SHOP Munich SS14

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 29

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit!

München, Maximilianstraße 10, T +49.(0)89.29 12 99 muenchen.max@wempe.de München, Weintraße 11, T +49.(0)89.242 38 06 muenchen.weinstrasse@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

The watch you promised yourself, jewelry that will bring a sparkle to her eyes. Welcome to Bucherer.

For individuals with a passion for the art of jewelry- and watchmaking, there’s a name that stands out: Bucherer, one of Europe’s leading watch and jewelry specialists. With a long, rich tradition, the Swissowned company stocks a wide-ranging collection for people who settle for nothing but the best in terms of precision, quality and creativity. Founded in 1888 and now in

and many more

its third generation, the family-owned company carries an enormous selection of prestige watch brands. Our passion for jewels and jewelry goes back an equally long way. So be sure to take a closer look at the diamond, colored gemstone and pearl creations from Bucherer’s jewelry-makers: the impression they leave will outshine anything else.

Munich Residenzstraße 2 | Residenzstraße 11 Neuhauser Straße 2

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

montblanc boutique munich maximilianstraĂ&#x;e 14 80539 munich tel.: 0 89 - 25 54 67 06 oberpollinger neuhauser strasse 18 80331 munich tel.: 0 89 - 21 66 55 49 www.montblanc.com

montblanc boutique munich maximilianstraĂ&#x;e 14 80539 munich tel.: 0 89 - 25 54 67 06 oberpollinger neuhauser strasse 18 80331 munich tel.: 0 89 - 21 66 55 49

Montblanc Boutique

Montblanc Document Case

Montblanc TimeWalker ChronoVoyager UTC

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours

Montblanc Heritage Collection 1912 Fountain Pen

Montblanc has become purveyors of exclusive products that reflect todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s high demand for quality, design, tradition and master craftsmanship.

T he Oberpollinger depar tment store offers its customers a stunning range of exquisite lifestyle goods spread over 33,000 m 2 of shopping area. Featuring a designer boulevard, prestigious fashion labels, a special concierge service, gourmet specialities as well as anything a discerning customer requires. Visit this exciting world of luxury just waiting to be explored right in the heart of Bavariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital. The department store frst opened its doors in 1905. It has been expanded and continually modernized over the course of its more than 100-year history. Innovative interior plus an exclusive selection of products and services place the Oberpollinger a cut above the rest.

International labels line up like pearls on a string along our unique designer boulevard: Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Dior, Fendi, Burberry, Tod‘s, Mulberry, Longchamp, Ralph Lauren Accessoires and Salvatore Ferragamo. The glamorous names of our accessory boutiques constitute a veritable who‘s who of the fashion world. Once you have reached the end of our designer boulevard, you‘ll fnd Oberpollinger‘s spacious beauty world. Here visitors can enjoy an exclusive treatment in one of the many beauty lounges.

Munich‘s cosmopolitan department store provides fashion labels, international designer brands of women‘s apparel and menswear, undergarments, lingerie and hosiery as well as the season‘s latest footwear trends. In addition, the Oberpollinger ofers an exclusive range of jewelry, watches and fne stationery. Our concierge service at the main entrance is one-of-a-kind in Germany. This is where all your wishes will be fulflled. Whether you would like to book a personal shopper, use a delivery service, order a taxi or fnd a good restaurant for the evening, our service philosophy caters towards our customers‘ every need. On the fourth foor, you will fnd our customer service centre, dealing with your everyday needs, such as tax-free shopping papers for our foreign customers and a money exchange facility.

Our home & living department on the fourth foor boasts a wide selection of products, including designer objects, decorative elements and highquality home textiles. The ever-popular LeBufet restaurant on the ffth foor is the ideal choice for a smart lunch break. The spacious rooftop terrace provides a grand panoramic view over Munich – as well as enjoyment and relaxation galore.

A staf of nearly 600 employees is looking forward to serve more than 20,000 customers from Munich and beyond each day. Welcome to a new era of shopping. Welcome to Oberpollinger.

SERVICES

TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU!

PERSONAL SHOPPER Our Personal Shopper specialists will make your shopping trip to our store into a really unique and wonderful experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences and wishes, showing you gift ideas, sharing the latest news about our store, and letting you know about limited edition products. One call is all it takes for your Personal Shopper to spring into action. The next time you visit Oberpollinger a specially selected range of fashions will await you, perfectly tailored to your particular tastes, size and preferred brands. You can then try everything on at a time arranged to suit you, whilst enjoying a drink in our exclusive, private changing area. For further information, please contact us on +49 (0)89 2902 5120

In addition, the Oberpollinger is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services:

CONCIERGE SERVICE Our concierge service based on the ground foor can organize a chaufeur and delivery service, personal shopping appointments, restaurant & hotel bookings, fower services, and much, much morge: just ask!

GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICES Our expertise is to make even the smallest gift stand out. Arrive with personalised packaging for your gift and our team will be delighted to help you. The packing/gift-wrapping service is in the Service Center on the 4th Floor.

BEAUTY LOUNGES & SERVICES The exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure or a new Make-up, all beauty treatments are carried out at Oberpollinger with total care and professionalism. For further information, contact our customer service.

COMPLIMENTARY WIFI Simply log-in while you are visiting the Oberpollinger and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.

CUSTOMER SERVICES Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your purchase from Oberpollinger, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the 4th foor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you. For further information, please call +49 (0)89 2902 3235.

IN-HOUSE TAILOR Our in-house tailors can change your clothing items and bring them to perfection, regardless of whether these were purchased in Oberpollinger or in other stores. If you have an alteration request, simply tell one of the staf in the clothes department; they will be happy to assist you and organise everything for you.

TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency. TAX FREE

Oberpollinger München ∙ Neuhauser Str. 18 ∙ 80331 München ∙ Tel. +49 (0)89 29 02-30 www.oberpollinger.de ∙ Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm

CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN MUNICH. Kauﬁngerstraße 5 · Kauﬁngerstraße 26 · Pasing Arcaden · 2x Olympia-Einkaufszentrum · Neuhauser Straße 35 (near Stachus) · 2x pep Einkaufs-Center Perlach (Neuperlach) · Riem Arcaden · Weinstraße 6 CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler Straße 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (€ 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. € 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS STAR* limited edition, necklace 585/- gold with brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.25 ct.**

Passion. Made in Germany. The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection. Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

www.christ.de

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Czech Republic Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

ILLUSTRATION: PAUL X JOhNSON

‫دليل ألانيا‬

Welcome to Munich This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Munich has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we also look at Germany’s world-beating sports luxe style (see our feature on page 56) and profle the Nymphenburg porcelain brand (page 70). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 54. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, fnd us on Facebook at Facebook.com/GlobalBlue, follow us on Twitter @GlobalBlue or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd the details on the Global Blue website.

Emma Cheevers globalblue.com

德国指南

Руководство Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

oyster perpetual yacht-master ii

Contributors

PHOTO: ROBERT SHRAM

PHOTO: kATIE WILSON ELL

ILLUSTRATION: JAck HUdSON

Jack Hudson Jack Hudson’s colourful, playful tableaux make him the perfect illustrator for the cover of this edition of SHOP Munich. Inspired by our feature on Germany’s luxe sportswear on page 56, the cover shows the innovation of German sportswear through a narrative scene which depicts Munich as a giant playground for sporting activities. Jack Hudson works in East London and has previously created artwork for M&C Saatchi, the Sunday Times and Brummell, among others. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Karen Munnis Writer and fashion stylist Karen Munnis has contributed to The Hufngton Post, Motilo.com, Fashion magazine and The Globe & Mail. Her stylist clients include Sony, Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model, MTV and the BBC. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, assistant fashion and news editor at SHOP, read English at the University of Oxford before taking an MA in journalism. She has worked for Time Out in the Middle East and produced her own magazine.

Dionne Hélène Dionne Hélène is a graphic designer and sneaker obsessive. She has created work for Nike and the V&A and in her spare time she enjoys illustrating, collecting vintage Ralph Lauren and listening to Action Bronson.

fashion | lifestyle | beauty MUNICH MARIENPLATZ

Welcome to your GALERIA Kaufhof Pure lifestyle shopping – enjoy the perfect shopping adventure and look forward to top brands within our world of goods. Expect an exclusive selection with individual assortments from the worlds of fashion, cuisine and table culture, sport, toys, jewellery, leather and stationery, shoes, books, culinary delights and streetwear in our fashion store U.STYLE. We are looking forward to your visit! Your GALERIA Kaufhof München, Am Marienplatz

GALERIA Kaufhof Kaufinger Str. 1-5 | 80331 Munich Tel.: +49 (0)89 - 231 85 - 0 opening hours: Monday - Saturday: 9.00 a.m. - 8.00 p.m.

S-Bahn (city train) All lines - Station Marienplatz Station (subway) Station Marienplatz, Line U3 and U6 Car park City-Parkhaus, access via Färbergraben

perfect shopping with GALERIA Kaufhof

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

TOMMY HILFIGER STORE WEINSTRASSE 5 MÜNCHEN

T H E WO RLD’ S L A R GE ST

In the heart of Munich HIRMER offers fashion highlights spread over 9,000 m2 of shopping experience. On 6 ﬂoors you will ﬁnd the entire world of menswear with all leading brands:

We would be happy to assist you in English, Spanish, French, Russian and Arabic. Please contact us: +49/89/236 83-211 1 minute from car park Färbergraben

HIRMER GmbH & Co. KG, Kauﬁngerstraße 28, 80331 München Phone: 0 89/ 2 36 83-0, www.hirmer-muenchen.de Opening hours: Mo. til Fr.: 9.30 a. m. til 8 p. m., Sa.: 9 a. m. til 8 p. m. 24h online shop: www.hirmer.de, -Bahn, -Bahn: Marienplatz

Hirmer Menstyle

M E N ’ S F A S HIO N ST O R E

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Jack Hudson Contributor Karen Munnis Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing coordinator Nadine Tillmann Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen-tourist.de SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Carrera 1887

Boutique Munich • Theatinerstraße 44 • Tel. +49 89 25 54 72 90 Boutique Frankfurt • Goethestraße 4 – 8 • Tel. +49 69 13 38 53 26 www.tagheuer.com

München, Bahnhofplatz Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers. Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt M端nchen.

Contents

PHOTO: © ROgeR Riedel

p.64

P rod u c t s 34 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Munich this season 36 My Favourites Furniture designer Nitzan cohen reveals his top Munich tips for spring/ summer 2014 38 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 46 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Munich 48 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F e at u r e s 56 Cover Story: World-Beating Style Germany’s expertise in high-tech, highperformance sports apparel translates smoothly into a whole spectrum of winning fashions, reports stephen doig 64 World’s Fairs Munich’s fashion fairs are an international showcase for the world’s biggest names and for rising stars alike – and they reach beyond the industry itself, writes Karen Munnis 70 The Art Of Porcelain the Nymphenburg company creates not only world-renowned fne china but also modern works of art, as Hannah Lewis discovers Above: Munich’s fashion fairs atract brands from all over the world

e x Pe r i e Nce 76 Raising The Bar Munich’s cocktail bars ofer glamour, sophistication and the talents of expert mixologists. Verity Hogan raises her glass 82 Stay In Style sHoP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels Gu i de 89 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Munich, plus useful information for visitors esseNti a Ls 108 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r a N s L at i o N s 110 Русский Перевод 115 美文翻译 118 日本語翻訳 121 Postca r d 122 sHoP writes home about roeckl’s beautifully crafted gloves

MUNICH

MAXIMILIANSTRASSE 25

ESCADA.COM

+49 89 2199650

canda.com

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices.

visit us on

facebook.com/ca

München Kaufingerstraße 13 • Bayerstraße 21 • Moosach Olympia Einkaufszentrum

canda.com

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

ΎΤဒμ ήΧ Α ΐ έ Ζϧ Ϟϫ ΔοϮϤ ΍ ΕΎΤϴλ ήΧ΃ ΎϨϳΪ ϥϭΪΠΘγ C&A ΕϼΤϣ ϪϣΪ Η ΎϤΑ ΪόδΘγ ΍Ϋ· ϲϓ ϕϮδΘ ΎΑ ΍ϮόΘϤΘΗ ϥ΃ ϻ· ϢϜϴϠϋΎϣϭ Δ ΎϧϹ΍ ΔϤ ϰ · έϮΒδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Ε΍Ϊϴδ ΍ βΑϼϣ Ϧϣ Δόγ΍ϭ ΔϠϴϜθΗ ϰϠϋ ΍ήϜ ΍ ΎϨϨ΋ΎΑί ΎϧΩϮϋ Ϊ ΎϨΗϼΤϣ ϥΎϤΛϷ΍ Ϟπϓ΄Αϭ Δϴ Ύό ΍ ΔϴϋϮϨ ΍ Ε΍Ϋ ΎϔρϷ΍ϭ ΎΟή ΍ϭ

Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N M U N I C H : • Kaufingerstraße 12, 089 - 23241153 • Weinstraße 7, 089 - 25542771 • Theatinerstraße 40, 089 - 295293 • Neuhauser Straße 3, 089 - 149024700

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest assortment of leading beauty brands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

34 | P RO D U C T S

GOLD STANDARD These laser-engraved earrings are created from slender discs of gold and hand-pleated to create a unique three-dimensional shape. The Topia range draws inspiration from vast natural landscapes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the gold pieces are reminiscent of desert sand dunes. A fne matte fnish emphasises the faceted texture, which captures Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

and refects light to create a beautifully soft shimmer. The modern, delicate design of these earrings would perfectly update an elegant black dress, for an alluring evening look that embodies sophisticated glamour. gl Niessing Topia gold earrings, â&#x201A;Ź1,910, Niessing, Sporerstrasse 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6797, niessing.com

PHOTO: MaTTHiaS HOffMann

Check Out

36 | P RO D U C T S

My Favourites: Nitzan Cohen Nitzan Cohen is an acclaimed Munich-based industrial designer. Born in Israel, he fell in love with the notion of creating and defning spaces while working as a sound engineer in a theatre. He graduated from the design academy in Eindhoven, Holland, and worked for many years as a designer and product leader at Konstantin Grcic Industrial Design in Munich before setting up his own studio, where clients have included Diesel, Bree and BMW. He shares some of his favourite items and places with Ximena Daneri nitzan-cohen.com 1

2. ‘My favourite product is our Solo chair in its new blue shade. It’s 100% wooden, with no screws or anything else but wood, produced in northern Italy using only solar power to work the raw wood from the neighbouring forests’ Nitzan Cohen Solo chair, €390, mattiazzi.eu

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

PHOTO: GERHARDT KELLERMANN

1. ‘I always take a good book with me when I travel, currently 1Q84 by Haruki Murakami’

S H O P | 37

3. ‘I always carry a bright yellow Safari fountain pen by Lamy’ Lamy Safari fountain pen, €17.50, Kaut-Bullinger, Rosenstrasse 8, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 238000, lamy.com

4. ‘I love the way Maison Martin Margiela reworks true classics that are otherwise almost not around any more’ Maison Martin Margiela sandals, price on request, Maison Martin Margiela, Maximilianstrasse 34, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2421 1446, maisonmartinmargiela.com

globalblue.com

5. ‘The Schwittenberg fashion and accessories shop is a great place with lovely people with truly great taste!’ Schwittenberg, Hildegardstrasse 2, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9055, schwittenberg.com

