Iceland Magazine issue #6

Early Bird Cafés P 8 Lunar Landscape P 12 Sensual Circus P 26 vol.

05 2014

T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e

Yo ur

FR E

Ec op y

Best of p.40

South Iceland From geothermal pools made by the forces of nature to the renowned Golden Circle

+

Iceland’s Modern Families P 14 The Metamorphosis of the Grandi Harbour Area P 30 Beers to You P 54

Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e

South Coast, Waterfalls and Glacier Hike Departure: 08:30 Duration: 11 hours Price: 20.900 ISK

Landmannalaugar by bus Departure: 08:30 Duration: 12 hours Price: 19.500 ISK

Golden Circle Departure: 08:30, 10:30, 13:00, 16:15 & 19:00 Duration: 5 - 8.5 hours Price from: 8.000 ISK

Combination tours for those who want to make the most of their day City Sightseeing & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 13.000 ISK

www.grayline.is

The Blue Lagoon & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 12.500 ISK

iceland@grayline.is

City Sightseeing & The Blue Lagoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: Flexible Price: 8.000 ISK

+354 540 1313

Whale Watching Departure: Various Duration: 3 hours Price: 9.000 ISK

South Coast & Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Departure: 08:00 Duration: 14 hours Price: 24.900 ISK

Taste the Saga Departure: 17:30 Duration: 1.5 - 2 hours Price: 5.200 ISK

The Blue Lagoon Departure: Various Duration: Flexible Price: 3.700 ISK Entrance fee can be bought seperatly according to Blue Lagoon price list.

Book your tour now!

Contact information – 24 hour booking service • Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 • Bus Terminal, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland

Contents from the editor

70

Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@iceland­mag.com

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34

Embracing the Elements

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t’s an international sport to moan about the weather. It’s too hot, too wet, too cold, too dry, too humid. And what it is, that’s too much, usually depends on the geographical location of the complainer.

A friend of mine ran Icelandair’s Paris office for a while.

When it got particularly hot and sticky during the summer months, he knew he would get walk-ins whose only wish was, “Please get me to Iceland as fast as possible.”For those in­­­habi­­ tants of the City of Light, rain and chilly wind in July was paradise.

Good luck trying to sell that idea to the people of Iceland.

It’s a little bit mental how occupied we Icelanders are by the weather. After more than a millennium on the very edge of the habitable world, the nation is almost hysterical after a For those rainy June. Admittedly it in­­­habi­­tants was a record downpour, so maybe we deserve some of the City of sympathy?

Light, rain and However, it’s uncertain if any pity is to be found chilly wind among the many visitors to in July was the country.

It’s not only Parisians paradise. escaping the relentless heat beating down on the big city who appreciate the Icelandic weather. When asked in polls, up to 90 percent of tourists had no qualms whatsoever about the way they were treated by the local gods of weather during their stay.

As the weather in Iceland is notoriously unpredictable, you better pack both shorts and a raincoat. It’s not unusual to experience the wind blowing from all directions within the same hour. From Iceland Magazine’s repertoire of useless Icelandic phrases (see icelandmag.com) this one is surely in the top three: Hvernig verður veðrið í kvöld?/How will the weather be tonight?

Come rain, wind, sleet, or a blinding snow blizzard, our dear visitors to the country usually accept it all as part of experiencing the elements of the north.

And that is a healthy attitude indeed when traveling in Iceland.

40 Contents 6-24 Lookout 6 A Little Taste Of Paradise 8 Coffee Shops for Early Birds Meat Soup Wagon 10 Screams in Stokkseyri 12 The Wasteland 14-16 Highlights Ahead 18 Iceland’s Modern Families 20-21 Old School 22 Ghost Museum 24 History & Home Baking 26 It’s Not All About Sex Iceland’s only circus has an adult section where sensuality and laughter go hand-in-hand. Sirkús Ísland is on the road for the very first time this summer.

34 From Industry to Culture Up until recently, the Grandi harbour area in Reykjavík was limited to anything “fishy.” However, over the past couple of years, the area has evolved into a fantastic conglomeration of restaurants, shops, museums, and IT businesses, as well as fishing boats and baiting huts.

40-58 Special Supplement: Southern Comfort South Iceland is home to the renowned Golden Circle tour consisting of Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir geothermal area, and Þingvellir national park. Those destinations never cease to amaze, but they are only a fraction of the diverse travel opportunities that the country has to offer.

60 The Icelandic Beer Revolution Beer was a forbidden product in Iceland, up until the 1st of March, 1989. This date is now known as Beer Day. Thus, beer celebrated its 25th birthday in Iceland this year.

IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Benedikt Freyr Jónsson benni@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Matt Eliason, Marvin Dupree, Spessi, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: Hekla Fönn in the Secret Lagoon in South Iceland.

See feature p. 40-58 . Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing.

Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area.

Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com

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Iceland Magazine / vol. #05 2014

64 Iceland Magazine Explains What words are considered to be the most beautiful and the ugliest in the Icelandic language, and other burning issues.

Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements.

Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.

68 Keflavík International Airport Big changes ahead at Iceland’s main airport.

70 Always Teeming With Life Designer Signý Kolbeinsdóttir recommends what to do and see in her neighborhood of downtown Reykjavík.

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Lookout

Photo/Alexandra Rut

Paradís

A little taste of paradise Paradís is the latest addition to downtown Reykjavík‘s ice cream parlour flora (which now counts four in total).

Paradís is located on Njálsgata (where the street intersects with Frakkastígur) and the name means “paradise” (it’s also a play on the Icelandic word “ís” meaning ice cream). Owner Alexandra Rut Sólbjartsdóttir mastered the art of ice cream-making at the Gelato University in Bologna, Italy, and will serve you delicious, handmade gelato and sorbet.

Paradís is the latest addition to downtown Reykja­­­vík‘s ice cream parlour flora (which now counts four in total). Paradís is located on Njálsgata (where the street intersects with Frakkastígur) and the name means “paradise” (it’s also a play on the Icelandic word “ís” meaning ice cream). Owner Alexandra Rut Sólbjartsdóttir mastered the art of ice cream-making at the Gelato University in Bologna, Italy, and will serve you delicious, handmade gelato and sorbet.

Entering the pastel-coloured parlour is almost like stepp­­ing back in time. Old pictures decorate the colourful walls, and it has the appearance of a ‘50‘s milkshake bar.

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Iceland Magazine / vol. #05 2014

Alexandra Rut Sól­­­­­­bjarts­dótt­ir mastered the art of ice cream-­making in Italy.

She runs the ice cream parlour Paradís in down­­­town Reykja­­vík.

And locals have welcomed this little piece of paradise with open arms. The parlour has been packed from the day it opened its doors, and that despite the horrid weather we’ve seen this summer.

“Our aim is to make the world’s best ice cream, and our gelato and sorbet is made from scratch each morning,” Alexandra Rut explains.

“Chocolate and strawberry are the two most popular flavours. People are also fond of our Oreo and coconut ice cream. I try and offer different flavours daily, so that our customers always have something new and exciting to taste.”SM

ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS SML 69678 06/14

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Smáralind´s free shuttle bus goes between the Tourist information center in Aðalstræti and Smáralind shopping center, via Kópavogur museum district.

The bus runs between May 15th and September 1st and the journey is quick and comfortable. Hop on and hop off – and bring as many shopping bags as you like.

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OPEN: WEEKDAYS 11-19 THURSDAYS 11-21 SATURDAYS 11-18 SUNDAYS 13-18 SMARALIND.IS FIND US ON

Lookout early birds

Early-bird coffee shops Most “Reykvíkingar” are not what you’d call “early birds.”

They go to bed late and enjoy a good lie-in on weekends, which means the city doesn’t really come to life until around noon. For those in need of caffeine and food before that time, here is a complete list of “early-bird” cafés within the city centre. people­-watching to go with it. The place serves a classic American breakfast, as well as tasty burgers and, of course, coffee and “uppá­­hellingur,” which is normal filtered coffee, with “ábót” (free refill).

Mon–Fri: 8 am until 1 am Sat–Sun: 12 pm until late

6 Sandholt Bakery

The truck. The Grái köttur’s most popular breakfast dish is without a doubt “trukkurinn”, or the truck.

Kaffitár (right) is a franchise you’ll find all over the city.

1 Kaffitár Kaffitár is a franchise you’ll find all over the city. The one in Banka­ stræti opens at 7:30 am on weekdays. The coffee is delish, and they’ve employed many of Iceland’s coffee barista champions, so you know you’re being served an award-winning cup of coffee each time. They also serve sandwiches and other light snacks to go with your coffee.

The Grey Cat, is a small, friendly diner situated in the basement of an old house on Hverfisgata, just across from the National Theatre.

It serves a large, traditional American breakfast and lunch, the most popular meal being the “Truck.”

Photos/Pjetur

Located on busy Bankastræti street, it is the ideal place for some breakfast and some

Sandholt Bakery on Laugavegur is popular among locals because of their mouth-watering sourdough bread, pastries, and chocolates.

The space was recently expanded into an empty space next door, making room for a lovely little café that’s ideal for an early breakfast or a tasty lunch.

Mon–Sun: 6:30 am until 9 pm

Mon–Fri: 7:15 am until 3 pm Sat–Sun: 8 am until 3 pm

4 Bergsson mathús Mon–Fri: 7:30 am until 6 pm Sat–Sun: 9 am until 7 pm

2 Te og kaffi Te og kaffi run a chain of coffee shops all over town. The one in Lækjartorg square boasts huge windows, making it ideal for people-watching, and the coffee is pretty good.

Bergsson mathús serves what is best described as a healthy brunch, accompanied by their very own freshly baked sourdough bread. And their coffee is not too shabby either.

The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly, but it does tend to get very busy around noon.

Mon–Sun: 7 am until 7 pm

Mon–Fri: 8 am until 6 pm Sat–Sun: 9 am until 6 pm

3 Grái kötturinn Grái kötturinn, which translates as

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5 Prikið Prikið is a little bit of everything: restaurant, bar, nightclub, and one of Reykjavík’s oldest coffee shops.

The soup truck is run by two brothers.

Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson

Meat soup for the soul

T

wo brothers, Gabríel Þór Gíslason and Benjamín Ágúst Gísla­­son, have taken to the streets this summer and offer hungry passers-by a bowl of tasty, Icelandic meat soup from their newly purchased food truck.

“Benjamín has dreamt about opening his own restaurant since he was five years old, and now that dream has finally come true. He spent great amounts of time in the kitchen trying to come up with the very best meat soup recipe,” Gabríel explains.

During the day, the food truck is parked outside the Reykjavík Gramm­­ar School building (MR), in Lækjargata. However, the brothers will also cater to those feeling a bit peckish after a night out on the town.

On weekends, the soup truck will be parked on Lækjartorg square.

Lookout early birds

Goose bumbs The Ghost Centre is full of things that go bump in the night.

Screams in Stokkseyri

T

Photos/Ghost Centre

he Ghost Centre in Stokkseyri is best described as “kitsch.“ Located by the seafront in the small town of Stokkseyri (roughly a 40-minute drive from Reykjavík), it gives guests a taste of a unique aspect of Icelandic literature: the folklore of ghosts and ghost stories.

Visitors can walk through the exhibition while listening to various ghost stories on a headset. The tour takes about an hour.

We highly recommend you stop for a drink at the Ghost Bar before the tour, and then finish up by having dinner at Fjöruborðið restaurant next door.

The price for adults is 2000 krónur (13 euros).

The Ghost Centre / Hafnargotu 9, Stokkseyri 825, Iceland

www.n1.is

facebook.com/enneinn ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS ENN 69875 07/14

Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland

The points indicate where you’ll find N1 service stations around Iceland

Complimentary

Wi-Fi

at selected N1 service stations

N1 is a network of service stations, located all around Iceland. There you can find anything you might need for the road, both fuel, food and entertainment.

Our mission is to offer excellent services to anyone on the road.

Tank up your car at N1 and fuel your body and soul at the same time.

Let´s go!

In our souvenir shop you will find Icelandic design inspired by the Northern Lights ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS ENN 69875 07/14

Designs by: Dimmblá Stál í stál - Jens Volcap Olason paintings Gingó hönnun Svandís Kandís and more Free coffee & tea at our store

Maritime museum CCP

Hotel Marina

The Northern Light Center

Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center

The old harbour Harpan Music hall Reykjavík Art museum Kolaportið fleemarket

www.aurorareykjavik.is

Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík Open every day from 09:00 - 21:00

The Wasteland Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

The gravel and black sand deserts north of Vatnajökull glacier are only accessible for a few months of the year. This is the area where group of astronauts from NASA practiced in 1965 and 1967 in an environment similar to what they would encounter on the moon.

Amongst the twelve men that have set foot on the moon nine trained in Iceland, including Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin.

This photo was captured close to the mountain hut Dreki in Drekagil gorge in the region of Askja. Rising up in the horizon to the left is Mt. Herðubreið, often referred to as the queen of Iceland’s mountains.JK

Lookout highlights ahead

Off-venue concerts The annual one-day Fish Factory music festival will be held in Borgarfjörður Eystri fjord on July 26th. Its name comes from its venue, a 40-year old fish factory. Only 800 tickets are sold each year, and this year it sold out within one hour. In addition to the festival in the factory, there a number of off-venue concerts in the week leading up to the main event starting on July 24th.

A museum dedicated to nonsense

The Art of Being Icelandic ‘The Art of Being Icelandic’ is an exhi­­bition at Reykjavik City Hall that focus­­es on translated Ice­­­­landic literature, held in cooper­­ation with Reykjavik UNESCO City of Literature. Sur­­rounding the literature is Ice­­landic design by Sýrusson Design Company. The movie ‘Heild,’ which captures the raw and magnificent beauty of Iceland, will also be shown at the exhibition.

