Veneziani Arte Design History in Rome Fine Arts \Lighting \ Sculpture\ Design
Te Veneziani family comes from an important antique dealer’s dynasty, and has been active in this feld since 1883, in Italy and across the the world.
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WELCOME TO ROME
President of the Roman Association of Hotel Concierges “Les Clefs d’Or”
will find all the information you might need and, above all, our suggestions for the best the city has to offer in the summer season.In this issue, provided personally by us to you, we will share the events and concerts you should not miss, the most amusing exhibitions to visit in the city and the restaurants that are absolutely worth trying. Along with this, a tour of the most iconic squares and unique itineraries to discover Rome’s Ancient Appian Way.
We remain at your disposal at our hotels, delighted to receive your inquiries and requests. From all of us, have a wonderful and amazing stay!
1 2 DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
CARACALLA FESTIVAL 2024
Until 10 August
Terme di Caracalla
The Rome Opera Theatre’s summer program takes place in the spaces of the Baths of Caracalla and includes, among others, Massimiliano Fuksas’s opera debut with Tosca and Turandot, the return of Roberto Bolle, a 100th anniversary tribute to Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue with Wayne Marshall, and Dior’s Roman Nights, which combine fashion, music and dance, starring Eleonora Abbagnato.
ROMA SUMMER FEST 2024
Until 15 September
Auditorium Parco della Musica Ennio Morricone
JOURNEYS THROUGH ANCIENT ROME
FORO DI CESARE
Until 22 September
Imperial Fora Archaeological Area
The summer festival features countless artists from the national and international music scene who will be on stage with a series of unmissable concerts. From Deep Purple to Gary Clark Jr., Loreena McKennit, Tyga and Fatboy Slim, this year the program is truly full of different sounds. 3
This multimedia show accompanied by the voice of Piero Angela, brings to life the scenic archaeological area, as it appeared in ancient Rome. The show offers audio narration in eight languages. Taking the form of a walking tour, it unfolds along a path with four stages. The entire experience lasts about 50 minutes.
LUNGO IL TEVERE... ROMA 2024
Until 29 September
From Ponte Sublicio to Ponte Sisto
With the patronage of Roma Capitale and the Lazio Region, the festival along the Tiber is back, with exhibitions, displays, musical and literary events, book presentations, theatre and concerts. A historic event along the banks of the Tiber, with the Tiber Island in the background, and the Saloto Tevere, located under Ponte Cestio, with its summer-long cultural calendar.
4 5 6
LONGINES GLOBAL CHAMPIONS
TOUR ROMA 2024
Until 1 September Circo Massimo
Equestrian Formula 1 returns to the capital for the 14th leg of the 2024 edition of the world’s most prestigious show jumping circuit. For the fourth time, antiquity’s largest entertainment venue welcomes horses and the international show jumping elite with an unforgetable event that confirms its original vocation and the link between Rome and this prestigious sporting event.
Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55
A 150-seat auditorium used for live concerts, screenings and meetings. Every year, it presents a rich program with the participation of internationally renowned and lesser-known artists. The aim of Casa del Jazz is to promote and disseminate Made in Italy jazz, to constitute a meeting point for musicians, producers, and critics, and to atract and educate an audience of the curious and non-insiders.
CASA JAZZ
Merging artisanal tradition with timeless elegance, Murano Più has been a distinguished family enterprise specializing in the creation and distribution of Murano glass since 1958. Our extensive range encompasses everything from exquisite small souvenirs to grand chandeliers, showcasing a diverse selection of glassware, mirrors, vases, sculptures, jewelry, and fine furnishings.
ART APPOINTMENTS
A
BEAUTIFUL WORLD
Until 25 August
Palazzo Bonaparte
A project conceived by Mario Testino, one of the world’s most famous contemporary fashion photographers. The exhibition is Testino’s magical and nuanced navigation of the complexities and contrasts of our many ways of belonging: individuality and conformity, community, rituals, ideas of self, symbols and belief systems.
1 2
FILIPPO AND FILIPPINO LIPPI. INGEGNO E BIZZARRIE NELL’ARTE DEL RINASCIMENTO
Until 25 August Musei Capitolini
The exhibition centres on the golden age of the Italian Renaissance in Florence and Rome, focusing on some of the masterpieces of Fra’ Filippo Lippi and his son Filippino, heir to his father’s genius. The exhibition presents some splendid paintings and drawings that illustrate the artistic contribution of both masters.
RAPHAEL, TITIAN, RUBENS. MASTERPIECES FROM GALLERIA BORGHESE
Until 28 July
Palazzo Barberini
The National Galleries of Ancient Art and Galleria Borghese join forces in an unprecedented collaboration. A unique, unmissable opportunity to bring together two collection that share a similar history, linked to two crucial figures of 17t century Roman political and cultural life, Maffeo Barberini and Scipione Borghese, in an ideal historical and cultural proximity. 3
EMOTION. CONTEMPORARY ART TELLS THE STORY OF EMOTIONS
Until 29 September 2025
Chiostro del Bramante
The exhibition describes the emotions of twenty artists through more than twenty works, many of which are site specific, to tell visitors which and how many emotions inspire an artist, for example, or how many are retained within the work, or what a spectator feels in front of a given work.
THEATRE. AUTHORS, ACTORS AND PUBLIC IN ANCIENT ROME
Until 3 November
Ara Pacis Museum 6
The theatrical performances, the actors and all aspects of the “ludi” (games) in Ancient Rome recounted in the exhibition hosted at the Ara Pacis Museum give us a remarkable cross section of life in the ancient past. The exhibition features more than 240 works from 25 different lenders with an exhibition itinerary full of authentic rarities such as the Atic cup from the Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Florence.
IMPRESSIONISTS. THE DAWN OF MODERNITY
Until 28 July
Museo Storico della Fanteria
The exhibition - a large gallery of around 200 works, with paintings, drawings, watercolours, sculptures, ceramics and engravings from private collections - documents the origins and history of the artistic movement born in France in the mid-nineteenth century. The undisputed protagonists of the journey are the masters of Impressionism, such as Monet, Degas, Manet, Renoir, Cézanne, Gauguin and Pissarro. 5
FOR MORE DETAILS AND RESERVATIONS, ASK YOUR “LES CLEFS D’OR” CONCIERGE
RISTORANTE TULLIO
Locale Storico di Roma fondato nel 1950 e gestito tuttora dalla famiglia da ben 3 generazioni
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI
Piazza di Spagna, 33 Roma
FENDI
Largo Carlo Goldoni, 420 Roma
CUCINELLI
Via dei Condotti, 58 Roma
LIGHT-HEARTED EVENINGS
With colourful accessories, vibrant dresses and precious jewels to light up the tan
BY Francesca Lombardi
Piazza di Spagna, 94-100
Roma
Piazza di Spagna, 38 Roma
DOLCE&GABBANA
VALENTINO
DOLCE&GABBANA
Piazza di Spagna, 94-100
Roma
TASTE OF THE SEA
The jewels this summer are youthful, slender and colourful: they remind us of our teenage holidays
LOUIS VUITTON
Via dei Condotti, 13
Roma
Via dei Condotti, 92
Roma
GUCCI
Via dei Condotti, 8
Roma
PRADA
EXECUTIVE CHEF
RISTORANTE DA’MARE
Via Sicilia, 47 - 00187 Roma
tel. +39 065575012
damareroma.it
Dal Lunedì al Venerdì 12:30 - 15:00 / 19:00 - 00:30 Sabato 18:30 - 01:00 Domenica Chiuso
DAVIDE CIANETTI
Via Tomacelli, 147-152
Roma
FENDI
Largo Carlo Goldoni, 420 Roma
STEFANO RICCI
(IN) FORMAL ELEGANCE
Neutral colours, refined materials and classic shapes: the style of the holidays
FERRAGAMO
Via dei Condotti, 65
Roma
TOD’S
Via Fontanella Borghese, 56/A-57 Roma
DOLCE&GABBANA
Piazza di Spagna, 94-100
Roma
PiazzadelCampidoglio
EMBRACED BY THE BEAUTY
A tour of the most iconic squares in Rome
TEXT Teresa Favi
It is in Rome, the world’s first metropolis, that the concept of ‘piazza’ as the heart of the public life. Even today it is the square with its history, its bustle, its curiosities that takes pride of place in the city. Although Rome is full of amazingly charming squares - from the largest Piazza San Pietro to the smallest ones, Piazza Rondanini near the Pantheon and Piazza de’ Ricci behind Via di Monserrato - this tour explores Rome’s most iconic piazzas, architectural gems and home to masterworks that everyone should see at least once in a lifetime.
