If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name
purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
pieces of jewellery uphold internatio-
expertise in the art of making jewellery
nal standards and are born in our own
and timepieces. We offer a unique
atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-
selection of valuable treasures at 29
a-kind items as well as for our diverse
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
assortment of classic pieces with
especially proud because for more than
brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-
a century we have been privileged to
old friendship links us with the world’s
contribute to the grand feelings that
foremost watch manufactories. You will
our customers express when they
find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest
We accept all credit cards.
locations in great European metropolises,
to discover an abundance of interesting
New York City and in Beijing. Each shop
new items and exclusive special models at
also offers service or advice whenever you
one of Europe’s leading jewellers. Please
require it, so you can be certain that we
have a look at our website to find the
will always be available to meet your
complete range of watch brands we carry.
individual needs. We cordially invite you
We look forward to your visit!
Paris 16, rue Royale T +33.1.42 60 21 77 paris@wempe.fr Hamburg London Paris New York Beijing wempe.com
8
Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus
Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا ILLUSTRATION: PAUL X JOHNSON
德国指南
Welcome to Paris This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Paris has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at fashion’s exotic infuences for this season (see our feature on page 46), discover beautiful French homeware (page 54) and introduce the new creative directors at two of the most prestigious Paris fashion houses (turn to page 60). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 43. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.
Emma Cheevers
Руководство Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
/globalblue
/globalblue
/globalblue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
BOUTIQUES PARIS Champs-Elysées Opéra Saint-Germain-des-Prés Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche boutique.tagheuer.com
10
Contributors
ILLUSTRATION: RAYMOND BROWN
ILLUSTRATION: PATRIck LegeR
Patrick Leger Patrick Leger created the cover for the spring/summer 2014 Paris Luxury edition of SHOP, inspired by our feature on fashion’s international favour this season (page 46). His larger-than-life compositions make him the perfect choice for this edition – his illustration shows Paris fashion literally on top of the world’s style. Patrick is based in Brooklyn, New York, and has created artwork for clients around the world, including Esquire, the New York Times and Random House. Read more about our cover illustration at globalblue.com/covers
Clare Coulson Clare Coulson is the former fashion editor of the Daily Telegraph and former fashion director of Harper’s Bazaar, for which she is currently contributing editor. She also writes for publications from Net-A-Porter to InStyle. globalblue.com
Harriet Quick Harriet Quick reports on the new creative directors at Louis Vuitton and Schiaparelli for this edition of SHOP. She has held senior roles at the Guardian and British Vogue, where she was fashion features director for over a decade.
Dorcas Brown Photography graduate Dorcas Brown is SHOP’s picture editor. She previously worked on books and events centred around fashion, design and flm, and has dabbled in web design. Her vices include overly cute accessories.
12
Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Patrick Leger Contributors Clare Coulson, Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew
Online editor Kirsty Welsh
Digital manager Eamonn Leacy
Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound
Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo
Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh
Product manager Luca Russo
Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener
Project manager Omar Haque
Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok
International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com GLOBA L BLU E F R A NCE
Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova
Country manager Eric Noyal
Picture editor Dorcas Brown
Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko
Marketing sales manager Lucie Delahaye
Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts
Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank
Marketing coordinators Juliette Pavageau, Patrice Simeon
Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya
Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Artworker Adam Dhaliwal
Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto
Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau
Global Blue France, 18 rue de Calais, 75009 Paris, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151
The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, non-governmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber-based products from certifed forests.
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2013 Global Blue
BOUTIQUES
PARIS
10, Place Vendôme • 271, rue Saint-Honoré Galeries Lafayette – 40, Bd Haussmann Le Bon Marché – 24, rue de Sèvres
14
Contents
PHOTO: © COndé nasT arCHive/COrBis
p.60
P rOD u C t s 18 Check Out sHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season 20 My Favourites Designer Christine Phung and David Frossard and Philippe Di Méo, the founders of the Liquides perfume bar, reveal their top tips for spring/ summer 2014 24 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 32 Street Style Our pick of the best dressed at Paris Fashion Week n eWs 34 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris 36 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 44 In Store ...with Vanessa Bonnefoux in the much-loved Merci concept store on boulevard Beaumarchais
F e at u r e s 46 Cover Story: Out Of Africa Fashion takes a trip to far-fung lands this season. Clare Coulson maps the journey 54 Top Table From perfect porcelain to glamorous glassware, Paris’s artisans ofer beautifully crafted pieces for the table, says stephen Doig 60 All Change two of Paris’s most prestigious houses welcome new creative directors this season. Harriet Quick makes the introductions e x Pe r i e nCe 64 Raising The Bar Paris’s cocktail bars emulate speakeasy style with hidden entrances, creative concoctions and expert bartenders, writes Verity Hogan 68 Stay In Style sHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
Above: 1937 study of italian fashion designer elsa schiaparelli, refected in a mirror, wearing one of her own ensembles
The spirit of travel. Download the Louis Vuitton pass app to reveal exclusive content.
16
Contents
Gu i de 75 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights
t r a n S l at i O n S 95 Русский Перевод 99 美文翻译 101 日本語翻訳
eSSenti a lS 90 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping
POStCa r d 106 SHOP writes home about lanvin
DesTinaTion & buYing guiDes
e nGl i SH | Р ус с к и й | 中 文
don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.
the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com Fashion WeeKs & sTReeT sTYLe Follow us online for the latest from europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show round-ups and insider shopping guides.
We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotel stays.
globalblue.com
DaiLY shopping neWs We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © MELANIE GALEA/
Win monThLY compeTiTions
18 | P RO D U C T S
Check Out
TRAVEL IN STYLE The stunning Limousine range by Moynat was launched at the beginning of the 20th century, when the frst Limousine trunks were designed with a special concave base to ft onto the roof of a car. A century later, the range is still made entirely by hand, produced by master craftsmen in Limoges. The work is so intricate that only one is created every month, each made to order to the specifc requests of the customer. Constructed in canvas, wood, brass Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
and sumptuous leather, every trunk is adapted to its owner, and each has its own special key. While every item is custom-built, each has the same exceptional quality in common, with many hours of craftsmanship and care going into the production of each one. Order in the Paris store and Moynat will deliver your trunk to you wherever you are in the world. hl Moynat Limousine cases, from â‚Ź6,000, Moynat, 348 rue Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 8390, moynat.com * for map go to page 83
PARIS 275 RUE SAINT HONORE
+33 1 42611770
2 AVENUE MONTAIGNE
+33 1 42898345
PALAIS DES CONGRES ESCADA.COM
+33 1 40682130
20 | P RO D U C T S
OUR FavOURites: David Frossard and Philippe Di Méo Liquides is the perfume concept bar created by David Frossard of independent perfume label Diférentes Latitudes and designer Philippe Di Méo. Located in the Marais, this unusual store is a perfect match for the neighbourhood and it has quickly become the number one destination for fragrance connoisseurs since it opened last spring. Liquides carries a carefully curated selection of rare perfumers from major perfume houses including Odin and Byredo, all beautifully showcased on gold shelves. Frossard and Di Méo give Dominique Fenn their Paris recommendations
PHOTO: MICHAEL ADELO
1
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
S H O P | 21
1. ‘If you buy one thing in Paris, we recommend a lemon tart by Sébastien Gaudard’
4
Sébastien Gaudard, 22 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7118 2470, sebastiengaudard.fr
2. ‘René Talmon l’Armée is a great jeweller’ René Talmon l’Armée, 3 rue Cunin Gridaine, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4887 1712, renetalmonlarmee.com
2
5
3
3. ‘Our signature fragrance is from the Liquides Imaginaires collection: Sancti Eau Bénite’ Sancti Eau Bénite, €160 for 100ml, Liquides, 9 rue de Normandie, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)9 6694 7706, liquidesimaginaires.com
globalblue.com
4. ‘We admire Maison Martin Margiela for its overall universe’
5. ‘Acne is our favourite store in Paris – apart from Liquides, of course’
Maison Martin Margiela boots, price on request, Maison Martin Margiela, 23 rue de Montpensier, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4015 0644, maisonmartinmargiela.com
Acne, 3 rue Froissart, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4996 9691, acnestudios.com
22 | P RO D U C T S
My Favourites: Christine Phung Christine Phung is an award-winning young fashion designer who lives and works in Paris. Already known for creating beautiful and delicate prints, Phung is a name on the rise. She studied fashion design at the École Duperré and the Institut Français de la Mode and began working with companies including Vanessa Bruno, Christophe Lemaire, Chloé and Veja before setting up her eponymous label. She is passionate about travelling and has a line of fair-trade Cambodian silk clothing. She shares her knowledge of Paris with Ximena Daneri christinephung.com
1. ‘I recommend a visit to Ladurée to try the caramel macaroons’
1
Ladurée, 75 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4075 0875, laduree.com
2. ‘Pierre Hardy is my favourite brand for shoes’
3. ‘My favourite item from my spring/summer collection is my white and blue coat with patchworks of silk and light wool – the frst look from the spring/summer 2014 fashion show’ Christine Phung jacket, €1,400, Montaigne Market, 57 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4256 5858, christinephung.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
photoS: (top LEFt) © paScaL Montary; FrEdEric trEntESEaux
Pierre Hardy shoes, €840, Pierre Hardy, 9-11 place du Palais Bourbon, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4555 0067, pierrehardy.com
S H O P | 23
2
4
3
5
4. ‘My signature fragrance is Philosykos from Diptyque’ Philosykos perfume, €65 for 50ml, Diptyque, 34 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005 Paris, +33 (0)1 4326 7744, diptyqueparis.fr
5. ‘I always carry my Moleskine sketchbook and a pencil in my handbag’ Moleskine sketchbook, €13, Moleskine, 5 rue Saint-Merri, 75004 Paris, moleskine.com
globalblue.com
24 | P RO D U C T S
RED SKY
3
For those with summer travels in mind, red is a smart choice. On trend and easy to spot, it’s everywhere from beach shorts to suitcases this season
1
4
1. Bally loafers, price on request, Bally, 60 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 5898, bally.com
3. Frescobol Carioca swimming trunks, €165, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, frescobolcarioca.com
2. Sandqvist Hans backpack, €169, Royal Cheese, 22 rue Tiquetonne, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4221 3065, sandqvist.net
4. Triwa Stirling Lansen watch, €175, Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, triwa.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
5
5. Victorinox Spectra 26 luggage, €395, Victorinox, 2 boulevard Raspail, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4544 5264, victorinox.com
PHOTOS: (1) STeFaNO SaccaNi; (5) SPeckHard PHOTOgraPHy
2
S H O P | 25
6
PHOTO: (8) © FabriziO MarcO NaNNiNi
7
6. Burberry Anorak jacket, €1,595, Burberry, 161-163 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 7076 1500, burberry.com
globalblue.com
8
7. Ermenegildo Zegna bracelets, €190 each, Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com
8. Church’s wallets, from €75, Church’s, 229 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3460, church-footwear.com
26 | P RO D U C T S
INDULGE IN IRIDESCENCE More is more with Acne’s statement blouse. Let it inspire you to be bold with your accessories too
1
4
5
1. Acne Rogue Paillette top, €500, Acne, 1 quai Voltaire, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 5188, acnestudios.com 2. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €795, Salvatore Ferragamo, 45 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 3637, ferragamo.com
3
3. Jimmy Choo bag, price on request, Jimmy Choo, 34 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 0339, jimmychoo.com 4. De Grisogono Black Bell ring, €5,000, De Grisogono, 358 rue St Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4455 0440, degrisogono.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
5. Damiani butterfy earrings, €16,190, Damiani, 2 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4296 9551, damiani.com
PHOTO: (3) © Ivan LaTTuada
2
28 | P RO D U C T S
CANDY CRUSH Pastels are the story of the season. Combine soft, sweetly hued shades to welcome the summer
1
3
1. Bulgari handbag, €4,200, Bulgari, 40 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 9999, bulgari.com
3. Cos dress, €79, Cos, 3 rue de Grenelle, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4048 2850, cosstores.com
2. Rosantica Orchidea & Carioca necklace, €505, L’Eclaireur, 40 rue de Sévigné, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4887 1022, rosantica.com
4. Miu Miu shoes, €490, Miu Miu, 219 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
4
PHOTOS: (1) MaurO FabbiO STudiO FOTOgraFicO; (3) PackSHOTFacTOry
2
30 | P RO D U C T S
THE NEW NEUTRALS
2
Take monochrome to the next level with interesting print, texture and embellishment
1
3
4
1. Escada dress, €920, Escada, 2 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4289 8345, escada.com 2. Massimo Dutti hat, €135, Massimo Dutti, 18-20 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5376 8850, massimodutti.com
3. Louis Vuitton necklace, €4,500, Louis Vuitton, 101 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 5200, louisvuitton.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
4. Blumarine shoes, price on request, Blumarine, 56 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 3322, blumarine.com
32 | P RO D U C T S
VO U RI
T
F
A
E
SHOP
Street Style
PHOTOS: EMANUELE D’ANGELO/LC-JOURNAL.COM
Accessorising is an art form for Paris Fashion Week attendees and this season bags were in the limelight. From intricately embellished Dolce & Gabbana handbags to a classic YSL clutch, we pick the best looks
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
S H O P | 33
globalblue.com
34 | N E W S
Shop Window
AT HOME WITH ALAÏA Azzedine Alaïa doesn’t play the fashion game. A private man, the Tunisian designer is known for eschewing fashion weeks, seasonal trends and the pressure to design a collection when the rest of the fashion industry says ‘Go!’ Alaïa is a true master of his craft and his ambition is to create timeless clothes that make women beautiful. He defned the aesthetic of Paris in the 1990s with his sculpting, body-con dresses, and now, two decades later, he has opened his frst boutique in as many years. True to the designer’s own character, the store has a discreet location and a minimalist feel. Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 90
It is dedicated to ready-to-wear and accessories and spans four foors in an 18th-century mansion, chosen by Alaïa because it has no typical shop windows. There is, however, a garden with beautiful marble tables by Angelo Mangiarotti. Inside the boutique, the clothing sits comfortably amongst other design greats – Charlotte Perriand tables, rails by Martin Szekely and lamps from Marc Newson. A stunning, one-of-a-kind sculpture, created by Alaïa’s friend, artist Kris Ruhs, is made out of brushed aluminium fowers. This boutique is a must-see for visitors to Paris. df Azzedine Alaïa, 5 rue de Marignan, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7672 9111, alaïa.fr * for map go to page 81
S H O P | 35
36 | N E W S
MADE WITH LOVE There’s something so charming about the origins of family company Loriblu that it makes the brand’s beautiful accessories even more appealing. Founded in the 1970s by Graziano Cuccù, Loriblu had its humble beginnings in the designer’s basement, where he improvised a leather beater from a broken washing machine, working alongside his mother and brother. Today Loriblu is known worldwide for stunning, ultra-feminine designs – in particular, its sparkling, bejewelled sandals. Cuccù still runs Loriblu and his standout,
showstopping pieces continue to impress, time after time. You can almost feel the love that goes into every shoe. hl Loriblu, 84 rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 7343, loriblu.com * for map go to page 83
SMYTHSON’S NEW SPACES
EASTERN PROMISE Inspired by Chinese heritage and Asian contemporary art, Shang Xia is a collaboration between designer Jiang Qiong Er and Hermès. This exquisite and refned collection of furniture, homeware, accessories and clothing focuses on a balance between
tradition and modernity. The company recently opened its frst store in Paris, Shang Xia’s frst store outside China. Found on the rue de Sèvres, it ofers a luxurious and rarefed perspective on contemporary living. irs Shang Xia, 8 rue de Sèvres, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4222 5362, shang-xia.com * for map go to page 86
Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 90
British luxury leather specialist and stationer extraordinaire Smythson has recently joined Galeries Lafayette in Paris with two new retail spaces. On the ground foor you’ll fnd Smythson’s best-selling small leather goods and stationery for men, while on the frst foor the brand’s colourful women’s accessories are available. Discover a wide variety of handbags and jewellery boxes alongside accessories for travellers, including diaries and technology cases. mn Galeries Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4282 3456, smythson.com
38 | N E W S
PERFECTLY PACKAGED Sometimes the packaging of a luxury brand can evoke almost the same excitement as the product itself, particularly when the boxes are as sleek as those from French fashion house Givenchy. Creative director Riccardo Tisci recently collaborated with architect Joseph Dirand to create a new fagship inspired by the boxes originally used by the brand’s founder Hubert de Givenchy, which are still used to deliver the haute couture collection to clients today. Each room in the new store on avenue Montaigne refects the box design, with felt walls and solid oak foors, gold mirroring and polished steel. There are two foors entirely devoted to womenswear, connected by a round marble staircase. Spring/summer 2014 sees Tisci move away from his instantly identifable graphic prints to use draping in a multitude of ways, with many of the fnal looks covered in embroidery and light-catching sequins. What better to wrap up in a box and take home? df Givenchy, 36 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4443 9990, givenchy.com * for map go to page 81
PHOTO: JC VINCENT
PIAGET’S MYTHICAL JOURNEY
Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 90
Inspired by some of the most famous journeys in history, such as those that followed the silk and spice routes, Piaget’s new Mythical Journey collection is as exotic as it is enchanting. The line, which draws extensively on Piaget’s decades of watchmaking expertise, allows the wearer to travel back in time to the days of the frst trade routes, from Asia to India. Made up of 32 timepieces, the Mythical Journey range embraces the mystery and romance surrounding the silk and spice routes and is bound to become a collector’s item. irs Piaget, 16 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3280, piaget.com * for map go to page 85
14 octobre 2013, Paris Clément Chabernaud photographié par Jamie Hawkesworth Boutique en ligne : defursac.fr
112, rue de Richelieu - Paris IIè
34, avenue de l’Opéra - Paris IIè
146, boulevard Saint Germain - Paris VIè
Galeries Lafayette Haussmann - Paris IXè
95, avenue Victor Hugo - Paris XVIè
Printemps Haussmann - Paris IXè
40 | N E W S
FENDI’S NEW FLAGSHIP Fendi’s fagship Parisian store is now open on avenue Montaigne. The two-storey, 600-square-metre space is divided into opulent rooms furnished in bronze, marble, velvet and leather. Specially commissioned installations and sculptures create a breathtaking interior. Fendi’s iconic Baguette bags are displayed on 30,000 wall-mounted glossy bronze rods, while the central staircase spirals around a magnifcent, multi-coloured glass funnel. The boutique stocks the full spring/summer women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections. Fendi master artisans in the MadeTo-Order salon can personalise the famous Peekaboo and Selleria handbags, while the Haute Fourrure salon provides clients with an opportunity to indulge in unique furs and accessories. A trip to this boutique is essential for any Fendi fan. gl Fendi, 51 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 8452, fendi.com * for map go to page 81
PHOTO: STEPHANE MURATET
SUPREME ELEGANCE
Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 90
Cartier’s new two-storey Parisian fagship, the jeweller’s ninth boutique in the city, is aptly situated in the historic ninth arrondissement. Cartier was established in Paris in 1847 and is favoured by royalty around the world; the new boutique is situated at the top of boulevard des Capucines, close to the Opéra de Paris. Architect and designer Bruno Moinard has enhanced the historic features of the listed Haussmann building, preserving the original columns and incorporating gilded bronze guilloche railings, Italian Portoro marble and a stucco dome to create a supremely elegant experience for clients. The store ofers a vast array of Cartier goods, including jewellery, timepieces, eyewear, fragrance, leather goods and vintage and bridal ranges. gl Cartier, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 4601, cartier.com * for map go to page 85
The world’s greatest designer boutiques. All in one place. With a minimum of 33% off* and tax-free shopping. ARMANI DIANE VON FURSTENBERG JIMMY CHOO LONGCHAMP PAUL & JOE PAUL SMITH SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SANDRO SONIA RYKIEL TOD’S UGG AND MANY MORE Receive 50% off your Shopping Express® return ticket from Paris by booking online with the code: LVVSHOPLUX
LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.