38 | P RO D U C T S

BLACK OUT Match the classic combination of denim and leather with innovative, modern accessories for a fresh look

1. Closed leather jacket, €649, Hirmer, Kaufnger Strasse 28, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 236830, closed.com

2. Hermès riding helmet, €640, Hermès, Maximilianstrase 22, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 291 9703, hermes.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

3. Swarovski Crystallium watch, €1,295, Swarovski, Marienplatz 20, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2303 2650, swarovski.com

PHOTO: (2) VICENTE SAHUC

S H O P | 39

PHOTO: (6) PACkSHOTfACTOry

4. Sandqvist Torbjörn travel trunk, €199, Konen, Sendlinger Strasse 3, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 244 4220, sandqvist.net 5. Sony headphones, €200, Media Markt, Drygalski-Allee 31, 81477 Munich, +49 (0)89 780280, sony-europe.com

globalblue.com

6. Cos slip-on shoes, €130, Cos, Weinstrasse 3, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 1774, cosstores.com

7. Diesel jeans, €240, Diesel, Residenzstrasse 3, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 1720, diesel.com

40 | P RO D U C T S

RED HOT Rich hues of maroon, burgundy and oxblood radiate sophistication

1. Triwa watch, €265, Galeria Kaufhof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 231851, triwa.com

3. Etro tie, €560, Etro, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2322 5656, etro.com

2. Montblanc iPhone case, €165, Montblanc, Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6706, montblanc.com Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

4. Victorinox suitcase, €395, Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 290230, victorinox.com 5. Burberry dufel bag, €465, Burberry, Perusastrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 226564, burberry.com

PHOTO: (4) SPeckHard PHOTOgraPHy

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42 | P RO D U C T S

MIDNIGHT MEETING

Navy is a chic alternative to black. Pair with glamorous accessories for a stylish day-to-evening look 1 3

1. Marc Cain dress, €449, Marc Cain, Odeonsplatz 12, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 1250, marc-cain.com

2. Bulgari sunglasses, €448, Bulgari, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 1760, bulgari.com

3. Louis Vuitton bag, €2,300, Louis Vuitton, Residenzstrasse 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 5589 38000, louisvuitton.com 4. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €550, Salvatore Ferragamo, Maximilianstrasse 29, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 0911, ferragamo.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

PHOTO: (2) AnTOniO BArrellA

FA SHION BE AUT Y LIFEST YLE MUSIC

D E PA R T M E N T S T O R E

M A R IE N P L AT Z

M U NI C H

W W W. LU D W I G B EC K .C O M

44 | P RO D U C T S

SUMMER BEATS Turn up the volume this summer in bold brights 1

3. Jimmy Choo high tops, €525, Jimmy Choo, Maximilianstrasse 16, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 5007 7960, jimmychoo.com

2. Jawbone mini Jambox speaker, €193, Media Markt, Einsteinstrasse 130, 81675 Munich, +49 (0)89 413170, jawbone.com

4. Ermenegildo Zegna sunglasses, €209, Ermenegildo Zegna, Maximilianstrasse 11-15, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 7685, zegna.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

5. Siegel tie, €90, Hirmer, Kaufngerstrasse 28, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 236830, sieger.com PHOTO: (3) RicHaRd GReen

1. Massimo Dutti jacket, €135, Massimo Dutti, Theatinerstrasse 8, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2423 1200, massimodutti.com

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PHOTO: JAN SCHUENKE

Shop Window

THE AMAZING MR LAGERFELD Being creative director at two major fashion houses, Chanel and Fendi, would really be enough for most people. But not for Karl Lagerfeld, who somehow fnds the time to run his ever-expanding eponymous fashion line as well. His beautiful concept store, which opened last summer, is a great addition to Munich’s fashion scene, as the German-born designer’s sharp collections lend a new edge to the city’s boutiques. Lagerfeld’s own line has a younger Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

and more casual aesthetic, with punk and grunge proving big infuences, though Lagerfeld’s talent means that what could look like simple streetwear takes on a new level of elegance. Never one to shy away from the limelight, Lagerfeld is fond of self-referencing in his fashion, and each season sees a few pieces sporting illustrations of the man himself. Unusual it may be, but there really is no better motif to be wearing this season – or any season. hl Karl Lagerfeld, Mafeistrasse 5, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2009 5280, karl.com * for map go to page 99

laurel.de Laurèl Store • Theatinerstr.33 • 80333 München • Tel. +49 (0) 89/ 291 90 40

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THE GREAT OUTDOORS One of Europe’s leading functional outdoor apparel brands, Jack Wolfskin stands out for two key reasons. First, the brand is committed to responsible manufacturing and limiting its environmental footprint. Jack Wolfskin is at the forefront of innovative product research, developing the most eco-friendly production methods possible. Second, Jack Wolfskin brings a level of style to outdoor clothing that many brands don’t achieve. This Covent Garden backpack is padded for comfort and insulation, but also streamlined and compact, meaning that, even if you don’t venture of the beaten track, it will look great when you are simply exploring the city. hl Jack Wolfskin, Neuhauser Strasse 29, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2388 9962, jack-wolfskin.com * for map go to page 92

PRIME PRODUCTS When it comes to men’s shoes, Prime’s designers are experts. Widely known and appreciated in Germany, all Prime Shoes footwear is handmade and Goodyear welted, making each pair seriously hardwearing. In addition, care is taken to ensure the shoes are comfortable, shock-absorbing and well insulated to guard Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

against cold or wet weather. Choose from fve diferent collections, including the premium range, which is made using French and Italian leathers combined with a sturdy sole, fts even wider feet perfectly, and is produced on traditional Viennese lasts. irs Prime Shoes, Residenzstrasse 27, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0488, prime-shoes.com * for map go to page 97

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STONE ISLAND’S NEW STORE

PHOTO: © DANIEL SCHVARCZ

Stone Island has opened its second German fagship on Munich’s Maximilianstrasse. Stone Island is known for its innovative and technically brilliant menswear and appreciated by those who roam the great outdoors as well as the city streets. The new Munich store is home to the main collection as well as the Stone Island Junior range and the Stone Island Shadow project. Like the brand’s clothes, the Maximilanstrasse store has been constructed with function in mind and includes a glass wall with elements taken from the sailing world. Whether you’re heading out on big adventures or just busy in the city, visit to stock up for the season ahead. irs Stone Island, Maximilianstrasse 27, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2307 6249, stoneisland.com

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THE HAMPTONS COME TO MUNICH Gant is a master of preppy American style. The new Munich fagship store, housed in one of the city’s historic buildings, built in 1369, is a celebration of the brand’s 60 years of success and showcases its latest collections. The new boutique covers three foors, allowing plenty of room to showcase Gant’s extensive collections of menswear, womenswear, children’s clothing and homeware. The interior is designed to evoke the atmosphere of a house in the Hamptons and visitors will feel very much at home while they browse the range, which includes Gant by Michael Bastian and Rugger. Look out for the in-store art exhibition space, which displays the works of young, up-and-coming artists. irs Gant, Sendlinger Strasse 10, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2322 5731, gant.com * for map go to page 93

TRAVELLING COMPANION Porsche Design’s P’6752 WorldTraveler watch is designed with travellers in mind, simultaneously showing the time back home and the time where you are located, allowing you to switch from time zone to time zone easily and frequently. Porsche is not just a luxury car maker, but also a company committed to great design across the board, and the Porsche Design wing of the brand, founded in 1972, ofers functional and timeless design without fuss. The design team believes in stripping items from writing tools to leather goods to luxury timepieces back to their functional cores, before rebuilding and redesigning. The results are beautiful yet uncomplicated pieces whose form does not distract attention from the cutting-edge manufacturing techniques. The P’6752 WorldTraveler epitomises Porsche Design and is a watch to take with you around the world. hl Porsche Design Store, Dienerstrasse 17, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2101 9735, porsche-design.com * for map go to page 95 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

windsor.de

windsor. Store, DienerstraĂ&#x;e 16, Munich

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MUNICH WELCOMES BRAUN BÜFFEL

PHOTO: BERNHARD HASELBECK

Situated in a prime position in Munich’s elegant Hofstatt shopping centre, a former publishing and printing house, Braun Büfel’s new store is the ideal place to get to know this German leather goods specialist better. The spacious store stocks the full Braun Büfel range, including the sought after Premium and Classic women’s ranges. Committed to using only the fnest leathers and craftsmanship, the 125 year-old family business has begun a new and exciting chapter. irs Braun Büfel, Hofstatt, Sendlinger Strasse 12A, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2323 0700, braunbufel.com

PICTURE PERFECT Max Dietl is known and loved by Munich locals for its impeccable service and for bringing some of the world’s most glamorous designers to the city. The beautiful, centrally located boutique occupies four foors and is home to the latest womenswear from designers including Zuhair Murad, Jenny Packham Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

and Akris, while its menswear line features the likes of Brioni, Kiton and Stefano Ricci. Take advantage of the boutique’s outstanding tailoring and bespoke service to ensure your purchase is picture perfect. irs Max Dietl, Residenzstrasse 16, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 224166, maxdietl.com * for map go to page 97

DE.GANT.COM/STOREFINDER

GANT FL AGSHIP STORE MÜNCHEN HOFSTAT T – SENDLINGER STR ASSE 10

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SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offline use. If you’re looking for something specific, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

PERFECT CIRCLES This season, we’re very taken with these eye-catching rings from Christ’s own collection. Made out of yellow gold and set with a choice of stones including citrine and amethyst, they will add a rich and vibrant burst of colour to any look. Founded in 1863, Christ is one of Germany’s most trusted jewellers, with stores located across the country. Christ is known for its thoughtful edit of the latest jewellery and timepieces from Burberry, DKNY, Fossil, Gucci and Michael Kors, to name just a few of the highend brands it stocks. irs

Christ, Kaufngerstrasse 5, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 267753, christ.de * for map go to page 94

THE ART OF ACCESSORIES Munich brand Souve works with artists to create a collection of small leather goods, scarves and tote bags that are fast attracting a host of fashionable fans. The fagship Munich store is much like an ofbeat department store, stocking Souve’s full range alongside some of its favourite brands, from books to olive oil. Souve was founded in 2011 by a group of local creatives, whose commitment to only selling well-made products produced in limited quantities is a breath of fresh air. irs Souve, Brunnstrasse 7, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 6151 2455, souve.net

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

Munich: NeuturmstraĂ&#x;e 5

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Germany’s expertise in hightech, high-performance sports apparel translates smoothly into a whole spectrum of winning fashions, reports Stephen Doig

WORLDBEATING STYLE

When it comes to high-octane, highperformance sports brands, it’s striking to note just how many are German. From Adidas and Puma to the various German fashion labels which have embraced the sporting look in their designs, the dynamism of sportswear is particularly strong in Germany. German brands are particularly technically adept – if this were a marathon, Germany would be racing ahead. Given the supremacy of Adidas in the world of sports attire, it’s surprising that the label’s frst shoes were made in the laundry room of a home in a remote Bavarian town. Adidas, frst known by the less catchy name Gebrüder Dassler Schufabrik, was founded by Adolf Dassler, later joined in the business by his brother Rudolf. Adolf Dassler had worked in a local shoe factory and the brothers made rubber sports shoes using pedal-powered equipment. In 1936, Adolf Dassler persuaded US sprinter Jesse Owens to wear Gebrüder Dassler Schufabrik sneakers in the summer Olympics in Berlin, where the athlete won four gold medals. The unique factor? The label’s innovative technological advances. Due to the brothers’ increasingly sour relationship, in 1948 the company split; Adolf renamed his part of Above: Russian caption xxxxx qui offciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi q

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PHOTOS: (BOTTOM) ADIDAS AG/STUDIO; (TOP) MICHAEL JONES WALDECK

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it Adidas, and Rudolf founded a competitor that would become as substantial as Adidas: Puma. The split was bitter and the residents of their home town, Herzogenaurach, became known as ‘bent necks’ because they looked down at people’s feet to see which label they favoured – and thus which side of the feud they had taken. Screw-in studs were a novelty when Adidas applied them to the soles of lightweight football boots for the 1954 World Cup. They aided grip and fexibility, and went on to become standard for footballing footwear. Part of the development of Adidas footwear involved consulting athletes about their needs and adapting designs as required. Today Adidas outfts countless teams and sportspeople and the name is woven into sporting history. The company remains as passionate as ever about developing intelligent technology that works to absorb impact and provide cushioning; in 2013, it devised ‘energy capsules’ that are embedded

A German culture of connoisseurship has grown up around sports pieces

Previous and above (top): Adidas Energy Boost trainers utilise ‘energy capsule’ technology Above: Adidas boots like these were worn by footballer Horst Eckel prior to and during the Fifa World Cup in Switzerland, 1954

Above (from lef): Wunderkind; MCM (all spring/summer 2014)

in Adidas soles and are designed to store energy and return it to the runner. Puma has also gone on to become a benchmark for experimentation and style, collaborating with the world’s leading sporting stars and fashion brands. Germany’s leadership in sports attire is, at least in part, founded on these two world-beating brands. This leadership in high-performance sportswear has led to a notably strong sporting infuence on every aspect of German style. Street style, including the sporting look, is an integral part of Germany’s prominence in international fashion, thanks in no small part to the biannual Bread & Butter trade show in Berlin, which celebrates street and sports fashion. In the Mitte district of the city, cutting-edge fashion boutiques are found next to sports emporiums such as Puma and Adidas. Bread & Butter’s ofces are even found above the city’s Adidas store; the fusion of sports labels with innovative fashion, such as wearing a pair of Adidas sneakers with a Raf Simons skirt, is efortless and natural. As Karl-Heinz Müller, the organiser of Bread & Butter, notes:

PHOTOS: (rigHT) grAND ViSiONS

PHOTO: giO STAiANO/NOWFASHiON

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Sportswear has always been inherent to German style, from functional to high fashion ‘Because Berlin has never been a big fashion capital, we’ve had to stand out in other ways, and the natural evolution of that is that we specialise in streetwear and sportswear.’ A culture of connoisseurship has grown up around sports pieces. This focus on sports has trickled naturally into Germany’s luxury fashion labels. Michael Michalsky, creative director of Munich-based label MCM, has helped turn the sneaker into a cult status item with his branded high-tops in zinging acid shades. Escada has similarly embraced a dynamic aesthetic with its Sport line, which ofers clean-cut polo-shirts and insulated jackets and gilets for spring. Even its mainline dresses and blouses come with sportsinspired accents such as zips and buckles.

At Hugo Boss, it’s a similar story – neat, lightweight sweatpants and tops with insulating webbing and racing-inspired jackets feature, and it’s no coincidence that Jenson Button is the face of the brand. At Wunderkind, German style titan Wolfgang Joop’s highfashion ofshoot label, the aesthetic is artful and quirky, but the sports infuence is still felt keenly in vests for spring covered in baseballstyle lettering and sporty stripes. Sportswear has always been inherent to Germany’s style culture and the country’s top brands, from the functional to the high fashion, continue that heritage adidas.com, mcmworldwide.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com, wunderkind.com

Above (from lef): Escada Sport spring/summer 2014; Hugo Boss Sport autumn/winter 2013/14 campaign featuring Jenson Buton

VIKTUALIENMARKT 4 · 80331 MÜNCHEN · 089 - 21 58 0869

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Munich’s fashion fairs are an international showcase for the world’s biggest names and for rising stars alike – and they reach beyond the industry itself, writes Karen Munnis

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Above: Premium fashion fair, Munich spring/summer 2014

PHOTO: © ROgeR Riedel

WORLD’S FAIRS

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International catwalk shows garner a great deal of press, street-style blog coverage and endless after-party exposure. Fashion fairs are under the radar in comparison â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and yet they are a crucial juncture in the design-to-store journey. Munich is now leading the way as a must-visit destination for international designers, brands and buyers with its collection of seasonal fashion fairs.

