Issue 02 2015
The puffins are heading home
P 12
Local slow food with a twist
P 20
Europe’s largest whale museum
P 36
T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e
Yo ur
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The Majestic North 13 reasons to visit Eyjafjörður fjord and the surrounding area
p.22
Street Style
Dressing up for the Reykjavík Fashion Festival Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e
The Blue Lagoon Departure: Various Duration: Flexible Price: 3.700 ISK Entrance fee not included.
Golden Circle Departures: 08:30, 10:30, 13:00 Duration: 6 - 8,5 hours Price from: 9.000 ISK
Northern Lights* Departure: 21:00 Duration: 3 - 5 hours Price: 6.400 ISK
*Until 15 April
Book your tour now! iceland@grayline.is | +354 540 1313 | grayline.is
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Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
South Coast & Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Departure: 08:00 Duration: 14 hours Price: 24.900 ISK
Game of Thrones Departure: 13:00 Duration: 6 hours Price: 9.500 ISK
South Coast, Waterfalls & Glacier Hike Departure: 08:30 Duration 11 hours Price: 21.900 ISK
24 HOUR BOOKING SERVICE Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 Sales Office, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
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Contents
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from the editor
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Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
Seeking Balance
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sccording to a recently published survey conducted by the Icelandic Tourist Board, a considerable number of tourists visiting Iceland, or 40 percent of the poll’s partici pants, think that two of the country’s most popular destinations are too crowded com pared to other popular spots. I think this came as a surprise to many locals. Not that this was the visitors’ opinion, but rather that the percentage is so low and that only two places, Geysir geothermal area and Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, were mentioned. For residents and foreign Icelandophiles, who have been visit ing the country regularly for years, the crowd at many of the key destinations can feel quite overwhelming. For the new comer, however, it probably looks more or less like business as usual. It might always have been like this. It all comes down to expectations. We have all been tourists and visited places and sights in the company of many others. Last October, I walked New York’s fantastic High Line public park with my family and thousands of others on a beautiful sunny Saturday. It was extremely crowded but it was a great day. We would not have missed it for the world. But then we also sought out other paths less travelled in the city. Often it’s the little things that are the greatest sources of experience and memories. Similarly in Iceland, we now have hotspots that will always be crowded with people. If that bothers you, skip them. We still have plenty of places that can make you feel like you are the only person on the planet. Iceland is a big country, and the human hand has shaped less than 5 percent of it. Seek out your own secret canyon or waterfall. That said, tourism could wreak havoc if left unchecked. It is important to find a balance between tourists, residents, and nature preservation. That is the joint responsibility of the state, local governments, and the travel industry itself. If not, Iceland could become a victim of its success.
26 Contents 6-16 Lookout 6 Journey into the center of a glacier 8 Former Reykjavík mayor is blazing a trail in Texas 10 Bringing spring to Iceland 12 Puffins return to shore 14-6, Honouring the Hammond pipe organ, Music festival in the town of Hafnarfjörður, the South Iceland Farm Day and more highlights ahead. 18 Icelandic Fare With a Twist Newly opened restaurant Matur & drykkur offers traditional, Icelandic dishes, but with a twist. The restaurant has quickly become a favourite among local and international gourmands. 22 Street Style at the Reykjavík Fashion Festival The fashion shows did not only happen on the runway, they also took place on the street and we captured some of the street style looks at RFF this year. 26 13 Reasons to visit North Iceland in the Spring There are countless reasons why you should visit the beautiful Eyjafjörður fjordand the surrounding area in North Iceland. Here are a few!
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Jóna María Hafsteinsdóttir jmh@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Björn Árnason, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: Námaskarð geothermal area in North Iceland (see feature p. 30) Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com
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36 Enter the World of the Gentle Giants The Whales of Iceland exhibition in Reykjavík is the largest of its kind in Europe, with twenty-three handmade, life-size specimen models on display. Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
42 Iceland Magazine Explains Is going on organized day tours a good option, or is it better to rent a car? What does “Þetta reddast”, the unique Iceland catch phrase, mean? 46 How To Stay Safe Make your trip to Iceland a safe one with a little pre-planning.
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www.theviking.is TAX FREE Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
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Monster truck A modified MAN vehicle will transport guests to the mouth of the cave. Photo courtesy of the Icecave.
Journey to the Center of a Glacier
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Lonely Planet recently nominated the soon-to-be-open ice tunnel in Langjökull glacier to its shortlist of “the world’s hottest new travel experiences for 2015.”
onely Planet recently nominated the soon-to-be-open ice tunnel in Langjök ull glacier to its shortlist of “the world’s hottest new travel experiences for 2015.” The ice tunnel in Langjökull glacier that is opening this summer will give visitors a new and totally different view of the glacier and the impact that global warming has on the environment. The trip to the mouth of the tunnel is an adventure in itself, as it is located 1,260 metres (4,134 feet) above sea level on the west side of what is Iceland’s second largest ice cap. A huge modified truck will transport visitors safely alongside some deep gaping ice crevasses before they start the journey into the glacier. The tunnel is 500 m (1,640 ft) long and goes 30 m (98 ft) under the ice cap at the deepest. It consists of numerous nooks and dens that will house exhibitions, information, restaurants, and even a small chapel for couples who would like to get married deep within an ice cap. – jk The tunnel opens June 1st. See more at www.icecave.is
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On thick ice Standing on top of the glacier, some 1,450 m (4,760 ft) above sea level, the ice cap beneath you is up to 580 m (1,900 ft) thick.
