[ THE EDIT ] SPORTS LUXE
Ray Bans £153, John Lewis Weekend tote £69, Superga trainers £50, Tara Jarmon top £159, DKNY cross body clutch £158, See by Chloe wedge trainer £260. Main page: DKNY bag pack £256, French Connection mac £165, Jigsaw bomber £149, Mint Velvet trousers £69, KIN sandals £65.
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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus ILLUSTRATION: pAUL x jOhNSON
Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا 德国指南
Руководство Германия
Welcome to London This SHOP guide will help you discover all that London has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile app is another great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 35. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.
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Crush Design studio Crush created the cover for this season’s SHOP London Style. The cover illustration shows three areas of London and the clothing styles typical in each, as explored in our feature about the capital’s menswear tribes on page 42. Crush practises a range of visual disciplines and its portfolio displays graphic elegance with strong ideas. The studio has previously created illustrations for Siemens, Pan Macmillan World and Faber & Faber among others. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
PHOTO: Brad Clarke PHOTOgraPHy
IllUSTraTION: CrUSH/ageNCyrUSH.COM
Contributors
Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s managing editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally loves south London and likes to visit Brixton Village and Herne Hill Farmers’ Market. She has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online. globalblue.com
Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features editor. A regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph, he is a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has written about style, culture and travel for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. His weaknesses include metallic Lanvin shoes, red wine and good cheese.
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Shop Floor PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris
E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Crush/agencyrush.com Contributor Milly McMahon Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau
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Contents p.35
shoe in the news, can we can use?
P ro d u c t s 20 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from London this season 22 Our Favourites the founders of London fashion label sibling reveal their favourite places and products in London 24 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 30 Street Style our pick of London’s best dressed for spring/ summer 2014 N ews 33 Shop Window one store not to be missed in London 34 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 40 In Store … … with Phoebe english in Hostem F e At u r e s 42 Cover Story: Tribal Dress when it comes to menswear, London’s style groups occupy diferent areas. sally McIlhone provides a guide Above: Camper sneakers, spring/summer 2014
48 Top Cat For decades, British highstreet fashion has been led by topshop. stephen doig talks to Geofrey J Finch, its new creative design consultant e x Pe r I e Nce 58 Spotlight On: St Martin’s Courtyard Verity Hogan discovers an ideal retreat within covent Garden Gu I de 67 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London 82 My City up-and-coming designer Ashley williams shares her London recommendations esseNtIA Ls 86 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r A N s L At I o N s 88 Русский Перевод 97 美文 翻 译 102 PostcA r d 104 sHoP writes home about Floris
LONDON | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 207 629 2495 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 207 823 5044
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Check Out
RAINBOW RINGS British jewellers Astley Clarke has created a concept that keeps customers coming back for more. Its colourful stacking rings feature gemstones and enamels in rainbow shades and an array of styles, so there is something to suit everyone here. Designed to be mixed, matched and stacked, the extensive range ofers endless possibilities for personal expression. New variations, designed in the company’s Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
London studio, are introduced each season and spring/summer sees chic additions to the Neutrals Stack featuring gold vermeil beading and signature enamels in sea shell, peach blush and moonlight. We also love Astley Clarke’s Biography bracelets which share the same vision. With rings this fun, we’ll be stacking them high for months to come. gl Astley Clarke stacking rings, from £50, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, astleyclarke.com for map go to page 76
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our FAVourITES: Sibling British label Sibling was set up by Joe Bates, Sid Bryan and Cozette McCreery. They worked for various brands and design houses before establishing Sibling, which helped to redefne men’s knitwear as fun and vibrant; a women’s label Sister by Sibling followed a few years later. Sibling’s models go down the catwalk with smiles on their faces, and here, the friends share what makes them happy in London with Ximena Daneri siblinglondon.com
PHOTO: Ed rEEvE
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1. ‘The newly opened Ace Hotel in Shoreditch has a dining room run by the boys from Bistrotheque. We eat dinner there regularly, but have yet to try the tea menu’
2. ‘For a quiet pint and to listen to the juke box’ The Nelson’s Head, 32 Horatio Street, London E2 7EH, +44 (0)20 7729 5595, nelsonshead.com
Hoi Polloi, Ace Hotel, 100 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JQ, +44 (0)20 8880 6100, hoi-polloi.co.uk
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
3. ‘If it’s an early Sunday morning head to the Flower Market. Don’t expect it to be huge though as it really is just a road’ Columbia Road Flower Market, Columbia Road, London E2 7RG, +44 (0)20 7613 0876, columbiaroad.info
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PHOTO: Ewan-M/CC-BY-Sa-2.0
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PHOTO: PurPaBOO/PETEr SMiTH CC BY-Sa 2.0
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4. ‘Joe likes to swim and arrives at the pool super early as it gets crowded’ London Fields Lido, London Fields Westside, London E8 3EU, hackney.gov.uk
5. ‘Cozette has pink hair. Or purple. Or blue. Or all three. Tomorrow Cozette may be a Washed Up Mermaid. We aren’t being rude, that’s what this colour from Bleach is called’ Bleach Washed Up Mermaid, £5, Boots, 385-389 Oxford Street, London W1C 2NB, +44 (0)20 7629 8694, bleachlondon.tumblr.com
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FIRST LADY You’ll be the epitome of chic in this timeless and luxurious ensemble 1
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1. Whistles nude jacket, £325, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford Street, London W1 1HF, +44 (0)844 800 3752, whistles.co.uk
3. Radley bag, £299, Radley, 37 Floral Street, London WC2E 9DJ, +44 (0)20 7379 9709, radley.co.uk
2. Charlotte Tilbury Kissing Coachella Coral lipstick, £23, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), charlottetilbury.com
4. Pierre Hardy shoes, price on request, Matches, 87 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QU, +44 (0)20 7487 5400, pierrehardy.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
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5. Autumn Cashmere top, £175, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, autumncashmere.com
7. Folli Follie bracelet, £80, Folli Follie, 120 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DT, +44 (0)20 7499 6633, follifollie.co.uk
6. Shourouk Lady nude earrings, price on request, Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RQ, +44 (0)20 7629 9161, shourouk.com
8. Max Mara Pensile skirt, £225, Max Mara, 19-21 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PU, +44 (0)20 7499 7902, maxmara.com
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Bright and Breezy Appear efortlessly stylish in these summer staples which will go with anything
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1. Bally bag, £675, Bally, 116 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EN, +44 (0)20 7491 7062, bally.com 2. Ted Baker shorts, £57.50, Ted Baker, 245 Regent Street, London W1B 2EN, +44 (0)20 7493 6251, tedbaker.com 3. Acne Boyd Ox shirt, £170, Acne, 13 Dover Street, London W1S 4LN, +44 (0)20 7629 9374, acnestudios.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
4. Calvin Klein Collection opticals, £146; Calvin Klein Collection sunglasses, £197, Calvin Klein Jeans, 170 Regent Street, London W1B 5SW, +44 (0)20 3100 2900, calvinklein.com 5. Church’s shoes, £260, Church’s, 133 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TE, +44 (0)20 7493 1474, church-footwear.com
PHOTO (1): STefanO Saccani
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CITY CLASSICS 3
Look to these undisputed style sealers this season
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1. Dune handbag, £59, Dune, 26 James Street, London WC2E 8PA, +44 (0)20 7836 1560, dunelondon.com
3. Hobbs trench coat, £749, Hobbs, 219 Regent Street, London W1B 4NH, +44 (0)20 7437 4418, hobbs.co.uk
2. Accessorize Ikati maxi stole, £19, Accessorize, 5-7 James Street, London WC2E 8BH, +44 (0)20 7379 3623, accessorize.com
4. AG Adriano Goldschmied Bonnue shorts, £190, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, agjeans.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
LONDON & SURROUNDING AREAS: BICESTER / BLUEWATER / BROMPTON ROAD / CAMBRIDGE COVENT GARDEN – FLORAL STREET / GATWICK NORTH HEATHROW T1 & T5 / MANCHESTER NEW CATHEDRAL STREET REGENT STREET / SOUTH MOLTON STREET / WESTFIELD LONDON G ET IN ON THE ACT S P R IN G SUMMER 2014 T ED BAKE R. CO M T ED BAKE R BL O G .C O M
# GE T IN ON THE ACT # TE D BAKE R SS1 4
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Floral prints are popular every spring and summer, and visitors to London Fashion Week gave the theme a fresh lease of life this season. Among the designs worn by our pick of the best dressed is a delicate design from Erdem and a bold interpretation by Peter Pilotto
PHOTOS: EMANUELE D’ANGELO/LC-JOURNAL.COM
Street Style
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
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PHOTO: FRANK OUDEMAN
Shop Window
NEW CREW J Crew has opened a two-storey boutique on London’s prestigious Regent Street. This is its frst fagship store outside North America, highlighting the increasing popularity of the New York-based brand on this side of the Atlantic. Key pieces that embody the J Crew style are cashmere sweaters, statement jewellery and sporty slacks. The brand has a fun, individual, mix-and-match approach: think silk sweat pants teamed with a printed T-shirt, bold earrings and Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
a baseball cap, and you start to build a picture of the quirky and adaptable aesthetics that have put J Crew on the international fashion radar. The store is airy and inviting, featuring bleached wood fooring, table-top displays, rugs and sofas. The interior also incorporates a bit of British culture, with a white-and-gold telephone box and mannequins in Royal Guard hats, while the menswear department is decked in vintage furniture. gl J Crew, 165 Regent Street, London W1B 4AD, +44 (0)20 7292 1580, jcrew.com * for map go to page 76
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BOBBI BROWN IN TOWN Famous for her natural approach to beauty, Bobbi Brown has opened her frst standalone store in London. Highlights include an artistry table for make-up lessons, an inspiration wall detailing Bobbi Brown’s seasonal infuences, and how-to videos. We recommend the in-store services, which range from a one-to-one make-up lesson to tuition in how to master bridal and teenage beauty routines. irs Bobbi Brown The Studio, Westfeld London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)870 192 5827, bobbibrown.co.uk
