…RICE, TASTE and SA-WAD-DEE Serving Asian-Fusion Excellence…
of the ESSENCE NORTHWEST ANTHONYS.COM • @ANTHONYSBOISE EXPERIENCE THE WITH ANTHONY’S IN DOWNTOWN BOISE FREE VALIDATED PARKING IN THE SIMPLOT GARAGE.
CONTENTS
2 Contributors
3 Editor’s Letter
5 A Recipe for Success: Micah
Waltz, Executive Chef at Crave
7 Ice Cream for the Generations
9 The Grill Dads' Mark Anderson
13 NPR's Kathy Gunst on the Perfect Summer Salad
22 Toffee Dullaphan's Trifecta of AsianFusion Cuisine
27 The Spirits of Idaho
30 Wine and Sunsets: Vineyards in the Eagle Foothills
36 Dining in the High Lonesome
39 Chef Gary Kucy: World Class Chef, Small Town Treasure
42 Living the BBQ Dream: Kris Ott and the Chop Shop
45 Man Eats Boise: Late-Night Food
46 Open Season!
Saturdays at the Market
48 Chef Manny Martinez: Chandlers' Boss of Beef
SUMMER 2023
publisher
KAREN DAY
karen@idahorem.com
editor APRIL NEALE april@idahorem.com
features editor
HEATHER HAMILTONPOST heather@idahorem.com
art and design
JSNGRAFIX KALEY WRIGHT design@idahorem.com
director of operations and sales manager
MARIELLE WESTPHAL admin@idahorem.com
staff photographer
KAREN DAY
cover photograph
KAREN DAY
social media
APRIL NEALE
marketing, sales, and distribution karen@idahorem.com
IdaHome Magazine, LLC
P.O. Box 116 Boise, Idaho 83701 208.481.0693
© 2023 IdaHome Magazine. All rights reserved. The opinions expressed by the authors and contributors to IdaHome Magazine are not necessarily those of the editor and publisher. Community + Culture + Recreation + Real Estate
ON THE COVER
Meridian’s Sa-Wad-Dee offers a variety of dishes to delight customers. “Salmon in the Jungle,” a filet of salmon stir fried with a green curry coconut milk sauce, green beans, bell peppers, zucchini, bamboo shoots, carrot, ginger, and Thai herbs, is pictured on the cover. Owners Toffee Dullaphan and Fon Tavijaroen also own Taste and Rice, which celebrates its tenth anniversary this year and has been named Best of Boise since 2014 for best cocktail, best bloody mary, and best martini.
CONTRIBUTORS
Bonnie Trounson Alexander, an Idaho native, graduated from the University of Idaho and then moved to Dallas, Texas where she worked as a freelance writer and photographer for local and national publications. Now living in Boise, Bonnie spends time pursuing creative business ventures and keeping up with her large extended family.
April Neale is an entertainment features writer and has read her work on NPR and Spoken Interludes and writes for various industry trades and entertainment websites. Neale is a member of the Critics Choice Association, Alliance of Women Film Journalists, Hollywood Critics Association, Television Critics Association, and other professional entertainment organizations.
Pamela Kleibrink Thompson is an internationally-acclaimed recruiter, career coach and animation veteran. She's been published in more than 124 different publications and is also writing children's picture books. As a career coach, she works with creative people to help them pursue their passions.
Karen Day is a photographer and the fearless captain of our fleet of pages and mighty crew. A list of her creative passions and true job description risks making her appear insane, rather than insanely talented. Her habit of climbing onto the ledge of possibility offers us continuous adventures and little sleep. All aboard!
After graduating from the University of Iowa with a master’s degree in journalism, Harrison Berry returned to Boise, where he spent eight years working for Boise Weekly, rising to the position of managing editor. His work has appeared in publications from Business Insider to American Theatre. He currently works for Boise State University.
Darby Tarantino is a wine, culinary arts, and hospitality professional with more than 20 years of experience in the industry. She holds a degree in Wine Evaluation and is a graduate of the world-renowned Ballymaloe Cookery School in Co. Cork, Ireland. She is the owner of Enlightened Vine, which specializes in educational vine-to-wine experiences.
Dana DuGan is an award-winning writer who has held staff positions at various newspapers, magazines, and online media sources over the course of more than 20 years. Originally from the tristate area of New York City, she now lives in Hailey, Idaho. She likes few things better than a classy hotel cocktail bar.
April Thomas Whitney’s career path has taken her on many professional adventures. After spending a decade as an awardwinning journalist and newsroom manager in Portland, OR, she spent 17 years managing communications at Brundage Mountain before striking out on her current adventure as a freelance journalist, copywriter, and PR contractor.
Dear Readers,
Welcome to the grilling season! This edition of FLAVOR celebrates that primal joy of cooking outside and enjoying Idaho’s unique summertime culinary indulgences. Who better to shepherd our long days and warm nights issue than Food Network's witty star, Mark Anderson, of The Grill Dads?
Mark and his partner Ryan Fey's bold bet on themselves earned them a new career path. He also shares a fabulous recipe from his cookbook, "The Best Grilling Cookbook Ever Written By Two Idiots." Follow his lead and you will become a barbecue rockstar without looking like an idiot.
One of our favorite radio tune-ins is James Beard award-winning journalist, Kathy Gunst, on NPR’s daily show, Here & Now. Gunst graciously shared her perfect summer salad recipe from Maine to accompany The Grill Dad's delicious steak recipe, so you look like a champ serving an ideal patio meal.
Summer in Boise and the Treasure Valley is a vibrant mix of late-night eats and homegrown breweries where extraordinary pop-up events, comedy and trivia competitions thrive. Our Man Eats Boise columnist, Harrison Berry, takes us on his curated guide to late-night eats. Also in this issue, an extraordinary barbecue secret is spotlighted by Bonnie Alexander, who talks to rising star Chef Kris Ott at the Chop Shop. Alexander also discovers how craft ice cream is beautifully wrought by The Stil, where everyone can get a frozen delight even with dietary restrictions. Their modern take on the ubiquitous American ice cream shop is a welcome respite all year round. For a vacation getaway, April Whitney takes us to magical McCall and a hotel with a superstar chef, while Dana DuGan shines a light on the lesser-known eateries of Stanley, where the food is as stunning as the Sawtooth scenery.
Yes, the heat can get intense, but there are glorious cocktails to make the hours happy. Since 2017, July has been celebrating Idaho Spirits Month with ticketed events like SIP Idaho. Find your unique cocktails as Idaho distilleries show off their latest and greatest new varietals. From the gleaming Bardenay distilleries throughout the state to 44 North Vodka's new Hagerman Watermelon vodka, to Post Falls’ Up North distillery and Driggs’ rising star, Grand Teton—it’s clear that Idaho is now a serious contender in the distilled spirits game. Drink up!
Pamela Thompson profiles Micah Waltz, executive chef at Eagle’s Crave Kitchen + Bar. For the cover story, she also takes us through three local award-winning restaurants, Sa-Wad-Dee, Taste and Rice, owned by restaurateur Toffee Dullaphan, where Asian food soars to new heights. Consider this summer issue of FLAVOR your delicious survival guide for the best eats and drinks in the Treasure Valley and beyond. Then, please find us on Instagram, chat with us, and see what's cooking daily on Twitter and Facebook. Get and give this issue for the irresistible recipes that will become treasured favorites, and see where the best new restaurants and chefs are wielding their magic.
In good taste,
April Neale
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SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
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A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS:
Micah Waltz, Executive Chef at Crave
By Pamela Kleibrink Thompson
Eagle, Idaho is a white hot culinary epicenter, with Crave Kitchen + Bar taking the spotlight—thanks to Micah Waltz, Executive Chef. One of the co-owners, Derek Hood, knew he had a tiger by the tail with Chef Waltz. “Micah has a passion, a gift. He’s a walking encyclopedia, and has worked with Wolfgang Puck in his restaurants, plus Jean Georges Steakhouse, and he’s seen more things than a lot of people ever will see. Micah’s got rough shoulders to work alongside these influential top chefs, he’s learned so much.”
“My biggest thing is creativity,” said Chef Waltz. “Being able to push the envelope in food.” His impressive culinary experience aside, Waltz knew that he had a talent for cooking since he was a student in Post Falls, Idaho. “I would cook for my friends,” Waltz reflected. “Growing up, I spent a lot of time in the kitchen with my mom, who taught herself to cook.” As a student athlete with an appetite, Waltz was fortunate to have a mom who used home-grown vegetables. A shoulder injury derailed his planned athletic career, so instead he pivoted to pursue an education in the culinary arts. “I had a natural knack. It came easy for me,” he said.
It was Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Scottsdale, Arizona, that set him on a course for an externship at Beverly’s at Coeur d’Alene Resort. This led to 15 years working
in the best kitchens in Las Vegas, starting at Sensi at the Bellagio as a sous chef under Rob Moore, who gave him great perspective and the right tools to succeed. He went on to Le Cirque, Jean Georges Steakhouse, and then Cut by Wolfgang Puck. My sports background helped because it is fast paced in the kitchen and you have to listen. The kitchen staff was diverse—Japanese, Indian, Latin, Asian, Italian,” he said. “Our menu combined those different cultures. It broadened my perspective of world cuisines.”
