Wedding Trader - issue 26 by Love Our Wedding

Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

New directions TAKING A DIFFERENT APPROACH TO YOUR BUSINESS

ISSUE 26•NOVEMEBER/DECEMBER ’21

Show reviews FROM HARROGATE TO CHICAGO TO BARCELONA

Footnotes SHOES WITH ADDED SPARKLE

Sleeves WITHOUT QUESTION, THE NEW ESSENTIALS

PROU SUPPORDLY TIN BRITISH G BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS

Bridal is back! AND IT FEELS SO GOOD

B AD G L E Y MI S C H K A. C O M

Contents TA L KING P OINT News worth knowing

F I RST P E R SON Laura Daly does the show

E L L IE ’ S PL AC E Making a difference to your reputation

PE TA’ S PIC K Favourite labels and what they have planned

GO R GEO U S GU YS What’s popular right now

T WINKL E TO ES The shoes that get attention – anything but plain

M OV ING PICT U R ES The importance of video in today’s communications

HA R R OGATE BR IDAL A look at the numbers

SECOND OPINION Sue Lovell loves being back

HA R R OGATE H IGHL IGHT S Faves chosen by our retail panel

B EST SELLERS Gowns already pegged as the new season winners

86 C RO SSING OVE R Morilee’s latest recruit come from the retail sector. That’s great news

L ET TE R FR OM AMER ICA Pete Grimes gives a thumbs up from across the pond

BRAVO BAR CELONA Innovative thinking, and global benefits

OUT KINDA TOWN Chicago worked!

MEMBERSH IP MAT T E R S What the `RBA is doibg for its members

PORTFOLIO We bring you the best of boho

MAKING PLANS The styles of wedding in demand today

L EGAL Understanding the landlord/tenant situation resulting from Covid

T RAINING Moving forward in this new world of retail

T EC HNO Says farewell to tradtional phones

AND FINAL LY… You talk, we listen

JESUS PEIRO

contents

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 3

E N ZOAN I . C O M

Ed’s Letter Letter Ed’s

Ed’s Letter

Weddings are back and more appreciated than ever Susi Rogol Weddings are back and appreciated than ever And Having spent the pastmore 18 that months, like you, having before. Business is getting long-needed boost. Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com before. Business is getting that long-needed boost. And meetings on Zoom, chatsthat on Facetime, and photo those soon-to-be-weds this is all about are getting Editor susi@rogol-goodkind.com those soon-to-be-weds that this is all about are getting exchanges on Instagram, this year’s return to the good back and more ready forWeddings their own are next chapter, haveappreciated braved thethan ups ever Susi Rogol ready for before. their next chapter, have braved the ups old days of full-on trade events has been a real reward Business is getting that long-needed boost. And Deputy Editor and downs forown recent months. However difficult the susi@rogol-goodkind.com Deputy Editor and downs for months. difficult for all thatthose patience and, dare I However say, soon-to-be-weds thatnail thisbiting. ishad all about are getting pandemic has been for everyone, it’srecent those couples who have to the deal with Jade Pepperell pandemic has been for everyone, it’sthe those couples who have hadlives, to deal with We’ve heard from so many about release ofnext long-held tensions, the ready for their own chapter, have braved the Jade Pepperell the uncertainties at what should be the most joyous time of their that weups jade@meanttobemedia.com Deputy Editor the uncertainties should bedowns the joyous time new of However their lives, that we sheer excitement of what meeting up with oldmost friends, making ones, touching and for recent months. difficult the need to applaud. at jade@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 07568 069785 pandemic hasrustle been for everyone, it’s those have hadofto deal with need toand applaud. fabrics hearing the models twirled, andcouples seeing the sparkle Jade Pepperell Hearing how retailers have as made the best of the worst ofwho times by looking Mobile: 07568 069785 the uncertainties atretailer what should be the most joyous time ofby their lives, that we Hearing how retailers have made the best of the worst of times looking shimmering beadwork. One reported that for the full three days of the jade@meanttobemedia.com ahead, refusing to be defeated, and using their enforced time out to reneed to ahead,she refusing toapplaud. be defeated, andthe using their time re- year. show completely forgot about trials andenforced tribulations ofout theto past Director evaluate their next step, makes Mobile: 07568 069785 Hearing how retailershad have made the best of the worst of times by looking Director evaluate their nextthe step, makes Another that pandemic her thinking clearly, and better able to you trulysaid appreciate the resilience Andy Allen ahead, refusing to be defeated, and using their enforced time out to reyou truly what appreciate theseeing resilience evaluate she was and what she wouldW beEordering. Andy Allen DDING of this industry of ours. Director evaluate their next step, makes andy@meanttobemedia.com Wattending E D D I shows N G abroad of And this industry of much ours. we’ve had the same story from those andy@meanttobemedia.com New friendships have been you truly appreciate the resilience Andy Allen Mobile: 0785 558 7219 Newparticular friendships have in been – their delight discovering new names and designers who have formed across board and Mobile: 0785 558 7219 WEDDING of thisthe industry ours. andy@meanttobemedia.com formed across the boardof and worked hard throughout the Covid-ridden months, to ensure their latest those relationships – between New friendships have been those relationships – between offering would also be their greatest yet. Mobile:Editor 0785 558 7219 Menswear retailers themselves, andthe also formed across board and Menswear Editor retailers themselves, and also and a new season to look forward to, we have And now, with orders placed between retailers and their – betweenHarrogate those relationships Dominic Bliss between retailers and their to think about protecting ourselves, ourHarrogate Dominic Bliss Editor Menswear themselves, and alsoFACE-TO-FACE, suppliers –retailers have created a fresh dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com suppliers – have created astaying fresh safe by FACE-TO-FACE, businesses, our staff, and FROCK-TO-FROCK W E D D I N G dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com between and their FROCK-TO-FROCK working model thatretailers is setting the Dominic Bliss Harrogate Opinion working model that–ishave setting the observing guidelines. It is vital thatawe pull Opinion suppliers created fresh FACE-TO-FACE, stage moving forward. SHARING VIEWS, dominic.bliss@btopenworld.com Wedding FROCK-TO-FROCK stage moving forward. together today more thanthat ever before to SHARING VIEWS, EXCHANGING @WeddingTraderUK working setting Wedding the Wedding Tradermodel is proud toisbe Opinion @WeddingTraderUK EXCHANGING IDEAS, WORKING Safe Wedding Trader is proud to be ensure an stage always-improving tomorrow. IDEAS, WORKING moving forward. @WeddingTraderMag SHARING VIEWS, TOGETHER Safe part of that equation. We are here THE ESSENTIAL Wedding @WeddingTraderMag TOGETHER EXCHANGING @WeddingTraderUK part of that equation. We areishere INDUSTRY Show Trader proud toTHE beESSENTIAL IDEAS, WORKING @ weddingtrader to share, andWedding to support. Safe INDUSTRY New STANDARD reviews TOGETHER @weddingtrader @WeddingTraderMag to share, and parttoofsupport. that equation. We are here STANDARD THE ESSENTIAL directions FROM HARROGATE weddingtradermag.com INDUSTRY TO CHICAGO TAKING A DIFFERENT PROUDTO weddingtradermag.com @ weddingtrader to share, and to support. LY BARCELONA APPROACH TO YOUR STANDARD SU PR PP O

Trader Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE 25• SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ’21

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE 25• SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER ’21

Trader WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

The trends The trends to know to knowTheFootnotes trends about about to know GET READY FOR GET FOR THE READY NEXT BIG about THE NEXT BIG BUSINESS

SHOES WITH ADDED SPARKLE

EDITOR EDITOR EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND ROGOL-GOODKIND EDITOR SUSI SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

THINGS IN BRIDAL Sleeves GET READY FOR THINGS IN BRIDALWITHOUT QUESTION, THE NEXT BIG THE NEW ESSENTIALS THINGS IN BRIDAL

ISSUE 26•NOVEMEBER/DECEMBER ’21

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Brides are back! back! Brides back! Bridal isare back! AND SO IS WEDDING TRADER AND SO IS WEDDING TRADER SO GOODTRADER ANDAND SOIT ISFEELS WEDDING Cover image: It doesn’t get better Cover image: doesn’t get better Cover It image: It doesn’t get better Cover image: It doesn’t get better than this! this! Gown byMartin Martin Thornburg than Gown than this!by Gown byThornburg Morilee than this! Gown by Martin Thornburg

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TEAM TALK TEAM TALK TEAM TALK TEAM TALK Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: Andy Allen Art Director Meant To Be Media Ltd also publish: Andy Allen Art Director Andy Allen Art Director “Learning what the top wedding Andy Allen Art Director planners are “It is great to be back, and right in time for “It is great to is begreat back, right in time for being asked for gives clear idea ofright weddings “It toaand be back, and in time for thethe Harrogate Bridal Show. Look Look forward forward the Harrogate Bridal Show. of nearthe future.. ” (p82) Harrogate Bridal Show. Look forward to seeing you there. ” (p42) to seeing you there.you ” (p42) to seeing there.” (p42) Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding Jade Pepperell Pepperell Love Oursuch Wedding Jade Love Our Wedding “Being in Harrogate was aOur glorious Jade Pepperell Love Wedding WeddingWedding Traderisispublished published by: “I’ve loved reading about readers’ Wedding Trader by: Trader is published by: “I’ve lovedsmiles, reading about readers’ “I’ve lovedSo reading about readers’ highlight. many and all those MeantTo ToMeant BeMedia Media Ltd, To Be Media Ltd, Meant Be Ltd, experiences during lockdowns and how experiences during lockdowns experiences during lockdowns and howand how 77Derbyshire stunning collections.” (p14) Derbyshire Road, Manchester 7 Derbyshire Road, Manchester Road, Manchester determination wins out” out”wins out” M401QN. 1QN. Tel:1QN. 0161Tel: 6810161 1771 determination determination wins M40 681 1771 M40 Tel: 0161 681 1771 weddingtradermag.com weddingtradermag.com weddingtradermag.com meanttobemedia.com meanttobemedia.com meanttobemedia.com

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TALKING POINT More news – and new products that make the wedding world so special

The pride of New York, and always fast to dazzle the design senses, Reem Acra has brought together rich textiles, embroidered laces, and handmade embroideries in her Bridal Love and Dream collection for 2022.

LOTS OF LOVE You almost certainly saw Rebecca Baddeley of the Halesowen store, The Dressing Rooms, at Harrogate, and discovered she was there selling. She’s been retailing private label Lux & Love for some four years in TDR, under the name Rebecca’s Choice, and was asked to become the company’s UK agent. Her husband, Lawson, stepped into those shoes and is heading up sales in the UK, Ireland and Europe. The gowns are spot on in fashion terms and impeccable in 6 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

quality and make. Best of all, a store can sell them for whatever they like, (TDR retails them at a minimum X 4 margin and sometimes even X 10). There is no undercutting as images are not permitted online, which protects stockists from the bride who shops around for the best price. Want to know more? Lawson can be contacted on 07725 478569 or by email at uk@luxandlovedesigns.com. And yes, Rebecca did her Harrogate shop. She bought Lux & Love, of course, and Ellis.

WEDDINGFLATION

One of our favourites from the latest collection from Herve Paris is Alize, RRP £1,450. This is a ‘see it and fall instantly in love’ kind of dress.

FEET FIRST One for the fellas. Duke + Dexter’s bespoke service make the big day extra special with their unique designs. From custom hand painted works of art to embroidery options across all their styles, a truly one-of-a-kind shoe for a groom and groomsmen can be created – the possibilities are endless. More info about Duke + Dexter’s wedding bespoke service at www.dukeanddexter.com

According to Norton Finance, who is seeing an increase in interest in loans to fund the big day, the average UK wedding costs between £18,000 and £32,000, and couples could be forking out an extra £1,000 to get married this year, due to record inflation rates and pent-up demand after almost a year and a half without nuptials. Here are the top wedding trends that brides, grooms, and wedding guests can look forward to in 2022. Macro weddings. It’s back to big old school receptions and a move away from intimate ‘minimonies’ of lockdown. Thanks to triplejabbed, 50-plusers, and acceptance of preceremony Covid testing etiquette, big weddings are likely to find their way back into thediary next year. Sequel Weddings. Many couples are plumping for ‘part two’ of their day and celebrating with friends and family like it’s 2019. Wedding Weekenders in the UK. There’s little chance of a return to pre-pandemic destination weddings abroad. You’re more likely to get an invite to a British Isles-based weekender in 2022 instead. Great for keeping the carbon footprint manageable too. Sustainable Weddings. Green credentials are reaching every aspect of wedding planning, and some are money-saving, too. Grooms have been renting morning suits for years, but the trend’s finally reaching brides, hitting the press thanks to brides like Carrie Symonds who rented her £2,830 wedding dress for £45 last year. When it comes to minimising single-use plastic, 2022’s couples are likely to be shunning the likes of plastic confetti and crockery, instead hiring tableware, using eco-friendly table-scaping, and keeping invites and thankyou’s online to reduce waste. Outdoor venues are likely to be a feature for big events for as long as Covid is still around.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 7

VALLY – A SUPER-STAR FROM VICTORIA JANE Here’s the definitive princess gown, the one that wedding day dreams are made of. The open scoop neckline is inspired by Bridgerton, which is bringing Regency era elements into bridal and mainstream fashion looks. A beaded tulle bodice, pocketed skirt, and detachable long sleeves feature, and there’s a detachable modesty bodice for brides who want a bit more cover. Vally comes in ivory/nude or ivory/ivory and in UK sizes 6 to 30. RRP is £1,850. www.ronaldjoyce.com

8 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021

CURVY NUMBERS South African designer Elbeth Gillis has launched a delicious capsule collection for 2002 – just five gowns focusing on the female shape and celebrate curves. Sensational sleeves, collars, bows and overskirts can be added to superbly-cut basic shapes, allowing a bride to get fully involved in designing her special gown. Shown here is Charlotte, a strapless gown in Mikado, with hidden pockets and a side front slit, worn with an off-the-shoulder collar. Email sales@elbethgillis.com for details.

H AT S ON Hitting headlines, an enchanting hat from Poirier’s Festival Collection, from Jupon. In ivory or vintage pink, it has its own polkadot veil. The style number is HT-103. Check it out at www. jupon.com

FLORAL THEMES Flowercard has been researching which flowers have been most searched for in 2021 for bridal bouquets. Here’s the top ten: 1 Poppies 2,930,500 2 Peonies 2,302,700 3 White Roses 1,172,500 4 Hydrangea 2,081,600 5 Daffodils 1,797,600 6 Lavender 1,515,400 7 Orchids 1,403,600 8 Dahlias 1,352,500 9 Chrysanthemums 1,216,500 10 Foxgloves 1,203,800 Now this should inspire you when it comes to instore display...

