Wedding Trader - issue 33

BADGLEY

Ed’s Letter

New year, new intentions, and a world of new possibilities ahead of us. One cannot help, despite the difficulties we are facing due to the inevitable recession, seeing light at the end of the tunnel and feeling positive about the future and enthusiastic about what we can do to make a difference.

To many that means reviewing their business strategy and investigating the value of taking a different approach. And there are so many options open to us all. Closing an extra day or half day a week to save on bills is something to consider, but do you actually know when your quietest time is? Sue Lovell of SNOB would have put her money on Wednesday, but when she looked at the hard facts and figures, she discovered she was wrong, her Wednesdays were, in fact, among her best times. Check out her reaction on page 16.

Discussion with industry colleagues is hugely helpful, and something readers mention to us all the time – see the comments on And Finally, page 92, and you realise the value of heartfelt conversation. The long pandemic period, if nothing else, brought people together to share thoughts and exchange viewpoints. And thankfully that’s one of the things that have remained.

So, sharing and caring will be a feature in 2023. As will reviewing how we work with suppliers, and with brides themselves. This year’s shows – the detail is on page 24 – will celebrate the start of a new cycle. We are looking forward to it.

WEDDING

EDITOR SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

Andy Allen Art Director

“The formalwear

(p38)

Jade Pepperell Love Our Wedding

“I’m a firm believer that accessories are essentials, not just top ups to a look. I love Peta’s choices.” (p60)

Martha Cooke Head of Ad sales

“Those new laws will make getting married anywhere a real possibility. That is incredibly exciting” (p54)

Wedding Trader magazine is an online magazine read by the best bridal retailers all over the UK. Designed and created by the makers of Love Our Wedding magazine and findyourdreamdress.co.uk, Wedding Trader is the trade string to the otherwise consumer bow of Meant To Be Media Ltd.

collections really make you think about how style brave you actually are.”

TALKING POINT

More More More

List out the season’s key design trends and put them all together in one gorgeous separates story. The result is this amazing number from Rosa Clara’s Aire Barcelona label. A oneshouldered puffed sleeve top, thigh-high slit skirt, and pulling it all together a wrap around belt with a big bow. The new collection, which includes floral print organzas, is what puts the wow in wow factor. www.airebarcelona.com

The latest news in the wedding world, right here, right now

Introducing Pen-Liv

Bridal Collective has introduced PEN·LIV, a new collection for brides looking for modern, couture gowns with a contemporary edge and youthful sexy vibe. As with all of the company’s collections, emphasis will be placed on craftsmanship, fit and affordability.

Named in tribute to the two daughters of Bridal Collective Founder and CEO Mary Nguyen, the brand serves as a loving legacy for them. PEN·LIV is thoughtfully crafted by Artistic Director Kang Chun Lin and a team of designers with over 20 years of experience in couture bridalwear.

Sweet, sexy and sophisticated, the debut collection is made up of 14 figure-flattering silhouettes and exquisite detailing.

See it at National Bridal Market, Chicago, 12-14 March, at European Bridal Week, Messe Essen, 1-3 April, and at Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, Barcelona 21-23. For more information, visit www.penliv.com

THE ULTIMATE UNDIES

Few brides would say no to delicious lingerie – if not to wear under that dream dress then certainly under a favourite fashion item. Bionco Evento has a brilliant choice, as well as those essential petticoats designed for every gown silhouette. See the collection at www.bianco-evento.com along with bridalwear and accessories.

MEMBERSHIP MATTERS

BrideCo is a Trade Association for Independent Bridal shop owners who understand the benefits of working together as a co-operative. The forum offers a platform for sharing views, advice and experiences, supporting others and helping to create and shape a positive, respected and valued bridal retailing community.

BrideCo took part in research and steering groups with the Department of Health and Social Care (DHSC) for Test and Trace regulations, helping to develop guidance for Close Contact Businesses – the Shop with Confidence initiative – and helped individual bridal stores petition local government and MPs to be correctly recognised as CCB for Local Restriction Support Grants.

BrideCo has recently partnered with DivideBuy, an independent credit provider, offering its member stores the opportunity to provide their customers 0% Interest Free Finance, to help brides spread the cost of purchasing their dream wedding dress over 12 months.

Says founder Sue Lovell, “We understand that every business is different, and has individual requirements, and we are thrilled that DivideBuy has recognised the concept and professionalism of BrideCo.

“We are very excited at the response from members, and it’s great to see the Finance now being promoted in stores. We are working with DivideBuy to promote our participating stores nationwide throughout 2023, and we are looking forward to working together to bring our brides even more reasons to visit our stores.”

Each BrideCo member is vetted and checked for their professional credentials and has to agree to a Code of

Conduct, which includes having a professional social media presence and social media accountability.

“At the heart of BrideCo is the understanding that we are all independent but we all want each other to succeed and thrive, as we know that sometimes it can be a lonely place running a business,” says Sue. “Regardless of the size or level of success of our individual stores, BrideCo is a positive place to be. We may not all have expansion plans, but we all want to continue to grow and strengthen our positions and give our customers the very best bridal experience.

“BrideCo offer members an opportunity to network with other bridal shop owners, whether in person or online. From Spa Days to Training and Mentor Days, chatting on the forum or to individual members, we all understand that by sharing our experience, our knowledge and personal recommendations we can help build a strong and supportive community.”

One member, Rachel of Bourne Bridal in Bourne, had this to say: “For me, joining BrideCo is about knowing that there are other shops out there, who can offer nonjudgemental advice and support.  It’s nice knowing you are not alone”.

If you would like to learn more about becoming a BrideCo Member, visit www.brideco.co.uk for full details of all the benefits of joining this positive and professional trade association, or email info@brideco.co.uk

Pure London partners with Export Angels to create ‘trading in the uk/europe report’

Pure London, the global fashion buying platform for womenswear, accessories, jewellery and footwear, 12- 14 February at Olympia, London, has partnered with Export Angels to provide international exhibitors with invaluable trading advice on showing and selling in the UK post-Brexit.

The report, written by Lesley Batchelor OBE, Co-Founder of ExportAngels.com, export champion, and an international trade expert with over 40 years’ experience of getting the goods to the right place at the  right time, provides top tips for getting goods to a UK exhibition with the changes made to the process since leaving the EU, key information to know and use when completing the documentation when sending goods across the UK border and what to consider during and post show.

Each section is full of helpful links to templates and information to assist with understanding what is needed and why. To view and download the full report visit https://www.purelondon.com/trading-uk-europe.

NEW YORK

DESSY GROUP

EST. 1939

UK distribution of The Dessy Group is now in the capable hands of Ruth Larkin. Many of you will know Ruth from her highly successful company Larkin Bridal Ltd which she established ten years ago. The business distributes across the globe in 32 countries.

All UK operations for The Dessy Group will now be handled by Ruth so both existing stockists and new enquiries can contact her at ruth@dessy.com or 0845 838 1041.

Visit us at London Bridal Fashion Week Stand #C46

Consumer web site: www.dessy.co.uk | Wholesale portal: www.retailer-response.com

First Person

adapt to the situation, rather than proactively planning and making things happen, as we’d normally like to do.

It’s 2023 already - Happy New Year! But where have the last three years gone, please?

Customers, with their fluctuating expectations, and our suppliers with their oftentimes surprising take on the market and how many samples it’s possible to buy after three stagnant years, have both conspired to make for a very ‘interesting’ trading period. We’ve all had to react quickly in order best to

On top of all of this, there’s that age-old question; what will the next wave of brides want? What will they be looking for and what on earth will we all be buying in a couple of months for our shops? Gone are the days when we’d wait anxiously for the next collections, eager to see what original ideas, fabrics or shapes would be presented to us. The mission for all of us then was to buy correctly for our specific bridal tribes, knowing that whatever trend we picked up for our stores, it needed to be correct specifically for our area and for our bride. Once we’d done that, it was, to a greater degree, we bridal shops who dictated the fashions and trends; what brides would actually see, and ultimately buy.

Long before Covid reared its ugly head, it has to be said (and said with a good deal of regret) that things

Laura Daly says a whole new mindset is needed now to understand what brides of today – and tomorrow – really really want, and what influences those choices

Laura Daly Owner of Bellissima Weddings in Chelmsford

“There’s an awful lot of ‘samesame’ out there and it’s becoming increasingly rare to find much original thought in mainstream bridal at all.”

were moving very swiftly away form this formula and firmly towards a more ‘homogenous’ bridal shopping experience with fewer unique designs and more ‘cookiecutter’ dresses.

Now, post Covid, with war in Europe, and a topsy-turvy world, there’s an awful lot of ‘same-same’ out there and it’s becoming increasingly rare to find much original thought in mainstream bridal at all.