La ValleeVillage.com LONDON
DUBLIN
PARIS
MADRID
BARCELONA
MILAN
BRUSSELS
FRANKFURT
MUNICH
SUZHOU, CHINA
La Vallée Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages © La Vallée Village 2014 *the recommended retail price
N E W S | 43
VIKTOR & ROLF’S NEW VISION
PUCCI’S PARIS PALAZZO
Renowned for their surrealist, avant-garde shows and creations, Dutch designers Viktor & Rolf have expressed their latest brand vision via the creation of a fagship store. The huge concept space juxtaposes modernist, cylindrical facades with neo-classical archways and pillars that form galleries which frame the apparel like works of art. The interior is reminiscent of scenes from 1920s sci-f movie Metropolis; all surfaces are completely covered in grey felt, an unusual, monochromatic colour scheme that works perfectly. The store houses womens and menswear, shoes, handbags, leather goods and fragrance. Haute couture is available, VIP service goes without saying and there will be special-edition products exclusive to the store. gl Viktor & Rolf, 370 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7377 5155, viktor-rolf.com * for map go to page 83
Florentine fashion house Emilio Pucci has opened a two-storey boutique in the centre of Paris, joining a cluster of fellow Italian brands, including Salvatore Ferragamo and Fendi, on the prestigious avenue Montaigne. The store refects the brand’s striking palazzo concept, with glass façades that give passers-by ample opportunity to admire the impressive interior. Two 1940s Murano chandeliers emphasise the high ceiling and the marble foor in the entrance hall, while furnishings in brass, soft grey and purple velvet create a feeling of warmth. While away an afternoon exploring the diferent areas, which include a shoe salon, a private ftting lounge and a silk bar dedicated to Pucci’s renowned scarves. gl Emilio Pucci, 46-48 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 0445, emiliopucci.com * for map go to page 81
SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offine use. If you’re looking for something specifc, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com
PHOTO: PIETRO SAVORELLI
Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store
Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 90
44 | N E W S
In Store: Merci Merci, a concept boutique in the Marais district, is much loved by locals and visitors alike. Ximena Daneri got to know the team and spoke to women’s buyer Vanessa Bonnefoux about working for one of the best stores in Paris
Entering Merci, which is housed in a former wallpaper factory, feels like entering someone’s home. Inside you’ll fnd a forist, a tearoom and a book store, as well as a wide selection of men’s and women’s fashion, home furnishings and jewellery. Over the years, the store has collaborated with many well-known designers to produce limited-edition collections, with the profts going to charity. ‘Merci has been open for roughly fve years now,’ says women’s buyer Vanessa Bonnefoux. ‘We opened on 5 March 2009. I still remember, the day before we opened, we all slept in the Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 90
store to get things ready for the opening. Bernard and Marie-France Cohen, who co-founded the store, also owned the luxury children’s brand Bonpoint at the time. ‘We sell an eclectic mix of design, fashion and lifestyle items, all chosen in line with the Merci aesthetic. The times have changed but we keep to the same rules: fnd the best products in each category, tell the truth and give the best to our customers.’ Merci, 111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4277 0033, merci-merci.com
S H O P | 45
Above: from lef to right, women’s buyers Elysa Masliah, Vanessa Bonnefoux and Aya Iwata; men’s department director Marcel Lassance
| 47 SH S HO OP P|
OUT OF AFRICA Fashion takes a trip to far-fung lands this season. Clare Coulson maps the journey
95 / 101
99
The frst sign that fashion was about to take a trip to the wide blue horizon came long before the spring/summer 2014 shows; the exact moment came mid-way through Raf Simons’s autumn couture show for Christian Dior. The Belgian designer broke with his New Look silhouettes and elegant Parisian day dresses to throw some highly intricate rifs on tribal costumes – a shiny sheath in orange, cobalt blue, red and black was worn with a wide tribal collar, while sheer tulle dresses in an intricate mix of checks and stripes echoed the traditional cloth worn by the Masai people of Africa. It didn’t take long for the mood to take hold; Stella Tennant accompanied Simons to the Guggenheim’s International Gala last autumn draped in a patchwork of silks and prints with an African favour. But before that the spring/summer collections were awash with sub-Saharan references; rich earthy colours, bold prints that seemed to reference the vibrant costumes of East Africa, Opposite: Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2014
48 | F E AT U R E S
For many designers, the African influence is interwoven with a nod towards modernist art of the early 20th century
as well as drapery that clearly owed a debt to the neat folds and pleats of ethnic costumes. Quite how and why fashion moves to the same beat of the (tribal) drum bemuses editors and critics each and every season. But when infuential and maverick designers including Raf Simons, Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Phoebe Philo at Céline all take a trip at the same time, the force of the message is bound to reverberate across fashion at all levels. It was clear that all these designers had drawn on centuries-old ethnic costumes, even if none of them overtly acknowledged the reference. For Phoebe Philo it was ‘about a lot of power. Strength.’ She combined printed tops with an African feel with wrapped, pleated long skirts. Elsewhere she used vibrant prints in wide brush strokes for draped and layered looks and frayed printed scarves tied high up the neck. Riccardo Tisci may have credited Madame Grès, the couturier famous for her exquisitely draped jersey and silk gowns, as the inspiration behind his spring/summer collection for Above (both images): Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2014
Givenchy, but the show buzzed with African infuence, from the ‘warrior masks’ painstakingly applied in crystal by Pat McGrath to the draped jersey dresses in an earthy palette of deep khaki, tobacco, terracotta and burnt orange and the perforated leather shawls. ‘The collection is a clash between two cultures, Japanese and African,’ explained Tisci. ‘I’ve been working with Madame Grès pleats and drapes and colours that remind me of Africa in a romantic way – but mixed with Japanese elegance and fragility.’ It may be an odd mix, but Tisci pulled of his culture clash with fuid dresses topped with leather harness straps. He even eschewed his usual sky-scraper Above (both images): Givenchy spring/summer 2014
heels in favour of fat, chunky strapped sandals. For many designers, the African infuence is interwoven with a nod towards modernist art of the early 20th century – an era in which African culture was inspiring artists and designers such as Picasso and Mondrian. ‘I didn’t want it to feel too referenced to a period or a theme,’ said Sarah Burton after her electrifying show for McQueen – but her themes, deftly interwoven, were clear: tribal costumes, graphic modernist art and, as always, plenty of knowing nods to the house heritage. Burton sculpted tribal breastplates from crocodile skin, built skirts in intricate cut-work geometrics and created amazing dresses with layers of vibrant feathers.
PHOTOS: DALIM
50 | F E AT U R E S
52 | F E AT U R E S
This season’s adventure-inspired collections are the stuff of fashion dreams – and creative wanderlust come to life
If many of the season’s African infuences were a very modern mash-up then Moncler’s trip to the continent felt far more light and literal – leopard, girafe, snake and leopard topped or trimmed with exotic feathers and contrasted with khaki separates and safari jackets. Alexander McQueen once suggested that his frst port of call when it came to inspiration was the National Geographic and his incredible archive of collections rooted in myriad continents and cultures is a rich illustration of that. For spring, that spirit lives on, embraced by a new wave of forward-thinking designers. But the culture clash never looked more wearable and real than when it was interpreted by fashion’s romantics. The pompom-trimmed tapestry-inspired tops at Dries Van Noten were reminiscent of North African Berber rugs. The exquisitely beautiful embroidered capes, coats and dresses that opened the stunning Valentino show had the same air of North African adventure. It’s the stuf of fashion dreams – and creative wanderlust come to life Above (both images): Moncler Gamme Rouge spring/summer 2014
54 | F E AT U R E S
TOP TABLE From perfect porcelain to glamorous glassware, Paris’s artisans ofer beautifully crafted pieces for the table, says Stephen Doig
96 / 103
100
Above: Mariage Frères hand-blown glass teapot
S H O P | 55
P
aris is the home of exquisite craftsmanship; for proof, one need only peruse the jewellery stores of the opulent place Vendôme or the elegant fashion emporiums of the rue de Rivoli. But pieces for the home are also fne examples of the French ability to apply taste and elegance to every facet of life, from what you drink from to how you pour it. Paris is home to a wealth of historical labels that turn the most mundane of activities – pouring a cup of tea – into a masterclass in chic. A cup of tea is a simple pleasure, but at Mariage Frères it becomes a delightful
sensory experience. More than a simple tea emporium, Mariage Frères is an historical Paris institution devoted to tea-making and the crafting of beautiful teapots and cups; there’s even a whole online community based around sourcing Mariage Frères vintage designs for enthusiasts, which has become something of a luxury cult. Why? Aside from the level of craft that goes into the teapots – there are examples in wavy glass, in sunniest tangerine porcelain, in bright aqua – the label has a peerless history. The Mariage family has been trading tea since around 1660, when Nicolas Mariage
56 | F E AT U R E S
made several voyages to the east. In the 1700s, Jean-François Mariage of Lille continued trading tea, spices and other imports, in turn training his sons in the business. The Mariage Frères tea company was founded in 1854. Experimentation has always an integral part of the Mariage Frères philosophy, which applies the principles of gastronomy to tea tasting. This was the frst brand to make tea-favoured chocolate, tea jelly and tea candles. Today, alongside the tea emporium itself and the Mariage Frères tea salons, the label also produces glazed porcelain and glass teaware. The range is as diverse as the selection of tea ofered by Mariage Frères and includes oriental-inspired matcha tea bowls in platinumenamelled porcelain, ornate hand-blown glass Above (from top): Mariage Frères tea shop; Mariage Frères brightly coloured cast iron teapot
.
58 | F E AT U R E S
teapots, shocking pink cast iron teapots and pots that evoke Fabergé-style grandeur in lavish gold enamel. In some centres of design, modernity and the cutting edge act as hallmarks of excellence, but in Paris, history remains integral. At the other end of the spectrum from tea-time, when it’s the hour for a glass of something stronger, Parisian designers also have it covered. It was in 1886 that René Lalique, a jewellery designer and glass expert, founded his own business focusing on expertly crafted crystal. Lalique was a leading fgure in the art nouveau movement in Paris and investing in a piece of Lalique crystal for the dinner table is to buy a link with artistic history. Lalique’s experiments with glass-blowing techniques led to the creation of a unique signature aesthetic, seen in smoky glass decanter stoppers, in spiralling tendrils, in the shapes of horses’ heads, animal-based and natural motifs (key elements of the art nouveau aesthetic), all incorporated into glassware or designed as standalone ornaments. The house also created the famous Flying B mascot found on vintage Bentley cars. The artisanal spirit of Paris is just as prominent in the wide array of items that Lalique produces, from glassware to ornamental pieces and jewellery. But it’s the crystal tableware pieces that perhaps remain the heart of the brand, from elegant, traditional stemmed futes to vivid crimson bowls and
From tea-time to cocktail hour, Paris’s leading artisans cater to every occasion
vases decorated with foliage motifs. Today Lalique is owned by the charismatic Silvio Denz, wine connoisseur and international entrepreneur, who has made it his remit to uphold the craftsmanship of Lalique while pushing its design boundaries. ‘It was a natural progression from collector to owner, I guess,’ he told Bentley magazine. ‘I loved what René Lalique created and my plan is to use that inspiration, how he created not just objects but whole interiors, in a modern and innovative way. We want to build Lalique into a global lifestyle brand.’ From civilised, beautifully decked tea tables to after-dark glamour over cocktails, Paris’s leading artisans cater to every occasion mariagefreres.com, lalique.com
Above (from lef): Lalique equestrian collection; Lalique Flying B mascot for Bentley
PHOTO: © COndé naST arCHIvE/COrBIS
60 | F E AT U R E S
98 / 103
101
Above: 1937 study of Italian fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, refected in a mirror, wearing one of her own ensembles
S H O P | 61
ALL CHANGE Two of Paris’s most prestigious houses welcome new creative directors this season. Harriet Quick makes the introductions
There’s nothing that excites the fashion world more than the appointment of a new creative director at a major house. Expectations run high and excitement rises to fever pitch as design lovers, retailers and press alike anticipate what is to come. Two notable and very diverse recent announcements promise great collections ahead and a buzzing spring season in the French capital. First came the news that quietly-spoken Italian Marco Zanini, the creative director who spearheaded the resurrection of Rochas, would be taking the helm at Schiaparelli and second, it was announced that fashion’s favourite avantgarde designer, Nicolas Ghesquière, would assume the creative direction of Louis Vuitton, following the departure of Marc Jacobs. Zanini and Ghesquière have wildly diferent aesthetics but they share a love of rigorous design and a desire to move forward the boundaries of beauty and taste. globalblue.com
The house of Schiaparelli, founded by Elsa Schiaparelli, which had lain dormant for decades, was purchased by Diego Della Valle’s Tod’s Group in the early noughties. Zanini will have a vivid history and impressive archive to immerse himself within. The Italian-born, Paris-dwelling designer Elsa Schiaparelli was one of the most infuential couturiers of the early 20th century and forged unique collaborative links with the era’s surrealist artists, including Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau and Alberto Giacometti. The highly educated Schiaparelli – known as Schiap – began her career by making her own outfts. Then came a small collection of knitwear. She soon became known for witty embellishments, sometimes created by master embroiderer François Lesage, on tailored suits, and surreal trompe l’oeil efects such as her lobster dress (1937), painted by Dalí. Schiap’s arresting, provocative designs shocked the status quo.
