SHOP Naples SS14

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne ILLUSTRATION: pAUL x jOhNSON

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‫دليل ألانيا‬

Welcome to Naples

德国指南

Руководство Германия

This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Naples has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at Italy’s twin loves, good food and womanly fashion (see our feature on page 22), and explore the reasons behind the ever-growing success of the country’s leather accessories makers (turn to page 28). As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

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Nathalie Lees Nathalie Lees created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Naples. Her versatility has previously seen her work on projects from window displays to iPad apps for a wide range of clients. Her love of conceptualising ideas into simple, elegant images makes her the perfect choice for this cover, inspired by our feature about Italy’s womanly fashion design on page 22. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PhOTO: DORCAS BROWN

ILLUSTRATION: NAThALIe LeeS

Contributors

Elle Blakeman Elle Blakeman is editor-in-chief of the Mayfair Magazine. She has previously worked at Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle and Marie Claire, and specialises in luxury lifestyle and travel features. She has a weakness for lattes and Armani lipstick. globalblue.com

Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, assistant production editor at SHOP, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s award-winning magazine. Ruairidh is a keen traveller and writes for a variety of publications.

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Nathalie Lees Contributor Elle Blakeman Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang

Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Distribution project assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Sales key account manager Salvatore Smith Sales account manager Erika Zahar International key account managers Stefano Cardinale, Sabrina Schiavone Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina de Bernardo, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Alberta Reinach, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta, Gloria di Domenico, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Francesca Ramiccia, Giordano Senzacqua Global blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese, Italy

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Contents

PHOTO: SiPa PreSS/reX

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P ro d u c t s 10 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Naples this season 12 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 16 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Naples 18 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F e At u r e s 22 Cover Story: Life Is Beautiful Food and womanly fashion are celebrated with equal passion in Italy. elle Blakeman looks at the connection between the two 28 All In The Detail superb craftsmanship and impeccable design make Italy’s fne leather accessories labels a hit with men around the world, says ruairidh Pritchard Above: Valentino Haute Couture spring/summer 2008

e x Pe r I e Nce 34 Stay In Style sHoP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels Gu I de 41 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Naples, Ischia, sorrento and capri esseNtIA ls 52 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r A N s l At I o N s 54 Русский 60 美文翻译 62 日本語翻訳 sou v e N I r 66 the essential item to bring home

S/S 2014 SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

NAPOLI VIA DEI MILLE 32

10 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

TRU FLAIR Giving an Italian edge to the classic Hawaiian-style shirt, this tailored version by Tru Trussardi is a refned take on one of the surprise trends of the season. In a muted monochrome base print accented with pops of bright blue, the slimcut shirt is less casual than the traditional style and will add interest when paired with a well-cut suit Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52

jacket. Tru Trussardi was launched in 2005 as the sister brand of Trussardi, taking the century-old labelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich heritage and applying a more laidback aesthetic. Ofering elegant and polished urban and casual clothing, it is a great example of an Italian heritage brand embracing modernity. hl Tru Trussardi shirt, â&#x201A;Ź120, Tru Trussardi, Via dei Mille 32, 80121 Naples, +39 081 416829, trussardi.com for map go to page 42

12 | P RO D U C T S

GO TO PRINT Mix playful prints with elegant accessories and fnish with a spritz of Bulgari’s latest fragrance

1. Mango jacket, €49.99, Mango, Stazione Centrale, Piazza Guiseppe Garibaldi, 80142 Naples, +39 06 4778 6836, mango.com

3. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €559, Alberto Guardiani, Via Camerelle 51, 80073 Capri, +39 081 837 6430, albertoguardiani.com

2. Louis Vuitton sunglasses, price on request, Louis Vuitton, Via Camerelle 16A, 80073 Capri, +39 081 837 6799, louisvuitton.com

4. Bulgari Omnia Indian Garnet eau de toilette, €75 for 65ml, Ostuni, Via Domenico Morelli 23-25, 80121 Naples, +39 081 764 3903, bulgari.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52

S H O P | 13

PHOTO: (5) RObeRTO CenTamORe

5. Coccinelle handbag, €198, Coccinelle, Via Chiaia 158, 80132 Naples, +39 081 418083, coccinelle.com 6. Pinko skirt, €185, Pinko, Via dei Mille 1-7, 80121 Naples, +39 081 497 6360, pinko.it

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7. Damiani earrings, €9,995, Damiani, Via Gaetano Filangieri 15 bis, 80121 Naples, +39 081 405043, damiani.com

14 | P RO D U C T S

TANGERINE DREAM Gold and navy accessories add a regal touch to juicy orange this summer

1. Miu Miu handbag, €1,200, Miu Miu, Via Vittorio Emanuele 58-60, 80073 Capri, +39 081 8374 5453, miumiu.com

3. Hermès hat, price on request, Hermès, Via Gaetano Filangieri 53-57, 80121 Naples, +39 081 420 7054, hermes.com

2. Casadei shoes, €550, Casadei, Via Camerelle 55, 80073 Capri, +39 081 838 8257, casadei.com

4. Luisa Spagnoli dress, €340, Luisa Spagnoli, Via Toledo 316, 80134 Naples, +39 081 419476, luisaspagnoli.it

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52

PHOTO: (3) VICENTE SAHUC

scaglionegroup.com

Ischia

exclusive bespoke service

16 | N E W S

Shop Window

BOSS IN NAPLES Luxury lifestyle brand Hugo Boss has just opened its frst store in Naples, ofering stylish menswear from three of its labels – Hugo, Boss and Boss Green – as well as a wide selection of suave accessories. The sleek space refects the German brand’s signature aesthetic of modern design and understated luxury, with clean lines and classic materials such as glass and wood. Embracing and reworking the Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52

architecture of the classic building that houses it, the store is a charming mix of old and new, with exposed brickwork sitting comfortably alongside glass panelling and minimalist furniture. With great service guaranteed and soft leather armchairs dotted about the shop, visitors are guaranteed a quality retail experience. hl Hugo Boss, Via dei Mille 41, 80121 Naples, +39 081 401424, hugoboss.com * for map go to page 42

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GOLDEN DREAMS Sicily has provided rich inspiration for Dolce & Gabbana in the past – not surprising, perhaps, given that Domenico Dolce was born there – and this season the label has looked to the island’s ancient history, in particular its coins. Whether dangling from earrings or splashed across the design duo’s trademark sultry dresses, the gold discs stole the show on the catwalk. Kitsch yet glamorous, the eye-catching collection shows once again that

PHOTO: MOnica feudi/feudi Guaineri

BRIGHT IDEA

Dolce & Gabbana can always fnd something fresh and exciting to say. hl Dolce & Gabbana, Via Camerelle 39-41, 80073 Capri, +39 081 837 7154, dolcegabbana.com * for map go to page 49 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52

Inspiration comes from unexpected places. For Fred Prysquel, who founded luxury swimwear brand Vilebrequin in 1971, the ‘eureka’ moment came while he was seated outside a café in sunny Saint-Tropez. Contemplating the colourful scene around him, he began to sketch a pair of swim shorts on his tablecloth, and so the signature Vilebrequin design was born. These shorts were soon a musthave item for every stylish man, and remain a signifer of taste to this day. Visit the Capri boutique to fnd row upon row of these classic, colourful creations. hl Vilebrequin, Via Camerelle 8, 80073 Capri, +39 081 838 9468, vilebrequin.com * for map go to page 49

