Iceland Magazine Issue #4 2014 by Iceland Magazine

Al fresco in Reykjavík P 10 Seal Watching P 12 Refugees of Love P 32 vol.

04 2014

T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e

Yo ur

co py

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The wonder world of the Landmannalaugar region in the central highlands.

Farmer’s Markets P 42 Best of East Iceland P 48 The Hitchhiker’s Guide to Iceland P 68

Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e

Contents from the editor

Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com

Know Your Right here has been a big debate in Iceland this spring about the right of landowners to charge an entrance fee to visit popular tourist attractions. Landowners at the Geysir geothermal area began in March to charge visitors, despite much criticism from the general public and companies operating within the tourism sector. A month later the District Court of South Iceland stopped the practice. As the debate simmers on, it’s good to take a look at some important facts and figures. Fact number one is that according to Icelandic law, the right to travel on foot is in most instances superior to the right of the owner of the land. This right is based on centuries-old traditions “The right stretching all the way back to a law book called Járnsíða to travel on (Ironside) from the 13th foot is in most century. New laws and codes on the environment instances are in part based on this old superior to law book. The only exceptions to the right of the this general right to travel owner of the involve the protection of nature; landowners can close land.” down areas if people on foot are having a visible impact on the environment, and traffic over farming land is usually off limits if there is a chance it will cause any damage. And here we arrive at the important figures: The size of Iceland is 103.000 square kilometers (40.000 square miles), of which farming land only occupies approximately 1.400 square kilometers (540 m2), or less than 2 percent of the whole country. In comparison, glaciers cover 11.900 square kilometers (4.600 m2) or almost 10 percent of Iceland. So, boiled down, this means that if you respect the environment and leave no trace behind, you can go on foot almost anywhere you like in Iceland. That’s a precious right. Please take good care of it.

26 Contents 6-24 Lookout 6 Fish Bone “Lego” 8 Where to watch the World Cup + Iceland’s best beer 10 Al fresco in Reykjavík 12 Seal watching 14-16 Highlights Ahead 18 Pompey North Museum 20-21 Composer Einar Tönsberg 22 Marathon Nightlife in Reykjavík 24 How to travel responsible 26 Heart of the Highlands Landmannalaugar region is a spectacular oasis with a natural geothermal bathing pool flanked by steep black and green lava fields and irresistible walking trails on the colorful mountains. 32 Refugees of Love They all met and fell in love with an Icelander and moved to this isolated island in the North Atlantic to be with their significant other. 42 From the farm to your plate Farmer-to-consumer marketing is on the rise in Iceland. 48- 67 Special Supplement: Eastern Highlights From glaciers and volcanoes, vast highland expanses and deserts completely untouched by humans to narrow fjords flanked by mountains and high sea cliffs crowded with birds, East Iceland is a world on its own. 66 Thumbs up! If you are looking for adventure of your lifetime, want to see idyllic spots and places in Iceland and experience the local culture in all its affluence, then hitchhiking is the best way of travelling!

IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Benedikt Freyr Jónsson benni@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Matt Eliason, Björn Árnason, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan burkni On the Cover: Hiking in Grænagil or Green Orge in the region of Landmannalaugar. See feature on page 25. Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

72 Iceland Magazine Explains How many horses are in Iceland and other burning issues. Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.

76 Keflavík International Airport Avoid delays by using online check-in. 78 The Ever Present Forces of Nature Árni Óli Ólafsson talks about his hometown Vestmannaeyjabær on Heimaey island, the only habited island of the Westman Island archipelago.

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Lookout Design

Skefnusköpun is available in Spark Design on Klapparstígur 33, Farmers Market on Hólmaslóð 2, The National Museum, Epal in Keflavík International Airport as well as on Róshildur‘s website hugdetta.is. The kit costs around 6.900 krónur (44 euros).

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Fish bones “Lego” Róshildur Jónsdóttir, a product designer, is the mastermind behind Skepnusköpun, a model kit made from fish bones which has gained much attention for its originality and sustainability.

In my final thesis I discussed how farm animals were made use of, everything and anything that was considered edible from the sheep or cattle was utilized. Other parts, such as bones and sheepskin were used as building material or to make clothes. “When I graduated from the Academy of Arts in 2006 much of the animal went to waste, including the horns and bones. I began to experiment with bones from different animals and found the shape and form of fish bones to be especially beautiful. At one point I boiled some fish bones, painted them and glued together and that’s when I got the idea,” Róshildur explains. She adds it was never her intention to design and manufacture a complete product – originally the project was to point out and criticise growing consumerism and the excess waste that comes with it. It was no easy task to obtain the countless permits needed before production could begin. The bone cleaning process also proved to be problematic: It was too time-consuming and much too expensive. So Róshildur began to experiment to try and come up with more efficient ways of cleaning the bones.

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Róshildur Jónsdóttir, a product designer, is the mastermind behind Skepnusköpun.

“There are dozens of bones in a fish’s head and they are very difficult to sterilize. I was awarded a grant and teamed up with the University of Akureyri and a microbiologist to try and come up with a better way to sterilize the bones. We experimented for years and were often close to throwing in the towel but always kept on going. Eventually we figured out a new and ecological method to clean the bones,” she explains. Each kit consists of bones from haddock, cod and one jawbone of wolf fish. Róshildur maintains that although the bones may seem delicate, they are in fact very strong and do not break easily. And because of their unique shape, they are also great fun to assemble. “I call Skepnusköpun the “Icelandic Lego”. Some of most memorable and beautiful moments my family and I have shared have been when we were making sculptures from the fish bones. Children have a very active imagination and some of the sculptures my children have made are simply amazing,” she recalls. “There are few toys on the market today that capture the imagination of a child or challenge them to be creative. My son, for instance, is extremely proud of his fish bone creations and his most cherished toy is a space-shuttle he made himself. But the sculptures also make for lovely ornaments.” SM

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Lookout SPORTS BARS

Where To Watch the World Cup The next best thing from being at the World Cup in Brazil is watching the games in a great atmosphere of passionate football fans. Here are some of the best spots in the capital area to catch the World Cup on a big screen and maybe have a cold beer or two.

English Pub Watch the biggest games on the biggest screens! English Pub, located at Austurstræi 12, tailors directly to the die-hard sports fan that desires a great atmosphere, a cold beer, and some good food. Get to English Pub from 16.0019.00 to enjoy their happy hour deal which includes five beers for 2.800 kr. Also included on the menu are your typical bar foods such as nachos, pizza, and quesadillas.

Kex Hostel Housed in an old biscuit factory in downtown Reykjavik, Kex offers a great place to lounge out and catch soccer game, while enjoying a frosty pint of a local lager or a specialty ale. Located at 28 Skúlagata, Kex provides a more relaxed setting to catch one of world cup match-ups. If beer is not your thing, enjoy one of their deluxe coffee drinks or tasty pastries. Kex is not quite a fancy bistro, but definitely a lot swan kier than your typical pub.

Lebowski Bar Support your favorite World Cup team, while enjoying “the dude’s”

favorite drink, a White Russian, at the iconic Lebowski Bar. Located at 20 Laugavegur, Lebowski bar offers a great place to watch a game, while also enjoying a giant burger, or a delicious shake. Additionally, the interior decorat ing makes Lebowski bar a must-visit, to re-live the famous movie, while also enjoying the world’s favorite sporting event.

Ölver Ölver is a true sports bar that is sure to provide a great atmos phere for all the World Cup matches. Located at 74 Álfheim um in Reykjavík, Ölver has a full service bar with all your favorite drinks on tap, in addition to a popular food menu that provides the perfect meal for game time. Most importantly, there isn´t a bad seat in the house as Ölver has 3 large projection screens as well as a number of flat-screen televisions that are positioned at all corners of the bar.

Spot As a die-hard Manchester United and Liverpool bar, Spot is known for its game day atmosphere during the English Premier

LEBOWSKI BAR Support your favorite World Cup team, while enjoying “the dude’s” favorite drink. Photo/Hjalti Harðarson

League season. Now fans have the chance to experience that same love of football during June and July for the World Cup. Located just outside Reykjavik at 6 Bæjarlind, Kópavogi, Spot is luxuriously decorated and prov ides a classy experience to watch the action in Brazil. Delicious pizzas and amazing deserts, all prepared by Spot’s top class chefs, help combine a brilliant dining experience with a great gaming experience.

Bíó Paradís Cinema It’s not a bar, but Bíó Paradís Cinema will be showing every

single world cup match on its state-of-the-art cinema screens with top quality digital sound. Stationed right in the heart of Reykajavik at 54 Hverfisgötu, Bíó Paradís provides a great place to watch the matches from June 12 - July 13. The cinema will also be offering a wide variety of beer and wine selections as well as soda, popcorn, candy and coffee. In addition, a special happy hour will be available from 17.00-19.30 everyday, in which beer and wine is two for the price of one. So grab a friend and head down to the Bíó Paradís Cinema for all your world cup needs.

Strong & Brave Garún Icelandic Stout was crowned the 2014 winner at Hólar village’s annual craft beer festival in June.

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fter sampling a number of different craft beers from all over Iceland, Garún from Borg brugghús brewery, took home the victory, followed closely by runner-up “Ship-o-hoj” from Ölvisholt brewery, and third place, Viking Einstök brewery for “Arctic-Berry- Ale.” Garún is named for the strong and brave heroine of one of Iceland’s most popular folktales “The deacon of Dark River (Myrká).” A fitting name indeed as it is not for the faint hearted; 11.5% alcohol by volume with a dark aura of intense richness and haunting aroma with notes of chocolate, licorice and coffee.

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Lookout AL FRESCO

5 best cafés for a sunny summer day Get ready for alfresco season with Iceland Magazine’s guide to the cafés with the best verandas, rooftops and outdoor areas in Reykjavík. well over a decade and continues to be so. The restaurant’s outdoor area is not only well-sheltered from wind but also sunny all day—therefore it’s jam-packed during warm summer days. Crowd: Family-oriented during the daytime. Attracts a more stylish crowd during evenings and weekends.

5 Café Flóra Café Flóra is located in Grasa garðurinn, Reykjavík’s botanical garden, in Laugardalur valley, only a thirty-minute walk from the city centre. The café’s beautiful surroundings make it a wonderful place to spend a warm summer day. Café Flóra’s menu consists of Scandinavian-inspired dishes and classic Danish open-faced sandwiches.

Capacity crowd. Café París and its next door neighbours are usually crowded on sunny days.

1 Kex The Kex is what you could call the epitome of quirky hipsterism. Situated in the hostel that used to be a cookie factory (Kex is the Icelandic word for cookie), the bar offers tasty craft beers on draft and bistro-style food in case you get peckish. The Kex has a large outdoor patio with a fantastic view of the bay and a little park out back, which is well worth a visit whenever one wants to enjoy a little sun. Crowd: Members of the city council, hostel guests, and hipsters.

2 Loft Loft is situated in the Loft Hostel in Bankastræti street and is the latest addition to Reykjavík’s hostel flora. The bar is nice and

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

spacious with ample seating, and the roof terrace has an absolutely amazing view over the city centre. Crowd: Pretty much anyone and everyone.

on, Vegamótstígur. During the day, it’s a popular bistro with a large menu, but in the evenings it transforms into a popular bar. It has been a favourite of locals for

Crowd: Old and young come together at the café to enjoy the idyllic setting.

3 Kaffi París Kaffi París is located in the heart of the city and a popular spot for people-watching and basking in the sun. On sunny days, Kaffi Paris and the other cafés around Austurvöllur square are bustling with life. The café offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner for those in need of a little fill-me-up. Crowd: Popular with tourists and Icelanders alike.

