TECH TC BROS. HARDTAIL CONVERSION PART II
P O T E T H RCE SOU T HE F OROJE T DYN E R P OWION VIS
OM CUSTADED O PRE -LAPS M I T ED M M I L N U RT FRO O SUPPXPERTS E
SPECIALIZING IN EFI TUNING AND EXHAUST COMPONENTS
920-423-3309
WWW.FUELMOTOUSA.COM
cleaner not only looked great but would provide better airflow to the engine. The SikPipes exhaust checked the box for aggressive! TC Bros. chrome drag bars were paired with Jaybrake hand controls, and a Dakota Digital gauge gave the bike a modern easy-to-read display. Jaybrake grips would help me hang on. A MidUSA headlight was put in place to guide my ride. Since my style was more on the aggressive side, TC Bros. mid-foot controls were chosen. They looked so much cleaner over the stock ones and made sense since I had the drag bars. To provide a little extra cushion TC Bros. had an air ride solo seat kit. The bike was taking on a new shape, so different-sized brake lines were needed, and Magnum Shielding handled that need with a huge selection to choose from. Since the frame is now 2 inches longer, a new BDL belt is needed to convert the 1,200cc of power to the rear Shinko tires. A highly visible Custom Dynamics TruFlex LED lighting strip was used on the side of the license-plate bracket to function as a run/brake light. I used new chrome rotor screws and pulley screws since the stock bolts were dull and unsightly. In addition to all of this I felt the stock gas tank looked too large perched up on top of the frame, so I decided on a smaller Cycle Standard tank and topped it off with an RSD contrast-cut cap. You can also easily spend less than I did on purchasing the bike. Look for one with higher miles or shop salvage bikes that were hit in the rear. You are cutting that part off. Many of your stock parts like hand and foot controls can be used. You can spray paint your tank and fenders to save money. Chrome bolts, paint, and extra powdercoating all add up quickly, and they are not all needed right away. Additions can always be made in the future when the budget allows. I saved for last what I disliked the most, the electric. Luckily it was rather simple. When you initially pull the wire harness from the bike, label the different wires when you clip and disconnect them so you know which one did what. I deleted the turn signals and mounted the ignition switch down lower underneath the oil cooler to simplify things. Using just a headlight and rear run/brake light made for so many less wires. Lay your harness on a table and remove all the wires you no longer need. It was easy to hide them all away and keep the clean,
REAR FENDER MOUNT AND SEAT BRACKET TACK & SEAT PIVOT
The rear fender mount and seat bracket are centered on the frame and tacked into place. The seat kit is equipped with air ride so the mounting of a pivot is required.
REAR FENDER STRUT
With the rear fender lightly tightened in place I chose locations on each side for the struts to be cut to length, tacked, and mounted from frame to fender.
desired look. Electric was complete, everything was tacked in place, and all of the parts and accessories were fitted. To do all the final welds and have everything painted I had to take apart the bike again. The frame was painted gloss black, and I decided to disassemble the engine to have the side covers and top end of the motor painted with a high-heat ceramic gloss black paint. Frame and engine pieces were back from paint. I decided I would like to powdercoat the gas tank and rear fender bright blue. It was cheaper to do than have it painted and actually showed a hint of silver flecks. Since the bike was mocked up, everything went into place with ease and I ended up with exactly what I envisioned. Despite some expected hurdles, this was a great learning experience, and I can now say I built my own bike. It was a very rewarding accomplishment. Every time I am out riding it I get a ton of compliments and questions. People ask what kind of bike it is and who made it. With pride I tell them I made it and that they also can do it! HB