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2021 ♦ WEDDING TRADER ♦ 9

RO M A N T I C A Please contact sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information about becoming a stockist. www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

tempt me! However, reviewing what we actually did buy, and the new label we managed to snaffle, we left Harrogate with a sense of optimism that we’d not felt for the past 18 months or so. We’d been sensible, lucky, inspired and we’d socialised more in four days than we had in the year gone by... I considered the whole trip a huge success. A big but… What I hadn’t intended to pick up from Harrogate was Covid, but the universe had other plans for me and, by the time I was home, I was well and truly consumed by the virus. Cue several positive tests, ten days in bed and a loss of smell and taste that still stubbornly refuse to return. Too poorly to work but still able to think, I spent a lot of my time in isolation going over the days I’d been in Harrogate, and trying to decide if it had been busy or not, to what level it had been a success in terms of written-up sales, and where our industry looked like it was heading. The complete lack of foreign buyers meant that the halls were certainly quieter than past years, but there seemed to be a huge representation of UK shops happily mingling, chatting away, and (although seriously wondering if you’re still cut I know it’s hard to imagine) clogging ’d intended to come back from out for the job of spotting winners. up the bars, so it appeared to be very Harrogate this year content in Happily, this year I think I managed much business as usual. the knowledge that I’d placed Whether or not all sensible orders and not let myself to swerve that particular this action translated be swayed by the fashion-forward into signed orders, creations to which we all occasionally bridal-shopI’m really, really hoping lady trap. In I’m not sure, although succumb (if you know, you know – if that when we reconvene most of the buyers part, owing to you don’t, then well done for always having been being sensible; you are my hero). in London Excel, we’ll find I spoke to had been there on more spending. By fashion-forward I mean the some new avenues to than one There was a ones that you tell yourself will be occasion, and definite feeling marvellous ‘for the window’, the explore and something to of ‘making up for already having daring transparent ones that looked the t-shirt (and great on the model and promised capture the imagination of lost time’ as far the dress, of as socialising was your boutique all the trendy vibes, both buyers and brides concerned, but were with their backless, unlined, unboned course). In part. it was down to the wholesalers continental chicness. The very same my manager’s hawk-eye and clever busy? My impression was that the gown that once tried on in a size 16 boss-wrangling abilities, and in part, stands that are traditionally inundated on a grey winter’s day in the UK is more likely to have you (and the poor because there was, if truth be known, were seeing business as usual, but that some of the European companies bride brave enough to have tried it on) very little sufficiently ‘different’ to

First Person Back from Harrogate, Laura Daly of Bellissima Weddings reviews what she got absolutely right!

12 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

Get connected with the UK’s most exciting, passionate, wedding industry magazine

looked quieter. I sincerely hope that this wasn’t the case, but it’s not unreasonable to wonder if there is a little uncertainty about dealing with post-Brexit importing, VAT payments and customs clearing. So what’s new? As far as new styles went, well. it was a right pick-&-mix, with several different flavours on offer. Some designers had carried on where they’d left off and were offering more of the same; some had backed a more traditional look; some had gone for more colour. But no-one had really decided to go out on a limb and lead bridal into new pastures. This year, I think as an industry we’ll all get away with it as our new customers have been in the unusual position of taking their inspiration from real life brides who are only now managing to get married, and who are sporting designs purchased 18 months to three years ago – thus still very much in a backless lace sheath with a long train – but it’s not going to be long before we’ll need some really fresh looks. There was a moment when we reopened that we thought brides were returning to a more traditional look, but that demand seems now to have evaporated, and it’s only a matter of time before we are going to have to roll out something special and new. So, did Harrogate deliver this year? Well, yes, sort of, but we need now to see change. I’m really, really hoping that, come next spring, when we all reconvene in London Excel, we’ll find some new avenues to explore and something to capture the imagination of both buyers and brides. Ideally, these gowns will be different, yet wearable and, on a grey and rainy Essex morning, bring a little magic to all, from a size 6 to a size 16. Because, when it all boils down, that’s our business, isn’t it? Delivering a touch of wonder with beautiful gowns... and I’m really not sure how many more lace fishtails can do the trick!

Avoid blurring the professional and the personal when running your business It’s a hard ask to be a leader and a friend, isn’t it? As with your customers, you should always avoid

extreme crossing over of the two;

neither too bossy a boss, nor best

Trader Trader Trader WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE ELEVEN • DECEMBER ’18

Survivial of the fittest

Dressing with dash

PROUDL SUPPOR Y TIN BRITISH G BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS

WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE? OPINIONS, ADVICE AND HARD-HITTING FACTS

WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

ISSUE TWELVE • JANUARY ’19

Repeat performance

IS IT TIME TO RETHINK YOUR BUSINESS STRATEGY?

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION MAKING THE MOST OF WHERE YOU ARE

FAMOUS FACES THE VALUE OF HAVING BIG NAMES ON BOARD

BEST SELLERS CHOSEN BY THE BEST

HAT TRICKS OUR PICK OF CROWNING GLORIES

PROUDL SUPPOR Y TIN BRITISH G BRIDALW RETAILE EAR RS

BLOG IT LEARN FROM THE ABSOLUTE BEST

HAIR VINES CHECK OUT OUR FAVOURITES

OUR GUIDE TO THE PRETTIEST PROM FROCKS

Letter from America

New York

DISCUSSION: SHOULD YOU SHOW PRICES ON YOUR WEBSITE?

GET READY TO BUY THE BEST – WE TELL YOU WHERE AND WHEN

More winners

WHAT THE LATEST BUDGET MEANS TO YOUR BUSINESS

VALENTINE’S DAY WILL IT DELIVER A WAVE OF NEW BRIDES?

Show business

DOING IT ABROAD THE DESTNATIONS THAT ARE IN DEMAND

SAYING “I DO” AGAIN AND AGAIN JEWELLED HEELS... SIX OF THE ABSOLUTE SPARKLING BEST

ISSUE THIRTEEN • FEBRUARY ’19

Assessment

MEET ANNY LIN AND HER UNIQUE MIX OF FASHION FLAVOURS

PETER GRIMES FROM VOWS JOINS THE WT TEAM

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THE STARS AND THE SHOW STOPPERS

WEDDING

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06/11/2018 09:56

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WEDDING

ISSUE 14 • MARCH/APRILWEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM ’19

Showtime BIG AND BOLD OR EXCLUSIVE AND INTIMATE... WHICH SHOW IS FOR YOU?

INTRODUCING THE WHAT THE PERFECT COUPLE TRADE ASSOCIATIONS CAN DO FOR THEIR MEMBERS

David’s Bridal

OH KNICKERS! WHAT GOES UNDER THAT BEAUTIFUL DRESS

ISSUE SIX • JULY ‘18

May I have a discount?

ADDING EXTRAS TO YOUR OFFERING THAT WILL PULL IN NEW BUSINESS

NOW IS THE TIME TO SAY NO

TAKING STOCK WANT IT QUICK? WE’VE FOUND THOSE WHO CAN DELIVER

BUILDING A LUXURY BRAND FIRST, GET YOUR PRIORITIES IN PLACE

Harrogate

SNEAK PEEK AT THE NEWEST TRENDS

Get togethers

ENTER THE NEW-AGE BOYS’ ZONE

Jenny Packham

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

Changing the game plan

BLUSHING BRIDES OUR GUIDE TO THE BEST OF THE PINKS

GROOM SERVICE

BREXIT THE POSSIBLE POSITIVES FOR BRIDAL

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WEDDING

PROUD SUPPO LY RTI BRITIS NG BRIDAL H WEAR RETAILERS

WINNERS! WHAT IT FELT LIKE ON THE BIG NIGHT

WILL ITS REPRIEVE HURT THE INDUSTRY?

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ISSUE TEN • NOVEMBER ’18

Justin & Savannah

DESIGNER SPEAK THE BRITPACK TALK ABOUT FORTHCOMING TRENDS

04/12/2018 10:33

With mic in hand

WORKING WITH OTHER SERVICE SUPPLIERS

CAROLINE CASTIGLIANO ON BEING A ROYAL COMMENTATOR

Trader Trader Trader

AND WORKING WITH DESSY

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WEDDING

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SEEING RED Our pick of the hot new numbers that everyone will want

Private i A BIG BITE OF APPLE SECURITY

JAMES BOND... KILLER GOOD LOOKS

White Gallery preview time

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WEDDING

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ISSUE 19 • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

PROUD LY SUPPOR TIN BRITISH G BRIDAL WE RETAIL AR ERS

Doing something different RETAILERS MAKING THEIR MARK

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

SHARING OPINIONS, EXPERIENCES, VISIONS OF THE FUTURE

New chapters STARTING OVER IN THE BRIDAL BUSINESS

Brand awareness THE LABELS THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE

11/06/2018 10:43

WEDDING

09/10/2018 13:40

ISSUE 20 • MARCH/APRIL ’20

I t’s buying time WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE BIG SHOWS

PRO SUPPOUDLY RTING BRI BRIDA TISH LW RETAIL EAR ERS

WEDDINGTRADERMAG.COM

OPINIONS

RETAILERS’ SHARED FEELINGS, FEARS AND FORWARD THINKING

Well trained

GETTING READY FOR OPEN DOORS

Looking ahead

WHAT THE TOP WEDDING PLANNERS ARE EXPECTING

ISSUE 21 • MAY/JUNE ’20

Coming together NOW WE ARE WORKING AS ONE

PRO SUPPOUDLY RTING BRI BRIDA TISH LW RETAIL EAR ERS

THE NEW ‘NORM’ WHAT LIES IN STORE?

CHARGEBACKS... A WORD OF WARNING

BREXIT OKAY, SO WHAT HAPPENS NEXT?

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TO WOR K WIT H U S, CONTACT: Andy Allen andy@meanttobemedia.com Mobile: 0785 558 7219

Editor Susi Rogol susi@rogol-goodkind.com

Finally, it feels that the gap has been bridged and suppliers and retailers are all on the same page, working and talking together. Susi and the fabulous team have recognised this in abundance and created a monthly handbag explosion of fascinating insight, construction opinions, hints, tips and captivating reads. Truly inspirational! Jeanette Stevens, Managing Director, Enzoani Europe W ED D I N GTRAD ERMAG.CO M N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 13

HARROGATE BRIDAL SHOW... The numbers add up beautifully

Party time - who, when, where: The party started on Sunday night with the Gala Fashion Show performance. More than 700 buyers watched the show and enjoyed a glass of fizz alongside the participating exhibitors. Monday night followed with a party to celebrate Bridal Buyer’s 30th anniversary, which was attended by advertisers and contributors – many margaritas were consumed, and then followed some interesting dance moves! 14 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

Number of catwalk shows: Four over two days. It was amazing to see the Gala Performance on the Sunday night return with a full theatre and lots of excited buyers!

Number of models on stands: Over 150

Number of glasses of wine consumed: More than 2,000 glasses of wine and fizz... buying can be thirsty work.

Number of collections showing: Over 300

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Number of Covid tests sorted for visitors: Over 100. A special mention to the overseas exhibitors who had to organise their Day 2 Covid tests, and to the Amsale ladies who had to drive to Leeds when their postal ones did not show up!

Number of visitors and from where: Around 4,000, mainly UK, but also Irish and Scandinavian retailers, and one from Lithuania!

Late nights because orders were still being written: The show didn’t close until nearly 7pm on Monday as business continued. 16 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

2372

Second Opinion Putting aside all our Covid fears, Harrogate happened! It actually happened, and it was bloomin’ brilliant to be back. Sue Lovell enjoyed almost every minute

he first morning, as long queues formed, it was so lovely to see people chatting excitedly, so glad to be back, eager to see what was on offer, and thankful to meet up with our friends and colleagues again.

It’s been an eternity, and finally we were back together. We survived! Getting our Covid passports ready to be inspected, some of us with masks in hand, we lined up, got our lanyards, showed absolutely no-one our proof of vaccinations, put our masks away, and got on with doing Harrogate. It was business as usual.

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Covid be dammed. It felt liberating, even exhilarating to be back in the beautiful world of bridal, where hugs and kisses have been alien for so long, and a squeeze from a bridal shop comrade in arms felt good. It felt like home. For a few glorious hours, that rolled into a few days, the Covid

to offer a sincere apology and a full relevant. We have to be innovative, creative and lead the way; if we don’t, refund. That damages our reputation, our confidence and our cash flow we will just become a follower. forecasts. We have to restore that We need to know where we are confidence. heading, find ways of getting there, and invest in the future of this industry. Learning lessons Seeing sustainability in an industry I personally was disappointed to see a renowned for its ‘one day’ use is lack of suit hire companies exhibiting inspiring, and needs to become the at Harrogate this year; that doesn’t rule, not the exception. Shining instill confidence going forward. But Propress handheld steamers with The bright lights and glorious stands I was also pleasantly surprised to the power of bigger machines will were just what we needed to see. see other companies that have let both reduce running costs, and help After two tough seasons, we wanted down so many shops and their brides. eliminate virus. Especially useful sparkle, because as an industry, we They knew they have a lot of very when we are dealing with one dress need to sparkle. This industry needs disappointed and angry customers, that needs a steam. Keeping an to exude excitement, inject joyful but they came anyway, and faced eye on the carbon footprint without anticipation into our shops, because the criticism, compromising after almost two years of uncertainty, and also showed on quality can be it is time to shine. Learn the lessons from that they were found in many Brides are ready to plan, and for the areas. whether they want a sophisticated 2020/21 – order early, sell planning future, and that Obviously, understated dress, or a dazzling suppliers and statement gown, the one thing every from stock, ensure terms and says something. Because all of us, bride has in common is that they want buyers are all conditions are very clear, whether supplier an experience – to try on and to enjoy looking to the future with and to bring the focus back to her, to and try to prepare for every or stockist, have faced unforeseen confidence. We the wedding day, and to the dress. eventuality problems. Our shops are going to be beacons all understand These are that we have to of light, glittering and gorgeous and not normal times, and I think we work together to make this happen. full of positivity. The gowns on offer We plan for success, and we deal with can all appreciate that sometimes are definitely meeting the wants and there is absolutely nothing that can disappointment. needs of tomorrow’s brides. They are There have been some major supply be done to avoid a terrible situation. joyful, they are fabulous and they are a clear signal that weddings are back, issues this year, with bridesmaids and Covid happens. But facing up to that, acknowledging that there have bold and bright and to be celebrated. suits being affected in particular. To been supply issues and reassuring get a call from a supplier to say that customers that steps are being taken what was ordered in plenty of time, is Forward-thinking now not going to be delivered at all, is to ensure this won’t happen next year I particularly loved how some – well that in itself is commendable. designers are embracing sustainability like a physical punch in the stomach. You can’t do that if you don’t show up! Someone on the end of the phone and are looking into how we can And I get it. It costs a lot to be an may hear our anguish, but they cannot reduce waste. Does a dress really possibly know what it is like to deliver exhibitor, to fund and staff a stand, need four labels, can we recycle and businesses have been hit hard, that news to a bridal / grooms party more elements, are there ways less but confidence in certain sectors face to face. water can be used in producing the has been rocked, and needs to be As shop owners, we are expected materials we need to create a dress? restored. Accountability, explanations to have a Plan B, we are expected to For designers to take their have an answer, and we are expected and acknowledgments that there responsibilities to both the have been serious issues, a lack to refund and compensate when environment and consumer is so of communication and a lack of an we can’t offer either. So owners encouraging. Looking ahead, rather understanding of how shops and their have worked together, and begged, than just filling an immediate or customers have been affected, both borrowed, swapped and sobbed shortsighted need, is where we all with damage to reputation as well into our pillows at night to find a need to be heading. Thinking of how as financial damage. Apologies and solution, because no one wants to we can adapt to the environmental re-assurance that lessons have been let a customer down. But sometimes changes that consumers will be learned – that is what is needed. there is no alternative, other than demanding is how we stay fresh and threat that has dominated our lives for so long, didn’t seem to exist. Bars and restaurants were busy; we ate, laughed and were merry. We have learned to live with it, adapt our daily routines, and although we are still navigating the impact of Covid, we have to look to the future.