Open 8 am to 7 pm weekdays and 12 pm to 6 pm on weekends. Until July 27th

Don’t miss the zeolite The ultimate outdoor festival It doesn’t get more Icelandic than Þjóð­hátíð, Iceland’s biggest outdoor festi­­­­val. Every year, thousands of mainland residents make their way to the Westman Islands for a bank holiday weekend of camping, dancing, soci­­­alizing, and music under the blue skies.

It’s an intense three-day weekend that’s worth experiencing at least once. The epitome of Icelandic culture, some might say. August 1st to 4th.

Teigarhorn farm, located about four kilo­­­metres west of Djúpi­­vogur, is world­­­­­-fam­­ous for the crystal­­lized zeolite found on its land. This beautiful mineral forms when volcanic rocks and ash layers react with alkaline ground water.

Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson

See more about what’s on in Iceland at icelandmag.com

“Ísafjörður is part of a municipality known as Ísafjarðar­­bær, which includes the towns of Hnífs­­­­­­dalur, Suðureyri, Flateyri, and Þingeyri, all well worth a visit. The Nonsense Museum in the town of Flateyri showcases private collections of everything imaginable, from teaspoons to sugar cubes.” Recom­mended by Thelma Hjaltadóttir from Ísafjörður.

Designer Andrea Magnúsdóttir and her husband, graphic designer Ólafur Ólason, pose beside the model reindeer they created together.

The reindeer is part of the Reindeer Parade exhibition in Harpa Music Hall.

Reindeer games in Harpa

W

ild Reindeer of Iceland, an extens­­ive exhibition on the Ice­­landic reindeer, opened in Harpa Music Hall on the 20th of June. Included in the exhibition is an install­ation by Gaga­­rín, an Icelandic design company that creates inter­­ active media solutions. The installation allows guests to learn more about the reindeer in a new and interesting way. The exhibition also features a series of photographs

by Carl Johan Utsi, a Saami photographer based in

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Iceland Magazine / vol. #05 2014

Sweden. The Reindeer Parade, another part of this large exhi­­bition, consists of life-size models of reindeer made from fiberglass that have each been decorated in unique ways by selected Icelandic artist.

Tickets to the Wild Reindeer exhibition can be bought on Harpa.is. The exhibition is open Mondays through Fridays between 9 am and 6 pm, and Saturdays and Sun­­days from 10 am until 6 pm.

See more at Harpa.is.

12 Hour Music Marathon If you like alterna­­tive and indie rock music, the back­­­­­yard of KEX Hostel in Reykja­­vík is the place to beon Saturday July 19th. The annual KEXPort music festival kicks off at noon and ends at mid­­night, with twelve bands performing, one every hour.

Performing this year are local bands Ghostigital, Dimma, Kimono, 1860, Reykjavíkur­­dætur, Kött Grá Pjé, Low Roar, Pétur Ben, Dj Flugvél & Geimskip, Atónal blús, Mr. Silla and Sometime.

The festival is held in collabora­­ tion with Seattle radio station KEXP-FM .

Admission is free. Rock on!

See more at kexhostel.is

BEST SELLER BEST SELLER BEST SELLER BEST SELLER BEST SELLER best seller

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COMBO TOURS COMBO COMBO TOURS TOURS GOLDEN CIRCLE GOLDEN CIRCLE GOLDEN CIRCLE & MOUNTAIN FISHING GOLDEN CIRCLE & MOUNTAIN & MOUNTAIN FISHING FISHING & MOUNTAIN FISHING

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Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy

Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy

COMBO TOURS Duration: 6 hours Season: June 1st – September 1st Duration: 6 hours Level: Very Duration: 6easy hours Season: June 1st – September 1st Season: June 1st – September 1st Level: Very6easy Duration: hours Level: Very easy Season: June 1st – September 1st Level: Very easy

MOUNTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE MOUNTAIN FISHING A D V E N T FISHING URE MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE MOUNTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE

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GOLDEN CIRCLE GOLDEN GOLDEN CIRCLE GOLDEN CIRCLE CIRCLE QUA &&MOUNTAIN && MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN FISHING FISHING FISHING &naturalM MOUNTAIN FISHING COMBO TOURS COMBO historical sites and TOURS Price Adults (14+): 32.900 ISK

MOUNTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN FISHING FISHING FISHING NTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE ADVENTURE ADVENTURE NTURE

Duration: 9 hours | Sea

Duration: 9 hours | Sea Duration: 9 hours | Sea

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Departures: takes you over08:00/14 rivers – glacial waterfall Gullfoss, and the geysers Geysir and Strokkur, to name Price Adults (14+): 32.900 ISK Price Children (0–5): Free Price Adults (14+): 43 Departures: 08:00/13:20 (5–14): 16.450 ISK Departures: 08:00/14 This tour is aPrice wonderful comb Departures: Price Children Children (0–5): (5–14):Free 16.450 ISK Departures: Price Adults 08:00/13:20 (14+): 32.900 ISK Price Adults 08:00/14 (14+): 43 Price Adults 08:00/13:20 (14+): 32.900 ISK Price Children (5–14): (0–5): Free Price Adults (14+): 43 Departures: 16.450 ISK Departures: 08:00/14 After your battle with the brow

Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy

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GOLDEN CIRCLE GOLDEN CIRCLE GOLDEN CIRCLE & MOUNTAIN FISHING GOLDEN CIRCLE & MOUNTAIN FISHING & MOUNTAIN FISHING Included in the Mountain Fishing Adventure & the Combo Tours: & MOUNTAIN FISHING • Pick-up from Reykjavik • High quality fishing rods

Price Children (0–5): Free

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Traditional waterproof Note: Traditional Note: Traditional waterproof waterproof outdoor outdoor Departures: Price 08:00/14:00 Children 08:00/14:00 (5–14): Price 16.900 Children Price ISK Children (5–14):(5–14): 16.90016.900 ISK Departure ISK Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st –Note: September 1st | Level: Very easyoutdoor Duration: 9 hours08:00/14:00 | Season: Departures: June 1stDepartures: – September 1st | Level: Challenging Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level:isVery easy 9 hours(14+): | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Challenging clothing recommended clothingclothing is recommended is Duration: recommended Price Adults 33.800 Price ISK Adults Price Price Adults (14+): Children (14+): 33.800 33.800 (0–5): ISK Free Price ISK Children Price Children (0–5): Free (0–5): Free Price Adu This tour is a wonderful combination of mountain fishing and the famous Golden Circle.

• Transport and guidance • Fishing permits • Fishing assistance Duration: 6 hours Season: June 1st – September 1st Duration: 6 hours Level: Very Season: June 1st – September 1st Duration: 6easy hours Level: Very easy Season: June 1st – September 1st Duration: 6 hours Level: Very easy Season: June 1st – September 1st Level: Very easy

Duration: hours | Season: June 1st –you September 1st | Level:toVery easy After your 10 battle with the brown trout, will be introduced some of the best known

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Price Adults 08:00/13:20 (14+): 32.900 ISK Price Children (0–5): Departures: (5–14):Free 16.450 ISK Note: Traditional(5–14): waterproof Departures: 16.450 ISKoutdoor Price Adults 08:00/13:20 (14+): 32.900 ISK Price Children (0–5): Free Price Adults 08:00/13:20 (14+): 32.900 ISK Price Price Children Children (0–5):isFree clothing recommended Departures: (5–14): 16.450 ISK

MOUNTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE MOUNTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE MOUNTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE

MOUNTAIN FISHING ADVENTURE

Included in the Mountain Fishing Adventure & the Combo Tours: • Pick-upinfrom • HighAdventure quality fishing rods Included theReykjavik Mountain Fishing & the Combo Tours: Included infrom theReykjavik Mountain Adventure &grilled the Combo Tours: • Pick-up Transport and guidance Fishing • High Organic, natural meal and drinks quality fishing rods • Pick-up from Reykjavik • High quality fishing rods Fishing permits Drop of at hotel in Reykjavik Transport and guidance Organic, natural grilled meal and drinks Included in the Mountain Fishing Adventure & the Combo Tours: Transport andReykjavik guidance •• Drop Organic, assistance permits of atnatural hotel ingrilled Reykjavik •• Fishing Pick-up from High quality fishing rodsmeal and drinks permits Drop of atnatural hotel ingrilled Reykjavik assistance •• Fishing Transport and guidance •• Organic, meal and drinks • Fishing assistance • Fishing permits • Drop of at hotel in Reykjavik

COMBO TOURS Price Adults (14+): 32.900 ISK COMBO TOURS COMBO TOURS COMBO TOURS

Price Children (0–5): Free

HORSE RIDING HORSE RIDING HORSE RIDINGFISHING & MOUNTAIN HORSE RIDINGFISHING & MOUNTAIN & MOUNTAIN FISHING & MOUNTAIN FISHING Duration: 9 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Easy

dingatjörn as well

Duration: 9 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Easy Duration: 9 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Easy

Note: Traditional waterproof outdoor clothing is recommended Note: Traditional waterproof outdoor Note: Traditional waterproof outdoor clothing is recommended clothing is recommended Note: Traditional waterproof outdoor

fishpartner

clothing is recommended

Note:

COMBO TOURS Price Adults (14+): 43.800 ISK COMBO TOURS COMBO TOURS COMBO TOURS

Duration: 9 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Easy

SUPER JEEP SAFARI SUPER JEEP SAFARI SUPER JEEP SAFARI MOUNTAIN FISHING This tour is a & great trip for all those interested in trying the Icelandic horse! A trek on the SUPER JEEP SAFARI & MOUNTAIN FISHING & MOUNTAIN hardy, sure-footed Icelandic horse is anFISHING experience to remember. Whether you are a & MOUNTAIN beginner or expert, these friendly horsesFISHING with their alert and willing nature are indeed a Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy

This tour is a great trip for all those interested in trying the Icelandic horse! A trek on the After the mountain fishing adventure, you will be whisked away in a super jeep towards Duration: 9 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Easy Duration: 10 hours | Season: June 1st – September 1st | Level: Very easy hardy, sure-footed Icelandic horse interested is an experience Whether youon arethea the volcano Hengill.fishing The super jeep safari includes hiking,away exoticinbathing geothermal After mountain adventure, you will be whisked a superinjeep towards This tour is a great trip for all those in tryingtotheremember.

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A trek pleasure to ride inthe their natural surroundings.

This tour is a great trip for all those interested in trying the Icelandic horse!

A trek on the Aftervolcano the adventure, you be whisked a super jeep towards beginner or expert, Icelandic these friendly their alert willing nature areyou indeed river, andmountain a Hengill. visit tofishing a cave where willwill explore a rareaway worldinbathing of lava in tubes.

A truly the The super jeep we safari includes hiking, exotic geothermal hardy, sure-footed horsehorses is an with experience to and remember.

Whether are a hardy, sure-footed Icelandic horse is an experience to remember.

Whether you are a the volcano Hengill.

The super jeep safari includes hiking, exotic bathing in geothermal pleasure to ride in their natural surroundings. magical day! river, and a visit to a cave where we will explore a rare world of lava tubes.

A truly beginner or expert, these friendly horses with their alert and willing nature are indeed a This tour is a great trip for all those interested in trying the Icelandic horse! A trek on the After the mountain fishing adventure, you will be whisked away in a super jeep towards beginner or ride expert, thesenatural friendly horses their alert willing nature areyou indeed river,volcano andday! a Hengill. visit to The a cave where willincludes explorehiking, a rare exotic world bathing of lava in tubes.

A truly magical pleasure to in their surroundings. hardy, sure-footed Icelandic horse is an with experience to and remember.

Whether are aa the super jeep we safari geothermal pleasure to in their surroundings. magical beginner or ride expert, thesenatural friendly horses with their alert and willing nature are indeed a river, andday! a visit to a cave where we will explore a rare world of lava tubes. A truly Traditional waterproof outdoor Departures: 08:00/14:00 Price Children (5–14): 44.900 ISK 16.900 ISK Departures: 08:00/14:00 Price Children (5–14): 16.900 ISK Departures: 08:00/14:00 Price Children (5–14): pleasure to ride in their natural surroundings. magical day!

Price Adults 08:00/14:00 (14+): 56.900 ISK Price Children (5–14): 44.900 ISK Price Adults 08:00/14:00 (14+): 33.800 ISK Price Children (0–5): Free Departures: 16.900 ISK clothing is recommended (5–14): Price Adults Departures: (14+): 33.800 ISK Price Children (0–5): Free Departures: (5–14):Free 16.900 ISK Departures: Price Adults 08:00/14:00 (14+): 56.900 ISK Price Children (5–14): 44.900 ISK Price Adults 08:00/14:00 (14+): 33.800 ISK Price Children (0–5): Price Adults (14+): 33.800 ISK Price Children (0–5): Free Price Adults (14+): 56.900 ISK Price Children (5–14): 44.900 ISK Departures: 08:00/14:00 Price Children (5–14): 16.900 ISK Departures: 08:00/14:00 Price Adults (14+): 33.800 ISK

Price Children (0–5): Free

a

clothing isruns recommended This exciting combines theroute tranquil mountain fishing experience with The the Price more the mountains Mosfell and Esja, then to the Helgufoss waterfall back. drive Adults (14+): 33.800 I action packedtour quads tour.

