GlobeRovers Magazine - July 2019

GlobeRovers

Feature Article

10 Argentina - The Long Way Down

Argentina is a world in one. A country that offers rose-red deserts, snow-capped mountains, massive glaciers, rugged landscapes, vast plains, great food and wine, and the best tango dancing in the world. We travel all the way from the Bolivian border at the northern tip of Argentina down to Ushuaia, the southernmost town in the world. Along the way we explore the world renowned Iguazú Falls, we dance the tango in the nation’s charming capital, we crawl close to the wildlife of Peninsula Valdés, and walk on glaciers. Viva! Argentina.

Malaysia’s Sabah on Borneo Island

Malaysia’s untamed state of Sabah is located on Borneo Island, home to the proboscis monkeys and orangutans, as well as tiny paradise islands.

Cyprus - A Divided Island

e Republic of Cyprus with its predominantly Greek inhabitants lies south of the Turkish controlled North Cyprus. We explore the Republic.

Mauritius - Idyllic Indian Ocean Island

Located west of Madagascar, Mauritius is known for its turquoise seas, black volcanic rocks, palm trees, sugar cane elds and craggy mountain peaks.

Peru’s Sacred Valley

is fertile river valley, a narrow strip of land in the Peruvian Andes, has a long history and is a place of eerie natural beauty and a rich, colourful culture.

A Naga New Year Festival, Nagaland

In the remote northwest of Myanmar (Burma) live the Naga people. Every mid-January they come together for a colourful 3-day New Year’s festival.

Boating Guilin to Yangshou, China

A karst landscape dominates the course of the slow owing Li River and its many tributaries that drain the mountenous area from Guilin to Yangshuo.

SPECIAL FEATURES

Sensible Travel Gear

Tasty Traveller’s Treats

Postcards to Mommy

CONTRIBUTIONS

Travel Ethics

Cruising with Crocodiles in Australia

Canada’s Best Hidden Train Journey

Volunteering Q&A

Travellers in the Spotlight

Book Reviews

TOP LISTS

10 Great Experiences in Argentina

10 Highlights of Cyprus

9 Must-do’s in South America

IN THE NEXT ISSUE Japan’s Winter Wonderland

e winter season in Japan is December through March. is is a time of incredibly beautiful snow-covered landscapes, steam-engulfed hot springs, and many winter acitivities for the active adventurers. A beautiful time to visit Japan.

Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, Beagle Channel, Ushuaia, Argentina

ARTICLES + PHOTOS ESSAYS

THE FRONT COVER:

Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost”. J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973), an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this 13th issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment.

Globerovers Magazine

is currently a biannual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe to the intrepid traveller.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A. and Europe

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Director - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Proofreaders - Marion Halliday

Janet-Lynn Vorster

Advertising - Lizzy Chitlom

Distribution - Leon Ringwell

FOLLOW US: www.globerovers-magazine.com www.globerovers.com

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Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina Copyright

CONTACT US: editor@globerovers.com

e feature destination is Argentina—truly a world in one! We travel from the far north on the border with Bolivia all the way down south to Ushuaia, the gateway to the Antarctic Peninsula. Along the way, we explore rusty-red valleys, spectacular waterfalls, the world’s tango capital, wildlife hotspots, glaciers, national parks, snow-covered mountains, the world’s southernmost town, and a lot more.

We drive around the island of Cyprus in the Mediterranean Sea and Mauritius Island in the southern Indian Ocean, and then enjoy a colourful New Year Festival with the Naga people in the remote Nagaland region of Myanmar.

Photo Essays include the proboscis monkeys and orangutans in Malaysia’s Sabah State on Borneo Island, Peru’s Sacred Valley, and a boat trip down the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo in China.

We also have our usual contributions from Canada and Australia, a Q&A about volunteering, and a 5-member panel o ering their opinions about travel ethics.

A special thank you to our sponsors as well as all our wonderful contributors who we introduce on page 5.

Visit our website and social media. For easy access, scan the QR codes on page 7.

Feedback to editor@globerovers.com.

I travel so you can see the world!

Peter Steyn, PhD Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

THE FRONT COVER Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno Glacier in Patagonia, southern Argentina, is one of the largest, most impressive, and most accessible glaciers. The glacier’s front-face is 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) wide with an average height of 74 metres (240 ft) above the surface of Lake Argentino.

CONTRIBUTORS

All words and photos by Peter Steyn, except where otherwise indicated. A very special thank you to our awesome contributors in this issue. Without you, Globerovers Magazine just wouldn’t be the same!

Janet-Lynn Vorster, Cape Town, South Africa (page 68)

Janet is a numerologist by profession, and journalist, editor and photographer by hobby. She is the proud mother of three grown children and granny to three grandchildren. Janet is the Southern African editor for Globerovers Magazine.

Marion Halliday, Adelaide, South Australia (page 118)

Marion is “Red Nomad OZ”, author, blogger and Aussie traveller who loves discovering naturebased attractions and activities – and scenic loos – all over Australia. Her Aussie travel blog and published book “Aussie Loos with Views” provide inspiration for other Aussie explorers.

Yrene Dee, Lumby, BC, Canada (Page 136)

Yrene is the founder of BackcountryCanadaTravel.com. She was born in Switzerland, lived and worked on different continents and travelled the world before she settled in Canada. She is an entrepreneur, wilderness nut, and animal lover who prefers off-the-beaten-track places.

Claire Bennett, Kathmandu, Nepal (page 142)

Claire lives and works in Kathmandu, Nepal, and freelances as a trainer and consultant. She is passionate about global education, ethical travel and ensuring good intentions are put to good use. She is co-author of Learning Service: The Essential Guide to Volunteering Abroad.

Matt Long, Washington DC, USA (Page 148)

Matt is an experiential luxury traveller who shares his adventures with thousands of readers every day through his award winning site LandLopers.com. He has been to more than 95 countries and all 7 continents and is also the host of the weekly Explore the World Travel Podcast.