4 Vegamót Vegamót means “crossroads,” and is named after the little street it’s

Bill Clinton at Bæjarins bestu pylsur in 2004. Photo/GVA

The town’s best hot dogs

æjarins bestu pylsur Literally means “the town’s best hot dogs,” and it’s no exaggeration. This small downtown Reykjavík hot dog stand is a giant on the Icelandic fast food scene. The menu could not be simpler: a hot dog on a bun. The only existential question is choosing between different garnishes. President Bill Clinton is still fondly remembered for his choice on a visit to Reykjavík: one with mustard only. Expect a long line. It’s worth the wait. On the corner of Pósthússtræti and Tryggvagata, Reykjavík.

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facebook.com/enneinn ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS ENN 69139 05/14

Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland

The points indicate where you’ll find N1 service stations around Iceland

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N1 is a network of service stations, located all around Iceland. There you can find anything you might need for the road, both fuel, food and entertainment. Our mission is to offer excellent services to anyone on the road. At selected N1 service stations, travelers enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi – perfect to share those travel memories in real time. At the largest service stations, you can either tank up yourself or rely on our swift service, shop for essentials, entertainment and snacks or just take a well-deserved break over a cup of coffee. Tank up your car at N1 and fuel your body and soul at the same time.

Let´s go!

Is This a Black Eye? Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Some of Iceland’s best seal watching locations are at the Vatnsnes peninsula in north Iceland. Closely monitored by the nearby Icelandic Seal Center in the town of Hvammstangi together with local landowners, each area offers visitors a different perspective of the seals. It is not unusual to see large numbers of them resting on the rocks and beaches, or playing close to the coast. The distance from Reykjavík to the town of Hvammstangi is 194 km (120 mi) by car. The town is only a few minutes drive from Ring road. And no, this young model is not sporting a shiner. But a good night’s sleep might probably help. JK

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highlights ahead

Sail to Vigur island If you’re visiting the Westfjords, a half-day trip to the Vigur island is something you shouldn’t miss. Daily ferry trips from the town of Ísafjörður at 2pm. The island is privately owned and the same family has lived there since 1884. It’s is only 2km long, approximately 400m wide at its widest and is home to about 80 thousand of puffins over the course of the summer. www.sjoferdir.is

From bankers to wankers This one man show in English “How to Become Icelandic in 60 Minutes” is a tour-de-force theatrical comedy focusing on the Icelandic human condition: the attitudes, struggles and everyday life of Icelanders. From Vikings to Björk and from bankers to wankers. It’s been running since 2012 and is actually quite good. Shown at Harpa music and confernnce hall, 101 Reykjavík. Dates and tickets at www.harpa.is

SjómaThe Viking settlers The Settlement Centre is a great place to visit when in the town of Borgarnes. The museum gives a good overview of the Viking settlement in Borgarnes and on Egilssaga, the tale of infamous Viking and poet Egill Skallagrímsson. The centre also includes a wonderful, little gift shop and a lovely restaurant. www.landnam.is

The people of Heimaey, the Westman Islands, come together during the first weekend of July each year to celebrate the end of the volcanic eruption which lasted nearly six months in 1973. Hundreds of homes were buried under massive amounts of lava and ash and all of the island’s population had to be evacuated. Everyone, young and old, partakes in the festivities which reach their hights on the Saturday with concerts taking place in the bait-sheds in Skvísusund, aka „Chick Lane“. The ferry Herjólfur sails to the island three to five times a day.

Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Búrfell Hydropower Station is in South Iceland.

Rugged nature and renewable energy

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

The annual Lobster Festival in Höfn in Hornafjörður takes place on the 27th-29th of June. Although the festivals name suggests otherwise, it revolves around a succulent shellfish named langoustine, which is closely related to the lobster. Eat, drink and be festive!

End of eruption celebrations

See more about what’s on in Iceland at icelandmag.com

he National Power Company of Iceland, Landsvirkjun, has opened its doors to visitors. With visitor centers at three different power stations across the country, you are now able to gain insight into renewable energy production and its use. Iceland’s holds a unique position when it comes to natural resources. Unlike many other countries across the globe, Icelanders (currently) live with an abun dance of fresh water and geothermal power. It does not then come as much of a surprise that these natural resources are taken advantage of to create usable energy. Interestingly enough, the total installed capacity of geothermal energy in Iceland is 575 mega watts. Three of Landsvirkjun’s plants are now open to the public. The Búrfell Hydropower Station was

Langoustines galore!

Iceland’s first power station and has been on-line since 1972. Þjórsá River is Iceland’s longest river. It is harnessed at Búrfell with a tailrace tunnel from the Bjarnarlón Reservoir to the powerhouse located in the Þjórsárdalur valley. Built by the Icelandic government, Kröflustöð Power Station (or Krafla Power Station) was bought by Landsvirkjun nearly 30 years ago. Located in North Iceland, southeast of Húsavík, the station is operated by high- and low-pressure steam from 18 boreholes, driving two 30 MW turbines Fljótsdalur Power Station, or Kárahnjúkarvirkjun is Iceland’s largest power station, producing a quarter of all electricity generated in the country. The station came on-line in 2007, four years after its construction started. See more at landsvirkjun.is

Iceland’s best Riders and horses perform at the Landsmót. Photo/Valli

The National Icelandic Horse Competition The National Icelandic Horse Competition known to Icelanders as the “Landsmót” is the largest outdoor sporting event in Iceland showcasing Iceland’s best horses and riders. The first Landsmót was held at the Þingvellir National Park in 1950, and has since then grown into the full blown bi-annual country festival that it is today. The festival is held at rotating locations around Iceland. This year it rides in to town at Hella in South Iceland. When Landsmót was in Hella in 2008, attendance reached a record high of 14.000 people. From June 30 to July 6. See landsmot.is

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highlights ahead

The Reykjavík pond. The building in the far left is the City Hall.

New Sculpture Park opened Dedicated to the work of six pioneering female sculptors in Iceland.

eykjavík City Council have dedicated part of Hljómskálagarður Park to the work of six female sculptors. The sculpture park was formally opened on International Women‘s Day, June 19th and is located in the beautiful surroundings of Hljómskálagarður Park. The new sculpture park displays the work of Gunnfríður Jónsdóttir (1889 - 1968), Nína Sæmundson (1892 - 1962), Tove Ólafsson (1909 - 1992), Þorbjörg Pálsdóttir (1919 - 2009), Ólöf Pálsdóttir (1920) and Gerður Helgadóttir (1928 - 1975) who are considered to be pioneers as they were among the first female sculptors in Iceland.

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Lookout ELDHEIMAR MUSEUM

Gerður Sigurðardóttir by the ruins of her old home which once stood at Gerðisbraut 10. The house is now exhibition’s main attraction.

Pompeii of the North a huge success It was in May last year the house at Gerðisbraut 10 on Heimaey island emerged from the ash and pumice. After having been submerged under ash for over forty years, it is now the center piece of the newly opened Eldheimar museum, bearing silent witness to the disaster that struck the town in 1973 .

Eldheimar Ten houses were excavated after being buried under volcanic ash for 40 years.

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

his museum has been years in the making. In 2005 the Vest mannaeyjar town council agreed to take part in a project that involved excavating ten houses that had been buried under lava since 1973 and build a visitors’ centre where people could view the houses and learn more about this extraordinary event. The project was named Pompeii of the North and the centre’s grand opening took place last month. Kristín Jóhannsdóttir, director of marketing and culture in Vestmannaeyjar town, tells that the number of visitors succeeded all expectations. This week the Surtsey Visitor Centre will be moved from its current location near the town’s harbour, and become part of the Pompeii of the North exhibition. Asked whether further additions are to be expected, Kristín explains that the exhibition is fully formed however, more personal accounts will be added with time. “When the centre opened in May it was fully formed and ready, so the only additions to be made are more personal accounts to add to our data base.” The house at Gerðisbraut 10 belonged to Gerður Sigurðardóttir and her late husband Guðni Ólafsson, who had built it in 1971. Gerður was allowed inside her old home shortly after the house was excavated. “One becomes emotional seeing one´s home abandoned after all this time. I missed not having my late husband with me. But I’m happy that I allowed the excavation because I was right all this time; my house is still standing,” she said in an interview with Fréttablaðið newspaper. She also remembers the night of the eruption very vividly. “When I pulled back the curtains, I could see this extremely large fire pillar. I called my husband and we saw a long, gaping fissure only four hundred metres away from us. It was as though the earth had been zipped open.” SM

See more at www.eldheimar.is

In our souvenir shop you will find Icelandic design inspired by the Northern Lights Designs by: Dimmblá Stál í stál - Jens Volcap Olason paintings Gingó hönnun Svandís Kandís and more Free coffee & tea at our store

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Lookout The interview

Icelandic music & an Irish puffling Icelandic musician Einar Tönsberg, of the bands Feldberg and Eberg, composes the music for Puffin Rock, a new, Irish animated TV series broadcast on Nick Jr. UK and RTÉ. Einar was the only member of the production team who had ever seen a real puffin. Text by Sara McMahon Photo by Björn Árnason

celandic musician Einar Tönsberg composes the music for a new animated television series entitled Puffin Rock. The series features narration by Irish actor Chris O’Dowd and will be broadcast on Nick Jr. UK and RTÉ (the Irish National Broadcasting Service). Puffin Rock follows the adventures of a family of puffins living on a small island off the coast of Ireland. The story revolves around Oona, a young puffin who spends her days exploring the island with her little brother Baba. The show is co-produced by Oscar nominated Irish animation studio, Cartoon Saloon, Penguin publishing and Northern Irish children’s media company Dog Ears. The TV series will feature 39 seven-minute episodes and Penguin will pro duce books and other products to accompany it. Einar is a popular musician in Iceland who in 2010, was awarded the Icelandic Music Awards for Best Song for the song Dreamin’ with his band Feldberg. He also performs solo under the alias Eberg. The musician has composed soundtracks for Ic elandic television shows such as “Hæ Gosi” and “Pressa” but this is his first time composing music for a children’s TV series. First thing first: How did this come about? “My record label Small Town America is connected to the project and they asked me to adapt one of my band’s songs for the show’s trailer. Later, when the project had been fully funded, they contacted me again and asked me to compose the music for the series. I’ve now committed to the project for the next year. It has been very demanding work but great fun.” How was this different to composing your own music? “Not very different. The process is the same although the target audience is not. My four-year-old daughter was great help. She critiqued the songs and I dumped the ones she didn’t like. The first challenge was finding a themesong and making different versions of it.”

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

The series follows the adventures of a young puffin – did the fact that you are from Iceland, home to the world’s largest puffin population, help in any way? “I’m not sure. Maybe. The funny thing is, I was the only member of the production team who had laid eyes on a puffin. My parents-in-law live in the Westman Islands, where over two million puffins have their burrows. When I told my colleagues that my daughter had captured a lost puffling with the help of her grandparents, fed it and then brought it back to sea, no-one believed me. But it’s the honest truth.”

“Northern Ireland is a wonderful place. It all seems so familiar to an Icelander, both the landscape and the atmosphere.”

Recording took place in the BBC studio in Belfast with a Northern-Irish orchestra. How did that go? “It went really well. I worked closely with orchestrator Graeme Stewart who did a great job with his arrange ments. And the BBC facilities and the Ulster Orchestra were absolutely fantastic!” Did you spend much time in Northern Ireland while working on the project? “I was there for a week or so. Northern Ireland is a wond erful place. It all seems so familiar to an Icelander, both the landscape and the atmosphere. The people are very similar to us, which might not come as a surprise because we have much of their DNA. I spent most of my time in Derry, which is a town about the size of Reykjavík, so I felt very much at home there.” Are you optimistic about the project? Do you think it will turn out to be the next big thing on children’s TV? “I’m sure of it. The story itself is great and my daughter loves it, especially after they added colour and motion to the drawings and characters.”

Einar at his studio “My parents-in-law live in the Westman Islands, where over two million puffins have their burrows.”

Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

Lookout nightlife

Reykjavík’s nightlife When going out in Iceland’s capital, slow and steady wins the race, says Matt Eliason, who has just moved to Iceland from Chicago.

hicago is known for its nightlife and party atmosphere, with a variety of bars and nightclubs spread throughout the city. However, after my first couple of nights out in downtown Reykjavík, I can honestly say that Icelanders also know how to throw a party. Chicago: Bottoms up before 2 AM Most nights start out with a pre-party get-toget her of a small group of friends, known as pregaming. In addition to normal conversation, drinking activities such as beer pong, card gam es, and other excuses for the mass consumption of alcohol are common before ever stepping foot into a bar. Beer is much cheaper in Chicago than it is in Reykjavík, which is why a culture of binge drinking is more able to flourish in Chicago. I’m not saying that Icelanders don’t consume their fair share of alcohol; however, due to the astronomical prices of alcohol in the city of Reykjavík, Icelanders tend to appreciate and enjoy their beers, rather than chugging them down without much thought (like your typical American frat boy). In Chicago, after finishing up the beer and liquor at the pre-game party, the group heads out to one of the many bars that the town has to offer. The process of transferring to the bars usually occurs around the 10:30 pm—11:30 pm timeframe, significantly earlier than in the night life culture of Iceland. And in Chicago, after having your fun partying at the bar, grinding to the music, and getting rejected by girls (maybe this is just a personal problem), you have to face the fact that the drinking establishments will start closing down around 2 am. Now, I know the Icelanders reading this are laughing to themselves, because the bars here in Reykjavík don’t start hitting their stride until somewhere around 2 am. Reykjavík: The amazing ability to stay out all night There are two major characteristics of Reykjavík nightlife that I have noticed thus far in my limit ed time experiencing the city. First, the price of alcohol shapes the decisions you make about going out. The cheapest beer in

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

the bar sells for around 1.000 ISK (approx. $8.25), and the cheapest 24-pack of beer availa ble for purchase at the liquor store is priced at about 4.000 ISK (approx. $33). Therefore, the drinking games that are not socially responsible in Chicago, are also not economically responsi ble here in Reykjavík.

“Now, I know the Icelanders reading this are laughing to themselves, because the bars here in Reykjavik don’t start hitting their stride until around 2 am.”

More depressing is the fact that due to the geo graphical location of Iceland, the sunlight starts creeping in through the windows before 4 am, while the bars are still in service. Adapting to the marathon lifestyle In Chicago, if you are out drinking when the sun rises, you are perceived to be an alcoholic. In Reykjavík, if you are NOT out when the sun rises you are perceived to be heading home early. This distinction between the two cities has necessitated the biggest mental adjustment in my social behavior! Therefore, if I were to recap my impressions of the two cities in a brief summary, I would say the atmosphere around Reykjavík nightlife can be compared to that of a marathon due to the

Due to the geographical location of Iceland, the sunlight starts creeping in through the windows before 4 AM, while the bars are still in service. Photo/Valli

The second characteristic of Reykjavík night life that has actually had an effect on my physical well-being is this culture’s amazing ability to stay out all night! Please, can I just go to sleep! Maybe it has to do with the fact that the sun never entirely sets in the summertime, or that DJ Muscle Boy’s hit song is blasting out of the speakers…LOUDER!

long hours you are expected to stay out. You must pace yourself if you plan on having any energy left at the end of the night. Conversely, Chicago nightlife is more akin to a sprint, with heavier drinking in a much shorter time period. As a sprinter my whole life, I must now adapt to the marathon lifestyle here in Reykjavík’s night scene.

The last time I arrived downtown at around 1 am, the main crowd was still filing into the bars, as the general populus had not yet arrived in the downtown area. I was busy yawning and rubb ing my eyes, as the rest of the bar was just arriving to dance their way through the night.

In his regular column for Iceland Magazine, Matt chronicles his first impressions of the country, its people and traditions. See more of Matt’s columns at icelandmag.com

Enjoy a

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Lookout TRAVEL IN ICELAND

10 DROPS OF RESPONSIBLE TOURISM IN ICELAND There’s an Icelandic saying, “tíu dropar,” which means “ten drops,” that is used when you just want to have a little bit of something (usually coffee!) Here we present ten little bits of advice, that require only minor effort to make you a responsible traveler in Iceland and help you preserve the environment for future generations. Text by Celia Haro Ruiz

Your trip starts before you take any flight. When booking your accommodations, try to find out if the company is doing something towards environment. Choose a hotel, hostel, guest house, or camping ground, that has a written statement covering their environmental impact, employment, and cultural policy.

You picked Iceland for a reason, right? Find out as much as possible about our culture, literature, natural resources, and history. Did you know that we are a very young country?

We got our independence in 1944. Do you know why and how? Iceland is very lucky when it comes to electricity, since most homes use renew able (geothermal) energy. However, there’s no need to waste if it’s not necessary; when you leave your hotel room, turn off the lights, television, and radio to save electricity. In the summer, close the blinds and/or curtains to reduce heat buildup in the room.

Explore the transporta tion options. If possible, walk, rent a bike, use public transportation, or carpool (www.samferda.net) as a way to save petrol and money, and reduce carbon emissions. Support the local economy by buying Icelandic pro ducts and services. Supporting locally owned businesses, community tour operators, and artisans means that you’ll have a one-of-a-kind experience, and your money will go directly to the community. Before purchasing goods, ask about their origin. Avoid buying products made from threatened natural resources and report poaching and other illegal activities to the local authorities. Reduce, Reuse, & Recycle. Try to avoid unnecessary packaging by buying in

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

The marked path. When travelling in Iceland it’s important to follow the marked paths to prevent the area from being marred. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

bigger containers or without plastic bags. While traveling, avoid buying disposable items, such as Styrofoam food containers, in favour of reusable alternatives. Think of new uses for products before you throw them away. Recycling when possible is a must here, as Iceland is a small country well known for its amazing natural resources. You don’t want to see landfills near the biggest glacier of Europe, do you? 7

Avoid buying bottled water. In Iceland, the cold water is pota ble, pure, fresh, and it runs right from the nearest tap. It is a waste of money and plastic to buy bottles. Travelers can help by recycl ing and reusing existing water bottles, and by refusing to purchase or accept new bottles. Instead you can refill a dishwasher-safe, reusable bottle with filtered water or water from the tap. However, it’s also important to remember to use water sparingly, as only 1% of all the water in the world is potable—the rest is polluted, frozen, or salty. When hiking, remember to respect the area; follow marked paths. Never feed wild animals—by feeding them, you make them dependent. Don’t pick

up and take home natural resources such as shells, plants, animal bones, or rocks. It’s against the law in Iceland. Let’s leave picnic and camping areas cleaner than we found them for the next visitors to use. 9

Try to get in touch with locals by asking for tips on good restaurants, interesting streets, events, festivals, and activities going on. It’s very useful and Icelanders really appreciate it when you learn a few phrases in Icelandic: góðan dag (good morning), takk fyrir (thank you very much), or bless bless (bye).

Many businesses are grate ful when their customers rate them, because this is how they gain popularity. If you have liked a restaurant, enjoyed a tour, or had a great talk with a guide, make sure that you submit a review on the Internet or in the “opinion cards.” They really appreciate it and it takes you only five minutes. On the other hand, if you think that there are points that could be improved, go ahead! They all want to do better and give the best service!

WHALE WATCHING AND OTHER WILDLIFE ADVENTURES FROM REYKJAVIK

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All aboard for adventure!

This is paradise. Bathing in the natural geothermal hot springs at Landamannalaugar next to the camping ground.

Heart of the Highlands

When the roads leading to the Landmannalaugar region in the central highlands opens late spring visitors flock to this spectacular oasis. Attracted by its natural geothermal bathing pool flanked by steep black lava fields and the irresistible walking trails on the colorful mountains of the area. Here we bring you 5 things to know about the Landmannalaugar region. Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

From Jökulgil canyon with its steep hills of colorful rhyolite in the Landmannalaugar region. Pictured is the amazing walking trail in Grænagil, or Green Gorge in English.

1. Multicoloured mountains The Landmannalaugar region is home to a number of unusual geological elements, like silica-rich igneous volcanic rock mountains and lava fields as far as the eye can see. Whether you’re an experienced hiker, or if you simply wish to enjoy natural beauty, a hike in the area is sure to bring a new experience to your life.

2. Geothermal hot springs The geothermal hot springs at Landmannalaugar (People’s Pool) are open to the public for bathing in the most beautiful natural setting imaginable. Changing rooms are offered for those who want to give the springs a try, as well as outdoor showers for the complete natural experience.

3. Camping Landmannalaugar offers a beautiful camping ground, which includes access to a “Mountain Mall Shop,” operated inside a green American school bus from the ‘70s. The Mall stocks groceries and other items useful for camping should you forget to pack some essentials. Landmannalaugar

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re an experienced hiker, or if you simply wish to enjoy natural beauty, a hike in the area is sure to bring a new experience to your life.

Iceland’s most famous hiking trail lies between Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk nature reserve.

4. The Ugly Puddle Formed in 1477 during an explosive volcanic eruption, Ljótipollur (Ugly Puddle) is a deep, still lake packed with brown trout that is quite popular with fishing enthusiasts. It might surprise you that a lake with such a strange, unappealing name would be as appealing to the eye as it really is. The red crater rim complements the colour of the water perfectly, making this Ugly Puddle well worth the visit.

The route is 55 km (34.5 mi) and takes you up and down gloriously hued, desolate volcano hills, over bursting glacial rivers and clear blue water.

5. Hiking route Laugavegurinn Iceland’s most famous hiking trail lies between Landmannalaugar and the Þórsmörk nature reserve. The route is 55 km (34.5 mi) and takes you up and down gloriously hued, desolate volcano hills, over bursting glacial rivers and clear blue water streams, alongside glaciers and rugged mountains, through lava fields and green valleys. It’s essentially the whole spectrum of Iceland’s interior landscape compressed in one trip. The trek is usually done in three to five days but the trail is also the scene of Iceland’s most popular endurance race with the fastest runners completing the whole route into less than five hours. The 2014 race is on July 12th . See more information on marathon.is.

For more information on Landmannalaugar see the excellent website landmannalaugar.is

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Refugees of love

What do a DJ and former rockabilly star, an American freelance photographer, a Swedish globetrotter and a former Mr Africa have in common? They all met and fell in love with an Icelander and moved to this isolated island in the North Atlantic to be with their significant other. Iceland Magazine met up with four “love refugees” who shared their love-story and their view on their new home country.

A big fish in a little pond Englishman Smutty Smiff, a rockabilly bassist who played in the “Rockats”, and his wife Katrín Rósa Stefánsdóttir met in a pub in Camden Town in London. They now live in Reykjavík with their two young sons.