PHOTO: CHriSTOPHE rOué
62 | F E AT U R E S
PHOTO: PaTriCia SCHwOErEr
Ghesquière and Zanini will no doubt achieve new heights in their new positions; fashion is about the power of re-invention
Her perfume, encased in fuchsia pink, was named Shocking. Zanini’s appointment is timely. Schiaparelli’s work has garnered a new generation of fans following the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2012 exhibition Impossible Conversations, created in collaboration with Miuccia Prada, an ardent admirer of Schiap’s work. During his tenure at Rochas, Zanini similarly inspired emotion and challenged taste with his love of ofbeat colourways and extraordinary fabrics. As an Italian, he humbly says that he has ‘a special afnity for the house.’ For Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, the task is to take the powerhouse brand, founded as a trunk-maker in Paris in the late 19th century, to new levels. Marc Jacobs injected the house with wit, elegance and style and created ready-to-wear collections for the frst time. The Paris Louis Vuitton shows, grand and imaginatively theatrical (carousels, escalators, train stations all featured in the immaculately conceived sets) became the toast of fashion week, while the accessories featuring the house’s Damier check canvas
Above (clockwise from top lef): Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dali, 1949; Marco Zanini, newly appointed creative director at Schiaparelli; Elsa Schiaparelli Shocking perfume
S H O P | 63
became status symbols across the globe. Louis Vuitton shops have opened up in the furthest reaches of the world, including Ulan Bator, capital of Mongolia. Travel is in the DNA of Louis Vuitton and that can be interpreted both imaginatively and literally. Ghesquière, a designer who brilliantly resurrected the house of Balenciaga, will no doubt work his magic on Louis Vuitton, reenergising its allure for the future. Fashion, after all, is about the power of re-invention schiaparelli.com, louisvuitton.com Above (clockwise from top lef): Louis Vuiton spring/summer 2014 catwalk presentation; Nicolas Ghesquière, newly appointed creative director at Louis Vuiton; Elsa Schiaparelli lobster dress painted by Salvador Dalí, 1937
64 | E X P E R I E N C E
Raising the BaR Paris’s clandestine cocktail bars emulate speakeasy style with hidden entrances, creative concoctions and expert bartenders. Verity Hogan ventures of the beaten track to uncover some of the city’s bestkept secrets
Hidden behind unmarked doors, in the back rooms of restaurants and tucked into corners of the city’s up-and-coming districts, Paris’s fnest cocktail bars share a clandestine air. recent openings take inspiration from the 1920s, when the city’s drinking dens were frequented by a lively group of literary luminaries and highsociety expats. after falling out of fashion during the 1950s, Paris’s cocktail scene is enjoying a surge in popularity and attracting some of the city’s most discerning drinkers. The venues most in demand are those that combine talented bartenders with an unusual mix of ingredients and individual décor that gives them an edge over the competition. The most successful have reinvented the speakeasy with style, breathing new life into this classic concept, and are well worth taking the time to seek out. globalblue.com
S H O P | 65
PHOTO: www.PHiliPPelevy.neT
Bar le Coq With an interior infused with 1970s glamour and a menu that retrieves forgotten French spirits from the archives, every aspect of Bar le Coq exudes retro-chic. The cocktail selection has a Parisian edge and favours French ingredients, while the soundtrack is an eclectic mix, ranging from afro funk and jazz to the sultry tones of Serge Gainsbourg and Grace Jones. Be sure to try the bar’s fresh take on a classic kir royale; taking inspiration from Paris’s famed pâtisserie, the cocktail combines Champagne with a home-made ambrette cordial that mimics the favour of a freshly baked butter croissant. Bar le Coq, 12 rue du Château d’eau, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 4240 8568, barlecoq.com
66 | E X P E R I E N C E
LittLe Red dooR
PHOTO: Š2011 david rager
With a laidback ambience and quirky dĂŠcor, Little Red door combines its speakeasy style with a remarkably inventive cocktail selection. Visitors who place their trust in the knowledgeable bar team are rewarded with a
concoction wholly tailored to their individual tastes. the bar is as unique as the drinks served. its vintage aesthetic is enhanced with exposed brickwork and antique glassware, while a miniature, purely decorative, red door provides a focal point. Little Red Door, 60 rue Charlot, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4271 1932, lrdparis.com
CandeLaRia at frst glance, Candelaria appears to be a typical Mexican taqueria, serving a menu of tacos, quesadillas and tostadas. Venture past the dining room, however, and you will soon discover the back-room bar hidden behind an unmarked door. this intimate globalblue.com
bar feels like a private hideaway with its cave-like proportions, roughly hewn walls and cushioned seating, all lit by candlelight. the cocktail menu has a bolder tone; taking inspiration from Central america, most mixes are based on tequila with added spice. Candelaria, 52 rue de saintonge, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)9 8072 9883, candelariaparis.com
S H O P | 67
L e M a Ry Ce L e st e Le Mary Celeste ofers a refreshing contrast to the dimly lit basement bars currently dominating the city’s cocktail scene. a bright, airy space in the heart of the Marais district, the bar features large windows and a strippedback interior where all activity revolves globalblue.com
around the vast central bar. the atmosphere is relaxed and informal while the drinks range is impressively vast, with Brooklyn lager available on tap. Be sure to explore the oyster selection; each variety is labelled by origin and has a distinctive taste, regardless of size. Le Mary Celeste, 1 rue Commines, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)9 8072 9883, lemaryceleste.com
68 | E X P E R I E N C E
Stay in Style The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
The Thief Art lovers will fnd much to engage their senses at the eclectic Thief hotel. Set in one of Oslo’s most creative districts, the hotel is close to the city’s fnest restaurants, bars and art galleries, while also ofering its own impressive collection of contemporary art. Curated by Sune Nordgren, this includes pieces from Norwegian globalblue.com
and international artists and can be admired throughout the hotel. Modern designer furnishings and pop art inspired décor add to the rooms’ appeal, while the on-site restaurant, Fru K, uses fresh Norwegian produce to impressive efect. The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo, +47 2400 4000, thethief.com
E X P E R I E N C E | 69
Hotel Vier JaHreSzeiten KempinSKi Built at the request of King Maximilian II, the prestigious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski has been welcoming guests since 1858. Its location on one of the world’s most globalblue.com
elegant boulevards has long attracted a highly distinguished clientele, including leading personalities from a number of felds. The hotel’s high standards of service are unrivalled, while the diferent dÊcor in each of its rooms gives the hotel unique charm. Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2125 2799, kempinski.com
70 | E X P E R I E N C E
Casa Fuster
PHOTO: Elan FlEisHEr/ElanHOTElPix.cOm
Located in one of Barcelona’s most soughtafter areas, Casa Fuster refects its prestigious setting with an opulent art deco façade and luxurious interior. Attention to detail is evident throughout; each of the hotel’s 105 rooms features a calming colour scheme with modernist style accents. The hotel’s public
areas are also worthy of note; its bar, Café Vienés, has long been frequented by artists and intellectuals and has now been restored to its former glory with distinctive columns, rich upholstery and a menu of high-quality cocktails. Casa Fuster, Passeig de Gràcia 132, 08008 Barcelona, +34 93 255 3000, hotelescenter.es/casafuster
Fleming’s Hotel municH-scHwabing Fleming’s Hotel is set in Munich’s lively artistic quarter – one of the most desirable districts in the city. The hotel’s ideal location is complemented by a minimalist, modern décor with rooms featuring cream and fresh green globalblue.com
walls and wenge headboards with embedded lights. Every room is also fully equipped with an array of amenities, including a fatscreen television and complimentary WLAN access. After a long day’s sightseeing take advantage of the hotel’s sauna and steam bath to unwind. Fleming’s Hotel Munich-Schwabing, Leopoldstrasse 130-132, 80804 Munich, +49 (0)89 206 0900, femings-hotels.com
An exclusive fragrance dedicated to the new Guerlain Boutique in Versailles. An experience within La Cour des Senteurs, the new luxury venue 100 meters away from the Palace.
72 | E X P E R I E N C E
The GorinG A quintessentially English establishment, The Goring has been welcoming international royalty, dignitaries and other luminaries for over 100 years. The hotel opened in 1910 and is one of London’s oldest family-run hotels, enjoying enduring popularity thanks to its Belgravia location and quietly elegant interior décor. Each globalblue.com
of its 69 bedrooms and suites features bespoke furnishings and luxurious fabrics designed by Nina Campbell, while extras include a complimentary daily newspaper. Don’t miss the hotel’s traditional afternoon tea – often described as the best in London. The Goring, Beeston Place, London SW1W 0JW, +44 (0)20 7396 9000, thegoring.com
Hackett London et Pierce Brosnan. Photographié par Terry O’Neill
HACKETT.COM/FR
37 BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES – 58 RUE DE RENNES
G U I D E | 75
Guide
ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES
Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Paris with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/paris or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.
globalblue.com
76 | G U I D E
AV E N
UE N
IEL
Paris
D E CO
U RCE
LLES
E AL .M BD
BOU
ARD LE V
UE EN AV
FO
H OC
S BE ER
.H AV
GARE SAINT-LAZARE
SH
PLACE DES TERNES
E
A ND E NUE DE FR I E DL CHARLES DE GAULLE - AV MIROMESNIL SAINT- AUGUSTIN ÉTOILE ARC DE TRIOMPHE Hyat Regency GEORGE V AV OPÉRA GARNIER EN U E UME Refund Point DE SAINT-PHILIPPE- DU-ROULE P.84 S CH KLÉBER UME Refund Point AM Le Bristol PS MADELEINE - EL UME Refund Point YS P.83 LA MADELEINE ÈE S Castille P.80 FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
CH
AV ENUE D ’I ÉNA
BOISSIÈRE
CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES CLEMENCEAU
P.81
CONCORDE
RU LA CONCORDE ED ER
LE GRAND PALAIS
IÉNA
ALMA-MARCEAU VOIE GEO RGES POM PIDO U
P.83
IVO
LI TUILERIES
INVALIDES
IB UA Q
SOLFÉRINO
LA TOUR-MAUBOURG
UL
OSQ
EIFFEL TOWER
BO
UE B
RA
NL Y
N AV E
QU AI AN AT NATIONALE ASSEMBLÉE OL EF RA NC LE MUSÉE D'ORSAY E
EV
UET
AR
LES INVALIDES
AI
NT -G
ER
U
ET
S
RUE DU BAC
D
VARENNE
ÉCOLE MILITAIRE
Place Of Interest
Metro
AV. DE BRETEUIL
AV E
N
U
E
DE
LA
M
OT
TE
-P
IC
Q
BIR-HAKEIM
SAINT-FRANÇOIS-XAVIER
P.87
LA TOUR MONTPARNASSE
RENNES
Train Station
Hotel
MA
IN
S H O P | 77
MOULIN ROUGE
B
BLANCHE
DE L A C
RD E VA OUL
H A P E LL E
R
SAINT-GEORGES ED RU
E ETT FAY LA POISSONNIÈRE
.D EL
A VI
UL
LL ET
AR EV
TE
DD EM
CHÂTEAU D'EAU
AG
EN
TA
JACQUES BONSERGENT
STRASBOURG SAINT-DENIS
SENTIER
PYRAMIDES
RÉA
RÉAUMUR U M SÉBASTOPOL UR
ÉTIENNE MARCEL
RÉPUBLIQUE AV E NU
ARTS ET MÉTIERS CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU
LES HALLES
RAMBUTEAU
CITÉ
BO
UL
LA R
EV AR
ÉPU
D
VO
IS ARCHA
CHÂTELET
PID
E DE
BEAUM
MUSÉE DU LOUVRE PONT NEUF VO I E G EO R GE SP OM
RÉPUBLIQUE TEMPLE
LEVARD BOU
LOUVRE RIVOLI
GONCOURT
BONNE NOUVELLE
RU E
PALAIS ROYAL MUSÉE DU LOUVRE
GARE DE L'EST
GRANDS BOULEVARDS
BOURSE
QUATRE SEPTEMBRE
T TE
GARE DU NORD
TRINITÉ - D'ESTIENNE D'ORVES CADET LE PELETIER CHAUSSÉE D'ANTIN LAFAYETTE Galeries Lafayete RICHELIEU - DROUOT OPÉRA GARNIER
AY E
BO
RUE
AF
VD BL
NOTRE-DAMEDE-LORETTE
E UG BE AU M E
L UE
HÔTEL HOTEL DE VILLE OU
NOTRE DAME DE PARIS
SAINT-GERMAIN -DES-PRÉS SAINT-MICHEL
SAINT-PAUL PONT MARIE
MABILLON SAINTSULPICE
ODEON CLUNY - LA SORBONNE MAUBERT - MUTUALITÉ
Global Blue Refund Point
BD
II NR . HE
V
PLACE DE LA BASTILLE
BLIQ
LT AI
RE
UE
78 | G U I D E
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
PHOTOS: @XDANERI
‘In Paris, the allure of Coco Chanel is felt everywhere’ - Ximena Daneri, SHOP’s assistant fashion and market editor
globalblue.com
S H O P | 79
Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @globalblue. Tag us in your pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!