So, how are we supposed to buy for our brides? How do we remain as unique as possible, when unique for a bride really means ‘perfect for me’ and not ‘completely different to everyone else’?

I think the answer lies in what our customer is looking at and searching for online - what she’s got on her wedding inspiration board on Pinterest, for example, and what her friends are tagging her in on Facebook (and her comments and responses), or what she’s being force-fed by certain labels on Instagram.

Get inside the bride’s head

I think it’s wise to get all the information you can from your bride when she’s booking in - importantly, her Insta handle, Pinterest and Facebook, too. Then it’s worthwhile checking out her accounts, so that you can see what styles she likes or dislikes.

If her wedding date is coming up soon, with the lead times on gowns being what they are, there obviously isn’t time for you to take any great inspiration for your next buying trip. But there is still likely to be plenty of information to be gleaned from her social media activities, which could be very useful in helping her enjoy a seamless journey from her first visit through to finding her gown with you.

However, if her wedding is further away, this is where you can help yourself see where future trends may lie. You may notice that these brides aren’t all taking inspiration from lace sheath gowns with very long trains or A-line dresses with illusion necklines... they’ve seen thousands of them already on models online, not to mention the ones they’ve seen in person at the weddings of their friends or relatives.

Perhaps these girls are on the look-out for something a bit different. Most likely, gowns from expensive couture labels, and often they are either international labels with huge price tags but little or no representation in the UK, or the images are of older gowns no longer in production. But these are the dresses you should take notice of and keep in mind when you are next buying.

Most mainstream labels will have done similar research, they may well have developed something in their next collections already to show you - but, unless you recognise that ‘different’ dress as something that’s all over your bride’s feed, it’s easy to dismiss it as too much of a gamble.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not talking about buying copies here; far from it. Mainstream fashion (albeit at a very much faster pace) does exactly the same - it’s not unusual to find a very similar garment at four or five different price points. It’s no longer the case that, by the time a style made it down the ladder to Primark, it was a dead trend - these days that style is everywhere at the same time.

Our customers understand this. After all, that’s how they take inspiration with their regular clothes, so I think it makes sense to tap into this mindset and make sure you’re playing the long game.

And, when you do see originality, if it’s wearable and commercial enough, snap it up - give it a go - live a little - because, yes, you’re worth it and, no, we don’t want a nice safe lace A-line to take over the world... How boring would that be?

Second Opinion

Being ready and willing to face the challenges that this new year looks certain to bring will put you one step ahead. Sue Lovell has a plan

Has everyone recovered from celebrating a proper Christmas? Did you long for a Covid restriction Christmas again, or did you, like me, make up for all the lost Xmas parties of 2021. I also spent my recovery time watching shows from the 1980s, laughing with my kids about the dark ages that were my youth, team Red Dwarf or Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy vs Dr Who?

So here we are, the dawn of 2023 – dare we hope for a smooth ride, prosperity even? As Covid becomes as common as Flu, we can now look forward to more predicted doom and gloom. Drum roll please, enter The Cost of Living Crisis!

I am looking at this new crisis with optimism, and I intend to embrace the issues faced by many, if not all of us all. Whether you are sitting pretty, of sitting on a cliff edge, the cost of living crisis is going to have an impact on us all. People will undoubtedly be cutting back, our costs are already rising, so we will all be feeling the pinch on some level. Now is the time to plan, to get us safely through this new crisis. It is time to identify our strengths and say goodbye to our weak spots.

Sue Lovell Owner of Susan Nicholas Opulent Bridal, Cambridgeshire

Putting intentions in place New Year is usually when I take stock of myself and my business. I take time to think. You know that feeling you get when you wistfully see all these fabulous people, organised, top of their game gurus, and you aspire to be like that; or perhaps you are already all round fabulous?

I’d love to say I am just like that. Sadly, I am not, and at this stage in my life, that kind of change is a lost cause. I am a complete charlatan, a chaotic mess of a woman, who flies by the seat of her pants. I am reactive and impulsive, I lead with my heart not my head. I see the good in everyone first, get mortally wounded when I find out they are not that nice after all. I fight for the underdog, champion the successful and I am super sensitive and hideously insensitive all at once.

But God loves a trier - and I most definitely am one of those! I am nothing if not realistic; real change is probably too late for me, but I can adapt and work with what I already know. If I was a Life Coach, my logo would be Headless Chicken.

It’s exciting stuff, living on the edge, but even I have to have some organisation to have an idea where I am headed, even if every New Year I seem surprised that I am still here!

What makes us so brilliant is that we are all marching to our own drum, we all know what our USP is and what makes us different, and we know that we do not all need to be doing the same thing – trying to be like everyone else –a chain rather than independents.

Our strength is knowing that being independent means being ourselves. We are not factory produced, we appeal to different types of people, because we are different people.

Knowing your numbers

Whilst we can learn so much from others, there is also so much that cannot be taught, it comes from within.

I have never been at one with numbers, I get more pleasure from my bedsheets than my spreadsheets, but I do know that all the information that I need is at my fingertips, free of charge, under my nose. I make time to sift through the data I have collected, so I can understand what I am doing well, where I am falling, what I need to focus on and what or who I need to let go. It’s all in the data!

Watching the Hitchhiker’s Guide reminded me of the importance of data. The writer, Douglas Adams, worked out that the answer to life, the universe and everything. It is 42. How did he work that out? Well, the Super Computer gave them the answer. The book is more than 40 years old and well before PCs were mainstream, but it bizarrely can relate to bridal retail.

Adams knew that the computer’s output is determined entirely by what is input. Putting in data that described life, the universe and everything is by virtue of the volume of data, meaningless. Data isn’t useful unless you know what to do with it. So are you using the critical data you already have at your fingertips? Is the input to your own super computer accurate? Using our data sources will help support our own human judgements and instincts.

I know I have talked about this before, ‘knowing your customer’ but it is so important that we really understand who our customer is, not just who we hope her to be. Our data will show us where she comes from, how she finds us, where she hopes to get

“Our strength is knowing that being independent, means being ourselves. We are not factory produced, we appeal to different types of people, because we are different people.”

married, what type of wedding she is having, her size, her budget, her style. Once we know all these things, we can plan how we decorate our stores to make her feel at home, how we present and where we promote our websites and how we get her attention in the first place.

Our customer changes. The way she shops is changing, so we need to be able to see those changes and move with them. If you use Bridalive, or any CRM, you can easily collate your data. Export it to a spreadsheet and you may be surprised what you find. Many of us are guilty of collecting it, but doing nothing with it.

Knowing where you stand

On a recent inspection of my data I was surprised to see that my cheaper label was actually costing me money. The cost of that collection far outweighed the return. I found out that my clients didn’t even ‘favourite’ those dresses. So why was I investing in them? Mainly because it gave me a better entry level price point, but clearly that wasn’t as important to my clients as I had thought.

With the C.O.L.C. in full swing, I apologise for stating the obvious – but our shops need to be warm. With fuel costs rising, that may not be top of your list of priorities, but it should be. Recently. a customer announced she would be buying from me, purely because my shop was warm and cosy. Four shops she had visited had been cold and too unpleasant to get undressed. Saving money on the heating may be costing sales in the long run.

If you are like many shops, considering closing an extra day over the winter period to save on a day’s heating, check your data to make sure you are closing on the right day of the week. You probably know the days you sell the most and the days that you are generally quieter, but check your data to make sure that your instincts are right.

I thought Wednesday was my quiet day, but on further investigation I found it is usually very profitable; I just tried to have a day off on a Wednesday, so I convinced myself they were quieter. Now it makes more sense to close Mondays, having two back-to-back days without the heat constantly running,

I spent a lot of time at the end of 2022 up to my

earrings in data, finance and in meetings to ensure all that I do is compliant, and by the book in regard to finance. You can’t be chaotic with other people’s money, and my clients need to be able to trust that their purchase is safe and solid.

I have managed to secure Interest Free Payment Plans for BrideCo members, so we can offer our clients a more flexible way to pay for their dress. This Cost of Living Crisis may adversely affect our sales, so we need to pre-empt this, finding ways of making it easier for our customers to pay.

I know many shops offer payment plans through their own books, but these can cause humongous headaches, as they are not regulated or controlled, and can often fall foul of compliance rules. If you do offer your own inhouse payment plan, make sure your contracts correctly reflect consumer credit law, to ensure both you and your customer are protected.

In the spirit of being organised, I decided to start with my personal life and tackle the nightmare that is my kitchen. Taking responsibility for my chaotic cupboards, ownership of my carefree dumping of cooking things I don’t use, don’t know how to use, or even know their purpose has been very cathartic. (Well, at least that’s what the lady said who I paid to do it for me). I may not be able to change habits of a lifetime, but I can adapt the way I get the results I want.