Textiles and trend forecasting merge at Munich Fabric Start, a biannual fabric, trim and accessories fair. Founded in 1996, the fair is held each year in February and September and has become one of the leading international fabric exhibitions. The February 2014 event focuses on products and trends for the spring/ summer 2015 season and features over 950 exhibitors. Returning brands include Italian

BRANDS Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...

textile company Marzotto, crystal giant Swarovski and button manufacturer Union Knopf, and the event attracts leading brands such Gucci and Tommy Hilfger, who seek out their latest textiles at the event. ‘Our approach is to provide an optimal business platform that’s complemented by a comprehensive information and inspiration pool,’ says Claudia Gossen, Munich Fabric Start’s marketing and communications director. Trend forecasting plays an integral part at Munich Fabric Start. Worldwide trend forecasting company WGSN is the ofcial trend partner, whilst companies such as Pantone, Promostyl and Trend Union lead presentations and seminars in TrendLab, an area dedicated to inspiration. Various daring fabric innovations were most likely frst spotted at this fair. Alongside more traditional textiles, Munich Fabric Start also features fabric brands that are known for ecological designs and new denim technologies. The high-end, directional fashion market is covered by Munich Fashion Company’s series of seasonal trading fairs. Launched in 2007, the fairs have grown to include separate womenswear, menswear and childrenswear

PHOTO: BORRIS MAYER

PHOTO: MUNICHFABRICSTART

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events and, in 2010, expanded to include a sister fair, Supreme in Düsseldorf. The largest of the Munich Fashion Company’s fairs is Munich Fashion Women, where over 700 collections are presented to the trade. This spring, German designers such as Guido Maria Kretschmer and Meindl Fashion appear alongside superstar international brands that include Blumarine, Missoni, Roberto Cavalli and MM6 Martin Margiela. Senior sales manager Aline Schade ensures that each season the event, a combination of catwalk shows and displays, continues to grow. ‘We take care of everything – the selection of collections, service providers and the location. Everything has to ft perfectly together. The right mix of exhibitors and ambience make the two order platforms in Düsseldorf and Munich very desirable,’ says Schade. International brands are equally attracted to this fair. ‘Munich is the most important and relevant location for selling top fashion brands, not only because retailers love to come to Munich, but also because of its geographic location,’ says Friederike Hegemann, head of PR and marketing at Munich Fashion Company. ‘German retailers and exhibitors

Above (from lef): Munich Fabric Start fashion fair spring/summer 2014; Supreme fashion fair, Düsseldorf

PHOTO: BORRIS MAYER

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appreciate the attendance of visitors from neighbouring countries like Austria and Switzerland.’ Munich Fashion Women runs for two weeks, and this year, Munich Fashion Company also launched a new service: its Private Order Suites, where buyers and manufacturers can set up temporary showrooms outside the fair dates. The fair may be an industry-only event, but it isn’t all about trading. With sponsors such as luxury car manufacturer Maserati on board, guests are shuttled around the city in style and, similar to international fashion weeks, there are indeed after-parties – this year at Munich hot spot P1. ‘The general vibe of the event is certainly that business is combined with the best service for exhibitors and visitors. Some say that it is like being part of a family,’ says Hegemann. Premium, which launched in 2003, holds seasonal fairs in Berlin, Munich and Düsseldorf. While the largest of its events is in Berlin – housed in the Station, a former postal freight depot at Gleisdreieck with over 60,000 visitors and 1500 collections – the Munich fair combines womenswear, menswear, accessories, shoes and denim. Premium’s philosophy is to shine a spotlight on new talent – at least 25% of Above: Munich Fashion Company’s MTC children’s fashion show

Munich’s fashion fairs make the city a must-visit destination for international designers and brands the exhibitors each season are new brands or unique design innovations. Both fairs reach beyond the fashion industry. Munich Fashion Company integrates the larger business community by hosting dinners each season with local politicians and businesspeople, while Premium holds an annual international window-dressing competition whose winners are voted for by the public. Munich’s fashion events are more than industry-only afairs – they showcase the diversity and vibrancy of German fashion munichfabricstart.com, munichfashioncompany.com, premiumexhibitions.com

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The Nymphenburg company creates not only world-renowned fne china but also modern works of art. Hannah Lewis discovers an exciting fusion of traditional production and contemporary creativity

THE ART OF PORCELAIN

A palace is an unusual setting for a porcelain manufacturer, but the baroque Nymphenburg palace in Bavaria’s capital city has been a worthy home for the porcelain company of the same name since the early 1760s. Commitment to great craft created Nymphenburg’s frst successes, and for CEO Anders Thomas this is still the crux of the company. ‘Nymphenburg is the last place where all products are entirely made by hand… That is what makes us special,’ he says. Nymphenburg’s manufacturing process has, indeed, changed little since the

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18th century. Equipment is still powered by water from the streams of the estate, paste is made from scratch by in-house artisans, and, while techniques may have been refned over the years, they remain in essence the same as they have always been. As Thomas explains, ‘Manu factum [making by hand] means in Nymphenburg what it always did.’ Much of Nymphenburg’s reputation is founded on this commitment to tradition, as a visit to the factory proves. Vast archives hold the moulds of thousands of past creations, most Lef: Gareth Pugh redesigned the Capitano Spavento fgure from the Commedia Dell’Arte Nymphenburg collection

of which are still available as custom orders. The palace setting is a constant reminder of the brand’s heritage, as is the stunning collection of past works held in the Bäuml Collection at the Museum of Nymphenburg Porcelain. Certainly the house has a fond and enduring attachment to the past. But without a simultaneous commitment to the new, Nymphenburg would not be the company it is today. 1754 was a defning year for Nymphenburg, as the employment of sculptor Franz Anton Bustelli led to a new focus on artistic design that would take it from strength to strength. In his short time at the company, the talented artist was nothing if not prolifc, producing around 150 beautiful designs for porcelain fgurative ornaments, many of which are still in use today. Perhaps the most famous of these are the 16 Commedia Dell’Arte fgures, rococo ornaments depicting characters from the 16th-century theatre style of the same name. The intense detail and vibrancy of these characters made them an instant hit and it was these fgures that frmly established Nymphenburg as an international standardbearer for the art of porcelain. For Bustelli and his colleagues, innovation and experimentation were necessary additions to the skill and craft of Nymphenburg if the company was to prosper. Fast-forward over

PHOTO: fraNk sTOlle

PHOTO: Wilfried Hösl

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Nymphenburg is not only embracing modern art but also actively creating it, which makes the brand particularly exciting

250 years and the same idea remains at the heart of the business. For Anders Thomas, an ‘intense interplay between art and craft’ is essential to any new project’s success, and certainly Nymphenburg has spent much time delving into the varied word of contemporary art, incorporating the modern into its rich traditions. The fgures of the Commedia Dell’Arte are just one of many archive pieces to fnd themselves reimagined through the eyes of

Above (from lef): Nymphenburg castle; all Nymphenburg products are made entirely by hand

Zeichen & Wunder, Munich

Your sports brand store for football, sneaker and style.

SPORT MÜNZINGER MUNICH – RIGHT AT MARIENPLATZ

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contemporary artists. As part of the limitededition Couture range, the characterful fgurines were recently redesigned and re-dressed by some of the world’s top fashion houses, including Vivienne Westwood, Gareth Pugh and Elie Saab. Pugh’s design is particularly representative of the injection of modernity, the fgure of Capitano Spavento becoming almost abstract, cloaked in the designer’s trademark geometric shapes. Soon after the Couture editions, Nymphenburg once again referenced the world of fashion in its Romeo and Juliet collection, though here the primary inspiration was an opera – Vincenzo Bellini’s I Capuleti e I Montecchi. Inspired by the costumes designed by Christian Lacroix for the 2011 production at the Nationaltheater in Munich, Nymphenburg presented a limited-edition collection of golddecorated porcelain jewellery. Like Nymphenburg, haute couture and opera as art forms have stood the test of time because of their ability to remain relevant as times change. For Nymphenburg, there are

still boundaries to be pushed. The Fairytale Recordings, a collaboration with artist Saâdane Aff, introduced eight new vases into the limited-edition series. Yet there was much more to the project than this. Aff is known for his interdisciplinary work and the project saw him gathering song texts from various artists, which were then spoken and ‘sealed’ into the vases. The fgures that topped the vases both inspired and were inspired by the performance of actress and opera singer Katharina Schrade, whose conceptual enactment accompanied the unveiling of the collection. Evidently, Nymphenburg is not only embracing modern art but also actively creating it. Members of the creative team at Nymphenburg are frst and foremost artists, and this is what makes the brand so exciting. As Thomas explains, Nymphenburg aims to create ‘a space for experimentation… opening up new perspectives, consistently advancing existing methods of manufacture, and shifting the limits of what’s possible even further.’ nymphenburg.com

Above (from lef): original design of a Nymphenburg Commedia Dell’Arte porcelain fgure; The Fairytale Recordings Nymphenburg porcelain vases are topped with a fgure inspired by opera singer Katharina Schrade

SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN for EVERYONE

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Raising the BaR Munich’s cocktail bars ofer glamour, sophistication and the talents of expert mixologists. Verity Hogan raises a glass to a selection of the very best Munich may have a reputation for beer and bratwurst but there is far more to this urbane city’s nightlife than meets the eye. The city is able to strike the perfect balance between modernity and traditional Bavarian grandeur, ofering everything from sophisticated cocktail bars to beer gardens celebrating their bicentenaries. Munich’s relatively small size means most of its surprisingly diverse bars are within easy walking distance of each other. Whether you are looking to venture back in time at a Prohibition-inspired speakeasy, relax in an elegant hotel bar or explore an experimental cocktail menu, there is guaranteed to be a venue to suit. attention to detail pervades and characteristic German competence is showcased in the talents of the country’s expert mixologists. globalblue.com

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PHOTO: ÂŠ BIRKENHOLZ

Goldene Bar Goldene Bar combines period sophistication with a relaxed, speakeasy ambience and soft lighting that bathes patrons in a warm, golden glow. The bar frst opened in 1937 and still retains original features from this era, including spectacular map-based murals by artist Karl Heinz dallinger. The vast cocktail menu runs to more than 20 pages and features a mixture of classic and more modern concoctions; house cocktail der Goldene Bartini combines gin with orange bitters and lemon zest while the sharp Vanilla Punch serves up a kick with its mix of cognac, fresh lemon and homemade vanilla syrup. Goldene Bar, Haus der Kunst, Prinzregentenstrasse 1, 80538 Munich, +49 (0)89 5480 4777, goldenebar.de

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SChuMann’S bar no trip to Munich would be complete without a stop at the legendary Schumann’s bar. Owner Charles Schumann’s distinctive cocktail creations have cemented this citycentre bar’s international standing and attract discerning cocktail connoisseurs from all over the world. The majority of the menu refects

The MarTini Club references to the roaring 20s can be found throughout Munich’s Prohibition-inspired Martini Club. The speakeasy-style interior is dominated by a 10-metre-long bar and scenes of partygoers from past eras on the walls are illuminated by ice-blue lights. The drinks selection is as distinctive as the décor; the globalblue.com

Schumann’s personal passion for Campari, although his love of the Orient is also evident in the wide selection of sake-based cocktails on ofer. Despite Schumann’s reputation for innovative concoctions, the bar itself has a classic feel, with green marble accents and dark wood panelling throughout. Schumann’s Bar, Odeonsplatz 6-7, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 229060, schumanns.de

Kentucky Sunshine ofers a refreshing mix of Southern Comfort, peach brandy and a splash of strawberry syrup, while Death by Chocolate’s combination of Frangelico, baileys, Malibu and vanilla ice cream is ideal for indulging a sweet tooth. The Martini Club, Theresienstrasse 93, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 5201 2924, the-martini-club.de

PHOTO: © CHRISTIAN BULLINGER

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Pusser’s Ba r

Fa l k’s Ba r

Pusser’s Bar’s nautical associations quickly become apparent when admiring the space’s décor and drinks menu. Wood-panelled walls and a Caribbean fshing boat hanging above the bar add to the ambience while the venue itself takes its name from the world’s oldest rum. This famous spirit is also the primary component in Pusser’s signature cocktail, the Painkiller, where it is combined with a tropical selection of pineapple juice, orange juice and coconut cream. The atmosphere is relaxed and the live entertainment hosted in the basement at the weekend is an added perk. Pusser’s Bar, Falkenturmstrasse 9, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 220500, pussersbar.de

Displaying an inherent glamour seldom found in hotel bars, Falk’s bar ofers sophisticated décor and an extensive cocktail selection. The bar is named after Falk Volkhardt, a former owner of the Bayerischer Hof hotel, and is set within the hotel’s mirrored ballroom, which was built in 1839. Cocktail enthusiasts are well-served by the diverse selection on ofer; incorporating every spirit base imaginable, the menu ranges from timeless classics to daring new inventions. Falk’s Bar, Bayerischer Hof, Promenadeplatz 2-6, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 0956, bayerischerhof.de

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KONEN ofers inspiration, lifestyle, fashion and more for women, men and kids. Discover our assortment on 6 floors. You will fnd KONEN in the city center of Munich, next to the newly created pedestrian area „Sendlinger Straße“. Our customer service for you: express alterations and TaxFree shopping. We are looking forward to your visit!