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA
It owes its name to the building housing the Embassy of Spain to the Holy See, at street number 57, and it is probably Rome’s best-known square. What makes it so famous is the monumental baroque-style staircase of Trinità dei Monti (the one in the iconic
Roman Holiday scene with Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn): 136 steps leading to the Church of Trinità dei Monti and the almost 14-meter high Sallustiano obelisk. From here you can admire Piazza di Spagna in all its glorious beauty. Located in the middle of the square is the Barcaccia, one of the city’s most-visited fountains, designed by Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo. In the late 1700s, this area was so popular with British visitors travelling on the Grand Tour that the Romans renamed it “er gheto de l’inglesi “ (the British gheto). To the lef of the Spanish Steps is the famous Babington’s tea room, established in 1893. Every year, from April to midMay, the Spanish Steps are covered with pink azaleas. An over 80-year-old tradition and definitely the most magical time of the year to visit this square.
CONCIERGE SUGGESTS
Leonardo Cassani CONCIERGE HOTEL HASSLER
While there are many well-known squares that everyone must see, many of Rome's most beautiful squares don’t always fall on the typical tourist path. So, keep an eye out for these exquisite piazzas when you’re in town: Piazza San Simeone San Simeone known for a charming 16th century fountain designed by Giacomo Della Porta; Piazza Margana just a few steps away from Piazza Venezia with its evocative ancient atmosphere; Piazza Madonna dei Monti - one of the gathering places of the Rione Monti, the city’s oldest district but also a dynamic neighbourhood dotted with trendy little places, vintage stores, aperitif bars and Roman trattorias.
Above: Piazza Navona
Below: Piazza della Rotonda (ph.ValentinaStefanelli)
Themonumentalbaroque-stylestaircase of Trinità dei Monti (ph.ValentinaStefanelli)
The Vittoriano (ph.ValentinaStefanelli) and Piazza Venezia
PIAZZA NAVONA
A wonderful example of the Baroque at its finest. Piazza Navona is the backdrop to works of art by two of the greatest artists of all time: Gian Lorenzo Bernini, whose Fountain of the Four Rivers dominates the middle of the square, and Francesco Borromini, Bernini’s great rival, who designed the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. An interesting fact about the name: the square was built upon the site of the ancient Stadium of Domitian used for gladiator shows, the so-called Agones (the ancient Greek name for games), a word that over time changed into Navona. The remains of the ancient site are located at a depth of about 5 to 6 meters below the current street level and are still visible underneath a modern building on Piazza di Tor Sanguigna and in the underground tunnels of the Church of Sant’Agnese in Agone. To
the west of Piazza Navona are many other interesting sights, such as the Church
THE BEAUTY OF ROME’S SQUARES HAS BEEN ONE OF THE CITY’S MAIN ATTRACTIONS.
IT IS IN ROME, IN FACT, THE WORLD’S FIRST METROPOLIS, THAT THE CONCEPT OF ‘PIAZZA’ AS THE HEART OF THE PUBLIC LIFE
of Santa Maria della Pace housing the famous fresco by Raphael, Sibyls, and the
Chiostro del Bramante, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture which now serves as an art exhibition space. Located between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon is the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi, known all over the world because it houses three paintings by Caravaggio about the life of St. Mathew.
PIAZZA DELLA ROTONDA
Known as Piazza del Pantheon, this square houses one of Rome’s most outstanding monuments, the Pantheon, the best-preserved and one of the oldest ancient Roman buildings (a Christian church since the year 609 A.C.). It is almost a perfect sphere, 43 metres in diameter and vaunting a concrete dome with an oculus. Located on the square is also one of the world’s oldest hotels, Albergo del Sole, whose existence has been documented as far back as the 1400s, when it was known as Locanda del Montone.
+39 06 68803140
Aperto dal lunedi al sabato a cena Chiuso domenica tutto il giorno
VICOLO DELLA CANCELLERIA, 36 00186 ROMA
A plaque on the façade mentions the illustrious figures who stayed there, such as Ludovico Ariosto and Pietro Mascagni. Just off the Piazza is the Casa del Caffè Tazza d’Oro, an old roastery and café, where you can taste the famous coffee granita.
PIAZZA DEL CAMPIDOGLIO
The Piazza, which houses the Campidoglio, Rome’s city hall, was designed in 1538 by Michelangelo Buonarroti, who also designed the buildings which are now home to the Capitoline Museums, where the original bronze equestrian monument to Emperor Marcus Aurelius is kept, the
replica of which stands in the middle of the square. The Piazza affords a breath-
ARCHITECTURAL GEMS AND HOME TO MASTERWORKS
THAT EVERYONE SHOULD SEE AT LEAST ONCE IN A LIFETIME
rio). Perhaps not everybody knows that, through narrow streets running to the side of Palazzo Senatorio, the City Hall’s building, you can reach two tiny terraces giving onto the Imperial Fora, the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. Keep it in mind when visiting the square in the evening, at sunset.
PIAZZA VENEZIA
taking view of the fora (through the arch to the right of Palazzo Senato-
The Vitoriano (the national monument to King Vittorio Emanuele II) and the Altare della Patria dominate Piazza Venezia, a large and very busy crossroads, where 5 major downtown roads converge. The square owes its name to the grand fifeenth-century building
Palazzo Venezia, donated to the Republic of Venice as seat of its Embassy to Rome. If you walk up to one of the Altare della Patria’s terraces or to the top of the monument, you will enjoy a unique panoramic view of the Piazza and of Rome’s roofops. PIAZZA DEL POPOLO
This square, used for centuries for executions (the last one was carried out in 1826), originally featured only a public fountain, a drinking trough for horses and a washing basin. Redesigned several times over the centuries, Piazza del Popolo owes its current elliptical shape to the neoclassical design by Giuseppe Valadier in
1823. Since then, it has been Rome’s most Parisian-style piazza. In order to enjoy it in all its splendor, you have to reach it from Porta del Popolo. From this visual angle, you can take in the two twin churches, Santa Maria in Montesanto and Santa Maria dei Miracoli, the fountain and one of Rome’s tallest obelisks dating back to the age of Ramesses II ( 1220 B.C. circa). From the two, nearly identical churches three streets branch out, the so-called Tridente: Via del Babbuino, Via del Corso and Via di Ripeta. From the square you can easily reach the Terrazza del Pincio, one of Rome’s most scenic spots.
PIAZZA SAN PIETRO
Our last stop is the Vatican, Piazza San Pietro! A spectacularly large-sized square, 23,000 square meters, designed by Bernini and built between 1656 and 1667. It features an elliptical shape and is enclosed within two magnificent colonnades with 284 columns. The Basilica of San Pietro and the Vatican Museums are mustsees once you have reached Piazza San Pietro, but we suggest to explore them from an unusual perspective, that is, by booking a visit of the beautiful Vatican Gardens, doted with defensive works, monuments, grotos and fountains.
Piazza San Pietro
Incastonato fra le piazze più belle ed i vicoli più affascinanti di Roma, Il Falcheto propone una cucina curata, atenta alle materie prime. Nato alla fine dell’800 come distilleria, Il Falcheto è uno dei più antichi ristoranti di Roma e vanta il primato di “Antica Botega Storica”, onoreficenza riconosciutagli dal Comune di Roma per i suoi 100 anni di atività.
Via dei Montecatini, 12 - 00186 Roma | tel. 066791160 | ristoranteilfalchetto.it | IG: il_falchetto
REGINA VIARUM
A road that is unique in the world, studded with museums and catacombs, but also surrounded by nature
TEXT Francesca Lombardi | PHOTO Valentina Stefanelli
BY THE POET STATIUS 'REGINA VIARUM’,
IN THE 1ST CENTURY AD
Despite its 2,300 years, the Appian Way is still one of the world’s loveliest, most fascinating roads. Called ‘Regina Viarum’, by the poet Statius in the 1st century AD, construction of the Via Appia began in 312 AD at the behest of the Consul Appius Claudius Caecus, and lasted until 190 AD when the road was completed, ending at he port of Brindisi.