S H O P | 19

PHOTO: Milena GarGiulO

FOREVER ARMANI From a collection that explores every shade of blue from navy to pastel, what actually caught our eye from Giorgio Armani’s spring/ summer menswear ofering was the small selection of pieces in beautiful pink and peach tones. Chinos and T-shirts in suave chalky shades are paired with lightweight tailored jackets to create a sleek and refreshing alternative to summer suiting. Additional interest is found in the collection’s details – a

SHE’S SO MODERN Max Mara’s latest collection has a decidedly modernist look compared with the neutral tones and understated sophistication for which it has become known. The trademark sleek and simple styles remain, but the use of sheer and shimmery fabrics, metallics and vivid colour blocking in electric blue, tangerine and violet adds an exciting edge. Satin slips, slinky separates and minimalist tailored jackets provide a fresh approach to luxury layering, making Max Mara our go-to brand for unequivocal city-chic style this summer. gl Max Mara, Corso Italia 102-104, 80067 Sorrento, +39 081 878 2785, maxmara.com * for map go to page 46 globalblue.com

subtle texture on the chinos, a twotoned lapel, the variety of necklines – marking an exemplary evolution of Armani’s eternally sophisticated Italian style. gl Emporio Armani, Piazza dei Martiri 61-62, 80121 Naples, +39 081 425816, armani.com * for map go to page 42

20 | N E W S

ODE TO GENIUS

PRETTY CHIC Taking inspiration from fairy tales, ballerinas and botanicals, Red Valentino presents a captivating collection for spring/summer. The Valentino difusion line, created for the ‘romantic eccentric dresser’, has femininity at its heart, as seen in its bows, rufes and layered tutu skirts. The inclusion of some clean tailoring and a demure colour palette contributes an elegant element, with a retro twist in the form of 1950s silhouettes and Peter Pan collars. Imagine attire suitable for a modern-day debutante and you’ll see the allure of this delightful collection. gl Red Valentino, Corso Vittoria Colonna 180, 80077 Ischia, +39 081 991606, redvalentino.com * for map go to page 45 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52

Montblanc’s limited-edition Great Characters series, a collection of beautifully crafted writing instruments named after iconic fgures of the 20th century, was unveiled in 2009. For its latest addition to the range, however, Montblanc has headed further back in time to pay tribute to one of the most celebrated artistic fgures of the Italian Renaissance. The Great Characters Limited Edition Leonardo fountain pen and rollerball pen draw inspiration from the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci, with several clever references to his pioneering ideas. The handcrafted solid 750 gold and rhodium-plated nib is engraved with a bat’s wing, which inspired da Vinci’s design for a fying machine; the red goldplated gear at the end of the clip evokes the cogwheels that featured so often in the Italian genius’s work; and the Montblanc emblem concealed within the pen’s cap, which is only visible in the mirror inside the cap top, is inspired by da Vinci’s habit of writing his notes backwards. rp Montblanc, Via Gaetano Filangieri 38, 80121 Naples, +39 081 400057, montblanc.com * for map go to page 42

S H O P | 23

LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL

PHOTO: SiPa PreSS/reX

Food and sumptuous womanly fashion are celebrated with equal passion in Italy. Elle Blakeman looks at the connection between the country’s twin loves

‘Everything you see, I owe to spaghetti,’ Sophia Loren – Italy’s unoffcial queen of style – once famously said. It encapsulates perfectly the fact that the Italian spirit has never been one for half measures. This is a country known for its passion – for food, for art, for architecture, for passion itself – and this sense of exuberance afects everything. The unwavering desire to live la dolce vita, or the good life, can be most easily be seen in the Italian approach to food, for Italians will talk about food in a way that other nations reserve for discussing politics or sport: it is respected, dissected and fercely argued over. 54 / 62

Italians are frm believers in the concept that one cannot think well, love well or sleep well if one hasn’t eaten well, which is probably why the ‘Eat’ segment of the recent Julia Roberts flm Eat, Pray, Love was set in Rome and in Naples, a city fercely proud of its reputation for peerless pizzas and other specialities made using the best local ingredients that nature can provide. Respect is something that’s also ofered to the women of Italy, who are also celebrated for their natural appeal. Not for them the hours of honing and starving into a set ideal – as Julia Roberts’ character so wittily demonstrates in Eat, Opposite: Valentino Haute Couture spring/summer 2008

PHOTO: FiliPPO FiOr/indiGiTal/GOrunway.cOm

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Pray, Love as she happily struggles to ft into her jeans after indulging in Italian delights – unlike many of their counterparts elsewhere in the world; to be adored, an Italian woman need only to worry about her attitude. ‘All women are sensual. We love them all,’ says Stefano Gabbana, one half of Italian label Dolce & Gabbana. ‘It’s about attitude,’ he adds, reminding us that little is less seductive than a woman who refuses to eat, to smile and to enjoy Above: Gucci autumn/winter 2013/14

life. For almost three decades, Gabbana has been celebrating the female form with partner Domenico Dolce, yet both have maintained since the very beginning that nothing is as appealing as a black bra. It’s a theme that can be seen consistently across their collections from 1985 to the spring/summer 2014 show, where the classic bustier and black lace slip aesthetic that has become a signature for the duo makes an appearance. However, woe betide anyone who thinks that it’s all

PHOTO: mOnica Feudi/FeudiGuaineri

S H O P | 25

The ability to admire real women is a feature of many of Italy’s most celebrated designers

about being decorative: one of the great things about Italian fashion is that it dresses women, not girls. The ability to admire and empower real women is a characteristic of many of Italy’s most celebrated designers: the scarlet, foor-length creations by Valentino, the powerful, mess-with-me-atyour-peril power jackets and gowns at Gucci, and the perfectly tailored suits of Armani all share a general approach of ‘less is more’ when it comes to fuss.

Above (from lef): dolce and Gabbana; Gucci (both spring/summer 2014)

PHOTO: © CinECiTTa STuDiOS

26 | F E AT U R E S

Italian fashion, like its beloved cuisine, is characterised by its strength in simplicity; like the pasta dish made all the better for containing just a handful of exquisite fresh ingredients, the Little Black Dress that hugs and pulls in all the right places needs nothing more to complete it. The silhouette is key: ‘The hardest thing in fashion is not to be known for a logo, but to be known for a silhouette,’ agrees Giambattista Valli. Italian designers are lucky enough to be immersed in an artisanal culture of fne craftsmanship, with techniques and skills passed down through the generations. When combined with a national adoration of the female shape, these skills inform their designs from the outset. As Sophia Loren once noted, ‘A woman’s dress should be like a barbed-wire fence: serving its Above: Anita Ekberg in La Dolce Vita, 1960

purpose without obstructing the view’; for Italians, it’s about the woman frst, the dress second. The culture outside of fashion supports this, with the nation’s most iconic flms boasting voluptuous stars who would bring many a man to his knees: think of the glorious Anita Ekberg swimming in the Trevi fountain in La Dolce Vita. And who could forget the feminine fgure of Sophia Loren in El Cid beguiling the unwilling Charlton Heston into doing her bidding. ‘The elegance of Italian simplicity runs through their style in everything they do and every aesthetic they hold dear,’ agrees fashion expert and stylist Sarah Hogan. ‘You cannot beat a beautiful, curvy Italian woman such as Monica Bellucci in a little black Dolce & Gabbana dress – it’s simply the perfect silhouette.’