“I get more pleasure from my bedsheets than my spreadsheets, but I do know that all the information that I need is at my fingertips, free of charge, under my nose.”

SHOWTIME

With freedom to travel and time to explore the newest offerings, we bring your diary up-to-date with details of the main bridal and fashion events for the year. Start planning now

SCOOP

29-31 January

Location: Saatchi Gallery, London

Exhibitors expected: 250+ Special features: Important cutting edge labels, with lingerie, swimwear and loungewear complementing the ready-to-wear and accessories collections, and an impressive visitor list of many of the best names in the business.

t: +44(0) 7947 408643 e: karen@karenradley.co.uk w: www. scoop-international.com

HARROGATE FASHION WEEK

5-6 February

Location: Harrogate Convention Centre

Exhibitors expected: Womenswear, accessories, lingerie and footwear. Special features: Take advantage of special accommodation rates.

t: +44(0) 1423 623701 e: sarah@harrogatefashionweek.com w: www.harrogatefashhionweek

MODA AT SPRING FAIR

5-8 February

Location: NEC Birmingham

Exhibitors expected: Thousands over all with many hundreds in the fashion sector.

Special features: Seminar programme, sustainability trail; trend-led fashion shows.

T: +44(0) 20 3545 9651

E: modasupport@hyve.group W: www.moda-uk.co.uk

PURE LONDON

12-14 February

Location: Olympia London

Exhibitors expected: Many hundreds. Special features: Seminars, catwalk shows, advice clinic on sustainability.

t: +44(0) 20 3855 9550

e: visitor@purelondon.com w:: www.purelondon.com

NATIONAL BRIDAL MARKET CHICAGO

12-14  March / 20-22 August

Location: Merchandise Mart, Chicago

Exhibitors expected: Womenswear, accessories, lingerie and footwear Special features: After show parties, daily events. Reduced hotel rates for all attendees and some complimentary hotels for new buyers.

t: +1 312 527 7763

e: jhelfin@themart.com w: www.nationalbridalmarket.com

BRIDAL WEEK LONDON AND WHITE GALLERY LONDON

19-21 March

Location: Excel, London

Exhibitors expected: Bridal Week 250, White Gallery 70 Special features: Catwalk shows, cocktail and Champagne bars, VIP Lounge, Business Advice Area.

t: +44(0) 1423 770120 e: georgia@bridal-uk.com w: www.bridalweek.com

ROME BRIDAL WEEK

25-27 March

Location: Fiera di Roma

Exhibitors expected: 350+ Special features: Great relaxation and networking facilities; daily catwalk performances.

t: +31 318 769 233 e: info@romebridalweek.it w: romebridalweek.it/en/

EUROPEAN

BRIDAL WEEK

1–3 April

Location: Messe Essen, Germany

Exhibitors expected: 500+ Special features: With the coming together of European Bridal Week and Interbride, this is the big one, with exhibitors from across the globe. Fashion shows, meet and greet sessions, Champagne Bar and Instagram Candy Bar. Free parking, shuttle buses from and to the airport and much much more.

t: +31 318 769 233

e: info@united-fairs.com w: info@united-fairs.com

12-13 April

Location: 7th floor, 05, 450 West 31st Street, New York

Exhibitors expected: 25

Special features: A gathering of some of the world’s most fashion forward designers for a personalised boutique shopping experience. Complimentary wifi and a private, relaxing viewing environment.

T: +61 2 8072 0679

E: cathleen@onefinecollective.com W: www.onefinedaybridalmarket.com/

BARCELONA BRIDAL FASHION WEEK (BBFW)

Fashion Shows: 19-22 April 2023

Trade Show: 21-23 April 2023

Location: Fira de Barcelona

Exhibitors expected: Many hundreds

Special features: Barcelona Bridal Night, on the 19th, is the gala event of BBFW and where last year Viktor & Rolf premiered their Mariage bridal collection; Marchesa and Reem Acra have also shown their collections at this event on the previous years. This year‘s star designer will be announced shortly.

T: +34 932 332 000

E: info@firabarcelona.com W: www.barcelonabridalweek.com

BRIDAL WEEK HARROGATE

10-12 September

Location: Harrogate Convention Centre

Exhibitors expected: 350

Special features: Terrace Cafe – serving selection of sandwiches and salad bar, drinks and snacks with outside seating, Champagne Bar, VIP Lounge, catwalks, Business Advice Area.

T: +44(0) 1423 770120

E: georgia@bridal-uk.com

W: www.bridalweek.com

TALKING BARCELONA

Albasarí Caro, the new director of Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, brings the experience of a long and hugely successful career spearheading the expansion of ready-to-wear and bridal fashion companies to the show equation.

Wedding Trader talked to the woman who is building the future

Is BBFW something you have always wanted to be involved with?

In fact, I already took part in BBFW during my time as head of expansion for the Pronovias international franchise network, a role I held for almost ten years. It is a show that I know and in which I have participated from the brand’s point of view, and like me it is known by almost all bridal fashion professionals around the world. It is the hub of bridal fashion on a global level, where leading brands and also young national and international talents meet with the operators in this field to network, do business and take the pulse of the sector.

What do you believe makes this show stand out from all others?

As I mentioned before, it is the leading show in its sector due to the variety and quality of the offer, which also accounts for 75% of exhibitors and 65% of international visitors. Another great added value is the unique format of BBFW, which encompasses both the trade show and the catwalk at the same time, in a spectacular exhibition centre and in a city like Barcelona. All this makes it an event without equal.

The pandemic – what have been the greatest changes for the exhibition itself?

During the pandemic the show had to adapt to the circumstances and held an exclusively virtual edition. To this end, an online platform was created. In fact, we were the only bridal fashion show that was able to offer this virtual connection during the pandemic.

Do you see changing the format of the show in 2023 and what shape might it take?

The format works very well and therefore we will not change it. What we will do is enrich the content. We will put in place a five-year plan to offer brands and buyers high added value in terms of information on market dynamics, advice on various sales methods and also suggestions on how to approach the business according to new consumer habits. Our show will be both aspirational and inspirational.

The current visitors, what is the rough breakdown percentage-wise by country?

Most of them are from Europe, followed by buyers from countries that the show considers strategic for the sector. In the 2022 edition, visitors came mainly from Italy, Backstage

The planning behind the show goes from year to year

Germany, the United Kingdom, France, Portugal, the United States, Brazil, Mexico, South Korea, Japan and the United Arab Emirates.

What special features can we look forward to in 2023?

The show will have a business focus, but we also want to offer ideas that guide and facilitate the work of both brands and buyers. Our commitment is that all those who participate in the show live a complete experience, capable of providing another vision of the dynamics of bridal fashion. Conferences, training, sustainability... everything will revolve around the main market trends that we will offer through various initiatives, focusing above all on fashion and business.

What do you see as the show’s greatest achievements from its start?

BBFW has achieved global prominence. Today, it is the leading global show in its speciality, the place where the main international brands choose to present their collections for the following season, as well as the most important networking point in the world. Importantly, it also continues to register a very significant increase in the number of international professionals at each edition. The objective today is to consolidate the success achieved so far and continue to grow.

What do you personally find inspires your thinking/ planning?

Undoubtedly young people, brides and the market they move. The bridal ecosystem and consumer habits are changing and BBFW 2023 will reflect this evolution. The

bride is increasingly concerned about issues such as sustainability and is looking for brands that are more committed to the environment. Some brides want to take advantage of the dress after the wedding, others are looking for several dresses because they want to change during the celebration, and today there are more second weddings; in short, we must always be very attentive, paying special attention to the market and focusing on everything that moves in the networks, in the world, in society.

How many exhibitors do you expect this year?

According to forecasts, more than 300. We will be expanding the ecosystem in future editions, the wedding is not only for the bride but also for the guests, so it is necessary to offer party dresses and the market demands that this is reflected in the show. In this sense, there is a lot of room for growth in the future. But our priority is to achieve the top level, quality and excellence of the brands and designers who participate.

What are you looking forward to most in your new role?

The satisfaction of being personally involved in a great project that encompasses fashion and much more: it is also about craftsmanship, art, creativity, sustainability, tradition and innovation, product diversification and all that bridal fashion represents and promotes. It is a fascinating sector and it will be very interesting for me to follow, reflect and drive the evolution of this industry from the perspective of a new professional role.

Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week, 19-23 April. Yolan Cris Katy Corso

Jesus Peiro

Picking up a title – and trophy – in the key awards platform in the UK, where more than 200 judges have influenced the outcome, is no mean feat. Damian Bailey gives us the background

The Wedding Industry Awards WINNER

North West Isabella’s Closet Bridal

The Wedding Industry Awards (TWIA) programme is regarded by many as the awards for the wedding industry in the UK. Established in 2011 and open to any wedding business, TWIA continues to recognise and reward excellence in the business and at the same time help couples find the best suppliers for their wedding.

That TWIA is split into eight geographical regions is a particular virtue – as we are all too aware, tastes and trends vary hugely from county to county so comparisons are more easily made when location guidelines are in place. Entrants in the TWIA programme are encouraged to get wedding couples to vote for them and those views form part of the entry offering – which is a way of ensuring that opinions are based on user experience. Of course no business is going to solicit opinions from anyone other than happy clients, but it is the quality of comment and praise that the judging panel takes into consideration. And talking of judges, there are over 130 in total, with a specific panel of experts taking charge of each category. Judges are eminent and experienced wedding professionals themselves who have either demonstrated excellence over a considerable period of time and/or have won multiple TWIA regional or national awards in the past.

All judging is undertaken online and remotely, ensuring that each judge’s opinion carries equal weight throughout each stage of the judging process. It is the judges who decide who the Regional Winners are, who then go through to the National Final.

Damian Bailey, TWIA founder, told us: “It’s been an incredibly

tough few years for everyone but it was important for us to carry on during lockdown in order to support the industry and help the businesses who entered the awards to recover and grow this year.

TWIA is all about putting your hand up as one of the best in the business; having the courage to go for it. Striving to improve each year for your own personal satisfaction and for the benefit of your clients and customers. We are proud to support the wedding industry and give so many amazing businesses the platform they deserve.”

As ever, the Regional Winners were announced and presented live on stage at a series of eight regional awards events that took place throughout November.

“The Regional Awards Events are integral to TWIA. We love travelling the country to meet the finalists and announce the winners. The mutual love and support at each event is truly incredible and the atmosphere is always electric,” says Damian.

“The Bridal Retailer category is one of the biggest in TWIA. There is no doubt that bridal retailers are among the hardest working wedding suppliers around. Often so much more than just ‘A Wedding Dress Shop’, it is no mean feat to successfully juggle great marketing, perfect customer service and extensive overheads, not to mention tricky demands from designers and customers alike. The panel were looking for attention to detail, exemplary customer service and a true understanding of the difference between what their Brides think they want and what they actually need.”

WINNER

Yorkshire & North East Bijou Bridal Boutique

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

A LETTER FROM AMERICA

Cautiously optimistic – that’s the sentiment from boutiques and brands reporting on the opening of the bridal and prom season in the US in late December/January, as the number of engagements and brides-to-be appears to rival that of this past year, and store traffic and activity point to very robust times ahead.

Cautious in the sense that…

- Boutiques are keeping a wary eye on the projected but slow moving recession and its potential impact on brides’ and prom girls’ budgets;

- Staffing issues continue to plague boutiques, increasing stress levels on existing staff to deliver the level of customer service boutiques may be known for, and that the bride/prom customer expects;

- Brands facing lengthening delivery schedules for specials (primarily in bridal); continued increases in cost of goods, and instability in shipping fees and schedules.

Optimistic in the sense that…

- Brides and prom girls continue to stay focused on their life stage events… with prom, events they were denied as juniors take on much more importance as seniors, and for engaged couples a heightened desire to showcase and celebrate their wedding without outside imposed limitations

- US consumers are continuing their shopping and buying with just minor indications of a pull back and/or

price sensitivity. Brides and teens in particular show this spending power and depth of resources, increasingly willing to make purchases based on their shopping experience and reputation of boutique and brand, and not necessarily on price

- Appointment-based retail in bridal continues to have a positive impact on brides and closing ratios, with a trend emerging of Prom boutiques offering similar exclusive shopping experiences

- Bridal and prom are recession resistant (as I suggested in a previous column) proven by a review of the US Great Recession of 2008-2009 indicating only a minor decrease in the numbers of weddings, and virtually no impact on prom spending

- As categories, bridal and prom are also more impacted by local circumstances and economies than by conditions on the national level…. which may account for why certain stores and regions are more optimistic than others

- Surveys of brides, teens and other shopping demographics reveal that while buying online will continue to increase especially in certain product categories, it is the physical boutique that plays a central role in their shopping preferences

For example, the Knot Worldwide’s survey entitled Wedding Attire Study 2022 revealed that brides purchasing in-store spend significantly more than those buying online, and that 84% of responding brides buy in-store, with local bridal stores accounting for a strong

As the US Bridal and prom seasons kick off, Peter Grimes reports on retailers’ optimism

majority of those purchases

- A snapshot of the US prom market shows that approximately 17 million students enrolled in public and private high schools grades 9-12 in 2022, with nearly half that total enrollment juniors (grade 11) and seniors (grade 12). There are approximately 24,000 public high schools in the US, of which approximately 77% had some type of prom celebration according to a report by syndicated research firm YPulse. For 2023 prom, the percentage of schools participating is expected to increase.

There are industry voices providing positive optimism and projections for 2023 Prom, with observations very pertinent for bridal… but without the ‘cautiously’ qualifier. Mike Denton, president of the International Prom Association, a dynamic cooperative of trend-setting formalwear manufacturers and leading edge prom retailers, is one such positive voice.

“We have an optimistic outlook for Prom 2023,” he said. “Even though we still face many challenges with supply chains/logistics and additional regional public health concerns, shoppers are determined to move past the darkness of social distancing and create bright everlasting memories together.

“From jam-packed concerts and sporting events to overflowing restaurants and malls, people are eager to be together.  Couple that with the increase in teen spending power, I think we have reason to be very optimistic.”

Caron Stover, senior vice president, International Market Center, producer of the World of Prom & Social Occasion at Atlanta Market, agrees, adding that Prom 2022 activity will impact Prom 2023 buying behaviors. “Teens were so thankful to be able to attend prom in 2022,” she said. “High school students were not overly particular in their dress selection, and our retailers reported having to sell off old inventory to keep up with demand.

“In our opinion, the 2023 consumer will be more prepared and will come in with a dream dress in mind, so boutiques and storefronts can expect a more decisive approach and willingness to make the dress selection on the spot.”

So it’s the proverbial good news/not so good news scenario for Prom and Bridal 2023:

Good news: more shoppers and buyers in both categories, with both excited segments anticipating and appreciating the special, out-of-the-ordinary shopping and buying experience offered primarily by a specialty boutique… noteworthy experiences that have been at the heart of a bridal boutique’s brand pre-Covid, and experiences that are significantly more so post-Covid. But: closing ratios are dropping and frustration is rising for some boutiques as they strive to satisfy the increasing demands of a customer undergoing complicated “higher-than normal” levels of stress while they struggle with their own stressful staffing and personnel issues.

“Surveys reveal that while buying online will continue to increase, especially in certain product categories, it is the physical boutique that plays a central role in shopping preferences”

In conversation

Many retailers are choosing to get their message over via podcasts

PODCASTS WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Nikita Thorne, Head of Strategy at Guides for Brides and host of Guides for Brides - The Wedding Podcast, explains the value of guesting on a podcast to reach your target audience with your own message. Bridalwear retailers are already discovering the benefits

Podcasting has grown significantly over the past few years and it is becoming an important marketing opportunity for businesses. I am the host of Guides for Brides - The Wedding Podcast. Active since January 2021, we are now entering our fourth season with a growing audience of couples. We are one of the top 10% most shared podcasts globally*, reaching 50 countries, and our third season was one of the top 10% most viewed for video podcasts on Spotify.

The Wedding Podcast is designed to help couples to plan their wedding with practical planning tips, advice and ideas. We invite expert guests onto the podcast to discuss all things wedding planning from the logistics of the day, to unique ideas and exclusive advice.

If you are considering being a guest on a podcast as a potential marketing avenue, then it is important to find the right show to feature on. Here’s how you can go about doing that: *Stats from Spotify’s 2022 Podcaster Wrapped.

There are over 3 million podcasts out there so finding the right one to feature on can sometimes be tricky. While that’s quite a daunting number, remember that every podcast has a niche and there’ll likely be one for your business. This is all down to research. You’ll want to find a podcast that suits your brand and help you achieve your goals,

whether that is brand promotion or positioning.

What you want to find is a podcast that fits your brand and the audience you are wanting to target. Not every podcast is going to have millions of followers and listeners, but one that has both casual and regular listeners wanting to learn more about a specific topic will likely increase the potential for a conversion.