STYLISH SISTER London label Sister Jane likes to march to its own beat. Rather than following traditional seasons it releases capsule collections throughout the year, enabling it to react quickly to new trends. The brand is stocked at Topshop and Urban Outftters, while we particularly like to visit its fagship boutique in the converted loft space of a church hall on Portobello Road in Notting Hill. Head here for genuine London style. gl Sister Jane, 59A Portobello Road, London W11 3DB, +44 (0)20 7148 0791, sisterjane.com Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
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PHOTO: Paula BeeTleSTOne
SHOP THE WORLD
HAPPY FEET Part of the techno-casual collection, these creations by Camper are a great investment. Colourful sneakers have become a musthave, adding a sporty yet nonchalant edge to everything from foaty dresses to sharp tailoring. hl Camper, 8-11 Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4SQ, +44 (0)20 7629 2722, camper.com
globalblue.com
Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com
Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store
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SUMMER SHADES Hugo Taylor and Charlie Morris met while employed at the club China White. They worked and played hard, so wore sunglasses to mask their tired eyes, and years later went on to develop their own collection of shades. The Louis Orson style has rounded mineral-blue lenses framed by
BRAZILIAN BEACH STyLE Since launching in 2009, Frescobol Carioca has been embodying the laid-back style of Rio de Janeiro in its beachwear and accessories. Now it has opened its frst fagship store, on Blandford Street in Marylebone. This is stocked with Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
Taylor Morris’s signature caramel horn acetate. Stocked exclusively in Harvey Nichols, these are our pick for the summer. gl Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, taylormorriseyewear.com
casualwear made with the highest quality fabrics and designed to work well on and of the beach. Beautifully handcrafted beach hats, beach bags and surfboards are also available, bringing a touch of Brazilian summertime to London. rp Frescobol Carioca, 47 Blandford Street, London W1U 7HQ, +44 (0)20 7935 8289, frescobolcarioca.com
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DAZZLING DEBENHAMS Debenhams fagship store has undergone a £25 million makeover, ahead of the department store’s 200th birthday. The basement has been transformed into a lingerie and footwear oasis for women, while
LUXURY LINEN Anyone who appreciates the best in linen and towels may already know Sheridan, a premium homeware brand from Australia. The company has recently opened its frst standalone boutique in the UK. Staf Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
menswear has been moved to the frst foor. The space boasts the retailer’s biggest beauty hall and three foors of fashion with lines from designers such as Jonathan Saunders, Preen and Henry Holland. gl Debenhams, 334-348 Oxford Street, London W1C 1JG, +44 (0)844 561 6161, debenhams.com * for map go to page 72
at the store on Kings Road encourage visitors to touch the fabrics while making their selection. Look out for loungewear, rugs and babywear from the brand in the near future. df Sheridan, 362-364 King’s Road, London SW3 5UZ, +44 (0)7801 341177, sheridanuk.com
S C A N D I N AV I A N D E S I G N F O R E V E R Y O N E
Repeat happiness daily
ECCO Kensington 102 Kensington High Street London W8 4SG · +44 2079382583 ECCO Oxford Street 445 Oxford Street London W1C 2PP · +44 2076298820 ECCO Knightsbridge 45 Brompton Road London SW3 1DE · +44 2075845737 ECCO Covent Garden 36 Long Acre London WC2E 9JT · +44 2073795145
ecco.com
ECCO Westfeld · Unit 1114 Ariel Way Westfeld Shopping Centre London W12 7GD +44 2087351830 ECCO Wimbledon · Unit 110 Centre Court Shopping Center 4 Queens Road. Wimbledon London SW19 8YE · +44 2089478665
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In Store: Phoebe English Phoebe English’s beautiful and structured pieces are available in Hostem’s recently opened womenswear foor, where Ximena Daneri met her
‘I feel extremely connected to this area and am very fond of it so I was incredibly thrilled to be able to stock my clothes at Hostem. I feel that Hostem is an original space and shopping concept. It’s designed to go beyond a purchasing exchange and is a submersive experience. The space is not only a continuation of the brands stocked here but is an addition to their values and visions. ‘When the womenswear buyer Christie Fells frst got in touch about stocking my designs she was so modest about what the new foor was going to look like. When I came to see it I was completely taken aback by this incredibly tasteful space hidden in the depths of east London. ‘I think London has brought a great sense of realism to my work. When I was a teenager, I was very taken with the fantasy of the Parisian fashion scene but after Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 86
living and working in London for so long I feel my work holds a balanced mixture of these two amazing cities. ‘I don’t like to choose favourites from collections as my opinion of each piece changes as time progresses. Currently I have been wearing the Ghost Net longsleeved jacket. ‘I moved to London when I was 19 and shared a fat on Arnold Circus, just at the top of Redchurch Street. Since then it has changed a great deal, but has defnitely kept its same beating heart of creativity – it’s just an older more mature version. I remember the Hostem building, it defnitely didn’t look this chic back then!’ Hostem, 41-43 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7739 9733, hostem.co.uk, phoebeenglish.com
PHOTO: XimEna DanERi
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Above: Phoebe English, photographed in the Hostem store on Redchurch Street
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When it comes to menswear, London’s style groups occupy diferent areas. Sally McIlhone provides a guide
S H O P | 43
PHOTO: GEORGE GARNIER
Tribal Dress London is one of the world’s great menswear destinations and its reputation is growing internationally as enclaves of new tailoring and refned casualwear crop up all over the city. From the suave shirtmakers of Jermyn Street to the vibrant menswear boutiques around Carnaby Street, not to mention Redchurch Street’s new laid-back luxury stores, London’s well-dressed male fashion tribes have never been so well catered for. The traditionalist’s choice, Jermyn Street, has long been known for its shirt making, and its fashion credentials are accentuated by the statue of 19th-century icon Beau Brummell, one of the city’s original dandies, which was erected here. Hawes & Curtis, which recently celebrated its centenary, has been a Jermyn Street stalwart for many years. Edward Smith, head of brand at Hawes & Curtis, believes that Brummell’s legacy has infuenced the labels that have focked here. ‘He was all about ft and tailoring and I think that has 88 /
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resonated,’ he says. ‘Jermyn Street has seized this title and there are now countless shops – mainstream and artisan – that celebrate the best clothing and accessories on ofer.’ Luxurious British label Hackett has had a store on Jermyn Street for two decades. Jeremy Hackett, founder of the brand, sings the shopping boulevard’s praises. ‘Nowhere in the world is there a thoroughfare quite like Jermyn Street, a street that caters for classically inclined gentlemen from all over the world,’ he says. ‘You can be measured for a hat and purchase bespoke briefcases. There are barbershops and perfumeries for gentlemanly colognes. Why would a gentleman wish to shop anywhere else?’ Yet despite the street’s myriad delights, those who prefer a more contemporary aesthetic have been venturing further afeld. Carnaby Street’s style associations date back to the swinging 60s and the popularity of hippie and mod fashion. Today that infuence Opposite: Sir Tom Baker’s store sells suiting with fair
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has spread, with Brewer Street to the south and Berwick Street to the east attracting trend-focused men who want clothing with a contemporary favour. ‘If you are a guy into products there is a nice circuit you can walk with a great blend of stores and products on ofer,’ says Ben Banks, director of sales for Woolrich. To walk the Carnaby circuit, take Brewer Street as your starting point: inside the Woolrich store you’ll fnd lightweight yet durable jackets and seersucker shirts. Make Jack Spade, with its utilitarian chic products, your next stop. Melissa Xides from Jack Spade believes that Brewer Street appeals to the modern man because of its ‘diverse mix of menswear brands, which of-
‘There seems to be an honesty to Berwick Street that has become quite rare in London’ Jacob Sorkin
Above (from lef): Hawes & Curtis, Jermyn Street; Woolrich, Brewer Street; edgy tailoring can be found at Sir Tom Baker, D’Arblay Street
PHOTO: DunCAn FinDlATer
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fer great products sold by passionate people’. Heading east from Brewer Street, turn north onto Berwick Street to fnd the Percival store. Opened in December 2012, the boutique sells timeless, well-made men’s garments. The Percival founders chose the street as the perfect setting for their frst shop because of its ‘centrality and strong tradition of independent traders’. ‘There seems to be an honesty to Berwick Street that has become quite rare in London. It also has
such a rich cultural history, and as a brand that’s something we want to be synonymous with,’ says account director Jacob Sorkin. It’s not just the brains behind Percival that have recognised the draw of Berwick Street. Oliver Spencer and Universal Works have chosen to open stores on this rakish road, to complement each brand’s stores on Lamb’s Conduit Street – another central London menswear hub. Follow Berwick Street north towards Oxford Street and turn onto D’Arblay Street, where you’ll fnd edgy tailoring from Sir Tom Baker. Trained on Savile Row, Sir Tom opened his Soho boutique in 1996. Located a short walk from Carnaby Street, the store takes the
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London has a menswear area to suit every style
sartorial traditions of his former home and blends them with pop culture infuences to create suiting with fair. ‘Soho is an area where small shop spaces are available and this allows small labels to have a platform without having to take on huge rents,’ Sir Tom says. He also acknowledges that the area’s importance to London’s rock ‘n’ roll scene in the 1960s has also played a role. Those looking for a touch of rebellion in their wardrobe need look no further.
Another hip menswear locale is Redchurch Street in Shoreditch. Home to Hostem, APC and Sunspel this is the place in which to shop and be seen. ‘It has become one of the most unique shopping destinations in London, partly due to the diverse cultural landscape of the area,’ says Nicholas Brooke, CEO of Sunspel. ‘It is a creative hub with a fourishing art, fashion and music scene, but in close proximity to the city.’ Whether you prefer to shop
Above (clockwise from lef): Redchurch Street in Shoreditch, home to the APC and Sunspel menswear stores
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in the historical home of British menswear, tread the culturally signifcant streets of the Carnaby circuit or opt for the directional choice of Redchurch Street, London has a menswear area to suit every style tribe hawesandcurtis.co.uk, hackett.com, woolrich.eu, jackspade.com, percivalclo.com, oliverspencer.co.uk, universalworks.co.uk, tombakerlondon.com, sunspel.com
PHOTO: Alex SAinSbury
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Above: Topshop design consultant Geofrey J Finch
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Top
For decades, British high-street fashion has been led by Topshop. Stephen Doig talks to Geofrey J Finch, its new creative design consultant
CAT From the great historic department stores to the high-fashion boutiques of Bond Street, many visitors to London have a specifc retailer or area in mind when they go shopping. Topshop is often high on the list. It has become a British style institution, with outlets across the country, but the megastore at Oxford Circus is the hub. Women of all ages shop here, from teenagers to those in their 60s.