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Stay in Style

PHOTO: Neale James

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most up-and-coming city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering stateof-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

Sanctum Soho The Sanctum Soho hotel is an oasis of calm, comfort and sophistication in the heart of London’s West End. Two Georgian town houses have been converted into a sumptuous boutique hotel, which boasts an ideal location close to the city’s shopping and entertainment districts. The hotel pays homage to Soho’s history as a hub of artistic and bohemian life globalblue.com

with a décor that celebrates edgy glamour and individuality. From the underground cinema to the rooftop terrace with covered lounge and 24-hour bar, the facilities on ofer cater to guests’ every desire. Be sure to admire the frequently updated artworks that can be found throughout the hotel. Sanctum Soho, 20 Warwick Street, London W1B 5NF, +44 (0)20 7292 6100, sanctumsoho.com

PHOTO: JOsHua sT JOHN

S H O P | 83

the WeStbury hotel The Westbury hotel boasts a central location, within walking distance of Dublin’s main attractions, luxurious facilities and exceptional service. Every room is modern and well appointed, ofering everything from customdesigned furnishings to premium bathroom products, while staf are on hand 24 hours a day to cater to your every need. The hotel’s

amenities are equally alluring; start your day with a full Irish breakfast at the Wilde restaurant, enjoy afternoon tea in the gallery, surrounded by Irish works of art, or try one of the expertly mixed cocktails in the Marble Bar – a popular venue for locals and visitors alike. The Westbury Hotel, Grafton Street, Dublin 2, +353 (0)1 679 1122, doylecollection.com

84 | E X P E R I E N C E

Pera Palace Hotel JumeiraH Famous guests such as Agatha Christie, Greta Garbo and Alfred Hitchcock have stayed at the Pera Palace Jumeirah, which still captivates visitors today. Sample an Apple Fantasy tea and a Paristanbul pastry at the Patisserie globalblue.com

de Pera and be sure to visit the sumptuous Agatha Restaurant and Orient Bar, inspired by Christie’s legacy, during your stay. The hotel’s tranquil spa provides a haven of calm after a day visiting Istanbul’s bustling bazaars and luxury malls. Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Meçrutiyet Caddesi 52, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, +90 (0)212 377 4000, jumeirah.com

S H O P | 85

Pension aviano Pension Aviano radiates Viennese charm, ofering a warm welcome to all its guests, with a family team of staf on hand to provide a personalised service. The Aviano is found in Viennaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s old town, set within a converted patrician house dating back to the GrĂźnderzeit era. There are only 17 rooms and privacy

is assured as there is no hotel restaurant or bar. Every room features a host of modern amenities, including en-suite bathrooms, hairdryer, telephone, safe, television, minibar and free Wi-Fi. Guests with pets are welcome. Pension Aviano, Marco dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aviano-Gasse 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 8330, secrethomes.at

86 | E X P E R I E N C E

My Weekend Munich is best known for playing host to the annual Oktoberfest beer festival, serving rich Bavarian cuisine in traditional taverns and ofering a shopping scene to rival that of any European city. SHOP’s associate Russian editor Daria Orlova spends a weekend discovering the city’s lesserknown delights and experimenting with vegetarian dining

Englischer Garten

Prinz Myshkin

Alte Pinakothek

‘Despite the high reputation of Bavarian cuisine, I was keen to explore a diferent side of Munich’s restaurant scene. Prinz Myshkin proves that a meat-free menu can be as delicious as any other. The vast selection ofers everything from spicy soya vindaloo to Japanese buckwheat noodles.’

‘No visit to Munich would be complete without a visit to the Alte Pinakothek. The museum plays host to some of Europe’s most acclaimed artistic works, boasting more than 700 pieces by international artists including Albrecht Dürer, Peter Paul Rubens and Leonardo da Vinci.’

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 108

PHOTO: DARIA ORLOVA

‘While exploring the city I was keen to get some fresh air in the Englischer Garten. One of the world’s largest city parks, it ofers something for everyone, whether they’re looking for action on the football felds and boating lake or relaxing with a cold drink in the 7,000-seater beer garden.’

S H O P | 87

Prinzregententheater ‘On my fnal evening in the city I made sure to visit the Prinzregententheater, which ofers a diverse programme of events, ranging from

grand operatic performances to intimate chamber orchestra recitals. I was particularly impressed by its opulent art nouveau interior and the excellent views, even from the seats farthest from the stage.’

DIRECTORY Schwittenberg, Hildegardstrasse 2, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9055, schwittenberg.com Alte Pinakothek, Barer Strasse 27, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2380 5216, pinakothek.de

Schwittenberg ‘I can never resist a concept store and Schwittenberg boutique’s keen range of directional fashion certainly did not disappoint me. The store stocks some of the world’s most avant-garde designer labels ensuring visitors looking for a show-stopping outft won’t leave disappointed; choose among collections from names such as APC, Acne, Dries Van Noten, Isabel Marant Etoile and Comme des Garçons.’

globalblue.com

Prinz Myshkin, Hackenstrasse 2, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 265596, prinzmyshkin.com * for map go to page 92 Prinzregententheater, Prinzregentenplatz 12, 81675 Munich, +49 (0)89 218502, prinzregententheater.de

L CIa

P OP * H S SS PA

ING

like shopping? LOVE OUTLETCITY! OVER 60 PREMIUM BRANDS IN FLAGSHIP OUTLETS REDUCED BY UP TO 70 %**

In Hugo Boss’ home town, just two hours from Munich, OUTLETCITY METZINGEN offers you a unique and stylish shopping experience in modern inner-city surroundings with exclusive flagship outlets, prize-winning architecture and tax-free shopping. Exclusive events and monthly themes like Active Weeks, Cosmopolitan Travel, Ladies Night or After Work Shopping make your visit to OUTLETCITY METZINGEN a unique experience all year. * Show this ad at the Tourist Information Metzingen, get your personal Shopping Pass and beneft from exclusive additional discounts of 10 % at participating stores. Valid until 30.09.2014 ** Compared to the manufacturer’s previous RRP

ARMANI . BALLY . BURBERRY . COACH . ESCADA . HACkETT . HUGO BOSS . LACOSTE . MAx MARA . MICHAEL kORS . NIkE . POLO RALPH LAUREN . SwAROVSkI and many more

G U I D E | 89

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Munich with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/munich or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

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Featured In This Issue

SHOP Recommendation

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heels or performance-enhancing sneakers. the store also stocks a number of the world’s most sought-after brands, including pieces by Birkenstock, Converse, Pretty Ballerinas, ugg and Vagabond. Bartu, Sendlinger Strasse 31, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 5401 7776, bartu.com

PHOTO: BENNO HELLER & IBO KOESE

Bartu’s bold multi-coloured logo makes its stores instantly recognisable; the company was founded in Munich in 1953 and has become known for its vast, fashion-forward, footwear range. It’s the perfect place to fnd all the latest shoe styles, whether you are searching for neon patent pumps, peep-toe

R O S E N TA L

Bartu

Marienplatz

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94 | G U I D E

Max KRuG

The cuckoo clocks lining the walls are the most popular item in the store; maintaining centuries-old traditions, each clock is handassembled and no two are exactly alike. Max Krug, Neuhauser Strasse 2, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 224501, max-krug.com * for map go to page 92

a bastion of tradition, Max Krug ofers typically Bavarian souvenirs, the majority of which are produced in the Black forest. The charming store is flled from foor to ceiling with shelves stacked with cuckoo clocks, music boxes, nutcrackers and beer steins.

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Featured In This Issue

U-Bahn

Department Store

Shopping Centre

S H O P | 95

Kauf Dich GlücKlich This quirky store is one of Munich’s most intriguing. Kauf Dich Glücklich aims to make its customers smile with a selection of fashion items, bags, shoes and accessories, accompanied by sweet treats. The emphasis is on Scandinavian and Berlin-based designers. after an afternoon of shopping, indulge in a warm wafe with ice-cream, chocolate sauce and a sprinkling of toasted almonds. Kauf Dich Glücklich, Reichenbachstrasse 14, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 9269, kaufdichgluecklich.de

Marienplatz

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F.X.RIEDERER ●

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RS TR P E T Z W IL L IN . M Ü HIT B AT E A G ● LHÄ U ● USE R WEM ● PE WMF ● ● DOU G L A WO L FOR S ● D● TO M M Y H C H R IS T IL F IG ● ER ● N IE S MÜN S IN G CO S ● ● ● GE CHNER SCH ENK ● RO E -S T ECK SPO UBE L RTH PA R N AU S F Ü MER BRÜ MÜN IE C Z IN G HOF ● BU KNER JUW E R● B L IT & E L IE Z ● OP THO R CARL T IK H MAS ÖRT S KO R V IC T H . B IE B L ● N O R IN ● OX ●

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96 | G U I D E

VIKTUALIENMARKT

Poseidon

F R AU ENST R A SSE

GRüne eRde Grüne erde promotes an eco-friendly way of life, stocking fashion, beauty products and homeware crafted from natural, renewable, non-toxic and pollution-free materials. The majority of items sold are manufactured in Austria and Germany to reduce the company’s carbon footprint while

Global Blue Retailer

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SHOP Recommendation

Featured In This Issue

TA L

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the products’ high quality and guaranteed durability reduces the need for replacements. Grüne erde’s collection of organic fashion ranges from yoga gear to padded winter coats, while homeware options include luxurious bedding, tableware and furniture. Grüne Erde, Frauenstrasse 6, 80469 munich, +49 (0)89 120 0990, grueneerde.com

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

S H O P | 97

Wempe The diverse, high-quality range of timepieces and jewellery on ofer at Wempe has helped the company become one of Germany’s most prestigious brands. The label was established in 1878 and since then has cultivated a select collection of exquisite timepieces and standout jewellery. every piece is designed to be individual and makes use of the fnest materials, such as diamonds, pearls and coloured gemstones, while the store’s own timepiece collection is complemented by a range of watches by leading international brands, including Cartier, Breitling, Rolex, Longines and Vacheron Constantin.

Wempe, maximilianstrasse 10, 80539 munich, +49 (0)89 291299, wempe.com

Residenzstrasse & Maximilianstrasse RE PL AY

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RestauRant Vue

PHOTO: MaTTHias HaMel

sven Büttner, one of a new breed of Munich chefs revolutionising the city’s kitchens, is known for using regional, seasonal ingredients to create innovative menus. Büttner’s talent is showcased at the Vue Maximilian, where an elegant dining room décor and panoramic views across Maximilianstrasse complement the cuisine. typical dishes include pan-fried calf’s liver with sweet apple, onion and mashed potato and an ox appetiser with quail’s egg, crème fraîche and a dash of Imperial caviar. Restaurant Vue Maximilian, Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2125 1740, kempinski.com * for map go to page 97

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Place Of interest

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BucHeReR One of the leaders in the swiss watch and jewellery sector and a company that has become synonymous with quality, Bucherer has a prestigious reputation. the company was established in 1888 and is still familyrun today, resulting in a collection that is steeped in tradition and a team of staf who are experts in their feld. the collection includes almost 50,000 diferent items. Pearl and gemstone creations, designed and handcrafted in Bucherer’s own workshops, are ofered alongside the fnest timepieces by Rolex, cartier, Omega and chopard. Bucherer, Residenzstrasse 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2388 5460, bucherer.com * for map go to page 97

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Ingolstadt Village Ingolstadt Village otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

DoN’t MISS… Patrizia Pepe A new addition to Ingolstadt Village, Patrizia Pepe’s ability to bring specialoccasion elegance to everyday dressing adds an extra touch of glamour to the outlet. the company combines creative director Patrizia Bambi’s passion with the business brain of Claudio orrea and has developed a signature style that fatters the female form. expect to fnd minimalist shapes and scrupulous attention to detail throughout the collection.

Michael Kors

Black Box Concept Store

the collections of Michael Kors embody Californian chic, alongside an innate sense of glamour and timeless elegance. the designer’s eponymous label was established in 1981 and since then he has expanded beyond ready-to-wear clothing to encompass accessories, footwear, watches, jewellery, eyewear and a popular fragrance line – the fresh tones of Very Hollywood make it the perfect summer scent.

Black Box Concept Store plays host to a variety of highly sought-after designer labels, with new brands added every two weeks to keep the selection fresh. Many items are only available in limited quantities so it’s the ideal place to pick up something you won’t fnd elsewhere. Herrlicher, Milestone, george gina & Lucy, Havaianas and g-Lab are just a few of the labels stocked.

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PeRFeCt DAy

How to get tHeRe By car

10am

12pm

Start the day by embracing countryside chic with the help of British heritage label Barbour.

Head to Kaimug restaurant to dine on fne thai cuisine – the curries with coconut milk come highly recommended.

From Munich, take the A9 autobahn to junction Ingolstadt-Nord (exit 61), direction Ingolstadt-ost, and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village. By train

4pm 2pm Boggi Milano’s refned menswear collection is sure to impress thanks to its timeless sense of style.

treat yourself to a standout piece of jewellery or an elegant timepiece from renowned jeweller Christ.

6pm 7pm Visit Unützer to pick up a pair of highquality, Italian-made shoes – its velvet and leather ballerinas are a highlight.

end your day with a visit to culinary specialist Le Creuset, which ofers colourful cookware.

Ingolstadt has a central train station with an InterCity train connection and is the main hub for trains running to Munich, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Ulm and Regensburg. there are regular connecting coach services to Ingolstadt Village from IngolstadtNord station and Ingolstadt central station. every Saturday Ingolstadt Village also ofers a free shuttle service from Ingolstadt Central Station to the outlet. By bus From Munich Airport, take the Ingolstadt Airport express to Ingolstadt Village. From Ingolstadt Central Station, take bus line 10 or 11 to ZoB/ Harderstrasse, and then change to line 20.

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Outletcity Metzingen Outletcity Metzingen, reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com

Perfect Day 10am

Opening times Monday-friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)

Start your day’s shopping browsing the sport-luxe collection at french fashion label Lacoste.

12pm

2pm

Stop for lunch at Olio e Pane, where diners can enjoy typical Italian cuisine on the sunlit terrace.

Burberry’s store showcases the label’s unique take on Brit cool; its classic trench coat is an enduring piece.

4pm treat yourself to a pair of style-conscious shoes at Jimmy Choo where Italian craftsmanship and fashion-led embellishment are combined.

6pm end your day admiring the classic elegance and meticulous attention to detail of Church’s footwear collection.

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How to get tHere enter reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system. Drive north-west out of Munich on the a8 towards augsburg and Stuttgart. Leave the a8 at the Merklingen exit, following signs for Münsingen. turn right on the L230, follow the road for 6km and turn left onto the B28 towards reutlingen. follow this street for 30km. outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save

The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register *Subject to local conditions.

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Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when you’re on the go 1

1. Regional Tourist Ofce Tourismusamt München Sendlingerstrasse 1 80331 Munich muenchen-tourist.de 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000

EMERGENCY SERVICES

USEFUL PHRASES

Emergency: +49 110 (police and ambulance) Fire: +49 112 Doctor: +49 116 117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 116 116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards)

Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte I would like... ∙ Ich möchte... Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...? Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben?

3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets head to efa.mobi or mvv-muenchen. de; alternatively you can scan the QR code 4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information

6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com

PHOTO: Sven TeScHke

5. Taxis To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de

DID YOU KNOW ...? Munich’s city seal features a small monk known as the Münchner Kindl; look out for examples in the city that show him holding a beer stein!

Above: Münchner kindl on the spire of the neues Rathaus

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Munich Airport

After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Munich Airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts, souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase. In addition, Munich Airport is home to a number of restaurants.

Dallmayr Bistro

Accessorize

Dallmayr is one of Munich’s most popular gourmet destinations and its airport bistro deserves equal acclaim thanks to its menu of delicious Bavarian and international specialties. Opt for a rich cup of cofee and a freshly baked pastry while waiting to board or enjoy something a little more substantial before taking of on a long-haul fight.

Accessorize encourages style experimentation, ofering an assortment of items designed to add a touch of individuality to any outft. The range on ofer is varied enough to cater to an array of diferent tastes and styles; options include pretty patterned bags, wide-brimmed summer hats and co-ordinating jewellery.

Desigual With its bright, bold colour palette and emphasis on print, Desigual is the ideal label for those looking to add a last-minute splash of

colour to their holiday wardrobe. The Spanish label is known for its instantly identifable collections; expect to fnd that patchwork and head-to-toe prints are a permanent fxture throughout the range.

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Eat, See, Do See

If you only have a short time to spend in Munich, the city’s Tourist Board has picked its top three attractions around the city. Tourismusamt München, Marienplatz 2, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen.de

Munich’s Bavarian cuisine ofers a distinctive taste with wide appeal. From weisswurst (veal sausage) with a large pretzel and sweet mustard to a portion of pork knuckle with potato dumplings, there are many options available. Head to one of the city’s lively beer gardens to taste the most authentic versions of traditional dishes.