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Many shops have had to refund huge amounts, and have had very hard and upsetting conversations with distraught and often furious customers, and that has devastating effects, and I am not convinced that this is fully understood by some suppliers. If they were there, perhaps I could have asked them. So while this year HBS was a huge success for everyone – I’m sure, it certainly felt a triumphant return – we do have to remain both positive and cautious. Boris has not given us huge confidence that further lockdowns will not take place over the winter months. We have to move on, adapt and have a few Plan Bs, Cs and Ds up our sleeves. We have to have confidence, in both supplier and customer, we have to trust in the economy, that we will be able to trade fully. We have to buy and look to the future, because right now that’s all we’ve got. If we stop buying, if we hold off for another year, there won’t be the

to prepare for every eventuality. It’s exhausting, but we now know that when we are in a crisis, we can turn to our industry colleagues, and we will find a way, an alternative or, if nothing Communication is vital else, a shoulder. Social media posts from across Mask wearing, social distancing, the industry have been incredible, hand sanitising – that has to be part of showing our customers that we our daily life for a while yet. We owe are here, excited and prepared for it to our customers to keep them safe another year of uncertainty with and protect them and their day, as confidence. We are better prepared. much as we can, We have shown up, stepped up and I didn’t live up to that example f’d up at times, but not without taking responsibility, learning and educating during at the show. I wasn’t thinking about Covid at all once I walked ourselves. through the doors. It was just a thrill to Covid is here to stay, many of us brought it home from Harrogate. It will be back, to hug my friends, to laugh now inevitably spread through families out loud, to drink to eat and be normal for once. It felt comfortable, natural and staff again, weddings are still being cancelled because of it, people and good to think about buying, rather than masks and the miseries of Covid. are still getting sick, and we still But as my Mum used to say, on haven’t quite got our heads around more occasions than should have how to stop the spread. been necessary (I was obviously a But what we can do is learn all the very slow learner), “you won’t get out lessons from 2020/21 – order early, of this mess with that attitude, lady” sell from stock, ensure terms and and we won’t, not yet. conditions are very clear, and try choice for our customer. We will limit our own possibilities, and in turn create further issues.

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E LYS E E B R I DAL . C O M

EMMA HARTLEY E M M A H A R T L E Y B R I D A LW E A R 1 Meeting up with our wonderful reps and designers who greeted us with hugs and Prosecco. 2 Team Emma Hartley together for the first time in months. Those girls had me in hysterics all day. During lunch they told me how appreciated they all felt, and I told them how much their support had helped me during the past 18 months. This led to a lovely spontaneous group hug, which was a very special moment. 3 Being VIPs, it was so nice to be able to take a break whenever we needed and the refreshments were very much appreciated. 4 We found a stunning jumpsuit on Casablanca Bridal, which we are super excited about. (BL375 Willow ) 5 At Randy Fenoli, we found and loved Charlie, with its detachable ethereal cape. 6 Nicola Anne excelled herself with a gorgeous range of jackets and overskirts. We absolutely loved the Impulsive shrug and Francie skirt. 7 Also at Nicola Anne, we couldn’t resist the gorgeous dress appropriately called Bohemia. It had the dreamiest detachable sleeves and we think our brides are going to fall head over heels in love. 8 We loved the new designs from The Empty box, and were starry eyed over the new solar design. 9 My girls love hair accessories and couldn’t resist trying them all on! We chose some stunners from Richards Designs. CP367 and CP359 stood out as perfect to match the dresses we had ordered. 10 The drinks reception. Chatting to our industry chums before the fabulous fashion show was the perfect end to a very enjoyable and successful buying trip. C359 BY RICHARD DESIGNS

HARROGATE HIGHLIGHTS We asked five retailers who regularly contribute to Wedding Trader what made this Harrogate Bridal Show truly special. This is what they had to say... 22 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

C H R I S T I N E S K I LT O N LOVE YOU FOREVER 1 Taking part in the Bridal Buyer’s Advice Clinic. 2 The Maggie Sottero stand and fashion show. 4 Meeting up with Get Savvy members. 5 Meeting up in person rather than on Zoom. 6 The Harrogate hustle and bustle. . 7 Sign-up of a very exciting, private label new designer. 8 Taking a picture with a McLaren supercar. 9 S eeing my daughter having fun showing off her catwalk skills. 10 Having a ‘Five Guys’ burger for the first time!

SHARON McPHERSON O P U S AT E L I E R A N D OPUS COUTURE 1 T aking my staff to the runways, instead of making them happen. 2 We went to buy square necklines / long sleeves / and plain fabrics. Tick. 3 Meeting good friends, getting good advice, and sharing industry stories, with Prosecco. 4 Finding the finer details for our brides.

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SLEEVE STORY Daisy, from the Mark Lesley collection, is a real star. So much detail

ANDREW PEARCE C R E AT I Q U E S 1 D aisy by Mark Lesley, with its little capped puff sleeve and beautiful daisy lace. Sleeves are going to be big next season. 2 W innie from the Rebecca Ingram collection, a oneshouldered gown with soft lace beaded appliqués. 3 N orivana by Sottero & Midgley, incredible in black, ivory and nude… the ultimate in a statement gown. 4 A ndrea by Eliza Jane Howell… the beadwork on this gown is insane. 5 M eeting up with friends, of course – it was lovely seeing all the members of the RBA at their drinks event, after months of seeing so many of them on Zoom. Saying hello to Hayley from the Bridal Collection and Becky from Bromley Brides. 6 T he bespoke hangers from Hanger World – we’ve just to count how many we need, and we shall be placing our order. 7 Twilight new headpieces and veils. 8 M eeting David Emanuel. We had a very long chat with him about bridal; such an interesting man to talk to. He signed my Diana book, and I was very touched that he did. 9 T he only thing we didn’t have time for was to go round the show, it was a fleeting visit, but it was good to be back. 10 Can I also say a big thank you to Jenny and Kirsty from Maggie Sottero; they know why.

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SEE THAT BEADWORK Fabulous, and as only Eliza Jane Howell can do

MARIA MUSGROVE THE PANTILES BRIDE 1 Texture: Lots of lovely 3d applique on skirts. We’d seen this with Suzanne Neville back in June and at Harrogate with Jesus Peiro and with Amsale. Lovely appliqué on organza - very feminine and dreamy. 2 Customisation: Many brides want to make changes to their gown eg longer/shorter train, and Maggie Sottero have recently introduced a personalisation programme and this was showcased at Harrogate.

JESUS PEIRO

3 Marina from Paul Zeni excels at her bespoke offering taking it one step further with changes in necklines, raising lowering the back and a full made to measure service. Awesome at her pricepoint and very reasonable prices for the changes making for a good mark up even on changes, and yet still affordable for the bride. 4 Diversity: Many more plus sizes on offer particularly impressed with Bridal Collective. 5 Sleeves: Lots of them from lacy and long to floaty and full. No brand springs to mind at Harrogate but the week after we were blown away by Sassi Holford’s ‘Love Conquers All’ 2022 collection showcased at her Fulham Road boutique. 6 Square necklines: Jesus Peiro’s were standout square necklines, to add to those seen with Suzanne Neville’s Nova collection, 7 Second dresses: Bring it on. Let’s sell two gowns to the same bride, and not because she’s gone off her first, or doesn’t fit it after the Covid kilos, or the Lockdown Baby! 8 Amsale’s Little White Dress collection had some great pieces retailing around £150 to £300. My ‘off button’ was that they sell online, so I took a rain check! 9 Veils: The longer and the more appliquéd the better, and all adding to the average spend per bride! Richard Designs, as always, had some great pieces.

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Dare to be diﬀerent. For more information on becoming a stockist, please email rob@moncheri-bridals.co.uk.

www.martinthornburg.com

TH E WE D D I N G T RA DER GUIDE TO

The Best Sellers Orders placed, delivery dates arranged - we checked out with the designers and manufacturers which gowns from their 2022 collections are the current stand-out winners

ANGELA BIANCO From the Soul Collection, style 1049, in chiffon and lace, with beautiful detail on the bodice and tiny cap sleeves. UK sizes 6-28, plus sizes also available.

DANIELA DIMARINO Style 6350 from the Incanta collection features long detachable shoulder ‘wings’. Also available with a plain tulle skirt. UK sizes 6-28.

DIANE LEGRAND This flowing organza ballgown, style 7838, has cross-bodice pleating and a sparkling belt. It comes in the palest pink, or ivory. UK sizes 4-30.

Rob Bevington Agencies +44 (0)7852 999079 monicaloretti@outlook.com

Helen Cooper +44 (0)7931 370425 wellconnectedagent@gmail.com

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ELLA ROSA Pretty as a picture, style BE575, in English net, with stretch lining. US sizes 2-28.

GENERATION IV Satin and organza, and an amazing cut, Eloise, in satin and organza, UK sizes 6-28.

ELYSEE EDITION Francoise, for gorgeous curves, in lace and tulle, with special detaiing. UK sizes 20-36.

Private Label by G +44 (0)1765 530282 contact@privatelabelbyg.co.uk

Studio Ellis +44 (0)20 8888 8833 info@studioellis.co.uk

Bridal Collective +44 (0)1792 586615 info@bridal-collective.co.uk

FREDA BENNET Austin is a strapless dress in Mikado, with pockets. With sequinned cardigan, Monaco. UK sizes 6-24.

KENNETH WINSTON Style 1934, in embroidered cotton lace, English net and satin with stretch lining. US sizes 2-28.

YOUR COUTURE BRIDAL From this brand new label is style LHP031 in crepe, with a soft net skirt and handbeaded appliqués. UK sizes 4-32.

Freda Bennet +44 (0)1322 537741 hello@fredabennet.co.uk

Private Label by G +44 (0)1765 530282 contact@privatelabelbyg.co.uk

Richard Lill +44 (0) 767 351270 / +44 (0)1423 876380 info@yourcouturebridal.com

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ENZOANI Chic and confident and every inch redcarpet glam, Roxane, in beaded Chantilly lace. UK sizes 4-34.

LOVE Keeping it deliciously simply, and wonderfully elegant, sculpted Arlette, in mikado. UK sizes 4-34.

Bridal Collective +44 (0)1792 586615 info@bridal-collective.co.uk

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MODECA CURVES Petra is a real beauty, in beaded lace and tulle, with plunge neck and flattering cross-over bodice. US sizes 18+

MODECA Illusion panels, see-through lace and sparkling tulle make Nouk an undoubted winner. US sizes 0-28.

AB Agencies +44 (0)1204 534817 abagenciesltd@gmail.com

LE PAPILLON Orla, from Modeca’s Le Papillon collection, features curvy side cut outs with lace appliques over illusion net. US sizes 0-28

DONNA SALADO Faith says it all. High style, chic and understated. Deep v-neck to the waist, with illusion inset. In Mikado, UK sizes 8-22.

MASCARA LONDON Lace fishtail gown with illusion bodice sprinkled with floral appliques. Style MC311943, UK sizes 6-18.

AB Agencies +44 (0)1204 534817 abagenciesltd@gmail.com

Mark Lesley +44 (0) 1621 784784 info@marklesley.co.uk

Danny Saul +44(0)20 8965 1522 info@mascara.london

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Style: Chloe top and Scarlet

BADGLEY MISCHKA Flynn mixes beaded 3D embroidered lace with beaded linear lace, glitter tulle and chiffon, a perfect combination. UK sizes 4-34

ETOILE Nathalie features floral, botanical and Chantilly laces and tulle. Feminine and romantic. UK sizes 4-34.

Bridal Collective +44 (0)1792 586615 info@bridal-collective.co.uk

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MIKAELLA Crepe and Mikaella lace, style 2380, with its plunging neckline and split skirt. UK sizes 6-26.

PALOMA BLANCA Style 4977, in mikado, has a full circle skirt with pockets, and covered buttons. UK sizes 6-26.

DANIELLE COUTURE DC088, soft lace fishtail dress. Also available in blush, sand and Champagne. UK sizes 6-32.

Marie Murphy-Campion +44 (0)7881 630891 marie@palomablanca.com

Phoenix Gowns +44 (0)7792 466656 info@phoenixgowns.co.uk

PHOENIX GOWNS PH0077, an off-the-shoulder ballgown with soft fauna lace detail and layered train. UK sizes 6-32.

ENVY BY PHOENIX PH8039 has a beaded bodice, full A-line tulle skirt and soft flutter sleeves. UK sizes 16-34.

MONICA LORETTI The square neckline and long puff sleeves that are setting new trends. Style 8201, in comes in stretch jersey, and UK sizes 6-28.

Phoenix Gowns +44 (0)7792 466656 info@phoenixgowns.co.uk

Rob Bevington Agencies +44 (0)7852 999079 monicaloretti@outlook.com

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Style: Chloe top and Scarlet

CASABLANCA BRIDAL Cayden, in pleated tulle and lace with beaded 3D floral appliques. US sizes 2-32.

MORILEE Calanthe, style 2378, in net with appliqués, beadwork and sequins. UK sizes 6-30.

Michelle Blackburn, UK & Ireland Sales Agent +44 (0)7935 156275 michelle@casablancabridal.eu

Morilee UK +44 (0)1636 700889 ukmarketing@morilee.com

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RANDY FENOLI BRIDAL Chloe brings together sharp cuts and oversized bows to make a real highfashion statement. US sizes 0-28.

SANYUKTA SHRESTHA From the Vegan Dream Collection comes Ediga, in vegan organic lace, chiffon and bamboo. UK sizes 6-18.

WATTERS Pearl and sequin beading feature on Vivianne, and exaggerated puff-shoulder sleeves demand attention. US sizes 0-22.

AB Agencies +44 (0)1204 534817 abagenciesltd@gmail.com

Sanyukta Shrestha +44 (0) 150 7588 507 info@sanyuktashrestha.com

Kelly Weaver/Chris Bush +44 (0)1527 832373 sales@watters.com

WTOO There are hints of blooms throughout the collection and nowhere more evident than in Paloma, where sheer comes first. UK sizes 2-32.

WILLOWBY Top Renae, and skirt Innika, in an amazing shade – dusky hibiscus. Romantic sleeves and corded lace are highlights here. US sizes 0-22.

