The spirit of travel. D ow n l o a d t h e L o u i s Vu i t t o n p a s s a p p t o reve a l exc l u s i ve c o n t e n t .
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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus
Чехия
ILLUSTRATION: PAUL X JOHNSON
Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
Welcome to London This SHOP guide will help you discover all that London has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we discover London’s millinery talents, as hatmaking in the city reaches new heights (turn to page 52). We also reveal the magic of Mayfair, as this prestigious district welcomes some high-profle new arrivals (see our feature on page 58), one of whom, Roksanda Ilincic, we interview on page 64. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 41. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.
Emma Cheevers
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Руководство Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius
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ILLUSTRATION: KAREN KLASSEN
Contributors
Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features editor. A regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph newspaper, he is a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times.
globalblue.com
Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book, 50 Years of British Style Culture, was published in 2012.
Karen Klassen Karen Klassen’s beautiful fashion and portrait illustration style was the perfect choice for the cover of this season’s luxury edition of SHOP London. The illustration shows a striking woman wearing an extravagant hat in Union Jack colours, inspired by our feature on page 52 about London’s contemporary, individual milliners. Karen has previously created artwork for a range of clients including The Folio Society, Leap Communications and Rolling Stone magazine. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Frances Wasem Frances Wasem is assistant fashion features editor and Flash editor at Harper’s Bazaar magazine, and has also written for Stella magazine and the Times. Her many interviews include Christian Louboutin and Lauren Bacall.
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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Karen Klassen Contributors Josh Sims, Frances Wasem Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau
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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
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Contents p.64
P ro d u c t s 22 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from London this season 24 My Favourites Massimo Nicosia, head of design at Pringle of scotland, reveals his top tips for spring/ summer 2014 26 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 36 Street Style our pick of London’s best dressed during London Fashion Week N eWs 38 Shop Window one store not to be missed in London 40 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 48 In Store … … with solange Azagury-Partridge in her new Mayfair boutique
Above: designer Roksanda Ilincic, profled in this issue
F e At u r e s 52 Cover Story: Hats Of Hatmaking and wearing are enjoying a revival, especially in London. Josh sims dofs his cap to the city’s new millinery talents 58 The Magic Of Mayfair London’s prestigious Mayfair district welcomes some notable new arrivals this spring. stephen doig shares an insider address book 64 The Rise Of Roksanda As designer roksanda Ilincic prepares to open her new fagship store, she tells Frances Wasem about her inspirations and her glittering London career e x Pe r I e Nce 70 New And Noteworthy London’s restaurant scene is constantly evolving, with new openings and fresh dining concepts awaiting discovery on every visit. Verity Hogan peruses the menus at some of the very best 76 Stay In Style sHoP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
THE ESSENCE OF BRITAIN Made in Switzerland by BREITLING
British chic, Swiss excellence: Breitling for Bentley combines the best of both worlds. Style and performance. Luxury and accomplishment. Class and audacity. Power and refinement. Perfectly epitomising this exceptional world, the Bentley B06 chronograph houses a Manufacture Breitling calibre, chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute), the highest benchmark in terms of precision and reliability. It is distinguished by its exclusive “30-second chronograph” system enabling extremely precise readings of the measured times. A proud alliance between the grand art of British carmaking and the fine Swiss watchmaking tradition.
BENTLEY B06
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Contents gu i DE 80 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of london 96 My City imelda Burke of Content Beauty & Wellbeing shares her london recommendations
T R a n s l aT i O n s 103 Русский Перевод 110 美文翻译 117 sOu v E n i R 118 The essential item to bring home
EssEnTi a ls 100 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
DesTinaTion & buYing guiDes Don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.
E ngl i sh | Р ус с к и й | 中 文
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com Fashion WeeKs & sTReeT sTYLe
Win monThLY compeTiTions We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotel stays.
globalblue.com
DaiLY shopping neWs We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.
PHOTO: (RIGHT) © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
Follow us online for the latest from Europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show round-ups and insider shopping guides.
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Check Out
PORTABLE PERFUMERY The Traveller Set from Clive Christian, which contains three miniature bottles of exquisite perfume, should be on every fragrance lover’s wish-list. The set, presented in a sleek black case, comprises some of the perfumer’s best-loved scents, each of which is available either for men or for women. Each of the bottles within has a crown-shaped stopper; 1872 was created to celebrate the year that Queen Victoria granted Crown Perfumery, the predecessor to Clive Christian’s eponymous Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
brand, the use of her royal crown. X is a scent that evokes mystery and is flled with enticing and heady notes. No 1, perhaps the perfumery’s most famous ofering, is the world’s most expensive perfume and a luxurious, invigorating olfactory experience. These little bottles represent the very best of Clive Christian and gathering them together in one easily portable case makes a box of scented heaven. hl Clive Christian Traveller Set fragrances, £185, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, clive.com * for map go to page 91
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My Favourites: Massimo Nicosia Italian-born Massimo Nicosia trained as an architect at the Università degli Studi di Firenze, qualifying in industrial and product design in 2003. In 2004 he began work as a designer under Alessandro dell’Acqua, leaving four years later to join Pringle of Scotland as head menswear designer. In December 2010, Massimo left the company to work alongside Nicole Farhi. After after two years as head menswear designer, he was drawn back to Pringle, where he was appointed head of design in January 2013. He shares his London recommendations with Dominique Fenn 1. ‘A new favourite with excellent all-day dining from Jason Atherton’
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Berners Tavern, The London Edition Hotel, 10 Berners Street, London W1T 3NP, +44 (0)20 7908 7979, bernerstavern.com
2. ‘Our Pringle of Scotland fagship store opened last year on Mount Street’
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PHOTO: GREGORYNOLAN.COM
Pringle of Scotland, 94 Mount Street, London W1K 2SZ, +44 (0)20 3011 0031, pringlescotland.com
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S H O P | 25
3. ‘I can often be found sitting outside Scott’s restaurant sipping an espresso. I love seeing our customers coming and going – it is the perfect place for people-watching’ Scott’s, 20 Mount Street, London W1K 2HE, +44 (0)20 7495 7309, scotts-restaurant.com
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4. ‘Shrimpy’s, housed in an old flling station near the canal, has a great atmosphere, especially on the terrace’ Shrimpy’s, The King’s Cross Filling Station, Goods Way, London N1C 4UR, +44 (0)20 8880 6111, shrimpys.co.uk
5. ‘Browse the shops on Chiltern Street, which is reminiscent of Tokyo, with a great selection of niche brands. The London Café in the Monocle shop is a lovely spot’ London Café, The Monocle Shop, 18 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7QA, +44 (0)20 7725 4388, monocle.com
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FLORAL FANTASY
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Art-inspired prints and futuristic fowers take forals, a perennial favourite, to the next level
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1. Louis Vuitton handbag, £1,190, Louis Vuitton, 17-20 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RB, +44 (0)20 3214 9200, louisvuitton.com 2. Chanel bracelet, £2,780, Chanel, 158-159 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UB, +44 (0)20 7493 5040, chanel.com
3. Vivienne Westwood Red Label dress, £1,353, Vivienne Westwood, 44 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YL, +44 (0)20 7439 1109, viviennewestwood.com 4. Boucheron ring, £13,900, Boucheron, 164 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UH, +44 (0)20 7514 9170, boucheron.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
5. Christian Louboutin shoes, £945, Christian Louboutin, 17 Mount Street, London W1K 2RJ, +44 (0)20 7491 0033, christianlouboutin.com
PHOTOS: (2) © CHANEL/OLiviEr SAiLLANT; (4) ALAiN LANTz
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London
London
Dublin
Corneliani Boutique 131-132 New Bond Street
Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street
Brown Thomas 88-95 Grafton Street
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TAILORING AND TECH The modern gentleman not only needs a well-tailored outft, but the tech to go with it 1
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1. Rolex GMT-Master II watch, £5,950, Harrods, 87-135 Old Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, rolex.com
2. Vertu Constellation phone, £4,200, Vertu, 38 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QW, +44 (0)20 3205 1123, vertu.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
3. Richard James suit with trousers, £825, Richard James, 29 Savile Row, London W1S 2EY, +44 (0)20 7434 0605, richardjames.co.uk
PHOTOS: (1) © ROlex/DeniS HayOun; (2) © JaSOn BuTcHeR PHOTOgRaPHy
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PHOTOS: (4) PHil SillS; (7) infO@JameSknaPP.neT
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4. Bowers & Wilkins P5 Maserati Edition headphones, £329.99, John Lewis, 300 Oxford Street, London W1A 1EX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711, bowers-wilkins.co.uk
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5. Ermenegildo Zegna bag, £850, Ermenegildo Zegna, 203-204 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7201 7000, zegna.com 6. Ludwig Reiter shoes, £459, Ludwig Reiter, 6 Brook Street, London W1S 1BB, +44 (0)20 3302 3421, ludwig-reiter.com
7. Hardy Amies trench coat, £795, Hardy Amies, 14 Savile Row, London W1S 3JN, +44 (0)20 7734 2436, hardyamies.com
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SNEAKERS LUXE
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Step out in sporting style: designer sneakers are one of the biggest trends for men’s footwear this season
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1. Lanvin sneakers, £525, Lanvin, 32 Savile Row, London W1S 3PT, +44 (0)20 7434 3384, lanvin.com
3. Raf Simons for Adidas sneakers, £270, No 6 London, 6 Newburgh Street, London WC1 7RO, +44 (0)20 7734 9976, adidas.co.uk
2. Valentino sneakers, £410, Valentino, 174 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QG, +44 (0)20 7235 5855, valentino.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
4. Balenciaga sneakers, £265, Balenciaga, 12 Mount Street, London W1K 2RD, +44 (0)20 7317 4400, balenciaga.com
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SHOWSTOPPERS Nothing turns heads like super-luxurious accessories
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1. Anna Coroneo scarf, £165, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, annacoroneo.com 2. Bulgari handbag, £1,980, Bulgari, 168 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE, +44 (0)20 7872 9969, bulgari.com
3. Jessica McCormack diamond earrings, £400,000, Jessica McCormack, 7 Carlos Place, London W1K 3AR, +44 (0)20 7491 9999, jessicamccormack.com 4. Damiani ring, price on request, Damiani, 11 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PN, +44 (0)20 7495 6388, damiani.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
5. Tom Ford boots, £5,750, Tom Ford, 201-202 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 3141 7800, tomford.com
PHOTOS: (1) ARTXPHOTOGRAPHY.COM; (3) JASPeR ‘YOGi’ GOuGH
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THE FUSION COLLECTION BOND STREET. HARRODS, KNIGHTSBRIDGE. SELFRIDGES & CO, LONDON AND TRAFFORD CENTRE WWW.GEORGJENSEN.COM. ADDITIONAL STOCKISTS: 0207 499 6541
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NEAT PLEATS From feminine skirts to torn leather, pleats are reborn this season in fresh neutral colours
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1. Mary Katrantzou x Gianvito Rossi shoes, £575, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, marykatrantzou.com 2. Max Mara skirt, £225, Max Mara, 19-21 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PU, +44 (0)20 7499 7902, maxmara.com
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3. Linnie McLarty ring, £290, Linnie McLarty, 158 Victoria Park Road, London E9 7JN, +44 (0)7811 022560, linniemclarty.com 4. Miu Miu handbag, £1,080, Miu Miu, 150 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TU, +44 (0)20 7409 0900, miumiu.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
5. Acne top, £1,500, Acne, 93 Pelham Street, London SW7 2NJ, +44 (0)20 7589 5995, acnestudios.com
DAVID BECKHAM The Legend Continues BELSTAFF.COM
LONDON NEW YORK MILAN MUNICH MANCHESTER GLASGOW FLORENCE
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The undisputed key print for attendees at London Fashion Week was check, from woven laundrybag squares by CĂŠline to bold tartan patchwork on jeans from Junya Watanabe. Fortunately for fans of this trend, it continued on the catwalks too, with British brands including Paul Smith and House of Holland ofering great options for spring/summer
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PHOTOS: EmanuElE D’angElO/lC-JOuRnal.COm
Street Style
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Shop Window
CARTIER WOWS AT SELFRIDGES Luxury jeweller and watchmaker Cartier has moved its concession in the Selfridges department store to The Wonder Room, to a space four times larger than the one it previously occupied. With much more space comes much more Cartier and the new location boasts a dazzling selection. A wide range from the Fine Watch Making collection makes for beautiful browsing, while the romantically minded may fnd themselves drawn to the Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
Bridal Salon, an area dedicated to diamonds and the search for the perfect engagement ring. The store also holds the iconic Cartier Crash collection of watches, frst created in London in 1967, as well as the classic lines which so perfectly encapsulate the luxury of Cartier, including Love and Juste un Clou for jewellery and the Tank watch. Look out for the brand’s new Trinity collection of diamond rings, which is guaranteed to take your breath away. hl Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, +44 (0)20 7318 3977, cartier.com * for map go to page 84
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KEEP IT PERSONAL Father-and-son tailoring team CaselyHayford recently wowed the crowds at London Collections: Men with their debut show in their home city and the pair have been creating bespoke suits for gentlemen across the capital for years now. For the most discerning clients, the pair ofer a unique made-to-measure personal tailoring service, beginning with an in-depth consultation with Charlie CaselyHayford in The Chalk Room at Hostem. Clients are expertly measured and then guided through their choice of fabrics, lining and cut – all to match their personal specifcation. With the most luxurious materials to choose from, including Loro Piana wool hopsack and Holland & Sherry worsted wool, the fnished suit is guaranteed to be the perfect result for any man searching for his own piece of classic British sartorialism. rp Hostem, 41-43 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7739 9733, casely-hayford.com * for map go to page 93
In brief: — Maison Martin Margiela’s sister line MM6 is soon to open on Conduit Street, bringing the brand’s quirky cool to the UK capital
— Watches of Switzerland will open the UK’s largest showroom devoted to luxury watches on Regent Street this summer. Choose from Rolex, Cartier and Piaget, among many other timepieces
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
SOUND QUALITY Home audio specialist Vivid Audio has been creating ground-breaking speakers for years and its newest endeavour, the Giya range, excels in sound quality and design aesthetic. The speaker range, engineered by audio experts in the UK and handbuilt by skilled designers in South Africa, is shaped for optimum acoustics, resulting in reduced sound imperfections while providing pristine audio clarity. rp Audio Lounge, 138 Wigmore Street, London W1U 3SG, +44 (0)20 7487 4080, vividaudio.co.uk
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SHOP THE WORLD
PHILLIP LIM COMES TO LONDON A welcome addition to the already impressive shopping opportunities in South Kensington, 3.1 Phillip Lim has opened its frst London standalone store. A huge and inviting space, the store ofers a range of 3.1 Phillip Lim goods never before seen in the city, with the entire women’s, men’s and accessories collections all available under one roof. Lim is known for his inimitable ability to make clothes that people long to wear. His aesthetic adds a little je ne sais quoi, or what he calls ‘madness’, to classic cuts and styles, and in the nine years since its foundation 3.1 Phillip Lim has played an understated but visible role in shaping the way we dress. Born in Thailand to Chinese parents, Lim grew up in California before moving to New York where he is still based. With another opening scheduled in the next year or so, this is great news for London. hl 3.1 Phillip Lim, 91 Pelham Street, London SW7 2NJ, +44 (0)20 7591 1320, 31philliplim.com globalblue.com
Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com
Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store
42 | N E W S
MARVELLOUS MULBERRY Spring/summer 2014 marks Mulberry’s last collection from Emma Hill, the brand’s creative director of six years. The British brand is known for its iconic handbags, including the Bayswater, Alexa and Del Rey, and expanded to include ready-to-wear clothing and footwear collections during Hill’s reign. Her concluding collection pays homage to Britain’s idiosyncratic style heritage: lady-like jacquard, chifons, silks and foral prints are juxtaposed with leather, stripes and chunky sandals that reference the edgier fashions of Britain in the 60s and today. Refecting the needs of the busy but style-conscious modern woman, a new bag was introduced: the Kensal is an elegant envelope design, featuring a briefcase clasp and a shoulder strap. Detaching the strap transforms the Kensal into a chic clutch for evening. This covetable collection will be a tough act to follow. gl Mulberry, 171-175 Brompton Rd, London SW3 1NF, +44 (0)20 7838 1411, mulberry.com * for map go to page 91
ON THE BEACH Designed with the global traveller in mind, the latest swimwear collection from Melissa Odabash should be your frst port of call when searching for the perfect swimsuit this summer. A former swimwear model, Odabash launched her label in 1999 and was soon noticed for her fusion of high fashion and swimwear, something very unusual at the time. The brand now ofers more than just swimwear, with beachwear, jewellery, accessories and ready-to-wear available in Odabash’s signature feminine, fashion-forward style. Find the full collection at her chic Notting Hill boutique, including this lizard-printed Naples bathing suit – proof that a one-piece can have the same impact as a bikini. hl Melissa Odabash, 48B Ledbury Rd, London W11 2AJ, +44 (0)20 7229 4299, odabash.com * for map go to page 94 Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
N E W S | 43
PERFECT FIT
In brief:
Approaching the concept of the bespoke shoe from a modern angle, the Left Shoe Company fuses contemporary technology with classic manufacturing processes to make beautiful shoes that ft like a dream. Step into the store in Princes Arcade and the team will measure your feet with a 3D scanner. The data from this is used to precisely calculate your last, instep and size. Try on a few examples in the store, choose your colours and materials, and in around six weeks your absolutely individual, perfectly ftted shoes will be sent to you, wherever you are in the world. The team will keep your details on fle so if you want a second pair (or a third) you can log in online and virtually assemble the elements of another personalised pair of shoes. hl The Left Shoe Company, 6 Princes Arcade, London SW1Y 6DS, +44 (0)20 7287 8444, leftshoecompany.com * for map go to page 90
— Luxury department store Fortnum & Mason has just opened a new location at St Pancras International station – the first time Fortnum & Mason has branched out in over 300 years
TOP 3 LUXURY STORE OPENINGS Some of the world’s biggest and most exciting luxury brands are opening new locations in London over the spring and summer months. Keep an eye out for these in particular ...