Despite Munich’s landlocked location, the city’s residents can be found surfng on the Eisbach channel, the Isar canal and the Isar river. From the Eisbach wave in the Englischer Garten for experienced surfers to Flosslände in Thalkirchen, suitable for beginners, these static waves – the water moves but the wave’s location is fxed – are a popular and unusual attraction.

PHOTO: B. rOemmelT

Eat

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PHOTO: D. VersTl

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BMW Welt is the car company’s new experience centre. Located near the city’s Olympic complex and next door to the BMW skyscraper and company museum, BMW Welt’s modern architecture rivals its contemporary surroundings. Its 16,000-square-metre roof appears to foat like a cloud. BMW Welt, Olympiapark 1, 80809 Munich, +49 (0)89 1250 16001, bmw-welt.com

elcome Munich â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the joy of life Munich is a city that loves to enjoy: the delicious food, the refreshing beer, the beautiful parks and buildings, the art and the music. Join in and celebrate the day. Enjoy Munich!

www.munich-tourist.de

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When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process. 1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Refund Locations Munich Airport Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4, Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 , Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5

Baggage claim

Level 04

Baggage claim

Transit Level 05

Departures Level 04

Key

Refund location details: Global Blue Customer Services

Customs Stamp

Landside

Tax Free Mailbox

Check-In Area

Airside

Security Control

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Information

Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5 Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 C&A, Kaufngerstrasse 13 Galeria Kaufof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5

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Translations Русский ПеРевод 56: World-Beating Style

Лучший стиль в Мире

PHOTO: MICHAEL JONES

Легендарные немецкие традиции производства высококачественной спортивной одежды являются неотъемлемой частью модной §zиндустрии, рассказывает Стивен Дойг Когда речь заходит о легендарных спортивных брендах, невольно замечаешь, что большая их часть имеет немецкие корни. Индустрия спортивной одежды в Германии всегда была на высоте: начиная от Adidas и Puma и заканчивая многочисленными брендами, имеющими в арсенале спортивные коллекции. С технической стороны немцам практически нет равных, если бы это был марафон, Германия обязательно была бы впереди. Однако мало кто знает, что первая пара обуви знаменитого на весь мир Adidas была изготовлена в прачечной небольшого баварского городка. Adidas, известный прежде под менее звучным названием Gebrüder Dassler Schufabrik, был основан Адольфом

Дасслером, к которому впоследствии присоединился его брат Рудольф. В то время Адольф Дасслер работал на местной обувной фабрике и братья делали спортивную обувь из резины при помощи станка с педальным приводом. В 1936 году Адольф Дасслер убедил американского легкоатлета Джесси Оуэнса выступить в кроссовках фирмы Gebrüder Dassler Schufabrik во время летних Олимпийских игр в Берлине, где спортсмен выиграл четыре золотые медали. В чем же кроется секрет? Вероятно в инновационных технических достижениях лейбла. К сожалению, братья не очень хорошо ладили между собой, и в 1948 году компания разделилась; Адольф переименовал свою часть компании в Adidas, а Рудольф основал конкурентный бренд, ничем не уступавший Adidas и дал ему название Puma. Раскол оказался мучительным для многих жителей города Херцогенаурах, которых стали называть «кривошеями», поскольку они постоянно смотрели вниз на ноги людей, чтобы увидеть, какую марку те предпочли – и, следовательно, какую сторону вражды приняли. На чемпионате мира по футболу в 1954 году компания Adidas впервые представила

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свое новшество – сменные шипы для легких футбольных бутс. Они увеличили сцепление и гибкость, и стали стандартом для футбольной обуви. Важным фактором для разработки и эволюции обуви Adidas были постоянные консультации со спортсменами, направленные на изучение их потребностей и пожеланий относительно дизайна. Сегодня бренд обеспечивает одеждой и обувью бесчисленное количество команд и спортсменов и имя Adidas уже навсегда вошло в историю спорта. Как и прежде компания продолжает беспрерывно работать над совершенствованием технологий амортизации и поглощения удара. В 2013 году бренд представил новую технологию «энергетических капсул», внедренных в подошву кроссовок, – их предназначение аккумулировать и высвобождать энергию при каждом шаге. Puma также продолжает быть международным эталоном стиля и инноваций, поддерживает сотрудничество с ведущими в мире спортивными звездами и модными брендами. Лидерство Германии в индустрии спортивной одежды хоть и отчасти, но базируется на этих двух легендарных брендах. Это лидерство в сфере качественной спортивной одежды оказало заметное влияние на все аспекты немецкого стиля. Стритстайл, включая спортивный образ, является неотъемлемой составляющей немецкой моды, в том числе благодаря берлинской ярмарке молодежной одежды Bread & Butter. Здесь бок о бок с модными бутиками расположены такие гиганты спортивной одежды, как Puma и Adidas. Даже офис Bread & Butter находится прямо над магазином Adidas в Берлине; сочетание спортивных марок и элементов высокой моды, выглядит непринужденно и естественно, например, кроссовки Adidas можно легко одеть с юбкой Raf Simons. Организатор ярмарки Bread & Butter Карл-Хайнц Мюллер однажды заметил: «Поскольку Берлин никогда не был крупным центром моды, мы должны были выделиться по своему, и в результате вышло так, что мы специализируемся на уличной и спортивной одежде». Так сформировалась целая культура, основным приоритетом которой стал спортивный стиль. Такой акцент на спорте естественным образом закоренился во многих немецких брендах премиум-класса. Майкл Михальский, креативный директор мюнхенской марки MCM, помог придать кроссовкам культовый статус, выпустив модели

с завышенным берцем в ярких кислотных тонах. Аналогичным образом Escada воплотила всеобщую немецкую тенденцию в своей линии Sport Line, предлагая аккуратные рубашки-поло, утепленные куртки и весенние жилеты. Даже платья и блузы из основной линии несут в себе небольшой спортивный акцент в виде молний и пряжек. В Hugo Boss похожая история – аккуратные, легкие спортивные штаны и футболки, стилизованные под гоночную одежду; не случайно и то, что Дженсон Баттон является лицом бренда. Коллекции марки Wunderkind, принадлежащей немецкой модной корпорации Wolfgang Joop, хоть и довольно эксцентричны, но, тем не менее, не лишены спортивного настроения – это особенно заметно в жилетах, покрытых спортивными полосками и надписями на бейсбольную тематику. Спортивная одежда всегда была неотъемлемой частью стиля и культуры Германии, а ведущие немецкие бренды, начиная от спортивных и заканчивая модными дизайнерскими, продолжают эту традицию. adidas.com, mcmworldwide.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com, wunderkind.com

64: World’s Fairs

себя показать

Карен Мюннис рассказывает о модных выставках Мюнхена, на которых свои коллекции представляют и крупные узнаваемые бренды, и восходящие звезды Международные показы новых коллекций привлекают внимание прессы и блоггеров, которые обеспечивают бесконечный шлейф отзывов уже после события. На этом фоне модные выставки проходят практически незаметно. Однако именно они становятся связующим звеном на пути к конечному покупателю. Лидирующую позицию по количеству выставок занимает Мюнхен, что сделало его очень востребованным городом среди дизайнеров, брендов и байеров. Ярмарка тканей, фурнитуры и аксессуаров Munich Fabric Start объединяет в себе презентацию текстиля и прогнозирование тенденций. С 1996 года она проходит дважды в год – в феврале и сентябре, и за это время стала одной из главных текстильных выставок в мире. В феврале 2014 года в центре ее внимания будет продукция и тренды сезона весна/лето 2015, а свои товары представят более 950 компаний. Среди постоянных участников

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– итальянская фабрика Marzotto, хрустальный гигант Swarovski, производитель пуговиц Union Knopf. Событие привлекает многих представителей ведущих модных брендов, в том числе Gucci и Tommy Hilfger, которые рассматривают и выбирают новейшие разработки. «Мы стремимся обеспечить успешную платформу для деловых коммуникаций, дополняя ее всесторонней информацией и творческими программами», - объясняет Клаудиа Госсен, директор по маркетингу и коммуникациям Munich Fabric Start. Значительную роль в проекте играет выявление будущих тенденций: реализацию этого направления обеспечивает компания WGSN, мировой лидер в сфере прогнозов. Pantone, Promostyl и Trend Union проводят презентации и семинары в зоне TrendLab, цель которой вдохновение. Именно на Munich Fabric Start презентуются самые смелые инновации в области текстиля. В частности, на ярмарку приезжают компании, специализирующиеся на экологических разработках и новых технологиях денима. За премьеру модных коллекций отвечает серия сезонных ярмарок Munich Fashion Company, которая проводится с 2007 года. Женской, мужской и детской одежде отведены самостоятельные мероприятия. В 2010 году этот набор дополнил родственный проект Supreme в Дюссельдорфе. Выставка Munich Fashion Women – самая крупная из них: каждый раз на ней представлено более 700 коллекций. Этой весной немецкие молодые дизайнеры Guido Maria Kretschmer, Meindl Fashion и другие будут соседствовать с именитыми международными брендами Blumarine, Missoni, Roberto Cavalli и MM6 Martin Margiela. Munich Fashion Company объединяет выставку новинок и шоу-программу. Старший менеджер по продажам Алин Шаде отмечает, что с каждым сезоном это мероприятие неуклонно разрастается. «Мы внимательно относимся к нюансам – отбору участников, сервису внутри проекта и местоположению. Все должно быть организовано идеально. Именно это становится залогом востребованности нашей платформы среди профессионалов», - считает Шаде. Организаторы активно сотрудничают с международными брендами. «Ритейлеры любят приезжать в Мюнхен: он удобен, в том числе, с географической точки зрения, - делится Фредерик Хегеманн, глава PR и маркетинга на Munich Fashion globalblue.com

Company. – И байеры, и участники нашей выставки по достоинству оценили доступность города для посетителей из ближайших стран – Австрии и Швейцарии». Обычно Munich Fashion Women продолжается две недели. В этом году организаторы открывают новый сервис Private Order Suites: теперь байеры и производители могут размещать временные шоурумы и приглашать гостей не только в дни проведения проекта. Несмотря на то, что эта ярмарка ориентируется на профессионалов от модной индустрии, тем не менее, она не сосредоточена только на продажах. Одним из партнеров проекта является марка автомобилей премиум-класса Maserati, и она предоставляет машины для поездок гостей по городу. Кроме того, как это принято на модных неделях, по вечерам проводятся масштабные вечеринки. В этом году местом действия выбрали стильный клуб P1: «Суть выставки - в решении бизнес-задач в приятной для посетителей и участников обстановке. Некоторые даже утверждают, что чувствуют себя здесь частью одной большой семьи», - делится Хегеманн. Компания Premium с 2003 года проводит сезонные ярмарки в Берлине, Мюнхене и Дюссельдорфе. Самая крупная из них – берлинская: она проходит в бывшем почтовом грузовом складе Station в квартале Gleisdreieck и принимает более 60000 человек и 1500 участников. В Мюнхене ярмарка собирает под своей крышей женскую и мужскую одежду, аксессуары, обувь и джинсовые коллекции. Задача Premium – открывать новые таланты. Поэтому как минимум 25% экспонентов каждый сезон – это молодые бренды или уникальные дизайнерские разработки. Влияние обеих выставок распространяется далеко за пределами модной индустрии. Munich Fashion Company стремится вовлечь в процесс широкое деловое сообщество, устраивая каждый сезон званые обеды с участием местных политиков и предпринимателей. Premium проводит ежегодный международный конкурс на лучшее оформление витрин, причем победителей определяют покупатели. Модные события Мюнхена – это всегда больше, чем просто отраслевые выставки. Именно они наглядно демонстрируют разнообразие и активность моды в Германии. munichfabricstart.com, munichfashioncompany.com, premiumexhibitions.com

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70: The Art Of Porcelain

Фарфор От Кутюр

Всемирно известная мануфактура Nymphenburg (Нимфенбург) производит не просто фарфор, а настоящие произведения современного искусства. Ханна Льюис рассказывает о великолепном синтезе традиционного производства и современного творческого подхода Возможно дворец – не самое привычное место для производства фарфора, однако барочный дворец Нимфенбург, находящийся в баварской столице, стал исключением из правил. В 1760 году именно здесь расположился фарфоровый завод с одноименным названием. Великая преданность своему делу, обеспечившая изделиям марки всемирную славу, до сих пор является ее отличительной чертой, считает Андерс Томас, генеральный директор королевской мануфактуры.

«Нимфенбург – пожалуй, единственное место, где продукция до сих пор производится с помощью кропотливого ручного труда… именно это нас и отличает», говорит он. И действительно, с XVIII века процесс производства не сильно изменился: механизмы для замешивания глины приводятся в действие не электричеством, а течением реки, рабочая смесь готовится прямо на территории руками мастеров, – и хотя техника производства со временем стала более совершенна, она все же не утратила своей главной сути. «Слово мануфактура (предприятие ручного труда) для Нимфенбурга всегда несло один и тот же смысл», – говорит Томас. Посещая завод, убеждаешься в том, что репутация предприятия базируется, прежде всего, на верности традициям. Пространные архивы хранят в себе тысячи литейных форм, благодаря которым созданные в прошлом изделия можно изготовить заново по желанию заказчика. Необычное расположение завода невольно напоминает об историческом наследии бренда, как впрочем, и восхитительная коллекция фарфора (Bäuml Collection), собранная в Нимфенбургском музее фарфора. Очевидно, что Нимфенбург предпочитает поддерживать довольно тесную связь с прошлым, но вместе с тем ему удается с легкостью отвечать всем вызовам современности, благодаря чему завод процветает и по сей день. Появление в 1754 году в Нимфенбурге скульптора Франца Антона Бустелли ознаменовало для завода новый этап производства, характеризующийся развитием концепции художественного дизайна. За короткий срок своей работы на фабрике талантливому мастеру удалось создать около 150 неповторимых орнаментов для изделий из фарфора, большинство из которых используются и сегодня. Пожалуй, одними из самых известных его работ стали орнаменты в стиле рококо для коллекции статуэток «Commedia Dell’Arte». В их основе лежат герои итальянского народного театра XVI века. Естественность цвета и проработка деталей принесли коллекции небывалый успех, что в свою очередь сказалось на имидже Нимфенбурга, ставшего международным стандартом в мире фарфорового искусства. Помимо таланта и высокого мастерства для Бустелли и его коллег чрезвычайно важную роль играл непрерывный процесс инноваций и экспериментов. И даже 250 лет спустя эта идея занимает центральное место в политике компании.

