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IMPROVEMENT AND REPAIRS
CHARRED WOOD FOR A
FIERY FINISH U.S. $7.95 CAN $9.95
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ISSUE #6 NOV/DEC 2021
HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com
INSIDE FIRST THINGS FIRST FOR DECK CONSTRUCTION HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE HARDWARE SHOW BUILDING WITH POCKET HOLE JOINERY STEP BY STEP: REPAIR A TUB SPOUT DIVERTER
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TM
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INSIDE: 06 09 24 Cover photo courtesy of Thermory USA
30 COVER FEATURE
CHARRED WOOD FOR A FIERY FINISH
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SKILL LEVEL
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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER START SMART • HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE HARDWARE SHOW • NEWS WIRE • ASK MATT SKILL SET BUILDING WITH POCKET HOLE JOINERY FIRST THINGS FIRST FOR DECK CONSTRUCTION FROM METHODS OF CONSTRUCTION TO COST CONSIDERATIONS, A LOT GOES INTO PLANNING A DECK THAT YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT STEP-BY-STEP HANDBOOK REPAIR A TUB SPOUT DIVERTER
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KNOW YOUR SKILL LEVEL: LEVEL 1 EVEN FIRST-TIMERS CAN PULL THIS OFF LEVEL 2 WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS AND A LITTLE RESEARCH, YOU CAN DO THE JOB LEVEL 3 THESE CHALLENGING PROJECTS ARE FOR EXPERIENCED DIY’ERS LEVEL 4 DUE TO THE SIZE OF THE JOB, THE EQUIPMENT OR SPECIAL SKILLS REQUIRED, IT’S BEST TO CALL A PRO
Home Improvement and Repairs | The Holiday Issue
SKILL LEVEL
SKILL LEVEL
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LETTER FROM MATT WEBER
I doubt it’s shocking news to anyone reading this magazine, but home renovations have been known to strain relationships. According to a recent HomeAdvisor survey of nearly 1,000 homeowners, 39 percent regretted working on a project with their partner. When taking on a project with a partner, the biggest reported challenges were 1. Staying on budget 2. Having different tastes in styles 3. Agreeing on a shared vision. Agreeing to or staying on a budget was an issue for 80 percent of couples. Among the findings, 71 percent say they compromise on almost everything during the project. Of course, that leaves 29 percent who don’t compromise, which could explain the disharmony. And according to respondents, 65 percent of women say they are the primary decision-maker versus 63 percent of men, which seems fairly even to me. My biggest takeaway from the report is that these homeowners
PUBLISHER JEREMY HOLLINGSWORTH jeremy@HIRpub.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MATT WEBER matt@HIRpub.com
likely took on their projects having watched cable TV home shows that skip over a lot of the toil involved with home improvement to focus instead on the glory of the finished project. That’s reality TV, but it’s not reality. Home remodeling is hard work that requires great skill, patience, labor and tools. I’ve learned that every project will inevitably take longer and involve more work than it should. Each project is different and will have its own set of on-site challenges that are unique to the construction of the home, and these are the bugaboos that will test your patience and strain your relationships. When embarking on a project, you should hope for the best but expect the worst, and when planning, you must allocate budget and extra time to accommodate those unforeseen challenges. Plan this in advance, then if you’re one of the lucky few who sail through the project with no hiccups, you’ll have come in under budget and in less time than you expected
ADVISORY BOARD JEFF WINKLE CHIP LOVELADY JIM BUTTERS KATHY ZIPRIK MARK CLEMENT ROB ROBILLARD LARRY CLEMENT
(give yourself a bonus) … but don’t count on it. Also, know where to draw the line in terms of your skillset and available tools. I’m lucky enough to have accrued all sorts of tools over the years but still know my limitations. I’m not fond of working at heights, so I limit my ladder time. I shy away from heavy electrical work, and I stink at finishing drywall. These are just a few of my weak spots, and those will be the projects where I call in a contractor, rather than get in “over my head” and spread my aggravation throughout the household. In the end, I figure it’s easier to find a contractor than to find a new spouse.
EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTERS CARTER SWIFT TOM MATTHEWS COPY EDITOR DIANE WEBER
CREATIVE DIRECTOR WESLEY GLASSCO wesley@HIRpub.com
AD DESIGN/COORDINATION SPECIALIZED MEDIA SERVICES, INC. ads@HIRpub.com PRODUCTION MANAGER SHANNA QUIGLEY ONLINE/SOCIAL MEDIA DEVELOPMENT GLORIA BERRIO
Home Improvement & Repairs is published by Pine Mountain Media Group LLC, 130 Inverness Plaza, Suite 226, Birmingham, AL 35242. All rights reserved. Neither this publication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without permission. The editorial content is intended to explain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products, materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations change. We assume no liability for omissions, errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exercise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations that may apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if in doubt about any procedures.
PINE MOUNTAIN MEDIA GROUP LLC
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STARTSMART HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE HARDWARE SHOW TOOL AND PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE 2021 NATIONAL HARDWARE SHOW IN LAS VEGAS, NEVADA
1 GRABO MFG: Grabo WEB: www.grabo.com INFO: The Nemo GRABO is the world's first portable vacuum lifter. When carrying objects without a handle, you no longer have to rely on bulky and complex heavy-lifters or worry about unreliable, manual suction cups for the job. With GRABO you get the best of both worlds and a maximum lifting load of 375 pounds.
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STARTSMART 2 EKOPEL 2K BATHTUB REFINISHING KIT MFG: Ekopel WEB: www.ekopel2k.com INFO: This DIY refinishing kit takes the expense out of bathtub improvement. Perfect for tubs, sinks, showers, the product is fumes-free and made without harmful chemicals. Ekopel’s long-lasting, oil-free glaze never peels. It provides a thick, full-seal coating that restores tub surfaces to a “like new” bright gloss. Free videos take the mystery out of re-glazing, guiding you through the prep, the application, and finishing steps. If you can follow instructions, you can DIY recast your tub in 2 to 4 hours. The kits include a foam roller with covers, scooper boxes, and easy-pouring, safe-to-use Ekopel 2K enamel.
3 THE STINGER PAINT BRUSH MFG: Stinger Brush WEB: www.stingerbrush.com INFO: The Stinger Brush includes an innovative Stinger Tip, a performance applicator which allows for easy release of paint and quick cleanup. Designed especially for cutting in corners and edges, the addition of extended filaments enables better control and excels in the easy release of paint on rough surfaces and heavier material.