The along Æsustaðafjall andand to Þverdal beginner or expert, these friendly horses with their alertbetween and willing nature are indeed a action packed quads route runs along Æsustaðafjall andand to Þverdal between takes you overtour rivers –tour. within the established jeep track –waterfall inexperience a unique environment. the mountains Mosfell andThe Esja, then to the Helgufoss back. drive This exciting combines the tranquil mountain fishing with The the more pleasure to ride in their natural surroundings. the mountains Mosfell and Esja, then to the Helgufoss waterfall and back.

The drive takes you over quads rivers –tour. within established jeep track – in a and unique environment. action packed Thethe route runs along Æsustaðafjall to Þverdal between takes you over rivers – within the established jeep track – in a unique environment. the mountains Mosfell and Esja, then to the Helgufoss waterfall and back. The drive Departures: 08:00/14:00 Price Children (5–14): 31.900 ISK takes you over rivers – within the established jeep track – in a unique environment.

Price Adults 08:00/14:00 (14+): 43.800 ISK Departures: Price Children (5–14): 31.900 ISK 08:00/14:00 Price Children Departures: Price Children (5–14): 31.900 ISK(5–14): 16.900 ISK PriceDepartures: Adults 08:00/14:00 (14+): 43.800 ISK PricePrice AdultsAdults (14+): 43.800 ISK 33.800 (14+): Price Children Departures: 08:00/14:00 PriceISK Children (5–14): 31.900 ISK(0–5): Free

HORSE RIDING & MOUNTAIN FISHING

• Fishing assistance

dingatjörn ture our 0. or oneasofwell ture or oneasofwell our dingatjörn dingatjörn as well ture or one of our

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waterproof outdoor Departures: 08:00/14:00 Duration: 9Note: hours |Traditional Season: Juneroute 1st –runs September 1st | Level: Challenging actionhardy, packed quads tour. The along Æsustaðafjall and to Þverdal between This exciting tour combines the tranquil mountain fishing experience withtothe more sure-footed Icelandic horse is an experience remember.

Whether you are

Price Adults (14+): 56.900 ISK

I Dalvegi 16b I 201 Kópavogur Iceland I Tel: +354 5714545 I www.fishpartner.com I

info@fishpartner.com

Lookout highlights ahead

Visit Eyjafjallajökull’s next door neighbours

Þ

Fire and ice Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010, the ash disrupted many flights around the world. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

orvaldseyri Visitor Centre was opened in April 2011, exactly a year after the now-infa­­­mous eruption of the Eyjafjalla­­­jökull volcano in South Iceland. The Þorvalds­­eyri farm is located near the base of the volcano, and its residents have now transformed part of the farm into an informative visitors centre dedicated to the volcano.

The exhibition includes a twenty-minute-long documentary about the 2010 eruption, shown in a small auditorium that seats up to fifty people.

The eruption in 2010 was a relatively small one, but managed to disrupt air travel across a large part of Europe during its course. It also caused massive problems for local farmers who faced difficulties farming and grazing livestock due to the thick layer of ash that fell on their land.

Eyja­­fjallajökull is a small ice cap which covers the caldera of a volcano, 1.666 metres (5,466 ft) high.

The volcano has erupted frequently since the last Ice Age with noted eruptions occurring in the years 920, 1612, and intermittently from 1821 to 1823.

Þorvaldseyri | 861 Hvolsvöllur Opening hours: May 15 – May 31: daily from 10 am until 5 pmJune 1 – August 31: daily from 9 amuntil 6 pm September 1 – September 15: daily from 10 am – 5 pm Closed from September 16 until May 14. www.icelanderupts.is

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788

16

I

Iceland Magazine / vol. #05 2014

• Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is

E&Co.

ICELANDIC WOOL

WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES We offer clot h i n g & ot her mer c h a nd i s e t h at r em i nd s u s of go o d old Ic el a nd

– Visit our stores: 101 Reykjavík, Akureyri and Haukadal. www.geysir.com –

– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G eysi r, Hau k ada l. w w w.geysi r.com –

Iceland Mag / vol. #05 2014

I

17

To question the system

Iceland’s Modern Families Now that I have been living in Iceland for several weeks, my first impressions are starting to grow into more substantiated observations. At this point in my European journey, I have col­lect­­ed a sufficient sample size to confirm the behavioral inter­­­pretations I have begun to conclude about Icelandic society.

O

ne peculiar characteristic of the Ice­­ landic ethos, which did not align with my expectations, is the unique family structure that seems to work for this well-adjusted culture. Two facts emerge (and I’m not sure if or how they are related): 70% of all Icelandic bab­­ies are born out of wedlock, and Iceland is home to one of the highest divorce rates in the world.

To operate a society When I saw these statistics, it really changed my perception of how a society can function. Icelanders are such a well-adjust­­ ed, polite, stable group of people, and all of my pre­­con­­ceived, American principles of how to raise a family have been chall­­ enged. Not to mention the fact that Iceland, as well as the rest of the Scandinavian countries, are consistently ranked as the happiest people in the world. Just walking around the city of Reykjavik, I notice a significant number of young men and women who already have one or two kids. It surprises me that such young couples are capable of raising a child, when they are not far from being children themselves.

While I might not understand the Scandinavian model for family structure, you can´t argue with the results it has pro­­duced.

In the United States, the traditional order of events in family life is as follows: save up money, get engaged, get married, and then have kids. I have never really questioned this syst­­ em; it just seemed like the most stable way to raise a family. I am by no means saying that American family life is perfect.

Far from it. In fact, 50% of American marriages end in divorce. However, waiting an extra five years to get marri­­ed and have kids seems like a more reliable way to mitigate the financial risk and immaturity that young, unmarr­­­ied men and women typically possess.

Why does this work?

So if I had to guess why the Icelandic family system works so well for this Nordic society, I would point out 3 key char­­act­­ eristics that define Icelandic culture: 1. Financial Stability: 97% of Icelanders identify them­­ selves as upper-middle class, lower-middle class, or working class. Thus, the financial equality found in this culture allows for a more stable society in which to raise a kid. Additionally, higher education is essentially free, so the cost of raising a child is much cheaper in Iceland.

If a couple has a kid and decid­­es to get di­­ vorc­­ed or break up, it is easy for both par­­ ents to re­­ main in the child’s life due to the popu­­lation con­­centra­­ tion of Ice­­­ land’s main city

2. Geographic Convenience: If a couple has a kid and decides to get divorced or break up, it is easy for both parents to remain in the child’s life due to the popu­­ lation concentration of Iceland’s main city. The Reykja­­vik area is home to 66% of the country’s popu­­ lation. It’s convenient to keep a family connected, regard­­less of the parents’ decision to stay together.

3. Family Support: Younger couples who have kids also have the financial support of their own parents. Addi­­­ tionally, most young families live in the same neigh­­­ borhood as their parents, creating a strong support syst­­ em to raise the newborn child. In Iceland, it is the entire community’s responsibility to help raise the child. ​

Among the happiest Since Iceland is ranked among the happiest countries in the world, you can´t argue with the results of its unique family struct­­ ure. Having children out of wedlock is often frowned upon in the United States, but Iceland is home to a society where num­­ erous unmarried young couples have kids.

Despite the great number of single parents and the high divorce rate, Iceland has created a crime-free, middle-class society that effectively raises its younger citizens to become functioning, law-abi­­ ding citizens.

Icelandic society 70 percentage of all babies are born put of wedlock. Photo/Stefán Karlsson

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In his regular column for Iceland Magazine, Matt chronicles his first impressions of the country, its people and traditions.

See more of Matt’s columns at icelandmag.com

Go home witthh a story wor sharing!

Open everyday from 8am-10pm

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Kayaking

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Lookout The interview

Old School

Rest up in a beautiful old boarding school situated on a geothermal spot in the south of Iceland. Laugarvatn is a small village located on the shores of a scenic lake, midway between Þingvellir National Park and Gullfoss waterfall. On arrival, one of the first things you will notice is a stately, green and yellow building, with a gabled roof reminiscent of the old, Icelandic turf farms.

This is Héraðsskólinn hotel.

Text by Sara McMahon Photo by Óðinn Þór Kjartansson

A Nobel laureate’s typewriter and old school desks.

The name, Héraðsskólinn, means district school. The building was designed in 1928 as a boarding school by State Architect Guðjón Samúelsson (who also designed the National Theatre and Hall­­­grímskirkja church in Reykjavík). This grand, old building proudly bears the marks of its past: old educational posters and class photo­­­graphs dating back to the early ‘30’s decorate the walls, while the dining room is furnished with school desks from the fifties.

Guðjón’s old desk and chair are found in Sverr­­ir’s office. In another corner of the room sits an old typewriter that once belonged to Halldór Lax­­­ness, the Icelandic Nobel laureate.

At lake Laugarvatn. A popular summer resort among the nation.

T

he hotel opened last summer and is run by two friends, Sverrir Steinn Sverrisson and Sveinn Pálsson. It is somewhat of a family affair be­­cause Sverrir’s girlfriend, architect Eyrún Stefáns­­­dóttir, redesigned the building’s interior.

“We kept most of the old furniture and the old school bell, which we now use to ring in dinner and the Northern Lights,” Sverrir explains. He tells us that he has a personal connection to the place—his maternal grandparents were among the school’s first students.

The rooms are spacious and white, furnished with unique, antique pieces. Héraðsskólinn offers everything from standard double rooms to larger family rooms.

They also offer a cheaper alterna­­tive in the form of a shared dorm room with access to a kitchen and a common room.

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Hikes, geothermal baths, and good restaurants “It’s a beautiful hike up Hlöðufell moun­ tain, and Brúarár­ foss water­­fall is also worth a visit.

We have geothermal baths by the lake, love­ly little cafés and restaurants, and horse rentals, so there’s lots to do.”

See more at www.heradsskolinn.is

Laugarvatn has long been a centre for education as well as a popular summer resort among Icelanders due to the geothermal baths. Today its population is around 250 people. However, the number of inhabitants doubles in the autumn when students arrive to study at Laugarvatn Grammar School and the National University’s Department of Physical Education.

There is much to see and do both in Laugarvatn and its vicinity and Sverrir recommends people spend more than a day in the area.

“It’s a beautiful hike up Hlöðufell mountain, and Brúarárfoss waterfall is also worth a visit. We have geothermal baths by the lake, lovely little cafés and restaurants, and horse rentals, so there’s lots to do. Of course, we’ll assist you in any way we can when it comes to planning your stay in Laugarvatn.”

Héraðsskólinn Hotelier Sverrir Steinn Sverrisson. The building was designed in 1928 as a boarding school and proudly bears the marks of its past. Old educational posters and class photographs dating back to the early ‘30’s decorate the walls and the dining room is furnished with school desks from the fifties.

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Lookout

Handle With Care

The roads in Iceland’s central highlands can be difficult to handle and off-road driving is strictly forbidden.

In brief

Photos/Vilhelm Gunnarssons.

Large quantities of snow from last winter created adverse conditions for driving in Iceland’s central highlands in the beginning of this summer. The lingering snow made some highlands roads unsafe for driving and wet conditions make the unpaved, gravel and mud surfaces vulnerable for traffic.

Almost all of the central highland roads are now open but conditions in some parts remain precarious.

According to the The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration some drivers have tried to avoid puddles by driving outside designated drive areas. This is strictly illegal as driving off road can damage delicate land.

If you who are heading to the interior, please handle the area with care and respect.

Difficult conditions Puddles can make the unpaved, gravel and mud surfaces of the central highland’s roads precarious. Please drive safely!

-To track the availability of Iceland’s roads go to The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration website at vegagerdin.is - Good advise about driving and travel in general in Iceland can be found at safetravel.is and at Icelandmag.com

Village walks

A fun and a rather easy walk in a charming village.

A local person will be your guide who will give you insight into daily life. In each tour we visit a local home/person and get some refreshments. A great way to get to know Icelandic culture and how Icelanders live in the eastern most part of Iceland.

Come as a stranger, leave as a friend!

Tanni Travel

Strandgata 14, 735 Eskifjörður tannitravel@tannitravel.is | www.tannitravel.is Tel. +354 476-1399

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Book your tours and recreation on:

Lookout Akureyri

History & Home Baking

The old family home was transformed into a coffee shop and a restaurant.

Kaffi Ilmur is located in Hafnarstræti 107b, Akureyri.

The owners. Þórhildur Þórhallsdóttir and Ingibjörg Baldursdóttir own and run Kaffi Ilmur, a charming little café and restaurant located in Akureyri, North Iceland.

Photos/Ingibjörg Baldursdóttir

O

ur grandparents built the house over a century ago. Over the years it became old and tired, and when time came to renovate it we decided to transform it into a café,” says Ingibjörg Baldursdóttir, who runs Kaffi Ilmur with her sister Helga and a third partner, Þórhildur Þórhallsdóttir.

The café, which opened in May 2012, is located in a quaint little yellow building in Hafnarstræti street in Akureyri, North Iceland. On the first floor, the trio runs a small coffee shop, which serves excellent coffee and delicious home-baked cakes. The second floor houses a restaurant with a stunning view over the beautiful Eyjafjörður fjord.

When the house was renovated, many of its charming old features were kept or given a new function. The old linoleum that used to cover the floors now covers table tops, and the original wall paneling is still in place.

The owners strive to create a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere for their guests, and Ingibjörg enjoys telling stories to interested guests about the house’s former inhabitants and life in Akureyri back in the 1920’s. -SM

A stunning view. Kaffi Ilmur, which translates as Café Aroma, is located in a quaint little yellow house that was built by the owner’s grandparents.

Akranes

“The lost pearl of restaurants near Reykjavík”.