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Для Андерса Томаса «взаимодействие искусства и ремесла» является залогом успеха любого проекта. У Нимфенбурга есть огромный опыт работы с современным искусством, которое уже давно стало неотъемлемой частью его истории. Статуэтки из коллекции Commedia Dell’Arte, вышедшей ограниченным тиражом, – всего лишь малая часть архивного фонда Нимфенбурга, которая была переосмыслена современными художниками. Яркие театральные герои обрели абсолютно новый, современный облик благодаря участию ряда знаменитых дизайнеров, включая Вивьен Вествуд, Гарета Пью и Эли Сааба. Работа Гарета Пью воплотила в себе все идеи современности, фигурка Капитана стала почти абстрактной, приняв геометрическую форму дизайнерского наряда. Сразу после выхода линии «Couture» Нимфенбург вновь решил обратиться к миру моды в своей коллекции «Ромео и Джульета». Однако на этот раз основным мотивом стала мюнхенская постановка оперы Беллини «Капулети и Монтекки» 2011 года, сценические костюмы для которой подготовил Кристиан Лакруа. Именно его работы вдохновили художников Нимфенбурга на создание коллекции позолоченных ювелирных украшений из фарфора. Искусство нимфенбургского фарфора прошло серьезное испытание временем, во многом благодаря способности быстро приспосабливаться к новым ситуациям и тенденциям, бросая вызов ограничениям. В результате недавнего сотрудничества с художником Сааданом Афифом, свет увидела коллекция «Fairytale Recordings», состоящая из восьми декоративных ваз. Афиф известен на весь мир своими разноплановыми работами. Для последнего проекта он специально выбрал несколько фраз из различных песен популярных исполнителей и увековечил их на корпусе фарфоровых ваз. Каждая ваза имеет крышку в форме статуэтки, на создание которой художников вдохновил образ актрисы и оперной певицы – Катарины Шраде. Ей же выпала честь открывать презентацию коллекции. Очевидно, что фабрика Нимфенбург не только питает страсть к современному искусству, но и принимает активное участие в его формировании. Члены творческого коллектива Нимфенбурга прежде всего являются художниками, и во многом благодаря их таланту бренд не теряет свой шарм. По словам Томаса, Нимфенбург стремится создать globalblue.com

«пространство для экспериментов... открывая все новые и новые перспективы, последовательно развивая существующие техники производства и все дальше раздвигая границы возможного». nymphenburg.com

108: When you shop the world, shop tax free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.

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美文翻译

56: World-Beating Style 举世瞩目的科技风尚德国制造高科技与高性能运动服的专业技艺，如今已华丽转身衍生出覆盖全面的卓越潮流系列。Stephen Doig 报道当谈到科技前沿、性能卓越的运动品牌，德国品牌在其中所占有的席位引人瞩目。从阿迪达斯、彪马到各大德国时装品牌，都纷纷在设计中嵌入运动风格，在德国运动服装的生命力异常活跃。而德国品牌在科技运用上也总是走在前沿 —— 在这场技术的马拉松竞赛中，德国品牌遥遥领先。阿迪达斯在全球运动服装界稳居霸主地位，但令人震惊的是品牌第一双运动鞋，诞生于偏远的巴伐利亚小镇某栋民宅的洗衣房中。阿迪达斯品牌最初的名字稍显拗口G e b r ü d e r Dassler Schufabrik，由Adolf Dassler创建，其兄Rudolf 之后也参与到这份事业中。Adolf Dassler在本土一家制鞋工厂工作，兄弟两在当时使用人工踏板机器制造橡胶运动鞋。1936年，Adolf Dassler说服了美国短跑名将 Jesse Owens，在柏林奥运会上穿着Gebrüder Dassler Schufabrik品牌的运动鞋，最后该运动员获得了四枚金牌。或许您会问品牌的独特卖点是什么？那就要数到科技创新上的卓越领先了。随着兄弟两的关系日渐疏离，1948年公司拆分；Adolf将自己的品牌重新命名为阿迪达斯，而Rudolf创建了在日后和阿迪达斯同样声势浩大的竞争品牌，这个品牌便是彪马。公司的这次解体并不愉快，兄弟两的故乡 Herzogenaurach的居民也因此被戏称为‘歪脖子’ ，因为他们总是歪头看别人的脚，根据对方所穿的品牌确定他们是否与自己站在同一边。阿迪达斯在1954年世界杯上将螺钉运用到轻质足球鞋的鞋底上时，还是一件新奇的事。螺钉增强了球鞋的抓地力和灵活性，并在日后成为足球鞋的标准配置。阿迪达斯研发新品过程中的一个环节，就是了解运动员们的需求并将其结合到设计中。今日，阿迪达斯已成为无数运动队与运动员的选择，这个名字已经深深烙进了体育史。今日的阿迪达斯对于智能科技研发的热情不减当年，品牌致力于发展可以吸收冲击的缓冲科技；在2013 年，阿迪达斯推出置于鞋底内“能量胶囊” ，帮助跑步者储存并回馈能量。彪马则成为实验性与时尚性的标杆，常年与世界顶级运动明星以及时尚品牌推出合作系列。德国在运动服领域的领先地位，至少有部分归功于这两大具有世界影响力的品牌。在制造高性能运动服上的领先，使得德国时尚的方

方面面都明显受到运动风格的影响。包含运动风在内的街头风，已成为德国在国际时尚界的一张名片，这部分也归功于在柏林举行的、倡导街头与运动时尚的Bread & Butter双年贸易展。在柏林的Mitte区，前卫潮流店铺与运动巨头彪马与阿迪达斯的店铺毗邻而立，而Bread & Butter的办公室就在城中阿迪达斯店铺楼上；运动服饰与前卫时尚单品的混搭，例如用阿迪达斯跑鞋来搭配 Raf Simons衬衣，显得毫不做作、随意自然。正如Bread & Butter的创立者Karl-Heinz Müller所言： “因为柏林从来都不是一座显要的时尚之都，所以我们得以独辟蹊径，自然演化出在街头与运动风格上的专长。”这种围绕运动单品的潮流文化已广受拥戴。对于运动风格的专注也自然而然地影响了德国的时尚奢侈品牌。慕尼黑品牌 M C M 的创意总监 Michael Michalsky，用招牌性的拉风鞋舌与高帮设计，将运动鞋打造成另类潮流单品。Escada也同样为其运动线引入动态美感，品牌在春装系列中带来一系列剪裁简洁的polo衫、冲锋外套与马甲。即使在品牌的主线中，也可见到拉链与带扣等运动元素被运用到连衣裙与衬衣的设计中。 Hu go B oss也不例外 — —简练轻质的运动裤、镶有绝缘织带的上衣与赛车风格夹克，无怪乎 Jenson Button成为了该品牌的代言人。德国时装巨头 Wolfgang Joop旗下的高街子品牌Wunderkind，风格充满艺术感、精灵古怪，但仍可从其春装系列中一系列棒球风格字母装饰与运动条纹设计的背心中，见到运动风的影响。运动风格与德国时尚文化一脉相承，该国的诸多顶尖品牌，从功能性品牌到高街品牌，纷纷延续着这一传统。 adidas.com, mcmworldwide.com, escada.com, hugoboss.com, wunderkind.com

64: World’s Fairs 世界时尚盛会慕尼黑各色时装展会对于国际品牌而言是个绝好的秀场，同时也是新兴品牌崭露头角之处。这里的时装展会超越了行业本身，展示出丰富多彩的多样性，Karen Munnis这般写道。国际时装秀总是赢得蜂拥而来的媒体报道，草根博客的持续关注，以及无穷无尽的迷醉时尚派对。服装展会处处充满了微妙的灵感比试与创意较量——却是连接设计到成衣的关键。慕尼黑如今声名大噪，成为国际设计师，著名品牌以及买手的必访之地，他们的大驾光临给慕尼黑带来当季最为新潮的时尚产品。 Munich Fabric Start一向引领纺织品风潮。该公司举办的面料盛会一年两次。你可以在此寻觅到各色面料，裁剪，辅料及饰品。Munich Fabric Start创建于 1996年，每年二月及十月举办此盛会。时至今日，该面

PHOTO: MUNICHFABRICSTART

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料节已是最富盛名的国际面料盛会。即将来临的2014 年二月展会，主要侧重于2015年春夏的流行面料，届时将有950位厂商参展。参展品牌包括意大利纺织公司 Marzotto，水晶巨头施华洛世奇和纽扣制造商Union Knopf。另外，知名品牌，如Gucci和Tommy Hilfger也将于此寻觅最新的潮流面料。 “我们的理念在于提供最为优秀的商业平台，并辅以最为全面的潮流信息，给各大品牌带来无限的灵感来源， ”Munich Fabric Start的市场传播总监Claudia Gossen这般对我们说。预测流行趋势是Munich Fabric Start工作的重中之重。全球流行引领公司WGSN是其官方合作伙伴。与此同时，许多时尚公司如Promostyl、 Trend Union常在TrendLab灵感工作室举办各色演讲与讨论会，集思广益，推陈出新。各色大胆创新的面料往往在此被最先发掘。除了传统纺织品外，Munich globalblue.com

Fabric Start还大力推广生态环保面料以及全新的牛仔面料技术。慕尼黑时装公司面向高端定制时装市场，推出了一系列季节性交易会。自2007年创办以来，展会迅猛发展，涵括女装、男装以及童装等独立板块。2010年，该公司在杜塞尔多夫创办了另一展会——Supreme。该公司最大的展会是慕尼黑时尚女人展，700余件精品精彩亮相，买家们当真是目不暇接。这个春天，这个展会将星光璀璨，德国设计师Guido Maria Kretschmer、Meindl Fashion将与最为顶尖的国际品牌lumarine、 Missoni, 、Roberto Cavalli 、MM6 Martin Margiela一同亮相于此。高级销售经理Aline Schade的压力却不小，她需得确保每一季的时装秀与展会都带来销售数额的持续增长。 “我们负责所有的工作和流程 ——服饰、服务供应商和位置的选择。所有事物都必需完美结合在一起。这样，参展商和良好氛围的完美融合才会使得杜塞尔多夫和慕尼黑展会令人极为向往” ，Schade如是说。国际品牌对这个展会也另眼相看。 “慕尼黑是销售顶级时装品牌的首选城市，不仅是因为经销商们乐于来此，更是因为慕尼黑的黄金地理位置， ”慕尼黑时尚公司公关和市场营销总监Friederike Hegeman说。 “德国零售商和参展商非常看好邻近国家的访客，每年奥地利与瑞士的游客络绎不绝推动着时尚经济的发展。” 慕尼黑时尚女性展两个礼拜的展期带来了巨大效益。慕尼黑时装公司更是抓紧火候，推出了新服务项目：定制西服。买家和厂家在展会结束后可以依旧设立临时展台。尽管这场展会极为专业，但并非仅仅只局限于贸易领域。豪华汽车品牌玛莎拉蒂鼎力赞助此次盛会，地点设在慕尼黑繁华地段P1，宾客们得以在城市穿梭一览风光无限，好似国际时装周一般炫丽夺目。 “ 本次活动氛围是将商业与服务良好结合，为参展商与宾客提供最优质的服务。气氛温馨和煦，好比家庭聚会。”Hegemann 介绍道。 Premium创建于2003年，在柏林、慕尼黑和杜塞尔多夫都拥有季节性交易会。柏林展会规模最大，规格最高。此次展会在Gleisdreieck的一个邮政货运站旧址举办。让人眼花缭乱1500余件精品带来超过60,000人次的来访。慕尼黑博览会带来一个女装，男装，配饰，鞋子，牛仔布的缤纷世界。Premium的理念也堪称新潮，他们致力于将新兴天才的禀赋彻底挖掘。每季参展品牌至少25%是新品牌或者有着独一无二的全新创意。这两类展会都超越了时尚圈的范畴。慕尼黑时尚公司每季举办优雅晚宴，聚合本地政要和商务人士，打造高尚的社交群落。Premium每年举办国际服饰大赛，胜者由公众投票选出，在业界声望极高。但慕尼黑的时尚活动绝非只是业内的自娱自乐——他们展示着德国时装的丰富多样性和不朽活力。 munichfabricstart.com, munichfashioncompany.com, premiumexhibitions.com

PHOTO: FRANK STOLLE

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70: The Art Of Porcelain 瓷器的艺术 Nymphenburg公司制造的不仅是世界闻名的精良瓷器同时也是现代艺术品。Hannah Lewis带我们走进这传统生产和当代创作的完美结合宫殿作为瓷器生产之地似乎不同寻常，但巴伐利亚首府巴洛克式的Nymphenburg宫自18世纪60年代初以来便是著名的制瓷场所。Nymphenburg的首次成就便如此宫殿一般辉煌宏大。对CEO Anders Thomas 而言，公司的核心理念在于对伟大工艺的承诺。他说： “Nymphenburg是最后一个手工制瓷场所，所有瓷器完全由手工打造，这正是我们的不同之处”。 Nymphenburg的制作流程自18世纪来，确实变化不大。设备仍由水提供动力，制作依旧由艺术家手工完成。尽管技术多年以来历经提炼，本质依旧永恒。正如 Thomas解释道： “手工制作依旧是Nymphenburg经久不变的本质。” Nymphenburg的声誉基于他们对于传统的承诺。你若去过其工厂，你便晓得这声明的来源。历史制作的模具直到今日依旧被珍藏。许多历史产品今日依旧被客户所定制。宫殿精美绝伦的摆设也是该品牌的珍贵遗产，是Nymphenburg 瓷器博物馆的Bäuml精品收藏蔚为闪耀的部分。尽管该品牌的旧日时光美好金灿，但

是，若不是善于拥抱新鲜事物，Nymphenburg绝不会如今日一般美名远播。 1754年无疑是关键性一年，雕塑家Franz Anton Bustelli 的加入将Nymphenburg的建树推到了新的高度，他对艺术设计高度重视，影响力极为深远。尽管任职期间很短，这位天才艺术家的创造力却极为爆发。他制作了大约150座瓷器摆件，其中许多摆件今日仍在使用。最有名的是16座即兴喜剧人物，洛可可的装饰风格将16世纪的戏剧人物表现得惟妙惟肖。这些瓷偶的生动细节以及流淌的活力使得该品牌一炮打响，并牢牢奠定了Nymphenburg瓷器艺术翘楚的地位。对于Bustelli和他的同事而言，创新和试验是公司发展繁荣的必需。在快速发展250年之后，这等创新理念依旧流传弥新。Anders Thomas说， “艺术与技术的互动对于任何新项目而言都是必要的，Nymphenburg对于现代艺术进行了深入的发掘，我们致力将传统与现代融合到一处。” 在现代艺术家眼中看来，即兴喜剧瓷偶只是众多辉煌历史中的一朵浪花，却足以为重新设计提供灵感。在如今限量版的时装系列里，世界知名的时尚品牌争相为这些瓷偶重新设计，其中包括V i v i e n n e We s t w o o d , G a r e t h P u g h 以及 E l ie Sa ab。P u g h的设计独具现代性，Capit a no Spavento的形象变得几乎抽象，犹如设计师商标的几何形状。

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在用时装夺取眼球之后，Nymphenburg再次用他的罗密欧与朱丽叶系列惊艳了世界，此次灵感来源是歌剧——Vincenzo Bellini的《凯普莱特与蒙泰古》。 Christian Lacroix 为2011年慕尼黑国家剧院所设计的产品为Nymphenburg带来了创意的精魂，他们新推出限量版的鎏金瓷首饰令人不可割舍。与Nymphenburg一样，高级成衣和歌剧艺术随着时代推进而变化，因而历久弥香。Nymphenburg创意边界依旧被突破超越达到新的巅峰。限量版童话录音系列，得以与艺术家Saâdane Aff合作，打造出8个美轮美奂的花瓶。当然，令人瞠目结舌还在后头，Aff是位天才的跨界人才，他将歌唱家的美妙歌声录下，密封入花瓶。会歌唱的花瓶，多么令人惊叹的天才创意。在这些花瓶里，最优美的声音来自女演员和歌剧歌手Katharina Schrade，她的先锋性与超越性与这组精品相得益彰。显然，Nymphenburg不仅仅在拥抱现代艺术，更在积极创造现代艺术。Nymphenburg 的创意团队皆为一流的艺术家，将品牌发展得如此令人兴奋。Thomas说，Nymphenburg的目标在于创建“实验场所，开发新的视角领域，持续性地推进现代生产模式，并永不停止创新。” nymphenburg.com

