Iceland Magazine March 2015

Europe’s Best Raw Food Restaurant P 8

Issue 10 01

2015

The Icelandic Beer Day

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A Culinary Feast in the Capital

P 22

T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e

Yo ur

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Ec op y

Hail Óðinn! Ásatrú is the old Norse religion practised p.30

by Iceland´s early Viking settlers

p.18

From Brooklyn to Ólafsfjörður Village

Photographer Annie Ling was drawn to the challenge of working through the dark, Icelandic winter

Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e

The Blue Lagoon Departure: Various Duration: Flexible Price: 3.700 ISK Entrance fee not included.

Golden Circle Departures: 08:30, 10:30, 13:00 Duration: 6 - 8,5 hours Price from: 9.000 ISK

Northern Lights Departure: 19:00, 20:00 Duration: 3 - 5 hours Price: 6.400 ISK Northern Lights Deluxe Departure: 19:30 Duration: 6 - 8 hours Price: 13.900 ISK

Combination tours for those who want to make the most of their day City Sightseeing & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 13.000 ISK

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The Blue Lagoon & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 12.500 ISK

City Sightseeing & The Blue Lagoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: Flexible Price: 8.000 ISK

iceland@grayline.is | +354 540 1313 | grayline.is Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

Frequent Convenient Low Cost

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AIRPORTEXPRESS Airport Terminal to City Center

Tickets: Arrival Hall

South Coast, Waterfalls & Glacier Hike Departure: 08:30 Duration 11 hours Price: 20.900 ISK

Game of Thrones Departure: 13:00 Duration: 6 hours Price: 9.500 ISK

Book your tour now!

24 HOUR BOOKING SERVICE Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 Bus Terminal, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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Contents from the editor

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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@iceland­mag.com

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May the Gods Be With You

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s religion the source of most of the evil in the world? With recent deadly attacks in Europe and escalating conflicts in the Middle East traced back to faith, it might seem so.

The human species, however, has never lacked things to kill or die for.

Football and parking spaces are among the reasons that show up on that list. Logic can be dismissed in various ways.

And, on a much larger scale, we find the atheist regimes from the last century. Mao, Pol Pot, Stalin and more, all unleashed devastating violence on their own people and their neighbours.

Violence is deeply rooted in human psychology, and religion is often used to mobilize a group in the pursuit of power, profit, and prestige.

With so many religious leaders cooking up alibis for the mis­­ogy­­ny and intolerance in their faiths, it is refreshing to come upon the views of the wise men and women speaking on behalf of the old Norse pagan Ásatrú in Iceland. Its source is the religi­on practiced by the early settlers of Iceland and across the Nordic region before the year 1000. Ásatrú (which means the religion of the old gods) has a range of gods and goddesses. It’s a religion without founder or written doctrine, which practices gender equality and is open to all. It focuses on the here-and-now, and each person is responsible for himself/herself and her own fate.

Respect for nature is a big part of Ásatrú. Its followers “are a part of the earth and not its master,” says former high priest, Jónína K. Berg. When Europe’s largest dam was built in Iceland’s central highlands to generate electricity for an alumin­­um smelter, Ásatrúarfélagið—the Ásatrú society—was the only religious group to protest and ask that the environment be spared (see the feature by Neil McMahon on page 30).

Now, more than forty years after the Icelandic Ásatrúarfélagið was founded in 1972, it will finally get its own temple. It will be the first central pagan temple built in the Nordic region for more than 1000 years. Construction will begin in March at Öskjuhlíð hill, close to Reykjavík’s centre, and will be finished next year if everything goes as planned.

Without a doubt, the temple will instantly become one of the capital’s most visited destinations. Visitors will get in touch with a religion that embraces tolerance and individual liberty. Can you ask for anything more?

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Contents 6-16 Lookout 6 Craft beer paradise 8 Europe’s best raw food & World’s most peaceful country 10 Currency jewelry 12 Ghosts in the sky 14-16 The magnificent Icelandic Beer Day, Music festival in the Westfjords, Design March and more highlights ahead.

18 Hibernating in town Ólafsfjörður Taipei-born photographer and Brooklyn resident Annie Ling spent ten weeks in a small town in North Iceland, where she had some of her best and worst meals.

22 Capital Culinary Festival Delicious flavours and quality products reign supreme during Iceland’s premiere culinary festival, the 2015 Food and Fun festival taking place in Reykjavík.

30 Gods and Goddesses The old Nordic heathen Ásatrú has much to recommend it. First off it´s non-authoritarian and decentralized. There´s no founder, no dusty old book whose interpretation people fiercely contest.

38 Like a Candle In the Wind Who is lighting candles throughout the winter on top of a cliff in the harbour of Westman Islands? And why? A story of a heartwarming tradition.

IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf.

Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Benedikt Freyr Jónsson benni@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Neil McMahon, Jerel Lai, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: Pagan priestess Jóhanna Harðardóttir feast and pagan priest Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson at a winter feast (see feature p. 30) Photo

by Stefán Karlsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing.

Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area.

Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements.

Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.

50 Iceland Magazine Explains How hard is it for foreigners to purchase property in Iceland? Can anyone join the pagan Icelandic Ásatrú Association? Any tips on what to see and do on a two-day stopover?

54 Smarty pants!

Childhood friends Ágústa Hera Harðardóttir and Sigurjón Sigur­­geirsson created ‘Föðurland,’ a collection of colourful cotton leggings covered with Icelandic rivers, wastelands, and mountains.

SOUVENIR SHOP SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012

The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is

Akureyri Reykjavík

www.theviking.is TAX FREE Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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Bar managers Ólafur Ágústsson (left) and Haukur Heiðar Leifsson will guide guests through the impressive beer menu at Mikkeller & Friends. Photo/Jerel Lai

Beer Nerds Star craft beer brewers, the Danish Mikkeller, open a bar in Reykjavík.

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he beer selection at the brand new Mikkeller & Friends bar at Hverfisgata street, downtown Reykjavík, will make you dizzy before you have a single sip.

They have twenty types on tap and over 100 types of bottled beer, among those are rarities like the legendary Westvleteren, considered by some to be the best beer in the world, vintage BelleVues from 1999 and 1989 and Gueze, all three are Belgian icons

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

According to bar manager Ólafur Ágústs­ son the stars of the show are, however, beers from the fantastic Danish micro brewery, Mikkeller and their friends To Øl, both so-called gipsy or nomad breweries meaning they don’t own their own brewing equipment, but brew their ambitious recipes at other breweries instead. ”We will get all the lates types from them as soon as they enter the market,” Ólafur explains.