LILLIAN WEST Bows, plunging V-neck, illusion bodice, modern lace, 3D appliques, sparkle, low back – these all feature in style 66212. UK sizes 4-34.

Kelly Weaver/Chris Bush +44 (0)1527 832373 sales@watters.com

Justin Alexander +44 (0)1908 615599 info-uk@justinalexander.com

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Style: Chloe top and Scarlet

ROMANTICA Classic ballgown in tulle with beaded lace motifs, Emmie has a sweetheart neckline with scallop edges. UK sizes 6-32.

JENNIFER WREN Fit and flare style JW20535, has a plunge neckline, illusion lace bodice and lace shoulder straps. UK sizes 6-32.

Romantica +44 (0)1823 67412 enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

Jennifer Wren +44 (0)1823 674412 enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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PURE Body-shaping mermaid, PB158 features tulle and lace motifs that cascade down onto the soft skirt. UK sizes 6-32.

LIBELLE A-line Guista has added shimmer from glittering lace appliqués and floral embroidery. US sizes 0-28.

Romantica +44 (0)1823 674412 enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

AB Agencies +44 (0)1204 534817 abagenciesltd@gmail.com N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 37

RONALD JOYCE Felicia, style 69652, from the Sicilian Sun Collection is in tulle with lace appliques and horsehair edging. UK sizes 6-30.

SPECIAL DAY Style C21756 is from the Claddagh collection, and features a beaded lace bodice and chiffon skirt. UK sizes 6-36.

Ronald Joyce UK +44 (0)1636 593483 enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com

Special Day +353 1 8665882 info@specialday-ireland.com

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TRUE BRIDE Barcelona in tulle and glitter tulle, with hand-beaded shoulder straps and narrow hand-beaded belt of chunky pearls and crystals. UK sizes 6-36.

NICKY FLYNN Boheme is what the name suggests, bridal glam with a bohemian twist. Beaded lace, sequinned over-lace, and a body-curving silhouette. UK sizes 6-36.

TRUE CURVES Softly-draped tulle, lace appliqués amd a detachable cape are the special features of Rhodes, from this exceptional plus-size collection. UK sizes 18-36.

True Bride +44 (0)1273 728637 enquiries@truebride.co.uk

Nicky Flynn +44 (0)1273 728637 enquiries@truebride.co.uk

True Curves +44 (0)1273 728637 enquiries@truebride.co.uk

SOPHIA TOLLI Stretch Mikado, style Y12237, with detachable off-the-shoulder straps, and an optional overskirt. UK sizes 6-32.

MARTIN THORNBURG Mixing the classic with the contemporary, Style 122241 has an illusion back with lacetrimmed keyhole detailing. UK sizes 6-32.

SILHOUETTE Meet Bella-Marie, a beautifully shaped A-line in glistening tulle with an illusion V-neckline. UK sizes 18-34.

Mon Cheri Bridals +44 (0)1823 674906 enquiries@moncheribridals.co.uk

Romantica +44 (0)1823 674412 enquiries@romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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Style: Chloe top and Scarlet

Emma, a whole new career – what brought it about? Having been in bridal retail for 25 years as the owner of a busy city centre shop in Cambridge, and now visiting shops around the UK as a Wedding Shop Consultant, I understand the constant hard work that goes into creating unique and magical bridal experiences that brides want to share, post and shout about. Over the years I managed to really fine-tune the selection of designers that excited our customer base while sharing our values as a business, which is how I got to know the amazing and supportive Morilee team. I loved my years as a bridal retailer but also very much enjoyed time away from the shop working closely with other businesses and the BA fashion students at Cambridge University. Although the decision to solely focus on training and consultancy was a hard one to make, the offer to become part of the Morilee family couldn’t have happened at a more perfect time.

Crossing Over Who better to advise a supplier about dealing with their stockists, than a highly-successful retailer? We caught up with Morilee’s newest member of the family, Emma Arnold, who has joined the UK team as Retail Development Consultant

suit a business and its team. At this stage, we will decide whether to begin with some fun product knowledge and sales training for the sales team, or an ‘owner visit’. The latter prioritises what has to be at the top of every retailer’s list, which is to ask the question: “Am I getting the maximum return possible from the collections I have invested in? If not, why not and how do I bridge that gap?” What help are you able to bring Ordering samples is just one part to your retailers – what can they of the complex equation that, once expect from you? calculated correctly, will equal healthy The support Morilee offers its returns and strong profitability. Morilee stockists is on several levels and usually starts with a ‘get-to-know-you’ caters for all brides – I love how broad the company’s customer reach is – yet phone call, a preliminary chat to see by fully understanding its collections what we can offer that would best 40 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

and targeted merchandising, shops can also use this diversity to drive their own USP. Our training starts with how to get enough ready-to-purchase brides walking through the doors, and encouraging past customers to become advocates for your boutique. Together we look at the customer journey and address any pressure points along the way, while highlighting potential areas for growth and increased margins. What are the main challenges facing your stores? It’s been a great start to the training programme and fantastic to see shops

visited fired up and motivated, ready to maximise on the predicted increase in weddings forecast for 2022. Challenges vary, but often come back to time management, and knowing what to prioritise next when there barely seems enough hours in the day. As owners, we didn’t stop, with many working all the hours under the sun while most staff were on furlough, to make sure that the business transition out of lockdown was as smooth as possible. Stopping for a few hours and focusing on team training has really helped. The productivity of lessexperienced staff will increase, and there will be a greater level of understanding from your staff on how, as a team, they can be an integral part of a growing business with clear goals. What do you think the main issues stores will have moving into 2022? Functionality. Shops need to look now at their systems, capacity and timetabling, while forecasting potential business pressure points. For example, many shops have a higher level of alterations already booked in for spring/summer 2022 than is typical by this time of year. To cope with this, a plan needs to be put in place now (again something we are more than happy to help our stockists with) that will allow retailers to focus on driving new sales forward and ensuring a healthy 2023, while offering top notch service to existing brides. Having said that, the issues and pressure points shops are facing are always unique to their specific business, which is why we, as a supplier, believe in doing our best to support and understand our resilient and highly valued independent stockists.

A MORILEE HIT Deborah, style 2431, available in three lengths, has detachable sleeves, a crystal beaded waistband, and horsehair-edged hem. RRP £1900

Is there was one piece of advice you would give to stores right now, what would it be? People buy from People. Don’t just be a business – I can’t emphasise this message enough and again... it’s all part of the Morilee training!

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Silhouette BRIDAL

w w w. r o m a n t i c a o f d e v o n . c o . u k / s i l h o u e t t e

Modern, glamorous and unforgettable... Let us introduce you to the SS 22 collection from Pure Bridal, where all gowns retail below £899. Please contact kerry@romanticaofdevon.co.uk for more information on becoming a stockist.

Letter from America Well poised for the next stage, that’s the view of Peter Grimes of VOWS magazine, who is seeing a real change for the better

ll the advice we’ve been hearing (and have repeatedly told ourselves) has served us well through those dark days of the past 18 months, regardless of whether our boutique’s location is in the US or the UK… advice and actions that will now sustain us, as we confront the brighter days of increased store traffic and sales against the dark reality of shortages, shipping delays and multiple price increases. In the US as in the UK, actions

were taken and advice followed that resulted in expanding the resilience in ourselves and in all those we lead and love. Steps such as: • Trusting in ourselves and monitoring our processes • Concentrating on the ‘trees’ instead of the ‘forest’ • Giving our best every moment and through every interaction with staff and client • Ignoring those debilitating ‘what if’

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• voices that do nothing but paralyze • Expressing gratitude when we might have been able to see what we were thankful for • Rejuvenating our enthusiasm for what we do and how we do it In addition to attitude and perspective, the steps many boutiques have taken this season will carry them through to the next: • Continually re-evaluating off-therack merchandising programmes • Concentrating on sellable styles by buying in multiples of sizes and pieces • Pursuing vendors with in-stock inventory • Passing through increases in shipping fees and manufacturer prices

And there are two additional factors The conclusions for which to be grateful: Every research paper studying the 1. The issues we continue to face, impact of COVID-19 and its variants address and react to are not unique to on consumer attitudes and spending our industry, nor any specific segment presents a picture of bridal retail of it. Virtually every done well: Today’s consumer wants business worldwide and expects is facing similar a human headwinds, connection, In-person shopping though some more digitally debilitating than enhanced, offers real-life touchothers. that addresses and-feel experiences Additionally, and satisfies widespread their individual that build deep customer desires within near-saturation media coverage relationships that simply a memorable has increased experience. can’t be replicated online every consumer’s An example awareness of these of the advice issues… especially offered to ours. retailers is from Shopify’s Retail Blog, Consequently, we now have a in which it announced that: “We’re (mostly) understanding, though still entering a new era for physical retail nervous, bride who is more willing to stores, and in-person shopping offers listen to and follow our advice, and real-life touch-and-feel experiences who is less deterred by the costs of that build deep customer relationship her gown and accessories. (and simply can’t be replicated online).” We will always have a small It’s specific ‘must dos’ for bricks and percentage of self-absorbed over-the- mortar stores reads like a blueprint for top brides who “don’t want to hear it…”, bridal: which is certainly true here and now. • Invest in store design For sanity sake, it’s even more crucial to • Create community hubs learn from the difficult, hard-to-service • Offer gift customisation and few, and not let them overshadow the personalisation understanding many who appreciate • Leverage one-to-one interactions what you do. • Make stores a sensory experience 2. Recent studies, reports and books from retail consultants and businessto-consumer marketers confirm what we’ve known and focused on these past two years: bridal retail is uniquely positioned to provide exactly what today’s post-COVID consumer wants and needs.

As a consequence, retail in general, whether brick and click, e-commerce only, or a hybrid of both, is embracing these researched conclusions. Digital, direct-to-consumer brands are rapidly expanding into physical environments, as the result of these changing consumer preferences,

and due to increasing costs of online customer acquisition. Other signs • New physical stores are opening (both national chains and small single owner/operated independents. • Amazon is expanding its physical store concept into larger department store-type settings • Luxury goods brands are ramping up their physical ‘footprint’ both in number and in store presentation to more effectively support their brand and deliver that personalised experience to ardent followers And of special note All this activity, and surprisingly strong retail sales numbers in the US (as reported by the National Retail Federation), are happening against the headwinds of major supply chain disruptions caused by a lack of shipping, warehousing and truck and rail capacity compounded by a shortage of labour across all categories and segments. My point is this: there are still difficult times ahead in a marketplace that appears to be changing daily, but by enthusiastically providing what you do best is precisely what your bride needs and wants… especially right now. So keep smiling – It’s proven to elevate mood, alleviate stress, reinforce resilience, and enable that great secret of life: enthusiasm. As Norman Vincent Peale, best known for his work in popularising positive thinking, said: “There is a real magic in enthusiasm. It spells the difference between mediocrity and accomplishment”.

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BRAVO BARCELONA A unique event – a gala with catwalks, fashion and music in front of the Montjuïc fountains – put Barcelona back in the spotlight of global bridal fashion

ith an annual event that has in the past unfailingly hit the international headlines, Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week (BBFW) looked to create a new-form spectacular this year, as the world has eased out of stresses of lockdown. October’s Bridal Fashion Week Gala was, unsurprisingly, another feather in the organiser’s sparkling cap, a specially-created one-off event

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during which the stunning collections of 20 leading design houses went on show in front of the waterfalls of Montjuïc’s Magic Fountain. The show, staged to support the Save the Children charity, was streamed around the world and attended in person by more than 500 guests. The Gala, organised by Fira de Barcelona’s Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week (BBFW) in partnership with the Ministry of Business and Labour of

YolanCris SET TO DAZZLE And a dazzling setting for the event that brought glamour back into the world of bridal

the Generalitat of Catalonia under the heading ‘The New Beginning’, fulfilled its goal of bringing together highly-respected designers and professionals from the world of bridal fashion to contribute to reactivating and revitalising the sector while promoting their work. According to Jesús Díez Betriu, the president of BBFW and owner of the Jesús Peiró brand: “The aim of this event was create a true celebration,

a ‘return to life’ following the difficult period beset by the pandemic. The Gala has proved to be a resounding success, and without question that success will help the sector to continue working with enthusiasm and renewed strength.” The show featured more than 80 iconic designs from leading brands such as Pronovias Group, with its Pronovias, House of St Patrick and Nicole Milano brands; Jesús Peiró;

Yolancris; Isabel Sanchis; Sophie et Voilà; Ramón Sanjurjo; Marco y María; Lorena Panea; Olga Macià; Carla Ruiz; Cristina Tamborero; Antonio Riva; Amelia Casablanca; Carlo Pignatelli; Carlo Pignatelli for Pronovias; Justin Alexander; and The Atelier. Influencers, models and celebrities Barcelona has always been a magnet for names at the heart of the industry, and those surrounding it, attracting

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Olga Macià Carlo Pignatelli for Pronovias

Isabel Sanchis

Cristina Amborero

Pronovias

Marco y Maria

some of the biggest names on the red carpet, and those whose opinions are sought out, and respected. The gala was attended by some 30 of the most important influencers on the international scene, who boast between them a combined total of more than 14 million followers. Some of them, such as Melyssa Pinto; Marta Sierra; Daniel Illescas; Italian Andrea Dal Corso; Mexican Patricia Gloria Contreras; and Chenyue Wang from

China paraded on the catwalk with designs by Lorena Panea, Yolancris, Ramón Sanjurjo, Carlo Pignatelli for Pronovias, Amelia Casablanca, The Atelier, and Marco y María. Among the key attendees at the Gala were government representatives and big society names including actors Hiba Abouk and Macarena Gómez, models and presenters Judit Mascó, Martina Klein, Fiona Ferrer and Elsa Anka, while model and influencer Desirée Cordero,

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took to the stage for Pronovias. Event director Estermaria Laruccia said: “It’s been a pleasure to see so many representatives of the bridal world together again in such a magical setting. We’re particularly thrilled about helping to support Save the Children and its Stop Child Marriage project.” Yet again Barcelona has set new standards. Its sheer inventiveness never fails to stun.