Crave‘s inventive menu plays on the seasonality of ingredients and high-quality finds that Micah sources from all over. Of his tenacity to find the best ingredients, Derek Hood added: “Micah pushes the envelope, he’s open to all influences, not just farm-to-table. He sources hard-to-find, quality items from distributors on the East or West Coast. He’s always looking for opportunities to showcase his talents and creativity.” Popular Crave items include Ceviche Blanco, Tuna Tartare Guacamole, and the double-stack Crave Burger. “We offer dishes that people are familiar with, but give them a twist,” he said. Waltz’s personal favorite was a cioppino adapted from his aunt’s recipe with added Pernod. His aunt, Janice Thomas, inspired him when he was young—she has a culinary school called Savory Spoon in Wisconsin. He also remembers his paternal grand-
mother who passed on Dutch and Danish baking traditions like pies and cinnamon rolls. “I can still remember that smell in the house,” Waltz said.
“Layering of flavor” is the secret to great food, Waltz shared. Consistency is key. “We take the time to dissect recipes so they are fool proof,” he said. “The dish comes out the same way every time. We have high standards, and everything is fresh.”
Waltz returned to Idaho because he wanted his daughter Hartley Pearl, 6, to have a similar upbringing as he did. “The outdoors is huge for me,” said Waltz, who enjoys fishing, camping, and hunting with Hartley and his wife Concetta, as well as foraging for local culinary treasures like mushrooms and huckleberries.
“What I like most about Idaho is the sense of community. People here have integrity,” Waltz said. “There is a willingness to be kind.” Waltz demonstrates that kindness in the kitchen by making sure his staff is committed to preparing memorable dishes of quality and enjoying their work. He takes a genuine interest in the people he works with, “whether that means asking about their kids, praising a job well done, or just letting them know my door is always open. You have to treat people well and make sure everyone gets time to play.” That’s what everyone, customers and staff, really crave.
www.idahomemagazine.com 5
Left: CRAVE’s ceviche blanco, featuring hamachi, albacore tuna, avocado, leche de tigre sauce, and chili oil is pictured alongside ‘The Devil You Know’, a passionfruit and habanero drink. Center: Chef Waltz shows off a full ribeye served with red and black peppercorns and fresh herbs. Above: The CRAVE Kitchen and Bar offers elegant lakeside dining in Eagle, Idaho. PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
Featuring creatively unique ice cream flavors, vegan options, and booze infused creations, The STIL has something tasty for every ice cream lover.
Using locally sourced, high quality, real ingredients and nothing artificial, The STIL delivers expertly balanced flavors in a rich and creamy ice cream experience unlike any you’ve had before.
An acronym for The Sweetest Things In Life, The STIL aims to create a space for customers to connect with the sweetest things, people, moments, and memories in their lives over the shared joy of delicious ice cream, beverages, and treats.
ilovethestil.com
ICE CREAM for the Generations
By Bonnie Alexander
If Idaho were an ice cream, it would be a delicious bowl of “Idaho Wilderness”— mixed with berries and lavender—according to frozen treat visionaries Kasey Allen and Dan Sell. These founders of the rapidly growing The STIL determined that Boise did not have a flagship ice cream shop that reflected the vibe and flavor of our city.
Named The STIL, an acronym for The Sweetest Things In Life, Allen and Sell opened their first shop in downtown Boise’s BoDo district in 2017. Fast forward six years, and The STIL has become a Treasure Valley treasure. Three additional locations have opened in Harris Ranch, on the Bench, and at Indian Creek Plaza in Caldwell. As Allen explained, “We have something for everyone including vegan and gluten free options.” They also sell homemade peanut butter, pumpkin, and banana doggy biscuits.
According to the duo, small-batch ice cream creations in Boise and beyond in the Treasure Valley should explore the local bounty available to create the sweet—as well as salty, spicy, and even a little nutty—menu inspired by everything from cultural references and witty one liners to historical figures and even famous local landmarks.
Enjoying ice cream is definitely one of The Sweetest Things In Life, and the two have created a place where every generation could gather, share fun, and savor an assortment of ice creams made from locally-sourced ingredients,
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Kasey Allen (left) and his The Stil business partner, Dan Sel. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE STIL
“We have something for everyone including vegan and gluten free options.”
without preservatives or food colorings. Taking their concept to another level, local beer from Boise breweries, local wine, and liquor-infused ice cream are added to some of their dairy and vegan frozen treat options. Then, in a stroke of genius, they paired ice cream flavors with beer and wine in a myriad of combinations sold in flights so all that appealed could be sampled. Appealing to appreciative 21+ ice cream lovers, The STIL aces other creameries with their delectable adult ice cream flavors. “Ed & Carl Take Reno” adds bourbon whiskey to the mix, and “Sawtooth Road Trip” features Idaho huckleberry ale. Flights include pairings of four ice cream scoops and four glasses of beer, wine, or both.
Since The STIL opened, they have churned out over 150 different flavors.
The menu of 24 flavors rotates regularly based on fresh ideas and seasonal ingredients. 12 favorites stay on the menu as signature flavors. How can one resist “After School Special,” with peanut butter and no bake cookie, or “Licking the Spoon”—aptly named for brownie batter flavored ice cream?
Allen explained that what may seem like wild flavor combinations are actually intentionally created to be “accessible”— perhaps by connecting to childhood memories, or by putting together food items we may not associate with ice cream, but at least we know what they are. The anticipation of new flavors with amusing names keeps patrons coming back for more.
Not only does The STIL use the highest quality ingredients, including milk from an
The STIL crafts small batch ice cream from Idaho dairy, creative and creamy vegan options from coconut cream, plus famous booze-infused creations. Pair your scoop with a wide selection of local beer and wine for an experience unlike any other—create your own ice cream sandwich, or try an affogato made with ice cream and fresh espresso.
dairy farm in Idaho Falls, but they make every fresh batch of ice cream onsite at the Boise Bench store. Customers can watch the process through windows dividing the shop from the kitchen. The rich creaminess and denser ice cream comes from the premium milk with 16% butterfat churned slowly in Italian gelato machines.
The success of The STIL can be attributed to friendly attentive service, high quality products, and a comfortable atmosphere. Juxtaposing new and old—a modern interior design and old school large blackboard menu with a changing handwritten list of ice cream flavors and ice cream-based treats—The STIL is an intergenerational hot spot where cool treats and summer patio seating ensures you always enjoy The Sweetest Things In Life.
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE STIL
THE GRILL DADS’ MARK ANDERSON
Master of Smoke and Fire on TV and in the Backyard
The Grill Dads are Ryan Fey (left) and Mark Anderson (right), whose Food Network series show you how to ball out as hard as they do and make juicy, well-seasoned, and perfectly cooked dishes on your backyard grill or smoker.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE GRILL DADS
By April Neale
The Grill Dads, authors of “The Best Grilling Cookbook Ever Written
By Two Idiots,” offers hot takes on how to cook on an open flame, but don’t call them the “b” word. Mark Anderson explained: “We’re The Grill Dads, not the barbecue dads. A grill is a tool. Barbecue is a cuisine—that’s how we differentiate those. Our cookbook shows that you can cook anything on the grill.”
Anderson is a serious learner who exhausts cooking a specific protein until he and his partner, Fey, feel that they have mastered the recipe. He urged people to practice cooking a dish repeatedly until they feel confident that they can do it with their eyes shut. “We never went to the Culinary Institute of America or were nominated for a James Beard Award. We are the school of hard-knock people and learned in our backyard. We took it very seriously. When someone watches a French Laundry chef using expensive ingredients, it’s not easy to replicate. We told our publisher we want people to see what we’re doing inside the book, like when we cook live on the Today Show,” Anderson said. “As soon as we said that to him, he said, ‘I’ve got the book title—The Best Grilling Cookbook Ever Written by Two Idiots.’”
Humor has always been a massive part of The Grill Dads’ “secret sauce”— the two men think on their feet and deliver perfect one-liners that caught some famous eyes. The two “dads’’ were stuck, frustrated in their positions
at the ad agency they worked at. So they started brainstorming a way to create some attention for their love of cooking. Then the people arrived, crashing their backyard meals. Even restauranteurs asked them to do restaurant takeovers.
Under the radar, Anderson and Fey’s little experiment in betting on themselves paid off. “Our original programming team was trying to develop TV content platforms at the advertising agency. And then I got our show we produced on national TV—but we were never a part of that group! We always got a kick out of that,” he said. “We were writing and starring in this short video, which was incredible. But from our first version of what would become ‘The Grill Dads’ on Kickstarter to when our show premiered on the Food Network took nine months.”
The Grill Dads pushed it further. Anderson knew former “Double Dare” host Marc Summers was a big deal at Food Network, and he blind emailed him a short clip of their effort. The result was an immediate phone call.