S NÈ
AR
CE
AU
Non-Global Blue Retailer HE
● DI
LE AR
ON D●
AR
D
O AN EF I S T R I CC ●
EN ●
●
HO
A
B
● ● MA R I J E OS S BS
●B O RU
& UR ● I TH AL A R OX ● N F CA ● ● OT BO E R A ORG Y A RR S P GE ● BA BOS DE EUF O VE ● C A D U B M .C ● EV LA M. R ● RG EO A V E EG D U IS IQ RB UT GA BO ● E P PA ●
E RIJ
WE
Global Blue Refund Point EC LÉM ENT
CA
N
CR FÉ
MA RO
Y AZ
Metro
FR A
●
X LU
HO
L BA
RS
EN
N ÇO
UR
YL
E
B OW
LG AR I●
O
RU
S
MCS ●
ERIC BOMPARD ●
UENTIN BAUCHA RT
RY
EQ
MÈ
●R ● G OLEX ● K UESS RON OM ET
●H ER
OMEGA ●
THE KOOPLE S SPORT ● LACOSTE ●
LOUIS VUITTON ●
LANCEL ● DINH VAN ● NESPRESSO ● HUGO BOSS ●
IV
IN
IS 1E
G
●S MAL TO
BOWEN ●
BRU CE F ●F IE L D RAN FE C O IS DOR MME ● EM MEU O R IC JOH E N L O IL ● ●G IV E CAR BB ● NCH ●C T IE R Y ● ● M H AU M E TARA JARMON ● ● A O N TA IG T NGE PA U LS NE OPT LE K KUSMI TEA ● IQ U A● E BEST MOUTAIN ● LA M ● D A IS O S IC IS U CH N RU EP NIKE ● O CO ● L AT IER ●P IE TOMMY HILFIGER ● RE ● K RRE M C ARA HA D O N A R LY O ●B RR P T IC NA RUE M O N ANN TUIL ● ● T URMA IE N ARBE O UF ● Z M FOR IL L I D
RU E
ILL
● O
MO
NI LD
RÉ
IE
BU
GI NE ME NA ER Z EG ●
AT
RB
B RIO
NU
B● ●
EL
SE
B
S Y ON
ED
DE
BA SS AN
●
EM
AG NI
S SE GA U E ● L A MA N D U E ● GR TIQ A L BOU ●
RU
1ER
EV
RE
RT
RU E DE
ZIO
RG
IER
CH A
L CO OM
LE
EO
EP
AU ST HE
L CO S●
POINT PLUME ● UL R A N P LT I E J E AG A U N S SE ● OS IS G O PA R ● EA
EG
NU
N T IN
CE QUE -B A U
AR RI
NI LE
NU
AV E
M CH
MA OP LIN
E AV
Global Blue Retailer E E
RUE
RU OP
KO O● ●
E AV
ANO
U AR NZ
EV
A SS
GEORGE V
EO
N E TH
RG
KE
EG
DE B
NU
AV E E AV
RUE
ARC DE TRIOMPH E PUBLICIS ●
RUE BALZAC
MONTBLANC CELIO SWAROVSKI BANG & OLUFSEN GRAND OPTICAL PEUGEOT MILADY
RU E
WA
ED ZARA SOLARIS MORGAN H&M PROMOD
RU
EB
ER
RI
GUERLAIN BENETTON / SISLEY GALERIE 66 MAUBOUSSIN TIFFANY & CO. ● LA GRANDE RÉCRÉ
● SEPHORA ● ● ● ● ●
N
ALAIN AFFLELOU MARIONNAUD YVES ROCHER MARKS & SPENCER
G TO
GALERIES DES ● CHAMPS ELYSÈES ● MAC ● AMYTIS ● MARIO ROSSINI ● LEVI'S ● TISSOT GALERIE DU ● CLARIDGE
● ● ● ● ●
● ● ● ●
S H IN
MASSIMO DUTTI PETIT BATEAU IKKS JM WESTON
● SWATCH ● TAG HEUER
● ● ● ●
● LE LIDO
● ● ● ● ● ● ●
● CART IER
80 | G U I D E
Avenue des Champs-Elysées West, Avenue George V & Rue François 1er
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
R
E● AL OV O N ● T CO
T
E
● H GA ENC CIA GIV ●
Y
S H O P | 81
● GALERIE 26 ● ADIDAS ● BANANA REPUBLIC
● QUIKSILVER
● DISNEY ● ZARA HOME U ED U ● GAP CO
● NAF NAF
● GALERIE ELYSÉES
LI
● COMPTOIRS DE PARIS ● LOUIS PION
● MONOPRIX
ABE RCR OMB IE & FITC H ●
IEL
PSG ●
M ST L F A R B YLO OR E D ● U F ●S ● DA N
AIGL E ●
ZAD IG & VOLTAIR E ●
LT ● RR
N
LIE
RO
L’A TE
AR
FRANK LIN D. ROOSE VELT
AVENUE DES CHAMPS -ELYSÉES WO
EN
AU
S HO AND M M RO E●
SÉ
E
Avenue des Champs-Elysées East, Rue François 1er, Rue Marbeuf & Avenue Montaigne
LAMPE ● BERGER HE CH TE R
DE M
TA IG
NE
RUE
RU
RU
EM
AR
EP
BE
IER
UF
RE
CH
● IZ A C MARNI ● ● GUCCI CIF SAINT LAURENT ● ON ● ST DUPONT ● E L NIC GE LI ● ● BLUMARINE O N MONTAIGNE MARKET ● L TL LA ● MA AS ● EM HA ● JIL SANDER EN NR ● R Ê VI S O N ● DOLCE & GABBANA FA M A I Z AC O KIT E ● R M R ● ER ART ON ● OP BEU TIQ F ● RALPH LAUREN SIR IOLI ● UE EC FENDI ● P.40 ● BARBARA BUI BONBON G A CI ● FA CHANEL ● ● M ÇO N N L LO ● WATCH ● E ABL A JE TI L AIR BONPOINT ● E ESPACE LU SER MICH ● ER DE P ● MARIGNAN TO A● GE ● B OUS D AL N ● LOEWE I M K L REB AKRIS ● V S O IE ECC ● ● A CE F E S CO ● CHLOÉ A● RU E RU ANC B T S AZZEDIN E FR A R ● IN GE SALVATORE AT ● CHANEL ●F N ÇO NI AR LMA RE ALAÏA ● FERRAGAMO ● IS 1E GIA ● K● B A C O U R P.34 RE ’ S LI R ● ERES ● ● DIAMANT BLANC O R E D DY M E R T ● ● T ZIM ● REVILLON LI ● ● ● VERSACE ● NA HE I ● C A ROC LIAN P TIC ● EMILIO PUCCI P.43 A NE T O T L ● CAZAK RUE E Y R S R ● GIVENCHY P.38 A F G U CO FI R R ANÇ FIG T ● OIS JIMMY AIN R AN L 1ER ● CHOO ● A ER G LIV ON E N ● CARON ● O AIS RUFF ANNE VA E M T FONTAINE ● I N H G & TA I R LA E LA ● D Z A D I VO L D NINA RICCI ● ● ● ● CHRISTIAN SANDRO ● E DIOR COUTURE OR ST INE IGU B ● ARBE
RU E M
EC
N
L ÉM
ENT
RI D ●C OO TW AR UIN H EQ ● BR ILE ANI RIS ● V A ● AM N USE P CK AN LA M R ●F
●C ÉL
NOUEZ MOI ●
TA IG
ON
EM
NU CC A
DO
● LOUIS VUITTON
● GIORGIO ARMANI
● MANOUSH
● JOSEPH
● BOTTEGA VENETA
R
● CESARE PACIOTTI ● GUISEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● PRADA ● LORO PIANA
AP
OS
BO
AV E
DU
UL T● HA RT
PO D.
T
CA RIT TR A● OP VA HE LE ● NT INO ●
E ILL MO RÉ AT EL ED RU
RO
MAX MARA ● VICTORIA COUTURE ● HARRY WINSTON ●
RUE
● BASILE
MA
NE
UF
54E
FU
RS DIAN TEN E V BER ON G● AV E NUE ● THE H CHA EYE OUSE RLE WEA OF S JO URD R ● STÉ AN ● PHA NE K É L IA THO N● MAS P IN K●
IN E
AV E
NU
EM
NAN
ON
A R IG
RU
O MS
● ESCADA
● GIORGIO ARMANI
Place Of Interest
SHOP Recommendation
CO
Featured In This Issue
UR
L SA
BE
RT
1E R
82 | G U I D E
SToRie As the name suggests, Storie specialises in distinctive objects that have their own story to tell, and the boutique favours products made by independent designers over mass-produced items. The resulting range is delightfully eclectic and universally high-quality, ofering everything from patterned cushions and light-bulb shaped vases to pewter picture frames. expect to fnd jewellery by Louise Vurpas, accessories by Veja, Suzani cushions and scarves by textile artist Beshlie mcKelvie among the store’s myriad temptations. Storie, 20 rue Delambre, 75014 paris, +33 (0)1 8356 0198, storieblog.com
Wempe The diverse, high-quality range of timepieces and jewellery on ofer at Wempe has helped the company become one of Germany’s most prestigious brands. The label was established in 1878 and since then has cultivated a select collection of exquisite timepieces and standout jewellery. every piece is designed to be individual
globalblue.com
and makes use of the fnest materials, such as diamonds, pearls and coloured gemstones, while the store’s own timepiece collection is complemented by a range of watches by leading international brands, including Cartier, Breitling, Rolex, Longines and Vacheron Constantin. Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com for map go to page 84
● KRIS VAN ASSCHE
Featured In This Issue
H E LLE
AV .D
NO RÉ
FREYWILLE ●
E
L’ O
PÉ
RA
E L IE U
FREYWILLE ● EB MEYROWITZ ● H. STERN ●
Place André Malraux
E R IC H
Place Vendôme
NO RÉ
LORENA ● ANTIONIAZZI
AN NIC K GO ALE XA ND RE DE UTA L ● ● G U ER PAR IS ● LA AN NIE CO RVA ● GOYA IN LL ● RD GOYA RD ● ● KU SU M MIL LER ● ● G U CC I TE A I GU ISE PPE ZA NO TTI DES IGN ● J.P. HE VIN CH ● TOY WATCH OC OL ATI ER ● LYD A CO UR TEI ● PAT RIC E FAB LLE ● RE LUC IEN PEL LAT ● BA LDI NIN I -FIN ET ● CH UR CH ’S ● ● MOYN AT P.18 KU ZU ● ● PH ILIP PE FER RIC HA RD GR AN RA ND IS D●
IG LI O N E
RU E SA IN T- HO
RUE D
IL
METAL FLAQUE ●
R U E D E L’ E C
AUDIO ● TECHNICA
● AESOP
● CHANEL
MES SIKA ● ● TOM FORD MOR ABIT O ● ● JIMMY CHOO TOM FORD ● ● ZARA WOL FORD ● ● HUGO BOSS OCTO PUSS Y ● ● BROOKS BROTHER S CADO LLE ● ● VIKTOR & ROLF P.43 DEVE RNO IS ● ● EMPORIO ARMANI LINE A PIU ● ● PARFUMS DIOR CHLO É ● PORT S 1961 ● ● MIKI HOUSE DSQU ARED 2 ● TUM I ● ● BOY ZIMMERL I WES TON ● ● OMEGA YVES SALO MON ● HOTE L COST ES ● ● ALEXIS FR AT EL LI ● CHOPARD RO SS ET TI ● RU E D E CA ST
LONGCHA MP REPETO TARA JARMON ANNE FONTAINE ZAPA HERVE CHAPELIE R DENIS LEON DODO JOHN GALLIANO EL HAN UET ● C GAL PIG O GE RS ● F D E M A E L I A L E PA É U RD ● A ● C O FA U R ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
RUE DU FAUBOURG SA INT- HO NO RÉ
Rue Saint-Honoré East
BRUCE FIELD ●
PAUL SMIT H ● MISSONI ●
LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROS SI ● CARITA ● LA BAGAGER I E ● BERLU TI ● MONCL ER ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●
TOD’S ● CARTIER ●
CHANEL ●
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL ● CORNELIANI ● RENE CAOVILLA ●
HEURGON ● OSCAR CARVALLO ●
VALENTINO ●
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JITROIS YSL YVES SALOMON BRIONI
P.106 ● LANVI N FEMM E ● LA PERLA ERMAN NO ● SCERV INO ● BOTTE GA VENETA ● CAMPE R ● LORO PIANA ● PRADA ● PINKO ● GUCCI
● HERMÈS
● GIVENCHY
● JUN ASHIDA ● YSL ● BOUCHERON
● ● ● ● ●
RÉ
CAREL ● NU ●
EU
● NODUS ● L'EQUIPÉE ● ANGLAISE TOUS CECILE ET ● JEANNE ● CASTANER SHIATZY ● CHEN ● VEBER
NT
Non-Global Blue Retailer
RU E SA IN T- HO
NOCIBE ● CHEMINS BLANCS ●
RA MI DE S
PATRIZIA PEPE ●
ROBE RTO CAVA LLI ●
RUE C AM BO N
DJULA ●
SANDRO ●
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
RU E DE S PY
● PARABOOT ● COTÉLAC
● SEQUOIA
● BONPOINT ● MONIES ● GUESS ● STONE ISLAND ● SATELLITE
LONGCHAMP ● HUBLOT ● CHRONOPASSION ● DJULA ●
R U E S A I N T- F L O R E N T I N
T-H O N O
GE
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● PETIT BATEAU ●
G S A IN
ELENA MIRO ● ROGER & GALLET ● DDP ● THE KOOPLES ● HILIO ● OLDEN ●
NO RÉ
● PIQUADRO ● BABY TUILERIES MONTRES ● SAINT-HONORÉ ● JO MALONE ● MAC
EM ● B ANUEL ERG MA ● F UD R IZ ●V ON ● R A LOM TA R O S A C B R E U S ● C T IN E &L A R A E ● L H O CO ● M O R I B LL AT ● P A R IN A U P .36 IE R RE C ARD ● SOT IN H E BY ’S ● M IL A D FRET T Y E● ● BU K ID S P RMA AC E ● ● CHO PA R D ● SO N IA R Y K IE L ● PO IR AY ● PA U L & SH ARK ● CHR IS T IA N LOU ● APO BOUT STRO IN PHE ● ETR O ● PO MELL AT O ● JO H N R IC HMON ● BAR D BAR A BUI ● BALLY ● DESTRAY ● BLUGIRL ● BLUMARIN E ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● DAMIR DOMA ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA ● LEONARD ROGER VIVIER ● ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O LANCÔME ●
BOUR
'A R
Global Blue Retailer FA U
COLETTE ● CHANTAL THOMASS ● PATAUGAS ● TOSCA BLU ● PENHALIGON’S ● MULBERRY ● CREA CONCEPT ● FRAGONARD ●
● BALENCIAGA
RU E SA IN T- HO
● PODIUM DEFENSE ● D'AFFICHER
VILEBREQUIN ● FURLA ● MICHAEL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● ESCADA ● VALENTINO ●
● WEMPE ● LANCASTE R ● LEETHA ● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● SEBASTIA N ● BRACCIAL INI ● BERENICE ● BCBGMAX AZRIA ● MAX MARA
RUE ROYALE
DU
ED
MIU MIU ● MANOUSH ● LOOK ● BA&SH ● THEORY ●
● BURMA ● STUART WEITZMAN COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS
RU E
RU
PAULE KA ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ●
S H O P | 83
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Rue Saint-Honoré West
84 | G U I D E
Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale DH E VA R BOUL
AU SS
● GAP
GUERLAIN ●
MANN
DEVERNOIS ●
● EPISODE
JEAN VIER ●
● E M T● HO UL T ● R A I PA L A Z A L CO O
N DU
CH
LA
M
LE
IN
IS CO T N AN NE TO FR PI ES ● .W J.M ●
●
DE
E AD
E
● HE YR D
DA
AU
AN
O
CK
TH CA
DU
IL
NA
E
RI
CH
A LO
N
RU E D ’AN JO U
R T IN
NG
AR NT
DE
Non-Global Blue Retailer
● KENZO
● MAISON DE FAMILLE ● TRUSSARDI
GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI ● VERTU ● WEMPE
VE
BERNARDAUD ● CRISTAL LALIQUE ● CHRISTOFLE ● J.L COQUET ●
●
A. TESTONI ● HEURGON ● BONPOINT ● ST LOUIS ●
RUE ROYALE
LOUIS PION ● E ● ODIOT ● IER T I N S ● LOXWOOD ● R I● A OS UT M ● ● CERR R ● AIN & R E ● E AL ELL ENN JEUN E AR DIO B GR LE W LO E D S● AS ● Y D AR LE G U DO U FICIN L E S C A CHANEL ● ES OF ESCA IS E U ● APC ● LO ● RI NG PIJ GUCCI ● PA E M L I NA
C&
AT
●
AR
●
●
CC
VA
M
A
A ●B
LE
●
RI
U BO
RD
●
AZ
ES
VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●
Global Blue Retailer
AX
RB
SAMSUNG ●
RUE DU FAUBOU RG SAIN T- H ON OR É
M
HE
MARGARET HOWELL ● MAILLE ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● RALPH LAUREN ●
ES
● MARELLA
BG
AL
LI
BC
M
MA
ZW
● FAUCHON ● SEPHORA ● ALAIN FIGARET
