NOV-DEC 2022 HAUTE LIVING SAN FRANCISCO

California Lifestyle Collection

Belvedere Grand View Estate

An approximately 11,200 square foot home with stunning views from the Bay Bridge to San Francisco to the Golden Gate Bridge and Sausalito, on appx. 1.2 acre lush garden double lot, this resort-like magnificent view estate is truly a one-of-a-kind property on the prestigious Belvedere Island. Incredible scale and unrivaled opportunity, in one of the most exceptional settings in Northern California, overlooking San Francisco Bay with breathtaking panoramic views. Sweeping entertainer’s decks and walls of glass that bring phenomenal views to the forefront of the living experience all in a beautiful and private resort-like setting.

Rebuilt in 2008, this gated contemporary style home offers 6 bedrooms, 10 bathrooms, a 60 foot indoor pool and entertainment area with multiple decks to enjoy world class views, with elevator and walkways connecting the levels and uniting the indoor with the fabulous gardens and sculptures.

Double doors open into a light-infused, two-story atrium entrance of the home’s incredible floor-to-ceiling window walls, flooding the space in natural light and immersing guests in breathtaking views. Office nook with a fireplace, majestic formal living room with soaring high ceilings, wall of glass windows, fireplace, wet

bar, wine cellar and deck with panoramic views. The dining room is next to the spacious open plan kitchen/family room/breakfast nook with replace and wallto-wall glass doors to view decks and a second family room/o ce with half bath around the corner. The kitchen with enormous center island is equipped with top of the line appliances t for a Michelin Star chef.

Master suite features sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco, a replace, a deck and an opulent bathroom of exquisite marble. Three other en-suite bedrooms complete this oor. A separate guest oor with two bedroom en-suite sharing a living room with wet bar and a private view deck. The estate’s resort-like luxurious amenities are as impressive as the residence, o ering the versatility to retreat in serenity or entertain elaborate and lavish events, featuring the indoor pool on the garden level with steam room, sauna, spa, an exercise nook, an entertaining kitchen, dining, bar, two bathrooms, wallto-wall glass doors opening onto a spacious deck with a hot tub and outdoor dining overlooking the exquisite gardens, various terraces with seating areas and endless views. Ample parking within the gate, plus three-car garage.

This is a perfect home to enjoy luxurious gardens, breathtaking views and resortlike amenities in the most exclusive Belvedere location.

For photos and details, please visit: BelvedereGrandEstate.com

Belvedere, California

This stunning world-class retreat is the epitome of the indoor-outdoor Napa Valley lifestyle. Designed by award-winning architect Howard Backen with sliding doors and screens that open completely to the surrounding gardens and views beyond, this residence and separate two-bedroom guest house are arranged as three separate zinc-roofed pavilions oating above semi-enclosed porches, a magni cent pool, and the surrounding landscaped gardens. Featuring extraordinary materials and workmanship, brilliant designs and soaring high ceilings, this private compound is designed to capture magni cent views of nature. Sited at the edge of a ravine, this home is oriented to frame and command views across neighboring vineyards and a watershed of the Napa River. Inside the main pavilion, the boundaries between living room, kitchen, dining room and the surrounding terraces are blurred. The combination of openness and grand scale permits the home to feel at once expansive and yet comfortable for intimate entertaining. Radiant heating under the polished concrete oors provides year-round comfort. The exible

architectural layers of sliding glass, shutters, and screens serve to e ortlessly control light, space, and temperature. Whether the walls of windows are open or closed, the calming architecture frames the natural and designed landscape. Spread across ±61 acres of grounds, amenities include in nity-edge pool, spacious lawn, bocce court, two hot-tubs, olive grove, organic garden, stocked lake, re pit, and outdoor kitchen with refrigerator, barbecue, and pizza oven. The basement level features a large wine cellar as well as a gym, powder room, and catering kitchen. A separate machine building houses a backup generator and well equipment including reverse-osmosis water lter. This sublime place represents an artistic departure from the conventional and is one that truly must be experienced—it is one that might inspire great thoughts and play gracious host to many extraordinary events to come!

This newly remodeled contemporary residence, located in the most prestigious location in the heart of Belvedere, is comprised of a 3,493± square foot home on 0.2± acre lot with stellar views of the Belvedere Lagoon, Tiburon hills along with Raccoon Strait, Angel Island, Belvedere Cove, and San Francisco Bay. This dramatic home, designed with contemporary beauty in every corner of the oor plan, features four bedrooms, three and one-half baths, library, media room, 3-car carport spaces with EV Charging, laundry room, and spa/hot tub on attached deck facing the views. This home o ers an open and desirable oor plan and was newly painted in 2021. The open kitchen features the nest materials with beautiful Neolith stone counter island, easy to clean porcelain product, as well as the replace, surrounding in the living room, and the counters of the bathrooms. The living room was designed with oor-toceiling glass wall-to-wall windows and door attached a new deck with special decking with panoramic views. The master suite decorated in soft creamy-white with wood oor is simply classic and evokes the feeling of peace and tranquility. The spacious master bathroom features a bathtub under the skylight and a separate shower

designed with glass walls with spectacular outlook of Tiburon hills, San Francisco Bay and beyond. The hot tub located on the second attached deck faces the view, a fantastic spot for enjoying a glass of wine when soaking in the hot tub. The house is surrounded by beautiful landscaping that was newly completed in 2022 and dotted with amazing sculptures available for purchase. The roofs over the main house and the media room deck were replaced with a special 99-year thermal roof to reduce heat, keeping the home in comfortable temperature always while enjoying the sunshine, natural lights and stellar views of Belvedere living. The sheltered east side Belvedere Island location o ers convenient access, only 5 minutes to downtown Tiburon, some of the nest restaurants and popular spots, shops, the best school district, ferry services to San Francisco and Angel Island, and the two world class yacht clubs—Corinthian Yacht Club and The San Francisco Yacht Club. This stunning beauty of Belvedere will be available for visit early September 2022.

O ered at $5,850,000

THANKS FOR READING OUR HOLIDAY ISSUE. 2022 IS TURNING OUT TO BE A challenging year. Although we have finally gotten over the COVID-19 pandemic, sharp hikes in interest rates designed to curb rising inflation sent stock and real estate markets into a sudden decline. As co-owner of Golden Gate Sotheby’s International Realty with over $13.2 billion in sales in 2020-2021, I experienced firsthand the sharp market downturn of the luxury home market. It was like someone turned the switch off. Nobody showed up to see and buy high-end homes anymore. Only six months ago, some of these same buyers were outbidding each other, purchasing homes for more than the asking prices!

Nothing much we do can control the world economy that impacts our lives. What we can do is come up with plans to renew and recharge and enjoy life as much as possible. Speaking of renewing, we profiled San Francisco’s leading plastic surgeon, Dr. Karen Horton, who treats congenital birth defects, injuries resulting from trauma, cancer defects, or desires for body modification. Her service could be a holiday gift of beauty if you wish to look 15 years younger!

In this issue, we feature joyful, uplifting events and positive, inspiring stories to entertain you. We report the opening nights of the San Francisco Opera and Symphony as well as the Fall Show of art, design, and antiques. Our back cover promotes the San Francisco Opera Guild’s An Evening on the Stage. We are proud to be the 2022 media sponsor of all these philanthropic events providing arts and music to our community and schools. For luxury car, yacht, and jet enthusiasts, this issue covers the prestigious Monaco Yacht Show, the Monterey Car Week at Pebble Beach, and a story on Aero. This semiprivate jet airline provides white glove service at a reasonable fare.

To help you celebrate the holidays with family and friends, we feature an extra serving of food and wine articles. Before you gather at the holiday dinner table, read these articles if you wish to celebrate by dining out. Michael Mina’s vibrant, fine cuisine at his new Greek restaurant, Estiatorio Ornos, at 252 California Street is where his legacy started. For more Mediterranean flavor, read the story on BROMA, a new Spanish-Portuguese restaurant in Mountain View by Michelin-starred chef Jarad Gallagher. Check out the latest restaurant, AFICI, by chef Eric Upper who began his culinary journey in 2006 at Lorenza di Medici cooking school in Tuscany, where I studied in 1995. Savor the season at Lucia, the restaurant at Bernardus Lodge & Spa in Carmel Valley. You certainly don’t want to miss our article on the dining secrets shared by leading San Francisco hotels’ culinary concierges.

While you plan your holiday wine trips, please read the article on the Swiss wine region—Lausanne and the Lavaux—and the report about two wine hotels in Italy and France. We also feature spas, beauty, and gift guides for your holiday celebrations and wellness ideas to stay healthy.

We wish you a joyful and healthy holiday season and New Year!

OLIVIA HSU DECKER

OWNER-PUBLISHER

HAUTE LIVING SAN FRANCISCO AND NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

DIRECT 415.435.1600 CELL 415.720.5915

O.DECKER@GGSIR.COM

WWW.ISSUU.COM/HAUTELIVINGSANFRANCISCO

PUBLISHER

Olivia Hsu Decker Olivia@HauteLivingSF.com

PUBLISHER

Olivia Hsu Decker Olivia@HauteLivingSF.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Teresa Rodriguez Teresa@HauteLivingSF.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Teresa Rodriguez Teresa@HauteLivingSF.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michelle Restante Michelle@HauteLivingSF.com

ART DIRECTOR

Krisha Chhaganlal Krisha@HauteLivingSF.com

DIGITAL EDITOR

Laurie Jo Miller Farr Laurie@HauteLivingSF.com

DIGITAL EDITOR

Laurie Jo Miller Farr Laurie@HauteLivingSF.com

COPY EDITOR Karen M. Smith henhousepublishing@gmail.com

COPY EDITOR Karen M. Smith henhousepublishing@gmail.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jennifer Boden, Noël Burgess, Laurie Jo Miller Farr, Becca Hensley, Steph Keay, Fran Endicott Miller, Robert B. Richards, and Sharon Seto.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jennifer Boden, Noël Burgess, Laurie Jo Miller Farr, Becca Hensley, Steph Keay, Fran Endicott Miller, Robert B. Richards, and Sharon Seto.

ABOUT TOWN AMBASSADOR

Aubrey Brewster

ABOUT TOWN AMBASSADOR Aubrey Brewster

HEALTH AND WELLNESS AMBASSADOR Lydia Graham

HEALTH AND WELLNESS AMBASSADOR Lydia Graham

LUXURY AUTO AMBASSADOR Tim Lappen TL@JMBM.com

LUXURY AUTO AMBASSADOR Tim Lappen TL@JMBM.com

SUBSCRIPTION AND DISTRIBUTION INQUIRIES

Olivia Hsu Decker Olivia@HauteLivingSF.com

SUBSCRIPTION AND DISTRIBUTION INQUIRIES

Olivia Hsu Decker Olivia@HauteLivingSF.com

AD SALES REPRESENTATIVE Cindy Pelland Cindy@HauteLivingSF.com

AD SALES REPRESENTATIVE Cindy Pelland Cindy@HauteLivingSF.com

Haute

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ON THE COVER:

DR. KAREN HORTON

PHOTO: Vincent gotti

SHOT ON LOCATION:

The Rotunda in Neiman Marcus

STYLING: Neiman Marcus

22

HAUTE KITCHEN

Chef Eric Upper of Alexander’s Steakhouse shares treasured family recipes to add to your holiday feast.

HAUTE SHOPPING

If you’re wondering what to give your loved ones for the holiday season, here’s a little help finding the perfect gift for each person on your holiday gift list.

44 HAUTE CONCIERGE

Five of San Francisco’s most accomplished concierges share their favorite places to dine.

48

50

IN MEMORIAL

Haute Living, San Francisco joins the world in remembering Queen Elizabeth II, known for “her curious and smiling eyes.”

TRAVEL

Becca Hensley divulges the secret wine of Lausanne, a vintage so wonderful the locals reserve for themselves.

HAUTE HOTEL

24

HAUTE WINE

Local wineries share their favorite holiday food and wine pairings.

HAUTE CUISINE

28

32

36

Chef Jarad Gallagher shares the bold, sophisticated flavors of Spain and Portugal at BROMA.

Chef Michael Mina’s restaurant Estiatorio Ornos serves innovative Greek cuisine sunny side up.

Chef Christian Ojeda takes the culinary helm at Bernardus Lodge & Spa’s destination restaurant and bar, Lucia.

38 COVER STORY

Want to look your best for the holiday season?

Dr. Karen Horton offers a full menu of beauty rejuvenating procedures just in time.

54

58

62

Visit a tropical destination of pampered luxury and guest-centered care that you’ll never want to leave: El Mangroove.

Try the less-traveled path for these two bespoke wine experiences in France and Italy.

HAUTE SCENE

Haute Living, San Francisco celebrated its Arts & Entertainment issue at the elegant St. Regis Bar.

64

65

Consummate party host Aubrey Brewster and his husband, Dr. Edward Winger, co-hosted a festive birthday party for San Francisco Mayor London Breed.

Showcasing Oscar de la Renta’s Pre-Spring 2023 collection, Saks Fith Avenue and the League to Save Lake Tahoe raise $1.3 million.

COVER STORY HAUTE HOTEL

66 The SF Fall Show celebrates its 40th anniversary with a stunning showcase of priceless artwork, antiques, and design.

67 The Mill Valley Film Festival celebrates its 45th anniversary with a starstudded lineup.

68 Neiman Marcus SF hosts an exclusive dinner for fashion designer Naeem Khan, showcasing his Spring 2023 collection.

69 Oliver Stone showcases blockbuster potential again with his new movie, Nuclear: Time to Look Again

HAUTE EVENT

70 The San Francisco Opera opens its 100th season with a benefit gala and a who’s who of San Francisco’s elite.

72 Olivia Hsu Decker recounts her immersion in luxury within the car and out, courtey of Bentley and its new Bentayga EWB.

74 The San Francisco Symphony launches its 111th season and Esa-Pekka Salonen’s third year as music director with its celebratory Opening Night Gala.

76 The 2022 Monaco Yacht Show impresses the world with the Ahpo, the biggest and newest masterpiece by Lürssen.

82 The most impressive vehicles past and present make an appearance here at the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance.

88 An elite gathering of poets, biographers, scientists, and authors immerse themselves in literature and discussion at the Sonoma Valley Authors Festival.

HAUTE MOVES

90 Speed, luxury, and refinement combine with the Maserati Ghibli Trofeo and the Lexus LC 500 Coupe.

94 Enjoy the luxury of private air travel at commercial airline prices with Aero, a “semi-private” service offering first class service. 96 HAUTE BEAUTY Geneo™ facials give your skin a party—ready perfection that lasts for days.

HAUTE WELLNESS

98 Discover the true meaning of contentment at Costa Rica’s Punta Islita and it’s Blue Zone culture. 102 Wine’s not just for drinking. Used in vinotherapy, it also makes your skin glow. 104 HAUTE RESIDENCE

Contemporary design. Check. Room for family and entertaining. Check. Ocean views. Check. What’s not to like? 108 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Sharon Seto goes behind the scenes to speak with Conor Ryan, the lead male actor in Moulin Rouge! The Musical

HAUTE AMBASSADOR

112 Breathing affects every aspect of our lives. Let’s focus on doing it well. 114 From thoughtful gifts and a to-die-for chocolate chip recipe, Aubrey and friends celebrate the holidays in style.

TERESA RODRIGUEZ EDITOR-IN-CHIEF HAUTE LIVING SAN FRANCISCO TERESA@HAUTELIVINGSF.COM WWW.HAUTELIVINGSF.COM

AS I LOOK OUTSIDE MY WINDOW ON THIS BEAUTIFUL AUTUMN DAY, I CAN’T BELIEVE this year is coming to a close. While the leaves change from hues of green to delicate shades of gold and brown, I am reminded of all that we have to be thankful for in 2022, especially our dedicated owner and publisher, Olivia Decker. Festival Napa Valley’s Olivia Decker Power of Music Series showcases globally recognized performing artists and emerging talent in live presentations throughout the Bay Area. She has entrusted me with the mighty task of creating content that resonates with you, our esteemed readers. Of course, none of this would be possible without our cadre of award-winning writers, authors, journalists, and experts who contribute to the success of Haute Living, San Francisco In this issue, you’ll find a bevy of treats, including the most spectacular gift guide for those who deserve an extra special present this holiday season. We rounded up the most coveted gifts of the year, and you can read all about them on page 22. In addition, we asked San Francisco’s top hotel concierges about their favorite places to eat and find out what they recommend on page 44.

Ready for a vacation? The wine in Switzerland is so good that the Swiss keep it all to themselves. We went to the Lavaux near Lausanne to tipple, hike, and play lakeside. Come join us on this extraordinary experience on page 50. Need more of a break? Take a trip to Costa Rica’s Blue Zone for a healing getaway where you can disconnect from your frantic life and reconnect to nature (page 98).

If you want to stay close to home and enjoy the bounty of fresh food in Northern California, our writers take us on a few delicious epicurean adventures that will make your mouth water. Read about the restaurants and their specialties in our Haute Cuisine section (page 32).

Looking for some fun food and wine pairings for your holidays? We got you covered on page 24 with some of the top offerings this season.

In this issue, we are excited to introduce our fresh layout and design, envisioned by our new creative director, Michelle Restante. She is a welcomed addition to our team of top-notch professionals, and we look forward to seeing the magazine flourish under her creative direction.

We heard you! You want access to more event coverage, travel ideas, and special features. Now we’re adding new articles online weekly. So, make sure to go online at HauteLivingSF.com to check out entertaining articles that are only on our website.

We’re wishing you a joyous and glorious holiday season!

PHOTO: ©VINCENT GOTTI, HAIR AND MAKE UP: OZZIE MENDOZA

Counterclockwise from top left: Lausanne and the Lavaux, Estiatorio Ornos’ tableside baklava sundae infused with 23-karat gold honey, 2020 DuMOL Finn Pinot Noir

BECCA HENSLEY

A bon vivant journalist who believes travel is the ultimate celebration of life awash with lessons waiting to be learned, widely-published, Texasbased Becca Hensley is travel editor for New Orleans Bride and editor-at-large for Insider’s Guide to Spas In a career spanning three decades, she has contributed to scores of magazines and newspapers, including Architectural Digest, Elite Traveler, Global Traveler, Conde Nast Traveler, and the Houston Chronicle. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @beccahensley.

SHARON SETO

A graduate of Golden Gate University and serial entrepreneur, Sharon loves the excitement and creativity of the business world and its people. Her addiction to business ventures began with the acquisition of the El Cid Building, site of the famous SF Jazz Mural. She has served as a board member, fundraiser, and event chair for nonprofit organizations, including the SF Symphony Board of Governors, City College of San Francisco Foundation Board, Red Cross Board, National Colorectal Cancer Alliance Board, SF Ballet, and Dress for Success.

JENNIFER BODEN

Jennifer is a freelance wine, food, and travel writer based in beautiful Sonoma County and has an extensive career in journalism. She contributes to KRON 4 News San Francisco, ABC 10News San Diego, and others. Prior to her writing career, she worked for several network affiliates as a news anchor and executive producer. She earned a degree in broadcast journalism from Arizona State University’s prestigious Walter Cronkite School of Journalism and Mass Communication.

NOËL BURGESS

Noël Burgess is an East Coaster living in Northern California wine country. His goal is to promote diversity and inclusion in wine, food, and travel with a focus on the places, the products, and most importantly, the people! Noël’s work can be found in VinePair , Wine Enthusiast , Travel & Leisure , Thrillist , San Francisco Magazine , and many other media platforms. Follow him on Instagram @mrnoelburgess and at noelburgess.com.

TIM LAPPEN

A lifelong petrol-holic, mechanic (cars, motorcycles, boats), and automotive journalist since penning a column for his high school newspaper, internationally recognized attorney Tim Lappen is a partner at a major Los Angeles-based law firm, where he chairs the firm’s Family Office Group and its Luxury Home Group and is, of course, a member of its Motor Vehicle Group. He can be reached at tlappen@gmail.com or visit LifeInTheFastLane.org

AUBREY BREWSTER

Aubrey, a bon vivant and manabout-town, is a product of his environment. His affinity for cooking, fashion, and entertaining was inherited from summer vacations shared in Charleston, West Virginia with his southern belle model-turned-hostess grandmother. It should come with no surprise that he followed in his grandmother’s footsteps, with an inherent talent for hosting legendary parties. He is often listed among San Francisco’s best dressed. Aubrey is a San Francisco native, traveler, and food and lifestyle blogger (aubreyabouttown.com). He resides in San Francisco with his husband, Edward. Aubrey can be found enjoying afternoons lunching with friends at Neiman Marcus and some of San Francisco’s favorite haunts when not hosting or attending events.

Lydia is an enthusiastic advocate and explorer of healthy living. She has launched and positioned health and wellness companies, products, technologies, and organizations receiving more than 100 awards nationally and internationally. Her favorite focus is on healthy living and healthy longevity. She sits on the board of the Buck Institute for Research and Aging whose mission is to eliminate the threat of age-related disease for today’s and future generations. Like the scientists at the Buck, Graham envisions it will be possible for people to enjoy life at 95 as much as at 25. She reminds us in her articles that what we do each day matters in our journey to achieve optimal wellbeing.

LAURIE JO MILLER FARR

Laurie is a US/UK dual citizen and dedicated urbanite who loves walkable cities. As a San Francisco-based travel writer, she enjoys views from its crazy, signature hills following half-alifetime promoting her two hometowns—a couple of oh-so-flat places: New York City and London. Laurie’s byline is found in USA Today , CBS, Where Traveler , Haute Living , Epicure , Fast Company , Napa Valley Life Magazine , Food & Travel Magazine , Eater , Google Touring Bird , and other major media titles. She was awarded Yahoo Contributor of the Year and is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers.

Fran Endicott Miller is a luxury-focused freelance feature writer for a variety of lifestyle publications and websites, editor-atlarge for JustLuxe.com, and California editor for luxury travel concierge service Essentialist. Prior, she held positions in the fields of politics, television, and professional sports. She is proud to have established the Golden State Warriors’ first community relations department and programs. When not traveling, she can be found walking her Northern California neighborhood with her beloved golden retrievers, Reggie and Nate.

Steph Keay is a Canadian

currently based in Silicon Valley. After completing her Bachelor of Commerce in her hometown of Calgary, Alberta, she spent a summer in Croatia assisting The Yacht Week with events management on the islands of Hvar and Vis. Formerly in PR/marketing, she has also placed stories for a variety of clients—including tech leaders, international artists, and acclaimed actors and musicians—with ABC, FOX, NBC, San Francisco Chronicle, The Mercury News, American Way, and others. In her spare time, she enjoys adventuring, photography, and travel—all of which she documents on on her website, StephKeay.com.

LYDIA GRAHAM

FRAN ENDICOTT MILLER

STEPH KEAY

freelance and technical writer

EVENTS CALENDAR

NOVEMBER

NOV. 2 - JAN. 16, 2023

Safeway Holiday Ice Rink in Union Square Drag Queens On Ice, Flashback Fridays, Polar Bear Skate, plus new events. Open 10 a.m. – 11 p.m. with the exception of closing at 9:30 p.m. on New Year’s Eve. 333 Post St. unionsquareicerink.com

NOV. 2 - DEC. 15

Tiffany Shlain | Human Nature: A Solo Exhibition

Bestselling author, founder of the Webby Awards, and honored by Newsweek as one of the “Women Shaping the 21st Century,” Tiffany Shlain presents her first one-woman show as artist-in-residence. SHACK 15, Ferry Building. tiffanyshlain.com/humannature.com

NOV. 7, 11, 14, 18, 23, 25 AND DEC. 2, 3, 5, 10, 25, 27, 28, 30

Golden State Warriors | Chase Center Cheer on the home team NBA champions as they host 14 home games, including one on Christmas Day at 5 p.m. versus the Memphis Grizzlies. chasecenter.com/events

NOV. 9 - DEC. 4

Ain’t Too Proud—The Life and Times of The Temptations | Golden Gate Theatre

It’s not “Just My Imagination” at all. The Temptations had an extraordinary journey from the streets of Detroit to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. Smash hit Broadway musical, 2019 Tony® Award-winner for best choreography. 1 Taylor St. broadwaysf.com

NOV. 11

Opera at the Ballpark | Oracle Park La Traviata hits it outta the park with a free, live simulcast of Verdi’s masterpiece. Music Director Eun Sun Kim leads San Francisco Orchestra and Chorus at 7:30 p.m. Doors open at 6 p.m. 24 Willie Mays Plaza. sfopera.com/seasons/opera-at-the-ballpark

Nov. 11 - 13

Global Cuisine Series | The Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay

Visiting Michelin-starred chefs collaborate with Navio’s executive chef, Roberto Riveros. Chef Noah Sandoval of Chicago’s 2-star Oriole presents four meals: a 7-course chef’s tasting dinner and a 2-hour brunch experience against a backdrop of sweeping, Pacific views. 1 Miramontes Point Rd., Half Moon Bay. exploretock.com/navio NOV. 11, 13, 16, 19, 22, 25, 27, 30 AND DEC. 3

La Traviata | San Francisco Opera Shawna Lucey’s sumptuous vision of Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata, the first new production of the famous opera by San Francisco Opera since 1987. The Traviata Encounter on Nov. 19 is an immersive evening of food, drinks, and mingling with artists in a transformed space following Act I. War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave. sfopera.com

Nat King Cole couldn’t have said it any better: “And so, we’re offering this simple phrase, to kids from 1 to 92 …” Cue in the holidays for all ages. Twirl on the ice or watch Elsa in Frozen . See graceful fairies dance in The Nutcracker or listen to traditional carols sung by some of the world’s best male voices. And that’s just for starters.

