SHOP Iceland SS14

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This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Iceland has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile app is another great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 34. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

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Contributors

Tómas Bolli Hafthorsson Tómas Bolli Hafthorsson was born in Reykjavík. For this edition of SHOP Iceland, Tómas has sought out some of the island’s leading shops, labels and products to keep you up to date with the latest developments. When Tómas isn’t working he loves to enjoy a glass of Champagne in the company of good friends. globalblue.com

Robert Hanson Illustrator Robert Hanson created the cover illustration for this season’s edition of SHOP Iceland. His quirky and colourful style is perfect for this cover, which shows a woman wearing a necklace comprising little buildings arranged as an Icelandic mountain scene, referring to our feature about Iceland’s jewellery designers on page 36. Robert has previously created artwork for clients including Creative Review, the New York Times and Monocle among others. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes on a wide range of subjects to publications that include Wallpaper, Esquire and the Financial Times. Here, he writes about the Icelandic brands providing stylish and technically advanced outdoor clothing. Josh's latest book is 50 Years of British Style Culture.

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Robert Hanson Contributors Tómas Bolli Hafthorsson, Beth Druce, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Dan O’Brien SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Distribution project assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E ICE L A N D Country manager Helgi Jonsson Marketing coordinator Herdís Anna Ingimarsdóttir Account manager Kristján Másson Global Blue Iceland, Sætúni 1, Reykjavík, IS-105

Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Aðalstræti 10, Reykjavík Museum of Design and Applied Art, Garðabær (354) 517 7797 — kraum@kraum.is Find us on Facebook Opening hours June — August 9:00 — 19:00 weekdays 10:00 — 17:00 saturdays 12:00 — 17:00 sundays

Contents

PHOTO: Gr r BjarnasOn

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P ro d u c t s 14 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Iceland this season 16 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 26 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Iceland 28 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F e At u r e s 36 Cover Story: Ice-Cool Creations Inspired by their volcanic landscape, the jewellery designers of Iceland are producing powerfully original pieces, as Beth druce discovers 42 National Heritage traditional crafts are thriving in Iceland, with innovative results. stephen doig reports Above: Zo-on 2014 outdoor clothing

50 Ready For Action Iceland is a world leader when it comes to outdoor clothing. By Josh sims e x Pe r I e Nce 54 Table Talk Iceland’s restaurants ofer a wealth of variety as well as uniquely decorated interiors. Verity Hogan explores a selection of the country’s best 58 My Weekend sHoP shares the highlights of an indulgent short break in Iceland Gu I de 61 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Iceland, plus sHoP’s unique view of the country’s sights esseNtIA ls 72 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping sou V e N I r 74 the essential item to bring home

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Check Out

NoRTheRN LighTS Finnsdottir Ceramics Tales is the name of the handmade ceramics brand set up by design duo Thora Finnsdottir and Anne hof in 2007. Combining their individual strengths in design and craftsmanship respectively, the pair takes inspiration from objects used in everyday life. This glazed porcelain candle holder makes an elegant Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 72

and interesting centrepiece and is available in grey or white. The modern collection also includes vases, lamps, jars and jewellery all with their own quirky details and instantly recognisable as being lovingly created by Finnsdottir Ceramics Tales. tbh Finnsdottir Ceramics Tales Four Elements candle holder, price on request, MĂ˝rin, Kringlan Shopping Centre, 103 ReykjavĂk, +354 578 8989, fnnsdottir.dk

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BIKER CHIC Nothing says rock ’n’ roll quite like a short leather jacket worn with matching accessories

1. Gullkúnst Helgu Craters of Laki ring, 38,600 ISK, Gullkúnst Helgu, Laugavegur 13, 101 Reykjavík, +354 561 6660, gullkunst.is

3. Shoe The Bear boots, 29,900 ISK, Suit Reykjavík, Skólavörðustígur 6, 101 Reykjavík, +354 527 2820, suit.is

2. IRO leather biker jacket, 169,990 ISK, Maia, Laugavegur 7, 101 Reykjavík, +354 552 6067, iro.fr

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4. Levi´s jeans, 18,990 ISK, Levi’s, Kringlan Shopping Centre, 103 Reykjavík, +354 511 1133, levis.com

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Brave the elements in these sporty yet stylish pieces 1

1. Adidas Response trail shoes, 27,990 ISK, Útilíf, Smáralind Shopping Centre, 201 Kópavogur, +354 545 1500, utilif.is 2. 66° North Grandi parka, price on request, 66° North, Bankastræti 5, 101 Reykjavík, +354 535 6680, 66north.com