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> 4 TRILED MOSQUITO REPELLENT LIGHT BULBS MFG: triLED WEB: www.triled-technology.com INFO: The triLED Technology lighting solutions work as a chemical-free mosquito repellent. The patented 1850k ambiance is engineered to deter mosquitoes within a 150 sq. ft. zone, so you and your family can stop applying unpleasant chemicals on your skin. No chemicals, zapping, or spraying needed.
5 FREEZE MISER MFG: Freeze Miser WEB: www.freezemiser.com INFO: Although the usual winter faucet covers, fabric faucet socks, and the manual drip method can protect an outdoor faucet if temperatures don’t drop too low, they often don’t provide enough protection to prevent pipes and faucets from freezing. Blue Penguin’s Freeze Miser prevents pipe freezing, no matter how cold the temperatures or for how long. It’s made of sturdy brass, stainless steel and cold impact-resistant polypropylene. Unlike the manual drip method that requires a constant rate of water dripping, the engineering of the Freeze Miser releases only the minimal amount of water to prevent your faucet from freezing. Its patented design allows it to sense the internal water temperature, allowing no water to drip until the water temperature drops below 37°F/3°C.
6 TRIGGERFIRE STAPLER MFG: Surebonder WEB: www.surebonder.com INFO: The Surebonder TriggerFire staple gun allows for powerful one-handed stapling without having to squeeze the handle in awkward positions. Simply set the green dial to trigger mode and squeeze the handle. You are now primed to fire a staple with the pull of a trigger. In Normal Mode, simply squeeze the handle to fire (same process as a "normal" staple gun). The TriggerFire feature is handy for use in tight spaces or hard-to-reach places. The gun is compatible with both Surebonder #4 staples and Arrow T50 staples.
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STARTSMART 7 FORNEY EASY WELD 140 MP WELDER MFG: Forney WEB: www.forneyind.com INFO: The Forney Easy Weld 140 MP is a multi-process welder that can easily be switched between MIG, DC TIG and Stick welding. This unit is built tough with an all-metal case and metal wire drive assembly. The Forney Easy Weld 140 MP is big enough to handle two and ten pound rolls of wire, and features infinite voltage and wire feed speed controls to help dial in the perfect weld. With this welder, you can use gas or gasless wire up to .035 inch, and up to 1/8-in. stick electrodes.
8 MR. COOL MFG: Mr. Cool WEB: www.mrcool.com INFO: Mr. Cool is a ductless mini-split air conditioner and heat pump that delivers high-efficiency air comfort anywhere you need it. When it comes to doing it yourself, the MRCOOL 3rd Generation Enhanced DIY is for made you. The included 25-ft. precharged lineset allows you to install this innovative ductless system without special tools, equipment or training. You can control your Mr. Cool anywhere with your Apple or Android smart device and an Internet connection. The new MRCOOL Smart HVAC controller module and app fully support Google Assistant & Amazon Alexa out of the box.
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> 9 MONKEY GRIP MFG: Monkey Grip WEB: www.monkeyrung.com INFO: The Monkey Grip is a hands-free ladder accessory for extension ladders. It keeps your tools handy and saves you trips up and down your ladder, allowing you to maintain three-point contact for safety. The solid aluminum rod is anodized and bright-dipped to eliminate electric current and maximize durability. The Monkey Grip locks securely through the rung of extension ladders featuring a solid rubberized grip, hitch pin and thumb screw. Rated to hold up to 15 lbs.
10 PULSE SHOWER SYSTEMS MFG: PULSE ShowerSpas, Inc. WEB: www.pulseshowerspas.com INFO: Easily upgrade your old shower to a spa-like experience by retrofitting your old faucet with pre-plumbed plumbing fixtures from PULSE ShowerSpas, Inc. The Lanai Shower System (pictured) offers easy drill-less installation, an 8-inch showerhead, three-function handshower, and three PULSE PowerSpray body jets. Use any two functions at the same time. Adjust the handshower height with the integrated slide bar.
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STARTSMART
LABOR SHORTAGE WEAKENS HOUSING SUPPLY AND AFFORDABILITY A lack of skilled construction labor is a key limiting factor for improving housing inventory and affordability, according to a new report by the Home Builders Institute (HBI). Additionally, the report cautions that the required number of construction workers to keep up with demand is approximately 740,000 new workers per year for the next three years. “The construction industry needs more than 61,000 new hires every month if we are to keep up with both industry growth and the loss of workers either through retirement or simply leaving the sector for good,” said HBI president and CEO Ed Brady. “From 2022 through 2024, this total represents a need for an additional 2.2 million new hires for construction. That’s a staggering number.”
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Meanwhile, the report shows home sales outpacing home construction, resulting in growing backlog and supply-chain bottlenecks. More than 12 million new households have been formed since the beginning of 2012, while approximately only 10 million new homes for ownership and rent were built during the same time. “The U.S. is experiencing a historically low supply of homes for sale, especially at the lower price points that newly formed households tend to need,” Brady said. "For residential construction to expand and housing affordability to increase, more skilled building trade workers must be recruited and trained for the home building sector.” The report, based on research of NAHB’s Economics Group, provides an overview of the state of the
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> nation’s construction labor market. Other key findings include: • The number of open construction sector jobs currently averages between 300,000 to 400,000 each month. • Half of payroll workers in construction earn more than $50,460 annually and the top 25% make at least $71,000. In comparison, the U.S. median wage is $49,150 while the top 25% make at least $67,410. • Construction employment currently totals 7.42 million. Residential construction represents 3.1 million of this total amount.
• Self-employment in construction is currently 22% of the labor force, down from 26% in 2010. • The share of immigrants in construction trades is 30%. • Women make up a slightly growing share of the construction employment, up to 10.9% in 2020 from 10.3% in 2019. • The median age of construction workers is 41. However, due to aging trends, the share of construction workers aged 25 to 54 decreased from 72.2% in 2015 to 69.0% in 2019. Learn more at www.hbi.org
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STARTSMART
HOLIDAY LIGHT HOME INSPECTION As this holiday season kicks off, many of us head outside to hang strings of holiday lights in our yards and on our home exterior. During the process of hanging lights, homeowners also discover important home repair issues. Here are the top seven home issues you can find while hanging holiday lights, courtesy of the basement and foundation experts at Groundworks. 1. Electrical outlets Electrical issues are usually the first problem discovered when hanging light strings. Outdoor outlets exposed to the elements are more likely to become damaged. For example, a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) may have been tripped if a mouse chewed through a wire or the circuit came in contact with water. A loose connection or exposed wiring could result in an electric shock.