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Céline The French fashion house opens its first monobrand store in the UK this year. Located on London’s fashionable Mount Street, the store will offer London devotees their best selection yet of designer Phoebe Philo’s avant-garde designs.
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Karl Lagerfeld The past year has seen Chanel’s creative director massively expand his eponymous own-label empire and his new store on Regent Street, which opened in March, is his largest in Europe. Delve into the quirky and wonderful world of Herr Lagerfeld, where the German designer’s face adorns everything you could think of.
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Christian Dior Returning to the street where it opened its first London store in the 1960s, legendary French label Christian Dior will open on Conduit Street this year, its fourth standalone boutique in the UK’s capital. Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store
globalblue.com
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A NEW CLASSIC The classic Burberry trench coat dates back to 1895 and has become one of the brand’s most iconic pieces. The label’s new Britain watch is aiming to achieve the same status. For chief creative ofcer Christopher Bailey, the Britain embodies the brand’s rich heritage and embraces the traditional and the modern simultaneously. Its rounded octagonal shape with distinctive bolts is inspired by modern British design and by the classic trench. A minimalist dial emphasises the design of the case, while the transparent case back with sapphire crystal allows a glimpse into the advanced technical processes inside. hl Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com * for map go to page 88
MOTHER OF INVENTION London design duo Teatum Jones continues to pioneer new prints and techniques and, as with every seasonal ofering from the duo, there is a layered backstory to the collection. Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones this time look to their mothers for inspiration, fondly recalling them washing dishes with checked tea towels slung over their shoulders, representing the spirit of ‘just getting on with it’. The tea towel became the theme of the collection, with hand-drawn check designs interpreted in a multitude of ways across the clothes – on the shoulders of foral dresses, on coats made with laminated woven jacquard (the designers’ own invention) and on biker jackets. This up-andcoming label, already one of the top two sellers on Liberty’s international foor, is a brand well worth investing in. df Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, teatumjones.com * for map go to page 88 Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
porsche design
Porsche Design London | 59 Brompton Road | London SW3 1DP | +44 [ 0 ] 20 7581 4442 Porsche Design Harrods | 87–135 Brompton Road | London SW 1X7XL | +44 [ 0 ] 20 78938878 www.porsche-design.com/store-locator
basler-fashion.com
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In Store: Solange Azagury-Partridge London-based jewellery designer Solange Azagury-Partridge was formerly the creative director at Boucheron. Her recently opened boutique in Mayfair is a celebration of her bold, unique signature style – and is as beautiful as her stunning collections, discovers Dominique Fenn
PHOTO: KaTerina Jebb
‘A usual day for me involves meeting someone for cofee in the morning, then, if the weather’s good, walking through Hyde Park, crossing Park Lane and walking through Mount Street Gardens to the shop. ‘I get to 5 Carlos Place and work my way foor by foor, to have a mini meeting with everyone in the shop, in production, in fnance, in design – then, once I’ve been through everybody’s issues, I’ll maybe meet a client for lunch and walk them through the shop. Any spare moments are devoted to working on the new collection. ‘It’s a nice tight team, 14 of us in total, not including the jewellers who work at their benches on the lower ground foor. We’ve only been at 5 Carlos Place since last summer, but I’ve had a shop in Notting Hill or Mayfair since 1995. I got used to the area, having been in Bond Street for three years, and everyone seems to gravitate to the West End at some point during the week, so I’m used to seeing familiar faces. It’s a beautiful area with incredible neighbours. ‘The building is a house, so it feels very homely, and it has the most incredible
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‘The building is a house, so it feels very homely, and it has the most incredible decorative features’
PHOTOS: nicK rOcHOwSKi PHOTOgraPHy
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decorative features: beautiful plaster ceilings, thick oak doors, wood and marble freplaces and, most beautiful of all, an oak-panelled staircase. I wanted to bring out, enhance and embellish all of the existing decorative features and use colours that make me happy, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.’ Solange Azagury-Partridge, 5 Carlos Place, London W1K 5AP, +44 (0)20 7792 0197, solange.co.uk * for map go to page 84 globalblue.com
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Hatmaking – and wearing – is enjoying a revival, especially in London. Josh Sims dofs his cap to the city’s new millinery talents
HATS OFF
Justin Smith came to hats along one of the routes one might least expect: hairdressing. After all, who wants to cover up a great hairdo? ‘I was working at the more avant-garde end of hair design and a lot of that was sculptural, so I thought I’d study millinery to learn more about weight and proportion,’ says Smith, who trades as J Smith Esquire. He didn’t stop there. Studying at London’s Royal College of Art led to his own line, collaborations with the likes of Stella McCartney and Moschino and work for flm and theatre. ‘But then, I’ve always been an enthusiastic hat wearer myself,’ he notes.
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Above: hat designer Philip Treacy
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‘There is more interest in expressing individuality,’ says Smith, whose hats might be described as wearable pieces of art. ‘Hat-wearing has become more acceptable in the fashion and music industries – and the hat has moved much more to the forefront of the accessories market, although people who will happily pay £2,000 for a handbag generally still don’t want to pay so much for a hat.’ Smith’s bespoke hats start at £500, and cost up to perhaps £3,000 for a heavily beaded piece for a masked ball. London’s millinery output is on the up, building in part on its established base, both historic and contemporary. The city, after all, is home to the likes of Lock & Co Hatters, Above (clockwise from lef): Lock & Co traditional tools; Christys’ factory, circa early 1960s; It’s My party!, Piers Atkinson, spring/summer 2014
PHOTO:LORENZO DALBOSCO
Sixty years ago it would have been considered unbecoming to leave the house without wearing a hat, until making such a statement became old-fashioned due to changing sartorial winds. But now attitudes towards the hat are warming again, particularly in London, where a unique millinery tradition exists, especially since the British aristocracy still celebrates ‘the season’ every spring. This society circuit embraces horse racing at Ascot, the Glyndebourne opera festival and everything in between –all of which require a hat. Also, as Smith observes, ‘everyone from the Duchess of Cambridge to Lady Gaga’ has been seen in ever more striking creations.
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Star milliners such as Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy have trailblazed a hat revival
inventor of the bowler, Christys’, famous for its panamas, and Bates, one of London’s oldest hat stores. Kangol has been a leading hat manufacturer ever since Mary Quant, the Beatles and London’s Carnaby Street scene took to its beret. More recently, star milliners such as Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy have trailblazed a hat revival. ‘There is this idea that hats somehow make you look funny. Once you wore a hat to conform. Now it’s to rebel,’ as Treacy notes. Smith’s modern contemporaries include London-based hatmaker Nasir Mazhar, who trained with milliner Jane Smith, has collaborated on designs for the likes of Viktor & Rolf and Thierry Mugler, and has won a
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reputation among east London’s edgier fashion followers for his visors and box-peaked cap – a reinvention of the equally fashionable baseball cap. Piers Atkinson is son of theatrical milliner Hilary Elliott, from whom he learned hatmaking, launching his debut collection in 2008 and picking up a celebrity clientele including Kate Moss, Rihanna and Lady Gaga. Philip Wright, after training at the London College of Fashion, has brought the family business, Walter Wright, established in 1889 in Luton, up to date with his designs. Wright argues that hats have undergone a revival due to bespoke makers combating
the of-putting dominance of homogenised, lower-quality items from many of the giant high street retail chains. This leaves the real challenge: getting someone to try a hat in the frst place. ‘People need to be shown that they can look good in a hat when invariably they think they don’t – you need a good frst experience,’ he says. ‘In London you can get that – and have an appreciative audience.’ ‘London certainly has some very good millinery courses and nearly all the milliners I know teach in London too,’ says Flora McLean of House of Flora, another key London milliner. McLean trained at the Royal College
Above (from lef): Walter Wright hat; Milliner Flora McLean of House of Flora ; House of Flora Ping Pong collection, spring/summer 2014
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PHOTO: DAN BurN FOrTI
PHOTO: MAX OPPENHEIM
‘A huge influx of international millinery students has helped make hatmaking extremely exciting’ - milliner Flora McLean
of Art. Her graphic, angular designs, crafted in unexpected materials – coloured, high-gloss plastics are a favourite – maximise headwear’s sculptural qualities and, perhaps best of all, add a heavy dose of cartoon humour. Her Elvis hat, for instance, is a hat, but it’s also a big black quif, complete with sideburns; while her new, mostly white spring/summer 2014 Ping Pong collection was inspired by a visit to the tennis museum in Wimbledon and includes pieces made of piqué, linen and string. ‘There has been a huge infux of international millinery students to the city and that has helped make hatmaking extremely
exciting lately,’ she adds. “They thrive here because London is accepting of diferent cultures and of diferent means of expressing yourself. Most interesting hats are not practical – they are a means of self-expression, of building your confdence. If you can’t say it, wear a hat!’ jsmithesquire.com, lockhatters.co.uk, christys-hats.com, bates-hats.co.uk, kangol.com, stephenjonesmillinery.com, philiptreacy.co.uk, nasirmazhar.com, piersatkinson.com, philipwrighthats.co.uk, houseofora.net
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London’s prestigious Mayfair district welcomes some notable new arrivals this spring. Stephen Doig shares an insider address book
THE MAGIC OF MAYFAIR The historical streets of Mayfair are set for an injection of fashion adrenalin this season. The area has always been a magnet for glossy superbrands and the raft of stores opening this spring confrms once again that Mayfair is the centre of the fashion world in London. In recent years, it has seen serious contenders – the rise of east London as a style haven (with reports abounding that Prada and Ralph Lauren were set to open stores there), the creeping dominance of west London. But Mayfair is proving deftly that it’s still at the beating heart of luxury retail with new launches not just among international names but British stars too. ‘This is an incredibly exciting time for us,’ say London Fashion Week superstar Christopher Kane and his sister Tammy Kane, deputy creative director of the label. ‘To have our own retail space gives us the chance to showcase our collections and to really express our vision. To open in London frst was really important to us as this is where our label was born.’ Christopher Kane,
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Above: Mount Street, Mayfair, 1957
PHOTO: ASSOciATed NewSPAPerS/reX
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mappinandwebb.com
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Tom Ford cemented London’s place as the world’s most enticing shopping destination when he chose the city for his flagship womenswear store widely acknowledged as one of London’s most visionary creatives, is set to launch his fagship store in Mayfair’s Mount Street this spring. What’s notable about this move, which follows the backing of the young Scottish designer’s business by French luxury conglomerate PPR, is that it proves just how successful a homegrown London fashion talent can be; the designer only launched his namesake label in 2007. The move also cements Mount Street’s status as one of Mayfair’s most prestigious positions; once a rather conservative, grand old ofshoot of central Mayfair (some traditional labels still reside there), it’s now a high-voltage fashion arena, with Lanvin, Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs, Roland Mouret and Oscar de la Renta all in the vicinity. Kane’s move will, in early 2014, be mirrored by Roksanda Ilincic (see our interview on page 64), another London Fashion Week favourite. Ilincic, who is, like Kane, a Above (clockwse from lef): Christopher Kane spring/summer 2014; Oscar de la Renta Mayfair store; designer Christopher Kane
PHOTO: PIXELFORMULA/SIPA/REX
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graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design, is bringing her fuid, feminine, colourful womenswear to Mount Street. It’s a feather in the cap of London fashion that the city that once languished as a backwater is now producing young designers with such kudos that they can set up fagship stores in the sixth most expensive city in the world. Venturing further south to Mayfair’s Dover Street, another British designer, Victoria Beckham, is set to open her debut own-brand store in April 2014. Since launching her brand in 2009, the former Spice Girl has won over the fashion elite with collections that focus on dresses in streamlined shapes with minimalistic detailing and jolts of electric colour. A difusion line, Victoria by Victoria Beckham, caters to a more whimsical woman, with eclectic prints and softer shapes; the store is thought to be hosting both labels under its (suitably polished) roof. It’s further confrmation that Beckham Above (clockwse from lef): Victoria Beckham spring/summer 2014; Tom Ford London fagship store; Roland Mouret’s Mayfair store exterior; Tom Ford’s Private Blend London perfume, designed to celebrate his London fagship store launch
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A raft of new store openings confirms once again that, despite some serious competition, Mayfair remains the centre of the fashion world in London
is now a big-league fashion name and no mere celebrity dabbling in the art; fans including Beyoncé, Cameron Diaz and Gisele Bündchen are also testament to that. Mayfair’s newcomers are among stellar company. Another recent addition at the end of last year was Tom Ford, who further cemented the British capital’s place as the world’s most enticing shopping destination when he chose London over any other city to launch a fagship womenswear store – a signifcant seal of approval. Designed by architect William Sofeld, the boutique is as exactingly crafted and pristine as the designer’s own work, in stark monochrome and gleaming steel. Those who can’t quite stretch to one of Ford’s punchy, colourful dresses can always take home the perfume designed to celebrate the London store launch: Private Blend London. roksandailincic.com, victoriabeckham.com, tomford.com
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THE RISE OF
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ROKSANDA As designer Roksanda Ilincic prepares to open her debut Mayfair store, she tells Frances Wasem about her inspirations and her glittering London career If a fashion designer’s success can be gauged by their gowns being worn by those women making world history, or lighting up the fashbulbs on the red carpet, it’s fair to assume that Roksanda Ilincic’s place in the frmament of British style talent is frmly sealed. Ilincic’s feminine, intelligent designs have become the frst choice for the A-list elite, from Michelle Obama to Samantha Cameron, Kate Middleton to Keira Knightley, Gwyneth Paltrow to Lady Gaga. That Ilincic was awarded the Red Carpet Award at 2012’s British Fashion Awards is no surprise. On the eve of the launch of her frst fagship store, the self-efacing Ilincic is still as enthusiastic as ever about her mission statement. ‘I want the dress to appeal to a woman’s sense of femininity, but also her sense of mystery and imagination. I enjoy experimenting with shape, form and colour. Each season, I try and create new challenges for myself and that’s why I love it,’ says the willowy brunette in her lilting Serbian accent. Ilincic possesses both charm and talent. She has come a long way since she moved to London in 1999, going on to graduate from Central St Martins College of Arts and Design in 2000 with an MA in womenswear. She launched her eponymous collection in 2002 and frst showed her collection at London Fashion Week in 2005, with the support of the Topshop New Generation scheme. In 2006 she was nominated for the British Fashion Council’s New Designer award – and she held her own formal catwalk show in spring/summer 2009. And, with a contingent of red-carpet stars turning to the designer for her brand of nuanced elegance, it is remarkable that they
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Bond Street’s only fashion store.