Good to know “One beer please” is in Icelandic: “Einn bjór, takk.”

And “cheers” is “Skál!”

While the focus is on the drinks at Mikkeller & Friends the bar also offers a quality snack menu from the excellent pizzeria located one floor down.

The Mikkeller & Friends bar is a collaboration between the Danish brewers and Icelandic restaurateurs who own the great Kex Hostel & Bar, a stalwart on Reykjavík’s downtown bar scene.-Jk

www.arnartr.com

ww

the timeless

warmth

Varma is dedicated to maintaining VARMA er íslenskt vörumerki semin developing, Icelandic tradition framleiðir allar sínar vörur á Íslandi. designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories Vöruúrval VARMA er fjölbreytt og from the best Icelandic wool and hentar því öllum aldurshópum. sheepskin shearling.

Varma is available in various tilvalið í jólapakkann tourist shops around Iceland

www.arnartr.com

of Iceland

Peace & happiness Denmark is second on IEP’s list of peaceful countries. Pictured, Reykjavík skyline with Hallgrímskirkja rising the tallest. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

World’s Most Peaceful Country

A Photo/Eygló Gísla

gain this year, the Institute of Economics and Peace (IEP) has declared Iceland to be the most peaceful country in the world. The IEP’s Global Peace Index is the world’s leading measure of national peacefulness, rank­ing 162 nations according to their “absence of violence.”

The IEP’s Global Peace Index is the world’s leading measure of national peace­­fulness.

The Index is now in its eighth year, and Iceland has topped the list from its in­ception.

According to the IEP, the Index is com­­ posed of 22 indicators, ranging from a nation’s level of military expenditure to its relations with neigh­­bour­­ing countries, the rates of murder and other violent crimes,

and the percentage of the popu­­lation in prison. The data is sourced from a wide range of re­­­spect­­ed sources, including the International Insti­­­tute of Strategic Studies and the World Bank, and is used by many international organizations, governments, and NGOs, including the OECD and the United Nations.-JK

Eating Healthy Raw, baked or boiled delicious food at Gló.

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he reputation of the Icelandic health food chain Gló is starting to spread out­­­side Iceland. A longtime love of local foodies, Gló received a glowing mention in January in the travel section of the Guardian, when writer Kate Magic chose the restaurant as her favourite raw food spot in Europe.

The chef behind Gló, Solla Eiríks, has been at the The chef Solla Eiríks is Iceland’s most famous raw food cook.

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forefront of the health food movement in Ice­land for more than two decades. Not only can you eat at the Gló restaurants, you can also pick up their Himneskt (Heavenly) pro­­­ducts at many supermarkets.

Gló has one restaurant off Laugavegur street in downtown Reykjavík and three others in the capital area.

See more: www.glo.is

Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is

Iceland tops the Global Peace Index for the eighth consecutive year.

A GEOTHERMAL ENERGY EXHIBITION

WORTH A VISIT

Stop by the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power Plant and see how they harness the geothermal energy.

Experienced guides are on-hand to provide informative presentations backed by multimedia shows about sustainable green energy as a global energy source and the geology of Iceland.

Origin of the Geothermal energy – The production process – An illustrated guide to Hellisheiði – The earth core Exclusive collection of minerals and stones. An excellent hiking and outdoor destination - we provide information on hiking around the Hengill area. Enjoy our coffee shop and browse through a selection of educational material in the souvenires corner.

Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is

Open daily from 9:00 – 17:00. We are about 20 minutes drive from Reykjavík on Route 1 towards Hveragerði.

More information: www.orkusyn.is Tel + 354 412 5800 e-mail: orkusyn@orkusyn.is Gps 64°02”248’- 21°24”079´

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Lookout

Photo/Valli

Viktor Andri Halldórsson makes unique jewelry from old copper coins.

His design has gained world-wide attention, and many, including American soldiers once stationed in Keflavík, have bought the rings he makes.

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iktor Andri Halldórsson, who’s study­­­ing to become a ship captain, re­­­cently began to create lovely rings and tie clips from old copper coins that he acquired from a family member. Viktor had been wondering what to do with his coin collection when he stumbled upon an inter­­ net video tutorial on how to cre­­­ate rings from coins.

“I acquired an extensive collection of old Icelandic 1 króna coins, which have proven to be the perfect material for jewelry mak­­­ ing. I’ve also experimented with Nor­­weg­­­ian and Danish coins, the Icelandic 100 krón­­ur coin, and the euro. The last two were the most difficult to handle,” Viktor explains.

Making rings requires much patience, as they are made by hammering or tapping the edge of the coin until flat and smooth.

Viktor admits the work is quite laborious

Photo/Valli

The other side of the coin

and time-consuming. However, his pa­­­ti­­­ence and hard work have paid off since the rings have gained world-wide attention.

“So far I’ve shipped rings to the US, Nor­­way, Denmark, Australia, and Monte­­­ne­­­gro. Most of my rings have ended up in the States, either with Icelanders living in the country, but more often than not with Ameri­­can soldiers who were once stationed in Iceland.”

Viktor had not anticipated the wide­­spread positive reception his designs have gott­­en and had not planned on selling them, until he was encouraged by friends and family.

But one question remains: With all this popul­arity, how long until the young lad runs out of material to work with?

“After a local newspaper, Fréttablaðið, wrote about the rings, I’ve gotten many phone calls from people who want to give me more coins to work with, so I’ll be able to continue for quite some time,” he concludes with a smile. -SM

Popular design The unique jewelry and rings that Viktor Andri Halldórsson makes from old copper coins have sold like hot cakes.

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I online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour Book Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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Thermal pools and d baths in Reykjavik are a source of health health, relaxation laxation and puren pureness.

All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015 I 11 Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.spacity.is

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Prepare Amazed Photo by Egill Aðalsteinsson We are now bang in the middle of Iceland’s northern lights season, but few realize that the Aurora zone comes and goes above the country all year round.

It’s not the winter cold that brings this great natural phenomenon to life but the lack of light during the shorter days. So even during the summer there can be northern lights dancing in the sky, but we just can’t see them because of the bright nights.

The prime time for spotting the northern lights is between the months of September and May. You should keep an eye on the Icelandic Met Office’s excellent Aurora Borealis forecast (at vedur.is), and when the conditions are promising head away from the light pollution of urban areas and prepare to be amazed.