How was your first impression of Iceland? Smutty: “My first ever visit to Iceland was after Kate and myself had been cohabitating for a period of time. We were to attend a family wedding. I distinctly remember the view from the airplane window during our descent into Keflavik International Airport. Looking at the rock formations and the differ ent texture and hues, one would have thought we had landed on Mars. Vast lava fields stretched out into the horizon and steam funnels spewed up from the belly of Earth itself! After the wedding and family obligations Kate and I headed down-town to party. At first glance, especially after a few beers and wine, I wasn’t sure how and when

“This was a land that time forgot, sparsely populated and vast areas of uninhabitable frozen lava tundra, glaciers and not forgetting the very active volcanos!” 32

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we arrived at our first destination. It was called Bar 11. Upon entering I immediately notice the distinct influence of Americana. The walls, ceilings and just about every availa ble space was covered in pictures and posters of the classics: Elvis, James Dean and Rolling Stones. I was starting to feel at ease on discovering this little gem in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.” Do you think there is much cultural difference between the UK and Iceland? Katrín: “I do think there is a difference between the two countr ies, culturally the UK has so much tradition around the monarchy and a huge selection of people from all over the world. Iceland being so isolated and fairly new still has few immigrants compared to other nations. The similarities are mainly within the Celtic and Viking influ ences with Scotland and Ireland. How did you adapt? Smutty: “After the move to Ice land I had to get used to so many changes all at once! Like the fact that it´s very dark and gloomy most of the winter and completely the opposite in the summer. I had never experienced

twenty-four-hour daylight in my life. Let alone looking up in winter and seeing the Northern lights. This was a land that time forgot, sparsely populated and vast areas of uninhabitable frozen lava tundra, glaciers and not forgetting the very active volcanoes!” Are there any pros/cons being in a “multicultural” relationship? Katrín: “The pros are traveling with the family to Smutty´s home and seeing how the boys react to the different culture. I really want for them to be aware of culture outside of Iceland.” What language do you speak at home? Katrín: “I only speak Iceland to my boys and English to Smutty.” What’s the best thing about living in Iceland? Smutty: “I clearly remember my first fishing trips; Armed with maps and fly-fishing gear I set off to some small stream or river, sat on a sandy bank watching small brown trout rise so freely to emerge aquatic insects as I poured a hot cup of piping hot English tea! It was pure bliss and heaven to me.

“I had found a country I could live in, no problem. I felt a solid connection with this fisherman’s paradise. I had travelled far and wide, but in all my years exploring nature and fishing had I yet to find a place to reflect on the day, or ponder one´s future, without any sound or interruption of any kind. But here it was. This was indeed a place that I could spend the rest of my day´s in. “Icelandic culture is very different from us Brits, who can be overly apologetic and swamped in hundr eds of years of the monarchy, coupled with a segregated class labelled system. I found it refreshing to be away from the English snobbery. I have now been living here for five years. And in those five years I have managed to accomplish unmeasurable achieve ments compared to what I could have done back home. I have had a popular vintage store down-town, as well as two recorded bands. I have been featured on national television and magazine covers. Now I am currently a DJ on radio station X97.7 with two popular shows. Iceland has a lot to offer if you’re willing to work for it. I might be a big fish in a small pond, but right now I am enjoying being that Fish!”

Picture perfect. Smutty and Katrín Rósa are a colourful and handsome couple. The first met in a bar in Camden Town in London but have now settled in Iceland. Photo/Björn Árnason

Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

Surrounded by Creativity Linnea Ahle and Gunnar Þór Gunnarsson met six years ago in east Sweden, where Gunnar played soccer for the local team, IFK Norrköping. Their romance was a whirlwind one, and the pair had moved in together three weeks after they first met.

hen Gunnar moved back to Iceland to complete his studies, Linnea was to follow but got cold feet, and the couple eventually broke up. Eight months later, Linnea decided to take the plunge, leave her home country and start a new life with Gunnar Þór on this barren island in the North Atlantic. A couple of years later she says she is happy and settled in her new home. How did the two of you meet? Linnea: “We met six years ago in Norrköping where Gunnar played soccer. I was back in Sweden to update my US visa, I was only going to stay in town for three weeks and then move back to New York, where I was living at the time. A friend invited me to go to the local soccer team’s end-ofseason party, on a Wednesday in late November. Gunnar was there and offered me a shot of Ópal (an Icelandic liquorice snaps), and we ended up talking and dancing the whole night. We dated those three weeks while I was waiting for my visa and then I ended up moving in with Gunnar instead of moving back to New York.” Why did you chose to settle down in Iceland rather than Sweden? Linnea: “When Gunnar’s contract with IFK Norrköping ended, he wanted to move back to Iceland and continue his psychology studies at the National University. At the same time, the local Reykjavík club KR offered him a contract, and he saw this as a great opportunity to carry on playing while completing his studies. We had visited Iceland many times before during holidays,

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

and I was not a big fan of the country back then. I found it to be too windy, too cold and too grey – the fact that I first visited shortly after the economic crash in 2008 only made it that much more gloomy in my mind.

all because I didn’t want to move to Iceland. We still loved each other very much and ultimately we concluded that we couldn’t let the geography prevent us from being together. I then quit my job and moved to live with Gunnar in 101 Reykjavík (the postal code for central Reykjavík). Was there anything about Iceland or Icelanders that you found surprising? Linnea: “I was very surprised to see how easy-going Icelanders are; they never stress and they are hardly ever on time. Many seem to be very creative, and even after the economic crash they kept a very positive view on life and the future. When I tell people back home

And the worst? “The northern winds! I am still not a fan.” Gunnar, do you feel there is much cultural difference between Sweden and Iceland? “I don’t believe there is a lot of cultural difference between the countries. But sometimes I get the feeling that most Swedes look the same, I think it might be because they don’t like to stand out from the crowd, whereas in Iceland people like to be different from each other.” What about similarities? Gunnar: “I think the similarities are that we have the same back ground as Scandinavians. Our mor als and laws are the same.”

Photo/Björn Árnason

A whirlwind romance. Gunnar Þór Gunnarsson and Linnea Ahle met in Sweden six years ago. Here they are with their daughter Tora Lóa.

“I was very surprised to see how easy-going Icelanders are; they never stress and they are hardly ever on time.” Linnea

about Icelanders, I say they live their life with one motto: Hakuna matata, no worries. They seem to be very carefree and sometimes, as a Swede, I have a hard time coping with the fact that things don’t seem to have any specific order. Icelanders don’t know how to queue or how to recycle their trash—small things that we Swedes are very anal about.”

“Gunnar eventually moved back to Iceland in 2011, and the plan was that I would follow soon after. However, I got cold feet and never moved. We broke up some months later. There we were, separated for almost eight months and broken up,

What is the best thing about living in Iceland? Linnea: “It took me some time to find the Iceland that I now love. For me, the best thing about living in Iceland is the beautiful landscape, the coffee shops, and the fact that you are surrounded by creativity.”

What language do you speak at home? Linnea: “We speak Swedish at home.” Are there any pros/cons being in a “multi-national” relationship? Linnea: “We now have a daughter together, Tora Lóa, and because of her we have noticed some differ ences when it comes to namegiving and schooling. In Sweden we don’t name children after their grandparents, but it’s a tradition here in Iceland. This wasn’t a prob lem for us, but I can imagine it could be for some.”

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Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

Water Straight from the tap David Bombay met his wife Fjóla Björk Gunnlaugsdóttir in his native Tanzania, East Africa. David has been a professional bodybuilder since 2002 and has been awarded the prestigious title of Mr. Africa twice, once in 2002 and again in 2008. He is a national celebrity in his own country. David and his wife Fjóla are now residing in the town of Akureyri in North Iceland with their newborn daughter Andreana.

he two met while working for the same gymnasium. David held a management position at the facility. The pair shared a love for perfect healthy bodies, and indeed, they both possessed almost Greek-god-like physiques! David later confessed he was smitten by Fjóla’s Nordic height and physical shape, combined with her Icelandic beauty. The two married in Africa and then headed off to the north. David’s mother thought (as many think about Iceland), that it is a place covered in snow and ice, spitting fire out of volcanoes, where people live either underground or in igloos! Most foreigners confuse Greenland’s Arctic tundra and ice bergs with Iceland, when in fact, it could not be more opposite: Greenland being all ice and Iceland being all green!

Do you think there is much cultural difference between Tanzania and Iceland? What about similarities? Fjóla: “There are many differences. Iceland, for instance, is more technologically advanced than Tanzania. There is also a big difference in the way we dress. Tanzanian women wear colourful clothes while Icelandic women mostly stick to black. “I can’t think of any similarities. The two countries are wonderfully different.”

Did anything about Iceland/ Icelanders take you by surprise? David: “I was truly amazed to find

Are there any pros/cons being in a “multicultural“ relationship? Fjóla: “It’s fun and exciting being from different cultural backgrounds, and it means you can travel more. We’ll spend a whole month in Tanzania next December when Iceland is dark and gloomy. David and I are both very open to new ideas and experiences so this suits us perfectly. I highly recommend it.”

What language do you speak at home? Does your daughter speak both languages? Fjóla: “We speak English at home, but I’m learning Swahili and David is learning Icelandic. Our daughter is only three months old, so she doesn’t speak much.” David: “I really would like our daughter to grow up aware of her family roots and to be able to speak my native language, Swahili.”

Photo/Auðunn Nielsson

“I was truly amazed to find that in Iceland you can drink water straight from a tap, in the luxury of your own home.” 36

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Fun and exciting.Fjóla Björk Gunnlaugsdóttir og David Bombay met while working for the same gymnasium in Tanzania. They now live with their daughter, Andreana, in North Iceland.

that in Iceland you can drink water straight from a tap, in the luxury of your own home. Some people in Africa have to walk up to several hours just to get water. This is something you certainly take for granted in a land without air

pollution or toxic waste and land fills. It’s also amazing how hot water, rich in natural salts and minerals, can come straight from Mother Earth herself, completely undisturbed for millions of years.”

Akranes

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SMART GUIDE Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

The Surprising Icelandic Wild West Style Dögg Mósesdóttir and Daniel Schreiber, an American from New York State met when they both lived in Barcelona, Spain.

How did you meet? Daniel: “It was through a Colom bian named Alejandro. He invited me to come along to a birthday party she was throwing, and I found the fact that she was from Iceland very fascinating. I had almost moved to Iceland in 1999 to study geology and found the country somewhat exotic.” Dögg: “And I found him fascinat ing because he was from New York … but then I found out he wasn’t from the city but suburban New York State.”

Dögg: “We didn’t want to get married in a church and found a civil wedding a bit boring, so we decided to get married according to the old, heathen, Icelandic tra dition, Ásatrú.” Daniel: “Dögg is from Grundarfjörður, west Iceland, so that’s where we got married. The ceremony was outside, by a waterfall. It was all very mytho logical; it was cloudy, but the skies parted and a beam of sun fell on the waterfall during the ceremony.” Why did you decide to move to

that I have seen more of the limitations connected with Iceland. And I’d like to be closer to my family.”

Do you think there is much cultural difference between Icelanders and Americans? Dögg: “Not really. The only time I noticed a difference was when I took my in-laws to the swimming pool, and I realized they weren’t really used to being naked around other people.”

Daniel, was there anything about Iceland or Icelanders that you found surprising? Daniel: “I found it surprising how similar people are to me in personality compared to Spain. And the level of English here is very good. I also found the chaos in Icelanders quite surprising. It’s very Wild West style compared to Sweden or Denmark,

Which language do you speak at home? Daniel: “Mostly English. I tried to speak Icelandic, but Dögg said I was ruining Ylfa’s pronunciation, and I needed to teach her English. But I really want to learn Icelandic better, especially so that Ylfa won’t be better in Icelandic than I am at the age of three.”

Photo/Björn Árnason

he couple now lives in the west side of central Reykjavík with their two-yearold daughter, Ylfa, and a grumpy old cat named Guðjón. Dögg is a freelance film maker as well as the chairman of WIFT in Iceland (Women in Film and Television), and Daniel works as a freelance photographer and musician.

Heathen wedding. Dögg Mósesdóttir and Daniel Schreiber met when they were both living in Spain. They married a year later and threw a heathen party. Dögg is holding their daughter Ylfa.

When did you get married? Daniel: “In 2005. We had only been together for a year and threw a big heathen party in Iceland for family and friends.”

“We didn’t want to get married in a church and found a civil wedding a bit boring, so we decided to get married according to the old, heathen, Icelandic tradition, Ásatrú.” 38

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

like the auroras, and you can only see them during winter. I guess the cronyism here is a negative thing. You seem to need to know the right people to get jobs, and at times it looks as though the most qualified person did not get the job because they didn’t know the right people.”