Photos/Stefán Karlsson
The chapel Adventurous couples can soon opt to tie the knot deep inside a glacier.
WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU PRE-BOOKING REQUIRED
Blue Lagoon has limited availability Book online at bluelagoon.com
Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
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Lookout highlights ahead
Björk and John Grant at Iceland Airwaves 2015 Björk and John Grant will be among performers at this year’s music festival Iceland Airwaves, taking place in Reykjavík, November 4th to 8th. The Icelandic Symphony Orchestra will accompany John Grant on his concert in Reykjavík’s magnificent Harpa music hall. Among foreign acts at Iceland Airwaves 2015 are Hinds, Father John Misty, Ariel Pink, East India Youth while local acts include GusGus, Agent Fresco, Fufanfu, Amabadaba and Emmsjé Gauti.
Blazing a Trail in Houston Reykjavík old harbour You can expect bright and still days like this in April but also sleet and strong gales. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
A Unique Icelandic Public Holiday The tradition of the First Day of Summer is based on the Old Norse calendar.
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umardagurinn fyrsti, which trans lates to the First Day of Summer, is a unique Icelandic public holiday celebrated on Thursday. The annual holiday takes place every year on the first Thursday after April 18th. This year it’s on April 23rd. However, the climate in Iceland in April is usually nothing like summer. Snow showers, strong gales and temperature below 0 Celsius (32 F) are to be expected
in between warmer days. That’s spring in Iceland. The tradition of the First Day of Summer is based on the Old Norse calendar that divided the year into only two seasons, winter and summer. Late April was and still is thought to be a fairly safe time to celebrate the end of a long, cold winter. “Gleðilegt sumar!” (Happy summer) is the greeting to use this day, even though it might be snowing.
Former mayor of Reykjavík, comedian Jón Gnarr, is currently living in Houston, Texas, serving as the first Rice University’s Centre for Energy and Environmental Research in the Human Sciences writer-in-residence. Jón moved to the States with his family at the beginning of the year and in a new interview with Houstonia Magazine he explains he was expecting a different kind of city than he encountered. “I expected Houston to be more macho, you know? More cowboy. More gun shows. I was expecting to see this J.R. [Ewing] type of male.” The interview (see houstonmag.com) is an excellent read with Jón in great form posing alternatively dressed as a cowboy and in a sombrero and poncho branding a banana.
Don’t Do This Two American tourists were spotted playing a dangerous game at the Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon, South Iceland, this spring. The two guys ventured out on to the icebergs floating in the glacier lagoon, stripped to their underwear and fooled around making their travelling companions laugh. This kind of behaviour is however no laughing stock as the icebergs can suddenly tip over, submerging
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people in the freezing deep waters of the lagoon. Travel operators at the lagoon put up a sign some years ago, warning visitors not to go onto the ice. However many choose to not heed the warning. Please don’t do that. This is serious. If you fall into the water there is no formal security or rescue unit on location. We should respect the nature.
??????????????? ??????????????? ???????????? ??????????? Not a wise move The icebergs can flip without a warning. The freezing cold water can be a shock to the body and there is no rescue unit ???? on location. Screenshot from a video by tour guide Þórarinn Jónsson. See more tips about safe travel in Iceland on page 46.
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PHOTO
The artic tern Be careful close to the habitats of this small bird, it will mount a fierce attack if you go to close to its nest. Photos/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Meet the Birds That Bring Spring to Iceland
as it migrates along a convoluted route from its breeding grounds in Iceland and Greenland to the Antarctic coast. Like puffins, the Arctic terns mate for life and return to the same colony every year. The Arctic tern is known to be fiercely defensive of its nest and young. They will attack humans and predators by repeatedly striking the tops of their heads should they venture too close to a nest. A large Arctic tern colony is found near Arnarstapi on the Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland. Consider this a warning.
After a long, dark winter, most Icelanders begin to long for warmer, brighter days. To many, the first sign of spring is the appearance of migratory birds, such as the golden plover, the Arctic tern, and the whimbrel, flocking to their summer breeding grounds in Iceland.
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1 The European golden plover, called heiðlóa in Icelandic, holds a special place in the hearts of Icelanders as its arrival traditionally marks the beginning of spring. The first golden plover of 2015 was spotted in Breiðdalur in East Iceland in mid-March, and its longawaited arrival even made headlines. The golden plover usually makes its first appearance in March, although the mass migration does not happen until a month later. The breed is so common in Iceland, it is considered to be a national bird. Its peeping call is emblematic of Icelandic spring and summer.