Topshop ofers innovative fashion alongside afordable staples, and its style credentials are boosted by collaborations with the likes of Kate Moss, Christopher Kane, Erdem and Celia Birtwell. Choosing an outft at Topshop has become just as fashionable as picking out pieces from Harvey Nichols. Now there’s a new name swinging through the doors. Geofrey J Finch is already well-known in
PHOTO: CATWALKING.COM
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London fashion circles as creative director and co-founder of the cult clothing label Antipodium. Now the Australian’s cool design aesthetic will reach a new audience as he takes on the role of creative design consultant at Topshop, working under Vogue’s former fashion director Kate Phelan and the label’s own head of design. ‘It was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up,’ says Finch, who will blend his own brand of low-key, cool-girl chic into Topshop’s Above (from lef): Antipodium Atention Shoppers spring/summer 2014 show; Antipodium spring/ summer 2014
TAKE HOME MORE THAN JUST BEAUTIFUL MEMORIES
Established in 1778 Goldsmiths is one of the UK’s leading jewellers of magnificent diamonds and luxury watches.
goldsmiths.co.uk 0845 604 2320
PHOTO: melvynvincenT.cOm
52 | F E AT U R E S
up-to-the-minute trend pieces. It’s a happy marriage, he says: ‘There’s a certain nonchalance that comes from growing up in Australia that is also very Topshop. What’s not to love about a sense of ease and fun? I’m fascinated by the art of retail and I’m a pop culture obsessive. Topshop is a beacon of both and I was utterly delighted when they approached me.’ Finch began his career in fashion at Antipodium, the cult Soho store and exhibition space, and went on to launch its debut clothing line in 2006. Not bad for someone with no formal training. The label, known for witty prints, humorous detailing and a sense of downtown ease, has since been sported by celebrities including Beth Ditto. Finch is continually inspired by London street style – good news since he will now be spending the bulk of his working hours perched high above Oxford Circus in the heart of the city. ‘The wonderful Above: Topshop store, Oxford Street
‘The UK high street is integral to British fashion’ Geoffrey J Finch
energy on London’s streets has kept me in the city for more than 10 years,’ he says. ‘Anything that can punch above a long, grey British winter is indeed a force to be reckoned with.’ He lists Pixie Geldof as one of his style heroes, alongside his impeccably stylish friends in the
54 | F E AT U R E S
industry. When he needs downtime or a clear head for design inspiration, Finch heads for a ‘bracing march’ in the beautiful natural environment of Hampstead Heath in north London. Such is the standing of Topshop’s Oxford Circus fagship store that Finch believes many people will, like him, remember the frst time they shopped here. ‘When I frst visited London I was 17 and I made my frst trip to Topshop. I’d never seen anything like it. After my frst day as creative design consultant of Topshop, I went for a spin around the same store and felt incredibly proud to be part of such an institution.’ Finch believes that the infuence of British high street stores on Above (both): Topshop spring/summer 2014
the fashion industry as a whole sets a benchmark. After all, as he points out, brands such as Topshop do a great deal to support British design talent. ‘The UK high street is integral to British fashion,’ he says. ‘I love that Topshop has been such a driving force in its evolution – not just in providing access to customers, but also with initiatives like Newgen, which champions new talent.’ The broad range of Topshop’s customers, from style-fanatic teens to well-heeled grandmas, is something that appeals to Finch. ‘I love the breadth of our demographic,’ he says. ‘It’s about mindset rather than age, and with both Antipodium and Topshop, there’s an emphasis on clothes
56 | F E AT U R E S
Finch describes Topshop’s team as ‘design warriors’
Above: Newgen spring/summer 2014 winners
that underline personal style.’ He references the particularly British knack for embracing a range of disparate infuences in a single outft – a Topshop dress with a vintage coat, heritage bag and designer shoes, for example. Finch describes Topshop’s team as ‘design warriors’. With creatives like him on board, we can assume the UK high street will be leading the charge for a long time to come topshop.com, antipodium.com
move your lee Let’s celebrate 125 years of denim expertise
STORES IN LONDON
COVENT GARDEN, 35 NEAL STREET WESTFIELD SHOPPING CENTER, SHEPARDS BUSH
58 | E X P E R I E N C E
Spotlight On: St Martin’s Courtyard St Martin’s Courtyard ofers the ideal escape from the busier areas of Covent Garden, with its exclusive boutiques, luxury restaurants and a spa surrounding a peaceful open-air courtyard. Verity Hogan lifts the lid on this hidden gem
Covent Garden is one of London’s most popular places to visit, thanks to its wide range of shops, restaurants, cafés and myriad entertainment attractions. However, hidden just of Long Acre, one of Covent Garden’s main shopping streets, St Martin’s Courtyard shows visitors a diferent side of the city. It has a surprisingly peaceful
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atmosphere and a unique offering of fashion, beauty and lifestyle boutiques alongside restaurants, a yoga studio and a day spa. An air of exclusivity pervades as every addition to the courtyard is carefully selected to enhance the area and to help create what has become one of the city’s bestkept secrets.
PHOTO: Marcin PlOnka
E X P E R I E N C E | 59
Yotopia
Duo
Every day spent in St Martin’s Courtyard should begin with an energising yoga class at Yotopia. The studio is luxurious, with two main rooms that are fooded with natural light and a well-appointed changing room with showers and lockers. Different types of yoga are taught here, and all ability levels are catered for, from beginners to advanced, with experts in each feld overseeing classes. Fastmoving and fuid vinyasa fow yoga is a speciality and is sure to leave you feeling revitalised and ready to face the day.
Specialising in the perfect ft, Duo’s shoes and boots are unique in that they are available in 21 calf sizes and three widths for guaranteed comfort. The boutique’s range references current trends but is not afraid to go against the grain when necessary. Artisan shoemakers using the highest quality Italian leather carefully craft every item; this attention to detail, combined with a colour palette based on natural earth colours, produces styles that transcend trends to become enduring wardrobe staples.
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60 | E X P E R I E N C E
Joules Promoting a country sense of style in central London, Joules provides an antidote to minimalist city wardrobes. Its relaxed, bright and colourful clothing collection takes inspiration from
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English eccentricity and features equestrian, foral and maritime motifs throughout. The items available include fashion options for all the family alongside complementary homeware; its signature rugby shirts are sure to fnd a place in any wardrobe.
P hoto: Damiano L evat i D oLo mites, itaLy
N E V E R S T O P EXPLORING
ThE NORTh FacE® STORE BLuEwaTER Bluewater Shopping Centre, Bluewater
ThE NORTh FacE® STORE caRNaBy 8 Carnaby Street, London
ThE NORTh FacE® STORE KINGSTON 40 Clarence Street, Kingston
™
E X P E R I E N C E | 63
Relax The Relax spa provides an ideal respite from the city, with seven treatment rooms and members of staf who specialise in a friendly, relaxed and professional service. Guests can relax in the client lounge,
Bill’s With its charming, rustic interiors and menu of home-cooked favourites, it is unsurprising that Bill’s has become one of London’s most popular restaurant chains. Its St Martin’s Courtyard branch typifes the group’s
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which overlooks the courtyard, before indulging in a full-body massage, oxygen facial, manicure or eye-brow shaping. If pressed for time, try a chair massage: these 15-minute acupressure treatments are performed over the clothes and ofer instant refreshment.
vintage aesthetic, with stripped wooden tables, mismatched furnishings and beautifully packaged produce stacked on shelves. The restaurant’s menu is equally alluring; choose a British classic such as fsh pie or a fsh fnger sandwich, or an international favourite such as Thai green curry.
64 | E X P E R I E N C E
Dalla Terra
DIRECTORY
Dalla Terra takes inspiration from a traditional Italian enoteca but boasts a sleek, modern interior that is in keeping with its citycentre location. Wine is the restaurant’s speciality and more than 180 vintages are available to enjoy on-site and at home. The selection includes wines from established and lesser-known producers from throughout Italy; be sure to try something from the food menu to complement your drink – the aubergine and smoked provola parmigiana comes highly recommended.
Yotopia, 13 Mercer Street, London WC2H 9QJ, +44 (0)33 3405 8888, yotopia.co.uk * for map go to page 80 Duo, St Martin’s Courtyard, 21 Slingsby Place, London WC2E 9AB, +44 (0)20 7836 8335, duoboots.com * for map go to page 80 Joules, St Martin’s Courtyard, 3 Slingsby Place, London WC2E 9AB, +44 (0)20 7836 6055, joules.com * for map go to page 80 Relax, 7 Mercer Street, London WC2H 9QJ, +44 (0)20 7494 3333, relax.org.uk * for map go to page 80 Bill’s, St Martin’s Courtyard, London WC2E 9AB, +44 (0)20 7240 8183, bills-website.co.uk * for map go to page 80 Dalla Terra, St Martin’s Courtyard, 25 Slingsby Place, London WC2E 9AB, +44 (0)20 7240 8811, dallaterra.co.uk * for map go to page 80
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G U I D E | 67
Guide
ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES
Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around London with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/london or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.
globalblue.com
68 | G U I D E
London MARYLEBONE WARWICK AVENUE EDGWARE ROAD HA R ROW RD
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The Serpentine SERPENTINE GALLERY
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Place Of Interest
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HIGH STREET KENSINGTON
SL O A N
ROYAL ALBERT HALL
Train Station
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BRITISH MUSEUM
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70 | G U I D E
WEEkEnD OffEnDEr Taking inspiration from Britain’s foremost past youth movements, Weekend Ofender’s menswear collection has retro appeal, and its functional pieces are all infused with a streetwise attitude. founders Sam Jones and rhydian Powell rely on sharp lines, Mod silhouettes and covert colourways to give their collections a distinctive look. Quality and design are central to the label; the brand’s main line features a bold colour palette, broad cuts and clandestine pockets, while the Category A collection is more refned.
Weekend Ofender, 19 D’Arblay Street, London W1f 8ED, +44 (0)20 7734 5753, weekendofender.com
Oxford Street (North) WATERSTONES ●
. K ST S ● N W IC B E R U D IE J E A N
The Plaza W EL LS
ST RE E T
MOSS ● ESPRIT ●
AMERICAN APPAREL ●
RETRO LONDON JESSOPS SWAROVSKI COOLWAY THE ORANGE SHOP FLIGHT CENTRE
D KEN WEE ER ● END
OFF
NOEL
● H. SAMUEL VERO MODA/ ● JACK & JONES
ET
RE ET
● MARKS & SPENCER
STR E
ST LE ST
ST RE ET
UNIQLO ●
OXFORD STREET
EA STCA
MA RG AR ET
HMV ● JEANS WEST ●
● ● ● ● ● ●
T STREE BLAY D’AR
THE PERFUME SHOP ● SPORTS DIRECT ● ACCESSORIZE ●
● MUJI H&M ●
MA R KE T P L .