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What started as a backyard hobby cooking for their families, dinner parties and casual barbecues soon turned into guest executive chefs for sold-out pop-ups at some of Los Angeles’s best restaurants, regular grilling expert appearances on the Today Show, and their own show on the Food Network. PHOTO COURTESY OF THE GRILL DADS
“… you should be able to cook something perfectly with salt before doing anything else.”
“Marc is a comedian from the Midwest. Fey and I thought, maybe he’ll think our video is funny. So I emailed it and said, ‘This is the better-looking half of The Grill Dads. We have a show concept we wanted to share with you. Here’s a link and the password to YouTube.’ Less than five minutes later, my phone rings—Marc Summers. He said, ‘Who the f**k are you guys? That was the funniest thing that anyone’s ever sent me. Are you guys chefs? What the hell is this thing?’ We had our first power breakfast in Beverly Hills with him. He asked, ‘Do you care if I bring in my friend Guy Fieri as a partner?’ A month later, we went up to Fieri’s House, they were going to co-executive produce a pilot, but then his show, ‘Guy’s Big Project,’ was greenlit by the Food Network. Guy asked us to launch our show through that. And we won in 2017,” he said.
The ongoing relationship with Fieri allowed Anderson to tip him to the hot spots in Boise for the recent “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.” “There’s a lot of great food in the Treasure Valley
and a lot of mediocre food too. I was traveling a lot, and when I got home, we weren’t eating out a ton in Boise between parenting a young child and the pandemic. So you can see the growth in the restaurant scene,” he said. “The Modern Hotel, when Nate Whitley was the chef, was one of the best bites in town. And now Sunshine Spice Cafe over on Fairview at their bakery. Insane. I still need to go to Amano out in Caldwell. So legit spots are popping up. I helped Guy’s team with the Boise recon. Another one that I pushed for was Madre’s.”
Now The Grill Dads are building their YouTube Channel and furthering their Spiceology line. “The Food Network show is not the finish line for building a brand. We wanted to create this brand and build it into something that could be a real company, not just two guys on TV occasionally. You have to get products out into the world. We have a massive passion for cooking,” Anderson said. “Another thing is you should be able to cook something perfectly with salt before doing anything else. The problem with many of these retail rubs is that salt
is likely the seventh ingredient behind garlic, powder, paprika, sugar, and all these fillers. But if you use the Salt and Pepper Three Chili, we designed it so that the first bite of a steak, your reaction should be, ‘Holy crap. That’s the best bite of steak I’ve ever had.’ Not, ‘Oh, this is spicy.’ We’ve been dry brining poultry for a long time. People always comment on our chicken, ‘Holy cow, what did you do?’ All we had done was salt the chicken in the morning, uncover it, and place it in the fridge—a light dry brine. Our Maple Chili seasoning makes an epic Thanksgiving turkey.”
Even salmon gets significant love from Anderson. “Gravlax is one of my favorite things that I make. I want to create this better at home than ordering at a restaurant,” he said. “My favorite protein in the world is raw or cured salmon. My least favorite protein in the world is cooked salmon. It’s bizarre. Whenever I do an event, I get a whole side of king salmon and serve it whole. Whatever’s left over, I make a whipped smoked salmon creme fraiche cracker dip. It works so well for Gravlax.”
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The Grill Dads aren’t serving up your standard backyard BBQ. Their charm and intrinsic food knowledge come through in everything they do, including their two product lines with Spiceology.
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE GRILL DADS
GOOD MOJO FLANK STEAK
Flank steak is udderly delicious (Google “where on the cow is a flank steak” and you might get our joke). It’s lean but has a big beefy flavor and stands up well to the grill. Two rules here. First, cook it hot and fast directly on the grill for maximum grilled flavor. Second, cut across the grain for maximum tenderness. Mojo Picón is a bright, fresh Spanish sauce with every element you need to jazz up your flank: heat, fat, punchy vinegar. Traditionally you would do this with a mortar and pestle, but we’re speeding things up a bit.
Serves: 6, makes about 1 cup (240 ml)
Mojo Picón | Prep Time: 20 minutes |
Cook Time: 15 minutes
FOR THE MOJO PICÓN
8 cloves garlic
2 medium red chiles, picón or red
serrano
1 tsp ancho chile powder
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp kosher salt
¾ cup (180 ml) olive oil
2 tsp (10 ml) sherry vinegar
For the Steak
2 lb (907 g) flank steak
Kosher salt, for seasoning
Black pepper, for seasoning
1 tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp ground coriander
Flaky salt, for finishing
• To make the Mojo Picón, combine the garlic, chiles, ancho chile powder, cumin and salt in a food processor, and pulse until finely chopped, about 12 pulses. Scrape down the sides of the food processor, replace the lid and turn the food processor on. Drizzle in the oil until the sauce forms a smooth paste. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning, if necessary, before mixing in the sherry vinegar. Set aside while you gril lthe steak.
• While we like to bring big, thick cuts of meat to room temp before grilling, keeping thin steaks like flank and skirt cold until just before grilling is extra insurance against overcooking over the flames.
• Heat the grill to medium-high heat. While the grill heats, generously season the steak with kosher salt and black pepper on all sides. Combine the cumin and coriander in a small bowl, and sprinkle on the seasoned steak.
• Grill the flank steak: You’re going to grill this steak over medium-high direct heat, so keep it moving. Put the steak on the grill and cook for just 2 minutes on the first side before flipping, then keep flipping every 2 minutes until the steak is nicely charred, about 10 minutes total. We like an internal temperature of about 125°F (50°C) in the thickest part of the steak for rare. You can always use tongs to roll thinner sides of the flank up and away from the heat (like folding a tortilla) while you continue to cook the thicker end.
• Remove the flank steak to a cutting board and rest for 10 minutes before slicing thinly across the grain. Season the sliced steak with the flaky salt and serve with a drizzle of the Mojo Picón.
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REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE BEST GRILLING COOKBOOK EVER WRITTEN BY TWO IDIOTS BY MARK ANDERSON AND RYAN FEY. PAGE STREET PUBLISHING CO. 2022. PHOTO BY KEN GOODMAN
NPR’S KATHY GUNST ON THE PERFECT SUMMER SALAD
By April Neale
Our favorite back-East chef, Kathy Gunst, is a James Beard Award-winning food journalist. The author of 16 cookbooks, her latest is “Rage Baking—The Transformative Power of Flour, Fury, and Women’s Voice” (coming out in paperback, July 2023, Simon and Schuster). She is the Resident Chef for the award-winning show, Here and Now, heard on over 500 public radio stations nationwide. She writes for the Washington Post, Eating Well, Yankee, and other publications. She teaches food writing classes all over the globe. www.kathygunst.com
“Every summer, we grow a large vegetable and herb garden at home in southern Maine,” Gunst said. “I don’t grow corn because it takes up so much space, and there is an amazing corn stand just down the road. But I grow a dozen tomatoes, herbs, and edible flowers. This salad celebrates summer gardens, produce, and their colors, textures, and flavors. It combines ripe tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, sweet juicy corn, and creamy feta cheese with fresh basil. Best of all, the salad takes about 15 minutes to put together.”
KATHY GUNST’S SAUTÉED CORN SALAD WITH TOMATOES, CUCUMBER,
AND FETA WITH BASIL VINAIGRETTE
Serve with crusty bread or warm biscuits. Serves 2 to 4.
BASIL VINAIGRETTE INGREDIENTS
2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon white or red wine vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh basil, very thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
SALAD INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, chopped
2 ears corn, shucked and cut off cob, about 1 1/2 cups
· 1 large ripe tomato, cubed
· 1 medium cucumber, peeled and cubed
2 1/2 tablespoons fresh basil, very thinly sliced
1/2 cup feta cheese or goat cheese, cut into cubes or small pieces
• Make the dressing: In a small bowl, stir together all the ingredients. Season to taste.
• Make the salad: Heat the oil over moderate heat in a medium skillet. Add the garlic and cook for one minute. Add the corn and cook for three minutes, stirring—season with salt and pepper.
• Meanwhile, gently mix the tomato, cucumber, and half the basil on a serving plate or salad bowl. Add the warm corn and gently toss. Scatter cheese and the remaining basil on top. Season with salt and pepper and add the dressing on top or serve on the side.