IL
E FF RU D AT IAR E L ED ON D SPIA H R ● AIS R K A BE D ● M V I A MADELE INE NT UR RA IEL ● CA ●B EF RG C E U V R LI D● BO ● O ●B IEL NF U MA DIN LE R ● VA JA Place de la L E YS S E RD L D ’U Madeleine RY
SO
● AS E ● OL BOS
AI
NIC
M
SAINT JAMES ● CORALIE ●
CROCK ETT AND JONES ●
● THE KOOPLES ● LA CARPE ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E S WA RFA U C E ● ● ●
LA
BRITISH STOCK ● OBREY ● PETIT BATEAU ●
RUE D U FA UB OU RG SAI N T-HONORÉ
AU
● HERMÈS
RUE TRONCHET
JACADI ● DIELETH ● CATIMINI ●
EC
OLIVER GRANT ●
RU
● ANNE FONTAINE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● BRIC’S PAUL & ● JOE SISTER
● GANTS HELION ● CAROLL ● JB GUANTI
U R OY
AS
JOHN LOBB ●
● NATALYS ● BONNIE DOON ● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX ● WINONA ● EMA PIAZI ● CHASSAGN ARD
DE MA
AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●
MAJE ●
● CAFE COTON ● EKYOG ● LA MAROQUIN ERIE PARISIENNE
O D OT
LAGUIOLE ●
ER
RUE G
SY D'ANGL RUE BOIS
● YVES DELORME ● THE KOOPLES ● GUY DEGRENNE ● AGATHA
ALESSI ●
AU B
● MASSIMO DUTTI
RUE TRONCHET
MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● SABOR ● PRINCESSE TAM-TAM ● RODIER ● CHARLES COTONAY ● EMLING ●
● SIA NINE WEST ●
RUE
UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●
● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS
P.82
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ ● POIRAY ● LACHAUME ● CORINA ● ROYAL QUARTZ ● MILLIAUD ● O.J PERRIN ● HAVILAND / DAUM ● ARTHUS BERTRAND
Metro
SHOP Recommendation
S H O P | 85
Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO
● BENETTON
PU
CI
NE
S
Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe
S C R IB E
KIWI ●
EN
CA
DE D
● BENETTON
ALFRED DUNHILL ●
● BASLER PRINCESSE ● TAM.TAM
IWC ● GARLAND ●
CI
NE
S
TA PA G RK PHILIPPE B C A H E U ● FERRANDIS ● U C R T E R ● CALIDA HE IE ● GOLFINO ● RE R ● R ● M COMPTOIR DES AJ ● IKKS COTONNIERS ● E●
PU
CARTIER ●
S
CA
MELLERIO ●
● OMEGA
● BALLY
● MC GREGOR ● WESTON ● LACOSTE ● HACKETT ● MANFIELD ● GANT ● HABITAT ● AIGLE B GA AB P Y ●
●
RUE DE LA PAIX
●
RUE VOLNEY
RA
P
UL
GA
BO
ZA
EV AR
D
DE
HERZO ● MONTBLANC ●
RUE DAUNOU
OFFICINE PANERAI ● PARK HYATT● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● AMIN KADER ●
BULGARI ● ● ● R IE ON RT IT T CA VU IS OU
DUBAIL ●
L
RUE DE LA PAIX
ED
P.4 0
Place Opéra
EV AR
RUE
● ERIC BOMPARD CAFE DE LA PAIX ●
UL
B ER
MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● A.LANGE & SHONE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● BACCARAT ●
S
LANCEL ● GUESS ● DESIGUAL ● MATY ●
BO
RUE AU
● CHRISTOF LE ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● NOBLESSE DE NAPLES ● ZIMMERLI ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● LERY ● DINH VAN ● STARK & SONS ● BURMA ● BREUER ● KORLOFF ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● BREITLING ● ANSHINDO ● JAQUET DROZ ● TIFFANY & CO. ● HARRY WINSTON ● DAUM VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN
RUE
IE L DA N
● CHARVET ● MONTALE ● BOUCHERO N ●
Le Ritz
Place Vendôme
One of the leaders in the Swiss watch and jewellery sector and a company that has become synonymous with quality, Bucherer has a prestigious reputation. The company was established by carlFriedrich Bucherer in 1888 and is still family-run today, resulting in a collection that is steeped in tradition and a team of staf who are experts in their feld. The collection includes almost 50,000 diferent items. Pearl and gemstone creations, designed and handcrafted in Bucherer’s own workshops, are ofered alongside the fnest timepieces by rolex, cartier, Omega and chopard. Bucherer, 12 boulevard des capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7099 1888, bucherer.com
Hotel
Featured In This Issue
●
& EF
CHOPARD ●
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
● ● ● ●
VA
AR
PE
E BR
GU
ET
LS
LE NC VA ● BLANCPAIN ● MAUBOUSSIN ● CHANEL ● PIAGET P.36 ● SWATCH ● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT
● MIKIMOTO ● DIOR ● REPOSSI
● GIANMARI A BUCCELLATI
FRED ●
OMEGA ●
SANO
PATEK ● PHILIPPE
Bucherer ROLEX ● JAEGER LE-COULTRE ●
LE CA
RICHARD MILLE ST CHARLES DAMIANI GUERLAIN
RUE SAIN T-HO NOR É
86 | G U I D E
Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle AU VIEUX CAMPEUR: 48 RUE DES ÉCOLES (1KM) ● MAXIMILIEN ● CAROLL ●
MABILLON ● ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES CHEVIGNON ● ● AN’GE ●L BOSS ● ● D O D I N ● CAREL ● N ARO G ● A ANIE N IGL E
LA HUNE ARTHUS BERTRAND ● LOUIS VUITTON ●
N
R
EMPORIO ● ARMANI
ER
M
AI
Brasserie Lipp FAÇONNABLE ● POM D’API ● ● CARON PARIS GERARD DAREL ● FREELANCE ● SHU UEMURA ● DIAMANTISSIMO ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● ARTHUR & FOX MURAT ● GUESS ● MAUBOUSSIN ● ● JUST CAMPAGNE IKKS ● LIU JO ● ALAMBRIC ● ● BURBE RRY SA
IN
TG
RU
EB
● TRUSSARDI
D
EV AR
E
● MAX MARA
ON
A PA
RT E
SEQUOIA ● NILAÏ ● ● THE KOOPLES AUBADE ● HERVE AGNÈS B ● ● TAG HEUER ● CHAPELIER ● NAPA PIJRI AXARA ● ● THE KOOPLES GAP ● ZADIG & MARIONNA UD ● ● STEFAN GREEN ● VOLTAIRE DESCAMPS ● ● BERLUTI LAMARTHE ● ● VILEBREQUIN AMERICAN PAUL & ● RALPH LAUREN MAJE ● RETRO ● ● JOE SISTER AGNES & RU ● SONIA RYKIEL ET VOUS ● E UGG ● ● HOTEL HOMME ● DU PARTICULIER DR SUGAR ● ● JENISA A ● REPETTO VENISE ● ● ETRO ● A COTÉ ● PATAUGAS MANOUSH ● ● JANE PHILIP ALEXANDRA SOJFER TIMBERLAND ● KERRY MARA ● SAINT-SULPICE EDWARD GREEN CORIOLAN ● SANDRO ● RU SHADE SAVE THE QUEEN HESCHUNG ● ● APRIATI ● ED ● A NDR E S ● BARBARA BUI FATHER ● LOEWE GALERIE MARINA RINALDI ● É V SA & SONG ● ● E IC T O IR LARIO ● IN TS HESCHUNG ● ● M M L IN G E H O M P È ● VENTILO ME SPRINT ● SUNDEK ● ● OL A RCEL L RE S TOD’S ● ARTHUR & FOX ● ● L O IV E R G R A S S A N C NGC E ANT AUBADE ● ● H CALIEVA ● ● C C L A U D IE A M P O P MARIONNAUD ● ● P O S M O PA IE R L O T R IS O’FASHION ● ● C A IR AY MPE GUESS ● R MONDE RER ● KIPLING ● B’ROOM GRAFITTI ● ● SWATCH E PRINCESSE LL ● MANFIELD E TAM.TAM ● N E DURANCE ● ● EQUIPAGGIAMENTI GR ● MARITHÉ FRANÇOIS GIRBAUD E SHANG XIA ● ● HOUR PASSION ED P.36 BOBBI RU ● LOSCO ● MAJE STOCK BROWN ● ● FREY WILLE ● CAFÉ COTON PABLO ● ● OLIVER GRANT GERARD DAREL ● ● JET SET SANDRO THIBAULT ● OMEGA ● ● MARISA BERLUTTI ● ● DERBY ALAIN FIGARET ● ● PARALLELE CYRILLUS ● ● MAC DOUGLAS LE TANNEUR ● ● MAJE BIBA ● ● PISCINE
N
OM
N
BIE
RE
BO
DE
R
E
UL
RU
● LA BAGAGERIE 7 FOR ALL ● MANKIND
RU
EV
IEU
XC
OL
ES
GO
VIGNES ● KARL LAGERFELD ●
N
● ● ● ●
VILLEROY & BOCH ●
● HEYRAUD SERGE BLANCO ● ● LA POINTURE ● COSMO LOLA ● ● KINZA ● PATRICK GERARD ● KOOKAÏ CHRISTIAN LACROIX ● ● LA CENTRALE ● SILK & CASHMERE THEA SO SWEET ● ● BEL AIR SAINT LAURENT ● ● PETIT BATEAU ● MANDARINA DUCK ANNICK GOUTAL ●
L P IC
SUD EXPRESS ● COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ● TARA JARMON ● BOOT SHOP ● TED ● BAKER CANDY ROCKETS ● TEENFLO ●
S A IN
TE
T SU
SAINT-GERMAIN DES-PRÉS
PH
AR
RU E DU FO U
AP
SE
ON
JO
EB
A BI RTS JO UX ET ●●
RU
CARVEN ●
RUE
● FRANCIS KLEIN
BIJOUTERIE PELLEGRIN ● COMPTOIR DE FAMILLE ●
RU
E
DE
RE
N
N
TH
ES
IN
RS EU NT T T ILL IN RE OO T A LE S A L A UR A B AR BIL IN ● PA E P A RT ● LL S M A M I E NU X N ● ALE ISO A OR AT O ● ● MA IEL LV M R ● I ● ARG EN SA GA E ● CH A M E M RV AN LE RR AM IN K ● CA FR EL FE K ÉL O ● C C S S N A ● HA EN ● LE TT RE S C F E G S AR M EF O R ● ● AB GO CH IS S T MO A I S I ●● .TA DI S EL EN AM E T O AU ● I IN ● ET RM 'A AC O R E I S S CA 45 RF GI UR IR N ● ES ● C ● S U SER AU T MA H IN T R ITZ MI PR TE TT ● WE L S NE TIS RT AU EN AP UA P -B .B ST AN L.K LE JE ● EL NU AN I● MA SM I FIF EM ZY BUK T N IA ● KA KE ST ● ● WIC RI TIN ● C HB O U K E T B ● ● U AR IC LO E M OR
SA
ON
RU
RUE DE SÈVRES
ED
UC
HE
RC
HE
-M
ID
I
● HERMÈS
BOUL EVAR D RASPAIL
SÈVRES - BABYLONE
Le Bon March é
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Restaurant
Metro
Featured In This Issue
Place Of Interest
S H O P | 87
EB
ART
RU
RU E DU
S WA R OV SKI APO ● STR OPH E● F ABR ● AG HUS IC A E● BER ● TE THA TRA REM ND ● D IN IS ● SE BAKER CEN C IK E● O D IN H VA N LES M ● ● C IT D ID IE O N T R E S Y PH ● R GU ARM E R IN A ●
Parisian jewellery designer Aurélie Bidermann takes inspiration from her extensive international adventures, producing pieces that are emotive, creative and distinctive. every item is handmade by the city’s fnest craftsmen; Bidermann is known for challenging convention by combining typical materials with more experimental items such as tactile, gold-dipped feathers and ears of wheat. Aurélie Bidermann, 55 bis rue des Saints-Pères, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 4314, aureliebidermann.com
RU E
FO UR MA X ●M MAR AND NES A● A R IN ●M A DU MAR PRESSO A X& CK MOI LE J ● S T E L C O ‘P O LO LA ● F RA C Q U A R D ANÇ P EN FOREST ● ● A NYB P R IN C IS L AC K ● ● E SS T IK BER E N IC ● ● Z A I T IH AWE TA M .T E LES AM A ● G A PA P E T IT J O S E P ● H● S HA ● IV R E L L A UTS LES O ● N A IR E D E L AT E L IE ● A MA ● V E T H A L IE IL R S ● B A N T IL O C H A IZ E K IR L E ● P IE R RE H ANE ● ● IN & S H ERM ● M D IE S É K IE L ● ● C OIN E L L I ’S SEQ SMO U O IA ● ● P M ● C O M IK A S A R A R IS ● C P T O IR D O L E A OTO N N IE E S RS
Rue Bonaparte
Aurélie BidermAnn
ON
A PA
RT E
DE
RE
N
N
ES
U
Rue des Saints-Pères & Rue de Rennes ON
AP
SAINT-GERMAIN DES-PRÉS AR TE
E
EB
L P IC
RU
S A IN
T SU
● CARTIER ● DEVERNOIS ● LANCEL ● ZARA M ● AR X ● MONTBLANC I O R RI P ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS O PO ● N ● ESTEBAN O L EM E M N ● J.M. WESTON A ● RU EF BY ● ● ORESSENCE EB T X ON S GN LE N ● I ● TOURNAIRE A PA ● S O O E RT E R D SO ● D N O A N ZO ● FT L G EN IDS ● T LO T EL K K NE ● ● NAPAPIJRI E P P LO A CK ● ICE WATCH N GA A G EL E HA M ● JB GUANTI KI L A TT AN JO R Y E L XO E R M ● THE KOOPLES A A S D ● BO CONCEPT C NI SE G BID ● AN ● WEEKEND MAX MARA S O U I VA NL I E D L C R B S JA R ● LO ER R É ● O CREATION D'ICI UE F NS LE BA S ● S AU F I L E ● ET D'AILLEURS DU ● E EM AR EL O ● M Z ● ● W A H ST H A ● LEONIDAS O J ● C C R R T I N CA 1 ● ● ● ET DU IN 5 R BU RU EA DE É 8 A E A J E A P ED 0 S H ● SAINT-SULPICE D M ● É R M C A ES P A AK SA ● SH RB RO N IN ● FOSSIL ● T BA S ES JO A ’ V ● S PÈ ● A P Y ● LO Y S RE OS ON CA É TI ● RI 0 ● ● ARTHUR S S R R N M A ● P 195 E D ● ● IA R VE E ● BRANDY MELVILLE IE M B B A JA AN ● ● ON INA OM Y E ● ER SA AR R M O● ST R V B G H O ● T M L N E ● E HE ● LI FE EL RO ● HE JO T ● GEOX N E T E B I A N ● A E AM VA JO NE ES UL & ● A D TO DH OR ● ● HENRY PHILIPPE NE ET 78 L & AN P R A S RO PA AI U D VAT M O U ● E L T G D ● B L E N N L A PA O R RT ● SA BY S A AG FO RG M A ● A ● E R B E N U ● R N O B N B L ● R ’S E ST ● A N E V T EN IZO Y SA X FE ● LL DY H E NE ● IAN RS FR RD ● M RU RE ET LL T U UD O LI ● B D EG R F K F VI D S I A O A T ● IA E R ● S P M U X M I R 0 A R TB S 6 ● N DU ● HA UL NG EL 1 7 AC ● AI J A O L R ● D D T M ● H A IE O R ● S EE UN JOUR AILLEURS ● ● RR IST BE CR ● BA H RO H L . EP S M BA RUE
●
DE
TG
E
ER
RU
M
AI
N
I AN
N
SA
N
IN
RE
ED
EN
BO
SH
UL
O
ES
●
EV AR
D
ES
DR
AG
BI
M
LO
VI
EU
X
CO
DE
E
E
RU
RU
RUE DU FOU R
ER
ON
RE
N
N
ES
SHOP Recommendation
88 | G U I D E
La Vallée Village
La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com
Don’t MISS… Church’s one of the most acclaimed brands in the men’s luxury footwear industry, Church’s was founded in England in 1873 and since then has gained a devoted following for its use of high-quality leather, expert craftsmanship and quintessentially English sense of style.