PHOTOS: ELLIOTT NEEP
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are all powerful women, who would never allow the dress to ‘wear’ them. ‘When a woman wears my clothing, I want her to feel confdent and comfortable,’ says Ilincic. Collaborations and difusion lines with Whistles and Debenhams have served to bring her architectural designs to a wider market. Ilincic has become a key member of an increasingly respected British pool of talent, from Erdem and Roland Mouret to Mary Katrantzou. None of these designers was born in Britain, but their design aesthetic – elegant, contemporary and just a little edgy – is uniquely British. They also all have international reputations. Why does Ilincic think London is such a unique design hub? ‘The culture in London allows so much freedom, which
I think is key to creativity. You come across people from diferent walks of life every day and I think that makes it exciting. It enables London-based designers to explore their ideas and aesthetics without feeling any constraints,’ she says. This isn’t to say she doesn’t apply her magpie eye to foreign climes; her work has brought her from the Balkans to the UK and her design aesthetic benefts from her myriad travels too. ‘I constantly pull inspiration from where I have travelled; the last year has been fantastic as it’s included trips to Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia and Dubai.’ For her spring/summer collection, she says she looked to the work of Brazilian artist Hélio Oiticica for his ‘uncompromising use of colour.’ Life isn’t slowing down for Ilincic and 2014
Previous: designer Roksanda Ilincic
Above (both): Roksanda Ilincic spring/summer 2014
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looks set to be another stellar year. As well as juggling family life (she has a husband, Philip, and a small daughter Efmia, who inspired the 2012 launch of the children’s line Blossom) she continually strives to keep a fresh outlook on her collection. ‘I love experimenting with shape, form and colour – each season I create new challenges for myself and it’s why I love designing.’ This year the designer opens her frst fagship store on London’s Mount Street (see our Mayfair feature on page 58), a sign that she is also a formidable businesswoman: owning a fagship on one of London’s most prestigious streets is a serious achievement, and all the more remarkable given that her label isn’t owned by any parent company – the move was made possible through grit and hard work. ‘We are thrilled to have found a home for the brand in Mayfair and can’t wait to unveil the concept,’ she says. Ilincic showed her autumn/winter 2014/15 collections as part of London Fashion Week in February. The city is clearly a source of endless fascination for her. ‘We have
an amazing dynamic here in London with such talent across music, fashion and art. When I have time, I love wandering around the city and shopping in Columbia Road market and Camden Passage in Islington. I absolutely love London. It’s a busy, creative and warm city,’ says the designer. Her interest in fashion was sparked by her mother, who travelled a great deal and would pick up opulent pieces from Yves Saint Laurent in Paris. ‘As a child I adored watching her get dressed, her sense of polish. I once cut up one of her Yves Saint Laurent skirts to make it shorter – I can’t believe it now. I’m not sure how she ever forgave me.’ Next year, Ilincic will have been in the fashion industry, and, indeed, London, for a landmark 15 years. What advice would she ofer a design ingénue starting out today? ‘It seems obvious, but just keep trying and most importantly, believe in yourself.’ It seems that a great many people believe in Ilincic’s own vision roksandailincic.com
Above: Roksanda Ilincic’s frst collection, shown at London Fashion Week in 2005
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New aNd Noteworthy London’s restaurant scene is constantly evolving, with new openings and fresh dining concepts awaiting discovery on every visit. Verity Hogan peruses the menus at some of the very best
London’s dining options are richly varied; from gourmet fast food to refned Michelin-starred restaurants, there is a venue to suit every taste and budget. The city’s multi-cultural inhabitants have helped to forge a creative, internationally inspired restaurant scene, while the constant infux of new residents means there is always a new venue waiting to come to the fore. Current trends combine an appreciation of ingredient provenance with interiors that range from stylish art deco dining rooms with muted colour schemes to intimate, low-lit lounges. globalblue.com
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PHOTO: Dylan THOmas PHOTOgraPHy
On e C a na da Squa r e
Set in one of London’s most iconic landmarks, One Canada Square ofers a suitably striking art deco interior to complement its international menu. Chef Jamie dobbin draws on the traditions, techniques and favours of european, american and asian cuisine and combines them with British produce to create innovative dishes; the restaurant’s raw seafood bar is freshly stocked from neighbouring Billingsgate Market each day. The restaurant’s interior has a traditional feel, in contrast to its skyscraper surroundings; note the oxblood and racing green colour scheme, herringbone-patterned tables and oak timber fooring. One Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London e14 5aB, +44 (0)20 7559 5199, onecanadasquarerestaurant.com
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Bō Làng
PHOTO: PHILIP VILE
Bō Làng’s atmospheric interior transports diners from Chelsea to China with its muted grey leather sofas, charcoal velvet chairs and oriental cut-out screens. Far from representing style over substance, the restaurant’s menu showcases the talents of dim sum master
Kai Wang to great efect; from seasonal vegetable spring rolls and pumpkin and mouli dumplings to Sichuan pepper squid, every dish is beautifully presented and expertly favoured. Bō Làng, 100 Draycott Avenue, London SW3 3AD, +44 (0)20 7823 7887, bolangrestaurant.co.uk
Pont St
occupying a sought-after location in the heart of Belgravia and boasting the youngest female executive chef in Britain, Pont St has fast become one of London’s most talked-about restaurants. Chef Sophie Michell draws on her experiences in California, Australia and the globalblue.com
Mediterranean to create a distinctive seafoodrich menu. Diners can choose between a series of small plates and main meals, including panfried sea trout with courgettes, charred leeks and sauce vierge, and butternut squash ravioli, liberally coated in butter, sage and Parmesan. Pont St, Belgraves, 20 Chesham Place, London SW1X 8HQ, +44 (0)20 3189 4850, thompsonhotels.com
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Café Murano acclaimed chef angela Hartnett continues her run of success at the recently opened Café Murano. a more relaxed relation to her luxury restaurant Murano, the café ofers a well-edited menu of northern Italian cuisine, focusing on simple, favourful dishes. Guests
r e x ta I l arkady novikov’s latest restaurant specialises in ofering the highest quality fsh, meat and game dishes with an international infuence. rextail’s premium steaks are a menu highlight, while the innovative use of charcoal grills and a wood-fred oven provide additional globalblue.com
can sink into the comfortable chocolatebrown leather banquettes or take a seat at the bar where a menu of light cicchetti dishes is available. Main menu highlights include ox cheek with wet polenta and chestnuts and a Swiss chard, spinach and ricotta tortelli. Café Murano, 33 St James’s Street, london SW1 1HD, +44 (0)20 3371 5559, cafemurano.co.uk
favour. the rest of head chef adrian Martin’s menu is impressively diverse, ranging from braised short beef ribs with herb-baked bone marrow to venison loin served with wild cranberries and yuzu-scented black cod. Rextail, 13 albemarle Street, london W1S 4HJ, +44 (0)20 3301 1122, rextail.co.uk
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Stay in Style The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
HOTEL MIGUEL ANGEL One of Spain’s most luxurious hotels, the Miguel Angel boasts an appropriately highend address in Madrid’s elegant Barrio de Salamanca. The hotel’s central location means guests are just moments away from Madrid’s main attractions and can make the most of the magnifcent views across Paseo de la Castellana. The hotel’s range of amenities is sure to satisfy even the most demanding of globalblue.com
guests; it ofers 267 fully equipped rooms with relaxed, contemporary decor, a spa with heated pool and ftness centre, a large garden and one of the city’s most popular restaurants, M29; be sure to try the grilled red tuna tataki with spinach gnocchi. Hotel Miguel Angel, 29-31 Miguel Angel, 28010 Madrid, +34 91 442 0022, hotelmiguelangel.com
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RENAISSANCE bARCELONA HOTEL The Renaissance Barcelona Hotel is renowned for ofering its guests an exceptional standard of service, as well as sleek, contemporary interior design. Each of its guestrooms features luxurious bedding, individual climate-control settings, high-speed internet connections and modern bathroom suites, while the state-ofglobalblue.com
the-art ftness centre, open 24 hours a day, is an added beneft. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s highly acclaimed Cru Restaurant & Steakhouse, which serves only the fnest Black Angus beef steaks alongside a carefully selected range of premium wines. Renaissance Barcelona Hotel, Pau Claris 122, 08009 Barcelona, +34 93 272 3810, renaissancebarcelonahotel.com
PHOTO: Elan FlEisHEr/ElanHOTElPix.cOm
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fleming’s Hotel municH-city Located in Munich city centre, Fleming’s Hotel combines home comforts with an innovative design that is sure to appeal. Each of its bedrooms boasts a striking décor with strict lines and a bright colour scheme, while the bathrooms are luxuriously appointed in granite, parquet and glass. Business guests will also globalblue.com
appreciate the sound-insulated windows, free WLAN connection and oversized desks, while the Finnish sauna and aroma steam bath are ideal for those hoping to relax. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s brasserie, which ofers a menu that encompasses everything from rustic pasta dishes to French haute cuisine. Fleming’s Hotel Munich-City, Bayerstrasse 47, 80335 Munich, +49 (0)89 444 4660, femings-hotels.com
PHOTO: QuabbE+TEssmann
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Waldorf astoria Berlin The newly opened Waldorf Astoria Berlin strikes the perfect balance between timeless elegance and modern amenities. Its location in the heart of West Berlin is within walking distance of a host of attractions and the hotel itself ofers myriad facilities. Visitors to Les Solistes, the hotel’s restaurant, will
delight in the way its menu fuses traditional French cooking methods with contemporary ingredients, while those hosting a special event are sure to be impressed by the ballroom. Don’t miss the Guerlain spa with its menu of soothing body, face and massage treatments, indoor pool and state-of-the-art exercise equipment. Waldorf Astoria Berlin, Hardenbergstrasse 28, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 814 0000, waldorfastoria3.hilton.com
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Guide
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Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
P.92
& ND ● LLA HO LLAND HO I● ON BRI ● ZO KEN LL A STE Y ● TNE T ● CAR AN MC MAR ● L W E C A SABE TTH ● L EI I MA SON M LIA ● WIL LEY PER P S ● TEM HILLI ON 8 D P ANE V G ● I P.11 A L R D RON NBE LA ● STE IE FU R MARG RIS ● IN HAR ART LLER MI
MA
ISO
BOU R
DO
NS
TR
EE
T
NM
● LANVIN
● LOEWE
● CAROLINA HERRERA
● GOYARD
● MACKINTOSH ● CÉLINE
● PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● STEPHEN WEBSTER
M O U N T S T R EET
DAVIES STREET
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD ●
C A R L O S PLA CE
BALENCIAGA ● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● PAULE KA ●
MARC JACOBS ●
Scot’s
MOUNT ROW ● ROLAND MOURET ● JESSICA MCCORMACK SOLANGE P.48 ● AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE ● JENNY PACKHAM
GROS V EN OR HILL
DUNHILL BOURDON ● HOUSE
BR
N U TO
STR
EET
Berkeley Square
South Molton Street, Davies Street & Brook Street
Nicholas KirKwood
NE W BOND S TRE
ET
I Selfridges P.38 US OT EN Z A OC L R BOND STREET EG O R S F IER LO
O M T H N E P CO OX FO RD S TR ● A U R O WU D I A R C . EE T ● B L A M I N ● PINKO ● C IAN S ● G AIL ICA L E BOSIDENG ● ● N RT H R ● A US O A BROWNS ● ● L INK TIE D D WHISTLES ● ● P ER AR ● B ÉR BS PRINGLE ● ● G OB 3 NK BUTLER & WILSON ● ● H .W C E ● N PA S I N I O ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● S EIS IM R R DUNE ● ER ● R AT C A K E ● C AS BA OM EN ● M ED ICE W K ILL ● T FF LO M R VERTICE UOMO ● ● O EL EN A ● Y AR WE U JONES ● ● K LO E N T E A MONICA VINADER ● ● S A J OO BA E ES ● M AS IT IN PL R AFTERSHOCK ● ● S ET O L O GE POSTE ● ● P U C KO E I ● R HE T G ET T COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● T UR E LA Y ● K T I N CO MODA IN PELLE ● ER ● AR HO AUBADE ● LL T C ● K WE OF N WOLFORD ● C JE S DO SANDRO ● ● INK N SPENCE R L LO ANNOUSHKA ● ● HART ●
ACCESSORIZE ●
SO
UT
H
M
TO OL
N
ST
RE
ET
ER Y
BROOKS MEWS
AV
● SONIA RYKIEL ● POMELLATO
BROOK STREET
Claridge’s
● PAUL SMITH
VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●
DAVIES STR EET
Nicholas Kirkwood’s footwear designs are instantly recognisable; his architectural lines, use of bold colour and texture combinations, and pared-back approach to embellishment mean his pieces have wide-ranging appeal. craftsmanship is integral to every design, while Kirkwood is also known for embracing more unusual materials; expect to fnd shoes featuring devoré satin, laser-cut mirrored leather, python, cobra and shaved stingray within the range. Nicholas Kirkwood, 5 Mount street, london w1K 3NE, +44 (0)20 7290 1404, nicholaskirkwood.com
RO W
GROSVEN OR STREET
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Restaurant
London Underground Station
Hotel
Department Store
SHOP Recommendation
Featured In This issue
S H O P | 85
New Bond Street OX FO RD ST RE
ET ZAR
SE O
F LA
BEL
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PR
V IA ONO
BON
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●
NEW
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TENTERDEN STREET
T
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S● HAM B O N IA M S ● IL L W RM S● BLE F LA SE O OLD D● U HOU ● LUDWIG REITER ROG BA G IR L E Y ● ●O O IS M HANOVER STREET ANC & BRO R F STREET BROOK E K LL H E ● 77 DIAMONDS IC IT S ● ET ENW RUS MAR F R C ● SE A ● R IA’S B A L LY ANN O B T A G V IC ● E& RCH O LC DMA ●D N● A H IN NI RMO A ANY J RMA ● A IO A TA R L L IE POR I FO M A L ● E L ● SS PI FO O Y M O BO BROO KS MEWS NK ERR ● LY A HUG ZI ULB USE E O L M O H ● AG S H A TE NEL ARE V W T I E U A NA ● T IR LO A R SHO S A AT Z EG CAR NE M AR M A ●N RI ● IL D O PI OH H E. ● Z IL E N EG F. ● R ● C ● E L A M ● P ● ER ALI MA DD OX ST. CAN ● THE BOX BOUTIQUE E P GROSVEN OR STREET EM G● ●W H IT L IN ● I BRE OAC N NA IA N ●C HSO Z EG NEL ● R MYT ET O ’S IL D O C CH ●S R N EG U RE E R IA CH RME IT E R ST Y ● C R R E T E L I TH AL U ●O OT RA G E ND A IN UBL OPE FF ● ●H ONT CO S TA I ● GRO SV ENOR HILL NE F BEL P N N A M SO ● CHA M IS S● O ONG ●L CHO H IL IP I ● L MY SJ P BEL Y Z IL L AMP ● J IM MLE IE C C BRO U L& ●L ET L N E E E TR SS UR U A R L BOURDO N S ● LPH S) ● O R A IL D R E N POL CH ● (C H Y BUR ● Y ERR R IU TO M URB M IU ●B
ET
DAVIE S ST R EET
NEW
BON
D ST
R EE
T
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DAVIES STREET
IL E R
OW
TEM
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BRU
TO N
ST
● MÈS HER ● ORS K L ● HAE NA M IC P IA L ● O LOR H A N E C R● D IO IA N IS T CHR
OU ●L
IS V
BON
D ST
REE
T
D OV
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TRE
ET
Place Of Interest
U IT
TO N
CLIF
FOR
D ST
REET
ND RLA IT Z E F SW E S O IP E H ● C S L AT ● W E K P H IL O N A D IE ’S L R O N ● AT NS E RCH ●P G JE CHU BOUCH ONO EO R G G O ● IS E GR EY ● ●D R R P AS DLE RD ●A A I● HOP GAR P.96 ● C IR A BUL GET ● ● O T E IA P ●M S● ARK U C M LS ET M A R TO N ● RPE UET TRE S R EG EEF & A ER S ●B W IN IE F F ● L C Y R N D OV ● A A HAR OUSS NEL ● ●V GER F N M BAD R A F L AU R E CHA E T ● ●G LF & UM PH S WO RAL C H A T IE R ● DEN ● 7 P.8 GAR CAR LES ● TO N D G O ● O IN O B L T BUR IM O M IK R R IS ● T IN MO BOU AV ID LOU D N T IA H R IS ●C
NEW
Berkeley Square
●
The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save
The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the world’s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register *Subject to local conditions.