Linda Ballou, Los Angeles, CA, USA (page 152)

Adventure travel writer, Linda has published a collection of travel essays, including Wai-nani, A Voice From Old Hawai’i, The Cowgirl Jumped Over The Moon, Lost Angel Walkabout, and her latest book: Lost Angel Walkabout-One Traveler’s Tales. www.LindaBallouAuthor.com

Mike and Anne Howard, USA (page 154)

Mike & Ann Howard at HoneyTrek.com are the authors of their couples’ adventure travel book, “Ultimate Journeys for Two”. Known as the world’s longest honeymooners—seven years and counting—they are constantly travelling and exploring the world.

Travel Ethics Panel (page 94)

Thank you to the travel bloggers and ethics experts on our Travel Ethics Panel who were brave enough to truly speak their minds. Marion Halliday (Australia), Claire Bennett (Nepal), Matt Long (USA), Lauren Yakiwchuk (Canada), and Christine Dutaut (UK).

The Globerovers‛ World

Globerovers Magazine was created by Peter Steyn, an avid explorer who is constantly in search of the edge of the world. He will always hike the extra mile or ten to get as far off the beaten track as he can.

It is his mission to discover and present the most exciting destinations for intrepid travellers. He has visited 122 countries (including territories: Greenland, Hong Kong, Macau) and is poised to explore Africa & the Pacific Islands in the near future. Peter’s home is wherever he lays down his cameras.

Afghanistan

Albania

Andorra

Argentina

Armenia

Australia

Austria

Azerbaijan

Bahrain

Bangladesh

Belarus

Belgium

Belize

Bolivia

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Brazil

Brunei

Bulgaria

Cambodia

Canada

Chile

China

Colombia

Costa Rica

Croatia

Cuba

Cyprus

Czech Rep.

Denmark

Ecuador

Egypt

El Salvador

Estonia

Finland

France

Georgia

Germany

Greece

Greenland

Guatemala

Honduras

Hong Kong

Hungary

Iceland

India

Indonesia

Iran

Ireland

Israel

Italy

Japan

Jordan

Kazakhstan

Kosovo

Kyrgyzstan

Laos

Latvia

Lebanon

Lesotho

Liechtenstein

Lithuania

Luxembourg

Macau

Macedonia

Malaysia

Maldives

Malta

Mauritius

Mexico

Moldova

Monaco

Montenegro

Morocco

Myanmar / Burma

Namibia

Nepal

Netherlands

New Zealand

Nicaragua

North Korea

Norway

Oman

Pakistan

Panama

Papua New Guinea

Paraguay

Peru

Philippines

Poland

Portugal

Romania

Russia

San Marino

Serbia

Singapore

Slovakia

Slovenia

South Africa

South Korea

Spain

Sri Lanka

Swaziland

Sweden

Switzerland

Syria

Taiwan

Tajikistan

Thailand

Timor Leste (East Timor)

Turkey

Ukraine

United Arab Emirates

United Kingdom

United States

Uruguay

Uzbekistan

Vanuatu

Vatican

Vietnam

Yemen

Zambia

Zimbabwe

122 and counting..

Argentina

While the South American llama is a relative of the camel, it does not have a hump and its most closely related cousins are the alpacas, guanacos, and the vicuñas. The native people of South America have used llamas as pack animals for centuries. The guanacos and vicuñas are less likely to be domesticated but are raised for meat and their very fne wool.

The Long Way Down Argentina

From north to south it is a long way down but what a pleasant country to get lost in any direction. Come along as we explore the wildlife, deserts, glaciers, mountains, coastline, cities, and more!

Thinking about Argentina, you may get visions of large stadiums packed with chanting football fans. You also may think of Evita Perón, or rugged snow-capped mountains, or even large chunks of BBQ’d steaks and tango dancing. Argentina is all of this, and a lot more.

From the snow-capped Andes Mountain Range in the west and the red-rock deserts in the north to the swampy Iberá Provincial Reserve to the east and the Patagonian glaciers to the south, it seems like Argentina has it all.

cup of “mate” (pronounced mah-tay), a ca einerich drink made from the chopped dried leaves of “yerba mate” soaked in boiling water. Served in a small metal-rimmed hollow calabash gourd and sipped through a metal straw, the drink and straw are shared among several people. is is a country where people dance the tango on the cobbled streets before breakfast!

Argentina is one of the most diverse and most pristine places on planet earth. Unquestionably.

Enjoy some of the best BBQ’s in the world, known as “asado” cooked on a grill, or “parrilla”, while sipping on a Malbec wine from the Mendoza wine region. All of this enjoyment while watching impromptu tango dancing on the cobbled streets of San Telmo in Buenos Aires.

You might already be thinking about taking a week or two to explore this amazing country. e problem is, Argentina is far away from much of the world, and distances within the country are vast. As a starter, the far north to the far south stretches over 5,000 kilometres (3,100 mi).

Once you make it here, you’d better plan on spending at least four weeks, and without a doubt when you leave, you will promise yourself to be back soon with another four weeks or more.

Argentina is a lot more than mountains, glaciers, deserts, waterfalls and wildlife. e country’s best asset is its people, and you will realize it the moment you arrive.

is is a place where family, friends, and even colleagues have a ritual based on sharing a

Argentina is also the birthplace of Eva (Evita) Perón, the First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her death (aged 33) in 1952 from cervical cancer. Che Guevara, one of the most famous revolutionaries who assisted Fidel Castro to win back Cuba in 1959, was born in Rosario, Santa Fe province. Diego Maradona and Lionel Messi, two of the best footballers in the world, are also from Argentina.

Let’s take the long way down to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost town, and gateway to Antarctica. While we can’t visit the entire country, we will explore some of the most recommended destinations.

Starting from La Quiaca on the Bolivian border, we travel south to the red mud-brick village of Humahuaca. From here we travel farther south to Salta before we head east to the spectacular Iguazú Falls on the tri-junction of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. Buenos Aires is next before heading south to the wildlife at Patagonia’s Peninsula Valdés. Further south, we visit some of the world’s most impressive glaciers in the Los Glaciares National Park before reaching our nal destination at Ushuaia and the Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego. From here it is a hop, skip, and a jump to the Antarctic Peninsula, but we will leave that for next time.

HUMAHUACA

The rustic town at the heart of the Quebrada de Humahuaca Valley.