ALDO ● OFFICE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●
● BOOTS
R A M IL
. LI ES ST
● PHONES 4 U
THE PHOTOGRAPHERS GALLERY
● NEXT ● NEW LOOK ● RIVER ISLAND
SCHUH ●
● ZARA
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
SHOP Recommendation
Shopping Centre/Mall
hawesandcurtis.co.uk
72 | G U I D E
browns focUs
rates the collection, which has previously provided a platform for christopher Kane, Hussein chalayan, ostwald Helgason and Meadham Kirchhof. Browns Focus, 24 south Molton street, London w1K 5rn, +44 (0)20 7514 0063, brownsfashion.com
The rebellious relative of browns, London’s grand dame of fashion, browns focus showcases work by the capital’s fnest up-and-coming designers. studio Toogood carefully cu-
Oxford Street (Central) ● BERSHKA
URBAN OUTFITTERS ●
RT LA ND ST
R EE T
MISS SELFRIDGE ●
TOPSHOP / TOPMAN ●
OXFORD STREET
GR EAT PO
● MANGO ● GAP ● BUREAU DE CHANGE
NIKETOWN ●
● TEZENIS
R E G EN
OXFORD CIRCUS
REG ENT STR EET
H&M ●
R T ST
EET
● BENETTON
● PANDORA ● ORANGE HEN RIE TTA
JO
R IN HN P
S T. ZARA ● C E 'S H. SAMUEL ●
● VISION EXPRESS ● JD SPORTS
BHS
● COLLONI
PLA CE
CLARKS ● JANE NORMAN ●
● ERNEST JONES ● ESPRIT
GEOX ● THE BODY SHOP ● COAST ●
Cavendish Square Gardens
● CARPISA ● BUREAU DE CHANGE
● ACCESSORIZE ● MOSS ● RIVER ISLAND
K ST
● ALDO
REET
HEN RIE TTA
OXFORD STREET
BROO
● TIE RACK
John Lewis
● UNIQLO ● SWATCH ● PULL & BEAR
PLA CE
WI GM OR E
HANDEL HOUSE MUSEUM EE T
● MASSIMO DUTTI
House Of Fraser
ST RE ET
FOSSIL ● SUNGLASS HUT ●
Meat Liquor EET WE LBE CK STR
VE R E
P.38
S T.
Debenhams
● SWAROVSKI ● HOUR PASSION ● NEXT
WB
ON
Bureau De Change U SO
● THORNTONS
ST R EE T
NE
TR DS
JO MALONE ● LINKS OF LONDON ●
● ZARA
THE DISNEY STORE ●
W EL BE CK
Hanover Square
● SKECHERS
EET HO L L ES STR
TH
N TE OL M
ET RE ST
BROWNS ● FOCUS
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Global Blue Refund Point
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
UNDISPUTED
KING OF TRAINERS
NIKE AIR MAX 90
ONLY AT JD
INTERNATIONAL DELIVERY TO OVER 195 COUNTRIES FOR JUST £4.99
JDSPORTS.CO.UK
G U I D E | 75
Oxford Street (South) ● BOOTS
JOHN BELL ● & CROYDEN SUNGLASS HUT ●
● FOOT LOCKER ● BUREAU DE CHANGE VIVIENNE ● OMEGA ● WESTWOOD
FOREVER 21 ●
BOND STREET
H&M ● INTIMISSI ● ALDO ● THE BODY SHOP ●
DOROTHY PERKINS/ ● BURTON
West One Centre
● BOOTS ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY
PHASE 8 ●
JA ME S ST
RE E T
GAP ●
JANE NORMAN ● FRENCH CONNECTION ●
DU KE ST
RE ET
OXFORD STRE ET
ACCESSORIZE ●
● CAMPER ● SWAROVSKI WATCHES OF ● SWITZERLAND ● ADIDAS
● WATERSTONES ● THE PERFUME SHOP
Selfridges
● ARABIAN OUD ● ECCO ● RIVER ISLAND
SO NY RE ● CE NT
OR
NO RT H
CH AR D ST.
AU DL EY
ST.
MARKS & SPENCER ●
NO RT H RO
VODAFONE ● CLARKS ●
W
CLAIRE’S ● BOOTS ●
ThE RIDInG hoUsE Café Despite being located less than a minute’s walk from the crowds of oxford Circus, the Riding house Café ofers a surprisingly sedate dining experience. Its interior is inspired by an English manor house, with woodpanelled walls, dark leather banquettes and low-hanging, fringed lampshades accompanied by an art deco-style tiled bar. Breakfast is a particular highlight: don’t miss the pancakes with yoghurt ice cream and fresh berries, best enjoyed alongside a bucket-sized cup of cofee. The Riding House Café, 43-51 Great Titchfeld street, London W1W 7PQ, +44 (0)20 7927 0840, ridinghousecafe.co.uk
RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● MONSOON ● NEW LOOK ●
ST.
ET
ANN SUMMERS ●
PA RK ST
● PRIMARK
W
MOTHERCARE ●
RE ET
NO RT H RO
NEXT ● SUPERDRUG ● DOROTHY PERKINS ●
OX F O R D S T R E
PO RT MA N
WALLIS ● TOPSHOP ●
● EVANS
CHECKPOINT ●
MARBLE ARCH
Global Blue Retailer Department Store
PA R K LA
NE
Non-Global Blue Retailer London Underground Station
Shopping Centre/Mall
76 | G U I D E
Regent Street & Carnaby Street
LEVI’S ●
● NIKETOWN ● TOPSHOP / TOPMAN
H&M ●
OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●
KAREN MILLEN ● LONGCHAMP ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ●
REGENT STR EE T
FRENCH CONNECTION ●
OX FO RD ST
● TEZENIS
LACOSTE ● QUIKSILVER ●
RE ET
● COAST ● OMEGA ● & OTHER STORIES ● KIKI MAKEUP ● MAMAS AND PAPAS ● ACCESSORIZE ● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS
MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●
HOUSE OF ● HANOVER
HANOVER STREET
● H&M
T SK I H S TR EE SWAR OVTA LL IZ ED OROUG ● CR YS M A R LB
BA NA NABL IC ● RE PU
G R E AT
P.20
Liberty
ET
Y ST
S TR E
NAB
H A LL
CAR
MARS
FURLA ● ● COS ● MISS SIXTY HOBBS ● BARKER ● ● DESIGUAL HOSS INTROPIA ● T THE MAKEUP E ● FORNARINA CAMPER ● STORE ● RE ● GAP ● LAMBRETTA ST KIPLING ● SIZE? ● X ● PYLONES IRREGULAR CHOICE ● CLARKS ● DO ● PEPE JEANS AD M ● DIESEL GOLA ● ● THE KOOPLES ● JAEGER MUJI ● THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ● CHURCH’S ● ● KURT EL GANSO● ● STORM GEIGER THE PEN SHOP ● WESC ● ● OFFICE REPLAY ● FERRARI ● ● HAMLEYS ● DAVID AND GOLIATH HILFIGER GANT ● VIVIENNE DENIM ● ● LEE ● JUICY BOSE ● WESTWOOD COUTURE ● G-STAR RAW VANS ● MAN ● T ● MERC E ● HUGO BOSS HENRI LLOYD ● RE T JACK WOLFSKIN ● TS ● ESPRIT ● HUGO BOSS I BEN SHERMAN ● U HAWES & CURTIS ● D N LEVI’S ● ● THE NORTH FACE T.M. LEWIN ● ● LEVI’S CO PUMA ● ● J CREW P.33 ● BOOTS 7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ● VIVIENNE ● REISS SOCCER THE EXCHANGE GROUP ● ● AMERICAN APPAREL ● WESTWOOD SCENE ● ● EASTPAK CALVIN KLEIN PRETTY GREEN ● ● JEANS ● SWEATY BETTY ● GUESS NAPAPIJIRI ● ● ILLAMASQUA ● ANTHROPOLOGIE
R EE
T
R EGE
NT ST
R EE T
S AV
ES
TRE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY
ET
V IG O
ZARA HOME ●
STR
PENHALIGON’S ●
● T.M. LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE
EET
TOYWATCH ● BURBERRY ●
● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO
BREWER S TREET
Global Blue Retailer London Underground Station
Non-Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
Department Store
EET
● MAPPIN & WEBB
STR
HN S
SWAROVSKI ●
JA M
● TIMBERLAND
GODIVA ●
E R JO
OXFORDS ●
ER
● BROOKS BROTHERS
HACKETT ●
LOW
OW
L’OCCITANE ●
LOW
IL E R
● MASSIMO DUTTI . K ST BEA
CRABTREE & EVELYN ●
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78 | G U I D E
Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus BREWER S TREET
REISS ● SUPERDRY ●
● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS ● UNIQLO ● LUSH R E ● COACH HOLLISTER ● GE ● NESPRESSO NT GILLY HICKS ● S T R ● LOTUS● WOLFORD E
BU
RY
E AV
SH
AF
TE
S
CLARKS ● LONDON TEXTILE CO ●
YA L RO
The London fagship store of Italian footwear label Ruco Line has been remodelled and now boasts a stripped-back interior and minimal lighting to ensure that all attention is fxed on the eye-catching collections. For its spring/summer range, Ruco Line has embraced stateside style with sneakers centred around vintage americana and
Global Blue Retailer
● LILLYWHITES
TR .
RUco LInE
PICCADILLY CIRCUS
ENT S
D IL LY
Piccadilly Circus
R R EG
P IC C A
LO W E
B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T CA AR MP D OM ● AR ZIO ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND H AW O N ●E ES & CU T H E S R T IS ● T IN G ●
ET
crafted from the highest quality fabric and leather. Expect to fnd pairs featuring hidden heels and concealed platforms, metallic fnishes, perforated fabric and stud embellishment, echoing the statement basketball shoes of the 1990s. Ruco Line, 64 South Molton Street, London W1k 5ST, +44 (0)20 7629 5702, rucoline.com
Non-Global Blue Retailer
London Underground Station
G U I D E | 79
ShakE Shack US company Shake Shack has given its menu a British twist, incorporating many Uk-sourced ingredients. Burgers are made from aberdeen angus beef, while speciality hot dogs are made using rare breed cumbrian pork. Try the Union Shack, a frozen custard drink with chocolate brownie bites and sea salt.