The Appian Way, 365 miles (540 kilometres) long, which opened the way to the Mediterranean through the most important port for Greece, was built of flagstones and designed to be straight for its entire length, with a width of four meters to allow passage of two wagons in both directions. In the Middle Ages, the Appia was crossed by pilgrims to reach the destinations in the Holy Land. Subsequently, having lost its function as a major communication
route, the Queen of roads was rediscovered only during the Renaissance by great artists and architects such as Raphael and Bramante with the idea of recovering and enhancing the prestige of the classical world.
The Appian Way begins from the marvellous Porta di San Sebastiano, the largest gate in the Aurelian walls, built between 270 and 275 AD by emperor Aurelian to defend Rome from atacks by the Barbarians. The Gate, which features two imposing semi-circular towers, houses the Museum of the Walls of Rome, which can be visited every day from 9am to 2pm, except Mondays. Our journey into history begins beyond the Gate, and the cobblestones we walk on are the first testimony of this.
To make walking easier, the road remains closed to traffic during weekdays and has places where you can rent
CONCIERGE SUGGESTS
RossellaBattaglia
Embark on an unforgettable journey through history by taking a bike tour along the Via Appia Antica, one of Rome's oldest and most historically significant roads.
This ancient route offers a picturesque escape from the city's hustle and bustle, immersing you in Rome's rich past.
Biking along the Via Appia Antica is a fantastic way to blend physical activity with an educational adventure through one of the city's most iconic paths.
Enjoy the ride and the timeless beauty of ancient Rome!
CHEF CONCIERGE VILLA AGRIPPINA GRAN MELIÁ
Above: the Circus of Maxentius
Below: the Catacombs of Saint Callixtus
bicycles, nurseries where you can buy plants and places to eat and feel the breath of history.
All the archaeological sites along the Appia Antica can also be visited on weekends. A brief visit to the small church Domine Quo Vadis is recommended as a first stop: built in the 11th century, it houses a copy of the cast of Christ’s feet is imprinted. According to tradition, Saint Peter, who was fleeing from Rome to escape persecution by Nero, having reached the crossroads between Via Appia Antica and Via Ardeatina, had a vision of Christ to whom he asked: “Lord, where are you going?” (Quo vadis, Domine?), and the Lord replied: “I am going to the city to be crucified again.”
Miraculously, Christ’s footprint was impressed on the Appian stone, visible today on a small marble slab in the centre of the church.
Underground along this
SITES ALONG THE APPIA ANTICA CAN ALL THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL
ALSO BE VISITED ON WEEKENDS.
stretch of the Appian Way are the San Callisto catacombs, which were built towards the middle of the second century and are among the largest and most remarkable in Rome. Dozens of martyrs, sixteen pontiffs
THE APPIAN WAY BEGINS FROM THE MARVELLOUS PORTA DI SAN SEBASTIANO, THE LARGEST GATE IN THE AURELIAN WALLS
and many Christians were buried in them, thus it became the official cemetery of the Church of Rome.
The name Catacombs, which by extension now indicates all the ancient underground cemeteries , was
given in 4th century Rome to a special underground place where the basilica of San Sebastiano stands today and called ad catacumbas (i.e. “cavity ”) due to the presence of pozzolana quarries. Today, in addition to the beautiful San Sebastiano catacombs, the church of the same name can also be visited.
Over the centuries, the Basilica has undergone a total remodelling, completed in the 17th century by Vasanzio, to whom we also owe the remarkable, intricately carved wooden ceiling, still visible inside the Basilica.
Catching your eye as you enter on the lef is the chapel of San Sebastiano, where the crypt houses a fine statue of the saint pierced by arrows by sculptor Giuseppe Giorgeti.
Walking a litle further on, we come to the Maxentius complex, a Roman circus erected around 311 by
emperor Maxentius. The complex, built on the third mile of the Appian Way, also included the villa and the mausoleum of his son Valerius Romolus.
The circus, today standing solitary and totally surrounded by greenery, was over 500 metres long and 90 metres wide and able to accommodate 10,000 spectators as it was reserved only for the imperial family and friends (the Circus Maximus, by comparison, could accommodate 150,000).
Further on, is the impressive Tomb of Cecilia Metella, a colossal, cylindrical tomb, 11 meters high and with a diameter of 30 metres,
built for the Roman noblewoman in 50 B C, which is the most striking picture
THE APPIA ANTICA PARK IS 15 KM LONG, WHICH CAN BE COVERED ON FOOT OR BY BICYCLE, AN IMMERSION
IN
THE LAZIO
COUNTRYSIDE
postcard image we have and somewhat an emblem of the road.
We have told you something about the initial kilometres of the beautiful Park which winds along the Appian Way.
The further you get from the city along its 15k length, which can be covered on foot or by bike, the more immersion in the Lazio countryside becomes a totally relaxing experience.
The museums and catacombs are concentrated in the first section, open from Tuesday to Sunday (except the catacombs which can also be visited on Mondays) with opening hours that you can consult on the website parcoarcheologicoappiaantica.it
The Basilica of San Sebastiano outside the walls
TorreTruglia
SPERLONGA: LEGEND AND LIFESTYLE
Exploring the coast of southern Lazio
TEXT Teresa Favi | PHOTO Riccardo De Simone
View of the Villa of Tiberius
In 1959 the celebrated writer Pier Paolo Pasolini (whose centenary falls this year) was commissioned by Successo magazine to travel the coast of Italy and produce the reportage The Long Road of Sand. In it he describes Sperlonga, the ancient fishing village perched on a rocky promontory high above the sea of southern Lazio, its origins steeped in legend: “Soon afer, at a fork in the road, I’m stopped by two Germans, a young couple, practically teenagers (on their way to Sicily) [...]. You should see them in Sperlonga... they’re literally crazy about the place: they can’t get their heads around the physical and actual reality of being in these narrow streets, the white casbah, with incredible views of the sea at sunset [...]”. Sperlonga is listed as one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages. It lies on the famous Ulysses Riviera in the province of Latina,
which runs from San Felice Circeo to Gaeta, where the hero of the Odyssey is said to have visited, lured by the
AMONG THE MOST BEAUTIFUL VILLAGES IN ITALY FOR ITS SPECTACULAR FUSION OF NATURE, SPONTANEOUS ARCHITECTURE AND GREAT ARCHAEOLOGY FROM THE ROMAN ERA
sorceress Circe.
Today the village’s soul still lies in its maze of narrow streets, its staircases and
its whitewashed houses, which give it an exquisitely Mediterranean flavour and, since the 50s, have won the hearts of world-famous writers, artists and intellectuals. In the Seventies, during the summer in Sperlonga, you could meet personalities such as Louis Waldon, one of Andy Warhol’s favourite actors, with his retinue of famous artists, writers and jazz musicians, including Steve Lacy, Giovanni Tommaso, Gerard Malanga, Nico, Joe Dallessandro, Paul Morrissey, John Paul Gety III and Warhol himself, frequent visitors at the restaurant he opened in Via Madonnella. Or the legendary Raf Vallone, among the first to discover Sperlonga while he was filming No Peace Under the Olive Tree, directed by Giuseppe De Santis. Not forgeting the great director Luchino Visconti, whose sister Uberta lived near Lago Lungo: there’s a wonderful
photo of him with his nephew Giovanni and niece Anna Gastel on the beach at Sperlonga.
But what makes this seafaring town truly memorable is the Cave of Tiberius, which also contains a swimming pool belonging to Tiberius’ Villa, discovered in the late 50s and one of many built for the Roman emperor in pleasant places by the sea, such as Capri.