Superb craftsmanship coupled with impeccable design: no wonder Italy’s fne leather accessories labels are proving such a hit with men around the world, says Ruairidh Pritchard 56 / 63

Above: Cellerini’s cuting workshop

PHOTO: © Gianni CeCCanTi

ALL IN THE DETAIL

The Made in Italy label has been synonymous with exceptional quality for centuries. Those in the know have always valued the traditional skills of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artisans who today, more than ever, are turning their talents to producing the fnest leather accessories

for men. From shoes to hats, bags to belts and wallets to luggage, Italian handcrafted leather goods are reaching new heights of luxury. One of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success stories is Cellerini. Started by Silvano Cellerini in the early 1950s, the label began with just one sewing

PHOTO: © GiAnni CeCCAnTi

S H O P | 31

machine and a hide, bought with a small inheritance. A decade later Cellerini and his wife had expanded the business, creating leather handbags and luggage for some of the most afuent Florentine families of the time. Now the label is headed up by the founder’s daughter Alessandra, who is keen to ensure that her parents’ dedication to peerless quality endures. Many of the working practices that went into creating Cellerini’s frst bag are still followed: all leather cutting is done entirely by hand by the label’s ex-

perienced craftspeople. The pieces are then painstakingly trimmed by hand before being sewn together, a process which has been assisted by the advancements in manufacturing technology. Similarly, Cellerini continues to provide the level of personalisation that it ofered more than half a century ago. Thanks to a vast choice of calfskins, linings, threads and hardware, customers can have Cellerini create their very own bespoke Italian leather masterpiece. Another family-owned atelier with a claim to the title of ‘Italy’s

Above (clockwise from top lef): Cellerini travel bags and men’s briefcase; Alessandra Cellerini in the brand’s workshop

32 | F E AT U R E S

fnest’ is Santoni, which has been creating some of the best handmade shoes to come out of Milan since it was set up in 1975 by Andrea Santoni. Over the decades, the label – now helmed by a second generation of Santonis – has expanded to become one of the country’s largest home-grown shoemakers, while keeping its key values of quality, passion for detail and working exclusively by hand intact. The brand’s two key pillars – innovation and tradition – still provide a solid foundation for its work. These days Santoni combines traditional expert hand craftsmanship with pioneering production techniques to ensure that every item of footwear fts as perfectly as possible, whether it’s a brogue or a Chelsea boot.

A great deal of efort goes into sourcing the most sought-after hides and fabrics to ensure that each style is comfortable, practical and durable as well as stylish. Nowhere is this more evident than in the brand’s latest Limited Edition Collection, whose designs and materials are overseen by Andrea Santoni himself. From the frst cut of the carefully selected leather to the fnal fre-branding with the Santoni mark, each step is done by hand, and there is no time limit for the creation of a single pair of shoes. Considering that one leathertinting phase can require over 15 applications of colour, this proves that craftsmanship remains at the forefront of Santoni’s production. However, it isn’t just new Italian products that are fnding favour with well-heeled men; vintage

Above (from top): both Santoni spring/summer 2014; Giuseppe Santoni photographed at Santoni’s Milan store with actors Pierfrancesco Favino, Juliete Binoche and Beppe Fiorello

S H O P | 33

and restored antique leather goods are becoming more popular among those looking to invest in some beautiful Italian leather. Bernardini in Milan is a treasure trove of lovingly restored and rare antique pieces. The store was founded by Max Bernardini in 1996, who was inspired by his father’s work in importing fne antiques for some of Italy’s wealthiest families. The inviting emporium, which even has its own full-time bartender, is home to an eclectic collection of rare and expertly sourced goods, ranging from vintage travel trunks, suitcases and vanity boxes from the likes of Prada and Gucci, many of them made to order for wealthy European explorers during expeditions to Africa in the early 20th century. The diversity and desirability of the stock is as clear an illustration as any of Italy’s long history of making high-quality leather goods. Above: Santoni crafsmanship

Italian leather accessories are long-lasting style investments

For the modern man, it’s clear that Italian leather accessories are not only long-lasting investments in style, but also ofer an intriguing insight into the rich tradition of expert craftsmanship and made-to-measure personalisation that have long been the signature of a truly well-dressed man and a sign of Italian dedication to true luxury cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it

34 | E X P E R I E N C E

stay in style The world’s fnest hotels occupy sought-after locations, boast striking interior designs and ofer a wide range of amenities. SHOP shares its pick of the very best

The Thief Art lovers will fnd much to engage their senses at the eclectic Thief hotel. Set in one of Oslo’s most creative districts, the hotel is close to the city’s fnest restaurants, bars and art galleries, while also ofering its own impressive collection of contemporary art. Curated by Sune Nordgren, this includes pieces from Norwegian and interglobalblue.com

national artists and can be admired throughout the hotel. Modern designer furnishings and pop art inspired décor add to the rooms’ appeal, while the on-site restaurant, Fru K, uses fresh Norwegian produce to impressive efect. The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo, +47 2400 4000, thethief.com

PHOTO: JOsHua sT JOHn

S H O P | 35

The WesTbury hoTel The Westbury Hotel boasts a central location, within walking distance of Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main attractions, luxurious facilities and exceptional service. Every room is modern and well appointed, ofering everything from custom-designed furnishings to premium bathroom products,

while staf are on hand 24 hours a day to cater to your every need. The hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s amenities are equally alluring; start your day with a full Irish breakfast at the Wilde restaurant or enjoy afternoon tea in the gallery, surrounded by Irish works of art. The Westbury Hotel, Grafton Street, Dublin 2, +353 (0)1 679 1122, doylecollection.com

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DESTINATION GUIDES Don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. They take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas, whether you’re looking for leather, jewellery or the best womenswear.

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FASHION WEEKS & STREET STYLE Follow us online for the latest from Europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show round-ups and insider shopping guides.

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E X P E R I E N C E | 37

Waldorf astoria Berlin The newly opened Waldorf Astoria Berlin strikes the perfect balance between timeless elegance and modern amenities. Its location in the heart of West Berlin is within walking distance of a host of attractions, and the hotel itself ofers myriad facilities. Visitors to Les Solistes, the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant, will delight in the way its menu globalblue.com

fuses traditional French cooking methods with contemporary ingredients, textures and favours, while those hosting a special event are sure to be impressed by the ballroom. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the Guerlain spa with its menu of soothing body, face and massage treatments, indoor pool and state-of-the-art exercise equipment. Waldorf Astoria Berlin, Hardenbergstrasse 28, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 814 0000, waldorfastoria3.hilton.com

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G U I D E | 41

Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar region is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Naples and its islands with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

42 | G U I D E

Naples Via Santa Caterina, Via Calabritto & Piazza dei Martiri LIU JO ● ZEITHOUSE ● NUVOLA ●

TA C

D IE

BAR

ALA

V IA

AT E

● LUIGI DE SIMONE ● OLYMPUS ● EDDY MONETTI ● MAFFEI MONTEMURRO ● ● ALBANO ● L'ORAFO ROBERTA BIAGI ● ● MELLUSO ● MAISON D'ART NINO DE NICOLA ● ● ERNESTO ESPOSITO

P.19

● TWIN-SET ● MAXI HO OUTLET ● LA FELTRINELLI

EMPORIO ARMANI ●

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO UOMO ●

CO AR IA

A CA PP EL

LA VE IA CC H

EN ICO MO RE LL I

CARAMANNA SARLI LUCIA DE VINCENZO GALIANO SCHETTINI ELITE GIOIELLI GERRY WEBER

N N EL

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA CALABRITTO

PAOLO ● FIORILLO ● E. MELE HARMONT & BLAINE ● BRUNO & MARIO VALENTINO ● ● PISANO OROLOGI PRADA UOMO ● ● FINAMORE BRUNO & PISANO ● PRADA DONNA ● ● ILEANA DELLA CORTE GUCCI ● ● RAMIREZ COLLECTION TOD'S ● ● NOVELLI BOTTEGA VENETA ●