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This is the salad for summer, said Kathy Gunst. “It combines ripe tomatoes, crunchy cucumbers, sweet juicy corn, and creamy feta cheese with fresh basil. Best of all, the salad takes about 15 minutes to put together.” PHOTO COURTESY OF KATHY GUNST
CATERING - BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER FULL SERVICE & THEMED EVENT PLANNING GIFT BASKETS, BALLOONS, FLORAL & WINE OFFERINGS FOR ANY OCCASION PRIVATE & TEAM BUILDING CLASSES DELIVERY - DROP OFF OR SET UP WE HANDLE IT ALL! ALBERTSONS MARKET STREET CATERING MarketStreet.Catering@Albertsons.com, 208-605-3752 ext. 1237 ALBERTSONS BROADWAY CATERING BroadwayCatering@Albertsons.com, 208-336-5278 AT YOUR SERVICE
Treasure Valley Restaurant Guide
Photo by Lum3
SEAFOOD \\
ANTHONY’S AWARD-WINNING CLAM CHOWDER
creamy New England style, potatoes, bacon
ALASKA WEATHERVANE SCALLOPS
pan seared, sprinkled with gremolata
SEAFOOD CHOP CHOP
Dungeness crab, Oregon bay shrimp, avocado, chopped egg, tomatoes and chopped greens, fresh basil vinaigrette
DUNGENESS CRAB CAKES
ginger plum sauce & beurre blanc
STEAMED MANILA CLAMS
fresh tomato, red pepper, local Gem Pack chorizo, yellow onion, steamed in lobster broth, topped with gremolata
JUMBO PRAWN COCKTAIL
ANTHONY’S CRAB STACK
Dungeness crab, mango, huckleberries, avocado, mango-chive oil
Our menu includes Chef Reno’s daily selection of the finest fresh Northwest seafood from our own seafood company. To highlight select seasonal favorites, a daily fresh sheet is also included in our dinner menus.
SURF + TURF \\
N.W. SURF + TURF TOWER
celebrate the best of both worlds!
+ SHAKING BEEF*
+ FRESH DUNGENESS CRAB STACK
+ CILANTRO POACHED OCEAN PRAWNS
+ NORTH ATLANTIC LOBSTER SKEWERS
SNAKE RIVER FARMS WAGYU TOP SIRLOIN*
grilled to your liking, Anthony’s steak seasoning, butter, frizzled onions, Idaho baked potato, seasonal vegetables
STEAK + SCAMPI PRAWNS*
Snake River Farms Wagyu top sirloin grilled to your liking, roasted scampi prawns, fresh lemon, gremolata
OYSTERS \\
OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL
homemade cocktail sauce, cucmber mignonette
PAN FRIED OYSTERS
fresh yearling oysters, pan fried golden brown
SEAFOOD FETTUCCINE
ocean prawns, Oregon bay shrimp, Manila clams, mussels, Alaskan Weathervane scallops, vegetables, garlic cream sauce
VISIT US ONLINE!
make reservations & see full menus
Appetizers
Croquetas
Serrano ham, fennel kimchi, romesco, green onions, piment d’ezpelette
Calamari
Seasoned flour, ink aioli, lemon wedge
Charcuterie Platter
Serrano ham, salami, Iberico chorizo, capicola, Manchego cheese, pickles, olives, mustard, toasted baguette
Salads/Soups
Leku Ona Salad
Arcadian mix, tomatoes, onions, olives, egg, Manchego, croutons, with house dressing. Add Salmon or steak
Tuna Belly Piquillo Salad
Tuna belly, romaine hearts, piquillo peppers, olives, eg,g Basque pepper vinaigrette
SEAFOOD
Petrale Sole
Fried sole, seafood bechamel, blue swimming crab
Trout a la Navarra
Hagerman trout, prosciutto-garlic refrito, Basque cider
Grilled Salmon
A la Plancha, roasted garlic, chili oil, scallion
BEEF
Solomillo
A la Plancha filet mignon, Manchego cream sauce
Entrecotte
Grilled New York, sliced and garlic basted
Kg Txuleton
Bone in Rib Eye, sliced and garlic basted
LAMB
Braised Lamb Shank
Braised lamb hindshank, Rioja demi-glace
Lamb Chops
Boise River lamb chops, house chimichurri
OPEN TUESDAY - SATURDAY 208-345-6665 117 S 6TH ST, DOWNTOWN BOISE ON THE BASQUE BLOCK! BOISEBASQUEFOOD.COM
208.888.5000 • 32 1 0 E Louise Drive, Meridian • LingandLouies.com *2022 Meridian Press Best of Meridian ASIAN RESTAURANT MERIDIAN’S be st ! NEW ComingLocationBoiseThis Summer!
APPETIZERS: Guacamole
Our house recipe topped with cotija cheese and Tajin. Served with tostaditas.
Duck Carnitas Quesadilla
Duck confit and our proprietary cheese blend. Served with pasilla sauce and guacamole.
Pork Belly and Chicharron
Citrus coleslaw, agave siracha sauce, tortillas, and salsa.
Esquites
Fire roasted corn, lime, Tajin, cotija cheese, spicy mayo, and popcorn.
Queso Fundido with Spicy Shrimp
Mexican chorizo, rajas, and our proprietary cheese blend. Served with tortillas.
Octopus Con Achiote
Tender octopus marinated with achiote spice and presented with yuca fries and chimi-pico sauce.
ENTRÉES: Tampiqueña
8oz. filet mignon on top of fajita vegetables and served with two chicken enchiladas in a salsa verde. Presented with ancho rice and refritos.
Costilla de Borrego Con Pepitas
Pumpkin seed crusted rack of lamb with potato purée and asparagus. Served with an ancho chile and tomatillo sauce.
Bone Marrow Tacos
Four tacos served with avocado, onions, queso fresco, and pico de gallo. Presented with ancho rice and black beans.
Mar Y Tierra
14oz. grilled New York & Maine lobster tail presented with Yukon potato purée and black beans. Served with an ancho-port wine reduction.
Milanesa de Filete de Res
Pan fried breaded beef tenderloin topped with asadero cheese and chipotle pepper. Served over chipotle angel hair pasta.
Scallops al Mojo de Ajo
Day Boat scallops presented in a garlic sauce. Served with cilantro rice, jalapeño, tomatoes, and sliced garlic.
Pescado Del Dia a La Veracruzana
Pan seared catch of the day served with onions, tomatoes, green olives, capers, and garlic in a tomato broth. Presented over cilantro rice.
Seafood Molcajete with Plantains
Pan roasted lobster, shrimp, scallops, fish, octopus, crab, grilled cactus, avocado, and panela cheese in a spicy tomato chile de arbol sauce. Presented in a hot lava rock molcajete.
Maine Lobster Enchiladas
Spinach, poblano chilies, and our proprietary cheese blend. Served in salsa verde, with cilantro rice and black beans.
615 W. Main St. • Downtown Boise • (208)519-1213 • coadejimaboise.com
LOCATED IN NAMPA AND EAGLE - SCAN TO SEE FULL MENU! @holycowidaho IDAHO'S PREMIER CRAFT
& BEER RESTAURANT
BURGER
TOFFEE DULLAPHAN’S TRIFECTA OF ASIAN-FUSION CUISINE
22 www.idahomemagazine.com
By Pamela Kleibrink Thompson
Eagle, Idaho is often looked upon as the Plan B of Boise, as far as great food is concerned, and the citizens of this expansive hamlet are just fine with this misguided perception—especially since the three sophisticated Asian-fusion restaurants of Toffee Dullaphan and Fon Tavijaroen have developed a loyal cadre of customers. It all started with a small restaurant on Fairview in Meridian. SaWad-Dee, which translates to “hello and goodbye in Thai,” opened in December of 2004. Dullaphan, the active manager of all three restaurants, has been saying hello and goodbye over and over to thousands of customers ever since.
Specializing in Thai cuisine, Sa-WadDee is a favorite of my husband and mine. We’ve been dedicated to tasting all the items on the lunch menu bite by
bite. One of my favorites is “Salmon in the Jungle,” while my husband is partial to sweet and sour shrimp. “Salmon in the Jungle,” as pictured on the cover of FLAVOR, features a fresh filet, stirfried with spicy green curry coconut milk sauce, green beans, bell peppers, zucchini, bamboo shoots, carrots, ginger, krachai, basil, galangal, and lemongrass. Dullaphan and Tavijaroen found great success with Sa-Wad-Dee and decided to focus on the restaurant business fulltime. In 2013, they opened Rice in Eagle. Dullaphan explained that the concept was to expand beyond Thai food. “Rice is a commonality in all Asian countries,” she said. “Every country has its own version of rice.” Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, Rice has been named Best of Boise by the Idaho Press annual awards since 2014, often for best cocktail,
www.idahomemagazine.com 23
“Rice is a commonality in all Asian countries.
Every country has its own version of rice.”
Opposite page: Korean Beef Tacos are a tantalizing blend of marinated beef bulgogi, cabbage, lettuce, and cilantro, dressed with house-made pickled daikon/carrot, spicy gochujang Korean mayo sauce, kimchi, and feta cheese, topped with crispy onions and served in corn tortillas. Above left: Accolades for top local prizes greet patrons at Rice. Above right: Ribeye basil with fried egg at Rice. PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
best Bloody Mary and best martini—specifically, their Lemon Basil Martini. One of secrets behind their great drinks could be that they make their own bar mix fresh every week. “You can tell the difference!” said Dullaphan.
One of the best sellers at Rice is their salmon pineapple curry, composed of a grilled salmon filet, pineapple, tomatoes, basil, peas, carrots, and bell peppers with a red curry sauce. Some of Dullaphan’s favorites include sea scallops and prawns (sauteed sea scallop and prawn with garlic ginger cilantro sauce, carrot, served over brown rice with almonds); Korean bulgogi beef (marinated sliced tender
beef served on a hot plate, with a side of white jasmine or brown rice, kimchi, Korean chili paste, and lettuce); and the local Double R Ranch ribeye topped with fried egg (grilled sliced ribeye steak topped with fried egg served with stirfried asparagus, onions, bamboo shoots, bell peppers, zucchini, and mushrooms in a basil garlic sauce served with white jasmine or brown rice).