Shake Shack, 24 Market Building, The Piazza, London Wc2E 8RD, +44 (0)20 3598 1360, shakeshack.com
Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street
ORIGINAL PENGUIN ●
LINKS ● KURT GEIGER ●
JAM ES STR EET
DAVID & GOLIATH ● CHANEL ●
LYLE & SCOTT ● PALMS ●
● L’OCCITANE
Covent Garden Market ● OAKLEY
P.82 ● ROHAN
Rules
MA IDE N LAN
PARAMO ● ● DESTINY SATTYA JEWELLERY ● ● VILBREQUIN KATHMANDU ●
E
● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND
THE SUIT COMPANY ●
SOUTHA MPTON STREET
● CRABTREE & EVELYN
● JO MALOME
OPENING CEREMONY ●
Shake Shack
HENRIETTA STREET
AFRICA CENTRE
● LUSH
● OLIVER SWEENEY ● MELISSA
MOSS ●
Restaurant SHOP Recommendation
Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
● TRESPASS
BURBERRY ●
KING STR EE T
RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●
LADURÉE ●
● JOY ● BRORA
● THE NORTH FACE
WHITTARD ● THORNTONS ●
APPLE STORE ●
● TEA PALACE
COTSWOLD ●
G SHOCK ● CASIO ●
BRIDGES ●
ELLIS BRIGHAM MOUNTAIN SPORTS ●
THE DISNEY STORE ●
● PENHALIGON’S
EET
CARAT ● KABIRI ● PIAZZA ● JAMIE’S ●
BUILD-A-BEAR ●
EXE TER STR EET
LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
QUIKSILVER ●
TAV IST OCK STR
EAST ●
FRED PERRY ●
PRETTY GREEN ●
PAPERCHASE ●
ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
● MOLTON BROWN
80 | G U I D E
Long Acre NE
CE
P.64 P.64
YOTOPIA ●
● RYMAN
R ST
FRENCH CONNECTION ●
RE
LO ● HAWES & CURTIS ● BEN SHERMAN ● RAY BAN ● SUNGLASS HUT
ET
GEOX ●
P.64
Bill’s
MARKS & SPENCER ●
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● DUO
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REISS ● R E ● LES NEREIDES RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● AC G ● ASPINAL OF LONDON GARDEN PHARMACY ● N
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THE WATCH HUT ● COS ● BANANA REPUBLIC ● ● JACK WOLFSKIN BARBOUR ● ● NEXT JACK WILLS ● L.K. ● STANFORDS BENNETT ●
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Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
Non-Global Blue Retailer SHOP Recommendation
Shopping Centre/Mall
G U I D E | 81
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LE BI RK EN LO ST FA OC X K
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Monmouth Street & Neal Street
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OROGOLD COSMETICS ● ● BREAKPOINT
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A F I EI SC ● ● ER UR F S WE S ● M AM Z A N F O R● UE O E ● JE LF NGU E OD HT T HU O P S I A ● THE LOFT ● P E F OO U G M C ● AD OM S R E D ● WOLSEY T H TO H E OR AT ST ● ALBAM LE ● KE ● BARACUTTA DI ES EL NI ● . ● G-STAR RAW .K SCRIBBLER ● EN ● CA NE LA GO AC FRED PERRY ● ● ET RS AN SP R ● M ST RE TE M ● E IT EA RL HA ● P F ● T D OW M ● N A VI UL O D OU C DS DA C L AN AN S KI ● ● RL RB H S ES E T U N B ● SASSOON CA GU M TE ● ● TI E AR T S E M U ● GILDA’S TRYST . ● RE HO E DR A ST OR ● BASE TE ● ST E ON DEZEEN DO LT TH OE L E ● DRESS CIRCLE SUPER STORE ● H A S S H ● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE AL R ● POSTE MISTRESS LAURA LEE TU JEWELLERY ● NA ● GUDRUN SJODEN TATTY DEVINE ● ● MARKET COVENT GARDEN
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EllIot RhoDEs this store’s selection of belts and buckles is vast, with over 200 belt straps and more than 800 interchangeable buckles. Every belt is handmade in Italy or spain using calf leather while buckles are fnished by hand. Attentive members of staf will help you fnd your perfect belt.
London Underground Station
Elliot Rhodes, 79 long Acre, london WC2E 9NG, +44 (0)20 7379 8544, elliotrhodes.com
82 | G U I D E
MY CITY: ASHLEY WILLIAMS Designer Ashley Williams studied at the University of Westminster in London. She emblazons her designs with cartoon prints and creates collections that are fun and full of energy. Her graduate show featured Pixie Geldof and Alice Dellal wearing a kaleidoscope of clashing colours and she was picked for London Fashion Week’s Fashion East show. Today she is a frm favourite with singers Rihanna and Rita Ora. Here, Ashley shares her insider tips for London with Milly McMahon ashleywilliamslondon.com
‘I’m from Sharjah in the United Arab Emirates; now I live in London and I like it because all my friends are here. ‘One of my favourite restaurants in London, and one of my secret places, is Ciao Bella in Bloomsbury as it’s afordable and nice. Jack’s Place in Bat-
tersea has great but inexpensive steak and lobster: it opened in 1968 and is still family owned. Rules * p.79 is the oldest restaurant in London, situated in Covent Garden. I love it because it has great food and it looks really good – it’s where I go for celebratory drinks and dinners.
Above (from lef): Ciao Bella; Making the Modern World gallery at The Science Museum
PHOTO: SCienCe MuSeuM/Jennie HillS
S H O P | 83
‘The local shop you will most likely fnd me in is the corner shop by my studio in Dalston! ‘I think that the best museum in the city is The Science Museum, in South Kensington. ‘To get about I use the tube if I’m in a hurry, or the bus if I want to look out of the window.
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‘When out-of-town friends are visiting London I will take them for a walk from Jack’s Place to Abney Park Cemetery in Stoke Newington. ‘A walk along the Thames is lovely too: the view when crossing Waterloo Bridge is particularly wonderful.’
84 | G U I D E
Bicester Village DoN’t MISS... Kenzo Kenzo’s creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have given the Parisian fashion house a fresh lease of life. their love of travel and art is evident in the vibrant collections, while their spontaneous approach to design means there’s always something exciting to see.
Stella McCartney with sharp tailoring, confdent cuts and understated femininity, Stella McCartney’s womenswear refects the designer’s signature aesthetic. Look out for her accessories and other ranges. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, oxfordshire oX26 6wD, +44 (0)1869 323200, bicestervillage.com Opening times open seven days a week all year round (Closed Christmas day).
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Rupert Sanderson Rupert Sanderson’s footwear strikes a balance between comfort and style. each pair features a soft insole while designs are clean, precise and sophisticated.
S H O P | 85
PeRFeCt DAY
How to get tHeRe
10am
By Shopping Express
Start your day at Hackett whose collections are based on classic British fashions combined with sharp tailoring and heritage.
the Shopping express coach service runs everyday (apart from 25 December) from central London to Bicester Village. Return tickets cost £25 (adult) and £20 for children up to 15 years.
11am
By Train
take a break for lunch at the lively Carluccio’s café. the Italian menu features pasta, risotto and salads.
there are regular services – up to four an hour – from London Marylebone to Bicester North station. the journey time from London Marylebone to Bicester North can take as little as 42 minutes. the Bicester Village Shuttle Bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.
3pm American designer Tory Burch ofers an impressive range of handbags. Visit the Bicester store to select a new one from the wide variety of totes, crossbody styles and clutches.
5pm end your day at Molton Brown, which takes inspiration from exotic locations to make beauty products flled with fragrant essential oils and plant extracts.
By Car the journey from London takes 60 minutes. take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village outlet Centre. the car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is oX26 6wD.
86
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Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of £30 - £50 and save up to 11% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
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Translations РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: Tribal Dress
PHOTO: © geOrge garnier
Шоппинг По-Английски
Магазины стильной мужской одежды разбросаны по разным уголкам Лондона, чтобы их найти может потребоваться немало усилий. Салли МакЭлхоун подготовила подробный гид Лондон одно из лучших мест в мире для шоппинга, особенно если речь идет о мужской одежде. Город всегда славился своими ателье и магазинами готовой одежды, число которых растет с globalblue.com
каждым годом: от магазинов на Jermyn Street, специализирующихся исключительно на мужских рубашках до роскошных бутиков мужской одежды на Carnaby Street и Carnaby Street, – одним словом выбору Лондонцев можно только позавидовать. Улица Jermyn Street – первоочередной выбор любого поклонника классического стиля. Благодаря местным магазинам рубашек ее название давно стало нарицательным, а установленная здесь статуя Джорджа Браммела, английского денди 19 века, только придает улице особый шарм. Бутик Hawes & Curtis, недавно отпраздновавший свое столетие, является одним из местных сторожил. Глава бренда Эдвард Смит свято верит в то, что наследие Браммела оказало большое влияние на расположившиеся здесь компании. «Основа его подхода заключалась в идеальном крое и хорошо сидящей одежде, именно это и ценится в здешних магазинах», – говорит он, – «Jermyn Street пользуется заслуженной славой, сейчас здесь сосредоточены бесчисленные ателье и магазины, предлагающие лучшую в мире одежду и аксессуары». Роскошный британский бренд Hackett открыл свой магазин на Jermyn Street более 20 лет назад. Основатель бренда Джереми Хэкетт также отдает должное этому шоппинг-бульвару: «В мире