108:When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千三百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程： 1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。 globalblue.com

日本語翻訳

108: When you shop the world, shop tax free: 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27 万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。

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‫‪The Art Of Porcelain: 70‬‬ ‫ف ّن صناعة الخزف‬ ‫ل تبتكر شكة نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬قطعاً خزفيّة فاخرة مشهورة عاليّاً‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬بل أيضاً أعملً فنيّة عصيّة‪ .‬تكتشف هانا لويس ‪Hannah Lewis‬‬ ‫دمجاً مثيا ً للهتمم بي النتاج التقليدي والبتكار العاص‬ ‫معمل ٍ‬ ‫خزف داخل قص‪ ،‬لكن منذ أوائل ستيّنات القرن الثامن‬ ‫من غي الطبيعي أن يقع ُ‬ ‫عش‪ ،‬يحوي قص نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenberg‬الباروك ف عاصمة بافاريا شكة‬ ‫الخزف التي تحمل إسمه‪ .‬شك ّّل اللتزام بالحرفيّة التقنة أول نجاحات الشكة ويعتب‬ ‫الدير التنفيذي أندير توماس ‪ Anders Thomas‬أ ّن هذا ما ييّز الشكة حتّى‬ ‫اليوم‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬هي الكان الوحيد‬ ‫تغيت عمل ّية‬ ‫التبقّي حيث تصنع النتجات يدويّاً بالكامل‪ ...‬هذا ما يجعلنا مم ّيزين”‪ّ .‬‬ ‫التصنيع لدى نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬بشكلٍ بسيط منذ القرن الثامن عش‪.‬‬ ‫ويحض الحرف ّيون الزيج ف‬ ‫ما زالت الجهزة تُشغّل باستخدام مياه مجاري الصنع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الصنع‪ .‬بالرغم من تحسي التقنيّات الستخدمة عب السني‪ ،‬ما زالت هي هي‪ .‬عل ح ّد‬ ‫تعبي توماس ‪“ :Thomas‬لطالا عنى تعبي ‪( manu factum‬يصنع يدوياً)‬ ‫ف نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬ما عناه‪”.‬‬ ‫يعتمد جزء كبي من شهرة نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬عل هذا اللتزام‬ ‫بالتاث‪ ،‬كم يتّضح بعد زيارة الصنع‪ .‬يض ّم أرشيفه الغني قوالب آلف البتكارات‬ ‫الاضية وما زال معظمها متوافرا ً للتصنيع عند الطلب‪ .‬يشكّل القص تذكيا ً ثابتاً بإرث‬ ‫العلمة التجاريّة عل غرار العمل الاضية الرائعة الحفوظة ضمن مجموعة باومل‬ ‫‪ Bäuml‬ف متحف نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬للخزف‪ .‬ل ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن للدار‬ ‫ارتباطاً وثيقاً وقويّاً بالاض‪ .‬لكن من دون ترافق ذلك مع مواكبة التجدّد‪ ،‬لا كانت‬ ‫نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬الشكة التي هي عليها اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫شكّلت سنة ‪ 1754‬نقطة تح ّول ف تاريخ نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬نتيجة‬ ‫تعيي الن ّحات فرانس أنطون بوستيل ‪ Franz Anton Bustelli‬الذي حمل‬ ‫الشكة إل التكيز عل التصميم الف ّني الذي سيع ّزز مكانتها‪ .‬ف خلل الفتة القصية‬ ‫التي قضاها ف الشكة‪ ،‬كان الف ّنان الوهوب كثي البتكارات إذ أنتج حوال ‪150‬‬ ‫تصميم جميل لشخصيّات من الخزف ما زال الكثي منها مستخدماً حتّى يومنا هذا‪.‬‬ ‫قد تكون أشهرها شخص ّيات كوميديا ديلرت ‪ Commedia Dell’Arte‬الـ‬ ‫‪ 16‬وهي عبارة عن قطع من طراز روكوكو تثّل شخصيّات من السلوب السحي‬ ‫الذي ساد ف القرن السادس عش والذي يحمل السم نفسه‪ .‬بفضل التفاصيل الدقيقة‬ ‫والحيويّة الوجودة ف هذه الشخصيّات‪ ،‬اشتهرت عل الفور وجعلت نيمفنبغ‬ ‫‪ Nymphenburg‬معيارا ً عال ّياً يحتذى به ف ف ّن صناعة الخزف‪.‬‬ ‫اعتب بوستيل ‪ Bustelli‬وزملؤه أنّه ل ب ّد من إضافة البتكار والختبار إل مهارة‬ ‫وحرف ّية نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬لضمن ازدهارها‪ .‬تط ّورت الشكة بسعة‬ ‫ف غضون ‪ 250‬سنة وما زالت تعتمد البدأ نفسه‪ .‬يعتقد أندير توماس ‪Anders‬‬ ‫‪ Thomas‬أ ّن “التداخل الكبي بي الف ّن والحرفة” أساس لضمن نجاح أي مشوع‬ ‫جديد ول ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬قد غاصت مط ّولً ف عال الف ّن‬ ‫العصي وط ّعمت إرثها الغني بأساليب عصيّة‪.‬‬ ‫ما شخصيّات كوميديا ديلرت ‪ Commedia Dell’Arte‬إل إحدى قطع‬ ‫الرشيف الكثية التي يعيد الف ّنانون العاصون تخ ّيلها‪ .‬كجزء من مجموعة كوتور‬ ‫‪ Couture‬الحدودة الكميّة‪ ،‬أُعيد مؤخّرا ً تصميم هذه الشخصيّات وأُلبِست‬ ‫تصاميم من ابتكار بعض أبرز دور الزياء العال ّية با فيها فيفيان وستوود‬ ‫‪ Vivienne Westwood‬وغاريث بوغ ‪ Gareth Pugh‬وإيل‬ ‫صعب‪ .‬تظهر النفحة العصيّة ف تصميم بوغ ‪ Pugh‬بشكلٍ خاص إذ تست‬ ‫الشكال الهندسيّة التي يشتهر بها الص ّمم تضاريس كابيتانو سبافنتو ‪Capitano‬‬ ‫‪.Spavento‬‬ ‫بعد إطلق مجموعة كوتور ‪ Couture‬بقليل‪ ،‬عادت شكة نيمفنبغ‬ ‫‪ Nymphenburg‬وطرقت باب الزياء من خلل مجموعة روميو وجولييت‬

‫الستوحاة من أوبرا فنشنزو بليني ‪ Vincenzo Bellini‬إي كابوليتي‬ ‫إ إي مونتيك ‪ .I Capuleti e I Montecchi‬استوحت نيمفنبغ‬ ‫‪ Nymphenburg‬من أزياء ص ّممها كريسيان لكروا ‪Christian‬‬ ‫‪ Lacroix‬لعرض العام ‪ 2011‬ف السح الوطني ‪Nationaltheater‬‬ ‫ف ميونخ وقدّمت مجموعة محدودة من الجوهرات الخزفيّة الط ّعمة بالذهب‪ .‬عل‬ ‫غرار نيمفنبغ ‪ ،Nymphenburg‬تغلّب ف ّنا تصميم الزياء الراقية والوبرا عل‬ ‫تغي الزمان‪ .‬أ ّما نيمفنبغ‬ ‫عامل مرور الوقت إذ تكنا من الحافظة عل تألّقهم مع ّ‬ ‫بالتوسع أكث وأكث‪ .‬أطلقت الشكة بالتعاون مع‬ ‫‪ ،Nymphenburg‬فتطمح‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الف ّنان سعدان عفيف ‪ Saâdane Aff‬مشوع ذا فييتايل ريكوردنغز ‪The‬‬ ‫‪ Fairytale Recordings‬الذي هو عبارة عن ثان مزهريّات جديدة‬ ‫ضمن الجموعة الحدودة الكميّة‪ .‬لكن ل يقتص الشوع عل ذلك فحسب‪.‬‬ ‫يشتهر عفيف بعمله التعدّد الجالت ولتحقيق هذا الشوع‪ ،‬قام بتجميع كلمت‬ ‫أغان من عدّة ف ّناني‪ ،‬ت ّم ف ما بعد ختمها عل الزهريّات‪ .‬أ ّما الشخصيّات التي كلّلت‬ ‫هذه الزهريّات‪ ،‬فأوحت واستوح َيت من أداء المثّلة ومغ ّنية الوبرا كاثارينا شايد‬ ‫‪ Katharina Schrade‬التي رافق أسلوبها الميّز حفل إطلق الجموعة‪.‬‬ ‫من الواضح أ ّن نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬ل تش ّجع الف ّن الحديث فحسب‪ ،‬بل‬ ‫كل شء‬ ‫تبتكره أيضاً‪ .‬البتكرون لدى نيمفنبغ ‪ Nymphenburg‬ف ّنانون قبل ّ‬ ‫وهذا ما ي ّيز العلمة التجاريّة‪ .‬عل ح ّد تعبي توماس ‪ ،Thomas‬تهدف نيمفنبغ‬ ‫‪ Nymphenburg‬إل خلق “مساحة للختبار‪ ...‬من خلل فتح مجالت جديدة‬ ‫وتطوير طرق التصنيع الستخدمة باستمرار وتوسيع حدود المكان ّية أكث فأكث‪”.‬‬ ‫‪nymphenburg.com‬‬

‫‪When you shop the world,‬‬ ‫‪shop tax free: 108‬‬ ‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax‬‬ ‫‪ Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق‬ ‫التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫تنضم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫فل َم ل ّ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪.1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪.2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة‬ ‫عل إيصالتك ومن ث ّم اقبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب خدمة الزبائن‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ‬ ‫الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم‬ ‫إداري‪.‬‬

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‫تسلّل هذا التكيز عل الرياضة بشكلٍ طبيعي إل العلمات التجاريّة الفاخرة ف ألانيا‪.‬‬ ‫ساهم مايكل ميكالسك ‪ ،Michael Michalsky‬مدير قسم التصميم لدى‬ ‫العلمة التجاريّة الواقعة ف ميونخ إم س إم ‪ ،MCM‬ف تحويل الحذاء الرياض‬ ‫إل قطعة مميّزة من خلل التصاميم العالية الساق ذات اللوان القويّة الصارخة‪.‬‬ ‫كذلك اعتمدت إسكادا ‪ Escada‬أسلوباً ديناميكيّأً ف خط إنتاجها الرياض ‪Sport‬‬ ‫القصات وستات واقية من الطر وصديريّات للربيع‪.‬‬ ‫الذي يقدّم قمصان بولو متقنة ّ‬ ‫وتتمتّع حتّى أثوابها وقمصانها من مجموعتها الساسيّة بلمسات مستوحاة من الرياضة‬ ‫عل سبيل السحابات والبازيم‪.‬‬ ‫الحالة نفسها لدى هيوغو بوس ‪Hugo Boss‬؛ ساويل وقمصان رياضيّة نضة‬ ‫خفيفة الوزن وستات مستوحاة من ملبس السباق وليس من باب الصدفة أن يكون‬ ‫جنسون باتون ‪ Jenson Button‬وجه العلمة التجاريّة‪ .‬أ ّما لدى العلمة‬ ‫التجاريّة الراقية وندركايند ‪ Wunderkind‬التي أطلقها عملق الزياء اللان ّية‬ ‫ولفغانغ جوب ‪ ،Wolfgang Joop‬فالسلوب ف ّني وغريب مع الحافظة عل‬ ‫الثر الرياض ف ستات الربيع الزخرفة بأحرف مستوحاة من البايسبول وبخطوط‬ ‫رياضيّة‪ .‬لطالا كانت اللبس الرياضيّة جزءا ً أساسيّاً من ثقافة السلوب اللان وما‬ ‫زالت العلمات التجاريّة الرائدة ف البلد‪ ،‬العمل ّية والراقية منها‪ ،‬تحتفظ بهذا الرث‪.‬‬ ‫‪adidas.com, mcmworldwide.com‬‬ ‫‪escada.com, hugoboss.com‬‬ ‫‪wunderkind.com‬‬

‫‪World’s Fairs: 64‬‬ ‫معارض عاليّة‬ ‫معارض الزياء ف ميونخ واجهة دوليّة لبرز السمء ف العال وللنجوم الصاعدة عل ح ّد‬ ‫سواء‪ -‬معارض تتخطّى حدود الزياء‪ ،‬تقرير كارن مونس ‪Karen Munnis‬‬ ‫تجذب عروض الزياء العاليّة عدسات الصحافة وتغطّيها مد ّونات موضة الشارع وتتبعها‬ ‫جلسات احتفاليّة مط ّولة‪ .‬بالقابل‪ ،‬ل تحظى معارض الزياء بالهتمم نفسه لكن تشكّل‬ ‫صل ًة وصل أساسيّة بي دور التصميم والتاجر‪ .‬واليوم‪ ،‬تتصدّر ميونخ البلدان التي ل ب ّد‬ ‫كل أنحاء العال أن يزوروها للطّلع عل‬ ‫للمص ّممي والعلمات التجاريّة والتس ّوقي من ّ‬ ‫مجموعة معارض الزياء الوسيميّة التي تستضيفها‪.‬‬ ‫يجمع معرض ميونخ فابريك ستارت ‪ Munich Fabric Start‬للقمشة‬ ‫كل‬ ‫والكسسوارات بي القمشة وعناص تحديد الوضة‪ .‬تأّسس سنة ‪ 1996‬ويُقام ّ‬ ‫سنة ف شهري شباط‪/‬فباير وأيلول‪/‬سبتمب وقد أصبح أحد أبرز معارض القمشة‬ ‫العاليّة‪ .‬يركّز معرض شباط‪/‬فباير ‪ 2014‬عل منتجات وموضة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪2015‬‬ ‫ويقدّم ما يزيد عن ‪ 950‬مشتكاً‪ .‬من العلمات التجاريّة الشاركة شكة القمشة‬ ‫اليطاليّة مرزوت ّو ‪ Marzotto‬وعملقة الكريستال شواروفسك ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫وصانعة الزرار يونيون نوبف ‪ Union Knopf‬بالضافة إل علمات رائدة مثل‬ ‫غوتش ‪ Gucci‬وتومي هلفيغر ‪ Tommy Hilfger‬اللّتي تختاران أحدث‬ ‫أقمشتهم من العرض‪.‬‬ ‫تقول كلوديا غوسن ‪ ،Claudia Gossen‬مديرة قسم التسويق والعلقات‬ ‫العا ّمة ف معرض ميونخ فابريك ستارت ‪“ :Munich Fabric Start‬نهدف‬ ‫كمً من العلومات الشاملة وفيضاً من اللهام‪ ”.‬يلعب‬ ‫إل ابتكار منب أعمل مثال يقدّم ّ‬ ‫قسم تحديد الوضة دورا ً بارزا ً ف العرض‪ .‬شكة تحديد الوضة العال ّية و‪.‬ج‪.‬س‪.‬ن‬ ‫‪ WGSN‬هي الشاركة الساسيّة ف حي تقوم شكات أخرى مثل بنتون‬ ‫‪ Pantone‬وبروموستيل ‪ Promostyl‬وترند يونيون ‪Trend Union‬‬ ‫بتقديم عروض وندوات ف ترندلب ‪ ،TrendLab‬الساحة‬ ‫الخصصة لللهام‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ظهرت الكثي من ابتكارات القمشة الجريئة للم ّرة الول ف هذا العرض‪ .‬إل جانب‬ ‫القمشة الكث قدماً‪ ،‬يقدّم العرض أيضاً علمات تجاريّة تشتهر بالتصاميم التي تعنى‬ ‫بالبيئة وبتقن ّيات الدّنيم الجديدة‪.‬‬