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
3 Puffins spend the autumn and winter out at sea but return to land to breed in late spring. Iceland is home to more than half of the world’s puffin population. Puffins are usually monogamous and return to the same burrows year after year. Both parents care for their young. The male spends most of his time guarding and maintaining the nest, while the female incubates. 4 The Arctic tern, called kría in Icelandic, is a strongly migratory species, seeing two summers each year
5 The spói, or whimbrel, is a wader in the larger family of Scolopacidae and is quite common in Iceland during summer. Much like the lóa, the whimbrel’s distinctive call instills in Icelanders the feeling that summer is finally here. -SM
Photo/Marek Slusarczyk via Wikipedia
Photo/Quirin Herzog via Wikipedia
2 In March every year, flocks of gallant swans fight their way through driving winds from Ireland and Scotland to arrive finally in East Iceland. The first swans of 2015 arrived in Lón, Krossbær, and Djúpivogur in East Iceland on March 9th.
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An old nursery rhyme dedicated to the whimbrel and golden plover is still popular among kindergarten children. Sá ég spóa Suður í flóa Syngur lóa út um móa: “bí, bí, bí, bí.” Vorið er komið víst á ný.
I saw a whimbrel South of the marsh Among the tussocks the golden plover sings: “bee, bee, bee, bee” Spring has arrived again
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DUUSHÚS
Duusgata 2-8, 230 Reykjanesbær
Wondering about Icelandic art and history? Welcome to Duushús in the heart of Reykjanesbær only 5 minutes from Keflavík int‘l airport. - Maritime Center
GiGanta in the Cave Stop by Giganta‘s Cave – she welcomes everyone especially kids
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Duushús, lista- og menningarmiðstöð Reykjanesbæjar / Tel. 420-3245 Iceland / www.skessan.is Iceland Mag/ issue / vol. #02 #09 2015 2014 Magazine
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The
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Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Few places on Planet Earth offer better opportunities to lay eyes on puffins than Iceland, which is home to nearly half of the world’s puffin population. These small, beautiful penguin-like birds spend autumn and winter out on the open sea but fly back to shore in late April to breed. They are usually monogamous and return home to the same burrows every year. The population has been on a steady decline in Iceland in the past decade, believed to be caused by food shortages in the ocean as the result of climate changes. Puffins are, however, not an endangered species. Millions of them grace the hills and cliffs of Iceland’s coasts during spring and summer, before they take off again to the open sea in the autumn. - jk
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Lookout highlights ahead
To the Extreme The annual snowboarding and music festival AK Extreme takes place on April 9−12 in Akureyri, North Iceland. The Big Jump competition that takes place on the Saturday in Gilið, a steep street in the town’s centre, is the highlight of the festival. The street is transformed into a huge drop-in and kicker and becomes the location where some of Iceland’s best snowboarders will attempt to win the Big Jump title for 2015.
Run, run, run The Flóahlaupið run takes place in Selfoss on April 11. Participants can chose to run 3, 5, or 10 kilometres (1.8, 3, or 6 miles) and in different age groups. When: April 11
When: April 9−12. See: akx.is
In honour of the Hammond pipe Country fun
The annual music festival Hammondhátíð in the East Iceland town of Djúpivogur is held in celebration of the Hammond pipe organ located in that town. This year‘s line-up includes artists such as Amabadama, Kiryama Family, Prins Póló, Bubbi and Dimma, Jónas Sigurðsson og Ritvélar framtíðarinnar, and veterans Maggi Eiríks and Pálmi Gunnars. The artists are encouraged to incorporate the great organ into their work.
Sunnlenski sveitadagurinn or the South Iceland Farm Day is a family festival dedicated to farming. The festival takes place in the village of Selfoss, located a short 40-minute drive from Reykjavík. The fair is ideal for those travelling with children
When: April 23−26. See: hammond.djupivogur.is
When: May 2
Top of the pops Among Heima Festival’s line up are: Emmsjé Gauti (pictured), Jón Jónsson, KK, Dimma, Town Þorlákshöfn Brass Band, Eivör Pálsdóttir, Berndsen and Kiriyama Family.
On the track Through lava fields.
Photo/Pjetur Sigurðsson
Racing on skis
Musical Intimacy
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Living room concerts in the small town of Hafnarfjörður.
t hardly gets more inti mate than attending a concert in someone’s living room. That’s exactly what you have a chance to experience at the one-night music festival Heima (meaning ‘home’) on April 23rd, the last day of winter according to the Icelandic calendar. Thirteen artists will perform in thirteen private homes all over the small town of Hafnarfjörður, on the outskirts of the capital area. Each band or artist will
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present two concerts at two different homes, providing an intimate setting for both performers and listeners. The line-up boasts some of Iceland’s most popular musicians with everything from rap, rock, and blues, to brass and techno on the menu. The Culture Club of Hafnarfjörður is organising the event. Tickets are available at www.midi.is, price 4.900 krónur (ISK) or 33 EUR/36 USD. How to get there: Bus route 1 runs from Hlemmur square in the centre of Reykjavík to Hafnarfjörður centre.
The annual cross-country ski race known as Orkugangan, the Energy Trek, takes participants from Krafla caldera, located in the Mývatn district, to the fishing village of Húsavík. Orkugangan is the longest crosscountry ski race in Iceland and gets its name from the natural energy found in the Mývatn area. The race track runs through the active rift zones of Northeast Iceland, where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet. Participants will race through lava fields, mountain ranges, and uninhabited wilderness before reaching the finish mark in Húsavík. When: April 11 When: orkugangan.is/english
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Highlights ahead
Photo/GVA
Lookout
Take Me to Church Mass in Icelandic or English? Your choice.