BY LAURIE JO MILLER FARR

NOV. 15, 18, 20, 26 AND DEC. 1

Orpheus and Eurydice | San Francisco Opera

Five performances of the iconic myth, a new production of Gluck’s energetic, lyrical opera, presented in its original 1762 Viennese edition for the first time in the company’s history. War Memorial Opera House, 301 Van Ness Ave. sfopera.com

NOV. 13 AND 27

San Francisco 49ers | Levi Stadium

Two home games this month. Kickoff on Nov. 13 is at 5:20 p.m. versus Los Angeles Chargers and on Nov. 27 at 1:25 p.m. versus New Orleans Saints. 49ers.com

NOV. 17

GLIDE Annual Holiday Jam: Powered By Hope |

The Masonic

An evening of community celebration, joyful music, delectable dining, and soul-stirring reflection and uplift featuring legendary Bay Area funk band, The Family Stone, plus GLIDE Ensemble and Change Band. 1111 California St. glide.org/events/glide-holiday-jam NOV. 17 - 19

MTT & Emanuel Ax | San Francisco Symphony

Michael Tilson Thomas conducts and Emanuel Ax plays the piano in an all-Brahms concert program. Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. sfsymphony.org

NOV. 18 - 20

Christmas with C.S. Lewis | A.C.T.’s

The Strand Theater

Be transported to a cozy fireside near Oxford, England on a Christmas Eve long ago for “a conversation” with the theologian, academician, and beloved British writer. 1127 Market St. broadwaysf.com

NOV. 18 - DEC. 30

Disney’s FROZEN | Orpheum Theatre

Simply magical, from the producer of The Lion King and Aladdin. An unforgettable theatrical experience filled with sensational special effects, stunning sets and costumes, and powerhouse performances. Ages 5 and up. 1192 Market St. broadwaysf.com

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): THE FAIRMONT HOTEL, DEEN VAN MEER, GOLDEN GATE THEATRE

Disney’s FROZEN

NOV. 18 - JAN. 1, 2023

Wuthering Heights | Berkeley Repertory Theatre

A National Theatre, Wise Children, Bristol Old Vic, and York Theatre Royal co-production. Roda Theatre, 2025 Addison St., Berkeley berkeleyrep.org/shows/wuthering-heights

NOV. 19

Calistoga Food and Wine Grand Tasting | Solage Resort & Spa

Annual wine and culinary extravaganza featuring 38 Calistoga wineries and gourmet food pairings from wine country’s top restaurants. aubergeresorts.com/solage/ experiences/calistoga-food-and-wine-weekend

NOV. 22 AND 25, 26

San Francisco Symphony | Films With Live Orchestra

The magic of movies and music presenting Disney’s Fantasia and Fantasia 2000 on the 22nd; Francis Ford Coppola’s masterpiece, The Godfather, on the 25th and 26th. Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. sfsymphony. org/Subscribe/Series/Film-Series

NOV. 23 - JAN. 2, 2023

Sugar Castle | The Westin St. Francis

Grand unveiling in Landmark Lobby with complimentary hot chocolate and small treats at 11 a.m. when the giant sugar castle—complete with its own train—is revealed. Also, Sweet Boutique, POP! Lounge for post-shopping bubbles, Breakfast With Santa, Dollie + Me Holiday Tea, and more. bit.ly/WSFHolidays

NOV. 25 - 27

Michael Feinstein | Feinstein’s at The Nikko

The ambassador of the Great American Songbook returns to celebrate the holidays with an evening of timeless music in this intimate performance space. 222 Mason St. feinsteinsf.com

NOV. 26

Gingerbread House | Fairmont Hotel Lobby

The famous 2-story Victorian house made of 8,000 edible bricks and hundreds of pounds of See’s Candies stands beside a 23-foot Christmas tree where Santa comes to call. Unveiling at 11 a.m. - 3 p.m. Champagne tea is served in Laurel Court, Thursdays to Sundays from Nov. 15 through Jan. 2. 950 Mason St. fairmont.com/san-francisco

NOV. 26 - 27, DEC. 3 - 4, 10 - 11, AND 17 - 23

Teddy Bear Tea for the Holidays | Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco

Calling all kids, ages 2-11. Tea (and hot chocolate) is served. Festive entertainment, storytelling, more by the elves at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. Bring a new, wrapped gift and take home a teddy bear. Benefiting MakeA-Wish® Greater Bay Area and UCSF Benioff Children’s Hospitals. 600 Stockton St. ritzcarlton. com/en/hotels/california/san-francisco/dining/events

NOV. 28

Vienna Boys Choir | Bing Concert Hall at Stanford University

Traditional holiday concert backed by a 500-year history, the beloved boys choir raises harmony to new levels. 327 Lasuen St. live.stanford.edu/calendar

NOV. 28

Nob Hill Tree Lighting Ceremony | Huntington Park

The 51st annual tree lighting with live music by the French American Jazz Quartet. Refreshments provided by InterContinental Mark Hopkins, Fairmont San Francisco, and Ritz-Carlton San Francisco. 5:30 p.m. GraceCathedral.org

NOV. 30 - DEC. 24

A Christmas Carol | American Conservatory Theatre

A celebrated production of the Charles Dickens classic features delightful music, gorgeous costumes, and spooky ghosts. The Bay Area holiday tradition returns to The Toni Rembe Theater (formerly Geary Theatre), 451 Geary St. act-sf.org/ whats-on/202223-season/christmas-carol

The Westin St. Francis Sugar Castle

Safeway Holiday Ice Rink in Union Square

Wuthering Heights

A.C.T.’s The Strand Theater

A Christmas Carol

DECEMBER

DEC. 1

Andrea Bocelli in Concert | Chase Center

Songs from the album Believe, a poignant, personal collection to celebrate the power of music and soothe the soul. Plus a selection of arias, crossover hits, famed love songs, and seasonal tunes from this internationally acclaimed voice. chasecenter.com/events/andrea-bocelli-20221201

DEC. 1 - 30

Sleeping Beauty | Presidio Theatre

Panto in the Presidio returns with an over-the-top musical re-imagining of the classic fairy tale. Set in the magical kingdom of Pantoland, it’s a mythical realm bearing a striking resemblance to contemporary San Francisco. 99 Moraga Ave. presidio theatre.org

DEC. 3 - FEB. 5, 2023

Calistoga Lighted Tractor Parade and Winter in the Wineries Passport

Holiday-themed machines transform pretty, historic downtown Calistoga for the 26th annual tractor parade on Lincoln Avenue. It’s also the start of the 12th annual winter passport program with 14 participating wineries, including Chateau Montelena and Raymond Vineyards. VisitCalistoga.com

DEC. 4, 11 AND 24

San Francisco 49ers | Levi Stadium

Three afternoon home games this month, including Christmas Eve. Kickoff on Dec. 4 is at 1:05 p.m. versus Miami Dolphins and on Dec. 11 at 1:25 p.m. versus Tampa Bay Buccaneers. Fans of the 49ers are hoping for a holiday win on Dec. 24 at 1:05 p.m. versus Washington Commanders. 49ers.com

DEC. 7 - 31

Beetlejuice | Golden Gate Theatre

The ghost-with-the-most comes to San Francisco. A hilarious musical based on Tim Burton’s beloved film, Variety says it’s “screamingly good fun!” Recommended for ages 10+. 1 Taylor St. broadwaysf.com

DEC. 8 - 27

Nutcracker | San Francisco Ballet

Set at a Christmas Eve party in 1915 San Francisco, the ballet tells the story of 12-year-old Clara. Given a magical nutcracker doll that comes to life in her dreams, adventures ensue. Brilliant choreography by Helgi Tomasson, breathtaking costumes, and a well-loved score by Peter Ilyich Tchaikovsky: this is a favorite for the ages. sfballet.org/productions/ nutcracker-dec-2022

DEC. 9 AND 10

Handel’s

Messiah | San Francisco Symphony

A holiday tradition since its successful 1742 premiere in Dublin, Ireland. Masaaki Suzuki leads the SF Symphony and Chorus in this perennial favorite. Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. sfsymphony.org/Buy-Tickets/2022-23/ Handels-Messiah

DEC. 9 AND 10

Peppa Pig Live! Peppa Pig’s Adventure Peppa and friends are excited about their outdoor holiday adventure, full of singing, dancing, games, and surprises. Optional photo experience. Curated for ages 2-6. At Oakland’s Paramount Theater on Dec. 9 and Curran Theater on Dec. 10. broadwaysf.com

DEC. 9 - 11

Michelle Obama Tour | The Masonic The Light We Carry, a new book by Michelle Obama. Live in conversation for three nights at 8 p.m.. 1111 California St. michelleobamabooks.com

DEC. 10, 11, 17, 18, AND 23

A Cathedral Christmas | Grace Cathedral

Since 1947, Grace Cathedral Choir of Men and Boys with full orchestra and organ, a holiday tradition of treasured favorites and carols. Magnificent music in a majestic setting. 1100 California St. GraceCathedral.org DEC. 13 - 19

Pink Martini | SFJAZZ

Cosmopolitan holiday music: This “little orchestra” performs a rollicking cross-genre mix of classical, jazz, and old-fashioned pop that’s infectiously joyous and dance-friendly. 201 Franklin St. sfjazz.org

DEC. 16 - 17 AND 21 - 22

San Francisco Symphony | Films With Live Orchestra

The magic of movies and music presenting How the Grinch Stole Christmas and Elf—In Concert on the 21st and 22nd. Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. sfsymphony.org/Subscribe/Series/Film-Series DEC. 17 AND 18

A Chanticleer Christmas | St. Ignatius Church

Founded in 1978, this exceptional ensemble of 12 men’s voices presents a cappella, offering joy through beautiful music across centuries. 650 Parker Ave. Additional performances in Oakland, Berkeley, Stanford University, Santa Clara, Petaluma, Sacramento, and Carmel. chanticleer.org/202223-bay-area-season

DEC. 24

San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus - Holiday Spectacular | Castro Theater

In its 45th season, a much-anticipated Christmas Eve tradition with the new artistic director, Jacob Stensberg. 429 Castro St. Additional performances on Dec. 2 and 3 at Sydney Goldstein Theater, Dec. 11 in Berkeley, and Dec. 17 in Rohnert Park. sfgmc.org/season-45

DEC. 31

New Year’s Eve with Seth MacFarlane | San Francisco Symphony Academy Award and Grammy-nominated singer, actor, and director, plus the San Francisco Symphony, bring classic, crooning vocals, and cool pizzazz to a big band-era performance of jazz standards and holiday hits. Davies Symphony Hall, 201 Van Ness Ave. sfsymphony.org/buytickets/2022-23/seth-macfarlane-new-years-eve

San Francisco Ballet’s Nutcracker

A Chanticleer Christmas

Chef Francisco Simón

Pink Martini

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): ERIK TOMASSON, DON DIXON, RITZ-CARLTON HALF MOON BAY, STEPHENKMACK

T R I T O N L U X U R Y V I L L A

s a n d C a i c o s r e a l e s t a t e , T r i t o n i s a b o u t t o u n d e r g o a m e t a m o r p h o s i s i n t o a n e v e n m a s t e r p i e c e . A l r e a d y t h e s i g n a t u r e e s t a t e o f w o r l d f a m o u s k i t i n g d e s t i n a t i o n L o n g l u x u r y v a c a t i o n r e n t a l i s u n d e r g o i n g r e n o v a t i o n a n d e x p a n s i o n f r o m t h e e x i s t i n g 7 f o u r g u e s t b u n g a l o w s a n d a s t a f f q u a r t e r s , w h i c h w i l l m a k e i t t h e o n l y 1 4 b e d r o o m d a r a r i t y i n t h e T u r k s a n d C a i c o s s h o r t t e r m r e n t a l l a n d s c a p e

A g l o b a l l y r e c o g n i z e d i c o n o f T u r k s a n d C a i c o s r e a l e s t a t e , T r i t o n i s a b o u t t o u n d e r g o a m e t a m o r p h o s i s i n t o a n e v e n m o r e a w e i n s p i r i n g a r c h i t e c t u r a l m a s t e r p i e c e . A l r e a d y t h e s i g n a t u r e e s t a t e o f w o r l d f a m o u s k i t i n g d e s t i n a t i o n L o n g B a y B e a c h , t h i s i n c o m e g e n e r a t i n g l u x u r y v a c a t i o n r e n t a l i s u n d e r g o i n g r e n o v a t i o n a n d e x p a n s i o n f r o m t h e e x i s t i n g 7 b e d 8 b a t h m a i n h o u s e t o i n c l u d e f o u r g u e s t b u n g a l o w s a n d a s t a f f q u a r t e r s , w h i c h w i l l m a k e i t t h e o n l y 1 4 b e d r o o m f u l l y s t a f f e d v i l l a o n t h e s t r e e t a n d a r a r i t y i n t h e T u r k s a n d C a i

A g l o b a l l y r e c o g n i z e d i c o n o f T u r k s a n d C a i c o s r e a l e s t a t e , T r i t o n i s a b o u t t o u n d e r g o a m e t a m o r p h o s i s i n t o a n e v e n m o r e a w e i n s p i r i n g a r c h i t e c t u r a l m a s t e r p i e c e . A l r e a d y t h e s i g n a t u r e e s t a t e o f w o r l d f a m o u s k i t i n g d e s t i n a t i o n L o n g B a y B e a c h , t h i s i n c o m e g e n e r a t i n g l u x u r y v a c a t i o n r e n t a l i s u n d e r g o i n g r e n o v a t i o n a n d e x p a n s i o n f r o m t h e e x i s t i n g 7 b e d 8 b a t h m a i n h o u s e t o i n c l u d e f o u r g u e s t b u n g a l o w s a n d a s t a f f q u a r t e r s , w h i c h w i l l m a k e i t t h e o n l y 1 4 b e d r o o m f u l l y s t a f f e d v i l l a o n t h e s t r e e t a n d a r a r i t y i n t h e T

m e t a m o r p h o s i s i n t o a n e v e n m o r e a w e i n s p i r i n g a r c h i t e c t u r a l m a s t e r p i e c e . A l r e a d y t h e s i g n a t u r e e s t a t e o f w o r l d f a m o u s k i t i n g d e s t i n a t i o n L o n g B a y B e a c h , t h i s i n c o m e g e n e r a t i n g l u x u r y v a c a t i o n r e n t a l i s u n d e r g o i n g r e n o v a t i o n a n d e x p a n s i o n f r o m t h e e x i s t i n g 7 b e d 8 b a t h m a i n h o u s e t o i n c l u d e f o u r g u e s t b u n g a l o w s a n d a s t a f f q u a r t e r s , w h i c h w i l l m a k e i t t h e o n l y 1 4 b e d r o o m f u l l y s t a f f e d v i l l a o n t h e s t r e e t a n d a r a r i t y i n t h e T u

A g l o b a l l y r e c o g n i z e d i c o n o f T u r k s a n d C a i c o s r e a l e s t a t e , T r i t o n i s a b o u t t o u n d e r g o a m e t a m o r p h o s i s i n t o a n e v e n m o r e a w e i n s p i r i n g a r c h i t e c t u r a l m a s t e r p i e c e A l r e a d y t h e s i g n a t u r e e s t a t e o f w o r l d f a m o u s k i t i n g d e s t i n a t i o n L o n g B a y B e a c h , t h i s i n c o m e g e n e r a t i n g l u x u r y v a c a t i o n r e n t a l i s u n d e r g o i n g r e n o v a t i o n a n d e x p a n s i o n f r o m t h e e x i s t i n g 7 b e d 8 b a t h m a i n h o u s e t o i n c l u d e f o u r g u e s t b u n g a l o w s a n d a s t a f f q u a r t e r s , w h i c h w i l l m a k e i t t h e o n l y 1 4 b e d r o o m f u l l y s t a f f e d v i l l a o n t h e s t r e e t a n d a r a r i t y i n t h e T u r k s a n d C a i c o s s h o r t t e r m r e n t a l l a

i s a b o u t t o u n d e r g o a m e t a m o r p h o s i s i n t o a n e v e n m o r e a w e i n s p i r i n g a r c h i t e c t u r a l m a s t e r p i e c e A l r e a d y t h e s i g n a t u r e e s t a t e o f w o r l d f a m o u s k i t i n g d e s t i n a t i o n L o n g B a y B e a c h , t h i s i n c o m e g e n e r a t i n g l u x u r y v a c a t i o n r e n t a l i s u n d e r g o i n g r e n o v a t i o n a n d e x p a n s i o n f r o m t h e e x i s t i n g 7 b e d 8 b a t h m a i n h o u s e t o i n c l u d e f o u r g u e s t b u n g a l o w s a a r t e r s , w h i c h w i l l m a k e i t t h e o n l y 1 4 b e d r o o m u l l y s t a f f e d v i l l a o n t h e s t r e e t a n d a r a r i t y i n t h e T u r k s a

O n e o f t h e t o p a g e n t s s e r v i n g t h e T u r k s a n d C a i c o s l u x u r y m a r k e t a n d r e p r e s e n t i n g L u x u r y p r o p e r t y a c r o s s t h e C a r i b b e a n , I a n b r i n g s m o r e t h a n 2 5 y e a r s o f e x p e r i e n c e i n t h e r e a l e s t a t e , c o n s t r u c t i o n , p r o p e r t y m a n a g e m e n t , a n d h o s p i t a l i t y i n d u s t r i e s t o h i s r o l e a s M a n a g i n g P a r t n e r o f T h e A g e n c y ’ s T u r k s a n d C a i c o s o f f i c e

O n e o f t h e t o p a g e n t s s e r v i n g t h e T u r k s a n d C a i c o s l u x u r y m a r k e t a n d r e p r e s e n t i n g L u x u r y p r o p e r t y a c r o s s t h e C a r i b b e a n , I a n b r i n g s m o r e t h a n 2 5 y e a r s o f e x p e r i e n c e i n t h e r e a l e s t a t e , c o n s t r u c t i o n , p r o p e r t y m a n a g e m e n t , a n d h o s p i t a l i t y i n d u s t r i e s t o h i s r o l e a s M a n a g i n g P a r t n e r o f T h e A g e n c y ’ s T u r k s a n d C a i c o s o f f i c e

O n e o f t h e t o p a g e n t s s e r v i n g t h e T u r k s a n d

a i c o s l u x u r y m a r k e t a n d r e p r e s e n t i n g L u x u r y p r o p e r t y a c r o s s t h e C a r i b b e a n , I a n b r i n g s m o r e t h a n 2 5 y e a r s o f e x p e r i e n c e i n t h e r e a l e s t a t e , c o n s t r u c t i o n , p r o p e r t y m a n a g e m e n t , a n d h o s p i t a l i t y i n d u s t r i e s t o h i

s r o l e a s M a n a g i n g P a r t n e r o f

From the Bronx to the Bay

Chef Eric Upper of AFICI

BY SHARON SETO

WINTER HOLLY DAYS ALWAYS HAD A VERY SPECIAL PLACE in my heart. In childhood, this was an extraordinary time because not only did Santa Claus magically came down the chimney to put presents under our Christmas tree, but more importantly, I knew that there would be tons of family and friends we’d get to see. It was common for people to fly from faraway places to our home, including my 100-year-old grandma who brought us live Maine lobsters annually to San Francisco. I would gleefully poke and play with them in the kitchen sink with chopsticks, and Mom would promptly cook the lobsters Chinese style in her big wok! Holidays allowed us to reconnect and bond with time-honored family traditions. They are special, because people celebrate these events by doing something different, more exceptional than the norm of a regular day. Holidays make treasured memories.

In Haute Kitchen, I’ve got the perfect chef, Eric Upper, who just launched a brand new, oh-so-upscale, exciting restaurant, AFICI, for dining out during those special occasions! This extremely talented chef also shared some amazing, special recipes to “up our holidays!” As a grandma myself, I hum with happiness each time I mark up my calendar with bright red circles, upcoming plans in

my brain—my mind’s eye reflecting on treasured memories that kept us together then flashing to future events that will gather our family. Winter holiday traditions are certainly special, as they unite family and friends for all time. Boy, I can’t wait to see my little “joy pot” granddaughter from Sacramento, Maddie, and her sister who is scheduled to make her first appearance into the world on December 1! Happy holidays to you all!

Chef Eric Upper brings culinary excellence and a decorated background to AFICI and Alexander’s Steakhouse Group. Over the past 15 years from New York to San Francisco, Chef Upper has established himself as a prominent fixture and rising star in the culinary space. His passion for food was first sparked in the heart of the Bronx where he prepared and enjoyed multi-course dinners with his extended Italian family over the years. He fondly reminisces about making pasta by hand at the kitchen table with his grandmother and always being greeted by an impressive spread of food when coming home for the holidays.

Chef Upper officially began his culinary journey in 2006 at Lorenzo de’ Medici institute in Florence, where he studied Tuscan cuisine and Italian wine. In 2009, he returned to New

York to complete his education at the French Culinary Institute and subsequently built the foundations of his professional career through experience at Morimoto, Michelin-starred Aureole, and the renowned Robuchon at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas. After three years of working alongside the late Joël Robuchon, Chef Upper returned to his New York roots to join the opening team of Italienne as chef de cuisine, where he further developed his passion and expertise in pasta making, full-animal butchery, and charcuterie techniques. Looking for his next opportunity, Chef Upper followed the advice of former colleague and mentor, chef Claude Le Tohic, and embarked on a crosscountry adventure to join Alexander’s Steakhouse in San Francisco as the executive chef in 2018.

At Alexander’s Steakhouse, Chef Upper is responsible for managing culinary teams and overseeing all operations in the kitchen, as well as menu and concept development. When given the chance to manage The Patio pop-up during the pandemic, Chef Upper was able to work with pasta again and experiment with Wagyu beef outside the steakhouse format. His newest venture, AFICI, features contemporary American cuisine in a fine dining, yet approachable, space. The restaurant highlights the Italian and French influences derived from Chef Upper’s education and showcases handmade pastas, whole-animal utilization, and charcuterie techniques perfected throughout his culinary journey. Upper says, “For me, dining out is a special experience that can’t be repeated at home. The service, the ambiance, and the food at our restaurants make it very memorable and make our guests want to return again and again.” I agree!

HL: When did you know you were going to be a chef and who inspired you?

EU: My family is my first inspiration. They came over from Italy and settled in New York in 1938. They initially tried to get into construction work, but couldn’t, so they ended up becoming professional chefs. Outside of that, my grandmothers, mother, and aunts all cooked. I was always surrounded by food, and time with family centered on food, whether we were prepping in the kitchen (I used to make pasta with them) or sitting down for a meal.

I had other career aspirations before deciding to become a chef. My love of food was obvious as a kid, and cooking was always something I loved—so much so that I was a chef for Halloween one year! I knew I did not want to work at a desk, and I was not interested in wearing a suit. I went to college to study psychology, but after 9/11, I decided to become a firefighter. I enrolled in the program and went through the training, but there was a hiring freeze and I could not get work. While I waited for hiring to begin, I was the general manager at an upscale wine shop in Manhattan. During the 2007/2008 crash, the owners decided to shut down, and I found myself again at a huge career crossroad. I was still hoping to be a firefighter, but needed to do something else. I went back to my love of cooking and enrolled in culinary school.

HL: How do you unwind after a long day in the kitchen?

EU: It really depends on the day, but I always walk my two Chihuahuas when I get home from work. Sometimes I go to the gym first, grab a protein shake, walk the dogs, and go to bed. Other days I head home, make a bowl of pasta, open up a bottle of wine, and just unwind.

QUAIL

QUAIL WITH CRANBERRY AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS

By Chef Eric Upper

INGREDIENTS

~ 2 Quail ~ 2 Lemon wedges ~ 2 sprigs thyme ~ 2 sprigs rosemary ~ 2 cloves garlic ~ Olive oil ~ Salt ~ Pepper METHOD

1. It is best to get your quail three days ahead of the use-by date. This way, you can dry out your quail, which will create a more tender and more flavorful product. It will also ensure that the skin on your quail crisps up.

2. Remove your quail from the refrigerator and allow it to come up to temperature. Preheat your oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Rub the quail with olive oil and season with salt.

3. Stuff the cavity with a lemon wedge, a smashed clove of garlic, one spring of thyme, one sprig of rosemary, and cracked black pepper.

4. Cook until the internal temperature is 140 degrees Fahrenheit (about 11 minutes). Rest your quail for 5 minutes and enjoy.

CRANBERRY INGREDIENTS

~ 12 ounces cranberry

~ 3 tablespoons white verjus

~ 1 tablespoon water

~ ½ cup sugar

BRUSSEL SPROUTS INGREDIENTS

~ 1 pound Brussels sprouts

~ ¼ pound bacon, slab

~ ½ cup chicken bouillon

~ ½ cup white wine

~ ¼ cup maple syrup

METHOD

1. Cut Brussels sprouts in halves.

2. Cut bacon into lardons.

3. For the bacon, use slab bacon that you can get at your butcher shop, but cut it into lardons. (This is a French cut that mimics the size of your pinky finger.)

4. Over low-medium heat, render the fat of the bacon and brown on all sides. You want to cook the bacon slowly so it releases the fat and browns evenly.

5. When the bacon is evenly seared, remove it from the pan. Keep the fat in the pan (this is where all the flavor comes from) and add your Brussels sprouts cut side face-down.

6. Roast the Brussels sprouts until there is nice even color on the faces, then deglaze with white wine.

7 When the white wine is sec (evaporated), add the chicken bouillon, maple syrup, and bacon.

8. Cook the Brussels sprouts until tender (about 5 minutes).

9. Season with salt and pepper if needed.

METHOD

1. Combine all ingredients and simmer for 40 minutes.

2. Remove from heat.

3. At this juncture, you can either blend or serve rustic.

part of the animal and plant has a use in the kitchen—from savory dishes and desserts to cocktails. There are creative ways to utilize everything.”

“Every

WHITE WINE RISOTTO

By Chef Eric Upper

Serves four INGREDIENTS

~ 1 cup Acquerello Carnaroli Rice

~ 4¼ tablespoons of butter

~ 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot

~ 4 tablespoons of white wine

~ 3 cups chicken bouillon, warm

~ 1/3 cup water

~ 1/8 cup grated Parmigiano

~ Salt ~ Pepper

METHOD

1. Sweat the shallot in a little less than half of the butter (1½ tablespoons) until translucent and tender.

2. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until grains of rice are translucent around the edges.

3. Deglaze with white wine, bring to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally until wine is completely evaporated, about 2 minutes.

4. Reduce heat to medium, then add hot chicken bouillon to rice in ¾-cup increments, stirring constantly and allowing liquid to absorb fully before adding more. On one of your last times adding liquid, add the hot water. Cook until rice is al dente and surrounded by fluid, a not-too-thick, creamy suspension.

5. Start checking the rice after about 15 minutes. The grains should be tender but not mushy, with a slightly firm center that doesn’t leave a chalky or bitty residue between your teeth after tasting. Do not overcook. This should take 18 minutes to cook, but time can vary quite a bit.

6. Remove the pot from heat and let rest 3 minutes, giving the rice time to fully absorb any liquid.

7. Add the remaining butter and cheese and season with salt and pepper. Plate and enjoy!

PEAR BLOSSOM COCKTAIL

By Bar Director Nicholas Bonney

Serves one INGREDIENTS

~ 4 ounces hot Earl Grey tea

~ 1 ounce apple brandy (Calvados or Applejack)

~ 1 ounce St. George spiced pear liqueur

~ 1/2 ounce Douglas Fir brandy

~ 1 ounce cranberry juice, unsweetened

~ 1/2 ounce honey

~ Cinnamon stick

~ Asian pear slice

~ Orange peel

METHOD

1. Boil water for the tea.

2. Steep the Earl Grey tea up to 2 minutes, adding additional liquid ingredients to combine.

3. Pour into a brandy snifter.

4. Add orange peel to the glass.

5 Garnish with Asian pear slice and serve.

OPTIONAL: Light the cinnamon stick on fire over the glass and in a smoking dome to engulf the glass in cinnamon smoke. Serve immediately, presenting in the glass dome.

AFICI’s full beverage program showcases a carefully curated list of wine, a selection of highly allocated spirits, and a menu of cocktails, as well as low proof cocktails, that take inspiration directly from the kitchen.

The cocktail menu, designed by San Francisco native, bar director Nicholas Bonney, encourages exploration and invites guests to enjoy classics alongside a list of inventive libations rotating seasonally. Here is a hot, deliciously flavored cocktail created by Bonney that will delight your senses and warm your toes and your soul for the season.

HL: Whom would you invite (dead or alive) to your dream holiday dinner party and why?

EU: I would be surrounded by family—alive and deceased— enjoying a huge Italian feast. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

HL: Growing up, my mom would make turkey stuffed with sticky rice—a traditional Thanksgiving dish in our home. What is your holiday menu for Thanksgiving and for Christmas for your family? Any must-have traditional dishes that you serve year after year?

EU: The holidays for any Italian family are huge, and mine is no exception. Growing up, we would have celebrations of up to 25 people with aunts, uncles, grandparents, and cousins. On Christmas Eve, we would have the bigger family gathering, and it was very much traditional Italian: tortellini en brodo, lasagne, quail, charcuterie, risotto—just a huge feast! My aunt would make panettone every year, and the table would be filled with pies, pastries and cookies made by family and picked up at the local Italian bakery. Christmas Eve was always a smaller family gathering and we tended to stay home, but the meal was just as important. The dinner most centered on Christmas roast.

Our holiday menus at AFICI this year are inspired by a lot of the dishes I enjoyed throughout childhood. I’m looking forward to sharing those with our guests!

HL: Anything “cooking” in the future horizon for you and/or the Alexander Steakhouse Restaurant Group? New restaurants, books, or projects in the works?

EU: As a company, Alexander’s Steakhouse Group is always looking at new opportunities. We would love an AFICI or another concept in Los Angeles. It would be great to work on an AFICI cookbook at some point, too!

INTRODUCING ONE OF THE MOST MAJESTIC GATED ESTATE PROPERTIES IN SOUTHLAKE

Introducing one of the most majestic gated estate properties in Southlake! 935 W. Dove Road exudes opulence on over 7 acres featuring a private pond with gorgeous fountains. A true dream 6 bedroom estate with over 20,750 square feet featuring Venetian plaster, marble, onyx, hardwoods, slate roofing & copper gutters. Designed for grande-scale entertaining and family living, this estate has it all: a bowling alley, game room with bar, tiered media room, indoor sports court, exercise room, 10-car garage, and more! A stunning kitchen with designer finishes opens to a luxurious living area. Extraordinary Owner’s Quarters complete with living area, grand bedroom with abundant custom closets, and spa-like en-suite opening to the private outdoor spa. Park-like acreage boasts lush landscaping and paved walking paths surrounded by native oak trees. Entertain with resort-style pool with multiple water features, a relaxing spa, and a covered patio with an outdoor kitchen. Come see and experience excellence!

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LOUIS VUITTON

Your beloved will swoon over either of these options from Louis Vuitton’s ateliers. Choose one … or both. From LV’s timeless Empreinte collection, the Empreinte bracelet boasts oodles of diamonds among gleaming rose gold ($17,500). To carry her things, the handcrafted Capucines BB bag, fashioned from a pantheon of rare and precious skins, will turn heads ($9,350). louisvuitton.com

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

BY BECCA HENSLEY

Flummoxed each holiday season with that annual ritual of gift giving? One rule of thumb helps narrow things down: spend more on a gift for someone than you would spend on yourself. And, for heaven’s sake, buy something for someone that they’d actually want—not something to encourage them to be something they’re not or something you want them to be. To whit, whether you’re buying to show love, pay homage, or mend a wrong, we’ve collected a shopping cart of artful presents sure to bedazzle. All you need now is the bow.

SANDPIPER SWEATER

Keep her warm in this elegant, cozy, impossibly soft, cobble-stone stitched Sandpiper Sweater. Complete with hoodie and ribbed knit cuffs, the reversible sweater can be layered or worn alone ($3,090). hanianewyork. com/knitwear/sandpiper-sweater

HERITAGE JEWELRY NEW YORK

Your mother loves to read, so give her a book: not just any book, but Heritage Jewelry New York’s new 14-karat gold book pendant. It has three interior pages, ideal for laser engraving special messages to last a lifetime ($5,000).

heritagejewelryny.com

GUCCI

Stuff her stocking with the latest from the Gucci atelier’s Hortus Deliciarum, a high-end jewelry collection with vintage undertones, designed by Alessandro Michele. The earrings feature 18-karat yellow gold with imperial topazes, fancy tourmalines, and diamonds (price upon request). Complementing them, this stunning black and multi-colored formal velvet jacket with embroidery details promises to be the life of the party ($12,900). gucci.com

CAN-AM ON-ROAD

Vroom. Your partner’s into power sports, so what better gift than a Ryker Rally model three-wheeled bike from Can-Am On-Road. Safe, stable, and easy to ride, the sexy, bold Ryker Rally can be customized with a variety of colors and accessories ($13,899). can-am.brp.com

DON Q LA RESERVA DE LA FAMILIA

He’s most proud of his prodigious bar. Take it up a notch when you wrap up a bottle of limited edition Don Q La Reserva de la Familia, presented in a custom case. Just launched with only 500 bottles remaining in the world, this blend of 20-year-old premium rum from Puerto Rico puts its owner in an elite club ($1,865 per 750ml bottle). donq.com

VALANI ATLELIER X GEMFIELDS

The lustrous ruby signifies passion. Show her you care when you present her with these bedazzling earrings by Valani Atlelier X Gemfields. The Gwyneth earrings showcase 14 Mozambican rubies sourced by Gemfields, the world’s leading source of colored precious gemstones. Cradled in 18-karat white gold and surrounded by 30 brilliant diamonds each, each ruby gleams ($210,000). gemfields.com

LAURANCE GRAFF SIGNATURE

When you put this glimmer of glamour on her wrist, she won’t need to wear anything else. The Laurance Graff Signature open diamond bangle ($12,500) vaunts a bezel setting with two solitaire diamonds united by a sleek stream of diamonds. Set in white gold. graff.com

Fun Holiday Food & Wine Pairings

BY NOËL BURGESS

IT’S THAT TIME OF YEAR! THE HOLIDAY SEASON IS UPON US AS we gather with our families and loved ones (some for the first time since the pandemic) to celebrate. If wine is art in a glass and food is an expression of cultural identity, then what will be the experience when combined? Perhaps as ugly sweaters are worn, belts are loosened, and fridges are raided for leftovers, the answer will come to you. Until then, here are a few examples of favorite recipes with wine pairings from some of the most diverse and famous brands in the industry. From their families to yours—enjoy and happy holidays!