Iceland instead of the US? Daniel: “I wasn’t interested in moving back to the States back then. It just seemed like a good time to move to Iceland; we were getting sick of the rough job market in Spain, and Dögg wanted to be closer to her family.” Dögg: “A family member of mine was sick, and I felt a need to be closer to home and closer to them. Besides that, the quality of life was better here, the air is fresh and it’s safe.” “I might move to the States now

where things seem more organized and by the book.” What’s the best thing about living in Iceland? Daniel: “The nature! I love chill ing out in the country. The small size is both a blessing and a curse. You get to know people better, but it can also drive you mental.” And the worst? Daniel: “Hmmmm … the lack of sun in the winter. But then again, I

Are there any pros/cons to being in a “multi-national” relationship? Dögg: “We get to go abroad once a year to meet the family, and our child is bilingual, which is good. But the language barrier can be a problem, and sometimes I get tired having to think and speak in a second language.” Daniel: “Things do tend to get lost in translation, that’s true. But I find the biggest plus is having a new group of people as my extended family.”

Wake up before they ... Renovation in progress. Please arrive early for check-in to avoid long lines. Iceland is so popular right now that we have to double the capacity of the baggage handling system at the airport. Therefore, we advise everyone who has a flight from Keflavik International Airport to get an early start. Avoid long lines and have more time to enjoy our unique shops, restaurants and our tax- and duty-free prices. Check-in opens at 4:30 am. Scheduled morning buses from Reykjavik run from 4 am. Hotel pick-up at 3:30 am when pre-ordered.

Bring home good memories from Iceland! Keflavik International Airport is one of few airports worldwide that is both tax- and dutyfree, which can save you up to 50% off city prices.

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From the Farm to Your Plate Farmer-to-consumer marketing is on the rise in Iceland with more and more farmers opting to cut out the „middle man“ and sell their products directly to consumers. What‘s more, traditional production methods are also being revived – and valued.

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

The Beint frá býli organization supports direct farmer-toconsumer marketing, which has become increasingly popular in Iceland over the past few years. Consumers view direct marketing as a way of gaining access to fresh, high-quality foods while minimizing their ecological footprint, and farmers see it as an alternative market outlet to increase their income. The concept “Beint frá býli”, which translates as “Straight from the Farm,” enables Icelandic farmers to cut out the “middle man” and sell their pro ducts directly to consumers. Mem bers of the organization sell their products through different outlets, i.e., farmers’ markets, roadside stands or on the farm itself. The Beint frá býli organization dates back to 2004 when the Minister of Agriculture appointed a committee to examine whether and how Icelandic farmers could manufact ure and sell home-made products within set regulations. Various associations and institutes are behind Beint frá býli, including Hólar University College, Icelandic Farm Holidays, and the Farmers Association of Iceland. Forty-six farms all over the country were among the founders of Beint frá býli, and the number has now grown to around one hundred. According to Guðmundur Jón Guðmundsson, chairman of Beint frá býli, the organization’s main goal is to lend support to farmers engag ed in sustainable farming and to promote consumer access to local foods. Products that have been approved by Beint frá býli receive a quality stamp from the organization. Products labeled Gæðamerki (Quality label) are produced regio nally, using local ingredients and in many instances traditional pro duction methods. “Consumers want accountability and to buy clean food instead of, for example, minced meat with added water to give extra weight to the product,” he explains. “But there is still a long way to go. My hope is that in ten years’ time, home-made farm products will be as common

Fresh from the farm. Icelanders have become more aware of the “slow food” ideology and increasingly opt for organic produce. Frú Lauga’s Farmers Market sells products straight from the farm. Photo/Valgarður Gíslason

and accessible here as in neighbour ing countries.”

Traditional skyr and tasty ice cream Husband and wife Helga Elínborg Guðmundsdóttir and Þorgrímur Guðbjartsson run the dairy farm Erpsstaðir in Búðardalur, West Iceland. Besides raising livestock, the couple produces dairy products such as the ice cream brand Kjaftæði, cheese, and delicious treats made from skyr, a traditional dairy product similar to strained yoghurt. Their products are availa ble in Frú Lauga’s Farmers Market in Reykjavík and the Ljómalind Farmers Market in Borgarnes town. The couple also offers accommoda tion and invites visitors to partake in everyday tasks on the farm. Why did you decide to go into agritourism? “The main reason was that there was little or no entertainment for tourists in the Búðardalur region at the time, and we wanted to respond to the growing demand. We decid ed to welcome guests to our farm and introduce them to our daily life. Last year we received around twenty-five thousand guests, including fifteen hundred school children,” Helga explains. Does the tourism part go well with traditional farm chores? “It’s a lot of extra work, but we greatly enjoy receiving visitors, and most of them are very thankful for the chance to meet local people and interact with the animals.

The concept “Beint frá býli”, which translates as “Straight from the Farm,” enables Icelandic farmers to cut out the “middle man” and sell their products directly to consumers.

Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

The “Skyrkonfekt”, sweets made from skyr, from Erpsstaðir farm are a popular treat.

Frú Lauga. Rakel Halldórsdóttir owns Frú Lauga’s Farmers Market with her husband, Arnar Bjarnason. Photo/Stefán Karlsson

“Tours of the farm are very informal. We chat with our guests, show them around the farm and tell them about our products. Usually this side job fits in nicely with our daily chores, but because we keep a tight schedule, any unforeseen event, such as a water leak or run-a way farm animal, can disrupt our whole day.”

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

What is your most popular product? “Our ice cream, Kjaftæði, is with out a doubt our most popular product. People will stop to buy ice cream but leave our shop with bags chock full of home-made cheese, traditional skyr, and confectionaries.” Erpsstaðir farm welcomes guests daily between 1 pm and 5 pm from June 1st until September 15th. During the off-season, they are open to visitors when they’re home. Those who want to visit the cow shed can simply drop by or call in advance.

“Our ice cream, Kjaftæði, is without a doubt our most popular product. People will stop to buy ice cream but leave our shop with bags chock full of home-made cheese, traditional skyr, and confectionaries.”

Back to old traditions

Helga Elínborg Guðmundsdóttir

Frú Lauga’s Farmers Market in Laugarlækur, Reykjavík, was founded in 2009 by husband and wife, Arnar Bjarnason and Rakel Halldórsdóttir. The beautiful little shop carries local produce, meat, and dairy products as well as

selected products from abroad, including olive oil, chocolate, and Italian pasta. In late 2012, the couple opened their second store in Óðinsgata, in downtown Reykjavík. Why did you decide to open a farmers market in Reykjavík? “We studied abroad for some years, both in Italy and in the United States, where direct farmer-to-con sumer marketing has been thriving for a very long time. We moved back home to Iceland in 2002 and missed not being able to access fresh farm products, and that’s when the idea arose. However, at the time we felt that there wasn’t a market for shops like Frú Lauga in Iceland. But that changed in the wake of the economic crash in 2008, as interest in locally produc ed goods increased. “When we first started out, Arnar and I traveled around Iceland and

Enjoy your stay in a beautiful environment in Southern Iceland www.hotelselfoss.is / info@hotelselfoss.is / 480-2500

Restaurant

Arnheiður Hjörleifsdóttir

introduced ourselves and the con cept to farmers. Our aim has always been to do business with farmers who produce organic products and care for their animals.” Are Icelanders more conscious now as to where their food comes from than, say, five years ago? “Yes, I think people are more aware of the ‘slow food’ ideology now than before. What’s more, traditional production methods are being revived and appreciated. I feel that for a very long time Ice landers focused solely on progress and technology but are now embracing both the new and old. “It’s not only food, though. Ice landic consumers have also become more environmentally conscious.”

Clearer regulations needed Arnheiður Hjörleifsdóttir lives on the farm Bjarteyjarsandur in Hval fjörður fjord with her husband,

Guðmundur Sigurjónsson, and their daughter. The family raises livestock on the farm, offers accommodation, and runs a shop where they sell their products directly to consumers. Their products, which include lamb meat, organic pork, smoked lamb, and bjúga, a traditional smoked sausage, as well as jam, are only available at the little farm shop. However, the couple often partake in local Farmers Markets in neighbouring towns. Guests visiting the farm are also in vited to take part in various events, such as the annual sheep round-up in autumn. Why did you decide to go into agritourism? “There was an increase in demand for our products, and that’s why we decided to expand into agri tourism. This was in 2007/08, and the following years turned out to be quite problematic for anyone needing to take out loans for construction. Despite that, we

kept on going but at a much slower pace, and our new facilities were finally ready in 2011,” Arnheiður explains. Does the tourism part go well with traditional farm chores? “It is a lot of work, but it goes well with traditional farm work. There are busy periods in both business es, sometimes they occur at the same time, like during spring. However, at other times, like the weeks before Christmas, there is little to do around the farm but lots to do in the food business.” What are your most popular food products? “The pork and smoked meat is very popular for Christmas because that’s what Icelanders traditionally have for their Christ mas dinner. The bjúga is also very popular among Icelanders. “We are now working on develop ing a new product to add to our line. We have been experimenting with twice-smoked meat of

“It is a lot of work, but it goes well with traditional farm work.” Arnheiður Hjörleifsdóttir

mutton with wild blueberry glaze. The results have been promising.” Where does Iceland stand in farmer-to-consumer marketing, in your opinion? Is there anything that could be done better? “Personally I feel we need clearer regulations in this industry. And the two institutes responsible for supervision of home production need to standardize their regula tions as well. That way we can ensure the best for both producers and the consumer.” Bjarteyjarsandur farm is open daily during the summer months. Visitors are advised to book a day in advance during the off-season.

Heart of the West Things to see, things to do Hótel Bifröst is located close to highway 1 in Borgarfjörður, just over an hours drive from Reykjavík. Borgarfjörður is noted for its diverse beauty and fascinating history as the setting for some of the most famous Icelandic Sagas. Ideal for easy hiking in the beautiful lava landscape, cycling or fishing.

Welcome to Hotel Bifröst, a comfortable 50 room, campus hotel, located in the heart of historic Borgarfjordur. Ideal for individual and family retreat, in close vicinity to many of Iceland’s geothermal and glacial natural wonders. » 50 rooms » Free WiFi » Satellite TV » Local food » Hiking

• Fitness facilities room, Sauna and hot tubs • Hobby room with pool-table and ping pong • Soccer and basketball fields • Nine-hole golf-course Glanni, one of the most scenic courses in Iceland • Café Bifröst restaurant, open every day • Fully equipped meeting facilities • Supermarket

Hotel Bifröst 311 Borgarnes Tel: +354 433 3030 Fax: +354 433 3001 hotel@bifrost.is www.hotelbifrost.is

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Experience real Icelandic cuisine

Bankastræti 2, 101 Reykjavík Tel: (+354) 551 4430 info@laekjarbrekka.is www.laekjarbrekka.is

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The star of the east Iceland waterfalls The hike up to Hengifoss waterfall takes two to three hours (the round trip) and is quite challenging, rated 4 out of 5 in difficulty. At 128 meters (420 ft.) Hengifoss is the second highest waterfall in Iceland and has been called the star of the many waterfalls of East Iceland. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Eastern Highlights

From glaciers and volcanoes, vast highland expanses and deserts completely untouched by humans to narrow fjords flanked by mountains and high sea cliffs crowded with birds, East Iceland is a world on its own. Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

Photo/Birna Einarsdóttir

Our home, the Turf House

The Pre-historic past Once you’ve reached Bustarfell Manor Museum you can take a hike up to Þuríðará river and visit the Álfkonusteinn (e. Fairy Rock). Folklore tells the story of a missus who lived at Bustarfell Manor and went out and into the Fairy Rock to help a fairy in labor. She was given a golden-laced woven cloth for her assistance and that cloth is now preserved at the National Museum of Iceland. The Þuríðará river runs through the Þuríðargil canyon and back in 1980 mineralized fossils were discovered in the canyon. The sedimentary strata in the area dates back to the Tertiary Period and the findings are thus considered a key to the unknown history of Iceland. The findings may possibly suggest that Iceland was in fact, at some point, connected to either North America or Europe.