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3. Michelsen Watchmaker Arctic Explorer watch, 299,000 ISK, Michelsen Watchmaker, Laugavegur 15, 101 Reykjavík, +354 511 1900, michelsen.is 4. Rökkva men’s golf trousers, 16,990 ISK, Zo-on, Bankastræti 10, 101 Reykjavík, +354 527 1050, zo-on.is

PHOTO: (1) SaurO Jr

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HEAVEN SCENT

Shine on the inside and out, with luxurious body products and a statement jacket

1. Freebird embroidered jacket, 79,990 ISK, Freebird, Laugavegur 46, 101 Reykjavík, +354 571 8383, freebirdclothes.com

3. Mûre et Musc Extrême eau de parfum, 50ml, 19,900 ISK, Aurum, Bankastræti 4, 101 Reykjavík, +354 551 2770, artisanparfumeur.com

2. Blue Lagoon Rich Nourishing Cream, 50ml, 13,500 ISK, Blue Lagoon Shop, Laugavegur 15, 101 Reykjavík, +354 420 8849, bluelagoon.com

4. Voluspa scented candle, 6,990 ISK, Maia, Laugavegur 7, 101 Reykjavík, +354 552 6067, voluspa.com

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SMART CASUAL A lightly padded tailored jacket and coloured brogues add a laid-back edge to smart attire 1

1. Ray-Ban Aviator sunglasses, 22,500 ISK, Profl Optik, Gleraugnamiðstöðin, Laugavegur 24, 101 Reykjavík, +354 552 0800, ray-ban.com

3. Marta Jonsson brogues, 24,900 ISK, Marta Jonsson, Laugavegur 51, 101 Reykjavík, +354 553 0816, martajonsson.com

2. Michelsen Watchmaker Godafoss watch, 399,000 ISK, Michelsen Watchmaker, Laugavegur 15, 101 Reykjavík, +354 511 1900, michelsen.is

4. Marmot Njord coat, 89,995 ISK, Fjallakofnn, Laugavegur 11, 101 Reykjavík, +354 510 9505, marmot.com

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N O S U T I COME VIS R 4 U G E V A G LAU TOURIST INFORMATION & BOOKING CENTRE Laugavegur 4 101 Reykajvik

www.whatson.is whatson@whatson.is

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BLACK AND TAN This classic combination never goes out of fashion

1. Ray-Ban Laramie sunglasses, 28,500 ISK, Augað, Kringlan Shopping Centre, 103 Reykjavík, +354 568 9111, ray-ban.com 2. Steinunn Vala Pirouette necklace, 13,200 ISK, Epal, Harpa Concert House, 101 Reykjavík, +354 515 7733, hringeftirhring.is 3. Marta Jonsson bag, 44,990 ISK, Marta Jonsson, Laugavegur 51, 101 Reykjavík, +354 553 0816, martajonsson.com 4. Karen Millen dress, 54,990 ISK, Karen Millen, Kringlan Shopping Centre, 103 Reykjavík, +354 533 1740, karenmillen.com

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Shop Window

GET MORE AT JÖR Icelandic ready-to-wear label JÖR by Guðmundur Jörundsson is known for its impressive menswear, constructed from high-quality fabrics and with a masculine aesthetic. The label also creates womenswear, using its house style Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 72

to give the line a refned edge. Jörundsson’s designs are inspired by his idiosyncratic approach and imaginative concepts. The tailored pieces in black and grey are top of our shopping list this season. tbh JÖR by Guðmundur Jörundsson, Laugavegur 89, 101 Reykjavík, +354 546 1303, jorstore.com * for map go to page 67

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NICE KNITS Those looking for woollen clothing will fnd everything they could possibly need in Álafoss. The stores stock a wide selection of hand-knitted traditional Icelandic sweaters (lopapeysa), neck collars, ponchos, scarves and mittens as well as beautiful throws in natural colours with various patterns and styles. If you are in a creative mood, the Álafoss shop in Mosfellsbær also sells lightweight wool and knitting kits. tbh Álafoss, Laugavegur 8, 101 Reykjavík, +354 562 6303; Álafossvegur 23, 270 Mosfellsbær, +354 566 6303, alafoss.is * for map go to page 66

A STYLE TO SUIT The Danish label Suit has recently opened a new store in Reykjavík. Visitors will fnd smart tailored suits and blazers with ftted fashionable shirts, comfortable knits and well-tailored chinos. The range is created as a capsule wardrobe comprising high-quality clothing for those who aren’t afraid to express a little personality through their fashion choices. tbh Suit Reykjavík, Skólavörðustígur 6, 101 Reykjavík, +354 527 2820, suit.is * for map go to page 70 Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 72