The 2018 Aldina Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon has deep garnetpurple color with intensifying aromatics of hibiscus, pomegranate, dark cherry, and vanilla. This Cabernet Sauvignon is full-bodied with approachable, lush layers of silky-soft, dark fruit, caramel, toasty vanilla, tart cherries, and chocolate. The Lopez family pairs flavorful pork tamales with a glass of their Cabernet Sauvignon to bring out sweet, earthy flavors of the tamales.

Aperture

The 2021 Aldina Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is fruit-forward with uplifting acidity and captivating aromas of citrus blossom, grapefruit, and sweet peach. On the palate, this wine has rich, elegant flavors of toasty vanilla, lemon-lime sherbet, and honeysuckle that combine depth and fruit. Aldina Vineyards, owned by the Lopez family (Al, Dina, Francisco, and Monica), suggest pairing it with a beautiful, vibrant, and mildly spiced chicken pozole verde which pairs exquisitely with the light oak and elegant flavors of their Sauvignon Blanc.

The 2021 Aperture Barrel-Fermented Sauvignon Blanc pairs beautifully with a wide variety of dishes and is especially versatile with fish. For the holidays, Jesse Katz, owner and winemaker, pairs it with crab coated in an herbed butter sauce. The crisp acidity is smoothed over by the crab’s soft, flaky texture which brings out the wine’s fragrant fruit and honey characteristics. Add some cooked fennel as a side dish and taste how this Sauvignon Blanc’s herbaceous character shines.

A smoked brisket coated in a deep red wine sauce seasoned with thyme goes exceptionally well with the 2020 Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon. The fresh, youthful tannins coat the palate beautifully, accentuating the wine’s concentrated fruit flavors as hinted spice elements linger toward the finish, making this a beautiful companion to the brisket.

The 2020 DuMOL Finn Pinot Noir is a blend of two of DuMol’s favorite yet contrasting sites. One site grows old vines grown on heavier clay soils in a cool pocket of the Santa Rosa Plains. The other site is located on the Bressay Estate in the contrasting sandy, foggy ridgelines 11 miles from the coast. The ying and yang of these two sites give this wine a broad range of flavors with deep concentration, a chewy core, and a beautiful lift of crunchy red fruit and spices. The silky purity of the palate can stand up to meatier seasonal dishes like roasted prime rib. The bright acidity refreshes the palate between each bite, while the inky, pure fruit will marry and heighten rich flavors. One of their favorite pairings with this wine is a mushroom risotto.

The 2020 DuMOL Estate Vineyard Pinot is terroir driven, harvested from specific, selected parcels from their high-density estate vineyard in the foggy western edge of the Russian River Valley. This wine teems with tension and elegance. The perfumed bouquet of rose petal, pine, and black cherry lends this wine to be paired with a wide range from delicate to heartier dishes. The subtle earthy nuances and high acidity work beautifully with your Thanksgiving turkey. One of their favorite pairings with this vintage is roasted chicken slow-cooked on fresh seasonal vegetables such winter leeks and carrots. The earthiness of the wine complements the vegetables, and the fresh, coastal intensity and fine tannin structure work beautifully with the roasted chicken.

Sosie Wines

Celebratory with its saturated hue and tiny bubbles made from 100 percent Syrah grapes from the Vivio Vineyard of Bennett Valley in Sonoma County, Sosie’s 2019 sparkling red wine, “A Moment of Weakness,” makes for a holiday favorite. Festive in the glass with red fruit berry characteristics, savory notes of bacon, and a lovely acidity, this dry red sparkler is Sosie Wines’ co-founders Scott MacFiggen and Regina Bustamante’s go-to wine for their holiday roasted turkey and all the sides. “Holiday turkey dinners are full of myriad flavors competing for attention, such as cranberry and stuffing. The acidity in this wine helps refresh the palate with every bite. Bright red fruit flavors and tannins are delicate enough not to overpower the turkey.”

A delicious blend of 45 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 45 percent Merlot, and 10 percent Cabernet Franc, the Sosie’s 2017 Red Blend, Cavedale Vineyard, Moon Mountain hails from Sonoma’s renowned Moon Mountain. Sitting at an elevation of 2,000 feet, the vineyards here produce hardy mountain fruit that yield tiny but intense berries, resulting in a structured wine with defined tannins that is bottle-aged for over a year before release. A robust pairing is the cut of beef that is the top sirloin cap known as picanha (pronounced “pee-KAHN-ya”), a steakhouse specialty in Brazil, homeland to Sosie Wines’ co-founder Regina Bustamante. The flavorful cut is especially enjoyed throughout the holiday season. “The match between the picanha and wine rests with tannins, substances that come from grape skins, seeds, and stems as well as aging in oak barrels. The wine’s tannins help soften the fat in the meat, resulting in a greater release of flavor. The wine’s flavors of cherry, cranberry, and dark chocolate all meld together with fabulous freshness that can stand up to the robustness of the meat.”

Symington Estates

Graham’s 20 Year Tawny Port is made with the highest quality grapes from Symington Family Estates’ prized vineyards in the rugged Douro Valley of Portugal. The resulting wine is a blend matured in seasoned oak casks for an average of over 20 years in Graham’s historic Port Lodge outside Porto, Portugal. Almond tart, a favorite dessert in Portugal where almonds are grown near the famed vineyards of the Douro Valley, and Graham’s 20 Year Tawny Port are a classic holiday pairing. Food and wine pairing 101 tells us what grows together, goes together—in this case, almonds and port wine grapes! This dessert wine’s signature nutty character—the result of time spent ageing in oak barrels—makes for the perfect pairing with almond tarts.

The 2019 Pombal do Vesuvio red table wine hails from one of the great estates of the Douro Valley, home to some of the world’s finest port wines. This treasured vineyard also provides the fruit for this special wine, a unique blend of three Portuguese grapes: Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Amarela. Bacalhau com Natas (cod with cream) is one of the Portugal’s classic dishes, a baked gratin made with salted cod, onion, and slices of potato covered with bechamel sauce and cream. It is super creamy and yields generous portions and is traditionally served on Christmas Eve throughout Portugal, including in the Symington family home. “Salty dishes can often have the effect of making wine taste sweeter than it is, so a drier wine with good acidity, such as Pombal do Vesuvio, is an ideal match. Vesuvio’s signature thyme fragrance marries all the rich flavors of the bacalhau, while the acidity and freshness cut through the bechamel and creme, preparing you for your next delicious bite!”

McBride Sisters

The McBride Sisters Collection Reserve 2019 “Cocky Motherf*cker” Pinot Noir is inspired by Robin and Andréa’s father and his “presence, stature, intellect, and overall give-nof*cks attitude.” Sourced from Santa Lucia Highlands, Escolle Vineyard, and select rows of vines, the bold Pinot Noir exhibits aromas of crushed raspberry, rhubarb, and candied cherry. The palate is pure silk with bright acidity, lush red fruit flavors, and a hint of spice. “Juicy, opulent, and fresh with a long finish make this wine pair beautifully with a beef stew or roasted salmon for those hearty holiday dinners around the table with family.”

If you love a holiday brunch, the McBride Sisters Collection Sparkling Brut Rosé is there to enhance your holiday morning. The sisters pair it with a delicious cardamom French toast bake. The cinnamon and brown sugar crumble complements the notes of freshly crushed red berries and creamy richness within the sparkling brut rosé. With each sip, a toasty complexity and palatable notes of cranberry, raspberry, peach, and strawberry carry through, leading into a dry finish with a hint of spice.

CLASSIC TAHOE CHARM

Four bedrooms, three baths, two- to three-car garage, 3,681 square feet on nearly 1/2 acre. Private road shared by 4 residences. Magnificent views overlooking the garden, fire pit and cascading water feature. Garage has two tandem spaces plus an available lift for a third car. Adjoining is a spacious workshop that could be repurposed. French doors from the main level open to a south-facing deck with gas BBQ hookup, and there is garden access from entry level. Modern kitchen and beautifully tiled baths, several ceiling fans and thoughtful detail throughout the house make this move-in ready. Purchase has available 1/4 ownership in a Talmont lot for unlimited access to Tahoe Park Private Beach, affording buoy rental, exquisite beach, 2 piers and more. Visit www.355Bow.com $3,125,000

BROMA Highlights the Flavors of Iberia

BROMA’s Spanish-Portuguese menu takes guests on a culinary exploration through the Iberian Peninsula.

BY FRAN ENDICOTT MILLER

AFTER A CONSISTENT, 8-YEAR, MICHELIN-STAR RUN AT Mountain View’s Chez TJ, chef Jarad Gallagher felt inspired to explore a different menu format. That exploration led to his opening of BROMA, also in Mountain View and located within the Shashi Hotel. The casual-yet-refined, Spanish-Portuguese-focused Mediterranean restaurant takes guests on a culinary exploration through the Iberian Peninsula with the “BROMA Experience,” a 3-course chef’s tasting menu of what the kitchen is inspired to make based on what is available from the farmers’ market that morning.

Gallagher is the force behind BROMA’s culinary inspiration and creative direction. He leads the culinary team in collaboration with executive chef Aubree Arndt, and Justin Rodriguez leads the beverage program and overall restaurant operations. Previous partners at Chez TJ, Gallagher and Rodriguez sought to create a restaurant concept not readily found in the peninsula: a place that offers an elevated tasting menu experience at an accessible price within a scaled-down time frame.

Drawn his entire life to Spain and Portugal, Gallagher infuses BROMA with the spirit of the region he so admires. “When I first traveled through Spain and Portugal, I was in awe of their rich and vibrant cultures,” said Gallagher. “They have a connection to their past that they won’t let the modern world remove from them. They celebrate life over large, shareable meals. There is a deep, sincere passion for their ingredients. I instantly felt inspired by the bold, hearty cuisine and the passion for artistry. My heart is in Spain, my soul is in Portugal, and the incredible food in that region of the world continues to motivate me to cook.”

PHOTO: JUDE SEMANA

Justin Rodriguez (left) and Jarad Gallagher

Diners can expect bold flavors and diverse ingredients at BROMA. Rotating daily, the special, prix fixe menu is an expression of chefs Gallagher and Arndt’s collaborative ingenuity. The à la carte menu features an approachable array of starters, entrées, and desserts designed to delight a variety of palates and dietary preferences. Current à la carte menu highlights include: croquetas de pollo e Manchego with curtido, guajillo chile, and jamón Ibérico; hamachi crudo with plum, bay leaf, kumquat, and avocado; Spanish octopus with corn, tomato, and chili glaze; Alentejo pork cheek and clams with kimchi, potato, and spinach; and Flannery Beef’s dry-aged New York steak with ramps, potato, and fava beans. Desserts include crema catalana with mixed local fruits, and Valrhona Manjari mousse with chili sponge cake, pecans, and sea salt.

The beverage program features playfully curated cocktails based on fresh, seasonal ingredients and house-made bitters and mixers, putting creative spins on mezcal, tequila, and gin-based cocktails made with inventive bitters, fresh fruit mixers, and Spanish ingredients like olive oil and sherry. Highlights include a bespoke gin and tonic with St. George Botanivore, cinchona bark syrup, yuzu, elder flower tincture, and Fever Tree Indian tonic; a classic paloma with blanco tequila “milk punch,” grapefruit, soda, and ginger; a coffee martini with Wheatley vodka with cocoa nib, St. George NOLA coffee liqueur, California sherry, orgeat, and cold brew; and a house Old Fashioned with Woodford Reserve bourbon, house-made orange bitters, and charred cherry wood. Zero-proof house-made sodas include blood orange, grapefruit, and ginger-lime.

With complete control over the interior aspects, Gallagher and his team designed the 13,000-square-foot space with intention. Featuring private rooms, two patios, and imported artwork, the vibe is big, bold, fun, and vibrant. “When people dine at BROMA, I want them to feel transported and inspired, without the unnecessary formality of fine dining,” said Gallagher, who added that broma in Spanish means joke. “At BROMA, we make serious food, but the name is a reminder to my employees not to take themselves too seriously.”

Estiatorio Ornos

BY STEPH KEAY

ONE OF THE MOST BREATHTAKING BEACHES IN GREECE, ORNOS lies along a dreamy isthmus bridging the tranquility of the seaside with the urbanity of Mykonos. San Francisco’s Estiatorio Ornos, a restaurant that transports diners to the breezy Mediterranean isles, celebrates the spirit of this beautiful paradise.

Led by Michelin-starred chef Michael Mina in partnership with chefs Girair “Jerry” Goumroian and Nikolaos Georgousis, executive chef Daniela Vergara directs an inspired menu served in the warm yet elegant space. Its storied location at 252 California Street was previously home to the flagship Michael Mina restaurant and, prior to that, the iconic Aqua where Mina rose to renown. It continues its culinary legacy with Estiatorio Ornos, a 76-seat restaurant that pays homage to Greek cuisine, hospitality, and sensibilities, while representing Chef Mina’s continued innovation in San Francisco’s culinary scene. Columns of stark white drapes flow from the ceiling to the floor, separated by oversized floral arrangements spilling over their ivory vessels. Cozy, coral-colored banquettes flank one

side of the airy dining room next to a series of wall niches featuring handmade Grecian sculptures. The setting is luxurious but playful and inviting, combining upscale dining with a lively atmosphere.

“I grew up with large, nightly tableside meals being at the epicenter of family gatherings,” says Chef Mina. “Ornos’ menu is reflective of this spirit, as dishes are meant to be shared while connecting with loved ones, discovering new flavors, and fully embracing the celebratory spirit of the Greek Isles.” Inspired cocktails and an extensive wine list complement shareable plates that are simple, fresh, and flavorful—Greek food at its epitome. Fish selections are flown in daily from around the world, and diners can even consult the in-house fish sommelier for recommendations. “We wanted to create the unique position of the fish sommelier to serve as a knowledgeable expert in their craft and be at the forefront of sourcing, preparation, and cooking every piece of fish we serve at Ornos,” says Chef Vergara.

Savor the moment at Michael Mina’s restaurant where guests can experience the heartfelt hospitality and vibrant cuisine of Greece at its finest.

Estiatorio Ornos’ tableside baklava

23-karat gold-infused honey finishes the confection

Though each preparation has been highly thought out to showcase the delicate flavor and qualities of each fish, guests can also request their selection simply grilled whole over natural oak and finished with oregano, lemon, and Santorini capers. The mild, sweet Mediterranean sea bass is grilled with steamed greens or offered oven-roasted with a savory eggplant and tomato briam—a roasted vegetable medley. There’s a salt-crusted variation on the meaty Mediterranean sea bream, cracked tableside to reveal the moist, perfectly seasoned fish within. Meanwhile, petrale sole comes phyllo-crusted with skordalia—a traditional potato and garlic spread—and caviar sauce, complementing its delicately nutty flavor. Salmon is served grilled with a generous heap of a refreshing Aegean cucumber salad perched atop. Finally, sweet, succulent lobster cooked in Greek brandy crowns an Athenian-style pasta punctuated with perfectly ripe tomatoes.

While the seafood might appear to be the draw, visitors would be remiss to skimp on Estiatorio Ornos’ appetizers and entrées featuring lamb, beef, chicken, and even vegetarian dishes. Despite declaring myself somewhat on the other end of the scale when it comes to eating vegetarian, I’m enamored by the grilled manouri salad with stone fruits and hazelnuts and drizzled with honey balsamic dressing. It is divine—the slight tang of the manouri and floral sweetness of peaches are reminiscent of a languid summer by the Aegean Sea where the warm sun seems to slow time itself. Another similarly transcendent vegetarian dish is the wild mushroom and eggplant moussaka. Unbelievably creamy, the bechamel is so rich and the mushrooms so indulgent, it holds up to the non-vegetarian entrées on the menu—and then some.

Fish sommelier Mark Borges

Grilled octopus with capers, white beans, and red onion

Hamachi crudo with serrano, dill, and kiwi salsa verde

Other highlights include the grilled octopus, exceptionally tender and paired perfectly with briny capers, marinated white beans, and red onion—another tastefully balanced dish that conjures memories of a sun-soaked vacation in the Mediterranean. The hamachi crudo is another delectation topped with a hint of heat with serrano, dill, and a delightful kiwi salsa verde. The piquant sauce cuts through the fatty fish. The appetizer menu also pays tribute to Greek’s famed dips, including tzatziki and hummus as well as lesser-found spreads, such as the smoky melitzanosalata; spicy, feta-based tirokafteri; and rich, umami-flavored taramasalata. Be sure to save room for dessert. “The Lemon,” a picturesque sponge cake delicately shaped into its namesake fruit and filled with tart lemon jelly, is served with vanilla bean crumble. The star of the show and a fitting finale to a phenomenal fest of fine food is the baklava sundae. In a dramatic tableside presentation, crisp baklava is served with freshly scooped frozen Greek yogurt, toasted pistachios with a punch of preserved citrus Amarena cherries, and a crumbly sesame crunch. The grand confection is finished with luscious drizzles of 23-karat gold-infused honey.

Estiatorio Ornos’ menu showcases dishes with flavors ranging from subtle to full-bodied and textures from melt-in-your-mouth sea urchin to crisp zucchini fritters. They all pay homage to Greek cuisine’s roots, embodying both simplicity and elegance. “I want guests to walk away from their dining experience at Ornos feeling excited to return and with the intention of bringing other people in their life to have the same experience,” says Mina. Estiatorio Ornos is a destination to experience Greek food and hospitality at its most inspired, reveling in both the generous spirit of its culture and the delicious synergy of high-caliber ingredients.

PHOTOS: MINA GROUP

The stylish dining room marries Old World and contemporary design

Grilled salmon and Aegean cucumber salad

Salt-crusted sea bream is revealed tableside

Savor the Season at Lucia

Helmed by a new chef, the dishes at the destination restaurant of Bernardus Lodge & Spa in Carmel Valley impart a sense of time and place.

BY STEPH KEAY

A LUXE ESCAPE NESTLED IN THE BUCOLIC SETTING OF Carmel Valley, Bernardus Lodge & Spa is a 28-acre wine country retreat offering 73 guestrooms, suites, and villas tucked among picturesque vineyards and gardens. Feathery clouds roll in over the Santa Lucia Mountain range in the early morning, best viewed from the resort’s tranquil rose garden. However, the garden’s not limited to just these blooms—a chef’s garden spans two acres between pops of bright pink and sunset orange dahlias, well-serviced by three hives of buzzing Italian honeybees. It’s fitting, then, that the resort’s restaurant takes its name from the mountain overlooking the expansive garden that provides the fresh, flavorful produce for its homegrown dishes.

Following an intensive, nationwide search, chef Christian Ojeda took the helm of Lucia Restaurant & Bar in February. Born in Utah with Chilean roots, Ojeda grew up in New Mexico, and his training took him worldwide before he landed at Montage Deer Valley where he served as executive chef prior to Lucia. He attributes his classic European technique to time spent in France and Italy, which he now unites with California’s farm-to-table approach, championing the relationships between chef and producer, food and terroir.

Dusk creeps into the valley, and Lucia transforms into an intimate space with a cozy patio and flickering firepit (the better to enjoy the restaurant’s ample list of wine and cocktails, including nightcaps such as the apple spiced Fireside Snuggler). The menu highlights local and seasonal produce along with the region’s artisans and producers, serving guests a culinary experience that “takes them back to the land.”

King salmon on a bed of succotash and potatoes

Christian Ojeda, executive chef of Lucia Restaurant & Bar

PHOTOS: BERNARDUS LODGE & SPA (TOP), STEPH KEAY (BOTTOM)

We start with a seasonally inspired soup, warming and buttery, a pumpkin and ginger concoction topped with local olive oil, pumpkin seeds, and chives. It’s not just a taste of the current time—early autumn—but also the place. Just that morning, I had passed the small patch of pumpkins in the rose garden no more than 200 feet from my seat, and in front of Lucia is the herb garden from which the chives were freshly picked.

Next is an appetizer that celebrates the transition from summer to fall, a bright heirloom tomato carpaccio with splashes of mozzarella cream and sweet bursts of local strawberry, topped with a heap of petite greens and finished with aged balsamic and brioche crumble lending a welcome crunch. The braised beef short rib is a taste of the approaching winter—a comforting dish with its rich flavor and meltin-your-mouth texture, hard won by its lengthy cooking process. It sits atop a bed of silky aligot—potatoes combined with Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co.’s sweet and nutty Toma—amid swirls of au jus. Sweet and sour onions, roasted asparagus, and a garden herb gremolata finish the divinely indulgent dish.

The entrees further pull from the region’s producers and the garden’s riches: a Monterey-fished king salmon served with summer corn succotash, cherry tomatoes, golden potatoes, patty pan squash, and a scallion and red pepper emulsion and a local beet ravioli with artichokes, wild mushrooms, asparagus, squash, and tomato fondue. The double-cut lamb chop is served with a crispy goat cheese polenta cake and guajillo chile jus—a nod to Chef Ojeda’s childhood.

He speaks of these Southwestern influences from the handground polenta we witnessed in New Mexico to the oft-used guajillo chile prized for its smoky-yet-sweet quality. He enjoys testing out various ingredients, depending on what’s in season, and curating a menu that showcases the flavors of Carmel Valley at each ingredient’s peak. “That’s very important to me as a chef,” he says.

Just the day before, he paired up with Dick Swank of Hollister’s Swank Farms for an organic heirloom tomato lunch-and-learn held at Lucia. Among the offerings were a tomato and lavender lavash, a green chili and wild mushroom macaroni and cheese, and even a house-made tomato and basil sorbet. “Hearing his passion behind the tomatoes and his farm—that’s what excites me,” he says.

Lucia’s dessert menu also changes with the seasons, and we’re fortunate to experience the burnt Basque cheesecake as our finale— which I’ve never quite had with this treatment—served alongside a surprisingly potent piña colada foam, vanilla pineapple compote, and toasted coconut.

“Coming here, I wanted to get back into what I joined this industry for, and that’s to get a little more personal with our guests,” says Ojeda. He leads a tour of the herb and vegetable gardens, vineyards, and orchards on Saturdays, alongside renowned horticulturist Mark Marino who tends the property’s gardens.

Guests are invited to explore the gardens with a glass of Bernardus Winery’s award-winning Chardonnay in hand. From squash to white lavender, and even Persian mulberry, there’s a bounty of surprising ingredients that inspire Lucia’s flavorful dishes, so unique to this region and time of year. “I’m still of the old school manner [where I] like to know the farmers, know where things are coming from, and how they’re processed,” he says. “That’s what brought me here. It’s a little bit more hands-on, more hyperlocal— where the farmers come right to your back door.”

Lamb with a goat cheese polenta cake and guajillo chile jus

The cozy patio at Lucia

PHOTOS: STEPH KEAY (TOP), BERNARDUS LODGE & SPA (BOTTOM)

BY JENNIFER BODEN PHOTOGRAPHER VINCENT GOTTI EXECUTIVE PRODUCER TERESA RODRIGUEZ HAIR AND MAKEUP OZZIE MENDOZA WARDROBES AND STYLING PROVIDED BY NEIMAN MARCUS

or Karen Horton, M.D., relocating to San Francisco was an American dream come true. The Toronto-born surgeon had heard many stories from her surgeon father, who interned at the San Francisco Veteran Affairs Hospital in 1965. Dr. Horton personally relocated to San Francisco in 2005 to complete her reconstructive microsurgery fellowship and has not looked back. She fell in love with the beauty of the Bay Area and the ability to remain active outdoors year-round. While her life and career look bright and shiny to all who meet the ebullient doctor, her journey to success was a long one that crossed many borders and spanned a few generations.

Dr. Horton is the daughter of World War II refugees and an immigrant herself. “I am the embodiment of the American Dream. My parents’ families escaped Estonia when the Soviet Union invaded their country in 1943, fleeing to other countries in Northern Europe and living as displaced immigrants for nearly a decade before being accepted as immigrants to Toronto, Canada. I left my birth country and immigrated to the United States to pursue my dream of being a private practice surgeon in control of her own destiny.”

She learned from her father, a surgical oncologist who specialized in breast cancer treatment, just how time-consuming and sometimes allencompassing a surgical career could be. Surgery and patients often came before family. Fearing she might also become a workaholic surgeon, Dr. Horton did not want to automatically follow her father’s footsteps. However, following her interest and aptitude for math, science, and art, she discovered plastic surgery, which was the perfect career for her.

Growing up, Dr. Horton had often thought about becoming an artist, but she also excelled in math and science. Plastic surgery was the perfect combination—she uses her hands, her creativity, and her brain to produce artful results. Dr. Horton enjoys every aspect of her practice: correcting congenital issues, repairing traumatic injuries, helping people embrace the aesthetic they want, and providing reconstructive surgery for breast cancer patients.

A committed advocate for surgical maternity leave and a local philanthropist, Dr. Horton has long supported Stepping Out to Celebrate Life, an annual Marin gala that supports women facing breast cancer and features a fashion show with patient models walking the runway. She also supports the Sparkle Foundation which provides single mothers and their children and women entrepreneurs direct financial support.

We discuss how Dr. Horton’s life experiences have shaped her practice, and how beauty can be this holiday season’s most meaningful gift.

HL: How did you end up practicing in Pacific Heights?

KH: I was born and raised in Toronto and visited the Bay Area as a young teen. My surgeon father interned at the SF Veteran Affairs Hospital during his medical training and considered working at UCSF, but ultimately,

he returned to Canada to practice so as to not be drafted to fight in the Vietnam War. I feel I’m fulfilling his dream of practicing as a surgeon in San Francisco. Following five years of plastic surgery training in Canada, I moved to San Francisco for a final fellowship year in reconstructive microsurgery. I joined an all-women plastic surgery practice in Pacific Heights that I ultimately took over and have subsequently grown to our current thriving practice.

HL: You fell in love with the Bay Area immediately?

KH: Soon after I moved here in 2005, I knew San Francisco was home. I don’t miss the Canadian winters, but I do return to our lakeside cottage each summer to visit with family and friends. I now live in Marin with my husband, Mike, and our twins, Sarah and Elizabeth. I get to exercise outside year-round and travel to Tahoe every winter weekend for my twin daughters’ ski team and family recreational skiing.

HL: Tell us about your journey to become a surgeon.

KH: Growing up, I wanted to become an artist. I also excelled at math and science in school. (I scored 100% in high school calculus.) I hesitated to follow in my medical father’s footsteps. However, working in a lab for two years to earn my master’s degree in molecular biology/cancer research was insightful. I much more enjoyed volunteering with young women recovering from eating disorders and bartending to pay the rent than experimenting with mice and test tubes! I was born to directly interact with people and to help others or shake them a mean martini.

In medical school, I learned that plastic surgery enabled me to use my hands, my creativity, my brains, and my desire to improve others’ lives every day. Together, my patients and I explore psychological issues such as body image and self-esteem and participate in shared decision-making about what is best for them. Plastic surgery involves restoration of all tissues of the body, ranging from birth to old age. It treats congenital birth conditions, injuries resulting from trauma, cancer defects, or the desire for body modification for personal reasons. My profession involves much more than what people typically consider when they think about plastic surgery.

HL: Your demanding medical training/career led to starting a family later in life. Tell us about your fertility struggle and how you’ve supported other women in similar situations.

KH: I had been married for seven years when my husband was ready to be a dad himself. I would have loved to start our family when my fertility was optimal, but I was intentionally intimidated and pressured by some senior male surgery teachers not to get pregnant, as it would make the training program suffer and I would be at risk of losing my residency position, in other words, to be fired.

Stunned to hear this, I got involved in graduate student politics and was appalled to learn that there was no maternity or paternity protection for medical residents who happened to become pregnant at my university. It took five years of advocacy, but when I graduated in 2005 from surgical residency, we had secured a 2-week protected leave for any resident, male or female, to be with their newborn and not be at risk of getting fired. Fast-forward 17 years, all residents get a full year off for maternity leave, protected from discrimination or losing their training positions.

I’m proud I helped to pave the way for those women to start their families earlier, rather than find themselves in the spot I was years later—facing infertility at age 39 after trying to conceive for several years when I started my private practice. I am indeed grateful for modern medicine and in-vitro fertilization, as without IVF I would not have given birth to the Horton twins! I am now an “older mom” to tweens at 51, but feel I’m as active, energetic, and youthful as other moms in my daughters’ school group.

HL: Your husband is a stay-at-home dad. Why was that the best decision for your family?

KH: I married my husband, Mike, when I was 25. We were young, but knew we were soulmates and would be partners in life. Mike has been my number one supporter through many challenges. He gave up his career several times during my medical training or when we moved to a new city for residency or fellowship.

When the twins turned eight, Mike became a full-time super-dad and took on all parental duties during the week, from pick-up and drop-off, driving the girls to soccer, cross country to ski team every weekend. My daughters are so fortunate to have a dedicated father who found his calling.

HL: Is having your own practice a dream come true?

KH: Absolutely, I love recruiting and hiring my own personal operating room team. In many ways, we become like family, and our patients can rely on us to work together to achieve their goals. Team members are with the patient from their preoperative visit to the day of surgery, and throughout their postoperative care. This enables continuity of care and a friendly face at all times during the surgical journey. Most importantly it ensures consistency, reliability and safety in the operating room.

“

always say the best plastic surgery is all around us, but you would never know. Results do not need to look “overdone” or obvious to others. We all want to put our best face forward and to look as youthful as we feel inside— and we should.