Argentina’s northern gateway is the border-crossing at La Quiaca in Argentina and Villazon in Bolivia to the north. is is a border crossing which o en requires a lot of patience as queue lines can be long.

While Argentinians and Bolivians walk freely across the bridge, foreigners must get their passports processed in a building below the bridge which can be tedious and slow.

Not waiting in line are the hundreds of labourers running back and forth across the border to upload and unload heavy bags and other goods between trucks parked on both sides of the dividing line. e border is not always open to cargo vehicles so all cargo must be carried across the border by manpower.

As you arrive in Argentina, a large yellow road sign will welcome you with “Bi-

envenidos a La Quiaca - Ushuaia 5,121 kilometres (3,182 mi)”. As you stare at the big number, you will with no doubt get dizzy with the realization that it is a very long way down to Argentina’s most southern town, Ushuaia. Between the Bolivian border and Ushuaia, known as the “world’s southernmost town”, Argentina has more to o er than we can experience in a lifetime!

About 160 kilometres (99 mi) south on the road to the town of Salta lies the red mudbrick village of Humahuaca. While the town itself is not one of the country’s highlights, the surrounding narrow mountains and valleys, named Quebrada de Humahuaca, are a vivid red-orange multi-coloured display created by mother nature. Indeed, so incredibly beautiful that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

dered by the Andean Plateau to the west and north and by the sub-Andean hills to the east. e Grande River (Río Grande) ows through Quebrada de Humahuaca and served as a caravan route to the Inca Empire during the 15th century. e river is mostly dry during the winter months, which made it a perfect highway for ancient explorers.

Quebrada de Humahuaca, known as Argentina’s

Rainbow Valley, has been populated for thousands of years. It is packed with history and natural wonders.

e Spanish conquerors knew these Indian people of the Grande de Jujuy River as the “omaguacas”. According to historians, the name is derived from an Andean Indian legend that makes reference to a people crying: Humahuacac!

Humahuacac!

e town’s Hispanic foundation dates back to 1591 as it served as a stopover for expeditions to the High Perú.

Base yourself in sleepy Humahuaca and head out into the rusty-red valley by horse, on foot, or any other type of transportation t for a moon landscape.

e valley stretches about 155 kilometres (96 mi) from north to south and is bor-

Humahuaca has narrow cobbled streets, illuminated by colonial-style street lamps and is inhabited by a people clinging to ancient traditions.

e curious traveller will nd a few interesting attractions in town such as

Humahuaca in northern Argentina.

the Monumento a los Héroes de la Independencia, a monument made from over 70 tons of bronze built in honour of the “Army of North” and the indigenous peoples who fought in the Quebrada de Humahuaca during Argentina’s War of Independence.

e San Francisco Solano de la Bendición is a Franciscan church in the main plaza, and well worth a visit, mainly for its unique bell-tower. Every day at precisely 12-noon, the heavy copper doors of the bell-tower slowly open, and a life-size animated wooden statue of San Francisco Solano appears for about two minutes. He makes the sign of the cross and bestows his blessing on believers and passersby on the village plaza before returning to his tiny home inside the bell-tower.

Also check out the artisan market at Centro de Artesanías Tantanahue, folkloric music and dancing at selected venues including restaurants, and red pottery shops creating vivid red earthenware cra pottery.

Make sure to taste llama meat stews and many delectable dishes from the Quebrada de Humahuaca, such as quinoa empanadas (a small baked pie), locro (hearty thick stew), tamales (dough steamed in a corn husk), humitas (steamed corn cakes similar to tamales), charqui (dried, salted meat), and many more local delicacies.

About 25 kilometres (15.5 mi) east of Humahuaca lies the Serranía del Hornocal

mountain range at a height of 4,761 metres (15,620  ) with its multi-coloured jagged landscape. e colours are most vivid in the late a ernoon and immediately a er sunset.

Driving south of Humahuaca along Route 9 to Purmamarca with its Cerro de los Siete Colores ( e Hill of Seven Colours) is a world of dazzling red rocks in all directions. Purmamarca is considered to be one of the most picturesque villages in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, so it is not to be missed! Enroute, spend a day or two at Tilcara, about 26 kilometres (16 mi) from Purmamarca. Tilcara is a small village with a lively town square, a few bars and restaurants, and plenty of historical and natural sights to adore.

Don’t miss the Pucará de Tilcara, a pre-Inca forti cation on a hill just outside of town.

e drive southward from Purmamarca to Salta takes less than three hours though you will be tempted to stop frequently for the views.

Monumento a los Hèroes de la independencia, Humahuaca.

“

The non-touristy town of Humahuaca is dotted with adobe houses, cobblestone streets and a quaint plaza.”

Early morning in Humahuaca.

San Francisco Solano de la Bendición, Humahuaca.

Cacti in Humahuaca.

SALTA

Founded in 1582, Salta is known for its Spanish heritage & colonial architecture.

Salta, capital of Argentina’s Salta Province, lies in the Lerma Valley at 1,152 metres (3,780 feet) above sea level and has a population of well over half a million.

A great start to exploring the streets and architecture of the city is to survey it from above. Board the teleférico (cable car) from Parque San Martín and reach the top of Cerro San Bernardo Hill in less than 10 minutes.

Alternatively, take the trail with many stairs starting at the Güemes Monument, or just drive up by car. At the top

of the hill, you will nd a wine bar operated out of a tricked-out bicycle and wagon, and several handicra shops.

Salta’s palm tree lined main square, Plaza 9 de Julio, is surrounded by Spanish colonial architecture, cobblestone streets and cosy cafes. Along the square is Salta’s most recognizable sight, the magni cent lightpink neoclassical Catedral Basílica de Salta with its brilliant red, gold, green, and blue interior.

Also along the square is the whitewashed El Cabildo de Salta, the colonial town hall which nowadays serves as the Historical Museum of the North. e current building was constructed in 1780

while the tower was completed several years later. Since its completion, the building has served many purposes including police headquarters, government house, a private compound, and even a hotel. Since its full restoration in 1945, it is the most complete and best-preserved town hall in all of Argentina.

Sit under the umbrellas outside the El Cabildo and order a cold Salta Cerveza (beer).