Photo/Halldóra Andrésdóttir

Krossavíkurfjöll mountains (1.100 m/3.600 ft) There are great hiking trails in the mountains and the view from the top over Vopnafjörður bay is spectacular.

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 63788 04/13

It’s not too long ago since Icelanders stopped living in turf houses and Bustarfell Manor was home to Icelandic families until 1966. Bustarfell Manor is one of Iceland’s best maintained turf houses and has been turned into a museum to give visitors a chance to turn back the wheels of time and take a look just 50-years into the past. The museum’s uniqueness is largely dependent on its ability to have captured the changes in farming and living among its residents dating back to 1770. Next to the museum is a café for visitors to sit down and relax while enjoying the beauty and tranquility of nature.

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Egilsstaðir town is the transport centre of East Iceland.

The capital of the East Egilsstaðir is sometimes dubbed as the capital of the East, but it’s also home to Iceland’s second largest lake, Lagarfljót and thus home to the Lagarfljót Monster. With approximately 2,300 inhabitants, Egilsstaðir may not be a large town but if you’re travelling the East Coast, it’s quite central with easy access (if weather permits) to other towns and villages on the East Coast. Mountains, waterfalls, hiking trails and geothermal pools are just a few of the things the East Coast has to offer with Egilsstaðir right in the center of it all. Unlike many of the smaller towns in Iceland, Egilsstaðir has an International Airport (one of only four) and it serves as a back up for the International Airport at Keflavik.

The largest and only forest Atlavík Bay is a romantic camping site with walking paths in every direction. The camping site sits at a riverbank by Hallormsstaður village where you can rent both boats and horses. Hallormsstaður village is named after the Hallormstaðarskógur forest, the largest (and really, the only) forest in Iceland. Lagarfljót river is a part of the third largest lake in Iceland (53 sq.km or 13,096 acres) and legend has it that the river is home to a monster similar to the world-famous Loch Ness monster.

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Unlike many of the smaller towns in Iceland, Egilsstaðir has a domestic and an international airport, which serves as a back up for the International Airport at Keflavik.

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REYKJAVÍK NATURA

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in KEFLAVÍK

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Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Reindeer Region. East Iceland is home to Iceland’s only reindeer herds. You can see them from Vopnafjörður fjord in the north to the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the south.

A hidden gem

During World War II, in 1944, German fighter planes sunk a British oil tanker called ‘El Grillo’ in the Seyðisfjörður fjord on the East Coast of Iceland.

Prestagil canyon is a beautiful outdoor area in Mjóifjörður fjord. Its name translates to Priest’s Canyon and for a good reason too. Many years ago, a Giantess that lived in the canyon seduced priests in the area into the canyon. Mjóifjörður fjord is a hidden gem on the East Coast and access to it over the wintertime is very limited by road. It’s then not much of a surprise that the poor priests were tempted into the canyon by the Giantess – they had no place else to go!

Scenes of WWII fighting During World War II, in 1944, German fighter planes sunk a British oil tanker called ‘El Grillo’ in the Seyðisfjörður fjord on the East Coast of Iceland. Thankfully, there were no casualties, and this was also the only instance in which WWII fighting reached the shores of Iceland. El Grillo still lies on the bottom of the ocean, free from oil (it was all pumped out in 2002), and a magnificent dive site. For those PADI certified advanced open water divers – this is a dive worth looking into. Not only a chance to do a dive in Iceland, but also a chance to (almost) experience history.

Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

On the east coast visitors can enjoy amazing conditions for bird-watching, including close-up views of puffins and kittiwakes of the seagull family.

Berunes Hostel

Hostel, restaurant and camping Open annually from 1.04. to 1:11. A wide range of accommodation suitable for everyone. Food Service June to end of August.

BONES, STICKS & STONES GALLERY Museum of bones, horns, teeth, skeletons and more. For curious people.

Handcrafted souvenirs, sculptures, carvings, necklages and rings. Made on-site by the museum’s owner. “A gem for quiet time”

After a long drive and tourist journey overload - such a nice, quiet, beautiful place to land. Great bedroom, kitchen and wonderful views to just add more to the pleasure. A peaceful haven for those who enjoy quiet time. Miriam K, Dublin, Ireland

phone: +354 478-8988 or +354 869-7227 e-mail: berunes@hostel.is www.berunes.is.

Open daily until September 1st. Admission is free. Vikurland 7, Djúpivogur village – Tel.: +354 868 9058 stonesandbones@talnet.is

Mjóeyri Travel in Eskifjörður ,,Home away from home" Guesthouse and cottages Accommodation open all year round

www.mjoeyri.is Strandgata 120, 735 Eskifjörður Tel: (+354) 477 1247

e / vol. #04 2014

Icelandic farm holidays

Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

The house was originally used as a hospital for French sailors, but was moved to Hafnarnes bay in Fáskrúðsfjörður fjord in 1939 and used as an apartment building.

Where the pace of life slows down At the mouth of Seyðisfjörður fjord stands a renovated Icelandic farmhouse, now a Nature- and Cultural Center by the name of ‘Skálanes’. The center, which is a place for accommodation, strives to be self-sufficient and is in the early stages of developing a smallholding. Wherever your interests may lie, anyone who enjoys peace, tranquility, or nature, will be sure to enjoy his/her stay at Skálanes. It’s a place where the pace of life slows down, and you breathe the air of learning and observation.

The Seven Tops By climbing the seven mountaintops near Seyðisfjörður fjord, taller than 1,000 meters (3,280 feet), people get the chance to earn a badge as ‘Seyðisfjörður Fjord Mountaineers’. Guest books and stamps are on the top of every mountain so there’s no cheating. Picking up a leaflet to collect stamps on can be done by the harbor.

The remote East fjords. Sometimes it’s like it’s only you and the nature. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

A hotel in an old French hospital Across from Fáskrúðsfjörður fjord en-route to Stöðvarfjörður fjord, stands an old but graceful house built in 1903. The house was originally used as a hospital for French sailors, but was moved to Hafnarnes bay in Fáskrúðsfjörður fjord in 1939 and used as an apartment building. It’s now been moved back to its original location has been beautifully restored as a hotel. On the outskirts of Fáskrúðsfjörður fjord you can also find a cemetery for those French sailors, but 49 men were buried there.

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LaugarfeLL HigHLand HosteL located in the eastern part of the iceland

There are only two km.from the road that leads to Kárahnjúkar to the hostel and it is the only part of road that is not paved. In the summer there is good access to Laugarfell in all kinds of vehicles.

www.highlandhostel.is

tel: +354 773 3323 Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

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Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

The black beach at Breiðavík cove. The North Atlantic is freezing but on a warm day it’s tempting to test the waters.

Petra’s Rock Collection Surrounding the Stöðvarfjörður fjord is a beautiful mountain range and a number of rocks and minerals of various colours. In the village lives a woman by the name of Petra who decided to start collecting these rocks and minerals and is now the proud owner of the largest rock and mineral collection of its kind in the world. Petra greets summertime visitors from 9am until 6pm every day.

Austurstræti (East Street in English), is a new 100-kilometer-long (62 mile) walking trail from Lón on the east coast of Iceland.

Into the wild Austurstræti (East Street in English), is a new 100-kilometer-long (62 mile) walking trail from Lón on the east coast of Iceland, all the way to Fljótsdalur, a valley situated in the highlands north of Vatnajökull glacier. It will take travelers approximately one week to walk the trail from one end to the other. There are huts and campsites along the way. This is a magnificent area. Due to its isolation it is much less travelled than most other parts of Iceland.

For more information see east.is

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Illikambur (Mean Ridge) On the East Street walking trail.

Photo/Gunnlaugur B. Ólafsson

Blábjörg Guesthouse offers comfort at the trail’s head of a birdwatcher’s paradise.

ometime in April, when the wind is warming and the snowdrop blooming, the Atlantic Puffin comes out to salute Borgarfjörður spring in its own fashion. Blábjörg Guesthouse is set right in the heart of the pristine wilderness that births this phenomenon, and in addition to the 27 different hiking routes within walking distance, guests can expect to enjoy a bird enthusiast’s dream—even from the windows of their guest rooms. Blábjörg, a guesthouse meticulously renovated from a fish factory since 2006, opened in the summer of 2011 to provide spacious, comfortable accommodation to guests for the first time in summer of this year. With a few family friendly studio apartments, a total of 11 double rooms, three bathrooms, and a fully-equipped

kitchen, guests will not find themselves in want of amenities. The guesthouse is even host to a spa on its first floor, where visitors can relax in a hot tub and inferred sauna. Outside there is another hot tub, a steam sauna and of course the ice cold sea for the those are brave enough to take a dip!. The catch of the day can be found in a restaurant several minutes walk down the way, Álfakaffi. Beyond the restaurant, shooting off in various directions, are trails totaling more than 150 kilometers in length—countless possibilities. Many of these routes lie in an area of Borgarfjörður commonly known as Víknaslóðir, or the ‘Trail of Deserted Inlets.’ While mostly inhabited through half of the 20th century, they remain the preserve of solely hikers today. Dyrfjöll, one of those essential hikes, is home to

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one of Iceland’s best-hidden treasures. Stórurð, or Boulder Hollow, is a labyrinthine rockscape with a small river lithely winding at its heart. Back in Blábjörg, guests will find it similarly hard to leave. The relaxed atmosphere amidst natural phenomena, the warm hot tubs after a long day hiking, and the quality service of a family-run guesthouse are all things you’ll keep with you long after you leave, in addition to those puffin photos.

Borgarfjörður eystri Blábjörg Guesthouse is set right in the heart of a pristine wilderness.

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Welcome to Borgarfjörður eystri - East Iceland

B lábjörg

The Icelandic bird and nature experience If you wish to experience untouched wilderness and a pristine landscape in the peace of the deserted fjords and inlets, the tiny village of Borgarfjörður eystri is the place to visit.

Birding Excellent location for birdwatching and the best access to Puffins in Iceland.

Hiking Hiking in this area is a unique experience with over 27 day routes nearby.

Relaxing Relax and regain your strength for your next adventure at our beautiful Spa and Wellness centre.

Information and bookings: Helgi Sigurðsson  +354 861 1792  helgisig@simnet.is

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On the Wings of Puffins

www.blabjorg.is Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

Austurland—East Iceland Locals Recommend

Noon Mountain and the Narrow Fjord Hulda Guðnadóttir, an elementary school teacher during the winter and tour guide during summer, lives in Reyðarfjörður with her husband, two cats, and a Golden Retriever. She was born and raised in Kópavogur, Iceland’s second largest municipality, but has been living in East Iceland for the past eight years.

Hulda Guðnadóttir, a teacher and tour guide, lives in Reyðar fjörður in East Iceland. Her perfect Sunday is a drive from the town to the deserted farm Eyri and a walk down to the shore. Photo/Hulda Guðnadóttir

What is your favourite restaurant in the area: “Kaupfélagsbarinn in Norðfjörður and Guesthouse Egilsstaðir. The best place to get coffee and baked goods is the local bakery Sesam brauðhús.”

Describe the perfect Sunday drive from Reyðarfjörður: “I love driving out to the deserted farm Eyri in Reyðarfjörður and walking down to the shore.” 4

Mention three things people should absolutely not miss when visiting the area:

fishermen who used to fish around the coasts of Iceland. “Drive to Mjóifjörður (which translates to Narrow Fjord) and take in the beautiful scenery.”

What is the town’s most famous landmark? “It’s the mountain Hádegisfjall, meaning Noon Mountain.”

surrounding the fjord, sit or lie down in the grass, and listen to the birds singing and the hissing waterfalls. Just heavenly!” 6

What is the best thing about living in Reyðarfjörður?