Plastic surgery also isn’t for everyone. However, it’s not vain to want to look your best at every age. The typical plastic surgery patient isn’t a celebrity or socialite; it’s a normal person who just wants to look as good as they realistically can. In our office, we see women and men from their twenties to their seventies who are looking to rejuvenate their face, breasts, or body.

HL: Talk about the gift of beauty. What does that mean to you?

KH: Beauty is a gift we all are born with, and true beauty is a trait that comes from within. However, even the most externally “beautiful” people age. Our faces lose volume, soft tissues sag and deflate, natural collagen stores get depleted, and elastin weakens. Plastic surgery and non-surgical aesthetic treatments can help restore many features that are lost with age and that represent youth, but you should always maintain your own unique aesthetic. It’s ridiculous for a woman or man in their fifties or sixties to try to look 20 again. However, many products and treatments available through a board certified plastic surgeon’s office can help you look your very best, at any age.

SURGERY TREATS CONGENITAL BIRTH CONDITIONS, INJURIES

CANCER DEFECTS,

PROFESSION

HL: Tell us about your new office.

KH: Our new Pacific Heights office features the newest and most stateof-the-art outpatient operating room in the entire Bay Area. It took nearly three painful years to plan and build (during a pandemic). We are so proud to have moved into our new space and to be up and running. Our entire suite has tons of natural light, a view of the Golden Gate Bridge tips and Sutro Tower, natural wood, and a modern, clean-but-warm aesthetic. The operating room is the cleanest, safest, and most efficient fully accredited operating room I’ve ever operated in, and it’s exclusive to our patients.

HL: Why are you a leading Bay Area plastic surgeon?

KH: I’ve been in private practice in San Francisco since 2006. I am “the same person” at work in the O.R. that I am with patients, with my family at home, and with close friends. I don’t take myself too seriously, although I am a perfectionist and put pressure on myself to always do my best in every situation. I genuinely care about every single patient I treat.

I believe the best plastic surgeons have an eye for the aesthetic, meticulous attention to detail, a compassionate demeanor, a gentle bedside manner, flexibility during surgery (able to problem-solve intraoperatively in a challenging reconstructive situation), and the ability to put themselves in others’ shoes. If I wasn’t a plastic surgeon, I’m not sure what I’d do— perhaps teach children or create art.

HL: What’s a common misconception about plastic surgery?

KH: Plastic surgery doesn’t always involve cutting and sewing. Many aesthetic procedures offered in my office have nothing to do with surgery. We offer the full range of neuromodulators like Botox® and Dysport®, injectable dermal fillers, laser treatments, and medical-grade skin care. I

HL: What are your five top winter treatment recommendations?

KH: Winter is a popular time to undergo procedures requiring a little more downtime, since patients are getting less sun, and most have more time off to recover around the holidays. Cooler weather facilitates bundling up over postoperative garments after more extensive surgical procedures such as tummy tucks, breast lifts, liposuction, and lower facelifts/neck lifts.

Now is a great time to have laser treatments to address some of the visible signs of sun damage. In the winter, we are busy with IPL (intense pulsed light) and Clear + Brilliant® laser treatments to address sunspots, hyperpigmentation, and other visible signs of sun damage on the face, neck, chest and hands.

Dermal fillers are also very popular in the countdown to the holidays. It’s common for patients to seek out a “full face tuneup” with dermal filler around this time. Artfully placed filler can help restore volume lost through the aging process and freshen up the face, just in time for holiday parties and visits with friends and family.

HL: What’s your personal favorite treatment to have done in winter?

KH: Wintertime is the best time to tackle inevitable sun damage that accumulates over the preceding sunny seasons. IPL laser-type treatments help to reduce brown spots and broken blood vessels (telangiectasias) that are common features of sun damage. I get my semi-annual fillers touched up by our aesthetic nurse practitioner, Emily Sespaniak, in the winter and quarterly Botox treatments to smooth out my forehead lines, frown lines, and crow’s feet without looking “frozen” or devoid of facial expression.

Follow Dr. Horton on Instagram @DRKARENHORTON Contact her at drkarenhorton.com or 415-923-3067

PLASTIC

RESULTING FROM TRAUMA,

OR THE DESIRE FOR BODY MODIFICATION. MY

INVOLVES MUCH MORE THAN WHAT PEOPLE TYPICALLY CONSIDER WHEN THEY THINK ABOUT PLASTIC SURGERY.

Some of San Francisco’s finest share their dining secrets.

BY BECCA HENSLEY

THAT SHINY THING PINNED TO THE LAPEL OF YOUR favorite concierge? It’s a golden key, a symbol of their status as a master at solving problems. Standing at attention behind a desk in the lobby of the best hotels, le clefs d’or—the golden keys— are people we can count on for almost every query we have as guests. Our wish, indeed, is their command. Holding troves of knowledge, these keepers of facts are experts in subjects as far reaching as art and wine. They’ll do unexpected tasks or errands to satisfy guests— sometimes even drawing from their own hobbies and talents— think: joining a guest for a run or as a partner on the tennis court. A concierge can literally (and metaphorically) use their “keys” to open the door to any experience we seek as travelers; but when it comes to dining, there’s no doubt that concierges know best. We’ve turned to some of the city’s best to find out where they like to nosh

MICHAEL DUNLAP, ASSISTANT CHIEF CONCIERGE, FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SAN FRANCISCO AT EMBARCADERO

“We’re always looking forward to the next guest and to the next new thing,” says Dunlap. “We want to give guests something that will make their day.” Studying restaurant openings even when away from his concierge desk, ever in search of new offerings, Dunlap knows the Bay Area intimately. With decades of experience, he likes nothing better than to send a guest off to a meal that he knows will wow them.

For Breakfast: I’m a fan of Zazie, a charming, dog-friendly French bistro in the Cole Valley. Eggs Benedict and the croque monsieur/ madame here are not to be missed.

For Lunch: Request a table on the patio at La Mar, a Peruvian restaurant, to nosh next to the water. Order the salmon with coconut milk.

For Dinner: Graceful Gozu excels in all aspects of Japanese fare. Go for their fireside tasting menu, a feast of Wagyu, seafood, and wild food.

Bonus Tip: “Rosemary, my fellow concierge, and I love the new Porchetta at the hotel’s Lounge & Bar! It is our house-made, slowroasted pork belly in nduja sausage.”

Michael Dunlap

Salmon with coconut milk at La Mar

PHOTOS: MICHAEL DUNLAP (TOP), LA MAR (BOTTOM)

ROSEMARY NORIEGA, LOBBY CONCIERGE, FOUR SEASONS HOTEL SAN FRANCISCO AT EMBARCADERO

A concierge for eight years, Noriega says she is “obsessed with fine dining.” Proud of her hotel, she touts the fact that its guest rooms occupy the top 11 floors of the building, beginning on the 40th floor through the 48th floor and promising spectacular views. “Walk across our skybridge and you’ll feel like you are flying.”

For Breakfast: I adore farm-to-table Plow for its custard French Toast. Don’t leave without trying the crispy Plow potatoes. You’ll enjoy them at the restaurant’s atmospheric oak barrel tables.

For Lunch: Go to Tadich Grill for the iconic prawn cocktail. This is the oldest, continually run restaurant in California. You’ll find it in the Financial District.

For Dinner: My favorite dinner place is Nari for Thai-Californian cuisine. My go-to dish is squid and pork jowl. Imagine Monterey squid in chili-lime dressing with sweet, succulent pork jowl, topped with peanuts and cilantro. So delicious!

TOM WOLFE, CHEF CONCIERGE AT FAIRMONT SAN FRANCISCO

Trained by legendary concierges in London and Paris, Wolfe began working at Fairmont San Francisco in 1972, when the concept of concierge did not exist in the United States. Under his tutelage, the Fairmont San Francisco became the first hotel in the United States to offer this longed-for service. “I saw a great opportunity to take this revered European tradition, inject it with American spirit, and implement the concept at the Fairmont San Francisco,” he says.

For Breakfast: My favorite breakfast place is the Buena Vista Café at the corner of Beach and Hyde Streets. This is where Irish coffee was first introduced to the United States many years ago. They still make about 3,000 a day, and they are delicious. You can also get a Ramos Fizz, or any other libation of choice. I usually opt for eggs Benedict, but they do have quite a variety of breakfast fare.

For Lunch: Go to Sam’s Grill in the Financial District. This old school establishment still has booths for privacy and an atmosphere that makes you feel like you just stepped out of a Humphrey Bogart movie. Sam’s has classic grilled cuisine and also does very good crab.

For Dinner: There’s nothing finer than Acquerello which has two Michelin stars. They have a number of tasting menus which is what I usually will have. It’s a classic restaurant that serves modern-day Italian in an atmosphere where you can still have a conversation and the tables are not packed together.

Bonus Tip: You’ve got to go for dim sum. I consider myself an “old Asia hand,” having spent a number of years out East. I’ve rarely come across dim sum to rival Yank Sing’s. It’s kind of a brunch type of affair, and there is something quite charming about the “point and eat” way of ordering.

Squid and pork jowl at Nari

KELLY RICHIE, LEAD CONCIERGE, THE RITZ-CARLTON, SAN FRANCISCO

“Not only am I fortuitous enough to work at one of the city’s most illustrious hotels, but I also have the great fortune to work in a destination like San Francisco where there is an abundance of great choices for everything from dining and entertainment to outdoor adventure and natural beauty,” says Ritchie. A concierge at the Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco for over 22 years and originally from Boston, Ritchie has been enamored with San Francisco since 1998.

For Breakfast: Indulge in the famous, deep fried French toast, infused with Grand Marnier, at Sweet Maple on Sutter Street in Lower Pacific Heights.

For Lunch: You must try the fried chicken sandwich at Wayfare Tavern on Sacramento Street. Serving food inspired by local cuisine from the turn of the 20th century, this celebrity chef-helmed hotspot feels like a characteristic, American-style pub.

For Dinner: Swoon over the caviar doughnuts and 10-ounce, prime, dry-aged Black Angus filet mignon at Miller & Lux.

DANIEL REY, CHEF CONCIERGE, ST. REGIS SAN FRANCISCO

“I’m a (lacto-ovo) vegetarian, so be aware that my favorites tend to skew that direction,” says Rey who began his career in the concierge profession at the Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco. Honing his skills, Rey started as a club concierge on the private club level, eventually moving to the St. Regis in 2017 as chief concierge. “One of my proudest moments was in 2019, when I was elected to the board of directors for the esteemed concierge organization, Les Clefs d’Or, USA,” he says.

For Breakfast: Sweet Maple makes the best “soufflegg” skillets, These wholesome and deliciously soft, steamed egg scrambles are served in a skillet.

For Lunch: I recommend Tartine Manufactory for its exemplary grilled cheese, which combines Cheddar, caña de cabra, pickled goat horn peppers, and sour cherries. This fantastic bakery is powered by a wood-fired oven.

For Dinner: Atmospheric Foreign Cinema gets my vote. Its vegetable tagine with Tunisian slow-cooked tomatoes, julienne squash, snap peas, cauliflower, polenta cake, feta cheese, and jalapeño never ceases to please. Plan ahead if you want a seat in the popular patio area.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WAYFARE TAVERN, CLEFS D’OR, USA, TARTINE MANUFACTORY, THE RITZ-CARLTON, SAN FRANCISCO

Croissants at Tartine Manufactory

Chicken sandwich at Wayfare Tavern

CAROLINE JEWELL, CONCIERGE, ST. REGIS SAN FRANCISCO Jewell, who recently celebrated 25 years with Marriott Corporation and was part of the original concierge team opening the desk at the St. Regis, says a special aspect of her job is that “guests place their trust directly in me, and I have the freedom to create individual and memorable experiences for them.” She has served as president of the Northern California Concierge Association for three terms and is currently an active member of its board and recognized by the Hotel Council of San Francisco for outstanding service in the hospitality industry.

For Breakfast: Astra Restaurant at the St. Regis provides the ideal setting for your power breakfast or the basic serenity you may seek in starting your day. Millionaire bacon with maple glaze and Périgord truffles is not to be missed.

For Lunch: Mission Bay was indeed blessed when Gott’s Roadside opened at Chase Center, home of the world champion Golden State Warriors. Come with an appetite and order the California burger with a mint chip shake (and don’t forget the fries).

For Dinner: Established in 1908, historic John’s Grill exudes nostalgia with its dark setting and wood paneling. The steaks are great, but my go-to is Sam Spade’s lamb chops.

Bonus Tip: Multiple culinary award winner Gary Danko continues to provide one of San Francisco’s most elegant dining experiences. Choose the phenomenal horseradish-crusted salmon medallion with dilled cucumbers and grain mustard sauce from the fish and seafood course. You can travel to the restaurant by cable car, only a 10-minute walk from the closest stop.

BILL SUTTON, CHIEF CONCIERGE, INTERCONTINENTAL SAN FRANCISCO

“I have been a concierge here in our city by the bay for 26 years,” says Sutton, who started his career at the Park Hyatt Hotel and joined the opening team at the InterContinental in 2008. Before that, he enjoyed a career traveling around the globe as an actor, “spreading the good cheer of the American theater.”

For Breakfast: Go to Sears Fine Food for Swedish silver dollar buttermilk pancakes. Sometimes it’s the classics that get me out of bed in the morning. These famous little pillows of heaven are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. The portion size of 17 hardly seems enough. Although they are basically a delivery device for butter and syrup, I have been eating these since I was a wee lad. They will also sell you the batter mix, so that you can recreate the love at home.

For Lunch: Head Hog Island Oyster Co. for clam chowder. People come to San Francisco and say they want clam chowder in a bread bowl, but do they really? Why not have a bowl of clam chowder made to order? That’s exactly what they do at Hog Island. You order a bowl, they make you a bowl. Twenty-four clams go into a pan with heavy cream, potatoes and bacon. The bread is served on the side, so you’re not stuck with a leftover round of soggy sourdough. Pair this with our own recipe for creamy grilled cheese sandwich, soak up the bay view, and call it a day.

For Dinner: Get cioppino at Anchor Oyster Bar. This cozy neighborhood gem does not have an extensive menu, but everything they offer is stellar: service, atmosphere, and especially the cioppino with light, spicy broth; briny fresh shellfish; and the local, sweet Dungeness crab. Close your eyes: it tastes like San Francisco. Pro tip: Don’t decline when they offer you the ridiculous plastic bib. You’ll need it!

Sam Spade’s lamb chops at John’s Grill

Swedish silver dollar buttermilk pancakes at Sears Fine Food

With Boston Mayor Kevin H. White and HRH Queen Elizabeth II (right); escorting Queen Elizabeth II to a luncheon in Boston, 1976 (left)

A PERSONAL TRIBUTE TO Queen Elizabeth II

BY LAURIE JO MILLER FARR

“HER CURIOUS AND SMILING EYES” IS HOW ONE JOURNALIST RECENTLY DESCRIBED THE LASTING IMPRESSION MADE BY QUEEN ELIZABETH II during a personal encounter some years ago. After spending a day with her, I couldn’t have put it any better. That, together with her quick smile, light laughter, lilting voice, and a singular ability to put others at ease in her presence describes the United Kingdom’s longest reigning monarch.

Yes, there was pomp and circumstance, too … plenty of it.

Following a USA recce by the British Embassy and President Ford’s chief of protocol, I was invited to witness Trooping the Colour in London to be briefed first-hand on protocol. Back in Boston, my job in the Office of the Mayor involved briefing dignitaries and their wives on everything from hats and gloves to curtsies, just one section of the minute-by-minute preparations for July 11, 1976, that produced a 3-inch thick manual many months in the planning.

The occasion was the American Bicentennial which Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and His Royal Highness Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, observed with a state visit to Washington, D.C., plus visits to New York City, Philadelphia, and Boston as well as Monticello and Newport, Rhode Island.

Before departing to open the Montréal Olympics, the queen thanked our team at a reception onboard the Royal Yacht Britannia. Docked in Boston Harbor against a backdrop of fireboat salutes in a traditional beating retreat and farewell ceremony, the evening was complete with trumpet fanfare, flirtatious quips from the Duke of Edinburgh, and generous gin and tonics (no ice) served from a gleaming silver platter. It was an unforgettable ending to a particularly hot summer day filled with Murphy’s Law moments when things went unexpectedly off script, as they are bound to do. Naturally, Queen Elizabeth II gracefully took it all in stride.

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Lausanne and the Lavaux

The wine made here is so good the Swiss drink it themselves.

BY BECCA HENSLEY

WHEN I MEET MY WINE GUIDE, PASCALE FESQUET, AT A TINY train station somewhere between Montreux and Lausanne on the Swiss Riviera in Switzerland’s UNESCO-listed Lavaux region, she looks me over carefully. “Can you hike in those?”

She points to my boots. They’re not trekking shoes, but fashionable, white patent leather, ankle-high numbers. Plus, I’m wearing a dress. I nod with confidence. She looks a bit skeptical and points to some steep, vine-covered hills looming above us and a village far in the distance, all anchored by gleaming Lac Leman (Lake Geneva).

“We’re going all the way up there, as far as the eye can see,” she says, setting off quickly into the towering slope of vineyards before us. I scramble after her, clambering up the undulating paths through the vines, a patchwork of grape-filled landscape sectioned off with stone walls. On the way, she tells me about “the three suns,” the phenomenon that makes the region so unique.

“We have three heat sources that ensure our microclimate,” she says. “The sun—” she points upwards “—the lake—” she gestures toward the lake, its mirror-like water reflecting the sky “—and the slate stone walls that heat up during the day, which warm the vines at night.”

One of Europe’s most storied wine regions, the Lavaux stretches for only 20 verdant miles and occupies about 2,000 acres of hilly terrain. The vineyard-clad hills rise from Lake Geneva’s shores. Known for its signature production, Chasselas (a festive, fruity, easily drunk wine, ideal for warm days and year round aperitif swilling), the Lavaux region (like Switzerland’s other wine regions) exports very little of the wine. In fact, the Swiss drink most of the yield themselves.

Created only in small batches and produced free from chemicals, the labor-intensive Chasselas wine is primarily crafted without machinery, often being inspired by (and borrowing from) ancient biodynamic principles.

We end our hike (the boots manage to take me to the top, after all) in the charming, medieval wine village of Epesses. Renowned as the epicenter for some of Lavaux’s best wines, Epesses also sports jaw-dropping views overlooking the lake. Tiny alleyways, ancient buildings, châteaux, and colorful doorways hold scores of intimate tasting rooms. We take a seat at one, Les 11 Terre, a friendly wine cellar run by Julien Spielmann. His maisonette stocks more than 50 crus from the area, specifically drawing from 11 adjacent winemakers. Sipping not just Chasselas, but other whites

and some reds, in an informative (and delectable) tasting, Pascale and I sit outside with Julien, the three of us as sun dappled as the vines that surround us. As we swill (and sweat), I ask Pascale, “Could we be the fourth sun?”

Back at my hotel, Hôtel Royal Savoy Lausanne, a stunningly refurbished art nouveau palace steps from Lake Geneva, I perch at the rooftop SkyBar and peer at the vineyards from afar. In one direction, Lausanne, dating back to the Middle Ages and its architectural fabric an amalgamation of the centuries, rises up a hill. From another viewpoint, the lake’s shoreline brims with walkers, swimmers, picnickers, and boaters. Across the water, the lights of France begin to twinkle, announcing the approach of evening. I stay until dusk, sipping a glass of Chasselas. The wine tastes of dancing sunlight and the toil and passion of generations of family winemakers working their plots on the hills I’ve hiked today. It’s like Switzerland in a glass.

WHERE TO STAY

Hôtel Royal Savoy Lausanne, beloved by jet setters, noble expats (think of the Spanish royal family and the King of Thailand), and celebrities aplenty, exudes extraordinary majesty without being stuffy. Its recent, nearly $100 million reset ensures that it summons history (but with contemporary flair) and evokes glamour (yet in a comfortable, casual way). I was delighted to see lots of children with their parents on the premises.

Encased in a leafy park, the Royal Savoy comprises two sections: the original historic château and a newly built portion which holds both rooms and the haven-like, 5,000-square-foot spa, complete with Dr Burgener Switzerland products, made in Lausanne. Guests

Hôtel Royal Savoy Lausanne

Hôtel Royal Savoy Lausanne

enjoy an outstanding hydrotherapy pool which sits in a garden. Indoors, saunas, hammans, a state-of-the-art gym, and treatment rooms provide repose.

The spa offers numerous exercise and mindfulness classes. Don’t miss a yoga practice, led by local yogi Merit Hulliger, founder of IM Yoga GmbH, which often takes place outdoors on the grounds. Besides SkyBar with its festive cocktails, social scene, and tapasstyle menu, the Hôtel Royal Savoy’s flagship restaurant, Brasserie du Royal, serves elegant dishes with regional nuances and local ingredients.

When not gallivanting about the vineyards or along the lake, I spend afternoons in the Lounge Bar with a coffee beneath the pharaonic violet chandelier and in the presence of a wall of mirrors and gilt-framed art. Atop the cerulean velvet sofas, I might be visiting royalty myself. royalsavoylausanne.com

DON’T MISS

While in Lausanne, be sure to explore Old Town. Wander into the many independent shops, walk the lakeshore, take a boat ride, hike into the vineyards to taste (and experience) the wines of the Lavaux, and visit the fascinating Olympic Museum.

PURA VIDA

El Mangroove, where luxury and nature bond

BY TERESA RODRIGUEZ

PHOTO: EL MANGROOVE, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION

“WE’D BEEN LOOKING FOR A VACATION HOME FOR YEARS,”

Anne shares with me as we wait for our lunch to arrive. “Then we decided to take a quick trip to Costa Rica for a few days. It’s an easy flight from California, and we found this darling boutique hotel just 20 minutes from Liberia International Airport on the Gulf of Papagayo.”

I take a bite of my salad and continue to listen.

“The airport in Liberia was as sophisticated and modern as SFO. Getting through customs was a breeze, and the ride to the hotel was quick. When my husband Doug and I arrived, we were greeted with such hospitality and warmth. We were so impressed by the genuine kindness of the Costa Ricans and how well the staff managed everything that, after one full day at El Mangroove boutique hotel, we decided to look at properties.”

Anne smiles and continues her story, “The management at El Mangroove introduced us to some real estate agents, and we were off and running. Within days, we found a beautiful home with great amenities, and we bought it! We also loved El Mangroove so much that we stayed there for the 30 days that it took to close escrow.”

I’m impressed. It’s rare for individuals to invest in a new home and stay at a hotel for a month, especially since they had only been in Costa Rica for one whole day. So, I think to myself that this place must be spectacular.

“Come with me. I’m returning to El Mangroove while we get the appliances set up in the house. You will love it.”

So, I did. The flight from SFO to Liberia International Airport was effortless, and the drive to El Mangroove was a breeze. Anne was right. The airport was clear and well-organized, and the customs officials were incredibly efficient.

The all-suite El Mangroove is nestled in the peaceful Gulf of Papagayo’s Playa Panama, hidden on 17 acres of beachfront forest surrounded by lush mangroves. Although the boutique hotel is incredibly close to the airport, it feels as though it is tucked away in some deserted jungle paradise.

The surrounding environment inspires the property’s chic, contemporary design, including two restaurants, a spa, and, at its center, the adults-only, 130-foot-long, freshwater, black-tiled pool facing the beach. Four more pools and private cabañas for families and children past the restaurants add to the hotel’s charm.

Unlike typical hotel rooms, the partially open-air suites at El Mangrove created a real connection with nature. The first room of my suite was a sitting area with a floor-to-ceiling window replete with a screen that opened onto the mangroves. Sounds of nature floated into the space, making it feel like I was more outside than inside—the main living area being appointed with all the trimmings of a 5-star hotel.

Anne and I gathered poolside for a post-arrival cocktail and met a friendly couple from Colorado, who frequently stay at the hotel. I was amazed: with all the places in the world people could visit, why would they return to the same place time after time?

By the end of my stay, that question was answered.

Retreating into our cabañas, our cabaña attendant greeted us with a friendly, broad smile and asked what our pleasure would be. Under the shade of each cabaña’s canopy, we enjoyed the gentle sounds of wind, water, and birds while sipping our cocktails. Along with cocktails, we enjoyed a few appetizers from Matiss. This casual, open-air, beachfront restaurant features seafood specialties, a fresh catch of the day, ceviche, pokes, sandwiches, and grilled meats.

Deciding to be adventurous, we took off the following day for a 3-hour snorkeling excursion arranged through the hotel. Our first stop was a coral reef in the Gulf of Papagayo. We swam with a host of colorful tropical fish and a few turtles. Next, the captain learned that there were whales nearby, so we climbed back aboard the boat and sailed into the open sea. Not only did we witness majestic whales breaching near the boat, but when we went silent, we could hear their beautiful sounds as they communicated with each other, deep under our boat.

“SOUNDS OF NATURE FLOATED INTO THE SPACE , MAKING IT FEEL LIKE I WAS MORE OUTSIDE THAN INSIDE.”

A cruise followed that incredible experience to a tiny inlet where we watched howler monkeys play on the beach. Then we went for one last snorkel in the clear water and found giant eels hiding among the rough crevices of coral.

On the way back to El Mangroove, we listened to music and drank local Costa Rican beer, enjoying our morning’s epic adventure. When back on land, we feasted on a multi-course lunch of local delicacies, including Costa Rican versions of poke, sushi, tacos, and grilled fish flavored with local spices.

One of the underlining philosophies resonating throughout Costa Rica is preservation of its natural resources. The locals love and respect the land’s beauty and treat it with care. El Mangroove shares this care for nature. Through American Express Premier Hotel Programs, I learned about the Leave Your Leaves program through which guests can take part in conservation work with the Leave Your Leaves ritual in which guests plant their own trees. Of course, I had to do that. I named the tree Esperanza (Hope), and I will be notified when and where the tree is replanted in the forest.

That night for dinner, we dined at Makoko, El Mangroove’s award-winning restaurant. The restaurant poetically fuses local cuisine with contemporary dishes. The menu relies heavily on fresh produce and proteins available daily. The bar boasts a full array of signature cocktails and mocktails that incorporate indigenous fruits, herbs, and flowers.

On our last full day, we indulged at the spa. Bringing the essence of outside in, Bearth Spa offers serene outdoor relaxation terraces amid the mangroves, treatment suites, massage decks, and various therapies utilizing ingredients from the region, like seaweed, coffee, and tropical fruits. I enjoyed a deep-tissue massage with local essential oils. The aromatic scents of the oils mingled with the sweet tropical air, creating a sense of connection between me and Mother Nature. For a moment, nothing separated me from my surroundings.

At the end of our stay, Anne asked, “So, can you see why we love it here?” Yes, it was clear to me why El Mangroove was so beloved. While being there felt like being somewhere far from civilization, there was also a sense of peace and assurance that the attentive staff would provide every luxury I wanted.

Due to high demand by guests wanting to purchase residences at El Mangroove, the property now offers 3- and 4-bedroom private homes for sale. Find more information at elmangroove.net.

Vineyard Visions

Two wine hotels owned by top winemakers beckon.

BY BECCA HENSLEY

FOUND IN SOME OF EUROPE’S LESS TOURISTY WINE REGIONS, two characterful and inventive wine hotels—one in France and one in Italy—put you right in the middle of the vines. Owned by awardwinning winemaking families, each offers old buildings with soul; design-centric, refurbished rooms; gastronomy; wine tasting and wine touring opportunities; and pools for lazy repose. Best of all, you’ll be welcomed like family and, if you’re lucky, have the chance to meet the personalities behind the wine.

CASTELLO DI SEMIVICOLI, ABRUZZO, ITALY

In the Adriatic Sea, I’m skimming along Abruzzo’s Trabocchi Coast in a yacht with friends. Between dips in the salty water which gleams a lustrous shade of jade, we drink cold glasses of wine from one of Italy’s most revered wine houses, family-owned Masciarelli, and nibble bruschetta and other canapes made by the captain’s wife. Set between the Adriatic Sea and the more urbane Lazio region which holds Rome, wild, untrammelled Abruzzo is like no other place in Italy—perhaps on earth. It may be most famous for trabocchi, the unique fishing structures which give this coast its name.

Dating from ancient times, Abruzzo boasts history as far back as the original Italic tribes. The trabocchi were built to facilitate the ubiquitous livelihood of fishing. Wooden, spindly, and as otherworldly looking as an illustration from a Dr. Seuss book, these fishing houses (or machines) use a large net on a pulley plunged into the sea. I’ve heard locals call them giant spiders, and they do look a bit like futuristic insects. Erected along the water’s edge, many wooden trabocchi remain today, all family-owned for generations. Though still used for fishing, they usually double as casual, atmospheric seafood restaurants. That’s why our captain steers the boat to idle just below one.

As we peer upward, we watch a man fill a basket with something that promises to be delicious. Like a scene from a fairy tale, he uses the pulley to deliver the basket into our captain’s hands. Inside, we find little paper sacks filled with tiny, lightly fried fish and lemon slices. With Masciarelli’s Rosato Rosato Colline Teatine 2019, made with Montepulciano grapes, each bite tastes like a dream.

Back home at our castle, Castello di Semivicoli, located 20 miles from the Trabocchi Coast and actually a 17th century baronial home restored by the Masciarelli family to serve

as clever wine hotel, we recover by the pool. The hideaway, part of their wine empire and found among vineyards, citrus and pine trees, and olive groves and in the shadows of the Apennine peaks, sits on a hilltop with tremendous views. Offering just 11 rooms, each a blend of contemporary touches (think Philip Stark and Driade) and regal elements (antiques, old portraits), it has amenities that include a wine cellar with moody chestnut barrels (an ideal spot for tastings or just sitting with a book), a swimming pool, a wine bar (brimming with the Masciarelli labels), cooking classes, and 24/7 expert help and guidance in the art of organizing winery outings and tours to see Masciarelli’s 60 wine sites, all located amongst a span of 30 miles. The staff can also help with picnics, hiking trail information, boat trips (such as the one we took to the Trabocchi Coast), and paired wine dinners. Splurge on the Superior Suite, formerly the estate’s granary, for its colossal size and jaw-dropping, 360-degree views from 17 windows, showing vineyards, sea, mountains, and countryside.

castellodisemivicoli.com

PHOTOS: SOUFIANE-ZAIDI, FLORIAN VIDOT (INSET)

SO NEAR THE SEA THAT THE AIR SMELLS HOW OYSTERS TASTE...