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o experience a church service or a mass in a language that you don’t understand can be a soulful experience, but some churches in Reykjavík also offer services in English and other languages. Iceland’s only Catholic church, Christ the King Cathedral, is located in a beautiful building at Hávallagata 14-16. Lutherans can choose between three churches, also located in Reykjavík’s centre: Hallgrímskirkja, the capital’s most prominent landmark and the small Reykjavík Cathedral (Dómkirkjan) at Austurvöllur square are owned by the National Evangelical Lutheran Church (to which 80% of Iceland’s population belong), and the Free Church (Fríkirkjan) in Reykjavík, an independent congregation stationed in a lovely old wood and corrugated iron church by Lake Tjörnin (the Pond).
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Hallgrímskirkja church Built on Skólavörðuholt hill towers 75 meters (244 feet) over the downtown. On top, you have an observation tower, with probably the best view of the capital and surrounding mountains.
See more: icelandmag.com
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While you might stop for fuel, you can stay for the food, travel necessities, books and magazines, or grab a cup of coffee before heading out again.
To find your nearest location and plan your trip, log on to www.n1.is/locations
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N1 operates a network of 95 locations all around Iceland. That means you’re never far away from the energy you need for your journey.
Keep moving
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Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015 I 17 Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.spacity.is
Bringing back the old Chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson owns and runs the newly opened restaurant Matur og drykkur. He focuses on traditional, Icelandic cuisine but serves it in a new and innovative way. Photos/Björn Árnason
Icelandic Fare With a Twist Newly opened restaurant Matur & drykkur offers traditional, Icelandic dishes, but with a twist. The restaurant has quickly become a favourite among local and international gourmands. Words by Sara McMahon
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hef Gísli Matthías Auð unsson, Albert Munoz, and three sisters, Inga, Elma, and Ágústa Backman, own and run a newly opened restaurant simply called Matur & drykkur, meaning Food and Drink. The eatery, located on Grandagarður 2 by the old harbour area in Reykjavík’s centre, open ed for business in January and quickly became a favourite among local and international gourmands. The menu consists of traditional, Icelandic dishes
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such as hashed fish, cod liver, and the humble “pylsa” (hot dog) with all the trimmings, but served in new and innovative ways. “Our goal is to make Icelanders proud of their culinary tra ditions. We all know how tasty Icelandic food is, but it can also be a lot of fun if prepared with care,” Gísli Matthías ex plains. “The idea to take traditional dishes and elevate them has been mulling inside my head for years. But the timing was never quite right. Not until now.”Gísli Matthías’s enthusiasm for
On the waterfront The restaurant is located by the old harbour area.
Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley. The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl
A fresh Cod’s head Matur & drykkur and focuses on locally sourced products.
Icelandic cuisine is born out of pride, he says. He is proud to be Icelandic and loves the country’s culture, natural beauty and, of course, the food. “As a young, up-and-coming chef, I almost felt it was my duty to promote Icelandic cuisine and help preserve the old culinary traditions. Also, I wanted to support local farmers and producers cre ating products according to old customs.” Matur & drykkur is not the only chall enging endeavour this enthusiastic young chef has taken on. Together with his parents, Katrín Gísladóttir and Auðunn Stefánsson, and his sister, the artist Indíana Auðunsdóttir, he also runs the restaurant Slippurinn on Heimaey island, the largest in the Westman Islands archi pelago. Slippurinn embraces the same ideology as Matur & drykkur and focuses on locally sourced products. “Often you don’t have to look very far for something, it can actually be right in your back garden,” says Gísli Matthías with a smile. Despite Slippurinn only being open during summer, it has become one of Iceland’s most interesting restaurants. Gísli looks forward to opening Slippurinn again this summer and does not fear the workload will become too much.
“I’ve got a great staff, both here at Mat ur & drykkur and in the Westman Islands, so I’m not worried it’ll become too much to handle.” The menu at Matur & drykkur changes frequently and according to the season. Currently the menu includes “classics” such as halibut soup, a hot dog with all the trimmings, Icelandic flat bread with hot smoked trout and a tasting-menu for those who want to try a little bit of everything. Gísli Matthías says Iceland ers have praised his take on beloved, traditional dishes, while foreign connois seurs of food enjoy tasting something new and different. Bon appetit! What’s your favourite product to cook with? “I can’t decide between sheep sorrel and rhubarb. I love them equally. When it comes to seafood, nothing compares to lemon sole and blue ling.” What’s your favourite dish? “Good question. There’s so much to choose from. I truly love a well-made Icelandic meat soup, as well as leg of lamb served with peas, rhubarb jam and ‘brún sósa,’ which is the Icelandic equivalent of gravy. I also enjoy seasonal dishes such as smoked leg of lamb with béchamel sauce and potatoes, and smoked puffin with butter. Delicious!”
www.maturogdrykkur.is Grandagarður 2 101 Reykjvik
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Opening hours: Lunch from Monday to Sunday Evenings: Thursdays to Saturdays
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V i si t Ic e l a n dm ag .c om Your source for daily news from Iceland, local tips & expertise
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Classic Mixing black and white never seems to go out of fashion as this young man demonstrates. Photos/Sara
It takes two These two fashionable ladies rocked a bit of colour to their black outfits.
