Great Hotel Bars P 8 August Highlights P 12 Reykjavík Pool Guide P 54 vol.
06 2014
T R AV E L · N AT U R E · N E W S · P E O P L E · C U LT U R E
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Desert Calm
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THE INTIMIDATING WASTELAND NORTH OF VATNAJÖKULL GLACIER WILL LEAVE YOU IN AWE
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Do You Want an Icelandic Tattoo? P 26 Stop Wasting Food P 50
IC E L A N D M AG . C O M YOU R S OU R C E F OR DA I LY N E W S F R OM IC E L A N D, L O C A L T I P S A N D E X P E RT I S E
South Coast, Waterfalls and Glacier Hike Departure: 08:30 Duration: 11 hours Price: 20.900 ISK
Landmannalaugar by bus Departure: 08:30 Duration: 12 hours Price: 19.500 ISK
Golden Circle Departure: 08:30, 10:30, 13:00, 16:15 & 19:00 Duration: 5 - 8.5 hours Price from: 8.000 ISK
Combination tours for those who want to make the most of their day City Sightseeing & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 13.000 ISK
www.grayline.is
The Blue Lagoon & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 12.500 ISK
iceland@grayline.is
City Sightseeing & The Blue Lagoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: Flexible Price: 8.000 ISK
+354 540 1313
Whale Watching Departure: Various Duration: 3 hours Price: 9.000 ISK
South Coast & Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Departure: 08:00 Duration: 14 hours Price: 24.900 ISK
Taste the Saga Departure: 17:30 Duration: 1.5 - 2 hours Price: 5.200 ISK
The Blue Lagoon Departure: Various Duration: Flexible Price: 3.700 ISK Entrance fee can be bought seperatly according to Blue Lagoon price list.
Book your tour now! Contact information – 24 hour booking service • Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 • Bus Terminal, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Contents FROM THE EDITOR
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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
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THE MORE THE MERRIER
H
ow should Iceland handle the rising influx of travelers from abroad? This is a legitimate topic for discussion. However, some voices in the ongoing local debate border on the hysterical. There will be close to one million tourists visiting Iceland in 2014, more than triple the number from 2000. And, as Iceland has a concentrated travel season peaking in the three summer months, up to 500 thousand visitors are expected in that period alone. Obviously this is a pretty steep year-on-year growth. The good news is that the private sector is more or less on top of things. New hotels and hostels are being built, new car rentals and restaurants are sprouting up, and all kinds of new attractions and activities are being created. Not so good are the fly-by-night rogue operators attracted to this boom, but thankfully they are few and far between. What’s much worse is that Iceland’s administration is unfocused and slow to act when it comes to such fundamental priorities as maintaining and developing the road network, securing acceptable facilities at key destinations, and protecting nature preserves. If those issues are not addressed fast and firmly we could be heading for some serious problems. The hysterical—or even hilarious—part of the local discussion is the idea that Iceland is welcoming too many visitors. Iceland is one of the globe’s least-populated countries. We need more people. Permanently would be good, but temporarily will also do. Reykjavík is so much more fun when its population swells during the summer months. If some of the most popular travel sites are too crowded for one’s liking, it’s easy to steer away from them. There are many other stunning waterfalls in Iceland besides Gullfoss, Dettifoss, and Seljalandsfoss. If you have visited during the summer and would like to see the country with fewer people, there is always the winter version. It’s darker and colder, but the geothermal pools are never better than in a raging blizzard, and the northern lights are every bit as spectacular as the midnight sun.
32 Contents 6-18 Lookout 6 Philippe’s Pop-Up Store 8 Great Hotel Bars in Reykjavík 10 Camping on Europe’s Second Largest Glacier 12 Walk on the Wild Side 14-18 Gay Pride, Cultural Night, Jazz Festival, and more highlights ahead 20 Primal Earth This intimidating wasteland north of Vatnajökull glacier will leave you in awe. Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson. 26 A Permanent Souvenir If you want a permanent reminder of your trip to Iceland inked onto your skin, here we present three of the finest tattoo parlours in the country. 32-48 Special Supplement: True North Sitting just below the Arctic Circle, the untamed nature of North Iceland meets some of the country’s lushest green valleys and farming regions. It’s also home to Akureyri, the largest town outside the capital area. 50 Becoming an Eco Warrior Rakel Garðarsdóttir wants the world to stop wasting food and is doing more than just talking about it.
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. EDITOR Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com ADVERTISING SALES: Benedikt Freyr Jónsson benni@icelandmag.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS: Sara McMahon, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Matt Eliason, Jerel Lai, Rakel Garðarsdóttir, Celia Haro Ruiz, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson LAYOUT: Ivan Burkni ON THE COVER: The mountain cabin close to Mt. Kistufell in the central highlands. See feature p. 20 . Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. TALK TO US: hello@icelandmag.com
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54 Take a Dip A guide to Reykjavík’s seven public swimming pools.
ICELAND MAGAZINE is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
58 Iceland Magazine Explains Last call at bars and clubs. How to get to the Blue Lagoon by bus and day trips to Greenland. 62 My Neighbourhood: Old, Green, and Charming Erla Jónsdóttir was born and raised in the charming harbour town of Hafnarfjörður, a fifteen-minute drive from central Reykjavík.
SOUVENIR SHOP SH OP OF TH E YEA R 2 0 1 2
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
www.theviking.is TAX FREE
Lookout
Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson
“pop-up”
POP OVER TO PHILIPPE’S POP-UP STORE Travelers sailing from mainland Europe to Iceland with the ferry Norræna will come ashore in the charming little town of Seyðisfjörður, East Iceland.
The small town is teeming with life during the summer, and that’s when Frenchman Philippe Clause opens his tiny “pop-up” store for business. Philippe designs colourful hooded shawls and scarves under the brand name Esualc (his surname spelled backwards). This summer, the space not only houses Philippe’s design store, but also an art gallery run by American/Icelander Alexander Zaklynsky. Philippe moved from his home in Paris to Reykjavík in 2006. In 2012 he moved again, this time from Reykjavík to Seyðisfjörður, where he now shares a home with a dog named Títa, Freddie the cock, and the hens Britney, Whitney, Rihanna, Beyoncé, and Mariah.
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This summer, the space not only houses Philippe’s design store, but also an art gallery run by American/ Icelander Alexander Zaklynsky.
The pop-up store is open daily from 9 am until 8 pm this summer and is located at Vesturvegur 4. Philippe and Alexander welcome guests with open arms, a freshly brew ed cup of coffee, and a store full of local art and design.
COLOURFUL DESIGN Philippe Clause runs a small pop-up store in Seyðisfjörður town.
E&Co.
ICELANDIC WOOL
WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES We offer clot h i n g & ot her mer ch a nd i s e t h at r em i nd s u s of go o d old Ic el a nd
– Visit our stores: 101 Reykjavík, Akureyri and Haukadal. www.geysir.com –
– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G eysi r, Hau k ada l. w w w.geysi r.com –
Lookout Food & drink
5 POPULAR DOWNTOWN HOTEL BARS With the tourism industry on the rise in Iceland, real estate developers have shown a keen interest in building hotels in central Reykjavík. This development has had its fair share of criticism, but it also has a lot of merits—like all the interesting hotel bars that have opened downtown, where locals and our foreign guests have the opportunity to meet, rub shoulders, and touch glasses. Here is Iceland Magazine’s list of the most popular hotel bars in downtown Reykjavík.
HOTEL BARS are a great place for locals and our foreign guests to meet, rub shoulders, and touch glasses. Photo/Kex Hostel
1 SLIPPBARINN Slippbarinn is situated in the Hotel Marina and overlooks the harbour. It´s a popular place for aperitifs and easily accommodates large groups. When it comes to the décor, Scandinavian design was clearly the inspiration for the bar; it’s simple yet colourful and functional. Crowd: Local and international. A little tip: Try one of their gin cocktails. Happy hour: Every day between 4 pm and 6 pm. Beer 500 kr. Wine 500 kr.
2 MICRO BAR Micro Bar is situated inside the City Centre Hotel on Austurstræti Street. It’s a small space, decorated with artwork by
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cartoonist and artist Hugleikur Dagsson. It has a great selection of local and international microbrews for beer connoisseurs to enjoy, and the staff is friendly and chatty. Crowd: Popular with tourists and beer connoisseurs. A little tip: Ask the bartender to recommend you a beer. They know what they’re talking about. Happy hour: Every day between 5 pm and 8 pm. Beer 500 kr.