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KRAUM FOR KIDS The newest addition to the Kraum stable, Kraum Junior is stocked with beautiful childrenswear from Icelandic labels including As We Grow, Farmers Market and Hring eftir Hring. Alongside the clothes you will fnd unique pieces such as the Jökull music box by Margét Guðnadóttir which plays Icelandic folk songs, the Gambur rocking horse and beautiful tableware by Sveinbjörg. tbh Kraum, Aðalstræti 10, 101 Reykjavík, +354 517 7797, facebook.com/kraum101 * for map go to page 68

The Gullkúnst Helgu boutique on Laugavegur is one of the best places in the city to shop for jewellery. Inspired by nature, the handmade creations comprise Icelandic stones such as jasper and basalt alongside gold, silver and diamonds. Most pieces are made on the premises and visitors are often invited into the workshop to watch the master jewellers at work. hl Gullkúnst Helgu, Laugavegur 13, 101 Reykjavík, +354 561 6660, gullkunst.is * for map go to page 66

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PHOTO: VIGFUS BIRGISSON/ISLANDS

NATURAL HIGH

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SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL Those who are looking for standout design pieces and unusual gifts will love this small design shop. Minja brings together a careful edit of much-loved local and international design brands including

DESIGN DELIGHTS Within walking distance of the city centre, the Epal design shop inside the new concert hall stocks a plethora of decorative

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Dupond&Dupont, Le Sack, Lexon, Hekla and Bility. Expect to be able to pick up items ranging from a quirky Ross Menuez Fauna pillow to a Dial clock from MoMA. tbh Minja, Skólavörðustígur 12, 101 Reykjavík, +354 578 6090, minja.is * for map go to page 70

and colourful design pieces from Scandinavia along with selected pieces by Icelandic designers. Attention to detail and high-quality are common throughout. tbh Epal, Harpa Concert House, Austurbakki 2, 101 Reykjavík, +354 515 7733, epal.is * for map go to page 68

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BE PREPARED 66° North has been clothing Icelanders for the outdoors since 1926. It started out producing durable workwear and the company now focuses on good quality contemporary outdoor clothing for men, women and children. Situated in the heart of Reykjavík, the store has a range of parkas, sweaters, jackets, trousers and raincoats. tbh 66° North, Bankastræti 5, 101 Reykjavík, +354 535 6681, 66north.com * for map go to page 66

BRIGHT IDEAS Reykjavík Trading Company is a collaboration between three designers, each producing handcrafted pieces which are highquality and eye-catching. The materials used range from Icelandic wool and leather to oak. One of our favourite designs is a lamp featuring a classic porcelain socket and an oak wood base. Inspired by the fxture Thomas Edison used to test the frst light bulb, the lamp is stocked exclusively in the Aurum design shop. tbh Aurum, Bankastræti 4, 101 Reykjavík, +354 551 2770, aurum.is * for map go to page 66 Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 72

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HOME REMEDY There is nothing ordinary about Fakó. This lifestyle store stocks a comprehensive range of items from the Danish design company House Doctor, delicatessen items from the French chef Nicholas Vahé and bath and beauty products from the Polish brand Organique. Accessories and artisan chocolates are also available here. tbh Fakó, Laugavegur 37, 101 Reykjavík, +354 568 0707 * for map go to page 66

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

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S H O P | 37

Inspired by their volcanic landscape, the jewellery designers of Iceland are producing powerfully original pieces, as Beth Druce discovers

PHOTO: KaTrín ElvarsdóTTir

ICE-COOL CREATIONS

While jewellery trends are frequently geared around sparkle and lustre, the designers of Iceland are creating pieces of a very diferent nature. In line with a nation renowned for doing things its own way, the country’s artisans favour an approach that is characterised by a quirky, abstract style. Forging precious metals into weird and wonderful shapes, Orr designers Ástþór Helgason and Kjartan Örn Kjartansson create Lef: aurum drífa collection headpiece and necklace

one-of, handmade pieces at their workshop in Reykjavík. There are rings spouting gangly spindles of oxidised silver that mimic the black lava of Iceland’s volcanic landscape, and delicate gold bracelets that feature tonal rainbows of pearls. In contrast, their Nammi (which means ‘candy’) ring in 18-carat gold houses interchangeable coloured stones that look like fruit pastilles, while their Laus pendant features a brilliant,

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lime-green Russian zircon that is suspended in a solid silver ring. The range of these pieces refects how the design duo aims to create unique, constantly evolving collections of jewellery that they describe as ‘imaginative pieces’. For designer Guðbjörg Kristín Ingvarsdóttir, it was the country’s natural beauty that inspired her jewellery line Aurum back in 1999. Here geometric forms and IcelanAbove: Orr Nammi rings

dic craft traditions are referenced in delicate metalwork that fuses silver with volcanic lava. The Fold collection features earrings, necklaces and rings in forms that copy the shape of the earth, and there are spherical pieces of lava cocooned in carved silver to recall the texture of the earth’s surface. From the start, Ingvarsdóttir’s work was singled out as diferent to the status quo, as it follows a three