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90 не найти улицы подобной Jermyn Street, где представлен такой же богатый ассортимент классической одежды для мужчин. Здесь можно купить сделанный на заказ портфель или головной убор. Есть тут и парикмахерские и парфюмерные салоны, рассчитанные специально на мужчин. А если здесь есть все что нужно мужчине, зачем идти куда-то еще?». Однако несмотря на казалось бы такой сказочный выбор, любители более современной эстетики на этом не останавливаются. Первые магазины одежды на Carnaby Street начали появляться в эпоху романтики 60-х, одновременно с расцветом субкультуры хиппи и британских модов. Сегодня они значительно распространились и охватили Brewer Street на юге и Berwick Street на востоке, привлекая представителей стильной молодежи, которая не стесняются современных модных течений. «Если вы мужчина и вам не безразлична мода, то вы сможете найти здесь немало хороших магазинов, предлагающих превосходную продукцию», – говорит Бен Бенкс, начальник отдела продаж в Woolrich. Чтобы ничего не пропустить, вы можете начать свою прогулку с Brewer Street и заглянуть в магазин Woolrich, где вы найдете прекрасный выбор легких курток и рубашек из плотной ткани. Следующей остановкой может быть Jack Spade, известный своими изделиями в стиле утилитарного шика. Мелисса Зайдс из Jack Spade полагает, что globalblue.com
Brewer Street нравится многим современным мужчинам благодаря «огромному разнообразию мужских брендов и великолепной одежды, которую продают люди, влюбленные в свою работу». Не доходя до конца Brewer Street, поверните на север в направлении Berwick Street, где вы найдете бутик Percival. Магазин, открывшийся в декабре 2012 года, предлагает удивительно элегантную и качественную мужскую одежду. Основатели бренда Percival не случайно выбрали это место для открытия своего первого магазина. Как рассказал директор по работе с клиентами Джейкоб Соркин: «Улица Berwick Street помимо своего центрального расположения имеет свои особенные традиции и тесную связь с независимыми производителями. Здесь все еще сохранилось понятие честности и открытости перед клиентом, в отличии от других районов Лондона. Также улица обладает богатым культурным прошлым и для наc как бренда это имеет большое значение». Основатели Percival не единственные, кто заметил достоинства Berwick Street. Такие бренды, как Oliver Spencer и Universal Works также предпочли эту улицу для открытия своих магазинов, наряду с Lamb’s Conduit Street, – еще одним популярным лондонским районом, сосредоточившим значительное количество мужских брендов. Пройдите по Berwick Street на север в сторону Oxford Street и затем сверните на D’Arblay Street, – здесь вы сможете найти строгие
92
костюмы Tom Baker. Получив опыт на Сэвил-роу, сэр Том открыл свой бутик в Сохо в 1996 году. Бутик расположен совсем недалеко от Carnaby Street и несет в себе высокие традиции своего прежнего месторасположения, сочетая новые веяния поп-культуры и создавая оригинальные костюмы. «В районе Сохо сдается в аренду множество небольших помещений, что позволяет маленьким частным компаниям открыть здесь свой магазин, не затрачивая при этом огромных средств», – говорит сэр Том. Он также признает заслугу эпохи рок-н-ролла 1960-х, оказавшей свое влияние на престиж района. Так что все, кто стремится придать своему гардеробу нотку бунтарства найдут здесь все, о чем мечтают. Еще одним популярным районом с магазинами модной мужской одежды является Шордич и улица Redchurch Street. Это отличное место для прогулок и шоппинга, globalblue.com
здесь расположились бутики таких брендов, как Hostem, APC и Sunspel. «Шордич стал одним из самых уникальных мест для шоппинга в Лондоне, отчасти благодаря насыщенной культурной жизни района», – говорит Николас Брук, генеральный директор Sunspel, – «Это настоящий творческий центр, где процветает искусство, мода и музыка, и расположен он очень близко к центру». Неважно какой район вы выберите для шоппинга, будь то бутик на легендарной Carnaby Street или магазин одежды на авангардной Redchurch Street, – Лондон готов предложить вам стильную мужскую одежду абсолютно на любой вкус. hawesandcurtis.co.uk, hackett.com, woolrich.eu, jackspade.com, percivalclo.com, oliverspencer.co.uk, universalworks.co.uk, tombakerlondon.com, sunspel.com
BY APPOINTMENT TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN PHARMACISTS JOHN BELL & CROYDEN LIMITED LONDON
Founded 1798 Wellbeing Emporium & Pharmacy
94
48: Top Cat
Топ-модель В течение многих десятилетий Topshop возглавляет молодежную моду Великобритании. Секретами успеха со Стивеном Дойгом поделился креативный дизайнер бренда – Джеффри Финч Любой, кто приезжает в Лондон уже, скорее всего, определился с тем, в какой магазин или район отправиться за покупками, будь то легендарный универмаг или один из роскошных бутиков Bond Street. Магазины Topshop, как правило, значатся в списке каждого. Они стали своего рода институтами британского стиля, имеющими филиалы по всей стране, однако главный из них расположился возле станции метро Oxford Circus в Лондоне. Здесь можно встретить покупательниц всех возрастов, от юных леди до тех, кому за 60. Наряду с изысканными инновационными коллекциями Topshop предлагает относительно доступные модели одежды, созданные на основе коллаборации с такими брендами, как Kate Moss, Christopher Kane, Erdem and Celia Birtwell. Одеваться в Topshop стало так же модно, как и в универмагах Harvey Nichols. А вот и еще одно имя, появившееся на модном горизонте. Джеффри Финч, хорошо известный в модных кругах Лондона, является креативным директором и сооснователем культового бренда Antipodium. Теперь стильной австралийской эстетике суждено globalblue.com
завоевать внимание новой аудитории, поскольку Финч получил должность креативного директора Topshop, где он будет работать под началом бывшего директора моды Vogue Кейт Фелан. «Это был шанс, который я не мог упустить», – говорит Финч. Дизайнер собирается объединить воедино свою собственную марку молодежной одежды с новейшими трендами Topshop. Это удачное слияние, говорит он: «Австралийская жизнь в определенной степени довольно беззаботная, именно такой образ жизни для Topshop является ключевым. Кому не придется по душе атмосфера непринужденности и веселья? Искусство продажи приводит меня в восторг, и я без ума от поп-культуры. В Topshop все это сливается воедино, поэтому я был несказанно рад получить от них предложение». Свою карьеру в индустрии моды Финч начал с культового магазина Antipodium в районе Сохо, а в 2006 году он дебютировал с собственной коллекцией одежды. Довольно не плохо для человека, не имеющего специального образования. Тем не менее, его коллекции с изящными принтами и непринужденным юмористическим дизайном завоевали признание многих знаменитостей, включая Бет Дитто. Лондонский стритстайл представляет для Финча неиссякаемый источник вдохновения, поэтому предложение проводить рабочие будни в центральном районе Лондона было для дизайнера более чем радостной
95 новостью. «Чудесная энергетика лондонских улиц удерживала меня в этом городе более десяти лет, даже не смотря на затяжные и мрачные британские зимы», – говорит он. Помимо друзей из модной индустрии, одним из своих кумиров дизайнер считает Пикси Гелдоф. Для отдыха и поиска вдохновения Финч частенько отправляется в парк Hampstead Heath на севере Лондона. Финч полагает, что первое посещение флагманского магазина Topshop на Oxford Circus оказывает настолько сильное впечатление, что многие люди, будут помнить о нем еще очень долго. «Я впервые приехал в Лондон и посетил Topshop, когда мне было 17 лет. Я никогда не видел ничего подобного. В первый день своей работы креативным дизайнером в Topshop я решил пройтись по тому самому магазину и ощутил необычайную гордость быть частью этой компании». По мнению Финч большое влияние на британскую индустрию моды оказывают именно магазины с хай-стрит. Взять, к примеру, такой магазин, как Topshop, который оказывает существенную поддержку начинающим британским дизайнерам. «Английские хай-стрит являются неотъемлемой частью британской моды», – говорит он, – «Мне нравится, что Topshop принимает непосредственное участие в этом процессе, привлекая к нему покупателей. Также бренду принадлежит инициатива поощрения молодых талантов Newgen». Довольно широкая аудитория поклонников Topshop всегда
96
86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
поражала Финча: здесь можно встретить как молодых модниц, так и стильных бабушек. «Мне нравится универсальность нашего предложения», – говорит он, – «Компания скорее ориентируется на тип мышления, нежели на возраст клиентов, а вместе Antipodium и Topshop сосредоточены на выпуске одежды, которая лучше всего подчеркивает индивидуальный стиль». В этом заключается суть английского подхода к одежде – сочетать в одном образе несколько различных стилей, например, платье Topshop с винтажным пальто, классической сумкой и парой дизайнерских туфель. Финч называет команду Topshop «стражами моды». С такими креативными людьми как он английский стиль еще долго будет на высоте. topshop.com, antipodium.com globalblue.com
1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 - £50 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.
97
美文翻译
的60年代,以及当时盛行的嬉皮士与mod 文化。今日这股影响力已向周围扩散,南至 Brewer Street,东至Berwick Street,吸引着
42: Tribal Dress 时尚部落
偏爱当代风格的潮流男性们。 “如果你专为购物而来,有一条可以经 过各种不同店铺与产品的好路线, ”Woolrich
若以男装风格划分地界,伦敦的时尚族群各
品牌的销售总监Ben Ba n k s表示。要走这
自盘踞着不同的位置。Sally McIlhone为您
条Carnaby环路,应该以Brewer Street为
提供指南
起点:在Woolrich店铺内,陈列着轻巧耐用 的夹克与泡泡纱衬衫。产品功能性出众又
伦敦是世界上最伟大的男装购物地之一,凭
设计别致的Jack Spade,则是值得停留的第
借城中各处纷涌而出的各种新式剪裁西服
二站。Jack Spade品牌的Melissa X ides认
与改良休闲服装,这座城市正迅速建立起国
为,Brewer St reet吸引当今男性的原因是
际声誉。从Jermyn街打造倜傥衬衣的制造
其“多元化的男装品牌组合,以及有一群充
商,到Carnaby街活力满载的男装店,更不
满热情的人们在此销售优质的产品。”
用说Redchurch街低调内敛的奢华精品店,
从Brewer Street往东,再向北转至Ber-
伦敦衣着得体的潮男们,从未像今天这般各
wick Street,可以找到Percival的门店。这家
得其所。
2012年12月开业的精品店,销售风格经典、
传统主义的选择Jer my n街早已因为制
制作精良的男士服装。Percival的创始人们
作衬衣而声名远扬,街口竖立着的19 世纪
选择这条街作为其首家店铺的完美选址,
风流公子、城中最早的纨绔子弟之一Beau
皆因其“中心位置与独立品牌销售的悠久传
Brummell的塑像,更无形中印证了这一点。
统”。 “ Berwick Street在伦敦似乎也显得相
刚过百年华诞的品牌Hawes & Curtis,已在
当罕见了。这条街有着那么丰富的文化史,作
这条街上驻扎许久。Hawes & Curtis品牌负
为品牌而言这正是我们想要同样承载的, ”品
责人Edward Smith深信,Brummell留下的
牌客户总监Jacob Sorkin表示。
时尚遗产对这条街的品牌都有着深刻的影
认同B er w ick St re et 价值的并非只有
响。 “他告诉人们什么是合体与剪裁,引起了
Perciva l的主脑。Ol iver Spencer与Un i-
众人的共鸣, ”他说。 “Jermyn Street紧握着
versal Works也选择在这条崎岖的路上开
这一名号,吸引了无数店铺进驻——包括主
店,作为两个品牌各自在Lamb’s Conduit
流与小众— —皆以贩售最优质的服装与配
St reet— —另一处伦敦男装枢纽的门店的
饰为荣。
补充。
奢华英国品牌Hackett在Jermyn Street
沿着BerwickStreet一路向北到牛津街,
上的分店已有二十年的历史。品牌创始人
然后在D’Arblay Street转弯,就可见到来自
Jeremy Hackett,对这条街赞不绝口。 “在世
Sir Tom Baker的前卫剪裁。Sir Tom在Sa-
界任何角落都没有像Jermyn Street这样,整
vile Row受训,并于1996年在Soho开设了自
条街都是为了来自世界各地的古典绅士们所
己的店铺。该店距离Carnaby Street只有咫
服务。”他说。 “你可以在此量身定制帽子,
尺之遥,融合来自老东家的裁缝传统与流行
也可以买到特质的公文包。这里还有理发店
文化的影响,制造出时髦西服。 “Soho区提
和专营男士古龙水的香水店。绅士们哪里还
供了许多小店铺空间,在无需承担巨额租金
愿意去别的地方购物呢?”