This photo was taken at Fáskrúðsfjörður village in East Iceland. - JK

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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Lookout highlights ahead

The Akureyri Winter Games Iceland’s second slope style competition will kick off on March 6th in Akureyri. The competition takes place in the Hlíðarfjall ski area, located on the slopes above the town. Skiing and snowboarding competitions aside, the event includes numerous interesting off-venues, parties, concerts and leisure.

What: Winter Games Iceland When: March 6-8 Info: icelandwintergames.com/en

Icelandic Contemporary Painting Paintings by 85 contemporary Icelandic painters of all ages, approaches, and ideologies are displayed in the exhi­­bitions Nýmálað (or Just Painted) 1 and 2, at two of the Reykjavík Art Museum’s exhibition spaces: Hafnarhús and Kjarvalsstaðir. Such an extensive overview of Icelandic contemporary painting has never been presented before. Until April 15th.

See: www.artmuseum.is

R&R in the Westfjords

Horses on ice!

The annual music festival Aldrei fór ég suður (I never went south – south meaning the capital) is a family-friendly affair with many acts performing through­­out the day all over the small town of Ísafjörður, the unofficial capital of the Westfjords. At the same time, the town hosts an annual Ski Week festival in the town. Two good reasons to visit.

The Mývatn Open 2015 will take place on Lake Mývatn between March 13 and 15. On the Friday guests are invited to partake in a horse riding tour on the the frozen lake, free of charge. Local riders will compete in tölt on the lake at 11 am on Saturday – a sight truly unmatched. Later that evening guests are welcome to join the fun as the riders celebrate at the local pub.

When: April 1-3 See: www.aldrei.is

What: Mývatn Open When: March 13-15. Info: myvatn.is/en

Beers to you Happy customers on March 1st 1989 when beer became available after having been off-limits for 74 years.

The top 10 most-popular beer list in Iceland is dominated by lager beers, but we are in the middle of a beer revolution, with new craft beers from local breweries hitting the market almost every month. Photo/GVA

The Annual Icelandic Beer Day

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March 1st is a big day on Iceland’s drinking calendar.

arch 1st, 1989 is the date when it became legal to buy beer in Ice­­­ land again, after hav­­­ing been off-limits since 1915. When alcohol pro­­­hi­­­bition swept the world in the early 20th century, all alcohol was banned in Iceland. In 1935, the ban was lifted for all alcohol, except beer. Since wine and hard liquor were allowed, this is difficult to comprehend.The ban was finally rescinded in 1989, and every year since then, “Beer Day” has been celebrated around the island.

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One ambitious program is hosted by the great Kex Hostel, located in downtown Reykjavík. It’s a fourday annual Beer Festival, com­­­ mencing this year on Thursday, February 26th. Breweries from all over Iceland, and a few from abroad, will be offering you the chance to sample dozens of craft and specialty beers and to listen to the brewers explain the magic behind them.

You can buy a festival pass (or a day pass) at midi.is and on location.

Admission is 6.950 ISK ($50, EUR 46).

Included is a tote bag, a chat with the brewers, and of course, the beer tasting.

History Photos from Reykjavík’s past.

Welcome to our house The exhibition Húsin í bæn­­ um, or Houses in the Town, at the National Museum of Iceland, consists of old photographs of buildings in central Reykjavík.

The 3,500 photographic slides had been donated to a local charity shop, Góði hir ðirinn, which contacted the museum and presented them with the archive. The photographer, Kristinn Guðmundsson (1934-2006), was a qualifi­­ ed dental technician, who worked for many years as a librarian in the Reykja­­vík mobile library. His photo­­ graphic archive is a unique docu­­mentation of the ambiance and environment of downtown Reykjavík in 1970s and 80s.

Where: National Museum of Iceland, Suðurgata 41 When: Until May 17th.

Iceland’s Premier Hotel Chain

Hospitality runs in the family

Icelandair Hotels is a renowned chain of quality hotels located around Iceland. The characteristic of each hotel is shaped by the surrounding nature, local vitality and cultural heritage, but what they have in common is equally important; warmth, style and great service. The Icelandair Hotels are like members of a tight-knit family where the personality and temperament of each individual shine through.

Your own family will feel right at home in the Icelandair Hotels family.

For information and bookings: www.icelandairhotels.com or by telephone (+354) 444 4000.

REYKJAVÍK NATURA

REYKJAVÍK MARINA

in KEFLAVÍK

FLÚÐIR

VÍK

KLAUSTUR

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Lookout Highlights ahead

Design, design, design!

Photo/????????????

DesignMarch is, as the name suggests, an annual design festival held in Reykjavík, in March.

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stablished in 2010, the festival features over one hundred exhibitions, workshops, and other events over a period of four days. Its aim is to showcase local design and build connections between local and international designers and companies.

Organized by the Iceland Design Centre, DesignMarch may have started out as a small grassroots event, but it has now blossomed into a full-on design fair attracting 35 thousand visitors each year.

Each year, the festival opens with DesignTalks, a day of lectures presented by leading local and international designers. This year’s fête kicks off on Thursday, March 12, in Harpa Conference Hall.

DesignMarch is an annual design festival held in Reykjavík. This year’s event kicks off on March 12.

See more: designmarch.is

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• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788

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• Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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9/3/2014 10:33:00 AM

The interview

Hibernating in North Iceland Photographer Annie Ling spent ten weeks in Ólafsfjörður, North Iceland.

There she had some of her best and worst meals.

Text by Sara Mcmahon Photo by Annie Ling

During her time in Iceland she made many new friends, ate some of the best and worst meals she ever had, and caught up on her sleep. Iceland Magazine found out more.

When and why did you move to Iceland?

“Last spring, I was desperate for a change of pace and scenery so I began to browse through artist residency opportunities, when I stumbled upon Listhús í Fjalla­­­ byggð in Ólafsfjörður, a town of roughly 800 people on a fjord in northern Iceland. I was drawn to the chall­­ enge of working in dark winter, where the sun never rises up higher than the surrounding mountains and the land is blanketed by mysterious reflected lighting for only a few hours each day. So naturally, I was thrilled to become a recipient of the first Skamm­­­degi AIR Award, granting me an oppor­­­tunity to imm­­erse myself in the unfamiliar for two months, beginn­­­ing December 2014 till the end of January 2015.“ Was it easy to adjust to life in North Iceland during the darkest months of the year?

“It was easier than I anticipated, especially when I began to adapt to the casual and more relaxed pace of life there. I found myself hibernating more this winter due to the limited daylight, getting much more rest and sleep here than I normally get in New York City. I also appreciated how everyone in town decorates their homes with a lot of lights and embellishments during the holi­­days to compensate for the darkness and short days.”