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2. Circuit breakers Homeowners may discover issues with the home's circuit breaker box. You might need a diagram of which circuits are connected to which outlets or appliances. This can help you avoid overloading a single circuit. Do the math to find out how many light strands can be plugged in together without overloading the circuits. Remember that LED Christmas lights generally use less electricity, which helps avoid blown fuses. 3. Overgrown shrubs Homeowners may also discover foliage problems on the exterior of the house. Plants should be at least two feet from your house to protect its foundation. If you discover overgrown shrubs, you may want to mark your calendar for March or April, which is the best time to prune bushes. If you have overgrown evergreens,
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> you can give them a light trim around the holidays and use that greenery for home decorations. 4. Roof or gutter issues If you're using a ladder to hang Christmas lights, you'll be able to get a close look at your roof and gutters. You may discover that gutters are clogged and not catching rainwater, causing a situation where water could be pooling right next to your foundation. You might also discover missing shingles on your roof or a sagging roof, two other indications that your home could be at risk for water damage. Address these issues immediately. Avoid additional damage by using light clips on the edge of your gutter while hanging Christmas lights. 5. Chimney separation Your chimney or portions of the house may be out of plumb or starting to tilt. These are signs of foundation problems. The classic test is to hold a string with a small weight on it from the top edge of the house. Because the string will always fall straight downward, you can easily determine if there is a tilt to a portion of the home. For a tilting chimney, you might see a gap where it is pulling away from the house. This can indicate your home is settling unevenly or sinking into the ground. A settling foundation can affect the essential load-bearing structure of your home, so this is not a DIY repair. Consult a foundation expert to help identify the causes of the problems and find the best way to protect your home. The strongest repairs can anchor your foundation to the bedrock below your home, ensuring lifetime stability. 6. Pest damage While hanging light strands on your home, you may also discover various signs of pest damage. Along the eaves, you could find woodpecker holes in need of repair or wasp nests that need removing. Where the house meets the ground, you might find signs of termites or ants that require pesticide. 7. Siding damage or wood rot When hanging lights, you may notice deterioration, damage, or wood rot on your siding or window frames. This means your home could be vulnerable to water damage, which can result in moisture or flooding in your basement or crawl space. As the weather turns cold, the damaged siding could allow water inside the walls, cracking the concrete when it freezes. Start your repairs by replacing rotted wood and repairing the siding. You may also benefit from the additional protection of basement waterproofing or crawlspace encapsulation. Learn more at www.groundworkscompanies.com
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STARTSMART FIRST-YEAR HOME REPAIRS NOT UNCOMMON Buying a new home is an exciting time, but if you're moving into a previously occupied home, you may end up spending over $7,000 to fix mistakes made by a previous homeowner. According to data from a new HomeAdvisor study which surveyed 1,900 homeowners about their experiences: • 85% of homeowners have had to fix at least one problem they were unaware of during the buying process. • On average, new homeowners spend over $7,168 on repairs in the first year alone and $15,489 throughout their time in the home. • The spaces that need the most repairs: 1. Bathroom 2. Kitchen 3. Bedroom • The most common issues that needed repair involved electrical, drainage and roofing. • 44% hired a contractor to handle the repairs and another 35% did the repairs themselves.
NEWSWIRE
CONSTRUCTION CONVENTIONS RETURN TO ORLANDO IN 2022 The NAHB International Builders' Show (IBS) is the premier, once-a-year event that connects, educates and shapes the residential construction industry. The show is a hub for new product launches, construction demos, industry thought-leader sessions, workshops and more. IBS 2022 will take place in-person February 8-10 at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Florida. Learn more at www.buildersshow.com. Co-located with IBS in Orlando will be the Kitchen & Bath Industry Show (KBIS), an interactive platform that showcases the latest products, trends and technologies. One pass will provide access to both exhibits. Learn more at www.kbis.com.
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STARTSMART ASK MATT QUESTION: How can I bend drywall? ANSWER: The thinner the drywall panel (AKA gypsum board), the more it flexes. The 1/4-inch panels can bend to a 5-foot radius. Special high-flex gypsum board has a heavier face paper and a stronger liner paper than regular 1/4-in. drywall. It’s easier to bend and more resistant to cracking from structural changes (typically applied in double layers, with staggered seams). To bend drywall panels to a smaller radius, you can use a paint roller or spray bottle and water to dampen the panel. Allow the panel to lay flat for at least an hour to absorb moisture into the gypsum core. Bend as needed, but be careful because wet drywall is easy to damage. Once it completely dries, the panel will regain its rigidity. (Note: When wetting drywall, use plenty of airflow to dry the boards completely after installation or mildew and mold can develop.) For even tighter curves, you can use a utility knife to score the back of 1/2-in. drywall width-wise to give it more flexibility. Cut the panel to size, then make parallel cuts from edge to edge, spaced 1/2 to 1 inch apart. Break the core at the cuts to create a flexible length of drywall that bends along the paper face.
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Home Improvement and Repairs | The Holiday Issue
QUESTION: Is it possible to plug a generator into a house’s electrical outlet to power the home wiring? ANSWER: Do not use the generator to “backfeed” power into your home electrical system. Trying to power your home’s electrical wiring by “backfeeding”—where you plug the generator into a wall outlet—is very dangerous. You could hurt utility workers and neighbors served by the same transformer. Backfeeding bypasses built-in circuit devices, so you could damage your electronics or start an electrical fire. Need more info? Visit Matt’s blog at HomeImprovementAndRepairs.com.
H
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SKILL SET
By Matt Weber
BUILDING WITH POCKET HOLE JOINERY
A pocket-hole joint can provide a fast and reliable method to join wood together. A pocket hole is drilled at a precise angle and depth to create a pocket for a flathead screw. The pocket screw connects the two pieces of wood, and when used with glue, it forms a strong, permanent joint. The joints are easy to make when using a jig system, even for a DIY’er, but the task first requires setting up the tools. Guide block: The pocket-hole jig has a block that guides a step drill bit into the wood at a specific angle and specific depth to produce an engineered hole to house the screw head. The block is adjustable and should have its drilling depth set according to the thickness of the boards to be joined.
