[EN] Gwangju News March 2020 #217

Gwangju & South Jeolla International Magazine

Dedicated to Human Rights in North Korea

Saram: A Berlin-Based NGO

Gwangju and South Jeolla International Magazine I March 2020 #217 Saram: A Berlin-Based NGO Dedicated to Human Rights in North Korea

March 2020 #217

Gwangju & South Jeolla International Magazine

March 2020, Issue No. 217 Published: March 1, 2020 Cover Photo Saram: A Berlin-Based NGO

THE EDITORIAL TEAM Publisher Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Production Editor Layout Editor Photo Editor Photographer Communications Proofreaders

Online Editor Researcher

Dr. Shin Gyonggu Dr. David E. Shaffer William Urbanski Isaiah Winters Melline Galani Sarah Pittman Kim Yunkyoung Jeong Ji-yeon Rhianon Howell-Matwichuk, Joseph Nunez, Maria Neliza “Ynell” Mondragon, Timothy Berg, Di Foster, David Foster Melline Galani Lee Younny

The Gwangju News is the first English monthly magazine for the general public in Korea, first published in 2001. Each monthly issue covers local and regional issues, with a focus on the roles and activities of the international residents and local English-speaking communities.

Copyright © 2020 by the Gwangju International Center. All rights reserved. No part of this publication covered by this copyright may be reproduced in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise – without the written consent of the publisher.

For volunteering and article submission inquiries, please contact the editor at gwangjunews@gic.or.kr.

Special thanks to Gwangju City and all of our sponsors.

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s we march forward into a new month with a new issue of the Gwangju News, we are immediately met with the 101st commemoration of the March 1st Movement, the 1919 protests against colonial rule that took place not just in the capital but nationwide. Lest we forget the role that Gwangju played in this 3.1 Movement, our Photo Essay pays tribute to those courageous and patriotic citizens and their sacrifices, including those of high school student Yoon Hyungsook.

While the dangers of 1919 have been eliminated, this March confronts us with another deadly danger (depicted in our March Photo of the Month): the highly infectious Wuhan coronavirus. We urge that the precautions announced

by Gwangju City Hall be carefully followed. Although COVID-19 is more easily transmitted than the SARS virus, we can take a bit of solace in knowing that it is less deadly.

With the vigilance that Gwangju citizens are known for, our community is certain to overcome the perils of our present medical threat. While March has “come in like a lion,” let us hope that it will “go out like a lamb.”

This month’s cover features a photo of what appears to be an impoverished rural village. It is, but it is in North Korea. Last month, the Gwangju News met with the leaders of Saram, an NGO in Germany that is a dedicated fact-gathering group on the North. Read our informative interview. Our other two features are a glimpse of the cultural heritage of the indigenous tribes of Malaysian Borneo and a look back on Korea’s history of ghost movies. Speaking of ghosts, this month’s Blast from the Past deals with how Korea has traditionally buried its dead.

In addition to Borneo, we take you to a temple in Thailand for a fabulous temple-stay with a group of female monksbut-not-monks. Then it’s on to Gyeongju for an account of the marvelous temple experiences available there. Back home, we bring you an account of the churches being evicted from Hak-dong.

And of course, we have much more: Fantasy coffee in Mokpo, eomuk in a bowl, taekwondo in English, marriage in Saipan, cocktails in Nirvana, internship in GIIP, employment in Korean, team-teaching in English, Little Women in a book, poetry in Hashima, and cognition in two systems.

Stay safe, and enjoy this month’s issue of the Gwangju News!

David E. Shaffer Editor-in-Chief Gwangju News

March 2020

Registration No. 광주광역시 라. 00145 (ISSN 2093-5315) Registration Date: February 22, 2010 Printed by Join Adcom 조인애드컴 (+82)-62-367-7702

From the Editor

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The Gwangju News is published by Gwangju International Center: Jungang-ro 196-beon-gil 5 (Geumnam-ro 3-ga), Dong-gu, Gwangju 61475, South Korea Tel: (+82)-62-226-2733~34 Fax: (+82)-62-226-2731 Website: www.gwangjunewsgic.com Email: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr GwangjuNews gwangjunews

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ARTS & CULTURE

CORONA VIRUS

Photo of the Month

By Yunkyoung (Hillel) Kim

“Too much fake news, but it is not too much to be careful.� Taken on Chungjang-ro.

The Photographer

Yunkyoung (Hillel) Kim is a priest in the Anglican Church and also

a portrait photographer. More of his pictures can be found at www.instagram.com/hillelkim.

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CONTENTS March 2020

Issue # 217

MONTHLY NEWS 04. Gwangju City News 54. March 2020 Happenings 56. Community Board FEATURES 06. Saram: A Berlin-Based NGO dedicated to Human Rights in North Korea 10. Malaysian Borneo: Cultural Heritage of Indigenous Tribes 14. Korean Ghost Movies BLAST FROM THE PAST 17. Burying the Dead in Korea TRAVEL 20. Lost in Gwangju: Evicting God – The Exodus of Hak- dong’s Condemned Churches 24. From Abroad: Liberating the Dharma for Women – Visiting a Revolutionary Buddhist Monastery in

Thailand 28. Around Korea: Gyeongju’s Temples Experiences FOOD & DRINKS 30. Mokpo’s Fantasy Coffee 32. Eomuk Bokkeum: Stir-Fried Fish Cake

SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 34. Taekwondo Classes in English COMMUNITY 36. Married in Saipan 38. Attaining Nirvana: A Jigsaw Puzzle and a Treasure Hunt 40. Gwangju International Internship Program (GIIP) 2020: Centre des arts d’Enghien-les-Bains

EDUCATION 41. Everyday Korean: Episode 27 – 취업 (Employment) 42. Language Teaching: Team-Teaching with Native Speakers OPINION 45. A Tale of Two Systems ARTS & CULTURE 02. Photo of the Month 47. Gwangju News Crossword Puzzle 48 Photo Essay: March 1st Movement 50. Book Review: Little Women by Louisa May Alcott 51. Gwangju Writes: Poetry

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March 2020

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Gwangju City News

MONTHLY NEWS

Reprinted with permission from Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall Photographs courtesy of Gwangju Metropolitan City Hall

Mayor Lee (center) during the February executive meeting.

Mayor Lee Makes Recommendations at Executive Officials’ Meeting Coronavirus Control

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March 2020

t the February 11 meeting of Gwangju city executive officials, it was requested by Mayor Lee Yong-seop that all related institutions assure prevention from spreading of the new coronavirus and minimize the damage to the local economy.

With the dedicated efforts of the health authorities and the cooperation of citizens, no additional confirmed cases have been reported for five days, quarantine officials have been managing the situation in a stable manner, and Gwangju citizens have been receiving all necessary support.

The mayor stressed that an emergency system must be maintained and all the capabilities must be concentrated on to prevent the spread of the coronavirus. The heightened alert was not to be lifted until February 19 at midnight, when the quarantine period of the 16th and 18th confirmed patients was over.

He also asked that customized measures be taken to minimize local economic damage caused by the new coronavirus. The local economy has been hit hard by the disease’s spread. With the growing civil unrest, the economy

has suffered a lot of difficulties, especially in the service sectors such as wholesale and retail, food and lodging, distribution, due to reduced number of consumers, fewer tourists, and cancellation of various events.

Countermeasures were discussed on February 10 with 22 industry representatives and economic groups. Based on the damage cases and measures discussed during the meeting led by the Deputy Mayor of Culture and Economy, City Hall requested that actions to support the local economy be established and implemented immediately, underlying that in times of crisis, citizens should be able to trust and rely on the administration.

It was said that aside from the Korea Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (Phone: 1339), the Corona Call Center (613-3326, 3327, 3352, 3354; 9:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m., daily) has been operating since February 7, and the center hopes to reinforce its professional staff so that it can play a role as a communication channel to answer citizens’ questions and combat fake news.

The Job Economics Office at the Economic Employment Promotion Agency was directed to establish a consultation

5 room to help small business owners and self-employed individuals. Being a time for sharing and solidarity to develop the Gwangju spirit, city officials were instructed to take the lead in identifying the things that can be done first.

In order to support struggling restaurants, the business community suggested stopping catering to canteens of public institutions. Even if it is inconvenient for the employees to leave city hall to have lunch, it is time for public officials to show support for self-employed people and take the initiative in revitalizing the local economy.

Until the new coronavirus situation subsides, it was requested that not only City Hall, but also other agencies and their public organizations actively participate in the plan to temporarily stop catering to their cafeteria and use the outside restaurants. Together, these considerations will help restaurants overcome their current difficulties.

Also, flower growers and vendors are facing hardships due to cancellations of school graduations and various meetings, so it was suggested to support the flower industry by buying flowers or sending bouquets. Coffee shops and restaurants are allowed to use disposable products for a limited time until the outbreak of the new coronavirus is well under control. Although it is directly related to environmental issues, prevention of coronavirus infections should be the top priority, and it is also aimed at reducing the damage to sales from food service establishments due to the fear of infection.

In addition, the citizens must be informed that the new coronavirus can be prevented by following preventive rules such as wearing masks and washing hands. Even if infected, citizens must be made aware that the disease can be treated and that the city has the means to do this, so excessive caution is unnecessary, and citizens should go about their normal economic activities.

The goal for this year is setting up challenging performance-generating tasks and achieving them with innovative business processes to create meaningful results.

By complementing the performance management system that was launched last year, this year challenging key tasks will be selected and focused on by implementing the Gwangju-tailored performance management system that has improved the fairness and rationality of evaluation.

It was stressed that public officials are to abide by the Public Election Act with respect to the April 15 general election.

The election date for the 21st National Assembly members, April 15, is just two months away. According to the Public Election Act, as of February 15, which is 60 days before election day, the heads of local governments and public officials are not allowed to attempt to influence elections.

They are restricted from holding or sponsoring various events such as business presentations, public hearings, and sports competitions.

Daegu Delivers 10,000 Hygiene Masks to Gwangju

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wangju and Daegu, under their “Moonlight Alliance” (Dalbit Alliance), are working together to overcome the risk of contracting the new coronavirus. The two cities held a ceremony on February 12 to deliver relief supplies for the new coronavirus at city hall’s meeting room. Daegu city officials, including Choi Young-ho, Director General of the Policy Planning Bureau, attended the distribution ceremony and offered 10,000 hygiene masks worth 20 million won to Gwangju.

The delivery of the goods came as Gwangju Mayor Lee Yong-seop and Daegu Mayor Kwon Young-jin held a telephone conversation a day earlier and agreed that they would cooperate under their “Moonlight Alliance” to respond to the new coronavirus situation. Choi Young-ho, Director General of the Policy Planning Bureau in Daegu, said, “Gwangju and Daegu have maintained the Moonlight Alliance for a long time and helped each other whenever they had difficulties,” and added, “Daegu Mayor Kwon Young-jin is confident that Gwangju and Daegu will cope with the coronavirus crisis wisely by joining forces.”

“Daegu City helped us greatly last year during the World Swimming Championships in Gwangju, and we are very grateful for the city’s continued support now in this difficult situation,” said Mayor Lee Yong-seop.

Gwangju City and Daegu City signed the Moonlight Alliance agreement in March 2013 to stimulate collaboration projects in social overhead capital (SOC), the economic field, and in areas related to the environment, ecology, and culture and sports. Together, the two cities have cooperated on 34 projects, including the Moonlight Sports and Cultural Exchange and public servants’ reciprocal visits.

March 2020

The performance creation plan reported by officials will be reflected in personnel and performance pay through a fair and reasonable evaluation at the end of the year. The directors and the heads of related public organizations should make efforts to realize a “just and abundant

April General Elections

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Performance Management System

Gwangju” as soon as possible by creating innovative results that citizens can feel.

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Saram: A Berlin-Based NGO Dedicated to Human Rights in North Korea

FEATURE FEATURE

Written by William Urbanski

A roadside repairs kiosk in North Korea.

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aram (사람, “people” in Korean) is an NGO based in Berlin that promotes human rights in North Korea.

It sounds anomalous that a German NGO would be involved in the issue of human rights under the Kim Jongun regime, but the group, largely comprised of volunteers, has very compelling reasons to do so.

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March 2020

I first met Nicolai Sprekels, the founder and spokesperson of Saram, when I was working on my master’s degree in Berlin. Sprekels and his team brought two North Korean defectors to my university to speak at a human rights conference, and the stories they told of the horrible conditions within the country and of their harrowing experiences escaping the country, being captured, and escaping again, literally had the audience in tears.

Saram, an independently funded NGO, operates out of a refurbished World War II bunker, where it regularly hosts events that draw attention to the human rights atrocities that are buried in the deluge of mass media and secondor third-hand information that people usually read about North Korea. Saram also carries out international initiatives that go well beyond the platitudes expressed by the so-called pundits so regularly seen on television.

In late 2019 and early 2020, Sprekels spent a number of weeks in Seoul meeting with various interest groups and was later joined by Saram Director Franziska Gregor. I met with Sprekels and Gregor in Seoul in February to hear what they had been up to.

Gwangju News (GN): Thank you, Nicolai and Franziska, for meeting with me. To start off, what is Saram and what does it do?

Nicolai Sprekels: Saram is a team of mostly German people, mostly in Berlin. We also have a North Korean on our team, and there are a few people around the world cooperating with us. We started about six years ago and believe that people around Germany and Europe should try to improve human rights in North Korea. At first, we only sought out information about North Korea and were learning how to verify it. When Kim Jong-il died, that was the moment we decided to really get active and form an NGO. Two years ago, we changed from an NGO to a foundation. Since then we have been able to engage in a lot more dialogue with German officials and big institutions in human rights.

GN: You are based in Berlin. Why do you care what happens in North Korea, and why is it important for people in Europe to understand what is going on there?

Sprekels: There are two answers to that. First, most people here [in South Korea] are probably not aware that relations between the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) and the European states, particularly Germany, are quite close and stable in many ways. There is a lot of dialogue, exchange, and humanitarian aid programs.

They are very complex relations, but what is important to understand is that the DPRK had partner states in Europe when Germany was still divided. East Germany supported the DPRK and helped it rebuild after the Korean War. So many people in North Korea have a very good impression

7 of Germans. After German reunification, Germany maintained diplomatic relations, and today Germany is the only country that has an accepted, official human rights dialogue with the DPRK. For these reasons, Germany has a chance to improve human rights issues in the DPRK, but to do so we need many more people, rather than just a few politicians, to be aware of the situation and the political aspects.

Franziska Gregor: Also, a number of people who work for our foundation, myself included, are from East Germany. So, we have a closer relationship to the topic than people from other European countries because we are more familiar with the special relations that Nicolai just mentioned.