‫يستضيف سوق الزياء الراقي سلسلة معارض ميونخ فاشن كومبان ‪Munich‬‬ ‫‪ Fashion Company‬التجاريّة الوسميّة‪ .‬أُطلقت العارض سنة ‪2007‬‬ ‫وتوسعت‬ ‫وباتت تشمل معارض ّ‬ ‫مخصصة فقط للبس النساء أو الرجال أو الطفال ّ‬ ‫سنة ‪ 2010‬لتشمل معرضاً شقيقاً باسم سوبريم ‪ Supreme‬ف دوسلدورف‬ ‫‪ .Düsseldorf‬معرض ميونخ فاشن كومبان ‪Munich Fashion‬‬ ‫‪ Company‬الكبهو ميونخ فاشن ومن ‪Munich Fashion‬‬ ‫‪ Women‬حيث يُعرض ما يزيد عن ‪ 700‬مجموعة‪ .‬يقدّم العرض هذا الربيع‬ ‫مص ّممي ألان مثل غيدو ماريا كرتشمر ‪Guido Maria Kretschmer‬‬ ‫وميندل فاشن ‪ Meindl Fashion‬إل جانب علمات تجاريّة عاليّة‬ ‫مشهورة مثل بلومارين ‪ Blumarine‬وميسون ‪ Missoni‬وروبرتو كافال‬ ‫‪ Roberto Cavalli‬وم‪.‬م‪.‬سيكس مارتن مرغييل ‪MM6 Martin‬‬ ‫‪.Margiela‬‬ ‫تحرص مديرة البيعات ألي شايد ‪ Aline Schade‬عل أن يستم ّر العرض‬ ‫بكل‬ ‫الذي يجمع بي عروض الزياء والتصاميم بالتط ّور‪ .‬تقول ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬نهت ّم ّ‬ ‫التفاصيل؛ باختيار الجموعات ومز ّودي الخدمة والكان‪ .‬عل العناص كافّة أن تتمش‬ ‫مع بعضها البعض‪ .‬وبفضل الختيار الصحيح للمشاركي ف العرض وج ّوه العا ّم‪ ،‬يتألّق‬ ‫العرضان ف دوسلدورف ‪ Düsseldorf‬وميونخ‪”.‬‬ ‫كم يجذب العرض علمات تجاريّة عال ّية‪ .‬يقول فريدريك هغمن ‪Friederike‬‬ ‫‪ Hegemann‬رئيس قسم العلقات العا ّمة والتسويق ف ميونخ فاشن كومبان‬ ‫‪“ :Munich Fashion Company‬تشكّل ميونخ الكان اله ّم‬ ‫حب التّجار‬ ‫والنسب لبيع أرقى العلمات التجاريّة ف مجال الزياء‪ ،‬ليس نتيجة ّ‬ ‫للمجيء إليها فحسب‪ ،‬بل أيضاً بفضل موقعها الجغراف‪ .‬يقدّر الت ّجار والشاركون‬ ‫اللان قدوم ز ّوار من بلدان مجاورة مثل النمسا وسويسا‪”.‬‬ ‫يستم ّر معرض ميونخ فاشن ومن ‪ Munich Fashion Women‬لسبوعي‬ ‫وقد أطلق ميونخ فاشن كومبان ‪ Munich Fashion Company‬هذا‬ ‫العام خدم ًة جديدة وهي برايفت أوردر سويتس ‪Private Order Suites‬‬ ‫بحيث يكن للمشتين والص ّنعي أن يقيموا صالت عرض مؤقّتة خارج تواريخ العرض‪.‬‬ ‫قد يكون العرض مناسبة تُعنى فقط بالزياء‪ ،‬لك ّنه ل يقتص عل التجارة فحسب‪.‬‬ ‫بفضل راعي مثل صانع السيّارات الفاخرة مازيرات ‪ ،Maserati‬يجول الضيوف‬ ‫ف الدينة بتألّق وعل غرار أسابيع الوضة العال ّية‪ ،‬ستل العرض جلسات احتفال ّية ف‬ ‫نادي ميونخ الليل ب وان ‪ .P1‬يقول هغمن ‪“ :Hegemann‬ما ييّز العرض‬ ‫هو دمج العمل بأفضل خدمة وتقديهم ف قالب واحد للمشاركي والز ّوار‪ .‬البعض‬ ‫يعتب العرض أسة واحدة متمسكة‪”.‬‬ ‫أُطلقت شكة برييوم ‪ Premium‬سنة ‪ 2003‬وتقيم معارض موسم ّية ف برلي‬ ‫وميونخ ودوسلدورف‪ .‬كان العرض الضخم لها ف برلي ف مستودع لشحن البضائع‬ ‫‪ Station‬ف غليسدرايك ‪ Gleisdreieck‬وقد ارتاده أكث من ‪ 60‬ألف‬ ‫وضم ‪ 1500‬مجموعة‪ ،‬ف حي يشمل معرض ميونخ ملبس للنساء والرجال‬ ‫زائر ّ‬ ‫وأكسسوارات وأحذية ودنّيم‪ .‬تهدف شكة برييوم ‪ Premium‬إل تسليط الضوء‬ ‫عل الواهب الجديدة؛ف ّ‬ ‫كل موسم‪ ،‬تشكّل العلمات التجاريّة الجديدة والبتكارات‬ ‫الفريدة من نوعها ‪ 25%‬عل ّ‬ ‫القل من الشاركي‪.‬‬ ‫ل ينحص العرضان بجال الزياء‪ .‬يدمج ميونخ فاشن كومبان ‪Munich‬‬ ‫‪ Fashion Company‬مجتمع العمل الوسع من خلل تنظيم حفلت‬ ‫عشاء كل موسم يض ّم فيها سياسيّي محليّي ورجال أعمل‪ ،‬ف حي تنظّم شكة برييوم‬ ‫‪ Premium‬مسابقة دول ّية سنويّة لتزيي الواجهات‪ ،‬يص ّوت فيها الجمهور للرابح‪.‬‬ ‫ليست معارض الزياء ف ميونخ مج ّرد نشاطات تجاريّة‪ ،‬بل انعكاس لتن ّوع الزياء‬ ‫اللان ّية وحيويّتها‪.‬‬ ‫‪munichfabricstart.com,‬‬ ‫‪munichfashioncompany.com,‬‬ ‫‪premiumexhibitions.com‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪World-Beating Style: 56‬‬ ‫أسلوب مميّز‬ ‫ت ُتجم خبة ألانيا ف اللبس الرياضيّة العالية التقنيّة والداء ف مجموعة كاملة من‬ ‫الزياء الناجحة‪ ،‬تقرير ستفن دويغ ‪Stephen Doig‬‬ ‫التخصصة باللبس الحيويّة العالية‬ ‫من اللفت للنتباه كم من العلمات التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل من أديداس‬ ‫الداء ألانيّة‪ .‬وتظهر ديناميكيّة اللبس الرياضيّة بوضوح ف ألانيا لدى ّ‬ ‫‪ Adidas‬وبوما ‪ Puma‬والسمء التجاريّة الخرى التي اعتمدت السلوب‬ ‫الرياض ف تصاميمها‪ .‬فالعلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة مميّزة تقنيّاً – ولو كان هذا الجال‬ ‫ماراثوناً‪ ،‬لكانت ألانيا ف الطليعة‪.‬‬ ‫تت‬ ‫نظرا ً إل تف ّوق أديداس ‪ Adidas‬ف عال اللبس الرياضيّة‪ ،‬من الستغرب أنّه ّ‬ ‫صناعة الحذاء ال ّول من العلمة التجاريّة ف غرفة غسيل منزل ف قرية بافاريّة نائية‪.‬‬ ‫القل جذباً جبودر داسلر شوفابريك‬ ‫ُعرفت أديداس ‪ Adidas‬ف البداية بالسم ّ‬ ‫‪ Gebrüder Dassler Schufabrik‬وقد ّأسسها أدولف داسلر‬ ‫‪ Adolf Dassler‬وانض ّم إليه لحقاً شقيقه رودولف ‪ .Rudolf‬عمل أدولف‬ ‫محل وصنع الخوان أحذية‬ ‫داسلر ‪ Adolf Dassler‬سابقاً ف مصنع أحذية ّ‬ ‫رياض ّية مطّاط ّية مستخدمان معدّات تعمل عل الد ّواسات‪ .‬سنة ‪ ،1936‬أقنع أدولف‬ ‫داسلر ‪ Adolf Dassler‬العدّاء الميك جيس أونز ‪ Jesse Owens‬بانتعال‬ ‫حذاء رياض من تصميم جبودر داسلر شوفابريك ‪Gebrüder Dassler‬‬ ‫‪ Schufabrik‬ف اللعاب الولبيّة الصيفيّة ف برلي التي فاز فيها بأربع ميداليّات‬ ‫ذهب ّية‪ .‬ما الذي م ّيز العلمة التجاريّة عن غيها؟ تقدّمها التكنولوجي البتكر‪ .‬نتيجة‬ ‫تدهور العلقة بي الخوين‪ ،‬فضّ ت الشاكة سنة ‪ .1948‬أسمى أدولف ‪Adolf‬‬ ‫وأسس رودولف ‪ Rudolf‬علمة منافسة لتكون‬ ‫علمته أديداس ‪ّ Adidas‬‬ ‫عملقة كأديداس ‪ Adidas‬وأسمها بوما ‪ .Puma‬كان النفصال مريرا ً وبات‬ ‫سكّان قريتهم هرزوغيناوراك ‪ Herzogenaurach‬يعرفون بـ “أصحاب‬

‫الرقاب النحنية” لنّهم كانوا ينظرون إل أقدام الناس ليوا أي علمة فضّ لوا وإل أي‬ ‫جهة انحازوا‪.‬‬ ‫كانت السامي ابتكارا ً جديدا ً عندما وضعتها أديداس ‪ Adidas‬ف نعال أحذية‬ ‫كرة القدم الخفيفة الوزن لكأس العال ‪ .1954‬ساعدت عل تثبيت القبضة وزيادة‬ ‫كل أحذية كرة القدم‪ .‬ومن المور التي قامت بها أديداس‬ ‫الرونة وباتت تستخدم ف ّ‬ ‫‪ Adidas‬لتطوير أحذيتها أنّها سألت الرياضيّي عن حاجاتهم وكيّفت تصاميمها‬ ‫بنا ًء عل ذلك‪ .‬اليوم‪ ،‬ت ُلبِس أديداس ‪ Adidas‬عددا ً ل يحص من الفرق والرياضيّي‬ ‫وقد أصبح إسمها محبوكاً ف تاريخ الرياضة‪ .‬ما زالت الشكة تتمتّع بالشغف نفسه‬ ‫إل تطوير تكنولوجيا ذكيّة تهدف إل امتصاص الثر وتأمي الحشو‪ .‬ابتكرت سنة‬ ‫‪“ 2013‬كبسولت طاقة” مدمجة ف نعال أحذية أديداس ‪ Adidas‬لتخزين‬ ‫الطاقة وإعادتها إل العدّاء‪ .‬أ ّما بوما ‪ Puma‬فتط ّورت أيضاً وأصبحت معيارا ً قياسيّاً‬ ‫للتجارب والسلوب وتعاونت مع نجوم رياضيي وعلمات تجاريّة عال ّية رائدة‪ .‬لذلك‪،‬‬ ‫تقوم ريادة ألانيا ف اللبس الرياضيّة‪ ،‬ولو بشكلٍ جزئ‪ ،‬عل هاتي العلمتي العاليّتي‬ ‫الم ّيزتي‪.‬‬ ‫أدّت هذه الريادة ف مجال اللبس الرياضيّة العالية الداء إل تأثي رياض قوي ج ّدا ً عل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل ناحية من نواحي السلوب اللان‪ .‬يشكّل أسلوب اللبس العمل ّية‪ ،‬با فيه السلوب‬ ‫الرياض‪ ،‬جزءا ً ل يتج ّزأ من بروز ألانيا عل خارطة الزياء العاليّة ويعود ذلك بشكلٍ‬ ‫خاص إل العرض التجاري بريد أند باتر ‪ Bread & Butter‬الذي يعقد ف‬ ‫برلي كل سنتي ويحتفل بالزياء العمليّة والرياضيّة‪ .‬تجدر الشارة إل أنّه ف منطقة‬ ‫ميت ‪ Mitte‬ف الدينة‪ ،‬تتاخم محلت اللبس البتكرة التاجر الرياض ّية عل سبيل‬ ‫بوما ‪ Puma‬وأديداس ‪ .Adidas‬وتقع مكاتب بريد أند باتر & ‪Bread‬‬ ‫‪ Butter‬فوق متجر أديداس ‪ Adidas‬ف الدينة‪ .‬من السهل والطبيعي ج ّدا ً‬ ‫مزج العلمات التجاريّة الرياضيّة مع أزياء مبتكرة؛يكن مثلً ارتداء حذاء رياض‬ ‫من أديداس ‪ Adidas‬مع ت ّنورة راف سايونز ‪ .Raf Simons‬عل ح ّد قول‬ ‫منظّم معرض بريد أند باتر ‪ Bread & Butter‬كارل هاينز مولر ‪Karl-‬‬ ‫‪“ :Heinz Müller‬ل ّن برلي ل تكن يوماً عاصمة كبى للزياء‪ ،‬كان ل ب ّد لنا‬ ‫تخصصنا باللبس العمليّة‬ ‫من التميّز بطرق أخرى‪ ،‬والطريقة الطبيعيّة للقيام بذلك هي ّ‬ ‫والرياض ّية‪ ”.‬وبات هناك خبة بالقطع الرياض ّية‪.‬‬

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Postcard

ROECKL The Roeckl family has been committed to the art of luxury glove-making since 1839. Founded in Munich by Jakob Roeckl, the company began as a small store and workshop ofering intricately made, hand-stitched gloves, and soon gained a reputation for skill and reliability. By the 1870s Roeckl had opened its own tannery and dyeworks, and the small workshop grew into a factory employing around 1,000 staf. In 1873 the company became ofcial supplier to the Bavarian royal court and its prestigious clients included Bavariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s King Ludwig II and the Austrian Empress Elisabeth of Bavaria. Now globalblue.com

in the hands of Annette Roeckl, one of the sixth generation of the family and the frst woman to run the business, the brand continues to grow. Committed to tradition yet looking to the future, Roeckl has expanded its oferings within the luxury accessories market while maintaining its focus on quality. The company has retained its original methods and its gloves are made of as many as 24 individual parts, requiring over 2,000 hand stitches per pair â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is luxury you can feel to the tips of your fngers. hl Roeckl, Marienplatz 8, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2104 3900, roeckl.com * for map go to page 95

Women Collection

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