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-dimensional, feminine style. ‘I felt I could show Icelanders something new. The jewellery I was making was nothing like what was available then,’ she has since explained. ‘Taking things out of context’ underlies the inspiration behind Hringa (‘making rings’), a line founded by Inga R Bachmann. After studying jewellery design in Barcelona, Bachmann started her label in 2008. Small fgurines stand poised on silver hoop earrings, a silver pendant depicts a clothes peg, and a ring features the silhouette of a cat seated in a window framed with curtains. ‘You will fnd pieces that have humour in them. Items are taken out of context, like the clothes peg. It’s an everyday object not of much worth yet it is given higher recognition,’ says Bachmann. This is jewellery for those who see and think beyond a piece’s immediate aesthetic appeal. There’s a dynamic feel to the work of artist Jon Snorri Sigurðsson and his daughter Berglind Snorra,

who is a designer. Their creative partnership started at Jens, a prominent, well-established Icelandic jewellery brand that was founded about 40 years ago. Recently father and daughter have also pooled their talents to set up a new line, Uppsteyt. Meaning ‘riot’ or ‘rebellion’ in Icelandic, the label refers to a ‘rebellion against classic ideas of jewellery design and tradition’ and this is refected in the avant-garde nature of the designs. The entire collection is made from rhodiumplated sterling silver, which creates an efect similar to white gold. Rings, necklaces and earrings display the designers’ distinctive tech-

Above (from lef): Hringa People collection earrings; Sif Jakobs Mantua ring

PHOTO: JOrA@JOrA.iS

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Icelandic designers, wherever located, are the ones to watch

nique: cubic zirconia in intensely saturated colours are set in fuid, molten-like silver. Texture is a contrasting mix of rough and smooth, and each item is unique and eyecatching, whether a pair of organicshaped stud earrings or an abstract silver brooch. The powerful appeal of Icelandic jewellery design is reinforced by the success of the country’s designers overseas. Sif Jakobs, for example, creates and exports exuberant and ornate statement pieces from Copenhagen. Inspired by family heirlooms, UK-based Hendrikka Waage makes elaborate bracelets featuring intricate lat-

tice detailing that is set with semiprecious stones. Jakobs and Waage have proved that the market for the country’s designers has potential beyond its own shores, while back in Iceland, Bachmann feels that ‘what makes it special here is that Iceland has many small operations going on, instead of a few big companies’. Which leads us to conclude that right now Icelandic designers, wherever they are located, are the ones to watch orr.is, aurum.is, hringa.com, jens.is, uppsteyt.is, sifjakobs.com, hendrikkawaage.co.uk

Above (from lef): Aurum Fold necklace; Sif Jakobs Asolo pendant

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NATIONAL HERITAGE Traditional crafts are thriving in Iceland, Stephen Doig reports Iceland’s hip design scene and cutting-edge art venues have helped it to become one of northern Europe’s coolest destinations.

And in the face of such trend-led developments, it’s encouraging to see that traditional crafts aren’t being sidelined.

Above: Guðný Hafsteinsdótir painted ceramic Jelly Mold lamps

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The heritage craft institution Crafts and Design/Handverk Og Hönnun supports the country’s artisans and, rather fttingly, it is

located within Reykjavík’s oldest house at Aðalstræti 10, a charming timber building dating back to 1762; it’s on the same street

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Each piece stocked at Kraum is made by hand, with great care

where Iceland’s frst settler, Ingólfur Arnarson, lived. The craft store Kraum can also be found here, whose mission is to preserve Icelandic skills. Fish skin is a common material in Iceland, which is no surprise given the country’s fshing industry: Edda H Atladóttir uses it to make beautiful iridescent belts, purses and satchels under her Atson label. Her miniature purses in fsh scales evoke Iceland’s past and because of the nature of the skins, each piece is diferent. Helena Sólbrá also manipulates the skins of salmon, cod, red fsh and catfsh, which she dyes or renders to create hand-woven and solidly stitched bags and cufs with an attractive ripple efect. Artist and product designer Hekla Björk Guðmundsdóttir founded her Heklaĺslandi label in 1996. She grew up in the countryside and started her career as a painter. Her connection to the

Above (from top): Helena Sólbrá fsh skin purses; fsh skin bag by Arndis Johannesdotir, available at Kirsuberjatréð