CHÂTEAU L’HOSPITALET, LANGUEDOC, FRANCE

The first time I visited peerless winemaker Gérard Bertrand at Château L’Hospitalet in France’s maritime wine region, the Languedoc, I traipsed through vineyards and the region’s scrubby garrigue in muddy boots, following a dog. It was December, more than a decade ago, and I was on a truffle hunt, a festive event organized by the winemaker in honor of pruning season—and the continued success of this third generation winemaker’s burgeoning empire and decidedly soulful wines. At the time, the wine hotel, so much a part of the vineyards it felt as if itself had been planted, had a rustic, chic vibe, nothing fancy, but more of a backdrop that allowed the truly stellar wines and the gastronomy to speak for themselves. I loved the place. But when I returned in autumn for harvest this year, I found Château L’Hospitalet transformed. Although I didn’t think it could get better, the touchingly authentic haven had blossomed. It was like seeing a lovely child grown up to be a beautiful, successful, and captivating adult, a bedazzling force to be reckoned with. During my absence, not only had Gérard Bertrand’s wine realm increased to 17 estates, some 2,100 acres yielding award-winning red, white, and rosé wines from a variety of grapes; but, his concept of wine tourism, too, had bloomed and matured to evoke his huge heart, passion, and dedication to the terroir and his commitment to sharing and promoting art de vivre through wine within us all.

Today, oenophiles, visiting what Bertrand now calls Château L’Hospitalet Wine Resort Beach and Spa on the outskirts of the ancient city of Narbonne, so near the sea that the air smells how oysters taste, will experience an enhanced wine hotel, fecund with possibilities and rife with the promise of sensual satisfaction and enjoyment. Enlarged to offer 45 rooms and suites overall, each steps from the vineyards, the resort renovated its original rooms to be more airy and luxurious, then added a sister section called Suites Soleilla.

Found down a short, graveled path along the vines from the main complex, Soleilla holds 11 elegantly appointed suites, sleek bolt holes kitted out with natural textures and simple pleasures, not to mention large sliding doors that frame the vineyards, a touchable distance away. My room had a private, fenced garden that made napping outside feel as if I were sleeping in the vineyard, just as Suites Soleilla’s infinity pool made swimming laps feel like breaststroking among the grapes. Soleilla Spa, also located in this section of the resort, offers classic, results-driven treatments by Biologique Recherche.

With gastronomic restaurants (Art de Vivre and Chez Paule), a canny jazz bar, and a seasonal, convivial beach club (L’Hospitalet Beach) complete with deck chairs, tented ceilings, eye-catching art, and deejays, Château L’Hospitalet nevertheless keeps wine at its forefront. Think jeroboams of Gris Blanc rosé deftly poured for crowds or sought-after pairings with meals.

Wine experiences such as private tastings or vineyard tours (and sips of fine wine) at some of Bertrand’s various biodynamic estates await. Don’t miss an immersive outing to the birthplace of Clos du Temple, Bertrand’s unique, exquisite, $190-a-bottle rosé. Among Gaudi-like architectural digs that meld with the landscape and feature theatrical—even spiritual—interiors and jaw-dropping views of the vineyards below, you can tipple a glass of Clos du Temple, listen to tunes from a grand piano, and be mesmerized on every level. There’s even a private bedroom set away from the winery and tasting areas for intrepid dream seekers willing to reserve the entire property for an evening. chateau-hospitalet.com/en/

Launch Party at the St. Regis San Francisco

The Arts & Entertainment Issue

BY LAURIE JO MILLER FARR PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

La vita è bella! Spirits were high and sparkling wine flowed at the St. Regis Bar, venue for Haute Living, San Francisco magazine’s most recent launch party. The Arts & Entertainment Issue’s cover story featured an exclusive interview with world-famous tenor Andrea Bocelli. Considered the crown jewel of the Yerba Buena cultural corridor, the St. Regis San Francisco is the premier hotel for arts and culture enthusiasts.

Renowned for redefining luxury hospitality in San Francisco, the 5-star hotel at 125 Third Street recently completed an elegant update of its bar and lobby as well as guest rooms and meeting spaces as part of a property redesign. To celebrate the issue’s launch, St. Regis General Manager Roger Huldi welcomed guests, including former Mayor Willie Brown, Sonya Molodetskaya, Aubrey Brewster, Navid Armstrong, Liam Mayclem, Karen Clopton, Joel Goodrich, Elaine Mellis, Orkut Buyokkokten.

Christopher Duffy and Altana Duffy

Carrie Ann Plank, Fati Farmanfarmaian, and Elaine Melli

Navid Armstrong and Jeremy Gallaher

Willie Brown and Liam Mayclem

Karen Clopton and Lillian Wagner

Monetta White, Willie Brown, Sonya Molodetskaya, Robin Nielsen, Pernella Sommerville, and Charles Baker III

Aubrey Brewster and Roger Huldi

Liam Mayclem and Olivia Decker

Sonya Molodetskaya

Mark Calvano, Olivia Decker, Jorge Maumer, Heidi Pettit, and Joel Goodrich

Laurie Jo Miller Farr and Noël Burgess

Charles Baker III, Pablo Fischer, Navid Armstrong, Orkut Buyukkokten, and Robin Nielsen

Cheriann Glab and Vernon Applegate

Aubrey Brewster and Dr. Edward Winger host Mayor London Breed’s Birthday

BY ROBERT RICHARDS PHOTOS DREW ALTIZER

On August 10, 2022, the who’s who of San Francisco dressed in elegant cocktail attire as they celebrated San Francisco Mayor London Breed’s 48th birthday at Neiman Marcus’ exclusively posh and intimate Penthouse on 5. Famed party host Aubrey Brewster (Salonnières “America’s Top 100 Party Hosts” as featured in Town & Country Magazine) and his husband, Dr. Edward Winger, hosted the celebration.

Guests noshed on delectable hors d’oeuvres specially curated for the occasion by the executive chef the Rotunda, Erik Harrelson, and sipped on fine wine and Henriot champagne. In typical Aubrey Bewster style, the party featured a “help yourself” soft-serve ice cream sundae bar featuring Mayor Breed’s favorite flavor, strawberry, complete with San Francisco’s very own Ghirardelli sundae toppings.

Red dahlias and peonies in silver ceramic vases adorned the tables to compliment Breed’s stunning vermillion and silver silk dress.

Among Mayor London Breed’s 70 birthday party revelers were former San Francisco Mayor Willie Brown, Jr.; candidate for California State Controller and former president of the San Francisco Board of Supervisors representing District 10, Malia Cohen; ABC7’s Carolyn Tyler (retired); Haute Living, San Francisco’s very own editor-in-chief, Teresa Rodriguez; Remynt founder and chair of SFMTA, Gwyneth Borden; Union Square Alliance president, Marisa Rodriguez; fashion designer Vasily Vein; Brenda Wright; socialites Clara Shayevich, Farah Makras, Navid Armstrong, and luxury real estate agent (and Bravo’s “A-List San Francisco”) Joel Goodrich. “Aubrey’s level of production value is incredible, always the party of the moment!” stated Goodrich.

“We were delighted that Aubrey and Ed chose us (Neiman Marcus, SF) as the venue to host the mayor’s birthday soiree, a wonderful evening of old and new friends alike enjoying Mayor Breed’s company. Aubrey always creates a memorable moment, and I was honored to be invited,” said Neiman Marcus SF vice president/general manager Mark Sullivan of the evening.

Brewster served the mayor and her guests a custom lemon birthday cake with raspberry filling and Swiss vanilla buttercream encased in marzipan from San Francisco’s iconic bakery, Victoria Pastry of North Beach, as guests toasted the birthday girl.

Aubrey Brewster, Mayor London Breed, Dr. Edward Winger

Mayor Breed’s Birthday Cake from Victoria Pastry SF

Socialite, Farah Makras, Mayor London Breed, CA State Controller candidate, Malia Cohen

Carolyn Tyler, Vicki L. Hughes, Gwyneth Borden, Karen Clopton

Carolyn Tyler and Gary Love

Fashion designer, Vasily Vein and Mayor Willie Brown Jr.

Hosts Dr. Edward Winger & Aubrey Brewster, Mayor London Breed, Neiman Marcus GMVP Mark Sullivan

Aubrey Brewster, Clara Shayevich, Joel Goodrich

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE AND LEAGUE TO SAVE LAKE TAHOE HOST ANNUAL SUMMER FASHION SHOW WITH OSCAR DE LA RENTA

On Saturday, August 6, Saks Fifth Avenue and the League to Save Lake Tahoe hosted their annual benefit fashion show and luncheon featuring an exclusive first look at the Oscar de la Renta Pre-Spring 2023 collection, designed by co-creative directors Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia. This year, the storied event raised $1.3 million for the preservation of Lake Tahoe during its full-scale runway fashion show and elegant luncheon held at the Schumacher family home on Lake Tahoe’s iconic shoreline.

The annual fashion show tradition dates back to 1969, when designer Bill Blass began showing his collection on a plywood runway with barefoot models to the event’s first 100 guests. In 1999, Bill Blass handed the baton to the legendary Oscar de la Renta, who has been the featured designer ever since. Now in its 53rd year, the fashion show has evolved into a widely anticipated fundraiser for the League to Save Lake Tahoe, resulting in over $22 million in funds raised to preserve the beauty, environmental health, and worldrenowned clarity of Lake Tahoe.

“The funds raised during the premier of Oscar de la Renta’s stunning Pre-Spring 2023 collection will support the League to Save Lake Tahoe’s 65-year mission to protect the health and beauty of the Lake Tahoe Basin. Thanks to the invaluable partnership with Saks Fifth Avenue, this annual event has united fashion and environmental conservation. This will help ‘Keep Tahoe Blue’ for generations to come,” notes Kristin Keane of the League to Save Lake Tahoe.

Joel Goodrich

Roman Gronkowski and Barbara Brown

The 2022 Fashion Show Committee: Riccardo Benavides, Krista Giovara, Heidi Carey, Jessica Hickingbotham, Barbara Brown, Bob Damaschino, and Lindsay McConnon

Danielle Erikson, and Mike Erikson

Eliza Bolen, Fernando Garcia, Laura Kim, and Alex Bolen

Komal Shah and Anna Chung

Jessica Hickingbotham, Barbara Brown, and Krista Giovara

Komal Shah, Barbara Brown, and Carolyn Chang

PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

All Rise for the Great Fall Show

BY TERESA RODRIGUEZ PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

After a 2-year pause, the San Francisco Fall Show returned to the beloved Fort Mason Center for the Fall Show’s 40th anniversary. The show’s spectacular opening night gala benefited the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco (FAMSF).

FAMSF manages the Legion of Honor in Lincoln Park and the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park. The museums showcase priceless collections of American art from the 17th through the 20th centuries, textile arts, the art of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas. In addition, their collections include European decorative arts and paintings, ancient art, and one of the country’s largest collections of prints and drawings.

San Francisco Fall Show Chair Suzanne Tucker, the driving force behind this partnership, declares: “I am delighted the show gala will be supporting our beloved museums and honored to be working with the extraordinary FAMSF team. This new relationship is written in the stars—a natural synergy between the preeminent antiques and art fair on the West Coast and the FAMSF world class museums. This collaboration will elevate and enhance the outreach of both organizations, resulting in an unparalleled celebration of art, antiques, and design.”

The festivities kicked off on October 12, and 1,400 guests enjoyed the fantastic showcase of rare artwork, stunning antiques, and jaw-dropping interior design creations.

Alexis Traina and Trevor Traina

Dede Wilsey, Jack Calhoun, and Trent Norris

Dominic Evans-Freke, Riccardo Benavides, Mary Beth Shimmon, Rachel Cecil Gurney, and David Shimmon

Allison Speer and Alex Papachristidis

Gioi Tran and Robert Beadle

Betty Yu and Matt Lituchy

Olivia Hsu Decker and Riccardo Benavides

Stanlee Gatti, Dede Wilsey, Yurie Pascarella, and Carl Pascarella

Suzanne Tucker, Stanlee Gatti, and Denise Hale

Mill Valley Film Festival

45 years of celebrating cinema

BY NOËL BURGESS PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

The Mill Valley Film Festival (MVFF), presented by the California Film Institute, came back strong for its 45th year with Oscar-caliber performances, belly-grabbing comedies, and dramas that forced viewers to think. After two years of restrictive COVID protocols, Marin County locals and avid cinephiles gathered in person at the festival’s event locations in San Rafael, Mill Valley, San Francisco, and Berkeley.

Key factors that set the Mill Valley Film Festival apart from those in Cannes, Toronto, and Telluride include stars like Leslie Odom, Jr., Kate Hudson, Frances McDormand, and others who make an appearance because of the proximity to Los Angeles. MVFF’s timing—October 6 through 16—is important for actors looking to be top-of-mind for Oscar voters receiving ballots soon after the festival. Perhaps the most important factor is its focus on diversity, demonstrated this year with half of the films being led by women. Whatever your reason(s), one dynamic is common among attendees: their love for cinema!

A few films from the festival to check out this fall and winter on various streaming services or a big screen near you:

• Till: Oscar buzz surrounds this recounting of the brutal victimization of Emmett Till through the experience of his mother, Mamie Till Mobley.

• The Whale: Regret, redemption, and religion combine in this film about a morbidly obese, grief-stricken, gay man who teaches an online writing course from his couch in Idaho.

• Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery: Daniel Craig returns as Inspector Benoit Blanc in this classic whodunit with perfectly timed cameos, hilarious reveals, and an underlying commentary on the rich and privileged.

• Good Nurse: This 2-hour thriller is based on the true story of Charles Cullen, played by Eddie Redmayne, the nurse who murdered dozens of patients at several hospitals in Pennsylvania and New Jersey.

ABOUT MVFF

Since founding the Mill Valley Film Festival in 1977, Mark Fishkin has shepherded this 11-day, internationally acclaimed cinema event presenting a wide variety of new films from around the world in an engaged, community setting. The festival has an impressive track record of launching new films and new filmmakers, and has earned a reputation as a filmmakers’ festival by celebrating the best in American independent and foreign films, alongside high-profile and prestigious award contenders.

ABOUT THE CALIFORNIA FILM INSTITUTE

The nonprofit California Film Institute celebrates and promotes film as art and education through the presentation of the Mill Valley Film Festival and year-round exhibitions at the Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center, film distribution by CFI Releasing, and building the next generation of filmmakers and audiences through the CFI Education program.

For more information www.cafilm.org or (415) 383-5256.

Glass Onion by Tommy Lau

Glass Onion byTommy Lau

The Whale Good Nurse

Chinonye Chukwu in Till

Till byTommyLau

Famed Designer Naeem Khan Graces Neiman Marcus with His Presences at Exclusive Dinner

BY TERESA RODRIGUEZ

PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

Mark Sullivan, the general manager of Neiman Marcus San Francisco, and Komal Shah hosted an extraordinary dinner for Naeem Khan, showcasing his Spring 2023 collection on Wednesday, September 28. The guests, including Allison Speer, Karen Caldwell, and Barbara Brown, were delighted to see the collection just two weeks after its debut at New York Fashion Week. “Fashion, art, and culture are synonymous with San Francisco. I am so happy to be here with my friends celebrating life,” shared the legendary designer, as he toasted the cheerful guests.

Guests enjoyed cocktail hour with models wearing exquisite gowns and colorful resort wear from Khan’s latest collection. During dinner, Shah quizzed him on some of his fondest memories in the fashion business, including his time working for Halston during the heyday of Studio 54.

Naeem Khan

Alison Mundy, Martha Hertelendy, Midori Antevy, and Patrice Wilbur

Karen Caldwell, Holly Baxter, and Caitlin Anderson

Mark Sullivan, Komal Shah, and Naeem Khan

Pam Preston and Jack Preston

Lisa Zanze and Kim Dempster

Barbara Brown, Komal Shah, and Jane Mudge

Marissa Mayer and Zack Bogue host The Premiere of Nuclear by Oliver Stone

PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

A private screening of Oliver Stone’s Nuclear: Time to Look Again debuted at The Guild Theater in Menlo Park. The screening hosted Marissa Mayer and Zachary Bogue, the film’s executive producer. VIP guests such as executive producer Roksana Ciurysek-Gedir, Omid and Gisel Kordestani, Noosheen Hashemi and Zod Nazem, Michael and Xochi Birch, David and Laura Krane, Tony and Mary Conrad, and Paul and April Buchheit were in attendance. Guests enjoyed a Q&A with Oliver Stone after the screening.

Zachary Bogue, Oliver Stone, and Marissa Mayer

Michael and Xochi Birch

Oliver Stone, Zachary Bogue on stage

Omid Kordestani

Gisel Kordestani

Opera Ball’s Spectacular Centennial Celebration Takes the City by Storm

PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

SAN FRANCISCO OPERA’S 100TH SEASON OPENED ON SEPTEMBER 9, 2022, with the year’s most anticipated event. Guest from around the world attended the Opera Ball: The Centennial Celebration, a benefit gala at City Hall coproduced by San Francisco Opera and San Francisco Opera Guild. The esteemed co-chairs, Maryam Muduroglu and Jack Calhoun, worked diligently to create an event that captured the glory and history of the Opera’s 100th anniversary. On the red carpet, guests were entertained by musicians and flappers reminiscent of the 1920s. Then, guests were swept away by the grandeur of City Hall, resplendent with towers of colorful flowers and dramatic feathers.

Muduroglu shared, “As I stood at the top of the steps with Jack greeting hundreds of guests entering the City Hall, I could not stop my feelings of excitement and pride to see such a wide-based Bay Area community come together for this once-in-a-lifetime celebratory event in our beautiful city. We are truly grateful for the generosity of our arts supporters as we continue our efforts for the future of opera and music education. I encourage all to join us for at least one of this season’s operas. It is invigorating.”

The opening night concert featured Eun Sun Kim conducting the San Francisco Opera’s orchestra and soloists Nadine Sierra, Michael Fabiano, Pene Pati, and Lucas Meachem. Post-show, guests were invited back to City Hall, which was transformed into a modern nightclub on the south end replete with deejay and mixed drinks. Those who preferred more traditional music enjoyed a big band in the north annex. Guests danced the night away in their couture gowns, bedazzled dresses, and dapper tuxedos.

“I am inspired by the San Francisco community showing up in such a spectacular way to celebrate the 100th year of SF Opera. The night was a tremendous success, and everyone had a great time late into the night. It was an honor to co-host this special event that supports the work of our great opera company,” said Calhoun.

Afsaneh Akhtari and Clara Shayevich

Haute Living publisher

Olivia Hsu Decker and Karen Caldwell

Jeremy Gallaher and Jerome Guillen

Co-chairs Jack Calhoun and Maryam

Dede Wilsey and London Breed Yurie Pascarella, Tamara Rojo, Dede Wilsey, Carl Pascarella, and Danielle St Germain-Gordon

Ahmet Kusoglu, Cristin Szarek, and Joshua Szarek

Nora Quattrin, Richard Livermore, Celeste Lee Bobroff, Courtney Labe, Maryam Muduroglu, Jack Calhoun, and Cynthia Livermore

Bentley Napa Valley Test Drive Retreat

A Remarkable Experience Beyond Cars

BY OLIVIA DECKER

BENTLEY MOTORS HOSTED A PERSONALIZED RETREAT THAT INCLUDED TEST driving a fleet of new Bentayga EWB SUVs with a beautiful autumn harvest experience in Napa Valley’s wine country. Even though I have been an owner of a 2007 Bentley Flying Spur for many years and attended many Bentley events at Monterey Car Week in Pebble Beach, I was curious to see how the new Bentayga performed. It was a genuinely remarkable, luxurious experience, and I was incredibly impressed by the cars’ high performance and elegant features.

The trip began with a private luncheon at Sessions in The Presidio. The restaurant is known for the freshly grown, farm-to-table vegetables and fine estate wines from George Lucas’ Skywalker Ranch. Lunch was followed by a Bentley test drive to the beautiful, newly opened Auberge Hotel at Stanly Ranch in Napa Valley. After checking in, we were introduced to the local mixologist, Jake Thomas, who gave us a private lesson on the art of crafting botanical libations in the vineyards. He is a Ph.D. candidate in physics at Stanford University and has been curating craft cocktails for over seven years. He’s known for working with unique ingredients such as syrups, flavors, and garnishes from the plants harvested from the farm, forest, and orchards at the ranch and in Napa Valley.

The Bentley team thought of everything. Before departing the following morning, we were treated to a private yoga session, complete with custom Bentley yoga mats to take home.

The trip’s highlight was the opportunity for intimate conversation over dinner with Bentley Motors’ CEO of Americas, Christophe Georges, on the luxury travel market as it pertains to innovation in the luxury auto sector, specifically in the Bay Area. He spoke about Bentley’s ongoing Beyond100 path to hybridization and electrification by 2026. A native of France, Georges seems an unlikely leader of a legendary British luxury car brand owned by a German company.

However, he has been a great leader and marketer of Bentley for over 20 years, spearheading 21st-century technology and opening new markets by pioneering the make’s dynamic Bentayga and bespoke Batur models.

The overnight stay at Stanley Ranch and the chauffeured trip back to San Francisco in a Bentley Bentayga EWB were both relaxing and luxurious, the car featuring reclining, airline-style seats in the rear. The driving experience included the three Bentayga EWB specifications.

The new Bentayga EWB offers an interior environment unlike any other ultraluxury SUV on the market. Far more than just a luxury SUV with an extended wheelbase, it is a showcase of advanced technology designed to enhance the sense of well-being for drivers and passengers. Every interaction with the cabin is enhanced, from seats that can proactively monitor and improve the comfort of their occupants to stunning lighting that combines the best of Bentley’s craftsmanship and innovation. However, there is more to the new Bentayga EWB than a sublime passenger experience. Drivers may expect the effortless power that exemplifies every Bentley, underpinned by the latest chassis technology and digital connectivity.

With a wealth of innovative features that boost the comfort of its occupants, the Bentayga EWB Azure sets new standards in comfort. For rear seat passengers, it combines generous space with astonishing craft and design. For the driver, it pairs Bentley’s latest powertrain technology with a cutting-edge chassis system and numerous driver assistance features to make daily driving effortless. The vehicle is as luxurious for the driver as it is for its passengers.

I know I keep saying it, but the Bentley Bentayga EWB truly is the best high-end SUV on the road. After this intimate and informative experience, I am now strongly considering upgrading to this luxurious motorcar.

Bentyga EWBs for test drive retreat Bentley Bentaga EWB Azure interior

Art of Crafting Botanical Libations class

Dinner at Stanly Ranch with Christophe Georges

Christophe Georges with Continental GT - Red Dragon II

San Francisco Symphony’s Opening Night Gala 2022

A midsummer night’s dream come true

PHOTOGRAPHY DREW ALTIZER

ON FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, ESA-PEKKA SALONEN AND THE SAN FRANCISCO Symphony kicked off the Symphony’s 111th season and Salonen’s third season as music director with a celebratory Opening Night Gala and performance of Felix Mendelssohn’s jovial music to A Midsummer Night’s Dream, interspersed with scenes from Shakespeare’s play featuring San Francisco’s African-American Shakespeare Company.

The cast included AASC Artistic Director L. Peter Callender, assistant artistic director Devin Cunningham, Emmy-nominated This Is Us actor Chris Sullivan, actress Lisa Vroman, artistic director and co-founder of the San Francisco Bay Area Theatre Company Rodney Jackson, and Bay Area community figures, including San Francisco Chronicle’s arts and culture writer Tony Bravo, TheatreWorks’ new executive director Debbie Chinn, City of San Francisco’s Director of Commissions and Community Relations Tyra Fennell, KNTV and executive director of the California Arts Council Jonathan Moscone, as well as sopranos Anne-Marie MacIntosh and Elisa Sunshine.

Co-chaired by Navid Armstrong and Jeremy Gallaher, the Opening Night Gala celebrations began with a spectacular blue carpet welcome and guests donned in dramatic gowns and tuxedos, all on-point with a Shakespearian fantasy.

“It was truly a magical evening, full of whimsy, beauty, and sonic and visual delights. Esa-Pekka Salonen and the San Francisco Symphony, along with the African-American Shakespeare Company, treated us to the most imaginative rendition of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, setting the tone for the enchanting and joyous atmosphere of the after-party! It was an honor to co-chair this event with Jeremy and share the beautiful result of months of preparation with our friends and community,” shares Navid Armstrong

The performance was followed by multi-course dinners for sponsors and donors and a lively, outdoor after-party where guests were greeted by performers from Gregangelo’s Velocity Circus. After-party guests nibbled on a complimentary array of delicacies and drinks served by popular San Francisco establishments and enjoyed live music entertainment by DJ Masonic (Mason Bates) and SF Symphony musicians.

Jeremy Gallaher tells us, “This Opening Night Gala was one for the books! It’s always amazing to see an event come together from beginning to end and to see your vision expressed in such a beautiful way. From the inspired performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream to Blueprint’s dreamy décor, we were immersed in a world of creativity, imagination, and celebration. Most importantly, the funds raised at the event benefit the Symphony’s many wonderful educational and community programs!”

Jerome Guillen, Priscilla Geeslin, Navid Armstrong, Jeremy Gallaher, and Matthew Spivey

from top left: Barbro Osher and Bernard Osher; Dana Trejillo, David Trejillo, Julie Liegl, Jeremy Liegl, Peter Christodoulo, Amy Christodoulo, Tom Huntoon, Charlotte Haas Prime, and Josh Prime; Performers; Matthew Shilvock and Maryam Muduroglu; Dagmar Dolby and Roselyne Swig; Tiffany Chan, Gorretti Lo Lui, Jerome Dodson, Thao Dodson, Matthew Spivey, Esa-Pekka Salonen, and Eliza Cash; Matthew Spivey, Priscilla Geeslin, and Esa-Pekka Salonen

Clockwise

Monaco Yacht Show 2022 and Superyacht

BY OLIVIA DECKER

THE MONACO YACHT SHOW IS THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS YACHTING show in the world with the biggest and best in the yachting industry showcasing their latest creations and services. The 2022 show ran from September 28 to October 1 at Port Hercule, Monaco with an estimated 30,000 visitors. The yachts presented at this year’s show are collectively worth over 4.5 billion euros.

The annual Monaco Yacht Show has become an emblematic event for private visitors who come for the outstanding concentration of superyachts available for purchase or charter and to meet the industry experts in Monaco’s festive and glamorous ambiance. Although superyachts are the focus of attraction, the attendees can visit a wide selection of builders, designers, service providers, brokers, and yacht equipment manufacturers and tour yachts on display for sale or for charter. There are also luxury cars, helicopters, private jets, speedboats, tenders, personalized submarines, and lots of parties hosted by yacht builders, owners, brokers, charter companies, and designers. This year, I attended a lavish James Bond Sky Fall -themed party at the Yacht Club de Monaco, hosted by IGY Marinas. The song and dance by four sexy ladies was incredibly entertaining. Unfortunately, I could not attend the most popular Lürssen party.

A car deck exhibited classic luxury cars coveted by collectors. After all, luxury yachts and luxury cars go hand in hand for same clientele. Companies with products and services catering to superyacht customers’ lifestyles also showcased exhibits offering watches, hotels, and wealth management. This year’s show also featured a new exhibition area dedicated to sustainable yachting solutions.

The evening before the yacht show, September 27, the Monaco Yacht Summit held a panel of 14 experts who shared their expertise regarding purchasing, chartering, building, refitting, new destinations, and other subjects. Stewart Campbell, editor in-chief of Boat International Media, and Derek Munro, owner’s representative for Divergent Yachting hosted the panel. Topics included industry trends in new technology, new designs, new destinations, new functions, etc. The new build or purchase panel’s experts included Michael Berman, sales director of Lurssen; Andrew Charlier, co-head and partner of HFW; and naval architect Espen Oeino of Espen Oeino International.

PHOTOS: GUILLAUME PLISSON

The Ahpo, informal lounge on the owner’s deck

The top 10 largest yachts presented at the show this year were:

• 115.1-meter Lürssen Ahpo

• 90.1-meter Lürssen Phoenix ll

• 89-meter Amels Here Comes the Sun

• 88-meter Golden Yachts Shipyard Project X

• 85.65-meter Abeking & Rasmussen B2

• 85.01-meter Akyacht Victorious

• 78-meter Amels Energy

• 74.5-meter Abeking & Rasmussen Elandess

• 73.15-meter Delta Marine Laurel

• 72.2-meter Delta Marine Albatross

THE AHPO

I took a comprehensive tour of the biggest and newest yacht, the Ahpo, guided by a representative from Moran Yacht & Ship, the company involved from contract to delivery in the creation of the 115-metre vessel which was the brokerage firm’s 61st new build project. Moran is also representing it for charter.

I have been attending the Monaco Yacht Show for over 15 years and have visited dozens of megayachts there. Rarely has a yacht left me as speechlessly impressed as the Ahpo. This elegant yacht features long, sweeping exterior lines and half-moon windows. With its beautiful, artistically designed interior, the Ahpo is an outstanding representation of her owner’s refined style and taste. The Ahpo reunited the owner, Italian design firm Nuvolari-Lenard, with the Lürssen shipyard and Moran Yacht & Ship, the same team that worked on the creation of the owner’s former yacht, the 86-meter Quattroelle, delivered in 2013. I visited that ship at the Monaco Yacht Show, too. Nearly double the size of Quattroelle, Ahpo, at 5,257 gross tons, is much more complex with designs nspired by nature and exquisitely intricate.