A route we recommend runs from the port up the narrow streets to Via Madonnella and from there to the Piazzeta, from where you can go back down towards the beach, and walk along the shore to the Archeological
SPERLONGA'S ROCKY COASTLINE
EMBRACES
THE MEDITERRANEAN
SEA AND OFFERS
CRYSTAL-CLEAR WATER, FINE, CLEAR SAND AND PERFECT
CURRENTS THAT ENSURE THE WATER IS ALWAYS PERFECT
Museum, which I’m very fond of, because my father worked there”. The museum, which along with the Villa and the Cave, makes a fascinating joint atraction, contains some extraordinary finds from the 1st century AD (original Greek artefacts from the Hellenistic period) unearthed in the Villa of Tiberius, including the large sculptures of well-muscled figures inspired by the adventures of Homer’s hero, which originally adorned the emperor’s cave. This series of sculptures is known as the Marble Odyssey and includes Ulysses in the act of blinding Polyphemus, the
The remains of the Villa of Tiberius extend for three hundred meters on the beach andaroundasuggestivenaturalcave
famous head of Ulysses and the Scylla group, the most impressive ever created on the subject and the most complex group of antiquity. Here, where legend blends with crystal-clear water, idyllic surroundings and a sense of privacy that’s hard to find in other parts of the Ulysses Riviera, beach and sea are undoubtedly a source of pride. Our favorite beach is the free Ponente beach or the Lido da Rocco, a long-established, wellequipped beach club, but a piece of good advice is to hire a boat at the port and follow the coastline down to Gaeta, exploring the inlets and coves. In the evening, sunset
from the Truglia Tower is absolutely magical. On the horizon you can see Cape Circeo and the islands of
AMONG THE MOST FAMOUS BEACHS ARE THE CANZATORA AND SALETTE
Ponza and Palamarola”. For shopping, we recommend Artigianstrame Casalé in Piazza della Rimembranza for hats, bags and baskets woven from straw for five
generations, and Soscia in Corso San Leone, a historic grocer’s shop opened in 1925 where you can stock up on buffalo mozzarella, bread cooked in the wood oven, tielle (stuffed pizza) and Gaeta olives. For aperitifs the place to be is Civico 29, an exclusive cocktail bar ssuspended between sea and sky.
Lunch at the central Archi, at Via Otaviano, 17: tagliolini with baby octopus, courgete flowers filled with ricota and anchovies. Dine at the restaurant of Hotel Amyclae at Via Cristoforo Colombo 77: right on the beach, with stunning views and the freshest fish.
Since 1804 we have been telling the story
mercoledì - lunedì: 19.30 - 23.00
sabato e domenica: 12:00 - 15:00 / 19:30 - 23:00
martedì chiusi
Via Appia Antica, 139 ph. +39 06 788
Ferrari, Fall-Winter 2024-25 Collection
LIGHT & ENERGY OF THE BODY
The new Ferrari FW24-25 collection is a declaration of love for the body
TEXT Francesca Lombardi
An ode to the body, energy and light. Through the words of Ferrari Creative Director Rocco Iannone, the idea that fashion must always take the human body into account clearly emerges.
The FW 24-25 collection in fact asks what a body is capable of thanks to a garment, trying to invent a new order of pleasure.
Garments are no longer form to rise up by force. They are not figures, they are not geometries superimposed on each other: they are energies that enter and exit inside our lives, stretch our bodies, make them shiny or opaque, make them shine or disappear in the landscape. And this is how the black that emerges from the liquid appearance of surfaces. Surfaces that reflect and amplify
the color black by generating nuances of silver, metal and white, in its maximum refraction. There is no light without darkness.
Red is present, but only as reminder of that passion, the emotion and desire that the body is capable of. «This
THE FW 24-25 COLLECTION
INVENTS A NEW ORDER OF PLEASURE
darkness full of light is the mother, the original ferment, the pure blood of all things, of all forms, the life of all forces. Red and black” declares Rocco Iannone, designer of a collection that is an expression of sensuality and dynamism. And so, in a succession of ar-
chetypal tailoring fabrics, such as flannel and worsted wools or an indigo denim weave, we come to leather, crisp and highly polished, to shiny chain embroideries on neted yarns and couture silk weavings with metal that dance sinuously with palpable and drapable satins, ethereal and reflective organza, iridescent froissé velvets and sof shearling. Accessories also follow the same trajectory, alternating classic handcrafed leather constructions with a sporty metamorphosis. Among the bags are the GT Bag, in shearling, nappa leather and with puffy effects, the compact surfaces of the Maranello Clutch, also in a red version studded with shaded crystals, and the new ladylike models inspired by the travel trunks of the 1960s. To close the circle, elegant couture gloves derived from the racing world.
Da Francesco PiazzadelFico,29(Roma) ph.+39066864009 dafrancesco.it
AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS
Sixty years of authenticity and hospitality - the story of Da Francesco Roma
TEXT Martina Olivieri
Afew steps from Piazza Navona, in an unparalleled historical seting, stands Da Francesco Roma. For over sixty years, this restaurant has proudly carried on quality, hospitality and tradition in the heart of the capital. It all began in 1957, when Francesco Boni and Amalia Tognoloni took over a place in Piazza del Fico, transforming it into somewhere that would become a landmark for those wanting to savour the most authentic, genuine dishes from in an around Rome. Today, now in its third generation, the restaurant continues to delight its guests with traditional dishes, enriched with some contemporary touches, in a convivial and family atmosphere. Spread over two floors, it is designed
to satisfy every need. The room on the upper floor is perfect for events, tastings and anniversaries, guaranteeing the right amount of
DA FRANCESCO ROMA DELIGHTS ITS GUESTS WITH TRADITIONAL DISHES, ENRICHED WITH SOME CONTEMPORARY TOUCHES
tranquillity and privacy. At the helm of the restaurant is Federico Esposito, who manages a young, capable team with passion and de-
termination, offering an informal but always atentive service. “You feel like you’re at home here,” says Esposito. “The atmosphere is family-like and it’s our pleasure to pamper our customers.” Great atention is also paid to the extensive wine list, which includes the major Italian wine areas, as well as a targeted selection of champagne and French wines. Much more than a restaurant, Da Francesco Roma is a real journey into the flavours of Roman cuisine, where each dish tells a story of passion and tradition. The ideal place for those looking for an authentic and unforgetable culinary experience, where the past and the present meet in a perfect balance of flavours and hospitality that embraces everyone.
TOP PLACES TO SEE IN ROME
Museums, churches and all the atractions that you should not miss in city. Reservations are recommended in some museums, ask your ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge
MUSEUMS AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES
COLOSSEUM
Designed to hold 50,00075,000 spectators coming to see the fights between gladiators and ferocious animals, the Colosseum is the largest amphitheatre from Antiquity, a symbol of Rome and one of the seven wonders of the world.
A water system fed various fountains and allowed for naumachiae, mock naval batles. Piazza del Colosseo, 1 ph. +39 06 39967700 parcocolosseo.it
Closed: January 1, December 25
FOR0 AND PALATINO
The Arch of Constantine links the Palatine Hill, adding to the houses of Livia and Augustus, and the Forums built along the Via Sacra and beyond the Arch of
Titus, up towards the Capotiline Hill and the Sacred Largo Argentina area, that is reopened and equipped for disabled people.
At the same time, the emperors paid homage to themselves by building their own squares, known as Fori.
Fori Imperiali | Foro Romano | Palatino: ticket office Piazza della Madonna di Loreto and Via della Salara Vecchia ph. +39 06 39967700 coopculture.it
Closed: January 1, December 25
THE BATHS OF CARACALLA
Inaugurated by Caracalla in 216 CE, they extended for 10 hectares, vaunted a sophisticated water system for its tepidarium, calidarium, frigidarium and two gymnasiums, and included a Mithraeum, the god venerated by young soldiers.
Priceless materials stripped from the structure were recycled to build Santa Maria in Trastevere.
Viale delle Terme di Caracalla, 52 ph. +39 06 39967702 coopculture.it
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
CATACOMBS
These underground cemeteries carved into tuff rock were decorated with Christian symbols and located, for reasons of hygiene, outside the city walls. Beginning in the 2nd century, martyrs, Christians and Jews were all buried in them. The most evocative, near the Appian Way, are the catacombs of Domitilla, Lucilla, Callixtus, St. Sebastian and the Ardeatine.
CIRCO MASSIMO
A portion of the area gives us an idea of the original purpose of this stadium, 120 metres wide and 620 metres long, likely the largest structure ever built to stage spectacles and able to seat 250,000 people. It was used for horse races and a market. This is also where the Rape of the Sabine Women occurred. Today, it is a popular place for hosting large events.
Via del Circo Massimo ph. +39 06 0608 sovraintendenzaroma.it
Closed: January 1, May 1 (variable), December 25
StanzediRaffaello, Vatincan Museums
CASTEL SANT’ANGELO
The mausoleum of Emperor Hadrian, it later became Castel Sant’Angelo. Thanks to its secret passage connecting it to the Vatican, it was transformed into a fortress and refuge for popes. It was later a prison, barracks and museum. Inside, there are frescoes by Pinturicchio, while the bronze angel was made by Peter Anton von Verschaffelt in 1753. Lungotevere Castello, 50 ph. +39 06 6819111 castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
VATICAN MUSEUMS AND SISTINE CHAPEL
This collection of buildings houses one of the most impressive and visited art museums in the world.