Here are a few things you’ll want to do to find the right podcast (and listeners):

Put yourself in the shoes of your target market

A great way to actively find a podcast is to search for the key terms that you want your business to appear for on a podcast platform such as Spotify, Amazon Music or Apple Podcasts.

Consider how your audience would find the podcast. What would they search for? Type in these terms and browse the shows and episodes that appear.

When you select a few shows you feel may be appropriate, check the following information:

• How often do episodes get published and are they still actively creating content?

• Does the show have a website or somewhere it links to so that you can get in touch easily?

⚫• ⚫How many episodes have they recorded?

• Does it look like they record in a studio, via Zoom, etc? Does that suit

you logistically?

Use these questions to create a shortlist of shows you’d like to target for guest features.

Listen to the content and consider how you can add value

Now you have identified the ideal shows for you, look for the episodes that they have done and vitally, listen to them. As a host, I am much more likely to select a guest speaker who has actively listened to the podcast and knows how they can provide my audience with value.

It’s also important to know what topics have already featured and this can only be achieved by listening. If you think the topic that’s your first choice may already have been covered, fear not. You may be able to find an alternative angle or a gap in content that hasn’t been focused on yet. Again, as a host, if you can immediately identify that gap, then you will have a better chance of being invited on as a guest.

Top tip: The more you can say on a topic, the better. It is much easier for the recordings to be cut down rather than having to create additional content after the recording.

Consider the audience

It sounds obvious, but knowing the audience you want to reach should be your number one consideration when investigating podcasts to feature on. Some podcasts are designed to have a wide audience

range, so while the topic is wedding related, the audience don’t need to be getting married to tune in and enjoy the discussions. Some have a B2B focus, so are perfect to target if you are wanting to make the move into consultancy.

At Guides for Brides, we target our podcast towards couples who are at any stage of the wedding planning

process. This allows for topic flexibility as well as ensuring we have a consistent niche.

It also allows our audience to be a mixture of casual listeners who will dive into one or two episodes based on finding it through a specific search, and loyal followers who listen to most episodes and consider the show to be a core part of their wedding planning.

Our audience wants light educational content that will give them the advice or tips they are looking for, but in a relaxed and fun way.

The approach

The angle of the podcast and its context are vitally important to consider. Your appearance on a podcast can affect the way you are wanting to position your brand to the audience. Consider the way you wish to be positioned as a business owner and ask yourself whether the podcast you are considering being a guest on will support that goal.

There are lots of formats available. I have listened to wedding podcasts that focus mainly on an individual couple’s journey, with guests brought in to bring funny and sometimes risqué stories.

There are also wedding business podcasts designed to support business owners. You want the podcast you choose to be both relevant to your speciality as a business and for the style to fit your brand’s persona. There are plenty of wedding podcasts out there, but the discussions are approached in various different ways.

Most episodes on Guides for

Brides - The Wedding Podcast are informative interviews with industry experts to help couples who want practical planning advice and ideas. The guests are encouraged to mix their informative answers with anecdotes of things that happened to them. This could be a funny scenario that they personally experienced or real problems they have solved so that those listening can avoid doing the same thing or know how to approach the situation if it arose for them. Our guests often want to be seen as experts within their field, and our show supports that goal due to the format and the topics of discussion. The episodes are designed to be as evergreen as possible, so that we minimise the need to repeat content and there is always something relevant to new and existing audience members.

Being a guest on a podcast will be an expression of your brand’s personality (it could be your personal brand or a representation of your overall business) and market to a targeted audience. Ask yourself whether the angle of the show you are interested in does this before you contact them.

While it is critical to do your research and ensure the podcast you feature on is relevant to you and your audience, the most important thing to remember is to have fun with it and be open-minded. You may not find the perfect fit, but you don’t only have to be a guest once! As long as you feel the podcast will be a good representation of your brand

help you achieve your marketing goals, then go for it!

and

“ We target our podcast towards couples who are at any stage of the wedding planning process. This allows for topic flexibility as well as ensuring we have a consistent niche.”

Proposed changes to marriage law

During 2022, the Law Commission of England and Wales outlined recommendations to reform wedding laws. Founder of Guides For Brides, Alison Hargreaves, explains what this could mean to your business

What is being mooted is a fairer system to give couples more choice over where and how their wedding takes place.

It is predicted that, if these changes become law as expected, it will trigger the biggest shift in wedding trends that we have seen in our lifetime, opening up opportunities for ambitious and innovative business owners.

The plans under discussion would involve licensing the person carrying out the ceremony, rather than the building where the wedding takes place. This would result in the opening up of a wide range of locations for couples to consider including gardens, beaches, forests, parks and boats.

The changes would also allow for more personalised content during the ceremony, such as the vows, rituals and songs chosen.

When will the changes take effect?

The proposals were published in July 2022 and the government was due to

give their initial reaction in January 2023, followed by a formal response in July 2023. After that, it still requires an act of law to be passed so it’s not a quick process. However, many couples are aware of the proposed changes so it’s sensible for businesses to start to prepare now.

Wedding venues will feel the greatest impact as couples will no longer be limited to getting married in an approved location, register office or Church; venues will need to be able to offer couples an experience they can’t get elsewhere in order to remain attractive.

It’s already led to a shift in the industry; Xenia Venues is buying wedding venues that have the potential to be exceptional guestcentric exclusive-use venues, then investing in them to create the ultimate experience for the couple and their guests.

According to Managing Director of Xenia Venues, James Matthews: “The likely change in law presents a significant shift for couples. They will have more choice than at any time in modern history, and many will be

keen to experiment and stand out.

For venues to continue being successful, they must invest in the business holistically. They need to differentiate and understand what unique value they can offer their couples. In oversimplified terms, venues will need to become authentic, stand-out destinations of choice focusing on the long-term, or they will face constantly competing on price to attract couples in an increasingly short-term way.”

Wedding venues may need to make a strategic decision; do they switch down a gear and accept increased competition, or switch up a gear and invest?

Weddings to become more consumer led

With increased choice comes increased consumer power. There would still be a requirement for weddings to be seemly and dignified, but with increased choice, couples won’t be constrained by restrictions imposed by a particular venue or registrar.

The Law Commission’s proposed

changes aim to allow for couples to be able to express themselves more freely, and with most couples already keen to create a unique experience for their guests, it opens the way for wedding suppliers to become even more innovative and creative in the services and products they offer.

Trends in bridalwear

We are expecting an increased demand for bridalwear more usually

linked to destination weddings and registry office ceremonies, with brides looking for chic and informal styles for weddings at home, on beaches and in parks.

Conversely, as the settings for some weddings become more relaxed, we may see couples choosing a much more formal style in order to make their own statement.

The full ‘white wedding dress’ look will remain popular for weddings in

existing wedding venues, and Asian wedding planner LaToya Patel, of SW Events predicts that many South Asian brides will still want to have a western style wedding day, with a white dress, even if the requirement for a separate civil ceremony changes.

Marketing activity to increase

As the more serious wedding venues switch up a gear, and innovative suppliers jostle to get their new products and services in front of consumers, we can expect to see more proactive and competitive marketing strategies being used.

Our online marketing platform guidesforbrides.co.uk reports an increased demand from clients for publishing styled shoots designed to show couples their options in an easy-to-digest visual format.

This has been particularly important for venues with outdoor ceremony spaces, meaning that bridal boutiques should find it easy to find local venues happy to host an outdoor photoshoot this spring.

An increased number of weddings? Although the number of weddings taking place in the UK has fallen steadily in recent years, we could now see a reversal in that downward trend with couples finally able to marry in a place that is meaningful to them, with a ceremony reflecting their own wishes and beliefs.

So, if the Law Commission reforms will lead to more weddings, more choice for couples and more opportunities for ambitious and creative wedding businesses to grow, we look forward to the government’s reaction to the proposals.

You can keep up to date on the proposed reforms to weddings on the Law Commission website. www.lawcom.gov.uk/centuries-oldweddings-laws-to-be-overhauledunder-new-reforms/

A TRUE DESIGN FORCE

Here’s a woman who understands what brides want... and delivers it

ELBETH GILLIS IN CONVERSATION WITH

She’s a hot name in her home country, South Africa, and an internationally-recognised design force that sets her own boundaries. We got talking...

WT First thing you designed – how old were you and what was it ?

EG I was probably about five or six – I started sewing early. It would have been a dress for one of my dolls.

WT Did you always want to be in fashion – when did bridal happen into your life?

EG After I completed my degree in fashion design at Cape Town University of Technology, I worked as a childrenswear designer for a big factory supplying the retailers. During that time I realised that I loved bridal and the more bespoke part of the fashion world. I launched my bridal business is 1997.

WT Do you come from a design-driven or artistic family background?