Sprekels: The second reason has to do with World War II and the road Germany took. I think everyone around the world is aware of the immense crimes committed by the Nazi Party, including the Holocaust and the murder of all kinds of unwelcome people by that regime. After the total defeat of the Nazis, a process of complete change in Germany started along with a rethinking of how to deal with regimes like that. Today, Germany is a state that feels an urgent responsibility to prevent these kinds of human rights violations. The slogan repeated

by German politicians all the time is “Never Again,” which refers specifically to concentration camps.

Gregor: It is our position that Germany has a special responsibility, because of the Second World War, to prevent these kinds of situations around the word.

GN: Why is it important to not listen to so-called “experts” on North Korea, and who should people be listening to in order to get a clear picture of the situation in the DPRK? Sprekels: If we had listened to and believed the information from European experts, we never would have started an NGO. European experts do not meet defectors and the info we got from defectors was the opposite of the statements made by the supposed experts. The reports by defectors were so shocking we hesitated to believe them at first, but the gap between the views of the European experts and the defectors was so wide we decided the only approach was to get to know defectors. We use scientifically obtained information from defectors, meaning we are closer to understanding what is really going on than the experts are. For example, we know beyond a shadow of a doubt there are over 100 thousand people living in prison camps in terrible conditions in North Korea.

Gregor: There is no free movement in North Korea. So, there is no way for experts who have visited to be sure if what they were being told [by DPRK representatives] was actually happening. Just as well, some of the German experts actually worked for the East German government. They visited the DPRK as government guests and were certainly not neutral. We are kind of like independent journalists in the sense that we try to verify defector stories.

GN: You have been extremely busy during your time in Seoul. Whom have you been meeting with?

Sprekels: Largely, I have been meeting with North Korean defectors. Let’s say it like this: It is important for

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March 2020

North Korean soldiers and a few citizens.

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Saram at the ROK Embassy in the Netherlands.

us to develop a personal relationship with them because the majority of defectors do not want to talk in public or speak out. Their families in North Korea might suffer because of that and could be sent to prison camps. We meet them in private and earn their trust. That is a very important part of our work here. Besides that, we have been meeting with people from NGOs such as NK Watch and ICNK (International Coalition to Stop Crimes Against Humanity in North Korea), as well as with the OHCHR (Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Human Rights).

GN: Could you comment on the international approach to North Korea? What works and what does not? What do you think would be the most effective way to deal with the regime?

Sprekels: Generally speaking, from my understanding, among the general public in South Korean society and the political parties, there are two extreme positions for dealing with North Korea. The first is this idea of applying maximum pressure. The other side wants to build a very friendly and trustful relationship, like with the Sunshine Policy [of President Kim Dae-jung]. These two extreme approaches change every few years with the elections and North Korea plays on this quite well. They try to play around between these two possibilities.

Just to be clear, we do not want to lecture the South Korean government on what to do. What we would like to have is a situation internationally where political and civil organizations (NGOs) follow one strategy to really be successful in achieving improvements for North Koreans in their daily lives and in terms of the human rights situation. Now there is no joint strategy.

We are not against exchange, but we want to have a more contingent exchange. We should not give North Korea any benefits without them improving some human rights aspects. This should always be the condition for exchange.

What we see in Europe is that if one country wants to talk human rights, North Korea will refuse to talk with them and just go to the next country. North Korea plays this perfectly. It is not because the regime is mysteriously evil, but it is just natural for them to do that.

GN: What do you have to say about people who would like to visit North Korea to “experience it for themselves� and get a direct impression?

Sprekels: The thing is, if you go to North Korea today, you do not get a realistic impression, not at all. There is no freedom of movement, and you see only what they want you to see.

9 Gregor: It is a guided tour, and you are funding the government. It is not a tourist institution that runs the tours. The tourist office is directly linked to the government.

All the money you spend on that trip is reinvested to fund programs like the military.

action. There is no military option at all when it comes to North Korea. I want to make that extremely clear. It would be extremely horrifying. I do not have the answer on how to achieve such a change, but we definitely need a different approach.

The question is, do you really want to see what is going on there? My personal opinion is that if you want to go to a country to experience its poverty or human rights problems, then it is a little bit like going to a zoo. You also have to keep in mind that you cannot just walk around and approach people and talk to them, even if you do speak Korean. You would endanger people by doing that.

If they say something wrong or against the government, you can leave the country, but they have to stay there and face the consequences. So, even if you think it is a good idea to smuggle something into the country or talk about your personal point of view with them, you would be endangering the people living there.

If the current regime were to open up the country, the citizenry would want to have basic rights. Once this happened, the regime would be weakened. This is what we see in every other dictatorship, and this is why the current regime cannot open the country up. It is not an option, and we need to understand and accept that.

You have to ask yourself why you want to do this trip.

Is it just to satisfy your curiosity, the same as you would do on a city trip to London or Paris? Or do you really want to know something about the people there? If so, it is probably better to talk to someone who has left the country. Everything you see there is completely staged for the tourists. I do not think there is a yes or no answer to the question of whether you should go there, but you should be aware of all the points before you make a decision.

▲ Citizens in North Korea have to fill out a “self-criticism book” and describe how they can be more loyal to the regime. What is written in the book is discussed in mandatory meetings.

Photographs courtesy of Saram.

The Author

William Urbanski, managing editor of the Gwangju News, has an MA in international relations and cultural diplomacy. He is married to a wonderful Korean woman and has myriad interests, but his true passion is eating pizza.

March 2020

I have to be clear in what I mean by regime change. I do not mean that this should be achieved through military

Saram’s German language website contains pictures and contact information if you’d like to learn more: https://saram-nk.org.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

GN: Getting back to the issue of the regime and how it works, you mentioned there can be no real improvements in North Korea until there is a regime change. Can you expand on that?

Sprekels: There are a lot of dictatorships in the world that have ended. Take for example the regime in Romania under Ceausescu, who actually had Kim Il-sung as his role model. We can understand the nature of dictatorships quite well. The assumption that so many people have is that all dictatorships are the same but that North Korea is different. It is not. We know very much what happens psychologically to dictators that have complete power and are admired by the population. We can predict what North Korea is going to do because we can predict how dictators mentally change. And you can see in the case of all dictators (Hitler, Stalin, Ceausescu) is that over time they get more paranoid about losing their power, and they get more brutal in their mechanisms of oppression. It doesn’t make any sense to say that the North Korean dictatorship should be an exception, and we can prove this by the actions they are doing today. So, regime change is the only thing that will end that cruel human rights situation.

GN: Quite a profound and eye-opening viewpoint, I must say. Thank you both for sharing your views on North Korea with the Gwangju News.

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Malaysian Borneo

Cultural Heritage of Indigenous Tribes Will children of the forest be able to preserve their tribal culture?

FEATURE

Written and photographed by Cami Ismanova

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

Relics of animism that belonged to the ancestors of the Iban people.

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ne fine, rainy evening, I was walking down the street to visit the local Central Market in Kuala-Lumpur, Malaysia. I was excited to dive into the lively market life and get swirled into the storm of aromas. I knew for sure it was going to be a treat! I entered the market through a back gate and saw rows of fabrics, handmade soap, candles, local jewelry, traditional items of clothing, and souvenir shops.

I found out that the Art House Gallery and Museum of Ethnic Arts focuses on the culture and art of the indigenous people of Southeast Asia. This mini museum is the one and only museum dedicated to tribal and ethnic art in the region.

The owner, Leonard Yiu, has been collecting and dealing with items of art for 30 years. He offered me a tour around the museum and the gallery, patiently answering dozens of my questions.

I was walking from one shop to another when I stumbled into an art shop. I got curious, for I believe art is a major inspiration for someone who enjoys writing. I have no doubt I looked enchanted as I slowly absorbed every single painting I laid an eyes on. It was then that I saw the sign “Art House Gallery” up above the first floor. “It wouldn’t hurt to check it out,” I thought, and began my journey into the history of ethnic culture of Malaysian indigenous tribes.

Every single time I stopped in front of some painting, tribal mask, or native clothing, he would share an interesting story about each of them. So, if you ever visit this place, you will surely get an amazing guide. As you can judge from its title, the Art House consists both of a gallery and a museum.

The gallery has a great collection of portraits, still lifes, landscapes, and abstract paintings. You are free to purchase

11 whatever you might like. The museum consists of several sections dedicated to the art and culture of the area’s different ethnic groups. In particular, the section on Borneo’s cultural heritage attracted me the most.

Borneo is a gigantic island shared by Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei. What makes Borneo so special? To name a few things, it has picturesque views, a biodiverse rainforest, and a rich culture. While I was listening to the stories that Leonardo kindly agreed to share, I saw so many authentic pieces of art from Borneo that it left me speechless.

for they had hundreds of totems and worshipped several groups of beings, including a supreme god, holy spirits, ghost spirits, and the souls of the ancestors.

But nowadays, the majority of the Iban people are Christian. They were converted to Christianity after the mid-19th century arrival of British adventurer James Brooke. Only 13.6 percent of the Iban people still follow their original folk religion of animism, while the rest follow other religions like Islam, or do not have a religion at all.

According to Leonard, even though some of the masks are extremely frightening, they were worn by “good guys” known as shamans who tried to heal sick children by practicing various tribal rituals. There is a strong belief that exorcism was a part of those practices.

How do the Iban people live now in the 21st century?

Unfortunately, globalization and urbanization are not always welcomed by indigenous people. New construction, deforestation, and wildfires have not contributed to their wellbeing. It has been somewhat difficult for them to accept this modern era of technological advancement and mobility. Some of the Iban people have to move from place to place constantly because of the construction of new buildings in the areas they inhabit. They carry the roofs of their huts to build a new home every two to three months.

This kind of life endangers the Iban’s tribal culture, and it is becoming increasingly difficult to preserve what is left.

Artwork carved out of wood and stone.

(Art House Gallery and Museum of Ethnic Arts, Artist unknown)

March 2020

One of those stories is related to the Iban tribe, a race of fearsome, indigenous warriors known for headhunting and piracy in the past. However, since Europeans came to their lands, the practice of headhunting gradually stopped, although a lot of traditions, tribal customs, and the Iban language are thriving. The Iban tribe mostly inhabits the Malaysian state of Sarawak, although they are found throughout the whole of Borneo. The reason why I remember the Iban tribal culture and art so well is due to the clear image of masks they wore. Iban shamans would wear these (to be honest, quite frightening) masks during tribal rituals. The ancestors of the Iban practiced animism,

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Native hats, beaded necklaces, woven mats, bone plates, tun-tun sticks, Iban masks, armlets, medicine boxes, carving knives, and many more artifacts were on display.

Native beaded hats and necklaces are rich in color and pattern. They reminded me of some Central Asian skullcaps. The woven mats are flamboyant and exquisite, depicting various scenes from the daily life of indigenous tribes. They look both simple and complicated at the same time. All those curved, zigzagged, and wavy lines intersecting and forming a scene certainly tells us a deep, yet easily explicable story.

12 Once fierce and tattooed warriors who dominated the forest, today they can hardly call their native lands home. It is easier said than done, but I believe that an adaptation to modern life in moderate amounts can save them and their culture from extinction.

I am incredibly happy to share their story and art with others.

This world is a home for all of us and the rich, authentic cultures that we have helped to carry on for thousands of years.

Art House Gallery and Museum of Ethnic Arts Level 3, The Annexe, Central Market, Jalan Hang Kasturi, 50050 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 10:30 a.m. – 7:00 p.m, Free entrance 012-388-6868

The Author

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March 2020

Cami Ismanova is a student in Chonnam National University majoring at economics.

She loves traveling around, reading clasics ,and listening to jazz. These days she is fond of art and architecture, in particular, art galleries and museums. Her favorite art gallery is “The National Gallery of Singapore.�

Native beaded necklaces.

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KOREAN GHOST MOVIES Written by Régis Olry

The Origins and Concept of Ghosts in Korea

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March 2020

FEATURE

orean gghost stories are firmly rooted in oral tradition and ancient literature.[1] In the Tales of the Extraordinary (Sui chŏn), a compilation of Korean Buddhist tales and popular fables initiated by Ch’oe Chi-wŏn (857–900) during the Unified Silla Period, we can read the following story: A poet lived through a one-night love affair with two young women near a grave.

But both disappeared at dawn, and the poet understood they were the ghosts of the women who had been buried in this grave.

In a fifteenth century novel of Sŏng Hyŏn (1439–1504), a maid committed suicide in order to come back in the form of a ghost and meet up with the man she secretly married. Cho Su-sam (1762–1849), in a poem written in the 1810s, mentioned “the unappeased ghosts threatening the peace.” In 1913, the historian James Scarth Gale (1863–1937) made available an English compilation of Korean folk tales by scholars Bang Im (b. 1640) and Ryuk Yi (mid-15th century) (Fig. 1).[2] Forty years later, American writer Eleanore Myers Jewett (1890–1967) published another collection of Korean ghost stories wonderfully illustrated by Japanese artist Yashima Tarō (1908–1994) (Fig. 2).[3] Present-day literature is not outdone: Ghosts keep on lurking somewhere in many 21st century novels, such as Hwang Sok-yong’s 2008 Evening Star (Kaebapparagi pyôl) or Shin Kyung-sook’s 2011 Please Look After Mom (Ommarŭl putakhe), among many others.

into the molten metal but threw herself into it to commit suicide.[5] In both tales, the victims became ghosts.

Korean Ghost Movies

In Korea and all neighboring countries, ghosts are seen “as beings that co-exist with the world of the living.”[6] One can actually touch a ghost, talk with a ghost, eat with a ghost, and even fall in love with a ghost, as can be seen in Hwang In-ho’s 2011 Spellbound (Ossakhan Yeonae) and Oh In-chun’s 2014 Mourning Grave (Sonyeogoedam).

The very first Korean movie to portray a vengeful ghost is The Story of Jang-hwa and Hong-ryeon directed in 1924

by Park Jung-hyun. [7] Kim Jee-woon, among others, drew his inspiration from this story for his 2003 masterpiece A Tale of Two Sisters (Janghwa, Hongryeon).

Of course, Korean ghost movies have common features with other Asian ghost movies. The most evident is the iconic vengeful spirit called wonhon in Korean (Fig. 3), counterpart of the Japanese onryô: a female ghost in a white gown with long dishevelled black hair,[8] as can be seen in Ahn Sang-hoon’s 2006 Arang (Arang). Why dishevelled hair? Because they are known in Asian culture to express “vows of vengeance.”[9]

The history of Korea over the centuries and the interactions with neighboring countries explain why some Korean ghost tales may obviously be derived from ancestral folklore, however, with some noteworthy differences – a nuance Shin Jee-young calls “hybridisation, not homogenisation.”[4] For example, the bronze bell of King Seongdeok is believed to have been successfully cast only after a monk had pushed a child into the molten metal.