Lancel Luxury leather brand Lancel has a rich heritage which it often draws upon to create vintage-inspired designs for a modern
globalblue.com
Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm Saturday-Sunday: 10am–8pm
Vanessa Bruno Vanessa Bruno is one of Paris’s most popular fashion designers, known for her unique interpretation of postromantic femininity with a refreshing, androgynous take on contemporary womenswear. those favouring her designs tend to have a well-developed sense of style and like to stand out from the crowd; sequined tote bags, fuid dresses and lisle knits are all Bruno wardrobe staples.
audience. the company was established in Paris in 1876 and since then has consistently produced collections that combine intelligent design and fne leather craftsmanship with contemporary fashion trends.
S H O P | 89
PERFECt DAY
How to GEt tHERE
10am
By car from Paris
Start your day’s shopping by picking up one of Polo Ralph Lauren’s signature polo shirts, emblazoned with the label’s iconic horse logo. this is a key wardrobe piece for those looking to perfect the defnitive American preppy-chic style.
take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; there are 2,300 free spaces. By car from Reims
6pm 12pm Pause for lunch at Pret A Manger. this gourmet sandwich shop prides itself on sourcing the fnest fresh ingredients. Choices include fresh soups, baguettes, crisp salads and delicious pastries, accompanied by a cup of ethically sourced organic cofee.
Prepare for chillier evenings by visiting Eric Bompard. the label has made its name by combining fne Mongolian wool and artisanal knitting techniques to create cashmere pieces of the highest quality that are wonderfully soft.
4pm 3pm Be sure to schedule a stop at Carven into your day’s itinerary. this historic French fashion house has reinvented itself since creative director Guillaume Henry joined the brand in 2009. Carven is now known for producing sought-after ready-to-wear collections that epitomise the modern interpretation of Parisian chic.
no footwear brand encapsulates red-carpet glamour like Jimmy Choo and its outlet boutique is the perfect place to fnd a pair of show-stopping heels. Embellishment is found across the range, on everyday sneakers and towering stilettos alike. Don’t miss the rest of the store’s ofering: handbags, eyewear and fragrances are all available.
Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/ Entrée A. Shopping Express coach service La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express service ofers two daily coaches from central Paris. Depart from place des Pyramides at 9.30am and return from La Vallée Village at 2.30pm or depart at 12.30pm and return at 5pm. By train the closest tGV train station is Marne-laVallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station. By RER train, take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station. La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away. A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every Sunday.
90
When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process. 1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €175.01 and save an average of 12% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 99 /
101
/
104
The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save
The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the world’s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register *Subject to local conditions.
92
Refund Locations Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 1
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall D
First Floor 20
16
18
14
22
12
24
10 To the Gates
26
D73
D54
8
i
1
28
6 12
30
11
10
9 8
1
7
6
5
4
4
32 34
i
2 36
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall A
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall E Gate E34
1 1
Gate E35-36
2
Gate E39-40
Gate E38
2
First Floor
i
Gate E37 Gate E37
3 3
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall B
4
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall F
1
2 First Floor
i
i Ground Floor
3
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 2 Hall C
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 3
1
i
2 1
i
Key
Other refund location details: Partner refund point
Customs stamp
Landside
Tax Free mailbox
Check-in area
Airside
Security control Stairs
globalblue.com
i
Information Pablo kiosk
Galeries Lafayete, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris UME Change Elysées, Galerie du Claridge, 74 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris UME Change du Claridge, Galerie 66, 66 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie Elysées du 26, 26 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris
CHANGE
EXCHANGE
Taux nets - Net rates / 10h00 - 20h00 7/7 days non stop
Ne perdez plus de temps à l’aéroport ! UME vous rembourse vos détaxes Global Blue en cash ! Sous certaines conditions. Renseignements chez UME.
Service V.I.P disponible dans certaines boutiques. Don’t waste any time at the airport ! Tax Refund in downtown Paris, in cash, at UME ! (Under specifc terms and conditions. Information available at UME bureaux.)
V.I.P. service available in a number of UME bureaux. 不要在機場浪費時間了! 我們UME可以把藍聯退稅單 退現金給您! *受限於若干條件，請資訊UME。
Не тратьте больше времени аэропорт! UME вернем Вам денежные dtaxes Rserve при определенных условиях Информация из UME.
在某些指定商店有提供 V.I.P.服務。
Доступны в некоторых магазинах VIP обслуживание.
CHA NGE ÉLYS ÉE 66
CHANGE DU CLARIDGE 74
26 avenue des Champs Elysées 75008 Paris - France
66 avenue des Champs Elysées 75008 Paris - France
74 avenue des Champs Elysées 75008 Paris - France
Tel : +33 (0)1 53 76 28 51
Tel : +33 (0)1 42 25 19 01
Tel : +33 (0)1 45 63 99 28
CHA NGE É LYS É E S 2 6
www.ume-world.com w ww ww.ume ww w.ume--w wor w orld orld ld.c .com .com
giuseppe zanotti design
shop at www.giuseppezanottidesign.com
printemps-ĂŠtĂŠ 2014
95
Translations Русский ПеРевод 46: Out Of Africa
Прогулка по Африке
Клэр Кулсон отмечает особое внимание мира моды к экзотическим культурам Первый признак того, что мода отправляется исследовать дальние страны, появился задолго до шоу сезона весна/лето 2014. Поворотный момент случился в середине показов осенней коллекции haute couture Рафа Симонса для Christian Dior. Дизайнер отошел от привычных силуэтов в стиле New Look и элегантных globalblue.com
парижских дневных платьев, чтобы вывести в центр внимания замысловатые вариации на этнические костюмы. Яркие узкие платья оранжевого, кобальтового, красного и черного оттенков удачно сочетались с широкими фольклорными воротниками, а тонкие тюлевые наряды с замысловатыми комбинациями клеток и полос напоминали традиционную одежду африканского племени масаи. Понадобилось совсем немного времени, чтобы эта тема получила широкое распространение. Стелла Теннант сопровождала Симонса прошлой осенью на Guggenheim International Gala в платье с драпировкой и принтами в африканском духе. Но еще накануне весенне-летние коллекции были пронизаны экзотическими мотивами родом из жарких стран: насыщенные земляные тона, контрастные принты, напоминающие энергичные костюмы восточной Африки, а также плиссировка, источником которой также можно назвать этнические костюмы. Каждый сезон модные редакторы и критики удивляются, что же заставляет моду снова и снова возвращаться к африканским мотивам. Но когда влиятельные и независимые дизайнеры, как Раф Симонс, Сара Бертон из Alexander McQueen, Рикардо Тиши из Givenchy и Фиби Фило из Céline, одновременно отправляются в модное путешествие, игнорировать тенденцию просто невозможно. Очевидно, что мэтры представляют вниманию зрителей вариации на тему национальных костюмов с многовековой историей, хотя никто из дизайнеров публично этой связи не признает. Фиби Фило, например, говорила о «сильной энергетике, мощи»: она объединила топы в африканском стиле с длинными плиссированными юбками. Кроме того, она использовала яркие принты в виде широких мазков краски для драпированных многослойных комплектов, а также потрепанные шарфы с росписью. Рикардо Тиши называет источником вдохновения для своей коллекции весна/лето
96
для Givenchy творчество кутюрье Мадам Гре, прославившуюся объемными нарядами из джерси и шелка. В то же время его модный показ был обставлен в африканском стиле: визажист Пэт МакГрат аккуратно нарисовала маски прямо на лицах моделей, одетых в платья их джерси приглушенных оттенков – хаки, табак, терракот и выжженный апельсин, а на их плечи были наброшены перфорированные кожаные шали. «В коллекции столкнулись две культуры – японская и африканская, - пояснил Тиши. – Плиссировка и драпировка в стиле Мадам Гре, как и цветовая гамма, навевают романтику жарких стран. Но в то же время я объединил их с японской элегантностью и утонченностью». Подобная комбинация может показаться странной, но тонкие платья, украшенные кожаными ремешками, обеспечили успех Тиши. Более того, он даже избавился от привычных туфель на высоких каблуках, отдав предпочтение свободным сандалиям на плоской подошве. Для многих дизайнеров африканское влияние связано с модернистским искусством начала 20 века. В то время южная экзотика вдохновляла дизайнеров и художников, в частности - Пикассо и Мондриана. «Я не хотела, чтобы мои работы были связаны с определенным периодом или темой», - рассказывает Сара Бертон о своем захватывающем показе для McQueen. В нем отчетливо просматривались востребованные темы, искусно переплетенные между собой: этнические костюмы, искусство модернизма и, конечно, богатое наследие этого модного дома. Бертон сконструировала нагрудники из крокодиловой кожи, юбки из замысловатых геометрических форм и впечатляющие платья с яркими перьями. Для многих африканские влияния в этом сезоне стали данью современной эклектике. èднако Moncler максимально наглядно проиллюстрировала эти путешествия на южный континент – в жакетах для сафари, в сочетании хаки с принтами под леопарда, жирафа и змеи, в отделке экзотическими перьями. Александр МакКуин как-то раз отметил, что для него главным источником вдохновения всегда был National Geographic. globalblue.com
Потрясающие коллекции, в основе которых лежит столкновение самых разных культур, прекрасно это иллюстрируют. Грядущей весной этот экстравагантный дух особенно расцветет, благодаря активной работе молодых дизайнеров-авангардистов. Благодаря плодотворному творчеству романтиков от моды, мы можем в буквальном смысле примерить экзотические культуры на себя. Топы с помпонами марки Dries Van Noten навевают мысли о домотканых гобеленах и коврах североафриканских берберов. Культура тех краев послужила источником образов для изысканно расшитых накидок, пальто и платьев, представленных на запоминающемся шоу Valentino. Именно так самые невероятные модные фантазии и страсть к творческим путешествиям воплощаются в жизнь. 54: Top Table