3 LOFT Loft is situated in Loft Hostel, the latest addition to Reykjavík‘s hostel flora. It’s nice and spacious and the roof terrace has an amazing view over the city centre. Crowd: Pretty much anyone and everyone.
A little tip: This place is perfect for larger groups or people with children. Happy hour: Between 4 pm and 8 pm. Beer 500 kr.
4 BUNK BAR Bunk Bar is situated inside the Reykjavík Backpackers hostel on Laugavegur shopping street. Designed like a mountain hut, complete with wooden walls and a wild boar‘s head. Bunk Bar has a great selection of beers and tequila. Crowd: A mix between hostel guests and locals. A little tip: They serve great nachos for munching while enjoying your beer. Happy hour: Every day between 4 pm and 8 pm. Beer 495 kr. Wine 700 kr.
5 KEX Kexið is what you could call the epitome of quirky hipsterism. Situated in what used to be a cookie factory—with a fantastic view of the bay—the bar offers tasty craft beers on draft and bistro-style food in case you get peckish. Crowd: Members of the city council, hostel guests and hipsters. A little tip: Kexið has a large outdoor patio and a little park out back, which are worth a visit during summer. Happy hour: No.
Go home witthh a story wor sharing!
Open everyday from 8am-10pm
Rafting
Ice Climbing Snorkeling
Diving
Glacier Hike Canoeing
Hiking
Climbing
Super-Jeep Caving
Horse Riding Sightseeing Snowmobile Whale Watch ATV
Kayaking
Cycling
Surfing
Boat Ride
Hot Spring
Incentive
Skiing
Mountain Hut Camping
Swimming
Multi Trips
www.adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354-562-7000 | Downtown ReykjavĂk Sales Office Laugavegur Icelandat Mag / VOL. #06 2014 11 I9
Lookout Travel
Absolute Silence & A Million Dollar View
The tourist company Arctic Adventure, offers glacier tours for individuals and groups.
Thrill-seekers now have the chance to spend a night holed up in specially designed glacier tents at the top of Langjökull glacier, Europe’s second largest glacier. “Now tourists can spend an unforgettable night on top of an Icelandic glacier,” explains Ásgeir Höskuldsson, tour guide with Arctic Adventures. The company offers glacier tours for individuals and groups Special super jeeps take passengers to the camp that’s situated 1,200 metres (3937 feet) above sea level. From there people can venture further up the six-hundred-metre-thick glacier and enjoy what is easily described as a jaw-dropping, awe-inspiring panoramic view.
EMBRACING THE COLD Setting up camp at Langjökull.
need to wear hiking boots, warm woollen clothes and insulated outer clothing. According to Ásgeir, a night on the glacier is an experience unrivalled by any other. “There is absolute and complete silence and the experience is quite simply unforgettable.” However, those interested in spending a night on Langjökull glacier need to be well equipped: Sneakers and a hoody will not cut it, people
For more information, visit www.adven tures.is/Iceland/SuperJeeps/SuperJeep SummerTours/DriverGuidedSuperJeep Tours/ArcticGlacierCamp2days/
Welcome to the spacious galleries of Listasafn Árnesinga (LÁ Art Museum) – only 40 min. drive from Reykjavík on the Golden Circle in the geothermal town Hveragerði
July 13th – Sept. 14th Points of Contact, seven Icelandic artist reflect the boom of contemporary art
Listasafn Árnesinga, Austurmörk 21, Hveragerði
Opening hours:
Tel: (+354) 483 1727
Winter: Thur-Sun 12-6 pm
Email: listasaf@listasafnarnesinga.is www.listasafnarnesinga.is
Summer: Daily 12-6 pm Admission: Free
In our souvenir shop you will find Icelandic design inspired by the Northern Lights Designs by: Dimmblá Stál í stál - Jens Volcap Olason paintings Gingó hönnun Svandís Kandís and more Free coffee & tea at our store
Maritime museum CCP
Hotel Marina
The Northern Light Center
Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center
The old harbour Harpan Music hall Reykjavík Art museum Kolaportið fleemarket
www.aurorareykjavik.is
Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík Open every day from 09:00 - 21:00
WALK ON THE WILD SIDE PHOTO BY VILHELM GUNNARSSON
This Japanese tourist was well prepared with an umbrella when negotiating Sólheimajökull glacier, the southwestern outlet of the Mýrdalsjökull icecap. Mýrdalsjökull is home to Katla, one of Iceland’s most feared volcanoes. The mountain, with the magma chamber only 2 km (1.24 m) below the top of Mýrdalsjökull ice cap, is closely monitored. Katla last erupted in 1918. Until then, eruptions at an interval of 13 to 95 years marked its history. So it could blow its top any day now. In July, a small glacial flood occurred, and travelers noticed the smell of sulphuric gases near rivers close to the glacier. JK
Lookout highlights ahead
Fish for you?
Music & dance
Family music festival On August 8 in Patreksfjörður there will be a music festival that caters to the entire family. The festival commences with a musical workshop for children, who will be instructed by professional musicians about instruments. Parents will be able to see the Sigurrós documentary “Heima,” while the kids are busy learning, and later during the day, the band Amiina will give two performances, while pictures by Lotte Reiniger are displayed.
Tradition for Tomorrow enables you to experience a visual and aural feast of Nordic traditional music and dance. The event begins with a Gala Show at Akureyri’s cultural center Hof on Wednesday, August 20 at 8:30 pm. From Thursday through Saturday, the town will be bursting with Nordic life as most venues will be presenting traditional folk music and dance. A festival pass granting access to all the concerts and shows can be purchased online at: www.rha.is/folk/festival/tickets
Fire and ice There will be a fireworks display in Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon on Saturday, August 23 at 11 pm. The fireworks display has been an annual event for the last 14 years and has become quite popular. It is amazing to witness the gorgeous landscape of Jökulsárlón lit up with the myriad bright colors of the fireworks for close to an hour. The entrance fee is 1000 krónur but free for those younger than 12.
Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson
See more about what’s on in Iceland at icelandmag.com
AT THE END OF THE EVENING The festivities reach their zenith when the sky around Reykjavík is filled with a spectacular display of fireworks. Afterwards, for the more adventurous, the events continue until the break of dawn
COME ON IN
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EYKJAVÍK CULTURE NIGHT has become a permanent fixture of the cultural life of Reykja vík for both natives and visitors. It will be held for the nineteenth time this year on the 23rd of August. The theme of Reykjavík Cultural Night is: “Come on in,” invoking the old Icelandic tradition of inviting guests inside and treating them warmly—and this is exactly what happens on Culture Night. People all over the downtown area invite people to come into their homes to have some delicious waffles and hot chocolate. Not many cities in the world can boast that their inhabitants invite total strangers home to eat
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The annual Great Fish Festival in the town of Dalvík will be held on the 9th of August. Both fish producers and locals invite all guests to try, free of charge, traditional Icelandic recipes, as well as fusion style recipes. The seafood buffet lasts from 11:00 to 17:00 in Dalvík’s harbor area. Drinks and bread are also served at this great feast, and there are plenty of other events on the schedule. Come here to enjoy a cozy day in the North.
waffles, but that is the charm of Iceland. Reykjavík Culture Night is essentially an event that takes place all across Reykjavík, both within most of the museums and art galleries of the city but also within the streets, squares, and often even inside residential gardens. Over the course of the day, the downtown area is filled with people from all around the country, as well as numerous tourists, which gives our small city of Reykjavík a metropolitan feeling. During the past years, over 100,000 guests have attended the festivities, and annually the list of events is over 500, making Reykjavík Culture Night one of the largest and most popular events in Iceland. Another factor that makes this day so great is that all the festi val’s events are free of charge. Furthermore, everybody can find something to their liking, since the diversity of events is immense and caters to all age groups.
Marathon Anniversary The Reykjavik Marathon, in cooperation with the Íslandsbanki bank, will be held for the 31st time on Saturday, August 23rd. Participants can choose to run six different routes of varied distances so that everyone is able to participate. The number or runners has increased year by year. In the first year, 1984, just 214 runners from eight different countries took up the challenge. Last year, the number had increased to 14,272, and so far this year, over 6,000 people have registered, including 1,700 foreign nationals from six different countries. The race starts and ends at the same place, at Lækjargata street by the pond, close to the city hall in the center of Reykjavik.