G U I D E | 87
Conduit Street & Old Bond Street
’S
TRE
HU ●C
RD S
ST
R
ET
ILE R
ET
ALB
ET
TRE
TRE
SK S
OW
CO R
DS
ON
BON
S AV
FFO
IT ●K
OLD
CLI
IT
T
OU ●F
PET
CO
U ND
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Wolf & Badger RCH
KE -3 IYA ● Y SEY M ● TCH ● IS SKE ● OTO AM AM JI Y ND YO H BIE IL A NE ROM H AV IEN ●C UE V IV M A N ● AN N A L IQ K AR SHESO OD ●L OOD RNO ● NA R O ST W DON ETE L HE ST W Y● ● E E WE W KLE ANI NNE ●D HOC LLER ● IV I E E UTI ●V HI ● &P E BY ERL FA R R IG ROB ●B OLE ARD N IC ●W ● YS BAR HEB S● OLO Y SOT ●P ARD ERR N● DW URB E R E O S S IA O ● ●B E IN TAT SCH LL & MO USSE EY ● R ML BRO
CLARKS ●
ST RE ET M AD DO X
ER M ARL E ST REE T
RDE N G AMO G TO A R L IN R R AG
When searching for the next big thing, be sure to schedule a visit to Wolf & Badger’s Mayfair boutique. This stylish concept store was founded by brothers Henry and george graham in 2009 and has always been committed to stocking only the most exciting independent designers. The store’s range is not limited to fashion; a selection of jewellery, accessories and interior design pieces by a number of labels from the UK and beyond is also available. The current crop of featured designers includes Isabelle rowe, Judy Wu and outsider while previous store alumni include Mark fast and Bora aksu. Wolf & Badger, 32 dover Street, london W1S 4Ne, +44 (0)20 3627 3191, wolfandbadger.com for map go to page 85
NS
E BU RE F AT O A LV H ●S P OSE ●J IL A A H AT ● C X MAR er ER ● v P A o M A D eet CA ●M ● NET DA X r St r ke t P R A EG A V E OLE R ● T Z Ma MARIA KRIS ● B O T L K AT ● A ● N I IE ● NC AN G I A L L AT IEV ● D NTBLA CE LEV ● O BUC Burlington NT ● M EG A URE A M L O I Arcade ● ET NT IA N SA I D STR E CCI ● DA M R U ● O G FF AKS N● S TA ANA ●D A NTI ABB QUEEN IN S TA ● ● G LCE & G CO N MC RTU E N R V O O E ● ●D HER AND LDI VA C LEX INA TRE ●A AR R● ’S OUL RIN TIE TO D R- L EC B B MA ● CAR ● E O WE A EG & J ETR AL ● IN APP R OY Y ●M THE ADEM S● R E C A BE DE
TIFFAN Y & CO. ● PAUL SMITH ● N E L ● CHA NY ● DK
OLD
BON
D ST
REE
T
D OV
ER S
TRE
ET
ADI
The Wolseley
L LY
ARL ING TO N
YN S
TREE
T
STR .
Le Caprice
JER M
PHOTO: NICHOLAS ADAMS
● JIMMY CHOO
C PIC
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Department Store
Shopping Centre/Mall
Restaurant
88 | G U I D E
Regent Street Dabbous GREAT CASTLE STREET
LEVI’S ●
● NIKETOWN
H&M ●
● TOPSHOP / TOPMAN
OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●
KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ● LACOSTE ●
RE ET
● OMEGA
REGENT STR EE T
FRENCH CONNECTION ●
OX FO RD ST
● TEZENIS
● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE
● ARMANI EXCHANGE
● ALL SAINTS
LONGCHAMP ●
● H&M
T B LI C STR EE OUGH RLBOR A M T A GRE P.44 Liberty
AN ● BAN
FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ●
A R EP U
● COS
CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●
R EG E
● HOUSE OF HANOVER
MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●
With its industrial-style interior featuring exposed brickwork, sheet metal and copper pipes, Dabbous is a world away from a typical luxury dining room. In contrast to the unpretentious decor, ollie Dabbous’s cuisine is exquisite; characterised by clean favours and simple presentation, it makes the most of ingredients’ natural assets. The menu is seasonal but expect to fnd dishes such as fennel salad with lemon balm and pickled rose petals, or beef tartare with cigar oil, whisky and rye, paired with wines known for their crisp favour. Dabbous, 39 Whitfeld street, London W1T 2sF, +44 (0)20 7323 1544, dabbous.co.uk
● DESIGUAL UB
ERT
'S P
L AC
E
● JAEGER ● KURT GEIGER
NAB Y ST
REET
CAR
NT ST
CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●
FO
● GAP
T
● JUICY COUTURE
REE
● HAMLEYS
GANT ●
● HUGO BOSS ● ESPRIT
Cinnamon Soho
● LEVI’S ● REISS
S AV I
● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI
R EGE
LE R OW
L’OCCITANE ●
BEA
NT ST
CRABTREE & EVELYN ●
● BROOKS BROTHERS
R EE T
WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●
. K ST
OXFORDS ●
● TIMBERLAND ● TOMMY HILFIGER
GODIVA ● S AV
SWAROVSKI ●
● MAPPIN & WEBB
ILE R
OW
ZARA HOME ● PENHALIGON’S ●
TOYWATCH ●
P.44
BURBERRY ●
VIGO STR EE T
RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY ● T.M. LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Restaurant
SHOP Recommendation
Featured In This Issue
London Underground Station
to put a price on. we have created the Deep Blue Programme in partnership with the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, to preserve ocean environments in the Maldives and the Cook islands, home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species. To ďŹ nd out more visit globalblue.com/oceans
90 | G U I D E
Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street VIGO STR EE T
● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT GL AS ● MOSS SH CLARKS ● OU SE LONDON TEXTILE CO ● R E ● UNIQLO ● LUSH ST RE GE ET ● COACH HOLLISTER ● N T S ● NESPRESSO T RE ● LOTUS GILLY HICKS ● REISS ●
SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE:
SUPERDRY ●
THE LEFT SHOE COMPANY P.43
V IL LE STR E
Fo r t n
ET
YA L
ALFR ED DU
D IL LY
YN S
TR EE
T
R R EG
L●
I●
LO W E
JER M
N H IL
BOGG
R EE T
● LILLYWHITES
RO
P IC C A
ENT S
DUK
R AY HN B DSON ● JO & HU R V IE ● HA T. EEN D GR D BOND S WA R ● ED OR OF OL Y YL ● TA IT C H & K E D o ’s S T R E E T ● H IL n li B U RY Quag R ASSE LL & NES RNBU ● T U C K E T T & JO O P ● CR CHAM ’S ● DU IC K E R ● T R A W IL L IS M ● E M ID O F F R EE T V ’S S T ● DA MES
YN ST
PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus
’S W L E Y LON DON S ● RO METT ● EM S NE ● JO OF T IG E R E D E N ’S ● SW U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H ● EA IN . LEW ● T.M NES ● R STO WAT E S K ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU EY L R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL DON ● RU DRO F LON IE L D F KS O ● LLA ● L IN O N & W H IT S XT JO N E ● PA TT & RLES OCKE ● CR K CHA D E R IC ● RO O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CK E T & KE ● ● HA IT C H EN H IL D K SON BARK E ● ● P IN ER & AK FOST IS T D SPE R ● WS H AN & CU H C Z EC WES N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S ’S JA M E ● DE T ST
n
rcade
Maso
ess A
um &
P r in c OD ● GWO & L IN ● NEW OOK URBR ● FAV O TO N S ● W IL E● TUMI R O M SL AD N● E STO JM W ● C O ’S FR AN T TA ● BERE
JER M
B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T AR D● C MAR AMPO Z IO ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW C U R TE S & T H E S IS ● T IN G ●
S AC K
ET
EE
TR EE
E STR
K IN G
ST R E
T
S T JA
St James’s Square
CH A R
LE S II
STR E
ET
ET
CzeCh & Speake Czech & Speake designer Frank Sawkins aims to provide high-quality bathroom fttings with bespoke appeal. There are two ranges; one takes inspiration from the edwardian era while the Cubist range ofers a more art deco aesthetic. The store is also home to a range of luxurious toiletries and other accessories, including a house scent. Czech & Speake, 39C Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6DN, +44 (0)20 8983 7400, czechandspeake.com
Global Blue Retailer
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Department Store
London Underground Station
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Restaurant
SHOP Recommendation
Featured In This Issue
S H O P | 91
Brompton Road
RO LE X
RO AD
●
KE NS IN GT ON
KENSINGTON ROAD BU
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
RB
ER
● UG PA G A U L C ● AR ZIL ST ● H& LO ER R A LI PA I ● BE M A ZO ● KIP NET LI K A LI TO T NI RE E N T R S N L ● EN G HAE RAP ● HO M IL ● L.K BB LE ● EC . B S N E C G N ● AN O NE A ● C T T C T BA E SL SS ● ER OR ● BA IZ ● WA R K E ● TO T E ● TH M CH R ● M E MY ES ● K U A S KO H I O F ● TE T SIM OP LF S ● RU D B CHI O LE IGE WIT ZA SS A NS DU S R ZE RL R A EL KE KY T T I L R AN & D B KNIGHTSBRIDGE R O M LE Y RY
AD
ON
PT
JA
PA
●
EN
●
●
HO
S
●
ES
P
GU
BA SIL ST RE ET
●
S
E
PS
ST
TO
CO
FS
CO
LU
S
O
RI
&
LA
ACE
●
S ●
L
R
●
O PH
●
RA
Ha
rr
od
IC
s
●
S
RO AD
P.2
2 HA
SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS:
ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS G ● PA O UN O SS ● S NK RE PI SP S IS RE
HA N
N RO AD
TE TA
DO
L TA
UT
D OA
IO PAVI LL
ES &
O OG
OM
PT
ON
R
BR
DI
NG
L OT P CEL
DS G
LD
BI
O
R
W GE
LLADRO
●
●
●
ET RE
LI ●
BA
AR
T
LA
EE
PP
CE
TR
AM
CA
RO
LI
N
E
CH
T
LE
S
●
PO
CH
NS
O I M O AN IU M IN AR LL S O PE NE RI
2 P.4 E R NC
●
Y E RR SP BE & UL KS M AR M ●
● EM
AU
LT O
NI ●
R BE AL & M A EU RI S O MU
JO
CT
●
VI
BE
WA
O
S ROAD
ST
IG
HAN
S IL
●
NE
ST
PT
TE
L
ST
OM
RD
ES
NA
REET
PY ● RA S ● HE TE S IO AT I A M C UD O SO ST AR AS RY O
BR
HI CA
BR
ON
O
CH
TS
O
ELIER ST
EL IE R PL
OM
CA
BA
LAN
RR
RO CO
TI NA
RE ET
MONTP
N S ST
E AC PL AL EV H C
HA
R PL
ST ER LI
M ON TP
PONT S
Place Of Interest
●
RO
ST RE ET
WAL K
PE LI ER
T R E VO
MONT
●
●
TR EV OR
TREVOR PL
VENTURE ● PHOTOGRAPHY
T R EE T
NS
C R ESCENT
92 | G U I D E
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Queen of Punk Vivienne Westwood continues to be a fashion pioneer at her Davies Street store – the only Westwood boutique in the UK to ofer a bespoke made-to-measure service. Visitors can make a private appointment to have a piece made to their exact specifcations. Westwood’s signature aesthetic remains at the heart of each design; femininity is celebrated and the team’s use of tailoring, crinoline and corsetry are all designed to fatter the feminine silhouette. Vivienne Westwood, 6 Davies Street, London W1K 3DN, +44 (0)20 7629 3757, viviennewestwood.com for map go to page 84
Sloane Street North
Sloane Street South
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
CADO GAN GAT E
CADOGAN PLACE
Harvey Nichols BOODLES ● KID SPACE ● FREY WILLE ●
T EE TR
LS SI
● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● MONCLER
● MISSONI ● LOUIS VUITTON ● BERLUTI
JOSEPH ●
● ROGER VIVIER
MARNI ●
● VERSACE ● FENDI
● CHANEL ● DRJIE ● LA PERLA ● COUTTS & CO BANK
CADOGA N PLACE
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Restaurant
PETER JONES ●
G’ S
Sloane Square
RD
● ANNOUSHKA ● KRSC
KIN
● KAB IRI
Department Store
ROYAL COURT THEATRE
SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S
● EMILIO PUCCI
Colbe rt
● HUGO BOSS
● SAINT LAURENT
● LARA BOHNIC ● PICKETT ● N.PEAL
LOW ER SLOANE ST REET
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●
● VALENTINO
AMOUAGE ●
LORO PIANA ●
● DOLCE & GABBANA
SLOA NE TERRACE
● PICKETT
● CASSANDRA GOAD
● GIEVES & HAWKES ● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA ● PINKO ● T.M. LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES. ● TED BAKER ● BIMBA & LOLA
● BULGARI
L O W N D E S S T.