Galito restaurant offers a family friendly menu in a cozy environment. our mission is to use fresh ingredients and we offer everything from pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches and vegegatrian food to fine dining. www.galito.is Stillholt 16-18, Akranes Phone: +354 430 6767 24

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Skinnsemi

It’s not all about

sex

Iceland’s only circus has an adult section where sensuality and laughter go hand-in-hand.

Sirkús Ísland is on the road for the very first time this summer.

Words by Agnes Valdimarsdóttir Photos by Spessi

Has anyone seen my glitter underwear?” As soon as I walked into the Jökla Circus Tent at Klambratún in Reykja­­vik, a girl wearing a limited amount of cloth­­ing and shiny red knee-high boots came down from a rope, quite seriously asking her fellow circus members if they’d seen her glitter underwear. I’m obviously in the right place!

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From New York to Reykjavik Skinnsemi (a play on the words ‘skin’ and ‘reasonable’) is the adult section of Sirkús Íslands, Iceland’s only circus, and for the first time this summer, Iceland’s only traveling circus. The variety show was created by a former TV presenter, Margrét Erla Maack, now a Circus Queen. Margrét had gone to New York back in 2007, where she learned belly dancing. In New York, she befriended comedian Reggie Watts, who got her a gig at a club called The Box, where she

Ragnheiður Maísól Sturludóttir (31) Previous job: Staff at a community youth center.

Current title: Mother in the Circus Why Circus: Attended Clown College in Copenhagen. Came back to Iceland and started rehearsing with Sirkús Íslands, but it wasn’t really working out.

When Skinnsemi started, my best friend Margrét contacted me, and I decided to jump on the chance to be able to use my inner clown.

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Skinnsemi

Daniel Hauksson (24) Previous job: An eclectic mix of uninteresting jobs.

Current title: Juggler, Principal of the Circus School. (300 kids enrolled this summer).

Why did you join the Circus? Sounded fun.

Started by going to a handstand class with Lee, and then I never stopped.

used to belly dance between acts. “It was there where I first discovered this concept of an adult circus,” Margrét says, “but this was before Sirkús Íslands was even established”.

In the fall of 2007, Margrét came home to Iceland and saw advertisements for handstand classes at the art and dance studio Kramhúsið.

That’s where she met Lee Nelson, an Austra­­ lian national, and the founder of Sirkús Íslands.

The handstand classes were, essentially, the beginning of Sirkús Íslands, and later on, Skinn­­semi was added.

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Is this going to work?

The first Skinnsemi show was in 2011 at a club that was then called Bakkus. It was in a tiny back room, which added to the mystique of the show, and it was packed.

What The Box in New York had and what was missing in Reykjavik, was a place or a club that had enough ceiling height for performing acrobatics. This was a slight problem, but in 2011, a burlesque dancer and a friend of Lee’s from Texas contacted Lee and wanted to get “the skinny” on the burlesque scene in Iceland.

There was none. It was at that point that Lee called Margrét, and she decided that they’d have to do a show. They had a month to get ready. The first Skinnsemi show was in 2011 at a club that was then called Bakkus. It was in a tiny back room, which added to the mystique of the show, and it was packed. More people than the space would allow were interested in coming. After a successful first

Skinnsemi

Margrét Erla Maack (30) Previous job: TV personality.

Current title: Circus Queen Why Skinnsemi: It’s unique and a constant surprise.

Most memorable: When you’re wearing a limited amount of clothing doing circus acts, awkward becomes a way of life. I mean, I’ve had my butt in the audience’s face and farted.

show, Skinnsemi Adult Circus was alive and kicking, but it wasn’t until the summer of 2013 that a Circus Festival was held in Reykjavík, and Sirkús Íslands along with Skinnsemi performed in a real circus tent. The decision was made: If Sirkús Íslands buys a real tent; Skinnsemi will be a part of all future Sirkús Íslands events.

An adult twist to a kid’s show “What’s fun and challenging is taking a skit from a kid’s show and spicing it up a little bit

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“What’s fun and challenging is taking a skit from a kid’s show and spicing it up a little bit so that it’s funny or shocking to adults,” says Margrét.

so that it’s funny or shocking to adults,” says Margrét. “While we’re not doing much burlesque, we’re taking elements from burlesque and using them in our shows. Often we’re doing a skit for a children’s show, and we get ideas on how it’d be funny to do it in certain ways, but those ways may not be appropriate for children.

That’s why Skinn­­semi works so well—we get to play around and be silly for a living.” A large part of Skinn­semi’s operation includes doing private corpo­­­rate shows, and they’ve recently per­­form­­ed in the circus tent at a CEO’s 40th birthday party.

“It’s not all about sex either,” says Margrét, “but sometimes jokes go over children’s heads but appeal to adults. In our show we’ve got a Beyonce skit and a Wrecking Ball skit, that yes, children would

Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley.

The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér!

Léttöl

Skinnsemi

Axel Diego (27) Previous job: Student at University of Iceland, bartender, sushi chef.

Why Sirkús? I started rehearsing with the Circus because I wanted to do something after I finished school, and before I knew it, I was here full-time.

Current title: Unicycle Freak Most memorable: Most awkward was probably when I stood on stage creating a painting with my penis. It was both awkward and fun. I realized I’d been mooning the whole audience quite actively the whole time… perhaps the reason my artwork didn’t sell at that show.

recognize the songs, but the jokes that go along with it are geared tow­­ards an audience with a deeper under­­stand­­ing.”

“We’re Iceland’s only variety show,” says Margrét, but mentions that when she tells people who are not from Iceland, they look at her quite doubtfully.

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A traveling circus “We’re Iceland’s only variety show,” says Margrét, but mentions that when she tells people who are not from Iceland, they look at her quite doubtfully. It doesn’t help her case much when other Icelanders are asked if it’s true, and they’ve never heard of Skinnsemi. That should change this summer, however, when Skinnsemi, along with Sirkús Íslands, travels the country, pitch­­­ing their 800 sq.m. (8,600 sq.ft) tent in five different cities/towns, beginning and ending in Reykjavik. And the best thing about a circus? “You don’t need to speak Icelandic to enjoy the show, that’s the beauty of a circus show,” says Margrét, before she rushes off to get undressed, as the premiere of Skinnsemi is about to hit the stage.

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From industry to

culture

Up until recently, the Grandi harbour area was limited to anything “fishy.”

However, over the past couple of years, the area has evolved into a fantastic conglomeration of restaurants, shops, museums, and IT businesses, as well as fishing boats and baiting huts.

Words by Sara McMahon

Grandi is literally teeming with life.

There are small fishing boats regularly coming in to harbour to land their catch; and then there´s the dry dock where bigger trawlers are being repaired. The scenery isn´t half bad either—there´s the panoramic view out over Faxaflói bay and Mount Esja rises majestically in the distance. The invigorating smell of the sea, the views, eateries, boutiques, cultural activities, and the hustle and bustle of this fashionable part of town make it an ideal place for a leisurely stroll.

Here’s Iceland Magazine’s guide to the Grandi area.

1

Coocoo’s Nest (Grandagarður 23).

2

Kaffivagninn (Grandagarður 10).

3

Valdís (Grandagarður 21).

4

Café Retró (Grandagarður 14).

5

Búrið Delicatessen (Grandagarður 35).

6

Víkin Maritime Museum (Grandagarður 8).

Saga Museum (Grandagarður 2).

9

Kría cycles (Grandagarður 7).

10

Hús fiðrildanna (Hólmaslóð 4).

Farmers Market (Hólmaslóð 2).

STEINUNN (Grandagarður 17).

13

Ellingsen (Fiskislóð 1).

14

Bónus (Fiskislóð 2).

15

Krónan (Fiskislóð 15).

16

Nettó (Fiskislóð 3).

17

Þúfan/The Hillock (Western-most point of Reykjavík harbour).

See also page 36-38

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Aurora Reykjavík – Northern Lights Centre (Grandagarður 2).

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Grandi harbour area

There are small fishing boats regularly coming in to harbour to land their catch; and then there´s the dry dock where bigger trawlers are being repaired.

Restaurants

1 Coocoo’s Nest (Grandagarður 23).

A small family­­-run business that opened last year and offers a lovely selection of dishes for brunch, lunch, and dinner. The restaurant has become known for their sourdough pizzas and friendly atmosphere. They also serve organic coffee and “aperativo,” which is the Italian equivalent to happy hour.

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2 Kaffivagninn (Grandagarður 10) This small and unpretentious café probably has one of the best views in all of Reykjavík. The café was founded in 1983 and catered to fishermen who’d drop by for coffee before, during, and after work hours. Recently, husband and wife Guðmundur Viðarsson and Mjöll Daníelsdóttir bought the coffee shop and offer a simple breakfast and lunch menu.

Open: Mon—Fri: 8 am – 6 pm Sat—Sun: 10 am – 8 pm

3 Valdís (Grandagarður 21) This wildly popular ice cream parlour is located in one of the old baiting sheds by the harbour. Gylfi Valdimarsson, a chef who lived in Denmark for a decade, serves homemade Italian-inspired gelato and sorbet in freshly baked ice cream cones. The parlour was an instant hit—and understandably so! The ice cream is ridiculously tasty! However, be prepared to queue for your treat because Gylfi’s ice cream truly does bring the boys, and everybody else, to the yard.

Open: Mon—Sun: 11 am – 11:30 pm

4 Café Retró (Grandagarður 14) This is a typical Icelandic café. Its interior is very straightforward, and the menu consists of homemade cakes, sandwiches, and soups.

Café Retro also serves excellent coffee, and out front is a marvelous veranda with a fantastic view of the harbour.

Grandi harbour area

The old baiting huts The Grandi area has evolved into a fantastic conglomeration of baiting huts, museums and reastaurants.

Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

Museums

5 Búrið Delicatessen (Grandagarður 35) This quirky cheese shop offers the best in cheese from around the world, along with a great selection of jams, cured meats, olives, chutneys, and other tasty nibbles.

Open: Mon—Fri: 11 am – 6 pm Sat: 11 am – 5 pm

6 Víkin Maritime Museum (Grandagarður 8) Icelanders have long depended on fishing for survival, and as a result, the country has a long and interesting maritime history. The Reykjavík Maritime Museum gives excellent insight into this history. The main exhibition showcases the development of the fishing industry from the use of rowboats to modern trawlers, as well as the construction of Reykjavík harbour. The old Coast Guard ship, Óðinn, is also part of the museum.

Open: September 16th—May 31st. Daily from 11 am – 5 pm June 1st—September 15th. Daily from 10 am – 5 pm

7 Aurora Reykjavík – Northern Lights Centre (Grandagarður 2) This is a fairly new museum which, as the name suggests, revolves around the magnificent Aurora Borealis.

The latest advances in multimedia technology are used to bring the brilliant Northern Lights to life. For anyone who didn’t catch a glimpse of the real Northern Lights, this is without a doubt the next best thing.

Open: daily from 9 am – 9 pm

8 Saga Museum (Grandagarður 2) The waxworks museum portrays Iceland’s Viking history – all the gory details of it.

Open daily from 10 am – 6 pm

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Places of interest

9

Kría cycles (Grandagarður 7) Kría was the first workshop in town that custom built bikes for bike enthusiasts. The two owners (a Brit and an Icelander) live and breathe the sport. Anyone cycling around Reykjavík or Iceland is advised to drop by, grab a coffee, and gather some local expertise on interesting biking routes.

10 Hús fiðrildanna (Hólmaslóð 4) This small boutique carries retro furniture and knick-knacks. It’s a lovely little place to browse around in.

Open: Mon—Fri: 1 pm – 6 pm Sat: 1 pm – 5 pm

11 Farmers Market (Hólmaslóð 2) This is the flagship store of the Icelandic fashion brand Farmers

Market. Located in what used to be an old fish factory, the store is a world of its own. The brand was founded in 2005 by designer Bergþóra Guðnadóttir and musician Jóel Pálsson. The idea was to produce a collection made from organic and recycled fabrics with references to the brand’s Nordic roots.

Open: Mon—Fri: 10 am – 6 pm Sat: 11 am – 4 pm 12 STEINUNN (Grandagarður 17) This is designer Steinunn Sigurðardóttir’s boutique and workshop. Steinunn worked for fashion brands such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Gucci for many years before founding her own label, STEiNUNN, in 2000.

Designer Calvin Klein has described Steinunn as one of the most talented designers he has had the pleasure to work with.

This is Icelandic design at its best, so be sure to pop into her workshop when in the area.

Open: Mon—Fri: 11 am – 6 pm First two Saturdays of each month from 1 pm – 4 pm, and by appointment.

Shops 13 Ellingsen (Fiskislóð 1) The store was founded in 1916 and sells outdoor gear and equipment such as tents, fishing rods, hiking boots, and clothing.

Open: Mon—Fri: 10 am – 6 pm

14 Bónus (Fiskislóð 2) A chain of low price grocery stores, easily recognisable by its logo: The pink pig with a black eye. This is the best place to shop when on a tight budget.

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RESTAURANT

15 Krónan (Fiskislóð 15) This is another low price grocery store. It is more spacious than Bónus, but also a bit pricier.

Open: Mon—Sun: 10 am – 8 pm

16 Nettó (Fiskislóð 3). A handy grocery store open 24/7—good in case of emergencies.

17 Þúfan/The Hillock (Western-most point of Reykjavík harbour). This eco-friendly sculpture is the work of artist Ólöf Nordal. It resembles a small hillock and is 8 metres (26 feet) high. A narrow stone path will lead visitors to the top of the hillock where the view across Faxaflói bay is nothing less than breathtaking.