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A basic pocket-hole kit includes a guide block, a step drill bit, a driver bit and pocket screws. The kit shown is made by Kreg Tool.
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SKILL SET Step Drill Bit: The “step” drill bit is so named because it drills in two steps. The bit has a shoulder that bores a large hole to enclose the screw head while a narrow center tip to bores a smaller pilot hole for the threaded screw tip. To accurately stop the drilling depth, a stop collar must be tightened (using a set screw) onto the bit shaft. The setup of the guide block will determine where to position the stop collar on the bit. Pocket Screws: Pocket joints require pocket screws, which have a flat underside head to give clamping pressure to the wood. These case-hardened screws are designed with self-drilling tips that will not split the wood when driven in. The self-tapping screws also eliminate the need to pre-drill the second piece of wood. Note that it’s important to choose the appropriate length of screw based on the thickness of the boards you intend to join. Once you’ve set up the jig, the rest is easy. To make the joint, first clamp the
When joining wood with pocket screws, first step is to drill the pilot hole with a step bit using the jig’s guide block.
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jig in position where you want to drive the screw, then drill the pocket hole with the step bit. Next, apply wood glue to the joint and clamp the mating boards in position. Use a long driver bit (included with the jig) to drive the pocket screw into the hole, completing the joint. There's no need to wait for the glue to dry before continuing with your project. After a little practice, even novice woodworkers will get the hang of making these strong wood joints to build bookshelves, tables, cabinets, chairs and more. HOW TO SET UP A POCKET-HOLE JIG The trickiest part of making pocket holes is the tool setup, which typically requires consulting the instruction manual for specific instructions on where to set the drill bit’s stop collar. Step 1: Use the thumb screw to align the drill-guide block with the marking that indicates the thickness of the material
The second step is to apply glue to the joint and use the kit’s driver bit to fasten the pocket screw into the pocket hole.
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BUILDING WITH POCKET HOLE JOINERY
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being drilled. For example, if you’re about to drill through a 3/4-in. board, align the block at the 3/4-in. mark. Step 2: Refer to the instructions that came with your jig for details about setting the step bit’s stop collar in relation to the jig setting. For example, the instructions for the Kreg Jig explains that if the jig is set at 3/4-in., then the stop collar should be set at 3-9/16 in. from the shoulder of the drill bit. Tighten the collar’s set screw with a hex key.
Using the Auto-Jig from Armor Tool Okay, see those detailed steps and references to instructional manuals that I list in the section above? That method works just fine, but some mad genius at the Armor Tool company came up with a device that automates all those steps in a single fluid motion. As you clamp the board to be drilled into the Auto-Jig, several things happen at once: The wood squares up and is held securely for drilling. The drill block rises to and remains at the appropriate jig setting based on the thickness of the wood being clamped. Furthermore, a collar-holder on the step bit (which is mounted alongside the AutoJig platform) slides the collar to the appropriate stop position, ready for you to tighten it in place. Lastly, the color chart on the side of the drill block matches Armor Tool’s color-coded pocket screws, so you can tell at a glance which screw to grab for the project. In other words, the Auto-Jig combines all the individual setup steps into a single step activated by the press of a lever. In doing so, it eliminates the need to keep referring to a manual, saving time and frustration. If you get into pocket-hole joinery, I recommend picking one up.
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SKILL SET Step3: Select the appropriate screws. Choose from coarse or fine threads to suit either soft or hardwoods. Screw length is critical. The jig’s instructions will offer specific suggestions.
For example, the Kreg instructions recommend using a 1-in. screw to join 1/2-in. material to 1/2in. material. To join 1-1/2- to 1-1/2-in. material, Kreg recommends using a 2-1/2-in. pocket screw.
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After your tools are set up, you’re ready to square up the boards in the jig, clamp everything securely in place, and drill your pocket holes. Once the pocket holes are drilled, you’ll be ready to drive screws and assemble your project. Orient the holes on the sides of the boards which will be less visible when your project is assembled to achieve a fastener-free appearance. H
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TABLE-MAKING TIPS The charred patio table shown measured 6 feet long to match an existing patio bench. It’s a simple recreational table with rugged construction techniques that you can apply to a range of DIY projects around the home.
The table shown is built from 4x4 legs and 1x pine boards. Most of the joints were made with a combination of pocket screws and Titebond 3 wood glue (which I recommend when gluing charred wood).
To build the table with sturdy leg connections, I wrapped the tops of the 4x4s with a 1x4 box apron and inserted carriage bolts to join each leg to the apron.
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BUILDING WITH POCKET HOLE JOINERY
To make the corners of the table more shinfriendly, I used a shot glass as a marking template then rounded off the points with a jigsaw.
I installed four 1x4 cross-braces to strengthen the apron and ensure the table remained square. The cross-braces provide support for the 1x6 tabletop boards.
I added 1x3 stiffeners across the ends of the table-top boards and fastened them with glue and wood screws. Attached beneath the countertop, the 1x3s will keep the board ends aligned and strengthen the table edge. Use plenty of clamps to maintain alignment when attaching the table base to the table top.
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CHARRED WOOD FOR A
FIERY FINISH By Matt Weber
The look of charred wood is a hot trend for home décor. The practice of charring wood, called “Shou Sugi Ban,” originated in Japan centuries ago as a method to preserve cedar siding. These days, this wood-burning technique is now growing in popularity in the U.S. and Canada for its decorative appeal. Demand for this distinctive look is so strong that manufacturers now offer “charred” finishes straight from the factory for house siding and wall décor panels. The procedure involves charring the wood with the flame of a propane torch, then cooling the surface, cleaning it with a wire brush, rinsing off the residue with clean water, and applying a finish coat. The natural durability of Shou Sugi Ban makes it appropriate for interiors or exteriors. It’s an excellent alternative to paints and stains.
The look of charred wood is so “hot” that manufacturers such as Thermory USA offer cladding options prefinished with a Shou Sugi Ban look, which can be used for exterior siding or interior accents.