Street Style
RFF
The sixth annual Reykjavík Fashion Festival took place on March 13–14, when six Icelandic designers showcased their AW15 collections in the Harpa Conference Hall in Reykjavík. As is often the case during fashion events such as this, the fashion shows did not only happen on the runway, they also took place on the street. Sara McMahon captured some of the street style looks at RFF this year.
The “In Crowd” The fashion crowd and fashion lovers flocked to RFF.
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Street Style
Black is the new black This fashionable duo wore all black.
RFF
Swanky Danish-born stylist Anna Clausen mixed a classic navy coat with a more casual dotted T-shirt.
ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 63788 04/13
Stylish Food connoisseur and chef Marentza Poulsen was all about the accessories.
Like mother, like daughter Celebrity chef Hrefna Rósa Sætran attended the fashion event with her daughter Hrafnhildur Skugga.
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Lady in blue Singer Rósa Birgitta Ísfeld stood out in her gorgeous blue coat.
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Hraundrangar Peaks In ร xnadalur valley on the way to Eyjafjรถrรฐur fjord.
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Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
Reasons to visit North Iceland in the Spring There are countless reasons why you should visit the beautiful Eyjafjörður fjord and the surrounding area in North Iceland. Here are a few! Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Eyjafjörður in North Iceland is the country’s longest fjord, measuring 60 kilometres (37 miles) from its mouth to the bottom. The scenic fjord is surrounded by tall, majestic mountains, filled with gurgling rivers, bellowing waterfalls, and lush forests. At the bottom of the fjord lies the town of Akureyri, Iceland’s second largest urban area—after the greater Reykjavík area, and often dubbed “the Capital of the North.” Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
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On the slopes The Hlíðarfjall ski area is located directly above Akureyri. On a sunny day the view over the town and the long beautiful Eyjafjörður fjord is magnificent.
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It’s the centre for winter sports of all sorts In Eyjafjörður you will find yourself spoilt for choice when it comes to winter activities. The Hlíðarfjall ski area is located on the slopes of Mt. Hlíðarfjall, located above Akureyri, and the neighbouring towns of Dalvík and Siglufjörður also boast good ski areas. Hlíðarfjall’s ski rental offers a complete range of equipment for alpine and cross-country skiing, and for snowboarding. Kaldbakur Tours offers daily ski trips on Mt. Kaldbakur from January until May. With its peak 1174 metres (3852 feet) above sea level, Mt. Kaldbakur is the longest ski slope in Iceland. Pisten bullies transport passengers to the top of the mountain, where they can enjoy the magnificent panoramic view before skiing, snowboarding, or walking back down.
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Bergmenn Mountain Guides offers specialized heli ski tours in Tröllaskagi from February until June. Skiers are transported by helicopter to the peak of a mountain at almost 1524 metres/ 5000 ft), where they will be awed by the million-dollar oceanic view, and where they will begin their descent on pristine, untouched slopes. Bergmenn also offers a variety of ice climbing trips, ranging from quick day trips to excursions lasting a whole week. A number of tour operators offer snowmobile tours in the area, while Inspiration Iceland offers wild and exciting dog sledding tours operated from Akureyri. During the excursion you’ll take on the role of an active musher, guiding your team of strong Siberian huskies. For those who want to try their luck fishing, there’s plenty of fish to be caught during Travel Viking’s ice fishing superjeep tour, which ends with a tasty barbecue.
2 It’s where the Christ mas spirit rules every day, all through the year.
It’s home to the traditional ‘leaf bread’ Laufabrauð, or leaf bread, originated in North Iceland at a time when wheat was an expensive rarity. These wafer-thin breads are traditionally made at Christmas time and decorated with leaf-like patterns. ,together carve patterns into These patterns have been transformed by designer Hugrún Ívarsdóttir and applied to gorgeous decorative table cloths and other items for the home.
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It’s Christmas all year around! The Christmas Garden, a short drive south of Akureyri, is a magical place to visit. It’s where the Christmas spirit rules every day, all through the year. Handmade Christmas ornaments, tidbits of traditional Icelandic Christmas food, and the Yule Lads are just some of the things to be found in Akureyri’s delightful Christmas House.
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13 Reasons to visit North Iceland in the Spring
Smells like spring Town Siglufjörður is framed with steep mountains on three sides. The North Atlantic Ocean is on the fourth.
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Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
It’s home to the Kaldi micro-brewery The micro-brewery Bruggsmiðjan in Árskógssandur produces one of Iceland’s most celebrated micro-beers. The owners offer guided tours around the plant and soon plan to extend its business by opening a small restaurant and a spa modelled after the popular Czech beer baths. On the way to Árskógssandur, one can make a brief stop to purchase locally fermented shark and calf skin
Because of the colourful village of Siglufjörður A visit to the lovely little fishing village of Siglufjörður should be on everyone’s bucket list. Located near the town’s harbour is the Herring Era Museum, where one can experience the heyday of Iceland’s herring industry. The museum is a re-creation of a typical herring factory and consists of three buildings, each showing a different aspect of the herring industry. Þjóðlagasetrið, or the Folk Music Centre, is based in a house dubbed the ‘Madame House.’ Reverend Bjarni Þorsteinsson lived in the house from 1888 to 1898. The Reverend was a composer as well as a collector of old, traditional folk songs known as ‘vísur’ in Icelandic.