A new adventure Annie Ling, was drawn to the chall­­enge of working in the dark winter.

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nnie Ling, a Taipei-born photographer and author based in Brooklyn, New York, was looking for a bit of a change.

When searching for artist residencies, she stumbled upon one located in the small village of Ólafsfjörður, North Ice­­ land. Drawn to the challenge of working through the dark, Icelandic winter, Annie decided to pack up and move to northern Iceland for ten weeks.

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“I’ve had some of my best meals here (the seafood, lamb dish­­ es, fresh geysir bread) and also some of the worst!

Okay, okay, maybe I exaggerate…”

Did Iceland surprise you, or was it pretty much what you expected?

“Surprisingly, I had some of my best meals there (the seafood, lamb dishes, fresh geysir bread) and also some of the worst! Okay, okay, maybe I exaggerate… the fer­­ mented skate and hákarl wasn’t that bad, but I’m not eager to taste it again. But the pickled ram’s testicles were “thorrible.” (The testicles are part of mid-winter feast Þorrablót’s menu) Along with the good company of hospitable people and the new friendships I found there, I also won’t forget the incredible range of blues and colours in the

Made in Perlan

This croissant is among many other delicious offerings made in Perlan earlier today for you to enjoy with the spectacular view overseeing the city in any direction.

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The interview

land­­­scape this winter, especially the Aurora Borealis in the night skies.

This was my first artist residency, and it offered me precious time to explore freely without expectations and to reflect more deeply on my life and work. In New York City, “time” rules daily life: I go up in the morning and decide how I will manage my time— some­times feeling the weight of it, sometimes fueled by the seeming shortage of it. This winter, when I got up in the morning in Iceland and if itwas still dark when I looked outside my window and I’d steal a little more sleep. I also looked at the weath­er and took cues from that. Through this, I was reminded of the value of slowing down and the freedom gained from surrendering control.

Iceland is a culture of story­­telling and storytellers.

Their stories and the unique environment that shapes them have inspired and will continue to serve as inspiration for me.”

You took over the New Yorker’s Instagram feed for a whole week, how did that come along?

“I’d started working with the New Yorker last summer, and shortly after that, one of the editors approached me about taking over their Instagram feed sometime in the near future. I knew I was going to spend the winter in northern Iceland, so I pitched them the idea of taking over their feed for a week during my Skammdegi resi­­ dency at Listhús in Ólafsfjörður. It was a fantastic time, sharing my discoveries of this humble yet magical place in an obscure slice of the world between the fjords I came to call home this winter.“ What was the best thing about the town?

“The people in and around the town are so relaxed and also welcoming, I really enjoyed building relation­­ships there over coffee and home-cooked meals. With a population of roughly 800 people in Ólafsfjörður, it’s no surprise that everybody knows each other... and in Iceland, I found they love to celebrate everything.

As soon as one celebration ends, it seems another one begins. It was a special treat to spend Christmas and New Year’s there, which I learned are major high­­­lights for Icelanders who really go all out with décor and festivities over the holiday season. I witnessed the whole town congregating for every occasion... in celebration of life, but also during seasons of loss and mourning over a departed member of the community.”

Does the area have a famous landmark? “Ólafsfjarðarvatn is now a nature reserve, and a special lake with a salt water layer underneath a fresh water layer so one could catch cod and trout from the same lake. There is also a ski jump in the centre of town! And nearby, just 15 kilometres north in the same munici­­­ pality of Fjallabyggð lies the larger fishing town of Siglu­­­­fjörður, home to the beautiful, award-winning Herr­­­ing Era Museum.”

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Into the unknown Annie Ling spent ten weeks in an artist residency in Ólafsfjörður, North Iceland. She found the best thing about the town to be the people. Photos/Annie Ling

Where is the Best place to meet the locals?

“At town events/socials, as well as the town pool are a good bet for meeting locals!

Of course, also going on walks around the neigh­­­­­­­­­bour­­hood and accept­­­ing invi­­­­ta­­tions for coffee, waffles, and dinners!”

Name four interesting things one should not miss when in the region.

“During my residency, I really enjoyed the out­­door heated swimming pool in town, hikes around Ólafsfjarðarvatn, an incredible spot for fishing in the summer, and taking the trails along the fjords, skiing in wintertime and not least the views of the sky and mountains which morph daily.”

Website: annielingphoto.com Instagram: @annielingphoto

THE WONdErS Of

VOLCANOES Volcano House features two documentaries chronicling two of Iceland´s most famous volcanic eruptions of the last 40 years

Vestmannaeyjar 1973, Eyjafjallajökull 2010 and other volcanoes Showtimes English: 10:00-21:00 every hour on the hour. Open every day German: 18:00 from June 15th to September 15th.

Vestmannaeyjar 1973 The eruption in Vestmannaeyjar began without warning on the night of January 23rd, 1973. 400 homes perished under ash and lava and nearly 5.000 people had to flee to the mainland in matter of hours.

Eyjafjallajökull 2010 The most famous volcano eruption in recent times; the eruption that caused much disruption in air travel over large parts of Europe. This powerful documentary made specially for Volcano House was filmed and directed by the Emmy-nominated Icelandic film maker, Jóhann Sigfússon.

Geological Exhibition you may touch Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik | (354) 555 1900 volcanohouse.is

VOLCANO HOUSE Cinema | Geological Exhibition

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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Food and Fun 2015

Capital Culinary Festival Delicious flavours and quality products reign supreme during Iceland’s premiere culinary festival, the 2015 Food and Fun festival taking place in Reykjavík.

The festival has been hitting its stride over the past years with a record number of restaurants participating this year.

Words by Sara McMahon

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t’s fair to say the Icelandic culinary scene has been blooming over the past decade. More chefs are focus­ing on organic and localised food since the New-Nordic culinary movement swept across the Nordic countries, and many restaurants now offer menus inspired by Iceland’s traditional cuisine.

The Food and Fun festival takes place all over Reykja­vík between February 25th and March 1st. The event brings together internationally acclaimed chefs from Europe and America and some of Reykjavík’s finest restaurants to create an unforgettable culinary experience.

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

The Food and Fun festival takes place all over Reykja­ vík between February 25th and March 1st.

Each chef is assigned to one of the participating restaurants and together they develop a special menu which is presented at the restaurant for the entire week. The dishes are made from Ice­ landic ingredients but have an international twist to them.