● HERMÈS
JIMMY CHOO ●
SLOANE STREET
DIOR ●
WILBR AHAM PL .
● CHLOÉ ● MONTBLANC ● JO MALONE
SYMON S STREET
● MIU MIU
GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ●
PAULE KA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ANYA HINDMARCH BROWNS
LINKS OF LONDON ●
● RS TE S ● OT TR OPLE ● O CK EK RO TH W & O SN
ROBERTO CAVALLI ●
PRADA ●
CARTIER ● TIFFANY ●
I●
● GINA
GUCCI ●
GIORGIO ARMANI ●
Lowndes Square
HARRIET ST.
BONPOINT ●
TOD’S ●
LES PETITES ● MARIE CHANTAL ● PAUL & JOE ● SMYTHSON ● HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●
KIK
BA
● TOM FORD
● ESCADA
ANNE FONTAINE ●
● ● ● ●
NS
● ALBERTA FERRATTI
● FRATELLI ROSSETTI
BILLIONAIRE ● HOGAN ● GRAFF ●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
C A D O G AN GA RDE
● SERGIO ROSSI
SLOANE STREET
DOLCE & GABBANA ● SHANGHAI TANG ● BROWNS ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ●
ELLIS STREET
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
SLOANE STREET
MCM ● H&M ●
● PINK ● GARRARD
London Underground Station
S H O P | 93
LabOUr aND WaIT Championing a timeless design aesthetic where quality and utility are a priority, Labour and Wait ofers a carefully edited range of items that are intended to last a lifetime. The selection ranges from hardware to fashion and features pieces that would work equally well in a traditional or contemporary setting. Every item sold transcends seasonal trends; many pieces have a vintage lean, as seen in the store’s collection of ceramic milk jugs, Sussex trugs, Welsh rugs and classic leather satchels. Labour and Wait, 85 redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7729 6253, labourandwait.co.uk
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SCP WeSt SCP West specialises in providing beautiful yet functional pieces that are built to last. Founded by Sheridan Coakley in 1985, the store has enlisted a host of talented designers to produce an eclectic, high-quality collection. Pieces by Andrew Staford, tom Dixon, Rachel Whiteread and Robin Day are all available in the store while the range of items includes everything from furniture, lighting and kitchenware to stationery, toys and luggage. the store itself was designed by architects Munkenbeck & Marshall and is intended to provide a minimalist backdrop for the collection, complemented by fxtures and fttings crafted from natural materials. SCP West, 87 Westbourne Grove, London W2 4UL, +44 (0)20 7229 3612, scp.co.uk
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HeiDi KLein Holiday-ready all year round, Heidi Klein’s collection of designer swimwear efortlessly blends fashion and function to create a range of highly practical yet enduringly chic costumes. the diverse range includes one-pieces and bikinis as well as a collection of accessories such as sunhats, fip-fops and kaftans. every piece is designed to provide outstanding ft, shape and support, making use of fabrics that perform equally well in and out of the water. Prepare your skin for the beach whatever the weather by paying a visit to the boutique’s Mystic tan Booth, which ofers an even all-over tan in just two minutes. Heidi Klein, 174 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RW, +44 (0)20 7243 5665, heidiklein.com
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My LoNDoN: IMeLDa Burke After many years working in the fashion industry, Imelda Burke embarked on a new adventure, sparked by a personal desire for more natural and wholesome cosmetics, and founded Content Beauty & Wellbeing. Her Marylebone store ofers natural, organic skincare and beauty products, focusing on results-driven niche brands. She talks to Isabella Redmond Styles about health food, weekend rituals and outside spaces beingcontent.com
‘I live in Newington Green. I love that it has the best selection of health food stores. Mother Earth, Whole Foods Market and Planet Organic are all nearby and Newington Green Fruit & Vegetables has become famous for its varied selection – it was even featured in Vogue. Visit Planet Organic for the best selection of raw chocolate in London. ‘Dover Street Market * p.85 is a great example of clever retail. I used to be in the
fashion industry and every time I miss it, I make a visit here. Donlon Books has a diverse selection of hard-to-fnd books. I can spend hours here. The Peanut Vendor is a wonderful store flled with previously loved and treasured pieces of furniture and homeware. Mouki is a beautiful lifestyle store on Chiltern Street. The idea behind it is “clothes that get better with time, jewellery that will last forever, and beauty products that will make every day special.”
Above (from lef): Dover street Market; Mouki boutique; Petersham nurseries
G U I D E | 97
PHOTO: Helen CaTHCarT
PHOTO DaviD lOfTus
‘Four friends created Trangallán, a gem of a restaurant in a former social club in Newington Green. Fresh, local ingredients combined with Mediterranean favours draw on the chef’s culinary adventures in Tuscany, Catalunya and Provence. Each plate of food is exceptional! Nopi ofers sunny favours, typically from the Middle East and Asia – what’s not to like? ‘Sushi Tetsu consists of one man, his wife, seven seats and the best Japanese food in town. This traditional Japanese sushi and sashimi bar in Clerkenwell is where I go to
celebrate. Chef Toru sources the fnest ingredients to create mouthwatering dishes, a celebration of simple, clean food, while chatting to diners. For the best experience let him choose what you eat. ‘When friends visit, I take them on one of my favourite walks. Starting at Borough Market on a Friday, we walk along to Tate Modern and end at the Skylon bar at the Royal Festival Hall for an afternoon cocktail and the view across the Thames.
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‘I can regularly be found in Bodega 50, a café across from the Shakespeare in Allen Road. Jason, the owner, sources the best healthy cakes (I’m addicted to the linseed and berry one) and Japanese twig tea. It’s an essential weekend ritual. I have a lot of relaxation rituals – tea and the weekend papers, shopping at the local farmers’ market and, after a particularly busy period, I check myself into the St Pancras Spa for the day. I love the Victorian tiled bathing area. ‘I love the walk along the river from Richmond to the Petersham Nurseries café and plant nursery. They have a beautiful restaurant and café. I love sitting in the antique greenhouse – it feels like you are far away from the bustle of London. The store has a beautiful collection of antiques, homewares and gifts. ‘Dalston Eastern Curve Garden is hidden away from the street and is on the site of the old Eastern Curve railway line which once linked Dalston Junction Station to the goods yard and the North London line. Filled with wildlife-friendly trees and shrubs, the garden includes large raised beds where Dalston residents can grow food. At Kew Gardens I love the sense of history and time you get from walking around. The Victoria and Albert Museum * p.82 is defnitely my favourite in London. ‘My insider tip is: walk. Things are closer than you think and the best parts of London are missed if you travel by tube.’
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Bicester Village DoN’t MISS… Kenzo Kenzo’s creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have given the classic Parisian fashion house a fresh lease of life since their appointment in 2011. the pair’s love of travel, art, culture and fashion is evident throughout their vibrant collections, while their spontaneous approach to design means there’s always something new and exciting to see in store.
Stella McCartney
Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, oxfordshire oX26 6wD, +44 (0)1869 323200, bicestervillage.com Opening times open seven days a week all year round (closed Christmas Day)
ofering sharp tailoring, confdent cuts and an understated femininity, Stella McCartney’s collections always refect the designer’s signature design aesthetic. McCartney’s Bicester Village boutique plays host to her women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, lingerie, eyewear, fragrance and childrenswear collections, all of which are guaranteed to be produced without cruelty.
Rupert Sanderson Rupert Sanderson’s luxury footwear collections continually strike the perfect balance between comfort and style. each pair, regardless of shape and style, features a soft, comfortable insole while overall design is clean, precise and sophisticated. Look out for Sanderson’s distinctive dafodil gold-coloured nameplate proudly featured on every pair.
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PeRFeCt DAy 10am
Start your day at an english institution; taking inspiration from classic British fashion, Hackett combines sharp tailoring with heritage fabrics.
11am For accessories that will stand the test of time, Anya Hindmarch is a must-visit. Her pieces make use of the highest quality materials.
5pm end your day by picking up some pampering products from Molton Brown. this luxury label takes inspiration from exotic locations to produce beauty products that are flled with fragrant essential oils and plant extracts.
3pm American designer Tory Burch ofers an impressive range of handbags. Visit the Bicester store to select a new one from the wide variety of totes, cross-body styles and clutches available.
1pm take a break for lunch at the lively Carluccio’s café. the restaurant ofers an Italian-inspired menu, featuring pasta, risotto and salad made from fresh, favourful ingredients.
How to get tHeRe By Shopping Express the Shopping express is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December ticket prices: Adult return £25 Child return £20 (up to 15 years of age) By Train there are regular services – up to four an hour – from London Marylebone to Bicester North station. the journey time from London Marylebone to Bicester North can take as little as 42 minutes. the Bicester Village Shuttle Bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques. By Car the journey from London takes 60 minutes. take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village outlet Centre. the car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is oX26 6wD.
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When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of £30-£50 and save up to 11% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
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Translations Русский ПеРевод 52: Hats Of
слава шляпам Шляпное дело переживает возрождение, и в Лондоне это заметно более всего. Джош Симс отмечает возврат моды на изысканные головные уборы и снимает шляпу перед новым поколением мастеров Джастин Смит начал свой творческий путь в качестве стилиста-парикмахера. Едва ли можно было предположить, что за этим последует открытие лейбла J Smith Esquire: ведь любой головной убор сразу же прячет великолепную стрижку. «В то время я работал в авангардном стиле и увлекался сложными скульптурными прическами. Чтобы понять взаимодействие пропорций и веса, я обратился к шляпному делу», - вспоминает Смит. Но остановиться только на изучении он уже не смог. Окончив Лондонский королевский колледж искусства, он создал собственную линию головных уборов, затем сотрудничал со Stella McCartney и Moschino, участвовал в оформлении фильмов и спектаклей. «Но самое главное, я сам всегда был и остаюсь большим поклонником шляп», - добавляет он. Еще шестьдесят лет назад было абсолютно немыслимо выйти из дома с непокрытыми волосами. Но в какойто момент это просто стало считаться старомодным. Однако в наши дни интерес к изысканным головным уборам разгорается с новой силой, и в Лондоне – особенно. Именно здесь удалось сохранить уникальную культурную традицию. Королевские скачки в Аскоте, Глайндборнский оперный фестиваль и все прочие светские мероприятия – для британской аристократии, отмечающей открытие сезона каждую весну, шляпа globalblue.com
остается обязательным атрибутом. По словам Смита, «все, от герцогини кембриджской до Леди Гага», отдают предпочтение именно необычным моделям. «Выражение индивидуальности – вот что представляет подлинный интерес, утверждает дизайнер, работы которого можно смело назвать произведениями искусства. – Носить шляпы стало допустимым в модной и музыкальной индустриях, и они сразу же вышли на авансцену рынка аксессуаров. Однако люди, которые с удовольствием заплатят 2000 фунтов за сумку, по-прежнему не готовы отдавать столько же за головной убор». Цена на творения ручной работы от самого Смита может начинаться от 500 фунтов и доходить до 3000 за обильно расшитую модель для бала-маскарада. В Лондоне эта индустрия переживает новый подъем, к чему весьма располагает богатая история. Именно здесь компания Lock & Co Hatters изобрела котелок, а Christys –знаменитые панамы. Нельзя не вспомнить и Bates – старейший лондонский магазин головных уборов. Марка Kangol многие годы удерживает лидерские позиции, и к ее фирменным беретам обращались Мэри Куант, Beatles и многочисленные обитатели лондонской Карнаби-Стрит. В этом контексте закономерно появление современных продолжателей великих традиций. Так, в наше время звездные дизайнеры-шляпники Стивен Джонс и Филип Трейси активно способствуют перерождению этого аксессуара. «Распространено мнение, что шляпа может выставить своего обладателя смешным. Когда-то шляпы носили конформисты. А теперь - бунтари», - отмечает Трейси. Параллельно со Смитом в Лондоне работает дизайнер Назир Мажар. Он учился вместе с модисткой Джейн Смит, участвовал в разработке моделей для брендов Viktor & Rolf, Tierry Mugler и прославился среди поклонников модного дизайна восточного
PHOTO: MAX OPPENHEIM
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Лондона своими кепками с козырьком и формованной тульей – своеобразным переосмыслением бейсболки. Пьер Аткинсон – сын театральной модистки Хилари Эллиотт, которая и обучила его секретам профессионального мастерства. Он представил свою первую коллекцию в 2008 году, и за прошедшие годы его клиентами стали такие звезды, как Кейт Мосс, Рианна и Леди Гага. Филип Райт, получив образование в Лондонском globalblue.com
колледже моды, превратил семейное дело компании Walter Wright, основанной в 1889 году в Лютне, в современный бренд. Райт связывает новый этап с тем, что производители шляп на заказ сталкиваются с серьезной конкуренцией со стороны доступных массовых брендов, в изобилии выпускающих головные уборы низкого качества. Именно поэтому мастера получают настоящий вызов – прежде всего, убедить человека примерить шляпу. «Людям
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нужно наглядно продемонстрировать, что они могут прекрасно выглядеть в шляпе, поскольку они, без сомнения, уверены в обратном. Нужен успешный первый опыт, - утверждает он. – И в Лондоне вы можете получить его. Так нарабатывается благодарная аудитория». «Разумеется, в Лондоне есть очень хорошие курсы шляпного дела, и почти все мастера, которых я знаю, преподают здесь», - рассказывает выпускница Королевского колледжа искусств Флора МакЛин, владелица еще одного крупного специализированного бренда House of Flora. Она акцентирует скульптурные свойства головных уборов, делая их графичными, подчеркивая углы и используя неожиданные материалы (в фаворитах – цветной матовый пластик). Финальный и решающий штрих – изрядная доля карикатурного юмора. Например, шляпа Elvis украшена большой черной челкой и баками. Работая над коллекцией сезона весна/лето 2014 Ping Pong, дизайнер ездила в теннисный музей в Уимблдоне, чтобы создать модели в белых цветах из пике, льна и шнурков. «Очень много студентов приезжают учиться шляпному делу из других стран, и благодаря этому, жизнь индустрии закипает в последнее время, - добавляет она. – Они преуспевают здесь потому, что Лондон способен органично принимать различные культуры и формы проявления индивидуальности. Самые интересные уборы обычно непрактичны, но служат средством самовыражения, построения своей идентичности. Если вы не можете чего-то сказать словами, наденьте шляпу!» jsmithesquire.com, lockhatters.co.uk, christys-hats.com, bates-hats.co.uk, kangol.com, stephenjonesmillinery.com, philiptreacy.co.uk, nasirmazhar.com, piersatkinson.com, philipwrighthats.co.uk, houseofora.net
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58: The Magic Of Mayfair
Магическое обаяние Мейфэра В престижном лондонском районе Мейфэр этой весной открываются новые магазины. Стивен Дойг раскрывает пока еще не слишком известные планы В этом сезоне на исторических улицах Мейфэра развернется целое модное представление. Известные бренды всегда с большим удовольствием открывали здесь свои представительства. Магазины, которые появятся этой весной, в очередной раз подтверждают: именно Мейфэр – центр модного мира Лондона. В последние годы у района появляются серьезные соперники в борьбе за этот статус. Произошел подъем восточного Лондона, откуда постоянно приходят новости об открытии бутиков Prada или Ralph Lauren. Неуклонно растет влияние западных кварталов. Но Мейфэр мастерски доказывает, что именно он по-прежнему занимает центральное место в роскошной жизни города, привлекая не только международные лейблы, но и
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британские марки. Звезда Лондонской недели моды Кристофер Кейн, известный своим умением удивлять, этой весной открывает собственный флагманский магазин на Mount Street. «Это невероятно волнительный момент, - делятся он и его сестра Тэмми Кейн, исполняющая роль заместителя дизайнера. – Появление собственного бутика открывает нам возможность постоянно демонстрировать коллекции, выражать наше мировоззрение. Для нас очень важно, что первый бутик открывается именно в Лондоне, поскольку именно здесь появился наш лейбл». Поддержку в этом проекте Кейну оказал французский роскошный конгломерат PPR. И это знаковое событие в жизни шотландского дизайнера, который работает под собственной маркой только с 2007 года, наглядно демонстрирует, насколько успешным может быть путь молодого лондонского дарования. Вместе с тем появление магазина Кейна закрепило статус Mount Street как самой престижной улицы Мейфэра. Когда-то она была самой старинной, консервативной и уважаемой, так что некоторые традиционные лейблы до сих пор пребывают здесь. Теперь же здесь с ними соседствуют Lanvin, Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs, Roland Mouret и Oscar de la Renta, и улица
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вышла на модную авансцену. В начале 2014 года собственный бутик открывает еще один фаворит Лондонской недели моды - Роксандра Илинчич (интервью с ней читайте на странице 107), окончившая, как и Кейн, Центральный колледж искусства и дизайна имени святого Мартина. С этого года она собирается продавать свою неподражаемую, яркую, женственную одежду на Mount Street. Лондон может гордиться тем, что преодолев былую инертность, теперь он открывает молодых дизайнеров, необыкновенный талант которых позволяет им содержать флагманские магазины в шестом по дороговизне городе мира. На Dover Street в апреле 2014 года появится первый магазин Виктории Бэкхем. Бывшая участница Spice Girls работает над собственной маркой с 2009 года и уже успела завоевать признание модной элиты. Мягкие силуэты платьев, минималистская отделка, вкрапления контрастных цветов – все это явно пришлось по душе искушенной публике. Диффузная линия Victoria by Victoria Beckham предназначена для создания более эксцентричного образа, поскольку ей присущи эклектичные принты и более свободны формы. Предполагается, что вещи обоих лейблов будут продаваться под одной крышей, весьма изысканной, кстати.