EG Yes, everyone in my family is creative and loves crafting and creating just about anything. My mother and aunts are all wonderful seamstresses and I learned a lot from them as a child.

WT How many collections do you produce a year?

EG It depends, but usually two or three.

WT Which countries do you sell in? And what are the most popular sizes?

EG For sample gowns usually a UK 12, for the Curve Collection a UK 22. Brides are all sizes, but around a 10 to 14 in most cases.

WT Where do you source your fabrics?

EG We really source from all over – India, Taiwan, China, the UK, Spain and France.

WT What silhouettes are your favourites generally, and your choice for the 2023 season?

EG I love clean, structural gowns, but lace is also a favourite. My choice would be a simple but dramatic ballgown.

WT How many pieces do you have in each collection, and are they all new or do you keep best sellers going

EG Each collection has at least eight new gowns, and yes, we do keep best-sellers.

WT Tell us about your latest collection and its special style features and embellishments.

EG Our latest collection is called Botanical and is inspired by my love of gardening and all things floral. There are some beautiful 3-D floral and leaf embellishments. Shimmering beadwork is also a big part of the Botanical personality.

WT Which are the best markets for you?

EG The UK and South Africa.

WT Do you grant your retailers exclusivity, do you stipulate minimum orders?

EG Yes, we do grant exclusivity and require a minimum of six dresses, but it can be over all our collections.

WT What is the RRP in the UK?

EG From £1,400 to £4,000.

WT How do you promote your label to the trade, and also to consumers?

EG We participate in shows, send newsletters and focus heavily on social media for consumers.

WT Which trade events will you be showing at in 2023?

EG European Bridal Week in Essen or possibly   Barcelona or One Fine Day New York.

WT Who would be your dream to dress of past or present personalites?

EG  Grace Kelly.

Elbeth Gillis

T: +27 21 423 2220

E: info@elbethgillis.com www.elbethgillis.com

HEAD FOR CASABLANCA

An all-American brand, born and raised in California, Casablanca has grown to be an international name with a portfolio packed with high-fashion winners

There are four labels in the highly successful Casablanca Bridal stable and each has a distinct personality that appeals to a particular type of bride. Knowing your audience and their tastes is a real bonus, and one that makes this house a real winner. “Our privatelyowned factory allows us to ensure all phases of production from start to finish are to our exact standards. Every Casablanca gown is made to order, one at a time,” says the company’s Michelle Kim.

“We take great pride in the fact that we do not mass-produce our bridal gowns. Each gown is unique from the hand-beaded designs and exquisite laces, to the fit and customization for every bride’s specific needs.”

Of the four in the award-winning stable, Le Blanc (RRP £680–£1,100) is a real point-scorer, a thoroughlymodern statement-maker where the cut is sleek and the style story is free of adornment.

The eponymous Casablanca Bridal (RRP £1,284–£3,525) is the classic one of the foursome, with quality, design originality and attention to detail the key priorities. Fashion-forward brides fall in love with Beloved,

(RRP £1,197–£2,274) a range known for its hand-crafted gowns that use the finest quality fabrics and laces, shimmering Swarovski crystals and glorious hand-sewn embellishments that add another dimension of detail. And then there is Amare Couture, a magnificent collection with a special handwriting that spells luxury and exclusivity.

There are two collections per label per year, with dazzling newcomers under the spotlight, as well as the proven best-sellers that every retailer wants, knowing they are sure-fire winners that will bring in the business.

The new season’s presentations start in Paris, 12-13 March, then move to London Bridal Week, 19-21 March at London’s Excel where the entire 2024 collection will be showcased, and European Bridal Week in Essen, 1-3 April, that for the first time incorporates Interbride, making it northern Europe’s biggest bridal expo with 500+ exhibitors.

In the USA, Casablanca Bridals has a permanent showroom at the Atlanta Mart and will be exhibiting at the VOW show, the National Bridal Market Chicago in March and August, and at regional pop-ups in Dallas, Salt Lake City and New Jersey.

So what can retailers expect in the months ahead? “Our key fabrics for the 2024 collection include stretch mikado, neoprene, shimmer tulle, glitter tulle, floral overlace, soft tulle, crepe organza, Chantilly lace, stretch georgette, stretch crepe, French stretch lace, Italian duchess silk and fringe. Embellishments include 3D and lace appliqués, beading, sequins, crystals, pearls and eyelash trim,” says Michelle.

With a network of 800 prestigious retailers across the globe, 150 in the UK alone, Casablanca is always soliciting opinion in order to deliver what their stockists want. “Right now,” says Michelle, “they are asking for detachable accessories,

including sleeves, capes, straps, gloves, skirts and Watteau trains so that a bride can truly have two looks in one. They also love that we offer a matching veil in every length for every dress in our collection. Also in demand are clean, modern designs, driving exponential growth for our new Le Blanc collection. Soft A-line styles continue to be super popular, providing brides with a romantic look for their big day.”

And those two, have-to-be-asked questions… does the company feel we are over the challenging times for recent years? “Casablanca Bridal is excited to see its global retailers successfully rebounding and growing post-pandemic due to

a record-breaking number of brides in 2022 and projected for 2023,” says Michelle. “However, with an increase in COVID cases in China, some manufacturers could continue to see sporadic disruptions to the supply chain in 2023. “We are lucky. Owning our factory provides us with greater control and an advantageous response to any unforeseen supply chain issues.”

And the aftermath of Brexit? Again, Michelle is happy to report that it has not had a negative impact on sales in the UK. “We are offering a higher level of delivery duty-paid service to our retailers to eliminate some of the challenges they face due to Brexit,” she reports.

BRIDESPEAK

“So here am I, an outgoing, confident career girl who always reckoned I’d go for a drop-dead gorgeous filmstar number when it came to my wedding dress. Well, I am right about the outgoing and confident bit, but once I started looking online at the dresses from the different designers I’d come across, I realised what I really wanted was a beautiful, classical dress with a high neck, long sleeves and, I suppose, rather Catherine, Princess of Wales, who is my style icon. What has delighted me is finding a store which carried a really good number of gowns that fitted the description, and a sales consultant who instantly understood what I wanted.”

Peter Grimes Publisher of American trade magazine VOWS

Kailani

“Can’t afford two dresses but now that I’ve been investigating the possibility of add-ons, that’s put a whole different opportunity in place. Have decided, though not started looking yet, that I want a simple, short, sheath-like dress, plus a big overskirt and detachable sleeves. I’m going to end up with three looks and that is so exciting. I am hoping we can find the same for my three bridesmaids, so we can be short and long together.”

Toni

“I have only just got engaged and the wedding will be in Spring 2024, which seems like an eternity from now. I am the first of my group of friends to be tying the knot (and yes, I am saying all the predictable things right now!!!). We have talked about a small wedding so I think – but I am not sure yet – that I want a short and very plain dress for that and, for a big party a month or so later, a really party dress in a great colour, that I will be able to wear many times over.”

Emily

“Me? I am a jeans and bomber jacket girl when not at work, so for my wedding it has to be tight white trousers, a lacey top and a leather or leather-look white jacket with lots of zippers. I’ll find white boots or trainers to complete the look and add a few glittery bits here and there. It might not be everyone’s taste, but it is mine.”

Barbara

Now what about the dress? With a new year ahead, new stock in stores and new social media searches starting, we asked brides to define their dream dress

“With all the pressures of work and this recession, I have to be especially budget-conscious right now –though I always have been – so I have looked around, and especially online, governed by price. And it has not been a terrible task. Not at all. Once I stated what my budget is, I was really surprised at how much is available, and the very good advice offered by the designers, like the choice of fabric, for starters. I am looking for an A-line dress with a strapless top and a detachable sleeves and I feel very positive I will find what I want at a price I can afford.” Janine

“I thought I knew exactly what I wanted, having looked over and over again at social media sites and read what the various designers and influencers had to say. So then I went to a local bridal boutique that had won an award and others were talking about, and within less than half an hour the lady there had me trying on completely different styles – nothing like what I have envisaged. And she was right, every time. I couldn’t believe how far away they were from the dresses I had loved online. I think I have decided now on a lace curvy dress with see-through panels and lace motif things on the sleeves. I couldn’t be happier.”

Sophia

Karin

“There’s nothing to discuss. I want that Cinderella ballgown, and I will not settle for anything less. I have found a shop where the boss is a seamstress and she has been drawing pictures of what can be done. Just wait till my prince charming sees me on our big day.”