V I A VA

Piazza Dei Martiri

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G IO IE L LI V SAL IG VAT ORE CAL AB NERI S PA R IT T ● TA R O ELL ● A● E. MARINELLA ●

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ON ● H E EL UGO T TI LO BO ● CU AT SS CI EL ● CAMPER ● N LI RO ELL I● SS P.10 RU E T T I● CO ● TRU TRUSSA RDI LI FA ● BURBER RY LC N E TA ● ON KE E ● AMINA RUBINAC CI SH AN RI ● IK B NA ● MONETT I UR LU LI ● OS GI ● FRETTE RL A P W SP ● LOUIS VUITTON PR INK A ● ● AG O FE AD O ● BR DO N A ● UN NN DI ● FA ● O A ● M ● PO Y H ● A R O AG ● M O LT O G BU L T ● BU NT RO AN ON DE EM RM I ● CE ● V E LG B L N A SA FA N O I D A ● G A F H E ● RE A N BI E A RI ANC R A ● ● DO RM U AT R G E T I N L I ● ● SO DO ÈS TO N O ● CE P.2 LI IO ● ● PE TT LE NI ● B U L L OZ 0 LU ST ● ● G I O O N I CC E RO CI IN O E ● OT IE A N R DA E N ● ● LU TIC LL NO IA B M NE ER D 'A IA ● ● MA IGI A C I NA N VI NA O ● GO X BO AR PP TT BU TT I ● SC ● C A L D M A R R AV A N O O R N D OI C A ON ● GI R A EN R A EL AN LI T CE IOS ● I ● OT O I E CC P O E RI O I L T ● ALB IC LI OL INT NO ● O A P P OR ER P RE ● E T TO O DO ST A G LA U N NO AR E DI AN TR I AM ON VI T A AN CH O ● ● RU BI NA CC I

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anna Matuozzo caMIceRIa Highlighting the heritage tailoring principles that have long distinguished neapolitan style, anna Matuozzo camiceria specialises in bespoke shirt making. Quality is paramount in the materials used and in the standard of craftsmanship displayed, with a range that includes not just shirts but polo shirts, jackets and ties. every shirt is made to measure and is cut and sewn by hand, resulting in pieces that are sure to become enduring wardrobe staples. there are styles available for both men and women, ofered alongside a range of accessories including silk ties, characterful cufinks and matching pyjama sets.

Anna Matuozzo Camiceria, viale Gramsci 26, 80122 naples, +39 081 663874, annamatuozzo.it

Il RIstoRantIno dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; avvocato chef Rafaele cardillo is known for adding his own creative touches to traditional neapolitan cuisine. the region is renowned for its high-quality ingredients and cardillo uses them to great efect: think bluefn tuna served with anchovies and fennel; and linguine topped with sea algae and dill-marinated shrimps.

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Il Ristorantino dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Avvocato, via san lucia 115-117, 80132 naples, +39 081 032 0047, ilristorantinodellavvocato.it

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Ischia

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Family company Scaglione frst opened in ischia in 1934 and since then has earned a reputation for stocking the world’s fnest designer fashion brands alongside its own label. The brand’s historic boutique spans two foors. Downstairs is a bridegroom atelier and made-to-measure tailoring station, while the top foor plays host to an extensive range of accessories. expect pieces by ermenegildo Zegna, Pal Zileri, Kiton and Hugo Boss to feature. Scaglione, Via alfredo de luca 111, 80077 ischia, +39 081 991329, scaglionegroup.com

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carlo lambitelli’s boutiques showcase the fnest ‘made in italy’ products, ofering clothing and accessories by some of

carlo lamBiTelli

AR KU O BR OV M O ● EL LI ● PR ES JO EP MA HA I I X● RM L CA Ù UO PR MO ● ON IL ES T& ● M VIA ● BL INO PIS ERC EN GI ● AI AN OI EA OL ● NE EL OT T TE G O ● LE IC RI ● FO RI A P BR A D IP O O P.2 C A J U EL VE ● P O LO ● 0 LL RL DI C AM R L T I O R E L A H M I U J O T● AL ● D V MB A JO ● U’ SC AL ITE R ● ● E L VI CI A AG L A IO ● SW NTIN LI ● R RE M A AV N E P H V E AT O ● MI ZZ OL ● ILO T T CH O RE GI A SO OR ● G AG ● PH I ● AR INE VI IA Y● AE PE NT ● LL GI D G B OT UR O ● IEL A R TIG CO PA L L ER DO UL IE ● I R A & L CO I AC LA SH RT ● AP P AR RE ES K D ERL GL SE A E ON EN PIÙ NA FI EL DO D● NN A

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the country’s best designers, including Dondup and aspesi. Carlo Lambitelli, corso Vittoria colonna 137 & 160, 80077 ischia, +39 081 982486, carlolambitelli.it

Corso Vittoria Colonna

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PAUL & SHARK ● DI SOMMA GIOIELLI ● FEDERICO CAMMARATA ● APONTE ANTONINO ●

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MA ● HARMONT & BLAINE I DE GAIA ● ● LINA PACE LU IG PROFUMERIA GIUSY ● ● ACA 251 SORRENTO ● ● CARPISA GARGIULO CALZATURE ● ● MARESCA SPORT CENTRO DELLA SETA ● ● RITA SHOP WOLFUR ● ● BENETTON DI MAIO ●

EGIN

FATTORUSSO ● OLTRE ● ESPOSITO MARIA ●

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● PIAZZA ITALIA ● OTTICA AZZURRO ● BOTTEGA DEL GIOIELLO ● NANNINI ● OTTICA DI CAPUA

Striking the perfect balance between tradition and creativity, the linen collections at Bellora are sure to have widespread appeal. Simplicity and elegance defne the range. Bellora, Piazza San antonino 7, 80067 Sorrento, +39 081 807 5684, bellora.it

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COIN CASA ● PISCOPO JEWELRY ● SWAROVSKI ● ANNA FOTI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● ILEANA DELLA CORTE ● VANNA BOUTIQUE ●

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Bellora

48 | G U I D E

Capri Masterpiece the extensive selection of contemporary and classic Murano glass stocked at Masterpiece is sure to appeal to both locals and visitors alike. the range of items on ofer is vast, with many pieces handmade by artisan craftsmen. Be sure to admire the store’s complementary range of glass and silver costume jewellery, and take advantage of Masterpiece’s attentive service standards to ensure you leave with the perfect souvenir.