Во главе стола Стивен Дойг рассказывает о парижских мастерах, которые создают восхитительную столовую утварь из фарфора и стекла Париж – идеальное место для процветания изысканных ремесел. Живым подтверждением тому могут быть ювелирные магазины на роскошной Вандомской площади и модные универмаги на rue de Rivoli. Однако ярче всего истинно французское умение обставлять повседневную жизнь со вкусом и элегантностью проявляется во всевозможной домашней утвари. Здесь имеет значение не только то, что пить, но и из чего пить. Именно поэтому в Париже так много компаний, которые многие годы превращают повседневное, обычное заваривание чая в роскошное времяпрепровождение. Чашка чая – это такое простое удовольствие. Однако марка Mariage Frères знает, как сделать из него неповторимое чувственное переживание. Фирменный магазин компании представляет собой не только чайный универмаг: пространство полностью посвящено завариванию горячего напитка и созданию великолепных чайников и чашек. Вокруг него даже сложилось виртуальное сообщество по поиску винтажных
97
предметов Mariage Frères, которые уже приобрели статус культовых. Причин подобного внимания к марке несколько. Прежде всего, в каждом предмете из изогнутого стекла или фарфора мандаринового или голубого оттенка воплощается неподражаемый уровень мастерства. Но, помимо прочего, Mariage Frères обладает удивительной историей, которая берет свое начало в 1660 году. Именно тогда Николас Марьяж совершил несколько путешествий на восток. В 1700-е Жан-Франсуа Марьяж из Лилля привозил во Францию чай, специи и другие экзотические товары и в то же время готовил своих сыновей перенять это дело. А в 1854 году была официально основана компания Mariage Frères. Эксперименты всегда были неотъемлемой частью философии компании, что выразилось в применении принципов гастрономического купажа к чайному вкусу. Именно этот чайный дом первым стал производить чай с ароматом шоколада, чайное желе и чайные свечи. В наши дни под маркой Mariage Frères работают большой универмаг и многочисленные салоны, а также выпускается чайная посуда из стекла и фарфора с глазурью. Разнообразие ассортимента по всем направлениям поражает:
здесь есть и чаши из покрытого платиной фарфора для японского чая, и расписные стеклянные чайники ручной работы, и чугунная ярко-розовая утварь, и пиалы с золотой эмалью, навевающей мысли о роскоши в духе Фаберже. В некоторых центрах дизайна, признаком профессионализма считаются современность и актуальность стиля. Но в Париже в центре внимания остается история. Когда наступает пора от чая перейти к чему-нибудь покрепче, парижские дизайнеры с готовностью преподносят великолепные бокалы. В 1886 году Рене Лалик, ювелир и стеклянных дел мастер, основал собственное дело, сосредоточившись на работе с хрусталем. èн был одним из лидеров парижского ар-нуво, поэтому покупая предметы Lalique для обеденного стола, вы приобретаете особую связь с историей искусства. Эксперименты Лалика со стеклом привели к появлению уникальной эстетики. èна проявилась в самых разных мотивах: вьющиеся локоны, головы лошадей, важные для ар-нуво природные сюжеты– все это появлялось в оформлении стеклянной утвари, вроде стеклянных пробок для декантеров, или в качестве самостоятельных элементов. Именно компании Lalique принадлежит авторство знаменитого талисмана Flying B для винтажных моделей Bentley. Артистический дух Парижа также проявляется в разнообразной продукции марки Lalique, будь то стеклянная посуда или декоративные и ювелирные украшения. Но именно столовый хрусталь передает самую суть ее стиля: элегантные бокалы для шампанского, яркие темно-красные чаши, вазы с лиственным орнаментом. В наши дни компанией Lalique управляет харизматичный Сильвио Денц, знаток вина и предприниматель международного уровня. Свою задачу он видит в поддержании мастерства на фирменном высоком уровне и одновременно расширение пределов возможного в дизайне домашней утвари. «Я думаю, естественным этапом развития стал переход от коллекционирования к владению, - рассказал он журналу Bentley. – Я всегда любил творения Рене Лалика, и в
98
моих планах – обращаться к его наследию и черпать вдохновение в его умении создавать не просто объекты, а целые интерьеры, причем в современном понимании. Мы хотим превратить Lalique во всемирный бренд». Будь то благородные, красиво сервированные чайные столы, или роскошные вечерние коктейли, - парижские эксперты всегда готовы предложить вам нечто изысканное. mariagefreres.com, lalique.com 60: All Change
photo: © CoNDÉ NASt ARChIVE/CoRBIS
Смена караула
степени с нетерпением ожидают перемен. В последнее время произошло два заметных, хоть и разных по характеру, назначения. И оба они сулят великолепные коллекции и активный весенний сезон во французской столице. Сначала появились новости, что итальянец Марко Занини, возглавлявший Rochas в период перерождения марки, возьмет в свои руки бразды правления Schiaparelli. Затем выяснилось, что всеобщий любимец, авангардный дизайнер Николя Гескьер станет креативным директором Louis Vuitton после ухода Марка Джейкобса. Занини и Гескьер работают в непохожих друг на друга творческих манерах, но их объединяет любовь к сдержанному дизайну и желание раздвигать пределы красоты и вкуса. Модный дом Schiaparelli, основанный Эльзой Скиапарелли, на протяжении нескольких десятилетий стоял на месте и не развивался. Однако в начале нулевых его приобрела компания Tod’s Group, принадлежащая Диего Делла Валле, и теперь Занини получит в свое распоряжение впечатляющий архив, в который ему предстоит погрузиться. Парижанка родом из Италии, Эльза Скиапарелли была одним из самых влиятельных кутюрье начала 20 века. Ее стиль был напрямую связан с эрой сюрреализма, благодаря постоянным творческим контактам с Сальвадором Дали, Жаном Кокто и Альберто Джакометти. Скиапарелли, которую называли Скиап, получила прекрасное образование и начала карьеру, создавая образы для себя. Только позднее появилась первая небольшая коллекция вязаной одежды. Известность дизайнеру принес остроумный декор костюмов, над которым
Едва ли что-то способно взволновать мир моды настолько же серьезно, как назначение нового креативного директора в крупном модном доме. С ним сразу же начинают связывать надежды, а обсуждения достигают точки кипения, поскольку поклонники дизайна, ритейлеры и модные обозреватели в равной globalblue.com
photo: pAtRICIA SChwoERER
Харриет Квик рассказывает о новых назначениях в двух крупных модных домах Парижа
99
иногда работал истинный мастер вышивки Франсуа Лесаж, и сюрреалистичные эффектные приемы, как, например, лобстер на платье кисти Сальвадора Дали (1937 год). Приковывающие внимание, провокационные модели Скиап во многом оказались шокирующими для мира моды того времени. Так что парфюм во флаконе цвета фуксии так и назвали - Shocking. Назначение Занини случилось весьма своевременно. Марка Schiaparelli покорила теперь уже новое поколение во время выставки 2012 года Impossible Conversations («Немыслимые творения») в Нью-Йоркском музее искусства Метрополитен. Эта экспозиция была создана совместно с Миуччей Прада - страстной обожательницей творчества Скиап. За время работы в Rochas Занини точно так же провоцировал и бросал вызов общественному вкусу через необычные сочетания цветов и экстраординарные ткани. Будучи итальянцем, он скромно утверждает, что у него есть «особая близость с модным домом Schiaparelli». Перед Николя Гескьером стоит аналогичная задача - вывести Louis Vuitton на новую ступень. Этот мощный модный дом был основан в Париже в конце 19 века как производитель дорожных кейсов. Марк Джейкобс придал модному дому остроумие и элегантность, а также впервые создал коллекцию готовой одежды. Парижские показы марки, масштабные и театрализованные, на фоне каруселей, эскалаторов, вокзалов, стали неотъемлемой частью модных недель. В то же время аксессуары с фирменной клеткой превратились в символ статуса во всем мире. Магазины Louis Vuitton открылись в самых отдаленных уголках мира, включая Улан Батор, столицу Монголии. Путешествия составляют самую суть этого бренда - как в прямом, так и в переносном смысле. Гескьер, воскресивший Balenciaga, вне всякого сомнения, сотворит чудо и с Louis Vuitton, перенаправив его потенциал в будущее. В конце концов, мода всегда черпает энергию из заново открытых прежних идей. schiaparelli.com, louisvuitton.com
90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте до 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными. 美文翻译
46: Out Of Africa 走出非洲 时尚本季驰骋到非洲原野上，Clare 探路
Coulson带您
时尚早在2014春夏发布之前就显露出它对蓝色原野 地平线的钟爱，Raf Simons的迪奥秋冬高定秀中就 打响了这股风潮的第一枪。比利时设计师用全新的 线条和优雅的巴黎日间礼服裙细节在部落风上大作 文章——明亮橙黄色紧身裙，深蓝、深红红和黑色
100
的宽大的部落领口，纯色蓬蓬裙混合条纹和方格， 再现出非洲马赛人的传统服饰风格。 这股风潮迅速蔓延，Stella Tennant 就在秋季 古根海姆国际晚宴上与Simons 合作展示了非洲风 的丝绸拼接和印花。在此之前的春夏发布就已经充 满了撒哈拉以南的风格：浓浓的大地色、大胆的色彩 映衬出东非的鲜艳妆容，慵懒拖地设计和非洲部落 的简洁和紧致裁剪相映成辉。 编辑和评论员们惊叹于时尚季节更替快如非洲 部落鼓点的速度。但是当Raf Simons , Alexander McQueen 设计师 Sarah Burton，纪梵希设计师 Riccardo Tisci和Céline设计师 Phoebe Philo 等 先锋派设计师一同发布的时候，这种时尚的鼓点更 会急剧加速，响彻天际。 这些设计师们不约而同地注入了民族风，甚至 有些不假思索。Phoebe Philo以力量见长，她设计 出的非洲风长裙，大胆夸张的粗线条印花给服饰 增添层次感，故意做旧的印花围巾塑造出非洲式高 领。 R icc a rdo Tisc i 成就了高定大师 M ad a me Grès, 她精致的拖拽紧身裙和丝绸礼服裙是纪梵希 春夏的精髓，同时整场秀又充满了非洲色彩：从 Pat McGrath镶满水晶的“武士面具”到拖地的各种接近 大地色的真丝裙，到斑驳的真皮披肩。 这个系列是日本和非洲两种文化的对撞。Tisci 解释道： “我和Grès女士在创作折叠、裙摆和色彩的 时候联想到了非洲浪漫的一面——但又带有日本的 优雅和脆弱。”或许这样的组合并不常见，但Tisci皮 带配裙子的做法大获全胜。他甚至没有用代表性的 恨天高的鞋子，取而代之的是粗带子平底凉鞋。 对于很多设计师来说非洲风可以上溯到 20 世 纪初，它影响了如毕加索和蒙德里安等一大批艺 术家。”我不想全盘效仿一个时代” ，亚历山大麦昆 设计师Sarah Burton说。然而她编织的主题却很 明显：民族服饰、现代图形艺术以及麦昆传统的设 计。Burton 把鳄鱼皮切割成胸衣，用复杂的几何图 形拼制出裙摆，营造出层叠感很强的羽毛裙子。 如果很多本季的非洲风都带有强烈的现代意 味的话，Moncler 的自然之旅就显得更加轻盈和洒 脱——豹子、长颈鹿、蛇皮、羽毛和卡其色配饰、狩 猎夹克形成鲜明对比。亚历山大麦昆曾说他的第一 次关于非洲的灵感来自于《国家地理杂志》，他设计 出美妙的系列源于广袤的大地和自然风光，并给予 成功地勾画。春季，这种精神被流传到新一代地前 瞻设计师作品中。 诚然异域文化在时尚历史上从未如此通过服饰 来真实表达，Dries Van Noten 的毛球边绣花上衣 让人联想到北非伯伯尔地毯，与华伦天奴开场精致 绝伦的编织斗篷、外套和连衣裙不谋而合。这一切都 是时尚梦境和创意神游的真实再现。 globalblue.com
54: Top Table 座上宾 无论是完美陶瓷还是精妙玻璃器皿，巴黎的工匠制 作出餐桌摆设一样美轮美奂，Stephen Doig报道 巴黎是精致手工艺的故乡；旺多姆广场的奢华珠宝 和里沃利街雅致时装就是明证。然而家居也是法国 人优雅品味的体现，从盛放酒水的容器乃至手握的 方式。巴黎的手工艺之巧夺天工能将倒茶这种稀松 平常的动作转变为一门艺术。 喝茶再平常不过，Mariage Frères却将其设计 成一种愉悦的初体验。Mariage Frères不仅是一 个简单的茶室，它是巴黎著名老牌手工茶叶茶具制 造商，粉丝甚至设立了一个专门网站讨论 Mariage Frères的复古设计。我们不禁问为什么？除了精美的 茶具以外，玻璃器皿，深橘色瓷器和海蓝色工艺品烧 制出品牌无双的历史。 M a r i a ge 家族 从 16 6 0 年 就开始 运营茶业， 始 于 N icol a s M a r i a ge 前往 东方的旅行。1770 年代，Jean - François Mariage 继续出售茶叶、 香 料 等 舶 来 品 ，同 时 锻 炼 他 的 儿 子 们 继 承 家 业。Mariage Frères 茶叶公司成立于1854 年，实 验是它的经营理念，它将星级美食渗透到茶道当 中，并且率先将茶融合进巧克力、果冻和蜡烛。如 今Mariage Frères不仅推出茶叶和品茶沙龙，它还 生产鲜亮的陶瓷和玻璃茶具。其种类之繁多能和 Mariage Frères出产的茶叶数量媲美，包括富有 东方神韵的镀铂金抹茶碗，手工吹制的精美玻璃茶 壶，艳粉色铸铁壶以及与Fabergé风绝配的金色瓷 釉壶。 在一些家居设 计中，现代 风 格和先 锋品味 是 卓 越 的体 现，但在巴黎，历史风韵 犹 存。茶 余 饭 后，美酒上演的时光，巴黎设 计师们无一 例外地 加以布置雕琢。1886 年，玻璃专家兼珠宝设计师 René Lalique将将目光转移向专业水晶。他是巴黎 新艺术革命的先锋，买一件餐桌上的水晶器皿好比 购进了一段艺术史。Lalique 的吹制玻璃工艺引领 类一类新的美学风格，从烟色玻璃瓶的瓶塞就能看 出，无论是螺旋贝壳还是马头，自然和动物等新艺术 元素被栩栩如生地注入器皿和工艺品种。Lalique 还设计出了宾利车头上著名的展翅飞翔B形车徽。 无论是装饰工艺还是珠宝，巴黎文艺风渗透在 Lalique 的产品当中。但是归根结底，水晶器皿当 属品牌的精髓，从优雅、传统的高脚杯到装饰有树 叶形状的深红色餐具。如今Lalique由卓越的品酒 师和国际集团总裁 Silvio Denz 所经营，他保有了 Lalique 传统的工艺并不停地挑战创新品牌传统设 计。 “我想从收藏到拥有是一个很自然的过程” ，他告 诉宾利汽车杂志， “我钟爱René Lalique的设计，我
101
想使用一种现代创新的方式把这种灵感渗透到整 个家居内饰当中，把 Lalique打造成一个国际家居品 牌。”从优美雅致的茶几到炫彩迷离的鸡尾酒会，巴 黎的手工艺人可谓面面俱到。 mariagefreres.com, lalique.com
里。Ghesquière，这个曾经拯救类巴黎世家的设计 师，无疑会将他的魔法流传到路易威登，给品牌的未 来注入能量。时尚，说到底，是一种再造的魔力。 schiaparelli.com, louisvuitton.com
60: All Change
90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
焕然一新
畅购全球，尊享退税
巴黎两家最负盛名的时装屋本季迎来新任创意总 监，Harriet Quick为您报道
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。