The newest masterpiece of the Lürssen shipyard and NuvolariLenard, Ahpo is named after the Chinese word, in the Hakka dialect, which means grandmother. Ahpo was a birthday gift delivered to the

owner’s mother for her 89th birthday in December 2021. The elegant interior with exotic and deluxe Asian materials, such as a master bed inlaid with mother of pearl in Japanese maple leaf-patterns, reflects the owner’s taste. The beautifully designed spaces testify to the amazing team, with extensive experience in superyachts, who created such beauty and perfection.

ROOMS AND AMENITY FEATURES

Luxury amenities on the Ahpo include an interior spa with a hot tub and relaxation area. Its world class gym on the sky lounge deck is more spacious and luxurious than a 5-star hotel gym. It features every sort of exercise machine imaginable: equipment by Technogym, bikes by Peloton, and custom-made dumbbells by Gym Marine. The gym and spa also feature lacquer furniture, attractive synthetic flooring, and televisions hidden behind mirrors.

The side decks on the sky lounge deck are exceptionally wide like a promenade and 100 meters all around, allowing the owners and their guests to take walks in the open air. The sky lounge deck also has an 8-meter pool with counter-current system and a separate Jacuzzi® hot tub on one side of the pool and a sun pad on the other side.

The panoramic salon, forward on the sky lounge deck, provides incredible views over the bow. A beautiful pair of large, matching, curved white sofas, a pair of matching coffee tables, and a huge crystal chandelier dress up this room. The salon is adjacent to owner’s duplex suite below and to which it is connected by a private grand staircase.

Sliding and folding glass doors expose or protect the winter garden from the elements. The winter garden provides space for entertaining and family gatherings. A 16-seat dining table surrounded by greenery and rattan furnishings is perfect for hosting casual meals.

Natural light floods the owner’s deck, an elegant and understated space for relaxation. A potted red maple tree inside flanks the entrance corridor leading to the staircase and the salon above. The

The Ahpo

owner’s deck boasts two large semicircles of informal sofas providing plenty of space for family and friends to relax and enjoy the views.

The entrance to the owner’s suite has two glass columns engraved with maple leaves. The owner’s bedroom features two reclining sofas flanking either side of the bed and a custom-designed breakfast table in tinted lacewood and mother of pearl. The bed’s headboard matches the room’s décor of maple leaves and bluebirds. In her bathroom and dressing room, pink marble, pink onyx with onyx viola, and onyx fantastico complement each other. Shower mosaics replicate a cherry tree with elegant blossoms and birds. The vanity displays an intricate combination of different shades of sycamore in various pinks and ivories with rose gold and champagne gold metal inlays. The opulent master bath and dressing room combine honey onyx and black Portoro marble. The shower’s mosaic wall was inspired by Klimt’s paintings. The bathroom’s focal points are the Venetian glass furniture from Murano and an impressive, freestanding tub in black and gold with a matching chandelier.

The formal dining room on the main deck features a custom dining table made by List and seating 18. Its glass top was created by DKT Artworks, using the French technique of verre églomisé with a theme of water lilies. The chandelier and doors repeat the water lily theme. The room’s oval ceiling and shape echo that theme. The dining table sits on an oval “carpet” of sodalite and azul macaubas surrounded by a laminated elmwood floor. Sliding glass doors on each side open onto the side decks and balconies.

The formal salon features a self-playing Steinway piano, handcrafted balustrade in bronze and engraved glass, large sofas,

and a corner bar. With the aft sliding doors open, the salon is connected to the aft deck. The impressive staircase in the center of the room takes guests down to the large wellness deck below, creating an expansive space for business, entertaining, and relaxation.

The Beach Club Spa, a 205-square meter wellness area on the lower deck, is the first place guests see when arriving by boat. When the ship is at anchor, the space serves as a private living room at water level with contemporary sofa seating and coffee table. Stepping from the swim platform through the transom door, a large bamboo grove encased in backlit frosted glass forms a stunning backdrop to a stylish bar. A Jacuzzi with intricate mosaic patterns sits in the center of the room. The private massage room and beauty salon replicate the bamboo imagery on hand-painted wallpaper by the artists of renowned wallpaper company de Gournay. On the spa’s ceiling, huge leaves made of walnut are illuminated with borders of LED lighting. Teak stripes undulate behind a plunge pool with a waterfall. The wellness space also includes a Turkish hammam with blue mosaics by Sicis and a fountain in ivory onyx and mosaics. Fiber optics in the ceiling create shining stars. Azul macaubas and sodalite stones repeat throughout the yacht, including on the mullions. Directly opposite the hammam is a large, state-of-the-art, curvaceous sauna with Himalayan salt bricks inserted into its walls.

The 12-seat cinema is decorated with portraits of the owner’s three favorite actors—Dorothy Dandridge, Sidney Poitier, and Sammy Davis, Jr.—black and white fabric mosaics, and a starry ceiling.

There are two guests suites on the owner’s deck, decorated in pink and green for the owner’s twin daughters. Their deluxe

PHOTO:

The Ahpo’s Beach Club Spa

bathrooms feature handmade metal bathtubs from Catchpole & Rye, mosaics inspired by Gustav Klimt, and crystal chandeliers by Lasvit in the style of Baccarat. Gingko leaves and rolltop baths are similar to the master bathrooms.

My favorite room is the spacious, informal lounge on the owner’s deck with a striking latticed wood pattern. Three white, curved sofas and three gorgeous oval coffee tables create a focal entertainment space under a gigantic crystal chandelier. A bespoke bar and a game table on each side of the entry area entertain guests of all ages.

One can’t help but notice the artistic design of the grand spiral staircase. The stunning, intricate bronze balustrade represents an olive tree rising to the sky through several decks. It’s surrounded by cranes and nature-themed décor. A bas-relief adorns the staircase wall over five decks, each with its own color theme. The staircase wraps around an elliptical sculpture with a central column supporting delicate feathers handmade of crystal. The steps feature backlit Calcutta marble, leather, and Tai Ping silk carpeting.

While conventionally powered, the yacht boasts advanced systems, such as super-efficient HUG after-treatment filters complementing the now mandatory SCR system, a dynamic positioning system, controllable pitch propellers for precise maneuvering at low speed, and four massive Quantum fins. Its heat recovery system efficiently redirects heat generated by the engines and the generators’ normal operation to warm the swimming pool, spa pool, and other water systems. Amazing noise insulation yields library-quiet sound levels in the guest areas.

The Ahpo is very close to perfect, from its superlative guest areas to its sizeable crew spaces and an engine room so clean you can eat off the floor. The engine room is visible through a glass corridor leading from the Beach Club Spa to the guest lobby and lift. Up to 53 people can share space on the Ahpo, including two helicopter pilots. There is a gym and a spacious lounge that can accommodate all crew. The team of Nuvolari-Lenard, with Valantina Zannier as the creative designer, is behind the nature-inspired, exquisitely intricate interior created with the owners.

Luckily for the world’s yachting enthusiasts, the Ahpo is now available for charter in the Caribbean this winter and in the Mediterranean in the summer. This stunning superyacht accommodates up to 16 guests in eight immense staterooms. In addition, the ship has four staff cabins for security, a nanny, or other auxiliary staff. Her professional crew of 36 will cater to your every need. The forward helideck is commercially compliant and available for use during charter for guests’ convenient arrival and departure. With generous accommodations and a wide selection of amenities, the magnificent Ahpo is perfect for a family yacht charter. Accommodating 16 guests, the charter rate is 2.5 million euros per week.

The Ahpo, gold-bath

The Ahpo, master cabin

The Ahpo, bar

The Ahpo, hallway

The Ahpo, dining room on owner’s deck level

The Ahpo, turkish hammam

Where the road to the Concours starts — Molsheim, France — the home of the Bugatti family, the 1909 birthplace of the brand, and the modern headquarters of the company.

PHOTO: BUGATTI

A CloseUp of 2022 Monterey Car Week at Pebble Beach and Carmel

BY TIM LAPPEN

I’VE BEEN A CAR NUT SINCE CHILDHOOD, SO ATTENDING MONTEREY Car Week which culminates at the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance on the 18th fairway of the famed golf course has been a dream trip. This year’s dream journey, brought to me by Land Rover, started on Wednesday morning when I was handed the keys to a new Land Rover Discovery. I immediately took off for the wilds of downtown Monterey, where it fit in perfectly among the Ferraris, Astons, Audis, and their like as well as the Packards, Talbots, and more exotic cars of yesteryear. Next stop: the Bonhams auction tent in a field next to The Quail Lodge in Carmel Valley to peruse the cars slated to be sold over the next few days. My favorite was a bright red 1956 Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing Coupe being sold by the original owner’s daughter.

Thursday brought more delights. I drove the Discovery to the Range Rover House, an absolutely incredible private home serving as Range Rover’s “base camp” (“base mansion” would be more accurate) right on the cliff overlooking a charming, rocky cove in the Carmel Highlands area. Then it was time to take the Discovery through Big Sur and on to the Ventana Resort for a private lunch in the glass house which sports incredible views from an intimate patio. Following lunch, I swapped back to the Land Rover, a sumptuous vehicle that felt like the RollsRoyce Cullinan’s cousin, it was so luxurious and quiet.

That evening I attended the Land Rover dinner party and the unveiling of the Range Rover SV Carmel Edition (an ultra-exclusive model—only 66 will be made—with a price tag of $345,000). Land Rover pledged some of the proceeds to support the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. Suffice it to say that the four seats in this cabin are the most opulent ever seen in a Range Rover and include comforts such as special leather, white ceramic controls, fold-out workstations, and more.

Thursday’s events included the auction previews for Goodings, Bonhams, and RM Sothebys; previews of the DeLorean Alpha V, Czinger21C, and V Max; the unveiling of the Lexus Electrified Sports Concept; the Bentley media preview; and the Maserati MC-20, GT, and Grecale SUV viewing at the Maserati mansion.

Friday was the first full car day, starting with The Quail, the quintessential private car party held annually at The Quail Lodge in Carmel Valley on an incredible golf course owned and operated by Peninsula Hotels group. The cars are spread out, and each manufacturer has a stand or stage. A press pass allows entry long before the general public, so that was a great time to conduct interviews. I started with the father and son team of Kevin and Lukas Czinger to talk about their amazing 21C and 21C V Max cars. The two models are completely built with 3D printers! Their self-made company includes three lines of business: 1) design software for optimization, 2) prototyping industry, and 3) assembly and production. One can tell that they started as a tech company, not a car company, and have segued. They now make a fully printed subframe for Aston Martin. Their current model offerings are the V Max, the 21C, and the Hyper GT. The first two offer seating for two, with the single passenger directly behind the driver. The Hyper GT is a 4-seat coupe. Watch for big things from this high-tech family.

The Rolls-Royce stand at The Quail presented the new Phantom Series II. What a car! Rolling luxury and elegance together, the newest RR was a sight to behold. The first thing one notices is that the famous “Parthenon” grille now is illuminated (as if it needed to be more noticeable). With new headlights, the nose is even more imposing. The wheels are different now, sporting discs more reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties than today’s bespoke spokes. The interior offers more options now, including cloth seating areas. The car really looks like the interior was designed and created on Saville Row, as the materials and finishes resemble a very fine suit more than an automotive interior.

Lamborghini’s stand displayed the new Urus S which joins the Performante in the Urus stable. With a slight “hp bump” (16 more), the performance metrics remain mostly unchanged, but the exhaust sound is a little more distinctive. It’s hard to believe that Lamborghini could pack more testosterone into their sports ute, but they have.

At my next stop at the opulent Hispano Suiza stand, I met CEO Sergio Martinez Campos and saw the all-new offering from this Spanish legend. “Hispano Suiza” literally translates to “Hispanic Swiss” in a nod to the company’s founding, as they had factories in both Spain and Switzerland. The same family has run the company since its founding in 1904, and they just unveiled the Carmen Boulogne, an all-electric vehicle with a motor at each wheel and a body that is sculptural and imposing at the same time. The first one produced—a bright purple car which drew attention everywhere—was already sold to a collector in Miami who allowed the company to show it at The Quail.

I moved to the Ruf Automobile stand of Alois and Estonia Rufis. That was somewhat of a culture shock, as the no-nonsense Porsches from this atelier have little adornment or flourish. Alois is a friendly, welcoming man, but his cars are all business as well as absolute perfection. Starting his company as an aftermarket “tuner” for Porsches, his creations are now almost entirely of his company’s making, literally creating new 911s with upgraded and updated components. He also has created some bespoke models (with prices expected to range from hundreds of thousands to over $1 million).

Friday evening’s events included Aston Martin’s unveiling party for their new hyper car, the Mercedes Benz cocktail preview, the McLaren cocktail party, the Alfa Romeo event at a winery, and a Lamborghini customer event at the Lamborghini house on the 18th fairway of Pebble Beach golf course.

Saturday started out bright and early with a visit to the Mercedes lounge to pick up a couple of “loaners” for a few hours. The bright red SL 55 AMG was up first—and what a stunner! I dropped the top and took off for 17 Mile Drive. The morning chill was just perfect to experience this open-aired beauty, and I couldn’t believe that it was almost 20 years old. I returned it (reluctantly) to borrow the bright red CLK 63 AMG Black, another vintage model from the Mercedes Classic group. This low volume car (about 500 units) is a stormer of the first order, a car with the raison d’etre of causing a ruckus. It did not disappoint.

1932 Duesenberg J Figoni Sports Torpedo won 2022 Pebble Beach Concours Best of The Show

1956 Mercedes Benz 300 SL Gullwing Coupe at Bonham’s auction

Koenigsegg’s Gemera with gullwing doors

Aston Martin unveiling event at Pebble Beach Golf Course

Haute Living SF publisher Olivia Decker with Bugatti Mistral

Range Rover SV Serenity

Going to the Bugatti display next to the Pebble Beach Golf Course always is a delight. I’ve been a huge fan of the brand since childhood. However, my mission for the day was to interview Achim Anscheidt, the chief designer for Bugatti, about himself and the new hyper car, the Bugatti Mistral. I feel like a fanboy when I get to spend time with him, which I now have done for a combined several hours over the past 17 years. He’s one of the most affable, unassuming, well-spoken, and kind gentlemen I know, and his quiet demeanor belies his incredible talent. Having him point out the styling cues of his newest creation and how they echo the Bugattis of the past is a terrific experience. Spending some time with the Mistral was a real treat, too. I couldn’t drive it, but I received a special up-close-and-personal experience with it. It’s a fitting tribute to the last W16-powered vehicle from the storied marque, as future cars will be hybrids and then all-electrical

From Bugatti I went to the Inn at Spanish Bay to experience the new Lucid Air. This new vehicle brand was born in Silicon Valley, the company initially building powertrains and batteries for other manufacturers. With senior executives arriving from positions with other manufacturers like Tesla and Mazda, the company hit the ground running. Their first car, the Lucid Air, was the one I drove that day. It was an absolute pleasure. The luxury car’s high quality fit and finish includes some unusual features, such as a windshield that continues into the top, providing a truly panoramic view. The technology is impressive: the motor unit is quite small compared to other electric cars’ propulsion systems, yet the car is incredibly quick. Once production ramps up, supply may start to catch up with great demand.

I missed this year’s Concorso Ferrari, which is one of the highlights for me each year. Ferrari rents a great location on the first fairway of the Pebble Beach golf course where they display truly special models. Their party has a terrific Italian vibe. Unable to be there in person, I was there in spirit, having field tested many of their cars this year, including the beautiful Roma and the incredible SF90 Stradale.

I spent the afternoon at two marques’ houses, first with Koenigsegg to say hello to Christian and Haldora von Koenigsegg and to see their newest model, the CC850 (the “ideal combination of classic design and cutting-edge technology” which I would call a 1,350 hp bundle of meanness with a real stick-shift transmission). Also on display was the gorgeous Gemera (the same one I sat in during the launch tour). I haven’t driven either one and hope to get some seat time soon. The Gemera is Koenigsegg’s first 4-door car and sports enormous gullwing doors to allow access to both the front and rear seats. Though I’ve seen them before, these cars in “person” are even more impressive, especially when Christian and Haldora are talking about them.

The afternoon’s second stop was Maserati, a few minutes from the Koenigsegg house. The gorgeous, sky blue MC20 was on the patio, and the beautiful Greycale Trofeo occupied the rear

garden. The MC20 is a gorgeous machine showing what Maserati is capable of and harkens back to their racing victories of the 1950s and 1960s when Maserati and Ferrari vied for championships. What a beautiful car! Having the chance the next day to visit with the CEO and learn more about this supercar added to the luster.

Saturday night belonged to Bentley, as it has for several years. Their signature party at the Beach & Tennis Club is one of the largest parties with live music and food and drink aplenty— not to be missed. The night started with the Bentley Motors Chairman Adrian Hallmark and Bentley USA CEO Christophe Georges unveiling the spectacular Batur, a $2 million bespoke car. Only 18 will be built, and all are spoken for. It was a fitting prelude to a special night.

My last Car Week adventure on Sunday began around 5 a.m. I wanted to experience the “Dawn Patrol.” It’s really a great experience, watching, hearing, and smelling the cars enter the 18th fairway. It’s really a 3D VR-meets-IRL experience to see these cars entering the runway under their own power, many being conducted by owners dressed in their best period finery. Some growl, a few wheeze, and several pop-pop, but all make it by to their hard-earned places on the vaunted golf-course-turnedfashion-runway, sharing the stage, as it were, with some of the finest metal known to man. Other than tasting the cars, it’s a feast for all of the senses.

This year’s Sunday schedule was more leisurely, with interviews on the concept lawn adjacent to the main building at the Lodge at Pebble Beach. Interviews with Lamborghini’s head of engineering are a delight. He walked me through the special Urus Performante set up for its record Pike’s Peak run. Some may think of Lambos as boulevardiers, but that is one mean, purpose-built machine that came home with the medal.

My next interview was with William Peffer, CEO of Maserati. He walked me around the MC20, which looked even more spectacular on the lawn in the morning sun. Also on the lawn were incredible concepts from Lincoln Motors and the newest DeLorean. A stroll through the day’s offerings brought one delight after another. With the sun high in the sky and the glistening Monterey Bay mere yards away, there was no better place to experience the best automotive creations. Cars even the cognoscenti haven’t heard of competed with other equally obscure vehicles, much to the delight of all. Each had been shined and polished to a fare-thee-well, especially implausible for vehicles at or past the 100-year mark.

The 1932 Duesenberg J Figoni Sports Torpedo, shown by Lee R. Anderson, Sr., was named Best of Show at the 71st Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The lavish ceremony on the ramp in front of the Lodge at Pebble Beach was a fitting end to Car Week 2022, a cornucopia of cars and an overflowing of octane, after which car lovers of the world will be satiated for yet another year.

“CAR WEEK 2022 WAS A CORNUCOPIA OF CARS AND AN OVERFLOWING OF OCTANE, AFTER WHICH CAR LOVERS OF THE WORLD WILL BE SATIATED FOR YET ANOTHER YEAR. ”

5 th Annual Sonoma Valley Authors Festival Sells Out

THIS YEAR’S SONOMA VALLEY AUTHORS FESTIVAL FEATURED AN influential array of authors and speakers. Held at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa from August 26 to 28, the sold-out event was limited to 400 guests who had the rare opportunity to immerse themselves in literature and new ideas. Festival organizers were proud to have a broad range of topics this year beyond the general topics of fiction and nonfiction. Attendees and speakers included biographers, poets, geo-political specialists, a brain scientist, a women’s health specialist, an astrophysicist, a humorist, a former Ukraine ambassador, and a climate scientist.

JOY OF LEARNING

“Many festival attendees are lifelong learners, and we want them to walk away feeling not only informed, but transformed,” said festival co-founder Ginny Freeman. “These exceptional authors and remarkable thought leaders are truly changing the world.”

During the event, audience members were highly engaged, and speakers were impressed with their knowledge of the attendees, the depth of their questions, and complete engagement of their presentations.

“Due to the small size of the audience, participants become an intimate, cohesive group of friends by the time they leave,” said Freeman.

The festival is described as an “immersion” type of weekend. It begins with presentations after lunch on Friday, every hour until 5 p.m. Saturday lectures run every hour from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., and Sunday’s lectures are from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m.

Later, guests delighted in book signings, a fireside poetry reading from U.S. Poet Laureate Tracy K. Smith, and stargazing with Alex Filippenko, astrophysicist and professor of astronomy at the University of California, Berkeley.

DINNER WITH THE AUTHORS IN THE HEART OF WINE COUNTRY

Close to 225 attendees participated in the author/sponsor dinner on Friday night at the Sonoma Mission Inn. Authors’ spouses and families joined them for the evening.

“We always look forward to personally welcoming this festival every year,

as it’s a great match for our resort,” said Edward Roe, general manager at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa. “Guests love visiting this Sonoma resort to meet some great authors, listen to poetry readings, and sip local wine in an Adirondack chair in the shade of a tree among our 14 acres—while, of course, reading a book they just had signed by a visiting author.”

INVESTING IN THE COMMUNITY

The festival also hosted free special events for the Sonoma community. More than 850 people came to watch Authors on the Plaza on Saturday, August 27. The event featured introductions by humorist Dave Barry, followed by author Amor Towles who discussed his latest book, The Lincoln Highway. Mary Roach also discussed her newest book, Fuzz: When Nature Breaks the Law

The Annual Students Day program celebrated community and literacy with more than 2,700 students at Sonoma Valley High School. The event featured Tracey K. Smith, along with Dr. David Eagleman, Alex Filippenko, Chris Gardner, and many others. Each year, the festival gives out around 4,000 books, written by the presenting authors, to students.

VIRTUAL FESTIVAL

Keynote lectures, breakout sessions, and Students Day presentations were made available through the Virtual Festival at no cost to attendees, festival workers, and volunteers. For all others, it was priced at $59, and many received it as gifts from attendees who wanted to share the experience.

“With guidance from our tech-forward team at SPRITZ Marketing, we did a lot more promotion on social media and through other channels. The goal is to make our festival available to as many people as possible, while covering its costs. We want everyone on the lifelong learning journey with us, and the Virtual Festival is another avenue to include those who want to be,” said Freeman.

Next year’s Sonoma Valley Authors Festival is scheduled for April 28-30, 2023, at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn. Passes. Hotel rooms can be booked online at svauthorsfest.org. Authors on the Plaza will be Saturday, April 29, from 5-7:30 p.m.

BY JENNIFER BODEN PHOTO:

Several hundred festival attendees enjoyed presentations by more than 20 authors and speakers at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn over three days.

Amor Towles, Tracy K. Smith, Erik Larson, Nikki Erlick, Bill Browder, Mary Roach, Desmond Shum, Dave Barry, Jeffrey Brown, and a dozen more authors and speakers attend.

26-year-old,

Forever

first-time author Nikki Erlick discusses her NYT bestseller, The Measure, with PBS’ Jeffrey Brown

a crowd favorite, Dave Barry (left) smiles for selfies with Amor Towles, (right), author of The Lincoln Highway, at one of the many book signings.

The free, public event, Authors on the Plaza, entertained a crowd of 850 with presentations by Amor Towles (at podium), Mary Roach, and Dave Barry.

U.S. Poet Laureate and Pulitzer Prize winner, Tracey K. Smith and PBS’ Jeffrey Brown closed out the night with a fireside poetry reading.

Bill Browder opens the Sonoma Valley Authors Festival. He is the author of the explosive NYtimes bestseller Red Notice and his recent book Freezing Order

Co-founders David and Ginny Freeman welcome everyone to the 5th annual Sonoma Valley Authors Festival.

Author of The Pursuit of Happyness and Permission to Dream, Chris Gardner shares “If I can do this, then you can do that” with Sonoma Valley High School students.

PHOTOS: BOB STENDER, SCOTT CHERNIS

Maserati Ghibli Trofeo

BY TIM LAPPEN

Bravissimo!

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MASERATI

WHEN I WAS OFFERED A WEEK WITH THE MASERATI GHIBLI TROFEO, I didn’t immediately jump at the chance. I knew that the Ghibli was the younger sibling of the Quattroporte and thought that it must be an underpowered, weaker family member. Boy, was I wrong.

The Ghibli—the smaller of the two 4-door sedans in the Maserati family— is named after a strong, hot desert wind in Libya, also called a sirocco. This Maser comes in four flavors with varying degrees of power and an increasing base price (see chart below).

The Trofeo (“Trophy”) model is clearly the most robust Ghibli in terms of competence and performance. The twin-turbo V8 engine has 538 pound-feet of torque, sufficient for even the most jaded to experience excitement. The 8-speed automatic transmission can also be operated via the paddle shifters, which is my preference. I especially like the throaty sound of the exhaust coupled with the g-force produced on acceleration.

While not too dissimilar in appearance from the other Ghiblis, it does have some special tri-color badging, a blacked-out grille, and carbon fiber at the front splitter and the front intakes. The V8 needs more air for breathing than the V6, so the Ghibli hood provides open vents, another distinguishing detail. The system is clearly effective, as I had no overheating problems during my time with this

special car. It drove like a dream everywhere I went—not just to the grocery store or around for errands, but also so on some freeway runs and even up to Mulholland Highway.

On top of the base price, “mine” (for the week) had $25,000 in options, most notably the $3,200 “Pelletessuta,” woven Napa leather textile sports seats designed with Ermenegildo Zegna of the custom-suit fame, so you know they’re top-drawer. An unusual and elegant fabric, it adds a special look to the Trofeo interior. The high-end sound system and anodized red brake calipers are de rigueur these days, and were included on my car ($2,500 and $1,500, respectively).

The Trofeo is a great car for driving: roomy enough for five passengers, a trunk large enough for their belongings, and enough power to thrill them all. The engine sound alone is worth the price of admission, and it’s even adjustable in case you want to tone it down for the neighbors. With the engine designed by Maserati and assembled by engineers at Ferrari, the gorgeous red cylinder heads on the motor portend what’s to come and look good doing so.

My time with the Trofeo ended way too quickly, but so be it. I had a great experience with the car and came away with a newfound admiration for the folks at Maserati who created it.

+ GHIBLI GT

$82,300 base 345 hp V6 0-60 mph in 5.5 seconds

+ GHIBLI MODENA $88,900 base 424 hp V6 0-60 mph in 4.9 seconds

+ GHIBLI MODENA Q4 $91,600 base 424 hp V6 0-60 mph in 4.7 seconds

+ GHIBLI TROFEO $118,500 base 580 hp V8 0-60 mph in 4.0 seconds

Lexus LC 500 Coupe

A powerful yet refined grand tourer

BY TIM LAPPEN

PHOTOS

THIS IS NOT MY MOTHER’S LEXUS. REALLY. HERS WAS AN LS 400, purchased around 1990, and it lived up to the LS designation as a luxury sedan. The younger man I was then was not thrilled with the superinsulated ride, as I wanted road feel. But even then, I had to admit that it was quiet and comfortable.

Flash forward over three decades later and the Lexus of today has a surfeit of models and a panoply of vehicle designations denoting a brand that has something for everyone: case in point, the LC 500 (Luxury Coupe with 500 cubic centimeters of displacement—which has a pretty direct correlation to power.) In this case, 471 horsepower comes from a naturallyaspirated (no turbo or supercharger) muscular V8. The sporty ones among us will enjoy the throaty roar of the exhaust on full throttle, and the almost sprightly feel of the car’s response to acceleration and braking. Those who prefer a more sedate ride will appreciate that this car is an Lexus L (luxury) with leather-trimmed power seats and a transmission so slick it’s hard to discern any shifting going on. (Note: it has eight speeds, but good luck trying to count them while underway.)

Creating the LC500 must be something like creating holy water—you boil the hell out of it—as all of the vestiges of sports car ride and feel have been tamed, smoothed, and luxuriated into submission. That’s not to say that the LC500 isn’t a performer, as it can hang with the others at the “Stop Light Grand Prix.” With a 0-60 miles per hour (mph) time of 4.4 seconds and a top

speed of 168 mph (stats provided by Lexus), it’s a respectable athlete. But Lexus has never been known as a manufacturer that focuses on such statistics alone, as they’ve always blended the ability of the car with the comfort, convenience, and ease of driving, all of which, to many of us, add up to a great grand tourer (GT) instead of a car that excels in one or two speed metrics.

“My” Lexus (for a week) was in the cadmium orange colorway which, I admit, was not love at first sight. It did grow on me, though, as did my appreciation for what Lexus brought to the GT table. I grew to appreciate the sound and the relative fury for what they were, and actually enjoyed the ergonomically designed, cooled, and heated seats. On top of the base price of $93,050, the build sheet showed a relatively modest $7,790 in options, which resulted in a sticker price of $102,545. (I have seen some as-tested LC500s priced above $120,000.) However, mine did not seem meager in any sense, partly because the options did include the $5,000 Sport Package, with 21-inch wheels, Alcantara seat inserts, and the $1,220 Mark Levinson 13-speaker sound system. Though my week with the LC500 was not replete with canyon carving or test track driving, I enjoyed my time with the car. When I wanted to merge on to the 405 with alacrity (which one can do only if driving between 2:30 and 3:00 a.m.), the abundance of power was quite welcome. When I had a longer drive, especially in traffic, the insulated nature of the Lexus was a welcome respite from the day. All in all, I enjoyed the LC for all that it offered and also for what it didn’t.

Fly Aero

Redefining

BY NOËL BURGESS

semi-private jet travel

ARE YOU LOOKING TO ENJOY THE PERKS OF FLYING BY PRIVATE JET while paying prices more aligned with flying commercial? If so, it’s time to go Aero. Aero is a semi-private airline offering first class travel on flights from San Francisco and Los Angeles to several locations in the U.S. and Mexico. Boasting end-to-end, bespoke, white glove services, Aero offers minimal touch points for both the passengers and flight attendants and a jet sanitation process before and after each flight, adding an additional layer of care.