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Очевидно, что Бэкхем не просто звезда, увлекающаяся искусством, а серьезный действующий игрок модной сцены Лондона. Многочисленные поклонники, среди которых Beyoncé, Кэмерон Диас и Жизель Бюндхен, отличному тому подтверждение. Новые обитатели Мейфэра попадают в звездную компанию. В конце прошлого года в этом престижном районе появился магазин Тома Форда. Выбрав именно Лондон для своего флагманского магазина женской одежды, он закрепил статус британской столицы как самого заманчивого шоппинг-направления в мире, – настолько существенным является этот знак признания. Архитектор Уильям Софилд создал тщательно проработанный и чистый по концепции бутик, что полностью соответствует собственному стилю Тома Форда: интерьер из стали выполнен полностью в черно-белой гамме. éсли вы не готовы приобретать весьма остроумные и яркие платья Форда, то обратите внимание на парфюм, выпущенный к открытию магазина - Private Blend London. roksandailincic.com, victoriabeckham.com, tomford.com
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64: The Rise Of Roksanda
Триумф Роксанды
Дизайнер Роксанда Илинчич, собирающаяся открыть свой первый бутик в Мэйфейр, делится с Фрэнсис Васим своими планами и подробностями блистательной карьеры éсли бы об успехе дизайнера можно было судить по тому, какие знаменитости носят его платья, или по количеству красных ковровых дорожек, которые его наряды увидели, то можно с уверенностью утверждать, что Роксанда Илинчич занимает твердую позицию на пьедестале британской моды. Женственные и изысканные наряды Илинчич стали хитом среди многих известных знаменитостей, включая Мишель Обаму, Саманту Кэмерон, Кейт Миддлтон, Киру Найтли, Гвинет Пэлтроу и Леди Гагу. Не удивительно, что Илинчич стала обладательницей почетной премии Red Carpet Award 2012, вручаемой на церемонии British Fashion Awards. Накануне открытия своего первого флагманского магазина Илинчич поделилась с журналистами видением своей основной миссии. «Я хочу, чтобы платье импонировало женственности моих клиенток, создавая при этом ореол загадочности и мистерии. Мне нравится экспериментировать с формами, объемом и цветом. Каждый сезон я пытаюсь бросить себе новый вызов и это доставляет мне удовольствие», – говорит стройная брюнетка с характерным сербским акцентом. Илинчич обладает необыкновенным шармом и талантом. После переезда в Лондон в 1999 году ей пришлось проделать сложный карьерный путь. В 2000 году она, как и многие начинающие дизайнеры, закончила лондонский колледж Central St Martins со специализацией на женской одежде. Свою первую коллекцию дизайнер выпустила в 2002 году, а ее первый показ на Лондонской Неделе моды состоялся в 2005, в рамках программы Topshop New Generation. В 2006 дизайнер была номинирована на премию New Designer award, вручаемую Британским Советом Моды, а в 2009 –
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представила публике свою весенне-летнюю коллекцию. Примечательно, что среди поклонниц творчества дизайнера немало знаменитых кинозвезд, для которых платье является важной частью образа. «Когда женщина одевает одно из моих платьев мне хочется, чтобы она чувствовала себя уверенно и комфортно», – говорит Илинчич. Коллаборации с такими марками, как Whistles и Debenhams, помогли донести художественные формы дизайнера до широкой общественности. Илинчич стала ключевым участником британского сообщества талантливых дизайнеров, куда входят Эрдем и Роланд Муре, а также Мэри Катранзу. Никто из этих дизайнеров не родился в Британии, однако их элегантные, современные и смелые работы как нельзя лучше выражают уникальный английский стиль и находят своих поклонников далеко за пределами Великобритании. По мнению Илинчич Лондон представляет собой неповторимый дизайнерский центр: «Лондонская культура допускает неограниченную свободу деятельности, что является
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ключевым фактором для креативности. Каждый день вы встречаете здесь все новых и новых людей самых различных профессий, и, мне кажется, это и делает жизнь такой увлекательной. Это позволяет лондонским дизайнерам развивать свои собственные идеи и эстетику, не чувствуя при этом никаких ограничений», – говорит она. Не сказать чтобы дизайнер предпочитала жить лишь в одном месте. Работа заставила ее переехать из Балкан в Англию, и ее дизайнерские творения лишь выиграли от этого: «Я постоянно черпаю вдохновение в тех местах, куда я путешествую. Прошлый год был просто фантастическим и мне удалось побывать в самых разных местах, включая Гонконг, Сингапур, Австралию и Дубаи». Работая над весенне-летней коллекцией дизайнер тщательно изучала работы бразильского художника Элио Ойтисика, поразившего ее своим «бескомпромиссным использованием цвета». Жизнь Илинчич довольно интенсивна, и 2014 год обещает быть для нее успешнее предыдущих. Помимо насыщенной
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семейной жизни (у нее есть муж Филип и маленькая дочь Эфимия, вдохновившая ее на создание детской линии одежды Blossom) она постоянно работает над поддержанием свежего образа своих коллекций: «Я люблю экспериментировать с формой, объемом и цветом – каждый сезон я ставлю себе новые и новые задачи и их решение доставляет мне несказанное удовольствие». В этом году дизайнер открывает свой первый флагманский магазин в Лондоне на улице Mount Street (читайте также нашу статью о районе Мэйфейр на странице 105), а это значит, что она также обладает неплохим талантом бизнес-леди – иметь свой магазин на одной из самых престижных улиц Лондона достижение не из легких, учитывая что ее бренд не имеет никаких спонсоров. Все чего удалось добиться дизайнеру стало результатом тяжелого и кропотливого труда. «Мы очень рады, что наш бренд обретет свой дом в шикарном районе Мэйфейр и мы не можем дождаться того момента, когда представим всем наш концепт», – говорит Илинчич. В феврале 2015 ожидается показ весенне-зимней коллекции дизайнера в рамках показов Лондонской Недели моды. Очевидно, что столица Британии представляет для Илинчич неисчерпаемый источник вдохновения. «В Лондоне наблюдается удивительная динамика среди многих направлений, включая музыку, моду и искусство. Когда у меня выпадает свободное время я предпочитаю гулять по городу и заниматься шоппингом в районе Columbia Road market и Camden Passage рядом с Islington. Я без ума от Лондона. Это оживленный, творческий и теплый город», – говорит дизайнер. Интерес Илинчич к моде пробудила в ней ее мать, – статная красавица, которая любит много путешествовать и посещать бутики Yves Saint Laurent в Париже. «Когда я была еще ребенком, я любила наблюдать за тем, как она одевается и подбирает одежду. Однажды я укоротила одну из ее юбок Yves Saint Laurent, чтобы одеть ее на себя – не могу поверить, что я это сделала. Не представляю, как ей удалось меня простить», –
рассказывает дизайнер. В следующем году исполняется 15 лет с тех пор, как Илинчич стала заниматься дизайнерским ремеслом и переехала в Лондон. Мы решили спросить, что бы она могла посоветовать молодым начинающим дизайнерам, на что она ответила: «Это кажется очевидным, нужно просто пробовать и самое главное верить в себя». В этом с ней сложно не согласиться. roksandailincic.com 100: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30-£50 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.
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美文翻译
52: Hats Of 脱帽致敬 制帽行业与戴帽风俗时下都在悄然复兴，尤其是 在伦敦。Josh Sims 在此向城中新晋制帽天才脱 帽致敬
Justin Smith在投身制帽业之前的职业让人大跌
PHOTO: KEVIN DAVIES
眼镜：他是一名发型师。要知道，谁愿意将一个好 发型遮掩起来？“我当时从事的是位于潮流尖端的 发型设计，很多造型都有如雕塑一般，所以我想去 学习制帽来更好地掌握分量与比例， ”Smith 表示， 他的品牌叫做 J Smith Esquire。然而他并未止步 于此。皇家艺术学院的学习生涯催生了他的个人产 品线，他还与Stella McCartney、Moschino等品 牌推出合作系列，而且为电影和戏剧设计道具。 “不过那时候我自己真的非常热衷于戴帽子， ”他 补充道。 在六十年前，离开家门不戴帽子会被认作举止不 当，但随着衣着潮流的变化这一论断已然过时。然 而如今人们对于帽子的爱好再度升温，尤其是在伦 敦，这里仍延续着独特的制帽传统，原因是每年春
天英国贵族们仍在庆祝着“社交季”。社交人群们 出现在 Ascot 赛马会，出现在戈林德伯恩歌剧节， 以及介于两者之间的所有场合——走到哪里都需 要一顶帽子。并且根据Smith的观察， “包括从剑桥 公爵夫人到Lady Gaga的所有人，都在着装上变 得更出位。” “人们越发热衷于张扬个性， ”Smith 表示，他的作 品或许可被称为可佩戴的艺术品。 “佩戴帽饰在时 尚界与音乐圈变得更为广而接纳——帽饰在配饰 市场中的地位也不断向前靠拢，虽然乐于花2000 英镑购买手提包的人们，多数仍不愿意花同样的钱 定制一顶帽子。”Smith的定制帽品起价500 英镑， 如需定制一顶重工串珠的化装舞会帽，费用则可能 会攀至3000 英镑。 以从远古至近代的深厚积淀为根基，伦敦制帽业的 产量正在节节攀升。毕竟，这座城市孕育了圆顶高 帽的发明者Lock & Co Hatters，以巴拿马帽闻名 的Christys’ ，还有伦敦最古老的帽店之一Bates。自 贝雷帽受到Mary Quant，披头士等人的青睐，风 靡伦敦的Carnaby Street街头起，Kangol 就一直 是行业领先的制帽商。更近一些，还有明星制帽师 Stephen Jones与Philip Treacy引领的帽饰复兴。 正如 Treacy指出， “不少人有这样的想法，佩带帽子 或多或少会让人变得滑稽。过去戴帽子是为了遵从 习俗。但如今戴帽子是为了反叛。”
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Smith眼中的现代摩登品牌，还包括常驻伦敦的制 帽师 Nasir Mazhar，他与制帽师 Jane Smith一同 受训，曾与Viktor & Rolf与 Thierry Mugler 等品
58: The Magic Of Mayfair Mayfair的慑人魔力
牌合作推出系列，他的遮阳帽与箱型鸭舌帽——一 款对于同样流行的棒球帽的改良设计，使他在东伦 敦的前卫时尚追随者中享有盛名。Piers Atkinson 是戏剧制帽师 Hilary Elliott 的儿子，他从父亲那 里学习了制帽工艺，并在2008年发布了首个系列， 赢得了Kate Moss，Rihanna与Lady Gaga等一 众明星顾客的青睐。Philip Wright则在伦敦时尚 学院受训后，通过自己的设计，将1889年成立于 Luton的家族品牌Walter Wright带回潮流舞台。 Wright 认为，帽饰的复兴源于定制商与高街零售 连锁巨头所贩售的千篇一律、质量低劣的同质化产 品之间的抗争。这也带来了真正的挑战：说服人们 去试戴一顶帽子。 “必须要让人们亲眼看到，自己 能将帽子戴得好看，因为多数人私底下都不这么认 为——需要为顾客打造让其感觉良好的初体验， ” 他说。 “在伦敦你就可以做到这点——这里有颇具 鉴赏力的受众。” “在伦敦自然可以找到非常不错的制帽课程，几 乎我认识的所有制帽师都在伦敦授课， ”来自伦敦 另一主要帽商 House of Flora的Flora McLean 表示。McLean在皇家艺术学院受训。她几何化、 棱角分明的设计，常使用令人意想不到的材料制 作——高光彩色塑料是她的最爱——能最大限度 地维持头饰的雕塑感，而最重要的或许是，能为 作品注入大量的卡通幽默元素。譬如她设计的猫 王帽，既是一顶帽子也是一顶附带两鬓胡须的黑 色飞机头饰；而她的最新作品，接近纯白的2014 春/夏乒乓系列，则从温布尔顿网球博物馆之行中 得到启发，系列中包括用网眼布、亚麻与绳索制作 的单品。 “近年来，国际学生大量涌入伦敦学习制帽，也让 制帽业变得格外生机勃发。”她补充道。 “他们在此 茁壮成长，因为伦敦有着海纳百川、包容不同文化 与自我表达方式的胸襟。最有趣的帽子都是不实用 的——它们是一种展现自我的方式，是为了建立自 己的信心。如果你想表达些什么却如鲠在喉，那就 戴一顶帽子来表明态度！” jsmithesquire.com, lockhatters.co.uk, christys-hats.com, bates-hats.co.uk, kangol.com, stephenjonesmillinery.com, philiptreacy.co.uk, nasirmazhar.com, piersatkinson.com, philipwrighthats.co.uk, houseofora.net