Masterpiece, Via roma 31-33, 80073 capri, +39 081 837 0785

Via Roma

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● IMPERATORE DI CAPRI

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La capannina

welcomed over the years have delighted in delicacies such as ravioli alla caprese (with fresh ricotta and marjoram) and stufed squid. La Capannina, Via Le Botteghe 12, 80073 capri, +39 081 837 0732, capanninacapri.com

the traditional cuisine and inviting interior of popular capri eatery La capannina have attracted an illustrious clientele since the restaurant opened in 1931. the local luminaries and international screen stars it has

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DELLA CIANA ● CAPRI & CAPRI ● DSQUARED2 ● ASPESI ● WHITE ● ERES ● FISICO ● EMILIO PUCCI ● MODA CAPRESE ● SUD ● MISSONI ● HARMONT & BLAINE JUNIOR ● BALENCIAGA ● LORO PIANA ● VIA IGNA ZIO CERIO ● MOSCHINO GREY FLANNEL UOMO ● ● LA CONCHIGLIA BULGARI ● ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI UOMO HERMÈS ● ● CASADEI P.18 DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● LOUIS VUITTON ALBERTA FERRETTI ● ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI DONNA GUCCI ● ● HARMONT & BLAINE RUSSO DONNA ● ● ANTICA SARTORIA ASPERULA STELLINA ● ● CHANTAL DIESEL ● ● CAPRI TIME ● CARTHUSIA E.D.L. CALZATURE ● ● FENDI EMPORIO ARMANI ● ● VHERNIER PAUL & SHARK ● P.18 ● VILEBREQUIN CANFORA ●

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Grotta azzurra

all the red tones of the sunlight with intense results. Visit at midday to see the efect at its most spectacular. Grotta Azzurra, 80073 Capri

Grotta azzurra, or the Blue Grotto, is Capri’s most famous natural wonder. Visitors can hire one of the wooden rowing boats moored in the bay outside the sea cave and sit back while their boatman navigates the narrow entrance to view the spectacle up close. Flickering blue and silver lights fll the space, for the sea water absorbs

● VI ● LA A R ● T O PA O M LA D’ R A I G S SIE EM N N M E A

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SALVATORE FERRAGAMO UOMO ● ALBERTO E LINA ● ALBERTO ● INTERNATIONAL PERFUMERY PEPINO ● ROBERTO CAVALLI ● ALBERTO GUARDIANI ● SNOBBERIE ● MASSA ● OTTICA AZZURRO ● ● LA CAPRESE D&G ● FIORE ● ● BENETTON JULIA ● ● TRUCCHI GIOVANNETTI ● SERAFINA FERRARO ● ● CHANTECLER JOHN RICHMOND ● ● BOUTIQUE ERSILIA RELLE ● ZILLI ART GALLERY ● AM E VIA C MIU MIU ●

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Designer Outlet La Reggia Designer Outlet La Reggia, Strada Provinciale 336 Sannitica, 81025 Marcianise, +39 0823 510244, mcarthurglen.com Opening times Monday-Sunday: 10am-9pm

PErFECt DaY

How to GEt tHErE By car take the a1 motorway from rome to Naples. From the Caserta Sud-Marcianise exit, follow the outlet signs; from the Pomigliano-Villa Literno exit, follow the signs to Caivano; or from the Caserta Nord exit, follow the signs to Marcianise. By train

10am Start your day admiring the elegant and easy-to-wear wool collections showcased at Amina Rubinacci.

take the Naples-Cassinorome line to Caserta railway station. a bus service runs from the station to the outlet every 30 minutes. By shuttle bus

Enjoy a quick cofee break at Café Luisi.

the La reggia shuttle bus runs every day from Naples city centre. the bus departs from Piazza Municipio at 10am and 3.30pm and leaves the outlet at 2pm and 7pm.

3pm

7pm

Visit Enrico Coveri to discover the label’s unconventional collection.

End your day by purchasing the perfect fnishing touch from Segue’s bag range.

12pm

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2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our refund ofces.

Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund ofces an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Refund Ofces Milan Malpensa Airport

Check in Area 2nd Floor

To Gate

Area B Extra Schengen 1st Floor

Area A Schengen 1st Floor

Rome Fiumicino Airport To Gate G

To Gate G-H

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To Gate Area D

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To Gate Area B

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Refund ofce details:

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Airside

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Check-in area

Information

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Naples Capodichino Airport Alisud Departures, Check-In Travelex, Boarding Ischia Point Ru tour operator, Via Alfredo de Luca 101

PHOTO: mOnica feudi/feudiGuaineri

Translations

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 22: Life Is Beautiful

Жизнь прекрасна Элли Блейкман рассказывает, как связаны две самые большие страсти всех итальянцев – еда и красивая одежда «Всем, что вы видите, я обязана спагетти», сказала однажды королева итальянского стиля Софи Лорен. И это высказывание прекрасно характеризует истинно итальянскую globalblue.com

бескомпромиссность. В Италии царит страсть: еда, искусство, архитектура, даже страсть к самой страсти – и этот взрыв чувств влияет буквально на все. Непреодолимое желание жить в стиле la dolce vita ярче всего проявляется в отношении к еде. Здесь о ней говорят так, как представители других страны могут обсуждать политику или спорт: достойно, детально и, конечно, темпераментно. Итальянцы твердо верят, что невозможно думать, сильно любить или даже крепко спать, не уделив предварительно время трапезе.

Возможно, именно поэтому для эпизода, посвященного наслаждению едой, в фильме с Джулией Робертс «Ешь, молись, люби» были выбраны Рим и Неаполь. Бесподобная пицца и другие специалитеты составляют предмет гордости Неаполя, и готовят их из лучших ингредиентов местного происхождения. Не меньшим почтением в Италии пользуется естественная женская красота. В отличие от миллионов женщин по всему миру, итальянки не готовы тратить время на сложный макияж или диеты в погоне за идеалом. Это остроумно обыграно в другом эпизоде «Ешь, молись, люби», когда героиня Робертс пытается влезть в любимые джинсы после сытного итальянского ужина. Осанка и харизма – вот все, что нужно сеньорите, чтобы ей восхищались. «Женщины чувственны от природы. За это мы их и любим, - декларирует Стефано Габбана, со-основатель итальянского модного дома Dolce & Gabbana, – Все дело в харизме». Едва ли в Италии сочтут привлекательной женщину, которая отказывается от еды, не улыбается и не умеет наслаждаться жизнью. Уже почти три десятилетия Габбана и его партнер Доменико Дольче прославляют женственность форм, с первого дня подчеркивая, что ничто так не украшает тело, как черный корсет.

Этот мотив красной нитью проходит сквозь все их коллекции – с 1985 года и до показа сезона весна/лето 2014. Классическое бюстье и черное кружево новой серии напоминают о фирменной эстетике творческого тандема. Однако не стоит думать, что это все делается ради декоративного эффекта. Важно понимать, что итальянская мода творится не для девочек, но для женщин. Творчество самых известных дизайнеров Италии восхищает и вдохновляет настоящих леди: алые платья в пол Valentino, впечатляющие жакеты и платья Gucci, идеально скроенные костюмы Armani – их объединяет подход «меньше значит больше». Ведь сила простоты здесь присуща не только кухне, но и моде. Для идеальной пасты необходимо совсем немного изысканных свежих ингредиентов. Аналогично и маленькое черное платье: подчеркивая все достоинства фигуры, оно не нуждается в дополнениях. Все дело в силуэте: «Прославиться логотипом несложно. Гораздо интереснее создать выдающийся силуэт», - подчеркивает Джамбаттиста Валли. Дизайнерам Италии посчастливилось иметь дело с культурой изящных ремесел, где техники и профессиональные секреты передаются из поколения в поколение. Как и восхищение истинной женственностью,

это пронизывает любое их творение. «Женское платье - как забор из колючей проволоки: оно должно служить своим целям, не загораживая вид», афористично заметила Софи Лорен. И это правда: для итальянцев на первом плане женщина, а затем - ее платье. Это закреплено в культурном коде. Например, культовыми фильмы этой страны сделали чувственные актрисы, способные заставить многих мужчин опуститься на колени. Вспомните хотя бы роскошную Аниту Экберг, плавающую в фонтане Треви в фильме «Сладкая жизнь». А разве можно забыть женственность Софи Лорен в ленте «Эль Сид», в которой ее героиня умело повела за собой сурового персонажа Чарлтона Хестона. «Элегантность итальянской простоты лежит в основе их стиля и эстетики, подтверждает модный эксперт и стилист Сара Хоган. – Никто не сможет превзойти красивую, изящную итальянку Монику Белуччи в маленьком черном платье Dolce & Gabbana. Ведь этот силуэт идеален». 28: All In The Detail