What is the advantage of flying “semi-private” on Aero? They offer guests a seamless, elevated way to skip the crowds and long security lines via private terminals (FBOs) for a less stressful and safer experience. Guests may park or be dropped off near the aircraft, check in 30 to 40 minutes before takeoff, and wait inside a private lounge before boarding. Inside Aero’s custom-designed, 16-seat, one-to-one luxury configuration jets, travelers will immediately understand the exceptional level of service provided by Aero’s concierge team who take care of every last detail before, during, and after the flight. The team will book ground transportation and localized experiences

and curate lounge and in-flight amenities like gourmet food options and alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.

Aero’s current North American portfolio includes travel to Aspen, Los Cabos, and Sun Valley from private U.S. terminals in Los Angeles (Van Nuys) and San Francisco (SFO). This month, Aero is extending its portfolio and doubling down on the LA market with the addition of a hub at LAX, launching with a route to the coveted winter vacation hot spot, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. The LAX hub, which operates out of Signature Aviation’s private terminal, will fly routes to Cabo San Lucas (CLS), a new airport for the brand in addition to their flights to San Jose del Cabo International Airport out of Van Nuys, providing convenient travel to both sides of Cabo.

In addition to their U.S.-based growth. Aero will also be expanding their presence in Europe with two new flights out of London’s Farnborough Airport to Geneva Airport (GVA) and Sion Airport (SIR) in Switzerland, with the first flights departing December 19. The new European routes will accompany the existing destinations from London, including Ibiza and Nice.

GLIMMER +

HL: Some people call Geneo the facial of the future? Can you explain?

CM: Geneo is dubbed the “facial of the future,” thanks to its innovative, patented technology. Geneo’s three, non-invasive, clinically proven steps (OxyGeneo, ultrasound, and massage) combined with Geneo’s natural, highly effective ingredients deliver immediate, long-lasting results with no downtime.

HL: How does it differ from Hydrafacial or an oxygen facial?

CM: What sets Geneo apart from Hydrafacial and many other devicebased facials is that Geneo involves no suction. This means no pulling or tugging that could potentially damage skin. In addition, Geneo’s method of oxygenation works with your skin from the inside out, versus other oxygen modalities that work from the outside in.

HL: Geneo is a skin-activated facial. What does that mean?

CM: Geneo’s patented oxygenation technology is activated in the skin when the Geneo OxyPod reacts with the Geneo Primer Gel, creating a bubbly, carbon dioxide-rich environment. This in turn causes a surge of oxygenated blood and nutrients to be delivered to the more superficial layers of skin, leaving behind a bright, glowing complexion.

HL: What makes a Geneo the best facial to have before a holiday party?

CM: Geneo is the perfect glow-and-go treatment, since there is no downtime and you get immediate results! This facial also creates a smooth, supple canvas for flawless makeup application before an event.

Geneo™ Facials and Must-Have Products for the Holidays.

BY BECCA HENSLEY

HL: Geneo facials have three steps. What are they?

CM: 1) OxyGeneo: This step focuses on oxygenation and exfoliation. 2) Ultrasound: This step provides infusion and nourishment of Geneo specialty serums. 3) Massage: This step soothes redness, muscle tension, and sculpts facial features for a lifted and contoured appearance.

HL: Not just for faces, Geneo can help other body areas. Tell us about it!

CM: Geneo Body expands beyond the face with a new approach to body rejuvenation. Like the Geneo facial, Geneo Body combines skincare technology with highly effective ingredients to achieve healthy, glowing skin from head to toe in a natural and noninvasive way. Each of Geneo’s six facial treatments is also used for Geneo Body, touching on the most important tenets of skin rehab: exfoliation, oxygenation, and nourishment. This treatment can be performed on areas of the body, including the chest, back, buttocks, bikini line, arms, and legs.

FOR YOUR PARTY FACE

1. By the incomparable Kevyn Aucoin, Glass Go Lip, bridges highlighting and skincare. Ensuring a glassy, good-for-your-lips finish, the product can be used alone as fresh look to your “I woke up like this” daytime outings and adds a gleam to your party hue. kevynaucoinbeauty.com

2. For that “Photoshopped” look in real life, the miracle-working MagicMinerals AirBrush Foundation by Jerome Alexander promises smooth, flawless coverage that lasts all night. A spray foundation with a proprietary blend of anti-aging ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, Argireline, and Matrixyl 3000™, the radiant-making foundation works for all ages and ethnicities. amazon.com

3. Get sultry (you know you want to) with the 52 Degree Cool Eyeshadow Palette from Roen. A first of its kind, the 4-pack formula illuminates the eyes with a dramatic, glassy effect. Colors include: Bask (rose gold), Rendezvous (purple), Yep (gray), and Meow (gunmetal). roenbeauty.com

HL: Of the six different Geneo treatments, how do I know what is best for me? What does each one do?

CM:1) Illuminate unifies skin tone. 2) Detox repairs and protects the skin barrier. 3) Revive reduces fine lines and winkles. 4) Balance treats oily skin and acne. 5) Hydrate enhances moisture retention. 6) Glam improves elasticity and firmness. Your esthetician will go over your skincare needs pre-facial to determine which treatment is best for your skin.

HL: Tell us about Geneo Glam. That sounds perfect for the holidays.

CM: The 24-karat, gold-based facial, Geneo Glam, uses pure gold flakes to boost collagen and firmness. Geneo Glam prevents the loss of collagen and moisture as well as improves skin elasticity and firmness, revealing a more supple texture for the smoothest makeup application possible. The facial also minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, while also enhancing cellular function for optimized skin renewal. Infusing gold into skincare and treatments not only exudes a feeling of luxury, but also delivers a powerful dose of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the micronized precious metals in Glam lend firmness, radiance, and vitality to the skin, enhancing the effects of makeup and creating a long-lasting glow. geneo-us.com/

HL: Where can we get one in the Bay Area?

CM: Enjoy at Total Glow, Ashley Marie Paul Skincare, and Bloom Skincare Studio. totalglow.com, ashleymariepaul.com, bloomskincarestudio.net

BEST DISCOVERY OF 2022

Like peerless Swiss hotels, Swiss skincare reigns among the world’s best. On my last trip, I discovered family-owned Biences Swiss Cosmetics, made in a small town among Alpen peaks with clean, handpicked ingredients (plenty of botanicals and youth-boosting ingredients such as hyaluronic acid). Luxurious and regenerative, these effective, holistic products range from body to face care. Biences is now available online for purchase in the United States. And don’t miss The Scientist, their separate brand for men. Seductively scented and as effective as the parent company’s trove, The Scientist takes men’s handsome visages, quest for anti-aging, and desire for pampering seriously. Ingredients such as apricot and almond oil, plus aloe vera, seal the deal.

EXPERIENCING THE POWER OF THE

BY TERESA RODRIGUEZ

THE MORNING’S CLOUDS OPENED, AND THE SUN’S reflection cast vibrant rainbows throughout the Costa Rican sky. Perched atop a horse named Rabbit, my daughter smiled at me and pointed to the rays of color that swept across the horizon. We were slowly riding through a lush grove of mango trees, giant leaves dappled with raindrops from the night before. Trusting the surefootedness of my horse, I looked up as a flock of scarlet macaws took flight and filled the air with their mischievous squawks. Finally, I exhaled, and a sense of ease filled my body.

Traveling with an 11-year-old can be tricky business. It’s an age where Disneyland is now passé, but a museum-filled European vacation would only invite eye rolls and dramatic sighs. Then there are the needs of Mama, because we all know, “if Mama ain’t happy, no one’s happy.” So, how do you find that sweet spot where your preteen children and you can have a rewarding and memorable vacation?

Think purpose

The purpose of our trip was to disconnect from the frenetic pace of life and reconnect with each other.

Scanning the globe, the internet, and random articles on health and wellness and places to take a preteen all led to the same place: Costa Rica. However, diving deeper into destinations that focus on healing and bonding, the Blue Zones popped up. Once again, there was Costa Rica, specifically Nicoya, Costa Rica, one of the world’s five Blue Zones.

So, what is a Blue Zone? Based on Healthline, Blue Zones are regions of the world where a higher proportion of that population live for more than 100 years. Their inhabitants’ longevity is

Disconnect to reconnect at Costa Rica’s Punta Islita.

partly credited to their diets, lifestyle, and other factors, such as exercise and social environment. Coincidentally, this area of the world has something called “plan de vida,” which roughly translates to “sense of purpose.”

After hours of reading reviews and researching the area, we settled on Hotel Punta Islita, a charming resort nestled in the hillside of Guanacaste. Getting off the beaten path can be a delicate balance. While I like peace and quiet, I still want my champagne and turndown service. So, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that while Punta Islita is far from civilization, it is still very much connected to the lovely, rarefied amenities that make staying at luxury resorts so scrumptious.

In all honesty, I appreciated the Blue Zones’ ethos, but I didn’t think that a visit to one of these places would be a life-changing experience. I was wrong.

Back on the horse, I felt a connection to nature and my daughter. We were sharing something special. This moment in time was fleeting, but I knew that I would long cherish the memories. As our horses moved closer to the shoreline, a family of howler monkeys gathered on the high branches of an ancient guanacaste tree.

Ready to eat after our long ride, we arrived at Aura Restaurant for lunch. The resort’s chef, Federico Lizano, strolled through the outdoor restaurant, greeting guests with his effervescent smile and bright eyes. When he came to our table, I asked what he recommended.

“Definitely the octopus ceviche,” he answered with passion.

Chef Federico was on point with that recommendation. The ceviche was a delicious treat of fresh octopus, thinly sliced coyote cilantro, tiger’s milk, chimichurri, lemon, and toasted rice.

When he returned to ask about lunch, I had to ask him about

his influence on the menu and how it aligned with the Blue Zone. Along with the hotel’s kilometer zero concept (he uses ingredients produced sustainably within a kilometer or less of the hotel), he also implements the pillars of Costa Rica’s Blue Zone diet: “They are called the four sisters: beans, corn, rice, and squash. These are the essential foods used in most meals in this area.”

After lunch, we returned to our villa with our private plunge pool, yard, and panoramic views of the green mountains rising from the calm ocean below. A few hours later, with renewed vigor, we ascended the steep slopes and ziplined above deep, verdant valleys rich with blooming flowers and noisy birds. Hearing my daughter squeal with glee as she sped across the ziplines bought me so much joy.

Each night, we played Monopoly, my daughter enjoying a “mocktail” while I sipped perfectly chilled rosé. On one of these evenings, the general manager, Otto Lopez Vergara, took a moment out of his busy schedule to sit down and ask us about our stay. His kind eyes and genuine smile were a delight, and we talked about how much fun we were having.

He asked, “Have you visited Punta Islita’s Open-Air Museum of Contemporary Art?”

We hadn’t, and he said that the hotel offered free shuttles there, and, at the Museum House, artists teach various workshops and activities for guests.

“There you can meet the people of the Blue Zone and their incredible way of life,” Otto continued.

Of course, we had to experience it. So, the next day we had the fantastic opportunity to see how and why life was so good for these incredible people.

“Contento,” an old man said when I asked how he was.

Happy, satisfied, or content is the meaning of content in English. I liked that: satisfied

PHOTOS: PUNTA ISLITA, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION

“MOST OF OUR EMPLOYEES WERE RAISED HERE, SO THEY BRING THEIR SENSE OF CONTENTO TO WORK WITH THEM AND SHARE IT WITH THE GUESTS.”

Otto also shared that the locals have a beautiful vision of the universe and a thoughtful way of living. While hard work is essential, family is always number one. Along with family, traditions and customs are deeply rooted in their way of life.

“Most of our employees were raised here, so they bring their sense of contento to work with them and share it with the guests,” he said.

I admit that I felt it. Every person I met greeted me with a genuine pura vida and a broad smile.

Chef Federico brought the cuisine of the Blue Zone into focus at the resort. Dinner, served at the mountaintop palapa named Alma, which means soul in Spanish, is a delicious experience. Along with the sweeping views and an infinity pool, the restaurant serves up a Blue Zone tasting menu created especially by Chef Federico. The courses included an appetizer of charred jumbo shrimp served with traditional corn pudding, starfruit crackers, and dragon fruit caviar. The center was red snapper with smoked fennel puree, served on a bed of tomatoes and basil salsa. Dessert was a star fruit sorbet with sweet plantain flan. The contrast of flavors was phenomenal.

The star fruits are grown on the expansive property, so Chef Federico does all he can to incorporate them into his dishes when they are in season.

We happened to be there when giant leatherback turtles were coming to shore, depositing their eggs. So, close to midnight, we gathered with a small group from the hotel and followed our guide, who led us to two massive turtles digging holes, laying their eggs, then returning to the sea in the pitch dark of night. He used dim red lights that didn’t disturb the turtles. We all watched

silently, witnessing one of the most intimate moments in a turtle’s life. After our spectacular dinner and experiencing the miracles of nature, we slept soundly in our canopy beds, replete with gossamer curtains that gently swayed from the light ocean breeze. The next day, I lounged in a cabaña while my daughter splashed in the ocean’s playful waves. I could feel the restfulness and well-being of Islita embracing me. The warm breeze off the Pacific Ocean was a gentle reminder that our only moment is now. Nothing else exists beyond that.

So far, we have experienced the Blue Zone’s natural wonders, hospitality, cuisine, and people. Next was their wellness treatment. And, as a spa junkie, I couldn’t have been more excited.

Hidden above the main resort and enclosed by lush tropical gardens, the Nanku Wellbeing Center showcases natural ingredients and ancient Chorotega healing wisdom. My daughter and I signed up for a Blue Zone experience that took us on a magical journey that included a body scrub made from tropical fruits, outdoor shower ritual, local essential oils massage, and a refreshing bubble bath with hibiscus tea. After our treatments, my daughter and I floated back to our villa, where we indulged in an afternoon of silly games and laughter.

As a seasoned travel writer and author of two books for solo women travelers, I rarely find a place that truly feeds my soul and tames my chaotic mind. But after descending into the feathered nest of Hotel Punta Islita and experiencing the power of their Blue Zone, I am convinced that there is a place where you can go to disconnect from the chaos of your life and reconnect with something more profound, calmer, and truly timeless. hotelpuntaislita.com

Beauty from thE

Vinotherapy help for the skin

BY BECCA HENSLEY

As it turns out there’s another use for wine good enough to turn a few heads. It’s called vinotherapy. Redefining happy hour, the practice doesn’t mean merely drinking wine at day’s end to relax. Rather, it refers to the use of grapes and their by-products to boost skin health when applied externally. Likely dating back to the ancient Romans who purportedly bathed in wine, modern vinotherapy uses wine-spiked, antioxidant-rich products to perform beauty treatments as diverse as wraps, scrubs, baths, and massages. Enriched with curative compounds such as polyphenols, flavonoids, and resveratrol (found in grape stems, skins, seeds, and pulp), the applied creams and oils have been touted to reduce wrinkles, increase cell renewal, smooth out cellulite, tighten skin, ameliorate acne, and improve overall circulation to provide a noticeable glow. Ready to fight free radicals and build collagen from the outside in? These wine-centric spas located around the world await you.

Travel to the far-flung Kakheti region of eastern Georgia at the foot of the Caucasus Mountains to seek the fountain of youth. Amid a verdant landscape of forests, lakes, wineries, and mountain hiking paths, Kakheti draws both oenophiles and outdoor enthusiasts. Its Lopota Lake & Spa Resort, equipped with its own winery—not to mention eight swimming pools, a wellness center and spa, a Slavic bath house, tennis courts, horse stables, and restaurants—specializes in vinotherapy treatments. In its aptly named Forest Spa, try the “Elixir of Youth Treatment” in which therapists pour the resort’s house-made Kakhetian wine onto the body. Its pulp, an exfoliant, removes dead skin cells to reveal a brighter new skin layer.

Some people travel to Scotland to golf, but in-the-know beauty buffs head to the quaint seaside town of North Berwick to repose in the legendary Marine North Berwick’s spa between tee times. Partnering with French skincare line Caudalie, The Spa at Marine North Berwick offers an array of vinotherapy options utilizing products infused with vibrant, corrective ingredients from Caudalie’s Bordeaux vineyards. The haven tempts with treatments such as The Marine Spa Winemaker’s Massage which involves therapeutic kneading with a winemaker’s stick and the VineActiv Facial created to fight pollution and ageing.

A Roman-inspired spa in Reno? Why not? That’s the dolce vita! Part of the eco-conscious Peppermill Reno Resort, Spa Toscana presents a thermae-focused journey within its three floors of treatment rooms, water features, hot and cold plunge pools, cedar wood saunas, and more. Enjoy a sensorial, wine-saturated delight with the spa’s Cabernet & Neroli Wrap, which uses a combination of Cabernet and neroli oils and scrubs for a vitamin-rich treatment. To unravel all the knots, choose the “Wine Down,” a full body massage treatment that uses the extracts of black currant found in fine red wine.

The region that surrounds Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn in the heart of Sonoma wine country has long been considered a sacred place. That’s partly due to its abundant hot springs, many of which sit on hotel property. They contribute to the allure of the Fairmont Spa at Sonoma Mission Inn. For a salubrious alternative to wine tasting, indulge in some of the Spa’s various Caudalie-powered treatments, including Fleur de Vigne (Flower of the Vine), a multisensory massage orchestrated to relax, eradicate tension, and restore energy. For the visage, the Caudalie Grand Facial seals the deal.

AND YOU THOUGHT WINE WAS FOR SIPPING?

Many attribute the rise of modern vinotherapy to the opening of Les Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux two decades ago. The chic hotel, set among vineyards, pioneered the modern concept of winebased wellness. At last, its long awaited sister, also a spa hotel, has launched in the bucolic Loire Valley. Equally luxurious, Les Sources de Cheverny consists of private rooms, many of them private, wooden cabins. At Spa des Sources, guests can sample Caudalie products made with grapeseed extract in rituals such as the Caudalie Crush Cabernet Scrub or skin firming Vinosculpt.

Just north of San Diego, Cal-a-Vie Health Spa spreads across 500 private acres. With a classic Californian commitment to wellbeing, the retreat draws, too, from France, styling the retreat with Provençal-found arts and antiques, revering fine wine and food as well as encouraging guests to live their best life (art de vivre) via the plethora of activities offered. For the spa, the retreat produces Vinotherapie, a product line developed with extracts from the spa’s harvest of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot grapes. Grape seeds, skins, and pulps compose the antioxidant-rich mixtures created to be used in spa treatments and at home.

Portugal’s Sintra exudes mystical energy. It’s the perfect location to change course or lean into transformation. Do that at Tivoli Palacio De Seteais, where the Anantara Spa looks to the long relationship between wine and beauty to carve out its spa program. Embracing Portugal’s wine culture, particularly the region’s own Colares wine, the spa proffers various wine-driven treatments. The “Anantara Seteais Romantic Experience” uses some of the best examples of Colares wine, produced on the slopes of the Sintra hillsides since the 12th century. Opt for the wine body scrub and the wine body wrap.

A century-old garden, awash in rosemary, olive trees, and lavender, sets the scene for rejuvenation at Santa Barbara’s San Ysidro Ranch where legions of “celubutantes” have married, honeymooned, and sought tranquility. Follow their lead with a bespoke itinerary that not only includes sailing, hiking, horseback riding, fine dining, and wine tasting, but also wine-intoned treatments in the spa. Go for the vinotherapy wine wrap at the Salon & Spa, sure to exfoliate, polish the skin, and deeply hydrate. Then return to your lair, the 2,000-square-foot Kennedy Cottage, to admire the results.

SAPELO SKINCARE

These innovative products work in harmony with the skin’s regenerative power. They deliver safe, effective skin repair by naturally stimulating skin cells, collagen, and elastin production. Southerninspired for women of all ages and made in Savannah, they use ingredients such as magnolia oil and gardenia stem cells. sapeloskincare.com

LELAND FRANCIS

The best products have a backstory. For Leland Francis, a nontoxic, incredibly clean, plant-based, gender-neutral skincare line, the story begins on a farm in small town in Oklahoma where founder Dillon Peña, a celebrity makeup artist, grew up. Honoring his grandparents with his sustainable products and the line’s name, Peña has created a luscious, clean, and safe approach to daily beauty routines. Try Body Radiance, a luxe blend of flower waxes adept at boosting collagen and reducing wrinkles. lelandfrancis.com

DR. DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE

Ever the leader, Dr. Dennis Gross has done it again. His just-released Dr. Dennis Gross Vitamin C Lactic Collection addresses sun-damaged skin with four new products, each a unique fusion of vitamin C, lactic acid and tranexamic acid. Oil-Free Radiant Moisturizer, Vitamin C Firm & Bright Serum, Dewy Deep Cream, and Firm & Bright Eye Treatment work together to reverse signs of ageing, reduce sun damage, and recharge skin. drdennisgross.com

Anantara

San Ysidro Ranch

Les Sources de Cheverney

Magnificent San Francisco Bay View Residence

BY OLIVIA DECKER

THIS FABULOUS RESIDENCE IS LOCATED ON TOP OF THE MOST premier of Tiburon locations. It boasts a perfect contemporary design with high ceilings and wall-to-wall windows showcasing magnificent, panoramic views of the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, the Bay Bridge, Angel Island, Belvedere, Sausalito, and majestic Mt. Tam. Every room is oriented towards the awe-inspiring views and filled with natural light. This newly remodeled, stylish, 4-bedroom home (3,878± square feet) is an entertainer’s dream!

The spacious living room has a fireplace and a wet bar, and the family room just below it also has a fireplace as well as an attached deck. The formal dining room has open beams, 30-foot ceilings, and 2-story windows overlooking breathtaking views of San Francisco Bay. It offers a uniquely spectacular dining experience. The stylish kitchen features fine quartzite countertops, large center island, an eat-in-breakfast area, a handmade Spanish tile floor, and top-of-the-line appliances. The double oven is

equipped to be preheated from anywhere using the app. The primary bedroom features a large sitting area with wall-to-wall windows for perfect views, and the attached bathroom has a steam shower and state-of-the-art heating system with unique quartzite vanities and a walk-in closet. All bathrooms are equipped with brass faucets and tile floors, handmade by Italian artisans. Other features in the house include an office, a spacious laundry room with copper sink, and a 2-car garage.

Located at the end of a cul-de-sac with a private driveway, the home is both peaceful and uniquely quiet. It is within close proximity to downtown Tiburon’s shops, restaurants, waterfront pathways, ferries to Angel Island and San Francisco, and the prestigious Corinthian and San Francisco Yacht Clubs. It gives every resident the remarkable sensation of vacationing at home and is offered at $9,999,000. Details and pictures on www.23Venado.com.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Pop the champagne, Moulin Rouge! The Musical is the winner of 10 Tony Awards® including Best Musical.

BY SHARON SETO

UPON ENTERING THE ORPHEUM THEATER, I WAS TRANSPORTED to another planet and surrounded by wild energy. Even before the musical started, the eye-catching design elements and sexy performers on set had already begun their seduction. Slow, writhing showgirls in revealing corsets and beautifully sculpted, nearly naked men performed in delicious foreplay before the curtain revealed the sumptuous stage behind. Oh my goodness, when “Lady Marmalade” kicked off the show, it was clear we were all in for a fun romp. The two lead actors, Conor Ryan as Christian and Courtney Reed as Satine, were magical together, with intense chemistry, sexual attraction, terrific voices, and joie de vivre. Take a seat, chill, and get ready

to lose yourself to “truth, beauty, freedom, and love.” Moulin Rouge! The Musical has it all, and I was privileged to get to catch Conor Ryan between performances in San Francisco.

Ryan is a California-raised actor and singer residing in Manhattan. Originally born in the Monterey-Carmel area, he graduated from the University of Michigan’s musical theater program and immediately debuted as part of an ensemble as Prince Topher of Broadway’s production of Cinderella Currently, Ryan plays the lead in Moulin Rouge! The Musical at the Orpheum Theater in San Francisco, where his gorgeous voice and hair caught my attention.

HL: You played as Prince Topher during your debut on Broadway. How did you feel the first time on stage on Broadway?

CR: It was a whirlwind, to be honest, my first and only experience ever being put in a show that was already running. I was cast almost immediately upon my arrival in New York City. I didn’t even have a place to stay yet! I would leave rehearsals, have a little dinner break, and text my friends furiously, asking if they had a couch I could sleep on that night. It was a dream come true, but an extreme start.

I was in an ensemble. Joining a preexisting ensemble is very complicated because of all the different choreography and all the different arrangements of bodies on stage. When someone first goes on a show and if they ever lose their way on stage, it’s called “shoving with love.” I was “shoved with love” the first night. My stomach was in my throat for the time. When it was over, I felt like, where am I? It was crazy! I was looking forward to another chance to try it again, hopeful to improve on my performance.

HL: Calling or texting friends daily to sleep on a couch is an incredible experience. Where did you come from?

CR: I’d just graduated from the University of Michigan. I came to the city with the intention to stay for a week to do the “showcase,” which is a performance we give to casting agents, directors, and producers in hope of getting representation. I gave myself a week, hoping for a few meetings with agents and managers. Things moved quickly. I got quite a few meetings, signed up with an agent, and was sent right away to auditions.

I was due to spend the summer at a non-equity summerstock theater in Indiana. The first show of the season was Mary Poppins, and I was supposed to be playing Bert. Fortunately for me but unfortunately for them, I auditioned for Cinderella for the first national tour. I found out during the audition cast that there was actually an ensemble member leaving the Broadway show and they were trying to fill that slot. So, I sang for the “prince,” and before I knew it, I was sent over to the Broadway theater to try on his costumes. The costume crew said, “All right, they all fit. You’re cast!” It was a crazy summer … madness. Gosh, I think I was cast on a Friday or Saturday and had to call the summer-stock theater on Sunday to let them know I would not be there on Monday, the first day of rehearsals for Mary Poppins. My heart is racing now just thinking about it.

EVEN BEFORE THE MUSICAL STARTED, THE EYE-CATCHING DESIGN ELEMENTS AND SEXY PERFORMERS ON SET HAD ALREADY BEGUN THEIR SEDUCTION.

HL: I have long hair, and I noticed you have naturally gorgeous, long hair. Does your hair help you get into character? Did you ever have to cut it for a part?

CR: Wow, what an interesting question. I had short hair, sort of the typical, boyish haircut you commonly see on Broadway chorus boys. That was my initial look when I started my career. I was lucky to have a good agent and got plenty of auditions.

I grew my hair out because I was cast as Christopher McCandless, made so famous by the book Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer. Chris left his life behind to wander alone into the Alaskan wilderness to fend for himself and survive off the land. He ended up starving to death. There was a new musical, Into the Wild. It was a folk-rock musical, and I was lucky enough to be cast as Chris.

When I grew my hair out, I started to get more interesting auditions and noticed that I wasn’t auditioning for the sweet young boy or lover, but for for rock stars or drug addicts. I found it more exciting and interesting. Ever since then, I have kept my hair long. I’ve gotten to play young Mick Jagger and some really cool roles. For the time being, I think it will stay.

HL: If you needed to cut your hair, would you do it?

CR: For an exciting project, absolutely! I never shaved my head, but I honestly would be very interested to see what I would look like. I don’t think I have the courage to do it myself, but I was tempted during the pandemic!

It’s funny that you commented about my hair. When I finally

got the call during the pandemic about Moulin Rouge, my agent said, “They have two questions for you: have you gained a huge amount of weight?” I answered, “No, I’m about the same as always.” “Did you cut your hair?” I answered, “It’s much much longer now.” Then he said, “Cool, you got the job!” That was one of the best moments of my life.

HL: Do you remember the moment you found out you were cast as the lead in Moulin Rouge as Christian?

CR: My auditions were in early 2020, and I was supposed to have a final callback on stage—pretty old-fashioned. I’d never had an audition on stage and was very excited. This audition was supposed to pair me with Satine. I had a good feeling about it, but that final callback was supposed to be March 28 or 29. As you can imagine, the callback didn’t happen. I didn’t hear anything from my agent until April 2021. I was so relieved and grateful.

HL: Any good luck charms on you or in your dressing room?

CR: Absolutely. My father passed away when I was born, so I keep photos of him and my mom in my dressing room, as well as a leather pouch with some of his ashes. I also have a small urn my best friend gave me after her father died. He was a father figure to me. I keep it in my dressing room, along with some crystals. Almost every day I wear my mom’s silver ring with a tiger’s eye in the center. Unfortunately, I’m not allowed to wear it on stage, but I do wear it every day. When I get to the theater, I take it off. I don’t think of them as good luck charms, but tokens of the people important in my life.

HL: I was really blown away by Moulin Rouge! It was a feast for the eyes on stage, as were the costumes! The entire production oozes chic come-hither sensuality. Tony winner Catherine Zuber, the costume designer, is tremendously talented. Have you met her? What are your favorite costumes?

CR: I ‘m so lucky to have quite a few interactions with her. I interacted with her in all of my fittings. Her attention to detail is unparalleled. I was so grateful and lucky enough to be cast in the first national tour which gave us all the opportunity to rehearse together in a studio in New York, as if the show had never been mounted before.

The creative team was well-versed in putting the show together. It was the fourth production of the show after Broadway, London, and Australia.

With the opportunity to rehearse, the show altogether comes a “tech” process which occurred in Chicago. Not only were we given that time to meticulously put the show together, but we were also blessed to have the entire creative team there with us. I’m not sure, actually, if that is common. Not only did we have Catherine Zuber in the house for those several weeks of tech, but we had Derek McLane, the set designer; Alex Timbers, the director; Sonya Tayeh, the choreographer; Justin Levine, the music supervisor; and the entire creative team. So, we got the time with them.

Catherine Zuber was so kind to me. She said so many wonderful things about my work, my performance. I will never forget that. She’s an incredible artist, and we are so lucky to get

to wear those gorgeous costumes every day, like that incredible, floor-length, black leather coat which is probably worth more than my life!

HL: Is that your favorite costume?