ON STAGE No surprise, Antonio Riva drew applause on the catwalk

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For more information on becoming a stockist, please email denise@galaxyagency.co.uk. www.sophiatolli.com

OUR KINDA TOWN Our kinda show The National Bridal Market Chicago, the leading US tradeshow for bridal and occasionwear opened its doors in August and added a full day on to its schedule to accommodate the visitors who couldn’t wait to get back into the swing of things

t the National Bridal Market Chicago this year, there was a real buzz after the pandemic period that brought a halt to all travelling for what seemed like an eternity. Attendees and exhibitors were heard to repeat the same comment throughout the show period – “I am so glad to see you, my friend!” More than 150 companies were in the not-so-windy city, the majority with multiple label portfolios. And in excess of a greater-than-expected

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3,000 retailers proved to be in the mood for an adventure into the latest designs for the season ahead, and a total buying experience. A package of daily ‘happenings’ contributed to the event, from a welcome at the Mimosa bar, to a complimentary signature lunch, drinks breaks at the specialty coffee bar, the VOW’s ice cream cart, and more. The Riverfront celebration, on the first day of the show, was the reunion everyone had been waiting for. Located on the MART’s newly

designed terrace – drinks and appetisers were served against a backdrop of the amazing Chicago skyline, and river view. Fun was in the air, the weather was perfection, and everyone was celebrating… and in good company. Exhibitors reported healthy orders across their collections and over the full four days. Proving to be real winners were unusual necklines, billowing sleeves, low backs, delicate beading, ribbon florals, and dramatic tiaras in every

colour. Jewel tones and high-style black lace dresses were a highlight that grabbed and held attention. Occasionwear, including prom, social occasions, MOB, and quinceanera lines, pulled in big business, as retailer rails had been depleted over the past two years and shops were keen to build up their stock once again, and with the latest looks that consumers were demanding having had a taste of what was to come through the various spcial media chanels.

New designers that exhibited for the first time at National Bridal Market Chicago included Tiscareno Bridal Couture, La Premiere, Ragazza Fashion, Kelly Faetinini and Blue Willow by Anne Barge. The next National Bridal Market Chicago showing Fall 2022 collections, is scheduled to take place 13-15 March 2022. Visit www.nationalbridalmarket.com for regularly updated information

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,,,

Membership Matters

the RBA has needed to consolidate its activities, and build on its offering to members. We bridal business owners – and that includes the volunteer Executive Council (EC) members – are forever reinventing ourselves; we have to in order to stay one step ahead at all times. We recognise that it is vital if we are to compete in the retail industry in this day and age, and to further encourage and stimulate growth and improvement in our sector. The past 18 months have proved that we never know what’s coming next, and that we need to be ready to move with times. Like everyone else, the RBA have had to adapt to a new way of working. It has actually been amazing – not at all easy, though – but out of adversity comes innovation, opportunity and strength, and that’s just for starters.

Time well spent We have used the past year and a half to set up new training programmes, new events, new discounts, new discussions, new ways of communication, new marketing, and many more new ways to support our members. It’s all on our new website. One of the things I have appreciated most was our once a month members’ Zoom meeting. My businesses are in Scotland and it has kept me in touch with the rest of the industry around Britain. It was great to actually hear this from some more of our members during the Harrogate Bridal Show Rob and Andrew Pearce from Creatiques, have been members of the RBA for the past seven years. They k, so the Retail Bridalwear Association (RBA) has been said: “As a long-standing bridal business, around for a long time – 26 we have felt the RBA support – from years to be precise. I think we are the longest-serving bridal retail the advice from the legal team, to discussions with fellow bridal shop association out there. owners. I am, however, delighted to report “Through this past year we have all that we have consistently moved experienced the highs and lows of our on from those early years… just as industry, but with our regular Zoom the industry itself has completely changed, so has the Association. And meetings and support calls from other members, we have the knowledge today more than ever, with all of our that the RBA has our business businesses constantly changing, so

Being part of a long-standing industry body has a huge number of advantages, and solid support is core to the proposition. Sharon McPherson talks RBA business

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interests and needs covered.” For me, hearing this makes all the hard work the Association’s EC puts in so very worthwhile. Looking ahead I am also very excited for our next block of training coming up soon, some for business owners and some for our staff. We are covering many different subjects with new trainers who have a wealth of expertise in their own areas. We have also partnered with Wendy Riviera and her Do You Speak Bride team to provide free quarterly sessions, and we are jointly offering RBA members a substantial discount for the unlimited full DYSB training and resources. With that alone, the cost of my RBA membership is already covered, and that’s not including our established benefits of: *Free legal advice *Brides Assurance Scheme *RBA Times bi-monthly newsletter *Terms and conditions pro forma *HR resource pack *Health and Safety resource pack *Recruitment resource pack *Access to the Kickstart Scheme *Discounted shop insurance, gown bags, quality printing, payroll management , training days, conference weekends, online training I think you will have realised by now that I am a fan. Although I sit on the EC, I am very aware that I am not an expert on everything – none of us are – but as a group, our collective years of experience are off the scale, and this resource is the one I use most of all. I have met wonderful business owners, seen the most encouraging quality of service and provision, and made friends for life. Best of all, we all understand that we are a part of the fashion retail industry that is like no other, and just as Andrew said, I, too, know that the RBA has our businesses covered.

F U N W E D D I N G FAC T S , F R O M R B A LT D . O R G . U K • The largest wedding attendance was a Jewish wedding in Jerusalem in 1993, where 30,000 people attended. • The most expensive wedding was the one held in a purpose-built stadium in Dubai for a Sheik’s son. The wedding cost over £22 million. • The longest wedding dress train was found in Germany, it measured over 515 feet. • Tuck a sugar cube into your glove — according to Greek culture, the sugar will sweeten your union. • Rain on your wedding day is actually considered good luck, according to Hindu tradition! • For good luck, Egyptian women pinch the bride on her wedding day. Ouch! • Peas are thrown at Czech newlyweds instead of rice. • A Swedish bride puts a silver coin from her father and a gold coin from her mother in each shoe to ensure that she’ll never do without. • A Finnish bride traditionally went door-to-door collecting gifts in a pillowcase, accompanied by an older married man who represented long marriage. • Moroccan women take a milk bath to purify themselves before their wedding ceremony. • In Holland, a pine tree can be planted outside the newlyweds’ home as a symbol of fertility and luck. • Engagement and wedding rings are worn on the fourth finger of the left hand because it was once thought that a vein in that finger led directly to the heart. • Diamonds set in gold or silver became popular as betrothal rings among wealthy Venetians toward the end of the 15th century. • Snake rings dotted with ruby eyes were popular wedding bands in Victorian England – the coils winding into a circle symbolized eternity. • Queen Victoria started the Western world’s white wedding dress trend in 1840 – before then, brides simply wore their best dress. • In Japan, white was always the color of choice for bridal ensembles -long before Queen Victoria popularized it in the Western world. • In Asia, wearing robes with embroidered cranes symbolizes fidelity for the length of a marriage. • In Korea, brides don bright hues of red and yellow to take their vows. • Ancient Greeks and Romans thought the veil protected the bride from evil spirits. Brides have worn veils ever since. • The “something blue” in a bridal ensemble symbolizes purity, fidelity, and love. • The tradition of a wedding cake comes from ancient Rome, where revelers broke a loaf of bread over a bride’s head for fertility’s sake. • The custom of tiered cakes emerged from a game where the bride and groom attempted to kiss over an ever-higher cake without knocking it over. • Queen Victoria’s wedding cake weighed a whopping 300 pounds. • Stag parties were first held by ancient Spartan soldiers, who kissed their bachelor days goodbye with a raucous party. N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 55

TH E WE D D I N G T RA DER PORTFOLIO

The best of Boho This is a story that gets better and better with each chapter as designers become increasingly adventurous with cuts and embellishments and fabric manufacturers come up with new ideas

KELSEY ROSE Style: Sicily 50407 Fabric: Chiffon and lace Colour: Ivory Special features: Flutter sleeve, tie back tassel detail, flattering pleats over the tummy Size range: UK 6-22 RRP: £749 T: +44 (0)20 8888 8833 E: info@studioellis.co.uk www.kelseyrose.co.uk

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ADI SHLOMO Style: Demi 604, from the Glam Collection Fabric: Dotted tulle, 3D lace Colour: Ivory on nude Special features: Detachable sleeves Size range: 32-44 RRP: POA T: +972 50 744 8614 E: info@adishlomo.com www.adishlomo.com

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MORILEE Style: Clara 5916 Fabric: Lace and net Colour: Ivory/Champagne/honey; ivory/porcelain Special features: Laced-up corset back Size range: UK 2-30 RRP: £1,100 T: +44 (0)1636 700889 E: ukmarketing@morilee.com https://uk.morilee.com/

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ETERNITY Style: 22038, Free To Be Me collection Fabric: Venice lace, chiffon and tulle Colour: Ivory/nude Special features: Banded illusion back. Removeable off- theshoulder sleeves Size range: US 0-30 RRP: POA T: +44 (0)1423 866720 E: info@eternitybridal.co.uk www.eternitybridal.co.uk

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ROMANTICA Style: Leona Fabric: Tulle and lace Colour: Ivory/Champagne; all ivory Special features: Off-the-shoulder blouson sleeves with delicate lace embroidery cascading down the soft tulle skirt Size range: UK 4-32 RRP: £1,050 T: +44 (0)1823 674412 E: sales@romanticaofdevon.co.uk www.romanticaofdevon.co.uk

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RONALD JOYCE Style: Veni 18558 Fabric: Lace, satin, net Colour: Ivory Special features: Off-the-shoulder three-quarter length flared sleeves Size range: UK 6-30 RRP: £1,000 T: +44 (0) 1636 593483 E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com www.ronaldjoyce.com

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SOPHIA TOLLI Style: Y22174 Fabric: Tulle and lace Colour: Ivory/blush; ivory; white Special features: Off-the-shoulder, with delicate lace falling into a floaty tulle skirt Size range: UK 6-32 RRP: £1,599 T: +44 (0) 1636 593483 E: enquiries@moncheribridals.co.uk www.moncheribridals.com

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everything we do and always have been, so during the third lockdown I had a moment when I was staring at my logo and I felt it no longer represented what we stand for as a business. I felt it didn’t have a big enough personality – somehow the block capitals felt anonymous and impersonal. It’s hard to put it into words, but I instinctively knew it was time for change and time to move forward. Owning this well-known brand and its legacy means I am constantly pushing forward, not only in aesthetics, but in products and processes. All change!

Time For Change With a complete brand refresh, Ellie Sanderson is set to face the future of bridal retail head-on – and in her own, inimitable style. Sarah Dawson reports

llie Sanderson revealed the brand’s beautiful new look in October. Here, we chat with Ellie and Jonathan Harris, the Creative Director of Harrisment Design & Branding, who helped bring Ellie’s vision to life, about how the brand has evolved, and what the future holds for bridal retailers. What prompted the decision to re-brand Ellie Sanderson? ES: A number of things came into play. Firstly, I am hugely critical of

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Why did you feel now was the time for change? JH: Successful brands are constantly evolving; they never stand still. They are always relevant and connected to their customers, as well as the world around them. Sometimes change is responsive, in Ellie’s case it’s often to lead. Over the past few years, there have been a raft of changes to the world we live in – some due to the pandemic and Brexit, others longer in the making. This is a great moment to recognise and signal how well the Ellie Sanderson brand has responded to these challenges. What’s the idea behind the re-brand and new look? ES: I wanted to mark the start of the next chapter; Covid. 2020 was a tumultuous time for us all in this industry and things will never be the same again. They will be similar, but different, and I felt we needed to be, too. Similar but different; similar but better; similar but fresher. I worked for months with Harrisment Design & Branding and Jonathan really got under the skin of my business. He took time to listen to what was driving my desire for change; he spent time assessing my feelings about font, look, colours and more. The brand tool kit we now have is personal and far reaching and so many ideas have come from it!

JH: It’s all inspired by energy, positivity, inclusion and engagement – as well as remaining classy and fabulous! We want to celebrate the work done by staff and supporters of Ellie Sanderson, maintaining their poise, hope and creativity, both recently and throughout the lifetime of the brand. Never letting their heads go down, always being flexible and with a can-do attitude. Always human, empathetic and with a sense of humour. Forward looking, but pen to new ideas and respectful of the old traditions. How would you describe Ellie Sanderson’s new look and new direction? ES: I feel it’s personal – it has my signature on it after all! I think the new look epitomises our hands-on approach to client care and supplier relations. I feel it shows my name is above the door and I am behind the door. It’s got a face and it’s trustworthy, open and honest. Just like us. The timing of the rebrand was not a happy accident – it’s not just because we are coming out the other side of the pandemic, but also because we have properly launched our Woodstock business. The original launch was under the Covid cloud, and my poor Woodstock studio was shut down after three months because of this. So, now it’s time to shout about it! We have a vastly different collection in the Woodstock studio to our Beaconsfield studio. Woodstock is more relaxed and the labels in there are not big national brands, but significant brands to watch, like Eva Lendel, Anna Kara and Rish. They are blended with our usual favourites, including Suzanne Neville and Jesus Peiro, and work perfectly. JH: The Ellie Sanderson new look has energy and movement; it’s informal and fluid, without losing its elegance. The style reflects Ellie’s willingness to have her vision and values front and centre. It has a certain N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 65

couture confidence, reflecting Ellie Sanderson’s stature within the bridal sphere. There’s also a playfulness, reminding us that the buying of a wedding dress is a time of celebration and joy, along with a hint of indulgence. What does the future of wedding dress shopping look like and how is Ellie Sanderson going to embrace it? JH: Ellie Sanderson will embrace it by staying true to its core values. On the face of it overall, the economic trends suggest that, sadly, bridal shops will diminish in number. The exodus to online, less in people’s pockets and the escalating cost of premises, all paint a pretty gloomy picture. Ellie Sanderson is already navigating a different course. They look at the bride’s journey beyond their first appointment. The brand is so much more than simply shifting dresses. It’s about creating memories for the bride, supporting with honest advice when requested, offering options, taking the time to get to know her, her goals and ambitions for her big day. We know that online will generate ideas and enthusiasm and Ellie Sanderson wants to encourage that, especially as its online presence is incredibly rich and visual. Ellie Sanderson wants brides to come along with their Pinterest boards, or whatever, and use that as a springboard into an appointment. Equally, Ellie Sanderson prides itself on its fashion knowledge and aesthetic sensibilities, so if you come to them as a blank canvas, they can help explore the collections together. They’re in constant conversation with designers, influencers, photographers, stylists and florists across the industry, which allows them to curate their collections and innovate their services every year. Sitting in front of a screen generates awareness, excitement and anticipation. The more of the Ellie Sanderson brand you experience, the more memories you will make.