Совершенство в деталях Превосходное мастерство в сочетании с безупречным дизайном: не удивительно, что итальянские аксессуары из натуральной кожи так globalblue.com

популярны среди с мужчин по всему миру, говорит Руайрид Притчард Знак «Made in Italy» на протяжении веков считался синонимом исключительного качества и непревзойденного мастерства. Знающие люди всегда ценили аксессуары, изготовленные руками итальянских ремесленников, и сегодня их талант востребован как никогда раньше. Начиная от обуви, шляп и ремней и заканчивая бумажниками и сумками – итальянские изделия из кожи сегодня достигли новых стандартов роскоши. Cellerini – один из успешных итальянских проектов, задуманный Сильвано Целлерини еще в начале 1950-х годов. Его производство состояло всего из одной швейной машинки и нескольких отрезков кожи, купленных на деньги от небольшого наследства. Десять лет спустя Целлерини и его жена решили расширить ассортимент, начав пошив кожаных сумок и чемоданов для зажиточных флорентийских семей. Теперь бренд возглавляет дочь основателя – Алессандра, которая заботится о том, чтобы утвержденные родителями стандарты качества оставались всегда на высоте. Множество техник, использованных для пошива самой первой сумки бренда, по-прежнему

актуальны: раскрой кожи всегда выполняется только вручную опытными ремесленниками, затем отдельные куски тщательно обрезаются и сшиваются с применением самых последних технологий. Кроме всего прочего, Cellerini продолжает предлагать услуги персонального пошива изделий, как и пол века тому назад. Благодаря широкому разнообразию кожи, подкладочных тканей, ниток и фурнитуры, Cellerini может создать любое изделие из натуральной итальянской кожи специально по заказу клиента. Santoni – еще одно известное ателье, претендующее на звание лучшего в Италии. Оно было основано в 1975 году миланским портным Андреа Сантони и занимается пошивом роскошной обуви ручной работы. Сейчас брендом управляет уже второе поколение семьи Сантони, которому удалось не только расширить производство до уровня крупнейшего в стране, но и сохранить семейные ценности: качество, внимание к деталям и мастерство, полностью основанное на ручном труде. Два ключевых направления бренда – инновации и традиции – до сих пор обеспечивают прочную основу для работы. Сегодня Santoni сочетает в себе традиционное мастерство ручной работы и последние новаторские технологии производства. В результате

каждая пара обуви, будь то туфли или полуботинки, сидит на ноге просто идеально. Немало усилий уходит на поиск отборных сортов кожи и ткани, которые смогут обеспечить обуви комфортность, прочность и неотразимый внешний вид. Лучшим примером такого подхода служит последняя коллекция бренда – Limited Edition Collection, дизайном которой занимался сам Андреа Сантони. Все этапы создания обуви, начиная с первого раскроя тщательно отобранной кожи и заканчивая нанесением финальных фирменных штрихов, выполняются исключительно вручную и могут занимать неограниченное количество времени. Например, окраска кожи может состоять из более чем 15 этапов, что еще раз доказывает насколько ручной труд и мастерство ценятся на производстве Santorini. Однако вкусы стильных мужчин сегодня не ограничиваются лишь новинками итальянских аксессуаров. Все большую популярность среди поклонников красивого итальянского ремесла приобретают винтажные изделия из кожы. Миланский магазин Bernardini – настоящая сокровищница со множеством прекрасных старинных изделий, восстановленных должным образом. Основателем магазина в 1996 году был

Макс Бернардинию. На идею открытия нового дела в како-то мере повлиял бизнес его отца, долгое время торговавшего изысканным антиквариатом. В магазине посетителей ждет эклектичная коллекция редких и тщательно подобранных изделий, начиная от винтажных саквояжей, чемоданов и заканчивая дамскими сумочками Prada и Gucci. Многие из изделий были сделаны на заказ специально для богатых европейских путешественников еще во времена первых африканских экспедиций начала 20-х годов. Разнообразие и привлекательность коллекции служат прекрасной иллюстрацией многовекового качества итальянского производства, особенно в отношении изделий из кожи. Современные мужчины прекрасно понимают, что приобретение кожаных аксессуаров итальянского производства связано не только с выгодными инвестициями. Аксессуары могут дать весьма четкое представление о богатых итальянских традициях мастерства и пошива вещей на заказ. Изготовленные вручную аксессуары всегда были и остаются визитной карточкой итальянской роскоши и отличительным признаком по-настоящему хорошо одетого мужчины. cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it globalblue.com

52: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная

комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными. 美文翻译

22: Life Is Beautiful

甜美生活意大利人将同等热情投诸于丰盛美食与华丽女装。与Elle Blakeman 一起探索该国两大爱好之间的亲密关系 “目之所见的一切，无不是意大利面的功绩。”这是意大利风尚无冕之王 Sophia Loren的名言。其充分说明意大利精神中从不容纳折中主义。这个国度为热情而生— —对于食物、对于艺术、对于建筑或是对于热情自身——这种奔放的情感在各方面产生影响。对于la dolce vita即甜蜜生活至死不渝的追求，可从意大利人对待食物的态度中略见端倪，意大利人会以别国人讨论政治或体育的热情，来讨论食物：无不是满怀敬意、深刻剖析、辩论热烈的争论。意大利人坚定地认为，人们如果不能吃得好，就无法好好思考、恋爱、或是睡觉，这或许也是Julia Roberts最近的电影Eat,Pray,Love的“食物”单元，将场景设于罗马与那不勒斯的原因，后者以制作无可匹敌的披萨、以及各种使用大自然赋予的本地上佳食材制作的特色菜而闻名。意大利的女性同样备受尊重，人们为女性的自然吸引力而欢庆。痛苦的长期挨饿与为身材而节食从不是他们的作风——正如Julia Roberts在Eat,Pray,Love中的角色风趣展示的，她在享用完意大利美食后，

心满意足地挣扎着套上牛仔裤—— 与世界其他角落的女人们大相径庭；想要赢得推崇，意大利女性需要担心的只是她们的态度而已。 “所有的女人都是感性的。我们爱他们全部，” 意大利品牌 Dolce&Gabbana的半壁江山Stefano Gabbana表示。“这完全关乎态度，”他补充道，并提醒我们没有什么比女人不愿意吃、不愿意微笑与享受生活更让人觉得丧气的了。近3 0 年来，G abba n a与搭档D o menico Dolce自始至终讴歌着女性形象，因为没有比黑色胸衣更吸引人的衣物了。这一主题反复出现在他们从1985年到2014年春/夏发布的系列中，其中经典的紧身胸衣和幼滑黑色蕾丝，已成为这对设计组合的招牌设计。然而，任何将女性视作花瓶的人都大错特错：意大利时装的伟大之处在于，它只装扮女人，而非女孩。” 从意大利众多享誉盛名的设计师身上，我们可以见到其对于女性的敬佩，他们用时装赋予女性力量：从Va lent i no的猩红色曳地礼服，Gucci充满慑人气场的夹克与晚礼服，到Armani完美的定制西服，无不透露出面对混乱时以“少即是多”应对的基本理念。意大利时尚如同其备受热爱的美食一般，因强调简单背后的力量而别具一格；就像一小把精致的新鲜食材就能让意大利面滋味出众，一袭穿着得体、穿着场合适宜的小黑裙不需要任何累赘的修饰。裙子的廓形是其中关键：“ 在时尚界最难做到的不是因为一个lo g o 被记住，而是因为某种廓形被记得。”Giambattista Valli非常认同此点。意大利设计师们幸运地浸染于精巧手工的历史文化中，继承了世代延续的手法与技巧。当与全国上下对于女性的崇敬相结合，这些