But they also have some specificities. Firstly, while ghost movies from other Southeast Asian countries lay a certain emphasis on technology (camera in Parkpoom Wongpoom and Banjong Pisanthanakun’s 2004 Shutter, videotape in Nakata Hideo’s 1998 Ringu, phone in Miike Takashi’s 2003 Chakushin-ari, internet in Kurosawa Kiyoshi’s 2001 Cairo), many Korean ghost movies are concerned with “adolescent sensibility,” what Choi Jinhee refers to as “A Cinema of Girlhood.”[10] The famous Whispering Corridors (Yeogo goedam) series is the best example. Secondly, shamanism remains very important in Korean culture;[11] it is therefore not surprising to see shamans involved in the fight against evil spirits, as in gripping Choi Do-hoon’s 2019 TV series Possessed (Bingui).

Now a Chinese tale of the early fifteenth century tells almost exactly the same story, except that the victim is a young girl called Ko-Ngai, and that she was not pushed

Thirdly, soundtracks are often taken from masterpieces of classical music: Éric Satie’s Gnossienne No. 1 in Song Il-gon’s 2004 Spider Forest (Geomi sup) and the world-

15 famous O sacrum convivium in Choi Ik-wan’s 2005 Voice (Moksori). Fourthly, the acting of the cast achieves a yet unequalled power and authenticity.

Fig.1

Is it still relevant to talk about ghosts in the 21st century? As pointed out by the Californian sociologist Avery F. Gordon: “Haunting is a constituent element of modern social life. It is neither premodern superstition nor individual psychosis; it is a generalizable social phenomenon of great import. To study social life one must confront the ghostly aspect of it.”[13]

Fig.2

Ghost Movies or Horror Movies?

Should ghost movies be referred to as horror movies?

Sometimes yes, but not always. Jeong Beom-sik’s 2018 Gonjiam: Haunted Asylum (Gonjiam) obviously aims to scare spectators (and it works!), which dovetails with the views of Michael Kleinod when he wrote that “the relationship between humans and spirits is less a question of belief than of fear.”[12] But Korean ghosts are much sadder and fuller of suffering than they are frightening and dangerous creatures: The best way to understand what a ghost feels is to watch Song Il-gon’s Spider Forest (Fig. 4), indisputably the most intelligent ghost movie of the 21st century.

The Author

Fig. 4. Movie poster of Song Ilgon’s Spider Forest.

References Cho, D., & Bouchez, D. (2002). Histoire de la littérature coréenne des origines à 1919. Fayard, pp. 96, 201, 249.

[2] Im, B., & Yi, R. (1913). Korean folk tales: Imps, ghosts, and fairies.

[Trans. J. S. Gale]. E. P. Dutton.

[3] Jewett, E. M. (1966). Which was witch? Tales of ghosts and magic from Korea. Illustrated by Taro Yashima. New York: The Viking Press.

[4] Shin, Jee-young (2005). Globalization and New Korean Cinema. In: Shin Chi-yun and Julian Stringer (Eds.) New Korean Cinema. Edinburgh: Edinburgh University press, p. 57.

[5] Goodman, Henry (1949). The selected writings of Lafcadio Hearn. New York: The Citadel Press, pp. 89-93.

[6] Richards, A. (2010). Asian horror (p. 15). Kamera Books.

[7] Peirse, A., & Martin, D. (2013). Introduction. In A. Peirse & D. Martin (Eds.), Korean horror cinema (p. 3). Edinburgh University Press.

[8] Lee H. (2013). Family, death, and the wonhon in four films of the 1960s. In A. Peirse & D. Martin (Eds.), Korean horror cinema (pp. 25– 34). Edinburgh University Press.

[9] Olivelle, P. (1998). Hair and society: Social significance of hair in south Asian tradition. In A. Hiltebeitel & B. D. Miller (Eds.), Hair: Its power and meaning in Asian culture (pp. 11–49). State University of New York Press.

[10] Choi, J. (2009). A cinema of girlhood: Sonyeo sensibility and the decorative impulse in the Korean horror cinema. In J. Choi & M. WadaMarciano (Eds.), Horror to the extreme: Changing boundaries in Asian cinema. (pp. 39–56). Hong Kong University Press.

[11] Pettid, M. J. (2009). Shamans, ghosts, and hobgoblins amidst Korean folk customs. SOAS-AKS Working Papers in Korean Studies, 6, 1–13.

[12] Tappe O., Salverda T., Hollington A., Kloss S., & Schneider N. (2016).

Global modernities and the (re-)emergence of hosts. Voices, 2, 3. (Global South Studies Center.)

[13] Gordon Avery F. (2008) Ghostly matters. Haunting and the sociological imagination (p. 7). University of Minnesota Press.

[1]

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Régis Olry, M.D. (France), is professor of anatomy at the University of Quebec at Trois-Rivieres (Canada).

In the early 1990s, he worked in Germany with Gunther von Hagens, the inventor of plastination and the BodyWorld exhibitions. He currently studies the concept of Asian ghosts in collaboration with his wife who is a painter (see www.gedupont.com).

Fig. 3. A typical wonhon (Korean Ghost Stories, Jeolseolui Gohyang, 2008).

March 2020

16 LBlast from the Past

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March 2020

blast from the past

Burying the Dead in Korea Traveling along the expressway or the railway to Seoul, or anywhere in Korea, one is sure to see the hillsides dotted with pockets of grassy mounds – traditional burial sites. In his “The Korean Way” column in the Gwangju News, Prof. Shin Sang-soon (1922–2011) several times dealt with the subject of burying the dead in Korea. Here we compile three of Prof.

Shin’s articles for a composite picture of the topic: “The Way of Burying the Dead” (February 2003), “Why Graves Are Moved from One Place to Another” (November 2004), and “Change of Mode of Burial” (September 2010). We would also like to note that his September 2010 article was Prof. Shin’s final contribution to his “The Korean Way” column before his passing months later. — Ed.

THE KOREAN FUNERAL

I

A funeral manager, called hosang chaji (호상차지), is invited to take charge of the entire funeral ceremony.

He is usually a friend of the deceased, who is supposed to be very familiar with the funeral process. A flowerdecked altar is prepared in the house, and a picture of the deceased draped in a black ribbon is placed in the center. To one side in front of the altar, the children of the deceased, now called sangje (상제, mourners), stand in the order of age, with the eldest being the closest to the altar to receive condolence callers.

When a death occurs in a family, of either a parent or a grandparent, the news is immediately dispatched to all family and relatives, who then come to the house to prepare a shroud for the deceased and funeral clothes for close relatives. If the house is an independent and separate building with a fairly large courtyard, a large tent may be set up to receive guests. Room space is not readily available for visitors because it is occupied by those preparing the funeral clothes and the food for the funeral, and by relatives from far and near.

The shrouding usually takes place on the second day, the ritual in which a hemp or silk shroud is placed around the body of the deceased from head to foot. Afterwards, the shroud is secured around the corpse in seven places with hemp rope and placed in the coffin. Direct and distant kin wear hemp funeral clothes.

n a traditional Korean funeral ceremony, the body of the deceased will usually rest at home for at least three days after death, before being carried to the final resting place. Interment usually takes place on the 3rd, 5th, or 7th day after death depending on the situation.

If any members of the bereaved family are far away from home and their presence at the funeral is considered necessary, the funeral rites are delayed, but customarily it is a three-day affair.

Traditional-style funeral procession. (SJ News)

The funeral procession to the gravesite starts with the removal of the coffin to the funeral bier, called sangyeo (상여). It starts on the third day after death if it is a three-day funeral. The bier is carried by 8, 12, or 16 male pallbearers, normally villagers or friends. Usually the male family mourners follow the bier to the burial site. If the deceased was a man of renown and virtue, dozens of funeral banners with laudatory phrases written on them follow the bier, donated by those attending the funeral.

The gravesite is selected by a jigwan (지관, geomancer, or literally “earth diviner”) as a blessed site after studying the lay of the land and the surrounding area. At the burial site, an interment ritual is held before the coffin is lowered into the ground.

17

Korean traditional graves. (iclickart)

RELOCATING GRAVES

Koreans show particular concern about the location of gravesites of their ancestors. The relocation of the graves of noted celebrities’ ancestors is always newsworthy and never fails to attract public interest. Several decades ago, former president Kim Dae-jung relocated his father’s grave to a new site in Yongin, south of Seoul, when he was the presidential candidate. It was thought that the new site might be a better “blessed site” and more auspicious for the deceased’s offspring. Sure enough, Kim Dae-jung was elected president!

From this, we can surmise that Koreans have regarded life and death as a relationship between yang and yin, that is, between heaven and earth. Yang represents the positive or assertive cosmic force. Yin represents the negative or passive force. These twin forces are the two fundamental, interactive forces of nature, exerting influence on each other and initiating movement.

They explain the perpetual change in all things. One cannot exist without the other. We cannot experience light without darkness, stillness without movement, happiness without sadness, and so on. To be in balance, one must be in harmony with these two forces.

To build the ancestral yin-house in a blessed site is an attempt to exert affirmative influence on the living offspring. Likewise, a yin-house in a non-blessed site exerts negative influence. At the core of the concept of reburial lies the bones of the deceased as the connecting link between the deceased and their offspring. Bones

March 2020

Why is ancestral grave relocation so newsworthy in Korea? To understand this peculiar social phenomenon, one must understand Koreans’ views of life and death.

According to their traditional outlook on life and death, when a person dies, not everything related to the person disappears. For them, death means the separation of the hon (혼, soul) and baek (백, spirit). Hon is regarded as the nature of yang, bestowed by heaven, and when one dies it returns to heaven. Baek is regarded as the nature of yin,

The concept of “house” during the Joseon Dynasty included not only the “yang-house” (yang-gye, 양계), where the living reside, but also the yin-house, where the baek of the deceased reside.

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Another political personage, Kim Jong-pil, also relocated his father’s grave to a blessed site, which created the rumor that he was also expecting to run for the highest seat in the country. Then in 2004, the presidential candidate of the Grand National Party, Lee Hoi-chang, relocated his father’s grave, which was also widely reported by the media.

bestowed by the earth, and when one dies it returns to the earth with one’s body. That is, the grave where one is buried is the place where one’s baek resides, called a “yinhouse” (eum-gye, 음계).

18

Royal Silla burial mounds.

residing in a blessed site transmit good energy to their offspring, while those in a non-blessed site transmit bad energy.

CHANGING BURIAL PRACTICES

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March 2020

In recent times, the problem of burial space has become a national issue. According to statistics, the area occupied by the dead is greater than that occupied by the living. Over a decade ago, Seoul municipal authorities attempted to set aside a portion of its administrative area to provide a large cemetery for Seoul residents. The plan, however, met with vehement opposition from the residents of the nearby area because of the feeling of repugnance that a cemetery at their doorstep would give. Seoul tried to persuade the citizens that the city was in dire need of such a public facility for convenient burials, but to no avail.

The Korean burial method has traditionally been subterranean interment; that is, burying the coffin in the earth on a hillside with an earthen mound on top. This practice includes pungsu-jiri (풍수지리, geomancy), the selection of a “blessed site” as the location for the grave.

According to geomancy, a “blessed site” is required to guarantee good fortune and happiness for the offspring of the deceased. This is why so many people have roamed the mountainsides in search of an auspicious burial site. If a site has a mountain to its back with a flowing stream in front (背山臨水, 배산임수), a fine view, terrain on the left resembling a blue dragon (左靑龍, 좌청룡) and terrain on the right resembling a white tiger (右白虎, 우백호), then the location is supposed to be a blessed site. But such sites have now been exhausted. It is presently even difficult to find an ordinary spot for a gravesite.

This shortage of burial grounds has forced the government and social organizations to look toward another mode of burial: cremation. Statistics show that the cremation ratio is increasing annually. It was 13.7% in 1980, 17.8% in 1991, 33.7% in 2000, 52.6% in 2005, 61.9% in 2008, [and 82.7%

in 2016]. We can see that five sixths of Korean funerals now involve cremation. Cremated remains are generally treated in one of three ways: stored in a columbarium, interred in a tree burial, and buried in a natural burial.

A columbarium (納骨堂, 납골당, napgol-dang) is a repository where cremated remains are stored. The remains are placed in a small ceramic or wooden pot that is stored in a niche within a structure of multi-tiered compartments, so that one building may contain thousands of pots, thus making huge burial grounds unnecessary.

In the case of a tree burial, the bereaved family will choose either an evergreen or deciduous tree (not too young) for the tree burial. They place the cremated ashes in an unbaked clay pot and bury it under the tree, or scatter the ashes around the base of the tree, and hang on the tree a plastic tag or plaque with the deceased’s name and dates of birth and death inscribed on it. In time, the tree will grow larger and form a fine specimen. Some time ago, one of the prominent clans of Korea declared that it would conduct its clan funerals by tree burial. Many others are sure to follow suit.

Traditional Jeollanam-do gravesite.

19 A natural burial is like a tree burial, but instead of using a single tree, a natural burial selects a garden of flowering shrubbery as a suitable burial ground. A small hole, large enough to hold the clay urn, is dug amongst the shrubbery and the ground is leveled after the urn is placed underground. A memorial slab is placed over it with the deceased’s name and dates of birth and death on it. There is not much disturbance to the surroundings. In time, the unbaked clay pot will disintegrate into the soil with its ashes to nourish the plants. No damage is done to the area. The burial site looks the same as before – as natural as before. That is why it is called a natural burial.

Now a growing number of people use cremation as their preferred mode of burial, and various organizations – municipal, religious, and commercial – have built columbaria for social services. Bereaved families can use these facilities at a reasonable price. This has alleviated many municipalities’ difficulties in providing sufficient burial facilities for their residents.

“REST IN PEACE”

The largest memorial park in the Gwangju area is Youngrak Park, located in a wooded area of Buk-gu in the direction of Damyang. It contains cemeteries, a crematorium, and several columbaria within the park area.

Compiled and supplemented by David Shaffer

YOUNGRAK PARK 영락공원

David Shaffer is a long-time resident of Gwangju. In 2020, he is spending his fifth Year of the Rat here. He has written about the lunar calendar and Lunar New Year customs in Seasonal Customs of Korea (Hollym). Dr. Shaffer is the chairman of the board at the Gwangju International Center and the editor-inchief at the Gwangju News.

March 2020

170 Yeongnak-gongwon-ro, Hyoryeong- dong, Buk-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 북구 효령동 영락공원로 170 062-2572-4384

The Editor

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Youngrak Park. (Namdo News)

20 Lost in Gwangju

Evicting God

The Exodus of Hak-dong’s Condemned Churches

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March 2020

TRAVEL

Written and photographed by Isaiah Winters

E

runs parallel to the city’s only subway line, with one stop conveniently located at each end. Once the new lines are completed, the junction at Namgwangju Station will only further boost the area’s accessibility.