Registration is now open at marathon.is
-the hotel by the riverside, in southern Iceland in the town of Selfoss. We wish you a pleasant stay!
H贸tel SelfoSS
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800 SelfoSS
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tel: +354-480 2500
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www.HotelSelfoSS.IS
Lookout highlights ahead
Small Town Big Music ADHD A four-piece band that consists of old friends and colleagues. They have been working together in various projects and bands for over a decade. Their live shows are organic events and should not be missed. Photo/Guðmundur Eyjólfsson
WITH A SILVER LINING THE 25TH ANNUAL REYKJAVÍK JAZZ FESTI VAL KICKS OFF WITH A BANG ON AUGUST 14TH, when fans and artists performing at the festival join forces and march to Harpa concert hall. The starting point is the legendary local music store Lucky Records
(Rauðarárstígur 10, 101 Reykjavík), with trombonist and MC Samúel M. Samúelsson leading the flock to Harpa, where the opening ceremony will start at 7 pm. Later that night, the Chris Speed Trio will entertain. The aim of the festival is to show case the best in local and
international jazz from a variety of genres, including electronica and world music. The venues include everything from personal home studios to the grand Harpa concert hall. From Thursday August 14 to Wednesday August.
In order to treat yourself, consult the homepage for more information regarding the programme and concert times at: reykjavikjazz.is
If indie rock and alternative music is your thing, you should to head to the North of Iceland or, more specifically, to the town of Sauðarkrókur. From August 14 to 16, the music festival Gæran will be held for the fifth time. During most of the year, the venue is a facility for manufacturing lambskins and nothing much except tanning happens there, but when Gæran is held, the house rocks with great music. The line-up for this year includes many well-known local names on the indie scene as well as up-and-coming bands, including Úlfur Úlfur, Kiriyama Family, Side Road, Beebee and the Bluebirds, and Reykjavíkurdætur.
See mor at gaeran.is
All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:
• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is
Experience real Icelandic cuisine
Bankastræti 2, 101 Reykjavík Tel: (+354) 551 4430 info@laekjarbrekka.is www.laekjarbrekka.is
Let’s be friends!
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Lookout Highlights Ahead
A Proud Day eykjavík has been celebrating Reykjavík Gay Pride since 1998, and what was once a small and inti mate event attended by close rela tives and friends has now become one of the most happening events every summer in Reykja vík. Even though the event has become quite large, it is still warm and friendly. Nowadays this splendid week-long celebration attracts around 100 thousand visitors to the capital. Reykjavík Gay Pride has become more than just a platform for gay and transgender rights, because now it is also a family festival to cele brate diversity and to show solidarity with not only those at home but around the globe. Many in other countries are not as free as people in Iceland, whether due to their sexual preferences or political beliefs. This was demonstrated when the former mayor of Reykjavík, Jón Gnarr, crossdressed to show support for the Russian band Pussy Riot. Although the highlight of the week is the Gay Pride parade itself, there are many other events during the week, including a round table session focusing on gender and whether LGBT advocacy needs more diverse voices within their
OUT AND PROUD Gay Pride has become one of the most happening events in Reykjavík every summer.
ranks. This discussion will be held in English at Loft Hostel, on Friday, the 8th of August at 12 pm. On Tuesday, August 5, there will be a beach volleyball event between city council members and members of the sports society Styrmir and KMK (Women with Women). On the 6th of August, the swimming pool Sundhöll Reykja víkur will host an LGBT-themed party in the pool. There will also be a barbeque with DJs and a Baywatch atmosphere.
Photo/Valli
The opening gala is on Thursday, the 7th of August, at 8:30 pm in Harpa concert hall. Other events include a free showing of the documentary “Stonewall Uprising” on Sunday, August 10, at 6 pm in cinema Bíó Paradís, courtesy of the American Embassy in Iceland. For more information see reykjavikpride.com
EXPERIENCE The Golden Circle Treat yourself to Iceland’s most popular pizza. Call us at 58 12345, we deliver right to your room!
TEL. 58 12345 Iceland Mag / VOL. #06 2014
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Primal Earth
Burnt by volcanoes and stripped naked by the relentless ferocity of long winters, this intimidating wasteland in the central highlands will leave you in awe. Here are 5 things to know about the area north of Vatnajรถkull.
PHOTOS BY VILHELM GUNNARSSON
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DIPPING INTO HELL Ever wanted to say you’ve been to hell and had a bath there? Now you can. An explosion crater called ‘Hell’ (Víti) is just a stone’s throw from Askja caldera. The crater is about 8 meters (26 ft.) deep, and contains sulphurous water that is anywhere from 20°C to 60°C in temperature (68°F to 140°F)— so you must be careful not to burn yourself. The mud bank on the east side of Víti can also get quite hot. There are no changing rooms in the area, so if you’ve been wanting to go skinny-dipping, doing it at Hell is your big chance Iceland Mag / VOL. #06 2014
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MOUNT HERÐUBREIÐ At 1682 meters (5518 ft) Herðubreið is number six of Iceland’s highest mountains, but it tops the bill over the most photogenic.
THE QUEEN Herðubreið Mountain is considered Iceland’s most beautiful mountain by many and is often called the Queen of Icelandic Mountains. The first hike up the mountain was back in 1908, but until then people had thought it was impossible to climb. It’s no easy task, that’s for sure, but the view from the top is mesmerizing. At the base of the mountain are the Herðubreiðarlindir Springs. The springs jump out from underneath volcanic rock and join together to create miniature waterfalls. Many consider this area of the Northeast Highlands to be the most spectacular place in Iceland, as the diversity of the landscape is quite extreme. The area was declared protected in 1974.
“At the base of the mountain are the Herðubreiðarlindir Springs. The springs jump out from underneath volcanic rock and join together to create miniature waterfalls.”
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THE HIGHEST INHABITED PLACE IN ICELAND At 469 meters (1,539 ft) above sea level, the Möðrudalur á Fjöllum farm settlement is the highest inhabited place in the country. The farmers raise livestock, specializing in smoked meat that is sold across the nation. The Möðrudalur farm’s sheep and goats roam free year-round and feed on grass from the highlands, but also have access to hay in cowsheds scattered around the countryside. Visitors to Möðrudalur farm have the option of staying in a traditional 18th-century Ice landic turf-roofed house with wooden gables, or alternatively, pitching a tent at the camping site.
MÖÐRUDALUR Á FJÖLLUM FARM The locals will offer you coffee and food, a roof over your head and will take you on a guided tour around the area if you wish.
From May through September, a café/store/ restaurant is operated at Möðrudalur farm, where visitors can grab some food or wool socks should the Icelandic summer turn into an Icelandic winter (as it sometimes does). In 1949, a farmer at Möðrudalur farm built the church that still stands on the property. He built it in memory of his wife, whom he’d lost in 1944, and he even created the artwork on the altarpiece himself.
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DRAGON WATERFALL It’s only a short hike from the huts.
DRAGON CANYON In the far east of the Dyngjufjöll Mountains is a canyon called Drekagil, or Dragon Canyon. Smack in the middle of the dragon’s mouth are cabins that belong to the Touring Club of Akureyri, and the cabin is appropriately named Dreki (dragon). There’s shockingly little growing in the area, but the picturesque rocks surrounding the waterfall in the canyon make up for the lack of greenery.
MOUNTAIN RETREAT The cabins of Drekagil canyon, almost as far as you can get off the beaten track.
VOLCANIC LAYERCAKE The volcano Askja is a composite volcano, meaning that it’s composed of multiple layers of hardened lava, tephra, pumice, and volcanic ash. The word ‘askja’ means a box, or caldera, in Icelandic, which explains the volcano’s name. Surrounding Askja volcano are the Dyngjufjöll Mountains. Askja’s crater-like appearance was created by the collapse of land following a volcanic eruption. The latest eruption of Askja was back in 1961. Lake Askja (220 m/722 ft) is Iceland’s second deepest lake, after Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon on the south coast.
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The word ‘askja’ means a box, or caldera, in Icelandic, which explains the volcano’s name.
AALTO BISTRO is a unique restaurant and café in the Nordic House in Reykjavik.
The chef, Sveinn Kjartansson, is renowned for his popular TV programmes in Iceland. AALTO Bistro emphasis on Scandinavian food inspired by central European cuisine. AALTO BISTRO is named by the Nordic House acclaimed Finnish modernist architect, Alvar Aalto.