A record number of nineteen restaurants are joining in on the fun this year, increasing diners’ chances of getting a seat at one of the restaurants during the popular week-long event.

Delicious flavours aside, the Icelandic diet of fresh fish and quality meat and dairy products has been rated the world’s healthiest diet, giving foodies yet another reason to partake in the annual culinary fair.

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Photo/Valli

Icelandic lamb meat.

The sheep graze on the rich and nourishing vegitation in the mountains from spring to autumn.

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Food and Fun 2015

Sægreifinn, or the Sea Baron, is a small, humble restaurant located in an old baiting hut on the old Reykjavík harbor. The restaurant was founded

by Kjartan Halldórsson, a retired fisherman and former chef for the Icelandic Coast Guard, who quickly became famous for his delicious lobster soup.

While the lobster soup might be the restaurant’s specialty, the more traditional dish of fermented skate, a foul-smelling Icelandic delicacy, is also worth a try—if not for the taste of it, then at least it’ll make for a good story.

For the love of food!

Should the refined cuisine served during Food and Fun not be to your taste, there’s a plethora of other more conventional restaurants to be found in Reykjavík that are well worth a visit.

As the saying goes: Every man to his taste.

The Icelandic culinary business Salt Eldhús offers cooking classes for foreign travelers who are interested in learning more about Icelandic culture and cuisine. The introductory class in Icelandic and Nordic cuisine, called Local & Focal, takes place every weekday at 11 am and is four hours long. Participants learn to prepare a three-course menu, consisting of fish, Icelandic lamb, and a skyr dessert—skyr being the traditional Icelandic dairy product that resembles yogurt.

When all the cooking is done, the group sits down to enjoy their home-cooked meal, some music, and good conversation.

The hot dogs at Bæjarins beztu have been called the world’s best. The small chain of hot dog stands—the most famous one located by the old harbor—has been dubbed the country’s best eatery and, despite its humble enclosure, has attracted celebrity clients such as Bill Clinton and model Chrissy Teigen. Order ‘eina með öllu’, a hot dog with all the trimmings, and enjoy!

The restaurant Matur og drykkur opened for business last month. Owned by chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson, the restaurant serves traditional, Icelandic specialities, but with a twist. Try the hashed fish or cod liver served on ‘laufabrauð’ bread and you’ll be in for a treat.

Junk food connoisseur Dr. Gunni vehemently maintains that Kókosbolla, a coconut flour bun so delicate that it can neither be wrapped nor exported, is Ice­­land’s very best sweet. The bun consists of a fluffy white paste inside a thin chocolate shell covered in coconut flour. For a volcanic party inside your mouth, try drinking Coca Cola while eating the bun.

Another favorite among locals is the Lindu rís buff. A gooey marshmallow covered in succulent milk chocolate and topped with crunchy rice crisps, this candy is so addictive it should come with a warning label.

Yummy, yummy Sægreifinn, a small restaurant located on the old Reykjavík harbor, is famous for its lobster soup and the foul-smelling fermented skate (pictured). Photo/Valli

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With all the trimmings The hot dogs at Bæjarins beztu have been called the world’s best. Former President of the United States, Bill Clinton, agrees. Photo/GVA

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Food and Fun 2015

Photo/Stefán

List of restaurants and chefs

Food and lots of fun The culinary festival kicks off on February 25th. The event links together internationally acclaimed chefs from Europe and America and some of Reykjavík’s finest restaurants.

Apótekið is partnered with Fernando Trocca who has worked in Buenos Aires, Italy, and New York.

Sjávargrillið will work with the Finnish Cook of the Year 2014, Heikki Liekola, to create an exciting menu.

Kol will work side by side with Irish chef Robin Gill to create the restaurant’s Food and Fun menu.

Satt in Hotel Natura and chef Alberto Navarette, the executive chef at La Luce in Orlando, have partnered up.

Kopar collaborates with Italian/American chef Michael Ferraro to bring you a tasty treat.

Kolabrautin joins forces with Italian chef David Tamburini to bring a little piece of Italy to Iceland.

Sushisamba joins forces with chef Douglas Rodriguez from Cuba, also known as the Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine.

Steikhúsið and American chef Hamilton Johnson has created the Food and Fun menu for steak-lovers.

Nauthóll is joined with Icelandic/Norwegian chef Atli Már Yngvason.

Kjallarinn joins hands with chef Felipe Mil­ anes. Born in Panama City, Milanes moved to the United States to study culinary arts and to work.

Smurstöðin at Harpa Concert Hall will work with Swedish chef Frida Ronge.

Grand Restaurant in the Grand Hotel is partnered with Danish chef Philip Scheel Grønkjær.

VOX in the Hilton Hotel has teamed up with Hussein Mustapha, chef de cuisine at Mielcke & Hurtigkarl restaurant in Copenhagen.

Lava Restaurant at the Blue Lagoon will work with chef de cuisine Michael Wilson from the United States, who has created the menu for the Lava restaurant.

Höfnin will work with American chef Tim Kuklinski.

Grillið in Hotel Saga will work side by side with English/Danish chef Paul Cunningham.

Gallery Restaurant in Hotel Holt came together with chef Mark Lundgaard from Denmark to create their Food and Fun menu.

Dill collaborates with renowned Norwegian chef Even Ramsvik.

Fiskfélagið and Swedish chef Adam Dahlberg, who has worked in Sweden, London and Paris, will team up.

See more: www.foodandfun.is

The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.

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R E Y K J AV Í K

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TEL.+354 517 7474

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Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley.

The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér!

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Gods Goddesses

The old Nordic heathen Ásatrú has much to recommend it.

First off it´s non-authoritarian and decentralized. There´s no founder, no dusty old book whose interpretation people fiercely contest.

There´s no charter, no hierarchy and no dogma. It´s non-racist, practises gender equality and is open to all.

Words by Neil McMahon

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A celebratory feast Jóhanna Harðardóttir and Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson are two of nine Ásatrú goðar (priests) in Iceland. Four are women and five men. Photo/Stefán Karlsson

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ne pre-Christian religion that has been rapidly growing in popularity in Iceland in recent decades is the Ásatrú or Germanic neo-paganism, at the same time numbers in the State Lutheran Church have been steadily declining. Ásatrú translates literally as faith in the gods and has as its foundation the system of the old Norse religion practi­sed by Iceland´s early Viking settl­­­ ers. It´s a polytheistic religion mean­ing there´s a pantheon of deities including both Gods and Goddesses, the most famous one being the one-eyed Óðinn.