“Go to the former Iceland spar “It’s so central—we have all the mine Helgustaðanámur (but don’t 5 What’s the best place for services we need. It’s surrounded some peace and quiet? take the Iceland spar with you, it’s by beautiful landscapes and the “Hike up one of the mountains protected!) “Take a walk around people are extremely friendly.” the town of Fáskrúðsfjörður and visit the French hospital and Hike up one of the mountains surrounding museum. All the town’s street the fjord, sit or lie down in the grass, and names are in Icelandic and listen to the birds singing and the hissing French, in memory of the French waterfalls. Just heavenly!”

Vopnafjörður closer than you think Magnificent scenery, wide open spaces and views town Festival first weekend in July Museums and exhibitions

vopnafjordur.com Tourist Information Center Hafnarbyggd 4a - 690 Vopnafjordur TEL: +354 473 1331

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Visit us at the highest settled farm in Iceland... ...only 8 km from the ring road!

Experience: Local food Sleeping in a turf house Guided Askja/Kverkfjöll excursion with the locals Adventures atmosphere and mountain view Find out who we are!

www.fjalladyrd.is // fjalladyrd@fjalladyrd.is // tel: 471-1858 or 894-8181

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Austurland—East Iceland Locals Recommend

Magical moments in Berufjörður Berglind Häsler is a true jack-of-all-trades. She’s a journalist, vegan hot-dog manufacturer, the keyboard player of the popular band Prins Póló, and a sheep farmer. She recently moved with her husband and three children to the farm Karlsstaðir in Berufjörður, East Iceland.

Best restaurant in the area: “I can recommend the restaurant in Hótel Framtið in Djúpivogur and also the café in the Langabúð Museum.”

What is your all-time favourite spot in Berufjörður? “Our farm, Karlsstaðir, in Berufjörður. We just recently moved here from the city, so our home is still in the making. We produce vegan “odd dogs” (hot dogs made from barley), named Bulsur. People can order a meal and a tour around the farm by sending us an email to berglind@bulsur.is.”

Content sheep farmer. Berglind Häsler recently moved with her husband and three children to Karlsstaðir farm in Berufjörður fjord, East Iceland. Her favourite landmark in the area is Búlandstindur mountain. Photo/Berglind Häsler

What is your favourite landmark in the area? “Búlandstindur mountain.”

What can those traveling with children do when in Berufjörður? “Kids really enjoy a trip to the beach and shorter walks around the area.”

Name four interesting places people should not miss when visiting Berufjörður and Djúpivogur:

easily recognisable by its triangular shape. Some believe the mountain has supernatural powers, others simply enjoy the strenuous hike to its peak. “Gautavík is a farm located on the northern side of Berufjörður bay. It’s a former trading post and harbour, and the old house ruins are now preserved.”

“The Eggs in Gleðivík is a magnificent piece of art made by Sigurður Guð mundsson, one of Iceland’s most respected artists. The piece consists of thirty-four bird eggs, one from each type of bird that nests in the area. 2 Describe your perfect Sunday “Teigarhorn farm, located around drive: four kilometres west of Djúpivogur, “The scenic Öxi road has been greatly became world-famous for the crystal improved and became a popular route lized zeolite (minerals that form when between Berufjörður to Skriðdalur volcanic rocks and ash layers react valley, and from there on to Egilsstaðir with alkaline groundwater) found town. The scenery on the way is on its land. It’s probably the most extreme but very beautiful. There are renowned zeolite spot in the world. many waterfalls and interesting places “Búlandstindur is a beautiful mountain to stop.” located in Berufjörður fjord. It’s

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Búlands7 What is your all-time favourite tindur is a spot in Berufjörður? beautiful “My favourite is a walk along the mountain beach with Búlandstindur mountain in located in the background and breathing in the Berufjörður fresh sea air. Those moments are like fjord. It’s magic to me.” easily recognisable 8 What‘s the best thing about by its triangthe area, in your opinion? ular shape. “When I first visited Berufjörður in Some believe 2004, I was astonished by its beauty. the mountain This feeling has only amplified since. has super The landscape is magnificent and natural powever-changing. There is an ers, others unexplainable energy in the air, and simply enjoy it’s wonderful that you only have to the strenuous open your front door to experihike to its ence it.” peak.”

Village walks

A fun and a rather easy walk in a charming village. A local person will be your guide who will give you insight into daily life. In each tour we visit a local home/person and get some refreshments. A great way to get to know Icelandic culture and how Icelanders live in the eastern most part of Iceland.

Come as a stranger, leave as a friend!

Tanni Travel

Strandgata 14, 735 Eskifjörður tannitravel@tannitravel.is | www.tannitravel.is Tel. +354 476-1399

Book your tours and recreation on:

SKIPALÆKURICELAND Small family run company, which offers comfortable low priced accommodation in the heart of Egilsstaðir. If you are to enjoy Egilsstaðir the guesthouse perfectly located in a walking distance to super markets, restaurants, museums, a swimming pool and any leisure that the community has to offer. If you are to travel around East of Iceland Egilsstaðir is a central location and therefor an ideal place to stay. The Guesthouse consists of five comfortable double rooms, all beds are made up and 2 towels are provided for every guest. Other facilities are shared, large living room with a television and small balconies, fully equipped kitchen and bathrooms. We offer free wireless Internet for our guests.

www.ormurinn.is

I email: info@ormurinn.is I Tel: 00 354 852 1004

Welcome to Granny’s Kingdom! Skipalækur is an Icelandic Guesthouse, one of the originals of Icelandic Farmholidays, located 2,5km from Egilsstadir, East Iceland. Skipalækur stands by lake Lagarfljót in the inlands of Fljótsdalshérað, an area of spectacular surroundings in summer as well as in its winter coat. Skipalækur is centrally located for visiting the East Fjords, Hallormsstaður forrest, the highlands of Snæfell and many more attractions.

We are open all year. www.skipalaekur.is I email: booking@skipalaekur.is I tel: +354 471 1324 Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014 Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

63 3

Austurland—East Iceland Locals Recommend

Monsters, forests, and stone museums Ívar Ingimarsson is the owner of Birta and Olga Guesthouse and a former professional soccer player who played for eight years with English Championship team Reading. He now lives in Egilsstaðir, East Iceland, with his wife, Hrefna D. Arnardóttir, their two children, Íris Ósk (8 years old) and Víðir Freyr (10 years old), and the family cat Lilly.

What is your favourite restaurant in Egilsstaðir: “We are lucky in Egilsstaðir to have a number of good restaurants.

Café Nilsen is cosy and surround ed by trees, Egilsstaðir Guesthouse and Icelandair Hotel both have very good restaurants. But my

favourite restaurant right now is Salt café and bistro. My son told me the other day when we were having lunch there that it was the best restaurant in East Iceland, so I have to go with that.” 3 2

Ívar Ingimarsson is the owner of Birta and Olga Guesthouse and a former professional football player. He recommends people go monster-hunting with their children in Lake Lagarfljót and a visit to Petra’s Stone Museum..

Describe the perfect Sunday drive from the town: “Egilsstaðir is centrally located so we are spoiled for choice; one of my favourite Sunday drives is a trip to Borgarfjördur (71 km) to look at the puffins and have the fish soup at Álfakaffi. “Another is a drive down to my hometown of Stöðvarfjörður (73 km) to visit Petra’s Stone Museum. I recommend you

grab yourself a cup of coffee and wander through the garden to look at all the different rocks and plants.”

Mention three things people should absolutely not miss when visiting the area: “Drive up to the top of Fjarðarheiði mountain road and enjoy the panoramic view of the nearby lake and its surroundings. “Try the lamb-burger or the local beef straight from the farm at Guesthouse Egilsstaðir. “Walk up to Hengifoss waterfall, the second highest waterfall in Iceland.”

SNÆFELLSJÖKULL Jöklaferðir Glacier tours www.snjofell.is • Sími / Tel 435 6783 snjofell@snjofell.is • snjofell@hringhotels.is 64

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

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East Iceland

Watch puffins from a special hideout

Guided tours at Kárahnjúkar dam

The Borgarfjörður eystri fjord area provides a number of excellent facilities for bird-watching. More specifically, a special hideout viewing location near the harbour of the town allows visitors to view a wide variety of unique bird species native to the area. At Hafnarhólmi, a spot located by the smallboat harbour, visitors can enjoy amazing conditions for bird-watching, including close-up views of puffins and kittiwakes of the seagull family.

Ljósastapi The Elephant

Photos/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Fljótsdalur Station is Iceland’s largest power station. It produces a quarter of all electricity generated in the country, from a 420 meter vertical drop of water originating in the great Vatnajökull glacier. Guided tours of the Kárahnjúkar dam is offered on wednesdays and saturdays from 14-17.

Borgarfjörður eystri

Seyðisfjörður

Kárahnjúkar

At Vopnafjörður fjord in Northeast Iceland there’s a large elephant standing out in the ocean. It’s actually called ‘Ljósastapi’ in Icelandic, but has been dubbed ‘The Elephant’ for years due to its shape. It’s a large pillar of rock just a stone’s throw from the beach and on one of Vopnafjörður’s many popular walking routes.

Mjóifjörður

The Tvísöngur sound sculpture Tvísöngur is a site-specific sound sculpture by German artist Lukas Kühne, located on a mountainside above the town of Seyðisfjörður. It consists of five interconnected concrete domes of different sizes. The heights of the domes are between two and four meters and they cover an area of about 30 square meters. Each dome has its own resonance that corresponds to a tone in the Icelandic musical tradition of five-tone harmony, and works as a natural amplifier to that tone. You can test your singing skills and experiment with their acoustic sensation. Admission is free.

visitseydisfjordur.com

An adventerous drive The steep gravel mountain road leading to Mjóifjörður fjord and its tiny village is for up to eight months of the year. Snow walls up to 6 metres (19 f) line part of the road for week after the snow has been cleared. When you are through the tunnel you should stop at the Klifbrekkufossar waterfall, and after visiting the small village you can keep on and drive the breathtaking road all the way to the lighthouse and weather station in Dalatangi on Iceland’s easternmost point. Photos/The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Tvísöngur photo courtesy of visitseydisfjordur.com

The Icelandic elephant

Some places have a certain something about them. People just want to be there. And if you are lucky you get to spend some time at one of those places. Atli Bollason shared an apartment at Ingólfsstræti 8a few years ago with two friends. He never knew who would be there or what would happen when he got home. Sometimes it was a café, sometimes a cinema and after the bars closed there would maybe be a line outside. People just showed up. Ingólfsstræti 8 Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl

Hitchhikers Guide. Hitchhiking is a great way to explore Iceland.

Thumbs up! Iceland is one of the most magical places on earth, and for most people in the world it is like an expedition to another planet. If you are looking for the adventure of a lifetime, want to see idyllic spots and places, and experience the local culture in all its abundance, then hitchhiking is the best way for you to travel! Text by Karolin Kruuse

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Roasd to nowhere. Take the time to wander, but know where you are going. This is Vatnajökull glacier ahead. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

ou can see elves peeking out from behind the moss and trolls swimming in the sea and playing with turf, peek into hidden magical places that only locals know about, and feel free as a puffin. So what are you waiting for? Thumbs up and hit the road.

map, find a tourist spot (hotel, bus station, tourist infor mation, or car rental place) and pick up a booklet that has a proper map inside. The Keflavík airport information center offers a map of Reykjavík and also one of Iceland, but this map only shows bigger places and attractions.