The elements that the digital world and other retailers can’t provide are the personal attention, sympathetic appreciation, creative spark and outstanding levels of tailored service. The goal is to build personal connections with the bride, to make the dress-finding process unforgettable and emotionally fulfilling. To make her into the bride she dreams of, giving her confidence and presence. Choosing a top bridal boutique is more than a skip-and-click to PayPal: it’s one of the longest and most personal relationships you’ll have throughout your wedding preparations. Ellie Sanderson’s goal is to ensure it remains fabulous throughout and beyond. What lessons have you learnt about the business over recent years and how are these going to be worked into the brand, moving forward? ES: A huge number of lessons have been learned in the past few years and more will be learned in the years to come. We will continue to work with suppliers who supported us through the past 20 months, those who

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genuinely listen to our feedback and those who want solid brand partnerships. I don’t want to work with labels that saturate the market-place until there is a glut of their product, and that product becomes devalued and overavailable. In all honesty, I run from suppliers who rely on minimums to keep their business models working, and instead gravitate to those who sell great product that’s exclusive and focus on selling repeats. I work with suppliers where I can get a solid return on my investment so that I am happy to step up and invest into the next collection. It’s a positive cycle of business achievement. The bridal industry is on the cusp of being beyond saturated with massproduced product and these dresses are clogging up rails everywhere. The number of dresses that end up in land fill sites annually frightens me, and we must be more accountable for that. We will remain solid lovers of British design and will continue to blend this with great new world class labels. Harrisment Design & Branding www.harrisment.co.uk

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Over To Peta

ara Groom, of Hitched, and I always drive up to Harrogate on a Sunday morning, fuelled by coffee. En route we put the bridal world to rights, and often come up with crazy schemes and great ideas which further down the line we work on. It’s like a bluesky meeting room in a Smart car. (My Micra got us up there for years through thick and thin, snow, wind, rain, petrol shortages, lorries catching fire in front of us, but when the final windscreen wiper wiped itself off the windscreen, 68 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1

HOUSE OF ST PATRICK AMSALE

Wow! Entering Harrogate on the Sunday morning was like time travelling; we stepped through the doors, and the past 18 months of Covid chaos were completely eradicated

ELLIS BRIDALS ELIZA JANE HOWELL

VESTAL

ALAN HANNAH

I knew it was time to say goodbye, hence the Smart car and the start of a new era.) It was nice to see that some things never change though. The drive-in sex shops on the side of A1 are still there – they always make me wonder… and laugh! And they act as a road marker; we know we don’t have long to go before we hit beautiful Harrogate.

bridal pages anymore, just Instagram, style shoots, consultancy work and trendwatch, in theory it allowed me time to catch up with much-missed colleagues and friends. Instead of my usual of trying to catch up, photographing dresses and calling them in at the same time. So this overview represents the ramblings of a freelance stylist – well that was the plan – but the reality is more like the writings of a small overexcited child flitting from one stand to another, so delighted to see all the satin, silk sequins, lace and tulle. Oh, how I’ve missed you… I didn’t realise how much until I started to walk through the halls. The actual exhibition was a lot busier than I had imagined, but luckily it flowed well. Well done Wendy, and her team. And here are my highlights – in no particular order and definitely no nil points here…

Let’s go The Eliza Jane Howell stand was rammed, but I managed see some amazing beaded dresses, plus some lovely feathery pieces, and catch up with Gill who’s been working with a lot of secret celebrity clients both here and in Hollywood – it’s so nice to have Hello bridal world What a delight to be back in the realm a designer whose work is appreciated on the red carpet as well as the aisle. of bridal. As I don’t have to create

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JLM

HALO & CO

goodness just how much stuff can a person gather? I am worried that I am going to end up on a hoarding TV programme drowning under a sea of dresses and knick knacks.) Back to the Halls. Love Story Bridal was a new brand to me, very well priced, with simple shapes. The crêpe had a nice modern vibe about it for the unfussy bride. I thought it was a very easy-to-like collection and I hope they do well. As always had a really good chat on the JLM stand (yes, we swapped pictures of cats dogs and caught up which was lovely). The reason why I couldn’t be a great buyer was Illustrated perfectly on this stand – I am drawn to dresses that sparkle and there was so much choice, I couldn’t pick my favourite ten let alone two: I think with my eyes and not with my head! So good luck to all buyers, you have my respect. Lazaro’s dresses FLORA

For me it’s always been important that a designer has their own handwriting and you know what you’re going to get with Eliza Jane Howell. And there’s always a showstopper fit for any window or Strictly Come Dancing. I was really impressed with Donna Solado and Mark Lesley, their collections had some stunning new necklines and a lot of crisp, fresh, easy-to-wear styles – loved the Bridgerton-inspired lace dress, and the drama of V-back Mercado dress with a big bow. It is a large collection but well put together and it flowed (I know. I witter on about ‘flowing’ but it is important that a line works and one part moves effortlessly into another; it makes you realise how much hard work goes into putting a stand and collection together.) For me, it was nice to see a more compact bridesmaids range – I like to see the key colours – I think it helps to focus when you have less sometimes. (And yes, I am going through a house declutter at the moment – my

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twinkled and were beautifully cut, plenty of blush and cream choices too. I’ve always been a big fan of JLM because the pieces are so light and easy to pack. I know I’ve only really dealt with models in the past, but these dresses do seem to suit most girls and work in every destination. Ellis Bridals had a minimalist stand which I loved, because it showed off their new collection perfectly. I really liked their lace gowns – well, I liked the actual lace fabrics – they felt lux, and their big dresses with pockets are so easy to wear and look amazing. (Big skirts should feature pockets, in my world that would be a law.) This is a very sophisticated, elegant range, perfect for the modern bridal. The new collection seems much more focused and with its own strong handwriting. Affordable luxury sums it up for me and I liked that it is a complete contrast to their

have a great selection of separates which all inter-change perfectly. One of the joys of having a UKbased designer house is that they can offer that personal touch, so if a bride wants a different sleeve (why, you must ask, when there are already so many great sleeves?) it is doable. I do love the off-the-shoulder jumpsuit and there are lots of interesting necklines, and flattering, well cut dresses, with that Alan Hannah touch. For me, it’s so important that a dress moves well; it’s all very lovely standing still, but you must be able to walk, dance, eat in your dress and AH uses beautiful fabrics that that feel and look special. And I love satin-backed crepe. There’s been a lot of chatter about Madi Lane so it’s nice to see it in the flesh 18 months on, light and easyto-wear, with more structure than

LOVE STORY

LILLY

JUSTIN ALEXANDER

fun boho Kelsey Rose collection. Congratulations to James and the team for continuing a brand that has such heritage and moving it forward. It was a nice surprise to see that Amsale was over from the US. They brought their short dresses, which do amazingly well both on Instagram and in store. Their LWD (for that read Little White Dress) range is really successful in the US; the gowns are at a good price and it was nice to see plenty of UK stockists on their stand. A big thumbs up from me was the main range including a wonderful satin dress with a daisy embellished tulle cape. Didn’t get a chance to speak to Marguerite at Alan Hannah as she was busy with buyers, so I settled for a quick chat with Alan himself. They were showing Mia Mia and AH, and

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SAVIN LONDON

MADI LANE

SAVIN LONDON

wonderful news… they’ve survived! One of the founders has since got married – congratulations. The women who run this label all have great fashion credentials and have been working in the industry for years. They came together and launched this label for the understated bride and bridesmaid who are fashionforward, don’t want to spend a fortune but do want something easy to wear and well cut. I like the collection a lot. We took that short but sharp walk up the very steep hill – we were out of exhibition practice or was it that we needed lunch? (Wagamama’s vegan spare ribs delicious, but that was later.) Into the vaults of The Majestic on our way to Justin Alexander (he’s engaged you know and designing a special dress.) However, we got distracted again when we bumped into Walter, ex David Fielden and now at Savin London. David is no longer open… he’s retired now the shop’s lease is up. I’ve always been a fan of Savin London, and it was lovely to see

VESTAL

its main Oz competitor but with the distinct Australian vibe. Evie Young is the slightly posher sister brand. The Bridal Collective (that’s Enzoani etc in old money) was full of delicious sparkle and lace and I thought I discovered a new collection! It was only when I put my glasses on and got close up that I realised it was Enzoani – if you don’t pay attention for a few months, lines get rebranded. They didn’t have the whole collection at Harrogate, but what they they did have was exactly what you expect from them. Glad to see Sanyukta Shrestha there, too. Her new collection is created without any animal products and are handmade in Nepal. She uses fabrics made from 100% bamboo, 100% organic cotton, luxe silky and floaty vegan eco-fibre, some even from the cellulose of wood pulp or recycled fibres. And they look fabulous too, not just for vegans. Rowley Hesselballe – great to see this new venture at Harrogate, looking special. I first saw the collection at the press launch pre-Covid, and

I loved how pretty they looked! I particularly liked the white satin strappy sandals, but in the past when on shoots I always found that when a model puts on a pair of Rainbow Clubs, they usually don’t want to take them off… enough said! New to me with fantastically huge hats for both bride and bridesmaids plus eye-catching fluffy brightcoloured jackets and accessories was the Jayley Collection – brilliant for the bride who wants to be a bit of an individual, and plus perfect for dressing up the windows. I liked the pink denim jacket at Lilly – such an easy way to add that editorial look to a more traditional dress. Ivory & Co were busy with their amazing collection of traditional tiaras, hairbands and jewellery, plus a new more expensive fashion collection. I love the big hoops with a pearl in the middle – it was a lovely collection full of pieces you could wear post wedding.

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ROWLEY HESSELBALLE

Great to see Daisy Day veils, I know there’s going to be plenty walking down the aisle next year, and it might seem weird to call the veil a trend, but it is proving to be a key accessory. Talking of accessories, Halo and Co, always please. What great fashion-forward bridal jeweller, with plenty of sparkle and wearable headbands. I think there will be bigger and blingier accessories in the coming year. And a big yes from me to the statement earrings. Rainbow Club had a clutch of new styles. I have a daughter who recently got married wearing a pair and she couldn’t get over how comfy they were... and she normally wears trainers!

MARK LESLEY

Andre – I always enjoy listening to his vision and I love his drive. The dresses didn’t disappoint; they were the usual mix of high-fashion, romantic and commercial. I loved the touch of colour in the hand-painted dresses – if I’d been shooting a fashion story, I’d have struggled to choose because they were all wonderful, and more importantly made in the UK, which is something we need to celebrate. We then battled our way through the busy space that was Justin Alexander, where there was, of course, something for everyone, and a few key trends: beading, of course, beautiful sleeves, and wonderful lace. All of the collections in the group had something that caught my eye.

BIG SELECTION At the Kent Wedding Centre, the choice is vast, and right now blue is one of the top colours for guys

What grooms want Menswear retailers are seeing healthy increases in business as more and more big days are scheduled – or rescheduled – for 2022 and 2023. We talked to two leaders in the field who offer a complete all-round service

s the wedding industry emerges from two very challenging years, questions are being asked about how the market in all areas of bridal might have changed. Optimists are predicting that 2022 will be a boom year for weddings, because of all the postponements as the country went in and out of lockdown and the Government’s recommended wedding protocols seemed to change by the day. Only five guests… no dancing… social distancing for all…no honeymoons in beauty spots

abroad… meant that inevitably the wedding scene was very different from anything we had experienced before. Some of the problems were outlined for us by Martin Lemming, who is in charge of menswear at the Kent Wedding Centre, the one-stop destination for those planning their big day. The Centre offers all the services couples need, from florists to photographers, as well as bridalwear, and menswear to hire or buy. “We are very busy, run off our feet, in fact,” Martin told us. “We are seeing

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postponed weddings that have been re-booked with us, plus new customers as the country opened up. Re-fitting wedding parties is one of the things we have found most difficult. Some weddings have been postponed more than once and there may be six or more people to be re-fitted each time. Grooms and groomsmen put on weight – or lose it – and if a wedding has been moved from winter to summer or vice versa, lighter or heavier-weight suits may be needed. “Then there’s the supply chain,

which has been a problem too. Mills closed, so fabric was no longer being produced, or not in the quantities required. Import duties changed. Shoes have been difficult to obtain in the right sizes and quantity. I must have heard every excuse in the book, ranging from the hold up in the Suez Canal, to containers not being able to leave port when they reached this country, as well as Covid of course! “Luckily, our customers have been very understanding. Many of them had similar problems in their own businesses so they are willing to work with us to find substitutes for the styles they originally wanted. “We are buying new stock for clients booking weddings for 2022 and 2023. Navy blue is by far the

most popular colour – in fact blue of all shades does very well, including blue checks in both casual and more formal styles. Our clients will try on a tailcoat to see how they look in something of a different cut, fit and style, and we are finding we do quite well with them. We offer them the choice to rent or buy, as they wish. “As far as prices go, some of our clients have done quite well and have a bigger budget than before the pandemic, so are ready to spend just as much, or even more on their weddings. No-one wants to hear that prices have gone up though – but next year prices will have to go up!” “It’s been an interesting time, for sure” says Stephen Bishop, of Stephen Bishop Suiting, based in

Woking, Surrey. Stephen’s company has been offering a complete wedding package for bridegrooms and groomsmen for more than 25 years, including made-to-measure suits and the option to hire or buy. He is optimistic about the future, and clearly knows his market well. “We don’t really subscribe to trends here,” he says, “since we work from six months to a year-and-a-half ahead anyway. But we are seeing a huge swing back to formality, including tails. I would say that 75% of our customers who come in asking for a lounge suit and end up with tails. “Tweed is also very big, although personally I am not a fan of hot suits in summer! Many wedding guests turn up in tweeds, so I often

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MEN’S ZONE Stephen Bishop sees a return to formal dressing with contemporary accessories

suggest formalising the look of the groom’s party just a little, so that the groomsmen don’t look just like the other guests. Formal, but modern, is a popular look. Lots of clients want a suit in a formal colour like navy but with a plaid waistcoat in something like a Prince of Wales check. Our waistcoats are Somerset-made, in flannel, and are exclusive to us.” Stephen says that budgets seem as generous as ever – if not more so – which is, of course, very good for business! “A huge number of our weddings

have had to be re-scheduled,” he points out, ”which means that couples have had another year or more to save up for their big day. “Many of our clients normally commute into London and haven’t been doing so during lockdown, so they’ve saved on train fares as well. “High Street stores have been more affected than independents like us during the pandemic – some have had supply chain issues, for example, but we’re not in competition with them. I would say about half our grooms buy their suit, but hire

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the groomsmen’s, although some groomsmen prefer to buy because they can wear their suit for work afterwards.” Stephen sees no sign that couples are cutting back on wedding preparations or expenses. “Many of them appear to feel that life’s too short, so why not have a blow-out,” he says. “Everyone seems more happy and buoyant when they come to us, which means, of course, that we have a good time, too, and their confident mood definitely helps our sales!”