The Nordic House is one of his later works, a hidden gem and features most of Aalto's signature traits. In the Nordic house, all installed furnishings, lamps and almost all of the furniture are by Aalto.
Opening hours: Monday–Wednesday 11:00 am–5:00 pm Thursday–Sunday 11:00 am–09:00 pm
AALTO BISTRO THE NORDIC HOUSE STURLUGATA 5 101 REYKJAVIK TEL: 551 0200 WWW.AAALTO.IS
A PERMANENT SOUVENIR The days when tattoos belonged to the culture of outsiders, rock ‘n’ rollers, and hard men of the world are long gone. Inked skin is now as mainstream as pierced ears. However, each tattoo still represents a personal rite of passage, a step into adulthood, a memory or tribute to a person, a victory won, or even a journey undertaken. If you want a permanent reminder of your trip to Iceland inked onto your skin, here we present three of the finest tattoo parlours of the country. Musician Smutty Smiff, who himself has gone numerous times under the needle, spoke to the artists. PHOTOS BY JEREL LAI
ÓLAFÍA AT REYKJAVÍK INK
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have been here at Reykjavík Ink for about three years. When I started working this business I was lucky to be surrounded by amazing artists who have guided and supported me in acquiring the skills that are needed to become a great tattoo artist. In earlier times, I was very into fitness and a healthy life style and entered many fitness competitions, and even won several. But now my focus is on the art of tattooing. I am dedicated to pushing myself to new heights, to being the best that I can be.
MY STYLE AS AN ARTIST My favourite style is black and grey realistic freestyle. I have always liked to draw, and I paint a little, so that’s how I’m developing my personal style. I am aware, of course, of the legends of the tattoo world, especially in the USA— artists such as Ed Hardy and Bob Roberts, to name a few.
A LITTLE MEMENTO If someone walks into Reykjavík Ink, and is not from Iceland—which happens here especially in the summer—I would strongly suggest something traditionally Icelandic, if people have not completely made up their minds what they want. It would probably be a design that I would custom draw for them—as opposed to something on shop or book flash. The theme would almost definitely be something like the Icelandic runes or Saga images, or even traditional Iceland words or letters.
PERSONAL FAVOURITE I personally prefer the black and grey style of tattoos. To me the contrast between the grey and black tones is very appealing.
Reykjavík Ink / Address: Frakkastígur 7, / 101 Reykjavík, www.reykjavikink.is
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My favourite style is black and grey realistic freestyle. I have always liked to draw, and I paint a little, so that’s how I’m developing my personal style
Iceland Mag / VOL. #06 2014
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A PERSONAL JOURNAL
BÚRI FROM THE ICELANDIC TATTOO CORPORATION (Íslenska húðflúrstofan)
NEW SCHOOL Búri’s interests are photo realistic tattos and his own drawings, which tend to be more new school. He advises people to do their homework before getting a tattoo.
actually got started in late 2001 at another shop that Fjölnir, one of Iceland’s tattoo artist pio neers, had at that time in his old studio. Then in 2005, my friend and colleague, Jón Páll, and I opened our current shop. I have had my stints away, spending around four years with my wife in Sweden, both tattooing and studying. We mostly do custom work. When we started here we had the usual flash, but we thought we would just mark it when it was done. After all it is a small country, and you really cannot get away with doing the same image twice.
MY STYLE AS AN ARTIST My interest is really divided into two categories, photo realistic and my own stuff that I draw, which tends to be more new school and almost comic book orientated. But having said that, while in Sweden I was aware of the growing trend of oldschool, early tattoo styles, and started to get into that genre.
ISOLATED FROM TRENDS Iceland is significantly different from other places because of its location. There are a lot of styles here, and if anything we have boycotted some of the trends. While I was in Sweden, there was a huge trend toward traditional, old-school, “Sailor Jerry” styles. And before that, there was more of the traditional
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Japanese yakuza style. Here in Iceland we have had the advantage of steering the demand.
Then in 2005, my friend and colleague, Jón Páll, and I open ed our cur rent shop. I have had my stints away, spending around four years with my wife in Sweden, both tattoo ing and studying.
A LITTLE MEMENTO If a foreign visitor wanted something distinctly Icelandic, the images we would steer them towards would be the runes and magic staves. Tattooing Icelandic gods and Vikings can turn out to be a bit too cliché. If we do those types of tattoos, we stay away from the braided beards and horns on the head! They were real people too! If you are set on getting inked, do your research on the artist, the shop, and what kind of motif would suit you and your taste. Take time to look at different art and decide what colours would be your preference. A tattoo is for life! C100 M60 Y0 K30
PERSONAL FAVOURITE Tattoos become like a personal journal, mementos of a sort. But I don’t remember the reasons behind all of my tattoos. I have some tattoos that I wouldn’t get today, but still, I wouldn’t get them lasered off. They are a mark of what was. My clear personal favourite, reminding me of a certain time, is a banner forming a heart and words in Icelandic. It says “Will you marry me?” It was part of my wedding proposal to my fiancée.
Pantone Coated 281
The Icelandic Tattoo Corporation / Address: Hverfisgata 39, 101 Reykjavík, www.icelandtattoo.com
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humarhölum.
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Veitingahúsið Perlan Sími: 562 0200 · Fax: 562 0207 Netfang: perlan@perlan.is Vefur: www.perlan.is
Góð gjöf við öll tækifæri!
Til Haming ju!
Við
Við óskum Stefáni Elí Stefánssyni, yfirmatreiðslumanni Perlunnar innilega til hamingju með að hafa unnið matreiðslukeppnina Bragð Frakklands, sem haldin var í maí 2014.
FAMILY AFFAIR Svanur owns Tattoo & skart with his wife. Their daughter also works in the shop as a tattoo artist.
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come from a family of Icelandic fishermen and seamen. The sea was a big part of my upbringing. As soon as I turned sixteen, I signed on to a freighter cargo ship and got my first tattoo. It was in Rotterdam by the legendary Tattoo Bob. After that we sailed to England, and I received two more tattoos there. So at age sixteen, I already had three tattoos. My shop is a family affair. It has been located in downtown Reykjavík since 2000, but before that, it was named Living Art, and it was in Sweden. That shop opened in 1997. My wife and my daughter both work in the shop as tattoo artists. It really is a family business.
INK FOR THE MASSES
ALL IN THE FAMILY
SVANUR AT TATTOO & SKART
Today’s culture is very different from the early days of tattooing when it was only minority groups such as sailors and bikers and marines getting inked. The Reykjavík police headquarters are on the next corner from our shop, and I have worked on many policemen. They have tattoos not just on their bodies but also on their hands. I have also worked on doctors and nurses here in Iceland. The negative stigma of tattoos does not exist any longer: It’s ink for the masses.
The Reykjavík police headquarters are on the next corner from our shop, and I have worked on many policemen. They have tattoos not just on their bodies but also on their hands.
MY PERSONAL STYLE I guess my particular style would be classified as neotraditional with a touch of the realistic. I enjoy the Japanese art and tattoo culture. There are many great tattoo artists, but I must say that the artist “Filip Leu” is my personal hero. I use the same logo as him. His work is amazing.
A LITTLE MEMENTO If you’re coming into our shop for something distinctly Icelandic, I would suggest the runes and some significant Icelandic birds, such as the puffin or raven. The imagery of the black raven has ties to old Viking myths and stories. Tattoo & skart / Address: Hverfisgata 108, 101 Reykjavík.
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EUROPE’S MOST POWERFUL WATERFALL
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The magnificent Dettifoss waterfall is not just the most powerful waterfall in Iceland, but in all of Europe. It’s best to avoid the western side of the waterfall as you’re likely to get sprayed with water and fighting it off will hinder you from seeing this natural phenomenon. The east bank will, however, provide you with an informative trek and a beautiful view. The hiking trail down to the falls is quite rough, though, so we kindly ask that you be extremely careful. Just about a kilometre (1.6 miles) upstream from Dettifoss is another waterfall called Selfoss (not to be confused with its namesake town in South Iceland). Selfoss waterfall may not be the most powerful and is “only” 10 metres tall, but it’s much wider than that. The easy walking paths in the area around Selfoss make for a beautiful hike. Iceland Magazine / VOL. #06 2014
True North Sitting just below the Arctic Circle, the untamed nature of North Iceland meets some of the country’s lushest green valleys and farming regions. It’s also home to Akureyri, the largest town outside the capital area. PHOTOS BY VILHELM GUNNARSSON
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AKUREYRI The largest town outside the greater capital area.