CR: I think so. That coat is just gorgeous. I can’t believe Courtney, my co-star who plays Satine, and I get to come out for bows in new costumes. I’m not sure if you noticed that. That painted black and silver coat that I get to wear is a work of art.

HL: Which cities on your tour you are looking to visit for the first time? What are you thinking of doing once you get there?

CR: Most of the tour stops are places I’ve been or worked before. The city I was most excited to visit is San Francisco. I absolutely love SF. I was born a few hours south in the Monterey/Carmel area. Something about the climate and vegetation here is nostalgic. It has such an international feel to it.

As far as cities I’ve never been to, I look forward to Salt Lake City. I had never been to Minneapolis, although we’ve already done that stop. I got to visit the George Floyd Memorial, which was very meaningful, a cool experience.

Moulin Rouge! The Musical Ten-time Tony Winner

Based on the 20th Century Fox Motion Picture by Baz Luhrmann Playing the Orpheum Theatre September 8, to November 6, 2022 1192 Market Street, San Francisco CA Tickets and more details can be found at broadwaysf.com.

Lydia is a passionate advocate of healthy living. She has launched and positioned many health and wellness-related companies, products, technologies and organizations receiving more than 100 awards nationally and internationally. Her focus in the health sector is specifically on life sciences, aging and longevity.

She is a partner and investor in several recognized national brands. She sits on the board of the Buck Institute for Research on Aging whose mission is to eliminate the threat of agerelated disease for today’s and future generations. It is the only independent research organization globally dedicated to extending the healthy years of life. Like the scientists at the Buck, Graham envisions it will be possible for people to enjoy life at 95 as much as at 25. To support Buck’s mission, please visit www.buckinstitute.org.

Stressed? Just Breathe. THERE MIGHT BE MORE TO IT THAN YOU THINK.

BY LYDIA GRAHAM

WHILE MANY OF US WATCH OUR DIET AND EXERCISE, WE probably have not given much thought to how we breathe. Some of us cannot ignore our noses, especially if we suffer from respiratory or sleep issues such as asthma, snoring, or sleep apnea. Considering the average human takes up to 25,000 breaths per day or an average of 670 million breaths over a lifetime --- breathing is an area of our well-being worth paying attention to. Taking time to explore its potential benefits when done properly and understanding the negative consequences when done incorrectly is important to our health.

Although breathwork is all the rage these days, I must admit I have been slow to explore it. My breathing techniques were developed earlier in my life through yoga and meditation. So, when two friends (one with sleep apnea) shared that the book Breath changed their lives, I thought I had better take notice and resigned myself to reading what I thought would be a very boring book all about breath. I could not have been more wrong.

Most health and wellness pursuits often begin as a personal journey seeking to address a personal need. Such was the case with James Nestor, an award-winning, San Francisco-based science writer and author who recently penned the current NYT bestseller, Breath Suffering from frequent bouts of bronchitis and pneumonia, he set out on a 5-year quest to find answers. He takes us right along as he subjects himself to various experiments and digs through ancient burial sites, medical libraries, ancient scripts, dental records and more. His tenacious sense of curiosity and deep exploration of this subject is truly inspiring. Along the way and down through the ages, we meet doctors, scientists, holy men, and what he calls the “pulmonauts”—a rogue group who were more tinkerers but who threw themselves into unearthing the powers of breathing to solve all kinds of health conditions and facilitate peak athletic and musical performance.

The story begins millions of years ago. Perhaps surprisingly, our ancestors had universally straight teeth, wide nasal apertures, and more expansive airways than we do now. Today humans are the worst breathers on the planet and the only species to routinely have malocclusion (misalignment of the jaws and teeth). It all seemed to change about 300,000 years ago with the arrival of Homo sapiens. We began to “dysevolve” over the centuries (the opposite of evolve and, in this case, going backwards, respiratory-wise), as Nestor explains, to become a species of “snorers, chokers, wheezers, coughers, panters, and overall miserable breathers”. Part of this had to do with how our facial structure changed, particularly our mouths and noses along with and partly because of our patterns of food consumption (from raw to cooked to processed) over time.

Our journey with Nestor kicks off as he undertakes a 20-day experiment with Dr. Jayakar Nayak, the chief of rhinology research at Stanford to explore the effects of habitual mouth breathing and just how quickly the damage from it (no one refutes mouth breathing is bad) would set in. Nestor and a colleague, a Swedish breathing therapist, proceeded to monitor all kinds of data sets in phase one (with noses completely plugged and breathing solely by mouth) and again in phase two (with mouths taped and breathing solely through the nose).

There were many data points, but some effects were immediate. In phase one, one night of mouth breathing jacked snoring up 1,300 percent then even tripled a few days later, blood pressure shot up into stage two hypertension, sleep apnea came on, stress levels spiked, and cognitive scores lowered significantly. His colleague’s scores were even worse.

In phase two as they switched to nose breathing for the next 10 days, scores dramatically improved. After only two days, his snoring and sleep apnea had completely disappeared (this doesn’t happen for everyone), and his blood pressure lowered by 30 points.

Above left: International bestseller: New York Times Top 10, Wall Street Journal bestseller, Los Angeles Times bestseller

Above right: Award-winning science journalist and author, James Nestor

While this is by no means a formal, randomized control study, but an experiment on two, it is enough to give one pause and take notice, especially all you mouth-breathers out there. Besides sharing the results of this one experiment, the book is jam-packed throughout with information and research from scientists and pulmonauts worldwide.

So how are we ideally supposed to breathe?

BREATHE THROUGH YOUR NOSE

The first rule, according to Nestor, is to breathe through your nose, especially at night. If your nose is congested, find a way to clear it. (That might require professional help). Since breathing is predominantly an unconscious act, begin to pay attention even during the day. Check in to see how are you breathing—by nose or by mouth? During the night, Nestor says to tape your mouth with a bit of surgical tape (with a gentle adhesive) cut to the size of a postage stamp. Think Charlie Chaplin. It is okay if the two sides of your lips are not taped; the middle will be enough to keep you from mouth breathing. At night if we breathe through our mouths, we can become dehydrated. (Ironically, this can cause us to urinate more.) He explains this in more detail, but suffice it to say we lose about 40 percent more humidity if we mouth breathe during the night. So, start with trying to nose breathe at night. Anecdotally, you may find your throat is less parched and your lips less chapped in the morning, just for starters.

But daytime breathing is important, too. Think about how the nose is responsible for filtering and conditioning the air. When we mouth breathe, “we expose our lungs to all kinds of things in the environment that are not good for us, such as toxins, mold, viruses, and bacteria. Breathing through the mouth can also disrupt the oral PH balance, making us more susceptible to cavities and periodontal disease. Added to this, a lack of resistance from mouth breathing can result in our breathing too much and too high in the chest, making it hard to efficiently use oxygen. And if all this is not enough to convince you, studies have shown there are impacts on brain functioning, mostly in the frontal cortex which is associated with decision-making and logic.”

FULL EXHALATION

Next, is full exhalation. While we may take deep inhalations, most people fail to focus on the exhale. The diaphragm, often referred to as the “second heart,” sits beneath the lungs in the shape of an umbrella, lifting during exhalation and dropping back down upon inhalation. Typically, we engage as little as 10 percent of its range when we breathe. Extending our breath to use 50 to 70 percent of this capacity can ease cardiovascular stress. He shares his method to reach this “breathing coordination, when the amount of air that enters us equals the amount that leaves.”

BREATHE SLOWLY

When we are stressed or on hyper alert, you notice breathing becomes more rapid and shallow. Slow breathing at a rate of five to six seconds (even when practiced just five to 10 minutes per day), also known as “resonant breathing” or “coherent breathing,” has been shown to offer the “same benefits as meditation for people who did not want to meditate or yoga for people who did not want to get off the couch. It offered the healing touch of prayer for people who were not religious,” says Nestor. “That would equate to a 5.5-second inhale followed by a 5.5-second exhale, which works out to 5.5 breaths per minute.” (Comparatively, the average is 18 breaths per minute).

Nestor points out the fascinating fact that prayer patterns from various cultures and religions worldwide all adopted this breathing pattern of either 5.5 breaths per minute or close to it. Just two examples are the original Latin version of the rosary, the Catholic prayer cycle of the Ave Maria (at 5.5), and the Buddhist chant of Om Mani Padme Hum as the chant phrase lasts six seconds with a 6-second inhale before it starts again. This is also true in prayers in Hindu, Japanese, African, Hawaiian, Native American and others.

BREATHE LESS

One thing all the medical or freelance pulmonauts Nestor spoke to unanimously agreed upon was, “we are a society of over breathers.” The key to optimal breathing, according to Nestor, is to practice fewer inhales and exhales in a smaller volume. He reminds us breathing less differs from breathing slowly. In this section and an earlier chapter, Nestor also dives into the importance of carbon dioxide, which seems counterintuitive as oxygen gets all the limelight. Carbon dioxide is actually vital in our ability to utilize our oxygen.

CHEW

Our modern diet is filled with overly processed, “convenient” foods. Even health enthusiasts embrace organic smoothies, juices, yogurts, and kefirs. While some of these choices may be good for you and others not, one thing they all have in common is that they are soft. Why should this matter? Our facial muscles, particularly our masseter (the chewing muscle below the ears), are not getting exercised. As a result, these muscles become lax over time. As the bone degrades Nestor notes, “the soft tissue at the back of the throat can droop and lead to airway obstruction, not to mention sagging skin, baggy and hollow eyes, and sallow cheeks.” Yikes!

However, the good news here both for aesthetics and for breathing is that “unlike other bones in our body, the bone that makes up the center of the face, called the maxilla, is comprised of a membrane bone that is highly plastic. The maxilla can remodel and grow denser into our seventies and likely longer. The more we gnaw, the younger we will look and the better we will breathe,” says Nestor.

Bring on the raw carrots!

It is also important for young children to exercise these muscles and chew foods while their facial structure is forming.

SUMMARY

If all this seems confusing, Nestor reminds us what a healthy beneficial breathing pattern should look and feel like: “Everyday breathing should be silent, effortless, subtle, light, rhythmic, and deep.” He adds, “Breathing should be almost imperceptible. So many people overdo it, and that causes so much unnecessary stress and fatigue on the body.”

Toward the end of the book, Nestor offers a variety of techniques he calls “Breathing +.” And like so many of the breathwork workshops focused on various breathing techniques, he reminds us that techniques like “Tummo, Wim Hof Method, and vigorous pranayamas follow a different set of rules for a different purpose. They purposely stress the body in a controlled period of time, working as a pressure valve so that the rest of the day and night we can be calm, controlled, and breathing softly and comfortably.”

The best news, says Nestor, “is that breathing methods are free, easy, and available to anyone who cares to use them. Healthy breathing, like so much else in health and wellness, ultimately comes down to awareness and willpower.”

You will never think about your nose and your breathing the same way again after reading this book. Nestor unravels breath’s mysteries and details interesting techniques to try. He quotes his doctor, Nayek, “The nose is the silent warrior, the gatekeeper of our bodies, pharmacist to our minds, and weathervane to our emotions.”

How could we have underestimated or even ignored it all this time? In breathing, for each of us as well as for those who study science, medicine, and athletic endurance and performance, it turns out, there is still much to explore. Nestor has raised our awareness, inspired and informed us, and opened that door. Thank you for that.

Note: Nothing in this article constitutes medical advice. Please consult your health practitioner if you have questions or have respiratory or sleep conditions that require professional advice.

Aubrey Brewster, a bon vivant and man-about-town, is a. product of his environment. His affinity for cooking, fashion, and entertaining was inherited from summer vacations shared in Charleston, West Virginia with his southern belle model-turned-hostess grandmother. It should come with no surprise that Brewster followed in his grandmother’s footsteps, with an inherent talent for hosting legendary parties. He is often listed among San Francisco’s best dressed. Aubrey is a San Francisco native, traveler, and food and lifestyle blogger (aubreyabouttown.com). He resides in San Francisco with his husband, Edward. Aubrey can be found enjoying afternoons lunching with friends at Neiman Marcus and some of San Francisco’s favorite haunts when not hosting or attending events.

AUBREY ABOUT TOWN

The joy of holiday giving

BY AUBREY BREWSTER

ONE THING THAT ALWAYS BRINGS JOY IN LIFE IS GIVING. Whether it’s putting together a care package to cheer up a friend who is going through a rough patch, baking something special to show that someone is thinking of you, or finding the perfect gift one absolutely knows the recipient would love, the art of giving is something that brings joy to both the recipient and the giver alike.

For some, searching out the perfect holiday gift may often be met with a feeling of certain dread. Will they enjoy it? Is it their size or style? Over the years, I’ve gained a bit of wisdom when it comes to the art of giving, and I’ve learned that successful gifts break down into three criteria that can be answered with three questions: 1) is it indulgent, 2) is it useful, or 3) is it both?

If you can recruit help and organize your gift giving to ease the process, even better!

With Neiman Marcus San Francisco, and my other home, the Rotunda restaurant (or just “Ro”), celebrating their 40th anniversary on November 4 (my stars, I’ve been shopping at Neiman’s my whole life), I felt it fitting to share my tradition with Neiman Marcus (NM) in making giving both heartfelt and effortless.

I find it essential to put everything in a spreadsheet with each item listed by recipient name, address, gift name, SKU number, size, and price to easily keep track of who’s receiving what. It’s a shopping list to print for reference while you or the sales associate shop. For over a decade, the executive management at Neiman Marcus San Francisco have personally shopped all my gifts, wrapped them with a personal note from Ed and me, and shipped them out, freeing up my time for hosting holiday festivities.

Every year around mid-November, NM emails me the spreadsheet from the previous year for me to edit, adding new friends and what I wish to send. Then the merriment begins! I’ll get an early start, browsing NM, exploring their latest goods, taking

pictures, and adding them to the holiday spreadsheet. After a quick email with the spreadsheet attached, the marvelous elf at NM (aka Dekoa Field, executive assistant to Mark Sullivan, vice president and general manager) gets shopping, wrapping, and shipping!

This holiday season, NM launched their new Winter Wonderland pop-up gift shop located in the posh Penthouse on 5 where, along with store management, I’ll be proudly hosting this year’s VIP holiday cocktail party for San Francisco’s most celebrated luminaries, complete with a champagne cart I customordered from the UK and—wink—a visit from the big man himself, jolly ol’ Saint Nick. The little ones can meet Santa Claus in person on December 11 and 18 at the Rotunda’s Breakfast with Santa, offering menus with kid-friendly and haute cuisine (for the grownups) curated by the Ro’s executive chef, Erik Harrelson, a photo with Santa, and a gingerbread man cookie decorating kit.

The event is loaded with everything holiday, from bobbles for the tree, tabletop accessories, and gourmet foods to gifts for the technophile. There’s even a giant snow globe photo-op to stand in for the perfect picture for social media or the family’s Christmas card! With Sullivan’s British heritage, NM added a fabulous selection (the largest I’ve seen in SF) of premium traditional English Christmas crackers to amuse guests at your Christmas dinner table.

Over the years, some gift selections have become beloved traditions among our friends, from NM’s annual popcorn tin and petite fours to the famed and exclusive to the NM lemon vodka Bundt cake which, sadly, is no longer available from the original bakery due to its closure from COVID-19. (The new vendor’s recipe just isn’t the same, but a little reindeer told me that they’re working to fix that in the future.) There have been standout gifts along the way that I’m delighted to share! My top five are:

Aubrey’s Christmas gifts from Neiman Marcus San Francisco

Aubrey About Town’s Aubrey Brewster

1Cotton Bedhead Pajamas

Given to my lady friends, these indulgent and useful pajamas are always a welcomed gift and one of the most talked-about. I pair them with a box of Tea Forté or fine chocolates to further the indulgence. They’re cozy, fun, and available in a plethora of whimsical everyday and holiday patterns. You’re sure to find the perfect pajamas for the lucky recipient’s lifestyle. A group of girlfriends and I often meet in Paris for fashion week, but during COVID-19 when travel was restricted, I found a fun way for us to reminisce with Bedhead’s Parisienne-themed pajamas! Along boxes of French chocolates, the ladies were swept away (if only in their imaginations) back to the City of Lights. My friends, Sonya Molodetskaya, Sophie Azouaou, and Farah Makras, find comfort in their pajamas regularly. The Bedhead Parisienne PJs were basically Farah’s most treasured comforts when she was recovering from from illness. C’est l’amour! For those friends with fur babies, Bedhead also has a line of matching PJs to complete the look.

The

Neiman Marcus V-Neck Cashmere Sweater and NM Sweater Jackets

For the gentlemen, this is a classic, and my Ed has them in every color. They fit most body types, are elegant and classy, and cross all ages. When paired with a tee shirt underneath, they refine the casual. Over a button-up shirt, they elevate a man’s style. Each season, they come in a new variety of colors, so it makes for a fun tradition to collect them. My dear friend, Dr. Cal Lin, is a huge SF Giants fan. Whenever he goes to a night game, he only wears his orange cashmere sweater to show his team spirit. It keeps him cozy during those cool ballpark evenings. Worn under a NM sweater jacket, the sweater is perfect for layering during San Francisco winters.

Ladies BedHead pajamas, Model: Jenn, courtesy LOOK Model Agency

Men’s NM cashmere V-neck sweaters

Aubrey Brewster in NM’s giant snow globe

4The Neiman Marcus Annual Popcorn Tin

I’ve been giving the NM annual popcorn tin every Christmas for longer than I can remember or, at the very least, since Neiman Marcus started doing my holiday shopping. This massive tin is filled with 24 ounces of caramel, 17 ounces of cheddar, and 10 ounces of butter flavored, crisp popcorn. When it arrives in a huge Neiman Marcus box, eyes light up. It’s hard to wait for Christmas morning to tear it open! Each flavor is packaged in a separate bag for optimal freshness. This is the perfect family snack to accompany Hallmark Channel holiday movie binges or cuddling by the fire. It’s best when shared with the ones you love and even better with a Baccarat glass of eggnog! Popcorn is such a hit that I’ve broadened to giving NM’s almond pecan candied popcorn (packed in a cute, painted tin with a handle) for those with a sweet tooth and the Wabash Valley Farms® Christmas tree-shaped popcorn advent calendar—a tasty way to count down to Christmas.

The “Dallas” Assorted Double OldFashioned Baccarat Crystal Glasses

These are an elegant homage to Neiman Marcus’ Dallas roots and perfect for the friend who enjoys a drink (or 12). This crystal glassware is stunning and not just for whiskey. At first sight, each of four Baccarat crystal double old-fashioned glasses in the set looks the same, but at a closer glance, you’ll notice that the band on each is unique, so guests will always know which glasses are theirs. Beautifully packed in Baccarat’s iconic red box, each set contains four tumblers: the Etna, Gloria, Vega, and Biba. They have good weight in the hand (trust me, these bad boys have some heft), and the size is perfect for a generous pour (12 ounces). I love to gift a bottle of fully loaded homemade eggnog, bourbon, or tequila with them, so friends may get the Christmas spirit going right away. There’s no way more chic to serve those holiday libations! Made in France.

Kid’s

Scooter

player, enabling the

red scooter is tricked out!

NM Popcorn gifts, Models: Jenn & Justin, courtesy LOOK Model Agency

Kids ‘Best to Ride’ Vespa 12v Scooter, Model: Augustine is wearing Books to Bed “Twas the Night Before Christmas” printed pajamas and book gift set (book not shown)

The “Dallas” Baccarat tumblers, set of 4

Giving expensive and elegant gifts are nice, but there isn’t a more heartfelt gift than something you made yourself. My “Ultimate Everything Chocolate Chip Cookies” are both indulgent and always welcome. This may be the last chocolate chip cookie recipe you’ll ever need. During shelter-inplace from the beginning of the pandemic and through earlier this year, I baked nearly 700 dozen of these addicting sweets for friends and family. Even Mayor London Breed had her share. They’re buttery, intensely chocolatey and have a nutty crunch, a sweet and tart chew, and a creamy finish, all encased in a cookie with the perfect balance of crisp and chewy. These are always a welcomed treat. For those who don’t fancy chocolate (I wouldn’t dare say who, right, editor-in-chief Teresa Rodriguez?) and do prefer tropical flavors, check out the dreamy “Tropical-Chip” version in the variation section below.

AUBREY’S “ULTIMATE EVERYTHING” CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE

Source: AubreyAboutTown.com

Aubrey’s Ultimate Everything chocolate chip cookies

INGREDIENTS

~ 5 cups all purpose flour

~ 2 cups butter, softened

~ 4 large eggs, room temperature

~ 4 cups semisweet chocolate chips

~ 2 cups white chocolate chips

~ 2 cups butterscotch morsels

~ 11/2 cups unbleached granulated sugar

~ 11/2 cups light brown sugar (firmly packed) ~ 11/2 cups pecans, roughly chopped

INSTRUCTIONS

2 oz scoop and 1 oz scoop yields a 3”x1” or 1-1/2”x1/2” cookie, respectively

VARIATION: TROPICAL-CHIP COOKIE

Follow the recipe for the “Ultimate Everything” chocolate chip cookies, but replace all the chips, fruit, and nuts with 4 cups white chocolate chips, 3 cups diced candied dried pineapple chunks, 3 cups chopped macadamia nuts, 2 cups butterscotch morsels, 1½ cups sweetened flaked (not shredded) coconut, and 1½ cups dried cranberries or diced dried mango. Add 1 teaspoon rum extract when adding the vanilla (in addition to the vanilla extract in the recipe).

~ 11/2 cups walnuts, roughly chopped

~ 11/2 cups dried cranberries (I use Ocean Spray Craisins®)

~ 1 cup sweetened flaked coconut, packed

~ 3 teaspoons vanilla extract

~ 2 teaspoons baking soda

~ 2 teaspoons kosher salt

~ ½ teaspoon instant espresso powder (optional— the scant amount of espresso powder enhances the chocolate flavor without adding a coffee flavor)

1. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, and kosher salt until well combined. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, toss to combine semisweet and white chocolate chips, butterscotch morsels, the chopped pecans and walnuts, dried cranberries, and flaked coconut. Set aside.

3. In the bowl of a standing mixer and using the paddle attachment, cream together softened butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar. Beat on medium speed 2½ minutes or until light and fluffy.

4. Add vanilla extract. And add eggs one at a time, beating until incorporated (about 1 minute).

5. Using a ½-cup measuring cup as a scoop, with the mixer set to low, add the flour mixture one scoop at a time, blending after each addition and scraping the side and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula to fully incorporate.

6. Remove bowl from mixer stand and scrape off the paddle with the rubber spatula.

7. With a strong rubber spatula or wooden spoon, fold the tossed chocolate chips and nuts mixture into the dough. Mix well to fully incorporate.

8. Transfer the prepared cookie dough to a smaller bowl, press a sheet of plastic wrap to the surface of the cookie dough to insure it’s airtight.

9. Refrigerate 3 hours or overnight.

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

2. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper or a silicone liner.

3. Using a 2-ounce (¼ cup) quick-release ice cream scoop (for small tea/party sized cookies, see the recipe notes below), scoop cookie dough onto parchment-lined 12-inch x 15½-inch sheet pan two inches apart. Each sheet should hold six cookies (three cookies lengthwise and two across).

4. Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 14 minutes, remove sheet pans from oven, and allow to cool on the pans for 5 minutes. Transfer cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

5. Repeat steps 2, 3, and 4, keeping the cookie dough refrigerated between scooping and allowing sheet pans to cool completely before scooping dough onto sheet pans (about 8 minutes or the time it takes to bake a batch; using two or three pans, you may queue them so there will always be a cooled pan available).

6. Allow chocolate chip cookies to completely cool and harden before packing and storing. To gift cookies, stack cooled cookies in gift tins or cellophane bags tied closed with a ribbon. Or store in a cookie jar or an airtight container. Makes 42 cookies.

~ These petite, 2-bite versions are excellent for tea, parties, small goodie bags, or sharing with a group.

~ A 2-ounce ice cream scoop and 1-ounce cookie scoop yield a 3-inch by 1-inch inch cookie and a 2½-inch by ½-inch cookie, respectively.

~ To prepare tea-sized cookies, prepare the cookie dough as directed above.

~ Using a 1-ounce cookie scoop (see size difference in the photo), scoop the cookie dough onto parchment-lined, 12-inch by 15½-inch sheet pan two inches apart. Each sheet pan holds 12 tea-sized cookies (four cookies lengthwise, three across).

~ Bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 8 minutes, remove sheet pans from the oven, and allow to cool on the sheet pan for 5 minutes. Transfer cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Continue with steps 5 and 6 as directed above. Makes 124 2½-inch by ½-inch cookies.

These are the cookies that Santa wants for Christmas!

California Lifestyle Collection

Serene Wine Country Estate

This enchanting, gated estate in St. Helena o ers resort-like living, privacy, and the best of Wine Country at your door. Located next to the renowned Meadowood Resort, the residence is located on two legally separate parcels totaling 12.13± acres on an undulating knoll with sprawling grounds and mature gardens in a park-like oasis. Approached through a Mediterranean-inspired central courtyard with fountain, the grand yet understated 6,800± sq. ft. home combines contemporary design with timeless California architecture. The residence is an entertainer’s dream, featuring six bedrooms, seven and one-half baths, stately living and dining rooms with soaring vaulted ceilings, and a true gourmet chef’s kitchen that has been graced by the likes of Thomas Keller and other culinary masters. The primary bedroom rivals that of a five-star hotel suite, featuring dramatic vaulted ceilings, a fireplace, lounge area, walk-in closets and a spa-worthy bathroom complete with both indoor and outdoor showers. Adjacent to the main living areas are expansive Ironwood decks, terraces, and an outdoor dining pavilion with a modern twist on the classic California barn silhouette. Beyond is a 55-foot infinity edge swimming pool with spa and a cascading

stone waterfall façade best viewed from the two private ensuite Casitas nearby. Additional highlights include a home gym/guest house, a 1,300-bottle wine vault, boccie court, built-in children’s bunk room, meandering garden pathways, vegetables gardens, a twelve-car motor court, and custom lighting throughout. The second parcel has a separate APN and is suitable for a private residence or guest house compound. Located approximately 1.6 miles to the center of downtown St. Helena bustling with restaurants, art galleries, wineries, boutiques and more, this serene Wine Country estate offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for the most discerning of buyers

Oakwood Lane, St. Helena, CA |

Entering the stately iron gate and tall Italian cypress tree-lined driveway, you will nd this enchanting private vineyard estate prominently sited on 41.76± acres in the Atlas Peak wine region with 30± acres of high-quality vineyard with the best soil. Complexed wines grow on Soda Canyon peak, known for the best rocky soil with undulating elevations. The vineyard includes 18.45± acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 4.23± acres of Merlot, 2.88± acres of Malbec, 1.33± acres of Zinfandel, 1.98± acres of Sauvignon Blanc, 0.87± acre of Tempranillo and 1.42± acres ready for replant. This spacious 5,487± squarefoot residence with timeless wine country architecture features ve bedrooms, four baths over three oors with large windows in each room facing the panoramic views of vineyard, hills, natural and beyond, and the bright sunlight shines through every room and brings the warmth and charm of wine country living. The open kitchen features the nest materials with a large granite countertop island with a dining bar. The formal dining area faces the magni cent view of the vineyards, a perfect place for hosting dinner events

and gatherings. Enjoy a glass of wine in the living room, with replace and attached large deck showcasing the panoramic vineyard view and the dramatic vistas of the sunrise and sunset over vineyards. The Master bedroom located at the end of the hall on the second oor features a marble bathroom, walk-in closets, replace, and large windows facing the dramatic view of vineyards and beyond, bringing privacy, peace, and tranquility. The two guest bedrooms located at the other end of the hall on the second oor each feature a bathroom. Two more bedrooms on the third- oor feature vaulted ceilings and panoramic views of the hills and vineyard. There is a wine cellar, 2-car garage and a laundry room. There is also a separate red barn which serves as an o ce building for vineyard manager and sta . The home is equipped with AT&T Fiber high speed internet and security cameras in front and back of the house, as well as the basement. The grapes produced at this vineyard are sold to prime wineries in Napa Valley.

3265 Soda Canyon Road, Napa | 3265SodaCanyon.com

Featured in Architectural Digest, this world-class residence showcases panoramic views of the San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate Bridge, the entire city skyline of San Francisco, and Sausalito. This magnificent masterpiece in a dramatic setting on the most prestigious location is comprised of a ±8,131 sq .ft. home on a ±0.67 acre lot, featuring 4 bedrooms and 5.5 baths. This architectural work of art was designed by architect Charles Gwathmey, with spectacular outlooks from every corner of the expansive 4-level o or plan. The primarily vertical organization of this house takes advantage of its sloped site on the southern coast of Belvedere Island. The uppermost level contains a 3-car garage with glass doors, an elevator which descends to a courtyard, a detached one bedroom, one bath guesthouse and a spacious wine cellar. The remaining levels of the main house are situated between two large retaining walls, which follow the natural contours of the site and splay outwards towards the Bay. The house’s compact organization within the precinct formed by

the retaining walls ensures privacy. An interior circular stair winds around an elevator and forms the cylindrical focal point of the house’s massing. A barrel-vaulted ceiling articulates the living and dining room at the entry level of the main house, and a large deck projects towards the Bay to extend the space into the landscape. 3 bedrooms, 3 baths, a study and a two-story entertainment room occupy the intermediate oors, while a media room, a beautiful wet bar, a full bath with steam shower and sauna on the lowest level open onto a spacious outdoor terrace with a pool, whose “in nity edge” of water establishes a poetic connection to the Bay. The interior oors are limestone and wide plank, Bubinga wood and cabinets are lightly stained maple. The exterior is clad in gray stained cedar, with a curved standing seam zinc roof. All exterior windows, doors and decks are teak, all terraces are beige/gray amed limestone pavers and the retaining walls are painted warm white stucco.

More photos and information can be found at: 445BelvedereAve.com