伦敦尊贵街区Mayfair在今春迎来不少大有来头的 入驻者。Stephen Doig与您分享私家地址簿 在本季，时尚为Mayfair 的古老街道打入一剂强心 针。Mayfair 素来是光耀大牌云集之所，今春开幕 的一批店铺更是巩固了其伦敦时尚中心的地位。近 年来，Mayfair面临着严酷的竞争——无论是以潮 流天堂之姿崛起的东伦敦（大量报道指出Prada与 Ralph Lauren 都将在那里开设店铺），还是悄无 声息掌控主导地位的西伦敦。然而通过引进诸多享 誉国际的品牌与英国本土新晋势力，Mayfair巧妙 力证，自己仍屹立于奢侈品零售的中心腹地。 “对我们而言这是一个超越想象、鼓舞人心的时 刻， ”伦敦时装周巨星 C h r istopher K a ne ，与他 的妹妹、担任品牌创意副总监的 Ta m my K a ne 表 示 :“ 拥 有自己的 零售 空 间 赋 予 我 们 展 示自身 作品、诉 说设 计 理 念的机会。在伦敦开设首家店 铺 对 我 们 意 义 非凡，皆因 这 里 是 品 牌 的 发 源 之 地。”Christopher Kane 被广泛公认为伦敦最具 远见的创意英才之一，他将于今春 在 M ay fa i r 的 Mount Street 开设自己的旗舰店。这一举动的重 大意义，还体现在法国奢侈品巨鳄 PPR集团，对于 这位年轻苏格兰设计师拓展事业版图的支持，这是 伦敦本地培养的设计师的最佳成功范例；需知他在 2007年刚发布了自己的同名品牌。 此 举亦 巩固了 M o u n t S t r e e t 作为 M a y f a i r 区 最 负 盛名 街 道 的头 衔；这 条 街 曾 是 颇 为 保 守 的 M ay fa i r 中部庞大分支路中的一条（一些传统品 牌仍悄然寄居于此），如今已转变为电力十足的时 尚现场，附近拢聚了Lanvin，Balenciaga，Marc Jacobs，Roland Mouret 与Oscar de la Renta 等品牌。而 Roksanda Ilincic（详见本刊 p112 对 她的专题采访）也将跟随 Kane 的脚步，于2014 年 初在此设店。与Kane 相同，Roksanda Ilincic 也 是中央 圣马丁 艺术与设计学院的毕业生，她将为 Mount Street带来熠熠流动、洋溢女性气息、色彩 缤纷的女装系列。此举如同为伦敦时尚之冠插上一 束羽毛，这座城市曾被视为了无生趣的一潭死水， 现今却孕育出这批荣耀加身的年轻设计师，有能力 在世界第六昂贵的城市中开设旗舰店。 继续向南来到Mayfair区的Dover Street，另一位 英国设计师 Victoria Beckham 将于2014 年 4月， 在此揭幕自有品牌的首家专营店。自20 09 年发布 自有品牌后，这位前辣妹成员通过突出流线廓型、 极简细 节与电光撞色的设 计系列，获得了一众 时 尚精英的首肯。品牌衍生线Victoria by Victoria Beckham，则为更具想象力的女性设计，运用了光
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64: The Rise Of Roksanda Roksanda青云直上 设计师 Roksanda Ilincic正为地处 Mayfair的首家 门店开幕做准备，她与Frances Wasem分享了自己 的灵感来源，以及她在伦敦备受瞩目的事业发展 如果以作品被多少创造历史的名女人穿着、或是多 少次出现在镁光灯下的红地毯上，作为衡量一名时 装设计师是否成功的标准，那么Roksanda Ilincic 无疑能在英国时尚浩瀚苍穹中确保一席之 地。从 Michelle Obama 到Samantha Cameron，Kate M id d l e t o n 到 K e i r a K n i g ht l e y，G w y n e t h Paltrow到Lady Gaga，Ilincic充满女人味与知性 优雅的设计，成为一众精英的首选。无怪乎Ilincic在 2012年英国时尚大奖中斩获红地毯大奖。在首家旗 舰店揭幕前夕，谦逊的Ilincic对于自己的设计使命， 自始至终保持着不懈的热情。 “我想让服装激发起 穿着者的女性意识、神秘感与想象力。我喜欢不断 实验不同的形状、形式与色彩。每一季我都努力为自 己创造新的挑战，这就是我喜欢服装设计的原因。” 这位秀发婀娜的棕发女郎以轻微的塞尔维亚口音说 道。
PHOTO: ELLIOTT NEEP
怪陆离的印花与更为柔软的廓型；这两个品牌 将 被同时展示于店铺精心装饰的屋檐下。这家店铺的 开幕也进一步表明Beckham不只是玩票的跨界明 星，而是在时尚界掷地有声的名字；品牌的拥戴者 Beyoncé，Cameron Diaz与Gisele Bündchen都 纷纷挺身力证此点。 Mayfair 的新住户们无不是冉冉升起的新星。为此 锦上添花的还有 Tom Ford，他于去年年底从一众 城市中选择伦敦作为女装旗舰店的所在地，这是 对这座英国首都的至高首肯，更奠定了其作为世界 最具吸引力的购物城市的地位。这家运用纯色与反 光钢材装饰的店铺由William Sofield 设计，延续 了设计师一贯的精良工艺与质朴风 格。即便您无 法驾驭 Tom Ford 冲击力十足、色彩满溢的裙装系 列，也不妨选购一瓶为新开业伦敦店特别调制的香 水：Private Blend London。 roksandailincic .com , victoriabeckham.com , tomford .com
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Ilincic同时拥有魅力与才华。自1999年来到伦敦， 她已走过了漫长的道路，20 0 0 年，她在中央圣马 丁艺术与设计学院获得了女装设计硕士学位。又在 2002 年推出了自己的同名系列，并在 2005 年获得 Topshop New Generation 项目的支持，在伦敦 时装周上首次发表自己的作品。在 20 0 6 年，她被 英国时装理事会提名新晋设计师奖——在 2009 年 春/夏，她终于发布了正式的个人时装秀。红毯明星 们被其品牌细腻优雅的风格吸引，纷至沓来向设计 师邀约，这无疑是了不起的成就，全因这些权利女性 们从不允许自己被服装所驾驭。 “当女人们穿上我设 计的衣服，我希望她们感到自信与舒适。”Ilincic表 示。与Whistles以及 Debenhams共同推出的合作 系列与衍生线，则将设计师充满立体感的设计介绍 给更广泛的受众市场。 Ilincic俨然已成为包括Erdem，Roland Mouret与 Mary Katrantzou等人在内，备受推崇的英国设计 人才库中的重要一员。 这 些 设 计 师 无 一 出 生在 英 国，但 他 们 的 设 计 美 学——优雅、当代与略带前卫——是独一无二的英 国风格。 这些设计师们也都享有着国际声誉。为何 Ilincic认为伦敦是自成一派的设计枢纽？“伦敦的文 化赋予人们诸多自由，我认为这就是创造力的关键。 每天都可以遇到来自社会不同阶层的人，让我感到 非常兴奋。这种自由风气让伦敦的设计师们可以摆 脱约束，大胆探索自己的理念与美学观点。”她说。 但这并不代表她不曾将慧眼投向海外；她的设计事 业将她从巴尔干地区带到英国，她也在无数次旅行 中锻造着自己的设计审美。 “我不停地从走过的地 方汲取灵感；去年让我感觉很棒，因为我去了香港、 新加坡、澳大利亚与迪拜。”对于接下来的春/夏季 系列，她表示要去研究巴西艺术家Hélio Oiticica如 何“不拘一格地运用色彩”。 Ilincic 的生活节奏从未放缓，2014 年看似又将是 辉煌的一年。这位努力平衡着家庭生活（包括丈夫 Philip和小女儿 Efmia，正是她激发设计师在2012 年推出儿童线 Blossom）的女性，一直致力于呈现 充满新鲜感的作品。 “我热爱试验不同的形状、形式 与色彩——每一季我都努力为自己创造新的挑战， 这就是我喜欢服装设计的原因。”今年设计师在伦 敦 Mount Street 上开设了首家旗舰店（详见本刊第 111页Mayfair 专题报道），这是标志着她在商业上 的成功：在伦敦最负盛名的地段开设旗舰店，堪称 重大成就。更令人肃然起敬的，是她的品牌不被任 何母公司所控股— —是设计师的辛勤耕耘才让这 一切得以实现。 “我们为品牌在 Mayfair 找到了一 个家而欣喜万分，我已急不可耐要揭幕这家概念店 铺， ”Ilincic说。 最后，她还将在二月的伦敦时装周上，发布自己的 2014/15 年秋/冬系列。这座城市对Ilincic而言，
显 然是无 尽遐想的来源。“伦敦有着 让 人赞叹的 活力，那么多音乐、时尚与艺 术领 域 的天 才们汇 聚于此。我在空闲的时候，最喜欢在城中散步，去 Columbia Road市场购物，或是徜徉于Islington的 Camden Passage。我无比热爱伦敦。这是一座繁 忙、充满创造力与温暖的城市， ”设计师表示。她对于 时尚的兴趣来源于母亲，一位走过世界许多地方的 修长美女，她会从巴黎的Yves Saint Laurent带回 华丽的单品。 “当我还是孩子的时候最喜欢看她换 衣服，欣赏她的优雅触觉。有一次，我将她的Yves Saint Laurent裙子减短一截——回头想想简直不 敢相信。我不知道当时她是怎样原谅我的。” 明年将是 Ilincic 迈入时尚行业、亦是定居伦敦的里 程碑般的15周年纪念。她会给今天设计界的起步者 们怎样的建议呢？“这是显而易见的，就是去不断尝 试，而最重要的，是要相信自己。”看来 Ilincic 的信 仰也会得到许多人的认同。 roksandailincic.com
100: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：
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taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费£30 -£50并且节约高达购买价格11%的税。 请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除 管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将 以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。
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أساس للبتكار .تلتقي يوميّاً بأشخاص من خلفيّات متعدّدة وذلك مث ٌي للهتمم. المر الذي يتيح للمص ّممي القيمي ف لندن استكشاف أفكارهم وأساليبهم من دون أي قيود ”.هذا ل يعني أنّها ل تنظر بعي النس إل البلدان الخرى؛ نقلها عملها من البلقان إل الملكة التّحدة وتستوحي أسلوبها من أسفارها التعدّدة“ .أستوحي باستمرار من الماكن التي أسافر إليها؛ كانت السنة الفائتة رائعة إذ سافرت إل هونغ كونغ وسنغافورة وأستاليا ودب ”.تضيف أنّها تحضيا ً لجموعتها للربيع/الصيف، اطّلعت عل عمل الف ّنان البازيل Hélio Oiticicaالميّز بـ “استخدام اللوان بتشبّث”. الوقت ي ّر بسعة بالنسبة إل Ilincicويبدو أ ّن سنة 2014ستكون سنة مميّزة أخرى .بالضافة إل حياتها السيّة (متز ّوجة من رجل يُدعى Philipولديهم طفلة اسمها ،Efmiaألهمتها بإطلق خ ّط خاص بالطفال ،Blossom ،سنة )2012تسعى دوماً إل إبقاء الحيويّة ف مجموعتها “ .أستمتع باختبار الشكال أحب واللوان .أحاول كل موسم أن أجد تحدّيات جديدة أواجهها ولهذا السبب ّ التصميم ”.تفتح الص ّممة هذه السنة متجرها الرئيس ال ّول ف شارع Mount ف لندن (انظر القالة عن Mayfairصفحة ،)116المر الذي يشي إل أنّها س ّيدة أعمل رائعة أيضاً .فامتلك متجر رئيس ف أحد أرقى شوارع لندن إنجا ٌز حقيقي ومميّز إذ أ ّن علمتها التجاريّة ليست ملك شكة أ ّم؛ حقّقت كل ذلك من خلل عزمها وعملها بجهد .تقول Ilincicف هذا الصدد“ :إنّنا مسورون ليجاد موطن للعلمة ف Mayfairومتح ّمسون لتقديم فكرتنا”. وأخيا ً ،ستعرض مجموعاتها لخريف/شتاء 2014/2015كجزء من أسبوع لندن إعجاب دائم بالنسبة إل للموضة ف شباط/فباير .من الواضح أ ّن الدينة مصدر ٍ .Ilincicتعلّق الص ّممة قائلة“ :لدينا ف لندن حيويّة مذهلة متمثّلة بواهب أحب التج ّول ف ف مجالت الوسيقى والزياء والفن .عندما تتس ّنى ل الفرصةّ ، الدينة والتس ّوق ف سوق Columbia RoadوCamden Passage أحب لندن كثيا ً .إنّها مدينة ناشطة ومبتكرة ودافئة ”.تولّد ف ّ .Islington لديها اهتمم بالوضة بفضل والدتها الفائقة الجمل التي كانت تسافر كثيا ً وتختار قطعاً فاخرة من Yves Saint Laurenف باريس“ .عندما كنت طفلة، قصيت م ّر ًة إحدى تنانيها من أحببت كثيا ً مشاهدتها ترتدي ،كانت أنيقة بامتيازّ . لقصها ،ل يكنني تصديق ذلك الن .ل أعرف إن ّ Yves Saint Laurent سامحتني ”.تكمل Ilincicالسنة القبلة عامها الـ 15ف مجال الزياء وف لندن بالتحديد .فمذا تنصح الص ّمم البتدئ اليوم؟ “عليك أن تحاول تحقيق الفضل عل الدوام واله ّم أن تثق بنفسك ”.يبدو أ ّن كثيين يؤمنون برؤية .Ilincic roksandailincic.com
When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free :100 عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فلم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل َ غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص بغلوبل بلو أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب خدمة الزبائن الخاصة بنا. ّ للتّصال: taxfree@globalblue.com 111 111 232 +421 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره £30-£50وادّخر حتّى 11%من ثن مشتياتك .يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري . .ف بعض نقاط الستداد ،يُفرض رسم إضاف محدّد عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
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الرأة وكذلك غموضها ومخيّلتها .أستمتع باختبار الشكال واللوان .أحاول كل موسم أحب عمل”. أن أجد تحدّيات جديدة أواجهها ولهذا السبب ّ تتمتّع Ilincicبالتألّق والوهبة .حقّقت الكثي منذ انتقالها إل لندن سنة 1999وتخ ّرجت من Central St Martins College of Arts and Designسنة 2000بشهادة ماجستي ف تصميم اللبس النسائيّة. أطلقت مجموعاتها التي تحمل إسمها سنة 2002وعرضتها للم ّرة الول ف أسبوع لندن للموضة سنة 2005بدعم من برنامج Topshop New ُ .Generationرشّ حت سنة 2006لجائزة New Designerمن British Fashion Councilوأقامت عرض أزيائها الرسمي ف ربيع/صيف .2009ومن الثي للهتمم أ ّن نجمت الس ّجادة الحمراء اللّوات لجأن إل الص ّممة
إعجاباً بعلمتها التجاريّة الميّزة بالناقة الناعمة ،هن نساء قويّات ل يسمحن للثوب أبدا ً أن يتحكّم بهن .تقول Ilincicف هذا الصدد“ :أو ّد أن تشعر الرأة بالثقة والراحة عندما ترتدي تصاميمي ”.نتيجة إطلق خطوط ثانويّة بأسعار مخفّضة والتعاون مع علمة Whistlesومتجر ،Debenhamsوصلت تصاميمها البتكرة إل سوقٍ أوسع. باتت Ilincicفردا ً رئيس ّياً من مجموعة مواهب بريطان ّية محتمة مثل Erdem و Roland Mouretو .Mary Katrantzouل يولد أي من هؤلء الص ّممي ف بريطانيا ،لكن أسلوبهم النيق والعاص والجريء بعض الشء بريطان بجدارة .وجميعهم مشهورون عاليّاً .لَ تعتقد Ilincicأ ّن بريطانيا معقل تصميم فريد من نوعه؟ تجيب قائلة“ :تنح الثقافة ف لندن الكثي من الحريّة وهذا برأيي
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ُمتقن ونض كابتكارات الص ّمم ويتميّز بلونه الحادي والفولذ اللمع .للّوات ل يكنهن شاء إحدى فساتي Fordالنابضة بالحيويّة واللوان ،يكنهن أخذ العطر الص ّمم للحتفال بإطلق متجر لندن.Private Blend London : roksandailincic.com, victoriabeckham.com, tomford.com
The Magic Of Mayfair :58 سحر Mayfair
PHOTO: PIXeLFOrMULa/sIPa/reX