Iceland became Christian in 1000 AD when the pagan law-speaker of the day in a most generous gesture of conciliation agreed to the Christians´ demands. In so doing he saved the nation from being plunged into a bloody civil war. All the pagans asked in return was that they be allowed to practise their religion privately.

However once Christianity had esta­­­blis­­hed itself paganism was quickly suppress­ed.

this planet then Doomsday is a mere few decades down the road.

Two major contributing factors as to why we seem so complacent about these constant warnings are firstly how divorced an ever-growing urbanized world has become from the natural environment and secondly our increasing failure to nurture an inner spiritual self.

For centuries Christianity preached that Man was the supreme ruler and the earth´s resources were his for the taking.

This Christian worldview encouraged Europe´s aggressive drive to dominate and exploit nature in a spirit of complete indifference. With the bible in one hand and a sword or gun in the other, indi­­gen­­ ous peoples were conquered, empires built and the Western world rode the wave of the Industrial Revolution and so-called progress. Granted, industrialization brought many advances, but it all came at a terrible price, both to the environment and that existentialist sense of soullessness that so often haunts us in the first world.

Science and technology alone are not going to get us out of the present ecol­­­ ogical mess, we need to reconnect spiritually with the larger whole of reality.

Ideas and inspiration Hardly a day goes by without the media presenting some grim new findings as to how the world´s ecological environment is on the brink of imploding and that if there isn´t a radical and immediate chan­ ge in how we think and live our lives on

10 interesting facts about Ásatrú Ásatrú literally means “having faith in the

1 gods” and membership has grown from a mere 12 in 1972 to around 3,000 today. It became an officially recognized religion in Iceland in 1973.

Its source is the old Norse religion pract­i­­

2 c­­ed by Iceland´s early pagan settlers.

It´s a polytheistic religion, meaning it

3 has a range of gods and goddesses. In Iceland the most popular god and goddess are Þór and Freyja.

There´s no prescribed dogma or

4 scripture. You are however encouraged to read the Poetic and Prose Eddas written by the 13th-century chieftain and scholar, Snorri Sturlason. Ásatrú´s structure is highly democratic

5 with members always getting to choose the society´s board and who becomes a goði, i.e. a priest or priestess. Today there are nine goðar, four women and five men.

“The Ásatrú does not overly concern itself with the after life. Ásatrú focuses on the here and now.”

The three core principles are to cultivate a respect and responsibility for yourself and nature and to be honest and honourable in your dealings with others.

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No one actually prays to the gods and

7 how you might ask their intercession is entirely up to you. The gods are imperfect and not divine. They are seen more as friends and don´t judge us humans.

It costs nothing to join and is open

8 to all, irrespective of race, cultural

background, gender or sexual orientation. Ásatrú does not proseletize and people of any religious persuasion are welcome to their meetings or feasts.

Throughout the year there are regular

9 celebratory feasts or blót all over the

country. Foremost are the four major blót of the summer and winter soltices and the two equinoxes. Anyone is welcome to get married or have a naming ceremony for their child in the Ásatrú.

As a natural religion the Ásatrú stresses

10 the interconnection of all things and

A sacred place This is the Almannagjá canyon in Þingvellir National Park in South Iceland. Þingvellir is probably the most sacred place of the Ásatrú religion. It was the venue for the original Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament, that was established in 930. Photo/GVA

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

especially a respect for nature. Members are environmentally aware and know that for Mother Earth to be be bountiful she must be cared for and nurtured. In 2006 Europe´s largest dam was built in Iceland to generate electricity for an aluminium smelter. In the process large tracts of pristine wilderness were flooded. Ásatrú was the only religious group to protest and beg that the environment be spared.

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Unfortunately mainstream institutiona­­­ lized religions seem incapable of offering such a holistic perspective; however many ancient indigenous religions do and we should be looking to them for ideas and inspiration. As the Yale scholar John Grim states: Indigenous peoples are ecologists and purveyors of an environmental wisdom absent in the technologically developed, industrialized “first world.”

There´s no charter, no hierarchy and no dog­ ma … it is open to all.”

Here and now The Ásatrú has much to recommend it.

First off it´s non-authoritarian and de­ centralized. There´s no founder and no dusty old book whose interpretation people fiercely contest. There´s no charter, no hierarchy and no dogma. It´s non-racist, practises gender equality and is open to all. The Ásatrú does not overly concern itself with the after life. Ásatrú focuses on the here and now. If you do it well, the next life will take care of itself.

End of discussion.

Essentially it´s a philosophy emp­hasiz­ ing tolerance and individual liberty. Ásatrúar never seek to convert others and contrary to what we might think the Vikings didn´t belittle other people´s gods. Theirs was a policy of live and let live. A refreshing and enlightened attitude in the light of the religious intolerance and extremism sweeping the world today.

On a personal basis Ásatrú core values include honour, duty, courage and honesty. It recommends that you live a worth­­­while and useful life and stresses the value of family and kinship. High on the

P

The Ásatrúarfélag applied for a plot of land to construct a temple in 2006 and was allotted a piece of land in Öskuhlíð hill in 2008. The 350 square metres (3767 sq ft) temple will have a vault­­­ed ceiling and seat around 250 people. Its construction will be completed in 2016.

Close to downtown Reykjavík The building on top of Öskuhlíð hill is called Perlan (the Pearl), and built on top of tanks holding geothermal water. The pagan temple will be on the south side of the hill. Photo/GVA

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

Like other natural religions the Ásatrú believes the natural world is sacred and living. It sees an interconnection between all things, so living close to and in harm­ ory with nature is essential. As one Ásatrú follower put it: Experience nature.

Experience the Gods. Do not “think about” them or project your own images and definitions onto them. Let them speak for themselves. Get off the road, get

The First in 1000 Years

The Icelandic Ásatrúarfélag is an Icelandic Ger­ manic Neopagan religious organization found­­ed in 1972. The organization conducts ceremonies such as marriages, name-giving ceremonies, and burials.

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In tune with seasonal changes

out of your car, get away from the clamour of your fellow man! Feel the world. This is the way of Ásatrú.

The Icelandic Vikings were farmers and sailors, a people who were in tune with seasonal changes and respected the forces of nature. Battling the high seas of the Atlantic you called upon the ocean giant Ægir for protection, and when cultivating the land you invoked the favour of the fertility goddess Freyja.