As we’re on the long way down to the world’s southernmost town of Ushuaia, we continue southeast of Salta on a rather long detour to the Iguaçu Falls before turning southwest to the nation’s capital, Buenos Aires.

“ Time stands still in certain parts of the city with its preserved cobblestone streets and Spanish architecture"

—thecrazytourist.com

Teleférico from Parque San Martín to the top of Cerro San Bernardo.

Colonial El Cabildo de Salta at Plaza 9 de Julio.

Plaza 9 de Julio.

Interior of the Catedral Basílica de Salta.

IGUAZÚ FALLS

The Iguazú Falls is the largest waterfall system in the world.

The spectacular Iguazú Falls lie over 1,400 kilometres (870 mi) east of Salta on the trijunction of Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay. e Iguazú River, with a drainage basin of 62,000 km2 (24,000 sq mi), is 1,320 kilometres (820 mi) long.

e falls, which divide the Iguazú River into the upper and lower Iguazú, are the largest waterfall system in the world. While most of the river ows through Brazil,

the largest section (about 80%) of the falls is on the Argentinian side.

While Iguazú Falls, at over 1,600 metres (5,249  ) wide and over 100 metres (328  ) in height, is wider than the Victoria Falls in Southern Africa, the latter has a much larger “solid curtain of falls” in high- ow season. Iguazú is split into roughly 275 distinct falls by river islands and therefore is not a wide solid curtain. Most of them are about 64 metres (210 ) in height.

Iguazú Falls is generally listed as the world’s biggest waterfall, followed by Victoria Falls, Niagara Falls, and Venezuela’s Angel Falls which is also the world’s highest.

While it is easy to watch the plunging waters all day long from several vantage points, there are a lot more things to do at Iguazú Falls than simply to marvel at their beauty.

The falls divide the river into the upper and lower Iguazu. Some of the falls are over 80 m (269 ft) in height, though the majority are about 64 m (210 ft).

e most impressive of them all is the Devil’s roat U-shaped falls at 80–90 metres (262–295 ) wide and 70–80 metres (229–262 ) high.

On the Brazilian side, go on the Macuco Jetboat Safari. At $65 for an adult, this is a speedboat ride you won’t easily forget. e boat takes you right into the Devil’s roat where you run rapids and ride right under the thunderous falls located on the Argentinian side. As you

get thoroughly drenched, you will know that you survived a ride underneath one of the world’s greatest waterfalls.

Also on the Brazilian side is the Parque das Aves, where you can get close to several bird species, including toucans, macaws, scarlet ibises, amingos and parrots located in three immersion aviaries. You’ll also  nd reptiles such as alligators, anacondas and boas.

Helicopter rides over the falls are available though they are quite pricey. You can also hike, bike, and paddle around the area, in addition to going on a guided jungle safari.

Just 13 kilometres (8 mi) north of the falls is the Itaipu Dam, once billed as the “largest dam project on earth” until

China’s ree Gorges Dam Project overshadowed it. A sunset tour by catamaran is a great way to end your day.

All these activities will work up a good appetite, so try one of the authentic restaurants located in the area of the falls where waiters serve an endless selection of prime meat cuts to your table.

Choose from pork, lamb, chicken and every cut of beef you can think of. Eat as much or as little as you like.

“

Iguazu waterfalls are unquestionably more impressive than the Niagara Falls in Canada / USA!

"

Bare-faced curassow.

Red-breasted toucan.

Red-winged tinamou.

Scarlet macaw.

English clock tower, San Martin.

Congress building in Buenos Aires.

Statue of Evita, Recoleta cemetery.

The wide July 9 Avenue, Buenos Aires.

Parrilla (BBQ) at the Siga La Vaca restaurant in Buenos Aires.

Colonial building in Buenos Aires.

BUENOS AIRES

Capital and largest city of Argentina, BA is a feast for all the senses.

The road from the Iguazú Falls to the nation’s capital, Buenos Aires, stretches for almost 1,300 kilometres (807 mi) along the border with Brazil and Uruguay. Located south of the Rio de la Plata River on the Atlantic Coast, the name Buenos Aires means “good air”, for a very good reason.

Buenos Aires is a city where you may want to linger for a few days, or even a few weeks or months. Many travellers have come here and stayed for years. Once the city, locally known as BA, is in your blood,

it is hard to remove yourself from its loving arms. No wonder some people describe the city as ‘seductive’.

As the capital of Argentina, and also one of the largest cities of South America, the people of BA are known as the “Porteños” or “people of the port”. Considered to be the “pearl city” of South America, it is one of the least expensive cities in the world.

Many travellers visit BA for tango dancing in the streets, the parrilla (BBQ) restaurants, parks such as the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur and the Bosques de Palermo, and the open-air markets. However, BA is best understood and appreciated by knowing, and enjoying its 48 distinctive neighbourhoods known locally as barrios, each with its own personality and special characteristics. e most popular barrios include:

e recent decline in the value of the Argentinian Peso has made it even more a ordable, though get in quick before a spike in in ation erodes its a ordability.

• Palermo, BA’s most populated barrio, has a young vibe that attracts expats, foreign visitors and an evergrowing number of porteños (local residents). Here you will nd boundless cafés and restaurants, bars and nightclubs, parks, botanical gardens, a zoo, museums and galleries, shops, and artisan markets. Its tree-lined cobblestone streets are a favourite haunt for backpackers, hipsters, designers and digital nomads. During your visit, you will no doubt end up spending time in Palermo.

• Recoleta is an upscale area with welldressed locals meandering along exclusive avenues and dining in chic cafés and trendy bars. It has countless plazas, parks, museums, the national library, and is home to the Recoleta cemetery, a must-visit for graveyard enthusiasts. Here you will nd the family tomb of Eva Mara Duarte de Perón (aka ‘Evita’), Argentina’s First Lady from 1946 to 1952. e graveyard covers an area of about 55,000 m2 (592,000 sq feet) and is a mini-village of tombs, some lavish while others crumble.