Twinkle Toes When it comes to sole mates, it’s anything but plain. Pearls and crystals, metallic leathers and studded heels, the next season is all about big, bold luxury statements Prices quoted are RRP

HARR I ET WI LDE Arabella Block Blue Blossom, a block heel sandal crafted in misty blue suede, hand embellished with ornate cherry blossom in gold with white petals. £500 +44 (0)20 7263 4147 ruth@harrietwilde.com www.harrietwilde.com

C HA R LOT T E M IL L S Jagger Unicorn, left, platform sole and block heel, inspired by Bianca Jagger’s iconic wedding shoes. Iridescent glitter, platform sole, block heel. Also available in wide fit. £240 Henrietta Pearl, centre, in ivory or blue leather, dressed with pearls. Also available in wide fit. £280. Indi Pearl, below: block-heeled sandals with a fluffy, ruffly tulle bow with polka dot stitching. £260 +44 (0)161 971 1827 info@charlottemillsbridal.com www.charlottemillsbridal.com

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DI A NE H AS SA L L

R AC HE L SIM PSO N

Pearly Queen, blush suede mule with gleaming glossy pearl embellishment. £325 Brooke, multi-coloured leathers with gleam, ankle strap fastened with an oval metal buckle. £270

Mirella, Di’s signature style in blush suede covered with a carpet of ivory florals, pearls and frosted diamantés. Organza ribbon ankle ties add a romantic twist. £325 Harper, block heels, ankle strap and pale metallic cords knotted together. £275

Cassis Rose, high-fronted mules in buttersoft blush suede, with an oversized blousy silk rose. £320 +44 (0)7486 390554 di@dianehassall.com www.dianehassall.com

Lauren, in velvety deep navy suede, vintage-inspired lines with curving highlights of metallic leather. £260 +44 (0)121 433 5492 info@rachelsimpsonshoes.co.uk www.rachelsimpsonshoes.co.uk

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E MM Y LONDON

Harriet Powder Blue, in blue suede with a polished satin sash, and an alternative suede strap to change a look. Also available in ivory suede. £465

Bluebell Block, a sensational block heel with dazzling mirror glass and crystal embellishments making for incredible sparkle. Also available in ivory suede. £795

Gabriella, in ivory suede with silver leather straps , features multi-faceted crystals . £795

R A INB OW C LUB

Crystal, in dyeable satin, with a sleek pointed toe, 7cm heel, and silver, crystal and diamanté trim. £99

Freya, in dyeable ivory satin, with high 10cm block heel, and sparkling strap across the foot. £99

Maya, non-dyeable ivory satin, finished with a statement trim of ivory pearls and a delicate ankle strap. £95

+44 20 7704 0012 / enquiries@emmylondon.com

+44(0)1392 207030 / enquiries@rainbowclub.co.uk

www.emmylondon.com

www.rainbowclub.co.uk

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MOVE IT! Little has changed more in communications and marketing than the advent of video in social media. This is the time to re-think your strategy if you want your audience to engage and react, advises Jason Granville

hotography became a part of public life in the mid-19th century, especially during the American Civil War when photographers documented battlefields for the first time. Whereas photography had taken 40,000 years to appear after the earliest pictures – cave paintings – movies followed on

more quickly; inventors came up with a simple toy that made it possible for a series of pictures to be viewed in rapid succession, creating the illusion of motion. Zoetrope first appeared in 1833, and took the world by storm. However, it took until the early 1890s for inventors like Thomas

Edison, Etienne-Jules Marey, and Muybridge to come up with a device that had more in common with today’s video cameras. While only shooting up to 12 frames per second (a fraction of the latest iPhone’s 60 frames per second), this was groundbreaking at the time. In 1895, Auguste and Louis Lumière made a further advance when they introduced the Cinématographe, a projector that could show 16 frames per second. Audiences were spellbound by the films of simple movement and action: images of a baby eating, a hose squirting water, and the workers pouring out of the Lumière factory. All happening While the first films were of commonplace occurrences — trains approaching, people dancing, and

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animals playing – filmmakers soon MySpace quickly became the most started to incorporate storylines and used social media site in the world. music into their works. Between the But in this brave new world, changes years of 1890 and 1927, thousands were happening fast, including the of silent films were produced with advent of Facebook in 2004. the ever-increasing sophistication It was only a year later that of storyline and technical craftsYouTube launched its videomanship. A new art form was born. sharing app, which allowed users By the late 1920s, television to experiment with self-produced stations started content, to appear in while also If you’ve logged in to any America, with creating the the world’s first blessing – or is social media platform electronic TV it blight? – of being invented in self-appointed recently, you might have 1927 by a 21-yearinfluencers. noticed video content old inventor From makeup named Philo within the first ten seconds. tutorials to viral Taylor Farnsworth. ‘Gangnam style’ Why? Because it grabs our dance crazes, It was also the year that The Jazz proves attention far more effectively YouTube Singer – the first that just about feature-length than words or still images anyone or movie with anything can ever can. synchronized go viral on the sound – appeared. internet. Now, By 1971, some 20 years after US the channel sees more than four engineer Charles Ginsburg led the billion daily views and has more than team responsible for the video one billion users worldwide. It wasn’t recorder, our good friends Sony long before pretty much every other stepped into the consumer market social media channel incorporated and introduced videocassette video into their platforms. recorder (VCR) decks and tapes, If you’ve logged in to any social allowing us to make our own movies. media platform recently, you might Then in 2000, things became even have noticed video content within more personal with the advent of the the first ten seconds. first mobile phone incorporating a Why? Because it grabs video camera, Samsung SCH-V200. our attention far more effectively than words or still images ever The birth of the internet Developing in parallel was a medium can. This explains why videos on Instagram that would give video the platform it and Facebook generate needed to become fully integrated more engagement than into our daily lives: any other content type, The first of January 1983 is considered the official birthday of the and Tweets including videos see ten-times internet, with the first social media more engagement. platform appearing in 1997. Social media Six Degrees, created by Andrew platforms know this, Weinreich, was popular with users and therefore give an until 2003, when Tom Anderson came up with MySpace. This new site extra boost to new let users make profiles that played video-related features. their favourite music, and they could Instagram, for example, even design their own backgrounds. is still heavily promoting

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Instagram Reels, making it one of the best growth-hacks a business can use on the app right now. In 2019, users spent an incredible weekly average of six hours and 48 minutes watching online videos, a 59% increase from 2016. And that’s before we consider the impact of the pandemic on our video consumption habits. Today, consumers expect brands to deliver ever-more engaging, entertaining content, and video is one of the most effective formats to do so. And it doesn’t just stop at social media. Let’s look at website content. If you’re a small business owner, you’ve likely heard the motto “content is king” to describe the importance of content marketing. And while written content is effective for many audiences, visual marketing is an even more powerful tool to increase interactions and actions. Remember the phrase “a picture is worth a thousand words” – go one step further by adding that “a one-minute video is worth 1.8 million words” (Dr James McQuivey of Forrester Research). Considering that 46 percent of people who watch a video ad on a business website act after viewing it, it is criminal for you not to include video in your marketing strategy.

PRESENT YOUR PRODUCT And present yourself, too. People react to people and an engaging smile works wonders

more people shop, work and communicate online. While this is convenient, it means that we aren’t putting faces to names as often. To Rank better in Google One of the humanize your brand, use video to key factors that Google uses to rank connect to your audience with as your website is the amount of time close to a face-to-face interaction people spend on your site. So sites as possible – people love doing providing a short, compelling video will generally see higher engagement business with those they like. rates, higher click-through rates, Provide video testimonials and higher conversion rates. In fact, Credibility is a crucial element for any 80 percent of people who watch a business, no matter whether you’re video ad will recall it even a month a start-up, or an established brand. later. You therefore not only get the A great way to impart credibility benefits that come with using video, is straight from the mouths of real as discussed above, but you get people who have purchased your Google turbocharging this by driving product or service and are genuinely more people to your site. happy with it. Showcase your brand’s personality In today’s digital world, more and Include mobile users If you’ve ever So how can you use video help boost your website?

tried reading a long article on a relatively small Smartphone screen, you know how slow-going it can be, even on websites with responsive design. Receiving the same information via video can make the process much easier for the average person. Demonstrate your product Your product may come across at first site as complex and off-putting – remember the first time you learnt to drive? A video can make apparently difficult concepts far simpler, and therefore more appealing to your target audience. If they ‘get’ it, they’re far more likely to buy it. Take note: the opportunities for video are immense. Act on this.

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Understanding Legalities GOING LEGAL

implied into a contract where it is necessary to give business efficacy to the contract. In this case, the judge noted that it was not enough that a term might be fair or reasonable, or even that the parties may have agreed it at the outset if it had been put to them. In short, there was no term in the leases stating that rent would not be payable in the case of an unanticipated event (such as a it. He gave summary judgment for pandemic), and the fact that the the landlords – and in doing so, gave hope to commercial landlords all over parties had not included one did the country struggling to recover rent not mean the contract no longer made commercial sense. It simply from tenants. meant that in the event that use And now we have another case of the property became illegal or that has developed those principles impossible, the risk lay with the further. In October, the owners tenant, and it must pay the rent of London’s Trocadero Centre accordingly. succeeded in a summary judgment The above decision is bad news for application against two cinema tenants although, conversely, good chains, Cineworld and Picturehouse news for landlords. It is reflective Cinemas, for unpaid rent and service of a steady move away from the charges of close to £3m. special measures we have seen over Mindful of the previous failure of the past 18 months. In addition to the tenants in the Westfield case to this clear evidence in a shift of the rely on the Code, the tenants in this Courts’ attitude to non-payment of latest application sought (amongst rent, October also saw the ending of other arguments) to claim that there furlough support, and the ending of should be an implied term in the other COVID temporary restrictions lease which said that rent should not which will weaken the position of all be payable during any period where debtors, including tenants unable to use of the premises was illegal (due pay rent: In particular: to government orders to close) and/ or during which attendance would • Up to 31 June, directors could not not be at a level anticipated – due be personally pursued for any to restrictions on numbers allowed alleged wrongful trading under in – by the parties when the lease was the pandemic. Since 1 July, that agreed. risk is now back on the table for Again, the tenants’ argument has directors of indebted companies. been rejected. A term can only be

Enforced shop closures during the various lockdowns have resulted in many businesses – large and small – being unable to meet their rent obligations to their landlord. We have taken expert advice from Fox Williams LLP on where retailers stand with regard to unpaid rent

n April, there were two Court judgments which acted as a warning to fashion business holding tenancies of retail premises, and who had been refusing to pay their rents as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. We speculated that this might be reflective of the journey out of lockdown, and that fashion retail tenants who were seeking to renegotiate terms or obtain rent-free periods during the pandemic might not have things their own way. The tenants in those cases (including sports fashion retailer Sports Direct and the Fragrance Shop) relied on a newly-established Code of Practice (‘the Code’) governing the responsibilities of landlords and tenants during the pandemic. The tenants tried to claim that the landlords were not entitled to recover rent under the leases, even though the leases stated that rent was due, because the Code strongly encouraged landlords and tenants to communicate and negotiate (rather than take matters to Court). The Judge held that the Code, while important, was not law, and in any event the landlords had sought to comply with

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AG ENTLAW S E MIN A R Avoid blurring the professional and the personal when running your business

It’s a hard ask to be a leader and a friend, isn’t it? As with your customers, you should always avoid

extreme crossing over of the two;

neither too bossy a boss, nor best

10 November 2021 Fox Williams LPP 10 Finsbury Square London EC2A 1AF • From 1 October, it became once again possible to present a winding-up petition on a basis that a company has failed to satisfy a statutory demand. • Other restrictions on windingup petitions are being eased significantly, in that it will no longer be necessary to consider the financial effect of Covid-19 on the company. The past year has also seen a series of extensions to the measures put in place to protect tenants against remedial action by landlords, in respect of rent arrears. At the moment, these restrictions are set to remain in place until 25 March 2022. The ban on a landlord’s right to recover rent by seizing a tenant’s goods under the statutory Commercial Rent Arrears Recovery procedure has also been extended until 25 March 2022. There can be no doubt, though, that Parliament – and the Courts – are keen to resume normal service and are making very plain legislative and judicial steps in that direction. As a result, the arena for tenants with unpaid rent (and other debtors) is becoming more and more unfavourable. Paul Taylor is a corporate partner and Tom Morton is a property senior associate at Fox Williams LLP (www.fashionlaw.co.uk and www.foxwilliams.com) © 2021 Fox Williams LLP

In this year’s seminar we shall discuss: Failure to reach sales targets? How terminated agents may be able to strike back at their principals. It is common for agency agreement to include sales targets. The intention is to ensure performance of the agent and allow the principal to end the agency agreement if the target is not reached. But can an agent terminated for failure to achieve a target claim against the principal? Minimum purchase requirements – can suppliers squeeze out underperforming distributors? If so, what is the best way of doing so? If a distributor is not buying, the supplier is not making sales. So how best can a supplier end its agreement with an underperforming distributor? Do not destroy – the extent of disclosure in litigation and how agency and distribution agreement disputes can be won or lost. English law requires that in litigation both claimant and defendant produce all documents relevant to the dispute – and whether good or bad for their respective arguments. So how best to use disclosure when fighting an agency or distributorship dispute? And also does this mean you should destroy unhelpful documents before commencing litigation? Controlling sales by distributors, dual pricing and other changes – what’s in store for 2022. Many suppliers want to control how distributors resell. But their ability to control is restricted. But the law it is a-changin’. We discuss what suppliers and distributors can expect in 2022. After the formal presentations, there will be an opportunity to ask questions of the speakers and then to network over drinks. We do hope you can join us. There is no charge. For further information click here To attend, email events@foxwilliams.com.

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– it’s what we do! I’m beginning to organise everything from marquees to loos. We have to be organised even when it means nagging and crosschecking everything. We have to get back into working habits. “Our clients are being patient, so it’s down to us to ensure that in 2022 everything can go smoothly. I’m finding that caterers are short-staffed right now. Also, that when you work with an international crowd as I do, you have to be aware of any present or future travel restrictions. For example right now, Chinese and other Asian guests can come to weddings in the UK, but must spend 21 days in quarantine in a Chinese hotel on their return.” Personally I wouldn’t feel comfortable going to a wedding right now, unless it was very small with social distancing and no dancing. Couples can still marry, of course they can, but many have chosen to save their major celebrations until next year. Emiliana Gualtieri founded wedding planner Amoretti back in 2008. The company specialises in weddings in beautiful venues around London and also luxury destination weddings in Italy. Although the pandemic has meant lean times for the company in comparison to the pre-2020 scene, The Government washed its hands Emiliana is now confident that the of us and produced no protocols, industry has turned the corner. as it did for theatres and concert “We work a year in advance at venues. In this industry it was down to least, and in the past year we haven’t individuals to do the right thing. done as many weddings as we had “My business has played its part. Weddings couldn’t take priority when planned to,” she says. “Now, though, people were dying, and as a business we are finding that the clients have owner I felt it was on my shoulders to much more confidence and just want to get on with their new lives. make sure everyone was safe. I did a “Last year, I think they were small event in September, for which everyone involved had to test and be all hoping that Covid would just disappear. Now they know that it checked at the door. I would not be comfortable doing large events yet. I won’t and everyone has to adjust to want a safe environment for my team what they’re calling ‘the new normal’. – the bar staff, the florist, the waiters, One hundred per cent of our clients are ready to celebrate!” the security – as well as clients and Amoretti is very much a high-end their guests. company and Emiliana has found “Having said that, I am sure that her clients are not expecting any weddings will be back next year as corners to be cut. before. Planners plan ahead anyway

Forward Planning

With celebrations on and off, date changes, and the disappointments of past months, wedding planners’ diaries are now filling up for 2022 and what promises to be a very good year. Jill Eckersley talked to three key players

hen we spoke to highend London-based wedding planner Mark Niemierko back in 2020, about the impact the pandemic was having on the wedding industry, he predicted that 2022 was going to be a ‘boom year’ for weddings. There would be new clients, as well as those who had postponed at least some of their celebrations for a year or two. So how is Mark feeling now, as the industry moves slowly and cautiously back to something approaching ‘normality? “Well, as I only do about five weddings a year I can’t speak for the whole industry,” Mark says, “but my events will only be happening from about April 2022 – which means a shutdown of two years.