THE CAPITAL OF THE NORTH Akureyri is located in the scenic Eyjafjörður fjord in North Iceland. It is Iceland‘s second largest urban area after the greater Reykjavík area and often dubbed “the capital of the North.”The Viking Helgi magri Eyvindarson was the first to settle the area in the 9th century. Akureyri first received a municipal charter in 1786, but lost it again in 1836, because its population had failed to increase. The town regained its municipal charter in 1862 and has grown steadily ever since.
Akureyri
Akureyri is a beautiful town full of interesting museums, tasty restaurants, and quaint coffee shops. Among the places of interest are Listagilið (the Art Ravine), the Botanical Gardens, the Akureyri Folk Museum, Nonnahús (dedicated to Jón Sveinsson, also known as Nonni, a well-known children’s author and priest), Davíðshús (dedicated to the poet Davíð Stefánsson), and the Aviation Museum. There are also numerous delightful restaurants to be found in Akureyri: Café Ilmur, Strikið, Bryggjan, and Rub 23, to name only a few.
LOCAL CRAFT BEER
Photo/
ROCK HVÍTSERKUR This beautiful 15-metre (50 f ) high sea stack is just offshore on the eastern side of Vatnsnes peninsula. Nearby are some of Iceland’s best seal-watching locations.
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The microbrewery Bruggsmiðjan is located in the small town of Árskógssandur in the North of Iceland. The brewery was founded by husband and wife Ólafur Þröstur Ólafsson and Agnes Sigurðardóttir in 2005. In the last few years, their Kaldi beer has become a favourite among beer connoisseurs, both local and international. Bruggsmiðjan offers guided tours of the brewery and, according to Ólafur Þröstur, they receive around eight to ten thousand guests annually. The tour lasts about an hour and begins with a taste of the brewery‘s products. Then the guide will explain the brewing techniques and the factory’s history. “Most of our guests are Icelandic, German, Danish, and English. The guided tours are a big part of what we do here, although most of them take place during weekends so as not to interfere too much with the production,” Ólafur Þröstur explains.
The only 4 star hotel in Akureyri situated in the heart of town. With a respectable and friendly appearance the hotel offers 104 rooms, meeting rooms, restaurant and a bar. Museums, shops and restaurant are just around the corner!
HafnarstrĂŚti 87 - 89 | SĂmi 460 2000 | kea@keahotels.is | www.keahotels.is
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ÁSBYRGI This is Eyjan or the Island in the middle of the canyon.
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Ásbyrgi is a 3.5 kilometre (1.86 mile) long and 1.1 km (0.6 mi) wide canyon, located east of Húsavík, North Iceland. The canyon is divided in the middle, for nearly half of its length, by a 25 metre (82 feet) high rock known as “Eyjan” (the Island). The canyon is known for its unique horseshoe shape, green forests that nestle within the cliffs, and its pristine lakes, filled with wildlife.
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Many myths surround Ásbyrgi. Some say it was formed when the heathen god Óðinn’s eightlegged horse, Sleipnir, touched the ground there. Other legends have it that the area serves as the capital city of “huldufólk,” hidden people, who live in the surrounding cliffs.
WANT MILK IN YOUR COFFEE? Kaffi Kú, which translates directly as Cafe Cow, is a small cafe located on the farm Garður, only ten kilometres (6 miles) south of Akureyri town. The cafe is run by the farmers and is built in the attic of the farm’s ultramodern cowshed, which means guests can view the cows below while enjoying a cup of coffee, a pint, or a tasty snack. Not to mention of course, the beautiful view over Eyjafjörður fjord.
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VÍÐIMÝRARKIRKJA CHURCH This beautiful church was built in 1834 and is located in Skagafjörður fjord close to the small village of Varmahlíð. It is open to the public from 9 to 18 during the summer months.
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AT BAY SKJÁLFANDI On the lookout for whale.
THE WHALE-WATCHING CENTRE OF ICELAND Húsavík is a small town located in northeast Iceland, also known as the whale-watching capital of Iceland because of all the different whale species that enter the bay. There are a number of tour operators offering whale-watching tours from Húsavík all year around. The Húsavík Whale Museum is located in Hafnarstétt 1, down by the harbour. The museum gives a good overview of the different species, whaling, and conservation. Húsavík is situated on the east side of Skjálfandaflói, also known as Skjálfandi. The bay was originally created by glacial activity and has two rivers flowing into it: the glacial river Skjálfandafljót, and the freshwater river Laxá (meaning Salmon River). There are two uninhabited islands situated in Skjálfandi bay: Flatey and Lundey, meaning Flat Island and Puffin Island.
THE HEYDAY OF THE HERRING INDUSTRY The Herring Era Museum is located in the town of Siglufjörður in the north of Iceland. It celebrates the “glory days” of Iceland‘s herring industry, which began in the 1930‘s and lasted well into the ‘50’s. The museum is a recreation of a typical herring factory and consists of three buildings, each showing a different aspect of the herring industry. This is one of Iceland’s best and most ambitious museums. It was awarded the Icelandic Museum Award in 2000 and the European Museum Award in 2004. Photo courtesy of the Herring Era Museum
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Iceland’s Premier Hotel Chain
Hospitality runs in the family
Icelandair Hotels is a renowned chain of quality hotels located around Iceland. The characteristic of each hotel is shaped by the surrounding nature, local vitality and cultural heritage, but what they have in common is equally important; warmth, style and great service. The Icelandair Hotels are like members of a tight-knit family where the personality and temperament of each individual shine through. Your own family will feel right at home in the Icelandair Hotels family.
For information and bookings: www.icelandairhotels.com or by telephone (+354) 444 4000.
REYKJAVÍK NATURA
REYKJAVÍK MARINA
in KEFLAVÍK
FLÚÐIR
VÍK
KLAUSTUR
HÉRAÐ
AKUREYRI
HAMAR
ICELAND’S OTHER BLUE WATER POOL The Mývatn Nature Baths opened in 2004, but people had been taking baths and steam baths in the area for centuries. The Mývatn Nature Baths are smaller and maybe a bit less picturesque than Iceland’s other more famous blue water pool, the Blue Lagoon. However the surrounding landscape is quite breathtaking, and what the baths lack in size they compensate for by being more intimate and even more authentic than their big relative in the southwest region. Go there, take a dip in the smooth warm water, and enjoy the view. You will love it just like we do. THE MÝVATN NATURE BATHS This is an intimate and authentic place. People have been taking baths in the area for centuries.
THE LAKE OF MIDGES If Mývatn Lake (Lake Midges in English) and the surrounding area weren’t so beautiful, those midges would really start bothering you. Instead, you put up your protective flynet hat and march on, fearlessly ignoring the few midges that sneak through the net and into your mouth. It’s protein; it’s good for you! Mývatn lake is a eutrophic lake that was created by a large basaltic lava eruption over 2300 years ago. While the lake is named Mývatn, the whole area is often referred to by the same name. Volcanic land forms, lava pillars, and pseudo craters dominate the landscape, while the surrounding wetlands are exceptionally rich in fauna and aquatic birds.
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LAKE MÝVATN Don’t let the black flies catch you off guard or scare you away.
www.n1.is
facebook.com/enneinn ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS ENN 69139 05/14
Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland
The points indicate where you’ll find N1 service stations around Iceland
Complimentary
Wi-Fi at selected N1 service stations
N1 is a network of service stations, located all around Iceland. There you can find anything you might need for the road, both fuel, food and entertainment. Our mission is to offer excellent services to anyone on the road. At selected N1 service stations, travelers enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi – perfect to share those travel memories in real time. At the largest service stations, you can either tank up yourself or rely on our swift service, shop for essentials, entertainment and snacks or just take a well-deserved break over a cup of coffee.
Let´s go!
Tank up your car at N1 and fuel your body and soul at the same time. Iceland Mag / VOL. #06 2014
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North Iceland Locals Recommend
SWIMMING WITH GOLDFISH IN HÚSAVÍK Guðríður Baldvinsdóttir lives on the farm Lón, in North Iceland, with her family. She runs her own business making organic cosmetics, candles, and soaps from wild herbs she harvests herself.