Welcome to the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes

SAGA EXHIBITIONS

Open: Mon—Thurs: 11 am – 6:30 pm Friday: 10 am – 7:30 pm Sat: 10 am – 6 pm Sun: 12 pm – 6 pm

GIFT SHOP

Brákarbraut 13-15 310 Borgarnes

Tel. 437 1600 www.landnamssetur.is

SMART GUIDE

Experience real Icelandic cuisine

Bankastræti 2, 101 Reykjavík Tel: (+354) 551 4430 info@laekjarbrekka.is www.laekjarbrekka.is

Let’s be friends!

/laekjarbrekka

vurl.is/i

Southern comfort South Iceland is home to the renowned Golden Circle tour, consisting of Gullfoss waterfall, the Geysir geo­­­thermal area, and Þingvellir national park. Those destinations never cease to amaze, but they are only a fraction of the travel oppor­ tunities that are more diverse in the south than in any other part of the country.

Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson

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behind the waterfall The picturesque Seljalandsfoss waterfall is a popular tourist attraction in South Iceland, located east of Hvols­ völlur and a mere five-minute detour from Route 1.

What is unique about Seljalandsfoss is that you can walk behind it, which gives you a completely new perspective on waterfalls. A small, winding, slippery trail leads visitors behind the waterfall, where the immense power of the water crashing down can truly be felt. Being surrounded by mossy cliffs and the mist from the waterfall makes it a magical experience. Be sure to wear a raincoat when visiting Seljalandsfoss, because you will definitely get wet.

And tread cautiously, since the paths are wet and can be slippery.

Across from Seljalandsfoss, the Markarfljót river delta can be seen extending out into the North Atlantic. The glacial river arises in the Rauðafossfjöll mountains, east of the volcano Hekla, and is roughly 100 kilometres (62 miles) long.

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Mt Hekla One of Iceland’s most active volcanoes.

Gateway to Hell In the Middle Ages, Europeans believed that Hekla, one of Iceland’s most active vol­­­canoes, was the gateway to Hell.

The eruptions are difficult to predict, but the general correlation is this: the longer Hekla remains dormant, the larger and more catastrophic its next eruption will be. The most recent Hekla eruption was in 2000, but the volcano has erupted between twenty and thirty times since 1104. In spite of that, Hekla is a popular destination for hiking, and there’s a path that goes most of the way to the summit.

If you visit in the spring, keep in mind that legend has it that witches gather on Hekla at Easter.

Owning a volcano crater

Kerið Is close to Selfoss town.

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A number of years ago, the State held an auction and a group of friends can now proudly tell whomever will listen that they own a volcano!

Kerið is a volcanic crater and, more often than not, it’s included as a stop on the Golden Circle Tour. As it is privately owned, a small cover charge to visit Kerið is collected. The legal grounds for charging visitors is currently disputed, however, so you can try your luck and refuse to pay the fee.

Restaurant Hotel Örk

We welcome you to our restaurant where the whole family can find quality food and service at a reasonable price.

Open daily from 6 pm.

our Happy h r at the ba m daily fro ! m 4–6p

Breiðumörk 1c, 810 Hveragerði - info@hotelork.is - tel.: +354 483 4700 www.hotelork.is

Gullfoss waterfall The most magnificent thing is how close you can get to it during the summer months.

Three key destinations of the Golden Circle

Þingvellir National Park

I. Þingvellir national park is special for a variety of reasons. One of them is that in 930, the first Parliament was establis­hed at Þingvellir, and it remained there until 1798. The founding of Parliament was the founding of the nation of Iceland, which laid the ground for a common cultural heritage and national identity. So it is perhaps not too surprising that the Prime Minister of Iceland has a cottage at Thingvellir—for one must remember the past in order to help design the future.

Another interesting fact about Þingvellir national park is that it is located just between the European and North American tectonic plates. You can even see the rift in the vertical canyon at Þingvellir, called Almannagjá. And if you are scubacerti­f ied, you can scuba at Silfra fissure—perhaps your only chance to be able to touch Europe and North America at the same time. Keep in mind that the plates drift apart about 2 centimetres a year.

II. Gullfoss waterfall is a very popular tourist attraction, and perhaps the most magnificent thing about the fall is how close you can get to it, especially in the summer. During the winter months, looking at it from a distance may be your only choice, but it’s for your safety. When you first approach Gullfoss, the crevice is obscured from view, so it seems as if the water is falling into the Earth, and not into the Hvítá river. It’s big, it’s loud, and it’s worth checking out.

III. Geysir, as the name suggests, is a geyser. The word ‘geyser’ in English actually derives from the Icelandic word Geysir. The geyser you will see erupt into the sky in the Geysir geothermal area is, however, not the famous Geysir, but one called Strokkur. It erupts every few minutes to heights of up to 30 metres.

Geysir geothermal area

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Iceland’s Premier Hotel Chain

Hospitality runs in the family

Icelandair Hotels is a renowned chain of quality hotels located around Iceland. The characteristic of each hotel is shaped by the surrounding nature, local vitality and cultural heritage, but what they have in common is equally important; warmth, style and great service. The Icelandair Hotels are like members of a tight-knit family where the personality and temperament of each individual shine through.

Your own family will feel right at home in the Icelandair Hotels family.

For information and bookings: www.icelandairhotels.com or by telephone (+354) 444 4000.

REYKJAVÍK NATURA

REYKJAVÍK MARINA

in KEFLAVÍK

FLÚÐIR

VÍK

KLAUSTUR

HÉRAÐ

AKUREYRI

HAMAR

Þórsmörk nature reserve Surrounded by glaciers, bursting glacial rivers, and stunning landscapes.

“A classic female name, Katla, is also the name of another of Iceland’s most active volcanoes.

Historically, Katla erupts at an interval of 13 to 95 years, but its last eruption was in 1918, so 2014 marks the 96th year since its last eruption.”

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Delicate beauty and rugged terrain The Þórsmörk nature reserve is a breathtakingly beautiful area surrounded by glaciers, bursting glacial rivers, and stunning landscapes. To reach Þórsmörk one must either go by foot, or navigate rugged mountain tracks and cross unbridged glacial rivers. The 25-kilometre-long (15.5 mile) hiking trail from Skógar to Þórsmörk is very popular. Along the way, one traverses natural wonders such as Fimmvörðuháls, a pass between Mýrdalsjökull and the infamous Eyjafjalljökull ice caps.

A world of ice South Iceland boasts three glaciers: Mýrdalsjökull, Eyjafjallajökull, and Sólheimajökull. The last mentioned stretches all the way to the desolate black sands that characterize the southern coast.

A number of tourist operators offer guided hikes up Sólheimajökull. During the hike, one is surrounded by amazing scenery, blue caves, a myriad of beautiful ice formations, and dark streaks of ash.

Keeping the nation on edge A classic female name, Katla, is also the name of another of Iceland’s most active volcanoes. Historically, Katla erupts at an interval of 13 to 95 years, but its last eruption was in 1918, so 2014 marks the 96th year since its last eruption. In other words: it’s due. Katla is closely monitored with ten seismometers that detect the motion of the magma chamber only 2 km (1.24 miles) below the ice cap on top of the mountain. Icelanders are no strangers to volcanic eruptions, and the whole world remembers the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull, which grounded flights and stranded travelers across the globe due to volcanic ash clouds. Historically, Katla volcano erupts shortly after Eyjafjallajökull volcano does, but the Katla eruptions usually rate higher on the Volcanic Explosivity Index (VEI) and thus could lead to even more serious consequences than a week without airplanes.

Cultural Events 2014 June

August

November

13.–15. Kótelettan Family and music festival in

7.–10. Sumar á Selfossi A summer family festival

Selfoss

in Selfoss

17. Icelandic National Day National independence day celebrations

8.–10. Meistaradeild Olís Football tournament in Selfoss

1.–3. South Iceland‘s museum weekend Events celebrating museum culture in South of Iceland

21. Midsummer‘s Eve Festival in Eyrarbakki

9. Brúarhlaupið A half-marathon in Selfoss

20.–22. June The Antique Automobile Club of Iceland Festival in Selfoss

9. Aldamótahátíð á Eyrarbakka Turn of the century town festival in Eyrarbakki

July 13. The Icelandic Museum day National celebra-

tions of Icelandic museums 18.–20. Bryggjuhátíðin á Stokkseyri Pier festival

in Stokkseyri

10. Family fishing day in Ölfusá

13. Switching on the Christmas lights in front of the public library in Selfoss 22. Christmas square Holiday market in Selfoss open every weekend until Christmas

Fish in Ölfusá at no charge

December

October

13. The Yule lads come down from Ingólfsfjall mountain

October Culture Month Diverse cultural events throughout October in Selfoss, Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyr

Selfoss Eyrarbakk i Stokkseyri

26.–27. Múlatorg square Various events at the companies by Múlatorg square

www.tourinfo.arborg.is

Swimming Pools in Árborg Sundlaug Stokkseyrar Opening hours

June 1st – August 17th Mon. – Fri. 1 pm to 9 pm.

Sat. – Sun. 10 am to 5 pm.

August 18th– May 31st Mon. – Fri. 4:30 pm to 9:30 pm.

Sat. 10 am to 3 pm.

Closed on Sundays.

Stjörnusteini, 825 Stokkseyri

Sundhöll Selfoss Open all year

Weekdays 6:30 am to 9:30 pm.

Weekends 9 am to 7 pm.

Bankavegi, 800 Selfoss

www.arborg.is sundh@arborg.is

Black sand beaches Stretching from the village of Vík all the way to Höfn in Hornarfjörður, along the South shore of Iceland, are black sand and pebble beaches that are quite unique.

It may seem strange at first, but in a volcanic island such as Iceland, it’s no surprise that the beaches are black from the tiny fragments of volcanic lava. A popular black sand beach is the Reynisfjara beach, which has black sand and basalt columns like you’ve never seen anywhere else. From the beach you can see the Reynisdrangar basalt sea stacks, which according to legend are really two trolls who attempted to drag a ship to land when the sun rose and turned them into needles of rock.

Hidden treasures at Skógarfoss waterfall Skógarfoss waterfall is one of Iceland’s biggest waterfalls. With a drop of 60 metres (200 ft) and a width of 25 metres (82 ft), it is sure to take your breath away. A Viking named Þrasi Þórólfsson was the first to settle the area and the legend says that he hid his fortune in a cave located behind the massive waterfall.

Near the Skógarfoss waterfall is the Skógar Folk Museum, which was founded in 1949 and houses an extensive collection of old artifacts from the area as well as reconstructed turf farmhouses. Equally interesting is the museum’s 93-year-old curator and founder, Þórður Tómasson. Þórður is known as an expert on the old Icelandic way of life, as he began collecting artifacts at the age of fourteen, often traveling from farm to farm to record stories from the region.

Skógar Folk Museum Houses an extensive collection of old artifacts from the area.

The leading horse Iceland’s first “equestrian theatre” is open for business in the town of Selfoss. Icelandic horses are the stars of the show, says the show director, Guðmar Þór Pétursson. The centre also features a restaurant and a designer shop. Iceland’s only horse park provides an opportunity to dine on fresh Icelandic food, while also getting to know our unique breed of horse that is unlike any other in the world. This is a fun, entertaining, and educational place for the whole family to visit all year round.

“From the beach you can see the Reynisdrangar basalt sea stacks, which according to legend are really two trolls who attempted to drag a ship to land when the sun rose and turned them into needles of rock.”

The black sands of Reynisfjara beach View from cape Dyrhólaey.

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South Iceland ten tracks

Kraut Rock and Blur – The ultimate playlist for South Iceland, put together by local Bergþóra Snæbjörnsdóttir

B

He likes Mountain Dew and Prins Póló chocolate. He also claims to like the countryside. Sigmundur is also the topic of this song by one of my favourite bands.

ergþóra Snæbjörns­­ dóttir, a promising poet, grew up on a farm near Úlfljóts­­vatn lake, South Iceland. She kindly put together the ulti­­mate playlist for South Ice­­­land, which Icelanders call “Suðurlandið.”

7

1 Country House – Blur The South has a huge but some­­­­­­­­­what hidden population of land­­owners from Reykja­­vík. This song is for them. Also, I grew up in the nineties.

8 Eisbär – Grauzone Polar bears are great. But there are none in the South. There are, however, a number of volcanoes.

And volcanic glaciers. Like Eyjafjallajökull.

2 Barbwire – Nora Dean Barbwire is another prominent feature of the South. Every self-respecting girl from the country needs to know how to handle it.

4 Rock Lobster – B52‘s A song for Eyrabakki, the cutest little village and home to the country’s best lang­­­ous­­t ine and largest prison.

9 Hallogallo – Neu A ten-minute-long, krautrock masterpiece is perfect for driving through the Southern flatlands (Suðurlands undirlendið).

10 5

ABC – Grísalappalísa

This is my raising-awareness song. And I really like this band.

The song is about the pressure to conform, which is soul-crushing in places like Selfoss and other smaller towns around the country.

Bullying is nasty. I am no saint

myself and have some questi­­­ona­­­ ble boots and a drinking problem to show for the poor choices I made in my desperate attempts to conform as a teenager.

6 Sigmundur – Vafasöm Síðmótun Sigmundur is our prime minister.

Sveitin milli sanda

– Ellý Vilhjálms Such a beautiful, unusual song.

One of the first songs to really move me as a child. The title could be translated as something like “Land between Sands.“ It always reminds me of the South and its beautiful, black sands.