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For those traveling with children, Jónas arlaug is a barrel of fun.
The swimming pool in Þelamörk Jónasarlaug in Þelamörk is named after the beloved 19th-century poet Jónas Hallgrímsson, who was born in Öxnadalur in Eyjafjörður. The swimming pool was built by members of the local youth association and completed in 1945. For those traveling with children, Jónasarlaug is a barrel of fun.
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The heat within Námaskarð geothermal area is located near the famous Krafla caldera, which is on a 90 kilometre (56 miles)-long fissure zone in Northeast Iceland.
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The short drive to Mt. Námafjall Námafjall is a volcanic mountain located within a geothermal area known as Hverir. The area is situated in the beautiful Mývatn region, only a twenty minute-long drive from Akureyri. The hot springs found at the foot of Mt. Námafjall are simply spectacular and known for their changing variety and magnificent colours. Fumaroles, boiling mud pots, and a variety of sulphur crystals are also to be found in the Hverir area. Avid hikers can also trek up the hiking trail to Námaskarð pass and the mountain itself. Námafjall is located near the famous Krafla caldera, a 90 kilometre (56 miles)-long fissure zone in Northeast Iceland. There have been dozens of reports of eruptions in the area since the settlement of Iceland.
Námafjall is a volcanic mountain located within a geothermal area known as Hverir.
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Brynjuís ice cream parlour in Akureyri According to those in the know, this is one of Iceland’s best ice cream parlours. It’s also the perfect stop after a family outing to the Akureyri swimming pool.
Because of all the art The Centre for Visual Arts was opened in 2012. The centre is divided into three separate venues: The Akureyri Art Museum, Ketilshús, and Deiglan, all located in Listagil, or the Art Ravine, in the Akureyri city centre.
Hrísey island Hrísey island is the second largest island off the coast of Iceland and has a population of around 120 people. There are no natural predators in Hrísey, making it a paradise for those who enjoy bird-watching. The ferry to Hrísey leaves the port of Árskógssandur every two hours and the trip takes about 15 minutes.
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13 Reasons to visit North Iceland in the Spring
Main street On Aðalstræti (meaning Main Street) in town Akureyri you will find more than one museum.Pictured here is the home of the Toy Exhibition.
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Aðalstræti, or Main Street, is located in the old part of Akureyri’s centre. The quaint street runs along the ocean front and is dotted with gorgeous old houses and interesting museums. Located on Aðalstræti, one will find the Aviation Museum, the Motorcycle Museum of Iceland, the Industrial Museum, the Toy Exhibition in Friðbjarnarhús, Nonnahús—the house of the writer Jón Sveinsson (“Nonni”), and the Akureyri Museum, to name only a few!
Kjarnaskógur forest This lovely woodland, located only a short drive south of Akureyri, is chock full of interesting hiking and mountain bike trails. In winter, the area is perfect for cross-country skiing. The forest is also home to a diverse array of bird species, making it the perfect spot for bird-lovers, who are able to watch the birds from a special shelter by the Hundatjörn marsh in Naustaborgir. What’s more, there is a large play area for children.
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Aðalstræti in Akureyri
Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
The forest is also home to a diverse array of bird species, making it the perfect spot for bird-lovers.
Wooden sculptures in Hörgárdalur Icelandic sculptor Aðalheiður S. Eyjólfsdóttir lives and works in Freyjulundur. Travelers might recognize her wooden sculptures from the Icelandair Hotels, as each hotel is decorated with various sculptures made by Aðalheiður. The artist welcomes visitors to her home in Freyjulundur in Hörgárdalur valley all year round. For more information go to www.freyjulundur.is.
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Enter the World of the Gentle Giants The Whales of Iceland exhibition is the largest of its kind in Europe, with twenty-three handmade, life-size specimen models on display. Words by Sara McMahon
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Photos/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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The bigger the better The Whales of Iceland exhibition is the largest of its kind in Europe, with twenty-three handmade, life-size specimen models on display.
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he exhibition Whales of Iceland, located in a 1,700 square metre (18,299 square feet) large space in the Grandi harbour area of Reykjavík, was formally opened at the end of February this year. The exhibition is the largest of its kind in Europe, with twentythree handmade, life-size specimen models on display, some of which weigh up to 2 tonnes (4,409 pounds). The exhibition shines a spotlight on the whales found off the coast of Iceland, their biology and behaviour.
“I’d say the star of the show is most definitely the sperm whale in all its glory.”
The exhibition is the brainchild of local entrepreneur Hörður Bender. With the support of the Landsbréf Icelandic Tourism Fund, he worked closely with marine biologists, lighting designers, stage designers, architects, and other experts to create a fantastic experience for guests of all ages. Icelanders have flocked to Whales of Iceland following its grand opening and, according to Sædís Guðmundsdóttir, the exhibition’s managing director, they have shown great interest in learning more about these gentle giants that roam the North Atlantic Ocean.