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3 “Visit Dettifoss waterfall in Vatnajökull National Park in “A walk along the beach front, eit Northeast Iceland. It’s the most her just north of Húsavík or west powerful waterfall in Europe of Lónsós. From here you might get lucky and catch a glimpse of curious 4 “Go whale-watching in a sailboat seals bobbing around in the sea.” from Húsavík.”
Where’s the best place to go for a little relaxation?
Name four interesting things one should not miss when in the region: 1 “Watch the midnight sun from the
What should those traveling with children see/do in the area: “If the children are not too young, I recommend you go horseback
Photo/Guðríður Baldvinsdóttir
er products are named panoramic viewpoint at Hafnar Sælusápur, which trans brekka. From there you have a lates to “Happy Soaps,” magnificent view over Öxarfjörður and are sold at the farm and in fjord and Kelduhverfi moorland. souvenir shops all over Iceland. In addition Guðríður and her husband, 2 “Take a walk along Hljóðklettar also keep five hundred sheep. cliffs and explore the cave “Kirkjan” (the Church). Nearby How long have you lived in you’ll find “Karl” and “Kerling” the region? (Old Man and Old Woman), “For fifteen years.” which are free-standing pillars. GUÐRÍÐUR BALDVINSDÓTTIR is a sheep farmer in North Iceland and has her own range of organic cosmetics called Sælusápur.
riding to Ásbyrgi canyon with Active North Horse Rental. Ás byrgi is a true natural wonder and to experience it from horseback is an adventure you’ll never forget. There is a small pond full of gold fish located in Húsavík village. Children really enjoy swimming around in the pond. One can also try and catch the fish in a net— but you have to be careful and be
sure to release the fish back into the pond.”
Best restaurant/café in the area? “I always bring my children to Salka Restaurant in Húsavík. They serve the country’s best pizzas, as well as tasty dishes made from local products. Salka is open all year around.”
FERRY
VIKINGSUSHI
FLATEY
THE BRIDGE TO THE
NATURE, BIRDS &
VISIT THIS
WESTFJORDS
EXPERIENCE YOU
CHARMING ISLAND
WILL NEVER FORGET
WHERE TIME STANDS STILL
BALDUR
SÍMI: 433 2254
ADVENTURE
WWW.SEATOURS.IS
Sæferðir - Smiðjustíg 3 - Stykkishólmur - Snæfellsnes
ISLAND
Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley. The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl
North Iceland Locals Recommend
NOTHING BEATS HÓLAR IN THE WINTER TIME Hafdís Arnardóttir is a student of tourism and event management at Hólar University, North Iceland. She divides her time between Hólar and her hometown of Reykjavík and says she absolutely loves being surrounded by mountains and silence in the countryside.
What’s the best thing about Hólar and the neighbouring area: “Having been raised in a big city, the isolation was completely new to me— and I absolutely loved it. The campus area is very small and completely sur rounded by mountains; I loved getting away from the hustle and bustle of the city and living in such close proximity to nature. “Even though Hólar is small, there is lots to do in the area. There are for example many hiking trails in the area, a brewery where you can learn to brew your own beer, a lovely swimming pool, the History Centre (Sögusetrið), which is dedicated to the Icelandic horse, and lots and lots of horses you can ride. “The best thing about the Hólar area, in my opinion, is the solitude, the beautiful natural surroundings, and the calm.”
4 “Finally, go horseback riding and learn a bit about the history of the Icelandic horse at Sögusetur Íslenska hestsins.”
What would you do for fun on a Saturday night? “From early September until May, the Hólar University campus is full of life, so there is loads of fun to be had if you make contact with the locals. The neighbouring town of Sauðárkrókur also has a few pubs that often offer live music during the weekends.”
Best restaurant/café in the area? “Undir Byrðunni Restaurant and the local pub, Bjórsetur Íslands, are the only two eateries in the Hólar area, but you can always drive to
“The old pool in Hverahólmi is the oldest swimming pool in Ice land, built in 1891, and located in the geothermal area near Flúðir.”
Sauðárkrókur for a bite to eat, it is a short twenty-minute drive from Hólar. There is no grocery store in Hólar, so I highly recommend you bring all the necessities if you plan on staying in Hólar.”
What is your favourite landmark in the area and why? “Hólar is very small in size and one could say it is a landmark in itself. Driving up to Hólar and seeing the cathedral always has a significant effect on me. The mountain range surrounding Hólar is probably my favourite landmark. During winter, Hólar gets lots of snow, darkness, and the wonderful northern lights—there is simply nothing like Hólar in the winter time.”
Where’s the best place to go for a little relaxation? “I recommend taking a drive to the nearby town of Hofsós, where you can unwind in their beautiful infinity pool. If you’d rather take a dip in a historic site, I recommend Grettislaug.”
HAFDÍS ARNARDÓTTIR STUDIES RURAL TOURISM AND EVENT MANAGEMENT AT HÓLAR UNIVERSITY. She recommends people walk around the historic site and visit the old cathedral. Photo/Jerel Lai
Photo/Jerel Lai
Name four interesting things one should not miss when in the Hólar region: 1 “The area is so rich with history, so I’d begin by walking around and getting to know the area better. 2 “Check out the cathedral, Nýjibær and Auðunarstofa, read about the archaeological dig on the site, and go for a short hike. 3 “I also recommend you pay a visit to the brewery and local pub, Bjórsetur Íslands.
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SAUÐÁRKRÓKUR TOWN. There are many little restaurants and cafés found in Sauðárkrókur. The town is a short twenty minute drive from Hólar. Photo/Pjetur
HÓLAR Í HJALTADAL use to be the episcopal seat for the northern part of Iceland. The area is rich with history. Photo/GVA
North Iceland Locals Recommend
DESERTED FJORDS AND HIDDEN WATERFALLS Arna Björk Baldursdóttir was raised in the quaint, little town of Siglufjörður in North Iceland but now resides in Akureyri with her three sons.
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er favourite spot in Siglufjörður is Café Rauðka where one can enjoy the sights and sounds of the harbour as the local fishermen go around their daily tasks. 1
How long have you lived in Siglufjörður? “I lived in Siglufjörður until I was nineteen years old. I now live in Akureyri which is only a short drive away, so I visit the old stomping grounds quite regularly.”
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What’s the best thing about the Siglufjörður: “The best thing about the town is the stillness that envelopes it. The people are friendly, you have nature at your doorstep and it is surrounded by beautiful mountains; The combination fills you with a warm sense of tranquillity and wellness.”
Where’s the best place to go for a little relaxation: “I enjoy sitting outside Café Rauðka and watch the small fishing boats busy around the harbour – I find it very calming. A small forest, the product of a reforestation programme, is found near Siglufjörður. Tucked away in between the trees you’ll find the majestic Leyningsfoss waterfall which is a wonderful spot to visit.”
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Name three interesting things one should not miss when in the region:
1) “Visit the Herring Era Museum. 5 It celebrates the “glory days” of Iceland‘s herring industry which began during the 1930‘s and lasted well into the 50‘s. Another interesting museum to visit is the Bjarni Þorsteinsson Folk Music Centre.” 2) “Drop by at Café Rauðka by the harbour.” 3) “Drive to Héðinsfjörður, a fjord
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Photo/Pjetur
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SIGLUFJÖRÐUR FROM A BIRD’S EYE VIEW The quaint little town of Siglufjörður is located in North Iceland.
that once was inhabited but has been deserted since the ‘50’s. I find the area breathtakingly beautiful.”
a visit to the swimming pool in the neighbouring town of Ólafsfjörður.” 6
What should those travelling with children see/do in the area: “I recommend you take your children fishing down by the Siglufjörður harbour. The outdoor playground next to Café Rauðka is also great for children; It’s equipped with a beachvolleyball ground, mini golf and a giant chess set. I also recommend
Best restaurant in Siglufjörður: “My favourite restaurant is Hannes Boy by the harbour. Torgið also offers tasty pizzas and Allinn serves good, traditional food.”
“The best thing about the town is the stillness that envelopes it.” 7
Best place for a nice picnic: “Definitely the forest – or hike upp Hvanneyrarskálin and enjoy the nature and the panoramic views over Siglufjörður.”
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Go North!
ABOVE THE ARCTIC CIRCLE Grímsey island is the northernmost part of Iceland and the only part of the country that lies above the Arctic Circle. During the summer months the island is home to nearly all of the main wader, moorland and seabirds that visit Iceland. It’s a perfect place for watching cliff nesting birds and is home to one of the largest puffin colonies in Iceland. There are fewer than 100 people living on the island. You can get there by boat or by flight. The ferry leaves from the town of and the ride takes 3hours.