Photo/Pjetur Sigurðsson

3 Jump in the line (shake señora) – Harry Belafonte Earth­­quake activity is high around these parts. And shak­­ing is just what the señ­oras and señors in the South do when the big “South Iceland Quak­­es“ hit.

Kiss Kiss Kiss

– Yoko Ono ft. Peaches Was all I could think about as a pimply thirteen-year-old with brac­­es, living on a farm in the nine­­ties with some horses and my CD/cassette player.

Pilgrims Flock to the Grandmaster’s Grave The grave of former chess master Bobby Fischer is a popular destination for fans of the board game and history alike.

B

obby Fischer rests at Laugar­­ dælir a small settle­­ment, just outside of Selfoss town in South Ice­ ­land. Visitors have been stopp­­­ing by in increasing num­­­bers to pay him respect.

It’s been reported that some have complained about queues to see the grave, and even of the lack of souvenirs on offer in the area.

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Despite this growing popularity there are no plans to develop the site for tourism, with local resi­­­dents stating that Fischer chose Laugardælir as his final rest­­ing place because it is peaceful.

Fischer passed away in Iceland in January 2008. He had faced extradition from Japan to the United States after defying a US boycott and playing his old adversary Russian grandmaster Boris Spassky in the former

Yugoslavia. Spassky and Fisher met in 1972 in a legendary World Championship duel in Reykjavík.

Later Spassky said: “When you play Bobby, it is not a question if you win or lose. It is a question if you survive.”

Fischer moved to Iceland when he was granted Icelandic citizenship in 2005, and passed away three years later. Many consider him as the greatest chess player of all time.

Paying their respect Boris Spassky (far right) and other friends of Fischer at his grave in South Iceland.

South Iceland Locals Recommend

Surrounded by Mountains Hildur Gestsdóttir is a social worker and soon-to-be yoga teacher who resides in Selfoss with her husband and two sons.

Photo/Hildur Gestsdóttir)

to Bon Iver and buying ice cream for the kids (and my husband) to keep everyone happy. Then we’d head to Þjórsárdalur, a valley close to the volcano Hekla, and one of my favourite places in Iceland. It only takes an hour and a half to drive from Selfoss to Þjórsárdalur.

There’s a beautiful place called Gjáin (the Ravine), where you can 2 hike and enjoy nature. There is also a waterfall called Hjálparfoss, which is beauti­­ful. If you are interested in archaeology and history, you could visit the old Þjóðveldisbærinn Stöng, a reconstructed Viking-era farmstead.”

Recommends restaurant Fjöruborðið in the small village Stokkseyri.

“The have the BEST langoustine in the world”.

What is your favourite rest­ aurant in the area:

What is the best place for a good brunch:

“Without a doubt, Fjörborðið in Stokkseyri, a small village by the sea, only a ten-minute drive from Selfoss. They have simply the BEST langoustine in the world and a nice, relaxed atmosphere. After the meal, it’s great to take a short walk along the sea front.”

“I haven´t found it yet, but I make a pretty good brunch myself. You are welcome to join us.”

Mention two things people should absolutely not miss when visiting the area:

Describe the perfect Sunday drive from Selfoss: “The perfect Sunday drive from Selfoss would start with listening

1 “I recommend you take a walk along the river, Ölfusá, and grab

a hot dog with all the traditional trimmings (called “ein með öllu”) in Pylsuvagninn, which is located by the bridge.

“I also recommend you drop in to Kaffi Krús, a small café in Selfoss, and have a cup of coffee and a slice of cake.”

What would you do for a fun night out in Selfoss?

“I don’t go out much anymore! I mostly meet friends at home, eat good food and drink wine. But there are a few places (very few!) on the main street, so you can’t miss them if you want to check them out.”

July 13th – Sept. 14th Points of Contact, seven Icelandic artist reflect the boom of contemporary art

Listasafn Árnesinga, Austurmörk 21, Hveragerði

Opening hours:

Tel: (+354) 483 1727

Winter: Thur-Sun 12-6 pm

Email: listasaf@listasafnarnesinga.is www.listasafnarnesinga.is

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Summer: Daily 12-6 pm Admission: Free

Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is

Welcome to the spacious galleries of Listasafn Árnesinga (LÁ Art Museum) – only 40 min. drive from Reykjavík on the Golden Circle in the geothermal town Hveragerði

A GEOTHERMAL ENERGY EXHIBITION

WORTH A VISIT

Stop by the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power Plant and see how they harness the geothermal energy.

Experienced guides are on-hand to provide informative presentations backed by multimedia shows about sustainable green energy as a global energy source and the geology of Iceland.

Origin of the Geothermal energy – The production process – An illustrated guide to Hellisheiði – The earth core Exclusive collection of minerals and stones. An excellent hiking and outdoor destination - we provide information on hiking around the Hengill area. Enjoy our coffee shop and browse through a selection of educational material in the souvenires corner.

Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is

Open daily from 9:00 – 17:00. We are about 20 minutes drive from Reykjavík on Route 1 towards Hveragerði.

More information: www.orkusyn.is Tel + 354 412 5800 e-mail: orkusyn@orkusyn.is Gps 64°02”248’- 21°24”079´

South Iceland Locals Recommend

The weather is almost always good in Flúðir Erna Óðinsdóttir lives with her family in the small town of Flúðir.

She’s a project manager and a tailor who owns her own clothing brand named Kurl Project Iceland. In her workshop, she sells local designs as well as her own—made from materials such as cotton, linen, and silk. Erna’s designs are inspired by traditional Icelandic clothing and nature. She welcomes guests into her workshop when open.

We recommend you drop by and learn more about Icelandic design, old and new.

Name three interesting places people should not miss when visiting Flúðir?

area near Flúðir. It has been kept natural so guests can experience the ‘true’ Icelandic feeling of hot springs.

The water is a cosy 38° to 40°C (100° to 104°F) all year around. The area is full of geothermal spots, and near the pool there is a small ‘geyser’ that erupts every five minutes, creating a great show for those lounging in the pool.”

1 “Bragginn (the Nissen hut) is a lovely little clay workshop where you can purchase locally made designs directly from the designer. The space also houses a café, which serves dishes made from local products. Bragginn is a ten-minute drive from Flúðir 3 “Miðfell is a small mountain in the and has a wonderful view over area. There is a marked path to the top two active volcanoes: Hekla and of the mountain, and the view from Eyja­­­fjallajökull.” there is pretty spectacular.”

2 The old pool in Hverahólmi is the oldest swimming pool in Iceland, built in 1891, and located in the geothermal

“The old pool in Hverahólmi is the oldest swimming pool in Ice­­ land, built in 1891, and located in the geothermal area near Flúðir.”

Best restaurant/café in the area: “Café Mika is my favourite restaurant in the area. It is located in Reykholt,

on the famous Golden Circle, around 10 kilometres (6 miles) from Flúðir.

They are known for their delicious langoustine dishes and handmade chocolates. Langoustine pizza, lang­ oust­ine sandwiches, langoustine soup, and salad—it all tastes heavenly!”

What is the area’s most famous landmark?

“Gullfoss waterfall is probably the most famous landmark of the area.

On the way you’ll pass the bridge near Brúðarhlöð, a narrow gorge in the river Hvítá. A beautiful spot well worth a visit.”

What can those traveling with children do in Flúðir?

“The horse rental Syðra Langholt is a good choice. They have horses for all ages and levels of skill and offer everything from one-hour trips up to tours which take a few days.

The shorter tours are ideal for those who want to get acquainted with the Icelandic horse.

There is also a lovely camping site near the farm, called Álfaskeið, which is perfect for families.”

What is your all-time favourite spot in/around Flúðir?

“I mostly enjoy places where I can enjoy some quiet, either by myself or with my family. Miðfell mountain and Hólanúkar are among those places.”

What’s the best thing about the area, in your opinion?

Erna Óðinsdóttir lives with her family in the small town of Flúðir. She’s a project manager and a tailor who owns her own clothing brand named Kurl Project Iceland. Photo/Erna Óðinsdóttir

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“The weather is almost always good in Flúðir, the scenery is beautiful, and the atmosphere is relaxed. We are surrounded by beautiful landscapes and are lucky enough to be able to enjoy it every single day.”

-the hotel by the riverside, in southern Iceland in the town of Selfoss.

We wish you a pleasant stay!

H贸tel Selfoss

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Eyravegi 2

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800 Selfoss

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Tel: +354-480 2500

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info@hotelselfoss.is

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www.hotelselfoss.is

South Iceland Locals Recommend

The best thing about Vík are its people Eiríkur Vilhelm Sigurðarson is the director of Kötlusetur Visitors Center in Vík í Mýrdal.

Eiríkur has lived his whole life in Vík, apart from seven years spent away at University.

3 “Hike up Reynisfjall mountain.

It only takes about an hour and a half and you won’t be disappointed by the impressive panoramic views from the top.

4 “Take a long, brisk walk along our black beach – it’s just such a magical place.”

Photo/Varya Lozenko

Best spot for a picnic on a sunny summer‘s day:

Eiríkur Vilhelm Sigurðarson, 25 ára, director of the Kötlusetur Visitors Center in Vík í Mýrdal, with his dog Zenta.

Name four things one should not to miss while in Vík:

most active volcanoes in Iceland.

It also houses a crafts shop which carries locally made good and an Information Centre.

1 “It’s almost mandatory for anyone travelling through Vík to stop by at the Kötlusetur Visitors Centre 2 “I recommend a visit to Gallerí located in Brydebúð, one of the leirbrot og gler, a small gallery run oldest timber houses in South by artist Guðrún Sigurðardóttir Iceland. The centre features a who makes beautiful art pieces very educational exhibition about from glass. the Katla, one of the largest and

“The best place for a picnic in my opinion is Víkurfjara beach. Just make sure you keep a safe distance from the bellowing ocean.”

Favourite day-trip from Vík: “Begin the day by having break­­ fast in Vík, then drive east to Hjörleifshöfði cape. The hike up the cape takes around two hours. Drive back to Vík for some lunch and then head west to Reynisfjara beach (route 215) to check out the basalt columns and the views. After that carry on to Sólheimajökull glacier (route 221). By the base of the glacier one can hire a guide to take you for a hike up the ice cap – it’s not recommended you hike up the glacier by yourself. Next drive

further west to visit Skógarfoss waterfall and the Skógar Folk Museum. Now it’s time to head back east with a short stop in Dyr­ hólaey (route 218) which is a picturesque peninsula. If you are lucky you might be able to spot some puffins. End the day with a nice meal in one of the restaurants in Vík.”

What‘s the best thing about living in Vík?

“The people and the town’s beauti­ful surroundings.”

What’s the best café in Vík?

“All of them are very good:­ J Suður­­­­Vík, Halldórs­­kaffi and Ströndin.”

What would you recommend for those travelling with children to do/see while in town: “Visit the swimming pool and the beach. One can easily spend hours on end playing on the beach.”

Where’s the best place to meet locals?

“On the streets of Vík.”

The Bobby Fischer Center At the Bobby Fischer Center, are items related to the great chess genius Bobby Fischer on display.

He became the World Champion in Reykjavik 1972 when he won the soviet champion Boris Spassky in “The Game of the Century”. In his later years he settled in Iceland and a few hundred meters away from the Center, you can visit his grave, located at the Laugardælir cemetery. The Center is also a club house for the local chess clubs and offers lectures about the chess game and other related matters.

GENS UNA SUMUS

SKÁKSAMBAND ÍSLANDS

FI DE

THE BOBBY FISCHER CENTER

Admission: ISK 750kr for Adults, and free for 12 years old and younger.

Fischersetur Selfossi | Austurvegur 21 | 800 Selfoss | S: (+354) 8941275 | www.fischersetur.is

Explore the wonders of

WESTMAN ISLANDS with Viking Tours

We offer wide variety of sightseeing tours and activities like: • • • • •

THE CIRCLE TOUR by boat: daily at 11:00 and 15:30 NATURAL HISTORY BUS TOUR: daily at 13:30 SURTSEY BOAT TOUR: Every Friday at 17:00 VOLCANIC HIKING TOUR (ca. 3,0 hours) And many more...

Please check our website and facebook

And do not miss our lovely soup with bread at lunch time as well as coffee/tea at Café Kró.

WESTMAN ISLANDS

Phone +354-488-4884 www.vikingtours.is

www.facebook.com/VikingToursHeimaey

South Iceland Laugarvatn Fontana Spa

Secret Lagoon Secret Lagoon natural hot springs are located close to the small village of Flúðir. The area has been kept natural and authentic. Built in 1891, this is the oldest swimming pool in the country. The pool’s natural surroundings gives the place a magical feeling that is worth experiencing on a warm summer’s day. Additionally, there is a geyser that erupts every five minutes, providing a fantastic show for anyone who ventures to this amazing area.

Flúðir

Reykjadalur Valley

Strútslaug

Icelandic Fountain of Wellness Only an hour’s drive from Reykjavík and a short distance from Þingvellir national park, Mother Nature has created the beautiful surroundings of Laugarvatn Fontana Spa. Geothermal heat simmers up from the ground, and the landscape is painted with beautiful mountain ranges. This thermal bath and wellness center is on the shores of lake Laugarvatn, where the hot springs meet the lake’s blue water.

Seljavallalaug pool

The hot streams of Reykjadalur Valley The stunning Seljavallalaug pool This is one of Iceland’s oldest swimm­ ing pools. Built next to a mountain on one side and right next to a glacial river on the other, it is one of the most spectacular bathing places of Iceland. It was opened in 1923, and at 25 meters long and 10 meters wide, it remained the largest pool in Iceland until 1936.