Another highlight, in addition to the Gallery of Geographical Maps, is the Pinacoteca, which conserves artworks, including pieces by Leonardo, Gioto, Titian, Reni, Caravaggio and Raphael. The later’s
masterpiece, however, can be found in Julius II’s apartments, today known as the Raphael Rooms. Near there is the Pauline Chapel, which conserves frescoes by Michelangelo, and the Sistine Chapel. The walls were frescoed by Boticelli, Perugino and Signorelli, while the ceiling is Michelangelo’s triumphant. On the wall behind the altar, Last Judgement. Viale Vaticano ph. +39 06 69884676 museivaticani.va
Closed: Sunday (except for the last of the month), January 1, February 11, March 19, April 22, May 1, June 29, August 14 and 15, November 1, December 25 and 26
GALLERIA
BORGHESE
The gallery, adjacent to the villa that dominates the Pincian Hill, is considered the most important museum in the world for its collection of artworks by Bernini and Caravaggio, including the former’s Apollo and Daphne, the later’s Young Sick Bacchus and The Deposition by Raphael. Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 ph. + 39 06 8413979 galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it Closed: January 1, December 25
MUSEI CAPITOLINI
Housed inside Palazzo dei Conservatori and Palazzo Nuovo, in the piazza redesigned by Michelangelo, the museums conserve artworks like the Capitoline Wolf, the original statue of Marcus Aurelius, the Dying Gaul, Bernini’s Medusa and The Fortune Teller by Caravaggio. A section of the museum is now in the Centrale Montemartini.
Piazza del Campidoglio, 1 ph. +39 06 0608 museicapitolini.org
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
GNAM – GALLERIA
NAZIONALE DI ARTE MODERNA
Designed by architect, Cesare Bazzani, the National Gallery houses Italian masterpieces
from the 19th and 20th centuries. Divided into two sections, the exhibition space was built for the International Exhibition and showcases works by the Macchiaioli, Futurists (Boccioni and Balla), Chini, Modigliani, Gutuso and De Chirico, as well as Klimt, Monet, Cézanne, Mondrian, Kandinsky.
Viale delle Belle Arti, 131 ph. +39 06 32298221 lagallerianazionale.com
Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25
IL VITTORIANO
Named the Vitorio Emanuele II Monument at its inauguration, it is also known as the Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland) and was built to commemorate Italian liberation. Built like a modern Roman Forum, it houses the Museum of the Risorgimento and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Today, it houses temporary exhibitions and features a large terrace with a view of the city.
Il Vitoriano: Via di San Pietro in Carcere ph. +39 06 8715111 ilvitoriano.com
Museo centrale del Risorgimento al Vitoriano: Closed Easter, week of August 15, December 25 ; Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site
PALAZZO BARBERINI AND GALLERIA CORSINI
The galleries housed here showcase artworks including gems like Raphael’s Portrait of a Young Woman and Holbein’s Portrait of Henry VIII, as well as pieces by Van Dyck, Tintoreto and Titian. Built by Maderno for Pope Urban VIII, features a salone with Barberini Power by Pietro da Cortona. Palazzo Barberini:
Via delle Quatro Fontane, 13 ph. +39 06 4814591
Closed: Monday, January 1, December 25
Galleria Corsini: Via della Lungara, 10 ph. +39 06 68802323
Closed: Tuesday , January 1, December 25
barberinicorsini.org
SCUDERIE
DEL QUIRINALE
Up until 1938 it was used as a stables and carriage house, afer which it housed the Carriage Museum. Built on top of the ruins of the Roman temple of Serapis, the
building boasts a view from the highest point of Rome’s historic hills.
The Scuderie was restored by the international architect Gae Aulenti for the Jubilee in 2000 and is today one of the main sites for large exhibitions.
Via XXIV Maggio, 16 scuderiequirinale.it
Timetable of temporary exhibitions on the site.
GALLERIA
DORIA PAMPHILJ
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is the biggest palace that still serves as a residence and is home to important private art collections. The gallery features works by Titian, Raphael, Caravaggio, Parmigianino, Lorrain, Sebastiano del Piombo, Bronzino and Bernini, as well as Vélazquez’s most famous
portrait. The palace apartments and private chapel can be accessed via the gallery. Via del Corso, 305 ph. +39 06 6797323
doriapamphilj.it
Closed: third Wednesday of the month, January 1, Easter, December 25
MAXXI
The museum features art from the 21st century and was built on the site of an old army barracks, the Caserma Montello, near the Auditorium Parco della Musica by Renzo Piano. The interior space is dedicated to international avant-garde movements and the first gallery of Contemporary Architecture.
Works on display include pieces by Boeti, De Dominicis, Kapoor, Richter and Catelan.
Via Guido Reni, 4A ph. +39 06 3201954 maxxi.art
Closed: Monday, May 1, December 25
MUSEO
DELL’ARA PACIS
Intended to celebrate peace in Spain and Gaul, the Ara Pacis was consecrated in 9
BCE between via Flaminia and the Mausoleum of Augustus. Decorated with the achievements of Emperor Augustus and portraits of the Giulio-Claudia gens, it has been enclosed in a protective building made of steel and marble designed by Meier since 2006.
Lungotevere in Augusta (corner via Tomacelli) ph. +39 06 0608 arapacis.it
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
QUIRINALE
The hill, also called Cavallo (horse) because of the statues of the Dioscuri found in the square, has always been the home of powerful people. First
the popes from Gregory III to Pius IX, and then Napoleon. It was also the king’s home and finally the residence of the President of the Republic. The majestic walls of the palace preserve beautiful tapestries, antique clocks and porcelain, as well as the beautiful elliptical by Mascarino and the staircase of Honour.
Piazza del Quirinale ph. +39 06 3996 7557 palazzo.quirinale.it
FORUM STUDIOS
Founded in 1970 by Ennio Morricone, Forum Studios in Rome represent a landmark in music and cinema history. For the first time ever, the historic Studios will open their doors to guests with a number of customisable exclusive visits and experiences inside the most famous Italian recording studios in the world.
A cross between Baroque and Neoclassicism, the largest fountain in Rome reflects the story of the Augustus-era Aqua Virgo.
It was rebuilt multiple times in Antiquity and enlarged by Bernini but finished only in the late 18th century. Traditional says that if visitors to throw a coin into the fountain, they will return to the city one day.
Piazza di Trevi
SCALINATA
TRINITÀ DEI MONTI
Imposing and scenic, its shape narrowing and widening as it climbs, it connects the Church of Trinità dei Monti to piazza di Spagna. Afer centuries of development, the stairway was built in 1726 based on a design by the architect Francesco De Sanctis.
Its beauty is exalted in the spring, when the flowers are in bloom.
Piazza di Spagna
COLONNA TRAIANA
Ancient Roman at its finest, it is the first coclide column, erected in 113 to celebrate the victory over Dacia (today Romania), with scenes from the war depicted across a spiral, chronological frieze. Forty metres tall, it con-
serves the ashes of Trajan and is located in what was Trajan’s Forum. Sixtus V replaced the statue at the top with one of St. Peter.
Via dei Fori Imperiali
TEATRO MARCELLO
Begun by Caesar and located between the Tiber and the Capitoline Hill, it was completed and enlarged by Augustus. In the Middle Ages, it was used for houses and workshops. Restored in the 1920s, it is one of the few and
oldest theatres remaining, and over the centuries, it has been used as a model for theatres and amphitheatres.
Via del Teatro di Marcello
COLONNA
DI MARCO AURELIO
It’s located opposite Palazzo Chigi, in the exact spot where it was erected by Commodus in 190 to celebrate the victories of his father Marcus Aurelius over the Germanic people. Forty metres tall, the frieze winds for 110 metres and was inspired by Trajan’s Column. In 1589, Sixtus V replaced the Roman statue on top with an effigy of St. Paul.
Piazza Colonna
ARCO DI COSTANTINO
With its three arches, it is the largest triumphal arch in Rome and symbolically inaugurates via dei Fori. The Senate dedicated it to Emperor Constantine in 315. Recent studies have dated it to the era of Hadrian, however. The decorations show a variety of styles, from classical to medieval: a veritable open-air “museum”.
Via di San Gregorio
PYRAMID
OF CAIUS CESTIUS
Gaius Cestius wrote in his will that the tomb must be built in only 330 days, lest his heirs be excluded from his rich patrimony. Erected out in 18 BCE and 36 metres tall, it was covered in marble and inspired by the Pyramids of Giza.