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land is evident: napkins come in heavyweight wool rather than cotton or disposal paper, and wooden sculptures are shaped like golden plovers, a wading bird. The grey corrugated iron exterior of Kirsuberjatréð (the Icelandic word for ‘cherry tree’) in Reykjavík might not look like an art store, but inside a world of craft wonder unfolds. The building, which is an old general store, was taken over by a group of designers in 1993 to act as a hub for people involved in art, craft and design, and today around a dozen creatives are based here. They make saddle bags, richly decorated scarves, and intricately painted ceramics. Guðný Hafsteinsdóttir also specialises in ceramics; she looks Above (from top): artist and product designer Hekla Björk Guðmundsdótir; HeklaÍslandi wooden golden plover sculptures

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Everyday objects are elevated to beautiful keepsakes

to ‘everyday life for inspiration’ and creates very modern-looking and fun pieces from clay and recycled glass. Her glazed cups are decorated with witty etches and her Jelly Mold lamps are as pretty as they are humorous, showing that in Iceland, everyday objects are elevated to beautiful keepsakes handverkoghonnun.is, kraum.is, atson.is, helenasolbra.is, heklaislandi.is Above (from top): Guðný Hafsteinsdótir painted ceramic children’s bowl and cutlery; textile artist Sara Maria Juliudotir in her workshop, whose pieces are available at Kirsuberjatréð

READY FOR ACTION Iceland is a world leader when it comes to outdoor clothing. By Josh Sims Above: Zo-on outdoorwear spring/summer 2014

PHOTO: Gr r BjarnasOn

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‘People here are conscious of the fact that the weather can be extreme and sudden,’ says Fannar Pall Adalsteinsson, project marketing manager for the Icelandic specialist outdoor clothing company 66° North. ‘It can go from sun to storm to snow in the same day. In other countries you go right out

of the city to be somewhere “outdoors”. Here, just taking the bus to school is “outdoors”. Everywhere you go is “outdoors”.’ 66° North (the latitude where the Arctic Circle begins) was established in 1926 and, according to Adalsteinsson, has become a name Icelanders ‘fondly associate with

PHOTO: INgrId KarIs

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their grandparents or wearing themselves at kindergarten’. But while 66° North is arguably the biggest and best-known Icelandic clothing company, there are many others: for a national population of under 350,000, Iceland has more than might be expected. Among them are Cintamani and Zo-on, as well as Icewear, the choice of actor Chris Hemsworth while flming Thor: The Dark World, in Iceland. Icewear started out in 1972 manufacturing woollen garments for companies and now owns Iceland’s most famous knitwear producers Vik Wool. The number of outdoor clothing companies shows how important suitable clothing is here, for children and adults. And if Icelanders aren’t enjoying the rugged landscape, they are probably out playing golf. ‘Golf is just huge here. A ffth of the population plays golf and there are more than 60 courses,’ says Halldor Orn Jonsson, the CEO of Zo-on, which sells a range

of popular golfwear and outdoor clothing. Although its products are currently only available in Iceland through its three stores, it is planning its frst export drive. Of course, the demand for weather-appropriate clothing has come primarily from people with work to do, rather than with rounds to play. 66° North began life making protective clothing for fshermen and farmers and today its products are also worn by the Icelandic Association for Search

Above (clockwise from top lef): Icewear 2014 outdoor wear; Cintamani 2014 womenswear; 66º North Eldborg jacket

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and Rescue and members of the Icelandic Mountain Guides, with whom 66° North runs a training programme that culminates in the ascent of Iceland’s highest peak. Many of its products are highly technical and utilise the latest synthetic fabrics, such as Polartec NeoShell. Its jackets are regular nominees for, or winners of, ISPO awards, the outdoor clothing industry’s Oscars. And, unusual for this sector, its clothes are made by its own factories in Latvia. But what particularly distinguishes 66° North from major performance clothing brands from, for example, Norway or Canada, is that its clothing doesn’t necessarily look like outdoor protection. ‘Icelanders don’t just put on a ski jacket to ski a couple of times a year, they need clothes that function as a ski jacket might function every day. It’s outdoor meets tailoring: a blazer, for instance, that looks like a blazer but which will also protect you in a storm. It’s outdoor clothing without that typical

outdoor look,’ says Adalsteinsson, who notes that 66° North is particularly successful in Sweden. Bjarni Jonsson, owner of Reykjavík’s Nordic Store and nordicstore.net, sells a lot of performance clothing. He says that Icelanders prefer Icelandic products, even though they are more expensive than competing imported products. ‘In part this is because it’s just really good,’ he says. He also sells a lot of traditional Icelandic knitwear, in patterns which are similar to the better-known Norwegian knitwear designs, made of duallayered Icelandic wool (for keen knitters, he also sells yarn). ‘Interestingly, a lot of people who work outdoors choose to wear traditional outdoor woollen clothing despite having modern performance options,’ says Jonsson. ‘After all, wool has all the performance abilities people look for in technical fabrics, it even gets more water-resistant over time, and certainly works better than feece. It works for the wearer as it has to work for the sheep here.’ For those tackling the truly great outdoors, Jonsson recommends wearing, as most Icelanders do, thick woollen socks, a wool or merino base layer (from Cintamani for example), a woollen sweater and a light technical outer layer. This combination, in this wonderfully otherworldly place, will prepare you for all that Iceland can throw at you 66north.com, cintamani.is, zo-on.is, nordicstore.net, icewear.is