• Puerto Madero is the old port district transformed into a trendy area with hotels and restaurants. Historically, this busy old port was the heart of the city, though it only functioned as a port for about 15 years from 1897. e increasingly large cargo ships quickly rendered the port obsolete and so a new port was opened in 1911. e ships and warehouses have now made space for an upmarket area with high-end night haunts, a rotating footbridge, a  oating-ship museum, and the 864-acre Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, popular with birdwatchers.

Few cities will tug on your heart strings more than Buenos Aires — the city of tango, food, wine, and barrios with great personalities.

Tango dancing in the streets of Buenos Aires.

Street performers at work, Buenos Aires.

• Belgrano is one of the largest barrios and is a pleasant neighbourhood for aimless strolling and admiring residential homes. e barrio’s square, Plaza Manuel Belgrano, o ers a weekend artisan fair where locals show o their handicra s and jewellery.

• San Telmo is blessed with cobblestoned streets, colonial buildings with crumbling facades, an amazing weekly street market, and many great restaurants and bars. With a very humble beginning as home to the poor, its past has been le  behind. Today San Telmo is a Bohemian enclave dotted with designer boutiques, cafes, tango parlours, and is described by many as the city’s most fashionable barrio. Be here on Sundays when the antique market and street party turns Calle Defensa street into the hippest place in town.

• Monserrat is home to many signicant public buildings and the famous Plaza de Mayo. In fact, the entire city of Buenos Aires was built around the plaza and many of Argentina’s historical events took place here. In 1810, Plaza de Mayo was the focal point of the revolution that triggered the War of Independence against the Spanish colonialists. Surrounding this plaza are historical buildings and architectural masterpieces such as the pink Casa Rosada, o ce of the President of Argentina. Nearby is the Museo del Bicentenario, the Cabildo (Town Hall), the Catedral Metropolitana, Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo y la Revolución de Mayo, and several galleries and churches.

• La Boca sits at the mouth of the Matanza River and is known for its colourful buildings and music, a buzzing barrio

where tango dancers rule the streets and houses resemble a painter’s palette, awash with all hues and colours. Caminito, the main street, is every bit as colourful as the La Boca houses, complete with fairs of artists and painters and tango shows. Here you will also nd La Bombonera, the 49,000seat football stadium that is home to the much beloved Boca Juniors team. Don’t miss a match when they are playing on their home turf.

• Caballito is in the geographic centre of the city and a great place to check out the colonial-style mansions on Avenida Rivadavia. Parque Rivadavia has a daily market packed with all kinds of interesting items. Interested in historical tramways? On Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays, take a free two-kilometre loop ride on the Tranvía Histórico trams lovingly maintained by Amigos del Tranvía (friends of the tramway) Association.

While BA o ers an array of dining experiences, nothing comes close to dining at the 25-year old Siga la Vaca chain of restaurants, which is exclusively for serious carnivores.

Need a break from the big city? Just 32 kilometres (20 mi) northwest of the city is the town of Tigre, a picturesque town on the banks of the Luján River and the Río de la Plata. e most economical way to Tigre is via the Linea Mitre train which begins at BA’s Retiro station. is is an interesting experience complete with roving onboard merchants selling anything you may need. However, for those who want to travel in style, the 11-station light rail line, Tren de La Costa (Coastal Train), takes tourists to various stops along the river with picturesque views of the Paraná Delta.

Alternatively, go by bus or take a boat trip to Tigre from the barrio of Puerto Madero.

Once in Tigre you can walk around the interesting town, along the river or take a boat tour among the Parana Delta Islands. Don’t miss the Museo de Arte Tigre which is housed in one of Tigre’s most stunning Belle Epoque palaces. e museum focuses on Argentine art from the 19th and 20th centuries by masters such as Antonio Berni, Raúl Soldi, and Eduardo Sivori.

Boat rides among the Parana Delta Islands, Tigre.

Outdoor BBQ (parrilla) is very popular, Tigre.

ARGENTINA PATAGONIA

PENINSULA VALDEZ

Península Valdés is best known for its protected marine animals.

One of the best areas to experience wildlife in Argentina is at Peninsula Valdés, a Patagonian coastal nature reserve. Located in the Argentinian Province of Chubut, the peninsula is known for its conservation of marine mammals with a large breeding population of the endangered southern right whale as well as active breeding populations of southern elephant seals, southern sea lions and thousands of nesting Magellanic penguins.

One of the biggest attractions in this area is observing the unique hunting strategy of the killer whale or orcas—a coordinated strategy to encircle and push their prey into shallow waters where they are devoured.

In addition to roughly 400 kilometres (249 mi) of unspoiled shoreline, the mushroomshaped peninsula also boasts rocky cli s of up to 100 metres (328 ) high, shallow bays, shi ing coastal lagoons with extensive mud ats, pebble beaches, large sand dunes, and a few small islands.

e land ecosystem is dominated by

the Patagonian Desert Steppe with herds of guanacos, one of South America’s native camelid species and cousin of the llama.

You may also get to see the Patagonian mara, a rodent endemic to Argentina, and plenty of birds including the migratory snowy sheathbill, white-headed steamer duck and the ostrich-like ightless lesser rhea.

Punta Pirámides is famous for its sea-lion rookery and cormorants that can be viewed from the cli s high above.

While you may need a few weeks to see all the animals that make their home

Patagonia’s Peninsula Valdés is home to an active breeding population of endangered southern right whales, southern elephant seals, and southern sea lions.

Southern right whales can be seen around Puerto Piramides and Puerto Madryn, Peninsula Valdés.

at Peninsula Valdés, even a one-day trip from the nearby town of Puerto Madryn is a must-do.

Over 800 kilometres (497 mi) northwest of Peninsula Valdés is the town of Bariloche. Situated in the foothills of the Andes Mountains on the southern shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi, it is a long detour but the rewards are immense.

e ski resort at Cerro Catedral is the biggest in the southern hemisphere. Swimming in the lakes, shing, whitewater ra ing, hiking, and bird watching are some of the many reasons to visit.

Southern sea lions at Punta Pirámides, Peninsula Valdés.

Southern sea lions at Punta Pirámides, Peninsula Valdés.

Guanacos, Peninsula Valdés. Magellanic penguins, Peninsula Valdés.

PATAGONIA GLACIERS

Patagonia’s glaciers are among the world’s most impressive and accessible.