CLOSE ENCOUNTERS
Ferry schedule: landflutningar.is/saefari/
Some of Iceland’s best seal watching locations are at the Vatnsnes peninsula in north Iceland. Closely monitored by the nearby Icelandic Seal Center in the town of Hvammstangi together with local landowners, each area offers visitors a different perspective of the seals. It is not unusual to see large numbers of them resting on the rocks and beaches, or playing close to the coast. The distance from Reykjavík to the town of Hvammstangi is 194 km (120 mi) by car. The town is only a few minutes drive from the Ring road.
NASA IN THE NORTH Located 50 km (30 mi) from the Arctic Circle in North Iceland is the town of Húsavík, home to the Explor ation Museum. The main exhibition room features artifacts from NASA’s Apollo Astronaut training, which took place in the central highlands north of Húsavík in 1965 and 1967. Amongst the twelve men that have set foot on the moon, nine trained in Iceland. If you’re lucky, you just might run into an astronaut from the museum wandering around town this summer.
See explorationmuseum.com
Grímsey island
See selasetur.is
Siglufjörður Ólafsfjörður Dalvík
Hrísey
Sauðárkrókur
Vatnsnes peninsula
Glaumbær
Vogagjá and Grjótagjá Akureyri
Hvamstangi
WITNESSING VANISHED TIMES For more than half a century the Skagafjörður Heritage Museum has presented an exhibition in the turf farmhouse of Glaumbær. Within the authentic buildings - a classic example of the roughly built turf, stone cottages once common all over Iceland - everyday tools are displayed in their natural environment, bearing witness to vanished times and the daily activities of people in Iceland’s past.
See glaumbaer.is
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Húsavík
UNDERGROUND BATHING Vogagjá and Grjótagjá are old bathing places in fissures and caves in Mývatnssveit, North Ice land. Whilst Grjótagjá has gain ed popularity in recent years, Vogag já can still be considered one of Iceland’s best kept secret - mostly due to the fact that it’s difficult to find. Between 1975 and 1980, three volcanic eruptions occurred in Krafla, increasing the temperature of the water in Grjótagjá to 60 °C (140 °F) making the water too hot for bathing. The temperatures dropped over time and people could bathe in the fissures again. The temperatures are known to fluctuate however, so make sure to stay in the cooler part and be careful.
Vatnajökull National Park
Becoming an Eco Warrior “Be the change that you wish to see in the world” – Gandhi A few years ago Rakel Garðarsdóttir became aware of how much food gets wasted in her home country. Then she gathered some shocking information about the increasing waste of food on a global level—with all the environmental problems that that entails—and became an Eco Warrior. Believing in Gandhi’s words and using them as her weapon, she founded the movement VAKANDI (AWAKE), with the aim of increasing awareness of food waste.
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ICELAND IS SPARSELY POPULATED, NUMBERING ONLY AROUND 325 THOUSAND PEOPLE. Such a small population makes it possible to achieve changes very quickly and easily. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
he UK, the US, and Europe have nearly twice as much food as is required by the nutri tional needs of their populations. Up to half of all foodstuffs produced within their borders today ends up in the garbage. Consumer organizations around the world, as well as various international institutions, have highlighted this frightening development and warned against it. The issue regularly shows up as a global news topic. By wasting food, we are not just wasting money, but also valuable resources. Every unit of food wasted means more needs to be produced—with all the land, oil, and fertilizer use that that entails. This leads to a larger ecologi cal footprint as well as higher food prices, ultimately contributing to the bigger problems of poverty and re source depletion.
STRETCHED TO THE LIMIT The increased demand for more food production has had disastrous conse quences for the environment. The earth has already been stretched to its limit in keeping up with increased global consumption; if we continue in this manner, by 2030 we will need two planets to sustain us. Our waste is already threatening our environment and our lives. We have to make some changes before it’s too late. Despite clear indications of the po tentially disastrous consequences of such waste, people continue to throw away food in great quantities, seem ingly oblivious to the warning signs. The organization VAKANDI, an inde pendent movement, has been founded in Iceland to promote awareness of these matters and to encourage people to stop throwing away food.
ICELAND CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE Iceland is sparsely populated, number ing only around 325 thousand people. Such a small population makes it possible to achieve changes very quickly and easily—if the message is clear. In the short time the organiza tion has been operating, VAKANDI has already attracted much attention. The media in Iceland have covered the organization and described its
goals very well. We also have bene ficial ties with well known people such as the musician Björk, the former mayor of Reykjavík Jón Gnarr, and former president Vigdis Finnbogadóttir, the first woman to be elected a national head of state. Iceland does not have the greatest track record when it comes to environmental protection, but that is changing very fast. VAKANDI wants to reach the whole nation with its message, so the effects will be noticed worldwide. We want the headline to be: Here is a tiny island nation in the north Atlantic which, in an incredi bly short time, has completely stopp ed wasting food.
JOINED FORCES Greater general awareness about food waste will assist in keeping food prices down, making resources more sustainable, and preventing waste of the public’s hard-earned money—a big welfare issue. A variety of differ ent governmental and nongovernment al groups, finding themselves increas ingly concerned, have joined the fight. In the global arena, VAKANDI has joined forces with interested parties from around the world, groups that share our passion for the goal of re ducing food waste (groups such as the United Nations Regional Information Center for Western Europe, Stop Spild af Mad in Denmark, Matvett in Norway, and Tristram Stuart in the UK, to name just a few). By working together, we are able to provide an even broader variety of materials addressing the subject, thereby moti vating people of all different ages and walks of life to reduce food waste, and raising awareness among authori ties and the public alike. Our goals therefore also include building a strong network among organizations already working on the issue, as well as increasing knowledge and awareness of food waste, resource depletion, and economic waste among politicians, authorities, food produc ers, companies, and individuals.
SEMINAR IN SEPTEMBER VAKANDI, along with Landvernd (The Icelandic Environment Associa tion), will hold a seminar in Iceland on September 6th, where global-scale food-waste data will be presented, Iceland Mag / VOL. #06 2014
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and some of the associated environmental, social, and economic effects will be discussed. By in viting international speakers to take part, and entertaining media coverage, we will use this seminar to strengthen cooperation in reducing food waste at the grassroots level and beyond. VAKANDI is also producing a documentary film in which food waste will be explored and investigated. We will shed light on why and where food is wasted, and what we can do to stop it. The people behind VAKANDI are passionate about our planet and about ensuring the future prospects of upcoming generations. We want to put our foot down. We need to reduce food waste to improve our food security and our economics and help save our planet.
CLEAR VISION A general awakening is what is needed. There will be no improvement until each and every person wakes up and makes a conscious decision not to waste food. The benefits are indisputable. We must save our planet from the relentless flood of waste and garbage before the planet gives up on us. Our fight will make use of every method of information dissemination available, so that people living on this planet will gather together in the fight against food waste. We may be in an isolated place in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, but we Icelanders (along with many other nations), have discovered that
SUPPORTERS TO THE VAKANDI INITIATIVE Singer Björk, former president of Iceland Vigdís Finnbogadóttir and comedian and former mayor of Reykjavík Jón Gnarr
We want the headline to be: Here is a tiny island nation in the north Atlantic which, in an incredibly short time, has completely stopped wasting food.
the world’s environmental problems do not respect borders. We are all in this together, and together we can make changes. My goal is that the Icelandic people join hands in stopping the waste of food and become an exemplary model to other nations. I want to use my vision to take a step towards a better world for upcoming generations. It is possible!
You can join the VAKANDI community on Facebook and visit their website: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Vakandi/232583466923742 http://www.unric.org/is/vakandi
"Everything about the North Aurora is first class." -North Aurora guest
HVERAGERÐI
- blómstrandi bær!
Hveragerði – the health town Welcoming community Boil an egg in our field of hot springs Experience our romantic walking paths Variety of seasonal festivals Greenhousing and green areas Unique golfcourse Striking natural beauty Swimming pool of your dreams Thriving scene for arts and culture
Public pools
Take a Dip If there’s one thing that Icelanders like, it’s going to the swimming pool. All around the country, you can find beautiful public pools with outdoor hot pots where people relax, catch up, and have a good time with family and friends. TEXT BY CELIA HARO RUIZ
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Public pools
LAUGARDALSLAUG (Laugardalur 30, 105 Reykjavík)
3 hot pots 1 outdoor Olympic-size pool 1 indoor pool 1 family pool 1 children’s pool 1 steam bath
Tip: Besides being the biggest swimming pool in Iceland, it has wonderful geothermal hot pots with sea water that’s very good for the skin. Photo/Stefán Karlsson
BASKING IN THE SUN Icelanders flock to swimming pools on sunny days.