The pool was abandoned some decades ago, but as the natural hot water kept flowing into it, people also kept coming. The hike to the pool is around two km (1.25 mi), the old dressing rooms are run down, and there are no showers, but it’s absolutely worth the visit. Admission is free.

Reasons To Take a Bath

Hidden hot spring in the highlands You will have to work a little bit for this one.

Strútslaug is a hot spring that’s been used for bathing for decades, even centuries, in Iceland. It is located north of Mýrdalsjökull glacier, close to Mt. Mælifell (above) in the remote interior where black sands dominate the landscape, with small slivers of lush green valleys and white glacier ice caps fading into the skyline. The hike to the pool starts from a small mountain cabin (Google Strútslaug) and takes about two hours. Please, as always, don’t leave anything behind.

For more information see www. iceland­mag.com

South Iceland has many of Iceland’s best swimming pools, some made by man and other by the forces of nature.

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Photos clockwise from top: fontana.is, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Lily Stockman, south.is

Reykjadalur Valley is one of the most popular and beautiful hiking areas in and around the town of Hveragerði. Hot springs and colourful areas full of geo­­ thermal activity help define the beautiful land­­scape in this part of Iceland. Located only 30 minutes from the capital, the hiking trails starts in a parking lot just above Hveragerði town and continues around the historic Mt. Hengill. Bring your bath­­ing suit for the hot streams of the valley or feel free to let it all hang out and take a dip in the buff.

HVERAGERÐI

- blómstrandi bær!

Hveragerði – the health town Welcoming community Boil an egg in our field of hot springs Experience our romantic walking paths Variety of seasonal festivals Greenhousing and green areas Unique golfcourse Striking natural beauty Swimming pool of your dreams Thriving scene for arts and culture

ICELANDIC beer

When Beer Came Back to Iceland Most people in the English-speaking world associate the prohibition of alcohol with gangsters, the roaring 20’s, and Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby.

On the other hand, Icelanders born before 1980 might have nostalgic memories of the period when beer was a forbidden product in Iceland—up until the 1st of March, 1989.

This date is now known as Beer Day. Thus, beer celebrated its 25th birthday in Iceland this year.

Text by Marvin Dupree

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rom 1915 to 1989, beer was not allowed in Iceland, although stronger spirits were. Reading this, you might wonder why this seemingly contradictory ruling was legislated. Well, the argument went that, compared to hard liquor, it was too easy to underestimate the power of the low alcohol content of beer, so Iceland­ ers would get drunk and run rampant in the streets if beer were allowed. On the other hand, Icelanders are well aware of the high alcohol content of hard liquor, and so would not let their drink­ ing get out of control. To many Icelanders, the logic in this argumentation might seem valid, and indeed, the government still has a monopoly on the sale of alcohol. Yet, even during the dark times of beer prohibition, Icelanders were quite creative and ingenious in their solutions to this dilemma by introducing “bjórbollur,” which were “cocktails” made of a mix of spirits, as well as “bjórlíki,” an imitation beer made from vodka and weak pilsner that was only 2%. For example, the “bjórbollur” were served in traditional beer mugs— but the recipe was usually a potpourri of spirits. Government officials would closely monitor these so-called “bjórbollur,” ensuring they were indeed not beer.

From the 1940s through the ‘70s, Ice­­­ landers could buy only smuggled beer, either from abroad or from the old US mili­­ tary base.”

A growing beer tradition From the 1940s through the ‘70s, Icelanders could buy only smuggled beer, either from abroad or from the old US military base on the Reykjanes peninsula. This beer was produced specifically by Iceland’s oldest brewery, Ölgerðin Egill Skalla­­ gríms­son, for the British and later American military under the label Icelandic Polar Ale. Later this beer became known as Export Beer and received the moniker “Egill sterki” or Egill the strong from Icelanders. Despite the fact that Iceland ended its

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Viking Gylltur Iceland’s most popular beer by a good margin. It has won acclaim from the Monde Selection Institute in Brussels.

prohibition on beer only 25 years ago, Icelanders have eng­­end­­ ered a rich beer tradition in a fairly short time. For example, during Christmas and Easter, Icelandic breweries produce special editions for our beer-thirsty nation, and cognos­centi in the media deliberate the attributes of each and every beer available. Last year, there were around 25 different Christmas beers sold in the state-run liquor shops.

King Viking During the rest of the year, most of the top ten most popular beers in Iceland are made by Icelandic producers. Of these ten beers, Víking Gylltur sits comfortably on top as the most popular choice for Icelandic consumers. Gylltur is a fairly strong lager beer at 5.6% with a hint of bitterness. Not only is Gylltur Iceland’s top-selling beer, it has also won acclaim from the Monde Selection Institute in Brussels and therefore is recognized internationally as a premium beer.

Breweries in Iceland credit the Icelandic water for creating wonderful beers, since it is pure and soft, with a low mineral composition. Running down the top ten list of beers, it is evi­­­ dent that lager beers are dominant here in Iceland, although new and exciting beers from domestic breweries are springing up and are quickly earning the respect of beer connoisseurs in and outside of Iceland. Leading the charge are the craft and micro­­brewed beers, which should not come as a surprise, since the spirit of entrepreneurship seems to be encoded in Iceland­ers’ genes ever since they fled the tyranny of the Norwegian king.

If you want to experience the burgeoning microbrewery scene in Iceland, you should make sure you visit Micro Bar in down­ town Reykjavík. There you will find all the latest and excellent beers from around the country on tap, and without a doubt these beers will tickle and delight your beer palate.

ICELANDIC beer

The microbrewery Bruggsmiðjan

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Photos/Rúnar Þór Björnsson

The microbrewery Bruggsmiðjan is located in the small town of Árskógssandur in the north of Iceland.

The brewery was founded by husband and wife Ólafur Þröstur Ólafsson and Agnes Sigurðardóttir in 2005.

Since its inception, Kaldi has grown to be one of Iceland’s most popular domestic beers, attracting from 8000 to 10,000 visitors each year to the brewery in Árskógssandur.

Ólafur Þröstur and Agnes Craft beer pioneers.

gnes and Ólafur first came up with the idea for a microbrewery when watching a television segment on the popularity of microbrews in Denmark. After discussing their options, they decided to buy the necessary equipment and grains from the Czech Republic, because they had heard that Czech beers were known for their quality. Furthermore, they made the executive decision to bring the brewery to their rural hometown of Árskógssandur, a small town just north of Akureyri.

When drawing up the recipe, Ólafur and Agnes elected to go with a healthy concoction, refusing to put in the preservatives typically found in traditional beers. As a result, Kaldi’s shelf life is only 3 months long, but that hasn’t slowed down sales of the authentic Ice­­landic beer. In fact, some credit the healthy ingredients as the key contributor to the success of the Icelandic beer. The lack of pre­­­servatives and sugars yields an authentically crisp taste that fits in perfectly with new public health trends.

The inventive idea to start their own microbrewery makes the couple pioneers in Iceland.

The tour, which lasts about an hour, begins with a taste of the brewery’s products, then the guide explains the brewing tech­ niques and gives an intro­ duction to the factory‘s history.”

internationally, but right now he is just concerned with meeting Iceland’s domestic demand. “It is hard enough to keep up with demand in Iceland at the moment.”

By word of mouth One astonishing element about the growth of Kaldi is the fact that Ólafur and Agnes have not used any marketing campaigns to ad­vertise the beer. The popularity of Kaldi has spread solely through word of mouth based on the quality of the product. Ólafur also acknowledges that the brewery tours are a great way to advertise the beer on a personal level. “They get to see the facility and try out our different brews.” Ólafur and Agnes had little idea back in 2005 that their Icelandic microbeer would grow into such a beloved product that it would attract over 8000 people to their tiny town of Árskógssandur each year.

Straight from the tap Bruggsmiðjan’s guided tours have been a popular destination for tourists both domest­ic and foreign.

A popular destination Bruggsmiðjan’s guided tours have been a popular destination for tourists both domestic and foreign. The tour, which lasts about an hour, begins with a taste of the brewery’s products, then the guide explains the brewing techniques and gives an introduction to the factory‘s history. “Most of our guests are Icelandic, German, Danish, and English. The guided tours are a big part of what we do here, although most of them take place during weekends so as not to interfere too much with the production,” Ólafur Þröstur explains. Tours can be booked via email or phone, and admission is 1,500 ISK ($13/ EUR10) for adults.

As for the future of Kaldi, Ólafur is just trying to keep up with the incredible increase in demand. “Our first year we started off pro­­ducing 100,000 liters of beer, and this year we are on pace to do over 600,000 liters.” Additionally, the beer can be found in nine bars around Reykjavik and one in Akureyri. Ólafur continued to explain that one day he hopes to expand the beer

In order to try Kaldi for yourself, you can purchase Kaldi, Kaldi dark, and Kaldi lite at your local Vínbúðin or at these selected places in Reykjavík: Micro-bar Austurstræti 2, Restaurant 73 Laugavegur 73, Kaldibar Laugavegur 20b, Íslenski barinn Ingólfsstræti 1a, Foréttabarinn Nýlendugata 14, Hótel Holt Bergstaðastræti 37, Snaps Þórsgata 1, and Nora Magasin Pósthússtræti 9 and at the Brugghúsbarinn Akursíðu 2 in the town of Akureyri, North Iceland.

You can visit the Kaldi website for more information about the brewery tour in Árskógssandur. www.bruggsmidjan.is

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ICELANDIC beer

A German tradition with an Icelandic heart A newly established microbrewery located in the rural countryside of Iceland, Steðji is an Icelandic beer with a German twist.

A seasonal beer provider

Steðji beer In October Steðji will introduce a pumkin beer.

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rewed from the clear, spring water found in Ice­­land, Steðji was de­­­vel­oped by a German brewer with a history of creating rich-tasting beers. Steðji pro­­­duces a lager and a darker malted beer, as well as a number of seasonal beers. In fact, it is the seasonal beer mark­­et where Steðji sees the greatest po­­­tential for growth as a company.

pure strawberries, with no added sugar, containing 4.2% alcohol content. It offers a nice alternative for individuals who would like something a little sweeter than a traditional lager. The combination of these unique adult beverage drinking options help give Steðji its identity.

The seasonal Christmas beer made by the Icelandic com­pany was voted Ice­­ land’s best Christ­mas beer in 2012.”

Best Christmas beer in 2012 The seasonal Christmas beer made by the Icelandic company was voted Ice­­land’s best Christmas beer in 2012. Build­­ing on that success, Steðji has de­­cided to intro­­duce a new Christmas ale this December, in an effort to expand on its seasonal market share.

But it’s not just Christmas, Steðji is also debuting a pumpkin beer this October in unison with the Halloween festivities. In addition, Steðji strawberry beer is brewed from 100%

Since public advertising of beer is illegal in Iceland, Steðji has found that the best way to increase brand awareness has been through social media outlets. Additionally, they have been promoting the product in bars and liquor stores throughout Iceland, and now even offer a keg option for larger parties.

The beer with “a German tradition, but an Icelandic heart” continues to battle for its place among the popular Icelandic beers. As it slowly defines its niche as a seasonal beer provider, Steðji will carve out its place in the Icelandic beer market.

Crafted After a Visitation Dream

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Eyþór Þórisson created his signature beer, El Grillo, after developing his own recipe in the early 2000s. Eyþór was inspired to make the beer after being visited in his dreams by a woman named Lára.

ára was a local woman from Seyðis­­ fjörður fjord in East Iceland, who had lived in the house that Eyþór later turned into a bar. She was known for being a very resourceful and imagina­­ tive woman, and stories of her are popular among the local residents. Lára delivered the recipe to Eyþór in a dream after he had passed out after downing a few too many beers during a night out on the town. As a result of his inspiration, Eyþór decided to name his bar Kaffi Lára after the woman who had mystically influenced his beer. The establishment is known by the locals simply as “Lára’s house.”

Connected to the Sea The recipe for El Grillo has now passed down through three generations as Eyþór Þórisson’s son and now, his grandson, have taken over and are running the family business.

The name, El Grillo, was inspired by an old tanker ship that sank at Seyðisfjoður, Iceland, during World War II. Occupied by Britain in May 1940, Iceland

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remained neutral, but was still greatly affected by the war. This beer pays tribute to that ship, whose name is Spanish for “The Cricket.”

The front label of the Icelandic beer bottle features a picture of the sinking ship and the side label has a brief story about the tanker.

Eyþór says that he wanted to make a beer that was “connected to the sea,” due to the fishing history of Seydisfjordur.

Brewed from Icelandic Barley The beer has been on the market since 2007 and is brewed from Icelandic barley, which is only available during certain months of the year. Eyþór explained that the secret for his authentic beer recipe is the slower fermenta­ tion process that allows the beer to acquire its rich taste.

El Grillo is available at Vínbúðin stores and a number of bars throughout Reykjavik, as well as at Kaffi Lára in Seyðisfjörður.

ICELANDIC beer

American Wit & Icelandic Water Einstök is a craft brew, with an Arctic feel, and its name literally means “unique” or “distinct” in Icelandic. It was created

by Bernard La Borie, David Altshuler, and Jack Sichterman after visiting the town of Akureyri in 2010.

Iceland’s First Organic Beer

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A UniqueheCraft Brewery byof the Arctic trio discovered that the pure waters Iceland provided a Located just 60 miles south of the Arctic Circle, Einstök – which means “unique” or “distinctive” in Icelandic – starts its process with the perfect foundation for brewing craft ales, i.e. the purest water on earth. The water starts as rain or ancient glacial water from atop the Hlíðarfjall Mountain, from where it flows through and is naturally purified by ancient lava fields. From there, brew master Baldur Kárason unites it with ingredients sourced both locally in Iceland and from all over the world to deliver craft beer that is distinct and flavourful, yet deliciously refreshing and drinkable.