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SKILL LEVEL
2 MODERATE
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WOOD CHARRING BASICS It should go without saying that working with fire is dangerous, and one should take all precautions to ensure a safe working environment away from combustible materials and with plenty of ventilation. The best way to dive into wood-charring is to experiment, because the practice is as much art as science. Furthermore, different types of wood species will react differently to varying levels of flame exposure, and ultimately the cleaning technique can impart dramatically different effects to the charred surface.
The good news is you don’t need to experiment on expensive lumber. When selecting wood for charring, look for construction-grade softwood lumber, such as pine, spruce and fir, which have a soft grain. After you burn the surface, the cleaning process will scrape out the soft springwood between the bands of woodgrain, and it’s much more difficult to remove that material when working with hardwood. The soft whitewood species are also lighter in color, which works like a blank canvas for the coloration to follow. For the most dramatic charring effect, choose wood pieces with the lightest color available. Grain orientation is also worth noting. When preparing to char, check the board’s end-grain for the growth rings. You should apply the flame to the bark-side of the tree for the most interesting grain pattern. Finally, look for lumber labeled “KD,” which stands for kiln-dried. Wood with high moisture content won’t dry out and therefore won’t work well for the charring technique. Traditional Shou Sugi Ban, which literally translates to “burnt cedar board,” involves tying the boards together in bundles of three to form
It should go without saying that you’ll need a safe place to work with open flame, away from any notably flammable materials.
The first pass with the torch will remove moisture and prep the boards for charring. The second pass will begin to show a change in the wood’s color tone.
Depending on the heat and cleaning technique, you can achieve a broad range of textures and tones. The final product can have a rich, silvery finish, or you might prefer to show off the deep contrast between bands of woodgrain, enhancing the natural beauty. Charred wood resists fire, rot, insects, and can last for decades. This wood-finish application can be used for siding, accent walls, window shutters, wainscoting, column/beam wraps, outdoor benches, and all sorts of creative applications.
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PUT YOUR PERSONAL STAMP ON THE FOCAL POINT OF YOUR KITCHEN
Move the torch along the same direction as the woodgrain. Charring works best with the boards in a vertical position, which may require a ladder to char long boards.
Reposition the boards as necessary to apply heat to all sides and edges.
a triangular chimney, then placing them on-end over a fire, so the flames draw upward and char the inner faces of the boards. Once charred, the boards are removed and cooled with water, stopping the burning process and hardening the blackened, charred surface. The cooled, black surface becomes resistant to sun and rain, insects, rot and fire itself. You’ll need to take a cue from tradition when setting up your work area, because the charring works best on vertically oriented boards as heat draws the flames upward. A welding table can be used to provide a non-flammable working surface, or you can use a wood workbench if you don’t mind the likelihood of char marks. For smaller projects, a Berzomatic torch (propane or MAPP gas) can be used to char the wood surface. For larger projects, a weed torch that connects to a propane tank will produce a larger flame.
BURNING TECHNIQUE Support the workpiece vertically against a bench, then pass the torch flame over the wood surface along the same direction as the woodgrain. Move the flame in a consistent pattern with smooth, even strokes to avoid blotchiness as the wood darkens. Keep the flame the same distance from the wood throughout the process.
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CHARRED WOOD FOR A FIERY FINISH For best results, char and clean the individual parts of your project prior to assembly. Shown to the left, we’ve moved from 1x6 tabletop boards to a 4x4 table leg.
Make a first pass over the entire face of the board. It will have some charring effect, but the first pass basically removes moisture and heats the wood in preparation for the following passes, which will char the grain and springwood. The soft springwood will burn faster and deeper than the hard grain. Note that if you plan to brush out the softwood for a high-contrast grain effect, then you don’t need to burn the wood to the point that it looks like firewood. If you plan to remove the springwood, you only need to blacken the entire board surface.
Charring is only half the process. The wood’s finished appearance will largely be determined by the brushing and cleaning process.
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The resulting finish will depend on the degree to which the surface is burned, or how long the wood is exposed to the flame. For a more blackened end product, a different surface effect can be achieved by charring the wood until it won’t take any more flame. This technique ultimately makes the board surface more fire-retardant but also distorts the surface with a distinct alligatorlike texture. The surface can then be brushed to even the color and then clear-coated to finish. Note that the heat from the flame can distort the shape of the boards and cause bowing, particularly with thinner material, but application of clamps and/or weights and fasteners can usually muscle the boards back into shape when cooling them. CLEANING THE BOARDS Once the wood has been charred, a variety of brushes can be used on the surface for
For a charcoal-textured or “dragon scale” appearance, apply enough heat to fully blacken the wood surface then use a soft-bristle brush to brush away the dust and loose char.
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For a smoother, more uniformly silver appearance, blacken the surface but stop charring when the texture begins to distort. Brush and clean with the soft bristles of a nylon utility brush or even a paint brush.
The stiffer the bristles, the more aggressive the cleaning action. A wire brush can remove bands of soft springwood while leaving rings of darkened hardwood for a high-contrast grain effect.
Charred Shutters Sho Sugi Ban works for interiors and exteriors. For a golden brown, oven-baked color tone, char the boards until barely blackened then brush with a stiff-bristle nylon brush.
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CHARRED WOOD FOR A FIERY FINISH
Power tools can speed the brushing process, such as these Nyalox flap wheel accessories which attach to a drill.
For an artistic effect, combine the high-contrast grain patterns with colorful wood dyes and stains.
different looks and textures. A nylon utility brush works well to remove loose char and achieve a fairly uniform sheen. The stiffer the bristles, the more aggressive the scraping action, which removes more char, revealing the lighter springwood beneath but leaving the dark rings of the harder grain for a higher
contrast. Use wire brushes with bristles of different stiffness (stainless steel, brass, etc.) to vary the tooling effect. Drill-mounted brush attachments can also speed up the process. Use water to rinse off the loose char dust then allow the wood dry completely. TOP COATS After you’ve brushed and cleaned and dried your charred wood, it can then be clear-coated to preserve its natural color or be enhanced with the use of a stain or dye. Brush the colorants onto the wood surface, then wipe off the excess to leave the desired tint. For top coats, try a water-based product such as Polycrylic from MinWax and the thicker Enduro-Var urethane from General Finishes (excellent for coating a fully charred wood surface).
Preserve the charred wood with your finish of choice.