Via Raffaele Persicheti
CHURCHES
BASILICA DI SAN PIETRO IN VATICANO
St. Peter’s Basilica is the most fascinating place in the world. In addition to priceless relics and interesting tombs, there are many masterpieces inside St. Peter’s, including the Pietà, sculpted and signed by young Michelangelo, and the lavish canopy by Bernini. The bronze
statue of the saint is by Arnolfo di Cambio, while the towering round dome is by Michelangelo, who was inspired by Brunelleschi’s dome in Florence.
Piazza San Pietro vatican.va
ARCIBASILICA
DI SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO
This is the city’s cathedral and the first of the four papal basilicas. Built by Constantine following the First Council of Nicaea in 325, this is where Pope Boniface VIII announced the first Jubilee in 1300. The Constantine-era mosaics, Cosmatesque floor and ciborium remain, while the incredible “rooms of light” by Borromini can still be seen today.
Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano, 4 vatican.va
BASILICA DI SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA
This was the cemetery where St. Paul was buried. The church, built by Constantine, is one of the four papal basilicas, the second largest afer St. Peter’s and also called Ostiense.
Vaunting an imposing colonnade, it was destroyed by a fire and rebuilt as it was. The ciborium by Arnolfo di Cambio is priceless, while the mosaic portraits of all the popes is a rare masterpiece.
Piazzale San Paolo, 1 basilicasanpaolo.org
BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE
The church, one of the four papal basilicas, maintains its original early-Christian structure and was built in the 4th century on the spot where snow is said to have fallen in the summer (commemorated every August 5). Inside also to the oldest Nativity, by Arnolfo di Cambio. Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore, 42 vatican.va
PANTHEON
BASILICA DI SANTA
MARIA AD MARTYRES
Dedicated to all the gods by general Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, it was later rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian. It is
almost a perfect sphere, 43 metres in diameter and vaunting a concrete dome with an oculus.
In addition to Raphael, Annibale Carracci, Perin del Vaga, Margherita di Savoia and kings Umberto I and Vitorio Emanuele II are all buried here.
Piazza della Rotonda pantheonroma.com
Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25
BASILICA DEI SANTI
COSMA E DAMIANO
The basilica is of the first churches built atop ancient buildings, in this case the Forum of Vespasian and the Temple of Romulus, both still visible. The apse contains a 6th-century
mosaic depicting Saints Peter and Paul Presenting Cosmas, Damian, Theodorus, and Pope Felix IV to Christ. The 18th-century Nativity, which sets the scene in Rome, is worth a look. Via dei Fori Imperiali, 1 cosmadamiano.com
BASILICA
DI SAN CLEMENTE
One church atop another between Esquiline and Caelian hills: the first was transformed from an earlier mithraeum built on top of Roman houses. The second (4th century), conserves frescoes dedicated to St. Alexius.
In the upper basilica (12th century), frescoes by Masolino dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria. Via Labicana, 95 basilicasanclemente.com
BASILICA DI SAN
PIETRO IN VINCOLI
Nothing remains of the 5th century church, the Baths of Titus and the Neronian domus. Julius II is buried here, whose tomb was designed by Michelangelo and vaunts his imposing Moses. According to tra-
dition, the church conserves some of the chains that bound St. Peter in the nearby Mamertine Prison, the oldest in Rome. Piazza di San Pietro in Vicoli
BASILICA DI SANTA
MARIA DEGLI ANGELI
E DEI MARTIRI
Built by Michelangelo, who recovered the building without destroying the Frigidarium from the Baths of Diocletian, this church is where official state ceremonies are held. It was completed by Giacomo del Duca and restored by Luigi Vanvitelli. Amongst the works of art conserved here, a modern Igor Mitoraj and a sundial built for the Jubilee.
Piazza della Repubblica
santamariadegliangeliroma.it Closed on Saturdays
BASILICA
DI SANTA MARIA
DEL POPOLO
Built in 1099 with funds offered by the community (popolo in Italian, inspiring the church’s name), it was altered by Maderno, Raphael, Bramante and Bernini, and is decorated with masterpieces like the Crucifixion of St. Peter and the Conversion of St. Paul by Caravaggio in the transept. The Chigi Chapel is splendid, designed by Raphael and restored by Bernini.
Piazza del Popolo, 12 smariadelpopolo.com
BASILICA
DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE
It is the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is said that the church was built where oil miraculously erupted from the ground. Rebuilt in the 12th century with materials taken from the Baths of Caracalla, it conserves a triumph of 13th-century mosaics, many of which are by Pietro Cavallini, as well as the historic
Trastevere CHIESA
DEL GESÙ
It is perhaps the first church built during the Counter-Reformation and was a model for all those that came later. Vaunting a single nave and a barrel vault, the church has a large side pulpit and a central altar. Desired by Ignatius of Loyola (with his breathtaking revolving altarpiece), it is also the mother church of the Society of Jesus.
Via degli Astalli, 16 chiesadelgesu.org
CHIESA DI SAN LUIGI
DEI FRANCESI
The church was completed in 1587 thanks to Catherine de’ Medici. The French church in Rome is famous for its
paintings by Caravaggio, in the Contarelli Chapel, dedicated to St. Mathew with The Calling, The Inspiration and The Martyrdom. The church also conserves frescoes by Domenichino and a copy of Raphael’s Saint Cecilia by Guido Reni.
Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi saintlouis-rome.net
CHIESA DI SAN
PIETRO IN MONTORIO
It is famous for the Tempieto
designed by Bramante. Legend says that St. Peter was martyred here, and Beatrice Cenci has been buried here since her execution in 1599. The Tempieto was commissioned by the Spanish king Ferdinand II of Aragon in the early 16th century to dissolve a vow. Today, the former convent houses the Royal Spanish Academy.
Piazza S. Pietro in Mortorio, 2 sanpietroinmontorio.it
CHIESA
DI SANT’AGNESE IN AGONE
Built atop the Stadium of Domitian, the church is a masterpiece of Baroque architecture, replete with optical illusions. Built according
Madonna Theotókos. Piazza di Santa Maria in
to a Greek-cross plan, it was redesigned by Borromini, who created a concave façade and separated the two bell towers, making it appear as if it were larger. Today, it is also an elegant venue for sacred music concerts.
Piazza Navona corner Via S.Maria dell’Anima, 30/A santagneseinagone.org
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DELLA PACE
Commissioned Sixtus IV following the Pazzi Conspiracy in the hope for a period of peace, the church was altered in the 17th century by Pietro da Cortona. In the Chigi
Chapel designed by Michelangelo, there are paintings by Raphael. The adjacent former convent conserves the Bramante cloister (an exhibition site today); the dome was added in 1524.
Arco della Pace, 5
CHIESA DELLA SANTISSIMA TRINITÀ
DEI MONTI
Overlooking the homonymous staircase by Domenico Fontana, the church vaunts a façade with two bell. Its style is between Baroque and Rococo. Inside frescoes by Daniela da Volterra, including a portrait of Michelangelo and Giovan Batista Naldini.
In front of the church stands an obelisk that was in the Gardens of Sallust.
Piazza della Trinità dei Monti, 3
GARDENS AND PARKS
Villa Ada Savoia on via Salaria is one of the largest parks in Rome, while one of the most beautiful parks is the Villa Torlonia in Nomentano whith lakes and grotos, ex residence of Mussolini.
Located in near the ancient Appian Way, the Aqueduct Park. The Rose Garden, at the base of the Palatine hill, is a must-see in the spring, while the Villa Borghese is a great classic.
PALACES
Many palaces are still inhabited by the same families who built them centuries ago, while others have become museums, embassies, government offices. But all of them are tied to the fortunes of popes who rebuilt the city beginning in the 15th century.