But her favorite is any kind of sushi. “My dad took the family out to eat sushi at least once a month,” Dullaphan recalled. “One of the misconceptions about Thai food is that it has to be super spicy to be good and authentic. I grew up
in a family in Bangkok where we didn’t eat much spicy food. I only eat mildly spicy food now so I can enjoy it.”
Dullaphan and Tavijaroen expanded their offerings with the opening of Taste in 2019, which Dullaphan described as a restaurant with “no borders.”
“It’s a combination of Asian food with modern variations. We combine recipes for whatever tastes good. It’s Asian food with a twist,” she said. Taste fuses Asian dishes with specialties from other countries such as Korean beef tacos (marinated beef bulgogi, cabbage, lettuce, cilantro, house-made pickled daikon/carrot, spicy gochujang
24 www.idahomemagazine.com
Above left: Rice offers a variety of fresh dishes, including the Samurai Sushi Roll pictured here. Alternately, enjoy sautéed sea scallop and prawn with garlic ginger cilantro sauce, Chinese broccoli, and carrot, served over Jasmine and brown rice with pine nuts. RIght: Sa-Wad-Dee’s Larb Ground Pork Salad features a Thai lemon-lime vinaigrette, rice powder, onion, mint leaves, tomatoes, cucumber, served on a bed of lettuce.
PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
Korean mayo sauce, kimchi, feta cheese, topped with crispy onions and served in corn tortillas) or spicy shrimp green curry flatbread (shrimp, basil, bell pepper, jalapeno, green beans, and mozzarella blended cheese topped with Parmesan cheese).
“I love to eat and I love to cook,” Dullaphan said. She first learned to cook when she was in fourth grade. Her parents owned a restaurant in Thailand when she was in high school. Her first job in America was at Taco Bell while obtaining her master’s degree in marketing and international business from Missouri State University. Tavija-
roen has a master’s degree in marketing communication from Emerson College in Massachusetts.
Dullaphan attributes her strong work ethic to values instilled by her father. “My dad trained me well,” she said. Some of the things Dullaphan loves most about Idaho are its “nice people.”
“It is clean, safe and beautiful with mountains, lakes, everything that makes my life enjoyable.I love it,” she said.
Dullaphan advised those interested in the restaurant business “be open minded. Listen to the customer. And have passion and patience. You can learn from everyone.”
Dullaphan and Tavijaroen are grateful for their success. “We want to thank our long-time customers. To thank everyone for all your comments and feedback, which helped us grow and become better. We also want to thank our staff who have worked so hard for Rice, especially Major Ludwig and Dusty Guthmillet. They started Rice with us ten years ago,” she said.
It may take my husband and myself ten more years to get through the vast array of dishes at Rice, Taste and Sa-WadDee—but have no doubt, Dullphan’s Asian-fusion cuisine has expanded the borders of great food throughout the Treasure Valley.
www.idahomemagazine.com 25
Left: Short Rib Kao Soi, offered by Taste, highlights slow-braised bone-in short ribs in a spicy curry sauce, topped with crispy egg noodle, fried shallots, green onions and cilantro. Right: The seasonally herbaceous Chiang Mai Martini is a blend of fresh mint and basil leaves, lemon juice, St. Germaine liqueur, and Ketel One vodka. PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
IN IDAHO LIQUOR STORES NOW
DISCOVER BARDENAY
Steadfast in lustful exploration but anchored in true craft. Distilled to perfection and calling for celebration.
Bardenay Distilling Co. An Idaho Distillery Since 1999
THE SPIRITS OF IDAHO
Celebrate Idaho Spirits Month in July with Local Distillers of Excellence
By April Neale
With July as Idaho Spirits Month, the spotlight shines on the Gem State’s rich history of spirits. Our distilleries produce award-winning spirits in nearly every category, all made for sipping, cocktail creating, and even great food pairings at some of Idaho’s most inviting bars and restaurants.
e Idaho State Liquor Division has nothing but good news in their latest annual report: business is booming, and the revenue divided up between cities, schools, and other benefactors is swelling too. is stout economic impact of Idaho’s distilled spirits revenue generated pleases Governor Brad Little, who told the ISLD: “Cities, counties, community colleges, substance abuse treatment programs, and the state in general bene t from the responsible stewardship at the Idaho State Liquor Division.”
Some local heroes making the good pours include “farm-toask” champs Up North Distillery in Post Falls, co-owned by Hilary Mann. “In Idaho we have few cra distilleries,
www.idahomemagazine.com 27
“…it’s about getting the word out that Idaho has fabulous craft distilleries, and getting people to take a second look at us on the shelf…”
PHOTO COURTESY UP NORTH DISTILLERY
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
it’s about getting the word out that Idaho has fabulous cra distilleries, and getting people to take a second look at us on the shelf instead of the big boys, so check us out,” she said. Past awards for them include the 2017 Denver International Spirits Competition netting three Gold Medals—Honey Spirits, Barrel Finished Honey Spirits, and Apple Brandy with even more awards in 2018 and 2019, and 2020. e National Honey Board Spirits gold award for Barrel Finished Honey Spirits, then Sip Northwest Double Gold awards went to their Cask Strength Honey Spirits and Apple Brandy. e Pr%f Awards Double Gold went to their Cask Strength Honey Spirits and 50 Best Honey Spirits Competition Gold was bestowed to their Barrel Reserve Honey Spirits and Barrel Finished Honey Spirits.
Bardenay—made in Boise, Eagle, and Coeur d’Alene—is the rst post-Prohibition restaurant distillery in the USA. eir Idaho distillery restaurants shine with incredible new o erings and a Boise airport location coming soon, as the production manager Josh Malone was sold on the July Spirits Month event and looked forward to it. “Spirits Month is still relatively new, but I think Bardenay has been excited
about what happens during Idaho Spirits Month,” he said. “One of our previous distillery managers helped spearhead the designation, made o cial in 2017 by then-Governor Butch Otter through the
ubiquitous potato. is ingredient is a point of pride and a fact not lost on Idaho’s 44 North Vodka Distillery, where VP of Business Development and Client Relations Jaclyn Padgett has spent the last ten years steering the brand to top-shelf status, citing the potato connection and use of local and Paci c Northwest ingredients to create vibrant avors. “44 North Vodka uses Rocky Mountain spring water for all distilling,” she said. “It creates Idaho Potato Vodka from Burbank and Russet potatoes supplied by Distilled Resources.”
ey also make delectable fruit- avored vodkas made with Idaho mountain huckleberries, Rainier cherries, and Sunnyslope nectarines and is now adding Hagerman watermelons to the lineup.
Idaho Distillers Association. We’re excited about the camaraderie, connecting with the other distilleries. We respect all the other distilleries in Idaho.”
Idaho’s distilleries make hay with our agricultural bounty, especially our
As with any o cial month of celebration, a great event must follow. “ is year will be o cially number four for our SIP Idaho event at the Riverside Hotel for Idaho Spirits Month,” said North Star Spirits Idaho co-founder and SIP Idaho creator Rachelle Kelch. She brokers with spirits from all over, but her heart belongs in Idaho. “I’m particularly partial to Grand Teton Distillery in Driggs, Idaho,” she said. “I love their Huckleberry vodka made in Idaho.”
28 www.idahomemagazine.com
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY PHOTO COURTESY UP NORTH DISTILLERY
PLAN YOUR ESCAPE AT 208.392.9500 | The SpringsId.com Surrounded by Idaho’s mountain beauty, our soak experience is more than just a hot springs. Pool-side beverage service, private pools and hotel accommodations, all in a facility that invites relaxation.
Relaxation awaits.
WINE AND SUNSETS: Vineyards in the Eagle Foothills
By Darby Tarantino
In my years of travel and wine exploration, I’ve always believed in the road less traveled, and in the words of the great Robert Frost, it has made all the difference. The Eagle Foothills AVA, (American Viticulture Area) a sub-AVA of the Snake River Valley, with its unique terroir and high desert terrain, probably isn’t first on your list of wine destinations. In fact, it might just be the “wine” road less traveled in Idaho, but it is not to be missed.
Above: After years of neglect, the vineyard of cab franc that is now part of Rolling Hills Vineyard produces award-winning wine. The Pasculli family diligently worked to revitalize and enrich the soil for continued sustainability.
30 www.idahomemagazine.com
PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ROLLING HILLS VINEYARD
Start your Eagle Foothills wine adventure with Dude DeWalt Cellars, which offers unforgettable views and tantalizing varietals, including their estate Tempranillo—and, if the name itself isn’t cool enough, wait until you hear the story.