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Charred woodgrain is a great look for wood lovers, a popular décor for homeowners, a new finish that the pros can offer, and a fun hobby for DIY’ers to explore. Give it try, but please be careful. H
Here’s the finished project—a 6’ patio table made of charred pine.
Ignite Cladding Ignite cladding from Thermory USA provides the look of Shou Sugi Ban with durability all the way to the core. And unlike charred wood, Ignite has no messy residue, offering the realistic look of charred wood, without the flames. The cladding is created from thermally-modified wood using a process of heat and steam that enhances the wood’s stability and lessens its weight. Ignite achieves its signature dragon-scale pattern by
embossing, brushing and tinting thermally modified Scots pine. Unlike modern Shou Sugi Ban, which is usually created by hand with a torch, Ignite is created with a deceptively flame-free process. It is also available with only the brushed texture. The thermal modification gives the wood consistent rot resistance throughout the board, a high level of dimensional stability, and a consistent appearance from batch to batch. Learn more at www.thermoryusa.com.
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FROM METHODS OF CONSTRUCTION TO COST CONSIDERATIONS, A LOT GOES INTO PLANNING A DECK THAT YOU MIGHT NOT HAVE THOUGHT ABOUT
FIRST THINGS FIRST FOR DECK CONSTRUCTION By Carter Swift
A nice outdoor living environment tops most homeowner wish lists, and constructing a deck is among the most popular ways to enhance the property. The design of a deck can vary from a small DIY-built structure to a professionally constructed multi-level entertainment space. When planning for construction, there is a lot to consider even when the project is relatively small. LOCATION, LOCATION Where to build your deck is often determined by limitations of the home’s construction, but there are factors to consider as you plan. Inspect the lay of the land and note the slope away from the house where natural drainage will apply. Check that the drainage or downspouts will take the water away from the house foundation and deck footings. Any problems should be immediately rectified to preserve the integrity of the house foundation, whether you move forward with a deck or not. Also, locate and mark any outdoor utilities—electrical, gas or water—to avoid damage during construction. Call 811 to have underground utilities marked for free. Sun exposure and the direction of prevailing winds are two other important issues. Decks exposed directly to the midday sun may not be ideal. The farther south
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Building Inspector Departments typically require two copies of deck plans and drawings to be submitted along with your permit application.
you live, the more exposure to midday sunlight can damage the deck over time from UV rays as well as make time spent there less comfortable for the homeowner. For northern homes, an ideal deck location is southeast or southwest, which can take advantage of midday and evening sun to the west as a way to maximize the heat. In southern regions, a northeast or northwest location will minimize the extreme midday heat but still take advantage of the morning warmth and setting sunlight. In some cases, you can build a deck that wraps around the corner of a house as a compromise. If your deck can’t avoid direct sun exposure, consider
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incorporating an overhead trellis, awning or other roof structure to provide shade. Don’t forget the prevailing winds if you live in a windy area. A strong wind can make time spent on the deck less enjoyable, and if you can’t avoid wind, then consider incorporating a wind screen or railing that acts as a barrier. Permits and regulations might also factor into the deck’s location, and this varies widely depending on where you live. In a small town in Alabama, a building permit to attach a deck to your home may only cost you $25. However, in a city like Chicago, a similar permit might cost thousands to procure. The project’s location can affect those permitting costs too. For example, a permit to construct a deck attached to a home in an Illinois city might cost considerably more money than a permit to build a freestanding deck just a few feet away from the very same home. Do this research ahead of time, because it could affect your design decisions. RED TAPE You’ll usually need to submit two copies of deck plans and drawings to your local Building
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Inspector Department along with your permit application. Applying for a permit can also verify if there are any property easements and make sure the deck plan meets local homeowners’ association (HOA) standards. (In many subdivisions, HOA approval is required before obtaining permits from your building inspector.) In addition to local regulations, your deck plan will likely have to comply with the International Residential Code (IRC), which has been adopted by almost all US states and include guidelines such as Residential PSF Deck Requirements. (For a residential deck, the code requires it be designed to support a minimum 40-psf live load.) COST AND BUDGET In the recent pandemic years, the costs of building materials have fluctuated dramatically. Not only will the size of the deck impact the cost, but its design will affect the materials needed when you factor more intricate features such as multiple levels, stairs, built-in benches and railing systems. All decks higher than 30 inches above grade must have a guardrail at least 36 inches high, although some states and local codes require them to be as high as 42 inches. Factoring all this together, the average cost of building materials for a deck can range between $15 and $38 per square foot. Decking calculators can help you estimate the materials required to build your deck and the associated costs. Simply plug in your desired dimensions to get estimates. Here’s a not-so-secret tip—Decks.com offers deck-building calculators that are free for anyone to use. Visit the site to take advantage of the following:
fasteners. This calculator helps you find how much material you’ll need. Cost of Building a Deck Calculator: The cost to build a deck depends on many factors such as square footage, how elaborate the design is, and type of materials. Plug in your dimensions to get an estimate on the materials cost. Although the calculators provide a rough estimate, these are free to access and should help homeowners formulate a construction budget. The Decks.com site even offers a free deck-designer tool that can produce a downloadable schematic plan, which you can take to your permitting authority. DECK LEDGER VS. FREESTANDING CONSTRUCTION Most of today’s residential deck frames are built of pressure-treated lumber that is intended for ground contact. Decks are usually constructed
Deck Stairs Calculator: Use this to determine the rise and run of your stairs, dimensions, the angle of your staircase, length of stringers and more. Decking Floor Estimator & Calculator: Find out how many deck boards you’ll need or how many screws and hidden
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These days, most contractors prefer to use vinyl flashing to protect the wall behind the ledger, and Z-flashing should be installed over the ledger, running a couple of inches up the wall behind the siding to shed water. Z-flashing is named for its Z-shaped profile.
in one of two ways. The first way is to support one side of the deck with piers, posts and beams while the opposite side is attached to the house using a ledger board. The second method is to build a freestanding deck that is not attached to the house and is instead completely supported by piers, posts and beams.