A giant hunter of squid The sperm whale, the most popular speci men featured in the Whales of Iceland exhi bition, is unlikely to be confused with other whale species due to its large, block-shaped head. It is not only the largest of the toothed whales, it also has the largest and heaviest
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brain of any living animal. Sperm whales can weigh up to a staggering 45 tonnes (99208 pounds) and measure up to 20 metres (66 ft) in length. They feed mainly on squid, octo puses, and other deep water fish, but they also prey upon sharks and skates. They are
thought to consume approximately 3 percent of their body weight per day. When hunting, the sperm whale will dive to depths of up to 3,000 metres (9,842 ft), with each dive lasting up to two hours.
AST - IcelandMagazine 2015 3.pdf
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Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
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ON THE LOOKOUT You will find whale-watching operators around Iceland if you want to see the animals in their natural surroundings.
“So far, the majority of our guests are locals, but we also see a lot of foreigners as well as groups of school children who come here to learn,” Sædís explains. The show’s most popular speci men is the sperm whale. Known for its unique body shape and its huge, block-shaped head, it is one of the most easily recognisable whale species, and Sædís says guests love to strike a pose while standing next to the gigantic animal. “The exhibition presents guests with many fantastic photo opportunities, and we encourage people to take photographs and
The show’s most popular specimen is the sperm whale.
share them with friends and family, and of course, with us. I’d say the star of the show is most definitely the sperm whale in all its glory.”
Where: Fiskislóð 23-25 See: www.whalesoficeland.is Opening hours: Opening hours: Daily between 9 am and 6 pm
THERE SHE BLOWS! Whales of Iceland works closely with Ice landic whale-watching operators and eco tourism businesses to educate and inform the public about the lives of whales. Although Iceland continues to pursue com mercial whaling, public support for the industry has diminished over the years. The majority of Icelanders now prefer to focus
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solely on the non-lethal economic use of whales. The mink whale population found near the coast of Iceland has decreased in the past years, most likely due to climate change and lack of food, but also because of mink whale hunting. The Reykjavík city council has discussed the possibility of cre ating a whale sanctuary in Faxaflói bay off
Reykjavík, hoping that this will increase the mink whale population again. The sanctuary could cover an area from Garðskagi on the Reykjanes peninsula in the south to Arnarstapi on the Snæfellsnes peninsula to the north.
Explore the wonders of Vestmannaeyjar The unique islands south of Iceland, famous for their rich birdlife and volcanic activi
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Vestmannaeyjar islands The only inhabited island is Heimaey is 8 km (5 mi) from the south coast of Iceland.
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estmannaeyjar are 15 islands. They are famous for their birdlife, on islands is the world’s largest puffin colony. Bird watching tours are very popular, there are sightseeing tours by sea and air. Golfers favor the island´s unusual 18 hole golf course. The city centrum of the island´s has a number of
Golf The island´s 18-hole golf course is located in the crater of an extinct volcano and is one of the most beautiful and extraordinary golf course in the world.
restaurants and cafes, hotels, guesthouses, a campsite and a swimming pool. The only aquarium in Iceland, Sæheimar, is located in Vestmannaeyjar, Sagnheimar the local folk museum is also worth a visit. Whatever you do don´t miss the brand new volcanic museum ELDHEIMAR – Pompei of the North.
The main island Heimaey is at a distance of 8 km from the south coast of Iceland. Visitors can get there by taking a 20 minutes flight with Eagle Air from Reykjavík airport ore with the ferry Herjólfur which sails between Land eyjahöfn (about 2 hour drive from Reykjavík) The ferry trip takes about 35 minutes.
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Velkomin til Vestmannaeyja More info: (+354) 488-2700 | eldheimar@vestmannaeyjar.is | www.eldheimar.is Iceland Magazine / issue #02 2015
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Iceland Magazine Explains
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
ask@icelandmag.com
Iceland Mag explains Hot hot hot Geysir geothermal area is a key destination of the Golden Circle tour. The word “geyser” in English derives from the Icelandic word Geysir.
The Best Way To See The Sights?
A: The Icelandic phrase “þetta reddast” is so frequently used, it has been called the country’s motto. “Þetta reddast” can be translated as “it will all work out okay.” Life could often be difficult in this barren, harsh country, and over time Icelanders have developed a mentality which can sometimes seem a bit carefree. When faced with diffi culties, Icelanders always maintain a belief that things will work out in the end; no matter how big the problem, a solution will always present itself. So, are you stuck in the middle of nowhere? Did you lose your passport? Þetta reddast!
Question: I’m planning on visiting Iceland with my family this summer and I’m wondering, what is the best way to see the sights? Is going on organized day tours a good option, or is it better to rent a car? We will be staying in Reykjavík for seven days. Answer: Many travellers prefer the freedom that comes with renting a private car. However, rental cars do not come cheap (the price for one week can range from 70,000 krónur for a 3-door mini to 100,000 for a 5-door hatchback in June, to 111,000 krónur to 160,000 for the same type of cars in July and August, plus petrol). Therefore, if you are not planning on doing more than 2-day trips, a guided tour might be the better (and cheaper) option. Numerous tour operators offer a surfeit of choices when it comes to interesting day tours from Reykjavík. The most popular summer tours are the Golden Circle tour, the Blue Lagoon tour, and the South Coast tour, and they will set you back around 8,500 to 12,800 krónur per person.