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Table Talk From traditional specialities to experimental international fare, Iceland’s restaurants ofer a wealth of variety as well as uniquely decorated interiors. Verity Hogan explores a selection of the country’s best

Iceland’s gastronomy is renowned for its high-quality ingredients. The country’s cold seas and wide stretches of grassland provide an ideal environment for some of the world’s fnest seafood, meat and dairy products. some of its signature ingredients, including Icelandic lamb, lobster, white fsh and butter, are sought after internationally and are regularly exported while wild fruits, mushrooms and seaweed are also popular. globalblue.com

The quality of Icelandic produce is enhanced by organic agriculture, its meadows which are rich in wild herbs and its unpolluted seawaters. Iceland’s fnest restaurants make great use of the country’s best ingredients while combining traditional cooking methods with international infuences and trends such as the New Nordic Cuisine movement to create a distinctive and delicious gastronomy.

S H O P | 55

The CooCoo’s NesT

F Isk F é l AGI ð

set in an old fshing hut with a delightfully cosy interior, The Coocoo’s Nest is one of Reykjavík’s most inviting eateries. The menu is infuenced by American and Italian cuisine and dishes have an authentic, homemade appeal. sourdough pizzas with a range of toppings, hearty pasta dishes and warming soups make up the majority of the menu. The interior décor refects the rustic nature of the cuisine. Wood panelling appears throughout with diferent tones used to create a patchwork efect, while the sofa seating is ideal when relaxing after a long day’s sightseeing. The Coocoo’s Nest, Grandagarður 23, 101 Reykjavík, +354 552 5454, facebook.com/cafecoocoos

Despite being housed in a building that dates back to 1884, Fiskfélagið takes a surprisingly modern approach to its menu. local meats and fsh are combined with herbs and spices from around the world to create an innovative international selection. options range from Russian-inspired caramelised beetroot and goats’ cheese crumble to Vietnamese pork belly and a Japanese starter of mixed sushi. For a more traditional meal try the Around Iceland menu; celebrating local ingredients it includes salmon from stykkishólmur, lamb from lake Mývatn and ling from Vestmannaeyjar. Fiskfélagið, Vesturgötu 2A, 101 Reykjavík, +354 552 5300, fiskfelagid.is

56 | E X P E R I E N C E

Mar Restaurant is located in Reykjavík’s old harbour and its décor takes inspiration from its characterful surroundings, with black-treated wood panelling, custom-made tableware featuring the skarfur sea bird and other marine animal motifs. the restaurant menu has broader horizons, taking infuences from south america and southern Europe resulting in dishes such as prosciutto-wrapped monkfsh with fennel salad, and mushroom and butternut squash lasagne served with pear and walnut salad. Be sure to try Mar’s range of original cocktails.

PERlaN as well as its exquisite cuisine, revolving restaurant Perlan is renowned for providing diners with panoramic views of Reykjavík, making one gentle rotation in the course of two hours. Its spectacular surroundings are refected in the menu, which highlights the high-quality local produce. typical options include dishes centred globalblue.com

PHOTO: Gunnar SverriSSOn

M a R R E s tau R a N t

Mar Restaurant, Geirsgata 9, 101 Reykjavík, +354 519 5050, marrestaurant.is

on the catch of the day, and crispy chicken breast served with spinach risotto, pickled carrots and lemon sauce. Be sure to stay for dessert. Kiwi fruit cheesecake with mango sorbet, and white and dark chocolate mousse with hazelnut snow and raspberry sorbet are two of the most desirable dishes. Perlan, Öskjuhlíð, 125 Reykjavík, +354 562 0200, perlan.is

PHOTO: axel SiGurĂ°arSOn 2013

E X P E R I E N C E | 57

Kol a BR au t I N Combining the simple, unpretentious techniques of Italian cuisine with the fnest Icelandic produce, Kolabrautin ensures all attention is fxed on the locally sourced ingredients. the restaurant guarantees an unforgettable dining experience thanks to the views aforded by its location on the fourth foor of the globalblue.com