Take one look at a map and you’ll understand why developers want Hak-dong leveled. The neighborhood sits on primo land conveniently triangulated between Namgwangju Market, Chosun University, and the Gwangju Stream. What’s more, the redevelopment zone

Nearly the entire area parallel to the Gwangju Stream has already been evicted, save for a dwindling batch of holdouts: a run-down dry cleaner, a post-prime karaoke bar, and a waning pulse of seniors who shuffle by the trash heaps and vacant windows without saying a word. The neighborhood’s only remaining hub of social capital appears to be Namgwang Church, which practices some denomination of Presbyterianism.

victions and buyouts for the sake of redevelopment are all the rage these days. Hak-dong is the latest neighborhood to get the boot on behalf of real estate developers and their towering new apartments. All that stands in their way is a dense network of shabby, lowrise homes that offends the present with its allusions to the past – a past they can’t seem to pave over fast enough.

21

Recently, while ambling through an abandoned hillside farmstead in Nam-gu, I caught sight of vivid banners strung up along the Bangrim Tunnel Intersection. Like renegade semaphores, the banners blazoned the message

“We Absolutely Oppose Namseon Church’s Construction!”

Instantly curious, I used my best “Google-fu” to find out more about this incoming church and its backstory.

Long story short, the Seventh-day Adventists of Namseon Church used to convene in the northernmost part of Hakdong’s redevelopment zone before it was razed in 2015 and turned into the soaring, upscale apartment complex seen there today. After losing its house of worship in Hak-dong, Namseon Church began an exodus of sorts in search of a new promised land – a search that remarkably continues to this day.

March 2020

Visit condemned neighborhoods enough and you’ll notice that churches like this are often the most tenacious holdouts. Following their inevitable eviction and demolition, however, an intriguing question is where these deeply embedded churches go after they die, so to speak.

It’s something I’ve always wondered but never looked into – that is, until the issue stared me in the face not too long ago.

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Namgwang Church remains very active despite being in a condemned neighborhood of Hak-dong.

22

A resident of Bangrim-dong adjusts her banner protesting the church’s construction.

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March 2020

Based on what I could find, in 2016, Namseon Church attempted to buy land in Unrim-dong along the busy valley entrance to Mudeung National Park. Unfortunately, relations with the local community quickly began to sour.

According to a plea letter issued by residents of Unrimdong, they were upset that the church had significantly underreported the size of its congregation and the amount of traffic it would bring to the narrow valley. Facing ardent resistance, Namseon Church was turned out once again and has since continued to wander through the urban wilderness in search of another home.

That’s where the protest banners in Bangrim-dong come into play. Residents there have taken an emphatic stance against Namseon Church’s proposed construction in a hilly, forested part of their neighborhood that they’d rather see turned into a public park. Usually, hanging up a few roadside banners is about as far as public protests go, but to my surprise, at least twenty-five nearby apartments were also flying similar banners from their veranda railings. An official opposition rally was held in Bangrim-dong on Thursday, February 13 – the day before I stumbled upon the area. Local opposition is

rather eclectic, including two of Bangrim 2-dong’s local residents’ committees and a voluntary crime prevention group.

Also against the new project is the Saemaeul Council and Saemaeul Women’s Society, in addition to residents of both the Geumho Mansion and Gwangshin Progress apartment complexes, who’ve festooned their blocks with protest banners. There are likely many more nearby residents who similarly oppose the new construction, though as individuals.

Further opposition to the church’s construction comes from a group of rogue terrace farmers who sidestep the hills’ “No Farming” signage and till the land at their leisure. The terraces are impressively maintained and ring the hills from top to bottom like giant steps.

In one area, the hillside is notched with as many as ten such terraces, each either meticulously cultivated or purposely left fallow. In all likelihood, these farmers will eventually get the short end of the stick: A new, manicured park would likely crowd them out, while a new church would likely make parking lots of it all.

23 It’s unclear who’s going to make the next move in this stalemate. As it stands, the abandoned farmstead has been gutted and some of the nearby bamboo thickets cleared – preludes to the church’s construction.

Meanwhile, protest banners continue to fly and rogue farmers continue to farm. The tense standoff in this sleepy little corner of Gwangju is just one of the many overlooked ripple effects of redevelopment.

What’s for certain is that the remaining redevelopment zone in Hak-dong will come crashing down so that unaffordable housing can go up. With it goes Namgwang Church – that last pulse of civic life in the condemned area. Maybe its followers will get lucky and set up a new house of worship somewhere else with little to no resistance. Or maybe – like Namseon Church – they’ll begin a prolonged exodus all their own.

The Author

Originally from Southern California, Isaiah Winters is a Gwangjubased urban explorer who enjoys writing about the City of Light’s lesser-known quarters. When he’s not roaming the streets and writing about his experiences, he’s usually working or fulfilling his duties as the Gwangju News’ heavily caffeinated chief proofreader.

A gutted farmstead in Bangrim-dong sits on the land sought by Namseon Church.

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March 2020

Namgwang Church remains very active despite being in a condemned neighborhood of Hak-dong.

24 From Abroad

Liberating the Dharma for Women Visiting a Revolutionary Buddhist Monastery in Thailand Written and photographed by Michael Goonan

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March 2020

TRAVEL

A

t first glance, Wat Songdhammakalyani is a familiar sight in Thailand. Situated along a busy road about 50 km outside of Bangkok, this Theravada Buddhist monastery is an oasis within the noise and busyness of modern urban life. Home to around 30 monastic novices dressed in traditional saffron robes, the monastery is peppered with various Buddhist shrines and meditation halls, an extensive library of books in various languages, dormitories for monastics and lay visitors, and a serene and quiet courtyard with a koi pond. A dozen dogs roam freely around the grounds, living an idyllic animal’s life. Chanting, meditation, and readings of the Buddhist scriptures are held at 5:30 each morning and 7:00 each evening, and lay people from the community often visit the temple to take part. Other special ceremonies and offerings take place to mark important Thai holy days and in remembrance of ancestors. Many of these ancient traditions predate Buddhism, which has long since embraced them.

activities in practice. A 2003 profile in the American Buddhist magazine Lion’s Roar speculates, “Perhaps it’s an example of the Thai value of mai pen rai, or ‘never mind,’ where people ignore what they don’t like rather than actively oppose it.” Perhaps.

Traditional as this scene may seem in Southeast Asia, one thing makes it very different – in fact, revolutionary. The temple is run completely by women, under the direction of their abbess, Ven. Dhammananda Bhikkuni. This would be unremarkable in other countries, including Korea, where female monastics have been part of the fabric of society for centuries. Yet, in Thailand, female monastics, Bhikkunis, are considered to be illegitimate by the religious establishment. The reasoning goes that the lineage of Bhikkunis died out in Thailand sometime in the 10th century, making it impossible for female monastics to receive proper ordination and training. Male monks are forbidden from ordaining female monastics and could face punishment for doing so. For this reason, Dhammananda received her monastic ordination in Sri Lanka in 2003.

Buddhist monastics are so revered in Thai society that even the king bows in their presence. Impersonating a monastic is a crime punishable by several months in prison. Dhammanada and her students are not officially recognized as monastics, so they are technically in violation of this law. However, the Buddhist establishment in Thailand does not interfere with her monastery’s

Wat Songdhammakalyani, Thailand.

25

Though while her work has certainly caused controversy in Thailand, Dhammananda also has many supporters.

The Bangkok Post has called her ordination “momentous in the development of Buddhism in Thailand.”

A Thai senator took up the cause in the legislative chamber, recommending that women be allowed to be ordained. Perhaps most telling, however, is the way that the local community supports the monastery.

Unlike other monasteries in Thailand, which receive government assistance, this one runs entirely on the generosity of lay followers. A number of Western Buddhists supportive of Dhammananda’s work have also been among those to provide financial support.

Dhammananda’s mother, Ven. Voramai (known as “Venerable Grandma” to her lay followers), had paved the way for her.

Ordained as a nun in the more liberal Mahayana tradition in Taiwan, she returned to Thailand and started the monastery in the 1950s. For three decades, Dhammananda was a professor of philosophy and religious studies at Thammasat University in Bangkok. She speaks English fluently and did her master’s degree there. According to a profile by the German public broadcaster DW, “She published books on women and Buddhism and even had a television show called “Dharma Talk,” which gained national popularity and won several awards.”

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March 2020

26 Despite her academic success and following, Dhammananda grew discontented and longed to follow in her mother’s footsteps and be ordained. She chose to do this in Sri Lanka, a fellow Theravada Buddhist country where women’s ordination had been reestablished in 1998 after many centuries. Her work since has been a unique blend of Buddhist traditionalism and modernism, linking traditional Theravada practice with more modern ideals of engaged Buddhism, particularly in relation to women’s liberation.

Four Days Practicing the Dharma at Wat Songdhammakalyani

I was very fortunate to be able to spend four days at the temple in January during a visit to Thailand. Ordinarily, female visitors are allowed to stay overnight at the temple. Since I was traveling with my wife, Emily, I had permission to visit with her, although we had to stay in separate rooms. We have had an interest in Buddhism for many years, leading us to read many books on Buddhist philosophy and practice meditation in our free time.

The first “medicine Buddha” in a temple in Thailand.

This has included a number of temple stays in Korea, that we have found very enriching. I also visited a female-run monastery in Taiwan as part of a 2012 university travel course on Chinese philosophy.

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March 2020

These have all been quite enriching experiences; however, all have fallen under the Mahayana tradition in Buddhism.

Therefore, my visit to Wat Songdhammakalyani was my first exposure to Theravada Buddhism in practice.

Theravada, also known as “tradition of the elders”, predates Mahayana Buddhism by several centuries and is often more conservative in its practices. For example, monastics at Wat Songdhammakalyani observe the traditional precept of not eating after noon. In contrast, Mahayana monks in Korea do eat dinner, but they follow other dietary restrictions that Thai monks do not, namely, avoiding “strong herbs” such as garlic and onions.

Statue of Vorami, founder of the monastery.

While chanting is often done in the local vernacular in Mahayana Buddhist countries, including Korea, the chanting at Wat Songdhammakalyani is done in Pali, the ancient Indian language of many of the Buddhist scriptures. A Western analogy could be traditional

27 Catholic mass held in Latin. My attempts at chanting in this difficult-to-pronounce language provided Emily with a lot of entertainment.

All of this was surprisingly accessible, however. While the monks do not eat after noon, visitors are served a delicious Thai vegetarian dinner unless they decline.

Full English translations of the chanting were provided to us, and we were also lucky to have the help of Ven. Dhammaparipunna, a monastic who speaks very good English. She sat behind us during readings of the Buddhist scriptures in Thai and translated them into English for us.

While early-morning and evening chanting and meditation were regular parts of our schedule, we also had a great deal of free time to devote to our personal sitting and walking meditation practice and study. The monastery had a stunningly extensive English library.

In addition to books on Buddhism were books on other religions, science, philosophy, psychology and much more. We even got the chance to feed the fish in the koi pond!

Annual Membership Fee: General: 40,000 won; Student: 20,000 won; Group: 20,000 won (min. 10 persons).

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THE AUTHOR

March 2020

Michael Goonan teaches English at Baeksu Elementary School in Yeonggwang. Originally from Scranton, Pennsylvania, he has also lived in the Czech Republic, New Zeeland, Australia, and the Netherlands. He blogs about travel, culture, politics, and more at Goonan.us

Bank Transfer: Kwangju Bank (사)광주국제교류센터: 134-107-000999 Paypal: gic@gic.or.kr Inquiry: gwangjunews@gic.or.kr or 062-226-2733

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Our visit to the monastery was a peaceful and enjoyable experience. If you are near Bangkok and you are a woman (or are lucky enough to be married to one), I highly recommend visiting. You will surely be inspired by the experience. More information on how to arrange a visit, either overnight or simply during the day, can be found at www.thaibhikkhunis.com

The Gwangju International Center (GIC) is a nonprofit organization established in 1999 to promote cultural understanding and to build a better community among Koreans and international residents. By being a member, you can help support our mission and make things happen! Join us today and receive exciting benefits!

• One-year free subscription and delivery of the Gwangju News magazine.

• Free use of the GIC library.

• Free interpretation and counseling services from the GIC. • Discounts on programs and events held by the GIC. • Up-to-date information on GIC events through our email newsletter.

FOOD & DRINKS

During our first day at the monastery, we helped with what is one of the most meticulous recycling programs I have ever seen. As part of their practice of engaged Buddhism, the monks meticulously clean and sort all of their waste to ensure it has the best chance of being recycled. This apparently amounts to an hour or two of work each day, with the goal of leaving not a speck of dirt on any plastic bottle or allowing any compostable food to go to waste.

Support the GIC! Be a Member!

28 Around Korea

Gyeongju’s Temple Experiences

TRAVEL

Written and photographed by Melline Galani

Bulguksa

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March 2020

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here is no argument that Gyeongju, the former capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla, has become one of the most popular tourist destinations in South Korea. Home to not just one but several UNESCO World Heritage Sites and 31 national treasures, it is bound to be an unforgettable visit. What you will find here are two of my favorite temples in Korea; one known for its beauty and architecture, the other for its templestay program.

My first favorite temple is Bulguksa (불국사). It was one of many “firsts” that I experienced on my maiden voyage to South Korea. It was love at first sight. It also became the place where I experienced my first and only meditation and, consequently, where the vision about my future life in Korea was revealed to me. Originally built in 528 during the Silla Dynasty, Bulguksa was later rebuilt by Kim Daeseong (700–774), a chief minister in the Silla Kingdom, in the year 751. Unfortunately, the temple caught fire during the Imjin War (1592–1598). After this time, the temple suffered further damage and was often the target

of robbers. Restorations were made over the centuries, often based on ancient descriptions, but the complex is now much smaller than the original.

The temple is accepted as the quintessence of Buddhist architecture. With colorful tiles decorating the underside of the roof and large statues of the Four Heavenly Kings at the entrance, it is truly a sight to behold. Along the way, you will pass by a beautiful pond, and just outside the temple, you will be greeted by one of the most beautiful façades of any temple in Korea. The temple was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 and remains active today, with monks chanting and performing Buddhist rituals in every hall. On top of its rich history, Bulguksa also encompasses seven of South Korea’s national treasures. In my opinion, anyone who plans a trip to South Korea should definitely visit Bulguksa.

My second favorite temple in the Gyeongju area is Golgulsa (골굴사). Located at the foot of Hamwol

29 Mountain, Golgulsa houses twelve caves in a tall cliff, with a rock-carved statue of Buddha sitting at the highest point. Here anyone can experience a one-of-a-kind temple stay and the Korean Buddhist martial art known as sunmudo (선무도) from Buddhist monks themselves.

This is a perfect opportunity to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life and find inner peace at this relaxing haven. Sunmudo is a mixture of moving meditation and reflective martial art. It emphasizes the harmony of body and mind through observing one’s breathing. Its origins can be traced back a thousand years.