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The Ásatrú Association has legal au thority to con duct ceremon ies such as marriages, name-givings, and burials.
Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is
Q: What does the phrase “Þetta reddast” mean?
A GEOTHERMAL ENERGY EXHIBITION
WORTH A VISIT
Stop by the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power Plant and see how they harness the geothermal energy. Experienced guides are on-hand to provide informative presentations backed by multimedia shows about sustainable green energy as a global energy source and the geology of Iceland. Origin of the Geothermal energy – The production process – An illustrated guide to Hellisheiði – The earth core Exclusive collection of minerals and stones. An excellent hiking and outdoor destination - we provide information on hiking around the Hengill area. Enjoy our coffee shop and browse through a selection of educational material in the souvenires corner.
Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is
Open daily from 9:00 – 17:00. We are about 20 minutes drive from Reykjavík on Route 1 towards Hveragerði.
More information: www.orkusyn.is Tel + 354 412 5800 e-mail: orkusyn@orkusyn.is Gps 64°02”248’- 21°24”079´
Iceland Magazine explains
Q: Can one drive from Hólmavík to the swimming pool in Krossnes and back in one day? A: The road from Hólmavík to Krossnes is a narrow, gravel road that runs along the coastline. With steep mountain hills on one side and sharp cliff edges on the other, the road must be travelled with caution. The round trip can take up to 7 hours, depending on the state of the roads and weather conditions. Should you want to stop and enjoy the scenery along the way (which we think you’ll want to do) and enjoy a long, relaxing soak in the spectacular Krossneslaug swimming pool, we recommend you not rush it, but rather spend the night in Norðurfjörður (there you’ll find a well-equipped camping area and three small guest houses) or in Hótel Djúpavík. Please note that the road is quite often impassable during winter due to snow and severe weather.
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
ask@icelandmag.com
Beautiful view Enjoy a long, relaxing soak in the spectacular Krossneslaug swimming pool in the Strandir region in the Westfjords.
What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.
ask@icelandmag.com
All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:
• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is
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Iceland’s Premier Hotel Chain
Hospitality runs in the family
Icelandair Hotels is a renowned chain of quality hotels located around Iceland. The characteristic of each hotel is shaped by the surrounding nature, local vitality and cultural heritage, but what they have in common is equally important; warmth, style and great service. The Icelandair Hotels are like members of a tight-knit family where the personality and temperament of each individual shine through. Your own family will feel right at home in the Icelandair Hotels family.
For information and bookings: www.icelandairhotels.com or by telephone (+354) 444 4000.
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REYKJAVÍK MARINA
in KEFLAVÍK
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Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Travelling
Prepare the ground A little planning ahead can help maximise your safety while travelling in Iceland and limit the chances of ever finding yourself in a tight corner.
How To Stay Safe Make your trip to Iceland a safe one with a little pre-planning.
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here are around one hundred search and rescue teams operating all over Iceland. The organisations are all nonprofit and volunteer-based and rely solely on public funding and dona tions. The teams specialise in search and rescue services on land and at sea and count thousands of specialised volunteers who, thankfully, are always on hand when an emergency arises. Frequent winter storms, increasing numbers of foreign guests visiting Iceland and locals’ ever-growing interest in out door activities have added much strain to Iceland’s search and rescue teams this winter—in fact, many units are at their breaking point. A little planning ahead can help maxi mise your safety while travelling in Ice land and limit the chances of ever finding yourself in a tight corner. Here are a few reminders:
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Travelling during summer 1 If you plan to hike in remote areas, leave a detailed travel plan on the website safetravel.is. 2 Have a SPOT satellite device or a
GPS device when travelling in the countryside or the central highlands. These small, life-saving devices have aided rescue teams in swiftly locating a person in distress. 3 Pack the appropriate equipment for
your trip. The best philosophy when trav elling in Iceland is hope for the best, but dress for the worst. Use waterproof bags for your clothes and gear and always try out new equipment before you head off. 4 Most mountain roads are closed for summer traffic until early July because of bad conditions. The narrow gravel roads
A little planning ahead can help maxi mise your safety while travelling in Iceland and limit the chances of ever finding yourself in a tight corne
The emergency number in Iceland is 112.
turn into muddy quagmires when thawing out after a hard winter. The terrain is difficult to travel across and only meant for vehicles equipped with four-wheel drive. 5 Narrow bends, blind rises, loose gravel, deep potholes, and dodgy road margins can pose a risk when driving on gravel roads. It’s crucial to keep well to the right when navigating these roads. 6 Use common sense when travelling in Iceland: Take note of information screens and warning signs and stay safe. 7 Lastly, be informed! Seek infor mation on the area before you set off. Keep up-to-date on road conditions by visiting the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration’s website and follow the weather forecast diligently.
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All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com
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