Harpa concert hall. the delicately favoured dishes are equally noteworthy. Expect options to range from pan-seared cod with tomato conserve, grilled fennel, capers and lemon emulsion, to langoustine and potato cannelloni with scallop sauce and lobster glaze. Kolabrautin, Harpa, austurbakki 2, 101 ReykjavĂk, +354 519 9700, kolabrautin.is

58 | E X P E R I E N C E

My Weekend With its stunning natural landscape, unique design aesthetic and one of the world’s most impressive gastronomies, Iceland is the perfect place for a short break. SHOP’s picture editor Dorcas Brown shares her highlights from a weekend in Reykjavík

Laugarvatn Fontana allows visitors to enjoy Iceland’s natural beauty while they indulge in its warm geothermal pools and steam rooms. Stay late to watch the sun set over the nearby lake.

PHOTO: DORCAS BROWN

Laugarvatn Fontana

Something of a local institution, Spúútnik vintage boutique is known for its well-edited selection. The extremely stylish staf members will guide visitors through the vast collection.

PHOTO: DORCAS BROWN

Spúútnik

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 72

ILLUSTRATION: RAYMOND BROWN

Dominating Reykjavík harbour, Harpa concert hall is one of the city’s most recognisable buildings. The hall regularly plays host to artists such as Jamie Cullum and Tony Bennett.

PHOTO: DORCAS BROWN

Harpa

S H O P | 59

Hildur Hafstein

DIRECTORY

Taking inspiration from sources as diverse as Buddhism, forals and childhood motifs, designer Hilda Hafstein is known for her distinctive jewellery. Every item is handcrafted, using a combination of stones, wooden beads, sterling silver and recycled ornaments.

Laugarvatn Fontana, Laugarbraut, 840 Laugarvatn, +354 486 1400, fontana.is Hildur Hafstein, Laugavegur 20B, 101 Reykjavík, +354 771 1177, hildurhafstein.is * for map go to page 66 Harpa, Austurbakki 2, 101 Reykjavík, +354 528 5050, harpa.is * for map go to page 68 The Laundromat Café, Austurstræti 9, 101 Reykjavík, +354 587 7555, thelaundromatcafe.com * for map go to page 68

The Laundromat Café An unusual combination of a laundrette and café, the Laundromat Café boasts a varied menu, quirky interior and pleasantly relaxed atmosphere. Options range from healthy fresh juices to moreish homemade cakes.

PHOTO: DORCAS BROWN

Spúútnik, Laugavegur 28B, 101 Reykjavík, +354 533 2023 * for map go to page 66

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G U I D E | 61

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar country is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Iceland with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

62 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOs: @DORCAsBROWN

‘With its rugged natural landscape and inherent charm, Iceland is an unforgettable destination’ – Dorcas Brown, SHOP’s picture editor

globalblue.com

S H O P | 63

Follow our team on Instagram @globalblue and tag us in your city photos â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you might see them in print!

64 | G U I D E

Reykjavík

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Tourist Information

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The striking and conceptual jewellery at orr refects the distinctive creative union formed by the store’s owners Ástþór Helgason and Kjartan Örn Kjartansson. every piece showcased at their boutique is unique, having been handmade

● ÍSEY RYK ● ● SPARK DESIGN SPACE ● AFTUR ● ULLARKIS TAN - JANUS ● HRÍM ● SUOMI PRKL EVA ● ● STURLA ● TE & KAFFI LEMO N ● ● BRYNJA AUGAð ● ● DÚKKU HÚSIð ● ILSE JACOBSEN HORNBÆK P.59 SPÚÚTNIK ● ● HRINGA ÉG OG Þ Ú ● ● SMEKKLEY SA HRÍM ELDHÚS ● ● EINVERA ● GLORIA DOGMA ● ● FAKÓ P.34 ● S VERSLUN GUÐSTEIN ONAR EYJÓLFSS KASSETTA ●

● GULLKÚ NST HELGU ● TIGER ● BLUE LAGOO N SHOP ● RAVEN S ● MICHEL SEN ● MACLA ND ● TOLLI ART GALLER Y ● KAFFIB RENNS LAN

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● 66 ○ NOR TH ● CINTAMA NI

● ORR

● 66○ NORTH KIDS ● SPAKSM ANNSS PJARIR ● GK ● ORR ● THE VIKING ● LISTFL ÉTTAN ● JÓN SIGMUN DS ● KARLM ENN ● MAIA ● DR. DENIM ● FJALLA KOFINN

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66 | G U I D E

from the fnest materials at the adjacent workshop. The range is extensive, featuring earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets in an array of styles as well as a selection of standout engagement and wedding rings. Orr, Bankastræti 11, 101 Reykjavík, +354 511 6262, orr.is