在粉丝们、零售商和媒体如火如荼的炒作下，没有什 么比大品牌更换时尚设计师更加激动人心的了。两 条不约而同的新闻让时尚之都如春日一般悸动。 首先是低调的意大利设计师Marco Zanini，他 曾经带动了Rochas的复苏，即将掌舵Schiaparelli； 其次是时尚先锋设计师 Nicolas Ghesquière即将继 Marc Jacobs 担任路易威登的设计师的职位。两人 拥有迥异的风格但他们的设计都大胆挑战传统美学 和品味。 由Elsa Schiaparelli创建的品牌Schiaparelli在 沉睡了几十年后于 90 年代初被 Diego Della Valle 掌管的 Tod ’s 收购。Zanini 接过的是一部鲜活的 历史和一叠可观的文献。意大利出生、巴黎长大的 Elsa Schiapprelli是20世纪初最具影响力的高定大 师之一，她的灵感来自于超现实主义大师达利，Jean Cocteau和Alberto Giacometti。受高等教育的她 在业内被人亲切地称为 Schiap，她从为自己设计 的第一个针织系列开始。精巧的细节构思由刺绣大 师 François Lesage 付诸于定制西装之上，还有她 1937年设计，由达利亲自绘制的经典龙虾晚礼服。 Schiap大胆抢眼的设计轰动一时，她所设计的 嫣红瓶身的香水就被命名为“惊叹”。Zanini的任职 正是时候。就在不久前的2012年，Miuccia Prada 还与Schiaparelli合作在纽约大都市艺术画廊举办 了一场名为“不可能对话”的展出，纪念Schiap的作 品。Zanini为Rocha期间使用奇异色彩搭配精美的 面料，创作过同样充满灵性和革新作品。作为一个意 大利人，他谦虚地承认自己是Schiaparelli的“忠实 粉丝”。 Nicolas Ghesquière来到路易威登，即将把 这个19 世纪的巴黎行李箱品牌提升到一个新的台 阶。Marc Jacobs将他的智慧、优雅和风格注入品 牌，创造出了它第一个成衣系列。巴黎的路易威登 秀宏大且充满戏剧想像力（马车、电梯、火车站同 台亮相），一度成为时装周的热门话题，而经典格 纹帆布的配饰则已是全球公认的地位和身份的象 征。路易威登店遍布世界各个角落，远及蒙古首都 乌兰巴托。旅行名副其实地流淌在路易威登的血液
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global B lue ）获得购物退税，您怎能错 过？您要 做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：
1. 消费购物 无 论 您 在 哪里消 费，请 索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表 格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客 服柜台领取您的退税款。 联系方式：
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€175.01并且节约高达购买价格12%的税。 请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除 管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将 以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。
日本語翻訳 46: Out Of Africa アフリカの風
今シーズン、ファッションは遥かなる地へ。クレア・ コールソンがその旅路を記す。 ファッションが遥かなる青き地平線へ向かう最初 の兆しが見えたのは、2014年春夏のショーが始ま るずっと前だった。厳密に言えば、ラフ・シモンズ によるクリスチャン・ディオールの秋冬クチュール
102
ショーが半ばに差し掛かった頃だ。ベルギー人デ ザイナーのシモンズは、ニュールック風のシルエッ トや優雅なパリジャンのデイドレスから離れ、部 族衣装的な要素を実に巧妙に取り入れたデザイン をいくつか披露した。オレンジ、コバルトブルー、レ ッド、ブラックの光沢あるシースドレスに部族風の 幅広の首飾り、アフリカのマサイ族の伝統衣装を 思わせるチェックとストライプを複雑にミックスし たシアーなチュール地のドレスなどだ。 このアフリカンムードはまもなく人の心をつか む。昨秋のグッゲンハイム美術館インターナショ ナルガラにシモンズと共に現れたステラ・テナント は、シルクとプリントを組み合わせたアフリカ風の ドレープドレスに身を包んでいた。それに先立つ 春夏コレクションでも、深みある素朴な色合い、 東アフリカの色鮮やかなコスチュームを彷彿とさせ る大胆なプリント、器用に折り重ねたりひだを付け たりした民族衣装がヒントになっていることが明 らかなドレープなど、サハラ以南アフリカ風のデザ インが多々見られた。 ファッションがなぜ、どのようにして同じ（部 族の）太鼓のリズムに合わせて進むのか。それは、 エディターや批評家が毎シーズン首を傾げる謎 だ。ただ、ラフ・シモンズ、サラ・バートン（アレキサ ンダー・マックイーン）、リカルド・ティッシ（ジバン シィ）、フィービー・フィロ（セリーヌ）といった影響 力の大きな独自路線のデザイナーが揃って「旅」 に出たとなると、そのニュースはあらゆるレベルの ファッションに波紋を広げずにはおかない。これ らのデザイナーは、誰一人明言はしなかったもの の、何世紀も昔から受け継がれた民族衣装をイン スピレーションにしたことは間違いない。フィービ ー・フィロの場合、テーマは「溢れるパワー、力強 さ」。プリントのトップにプリーツの入ったロングの 巻きスカートでアフリカの雰囲気を加えた他、幅 広ブラシで描いた躍動感あるプリントをドレープ やレイヤードのルックスに用い、ほつれ感を出した プリントのスカーフを首の高い位置に結んだ。 リカルド・ティッシは、ドレープが美しいジャ ージーやシルクのロングドレスで有名なクチュリ エ、 マダム・グレをジバンシィ春夏コレクションのイ ンスピレーションとして挙げたかもしれないが、彼 のショーは、パット・マグラスがクリスタルで丹念 に施した「戦士の仮面」といい、深いカーキ、タバ コ、テラコッタ、 くすんだオレンジといった土臭い色 合いのジャージーのドレープドレスといい、目打ち したレザーのショールといい、アフリカの影響があ ちこちに見られた。 「このコレクションは日本とアフリカの二つの 文化がぶつかって生まれたもの」と、ティッシは説 globalblue.com
明している。 「マダム・グレのプリーツやドレープ と、アフリカの浪漫を感じさせる色合いを使いな がら、日本の優雅さやはかなさを混ぜ合わせまし た。」ちょっと変わった組み合わせかもしれない が、ティッシはこの文化の衝突を、流れるようなド レスに馬具用の革の締めひもを合わせて見事に 表現してみせた。お馴染みのスカイスクレーパーヒ ールも今回は控え、代わりに平らでがっちりした 紐付きサンダルを使った。 多くのデザイナーがアフリカの影響に20世紀 初頭のモダニズムアートを織り交ぜている。アフリ カ文化がピカソやモンドリアンといった芸術家や デザイナーにインスピレーションを与えた時代だ。 サラ・バートンは刺激的なマックイーンのショーを 終えた後に「一つの時代やテーマにあまり縛られ たくなかった」とコメントしたが、それでも、コレク ションに巧みに織り込まれたテーマははっきりし ていた。部族衣装とグラフィックなモダニズムアー ト、そしてやはり、本来のマックイーンらしさだ。バ ートンは、部族衣装の胸当てをワニ革で作り、複 雑な幾何学図形のカットワークをあしらったスカ ートや、鮮やかな羽根を層状に重ねた目を見張る ようなドレスを創作した。 今シーズンのコレクションに見られるアフリカ 色の多くが超モダンなマッシュアップだとすると、 モンクレールの作品は遥かに明るく、文字通りア フリカ大陸へひとっ跳びの感がある。ヒョウ柄、キ リン柄、ヘビ柄はもちろん、ヒョウ柄にエキゾチッ クな羽根を合わせたりトリミングに使ったりして、 カーキのセパレーツやサファリジャケットとのコン トラストを効かせた。アレキサンダー・マックイー ンがかつて、インスピレーションの源としてまず見 るのが「ナショナル・ジオグラフィック」誌だと言っ ていたことがあるが、彼の遺した素晴らしいコレ クションが幾多の大陸や文化に根ざしていたこと が、それを如実に物語っている。この春、その彼の 精神は生き続け、それを新たに取り入れた先見性 あるデザイナーは数多い。 だが、文化の衝突を解釈して現実的で着やす い服にする妙手といえば、やはりファッションの浪 漫派だ。ドリス・ヴァン・ノッテンのショーでは、タ ペストリーに発想を得たポンポンのトリミング付き のトップが北アフリカのベルベル人のラグを思わ せた。ヴァレンティノのショーの幕開けに登場した この上なく美しい刺繍入りケープとコート、ドレス にも、北アフリカに足を踏み入れたような雰囲気 が漂っていた。まさにファッションの夢の装い。ク リエイティブな旅心が形となって目の前に現れた 瞬間だ。
103
54: Top Table 食卓の華
完璧な磁器から魅惑的なガラス製品まで、パリの 職人は見事な技で作られた製品を食卓に提供し ている。スティーヴン・ドイグがレポートする。 パリは精巧な職人技の本場。そのことは、高級感 あふれるヴァンドーム広場の店舗やリヴォリ通り のエレガントなファッションショップを見れば一目 瞭然だ。実はホームウェアもその好例で、飲み物 の選び方から注ぎ方まで、生活のあらゆる面を風 雅で気品あるものにするフランス人の能力を表し ている。パリには、ごくありふれた行為（お茶を注 ぐなど）をシックの極みに変える老舗ブランドが ふんだんにある。 一杯のお茶は単純な楽しみだが、それがマリ アージュ・フレールでは快感体験になる。同店は 単なる紅茶専門店ではなく、お茶を淹れることと 美しいティーポットやカップを作ることに情熱を傾 けるパリ伝統のブランドだ。マリアージュ・フレー ルのヴィンテージデザインは、手に入れたいという ファンのためのオンラインコミュニティがあるほど で、一種の高級カルト商品になっている。その人気 の秘密は？ティーポット（波打つガラス、太陽のよ うなミカン色や明るい水色の磁器などがある）に 凝らされた技巧のレベルはもちろんだが、このブラ ンドには比類ない歴史がある。 マリアージュ一族は、ニコラ・マリアージュが 東方へ何度か航海した1660年頃から続く茶商 人。1700年代には、リールのジャン・フランソワ・ マリアージュが茶とスパイス、その他商品の輸入 業を変わらず営み、息子たちにも家業を仕込ん だ。そして1854年にマリアージュ・フレール・ティ ーカンパニーが設立される。以来実験をいつも企 業理念の一部としてきた同社は、美食学の原理を お茶にも適用する。茶風味のチョコレートやティ ーゼリー、ティーキャンドルをはじめて作ったブラ ンドであり、現在は紅茶専門店とマリアージュ・フ レール・ティーサロンの他に、施釉磁器やガラス 製の茶器の生産も行っている。マリアージュ・フレ ールが提供する茶器は茶葉と同様に多様で、東 洋からインスピレーションを得たプラチナ釉磁器 の抹茶茶椀、華麗な手吹きガラスのティーポット、 ショッキングピンクの鉄瓶、ファベルジェスタイル の壮麗さを醸す贅沢な金釉のポットなどがある。 デザインの都の中には、近代的で前衛的なの が卓越の印というところもあるが、パリではやはり 歴史が欠かせない。ティータイムとは打って変わっ て、もう少し強いものが欲しい時のグラスも、パリ
のデザイナーはカバーしている。宝飾デザイナー でガラスのエキスパート、ルネ・ラリックが巧妙な クリスタル製品を主とした事業を立ち上げたのは 1886年のこと。彼はパリのアールヌーボー芸術運 動の中心的存在だったため、食卓用にラリッククリ スタルを買うことは芸術史とのつながりを買うこと になる。ラリックは吹きガラスの技法をあれこれ試 した末に、同ブランドに特徴的な独特の美感を生 み出した。それは、曇りガラスのデカンタストッパ ー、渦巻く蔓や馬頭の形、動物や自然のモチーフ （アールヌーボー様式の主要素）に見られる。いず れも、ガラス製品に取り入れられたり独立した装 飾品としてデザインされたものだ。また、ヴィンテ ージのベントレー車に付いている「フライングB」と いう有名なカーマスコットを作ったのも同社だ。 ガラス製品から装飾品、宝飾品に至るまで、 ラリックで生産する幅広い商品には、パリの職人 魂も顕著に表れている。その中でブランドの核を 成すのはおそらく、優雅な伝統的脚付きシャンペ ングラスから葉のモチーフで飾られた鮮やかな深 紅のボウルまで幅広いクリスタル食器だ。現在、 ラリックのオーナーはワイン通で国際的実業家の シルヴィオ・デンツだが、彼はデザインの境界を押 し広げつつ同社の職人技を守っていくことを自分 の責任としている。 「コレクターからオーナーへと いうのは自然な流れだったと思う」とベントレー誌 に語ったデンツは、 「ルネ・ラリックの作品が好き で、単に物を作るだけでなくインテリア全体をモ ダンで斬新な形で創り出した彼の創作からインス ピレーションを得ていく考えで、ラリックを世界的 なライフスタイルブランドにしたいと思っている」と いう。洗練された美しい茶器が並ぶ茶会から、カ クテルグラスを傾けながらの魅惑的な夜会まで、 パリ有数の工芸品ブランドは場面を問わない。 mariagefreres.com、lalique.com 60: All Change 変化は進化 パリで最も由緒あるファションハウスのうち二社が今シー ズン、新しいクリエイティブ・ディレクターを迎え入れた。 ハリエット・クイックが紹介する。 ファッション界にとって、ビッグブランドでの新クリエイ ティブ・ディレクター任命ほどエキサイティングなことはな い。何が起こるか、デザイン通や小売業者、 マスコミが揃っ て予想する中、期待は高まり興奮が熱狂の域に達する。 最近話題の二社の任命は全く異なるデザイナーの起用だ が、いずれも素晴らしいコレクションを見せてくれることは 間違いなく、パリの春シーズンは話題が沸騰しそうだ。先 に入って来たのは、クリエイティブ・ディレクターとしてロ
104
シャス復活の先頭に立った静かな語り口のイタリア人マル コ・ザニーニが、スキャパレリの舵をとることになったとい うニュース。続いて、ファッション界きっての前衛デザイナ ー、ニコラ・ゲスキエールがマーク・ジェイコブスの後を 受けてルイ・ヴィトンのクリエイティブ・ディレクターに就 任することが発表された。ザニーニとゲスキエールはまる で違う審美感の持ち主だが、精密なデザインを好み、美 しさとスタイルの境界を押し広げようとする点は共通して いる。 スキャパレリはエルザ・スキャパレリが設立したブラ ンドで、数十年にわたり休眠状態にあったが、2000年代 の始めにディエゴ・デッラ・ヴァッレのトッズグループが買 収した。 ザニーニは同ブランドの鮮やかな歴史と印象的な 過去資料の中にどっぷり身を置くことになる。イタリア に生まれパリに住んだデザイナー、エルザ・スキャパレリ は、20世紀初頭に最も大きな影響力を持っていたクチュ リエの一人で、サルヴァドール・ダリ、ジャン・コクトー、ア ルベルト・ジャコメッティなど、この時代を代表するシュー ルレアリズムの芸術家とユニークなコラボレーション関係 を築いた。高い教育を受けたスキャパレリ（通称スキャッ プ）のキャリアは自分の衣装を作ることから始まり、続い て小さなニットコレクションを制作した。彼女はまもなく、 テイラードスーツに付けたウィットの効いた飾り（刺繍の 巨匠フランソワ・ルサージュの手によるものもあった）や、 ダリが描いたロブスタードレス（1937年）のようなシュー ルなトロンプ・ルイユ（騙し絵）効果で知られるようにな る。スキャップの人目を引く挑戦的なデザインは当時の常 識を覆すもの。鮮やかな紫ピンクの容器に入ったスキャパ レリの香水は、 「ショッキング」と名付けられた。 ザニーニの任命はタイムリーだ。2012年にニューヨ ークメトロポリタン美術館の「不可能な会話」展が、スキ ャパレリとスキャップ作品の大ファンであるミウッチャ・プ ラダとのコラボレーションで開催され、新世代のファンが できているからだ。ロシャス時代のザニーニも、型破りの カラースキームと変わった生地を好んで使い、感情を刺 激し審美眼に挑んできた。その彼はイタリア人としてスキ ャパレリには「特別の愛着がある」と謙虚に語っている。 一方、ルイ・ヴィトンのニコラ・ゲスキエールは、19世 紀末にパリでトランクメーカーとして創業した強力なブラ ンドを新たなレベルへ高めることが任務だ。ヴィトンは、 マーク・ジェイコブスがウィットとエレガンス、スタイルを 注入し、初の既製服コレクションを制作した。パリで行わ れたルイ・ヴィトンのショーは、壮大で想像力に満ちた演 劇仕立て（回転木馬、エスカレーター、駅をメインに細部 まで考え尽くされたセット）でファッションウィークの花 形となり、同ブランドのダミエチェックキャンバスをモチ ーフにした小物類は世界中でステータスシンボルになっ ている。ルイ・ヴィトンは、モンゴルの首都ウランバートル など遥か遠い国々にも店舗をオープンしている。旅はル globalblue.com
イ・ヴィトンのDNAに内在し、空想的にも文字通りにも解 釈できる。バレンシアガを見事に復活させたゲスキエー ルは、ルイ・ヴィトンでもその手腕を発揮し、未来に向け て同ブランドの魅力を新たにするに違いない。つまるとこ ろ、ファッションは再発明の力なのだから。
schiaparelli.com、louisvuitton.com
90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に
グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご 利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピン グ街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物 がお得になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブ ルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用く ださい。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加 盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に 「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あと は、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1.お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの 免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取っ てください。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに 承認印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルー のカスタマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けま す。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €175.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高12％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手 数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご 了承ください。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な 場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフ ォームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場合 があります。
to put a price on. we have created the Deep Blue Programme in partnership with the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, to preserve ocean environments in the Maldives and the Cook islands, home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species. To ďŹ nd out more visit globalblue.com/oceans
106
Postcard
LANVIN The logo at Lanvin, one of Paris’s most prestigious fashion houses, is instantly recognisable, but few people know the story of its origins. Said to be the oldest fashion house in Paris, the company began when Jeanne Lanvin opened a millinery boutique in 1889, on the corner of the city’s rue Boissy d’Anglas and rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. When Lanvin’s daughter Marguerite was born in 1897, the designer began to create clothing for her daughter. Soon enough, after admiring Marguerite’s outfts, grown women began to ask Lanvin to design garments for them. She quickly became known for her exquisite couture womenswear and in 1909 she joined the globalblue.com
exclusive Syndicat de la Couture, cementing her reputation as one of Paris’s foremost couturiers. This image was taken in 1907 when Lanvin and her daughter attended a costume ball, wearing matching distinctively shaped hats. It was Lanvin herself who had the idea of using an image to represent her company, a revolutionary idea at the time, and in 1923 illustrator Paul Iribe provided a drawing of the photograph for that purpose. This year, Lanvin celebrates its 125th anniversary and, under the creative direction of Alber Elbaz, remains one of the most sought-after luxury fashion brands in the world; Jeanne Lanvin’s logo still adorns every creation. irs Lanvin, 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4471 3173, lanvin.com * for map go to page 83
BUCHERER THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES
12, boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris | bucherer.com
WATCHES DIAMANTS JEWELRY Rolex · Baume & Mercier · Blancpain · B Swiss · Carl F. Bucherer · Chopard · Girard-Perregaux IWC · Jaeger-LeCoultre · A. Lange & Söhne · Longines · Mido · Montblanc · Oris · Ofcine Panerai · Piaget Rado · Roger Dubuis · Tissot · Tudor · Vacheron Constantin · Van Cleef & Arpels · Zenith
©T&CO. 2014
6, RUE DE LA PAIX, PARIS 2 È M E PRINTEMPS DU LUXE, PARIS 9 È M E GALERIES LAFAYETTE JOAILLERIE, PARIS 9 È M E 01 40 20 20 20 6, AVENUE DE VERDUN, 06000 NICE 04 89 14 25 25 OPENING SOON: 62, AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES, PARIS 8 È M E TIFFANY.COM