Doppelbock category. Also, Einstök Icelandic

a partner, the Viking Brewery, a division of Vífilfell in Reykjavík, that was interested in pursuing the craft beer market.

distributors and partners that have the same focus on quality as we do. With new breweries opening every day, we need to differentiate with the best beer, the best brand and the best packaging possible.”

ICELANDIC WHITE perfect founda­ their craft beer.EINSTÖK Additionally, the ALE tion Toasted Porter wasfor awarded a silver medal Brewed in the centuries-old Belgian in the Robust Porter category. “From day Viking Brewery, also located in Akureyri, was interested inthe tradition, our White Ale features one, we have focused on putting the best complex flavors of the classic witbier, possible quality and flavour into the bottle,” enteringsaid the craft beer market, and as a result, Einstök including orange peel and coriander – Jack Sichterman, who, along with David all brewed with pure Icelandic water Altshuler, founded Einstök in 2010. “Our Icelandic Ale born. that delivers a cool smoothness that is brand andwas packaging have always received flavorful and refreshingly drinkable. a lot of recognition, but this means more to Fast forward four years tous than 2014, is now available in Iceland, the any ofEinstök those accolades.

Our beer is fantastic.”

UK, California, and Florida. The strategy of Einstök isEINSTÖK simple: create a ALE ICELANDIC PALE QUALITY AS A CORNERSTONE American and Bavarian craft come Along with the White Ale, Doppelbock quality product and the word will spread about its existence.

This approach together with the finest Icelandic water to and Toasted Porter, the Einstök craft beer create the Viking version of the Pale Ale, THE SEARCH FOR PURITY includes an Icelandic Ale, was the only beer has paid off handsomelyportfolio as thealsoIcelandic PalePale Ale where robust hoppiness meets smooth which British GQ Magazine included as the Einstök Ölgerd was founded in 2010 by undertones. Cascade hops give it only beer on their 2013 list ofBest the “100 Best Bernardfeatured La Borie, David and Jack inAltshuler British GQ Magazine’s “100 things inmalty World Right thethe American character, while Northern Things in the World Right Now!” “The quality Sichterman after visiting Akureyri, Iceland, Brewer hops add just enough bitterness of our is the cornerstone our strategy to grow their product on a global search for the purest water in Now.” Einstök’s goals for thebeerfuture are toofcontinue to make this Ale refreshingly Icelandic. to expand internationally”, said Altshuler. the world. They found not only an abundant “We are inand the process of identifying natural both source ofdomestically pure water there, butin alsoIceland, internationally.

READY TO CONQUER THE WORLD This unique beer is currently available in Iceland, the United Kingdom, California and Florida. In its first ever competition, Einstök Icelandic White Ale won gold in the venerable Belgian-Style Witbier category and the seasonal Einstök Icelandic Doppelbock won gold in the German-Style

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For a taste of this unique beverage while staying in Iceland, simply turn to the next alcohol serving restaurant or bar and ask for Einstök. For a more personalised experience, you will find the Einstök beer in most stores of The State Alcohol and Tobacco Company of Iceland. In my experience, and I consider myself somewhat of an expert, you will find this interesting addition to the Icelandic beer-marked quite pleasing. Just remember to serve the Einstök beer ice cold, like its designers intended, because as a wise man once said: Life is too short for boring conversations, unsalted popcorn and warm beer.

EINSTÖK ICELANDIC TOASTED PORTER With clear notes of toffee and dark chocolate, this Porter is roasty and rich, offering a medium body that is robust, yet smooth on the palate. Toasted and chocolate malts give it a sinister black color, but its easy-to-drink taste will have you believing that there’s no need to be afraid of the dark anymore.

EINSTÖK ICELANDIC DOPPELBOCK This limited-edition winter brew will make its debut in October, but this winter celebration ale is worth the wait. Malted barley and chocolate tones define the traditional style, while the robust aroma and long, mellow finish will make this the perfect companion for your holiday adventures.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Fast forward four years to 2014, Einstök is now availa­ ble in Iceland, the UK, Cali­ fornia, and Florida. The strategy of Einstök is simple: create a quality product and the word will spread about its existence.”

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ils Organic stakes its claim as a trailblazing product since it is the first Icelandic beer to receive organic certification. It’s a light coloured beer that possesses a South German personality thanks to its Bavarianstyle recipe. Additionally, the beer makers use a high proportion of hops to produce a rich tasting, fragrant beer that yields a golden fog of liquid.

The inspiration for the organic ingredients results from Pils Org­ anic’s desire to reduce the risk associated with various pollutants and toxic grains often used in nonorganic drinks.

However, the organic ingredients not only create a healthy recipe, but enhance the taste of the product. Pils Organic is a beer that can be enjoyed on its own, or with your favorite food.

Iceland Magazine Explains ask@iceland­mag.com

Iceland Mag explains

Midnight sun at THE SUN VOYAGER (SÓLFARIÐ) This sculpture is by Jón Gunnar Árnason and is located at Reykjavík’s northern seafront. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

The Midnight Sun Question: How long are the summer days in Iceland?

Answer: Around the summer solstice (June 21), the sun is visible for the full 24 hours in the West Fjords. According to the National University’s information page, Visindavefur.is, the sun is visible for about 21 hours in Reykjavík on that day.

At the winter solstice (December 21), on the other hand, the days are dramatically shorter, with 4 hours of daylight in Reykjavík and a mere 2 hours and 45 minutes in the West Fjords.

Ugliest and prettiest words Question: Is it true that the ugliest word in your language is judged to be “nipple” and the prettiest “midwife”?

Answer: This is true. Last year, the National Broadcasting Service, RÚV, and the Na­­tional University’s Department of Hu­­mani­ties teamed up in an attempt to find the most beautiful word in the Icelandic language.

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The ugliest word in the Icelandic language, which turned out to be the humble word geirvarta (nipple).”

People were encouraged to send in sugg­­estions and 8500 individuals responded. Committee members then had the difficult task of narrowing the list down to only three words: ljósmóðir (midwife), bergmál (echo) and sindrandi (sparkling).

The public then voted for their favourite word. In the end, it was the word ljósmóðir, which translates directly to “mother of light,” that was deemed the most beautiful word in the Icelandic language. At the same time, two friends, Viktor Orri Val­garðsson and Garðar Þór Þorkelsson, decided to turn to Facebook in order to try and find the ugliest word in the Icelandic language, which turned out to be the humble word geirvarta (nipple), and can be directly translated as “spear-wart.”

The First Question Question: Is your first question to a foreigner always “How do you like Iceland?”

Answer: For centuries, Iceland was a rather poor country which few bothered to visit. When travelers did begin to show an interest in Iceland, the country’s inhabitants, of course, wanted to know what they thought of the place. And they still do. So. How do you like Iceland?

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

Iceland Magazine explains ask@iceland­mag.com

Do you really have to wash yourself without swimsuit before entering Icelandic swimming pools?

Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

That is true and one of the reasons for why the pools are so clean and free from harmful bacteria. After entering the dressing room, undress and make your way to the showers.

If you are uncomfortable showering in an open space with other people, you can ask the staff if there is a private shower. Once you hit the showers you have to wash with soap and without your swimsuit. A post­ er from the National Centre for Hygiene, Food Control and En­ viron­­mental Health, is found in all changing rooms and has instructions in five languages on how to wash before entering the pool.

What do you want to know about Iceland?

Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.

ask@iceland­mag.com

Food and drinks for every mood. * Burgers * Steaks * Pizza * Salad * Sandwiches * Seafood...... and much more

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Have fun in Akranes this summer !

Lots of things to do !

A SEASIDE TOWN IN WEST ICELAND

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Lively market atmosphere on Saturdays!

Akranes lighthouse open all summer!

IRISH DAYS

Spend a day by the sea on Langisandur, Akranes’ own natural beach

Sea angling

The pool is open well into the evening all summer!

s e n a r k Aall kinds of fun

Akrafjall, the natural treasure of Akranes!

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Blacksmiths and exhibitions in the Museum Centre this summer!

Want to go shopping, go to the movies or out for dinner? Everything's possible in Akranes!

Great campsite and all amenities within walking distance!

Family picnics in Garðalundur - barbecue, frisbee-golf and a playground

One of Iceland's best golf courses is in Akranes!

Whale watching

Come golfing!

www.visitakranes.is / www.akranes.is You find us on Facebook and Twitter

The Gateway to Iceland

Expansion Ahead at Keflavík Airport Due to the continuous increase of passengers traveling through Keflavik airport as well as travelers stopping in Iceland, the Keflavik airport terminal is about to go through some changes.

Easy Jet Launching three new routes from Keflavík International Airport.

KEF International Airport This will be its third expanison. The new building will open in 2016.

Direct flights to Belfast for the first time

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he south building of Keflavik airport termi­­ nal is being expanded to the west, adding six new gates and waiting areas for passengers. Passengers will be di­­ vided into two groups: those arriv­­ ing from within the Schengen area and those arriving from outside Schengen, because those arriving from within Schengen are not re­­ quired to go through border control on arrival. Better facilities to divide the two groups will therefore incre­ ase the efficiency of the airport.

The new building will be about 5,000 square metres on three floors alongside the south terminal. The top floor of the building will likely accommodate the Schengen area passengers, with both a waiting area and shops; the first floor will be a waiting- and shopping area for non-Schengen passengers, as well

as parking for the buses. The base­­ ment will be home to a security search area, toilets, and the control

rooms. According to the current plan, the new building will open in 2016.

WIFI Keflavik Airport has recently upgraded their WiFi service and will now be offering high-speed WiFi Internet throughout the airport terminal. Whilst passengers have been able to log-on in the past, the connection was instable and at times unavailable. A new connection has made that a problem of the past, and every traveller should now be able to log onto the free WiFi without any hassle.

Easy Jet is launching three new routes from Keflavík Inter­ national Airport. In addition to London Luton Airport, Bristol, Freiburg and Manchester, Easy Jet will have direct flights from Keflavík to Belfast, Geneva and Gatwick airport in London.

The new flights will operate throughout the year and provide additional and affordable flights for passengers.

It is estimated that Easy Jet will carry around 190 thousand passengers to Iceland in 2015 .

A news team from UTV (Ulster Television in Northern Irland) visited Iceland to report on the event as this is the first time direct flights are operated between the two countries.

Eleven international airlines offer flights to and from Keflavík airport this summer. The three new routes will make Easy Jet the second largest carrier operating out of the airport, Icelandair remaining in the top seat.

The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is

Akureyri Reykjavík

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My Neighbourhood – Reykjavík centre

H Signý Kolbeinsdóttir is the head designer and illustrator for Tulipop.

She lives in downtown Reykjavík with her family. Photo/Baldur Kristjánssson

Always Teeming With Life Signý Kolbeinsdóttir is the head designer and illustrator at Tulipop, a design company that creates beautiful products for children. Signý lives with her family in Grettisgata street, downtown Reykjavík.

One of her favourite spots in the neighbourhood is the old Sundhöll swimming pool, where one can gaze at the stars while unwinding in the hot tub.

What‘s the best thing about your neighbourhood, why did you choose to live there?

“The best thing about my neigh­­bour­ hood is the diversity of it, how central it is. It’s always teeming with life.

Everything we need is less than a tenminute walk away. Reykjavík’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, is just around the corner and so is the local swimming pool, countless restaurants, coffee shops, an ice cream parlour, supermarkets, and art galleries—not to mention our children’s schools, play­ grounds, and all the lovely green spaces.”

Spouse: “Heimir Snorrason, psychologist.”

Children and/or other family members: “Two kids, Snorri (almost 10), and Svava (5), and the dog Tirra.”

Where do you live? “In Grettisgata, downtown Reykjavík.”

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ulipop was founded by Signý and her friend Helga Árna­­dóttir in 2010. The magical world of Tulipop features the mushroom siblings Bubble and Gloomy, as well as other interesting and fun characters such as Mr. Tree and Fred. The product range consists of cutlery and dinner sets, lamps, notebooks, key rings, pencil cases, and more.

How long have you lived in the neigh­ bourhood?

“We just moved here two months ago. Before that we lived in a small street called Bjarnarstígur, not too far from our current location.”

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“The best thing about my neigh­ bourhood is the divers­ity of it, how centr­al it is.

It’s al­ways teem­ing with life.”

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“Lucky Records is the coolest record store in town. Has old and new vinyl records on sale as well as CDs.”

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“Njálsgöturóló is a playground on the street called Njálsgata. It’s the biggest and oldest playground in downtown Reykjavík and located in my backyard.”

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“Klambratún park offers a variety of activities for families and is the ideal place for a picnic. The Kjarvalsstaðir Museum is located within the park grounds. There you can enjoy art exhibitions and have a good cup of coffee.”

Mention four places that are a must-see or do in your neighbourhood and why?

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“Sundhöllin swimming pool is a beautiful old indoor swimming pool with outdoor hot tubs. It was designed by the great architect Guðjón Samú­ elsson and is one of the most beautiful buildings in Reykjavík. I highly recom­ mend a visit to the hot tubs during winter. Sit outside in the warm water and enjoy some stargazing, and if you are lucky, the Northern Lights.”

Sundhöllin swimming pool: “One of the most beautiful buildings in Reykjavík.” Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson

HAVE A GOOD ONE!

Steikhúsið / The Steakhouse — Tryggvagata 4-6 — 101 Reykjavík Booking: +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is

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