的前提下,小品牌们得以在此施展才华, ”Sir
虽说这条街为男人们配备了各种愉悦与
Tom表示。他还指出该地区对于60年代伦
享受,但那些摩登美学的追随者喜欢去更远
敦摇滚乐坛的重要性也同样不可忽视。那些
的地方探索一番。
想为衣柜增添一抹叛逆色彩的人们在此可
Carnaby Street的风格可以追溯到摇摆
以结束寻觅。
98 另一处潮流男装据点是Shored itch的 Redchurch Street。作为Hostem、APC 与 Sunspel等品牌的所在地,来这里购物同样 会被观瞻。 “这里已经成为伦敦最独特的购 物地之一,部分是源于该地区丰富多元的文 化景观, ”Sunspel的CEO,Nicholas Brooke 表示。 “这是一处创意碰撞的枢纽,艺术、时 装和音乐在此得以蓬勃发展,而这里离市中 心又很近。” PHOTO: Alex SAinSbury
无论您是钟爱在英国男装的经典殿堂购 物,还是想探索占有重要文化地位的Carnaby街区,或是有的放矢 直奔Redchu rch Street,每个时尚族群都可在伦敦找到自己 的归宿。 hawesandcurtis.co.uk, hackett.com, woolrich.eu, jackspade.com,
字。Geoffrey J Finch,伦敦时尚圈无人不
percivalclo.com, oliverspencer.co.uk,
知、无人不晓的创意总监,以及另类服饰品
universalworks.co.uk,
牌Antipodium的创始人之一,如今这位澳
tombakerlondon.com, sunspel.com
洲人开始为Topshop担任创意设计顾问, 将其前卫美学传播给更多受众。他目前在
48: Top Cat 独领高街
Vogue前任时尚总监Kate Phelan与品牌设
To p s h o p 领 衔 英 国 高 街 时 尚 已 有 几 十
表 示,他 将 会把自有品牌低调、酷感 的时
载。Stephen Doig 有幸与品牌的新创意设
髦风格融入Topshop紧追潮流的单品中。
计顾问Geofrey J Finch对谈
这是令人愉悦的结合。他说: “在澳大利亚
计总监麾下工作。 “这是一个不容错失的机会。”Fi nch
成长中养成的部分漠然态度,同样也符 合 从 历 史 悠 久 的 伟 大百 货 公司,到 邦 德 街
Topshop的气质。又有谁不喜欢安逸和快
上 的 高 街 时 尚 店 铺,许 多 伦 敦 的 造 访 者
乐的感觉呢?我为零售艺术而痴迷,是流
们 心 中都 有 着 特定 拜 访 的商店 或 购 物 区
行文化的追随者。 Topshop是两者的指路
域。Topshop就时常出现在这份清单上。并
明灯,他们寻求合作的时候 我简直 欣喜若
已然成为英式风格的最佳诠释。品牌在全
狂。”
国各地拥有诸多店铺,其中Oxford Circus 的门店堪称旗舰。 从十几 岁 到 六 十 多岁,各 年 龄 段 的 女
F i n c h 的时尚职 业 生涯 始 于A n t i p o dium ,这座另类Soho店铺与展览空间,在 2006年推出自有品牌的服装线。对于没有
性都喜欢来这里购物。Topshop在贩售价
接受过任何正规训练的人而言,这是一份
格实惠的基本款的同时,也提 供充满创意
不错的经验。这个以诙谐版画、幽默细节与
的高街时尚单品,其更通过与Kate Moss,
闹市区休闲风而为人所知的品牌,自那时起
Christopher Kane, Erdem与Celia Birt-
就常被Beth Ditto等一众名流穿戴。
we l l等人的合作系列,来提升产品的潮流
F i n c h 的从伦敦 街头风 格中获得 源源
度。在Topshop挑 选一件外套,已变成与
不断的灵感— —好在他如今可以花费大量
在Harvey Nichols百货挑选单品同样时髦
时间在城市心脏腹地的Oxford Ci rcus工
的事。 现 在品牌 的领导者中出现了一 个 新名
globalblue.com
作。 “伦敦街头各种奇妙的能量,让我在此 流连十多年。”他说。 “任何可以抵御英国
99 漫长、灰暗冬天的力量都不可忽视。”
从追逐潮流款式的青少年,到保守富足
他列举了Pixie Geldof等潮流先锋,以
的祖母辈人物,吸引Finch的正是Topshop
及他在业内一众无可挑剔的时尚老友。当
宽泛的客户群体构成。 “我爱这里广泛的受
Finch需要沉静下来、理清思路寻找设计灵
众, ”他说。 “一切事关心态而非年龄,无论
感的时候, 他会去伦敦北部的Hampstead
是A nt ipodium 还是Topshop ,都强调以
H e at h公园,在美丽的自然环境中来一次
衣着彰显个人风格。”他以将各种受不同风
“振奋精神的远足”。
格影响的单品组合在一起,打造出整体造
Fi nch相信许多人与自己一样,都会深
型的典型英国搭配法为例——譬如将Top-
深铭记第一次在Topshop的牛津街旗舰店
shop礼服与复古外套,传统手包和设计师
中购物的经历。 “当我17岁第一次来伦敦时
鞋款搭配于一身。
造访Topshop。我从来没有见过这样的商
Finch形容Topshop的团队为“设计勇
店。之后当我第一天受聘为Topshop的创
士”。拥有像他这样的创意人才,英国高街
意 设计顾问时,我来到这同一家店里四处
品牌还将独领风骚很长一段时间。
转 悠,为成为这庞大机器上的一个齿轮心
topshop.com, antipodium.com
中倍感自豪。” 体影响,可视为一座里程碑。毕竟,正如他
86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
所指出的,Topshop等一系列品牌 都为支
畅购全球,尊享退税
Finch相信英国高街时尚对于业界的总
持英国设计人才做出了许多努力。 “英国高 街时尚是英伦时尚不可或缺的一部分, ”他
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店
说。“我欣赏 Topshop一直在推动着这股
消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退税
变革— —不仅仅是为顾客们提供更多选择
服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约购物
性,更是在为以Newgen为首的一众新晋人
开销。
才创造机遇。”
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联 (Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错 过?您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商 家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服务, 然后遵循我们简单的退税过程: 1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费,请索要环球蓝联退税表 格(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得 保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时,您需要先去出发城市的海 关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后 再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。 联系方式: taxfree@globalblue.com
PHOTO: CATWAlKinG.COM
+421 232 111 111 最低消费£30 - £50并且节约高达购买价格 11%的税。请注意:最终退款将包含增值税 总额,但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时 现金退税,部分退税点将以退税表格为单位 收取一定数额的手续费。
100 الواهب الجديدة". وما يثي إعجاب Finchهو تن ّوع العملء الذين تستقطبهم متاجر ،Topshopمن مراهقات عاشقات للموضة وجدّات أنيقات. يضيف تعقيباً عل ذلك: "أحب التن ّوع الديوغرا ّف ف عملئنا .إنّها ّ ظل وجود Antipodium مسألة عقل ّي ة وليس عمر،وف ّ تجسد السلوب و Topshopثة تركيز عل اللبس التي ّ الشخص ".ويشي إل الهارة البيطانية ف دمج تأثيات مختلفة ف ّ زي واحد ،عل سبيل الثال ،فستان من Topshopمع معطف ّ ك وحقيبة يد من الطراز القديم وحذاء لص ّمم شهي. كلسي ّ يصف Finchفريق عمل Topshopبـ"محارب تصميم". وبوجود مبدعي مثله ،يكننا أن نفتض أ ّن الشارع الرئيس ف الملكة التحدة سيحمل شعلة البداع لوقت طويل. topshop.com, antipodium.com
86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة
أي شء يضء لندن هي ما أبقان ف الدينة لكث من 10سنواتّ . ظلمة فصل الشتاء الطويل ف بريطانيا هو ق ّوة ل يُستهان بها". كم يعتب Pixie Geldofمثالً أعل له ف مجال الزياء ،إل جانب أصدقائه الشديدي الناقة ف هذا الجال .عندما يحتاج إل الراحة أو إل تصفية ذهنه ليستوحي التصاميم ،يقوم Finch بنزهة منعشة ف الطبيعة الجميلة ف Hampstead Heath شمل لندن. بفضل روعة وت ّيز التجر الرئيس لـ Topshopف Oxford ،Circusيعتقد Finchأ ّن العديد من الشخاص سيتذكرون الرة الول التي تس ّوقوا فيها هنا ،كم حصل معه تاماً" .عندما زرت لندن للمرة الول كنت ف الـ 17من عمري وقصدت متجر أي شء من Topshopللم ّرة الول .ل أكن قد رأيت قط ّ البداعي لدى ذاك القبيل .وبعد يومي الول كمستشار التصميم ّ ،Topshopقمت بجولة ف التجر نفسه وشعرت بفخر كبي لكون جزءا ً من هكذا مؤسسة". يعتب Finchأ ّن تأثي متاجر الشوارع الرئيسية البيطانية أن عل عال الوضة بشكل عام يحدّد العايي القياسيّة .ويشي إل ّ العلمات التجاريّة عل غرار Topshopتبذل قصارى جهدها لدعم الواهب البيطانية ف مجال التصميم .ويتابع قائلً" :يشكّل الشارع الرئيس ف الملكة التحدة جزءا ً ل يتج ّزأ من مجال الزياء سن أن لعبت Topshopدورا ً مفصلياً ف البيطانية .وي ّ تط ّورها ،ليس فقط من خلل الوصول إل العملء ،بل أيضاً عن طريق إطلق مبادرات مثل Newgenتهدف إل احتضان
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فلم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع َ كل سنة؟ ما عليك الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص تسوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ أينم ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الخاصة بنا. خدمة الزبائن ّ للتّصال: taxfree@globalblue.com 111 111 232 +421 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره £50 - £30وادّخر حتّى 11%من ثن مشتياتك .يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري . .ف بعض نقاط الستداد ،يُفرض رسم إضاف محدّد عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
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101 عندما يتعلّق المر بلبس الرجال ،تختلف أساليب الزياء ف لندن مع اختلف الناطق. تقرير Sally McIlhone ت ُع ّد لندن من أبرز الوجهات ف العال ف مجال اللبس الرجاليّة وتتنامى شهرتها عالياً مع ظهور مصممي وألبسة عمل ّية فاخرة
جديدة ف أرجاء الدينة .بدءا ً بصممي القمصان البارعي ف Jermyn Streetوصولً إل محلت اللبس الرجاليّة الفعمة بالحياة ف ،Carnaby Streetناهيك عن التاجر الجديدة الفاخرة ف ،Redchurch Streetل يح َظ الرجال التأنقون الحبّو للموضة بهذا القدر من الهتمم من قبل. أ ّما خيار التقليديي ،شارع ،Jermyn Streetفلطالا اشتهر وتتجسد خبته ف عال الزياء ف تثال Beau بصناعة القمصان ّ Brummellمن القرن التاسع عش ،وهو أحد التأنقي الصليي ف الدينة .من جهة أخرى ،شكّل متجر & Hawes الئوي ،إحدى ركائز شارع Curtisالذي احتفل مؤخرا ً بيوبيله ّ Jermyn Streetلسنوات طويلة .يعتقد Edward ،Smithمدير العلمة لدى ،Hawes & Curtisأ ّن إرث Brummellأث ّر عل العلمات التجاريّة التي توافدت بالقصات والتصاميم، إل هنا .ويقول ف هذا الصدد" :اهت ّم كثيا ً ّ وعكس ذلك عل محيطه .بالتال ،حصد Jermyn Streetهذا التخصص بالسلوب اللقب وبات يض ّم متاجر ل تُع ّد ول تُحص ،منها ّ الرائج وأخرى بالحرف لتقدّم أفضل اللبس والكسسوارات". أ ّما العلمة التجاريّة البيطانية الفاخرة Hackettفكان لديها متجر ف Jermyn Streetلعقدين .يتحدّث مؤسس العلمة Jeremy Hackettبإطراء عن ميّزات شارع التس ّوق" .ل مثيل ف العال لشارع Jermyn Street؛ شارع يل ّبي احتياجات الرجال الذين يحبون التصاميم الكلسيكية من كافة أنحاء العال. يكنك طلب قبعة مص ّممة خصيصاً لك وشاء حقائب بحسب