So maybe it´s high time for us Western­ ers to quit being so culturally and in­ tellect­ually arrogant and with an open mind explore some of these natural religions, like the Ásatrú, which have been suppressed, ridiculed and margina­ lized over time. We might be very sur­pris­ ed indeed as to the answers they offer.

Ásatrú religion Essentially it´s a philosophy emp­hasiz­ing tolerance and individual liberty. Photo/Stefán Karlsson

lans to begin construction of a heathen temple in Öskjuhlíð hill, Reykjavík, have been set in motion.

This will be the first central pagan temple to be built in the Nordic countries in nearly a thousand years, according to the alsherjargoði Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson, head priest of the Icelandic Ásatrúarfélag.

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list are the qualities of self-reliance and perseverance, traits that are still deeply embedded in the Icelandic psyche and no doubt have helped this hardy isolated peo­ple in their struggle to survive in a harsh and often cruel environment.

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Like a candle in the wind A father, a daughter, and a policeman hiked up a cliff.

This is not the beginning of a joke, but rather a true story about a heartwarming tradition in the Westman Islands.

Words: Sara McMahon Photos: PĂŠtur SteingrĂ­msson

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Heimaklettur is a palagonite cliff that shelters the town of Vest­­­ mannaeyjar from the strong northern winds. It stands 279 meters high and has become an emblem of sorts for the island. Geologically speaking, it is one of the oldest parts of the island, dating back ten thousand years.

To reach the top of the cliff, one must climb up two rather steep, wooden ladders, no easy task for the faint-hearted, believe me.

Pétur Steingrímsson, a police officer in the Westman Islands, hikes up Heimaklettur cliff every other day, all year round, in order to light an outdoor candle on its slopes for other people to enjoy during the winter months. Svavar Steingrímsson, no relation, and his daughter Halla do so as well. They have been doing this for five years now and intend to carry on the tradition for as long as their health allows.

It becomes addictive and in order to feed your addiction you hike up the cliff again and again, at the same time you feel the body growing stronger and the mind becoming calmer.”

Phone calls to the police “The first couple of days after we first started to light the candles in Heimaklettur, my colleagues at the police station got a number of phone calls from concerned people who thought someone was in trouble and trying to signal for help. The police knew about my little hikes up Heimaklettur cliff and kindly told the callers not to worry, no one was in danger, it was only a candle that I had lit. They also very logically pointed out that in this day and age most would probably phone for help instead of lighting a candle,” Pétur recalls.

The policeman was born and raised on the island and has lived there his entire life, apart from a year spent on the mainland after the 1973 volcanic eruption. He began his regular hikes up Heimaklettur in 2009.

“I wanted to do more outdoor exercise and one lovely day I decided to hike up Heimaklettur,” he says, adding that the view from the top of the cliff is unprecedented. “It hits you from all angles and one can’t help but feel amazed by its beauty. It becomes addictive and in order to feed your addiction you hike up the cliff again and again, at the same time you feel the body growing stronger and the mind becoming calmer. In the beginning I resolved to hike up Heimaklettur every other day, all year around. This is still my goal, although I haven’t always been able to stick to that plan,” he explains. “It can take from an hour to up to three hours to hike up Heimaklettur, depending on your state of mind. You can either sprint or stroll up to the top.”

On his hikes up Heimaklettur, he would regularly encounter other hikers. Among those were Svavar Steingrímsson and his daughter Halla.

“When the days got shorter, the three of us would bring outdoor candles on our hikes, place them in a sheltered spot on the mountain side and light them. I can’t remember what made us do this, most likely it was merely for our own pleasure. It wasn’t a joint decision to start with, but with time it developed into teamwork. Each one of us has a special candle spot – one clearly visible from our homes. The candles can burn for ten to twelve hours in calm weather.”

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n late October last year, I went to visit my family in the Westman Islands, a cluster of fif­­ teen islands off the south coast of Iceland, only one of which is inhabited. A friend of mine had tagged along and as the ship delicately maneuvered its way into the harbor, she in­­ quir­­ed: “Where are the candles you told me about?”

My eyes quickly scanned the towering cliff facing us, Heimaklettur, which translates as Home Cliff, and then I pointed out a little candle flame that flickered to and fro in the wind. “There it is! And there’s another one!” I exclaimed, surprisingly excited about the whole thing. It was simply such a welcoming sight after driv­­ ing through rain, sleet, and a driv­­ing northerly wind to get to this remote location.

On the top Pétur Steingrímsson and his wife on the top of Heimaklettur cliff.

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Like a candle in the wind

A heartening gesture Most evenings, after darkness descends, one can see the candle flames fluttering on top of the cliff. Some days it is just the one, other days you can spot three. According to Pétur, his fellow islanders find the gesture quite heartening.

“The unlikeliest of people have commented on it and told us how much they enjoy it. Should I not hike up Heimaklettur on a good day, people often want to know the reason why,” Pétur says, adding: “I was extremely touched when I found out that patients at the hospital enjoyed seeing the glow in the distance.

The cliff is in plain view from the hospital and many have told me the sight fills them with a sense of joy and warmth. Others would search for the flame before going to bed at night.”

An old friend of Pétur was so thankful that he had his daugh­ ter, an artist, do a painting of Heimaklettur and present­­ed it to Pétur as a token of his gratitude.

To start wi th, the trio paid for the candles from their own pocket, but as their gesture continued to attract attention, others began to chip in. The Heimaey Candle Factory is among those who lend a helping hand, and Pétur is thankful for their help.

“They make excellent candles that burn for hours on end.

The managing director views this as good advertising and gives us a generous discount,” the kind-hearted policeman concludes.

“I was extremely touched when I found out that patients at the hospital enjoyed seeing the glow in the distance.”

H Heading back Pétur and his fellow hikers heading back home.

Feeding the sheep Sheep roam freely around Heimaklettur all year around. Here Pétur can be seen feeding the animals some delicious bread. The view from the top is quite something

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HAVE A GOOD ONE!

Steikhúsið / The Steakhouse — Tryggvagata 4-6 — 101 Reykjavík Booking: +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is

w w w. s t e a k . i s

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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Like a candle in the wind

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Bonfires on the hillside For decades, the people of the Westman Islands, or Eyjamenn as Icelanders call them, have lit candles and bonfires on mountain slopes for special occasions. It began in 1948 when one of the two local football teams, Týr, organized celebrations for the Feast of the Epiphany on the 6th of January. This is the last day of Christmas, and on that day the thirteen mischievous Icelandic Yule Lads head back to their homes in the mountains.