Bankastræti & Laugavegur

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Tourist Information

SHOP Recommendation

Featured In This Issue

globalblue.com

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LÍFSTYKK JABÚÐIN ● PÚKINN 101 ● DÚN OG FIÐUR ● COUTURE ● KJÓLAR OG KONFEKT ● KÓS ● WOOLCAN O ●

KRON KRON MARKAÐS TORG ● OG ÞÓ ● REYKJAVÍ K CRAFT ● VINNUFATABÚÐIN ● SIGURBOG INN ●

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● PÚKÓ OG SMART ● CALVI P.26 ● JÖR ● BORÐ FYRIR TVO ● JOSS

● GALLERIA ● EYMUNDS SON

This boutique brings products inspired by the famous Blue lagoon to Reykjavík. The selection includes skincare products and gift sets incorporating the Blue lagoon’s healing silica mud and algae, including deep

● KIOSK ● GLERAUGN ASALAN 65 ● ART 67 ● BRIM ● HJÁLMAR TORFASON

Blue lagoon SHoP

ARTIC PHOTO ●

● HERRAHÚ SIð ADAM ● KOKKA ● 38 ÞREP ● KROLL ● MARTA JÓNSSON ● MANÍA ● LEYNIBÚð IN ● SMART BOUTIQUE ● KORMÁKU R OG SKJÖLDUR ● RUMPUTU SKI ● JÓN OG ÓSKAR ● BERNHARD LAXDAL

● NOSTALGÍ A ● AFTUR ● VÍNBERIð ● NUR

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S H O P | 67

cleansing and exfoliating mud masks and complexion brightening creams. The store also takes its cues from the lagoon, with lava walls and a clean, bright colour scheme of white and blue. Blue Lagoon Shop, laugavegur 15, 101 Reykjavík, +354 420 8849, bluelagoon.com

Laugavegur

68 | G U I D E

IslandIa

PHOTO: Pall GudjOnssOn

a must-visit store when searching for a souvenir or for a gift, Islandia’s vast product range is entirely inspired by Iceland. Items available include locally created artworks and clothing produced by local designers. Islandia, Bankastræti 2, 101 Reykjavík, +354 540 2176, facebook.com/ islandiatouristshop for map go to page 66

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Place Of Interest

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70 | G U I D E

Ungfrúin góða

sale, from the rugs on the foor to the chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. With new stock arriving almost weekly, there is always something to catch your eye in-store. Ungfrúin Góða, Hallveigarstígur 10a, 101 reykjavík, +354 551 2112, ungfruingoda.is

recently opened and delightfully quirky Ungfrúin góða is located in the centre of reykjavík. This bijou boutique stocks beautiful clothes, shoes and accessories alongside homeware and gift items. Everything is for

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Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our refund ofces. No customs stamp is required if the purchase price is less than 34,501 ISK and if the refund amount is less than 5,000 ISK per Tax Free Form. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of 4,000 ISK and save up to 15% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund ofces an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash globalblue.com

Refund Ofces ReykjavÍk-KefavÍk-Airport Gate 9

Gate 10

Gate 7

Gate 8

Gate 12 Gate 15

i Gate 11 Gate 2, 4, 6

Gate 14

Gate 1, 3, 5

Gate 29

Gate 30

Gate 27 Gate 28

i Gate 32 Gate 35

Gate 26

Gate 31

Gate 25

Gate 34

Key Partner Refund Ofce

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Landside

Customs Stamp

Security Control

Airside

Stairs

Refund ofce details: Kefavík International Airport: Landsbankinn, Transit hall,upper foor Reykjavík Airport: only in the form of credit in the Duty Free Shop ITA: Aðalstræti 2, 101 Reykjavík; Kringlan Shopping Centre: service desk, ground foor, Kringlan 4-12, 103

Information

Reykjavík Smáralind Shopping Centre: service desk upper foor, Hagasmári 1, 201 Kópavogur Akureyrarstofa-Hof: Strandgata 12, 600 Akureyri

74 | P RO D U C T S

FUN PACKED Inspired by Icelandic culture, Anna Thorunn is a product designer who creates fun yet practical homeware, from candleholders to multi-functional tables. This Rúdolf magazine rack is Thorunn’s take on the traditional troughs which were used for generations in the country. Rúdolf is cleverly Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 72

designed with wheels to allow it to be moved around the house with ease. Available in black, white or brown wood, the rack comes fat packed, making it all the easier to transport home. tbh Anna Thorunn Rúdolf magazine rack, 77,000 ISK, Epal, Harpa Concert House, Austurbakki 2, 101 Reykjavík, +354 515 7733, annathorunn.is for map go to page 68

PHOTO: KriSTinn MagnúSSOn

Souvenir