When attaching a deck to a house, the house siding is often cut and removed, then a ledger board (usually a pressure-treated 2x8 or larger) is anchored to the house wall to support the joists and bolster the deck framing. The joists are fastened to the face of the ledger with metal joist hangers. A ledger board will also need deck flashing, which serves as a moisture barrier to protect the house from any openings made while attaching the board. Proper flashing and ledger-board attachment is critical to building a structurally sound deck that will remain safe for years to come. Without secure attachment and moisture protection, rot can develop and weaken the leverage connection, which is a common cause of collapsed decks and can pose a dangerous hazard to anyone on it or nearby. These days, most contractors prefer to use vinyl flashing to protect the wall behind the ledger, and Z-flashing should be installed over the ledger, running a couple inches up the wall behind the siding to shed water. When mounting a ledger to the house band, 1/2-inch through-bolts or lag screws were once the standard fastener. Today, 1/4-inch structural lag screws (aka Construction Screws) actually hold stronger and have greater shear resistance than lag screws—plus, there is no need to predrill pilot holes because they have self-drilling tips. To fasten the ledger into a solid concrete wall requires 1/2-in. expansion anchors set into the wall at least 2-1/2 inches. Check with your local building department for specific guidance on fastener requirements
Ledger-board spacers present another way to prevent rot. These donut-shaped Deck2Wall spacers are designed to install around the bolts or structural screws between the house and the ledger board to provide an air gap. (Although stacked stainless steel washers can be used as an alternative, ledger-board spacers are easy to install and provide a larger bearing surface area.)
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Some builders install the ledger first, then use it as the basic point of reference for determining footings, posts and all the framing. In areas with heavy snowfalls, it may be desirable to have the finished deck built 1-1/2 inches or so below the door sill. and flashing details. The ledger fasteners should generally be installed in a zigzag pattern to avoid splitting the board along the grain. Never install a ledger board with nails. Not all situations are suited for deck-ledger installation. You should avoid mounting a ledger board to brick or stone veneer exteriors. Attaching a ledger to a hollow concrete block wall also presents problems and requires special epoxy-strengthened anchoring systems. In these situations, consider building a freestanding deck frame. A ground-level deck is a variation on the free-
standing concept where you can create a simple foundation by using concrete blocks to support the deck’s corners. Lay the deck beams on top of the blocks, making sure they’re elevated enough to allow for ventilation. Level the beams to serve as your ground-level deck frame on which to build your platform of joists and decking. (In general, if a deck is closer than 12 inches to the ground, the deck perimeter should be left open for easy airflow to reduce dampness which might otherwise lead to rot. The deck can also be built over gravel for better drainage.)
One of the most secure methods to attach guardrail posts is to fasten the full 4x4 inside the rim joist and adjacent to a deck joist, using through-bolts and washers or structural screws long enough to bridge the full post. Install blocking for added rim strength and to stiffen the guard rails. All guardrails must be built strong enough to withstand 200 lbs. of force anywhere along the top of the rail.
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FIRST THINGS FIRST FOR DECK CONSTRUCTION Attach angle brackets at the corners of a ground-level deck where the joists and beams meet to provide additional support and maintain squareness as you work.
A variety of styles can be used for the railing sections between the posts, but the overarching rule prohibits any openings larger than 4 inches. This rule is to prevent small children from slipping their heads through the railing. (Exception: Stair rails may allow a 6-in. space for the triangle formed by the stair tread.)
Coat your Cuts when Building Outdoors
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SMART MOVES FOR TREATED WOOD Although steel framing is an option, the vast majority of decks built in the USA are framed with pressure-treated lumber. It’s important to use treated wood rated for Ground Contact, which has a higher level of preservative treatment than lumber rated for Above Ground use. (A label affixed to the end of each piece of lumber specifies the use.) Its treatment level makes it better able to withstand long-term contact with soil, but also makes it the best choice for above-ground framing in critical applications such as ledger boards and support posts. Even with chemical treatment, however, framing lumber can be damaged over time from prolonged exposure to the outdoor elements. You or your contractor can reduce such problems in the following ways. Brush a wood preservative onto all saw cuts and into drill holes during construction. Anywhere a blade or bit penetrates the board, the interior woodgrain is exposed to water
Treating end-cuts in pressure-treated lumber is not just a good idea, it’s now a requirement for warranty coverage. New American Wood Protection Association (AWPA) Standards for preserving end-cuts are being referenced by the International Building Code and International Residential Code. This means building codes are changing. If your local municipality has not already adopted the new end-cut application as a requirement to meet building code, then they may do so in the near future. When you make a cut in a piece of pressure-treated lumber, you expose the interior wood fiber to water, fungus and insects that the pressure treatment would otherwise protect against. Sealing the end cuts with an approved liquid preservative becomes an important way to protect your investment. The liquid treatment can be applied to dry wood by sprayer, roller or brush. Backbrushing will help work the product into the wood grain. Allow the treatment to dry, then apply a second coat. Sealing the exposed ends is a simple process that exhibits quality workmanship, but that’s not the only reason to do it. You may not realize that treated-lumber manufacturers back their warranty if the builder follows the best practices for handling and installation, and “best practices” now include treating the field cuts with an approved preservative. Check your product warranty and don’t be surprised if you find indications that read: “Surfaces that have been cut or trimmed and other holes or damage should be treated with a wood preservative end-cut solution in accordance with the label’s directions. Acceptable wood preservatives contain a minimum of 0.675 percent copper as oxine
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and potential rot. Also apply preservative on areas such as knots and defects where moisture can collect. Use corrosion-resistant fasteners. When nailing or screwing near the edge or end of a board, first drill pilot holes to help minimize splitting. Apply flashing tape to the tops of joists and beams. These flat horizontal surfaces can trap moisture, but the rubberized adhesive tape will easily shed water. Consider installing the deck boards with a hidden fastener system. Fastening the decking from the top creates an entry point for moisture on the surface where standing water can penetrate over time. Hidden fastener systems, however, attach deck boards to the joists from the sides or even the bottoms the boards, which means the fastener holes are less susceptible to water pooling from rainfall. Finally, protect the deck with a weather-resistant finish. Any exposed wood, pressure treated or not, needs to be protected from the elements. Apply a high-quality clear coating or semi-transparent stain that contains a water repellent to help minimize the effects of the wood’s moistureabsorption cycles. For maximum protection, the stain/sealer product should be applied soon after construction when the treated wood has completely dried. H
Install blocking or bridging between joists at mid-span to reduce bounce. Install the blocking flush with the top of the deck frame and stagger the material to provide space for nailing the ends.
copper (copper-8 or copper-8-quinolinolate) or 1 percent copper as copper naphthenate.” In other words, if you don’t coat your end cuts with a preservative—and use the correct preservative—then your treated-lumber structure may not be covered by the manufacturer’s warranty. OUTLAST Q8 LOG OIL Are you waiting months for your pressure-treated deck to dry before staining? Did you know that the International Residential Code (IRC) now mandates during construction that you “heal” any drilled holes, abrasion, or end cuts on pressure-treated lumber? Either 1% Copper Naphthenate or .675% Copper 8 quinolinolate (aka Oxine Copper) will satisfy the new requirements. But Outlast Q8 Log Oil with .675% copper is the only warranty-required product that addresses the wait time and the new code. With Q8 Log Oil, you can build it and stain it in the same day with no wait time. In fact, Outlast Q8 Log Oil is spelled out by name by many pressure-treaters themselves. Visit outlastproducts.com.