The festivities end with a huge communal bonfire on the slopes of the mountain Há, where humans, Yule Lads, elves, trolls, and imps all come together for festive song and dance and formally bid farewell to Christmas.

Bonfires are also a big part of New Year’s Eve. Members of the other football team, Þór, would use hemp to form the club’s crest and the date, place it on the slope of Helgafell mountain and set it on fire just before midnight. This tradition has since been abolished.

For some years, a local would hike up Heimaklettur on New Year’s Eve, arrange a number of outdoor candles and light them. The candles would burn through the end of the old year and into the new.

“For some reason this person stopped doing this and Svavar Steingrímsson and Halla took over. All this candle-lighting activity is highly dependent on good weather, which is not always the case around these parts,” Pétur says.

Pétur and fellow hikers It can take from an hour to up to three hours to hike up Heimaklettur, depending on one’s state of mind.

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A light flicker Pétur, Svavar and Halla all have their special candle spot - one clearly visible from their homes.

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Iceland Mag explains Reykjavík Demand to buy properties in the centre of the capital is much greater than the availability. This rings especially true about property under ISK 30 million (US$ 230,000).

Thinking About A Second Home in Iceland?

Question: How hard is it for foreigners to purchase property in Iceland?

Answer: Citizens living in member states of the European Economic Area (EEA) may acquire property rights in Iceland without the permission of the Minister of Justice. These include: Employees who are citizens of a member state of the EEA and who work as such in Iceland, or have an EEA resi­­dence permit; EEA and EFTA citizens who have established themselves, or intend to establish themselves, in Iceland in order to engage in independent business operations; EEA and EFTA citizens and comp­ anies who are domiciled in another member state and have esta­­blis­­hed, or intend to esta­blish, a branch or an agent’s office in Iceland, or who intend to render services in Iceland.

Non-EEA citizens must have a domicile in Iceland in order to purchase real property in the country and need the Minister’s permission.

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The Ásatrú Association has legal au­­ thor­ity to con­­ duct cere­­mon­­ ies such as marr­­­iages, name-givings, and burials.

Answer: Only foreign citizens domiciled in Iceland can become members of the Ásatrúarfélag, but anyone, regardless of their nationality or residence, can practise ásatrú (which means the ‘belief in the old Nordic gods’). The pagan faith is based on tolerance, honesty, honour, respect for nature, and the belief that every man is responsible for his own actions.

According to information from Jóhanna Harðardóttir, Kjalnesingargoði, an officer of the Association, a large number of visitors come to Iceland to get married in accordance with ásatrú. The Ásatrú Association has legal authority to conduct ceremonies such as marriages, name-givings, and burials.

The Association welcomes visitors to weekly meetings every Saturday between 2 pm and 4 pm and will gladly answer questions regarding ásatrú. These meetings have been attended by people from Europe, the United States, Canada, Australia, and Africa.

ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 63788 04/13

Question: Can foreign citizens become members of the Icelandic Ásatrú Association?

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Iceland Magazine explains

Question: We are doing a twoday stopover in Iceland – any recommendations for what to see and do?

Answer: Given that you have two full days to explore, we recommend you visit the Reykjanes pe ninsula first. Take a trip to the Blue Lagoon and have lunch at the popular Lava restaurant. Visit the Icelandic Muse­­ um of Rock (& roll) in Keflavík, and don’t forget to stop at the Gunnu­­ hver geothermal area, and Eldvörp, a collection of eighteen volcanic craters that formed during a volcan­­ic eruption in 1224. The area is con­­­sidered to be a unique geological phenomenon, but for some reason very few people take the time to visit it.

The second day could either be spent walking around Reykjavík (our Reykjavík Guide is available on­­line) or taking the Golden Circle Tour (self-drive or with one of many tour operators), which will take you to Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Water­­­fall, and Geysir geothermal area (location of the eponymous geyser).

Enjoy your stay!

Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

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Waterfall Öxarárfoss Þingvellir national park is only 30 minutes drive from the capital and is a great destination in all seasons.

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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design

Childhood friends Föðurland was established in 2014 by childhood friends Hera and Sjonni.

Smarty pants!

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celandic nature is not only to be admired and enjoyed – it’s also wearable. The clothing brand Föðurland was established in 2014 by two child­­­hood friends, Hera and Sjonni.

They have created a collection of leggings covered with mesmerizing land­scape prints by Icelandic photo­ grapher Sigur­­­geir Sigurjónsson, who happ­ens to be Sjonni’s father.

The idea of creating nature prints first came to Hera many years ago when she was given a book by the photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand that included gorgeous aerial images. The idea popp­­ ed up again when she saw Sigur­­­geir’s book, Earthward. The book contains otherworldly aerial photographs of Ice­­ land, which Hera thought would suit the project perfectly.

The brand’s name, Föðurland, has two different meanings in Icelandic; it can mean “fatherland,” but is also a term used for “long johns.” A perfect name, seeing as the duo manages to combine the two in their design. “We incorporate fine cotton and beautiful aerial photos of Icelandic landscape in our design. The leggings can be worn as day-wear or as

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

Photos/Sigur­­­geir Sigurjónsson

Childhood friends Ágústa Hera Harðardóttir and Sigurjón Sigurgeirsson created ‘Föðurland,’ a collection of colourful cotton leggings covered with Icelandic rivers, wastelands, and mountains.

Föðurland is a collection of leggings covered with Icelandic rivers, wastelands, and mountains.

Where would you go for Icelandic design?

“We would most likely go to stores like Kraum, Baugar & bein, Kiosk, and Mýrin to buy local design.”

Where would you go to be inspired?

“You can be inspired by Icelandic nature pretty much anywhere.”

underwear to keep you warm during cold winter days,” they explain.

The products have received wide­­ spread attention in Iceland, and Hera

It can mean “fat­her­­­land,” but is also a term used for “long johns.”

ad­­mits that the positive feedback has inspired them to extend their col­lect­ ion. “We’ve felt some pressure to add pro­­­ducts to our collection, and it’s some­thing we’re currently working on.

We’ll defi­­nitely have something new out this year.”

Those who crave clothing covered with beautiful mountains, pristine riv­ers, and colourful deserts can purch­­ase Föður­­­land leggings at the duo’s gallery at Hverfis­gata 71, in Kraum at Aðal­­stræti 10, Reykja­­vík, and Baugar & bein at Strandgata 32 in Hafnarfjörður.

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

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Iceland Magazine / issue #01 2015

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