Founders Johanna and Trae Buchert, a husband and wife team, grew up in eastern Washington. Trae, a food industry engineer, and Johanna, a deputy prosecutor, both viewed wine as a passion, but set their sights on other careers. After visiting the wine countries of Argentina and Australia, everything changed. They began making wine at home in 2011, then finally, with encouragement from wine-loving friends, decided the time had come.
Dude DeWalt opened for business in early 2020 right before the pandemic, but a little Covid wouldn’t slow them down. They’ve grown exponentially in the last three years, winning accolades from many of the country’s most prestigious competitions, including a recent gold medal from the San Francisco
Chronicle Wine Competition for the 2019 Sheepdog Red; a gorgeous Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend.
Feeling charitable? Their Thin Blue Line Cabernet Sauvignon is exceptional and Dude DeWalt donates $5 of every bottle of this top-tier, cellar-worthy wine to local law enforcement. Pop in and discover the mountaintop oasis of Dude DeWalt and enjoy some remarkable wines.
Just up the hill from Dude DeWalt lies another Eagle Foothills gem. 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards, founded by Martha and Gary Cunningham, was initially a 1,500-acre horse ranch—the vineyards came later, when they convinced their childhood friend and veteran Napa Valley winemaker to move to Idaho and make their wine. Expect the unexpected here, as you arrive to grazing cattle, a tasting salon surrounded by lush green grass, and a neighborhood of birdhouses welcoming you down the gravel drive.
www.idahomemagazine.com 31
The gulch where Dude Dewalt winery sits was named for Clarence “Dude” Dewalt, a sheep foreman who was stabbed during a fight over a woman. Today, the winemakers hope to embody the bold spirit of the land and pioneers who came before. PHOTOS (LEFT) BY KAREN DAY, (RIGHT) COURTESY OF DUDE DEWALT
Corey Sprott, the head winemaker at 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards, knows wine. A Napa High School grad, he also holds a BS in Fermentation Science from University of California at Davis, and has made wine with and for Robert Mondavi Winery, William Hill Winery, Rombauer Vineyards, Napa Cellars, The Wine Group and The Ranch Winery. PHOTOS COURTESY OF 3 HORSE RANCH VINEYARDS
OPEN WED/THUR 12-6 • FRI/SAT 12-8 208.901.3925 • dudedewalt.com
Located in the rugged Eagle foothills, Dude DeWalt Cellars crafts wines that embody the bold spirit of the Idaho landscape and its pioneers. Legendary taste is what we’re creating at Dude DeWalt.
Downtown Nampa's Wine Shop and Lounge swirlwineshopand swirlaglass • swirl-wine-shop-lounge.business.site 114 13th Ave S, Nampa, Idaho 83651 • 208-310-0782 Tuesday 2:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. Wednesday 2:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. Thursday 2:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. Friday 2:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. Saturday 12:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. Sunday 11:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.
Once you arrive, prepare for the intoxicating aromas of pan-seared crab cakes, steak frites, and escargot, because 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards also has a full-service restaurant, which serves food so delicious that it begs for a Michelin Star. You could easily spend the day whiling away long after lunch service has ended, sipping wine and imagining yourself in a bygone era.
Besides estate-grown Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay and many others, 3 Horse Ranch Vineyards is growing Pinot Noir. They’re one of only two wineries in Idaho to attempt this thin-skinned, temperamental varietal, which might seem counterintuitive, said Winemaker and General Manager Corey Sprott, whose tenure includes stints at Robert Mondavi and Rombauer wineries.
Pinot Noir typically thrives in cooler coastal areas, and exposure to Idaho’s extreme summer sun could prove detrimental. But as Sprott points out, because of the sun’s direction during peak growing season—and the vineyard’s proximity in its own little valley on the ranch—it’s quite hidden from the harsh sun, making this the ideal place to grow Pinot Noir. Look for their inaugural vintage of Pinot Noir soon!
How Rolling Hills Vineyard got its name is no secret— nestled in the foothills of Eagle among acres of sprawling Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, and Syrah vines, the Pasculli Family brings a lifelong passion for wine to fruition in southern Idaho. While their vineyard estate is not open to the public, they’ve opened an urban tasting room in Garden City until they can welcome guests to a future estate property in the foothills. But while you wait, you won’t miss the feeling of the open country and expansive hills in the tasting room, which is the epitome of less is more, offering the same charm and sophistication as the estate. It’s cozy too, and visitors should come prepared to experience hospitality at its finest level. Check out the stylish display of wines adorning the perimeter of the room and the collection of silver spittoons holding court behind the bar.
Winemaker and owner Mark Pasculli prides himself on excellence, which has become the family motto. Rolling Hills Vineyard is, at its heart, a family affair. Mark’s wife Lori and their three grown children all play key roles in the operations at Rolling Hills Vineyard.
“One thing is always constant,” Pasculli said. “Quality is key when producing wine. Along with customer service and presentation, these will stand the test of time.” This standard of quality shines in every bottle at Rolling Hills Vineyard; one sip and you’ll see.
Try their beautifully balanced unoaked Chardonnay or the 2020 Azzurro, a Bordeaux-style blend with Merlot, estate Cabernet Franc, and Malbec—or my favorite, their Mascot Blue blend, which benefits Idaho animal shelters. Order a cheese and charcuterie board, made with locally-sourced cured meats and served with a plentiful selection of dried fruits, nuts, vegetables, crackers—which perfectly complements the wine! Don’t miss the upcoming event nights, featuring classic movie favorites, trivia, and even a cigar and wine night!
With winery experiences like these and the entire summer ahead of you, get out there and explore the extraordinary wines and hospitality of the Eagle Foothills’ wineries. Until then, drink well, love often, and stay enlightened. I’ll drink to that!
34 www.idahomemagazine.com
Rolling Hills Vineyard founders Lori and Mark Pasculli carry on a tradition of wine-growing begun by owner Lori’s grandfather. With their grown children, the Pasculli’s manage their vineyard and Garden City tasting room as a family.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ROLLING HILLS VINEYARD
IDAHO, winemaking grandfather. His small and long tradition offering of drinking it as
Family
URBAN TASTING ROOM
MOVIE NIGHT
Every Wednesday 5pm-7pm
BINGO NIGHT
Every Thursday 5pm-7pm
SUMMER EVENTS
CIGAR NIGHT
(in addition to bingo night) 2nd Thursday of the month
MERIDIAN FARMERS MARKET
Every Saturday 9am-2pm
NAMPA FARMERS MARKET
Every Saturday 9am-1pm
CALDWELL FARMERS MARKET
Every Tuesday 5pm-9pm
OPEN WEDNESDAY THROUGH SUNDAY 152 E. 52ND ST GARDEN CITY, IDAHO ROLLINGHILLSVINEYARD.COM
rollinghillsvineyard.com • 152 E. 52nd St., Garden City, Idaho • (208) 948-3136
DINING IN THE HIGH LONESOME
By Dana DuGan
At 6,253 feet, Stanley, Idaho is one high town, surrounded by more than 1,000 miles of untouched wilderness. Living in, or even visiting, this tiny burg is considered roughing it for myriad reasons. The roads are often closed due to avalanches, snow, or fire. A multitude of visitors pass through during the summer months. They might be camping or fishing, attending the Sawtooth Gathering music festival, floating the Salmon, or heading to Redfish Lake, Sun Valley, or Challis. The population hovers at around 100 hardy folks. But thanks to some entrepreneurs, it’s a tiny food paradise.
Owned and operated for the past 20 years by Tim and Becky Cron, the Stanley Baking Co. is a much beloved café with hearty daytime repast. From mid-May through October, the log cabin buzzes with activity. “Someone’s showing up at zero dark thirty to roll the dough,” Tim Cron said.
With little kitchen experience, Becky Cron learned all the baking from another baker. “Now, we have a dozen different baked goods a day along with items from the original menu like
36 www.idahomemagazine.com
Top: The headwaters of the Salmon River, Redfish Lake stretches 4.5 miles long and is named for the sockeye salmon that once returned from the Pacific Ocean in such vast quantities that the water gleamed red.
PHOTO BY KAREN DAY Above: Stanley Baking Co., famed for mountain-size breakfasts and fresh-baked pastries in the town of 82 permanent residents that attracts thousands of tourists all summer.
PHOTO COURTESY OF STANLEY BAKING CO.
Mexican Migas, oatmeal and sourdough pancakes, biscuits and gravy,” Cron continued. “By the second year I was in the kitchen, line cooking for maybe ten years.”
The simple menu morphed after a few years as Becky became more health conscious. Cron said it’s labor intensive because everything is made from scratch but satisfying. “That’s why customers come back. They know us.”
The couple moved up to Stanley from Ketchum for the quality of life. “What drew us here was the cool mountain town with amazing scenery, rivers and mountains. It has a vibe with young, active, mountain people. People want to take advantage of all of that,” he said. “Hopefully, they also want to work hard too. We have a happy staff, and that’s an important part of hospitality. And a well-done espresso—that’s our thing.”
Helping with that “thing” is manager Gina Braden, who oversees a staff of nearly 40. “She’s able to multitask and be a leader of the front of the house team,” Cron said. Their food is both locally sourced and via produce companies in Boise.