技艺便让设计师的作品从开始就脱颖而出。正如Sophia Loren曾指出的，“女性的衣服应该如同铁丝网：发挥功用却不阻挡视线”；对于意大利人而言，女性自身是第一位的，其次才是着装。时尚之外的舆论同样支持这一观点，该国最具标志性的电影无不启用引无数男性尽折腰的魅力女性出演：试想La Dolce Vita一片中，风采夺目的Anita Ekberg在Trevi喷泉嬉戏的场景。而谁又能忘记Sophia Loren在El Cid中扮演的女性角色，成功吸引了原本无意的C h a rlton Heston加入到对于她的追逐。 “意大利简约风格的优雅气息，透露在他们创造的所有造型，及倡导的所有美学理念之中，”时尚专家与造型师Sa ra h Hoga n认为。“ 你绝对无法击败一名光彩照人、曲线玲珑的意大利女人，譬如身着 Dolce&Gabbana小黑裙的Monica Bellucci——这就是完美轮廓的最佳定义。”

皮革，继承产业如此稀薄，谁也不成料想，十年之后，Cellerini与妻子将此品牌扩张做大，开创自主的皮革、手袋、行李箱，一度成为佛罗伦萨最富足的家族之一。该品牌如今为创始人之女Alessandra掌舵，她将父母所留下的绝世品质发扬光大。不少工艺技术依旧保持至今：皮革切割完全由熟练工匠手工精细完成。在缝制之前，所有皮革皆被小心裁剪，当然，如今日益先进的制造技术也为精良的制作贡献良多。同样，如今Cellerini所能提供的个性化定制，比半个世纪前更为琳琅满目。由于原材料的多样性，客户可以自主选择小牛皮、衬板、线和硬件等等来组装。但凡客户有所心愿，Cellerini皆可为其奉上意大利皮革杰作。另一家族工作室Santoni，可称得上意大利最好的品牌。此品牌由Andrea Santoni于1975年创立，在米兰城里内打造出精美绝伦的手工鞋。

28: All In The Detail

无可挑剔的设计加上精湛的制作工艺：难怪男人对意大利优良皮革如此痴醉，Ruairidh Pritchard如此说。几个世纪以来，“意大利制造”一直是非凡品质的代名词。这些知名品牌，一直将本国的工匠技能发扬光大。如今的优秀工匠们，比往昔更能将才华发挥得淋漓尽致，制作出最为出色的男装配件。从鞋子到帽子，皮带和钱包，行李箱，意大利的手工皮具均在奢侈品品质上创下新高。意大利的传奇之一是Cellerini。这个品牌由Silvano Cellerini在20 世纪50年代初创办，创办之时极为简陋，不过拥有一架缝纫机和若干 globalblue.com

痴醉细节

如今，Santoni第二代已掌舵数十年，壮大成为意大利本土最大制鞋企业之一。他们一直坚守着核心价值观品质，对细节保持不懈的激情，以及坚持一丝不苟手工打造工艺。 Santoni的两大关键支柱——创新与传统——仍然是该品牌坚实的基础。如今，Santoni结合了传统专家手工工艺与开拓性的生产技术，以确保每个品类臻至完美，无论是粗革皮鞋或是切尔西靴子。 Santoni不惜将大量精力投入采购最抢手珍稀的皮革和面料，以确保每种风格有着尽善尽美的舒适，实用耐用以及时尚美观。这些品质在最新限量珍藏版上得到最为完美的体现。所有设计和材料监督都由 Andrea Santoni亲自担当。从精心挑选的皮革到最终打上品牌火漆，每一步皆由手工费时费力完成。鞋子制作上几乎不计时间成本，皮革着色超过15道工序，这证明了Santoni对于工艺的重视程度。然而，意大利皮革并非只是新近在富人圈中流行。复古及古董皮具流传有序，如今越发为人重视，不乏有心人投资于漂亮的意大利皮革。米兰的Bernardini是一家古董行，专门经营精美珍稀古董。该店由 Max Bernardini始建于1996年，他的父亲一直以来为意大利最富有的家族进口精美古玩，他的热爱与灵感便来自于长期的耳濡目染。这家古董行气氛温馨，甚至拥有全职调酒师，是收集珍稀古董的专业场地，古董皮具应有尽有，无论是老式旅行箱包，手提箱或是梳妆盒，品牌还包括Prada和Gucci。这许多箱包当时为富裕的欧洲探险家而制。那些探险家便携此箱包在二十世纪初期第一次远征非洲。这些传奇的故事，多样的皮具，精美的设计都为意大利的品质皮具写下精彩不凡的注脚。

对于现代男人而言，意大利皮具不仅拥有恒久风格，更拥有丰富的专业工艺传统和个性化的定制技术。这不仅是意大利男人着装的标志风格，更是意大利制作对于奢侈品行业的杰出贡献。 cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it 52: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global B l u e）购物退税服务（Ta x F r e e Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程： 1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€154.94并且节约高达购买价格15.5%的金额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。

日本語翻訳

22: Life Is Beautiful ライフ・イズ・ビューティフルイタリア人は、食べ物と贅沢で女らしいファッションに等しく情熱を注いでいる。この国が愛するこの二つの関係を、エリー・ブレイクマンが探った。

PHOTO: SiPa PreSS/reX

「あなたの目に映る私の姿は全て、スパゲッティを食べてるおかげ。」―イタリアのスタイルの女王といわれるソフィア・ローレンがこう言ったことは有名だ。何でもふんだんが一番というイタリア人気質を見事に象徴した言葉だ。食、芸術、建築、そして情熱そのものに対しても情熱を注ぐことで知られる国だけに、この豊饒感があらゆるものに反映されている。

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ドルチェ・ヴィータ（いい人生）を生きたいという揺るがぬ願望が最も顕著に表れているのは、食に対するイタリア人の姿勢だ。他の国の国民が政治やスポーツについて意見を戦わせるのと同じ勢いで、イタリア人は食を語る。食に対して敬意を抱き、あれこれ分析し、猛烈な論戦を繰り広げるのだ。イタリア人は、「よく食べなければ、よく考え、よく愛し、よく眠ることはできない」と固く信じている。最近のジュリア・ロバーツ主演映画『食べて、祈って、恋をして』の「食べて」の部分がローマとナポリを舞台としているのは、おそらくそのせいだ。ナポリは特に、豊かな自然に恵まれた地元でとれる良質の食材を使ったピザやその他の特産料理で、右に出る者の無い評判を大いに誇っている。敬意はイタリア女性に対しても同じで、自然体の魅力が愛でられる。この国では、フィットネスに何時間も費やし、食事制限で理想の体形を手に入れるなど考えられない。ちょうど『食べて、祈って、恋をして』でジュリア・ロバーツが演じるキャラクターがイタリアでの食三昧の後にジーンズをはくのに四苦八苦する場面があるが、イタリア女性は他国の女性の多くとは違う。敬愛されるために大事なのは専ら心の持ちようなのだ。「女性はみんな官能的。全ての女性を愛してる」というのは、イタリアのブランド、ドルチェ＆ガッバーナの一人、ステファノ・ガッバーナだ。「要は生き方だ」という彼は、食べることや微笑むこと、人生を楽しむことを拒む女性ほど色気のないものはないことをしみじみ感じさせてくれる。ガッバーナはパートナーのドメニコ・ドルチェと共に、30 年近くにわたって女性の体形を賛美してきた。二人とも初期の頃から、黒いブラほど魅力的な物はないと言い続け、それが 1985 年か