From the Visconti to the Orsini, the Corsini to the Colonna to the Borgia, Piccolomini, Della Rovere, Farnese, Medici, Carafa, Borghese, Barberini, Pamphilj, Chigi and Rospigliosi, each family lef an enduring mark on the city. There’s Palazzo Doria Pamphilj on the busy via del Corso, decorated in the Baroque style and vaunting loggias and courtyards elegantly frescoed. Palazzo Spada in piazza Capodiferro is
also impressive. Cardinal Bernardino commissioned its construction by Borromini, the man behind the famous Galleria Prospetica. Since 1927, the building has housed the Council of State. Palazzo Farnese is nearby, in the homonymous piazza decorated with two Egyptian, granite tubs from the Baths of Caracalla. The palazzo, granted to France in 1939 for 99 years, it now serves as the French embassy and is open to the public on July 14. Palazzo Chigi in piazza Colonna was instead intended as a place to host elite parties. Bought by the Chigi family in the mid-17th century, it became the seat of the Austrian embassy in 1917, followed by the headquarters of the Ministry of the Colonies under Mussolini, then the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and, lastly, the Council of Ministers
since 1961. The nearby Palazzo Montecitorio has been the seat of the Chamber of Deputies since 1870. Palazzo Madama is seat of the Italian Senate since 1871, it was the Medici’s Roman residence until Cardinal Ferdinando bought Villa Medici on the Pincian Hill. The villa is currently home to the French Academy in Rome. Palazzo del Quirinale was a papal residence and since 1946 it has been the official residence of the President of the Italian Republic. The Versailles-style 18th-century Palazzo Colonna is nearby, in piazza Santi Apostoli. Assigned to the university by Pope Eugene IV, the Renaissance Palazzo della Sapienza was later modified by Francesco Borromini, who added the Church of Sant’Ivo. The building houses the State Archives today.
BEST FOOD EXPERIENCES
The best restaurants in Rome. Reservation recommended, the ‘Les Clefs D’Or’ concierge is at your service
ALLEGRÌO
The visual and emotional experience of Allegrìo is complemented by food that celebrates Italy and its traditions. It begins in the morning with breakfast, and continues through business lunches and aperitifs to dinner and beyond, with a fascinating afer-dinner drinks list. Executive chef Daniele Creti offers a menu that ranges from the classics of Roman cuisine to more contemporary dishes, alongside the specialities of pizza masters Ivano Veccia and Peppe Aiello.
AMARE
Fausto Milillo and Sergio Galleti take care of guests at Amarae, an elegant restaurant with a fabulous terrace overlooking Piazza Cola di Rienzo. Here the menu is decided by the sea, and the beautifully executed and cooked dishes are paired with an excellent list of wines, gins and spirits. The atmosphere is sophisticated and informal, making this the ideal place to relax and enjoy the food, always fresh and superb quality.
CARPACCIO BEEF RESTAURANT
Carpaccio Beef Restaurant, a Steak House Boutique located next to Via Veneto, is the tale of an all-Italian story, with an elegant venue, sof atmosphere, and modern cuisine that respects Italian tradition while bringing innovation and good taste since 1893. The focus on meat and culinary techniques are the highlights of the experience one can enjoy in this beautiful seting in the heart of Rome.
Via Marche, 9 ph. +39 06 86218298
Via della Conciliazione, 4 ph. +39 06 68892774 choruscafe.it
CHORUS
Piazza del Fico, 29 ph. +39 06 6864009 dafrancesco.it
DA FRANCESCO
The outstanding thing about Chorus is the innovative cooking of chef Arcangelo Dandini, who showcases high-quality ingredients and impeccable presentation. A culinary experience to remember, made even more special by the creative ideas of mixology maestro Massimo D’Addezio.
It was back in 1957 that Francesco Boni and Amalia Tognoloni took over this venue close to Piazza Navona and created a place that has become a landmark for authentic local food. Even today, with the third generation of the family, although there are some contemporary variations, the traditional Roman recipes are ever present.
Via Francesco Carrara, 12/15 ph. +39 06 3234453 fingersrestaurants.com
FINGER’S ROMA
A luxury Japanese restaurant offering a fabulous culinary experience, thanks to the fusion creations of chef Roberto Okabe. Superb quality, excellent service and a beautiful seting, with generous sofa seating and sof lights creating a delicate, evanescent Japanese mood for a new eastern-style Dolce Vita. To round off the evening, Finger’s Roma has a spacious lounge area devoted to mixology, where you can sample innovative cocktails.
RISTORANTE IL FALCHETTO
Tucked away among the city’s most delightful squares and narrow streets, Il Falcheto offers meticulous cooking with a strong focus on quality ingredients. The menu features all the classics of Roman cuisine, like pasta with cacio e pepe, amatriciana or carbonara, Jewish-style artichokes, oxtail alla Vaccinara and tripe. There’s also a huge variety of fish dishes. All are accompanied by superb wines, thanks to the list of more than 200 labels, to suit all tastes.
Via dei Montecatini, 12 ph. +39 066 791160 ristoranteilfalchetto.it
IMÀGO
Imàgo - image and magicsummarises in just one word the philosophy behind the restaurant at the Hassler in Rome: a location where the magnificent view of the Eternal City and the flavours come together to create a unique culinary experience. Andrea Antonini has since 2018 been Executive Chef, developing a vision that puts Italian and local recipes front and centre, deconstructing and reconstructing them with exquisite technique and creative flair.
Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 69934726 hotelhasslerroma.com
RISTORANTE IL MIRAGGIO FONTANA DI TREVI
Located between the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Venezia, this restaurant atracts gourmet diners for its exceptional food served in a welcoming, informal seting with an elegant summer terrace. For a truly Roman meal, order the artichokes alla romana and the tonnarelli with cacio e pepe, carbonara or amatriciana. And if your taste is more for authentic Sardinian cuisine, try the fregola with clams, the culurgiones filled pasta and the sea bream with Vermentino wine. Open every day uninterruptedly for lunch and dinner. Gluten-free options are also available.
Via dell’Umiltà, 46A ph. +39 06 6780226
LA FANTANA DI VENERE
In the beating heart of Rome, a stone’s throw from the Trevi Fountain but away from the tourist chaos, stands La Fontana di Venere, a quiet, informal restaurant where you can sample the most authentic flavours of Roman cuisine. From artichoke alla romana to carbonara, saltimbocca alla romana to poached sea bass all’acqua pazza, every dish here is a culinary experience to remember.
Vicolo dei Modelli, 56 ph. +39 06 85388054
ORMA
A fine-dining restaurant with an international outlook in the historic Ludovisi neighbourhood. Orma’s architecture is visually stunning, and the food ranges from fine dining, with a chef’s table seating four, to the formula lunch at the bistro and a cocktail bar on the terrace for hot summer nights. Ingredients are brought straight from the Orto di Orma in the Lazio countryside.
Via Boncompagni, 31/33 ph. +39 06 8543182 ormaroma.it
OSTERIA QUARANTAQUATTRO
In the historic centre of Rome, there’s a place that interweaves traditional cooking with modern touches for an unforgetable dining experience. It’s the perfect seting for dinner with friends, a business lunch or a romantic evening. The menu combines mediterranean cuisine with an ongoing quest for new combinations, and the result is a triumph of flavour and tradition. Wines come in a broad range of aromas and styles for a pleasant and lasting memory.
Via Aureliana, 44 ph. +39 06 42013318 osteriaquarantaquattro.com
PIRÒ
Pirò opened in 2015 and today it’s a modern fish restaurant located in a historic palace built in the year 1000, very close to Piazza Navona. In this welcoming and meticulously designed seting, Pirò serves simple food that showcases the natural flavours of local fish, for an unforgetable culinary experience.
RISTORANTE AI COCCI
At Ristorante Ai Cocci, our culinary story is the result of years of experience and passion, and guests are offered a genuine Roman food experience in a warm and welcoming atmosphere, where pasta is prepared the old-fashioned way, desserts are home-made and all ingredients are excellent quality. Every dish tells the story of the city and our love for its traditional cuisine.
RISTORANTE CLOTILDE
The owner Clemente Quaglia and his chef have devised a menu with an intense focus on sourcing ingredients. An enjoyable lunch venue, a place to take friends for a summer evening in Rome, or a perfect romantic dinner, sampling traditional dishes reinterpreted with a modern slant. A place to visit every day.
Vicolo della Cancelleria, 36 ph. +39 06 68803140 piroosteriadipesce.it
Via Luca della Robbia, 21-23 ph. +39 06 5743017 ristoranteaicocci.com
The restaurant just steps away from Via Veneto where the sea unveils its flavors in a refined yet informal atmosphere. Its cuisine of memories narrates the creativity of Chef Davide Cianeti with offerings of locally sourced seafood and a wine list boasting sought-afer and prestigious labels. The American bar serves tapas paired with cocktails that can be enjoyed both at the counter and in the outdoor seating area.
Via Appia Antica, 139 ph. +39 06 7880494 larcheologia.it
RISTORANTE L’ARCHEOLOGIA
Since 1804, Ristorante L’Archeologia has told the story of the city through its food, its wine cellar and its unique experience. New forms of expression are inspired by traditional regional food and wine culture, while respect for superb ingredients is always at the heart.