In 2009, along with Becky’s sister, Kelli Kerns, the couple bought the Sawtooth Hotel, another log gem in Stanley. Built in 1931, and in need of repairs, they lived and played there for
www.idahomemagazine.com 37
Above: Visitors can enjoy the outside deck and view of the Sawtooth Mountains at the Sawtooth Hotel. PHOTO BY KAREN DAY
Below: A dinner at Limbert’s with an exquisite view of Redfish Lake. PHOTO COURTESY OF REDFISH LAKE LODGE
a few years while renovating. Still feeling entirely authentic, the hotel accommodates a cozy dining room, six guest rooms, and three cabins for rent, plus employee housing. On Friday nights in the season, there’s live music. One can catch Tim Cron himself sitting in with the band, the Pesky Grapeseeds.
“Becky had the vision,” Cron said of renovating and reopening the hotel. The view of the Sawtooth Mountains is unsurpassable.
In the kitchen, Gabe Feuer is the head chef, along with Jessie Rouse. Gabe, who had worked in Los Angeles and had some connection to Sun Valley, created what Cron called a high-quality menu with popular dishes such as pork schnitzel, braised prime brisket, vegetable lasagna and a daily fish special.
“It’s such a fortunate situation,” Cron said. “We love what we do; to live in this great place and employ a great team.”
Down the road a piece at the Redfish Lodge, the lake season attracts daytime visitors, overnighters, campers, weddings, and more. Popular with day trippers, there’s a casual grill outside, with such lunch treats as pulled pork sandwiches and fish tacos. Inside the Lodge is the rustic dining room, Limbert’s, named to honor Robert Limbert, who built the original lodge in 1929 on 16 acres of leased public land.
“We aim to keep his authentic, rustic vision alive,” said Jeff Clegg, who with his wife, Audra, manages the lodge. She is also the daughter of the owners—Arlen and Derrel Crouch, from Jerome.
The Cleggs and the dining room’s Executive Chef Jake Johnson are committed to as much local farm-to-table concept as possible. Everything is made from scratch, Clegg said. Co-Chef TJ Degman handles the catering and is the “magic behind the preparation and plating for the dining room.”
The operators also handle the food at the High Country Inn in Stanley during the winter months.
Clegg described Limbert’s cuisine as “true Idaho brand of comfort food, with a focus on Northwest items such as salmon, trout and wild game.”
The wine list features many wines from the Pacific Northwest. They also serve a deservedly popular breakfast with healthy fruit and house-baked granola, grilled Idaho trout, and chorizo. This summer, look for lunch inside the lodge too. And live music, outside on the lawn, entertains throughout the summer.
“We’ve done a lot over the years,” Clegg said. “For lodging, everything’s been upgraded, and we added seven new units and stand-alone cabins. Last year we did a 100 percent renovation of the kitchen, from foundation to exhaust systems, employee housing, the front lobby, bar, bathrooms, and infrastructure.”
Still charmingly Idaho, these three log buildings with spectacular settings have existed for generations. With upgrades to their dining, the Stanley Baking Co., Sawtooth Hotel, and Limbert’s are creating a healthy and sustainable reality in the hard-toreach—but oh, so worth it—area.
38 www.idahomemagazine.com
A Tradition of Idaho Hospitality and Rustic Adventure redfishlake.com
CHEF GARY KUCY: World Class Chef, Small Town Treasure
Top:
By April Thomas Whitney
Balance. It’s something that all chefs aspire to achieve with their flavors, and something few of them are able to create in their personal lives. Somehow, in a small mountain town in central Idaho, a celebrated chef has managed to master both. Gary Kucy’s journey as a chef has taken him all over the world— through high profile kitchens to tv shows and celebrity events. He’s been on the cutting edge of the culinary scene and earned accolades as a James Beard Award semi-finalist in 2013.
Kucy has been at the helm of Rupert’s restaurant in the historic, lakefront Hotel McCall for 14 years now. He said that a unique combination of community and creative freedom allowed him to hit his stride here—as a chef and a human.
“I try to cook food that people can relate to. Simple, fresh, flavor-forward, approachable, but with an adventurous spin,” said Kucy, who has loved big flavors his whole life. He grew up in the southwest and picked up an appreciation for all types of ethnic foods during his lifelong culinary career. Rupert’s restaurant in McCall features classic, contemporary American cuisine, a delightfully ambiguous concept that allows Kucy and his team to express their creativity.
www.idahomemagazine.com 39
COURTESY OF SAMANTHA SAIS PHOTOGRAPHY
Glorious weather and lake access add to the charm of Rupert’s in McCall. Above: Chef Gary Kucy places a focus on flavor with quality local ingredients. His flair and technique cooking the flavors of the Southwest, Asia, and Mediterranean keep diners coming back and spreading the word of Rupert’s excellent and varied menu.
PHOTOS
Kucy works closely with his purveyors to source the freshest local ingredients he can find. These relationships have led to some of his most popular menu items, which include elk meatloaf and yak momos. Rupert’s regulars keep a keen eye on the daily specials, and Rupert’s hosts “Thai Night” every Thursday, which is a huge hit in a town with a limited variety of ethnic restaurants.
“The Carey family [owners of Hotel McCall and Rupert’s] has been generous in letting me do what I want to do and not put many restrictions or barriers on how I cook, what I cook, how I operate the kitchen,” Kucy said. That generosity has opened the door for everything from ramen and grilled cheese pop-up events to a robust series of wine dinners. Kucy said this allows him and his team to flex their culinary muscles and “do something a little more refined, a little more unique and fresh and maybe something that doesn’t fit on the regular seasonal menu but can showcase fresh or unusual ingredients.”
In a place like McCall, it’s tough to put things like long bone buffalo tomahawk steaks on a regular menu, but they can make an appealing course for a wine pairing. “It gives my staff something to aspire to—they get to see new techniques, new products, things like caviar or foie gras that we don’t use every day,” he said.
Mentoring and supporting his kitchen staff is a high priority for Kucy, even with the high school students who start out as dishwashers. ”If they’re showing initiative, I’ll invest in them. People who are passionate get me excited,” Kucy said. So does providing a unique dining experience for local students. Rupert’s offers special homecoming and prom menus, allowing rural kids to have what is often their first fine dining experience—with a three-course meal priced at just $55 per couple, tax and tip included.
“I wanted to be in a place where I could be part of the community and contribute to the community and not just have a flagship restaurant,” 54-year-old Kucy said. “I really love what I do. I love cooking. I love eating. I’ve worked 80+ hours a week and I’m not interested in that anymore. If I can’t ski or play hockey or coach mountain biking, it’s not worth it to me.”
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Top: Grilled Idaho Elk Chops in a pan reduction sauce dressed with seasonal vegetables. Above: Rupert’s uses the bounty of the local gardens for their seasonal Beet Cocktail served in a rocks glass, garnished with a slice of beet. Below: Himalayan Momos are a steamed local yak dumpling, spiced tomato chutney and garnishes with shaved vegetables. PHOTOS COURTESY OF SAMANTHA SAIS PHOTOGRAPHY
RUPERTSATHOTELMCCALL.COM DINING + DRINKS IN THE HISTORIC HEART OF DOWNTOWN MCCALL FORESTERSMCCALL.COM
LIVING THE BBQ DREAM Kris Ott and the CHOP SHOP
By Bonnie Alexander
When you step inside Chop Shop BBQ in Indian Creek Plaza, Caldwell, the savory scents wafting from the open kitchen, the friendly, attentive staff who appear genuinely happy to see you, and the edgy, but surprisingly comfortable decor promise an elevated dining experience. Kristopher Ott, Chef and Owner, has created his own little piece of restaurant paradise in the most unlikely of places. He said that Caldwell, surrounded by farms and ranches, checks all the boxes for the perfectly sustainable, farm-to-table freshness, and seasonal flavor profiles are reflected in his ever-changing menu. What you may not know is that this BBQ spot is so much more—a transcendent detour into a visionary chef’s take on smoked meats and gourmet sides. As the shop tagline claims, Chop Shop is truly “BBQ and Beyond.”
Raised in California and trained in France, Chef Ott is not only an expert pit-master, but a masterful butcher. Ott’s commitment to eco-conscious business practices is consistent throughout the entire restaurant operation,
embracing everything—from whole animal butchering to take-out containers that turn to compost in 90 days. Chef Ott expresses his love and creativity through feeding people fresh, healthy, and delicious food.
For the all-American purists in BBQ cuisine, Ott delivers classic barbecued meats and vegetables—but look under the hood, as this smoke-house themed restaurant offers so much more. A bite of the smoked salmon crostini— dressed with a touch of caper aioli, minced red onion, radish, and cucumber—will make you think you’ve been transported to the Italian coast. A heavenly side dish, Potato Grenades—reminiscent of Basque croquettes— boast a crunchy exterior and yield a soft, perfectly seasoned potato mixture inside that make the dish truly addictive. Smoked sturgeon with caviar, beef tongue grilled cheese sandwiches, and sweetbread popcorn are but a few daily specials and menu all-star rotations. And, if you haven’t saved room for dessert, take a bread pudding with salted caramel sauce to go.
