sisa) menjadi mode yang mencolok berilham dari jalanan. Metode kerjanya biasanya berfokus pada pembalikan sepatu sehingga bagian dalam menyeruak keluar, dan setiap pencitraan merek dibalik dengan cerdik. Kadang-kadang, fokus pada kemahiran dan kesederhanaanlah yang mengangkat label aksesori terkemuka Belanda di atas yang lain. Inilah etos di balik Royal Republiq, sebuah label kulit yang menciptakan barang-barang yang diciutkan. Didirikan oleh Nicolas Kjaer, merek ini memulai hidupnya sebagai label konsep untuk laki-laki sebelum merambah ke aksesori perempuan. Kulit dan celup warna alami digunakan untuk tas tote, tas genggam (clutch), dan sepatu bot tangguhnya (yang pas saat menapaki jalanan berbatu tepi kanal di Amsterdam). Ada sederet barang pria yang juga bersinar, dari ransel yang tegas dan cerah hingga tas serbaguna (hold-all) yang solid. Berkat seni kriya kulit, barangbarang ini terlihat makin wah sambil menua; merek ini telah memilih daya tarik â&#x20AC;&#x153;cinta pakaiâ&#x20AC;? daripada perubahan musiman yang dipacu tren.

104

Amsterdam juga berfungsi sebagai pangkalan bagi seorang perancang perhiasan yang turut menjungkirbalikkan aksesori tradisional guna menciptakan barang-barang yang memberontak, jenaka, dan anggun. Sandra Turina menggunakan bahan-bahan seperti kayu, plastik, dan kertas logam untuk merancang kalung dan bros yang seronok. Bentuk berlian kayu yang dipotong rumit pada liontinnya bermain-main dengan bayangan perhiasan mulia, sementara benda yang paling sederhana pun berlaku sebagai materi pokok. Perhatikan, misalnya, penggunaan origami dan buah ek. Ini bukan stereotip perhiasan yang manis secara konvensional, dan karya Turina lebih segar dan ganjil bagi pendekatan ini. Jika limpahan aksesori yang ada ini tidak cukup, Amsterdam juga mengagulkan museum tas tangannya sendiri, Tassenmuseum, tempat koleksi tas pribadi tokoh masyarakat Hendrikje Ivo dipamerkan bersama koleksi yang dikembangkan museum itu. Pengunjung bisa menjelajahi tas-tas genggam Prancis mewah dari abad ke-18 hingga tas atas-pesanan Gianni Versace yang liar, tas HermĂ¨s Kelly yang ikonis, dan tas sadel Dior yang memukau Setelah sebuah perjalanan sarat ilham di museum ini, toko-toko Amsterdam menunggu dijelajahi. irisvanherpen.com, elisavanjoolen.com, royalrepubliq.com, turinajewellery.com, tassenmuseum.nl globalblue.com

90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Saat ingin memborong dunia, belanjalah bebas pajak Belanja Bebas Pajak Global Blue memberi Anda penghematan atas pembelian di lebih dari 270.000 toko di berbagai kawasan belanja terbaik di dunia. Jadi, mengapa tidak bergabung dengan 26 juta wisatawan yang berbelanja bebas pajak bersama Global Blue setiap tahun? Cukup cari tanda bintang biru atau tanyakan tentang Global Blue, lalu ikuti proses gampang kami. 1. Belanja Kapan saja Anda berbelanja, mintalah Formulir Bebas Pajak Global Blue dan simpan baik-baik bon / tanda terima Anda. 2. Klaim Ketika berangkat pulang, kunjungi loket pabean di titik keberangkatan untuk meminta persetujuan atas bon sebelum menagih pengembalian dana di salah satu meja layanan pelanggan kami. Kontak: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Belanjalah minimum â&#x201A;Ź50 dan hemat hingga 16% dari harga pembelian. Di beberapa titik pengembalian dana, ongkos tetap tambahan per Formulir Bebas Pajak akan dikenakan jika Anda meminta pengembalian dana dalam bentuk tunai.

106 | P RO D U C T S

Souvenir

RED HOT This shimmering clutch by Amsterdam-based designer Hester van Eeghen has a stingray skin exterior and a calfskin interior and is designed to be worn on the hand like jewellery. Early civilisations associated stingrays with power and, based on this notion, van Eeghenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bag combines modern elegance with bold colours. Van Eeghen remains as involved in her work as she Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

was 30 years ago when she left law studies to pursue her passion for accessories design. She continues to design each piece from her studio in Amsterdam, before travelling to Milan to oversee manufacture in carefully selected workshops. hl Hester van Eeghen clutch bag, â&#x201A;Ź550, Hester van Eeghen, Hartenstraat 37, 1016 CA Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 9212, hestervaneeghen.com for map go to page 78

Sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores and on louisvuitton.com. Tel. 020 575 57 75

Download the Louis Vuitton pass app to reveal exclusive content.