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IN GRAND STYLE Mark Niemierko, at the very top

end of the planning market is cautiously optimistic

“Budgets are higher for everything, including band hire and decorations,” she says. “Clients are looking to create even more special memories. and that is where we come in. And it’s a lot more fun for us, absolutely. “Destination weddings tend not to be huge anyway, not more than 100 to 150 people. Travel restrictions made things difficult, but we managed to get through it all and we’re pretty confident that will continue. You have to learn from history. Dark times like recession and austerity and war are usually followed by much better times, like the Roaring Twenties that followed the First World War. “Yes, there have been some restrictions in Italy, with regard to things like distancing, but the weather

“I had to source all kinds of things means that outdoor celebrations are from tablecloths and napkins to easier to organise. Some clients had stationery and found that some of the to postpone their London plans but companies I knew Italian weddings had sadly gone went ahead in “Budgets are higher for out of business,” the sun. I’m sure said. “Clients that in 2022, everything, including band she were pretty chilled people will be about it all, though. even keener to hire and decorations. I think they were celebrate!” Clients are looking to just glad to know Last-minute requests from her create even more special that their wedding was finally going brides – some of memories, and that is to happen!” whom had had Tichea did to postpone their where we come in” co-ordinate some weddings more smaller weddings than once – were challenging for planner Tichea Brade during lockdown and found that the from Hertfordshire company Carmela intimacy of a simpler celebration could be really rewarding. Weddings. N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 2 1 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 87

GREAT DESTNATIONS

Emiliana Gualtieri of Amoretti sees no down-grading of big-day budgets

“In one case we arranged videoconferencing so that family members who couldn’t attend could feel part of the event and hear all the speeches,” she said. “Then we arranged a wedding in June for a couple who had originally intended to marry in Mexico. Instead, they chose Battersea Park, with colourful outdoor celebrations and the reception at the Pump House. Even though it was a small-scale

celebration it was still filled with love, as a wedding should be! “As planners, we can still support our brides and grooms, whatever the circumstances. Before Covid, I had more international clients including some in Australia where they’ve had different lockdown restrictions in different states. Now, everyone is desperate to move forward. “Couples seem to be sticking to

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the same budgets as before, and venues, I find, are raring to go in 2022. I’m taking on as much as I can and trying to give the best service. “I felt for all my couples having to postpone, and now I’m excited for them. We shall be seeing more international travel in 2022 and everyone – planners and clients alike – has to feel more confident about going forward.”

Moving Forward We’re all having to adapt to a new way of working in this very different world of ours, and now more than ever your team needs to know what is expected of them and how best to achieve it

Are you and your staff firing on all cylinders? Life has been very challenging over the past 18 months. All of us are having to adapt to a new way of working. Let’s remember your team may also find it challenging to adapt when getting back to work. Having been away from the Addressing changes in the business for such a lengthy time current climate can bring up old habits which were Adapting to new ways of working present pre-lockdown. It’s important can be choppy waters for everyone to recognise this and work through to negotiate. This inevitably trickles any issues in a timely fashion. through to impact on your customer’s Bridal retail, as we all know, is very experience, too. hard physical and emotional work. New rules and regulations from the All those who work on the shop Government seem to be constantly floor – and indeed anywhere in your developing. Having to try to integrate business – need to have bags of these changes and adapt them into energy, stamina, and motivation. your business takes patience and Sometimes this can be hard, creativity. particularly in a busy retail Keep all your staff in the picture environment, a Saturday afternoon, for regarding how Government and example. I remember very well. societal changes may affect your Grabbing a sandwich as you are business and their jobs. going along. High heels in the morning Their roles, and the intricacies of and flats in the afternoon. Talking peaking to staff regularly (in so much during the day your mouth person as opposed to via SM) how they do their jobs, have already becomes dry. will help alleviate any niggles, evolved, haven’t they, from the wearing of face masks, sanitising worries, or concerns and And who can forget, pin thumb feelings of uncertainty that they may everything regularly and the whole and pin finger! Yes, our poor digits process of running appointments. be experiencing. which ache and bleed. Not to mention Regular meetings are invaluable in The length of an appointment may be bridal shoulder from carrying all those longer or shorter now. The number order to recognise the systems and heavy dresses! of guests a bride can bring with them structures that may need extra input So, ease staff back into their jobs. from you in order to help staff excel in may have lessened – in some cases Avoid piling on the workload. Where no bad thing. their positions. possible, divide appointments and Feelings of uncertainty and I understand some bridal business floating duties between staff giving instability are normal. These feelings owners work remotely – and their everyone a change of scene and time are best managed and worked reasons why. However, physically to recharge their batteries. Stagger through in a natural and easy way. Use appointments and workloads; ensure being in your premises regularly will what could be perceived as negative help reinforce your commitment to regular breaks. energy in a positive way. your staff and to the business. It will That way, you can be confident your Don’t panic and beat yourselves up. team and your customers are getting give a good deal of reassurance to everyone. Strong leadership is vital in Go with the flow, take your time, and the most out of their customer/bridal remember to breathe! any business. consultant interactions.

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TALK AND MORE TALK Constant communication with your team is vital if they are to deliver the best

Provide extra training and guidance The airline industry I heard on the national news, while writing this piece, is re-training staff returning to work. From the all important baggage handlers, through to air hosts/ hostesses and even pilots. It seems that everyone has become a little rusty in recent months due to WFH (work from home), not working at all, and popping in and out of bricks and mortar businesses. Training and retraining in all aspects of staff duties and responsibilities should be pertinent and regular. This industry has changed dramatically over the past few years, and certainly in the last two. Ensure you are giving your team the most compatible, relevant tools required for their jobs. Investing in the right advice and training will help you meet new challenges head on. And, as an added bonus, not only will you all reap the financial rewards of an even more successful business, but you will also stay one step ahead of your competition, securing and retaining your well-earned place as the number one bridal retailer in your area. Managing change Keep a comprehensive list of jobs to do which you and your staff review regularly: daily/weekly/monthly. Focus on the top few that you need to work on day by day so that you are able to support your staff and your business in a way which ensures continued success. Take your staff with you on this

we can always improve and should always aim to maintain the highest of standards; the WOW factor, if you like. Having said that, avoid trying to be everything to everyone. As I always say, small and perfectly formed is preferable to diluting your business to such an extent by trying to attract every single customer out there. You’ll find that the core of who you are, your values and beliefs; the reasons you started your business will become compromised. Focus on what you do the best. I believe – and teach – that it is so fantastic journey. Let them be part of important to recognise when good is your story. Statistics show when staff feel valued, productivity, positivity and good enough. job satisfaction skyrocket. Lockdown again? Another round? Surely not? I hope not. Your customers It’s as well to prepare for this scenario It is important to remember, as our lives and jobs have changed over the to happen again, though. Make the past couple of years so, undoubtedly, most out of the winter months, which historically tends to be a quieter have your customers lives, too. trading period. You could consider More than ever, they want to shop one of or all of the following: a sample around. They have been deprived sale, a promotion, a competition, a of this amazing experience and fashion show, etc. now want to make the most of it. Keep your brides in the picture It is important then that you have about what is happening in your the necessary sales, listening and negotiating skills to help them in their boutique. Maintain a visible presence on SM because this is where your decision-making process. customers will undoubtedly make up We live in a world of instant their minds whether they feel you can gratification (whatever happened help them or not. Be there for them. to delayed gratification?!). Your Establish your boutique as the customers may now expect instant place your brides want to be a part and perfect customer service and of; your unique community that won’t shy away from getting onto offers a safe space, somewhere they their SM and talking about what they are guaranteed to have a fabulous consider are bad experiences. experience, and where they will find And as we all know, their feelings and expectations can more often than and buy the dress of their dreams. Promote a feeling of belonging not be heightened to stratospheric levels and blown out of all proportion. which in turn will generate a human connection. Isn’t that what we have all The whole process of handling missed this past two years? customer objections, therefore, All the best moving forward and needs to be managed smoothly, in keep up the amazing work. a respectful, knowledgeable, and above all, professional way. Only by Helena Cotter doing this can you ensure a mutually E: info@helenacotter.co.uk positive outcome. W: www.helenacotter.co.uk While bridal retailers and staff, in my opinion, offer the absolute best of Insta: hccoaching the best in customer service and care Twitter: @HCSalesTrainer to be found in any retail environment, Linkedin: Helena Cotter

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2025 will see the end of an era. The analogue phone system that has kept us all in touch for more than a century will be switched off and telephone calls will be routed over the internet instead. Chris Partridge reports

End of the line W

hy will the phone as we know it, not be part of the future? The aim is mainly to save costs, and the cost of maintaining the vast network of copper wires to every business and home in the country is vast. And users are already voting with their wallets and disconnecting their landlines in favour of internet telephony or their mobile phones. The analogue system is dying. When the great switch-off happens, most people will barely notice. Their phone number will stay the same. All they will have to do is unplug the phone from the old landline and transfer it to a gadget called an analogue telephone adaptor (ATA)

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attached to the broadband router. New routers and wifi hubs are coming out with an ATA built in, so all you have to do is plug the old phone into the BT-style socket at the back. Clear advantages Many will want to take full advantage of the benefits of digital telephony, including low call costs, easy integration of phone calls with business software and the magical ability to have the same number on multiple devices, such as your mobile, your home and your laptop – anywhere you can get an internet connection. You will never miss a call again. This will probably involve investing

in a new VOIP (voice over internet protocol) exchange, or perhaps getting a hosted service such as Vonage or BT Cloud Voice, which takes the hassle away. Of course, switching off a system as large as the analogue phone network (officially known as the PSTN or public switched telephone network) needs a lot of preparation and that has already started.

GADGET OF THE MONTH: NOKIA T20 TABLET

What happens now? The first steps will be to take analogue phones off the market and encourage (and then compel) people renewing their contracts to switch to broadband only. This will start happening within the next year or so. Then there will be a publicity blitz, especially targeting the elderly and other vulnerable groups. The aim is to have everyone on digital before the switch-off. There are, however, some devices on the analogue network that perform important functions in the background and are easily overlooked, such as door entry alarms, payment terminals and fire alarms. If you have any of these – and retailers most certainly do – it is worth ensuring they can be moved to digital. Another casualty of the switch-off will be ISDN, which is still in use by some services. One disadvantage of the move to digital is that, unlike analogue phones, digital phones need electricity to work. If there is a power cut, your phones will go down. Of course, now we all have mobiles this need not be a disaster, but it is worth thinking about. An interesting possible solution from phone suppliers Andrews & Arnold is a special sim card that allows a mobile phone to pose as a regular extension on a landline but using the cellular network. If the power goes down, your mobile will still allow you to take calls to your ‘proper’ number. It is always worth reviewing your phone system and looking at the many benefits and savings a digital system can provide, and now is probably a good time to do it.

In the last issue, I wrote about the resurgence of the tablet after years of sluggish sales, and right on cue a new one has been launched by Nokia, a brand better known for phones. The T20 is a quality 10” tablet at a budget price that is expected to do very well in commercial applications, including retail, where good battery life, robust construction and good value score above fripperies like fancy cameras. It looks like a good option for sales staff – a case in strong flexible plastic is also available to protect it in the event of the inevitable drops. Stand-out features are a bright 2K screen, a beefy (8200mAh) battery giving about 15 hours of surfing, or seven hours of binge video watching, and a stylish body in sand-blasted aluminium. Built-in memory is a less-than-generous 64GB but there is a card slot supporting up to 512GB which should be enough for anyone. It comes it two versions, one intended for home or office use with Wifi only, the other with 4G data and GPS for mobile users. The T20’s forward-facing camera is a very basic 8MP unit, but the only real use for a camera in a tablet is to scan documents and QR codes, and it is perfectly fine for that. The selfie camera has a resolution of 5MP which is good for video calls and Zoom meetings. The charger in the box delivers a decent 10W but the tablet supports 15W charging for a much faster fill. A somewhat surprising omission is a fingerprint sensor, which means you either have to use a PIN or pattern to unlock, which is fiddly, or facial recognition which is not very secure. If the tablet is shared between staff, however, each one should log on with a PIN or pattern. Other omissions are near field communication (NFC - used for contactless payments) and support for a stylus, but neither of these technologies are likely to be used by a tablet used by a sales assistant. Some of the most attractive features are intangible, however. Nokia promises to upgrade the OS for two years, which should take you up to Android 13, and to update the security systems monthly for three years. Nokia uses a ‘pure’ version of Android so new versions can come through quickly - the current Android 11 should be updated to Android 12 in the next few months. And all of this for a mere £180 (£200 for the 4G version.) That is excellent value for money. S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 1 ♦ W E D D I N G T R A D E R ♦ 93

“I still have not got over Harrogate! Seeing people I have only met on Zoom for close to two years was one of the biggest thrills – so many smiling faces and warm welcomes from suppliers. Really makes you realise how much you’ve missed that face-to-face thing.”

JESUS PEIRO

“As much as I enjoyed being back in the thrust of things, I personally would have felt far more relaxed if the Harrogate show organisers had implemented their own restrictions and insisted everyone wore masks all the time. Having had three members of the family suffer with Covid early on, and recently my 11-yearold nephew, I felt uncomfortable and in fact left a day early.” “Some suppliers who were less than supportive in the early days of lockdown, actually apologised when I saw them at Harrogate and one took the time to explain the problems they had been trying to deal with. It did make me see I’d been only focused on my own problems.”

“I’d be really interested to know if other shop owners are finding that brides have become more demanding than ever. It goes without saying that we have been overwhelmingly understanding about the problems the pandemic has brought to their plans, for some more than once, but twice in the past few weeks I’ve been faced with a ‘what are you going to do about it?’ attitude. I’m not sure what they think we’ve been doing for the past 18 months. I know, of course, this is all about demand for big discounts, but it is really hard for me and my staff to remain polite and supportive. Are others dealing with the same attitudes and how are they coping?”

“I bought with care at Harrogate. Less than I’d planned in terms of spend, but much more than I’d expected in terms of new looks. I picked up two new labels, which I love, and came away ready to clear the rails when they arrive. The excitement of the good old days is back!”

And Finally We knew this one would be full of positivity!

“I got some brilliant advice from the Get Savvy team and I will certainly be taking many of their suggestions on board. I guess the more questions you ask, the more information you gather, and the clearer, then, the way forward.”

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Wedding Trader - issue 26

Articles inside

TECHNO

TRAINING

AND FINALLY

MAKING PLANS

ELLIE’S PLACE

GORGEOUS GUYS

MOVING PICTURES

LEGAL

PETA’S PICK

PORTFOLIO

TWINKLE TOES

MEMBERSHIP MATTERS

HARROGATE HIGHLIGHTS

BEST SELLERS

OUT KINDA TOWN

CROSSING OVER

BRAVO BARCELONA

SECOND OPINION

LETTER FROM AMERICA

TALKING POINT