I discovered this temple through my Romanian friend who wanted to become a certified sunmudo trainer. She applied for a two-year volunteer training program and was accepted, which made her the first (and, as of this article, the only) Romanian in history to participate in this program. During her time at Golgulsa, she did volunteer work, lived like a monk, and learned sunmudo. Together with my children, I was lucky enough to experience the temple-stay program during a weekend in the spring of 2018. That weekend was my friend’s examination day, so we were also able to be there to support her.

We did sunmudo training, ate temple food (vegan but delicious), participated in Buddhist rituals, rode horses, and practiced archery. It was an amazing weekend with a lot of experiences that my kids loved. Moreover, we

importantly, the view of the surroundings from the clifftop is remarkable.

During my trip there, I saw many foreigners interested in either learning sunmudo or experiencing a temple stay in Korea. Luckily, the staff there can speak decent English, with foreign volunteers there as well to help you. For those interested in trying any of the programs that Golgulsa has to offer, their official homepage has further information.

▲ Sunmudo examination.

Golgulsa also offers winter and summer camps for kids, so parents can send their children there for a new and special experience. Moreover, volunteers are always welcome during these camps should parents want to help out themselves. Additionally, from time to time, there are special tea ceremonies that provide a great opportunity for tea enthusiasts to learn more about Korean tea practices.

GOLGULSA ONLINE English version: www.golgulsa.com Korean version: golgulsa.templestay.com Facebook page: Sunmudo Templestay Golgulsa (sometimes with Korean and English content)

A pavilion at Golgulsa.

March 2020

got the chance to see how our friend passed the difficult examination.

For those who are not passionate about learning any martial art, Golgulsa is still worth visiting. The temple itself is really beautiful, despite its small size, and the huge stone Buddha statue on the top of the cliff is splendid. (It is designated as Treasure No. 581 and has a dimension of four meters in height and 2.2 meters in width.) More

Melline Galani is a Romanian enthusiast, born and raised in the capital city of Bucharest, who is currently living in Gwangju. She likes new challenges, learning interesting things, and is incurably optimistic.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The Author

FOOD & DRINKS

30 Restaurant Review

Cafe Fantasy

Mokpo’s Fantasy Coffee Shop Written and photographed by Sarah Pittman

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

W

hen I first saw Cafe Fantasy, I thought that it was a building straight out of Howl’s Moving Castle. When looking up at this building composed of shipping containers stacked one on top of the other and decorated to look like ancient Korean sailing vessels, it seems to be sailing through the sky.

Through some initial sleuthing on Instagram, I had found that the cafe is located on an island in the middle of a bay in Mokpo and is accessible either by car or by the new cable cars, so it was perfect for me.

The bright Sunday morning when I took the train from Gwangju to Mokpo felt like the beginning credits for a Studio Ghibli movie, with the Korean countryside and aged brickwork train stations on the way to Mokpo rushing past. After arriving in Mokpo, my map said that it would only be a thirty-minute walk from the station to the cable car station I could take to the cafe. What my map failed to mention was that the “thirty-minute walk” ended with an arduous uphill hike. So, what had been

labeled a “thirty-minute walk” ended up turning into an hour-long slog. I’d definitely suggest taking a taxi to the top of the hill instead if you are not in the mood for the required exercise.

The best way to get to Cafe Fantasy, if you don’t have a car, is the new Mokpo cable car. It costs 25,000 won for a standard round-trip ticket or 27,000 won for a “Crystal Car” round-trip ticket. I bought the Crystal Car ticket because it boasted of having a clear floor for viewing the ground and ocean below you. However, the bottom of my cable car was heavily scratched, so I’d suggest saving a couple bucks.

The cafe is only about a 10-minute walk from the station, but there is quite a steep staircase and hill to climb before getting there, so my hiking wasn’t done yet. Cafe Fantasy is on the first floor of the structure, and the second through fifth floors contain a free mini museum showcasing Mokpo’s fishing and boat-building past with photo spots

31 There is also roof access with a beautiful panoramic view of the entire island, which I highly recommend.

Cafe Fantasy is filled with greenery, paintings, and multiple long windows, with bar seats and tables for people to sit at and enjoy their coffees, teas, sodas, ice creams, and pastries. I set my heart on a beautifullooking raspberry tart, and paired it with a latte and one of their three special single region, hand drip coffees. As I watched the barista pour the latte foam and the hand drip coffee, it became clear that they take immense pride in making exceptional coffee at Cafe Fantasy.

The Ethiopia Gedep Butucha Washed variety of coffee was quite fruity in flavor, and it reminded me a lot of 72 percent dark chocolate. It went spectacularly with the raspberry tart because the fruity flavors worked so well together. The tart itself, however, left much to be desired.

While its crust was flaky and buttery, the center of the berries were frozen, and it tasted more like raspberry jam than a proper filling.

Overall, I’d definitely suggest setting aside a day to visit this fantastical structure by the sea to marvel at the view of the boats sailing by over a fantastic cup of coffee, but you may want to stick to their ice cream.

The Author

Sarah Pittman is an English teacher with a degree in psychology from California State University, Fullerton. She discovered her love for photography while working at Disneyland and has been honing her craft with practice and YouTube videos ever since.

▲ View of Mokpo’s bridge connecting Cafe Fantasy’s island with the city across the bay.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

Cafe Fantasy’s raspberry tart.

32 Korean Recipe

Eomuk Bokkeum Stir-Fried Fish Cake Written by Joe Wabe

E

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

FOOD & DRINKS

omuk (어묵) or fish cake, was introduced into Korea during the Japanese occupation. The exact origin of this product is unclear, but its main ingredient, which is a paste made from corvina or cuttlefish mixed with sugar, flour, salt, and starch, has been around in Asia for centuries..

The booming of the eomuk industry in Korea began after the 1950s, when the first processing plant by the name of Samjin Fish Cake was founded. From there, its popularity spread slowly, reaching a high point in the 1990s in Busan, when it became trendy for food trucks to serve it on the streets along with a hot broth in a paper cup. It became one of the most popular street foods in the winter season. Still in contemporary Korea, the eomuk from Busan is considered one of the best in the nation.

Eomuk comes in different types and shapes and is also known as odeng (오뎅); however, for this dish I prefer using the rectangle flat shape, which is the most commonly used.

Stir-fried fish cake is one of my favorite banchan (반찬) or side dishes. I always feel excited when a meal is served and this side dish comes along. Admittedly, it is hard to stop eating. It is very tasty and goes well with any main dish in any season, and is also very easy to prepare. This dish can be made mild or spicy according to people’s tastes and, for some, their mood (e.g., many Koreans crave spicy food when feeling blue).

Let’s start this spring simple with an elegant recipe!

Ingredients

The Author

Joe Wabe is a Gwangju expat, who has been contributing to the GIC and the Gwangju News for more than ten years with his work in photography and writing.

• • • • • • • • • • •

(Serves 6)

5 sheets of eomuk 1/2 of a medium size carrot cut in julienne strips 1 tablespoon of minced garlic 1 green onion chopped in tiny “coins” 1 small pack of Vienna style sausages (optional) 1 red pepper 1 medium sliced onion 2 tablespoons of soy sauce 2 tablespoons of corn syrup 1 tablespoons of red pepper flakes A pinch of black pepper

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• 2 tablespoons of sesame seed oil • 1 tablespoon of sesame seed

March 2020

Before preparation, boil a pot of water. After it has reached the boiling point, turn off the heat and put in the fish cake sheets for about three minutes. Drain, let it cool, and then cut it into cubed slices or desirable sizes. Heat a frying pan and add a tablespoon of sesame oil over medium heat. Add and stir-fry the sausages first for about two minutes, then add the fish cakes. Continue stir-frying for another two minutes and then add the rest of the vegetables plus one more tablespoon of sesame seed oil. At this point, you can add the soy sauce and stir for a minute, followed by the syrup, then the red pepper power, and continue stirring for the next two to three minutes. Finally, add the sesame seeds and black pepper, stir for another minute, and turn the heat off. Let it cool down before serving.

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Preparation

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March 2020

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

34

The Hi Roll skating area.

Foreign students learn Taekwondo at Master Kim’s gym location.

Taekwondo Classes Taught in English

H

Written and photographed by Erin Heath Kim

ave you ever thought about learning a martial Maybe you don’t know where to start, or you worry about the language barrier. If you’ve ever wanted to find out more about taekwondo (태권도) or taekkyeon (택견) you should consider Jikimi Taekwondo (지킴이 태권도).

In English, jikimi translates to “protector.” The martial arts master of Jikimi is Kim Jae-min. He’s been teaching taekwondo in English to foreign students in Gwangju for over ten years and has a 6th-degree black belt (yukdan, 육단) in taekwondo. He loves meeting people from all over the world and teaching them the martial arts of Korea.

“

The martial arts master of Jikimi is Kim Jae-min. He’s been teaching taekwondo ... for over ten years and has a 6th-degree blackbelt.

”

In the past, Master Kim and his foreign students have participated in Gwangju International Center (GIC) events by performing taekwondo. Through his international students, he’s also picked up the hobby of collecting paper money and coins from around the world. I’ve been adding

to his American quarter collection through the years. (I should also mention that he’s my husband, so of course, I’m very proud of his accomplishments and his gym).

English taekwondo classes are taught three times per week in the evening on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 8:30 to 9:30 p.m. Along with the basic moves, poomsae (품새) patterns, kicking, and sparing techniques of taekwondo, he also places a strong focus on physical exercise and incorporates self-defense and other martial arts skills into the class. It’s a great way to work out.

Most students who join the class have never taken taekwondo before, so beginners are welcome. But any level can join the class at any time. Belt level tests are given at regular intervals. Students can advance to new belt levels every two to three months. A beginner student can advance to a black belt within 1.5–2 years. There is a one-time uniform fee of 50,000 won and a monthly tuition fee of 110,000 won. If you’re not sure whether taekwondo is for you, you’re welcome to come experience your first class free of charge with no obligation to join. If you like it, sign up and bring a friend!

Master Kim also teaches taekkyeon, which is a separate, more traditional martial art. He’s the 72nd master of taekkyeon in Korea, which he achieved after almost 20 years of study and practice. It’s a unique opportunity in

35

High kick demonstration by Master Kim.

Master Kim, in taekkyeon referee’s uniform, with action star Wesley Sipes (left).

Gwanjgu to have a taekkyeon master able to teach in English.

He teaches taekkyeon on Tuesday and Thursday evenings from 8:20 to 9:30 p.m.

JIKIMI TAEKWONDO Location: In Hyocheon-chigu, past Gwangju University in the Nam-gu area.

Address: 870 Imam-dong, Nam-gu, Huimang Tower 6th floor (광주광역시 남구 임암동 870/효천2로가길 19, 희망타워 6층).

Closest Bus Stops: Gwangju Hyocheon City Paladium (광주효천시티프라디움), Bus 76; Imam (임암), Buses 03, 76, Facebook and Instagram: @jikimitaekwondo. (Contact via Messenger) Phone: 062-675-2200.

Erin Heath Kim is a university English teacher with a master’s in education.

She’s originally from Jackson, Mississippi, and has lived in Gwangju since 2010. She’s married to Master Kim, and they have a son who is five.

They love traveling around Korea together

March 2020

78; Songam-dong (송암동), Buses 68, 70, 75, 78, 79, 99.

The Author

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Taekkyeon has a long history and is the only purely Korean martial art. In 2011, taekkyeon became the first martial art in the world to be listed as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Asset. Last October, Master Kim attended the annual martial arts festival of Chungju (충주시) as a taekkyeon referee where he had the pleasure of meeting the American action star Wesley Snipes who was in Korea to attend the festival and learn about taekkyeon.

36 Expat Living

Married in Saipan A Dream Come True

COMMUNITY

Written and photographed by Katy Clements

A popular sign near Ladder Beach.

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We had to each visit our separate embassies, acquire the necessary paperwork, and then have them translated to Korean before we could apply for our marriage license. I found myself researching destination weddings that were both affordable and logical at the same time; as teachers, most of us are not hoarding massive amounts of wealth.

It was not until a friend of mine talked about taking her children to the Mariana Islands that my fiancé and I researched the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI).

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hen I first started on my journey to teach abroad in Korea, romance was the furthest thing from my mind, but life luckily had other plans for me. I met a Canadian man and fell in love. We dated for two and half years before we decided to make it official. However, to me the marriage process seemed to be daunting.

Saipan caught our attention most of all because of the variety of locations and beaches. Saipan is an American territory that is considered the largest of the Mariana Islands (the second largest is Guam). It is famous for having gorgeous tropical beaches and moderate temperatures. It was considered part of Japanese territory during World Wars I and II but was recognized as a Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands after World War II. In the 1970s, the CNMI became a U.S. territory.

Getting married far from home was a scary, yet exciting idea. The thought of taking this step together, among beaches and waves, was appealing. At the same time, arranging a legal marriage from abroad was intimidating.

Quickly, I emailed a lady named Barbara Yamada whom I found via a Saipan News article. In the article, Yamada mentions that the rate of foreign weddings in Saipan has risen because the requirements have been lowered, allowing people from abroad to legally wed. Typically, both parties would have to submit proof of singleness, but in the CNMI, this requirement has been waived.

According to the mayor’s office, 619 marriages were performed in 2019 alone. Being an American territory, the thought of not having to go through a translation hurdle was appealing – not to mention I would not need to register with my embassy. Yamada was quick to reply and within a week, I was conversing with the CNMI courthouse to reserve a judge to officiate.

While a judge was being arranged, my fiancé and I discussed wanting to capture the moment in photographs.

I did a quick Google search for reputable photographers on the island, and that is when I connected with Myla Deets, owner of Mycaptures Photography. Myla, who has been a photographer for almost three years, focuses her work mainly on student portraits and families, but during the peak season she takes wedding photos as well. In

37 retrospect, I believe I chose the most attuned photographer for us. She was fun, easygoing, and encouraging.

When the time came for our portraits, we felt at home with her.

She acted as our chauffeur as we traveled to our photoshoot destinations. One location was a house amongst a junglelike terrain, and the second was a beach with rocksand. The stones and cliffs amongst the water was breathtaking, and as the sun set, I knew it was a sight I would never forget. If you are in Saipan and are looking for a photographer, I highly recommend Myla.

When I arrived in Saipan I was greeted with warmth and generosity. The staff at the airport was kind, helpful, and accommodating to my fiancé and me. We were greeted at the airport by a gentleman from our resort who was smiling and kind. From then on, life was surreal for me. The weather was warm the entire honeymoon, and luckily for us, we did not experience a drop of rain. The staff at our resort was also accommodating and welcoming.

On the day of our wedding, a staff member at the resort drove us to where we needed to go. Since we had scanned and sent everything via email, our paperwork was ready. The only thing that needed to be taken care of was the payment.