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S BONU RIAL O T I D E RAGE COVE YOU! FOR
HIDDEN FASTENERS FASTER THAN EVER CAMO Edge Clip fasteners from National Nail are designed to speed up installation for any type of grooved decking, including wood, capstock or PVC. The clips align over the joists with tabs that insert into the grooves of the adjoining deck boards. The clips include a small, plastic Never-Miss Guide to hold each deck screw while you drive the clips into place.
no-mar nose prevents rings or scuffs on the decking. The ClipDrive was specifically designed to install CAMO Universal Deck Clips (Edge Clips, EdgeX Clips, and EdgeXmetal clips for metal joists). Learn more at camofasteners.com
To make the process even faster, National Nail now offers the Camo ClipDrive, an ergonomic and lightweight tool that allows you to stand comfortably while fastening the Edge Clips. It features a height-adjustable handle and a weighted nose, so you can quickly swing the tool from joist to joist and easily target the exposed screw heads. A
LATERAL LOAD CONNECTOR DEVICE One of the more significant code updates for a ledger-supported deck requires the builder to install a positive connection to the house wall to resist lateral loads. This may now be a requirement in your area. Lateral loads can result from earthquakes or from
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people moving around on the deck, and in severe cases, these forces can cause the ledger board to rip away from the house wall and collapse. The easiest way to meet the code requirement is to install four hold-down connectors. You will need to pre-drill and attach these Lshaped metal brackets with a 3/8-in. diameter lag screw that penetrates at least 3-inches into the center of the house wall’s top plate, studs or header. Each connector bracket is then screwed to the bottom of the deck joist. Simson Strong-tie offers the DTT1Z deck tension tie as a solution. Consult local codes to see if a lateral load connection is required, and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when installing deck hardware.
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REPAIR A TUB SPOUT DIVERTER By Tom Matthews In a tub and shower combo, the diverter is the device that switches the flow of water from the tub spout to the shower spout and back again. It is a simple device inside the tub spout that usually consists of a small chrome-plated handle, a plastic gate, and a rubber washer that seats inside the gate. DIVERTER COMPONENTS Over time, the components can wear out or minerals can build up and cause the diverter to malfunction, resulting in leaks or making it difficult to operate. The good news is this is a simple, inexpensive repair that any DIY’er can complete, and it’s not even necessary to shut off the water supply lines. Step 1: With the tub valves turned off, use a sharp utility knife to cut through the silicone seal where the spout meets the shower wall.
Step 2: Turn the spout counter-clockwise to unthread it and remove it from the outlet. If necessary, use a pair of Channellock pliers (while protecting the spout with a cloth) to loosen the connection. Step 3: Hardware stores sell replacement spouts with the diverter preinstalled ($25-$30), however the replacement spouts are often made of a thinner, flimsier metal than the original hardware, so many homeowners prefer to repair the diverter and keep the original spout. Step 4: Inspect the diverter and spout for damage. The washer may have fallen out, the plastic gate may have broken, or the handle might have gotten bent. In the case shown, the gate was intact but limescale and mineral buildup inside the pipe was preventing the gate from opening and closing properly.
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Step 5: Clean the spout thoroughly with an abrasive brush and CLR (calcium, lime, rust remover).
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Step 6: Although the diverter was intact on this spout, the mineral buildup made it inoperable and required more than a simple scrubbing. To solve this problem, I used a sanding drum on a Dremel to grind away the buildup and smooth the interior metal surface so the gate would have less friction, more room, and an easier path to travel. Step 7: The round shape of the drum made it impossible to sand inside the tight corners, but a thinner grinding bit was able to reach the remaining buildup inside the spout. I alternated the sanding/grinding process with repeated applications of CLR until the metal was smooth enough that the gate moved freely up and down by pulling on the handle.
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Step 8: “Tub Spout Diverter Repair Kits” contain a replacement handle, gate and washer, and are available at hardware stores ($5-$7). The plastic gates come in small square sizes or larger oblong sizes (which are more common). The larger sizes can usually be sanded down if necessary to fit inside a spout, but if the gate is too small for your spout, it won’t work. Step 9: If you need to replace the diverter, use needle-nose pliers to snap off one of the ears that clip the gate onto the handle, then slide the handle out of the spout and remove the pieces. Slip the new handle through the spout hole and reassemble the diverter with new gate and washer. Step 10: Before replacing the spout, use a wire brush to remove any leftover gunk or old thread tape from the outlet connection.
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Step 11: Use CLR and a pipe-cleaning brush or similar tool to thoroughly clean the inside and outside of the outlet pipe.
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REPAIR A TUB SPOUT DIVERTER Step 12: Wrap a couple layers of thread-seal tape (in a clockwise direction) over the connection to prevent leaks. Step 13: Screw the spout tightly onto the outlet, orienting the mouth toward the bottom, then seal the wall connection with a quality, flexible caulk/sealant intended for kitchen/bath applications.
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Handy Clog-Clearing Tool Available at most hardware stores, this inexpensive plastic plumbing auger is one of the best $3 or $4 purchases a DIY homeowner is apt to make. The augers are hooked to grab hair and gunk, stiff enough to shove through a pipe, but flexible enough to follow the turns in a P-trap or S-trap. Just unscrew the drain cap to gain access to the opening, then run the auger repeatedly down the pipe along all sides, and rotate the tool as you do. I’ll spare you a photo of the Lovecraftian horror I extracted from the clogged pipe, but take my word for it—these things usually get the job done. - M. Weber
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