Southern Argentina has well over 300 glaciers. Many of them located in the Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Argentina’s Santa Cruz province. Ice covers over 40% of this national park with about 47 glaciers, all of which are fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field which holds the world’s third largest reserve of freshwater.

Perito Moreno Glacier, one of the largest, most impressive, and most accessible glaciers in the park, covers an area of 250

km²  (97 sq mi) and is about 30 kilometres (19 mi) in length. e glacier’s terminal (front-face) is 5 kilometres (3.1 mi) wide, with an average height of 74 metres (240 ) above the surface of Lake Argentino. Its total ice depth at the terminal is 170 metres (558 ).

While most glaciers worldwide are retreating, glaciologists claim that Perito Moreno is one of only three Patagonian glaciers actually growing.

Glacier) can be visited by catamaran, kayak, or 4x4 excursions.

Argentina’s southern Patagonia region is famous for its Los Glaciares National Park with several massive glaciers fed by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.

Glacier hikes are o ered, and as long as you are very careful you won’t die a slow icy death. Join a local glacier-hiking group with a guide, put on your crampons (spiked ice-boots), secure the ropes, and get onto the glacier. An unforgettable hike indeed!

A full day visit allows for views from di erent vantage points around the terminal of the glacier. e surrounding hills o er spectacular views of the glacier while other glaciers along the lake (e.g. Upsala

Upsala Glacier is one of the largest glaciers of the South American continent. H. Hesketh Prichard, who called it “Giant Glacier”, discovered the glacier in 1901 but in 1908, it was renamed by Geologist P.D. Quensel for the Swedish Uppsala University, located 71 kilometres (44 mi) from the Swedish capital, Stockholm. It was the frst university to sponsor glaciological studies in Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park.

Perito Moreno Glacier is a 90-minute ride (78 km / 19 mi) west from the town of El Calafate (pop. 6,500). e town is a convenient base for many scenic spots in the area, including the spectacular amingos that congregate on Lake Argentino. While in the area, take a three-hour drive up to El

Chaltén, a small mountain village located on the riverside of Rio de las Vueltas which is known as “Argentina’s Trekking Capital.”

As the crow ies, roughly 40 kilometres (25 mi) south of Perito Moreno lies the equally impressive Upsala Glacier, one of the largest glaciers on the South American continent with a surface area of 765 km² (295 sq miles), 53.7 kilometres (33.3 miles) long and 70 metres (230 ) high. Back in 1986, the area of the glacier was 896 km² (346 sq miles), so it has shrunk signicantly. Occasionally, large portions of the glacier break loose that create “ oating isles” on Lake Argentino.

Southeast of El Calafate, a half-moon detour of almost 300 kilometres (186 mi) by road, is the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, one of the most beautiful mountain landscapes in the world.

Perito Moreno Glacier has a powdery blue colour that comes mainly from compressed snow and ice crystals formed by air bubbles. It appears blue as a result of an overtone of oxygen-hydrogen (O-H) in the frozen water which absorbs light at the red end of the visible spectrum (long wavelengths) while the blue end of the visible spectrum (short wavelengths) is transmitted and scattered. The longer the light takes to travel through the ice before reaching our eyes, the deeper blue it appears.

El Calefate, Patagonia, Argentina

The Hotel Edenia is strategically located in front of the Redonda Bay of El Calafate and meters from the Argentino Lake, allowing you to enjoy a unique view.

It has a gourmet restaurant overlooking Lake Argentino and a Lounge Bar overlooking Redonda Bay and the city of El Calafate.

Our spacious rooms are soundproofed for the tranquility and rest of the guest.

Surrounded by mountains and lakes, this hotel gives you the opportunity to be in contact with nature and enjoy the tranquility of the landscape.

USHUAIA, ARGENTINA

It is located 15 minutes by car from the International Airport of Ushuaia Islas Malvinas and 5 minutes from the Port of Ushuaia from where they start sailing excursions to the Beagle Channel.

San Martin Avenue is 200 meters away. In common areas of the hotel, high speed Wi-Fi is free.

The Las Lengas Hotel is located in front of the Parque Centenario, placed on an elevation of the land with panoramic view of the city.

ARGENTINA FAR SOUTH

Hiking over Martial Glacier.

Streets of Ushuaia.

Sea lions on La Isla de Los Lobos, Beagle Channel.

Beagle Channel.

Ushuaia viewed from the harbour.

USHUAIA

The world’s southernmost town is also the gateway to a lot of adventure.

Ushuaia, pronounced [u’swaia], is the capital of the province of Tierra del Fuego in southern Argentina. Lonely Planet Travel guides describes the town as “A sliver of steep streets and jumbled buildings below the snowcapped Martial Range. Here the Andes meets the southern ocean in a sharp skid, making way for the city before reaching a sea of lapping currents”. How idyllic!

While this is not the most southern settlement, it is generally labelled as the “southernmost town” in the world, a title long disputed by the much smaller Puerto Williams.

Although Puerto Williams, southeast of Ushuaia on the Chilean island of Navarino, is farther south, it has only 2,900 inhabitants compared with Ushuaia’s population of more than 60,000. As Ushuaia is commonly regarded as the “southernmost town,” it leaves Puerto Williams with the title of “southernmost village.”

Ushuaia is located in a wide bay on the southern coast of the island known as “Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego.” Guarded on the north by the Martial Mountain Range

and on the south by the Beagle Channel, the rst humans to settle in the Tierra del Fuego date back about 10,000 years when the Selk’nam Indians, also called the Ona, arrived. eir southern splinter group, referred to as the Yaghan or Yámana, occupied the area which now is known as Ushuaia.

British missionaries founded the town of Ushuaia in 1884, and the town’s population slowly grew. However, epidemics including typhus, pertussis, and measles decimated the native population and by 1911 the Yámana had all practically vanished.