We met our witnesses, Myla and Ashley Pulani, the latter creating a gorgeous flower crown for my photoshoot, and the next few minutes were a whirlwind to me. Though our

families were not there, we did not feel alone. We felt the love from our new friends, and the judge’s words were profound and intimate. I felt I had done something that not many people can say they have done – get married on a tropical island.

If you are looking for a tropical, affordable destination while in this part of the world, I want to recommend Saipan. The people were so kind to us from the moment we landed until we departed. During our honeymoon, we swam with stingray, gorged ourselves on food, and fed an array of tropical fish. We also enjoyed ourselves at the bar, and even won at gambling. If I had a choice, I would return to Saipan’s Kanoa Resort for more unforgettable experiences. I will never forget my time there, and will treasure my memories forever. If you are interested in learning more about getting married on the island of Saipan, contact Barbara Yamada at bayamada@mos.gov. gp.

The Author

Katy Clements is an ESL teacher in Mokpo. She has been living in Korea for four years.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

Photo of the honeymooners taken at Ladder Beach by Myla Deets.

38 Local Antrepreneurs

Attaining Nirvana A Jigsaw Puzzle and a Treasure Hunt

COMMUNITY

Written and photographed by William Urbanski

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

Nirvana

A

has its fair share of foreigners from APAC countries who work in other industries. Among all the people that come to Korea, something that is exceedingly rare are those who start a business.

One of those expats lacks a degree and works in an ice factory (but would teach if he could, no doubt), and another one worked in a bakery. While there are certainly many good and valid reasons why most expats from the above-mentioned countries here are teachers, Korea also

Caleb Sekeres lived in Korea for eight years, during which time he taught, got married, and had two children.

After returning to the States for a few years so that his children could become better acquainted with his side of the family, he came back to Korea with a new agenda: to use his background in theater and the performing arts to create a creative and comfortable space – an environment that lends itself to artistic endeavors. Nirvana, which opened its doors on January 24th, is the product of that

ny expat who has been in Korea for any length of time has surely noticed that the vast majority of expats from Western countries work in the education industry, almost exclusively as teachers and instructors. Personally, I can count on one hand the number of foreigners I have come across from all of Canada, the States, the UK, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa who do not teach.

39 vision. Making the leap from employee to business owner is daunting and fraught with difficulties, even more so when one is a foreigner. Crossing the entrepreneurial chasm successfully confers a number of advantages. As well, it is well understood (but perhaps underappreciated in Korea) that entrepreneurs and small businesses are the backbone of many a successful economy.

Among the many challenges facing a foreign entrepreneur in Korea, Sekeres mentioned that the linguistic hurdles were among the most difficult to overcome and basically fully require the assistance of a native speaker. Sekeres has achieved a Level 4 on the Test of Proficiency in Korean (TOPIK), the notoriously difficult test that has caused even the most dedicated language learners to throw up their hands in frustration. But even Level 4, which means a person has little difficulty living life completely in Korean, is simply not enough for the highly specialized legalese and business terminology required to get a business off the ground. For these matters of acquiring and sorting out documents and licenses, Sekeres largely had to rely on the assistance of his wife, Kim Yun-oo. Kim had to take the lead when determining exactly what documents were needed and then figuring out what procedures and steps had to be followed.

Mr. Sekeres and Mrs. Kim also got a lot of help from an unexpected source. The small business association in Gwangju called the Oesikeop-chungang-hoe (외식업중앙회) was indispensable and facilitated the entire process of opening the business. The small business association works on a membership basis and requires a monthly fee that is well worth it, according to Sekeres. The association helped make arrangements for virtually everything that was required, from the paperwork up to the physical inspections of the space.

put you in a box, limiting what you can do. Contracts and rules are always negotiable and often minor points and concessions are worth fighting for.

One of the reasons I have never really considered opening up a business in Korea (besides my complete lack of business acumen, that is) is the daunting, tangled web of regulations and approvals that stand between an idea and a brick-and-mortar enterprise – or so I thought.

Surprisingly, Sekeres explained that the process of obtaining the proper paperwork (i.e. a business licence) was actually quite streamlined and efficient. This was completely counter-intuitive to me and made the dense jurisdiction surrounding opening a business in Canada seem virtually draconian (e.g., you cannot open a hot dog stand without a slew of inspections and stamps of approval).

Opening a business is no joke and requires copious amounts of work, but speaking to Sekeres made me realize that in Korea, it is not the buck-wild undertaking I thought it was.

The Author

William Urbanski, managing editor of the Gwangju News, has an MA in international relations and cultural diplomacy. He is married to a wonderful Korean woman and has myriad interests, but his true passion is eating pizza.

NIRVANA 너바나 13 Jiho-ro, Jisan-dong, Dong-gu, Gwangju 광주광역시 동구 지호로 13 Tue.–Thu., 6 p.m. – 1 a.m.

Fri.–Sat., 6 p.m. – 2 a.m.

010-4699-2040

March 2020

For those who wish to open a business in Korea, Sekeres offers some additional advice: Try not to compromise on your vision of what is possible. Building owners, leasing agents, food and liquor supply companies, and other people you will have to rely on will all have their own ideas of what they would like you to do. Their cookie-cutter contracts as well as their terms and conditions will try to

Photographs courtesy of Nirvana.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

Nirvana is now a licensed establishment, and one of the interesting things I found out is how the liquor distribution companies (which run the pickup trucks full of booze you have surely seen on the roads) try to force businesses into agreements that, while meeting most of their needs, allow little room for negotiation or customization of the product choices. This means that when looking for certain cocktail ingredients, Sekeres had to do a little more digging than expected, as his vision would not have fit into the “one size fits all” contract proposed by the companies.

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Business Cooperation

Gwangju International Internship Program (GIIP) 2020 Centre des arts d’Enghien-les-Bains Written and photographed by Lee Jeongmin

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March 2020

COMMUNITY

GIC staff and Marie Lesage (center).

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Centres Des Arts, Enghien-les-Bains.

he Gwangju International Center (GIC) is providing global internship opportunities to the Korean youth of our city with financial support from Gwangju City Hall. Participating organizations have their areas of interest in culture, business, social welfare, and human rights among others. Since Gwangju is designated as UNESCO Media Arts Creative City and known nationwide as a city of arts and culture, we would like to give opportunities to Korean youth to have internship experience in cultural fields abroad.

This year, a new organization from France has joined the project. France’s Enghien-les-Bains has been a member of UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network since 2013 and is a Media Arts City. It is also the home of Centres Des Arts (CDA), Enghien’s state-funded digital arts center. Being at the junction of art, science, and technology, the CDA is an innovative hub and an expertise and consulting platform.

For over twelve years, the spa town located at the gateway to Paris has developed a cultural program with ambition and conviction. The CDA has always pursued a bold arts strategy and has established itself at the heart of the artistic landscape, notably since 2005 with the arrival of Bains numériques, the international digital arts biennial (Media Arts Biennale).

Multidisciplinary by vocation, the CDA specializes in production (live performances, exhibitions, installations, audiovisual), distribution, and art initiatives for and with the general public, and it also runs a program of arts residencies to support contemporary artists. International cooperation has also become an important component of Enghien’s digital activity supported by the CDA, which acts as the lead partner on digital innovation projects in the areas of visual art, performance art, and cinema.

Working time.

Due to the new project cooperation with France, GIC coordinators went on a business trip to the new organization last month. They met with the coordinator of the International and European Project corporations, Miss Marie Lesage, and discussed aspects related to the new collaboration project related to commitment and specificities of the GIIP program (Gwangju International Internship Program).

The CDA will conduct orientation and training for the new intern and evaluate his/her performance monthly through reports also sent to GIC, assist the intern in finding accommodation, and help with adaptation to the working environment. On the other hand, the GIC will provide a monthly stipend for the work, travel insurance, and all direct costs related to intern placement at the CDA. The prospective intern will work with the preparation team for the International Media Arts Biennial, Bains numériques, which will take place from June 11 to 14 this year in Enghien-les-Bains. The Biennial is organized all around the city and attracts about 35,000 visitors.

This free-access event is composed of an urban path of artistic installations, a series of shows, performances, and concerts as well as a Digital Factory. After visiting the venue, our center’s staff conclusions were that the CDA’s work environment is a very pleasant one, and the surrounding area is also very clean and safe, and also the collaboration with Marie Lesage was great and fruitful.

The Author

Born is Gwangju, Lee Jeongmin is, since 2015, one of the coordinators at Gwangju International Center. She likes reading books, swimming and hiking.

41

TOPIK GUIDE (topikguide.com) is the most comprehensive website devoted to the TOPIK exam. It has been helping Korean language learners pass the TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean) for more than eight years. On our website, you can get all the TOPIK updates, grammar and vocabulary material, and study tips.

Everyday Korean Episode 27: 취업 (Employment)

By Harsh Kumar Mishra

EDUCATION

Grammar ~에 다니다: Use this to express the meaning “to attend a place.”

Ex: 전남대학교에 다녀요.

I go to (attend) Chonnam National University.

~기 전에: Use this to express “before doing something.”

Ex: 일하기 전에 스펙을 쌓아야 해요.

I have to build my resume before starting to work.

Vocabulary

graduation preparation pile up, build up join a company office life apply experience practice introduce

Vocabulary Terms Related to Hobbies

데지:

Daisy:

정민:

저도 정민 씨처럼 회사에 다니고 싶어요.

[Jeo-do jeong-min sshi-cheo-reom hwe-sa-e da-ni-go shi-peo-yo] I too want to work at a company like you.

좋은 생각이에요. 취업 준비를 잘하고 있어요?

[Jo-eun saen-ga-gi-eyo. Chwi-eop jun-bi-reul jar-hago is-seo-yo?]

Jeongmin: Good thought. Are you preparing well for the job?

데지:

Daisy:

정민:

네. 스펙을 쌓기 위해서 인턴십 등을 찾고 있어요.

[Ne. Seu-pe-geul ssa-khi wi-hae-seo in-teon-ship deun-geul chak-ko is-seo-yo.]

Yeah. I’m looking for an internship and all to build up my resume.

그래요? 그럼 GIC에서 하는 국제인턴프로그램(GIIP) 지원해도

좋겠네요. 입사하기 전에 회사 생활도 경험하고 한국어 연습도 할 수 있어서요.

[Geu-raeyo? Geu-reom GIC-e-seo ha-neun guk-je-in-teon-peu-ro-geu-

raem ji-weon-hae-do jo-ken-neyo. Ipsa-hagi jeo-ne hwe-sa saeng-hwal-

do gyeong-heom-hago hangu-geo yeon-seup-to hal su is-seo-seo-yo.]

Jeongmin: Really? Then it’ll be good if you apply to GIIP. You can experience

office culture before working. Also, it’ll help you practice your

Korean.

데지:

Daisy:

좋네요. 소개해 주셔서 정말 고마워요. 이번에 꼭 지원할게요.

[Jon-neyo. So-gae-hae ju-shyeo-seo jeong-mal goma-weoyo. Ibeo ne kko-k ji-weon-hal-keyo.]

Nice. Thank you so much for introducing it. I will apply this time for sure.

March 2020

스펙을 쌓다 build up one’s resume 신입사원 new employee 동료 colleague 업무 business, work, task 부서 department 담당자 the person in charge 직위 position 월급 salary

졸업하고 뭐 하고 싶어요??

[Jo-reop-hago m-wo ha-go shi-peo-yo?]

Jeongmin: What do you want to do after graduation?

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

졸업 준비 쌓다 입사하다 회사 생활 지원하다 경험하다 연습하다 소개하다

정민:

42 Language Teaching

Team-Teaching with Native Speakers

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

EDUCATION

Written by Dr. David E. Shaffer

Team-teaching has become a common practice at public schools in Korea where native Englishspeaking teachers are assigned. The concept was introduced on a large scale in Korea by the U.S. Peace Corps volunteers and practiced in the late 1960s and the 1970s. It was revived by the Korean government with the launching of their English Program in Korea (EPIK) in the late 1990s. Because it involves the collaboration and coordination of two teachers, it involves an extra measure of effort.

The Gwangju News was fortunate to be able to set up an interview with a veteran team-teacher, Yun Seongsuk, who is also a lifetime member of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of Korea TESOL. — Ed. Gwangju News (GN): Thank you for agreeing to do this interview for the Gwangju News on teaching English with native English speakers. To start off, could you give us some general information about who Yun Seongsuk is?

Yun Seongsuk: I’m a teacher who enjoys learning and teaching English. I am a graduate of Gwangju National University of Education and majored in elementary education. I was a homeroom teacher for about seven years, and I have been an English subject teacher for about eight years now. I was also the team leader managing the Ojeong English Center for two years. It is one of only four government-funded English Centers in Gwangju.

Then, I took a two-year break from teaching to get my master’s in a government program for elementary school teachers. I majored in elementary English education at Korea National University of Education in Cheongju. Now I am an English subject teacher at Ojeong Elementary School and also the head teacher in charge of curriculum development and related activities such as open classes.

Early in my career, I was part of a six-month intensive teacher-training program at Northwest College in Powell, Wyoming. It was sponsored by the Gwangju Office of Education. I really enjoyed experiencing life in a different culture as well as interacting with U.S. students and observing their classes.

GN: Why did you decide to become an elementary school teacher?

Yun Seongsuk: Well actually, I had many dreams of what

I wanted to be – writer, TV producer, singer-songwriter, pharmacist, and teacher. Though one of my dreams was to be a teacher, I was not sure if my personality was suited for teaching. Then, in the third year of high school, one of my favorite teachers who I look up to took me under his wing and recommended elementary-school teaching, saying that it was well suited for my character. His words influenced me to decide to become an elementary school teacher.

GN: When you were a university student, did you expect that you would one day be an English teacher?

Yun Seongsuk: No, not at all. I wasn’t even very good at English, so that was the last thing that I was thinking of doing. But since English became an elementary school subject, I had no choice but to also teach English. And it turned out that I liked to teach the subject and became increasingly interested in it, and I still am.

GN: You’ve been working with and co-teaching with native English-speaking teachers (NESTs) for a number of years. What is your general impression of the experience? Are NESTs easy to get along with? Easy to work with. Dedicated to teaching? Or are they all very different?

Yun Seongsuk: It was really great to teach English with NESTs. By the way, let me use the term “team-teaching” instead of “co-teaching.” I prefer “team-teaching” because it better conveys the spirit of working together, which is important to achieve the day’s goal. Anyhow, I actually think “Two heads are better than one!” so having a native-speaking English teacher to lesson-plan and

43

Yun Seongsuk teaching an English class to elementary school students.

teach with was so effective in delivering a more fruitful and interesting class. I was so fortunate to have great native English teachers to work with. My team-teachers have always been easily approachable and easy to talk with. They were willing to try to improve our classes by brainstorming many ideas in terms of planning our classes.