Hitchhiking recipe

Boots. You’re not at the South Pole, and there are no

Clothes. Imagine the sun shining in the sky like a springy daffodil and a sky as blue as a true Viking girl’s eyes. This is a world where anything can happen. And just as in a few minutes the daffodil can fade and the beautiful Viking girl’s eyes can turn into the eyes of a scary, black troll, the weather in Iceland, especially in the highlands, can be very fickle and unpredictable and change without warning. It’s good to be prepared for anything by wearing multiple layers. Also be sure to have sunglasses and rain gear, warm clothing and windbreakers within your reach.

Map. Take the time to wander, but know where you are going. A detailed map is worth the money; look for a map that shows road numbers and gas stations. If you need a free

penguins around, but there are puffins (that are even cuter than penguins), and there is no reason why your feet shouldn’t be happy and dance like Mumble’s. Regular sneakers are totally fine, when you are hitchhiking from city to city, but if you also want to see the sights out in the country, then good boots are recommended, as you will probably do more hiking than expected. There are many beautiful and serene sights to discover, which may include hiking up hills and through mud or lava fields.

Charged cell phone. With smartphones, it’s easy to be a high-tech hitchhiker nowadays. Some people, who have enough space for a computer in the car, post the ride to some of the Web pages for hitchhikers, such as Samferda. net or Carpoolworld.com, as well as to apps, such as

Iceland Mag / vol. #04 2014

Hitting the road. It’s very save to hitchhike in Iceland. Use the opportunity and get tips from the locals.

iThumb and Rideshare4less. You can check the drivers in advance via profiles or reviews from other hitchhikers. For smartphones there are loads of apps available for Iceland with information about the sights, hotels, campgrounds—you name it. Most of them also have maps that you can use offline. This is very useful if you don’t want to spend a lot on mobile data.

Good book. When it’s raining cats and dogs, and you are not having any luck with hitchhiking or really with anything, then make a cup of tea and sit down either in a gas station or a tent and lose yourself in a really good book. This will raise your spirits and soon the sun will come out (check the weather forecast at en.vedur.is). You can get an English copy of Independent People by Iceland’s Nobel Prize-winning writer, Halldór Laxness, to stuff into your backpack. 70

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

You can get an English copy of Independent People by Ice land’s Nobel Prize-winning writer, Halldór Laxness, to stuff into your backpack.

Swimsuit. Do you smell cured shark eggs? If so, don’t worry, you haven’t teleported yourself to a Þorrablót (Icelandic midwinter festival) and don’t have to start eating rotten shark either. Instead, you are in the most unique place on earth, where even springs are hot, and you can find a swimming pool where you can take a dip almost anywhere (but be careful—most hot springs are much too hot for bathing). The peculiar smell comes from the high sulfur content of the hot water and is nothing to worry about. When you have had a long day of hitchhiking and walking, you won’t even notice the aroma—instead you will feel like you’re in heaven. Water. Don’t forget to fill your water bottle from a stream or even in a gas station bathroom (the cold water from the tap is clean spring water and is safe to drink), because hitchhiking is an adventure and you never know where you will be dropped off.

Iceland Magazine Explains

ask@icelandmag.com

Iceland Mag explains Photos/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

The Icelandic horse. A strong and hardy race that was brought here by the settlers 1100-1200 years ago.

How many horses are in Iceland? There are between 70.000 and 80.000 horses in Iceland. Large percentage of them runs free in the mountains during the summer months. Horse herding in the autumn is a beloved tradition in Iceland.

he Icelandic horse is hardy, sure-footed and long-lived and through the ages it was fondly termed “the most useful servant”, seeing as it made life in this barren country just a tad bit easier. Laws prohibit horses to be imported into Iceland, and exported animals are not allowed to return. This has resulted in a very pure and healthy breed of horse. The Ice landic horse may be small in stature, but re member it is not a pony.

What does “þetta reddast” mean? The Icelandic phrase “þetta reddast” is so frequently used, it has been described as the country’s motto. “Þetta reddast” can be translated to “it will all work out okay”. Life could often be difficult in this barren, harsh country and over time Icelanders have developed a mentality which can sometimes seem a bit carefree. When faced with

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

difficulties Icelanders always maintain a belief that things will work out in the end; no matter how big the problem, a solution will always present itself. So, are you stuck in the middle of nowhere? Did you lose your passport? Þetta reddast!

When does the black flies season begin? The black flies (also known as midges) usu ally appear in mid-June. Regular mosquito repellent works against them but if you are planning to visit Lake Mývatn (the name actually means Midge Lake!) in north Ice land an insect-proof net to wear over your head is very much recommended. There is good reason for the lake’s name! There are, however, no mosquitoes in Iceland. Black flies are pretty much the only insects you have to worry about (not much though).

Tune In When driving around Iceland in a car with a broken CD-player you can instead listen to Icelandic radio. Radio is broadcast to most parts of the country but note that there are more stations available in Reykjavík. Rás 1 | 93,5 The Icelandic national radio station. Classical music and intellectual documentaries. Favored by senior citizens. ruv.is Rás 2 | 90,1 Also a national radio station but for a broader cross section of the Icelandic society, from hipsters to truck drivers. Pop music and current affairs. ruv.is Bylgjan | 98,9 The most popular radio station in Iceland with the typical Icelandic family often seen driving with Bylgjan blasting on the car stereo. News and pop/folk music with a stroke of ’80s and ’90s flair. visir.is FM957 | 95,7 Tune in to get your fix of David Guetta, Justin Timberlake, Katy Perry and the like. visir.is K100,5 | 100,5 Music—a mixture of what you might hear on FM957 and Bylgjan. Lindin | 102,9 The only Christian radio station in Iceland. lindin.is X-ið | 97,7 Rock, indie, drum&bass— this is your alternative station. The only English radio host in Iceland, the rockabilly legend Smutty Smiff (see interview on p. 33, is on air every weekday between 11am and 2 pm. visir.is Útvarp Saga | 99,4 Not much music but a lot of angry people talking. Avoid at all cost. utvarpsaga.is Go online for regional dials.

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2014

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Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com

When is the best time for puffin watching?

Photo/Stefán Karlsson

The Atlantic Puffin, also known as the Common Puffin, is species of seabird in the auk family that breeds in and around Iceland. This small, sturdy bird with the colourful beak goes under the name „Lundi“ in Icelandic. Puffins spend the autumn and winter out at sea but return to land to breed in late spring. Iceland is the home to more than half of the wold’s puffin population and the best time for puffin watching is from June to August. In late August it is not uncommon to find confused chicks wandering the streets of Vestmannaeyjabær town. Locals will catch the chicks, feed them and then have them weighed and measured before releasing them.

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.

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The Gateway to Iceland

Shopping and dining at Keflavik Airport Whether you’re looking for designer wear, a souvenir, or just something good to eat. Keflavik Airport has what you’re looking for whether you’re arriving in Iceland, in-transit, or leaving the country.

Eleven international airlines are scheduled to fly to Keflavík International Airport this summer, 2014. Those airlines are: FlyBe, Lufthansa, Germanwings, Delta, Edelweiss Air, Transavia France, Austrian, NIKI, Air Berlin, Air Greenland and Travel Service which is currently the biggest Czech airline company. This comes as a welcomed ad dition to the five airlines currently operating out of Keflavík Airport, namely Icelandair, the largest carrier operating out of Leifsstöð, WOW Air, SAS, Easy Jet and Norwegian.

Keflavík Airport Staff. Celebrating that the airport has been recognized as one of the best in the world.

s is customary in most airports, Keflavik International Air port offers a variety of restaurants, cafés and duty free stores to the travellers leaving Iceland. It is also the only airport in the world that offers a duty-free store at baggage-claim where visitors and Icelanders coming back home get the last-chance to grab a great deal on that big bag of candy or a 2-4 of beer. Keflavik Airport is considered one of the best airports in the world and was recognized as such by the (Airport Council International ) ACI in 2013. In the departure hall, there are a number of stores selling Icelandic design or other internationally known labels and merchandise, all at tax and dutyfree prices.

Although many of the stores at the airport are also located in the city, the prices at the airport are often much lower and thus worth having a look around in to get a better deal on that Icelandic Wool Sweater you’ve been longing for during your trip. Renovations of the department hall are scheduled for the first half of 2015 with new stores and new restaurants opening up at the airport before the high season of next summer.

Special Offers on Local Goods Voted on of the best by passengers in an ACI survey.

WIFI Keflavik Airport has recently upgraded their WiFi service and will now be offering high-speed WiFi Internet throughout the airport terminal. Whilst passengers have been able to log-on in the past, the connection was instable and at times unavailable. A new connection has made that a problem of the past, and every traveller should now be able to log onto the free WiFi without any hassle.

Passengers travelling through Keflavík International Airport can enjoy various special offers on popular products and refresh ments available at the airport. Among those are local designs and handcrafted products All the offers are listed in Keflavík Airport’s new brochure as well as online. www.kefairport.is/English/ ShopsRestaurants/

The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is

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Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Have fun in Akranes this summer ! Lots of things to do ! A SEASIDE TOWN IN WEST ICELAND

RKE

Lively market atmosphere on Saturdays!

Akranes lighthouse open all summer! IRISH DAYS

Spend a day by the sea on Langisandur, Akranes’ own natural beach

Sea angling

The pool is open well into the evening all summer!

Aakll krinads nof fuens

Akrafjall, the natural treasure of Akranes!

–

Blacksmiths and exhibitions in the Museum Centre this summer!

Want to go shopping, go to the movies or out for dinner? Everything's possible in Akranes!

Great campsite and all amenities within walking distance!

Family picnics in Garðalundur - barbecue, frisbee-golf and a playground

One of Iceland's best golf courses is in Akranes!

Whale watching

Come golfing!

www.visitakranes.is / www.akranes.is You ﬁnd us on Facebook and Twitter

My Neighbourhood – Vestmannaeyjar

The Westman Islands is a archipelago of 15 islands and about 30 skerries. Pictured is the town of Vestmannaeyjar, located on Heimaey, the biggest island, with 13.4 sq. km. Photo/Pétur Steingrímsson

The Ever Present Forces of Nature Árni Óli Ólafsson lives in Vestmannaeyjar town, located on Heimaey island, South Iceland. Heimaey is the only inhabited island of the Westman Island archipelago.

Favourite place for brunch or breakfast: “I love to have a coffee at the Eymundsson bookstore, but I usually have my breakfast at home.”

Name and occupation: Árni Óli Ólafsson, recording engineer and owner of @Island Studios. Spouse: Elva Björk Bjarnadóttir

Best café? “The café Te og kaffi is found in Eymundsson’s bookstore, and their coffee is pretty good. Best coffee in Iceland.”

Children and/or other family members: Árni Óli says, “I have two children, Elíana Ísis and Bjarni Óli.” How long have you lived in Vestmannaeyjar town? “I grew up here and have lived here most of my life.” What‘s the best thing about your town? “Nature. The pace of life here is very slow, and you know most of the people. The best thing about Vestmannaeyjar is that you are able to do all the things you love to do.” Favourite restaurant? “Slippurinn, which is a family-run restaurant down by the harbour. It is only open during high season.”

Iceland Magazine / vol. #04 2014

Your favourite spot? “My favourite spot! Breiðabakki during the summer. It’s just beautiful. I recommend you spend some hours there and watch the sunset.”

Mention two interesting things to see or do while in town? “Well, there’s a place called Kaplagjóta, which is located right next to hole number 8 on the golf course. There you can get deeply in touch with the forces of nature. “Stafsnes beach is also a lovely place.

“There’s a place called Kaplagjóta, which is located right next to hole number 8 on the golf course. There you can get deeply in touch with the forces of nature.”

It’s nice to take a safari boat there, but you can also walk by crossing Dalfjall mountain.” 3

What’s the town’s most famous landmark? “Eldfjall mountain, which formed during the 1973 eruption.”

Óli Ólafsson lives in Vestmannaeyjar town on Heimaey island. His favourite spot is Breiðabakki beach.

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