29 ATELIER A BRAND WITH A MESSAGE

“My love of fashion started from a young age,” confesses Liz. “I read Vogue obsessively and was fascinated by Parisian couture. My childhood dream was that I would become a fashion designer. My father was an entrepreneur and he inspired in me an ambitious mindset and work ethic. My mother, nanny and aunties were always making their own clothes, and trips with them to our local department store to find patterns and fabrics were a source of fascination, as was watching them sew and create. I was always drawing my own designs and held the belief that one day I would be able to create my own collection. I suppose there was never any other thought in my mind; I always knew exactly what I wanted to do.”

Liz’s passion for bespoke fashion metamorphosed into a love of bridalwear. ”It was almost a logical progression,” she says. “Bridal opened the door for me... the one chance every woman has to wear a unique couture inspired gown is on her wedding day.”

She launched her own boutique and built the business up with dedication but at the same time harboured a growing concern that

British craft and skill providers were in decline. “Many of my seamstresses were of an older generation,” she explains. “There was no one coming through to replace them and increasingly brands were opting to produced overseas. That’s when I knew I wanted to be part of making a change and turning this tide.

“In 2011, I embarked on a creative journey, to study a BA in Fashion Atelier, a prestigious degree course with a methodology parallel to the French couture houses, and the only degree of its kind in the United Kingdom. At the University for the Creative Arts, I honed my skills in design and creative processing and cemented my passion for slow, sustainable artisan craft.”

Liz’s business, 29 Atelier, was established in 2016. “We are an independent business. Step-by-step we have built the infrastructure for the business and developed and refined our collection and our brand.”

What’s the message? “29 Atelier is about luxury, British craftsmanship, clever and flattering cuts, stunning fabrics and our ethical and sustainable ethos,” she enthuses.

“Movement and lightness are really important to me. I have learnt how

Elizabeth Ruddick, the owner and design force behind the 29 Atelier label, talked to us about the passion for couture fashion that capture her imagination as a child and took her to bridal as an adult

“29 Atelier is about luxury, British craftsmanship, clever and flattering cuts, stunning fabrics and our ethical and sustainable ethos”

garments need to fit and flatter real women. I have used this experience to create design and cuts for all sizes and not having to rely on restrictive bodices to achieve this. Brides love the way our dresses look and feel, which is really important and makes our conversion really high.

Our dresses feel fantastic to wear. I always say that a 29 Atelier dress has a classic feel but with a twist, which is beautiful and interesting. I love the effortless look of the bias silhouette and the power of proportions created by a high waist.”

There are 30 dresses in the current Archive collection plus separates. Liz

favours natural fabrics where possible, and her colour of choice is what she describes as ‘antique white’, a beautiful tone nestled between white and ivory.

And aware of that today’s brides wish for personalisation and individuality, she offers simple tweaks through to a full made-tomeasure bespoke service.

“Beautiful wedding dresses with an eco-conscious soul, that’s how I would describe my ethos. When I created my label I wanted to bring my love of couture to the bridal equation. Underpinning our beautiful collections is the work

that goes into them – the traditional techniques that we use from French seams to delicate pin hems and hand appliqués. Brides love the way our dresses look and feel which is really important and makes our conversion really high.

“As we expand, we can have a positive impact on more and more people, inspiring them into the industry. And making our gowns locally means we are reducing our impact on the environment, while also developing our fabric range to be even more eco-conscious. These are all key things that appeal to our brides.”

“Underpinning our beautiful collections is the work that goes into them – the traditional techniques that we use, from French seams to delicate pin hems and hand appliqués”

Extras? No. Essentials, More Likely

I’ve tried that being chic and having one pair of earrings, necklace and one bracelet and a couple of pairs of shoes, but let’s be honest, where’s the fun in that? It never seems like big spending (although my bank account may disagree) when you just buy a few bits. Personally, I’ve got loads of piercings on my ears, more opportunity to sparkle, and we have eight fingers all waiting for rings!

I remember going to dinner once with a lovely couple and I made the mistake of saying “I love your earrings”, which was true. Meeting again they gifted me a pair of very similar earrings; I looked in dismay at the posts – they were huge. I tried to avoid putting them on, explaining that I didn’t have a mirror to see. As fast as lighting I was presented with a compact and before I knew it I was shoving what felt like a log through my earlobe. By the time we finished eating, my ears were throbbing. En route home I extracted them very slowly but my lobes were in pain for days afterwards... However, saying “I love earrings” has never resulted in diamonds from De Beers, sadly.

But on to brides now…. How wonderful to constantly evolve on the wedding day, starting with a fully covered up look and by the end of the day paring it down to a simple dress and a great big pair of earrings. But

on the other hand, who doesn’t want to sparkle the whole time on their big day? If ever there was an opportunity to go accessory mad for me, it’s at a wedding

Key trends

The Statement Earring, whether a pair or mis-matched, was in evidence on the catwalks, along with short veils as seen at Viktor & Rolf.

Big hairbands, bows, cute bags and a pair of heels – all recalling the 1950s, early 60s, a bit of Brigitte Bardot, that St. Tropez vibe with a little eyeliner and red lips, hair tied back. These are what will be gracing our social channels for the next year or two.

Classic brides will always love the veil, pearls and a little pendant, but why not suggest they up the game by wearing a fascinator or even show their fashion credentials by choosing a Gucci hair clip. As we always used to

Accessories, accessories, accessories. Can we ever have enough of them? Peta Hunt thinks not

FLORA

JESUS PEIRO

HERMIONE DE PAULA

BOTIAS

THE BOBBY PIN

MARIAELENA

DAHLIA-COMBS

MEGAN THERESE

ERIN RHYNE

HOUSEOF HERSEE

SAINT BETH SAINT BETH

Heels of Dreams

say “it’s your day, your way “.

There are still plenty of hats being worn by brides who don’t do traditional – the non-traditional fascinator, a cheeky little hat, or an oversized Fedora work for me, too, by the way. For the festival lover (former Boho bride), flowers – whether on headbands, singly or stacked Frida Kahlo style – have become an easy option, along with butterflies and long wafty veils.

Let’s face it, nothing says bride more than a veil, but there’s no need to look like an extra from Ghostbusters! A veil is the key part of a wedding outfit for me, a beautiful accessory to compliment or accentuate the wedding dress.

For others, wearing a veil is a tradition in their families, cultures, or religions. It’s just so romantic and guaranteed to get your grandma’s lace hanky out to dab a tear away, or even the cynical girls from the office reaching for their tissues.

For today’s bride, longer veils make for a dramatic entrance and are stunningly elegant, while shorter veils are fresh and fun.

This season we are seeing more and more lace trimmed veils, which are very flattering for pictures and can become future heirlooms when hand embroidered with the bride’s name. Whatever style of wedding – whether church or civil – the veil makes a clear statement. At the same time, however non-traditional a fascinator, a cheeky little hat, or an oversized Fedora, they work for me, too.

Covering up dresses may seem a silly suggestion, but I love a good cloak to squish around in. I’m particularly in love with the Jesus Peiro fringed one and, while we’re talking about fringing, how about a pair of knee-high fringed boots? Perfect, if you have a mini dress.

I don’t think we should be afraid of suggesting accessories, although some of the pieces I’ve selected cost more than some dresses. As we know, all brides have a budget which they try to stick to, but there are those who are more spreadsheet savvy than

others.

Some brides are ready to spend £3K on a dress and £90 on a pair of shoes, and there are others, who think the other way around. If I appear in my selection to be a little at the top-heavy end, I have to say that I am constantly amazed by the number of people who spend £1,800 on a pair of crystal Jimmy Choo’s – and they’re not even in fashion or bankers. I don’t know if it’s a “Cinderella, you shall go to the ball” syndrome, or whether they just love a Choo!

So, as this piece may head towards inspirational glass-ceiling price-level, remember that since Manolo Blahnik produced those first shoes – you know, the satin pump with a diamante clip, worn by Sarah Jessica Parker –they have become THE classic bridal footwear. There is no reason why, of course, a bride can’t wear trainers or flats.

I loved the trend for gloves this year. They can transform a dress from understated to red-carpet worthy. I think that’s what accessories are all about – transformation, personality, style and versatility on the big day.

Many brides are keeping it simple dress-wise. I am a huge fan of sleeves but perhaps not everyone wants to show off their tattoos in church, so shrugs, capes and gloves are not only welcome warming additions in winter, but also brilliant in disguising the odd tat or two until a glass of sherry has been had by that more straight-laced relative.

A tailored jacket works beautifully over a slip dress, perfect for city weddings, and can be worn again, along with a wedding biker jacket hand painted with “Wifey for Lifey” message. Kelsey Rose has a great lace one to pep up any dress. Capes and shrugs can up the style stakes, too!

Heads up

Did you know that The Royal Collection shop has a selection of royal-inspired tiaras that range from £95 for the Buckingham Palace crystal tiara up to £150? Who knew?