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Left: Left: Spanish octopus, smoked and sous vide in bone marrow with a chickpea salad, romesco sauce, and spring onion oil.
Right: Chef Kristopher Ott. PHOTOS BY KAREN DAY
Ott’s expertise is also in butchering, an unusual practice for chefs these days. He purchases entire animals from local ranchers and processes the meat from nose-to-tail, salvaging cuts that are often discarded. He does this to ensure the highest quality and freshness of the meat, and to also expose his diners to lesser-known cuts that are transcended with his mastery in smoking and preparation. Ott loves to expose his loyal clientele to cuts that might be outside their comfort zone. And once they sample his specialty meat cuts, they can’t get enough.
Originally, when Chop Shop BBQ opened in 2019, it was designed as a small takeout restaurant with limited seating. Similar to the TV series Cheers, where everyone knows your name, Chef Ott made sure he added an outdoor patio. Wanting this expanded space for the summer, the convivial and cozy spot is now transformed from a parking lot to a lush beer garden— complete with bee and butterfly-friendly plants, herbs, chilies,
edible flowers, and climbing hops. The atmospheric decor provides Chef Ott with a plethora of fresh ingredients for his culinary repertoire, which includes pickling, brining, curing, pate, cheesemaking, and more.
Keeping with Chop Shop BBQ’s sustainability theme, the tabletops inside and out are beautifully repurposed highway caution signs. Colorful graffiti on indoor walls blend nicely with the simple rustic decor. Lucky patrons can sip a cold one while perched on a stool at the small indoor bar which looks out to the lively plaza where couples and families stroll and take in the growing hotspot in Caldwell, a culinary boomtown.
Chef Ott is living his creative culinary dream on his own terms, and his dining devotees are glad that he calls this small town outside of Boise home. He calls it, ”local food for local folks,” but his reputation for serving inventive savory fare in a sustainable, eco-friendly environment is drawing national attention.
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As sustainable as it is satisfying, Chop Shop exists at the intersection of classic and creative. Above: Above: Crispy skin pork belly burnt ends with bourbon maple glaze. Below left: Smoked beef rib with butternut squash mac & cheese. Below right: Shaved vegetable salad with house-made hummus. PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHOP SHOP BBQ
STARTERS
BOB’S BURNT ENDS
TENDER BITS OF BRISKET WITH BBQ SAUCE (AVAILABLE THURS-SAT)
SMOKED WINGS
LOADED FRIES
CREEK FRIES, PULLED PORK, BAKED BEANS & CHEDDAR WITH CHOICE OF SAUCE
COD POPPERS
LIGHTLY BATTERED COD WITH CHOP SHOP SAUCE SMOKED SALMON CROSTINI
CAPER AIOLI, SHALLOT, CUCUMBER, RADISH & DILL
FRIED OKRA
LIGHTLY BATTERED OKRA SERVED WITH RANCH DRESSING
PIT MASTER PLATES
ALL SMOKED MEAT PLATES COME WITH HONEY BUTTERMILK ROLL & ONE SMALL SIDE
1/2 LB PORK SHOULDER
1/2 MARY’S CHICKEN
1/2 RACK PORK SPARE RIBS
1/2 LB BRISKET
PIT MASTER SAMPLER
2 RIBS, 6OZ BRISKET, 6OZ PULLED PORK & HOUSE-MADE SAUSAGE
Hours: Tuesday - Thursday: 11am - 8pm
Friday - Saturday: 11am - 9pm
Location: 716 Arthur Street, Caldwell, Idaho 83605 208-402-6781
Chopshop-caldwell.com
LOOKING FOR LATE-NIGHT FOOD IN THE CITY OF TREES?
We have your back.
By Harrison Berry
In the daylight, Boise dazzles with beloved restaurants, celebrated chefs, and much-anticipated new o erings. A er 10 p.m., kitchens close and options narrow for diners who don’t know where to look. Here’s a list of eateries for the late-arriving travelers, bar-hoppers, and night owls.
Two factors thrust Pie Hole Pizza to the top of this list. Its two Boise locations are among the last restaurants in Boise to turn o the lights, and its potato bacon pizza is the perfect antidote to a hard night on the town, or fuel to keep partiers going for a few more rounds. 1016
Broadway Ave.
Bittercreek Alehouse is a Boise icon any day, any time, serving classics like poutine, the crispy cayenne chicken sandwich and the spicy lamb burger—a magisterial burger with lamb, feta, jalapeños, lettuce and fried onions on a brioche bun—until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Its expansive food and beer menus, bustling atmosphere, and huge patio facing Eighth Street make it one of the most popular spots in town (and the hardest to get a table). 246 N. Eighth St.,
A downtown newcomer, Frondescence is the latest project of Justin Arroues, the creator of the popular food truck e
Void. A witching hour rarity, Frondescence specializes in vegan fare, and its takes on the barbecue “pork” (actually a soy-based protein from San Diego, California-based Uncut) and Sloppy Justin sandwiches are uncannily avorful versions of dishes that inspired them. 103 N. 10th St.,
GravEyard makes some of the best biscuits and gravy in town, but there’s a catch. Operating out of Zen Bento (1000 W. Main St.), this pop-up has no xed hours, but its novel takes on the breakfast staple are worth the wait. Slinging spicy, cheesy, vegetarian and meaty options plus upgrades, its devotees will form a line around the block. Don’t miss the Something Spicy, which has chorizo, chipotle gravy and taters. For more info nd it on Facebook and Instagram at @GravEyard208. Open until 2 a.m.
e premise of Solid, as its name suggests, is simple. ink of an American-style bar and grill, except it’s open until the wee hours of the morning.
e famished and tipsy have found refuge, cocktails, nachos, burgers, and even half of a chicken on a Belgian wa e there since 2010. In the summer months, gather some friends and post up on its giant wraparound patio in BoDo, just a few blocks from the busiest downtown hotspots. 405 S. Eighth St.
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SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
OPEN SEASON! Saturdays at the Market
DAY 46 www.idahomemagazine.com
PHOTOS BY KAREN
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CHEF MANNY MARTINEZ: Chandlers’ boss of beef
By April Neale
Talk to the experts when you want to know how to do something right. In Boise, look no further than Manny Martinez, the Executive Sous Chef at Chandlers Prime Steaks & Fine Seafood, who offers a primer in the best cuts for the home griller. The best part? Chef Martinez says simplicity is the ticket when investing in an excellent beef cut.
Many argue between a dry rub versus more intricate ingredients in a heavy wet marinade. But according to Chef Martinez, you should keep it simple. “Here at Chandlers, we recommend seasoning our Butcher Block steaks with good salt,” he said. “So we don’t use a lot of dry rub mixes or wet marinades. What we do recommend is to invest in the best cuts and just salt and grill. Let the meat shine. We want the guest to taste the
flavor of the meat because, at the end of the day, you want them to know what an excellent, perfectly cooked prime cut tastes like.”
The mystery for many home cooks is the various cuts, what to rely upon, and what differentiates each steak. The differences can be subtle, but they are there. Chef Martinez credits his mentor and friend, Executive Chef Luis Flores, for guiding the menu and creating bullet-proof entrees with their devoted clientele always showing up. The popularity of this steakhouse has yielded a separate retail business called the Butcher Block, where people can order hand-cut steaks with ready-to-heat sides and desserts for the perfect high-end getaway basket for backyard grilling and weekend cabin vacationers.
Chef Martinez loved that their in-house cuts were made portable for
people who wanted a taste of Chandlers on the go. “This is a great way to impress friends and family. What we sell the most through the Butcher Block program are the ribeyes. Popular as they’re uncomplicated, juicy, and big,” he said. “For many, it is a meal for two, depending on how much you eat, right? It also comes with various sides you can select, some choices like creamed spinach, mac and cheese, or potatoes gratin, and desserts. So when you buy these uncooked specialty prime cuts from us, you buy the steak and your whole meal.”
Which means you need to have your A-game ready by the coals. No one wants to spend money on great food only to wobble on the execution, which is where Chef Martinez offers the best advice—create a two-heat zone on the grill, and his preference is charcoal over propane.
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Left: Sous Chef Manny Martinez of Chandlers Prime Steaks | Fine Seafood learned from his mentor, Executive Chef Luis Flores.
Above: The array of hand cut steaks at the Chandlers Butcher Block are packaged perfectly to go.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHANDLERS
LOCALLY OWNED. NATIONALLY KNOWN. Hotel 43 | 981 West Grove Street, Boise | ChandlersBoise.com | 208.383.4300 • jet-fresh seafood • usda prime steaks • premium craft cocktails • Wine Spectator Best Award of Excellence wine list • live jazz sevens nights a week Ah, Shucks With multiple varieties of FRESH PACIFIC OYSTERS you might say we’re a pearl in Boise’s fresh seafood scene.
EXPERIENCE UNIQUE Latin Fusion Cuisine Hand-crafted cocktails 615 W. Main St. • Downtown Boise • (208)519-1213 • coadejimaboise.com