48: Top Cat التجر البرز لطالا تركت متاجر Topshopبصمتها البارزة عل الوضة البيطانية الراقية .يتحدّث Stephen Doigإل البداعي الجديد ،Geofrey J Finchمستشار التصميم ّ لديها. من التاجر الكبى التاريخية الرائعة إل محلت الزياء التفة ف شارع ،Bond Streetيقصد الكثي من ز ّوار لندن متجرا ً تحتل متاجر محدّدا ً أو منطقة معيّنة لدى التس ّوق .غالباً ما ّ تجسد السلوب البيطا ّن Topshopالولوية .إذ باتت ّ من خلل فروع ف كافة أنحاء البلد ويبقى التجر الكبي ف الساس. Oxford Circusالحور ّ تتس ّوق هنا النساء من كافة العمر ،من مراهقات إل ستّينيّات. ت ُقدِم متاجر Topshopأزيا ًء فاخرة مبتكرة بالضافة إل ملبس بأسعار معقولة ،وتع ّزز موقعها ف عال الزياء من خلل تعاونها مع أمثال Kate Mossو Christopher Kaneو Erdemو .Celia Birtwellوبطبيعة الحال ،أصبح اختيار ملبس من Topshopرائجاً تاماً كاختيار قطع من متاجر Harvey Nicholsالفاخرة. يتدّد اسم جديد ف أرجاء التجر النGeofrey J Finch . اسم معروف ف أوساط الوضة ف لندن بصفته مدير النتاج الؤسس للعلمة التجاريّة الشهية الفنّي والتصميم والشيك ّ .Antipodiumوجدي ٌر بالذكر أ ّن تصاميم هذا البتكر الستال الرائعة ستبلغ جمهورا ً جديدا ً نتيجة تسلّمه منصب مستشار البداعي ف ،Topshopوسيعمل تحت إدارة Kate التصميم ّ Phelanمديرة قسم الزياء السابقة لدى Vogueومدير قسم التصميم لدى العلمة التجاريّة. يقول Finchالذي سيدمج أسلوب علمته التجاريّة البسيط العفوي النيق بقطع Topshopالعصيّة الرائجة" :كانت فرصة ل تف ّوت .فهي ارتباط سعيد .يولّد التعرع ف أستاليا شعورا ً بالتح ّرر كل القيود وهذا ما ي ّيز Topshopأيضاً .ما الذي يكن وتحطيم ّ ألّ يحبّه الرء ف البساطة والرح؟ أنا شغوف بف ّن البيع بالتجزئة وأهوى الثقافة الشعبية .تدمج Topshopالثني وقد غمرتني الفرحة عندما طلبوا مني النضمم إليهم". بدأ Finchمسيته الهنية ف عال الزياء لدى ،Antipodiumالتجر الشهي وصالة العرض ف ،Soho وأطلق مجموعته الول سنة ،2006المر الجيّد بالنسبة إل شخص من دون تدريب رسمي .تشتهر هذه العلمة التجاريّة بنقوشها الذك ّية وتفاصيلها الطريفة وبساطتها وقد ارتداها الكثي من الشاهي ومن بينهم .Beth Ditto يستوحي Finchباستمرار من أسلوب الشارع اللند ّن ،وهذا أمر جيّد با أنه سيمض معظم ساعات عمله ف Oxford Circus ف وسط الدينة .يقول ف هذا الصدد" :الطاقة الرائعة ف شوارع
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة 42: Tribal Dress أزياء لكافة الذواق
PHOTO: Duncan FinDlaTer
عندما يتعلّق المر بلبس الرجال ،تختلف أساليب الزياء ف لندن مع اختلف الناطق. تقرير Sally McIlhone تُع ّد لندن من أبرز الوجهات ف العال ف مجال اللبس الرجاليّة وتتنامى شهرتها عالياً مع ظهور مصممي وألبسة عمل ّية فاخرة جديدة ف أرجاء الدينة .بدءا ً بصممي القمصان البارعي ف Jermyn Streetوصولً إل محلت اللبس الرجاليّة الفعمة بالحياة ف ،Carnaby Streetناهيك عن التاجر الجديدة الفاخرة ف ،Redchurch Streetل يح َظ الرجال التأنقون الحبّو للموضة بهذا القدر من الهتمم من قبل. أ ّما خيار التقليديي ،شارع ،Jermyn Streetفلطالا اشتهر وتتجسد خبته ف عال الزياء ف تثال Beau بصناعة القمصان ّ Brummellمن القرن التاسع عش ،وهو أحد التأنقي الصليي ف الدينة .من جهة أخرى ،شكّل متجر & Hawes الئوي ،إحدى ركائز شارع Curtisالذي احتفل مؤخرا ً بيوبيله ّ Jermyn Streetلسنوات طويلة .يعتقد Edward ،Smithمدير العلمة لدى ،Hawes & Curtisأ ّن إرث Brummellأث ّر عل العلمات التجاريّة التي توافدت بالقصات والتصاميم، إل هنا .ويقول ف هذا الصدد" :اهت ّم كثيا ً ّ وعكس ذلك عل محيطه .بالتال ،حصد Jermyn Streetهذا
التخصص بالسلوب اللقب وبات يض ّم متاجر ل تُع ّد ول تُحص ،منها ّ الرائج وأخرى بالحرف لتقدّم أفضل اللبس والكسسوارات". أ ّما العلمة التجاريّة البيطانية الفاخرة Hackettفكان لديها متجر ف Jermyn Streetلعقدين .يتحدّث مؤسس العلمة Jeremy Hackettبإطراء عن م ّيزات شارع التس ّوق" .ل مثيل ف العال لشارع Jermyn Street؛ شارع يلبّي احتياجات الرجال الذين يحبون التصاميم الكلسيكية من كافة أنحاء العال. يكنك طلب قبعة مص ّممة خصيصاً لك وشاء حقائب بحسب خاصة الطلب .ث ّة أيضاً صالونات حلقة ومحلت لبيع عطور ّ بالرجال .فلم قد يرغب الرجل بالتس ّوق ف مكان آخر؟" وبالرغم من التصاميم الرائعة ف الشارع ،يتّجه محبّو الساليب الكث عصيّة إل مكان آخر. تعود أساليب شارع Carnaby Streetإل الستينيات وحقبة أزياء الهيبي والزياء العصيةّ .أما اليوم فيستقطب شارع Brewer Streetجنوباً و Berwick Streetشقاً الرجال الذين يهوون الوضة ويريدون ثياباً تتم ّيز بلمسة معاصة. وتعقيباً عل ذلك ،يقول Ben Banksمدير البيعات ف " ،Woolrichإن كنت رجلً يهوى النتجات ،فثمة شارع كل ما يستهويك من متاجر ومنتجات .لتبلغ شارع تجد فيه ّ Carnabyما عليك إلّ أن تنطلق من :Brewer Street ستجد داخل متجر Woolrichستات خفيفة الوزن لكن متينة القطني الخطّط .احرص عل أن تكون محطّتك وقمصاناً من النسيج ّ الثانية ف محل Jack Spadeالذي يقدّم منتجات نافعة وأنيقة. تعتقد Melissa Xidesمن متجر Jack Spadeأ ّن العصي بفضل شارع Brewer Streetيستقطب الرجل ّ الخصصة للرجال التي تقدّم منتجات "تن ّوع العلمات التجاريّة ّ مميّزة يبيعها أشخاص شغوفون". إن اتّجهت شق Brewer Streetومن ث ّم استدرت شملً نحو ،Berwick Streetتجد متجر .Percivalفتح هذا الخي أبوابه ف كانون ال ّول/ديسمب 2012ويبيع ملبس رجاليّة مؤسسو Percivalهذا متقنة الصنع ّ مخصصة للرجال .اختار ّ الشارع ليكون الوقع الثا ّل لتجرهم ال ّول بسبب "مركزيّته وتقاليد التجار الستقلّي الراسخة"" .يتميّز شارع Berwick Street بالنزاهة التي أصبحت عملة نادرة ف لندن .كم يتمتّع بتاريخ غني ،وهذا ما نريده لعلمتنا" ،وفق ما أدل به مدير البيعات ثقا ّف ّ .Jacob Sorkin ل يقتص اختيار Berwick Streetعل أصحاب القرار ف Percivalفحسب .إذ اختار Oliver Spencerو Universal Worksافتتاح متاجر لهم ف هذا الشارع التم ّيز إضافة إل متجريهم ف Lamb’s Conduit رئيس آخر للبس الرجال ف لندن الوسطى. ،Streetوهو مركز ّ بعد ذلك اسلك شارع Berwick Streetشملً نحو ،Oxford Streetوانعطف نحو D’Arblay Street حيث ستجد تصاميم مبتكرة لدى .Sir Tom Bakerبعد globalblue.com
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Postcard
FLORIS British beauty brands don’t get more traditional than Floris. When Juan Famenis Floris arrived in London from Menorca in 1730 to work as a barber, he missed the scents of his native Mediterranean so much that he set about recreating them. Floris began by blending oils and essences for clients and his store soon began to stock of-the-shelf fragrances and accessories including shaving brushes and handmade combs. The company went on to hold a number of royal warrants and today Floris is the perfumer to globalblue.com
Queen Elizabeth II and the Prince of Wales. The original Floris store at 89 Jermyn Street in the St James’s area of the city remains at the centre of the family-run company. Floris is keen to preserve its illustrious history while appealing to modern tastes with products such as the new Lavender & Mint home fragrance which is based on the herb garden at Ivy Lodge, the Floris family home in the late 1800s, and has a delightfully fresh and invigorating aroma. irs Floris, 89 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6JH, +44 (0)20 7930 2885, forislondon.com
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Fashion FiRsTs. shoes. sUPeRbRands. TRends. dePaRTmenT sToRes. ChoiCe. LUnCh. sTyLe. FLagshiP sToRes. giFTs. bRiTish design. beaUTy. PeoPLe sPoTTing. Oxford Street is the world’s biggest shopping street. When it happens in fashion, it happens here frst. The biggest stores, the largest range, the latest fashions, a visit to London isn’t complete without a visit to Oxford Street.
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