SUNDHÖLLIN
NAUTHÓLSVÍK
(Barónsstígur, 101 Reykjavík)
2 hot pots 1 inside pool 1 steam bath
Tip: This pool was opened in Reykjavik in 1937, and has been well kept in all that time. Locals love it!
1 hot pot
White sand beach from the Westfjords BBQ facilities Kiosk with drinks and snacks
Tip: This is a man-made beach where the cold sea and geothermal hot water are combined. The temperature of the sea lagoon is 18° to 20°C on average when mixed with hot water. Free admission!
ÁRBÆJARLAUG (Fylkisvegur, 110 Reykjavík)
3 hot pots 1 family pool 1 outdoor pool 1 steam bath
Tip: Swimmers can enjoy local juvenile football games played in a field right next to the pool. For those who like walks, there’s a beautiful 10 km path in the area.
KJALARNESLAUG (Grundarhverfi district, 116 Reykjavík)
2 hot pots 1 outdoor pool
Tip: This is a small swimming pool where one will find solitude and quiet. It’s located 20 km from Reykjavík in an area that’s still considered part of the capital, so it’s perfect for a relaxing stop after a long drive back to the city from the north.
FUN TIMES A crowded day in Laugardalslaug.
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Public pools
GRAFARVOGSLAUG (Dalhús, 112 Reykjavík)
3 hot pots 1 outdoor pool 1 inside pool 1 family pool 1 children’s pool 1 steam bath
Tip: This is the newest and most modern pool in the capital. Far from downtown, it’s the perfect place to meet locals.
VESTURBÆJARLAUG (Hofsvallagata, 107 Reykjavík)
Photo/ Valli
WEST SIDE The new hot tub in Vesturbæjarlaug became an instant hit.
3 hot pots 1 family pool 1 outdoor pool 1 steam bath
Tip: On Tuesdays and Thursdays, the pool offers classes in water gymnastics at 10:45 am. Very family-friendly!
All around the country, you can find beautiful public pools with outdoor hot pots where people relax.
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Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com
ICELAND MAG EXPLAINS Photo/Pjetur
THIRSTY? The Reykjavík nightlife is notorious, especially when it comes to opening hours.
BLUE LAGOON BY BUS
Question: How easy is it to get to the Blue Lagoon by bus from Reykjavík? (How much cash do I need, and in what currency, for bus, entry, etc?) Answer: Taking the bus to the Blue Lagoon is quite simple and is not a hassle at all. Most Icelanders purchase daily necessities and basically everything with cards, therefore cash should not be an issue for most tourists. Just pay at the BSÍ bus terminal in Reykjavik, and you will be on your way. However, Reykjavík Excursions/Reykjanes Express accepts all major currencies, if you prefer to pay with cash due to exchange rates or card fees. Taking the bus will set you back 3,600 krónur, about 23 euros or $30, according to current exchange rates, for a round trip (or return) ticket. As for departure times, the bus for the Blue Lagoon leaves BSÍ every four hours, at 10 am, 2 pm, and 6 pm, while the bus from the Blue Lagoon to BSÍ leaves at 11:15 am, 3:15 pm, and 9 pm.
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Taking the bus to the Blue Lagoon is quite simple and is not a hassle at all. Most Icelanders purchase daily neces sities and basically everything with cards, therefore cash should not be an issue for most tourists.
Question: What are the opening hours of Reykjavík’s bars and nightclubs? Are they the same all over the city? Answer: Reykjavík’s nightlife is notorious, and some places are more notorious than others, especially when it comes to opening hours. Some times it can be confusing even for a native. On weekdays, most bars are open until 1 am, but Thursdays have become a drinking night as well among some parts of the populace. Some bars and nightclubs are more heavily populated during the weekends, since they are closed all the other nights. When considering opening hours of clubs, you might also want to factor in the clientele, since that has a tremendous influence on how long some clubs are open. Legally all bars and nightclubs are required to close at 4:30 am, but for some it might take a wee bit longer to usher out the crowd, thus opening hours might actually extend to 5 am. This is the case at Bar 11 (Hverfisgata 18), which is known as one of the rowdiest bars in town, whereas a watering hole like Ölstofa Kormáks & Skjaldar (Vegamótastígur 4), which caters to intellectuals and hipsters, might close at 4 or 4:30 am. Another popular Reykjavík bar is Boston (Laugavegur 28b), which closes at 3 am, while bars like Húrra (Tryggvagata 22) and Kaffi barinn (Bergstaðastræti 1) are open to 4:30 am. But if you venture to the area around Lækjartorg where there are numerous bars, you might find one or two that are still open. Your best bet is to follow others or just ask. Failing that, just check the Facebook page of each club or bar.
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Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com
Question: Can I do a day trip to Greenland from Iceland?
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Answer: Yes, indeed. Only a two-hour flight from Reykjavík takes you to Greenland’s beautiful East Coast, home of the Ammassalik Inuit. Kulusuk village is the gateway to East Greenland and the small settlement is an excellent introduction to the way of life in a settlement in the Ammassalik area. In Kulusuk you will find some of the east coast’s most skillful craftsmen, whose tupilaks are of exceptional quality. Traditional hunting and fishing are still essential sources of income for many families in the settlement. Air Iceland’s guides (see www.airiceland. is) will escort you the short distance from the airport to the engaging village Kulusuk where you can stroll about and meet some of the 360 local residents and view their quality crafts. Weather permitting, you will be treated to kayaking demonstrations and an ancient drum dance reflective of the indigenous culture. On the return flight you can enjoy a spectacular view over huge glaciers and floating icebergs.
What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions. ask@ icelandmag.com
VISIT GREENLAND It only takes two hours to fly from Reykjavík to Greenland’s East coast.
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Iceland Magazine / VOL. #06 2014
Vegamótastíg | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 511 3040 | www.vegamot.is
Watchmaker Frank Michelsen, founder of Michelsen Watchmakers, at his desk in Sauðárkrókur, N-Iceland, in 1920.
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Photo/Jerel Lai
MY NEIGHBOURHOOD –HAFNARFJÖRÐUR
ERLA JÓNSDÓTTIR Recommends a visit to Hellisgerði park. “It’s a little, green oasis surrounded by lava. Children really enjoy splashing around in the fountain in sunny weather.”
Old, green, and charming Erla Jónsdóttir was born and raised in the charming harbour town of Hafnarfjörður, a fifteen-minute drive from central Reyjavík. Erla works as a teacher at the private school, Hjallastefnan, and is married to Jóhannes Steinn Jóhannesson, head chef at the popular Slippbarinn restaurant in Hotel Marina. The couple has two sons, Jón Frank and Óli Steinn, and a goldfish named Maggi Rogers.
H
ow long have you lived in Hafnarfjörður?
“All my life, apart from two short stints living in Garðabær, the town next to Hafnarfjörður.”
on Reykjavíkurvegur street). It’s a little, green oasis surrounded by lava. Children really enjoy splashing around in the fountain in sunny weather. 2
“Drop by Pallett Kompaní at Norðurbakki 1. They have excellent service and serve the best hot chocolate in town!
“The neighbourhood is old, green, rather densely populated, charming, and not too far from Reykjavík. I, myself, was raised in Hafnarfjörður, and I enjoy having my family and friends in such close proximity.”
3
“The beachfront near Herjólfsgata street is the perfect place to spend some time with your kids. There you can play all sorts of adventure games and search for treasures such as seashells and pebbles.
What is a must-see or do in your neighbourhood?
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“Pay a visit to the old swimming pool in Hafnarfjörður and unwind in the sauna and hot tubs.”
What‘s the best thing about the neighbourhood?
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“You should definitely bring your children to Hellisgerði park (located Iceland Magazine / VOL. #06 2014
“The best thing about my neigh bourhood is the diversity of it, how central it is.
HAFNARFJÖRÐUR TOWN This seaside town of 27.000 people is on the outskirts of the capital area. Photo/GVA
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