GN: Do you think that Korean teacher and NEST team-teaching has great benefits over a single teacher teaching a class – either Korean or NEST? If so, in what ways?

Yun Seongsuk: From my eight years of team-teaching experience… Yes! Team-teaching had lots of benefits for students and my English classes, as long as the two teachers discuss the upcoming class enough and go to class with a well-planned lesson ready to teach.

March 2020

It’s very important to plan one or two weeks in advance and have clear objectives and a smooth teaching flow.

Ideally, everything should be pre-planned. The two teachers need to work together as a team in the class, so they have to determine their roles clearly: Who will take the lead in this activity; who will take the supportive role The two team-teachers should have enough time before in another one; in which activities will they have equally class to consider and discuss the lesson being planned. supportive roles?

This will positively affect lesson flow. But if one of the teachers does not set aside enough lesson planning GN: What, if any, are the biggest difficulties that you time, due to teaching schedule or paperwork, this affects or you Korean colleagues have encountered in teaching teachers’ ability to adjust effectively to the situation at with NESTs? hand when in the classroom.

Yun Seongsuk: Sometimes, classroom management can be problematic. At times, Korean students treat native Contributing to a lack of time is the fact that NESTs are teachers as a friend. That’s not a bad thing, as long as they often scheduled to teach at two schools in the same day. don’t cross the line. So we should plan in advance with If the NEST does not feel satisfaction from their day-to- the NEST how to deal with students if they misbehave.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

GN: What are some of the biggest difficulties that NESTs have in adjusting to the Korean elementary school teaching environment?

Yun Seongsuk: One problem, for beginner teachers especially – whether Korean or NEST – is the risk of miscommunication. From my experience, it was not easy to express oneself fully in English as a non-native speaker.

New NESTs generally have low or no skills in Korean, so communication needs to take place in English. I think more understanding is needed by everyone involved.

day classes, this will affect how well they adjust to their Korean schools and even to Korea.

44 This will help improve not only the team-teachers’ management skills but their overall team-teaching effectiveness.

EDUCATION

GN: You are a member of KOTESOL. Has being a member of the organization helped you in any way in becoming a better teacher, or in becoming a better team-teacher with NESTs? Yun Seongsuk: Yes. Meeting passionate educators, as many KOTESOL members are, gives me greater motivation, and KOTESOL members share many good ideas about teaching English through monthly meetings and in other ways. It is always good to be updated on new teaching techniques and new areas of pedagogical interest to gain better insight and better skills.

GN: You have recently completed the master’s program in elementary education at the Korea National University of Education (KNUE). How greatly has that program contributed to making you a better teacher?

Yun Seongsuk: Well, it was great in that it gave me more opportunities to read up on recent theory and trends, and to interact with many other English teachers from across the nation. It was a great opportunity to gain deeper knowledge about linguistics and English pedagogy. The part that I liked the most was being able to focus only on study as a student for two years.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

GN: What’s next for you in the upcoming year or years?

Yun Seongsuk: Well, I’d like to try being a homeroom teacher next year. Because it’s been a long time since I’ve been a homeroom teacher. I love to try something new, and I don’t want to stay in a comfort zone for too long. So I’d like to try being a homeroom teacher again to brush up on my teaching skills for subjects other than English.

GN: What is the ideal type of NEST that you would like to do team-teaching with?

Yun Seongsuk: I’d like to have a teacher who thinks out of the box and is willing to share lesson-planning ideas to enhance the class, as well as enjoys reflecting on our classes. Plus, it would be even greater if he or she enjoys Korean culture and living in Korea. I want my teamteacher to be a happy individual in Korea as well as a happy teacher in the classroom.

GN: In summary, I think that from this interview we can say that team-teaching has definite advantages but that it requires sufficient collaboration in class preparation, and understanding. Thank you, Yun Seonsaeng-nim, for your insights into teaching and team-teaching English from a Korean English teacher’s point of view. I wish you the best in the coming school year.

Yun Seongsuk

If you are an English teacher in Korea - or a teacher of any language, for that matter - and are interested in improving your teaching knowledge and skills, KOTESOL just might be exactly what you are looking for! KOTESOL is on the web at koreatesol.org.

GWANGJU-JEONNAM KOTESOL ANNUAL CONFERENCE Date: March 14 (2nd Saturday) Place: Gwangju National University of Education (GNUE) • Numerous Concurrent Sessions throughout the day • Morning Reflective Practice Session • Invited Plenary Speaker • Video appearances by Scott Thornbury and Thomas Farrell For full event details: Website: http://koreatesol.org/gwangju Facebook: Gwangju-Jeonnam KOTESOL

The Author David Shaffer has been a resident of Gwangju and taught at Chosun University for many years. He has been associated with KOTESOL since its beginnings and is a past president of the organization. At present, as vicepresident of the Gwangju-Jeonnam Chapter of KOTESOL, he invites you to attend the chapter’s March Conference and to participate in the teacher development workshops at their monthly meetings. Dr. Shaffer is presently the chairman of the board at the Gwangju International Center and also editor-in-chief of the Gwangju News.

Opinion 45

A Tale of Two Systems Written by William Urbanski

Perhaps at some time in your life, you have looked up to the starry cosmos at night and wondered how people can simultaneously be so breathtakingly clever and preposterously daft. How is it that someone with a PhD in physics will forget his car keys? What about a champion chess player who walks smack into a telephone pole because she is not paying attention? At some time or other, we have all made silly mistakes that we are not proud of and leave us wondering what was going through our minds.

That little stressful feeling you get when you try to do a complex task like this is a sign that System Two is engaged. System Two handles all sorts of stuff, like doing math, but also takes over when it is necessary to exercise self-restraint or during strenuous physical activity. Where System One can be thought of as an impulsive child (or a dirty, lazy hippy), System Two is like a slow, deliberate Terminator (the T-800, not that silly Rev-9 model from Dark Fate).

Using System Two is cognitively expensive and often physically draining, so, not surprisingly, humans actually hate using it and therefore avoid using it whenever possible. As a consequence, often when encountering a problem or situation where System Two should be engaged, people resist activating it and instead rely on System One, which for the above mentioned reasons is ill-equipped for many problems and can lead us to making errors.

So what does that mean for us? The knowledge of dual thought systems allows us to gain greater insight into why certain decisions are made and why people behave in certain ways. Here are some examples.

That being said, using System One for all daily tasks though is extremely problematic because, when System One encounters a problem it has never faced, it often

When I first heard that the big-box stores were going to stop providing tape, ribbons, and boxes to customers, I was furious. Although this was done ostensibly to “help the environment,” I could not help but feel this was just a big cost-cutting measure by the greedy CEOs. I mean,

March 2020

Big-Box Store’s Decision to Stop Providing Tape and Ribbon to Assemble Boxes

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

His conclusion, which is more or less accepted as fact in the academic community, is that the human mind switches between two modes of thinking, aptly named System One and System Two. System One (sometimes referred to as the “intuitive” or “automatic” system) handles everyday, ho-hum responses to various phenomena.

Actions carried out by this system are: walking, chatting, putting on a sweater, changing channels on your TV, and removing your hand quickly from a hot stove. The automatic system is extremely useful because it does not tie up our cognitive resources dealing with trivial things, and once it learns basic tasks well enough, it performs them quickly.

System Two is the rational, reflective system responsible for critical and complex thought processes. To see the difference between the two systems, try this simple experiment: Recite the alphabet from A to Z. Easy, right?

Reciting this sequence of letters is a task handled by System One. Now, as quickly as you can, try saying the alphabet backwards from Z to A. Except for the select handful of people in the world who have memorized the alphabet backwards, this sequence should be somewhat difficult because the automatic system simply cannot handle it.

OPINION

Fortunately, the field of psychology has discovered a conceptual framework that can act as an analytical tool to decipher otherwise inexplicable behavior, situations, and phenomena.The idea that the human mind contains two different and sometimes competing cognitive systems is an idea championed by Nobel Prize-winning psychologist Daniel Kahneman. In his book Thinking Fast and Slow, Kahneman details the ingenious reasoning and methods he used to essentially prove his theories.

relies on heuristics (rules of thumb) which can be ineffective or provide sub-optimal results. Many tasks require a different mode of thinking: System Two.

46 how much does it cost the stores to provide tape and ribbon? Well, it turns out, probably a lot.

In his book Predictably Irrational, devised a series of clever experiments that irrefutably proved one simple fact: When something is free, people absolutely lose their collective minds. Getting something for free, in our minds, has no downside, no matter what the item is.

This leads to people taking too much tape and ribbon, increasing costs beyond a sustainable level for the stores.

Analysis

System One: Completely engaged. No impulse control.

System Two: Overridden by free stuff!

OPINION

Otherwise Brilliant Students Struggling to Speak a Foreign Language Fluently (and Falling Asleep in Class)

True fluency involves using System One. When first learning a language, it is necessary to analyze and remember each and every rule, which is unnatural.

Students also become completely fatigued and appear bored after about 20 minutes of studying.

unlike a quantum particle, a door in winter can only exist in one state at any given time, that is to say, it can only be open or closed. When trying to decide whether a door in winter should be open or closed, one should first determine if it is in fact wintertime or not. This problem in itself is nebulous and often has no binary solution, but there are some guidelines. If it is near zero degrees Celsius, if it is snowing, or if it is between the months of November and March, there is a good chance that it is, in fact, winter. If one can reasonably conclude that it is winter, the proper thing to do is to close the damn door.

Analysis

System One: Overwhelmed by stimuli or perhaps frozen due to the winter temperatures System Two: Instead of using System Two to contemplate the virtues of an open door in the middle of winter, System One should, within milliseconds, become engaged and immediately compel the observer to shut the door because heating oil costs money and the building owner is not paying to heat the whole neighbourhood.

Analysis

System One: Not available to complete complex tasks.

System Two: Working overtime, causing mental and physical fatigue.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

Delivery Drivers Who Drive Their Scooters at High Speeds in the Downtown Gwangju Area on Saturday Nights and Honk Overpowered Horns to Scare Pedestrians Out of the Way

There is not much to say about these lunatic renegades, except that the cognitive dissonance and breathtaking intellectual somersaults used to justify such reckless behavior warrant nothing but the harshest opprobrium and censure. Nobody needs their fried chicken that badly, you maniacs.

Analysis System One: Malfunctioning.

System Two: Not engaged / Not existent.

Leaving a Door Wide Open in the Middle of Winter Admittedly, an open door in the middle of winter is a dynamic and multi-faceted problem that can easily overburden even the most sophisticated thinker’s cognitive resources. Like a quantum particle, a door in the middle of winter can exist in multiple states (in this case, open or closed). However, the primary way to distinguish between a door in winter and a quantum particle is that,

Conclusions

These systems are not mutually exclusive and in fact work in tandem a lot of the time. What is important to keep in mind is that not only is System One an ineffective tool for many of the complex and novel situations we may encounter in life, but humans also have a natural tendency to resist the critical thought processes handled by System Two. System Two, much like a muscle, can be trained and improved but only through sustained, deliberate use. So get out there and flex your System Two! Graphics by William Urbanski

The Author

William Urbanski, managing editor of the Gwangju News, has an MA in international relations and cultural diplomacy. He is married to a wonderful Korean woman and has myriad interests, but his true passion is eating pizza.

47

CROSSWORD PUZZLE

Created by Jon Dunbar

DOWN

ACROSS

March 2020

40 First Alleyway vegetarian burger option 43 Benefactors 45 Taekwondo belt level 46 Gawk at 48 Penn and Teller’s craft 52 Pilgrimage to Mecca 55 Derriere 57 To and ___ 58 Tea 59 A life simulation video game 60 Ostrich cousin 61 Bird that goes with meadow or sky 62 Opposite of coldness 63 Where beer comes from

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

1 2020’s zodiac animal 4 Worn by Miss Universe or girl scouts 8 Steals 12 Changnyeong County wetland 13 Norway capital 14 Currency in 19 countries 15 Goes with Mos or Comedy Jam 16 ___ and Practice 17 Donkey cry 18 Emit 20 Ballerina’s skirt 22 Last year’s zodiac animal 24 Gwangju mayor’s award win 28 Monkey Pee ___ 32 Reduce, ___ recycle and recover 33 “___ vraie jeune fille” 34 Trail transport 36 USA’s weirdest state 37 Photoshop maker

1 Impolite 2 Peak or zenith 3 Doenjang-guk ingredient 4 “Very well then” 5 Japanese Deputy Prime Minister Taro 6 Put coins in here 7 Nonsense 8 Condemn 9 “Be ___ guest” 10 Underwire-containing clothing item 11 Type of bean used in Korean cooking 19 Rapper ___ Live 21 Anonymous web browser 23 Jewel 25 Hand or ear warmer 26 Land surrounded by water 27 Brennan or Stephenson 28 Square park on campus 29 CTRL+Z 30 “___ Flux” 31 Font file 35 Michael Jackson song 38 Gwangju concert hall 39 Measure of work 41 Least cool 42 Gasteyer or Santa 44 Cut 47 One of the Great Lakes 49 Filipino teachers’ group 51 “___ la Douce” 51 What happened on 12/12, 1979 52 Dangerous acid 53 “Take on Me” band 54 Jam container 56 USFK cost-sharing deal

ARTS & CULTURE

Look for the answers to this crossword puzzle to appear in April in Gwangju News Online (www.gwangjunewsgic.com)

Reinactment of Japanese soldiers during March 1st protests.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

ARTS & CULTURE

48 Photo Essay

Reinactment of protests by students from Jennie Speer Memorial School for Girls.

49

March 1st Movement

T

Written and photographed by Yunkyoung (Hillel) Kim

hese pictures were taken during last year’s 100th anniversary commemoration of the March 1st Movement here in Gwangju. I have never seen such a large commemoration as this before. I still cannot find the right words to describe the feelings I got from this day. I thought I was there at the very scene of the actual movement in 1919.

I could not believe the story of Yoon Hyungsook when I first heard it, but it is in fact a part of our history. As a person who is living in Gwangju, I wanted to share this with all of you.

Yunkyoung (Hillel) Kim is a priest in the Anglican Church and also a portrait photographer. More of his pictures can be found at www. instagram.com/hillelkim.

March 2020

The Author

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

And a few weeks ago, I found out what these female students’ acts stood for. The women pictured were taking the role of students from the Jennie Speer Memorial School for Girls (now Gwangju Speer Girls’ High School), who participated in the movement 100 years ago. One of them who led not only the students, but also the rest of the participants, was a student named Yoon Hyungsook.

As in the picture, she stood front and center waving flags. A Japanese soldier chopped off her right arm with his sword in order to frighten the protesters and disperse the crowds. She did not retreat but took the flag from her severed hand and waved it with her left hand.