To boost the small population, the Argentine government started sending reo enders and dangerous prisoners, as well as political prisoners from Buenos Aires to the new jail in Ushuaia which at this time was known as Presidio, meaning “the jail at the end of the world.

e prisoners were subjected to hard labour both inside the prison grounds and outside. As forced colonists, they spent much of their time building the new town of Ushuaia with timber collected from the lush forest around the town. ey also constructed a short railway to transport rock, sand and timber to expand the prison and the town.

e original train line was constructed in 1902 and shu ed around on wooden rails with atbed wagons pulled by oxen. In 1910 a steam engine was brought in and the gauge was widened, presumably with steel tracks. e 1949 Tierra del Fuego earthquake caused a landslide which blocked much of the line just two years a er the prison was closed, so gone were the labourers to remove the blockage. e blockage was cleared by non-prisoners but again closed in 1952 due to a lack of money.

Fast forward to 1994 when the line was reopened and upgraded, with the addition of a new steam engine from England. Now known as the “Southern Fuegian Railway” or “End of the World Train,” it serves champagne and dinner to tourists on a short ride along Pico Valley in the Toro Gorge. At the Macarena Station passengers learn about the Yámana indigenous people and then continue on through the scenic Tierra del Fuego National Park.

Guess what? It is indisputably labelled as the “southernmost railway in the world.”

e original jail, closed in 1947 by President Juan Perón, today serves as a museum known as the Museo Marítimo de Ushuaia, which is the southernmost museum in the world, we assume! One of the cells known as the Ala Histórica remains almost intact to demonstrate the mysterious and dark atmosphere inside the cells, complete with memorabilia from the last prisoners who lived here.

Another pleasant day trip is to explore the Beagle Channel and Lapataia Bay by boat. e channel, named a er the explorer Charles Darwin’s ship which sailed here in 1833-34, separates Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego from the southern islands of Navarino, Nueva, Lennox, Picton, and many other smaller islands.

As your boat sails past the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse and many islands, look out for breeding colonies of sea lions, imperial cormorants, dolphin gulls, and steamer ducks.

Being so close to the bottom of the world is a special feeling, in particular when you are surrounded by beautiful scenery and wildlife.

Lighthouse, Beagle Channel.

TIERRA DEL FUEGO

Tierra del Fuego National Park has dramatic scenery and wildlife.

From Ushuaia, it’s a pleasant day trip into the nearby Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego. Established in 1960 and expanded in 1966, the park is well-known for its dramatic scenery with waterfalls, forests, mountains and glaciers.

Look out for several species of mammals, including the guanaco, Andean fox, and the North American beaver. Ignore the many European rabbits as they don’t belong here, and neither do other introduced species such as Canadian beaver, muskrat rodent, mink and armadillo.

A few pairs of European rabbits were introduced to the Chilean side of Tierra del Fuego Island in 1936 and knowing these bunnies, they multiplied rapidly. Due to these unwelcome breeders, the ground in many parts of the park became riddled with holes, and some areas denuded of vegetation.

Back in 1950, the rabbit population was estimated to be a whopping 30 million. In an attempt to control them, grey foxes, which never existed on Tierra del Fuego Island, were released in 1951.

e grey fox and the native Patagonian fox did not do much to control the rabbit population, so the muchfeared myxoma virus that causes myxomatosis in rabbits was introduced. It almost decimated the entire rabbit population, however, some survived so today there are plenty of rabbits to be seen within the park.

The 63,000 hectares Tierra del Fuego National Park stretches from the Beagle Channel to the edges of Lago Kami at the southernmost point of Argentine Patagonia.

Among the many species of birds in the park are kelp goose, upland goose, torrent duck, southern crested caracara, Austral parakeet, Andean condor, blackish oystercatcher, and the Magellanic oystercatcher.

In addition to the fauna and ora, the park is also famous for being the southern terminus of the Pan-American Highway (National Route 3), a highway which runs 3,045 kilometres (1,892 mi) all the way

from the nation’s capital, Buenos Aires. e Martial Range to the north of Ushuaia o ers good ski runs. Taking the Aerosilla chairli to the top during any time of the year o ers spectacular panoramas over the mountains, Tierra Del Fuego Park, Ushuaia, and the Beagle Channel. At the exit of the chairli is the Club Andino Ushuaia shelter which is a great place for a rest and a drink. From here the trail leads to the base of Glacier Martial, which runs alongside a little mountain river in its last stage. However, if conditions are favourable, the panoramic views are more impressive than the actual glacier. Glacier Martial has shrunk dramatically over the past century, as is shown in the photographs on display in the shelter’s café.

So now we have made it all the way down to Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel. Going any farther south, we will enter the most southern territory of Chile, Isla Navarino and the Wollaston Islands. Next stop is the Antarctic Peninsula which we will leave for next time. GR

Scenery in Tierra del Fuego National Park.

Darwin’s fungus.

Black-faced Ibis.

Chimango caracara.

Upland goose.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

Getting There

Several airlines offer regularly scheduled fights from Europe, the USA, and Canada. Flights from Asia and Africa are limited and often require a change in Europe, the USA, or in Central America (such as Copa Airlines based in Panama). A north-south journey is best started in La Paz, Bolivia, via the incredible Uyuni Salt Flats to Villazon on the border.

When to Go

Argentina is an all-year destination. It’s best to decide what you want to see and where you want to go. Avoid the December and January holidays. Generally, springtime (October to mid-December) and autumn (April to mid-June) are the best times to visit Argentina.

Dining Out

Dining is the most important reason for many people to visit Argentina, in particular if you are a serious carnivore and a wine drinker. The BBQ asados are among the best in the world. These people are serious meat connoisseurs. Wines from the Mendosa region are excellent.

Getting Around Photography

While an Aerolineas Argentinas “Visit Argentina Pass” will save you money, it is more fun to take the long road. Popular long-distance bus routes are served by several bus companies, some of which are super luxury and come at a reasonable fare. The bus routes are extensive and a highly recommended way to travel. Longdistance passenger trains are limited.

Argentina is a photographer’s playground. While the cities, Buenos Aires in particular, have many neighbourhoods of interest to urban living photographers, the country is packed with beautiful landscapes, in particular the mountains, ski resorts, national parks, waterfalls, Patagonia’s glaciers and lakes, wildlife hotspots such as Península Valdés, etc.

Where to Stay Safety

The tourist infrastructure is well developed and accommodation is available in all price ranges, except for the smaller villages. Guesthouses and quality hostels are widely available. If you visit the Pampas lowlands, stay at a cattle and sheep ranch (estancias) and hang out with a cowboy.