تر ّحب منطقة Mayfairالراقية ف لندن ببعض التاجر الجديدة هذا الربيع. يطلعنا Stephen Doigعل أبرزها شوارع Mayfairالتاريخيّة جاهزة لحقنة من أدرينالي الزياء هذا الوسم. لطالا جذبت النطقة العلمات التجاريّة الكبى الفاخرة وتأت مجموعة التاجر التي ستفتح هذا الربيع لتؤكّد مجدّدا ً أ ّن Mayfairمركز عال الزياء ف لندن .شهدت ف السنوات الخية منافسة حقيقيّة مع بروز لندن الشقيّة كمعقل للموضة (ذكرت الكثي من التقارير أ ّن Pradaو Ralph Laurenحاضتان لفتتاح متاجر هناك) وسيطرة لندن الغربيّة التزايدة .لكن تبهن Mayfairعن جدارة انّها ل زالت ف قلب عال الفخامة من خلل إطلق أسمء عال ّية ونجوم بريطان ّية عل ح ّد سواء. يقول نجم أسبوع لندن للموضة Christopher Kaneوشقيقته نائب مديرة البتكار الف ّني لدى العلمة التجاريّة “ :Tammy Kaneهذه مرحلة مثية خاصة بنا ،يكننا عرض مجموعاتنا والتعبي بصاحة للهتمم بالنسبة لنا .بوجود متاجر ّ عن رؤيتنا .كان من الهم ج ّدا ً افتتاح متجر لنا ف لندن أ ّولً إذ إنّها الدينة التي ُولدت فيها العلمة ”.يُعتب Christopher Kaneأحد أبرز البتكرين ف لندن وسيطلق متجره الرئيس ف شارع Mountف Mayfairهذا الربيع .تأت هذه الخطوة بعد دعم الجموعة الفرنس ّية الفاخرة PPRالص ّمم السكتلندي الشاب وتحظى بأهميّة كبى إذ تظهر النجاح الذي يكن أن تحقّقه موهبة أبصت النور أن الص ّمم ل يطلق علمته التي تحمل إسمه إل سنة ف لندن ف مجال الزياء؛ علمً ّ .2007 كم تك ّرس هذه الخطوة مكانة شارع Mountكأفخر موقع ف Mayfair؛ كان امتدادا ً قدياً متحفّظاً لوسط ( Mayfairما زالت بعض العلمات التجاريّة التقليديّة هناك) وبات الن مساحة أزياء نابضة بالحياة نتيجة وجود علمات Lanvinو Balenciagaو Marc Jacobsو Roland MouretوOscar de la Rentaف الجوار .ستشهد سنة 2014خطوة ممثلة لخطوة Kane تقوم بها إحدى أبزر مص ّممت أسبوع لندن للموضة Roksanda Ilincic (أنظر لقاءنا بها صفحة .)116عل غرار ،Kaneتخ ّرجت Ilincicمن Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design ف لندن وأدخلت ملبس النساء الفضفاضة النثويّة الغن ّية باللوان إل Mount أن الدينة التي كانت ف حالة ركود تولّد اليوم مص ّممي شباباً .Streetإنّه لفخر ّ يتمتّعون بالشهرة التي تخ ّولهم فتح متاجر رئيس ّية ف الدينة السادسة ف العال من حيث الغلء. بالتّجاه جنوباً نحو شارع Dover Streetف ،Mayfairستفتح مص ّممة بريطانيّة أخرى ت ُدعى Victoria Beckhamأ ّول متجر لعلمتها التجاريّة ف نيسان/أبريل .2014منذ إطلق علمتها سنة ،2009لفتت الص ّممة التي كانت عضو سابق ف فرقة Spice Girlsانتباه محبّ ي الزياءمن خلل مجموعات تركّز الطعمة بألوان صارخة .أ ّما خطّها الثانوي الخفّض عل الفساتي النسدلة البسيطة ّ السعار ،Victoria by Victoria Beckham ،فيستهدف الرأة الح ّبة للتغيي من خلل نقوش مم ّيزة وتصاميم ناعمة .من الر ّجح أن يض ّم التجر تحت سقفه (الل ّّمع) العلمتي .المر الذي يؤكّد أ ّن Beckhamاليوم من بي السمء البارزة ف عال الزياء وليست مج ّرد شخص ّية مشهورة تتخ ّبط ف الجال؛ وخي دليل عل ذلك هن زبوناتها Beyoncéو Cameron DiazوGisele .Bündchen تندرج السمء القادمة إل Mayfairتحت عنوان الشكات الميّزة .كان Tom Fordمن أواخر القادمي ف نهاية السنة الفائتة وقد ع ّزز موقع العاصمة البيطان ّية كأكث وجهات التس ّوق إثارة ف العال عندما فضّ لها عل أي مدينة أخرى ليطلق متجره الرئيس للملبس النسائ ّية .التجر من تصميم الهندس William Sofeldوهو
The Rise Of Roksanda :64 مسية Roksanda تحض الص ّممة Roksanda Ilincicلفتتاح متجرها ال ّول ف Mayfair ّ وتطلع Frances Wasemعل مصادر إلهامها وعملها الباهر ف لندن إن كان نجاح مص ّمم الزياء يُقاس بفساتينه التي ترتديها النساء اللوات يصنعن التاريخ أو يتألّقن عل الس ّجادة الحمراء ،فل ّ شك أنّه لكان مكان Roksanda Ilincicمحفوظاً ف دائرة الواهب البيطانيّة ف مجال الزياء .باتت تصاميم Ilincicالنثويّة الذكيّة الخيار ال ّول لنخبة النخبة مثل Michelle Obamaو Samantha Cameronو Kate Middletonو Keira Knightleyو Gwyneth Paltrowو.Lady Gaga لذا ل عجب أن حازت Ilincicجائزة الس ّجادة الحمراء Red Carpet Awardف حفل جوائز الزياء البيطان ّية سنة .2012كانت الص ّممة عش ّية إطلق متجرها الرئيس ال ّول ،متح ّمسة كالعادة بشأن مسيتها الهنيّة .تقول Ilincicالسمراء الطويلة بلكنتها الصب ّية الم ّيزة“ :أو ّد أن يجذب الفستان أنوثة globalblue.com
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ةّيبرعلا ةغللاب ةمجرت
Hats Of :52 تحيّة إل صانعي الق ّبعات
PHOTO: LOrenzO DaLbOscO
يشهد قطاع صناعة القبعات واعتمرها ازدهارا ً وبخاصة ف لندن .يو ّجه Josh Simsتحية إجلل للمواهب الجديدة ف مجال صناعة القبعات النسائية ف الدينة. انتهى الطاف بـ Justin Smithف عال القبعات من خلل إحدى الطرق القل توقعاً ،أل وهي تصفيف الشعر .ففي النهاية ،من قد يرغب بتغطية تسيحة شعر رائعة؟ يقول Smithالعروف ف السوق باسم “ :J Smith Esquireكنت أعمل ف تصاميم الشعر البتكرة والكثي من ذلك كان بثابة النحت ،فق ّررت دراسة ِ يكتف بذلك ،بل تابع صناعة القبعات النسائية لتعلّم الزيد عن الوزان والنسب ”.ل دراسته ف كلية الفنون اللكية ف لندن وتكّن من ابتكار خطّه الخاص من خلل التعاون مع مص ّممي أمثال Stella McCartneyو ،Moschinoبالضافة إل تصميم قبّعات لفلم ومسحيّات .يوضّ ح Smithقائلً“ :لكنني لطالا كنت من مح ّبي اعتمر الق ّبعة”. منذ ستي عاماً ،كان من غي اللئق أن يغادر الشخص منزله من دون اعتمر قبّعة ،إل أنه سعان ما بات هذا التقليد ف عداد الطراز القديم بفعل التغيي الذي طرأ عل عال الزياء .أما اليوم ،فيشهد عال القبعات الزيد من القبال ف مدينة لندن بالتحديد حيث يتكّز تقليد صناعة قبعات نسائية فريد من نوعه .يعود ذلك بشكل خاص إل احتفال الطبقة الرستقراطية ف لندن “بوسم القبعات” ف فصل الربيع .يشهد ذلك الفصل بالتحديد سباق الخيل ف Ascotومهرجان الوبرا ف Glyndebourne وكل ما يحدث بينهم من مناسبات تستدعي اعتمر قبّعة .يشي Smithكذلك إل أن “الجميع ابتدا ًء من دوقة كامبيدج وصولً إل ”Lady Gagaقد اعتمرن قبّعات مثية للهتمم. ف السياق نفسه ،يوضّ ح Smithالذي ت ُعتب ق ّبعاته أشبه بالتحف الفن ّية قائلً: “يزداد اهتمم الناس اليوم بالتعبي عن فرادتهم .أصبح اعتمر القبعات مقبو ًل اليوم أكث مم سبق ف عالي الوضة والوسيقى ،ف حي ارتقت القبعة إل أعل قائة الكسسوارات عل الرغم من أن الفراد الذين ل يانعون بشكل عام دفع مبلغ ألفي جنيه استليني لشاء حقيبة يد ليسوا عل استعداد بعد لدفع البلغ نفسه لقاء قبعة”.
وتجدر الشارة إل أن سعر قبعات Smithالفريدة يبدأ عند 500جنيه استليني وقد يصل إل 3,000جنيه لقاء القطع الط ّرزة بالكامل لحفلت الرقص التنكّرية. يتجه سوق القبعات النسائية إل الزدهار ف لندن مرتكزا ً بشكل جزئ عل قاعدتيه التاريخية والعصية .فتأوي هذه الدينة أمثال Lock & Co Hatters مبتكري القبعات الستديرة ومتجر Christy’sالشهور بصناعة قبعات الباناما وأخيا ً متجر Batesأحد متاجر القبعات القدم ف لندن .تصدّرت شكة Kangolقائة صانعي القبعات منذ لقت تصاميمها إعجاب مص ّممة الزياء Mary Quantوأعضاء فرقة Beatlesور ّواد شارع Carnaby Streetف لندن .وف الونة الخية ،كان صانعو القبعات النسائية أمثال Stephen Jonesو Philip Treacyالوائل ف إعادة إحياء زمن القبعات .يعقّب Treacyقائلً“ :يعتقد الناس أن القبّعة تظهر الشخص مضحكاً. ف الاض ،اعتمر الناس القبعات ليمتثلوا بغيهم ،أما اليوم فيعتمرونها للختلف عن غيهم”. بالحديث عن صانعي القبعات العاصين ،نذكر صانع القبعات ناص مزهر القيم ف لندن والذي تد ّرب مع صانعة القبعات .Jane Smithشارك ناص ف إعداد تصاميم للمص ّممي أمثال Viktor & RolfوThierry Mugler واكتسب سمعة ف صفوف محبّي الوضة الكث جرأة ف شق لندن لصناعته حواف قبعات وقبعات مربعة الحافّة ،ف محاولة لعادة تصميم ق ّبعة كرة القاعدة الجارية للموضة Piers Atkinson .هو ابن صانعة القبّعات السحيّة Hilary Elliottالتي تعلّم منها الهنة وأطلق مجموعته الول سنة 2008جاذباً مجموعة من الزبائن الشاهي ومنهم Kate Mossو RihannaوLady .Gagaأ ّما Philip Wrightوبعد تد ّربه ف London College of ،Fashionط ّور العلمة التجاريّة Walter Wrightالتي ّأسستها العائلة سنة 1889من خلل تصاميمه .يعتقد Wrightأنّه ت ّم إحياء الق ّبعات بفضل صانعي قبّعات بحسب الطلب واجهوا سيطرة القطع الردئية التشابهة لدى الكثي من كبار ت ّجار السوق .المر الذي يلغي التحدّي الحقيقي التمثّل بإقناع الشخص بتجربة الق ّبعة كخطو ٍة أول .يقول ف هذا الصدد“ :علينا أن نظهر للناس أ ّن القبّعة تليق بهم عل عكس ما يعتقدون ولذلك نحن بحاجة إل تجربة أول ج ّيدة .يكننا تحقيق ذلك ف لندن وإيجاد جمهور يق ّدر هذه الخطوة”. تقول Flora McLeanمن House of Floraوهي صانعة ق ّبعات بارزة ف لندن“ :تتوافر ف لندن بعض الدروس الجيّدة ج ّدا ً ف مجال صناعة القبّعات ويكن القول إ ّن معظم صانعي الق ّبعات الذين أعرفهم يعلّمون أيضاً ف لندن. درست McLeanف Royal College of Artوتبتكر تصاميم اللمع فتط ّور تصاميم متعدّدة الشكال من مواد غريبة وأبرزها البلستيك الل ّون ّ حس الفكاهة .قبّعتها Elvisعل سبيل القبّعات والفضل من ذلك أنّها تضفي إليها ّ الثال ،هي ف الواقع ق ّبعة وف الوقت عينه خصلة شعر سوداء كثيفة مع سوالف. أ ّما مجموعتها الجديدة Ping Pongالبيضاء بعظمها لربيع/صيف ،2014 فاستوحتها من زيارة قامت بها إل متحف كرة الضب ف Wimbledon وتشمل قطعاً مصنوعة من البيكيه والكتّان والخيوط. تضيف قائلة“ :شهدت الدينة تدفّق عدد كبي من طلب صناعة الق ّبعات من حول العال ،المر الذي ساهم ف جعل هذا الجال مثيا ً للهتمم ف الونة الخية .يزدهرون هنا نتيجة ترحيب لندن بثقافات مختلفة وتقديها طرق مختلفة للتعبي عن النفس. فغالبيّة القبّعات الميّزة غي عمليّة ،بل طرق للتعبي عن الذات وبناء الثقة بالنفس .إن ل تتمكّن من قول ما تريد ،اعتمر ق ّبعة!” jsmithesquire.com, lockhatters.co.uk, christys-hats.com, bates-hats.co.uk, kangol.com, stephenjonesmillinery.com, philiptreacy.co.uk, nasirmazhar.com, piersatkinson.com, philipwrighthats.co.uk, houseofora.net
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GAME ON Backgammon board designer Alexandra Llewellyn’s latest venture is a collaboration with British womenswear label Temperley London, commissioned by founder Alice Temperley, who shares Llewellyn’s love of timeless pieces re-imagined through contemporary design. The result combines the exquisite craftsmanship of Llewellyn’s team with the modern romance of archive Temperley prints. The laurel burl board is made in England using traditional British joinery and its brass-cased playing pieces are faced with bright orange Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 100
and green stones that match the jewels in the original Temperley designs. The board, which features an intricate foral design alongside its backgammon markings, is designed to be decorative as well as functional, a lovely addition to any home, and a unique and thoughtful gift. hl Temperley backgammon board by Alexandra Llewellyn, £2,700, Temperley London, 27 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QN, +44 (0)20 7229 7957, temperleylondon.com * for map go to page 84
PHOTO: DaviD BrOOk
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