63 ら今日まで一貫したテーマになっている。2014 年の春夏コレクションにも、このドュオの代表的スタイルとなった古典的なビュスチェや黒のレーススリップが登場した。だが、全ては装飾だと思ったら大間違い。イタリアンファッションの凄さの一つは、女の子ではなく女の装いだという点だ。本物の女を賞賛し力を与える能力は、イタリアの有名デザイナーの多くに共通して見られるものだ。ヴァレンティノの緋色のフロアレングスドレス、グッチの「手を出したら火傷するわよ」と言わんばかりのパワフルなジャケットやロングドレス、アルマーニの完璧な仕立てのスーツ。どれも皆、飾りは「レス・イズ・モア」というのが全般を通じた考え方だ。イタリアンファッションは、愛されるイタリア料理と同じようにシンプルさが身上だ。新鮮な極上食材を数種類だけ使うからこそ美味しいパスタに似て、身体にフィットし締めるところは締めたリトル・ブラックドレスは何も加えずともそれだけで完璧なのだ。鍵となるのはシルエット。「ファッション界で難しいのは、ロゴで知られるのでなくシルエットで知られること」というジャンバッティスタ・ヴァリも同感だ。イタリアのデザイナーはラッキーなことに、代々受け継がれてきた技巧と技能を持った優れた職人が織り成す職人文化に囲まれている。そうした技能と女性の体形を賛美する国柄が共に、彼らのデザインの基盤となっているのだ。ソフィア・ローレンがかつて言った。「女性のドレスは有刺鉄線のフェンスのようであるべき。景観を損なうことなく目的に適うことが大事」と。イタリア人にとって、ドレスよりもまず女性ありきなのだ。ファッション以外の文化も、この姿勢を踏襲している。イタリアを代表する映画には、世の男をメロメロにす

る肉感的なスターが登場する。『甘い生活』の中でトレビの泉で水と戯れるアニタ・エクバークの神々しい姿を思い浮かべてほしい。また、『エル・シド』で不本意なチャールトン・ヘストンをたぶらかして意のままにするソフィア・ローレンの女体を誰が忘れられようか。「イタリアのシンプルなエレガンスは、イタリア人のすること全てのスタイル、彼らが信奉する審美感の隅々に浸透している」というのは、ファッションエキスパートでスタイリストのサラ・ホーガン。「モニカ・ベルッチのような曲線的なイタリア女性がドルチェ＆ガッバーナの黒のミニドレスをまとった姿。これに勝る美はありません。まさしく完璧なシルエットです。

28: All In The Detail ディテールがすべて優れた職人技に非の打ちどころのないデザイン、イタリアの高級革製洋品ブランドが世界中の男性にうけているのも不思議はない。ルーリー・プリチャードがレポートする。何世紀も前から、「メイド・イン・イタリア」といえば一際優れた品質を意味してきた。通はこの国の職人が持つ伝統技能を常に高く評価してきたが、その職人たちが今、従来にも増してその才能を最高の革製紳士洋品の生産に注いでいる。靴から帽子、カバン、ベルト、財布、旅行カバンに至るまで、イタリアの手作り革製品はさらなる贅沢の極みに達している。イタリアのサクセスストーリーの一つがチェレリーニだ。シルヴァーノ・チェレリーニが1950 年代初頭に設立したこのブランドは、少額の遺産を元手に買ったミシン一台と獣皮一枚から出発した。10 年後、チェレリーニとそ

64 の妻は事業を拡大し、当時のフィレンツェの最富裕層を相手に、革のハンドバッグや旅行カバンを作り始める。現在このブランドを率いるのは創業者の娘アレッサンドラだが、比類のない品質に対する両親のこだわりを持ち続けることに心を砕いている。チェレリーニが初めてカバンを作った時の作業手順の多くは、今も変わっていない。革は全て同社の経験豊かな職人が手でカットし、続くトリミングも手作業で丁寧に行う。その後の縫製過程では、製造技術の進歩の助けを借りている。また、チェレリーニでは半世紀以上も前と同じレベルのパーソナライゼーション・サービスを今も提供している。仔牛革、裏地、糸、金具は幅広い選択肢があり、自分だけのイタリア革の傑作を誂えてもらえる。同じく家族経営のアトリエで「イタリア最高」を自称するのは、サントーニだ。アンドレア・サントーニが1975年に創業して以来、ミラノ製手作り靴の傑作をいくつ

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も生み出して来た。創業から数十年を経て現在二代目が舵を取るサントーニは、イタリア生まれの靴メーカーとしては国内有数の規模に成長したが、「品質」、「ディテールへのこだわり」、「もっぱら手作業」という基本的な価値観は変わらず持ち続けている。ブランドの二大柱である「革新」と「伝統」は、仕事の基礎として今も揺るぎない。近年はブローグでもチェルシーブーツでも、一足一足の靴のフィット感を極めるために、伝統に根差した職人の技と先駆的な生産技術とを組み合わせている。どのスタイルでもデザインが粋で、しかも履き心地が良く実用的で耐久性の高いものを作るために、最も珍重される皮や生地の調達にも余念がない。そうした努力がありありと見てとれるのが、同ブランドの最新限定コレクションだ。デザインも材料も、アンドレア・サントーニが自ら吟味している。厳選された革のカットから最後にサントーニのマークの焼印を入れる

65 までの全ての工程を手で行い、一足を作るのに時間の制限はない。革の着色過程一つでも15回以上色を重ねなければならないものがあり、それを思えば、サントーニの生産には依然として職人の技が最も重要なことがわかる。ところで、裕福な男性のお気に入りは何も新品のイタリア製品だけではない。ヴィンテージや修復されたアンティークの革製品も、美しいイタリアンレザーに投資したい人の間で人気が高まっている。ミラノのベルナルディーニは、手間暇かけて修復された珍しいアンティーク物が一杯だ。この店はオーナーのマックス・ベルナルディーニが1996 年に開店した。父親がイタリアの大富豪向けの高級アンティーク輸入に携わっていたことがきっかけだ。バーテンダーが常駐する感じのいい店内には、プラダやグッチといったブランド製のヴィンテージのトランクやスーツケース、バニティケースなど、巧みに入手した珍品を折衷したコレクションが展示されている。その多くは、20 世紀はじめのアフリカ探検時代初期にヨーロッパの富裕な探検家用に作られたものだ。品揃えの多様さと価値の高さは、イタリアの高級革製品作りの長い歴史をまざまざと証明している。現代の男性にとって、イタリア革製洋品は長持ちするスタイルへの投資であるだけでなく、職人技を駆使したもの作りと、昔から真の着こなし上手の特徴であり、本当の贅沢に対するイタリア人のこだわりの印でもある個々人に合わせたパーソナライゼーションの豊かな伝統について、興味深い洞察を与えてくれるものでもあるのは確かだ。

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52: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間 2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。

1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。 2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154 .94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（ VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場合があります。

66 | P RO D U C T S

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A reviving and regenerating scent, it is designed to transport you to the sunny coastal town where it is made. Mario Limoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eponymous founder started the company in 1970 in the picturesque resort, where it is still run today by his sons Gino and Maurizio. hl Mario Limone Assaje eau de parfum, â&#x201A;Ź60, Profumeria Limone, Corso Italia 212B-C, 80067 Sorrento, +39 081 807 3001, mariolimone.it for map go to page 47

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