Via della Vite 28 ph. +39 06 69380948 ristorantelife.com
RISTORANTE LIFE
Opened 20 years ago in a quiet, elegant street near Piazza di Spagna, Ristorante Life offers high-quality dishes based on fresh fish, meat and white and black truffles. There’s a terrace garden with a huge variety of plants, and indoor dining rooms with beautiful cosy decor. A fantastic cellar of the best Italian wines.
RISTORANTE MIRABELLE
On the seventh floor of the elegant Hotel Splendide Royal, the Mirabelle restaurant offers a sensory experience on one of the most enchanting gourmet terraces in the city. Surrounded by a unique panorama, wonder and marvel intertwine amidst the Mediterranean flavors of refined cuisine and the elegance of unparalleled hospitality.
Via di Porta Pinciana, 14 ph. +39 06 42168838 robertonaldicollection.com
TULLIO
Not far from Piazza Barberini and Via Veneto, Tullio has been run by the same family since 1950. It all began with a small grocery shop, and has become a landmark in the city. In this informal, convivial place you can sample typical Florentine dishes (the owners are originally from Tuscany) and seasonal specialities, accompanied by a superb range of wines.
Via San Nicola da Tolentino, 26 ph. +39 06 4745560 tullioristorante.it
RISTORANTE ST. ANA
Storied restaurant, always a landmark in Rome for good food. Opened in 1968 by Elio Quagliarini and his wife Antonieta, it is now run by their son, Roberto. It is located in an evocative seting of rare beauty, in an historic building with medieval walls, close to Piazza del Popolo. Its ancient walls testify to the countless showbiz stars and illustrious figures who have dined here from the Sixties to today.
Via della Penna, 68 ph. +39 06 3610291 osteriastana.it
UNIK RESTAURANT
Located a short walk away from Piazza di Spagna, Unìk offers superbly creative and innovative cooking with close links to the seasons and high-quality ingredients. These are expertly prepared by the young chef Marco Costarelli, resulting in impeccable combinations of flavours, aromas and textures. An elegant and intimate, yet informal, atmosphere and friendly staff who take good care of you and enhance your culinary experience for lunch, aperitifs or dinner.
VATTANI RISTORANTE
A refined restaurant and cocktail bar right in the centre of Rome, with an elegant and exquisitely retro style, where diners can give themselves over to the pleasures of traditional Roman cooking and fresh Mediterranean and seafood dishes for an unforgetable culinary experience. Outdoor seating is available.
Via del Viminale, 2 ph. +39 06 4818229
Via della Croce, 18 ph. +39 06 68589177 unikrestaurant.it
TRATTORIE
FELICE A TESTACCIO
Via Mastro Giorgio, 29 ph. +39 06 5746800
feliceatestaccio.com
HOSTARIA DA PIETRO
Via di Gesù e Maria, 18 ph. +39 06 3208816 hostariadapietro.it
Via di Ripeta, 232 ph. + 39 06 3222381 sanbaylon.com
SCARPETTA NYC
Via Vitorio Veneto, 60 ph. + 39 06 42010788 scarpetarestaurants.com
SETTIMO ROMAN CUISINE & TERRACE
Via Lombardia, 47 ph. + 39 06 478021 setimoristorante.it
SIGNATURE COCKTAILS ARE PERFECT TO ENJOY AS AN APERITIF
INFORMATION GETTING AROUND IN ROME AND THE SURROUNDING AREA
Everything you need to know to move in the city and further afield
TAXI E UBER
Rome’s taxis can be booked by calling +39 06 0609, Free Now app or you can catch one at the taxi stand.
Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00 on weekdays: €3,00. Starting price from 6:00 to 22:00, weekends and holidays: €5,00.
Starting price at night from 22:00 to 6:00: €7,00.
Fixed rate from Rome city center to Fiumicino airport: €50,00. Fixed rate from Rome city center to Ciampino airport: €31,00. Rome is also covered by Uber service with cars bookable through the Uber app.
CAR SHARING
The simple, sustainable shared vehicle solution. To access the service you need
to register with operators and download the Car Sharing Roma app. The fleets of vehicles include hybrid and electric options.
register and activate the service. To hire bikes or scooters, choose one of the three operators Lime, Dot and Bird (until 2026). They can also be booked via the Uber app.
CITY BIKE AND SCOOTERS
In Rome it’s quick and easy to hire a shared bicycle or scooter: just choose an operator, download the app and follow the instructions to
BUS
Rome boasts a total of 379 bus lines (including 29 night buses). The night buses replace the metro when it’s closed, and are essential for geting around the city afer midnight.
Urban lines (U) operate from 5:00 or 6:30, and the service ends at midnight. Night buses (N): operate when the metro is closed, between 00:00 and 5:00 or 6:00. Bus tickets (like
DISTANCE FROM ROME TO:
CAPALBIO
130 KM
CAPRI 270 KM
CIAMPINO 17 KM
FLORENCE 280 KM
FIUMICINO 30 KM
FREGENE 40 KM
NAPLES 225 KM
PORTO ERCOLE 150 KM
SABAUDIA 95 KM
SPERLONGA 150 KM
metro tickets) can be bought at metro stations, tobacco shops or newspaper kiosks, or on the ATAC ROMA app. A standard ticket is valid for 100 minutes from stamping, and covers one journey on ATAC public transport. The price is € 1.50. There are also day tickets (€ 7.00), 2-day tickets (€12.50), 3-day tickets (€18.00) and other options.
METRO
The metro is an alternative way to move around the city. There are 4 lines: A (Anagnina-Batistini), B (Laurentina-Rebibbia), B1 (Laurentina-Jonio) and C
(Pantano-San Giovanni), and trains run at the weekends too.
From Sunday to Thursday, the first train is at 5:30 and the last at 23:30; on Friday and Saturday the first is at 5:30 and the last at 1:30. In August 2023, line A is partially closed for refurbishment.
TRAIN
Rome has 71 railway stations. The main one is Roma Termini in the city centre, Italy’s most important railway hub. The second-largest in terms of passenger numbers is Roma Tiburtina. Both are served by high-speed connections to the main Italian destinations. To reach the centre of Rome from Tiburtina, take the blue metro line B and get off at Colosseum.
AIRPORTS
Fiumicino international airport (IATA code FCO) is the largest of Rome’s airports. It is located 32 kilometres from the capital, and connected to Roma Termini by the Leonardo Express train and numerous shutle bus services. Ciampino airport is mainly used by low-cost airlines, and is 17 kilometres from the centre.
SPERLONGA
HOTELS
ALEPH ROME HOTEL, CURIO COLLECTION BY HILTON
Via di S. Basilio, 15
ph. +39 06 422 9001 hilton.com
ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIADI
ROME HOTEL
Piazza della Repubblica, 48-49
ph. +39 06 489 381 anantara.com
BAGLIONI HOTEL REGINA
Via Vitorio Veneto, 72 ph. +39 06 421111 rome.baglionihotels.com
GRAND HOTEL PALACE
Via Vitorio Veneto, 70 ph. +39 06 47871 millenniumhotels.com
HOTEL DE RUSSIE
Via del Babbuino, 9 ph. +39 06 328881 roccofortehotels.com
HOTEL DE LA VILLE
Via Sistina, 69 ph. +39 06 977 931 roccofortehotels.com
HOTEL D’INGHILTERRA ROMA STARHOTELS COLLEZIONE
Via Bocca di Leone, 14 ph. +39 06 699811 collezione.starhotels.com
HOTEL HASSLER
Piazza Trinita dei Monti, 6 ph. +39 06 699340 hotelhasslerroma.com
INTERCONTINENTAL ROME AMBASCIATORI PALACE
Via Vitorio Veneto, 62 ph. +39 06 47493 ihg.com
J.K.PLACE ROMA
Via di Monte d’Oro, 30 ph. +39 06 982 634 jkroma.com
PALAZZO MANFREDI
Via Labicana, 125 ph. +39 06 77591380ù manfredihotels.com
PALAZZO RIPETTA
Via di Ripeta, 231 ph. +39 06 3231144 palazzoripeta.com
ROME CAVALIERI, A WALDORF ASTORIA HOTELS
Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 ph. +39 06 35091 romecavalieri.com
ROMA LUXUS
Largo Angelicum, 4 ph: +39 06 32091281 romaluxushotel.com