50 Book Review

LITTLE WOMEN

ARTS & CULTURE

Reviewed by Kristy Dolson

W

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

ith the new movie adaptation due to release in South Korea this month, it is the perfect time to revisit the classic children’s novel Little Women by Louisa May Alcott.

I came across this hefty book by way of a feminist mustreads list on the internet but paused at the prospect of ploughing through 777 pages of Alcott’s mid-1800s religious moralizing on the merits of genteel poverty. But in the summer of 2017, I was not particularly busy, so I decided to dive in anyway.

Published by Alcott in two parts within a newspaper beginning in 1868 and ending in 1869, the novel is likewise divided into two parts. The narrative reflects the moral conviction of Civil War-era Americans as well as the expectations and opportunities open to women at that time. It was a fascinating glimpse into the lives of an upper-middle class family with four daughters.

The story follows the March daughters – the “little women” of the title – Meg, Jo, Beth, and Amy. At the beginning of the book, the March family descends into poverty as their father acquiesces to his draft notice, leaving home to put down Confederate rebels. Despite the abrupt loss of their loving patriarch, the four girls and their mother admirably continue to love and support each other while

awaiting his return. The young girls must navigate new circumstances while maintaining a nobility of spirit as they grow into adulthood.

Although large tracts of the novel diverge into religious moralizing, which can grate on the nerves of today’s reader, such passages arguably contributed to Alcott’s publication success during her lifetime. If one can overcome these tedious sections, one finds many delights hidden within this tome that still prove relevant today.

While this narrative for girls provides four distinct heroines, I gravitated toward Josephine “Jo” March. Like so many others who have read this book, I saw myself in the feisty, never satisfied Josephine and absolutely adored her for sticking to her principles in the face of trying circumstances. I especially loved Jo’s publishing experiences and her desire for independence in a time and place that conspired to limit noble women’s aspirations to marriage and motherhood. It is also fascinating to note that the familial expectations for women in the U.S.A. have changed little in the last 150 years.

I suppose it is for the best that I waited so long before tackling this sprawling narrative because as a grown woman I can fully appreciate the story, the characters, and the moral conviction of the plot while heartily enjoying

Gwangju Writes 51 my reading experience. Having never read the source material, I have likewise never viewed any movie or TV adaptation of Little Women.

But I am now quite prepared and excited to see Greta Gerwig’s latest offering. The beauty of artistic license is taking a beloved narrative, shaking it down to its bones, and rebuilding it to speak more clearly to present or future generations. Hopefully this adaptation can reinforce and inspire the latent greatness in today’s “little women.”

Travelogues Written by Kevin D’Abramo

Finally, I’ve reached New York where swarms are thicker than Paris and while every door exudes jazz the Manhattan stride invades my marrow waking a moment of hope, while caffeine-high in a café as your eyes gleam like waves splashing Vancouver.

The Author

Hailing from Montreal, Canada, Kevin D’Abramo studied English literature and creative writing in university. He came to South Korea to teach English after completing a PhD at the University of Montreal, which focused on postmodern treatments of proletarian fiction. Besides creative writing, he enjoys playing bass guitar and traveling.

March 2020

Kristy Dolson lived in South Korea for five years before taking a year off to travel, read, and spend time with her family in Canada and Australia.

She holds a Bachelor of Education and now lives in Yeosu, where she splits her time between teaching at the new Jeollanamdo International Education Institute and reading as much as she can. (Photo by Cheyenne Taylor).

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

The Reviewer

In Paris I tramp past palaces seeking jazz winter here’s a sprinkler, and like the grey moods of Vancouver but this drizzle won’t soak my marrow and I won’t bellow like the old urchins of New York perhaps I’ll bloom, like Hemingway did drinking Pernod, inscribing my blood in the ether of cafes.

ARTS & CULTURE

Over mountains, through mist, then wing down in Vancouver where nude bodies gleam and don’t dream of the rats of New York here they hear birds chirp in their cafes which are appointed with big cowboy bars, absolument pas Paris.

And oh how the sun and glistening waves sink into my marrow while on Sundays I can relax and sip jazz.

52 Gwangju Writes

Our Hashima

ARTS & CULTURE

Written and photographed by Kevin D’Abramo

I’m a little worried though, says my beloved she crosses her legs and furrows her brow.

They might not mention the Korean conscripts she says, nor the Chinese prisoners of war.

Momentary silence, but she knows the photos have enthralled me.

My curiosity now protean – typical expat, I’m drawn to Hashima the sublime historical freak show proving just too enticing.

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

We flip up our hoods, hold hands she forces a smile into the wretched wind hundred or so passengers don plastic ponchos the captain thrusts us into the roiling sea.

Then through the window Hashima appears framed by grey clouds and frothing waves blackish and scarred it sits high on a hill, like a castle though only abandoned some forty years ago.

Our boat approaches the chipped and splotchy sea wall the motor revs and the water churns, like a school of piranha attacking.

White knuckles clutch the gangplank’s swaying chain railing.

Earphones sputter the English translation as the tour guide shouts above the ear-strafing wind behind her is a former school. Next to the school an apartment block looms ten stories high, the windows devoid of glass, like gaunt eyes.

Harried and battered by wind the tour guide might be skipping information allowing history to leak between the cracks my beloved’s face frowns.

A belly of blackish cloud hangs low a gust of wind blows the guide’s cap clean off, it flies like a baby ghost and whips back into the roped-off ruins.

Near the end of the talk she mentions the Koreans and Chinese they worked and lived here too, she states and suffered hardships.

An afterthought perhaps, but something.

Ponchos flutter, the wind now stronger.

Rain pelts my back as the group heads back to the boat.

I turn back to view the guide’s helper hop the rope fence, dash after the cap and scuttle beyond a wall of ruins as the wind wails.

53

Gwangju Happenings March 2020 Compiled by Melline Galani

ACC BACKSTAGE TOUR

ACC 백스테이지 투어

t January 8 – March 27(Wednesdays &

Fridays at 4:00 p.m.

P Munhwa-jeondang-ro, Dong-gu,

SOUTH JEOLLA HAPPENINGS

Gwangju

GURYE ASIATIC CORNELIAN CHERRY FESTIVAL

monthly/list

CULTURE ADVENTURE 어린이체험관 t January 1, 2019 – December 31, 2020

10 a.m. – 6 p.m. (Wed. & Sat. to 7 p.m.)

P 38 Munhwa-jeondang-ro, Dong-gu,

Gwangju (ACC Children B1)

￦ Ages 4–13: KRW 5,000 / Ages 14 and older:

KRW 3,000

À 1899-5566 ` https://new.acc.go.kr/en/exhibition.

do? PID=0202&action=Read&bnkey= EM_0000003831

MARCH’S GOT JANG HANDMADE FAIR

3월 곳장 라이프 페어

(Kim Daejung Convention Center, Exhibition Hall 3) ￦ Free ` @gotgan_jangteo

제22회 광양매화축제 2020 t March 6–15 P 55 Jimak 1-gil, Daap-myeon, Gwangyang, South Jeolla (Samjin River Maehwa Village)

전라남도 광양시 다압면 지막1길 55, 섬진강 매화마을 일원 ￦ Free À 061-797-261 ` http://www.gwangyang.go.kr/tour_culture/ index.gwangyang?menuCd=DOM_00000040 3001001001&&cpath=%2Ftour_culture

HAENAM PLUM BLOSSOM FESTIVAL

제8회 땅끝 매화축제 t March 7–15 P 56-10 Yejeong-ri, Sani-myeon, Haenam, South Jeolla (Bohae Plum Farm) 전라남도 해남,산이면 예정리 56-10 (보해매실농원) ￦ Free À 061-530-5917 ` http://www.haenam.go.kr

March 2020

t March 13–14 (10 a.m. – 6 p.m.)

P 30 Sangmunuri-ro, Seo-gu, Gwangju

GWANGYANG PLUM BLOSSOM FESTIVAL (MAEHWA FESTIVAL)

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

KBC MOM & BABY FAIR 제29회 KBC 맘앤베이비페어 t March 12–15 (10 a.m. – 6 p.m.)

P 30 Sangmunuri-ro, Seo-gu, Gwangju (Kim Daejung Convention Center, Exhibition Hall 2) ￦ Free À 062-650-3374 ` www.kbcbaby.co.kr

구례산수유꽃축제 2020 t March 14–22 P 45 Sanggwan 1-gil, Sandong-myeon, Gurye-gun, South Jeolla 전라남도 구례군 산동면 상관1길 45 ￦ Free À 061- 780-2726 ~7 ` http://www.gurye.go.kr/sanflower

MONTHLY NEWS

￦ Free À 1899-5566 ` https://www.acc.go.kr/en/calendar/

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Gwangju Theater Movie Schedule P 62 Chungjang-ro 5-ga, Dong-gu, Gwangju (Two blocks behind NC Wave) ￦ 8,000 won À 062-224-5858 ` http://cafe.naver.com/cinemagwangju (Korean)

* Synopses excerpted from Wikipedia, IMDb, and Hancinema. All English language films are presented with Korean subtitles; nonEnglish international films are presented with Korean subtitles only.

her friends while finding it hard to communicate with her family in sign language Why was I the only person born different from my family? The more she thinks about it, the more she feels alienated.

Director: Kim Jinyu Starring: Kim Ah-song, Lee Lyn-ha, Kwak Jin-seok

LUCKY CHAN-SIL 찬실이는 복도 많지

Drama, Fantasy, 96 min., Korean (No subtitles)

After a sudden death of the director she worked with for a long time, film producer Chan-sil is now unemployed.

Jobless and moneyless, she begins to work as a cleaning lady at an actress’ place. By chance, she meets a young man who teaches French to the actress. Chan-sil is strongly attracted to him while her old anxieties begin to emerge; her alreadygone-youth, screwed love, and broken career.

Director: Kim Cho-hee Starring: Kang Mal-geum , Youn Yuh-jung, Kim Youngmin

MOVE THE GRAVE 이장

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020

Drama, 94 min., Korean (No subtitles)

The story revolves around four sisters, who come together somewhat unwillingly, when their father’s brother calls them to the island where they were born in order to be present in the move of their father’s grave due to construction.

Their brother is supposed to be with them but is nowhere to be found, while Hye-yeong, the older sister and a single mother, is bringing Dong-min, her rather difficult son, along. Trouble brews almost immediately since there seems to be some tension between the sisters, particularly since Hye-yeon, the younger one, is late but demands to be picked up. However, as time passes, it is revealed that the issues the four women face do not have to do with each other but with their personal lives.

Director: Jeong Seung-o Starring: Jang Liu, Gong Min-jung, Kwak Min-gyoo

FUKUOKA 후쿠오카

Drama, 85 min., Korean (No subtitles)

A bookseller from Seoul travels with a young woman to Fukuoka in Japan to meet a former friend from university.

While their reunion is haunted by the conflicts of the past, his travel companion floats through the plot as if moving through a dream.

Director: Zhang Lu Starring: Kwon Hae-hyo, Yoon Je-moon, Yuki Yamamoto

BORI 나는보리

Family, Drama, 110 min., Korean (No subtitles)

Bori, an 11-year-old girl in a seaside village, is the only family member who can hear. As an elementary school student, Bori becomes more and more accustomed to talking with

GEORGIAN NIGHT 조지아의 밤 t March 6 (Friday), 7 p.m.

P De Mang Art Hall, 76 Sa-dong, Nam-gu, Gwangju

드맹아트홀, 광주 남구 사동 76

Sponsored by the Embassy of Georgia, this event presents Georgia’s culture through a special evening together with His Excellency Ambassador Otar Berdzenishvili. There will be a concert: Piano (Han Hee Yeon), Vocal Music (Yang Hyun Ae, Yang Kyung Hee), and Georgia Music (Ensemble Sterne) followed by Georgian wine tasting.

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Community Board

Have something you want to share with the community?

The Community Board provides a space for the community to announce activities and special events. Please contact gwangjunews@gic.or.kr for more information.

Gwangju Art Class

Hello, Gwangju Art Lovers! Do you have experience with arts and crafts and, are you itching to get involved in the community? We are looking for volunteer instructors who are interested in inspiring creativity around them. Visit www.facebook.com/groups/GwangjuArtClass/ for more info!

Daily Flea Market

Starting with March 2, and through April 29, at the firstfloor lounge of Gwangju International Center, a free Flea Market will be held daily. Anyone interested may come during operating hours (10 a.m. – 5 p.m.). All items on display are free and ready to go. The items will be sorted by volunteers beforehand, and a new batch of goods will be available daily until everything is gone. This event is replacing the cancelled Freecycle.

Gwangju Toastmasters Club

Gwangju Toastmasters Club (TM) is a relaxed, alternativestyle Toastmasters club that focuses on building communication and leadership skills. We provide people with opportunities to improve and practice their communication skills with prepared and impromptu speaking roles. Guests are welcome! We meet every Saturday from 4 to 5:30 p.m. at the GIC, 2nd Floor, Room 5. For more information, please visit our Facebook page: Gwangju Toastmasters or call 010-4614-7434.

KONA Storybook Center

KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a registered research center for English reading education and culture exchange.

It supports UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV). UKV is a registered organization that helps disadvantaged children to learn English independently through storybooks and story-maps. We guide the family and children to develop a love of reading and to explore foreign cultures. We also give guidance to volunteers in using storybooks. We are looking for long-term volunteers who desire to enrich their lives. We are asking volunteers to commit to helping at least once a month.

The days for KONA volunteering and the facilities are as follows: 1. KONA Storybook Center: Every Saturday, 10am–12pm 2. Children’s English Library: Every Saturday, 2–4pm 3. Gwangju Children’s Home: Every 4th Saturday 2–4pm www.gwangjunewsgic.com

For more information, please visit http://cafe.daum. net/konavolunteers or our Facebook pages for KONA Storybook Center and UNESCO KONA Volunteers.

Also, you can contact Kim Young-im at 062-434-9887 or email konacenter@gmail.com.

March 2020

www.gwangjunewsgic.com

March 2020 56

KONA English Center

KONA Storybook Center The KONA English Center (KEC) is an educational center for English reading and culture exchanges. The KEC will guide any family and their children to develop a love for reading and to explore foreign cultures.

KONA English Center 코나영어센터 KONA Storybook Center 영어독서교육연구소 UNESCO KONA Volunteers 유네스코 코나 자원봉사단

Programs: 1. 영어독서멘토링 (Mentoring in English Reading) 2. 영어로 배우는 과학 (Science in English) 3. 영어로 배우는 위인전 (Biography in English) 4. 코나비전특강 (KONA Vision Talk) 5. 외국인과 함께하는 문화교실 (UNESCO CCAP)

Tel: 062-434-9887 광주광역시 서구 상일로 37 37 Sangil-ro, Seo-gu, Gwangju

The KONA Storybook Center (KSC) is a non-profit organization that helps disadvantaged children to learn English independently through storybooks and storymaps with UNESCO KONA Volunteers (UKV).