Packing

This is a laidback country so dress casually for most of the time. Your activities and the time of the year will determine the clothes you pack. Winters in the south can be quite cold and summers in Buenos Aires and the north are very hot. The coldest months are June and July.

Argentina is a modern country but has experienced a depressed economy in recent years. Petty theft is common in cities and muggings do happen. Argentina has a problem with drugs, which can make people unpredictable, so be careful. Nature should be your biggest safety concern.

Cost of Travel

While the Argentina Peso has been depreciating against the USD in recent years, it lost half of its value since early 2018. Now is a great time to visit, though infation hit 48% in 2018 but is expected to cool down in 2019. Go soon to get great value for your foreign currency.

Small chapel (Cappella Maria Auxiliadora) in the Tierra del Fuego National Park.

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10 Experiences in Argentina

It is tough to select the best experiences in such a large and diverse country. For those with less than a week, you will undoubtedly miss out on some of the best places. Argentina should be explored in not less than three or four weeks, if not more. Based on my own personal interests and preferences, here is my list of Top 10 experiences not to be missed. Beyond these ten, honorable mentions must go to Córdoba city, Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley), Punta Tombo National Reserve, and Talampaya National Park.

Iguazú Falls Iguazú River 1

Viewing the Iguazu Falls from the Argentine side is a sight to behold. The never-ending spray coming from the cascades of white foam tumbling into the depths below is an incredible sight and sound.

Between the many vantage points walk through the rainforest to see coatis and tropical birds. Some of the walkways get real close to the thundering falls and you will get completely soaked by the spray. Once you are close to the falls the sound is so loud that you can’t even hear people around you. Take a helicopter ride over the falls or take a speedboat to see the falls from below to appreciate the sheer power.

Food, Tango, Barrios Buenos Aires 2

The Glaciers

Los Glaciares National Park 3

Wildlife

Península Valdés 4

Watch the live tango lessons on the street in the bohemian San Telmo district of Buenos Aires. Meet up with a local Porteño (resident of the city) to walk with you through the many barrios (suburbs). Each barrio has its own distinct personality and attractions.

After exploring the city, settle down in a nice cafe for a few glasses of wine from Argentina’s Mendosa region. Don’t miss the Malbec reds, which are authentically Argentinian. For dinner, get to Siga La Vaca restaurant in the barrio of Puerto Madero for a serious carnivore indulgence, with more wine!

Perito Moreno Glacier in the Los Glaciares National Park of the Patagonia Region is one of the most accessible glaciers in the world. No need to hike for days through the rugged mountain terrain. The front end of this massive glacier reaches out into Lago Argentino and is about a 1-hour drive from the small town of El Calafate, a great base to explore the region.

The area around Lago Argentino in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field has several glaciers, including the impressive Upsala Glacier, known for its rapid retreat.

Located over 1,300 km (800 mi) south of Buenos Aires, Península Valdés in Patagonia is connected to the mainland by the isthmus of Carlos Ameghino. It is home to an important breeding population of the endangered southern right whale as well as southern elephant seals and southern sea lions. You may also see orcas, rheas, guanacos, maras, magellanic penguins, foxes, and many bird species.

Stay in the nearby town of Puerto Madryn or even closer at the small settlement of Puerto Pirámides.

Located in the Glaciares National Park near the town of El Chalten along the border with Chile, this is one of the most beautiful places on earth. Cerro (hill) Fitz Roy has become an important symbol of Patagonia, and also of Argentina. The rugged sky-puncturing peaks are visible from far away and only the most adventurous dare to climb the peaks. Most travellers come here to hike the trails rather than climbing its high peaks at 3,375 m (11,070 ft). Visitors can camp for free in the designated campgrounds and entry to the national park carries no entry fee.

The Iberá Wetlands is comparable to the Pantanal, the world’s largest tropical wetland area located across Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay. It is teeming with wildlife such as caiman, otters, capybaras, wolves, howler monkeys and over 400 species of birds.

The Iberá Wetlands is a mix of swamps, stagnant lakes, and lagoons and is the second largest wetland in the world after the Pantanal. Stay on a farm with the gauchos (South American cowboys) and experience life by drinking maté tea with Argentina’s most skilled horsemen.

The Myrtle is a bush with an exquisite saffron-tanned colour covered in petite white fowers. As the bush gets older it becomes a tree and creates a unique dense forest. The old trees have wide trunks with saffron-tanned bark covered in white spots. Nearby Lake Nahuel Huapi and Victoria Island are located in a calming and beautiful, natural environment.

No trip to Argentina is complete without going the long way down to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost town. From here take day trips to the nearby Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego and the Glaciar Martial.

Boat trips leave from the Ushuaia harbour to show travellers the beauty of the Beagle Channel that separates the larger main island of Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego from various smaller islands to the south. Here you will see the world’s southernmost lighthouse, the 1920-built Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse. It is 11 m (36 ft) high.

From north to south, Argentina has two popular wine-making regions, Mendoza and San Juan, and a developing region of La Rioja, and Catamarca. There are also some vineyards in the eastern part of the country, in the provinces of Cordoba, Buenos Aires, and La Pampa, but their production is still low.

Mendoza, Argentina’s largest wine region, is located at the edge of the Andes Mountains. The frst vines were planted here in the mid-16th century. It is most famous for its excellent Malbec grape variety.

Two hours drive south of the Bolivia border lies the Quebrada de Humahuaca (Humahuaca Gorge). This is a 200 km long (124 mi) UNESCO World Heritage Site that contains evidence of being inhabited by prehispanic tribes about 15,000 years ago.

The area is rich in history, art and culture, and one of the most unique and beautiful landscape sceneries in the world. A highlight is the Cerro de 7 Colores (Hill of Seven Colours) in Purmamarca, as well as the ruins of the Pucara fortress. The tranquil town of Humahuaca is a must visit.

The legendary myrtle woods are located near Bariloche in the stunning Quetrihue Peninsula west of Península Valdés along the Chile border.

Photo location:

Photo Essay

Sabah, Borneo Island