ALEXIS ISABEL

JIMMYCHOO

CONVERSE

EMMY LONDON FREYA

ORCHID CAPE

MIMOSSABRIDAL

MARIAELENA

SAINT BETH

Veils/Gloves

Coco Chanel

“

Lace is one of the most wonderful imitations of nature. But pearls are perfect for every occasion.”

“If I chose diamonds, it is because they represent, with their density, the highest value for the smallest volume.”

“Accessories are what makes or marks a woman.”

Mae West

“I never worry about diets. The only carrots that interest me are the number of carats in a diamond.”

Grace Kelly

“The pearl is the queen of gems and the gem of Queens.”

Anna Dello Russo

“Accessories are like vitamins to fashion”

Iris Apfel

”More is more and less is a bore”

“Jewellery is the most transformative thing you can wear.”

Giorgio Armani

“Accessories are important and becoming more and more important every day. They can completely change the look of an outfit, and women like the idea of having a wardrobe that’s versatile. For instance, a strong piece of jewellery can make a simple outfit look elegant.”

I also love the trend of doubling and even tripling up bridal tiaras and headbands, giving the bride to be complete flexibility to stamp her personality on the finished effect.

I’ve been seeing hair pins scattered more on a chignon, used as decoration rather than for practical reasons and layering up on slides, too. With a half-up-half-down hairstyles, pins work perfectly if you feel a tiara, or a comb, is too heavy or restricting. Statement hairbands are here to

stay and they seem to be getting bigger. Not only can they be worn with a veil for the formalities, but solo, when it is time to party.

So if the B2B wants to wear a large crown and a 20-foot train, bringing to the forefront her IP (that’s Inner Princess), let’s show her how to shine. Trends come and go so I guess our job is to steer a bride towards her big day. And if she wants to walk down the aisle sparkling like a disco ball, who’s to say that’s not to be applauded.

MALINA

CORNELIA JAMES FRILL

HERMIONE DE PAULA

HALFPENNY LONDON CHRISTOPHER KANE

Who said what about accessories...

A NEW CHAP TER

Not so long ago, wedding fashion was all about the bride. Today, their partners get to go all out with the latest and often over-the-top looks that demand just as much attention

Think cut and colour. Think fabrics and finishes. Think anything but the tailored three-piece suit of yesteryear. Waistcoats may be double-breasted and with their own lapels. Jackets must be lean, or at least on the straight and narrow, but can be cropped short or cut away to show off layers of details beneath. And when it comes to the preferred materials, it’s rather a case of anything goes, from plains to patterned, smooths to textures, matte finishes to subtle sheen. Accessories are important; belts, buckles and braces, ties that go from the positively skinny to the flared and fancy, and jewelled buttons.

Cleofe Finati by Italian master Archetipo takes design to the extreme, never hesitating to go that one stop further to make an impression. And what an impression it is! Clashes of colour, splashes of print, fabrics shot with shine, astonishing combinations of cut. There are luxurious pure silks,

tighter-than-tight trousers, formal shirts that would look just as well with ripped denims. Bright pinks, soft greens, a brilliant turquoise. And that’s just the start of the palette.

Torre is a made-in-Portugal brand that has a big following across Europe and in the UK. In the fourlabel portfolio – Roberto Vicentti, Torre Uomo, Thomas Pina and Javier Arnaiz – there is much to offer, and here again, detail is what makes the difference. Across the ranges there are brocades and checks, and blue remains the king-pin shade, with black, beige, Bordeaux and grey playing an important role. Patterned cut-away waistcoats are important for the new season.

Wilvorst from Germany is another multi-brand stable which includes relaxed suitings – perfect for destination weddings – along with the fotmals. There’s a good choice of classic colours and quality fabrics as well as the newly-introduced lighter shades. The Green Wedding

BLUE MOOD

Opposite page: Benetti goes pale. This page above: Cleofe Finati, dark and detailed

WILVORST

Elegant rather than outrageous, with neat, uncluttered cuts

label is proving to be popular with its message of sustainability.

Benetti is an Irish label run in the UK by Graham Phebey of the Kent Wedding Centre, and noted as being one of Ireland’s fastest-growing businesses over the past five years. Recent sponsorships in Gallic Football, the Republic of Ireland Soccer team, and the Irish Golf Open, alongside the signing of the ex-British Lion Rohan O’Gara as a brand ambassador has enabled the company to gain great exposure.

Currently in excess of 20 styles of suit are held in stock along with shirts and shoes in numerous colours, with next day service from the UK stock, and a weekly delivery from Ireland.

Blues and greys, and chic cuts that are a contemporary twist of the classical, are the story.

TORRE Soft colours add a touch of informality

A BEAUTIFUL BUNCH OF

LILLYs

In its plush Denmark atelier, Lilly produces five bridal ranges that have their own looks, and accordingly their own audiences, which means the company can cater for all tastes, all occasions and all budgets, a vital in today’s market.

LILLY itself is central to the portfolio, a range of signature classic gowns in beautiful fabrics, each given a special personality with unique detailing and embellishment.

PASSIONS by LILLY is the contemporary sister, with fashionforward silhouettes and a thoroughly modern design attitude.

Then there is Prewhite by LILLY for the bride who wants chic lines with an air of luxury, and DIAMONDS by LILLY, the first choice for brides planning a laid-back destination wedding or less tradition nuptials closer to home who wants a shorter-length, super-stylish gown for her big day.

And right up there is Mix & Match by LILLY, which is exactly as the name suggests – young, fun, fashiondriven separates that let the wearer play it her way. Whether she wants a cowboy, city, futuristic or gender-fluid look, the choice is hers.

Lilly’s designer, Dorthe Smith, draws much of her inspiration from the fabrics she plans to use. She sits in a wild sea of fabric samples, embellishments, sleeve parts,

skirts and corsets, and a wondrous collection of gowns emerges as the result of her creative thinking and bold experimentation.

For 2024, there are 75 new dresses under the Lilly label, in Dorthe’s chosen fabrics – heavy soft satin, georgette and tulle with 3D laces, embroideries and hints of shimmer. Mock and square necklines, amazing

sleeve treatments are key for the new season.

When you are planning your next round of buying, do look at Let’s Party by LILLY, a collection of dress-upand-go frocks that also includes bridesmaids’ favourites, the versatile wrap dress. And don’t forget for those smaller customers, there are flowergirl sweeties and the complete communion story of dresses and accessories.

See the 2024 collection at European Bridal Week, 1-3 April at Messe Essen, and at Harrogate Bridal Week, 10-12 September. Visit www.lilly.eu

The Danish house Lilly prides itself in covering many options, offering a wardrobe of wedding collections as well as dream dresses for little girls

Making It

DRESSED UP

Personality of the label Plus size specialist.

Special features Lots of clever pleating and draping to enhance the fuller figure.

Key fabrics for the new season Stretch crepe and printed chiffon.

Key colours/prints Chiffon leaf print, navy/ivory and jazz pink/navy.

Size range 16–32

Number of pieces in collection 30

RRP range £350–£599

Accessories on offer Hats to match by Niche Collection.

Number of retailers in the UK 45

T: +44(0) 20 8502 2257

E: style@veromia.co.uk

W: www.veromia.co.uk

JOHN CHARLES

Personality of the label Refined-styling, affordable luxury.

Special features Internal construction for a comfortable and flattering fit; hand-beaded embellishments; exclusive fabrics.

Key fabrics for the new season Bold jacquards, luxurious silk chiffons, soft crepes and our signature sparkle fabric.

Key colours/prints Colour blocking with floral prints in hot pinks or navy/lime; pastels in jacquards and crepes.

Size range 6-22

Number of pieces in collection 60

RRP range £53–£999

Accessories on offer  Niche Collection Milliners and Hostie Hats offer their hats in a colour palette to match the collection.

Number of retailers in the UK 70

T: +44(0) 20 8888 8833

E: info@studioelllis.co.uk

W: www.johncharles.co.uk

More weddings, more parties, and more occasions to dress those all-important women who put style as a top priority. Here are just a few of the collections you should be considering...

VEROMIA OCCASIONS

Personality of the label Young and vibrant guestwear.

Special features Shapes and sizes to suit all Key fabrics for the new season Bold prints, layered chiffons, and soft jacquards..

Key colours/prints Golds, dusty pink, soft blues through to bold cobalt and fuchsia.

Size range 8-20

Number of pieces in collection 30

RRP range £250–£399

Accessories on offer Dyed to match hats from Niche Collection.

Number of retailers in the UK 70+

T: +44(0) 20 8502 2257

E: style@veromia.co.uk

W: www.veromia.co.uk

IRRESISTIBLE

Personality of the label Young and vibrant guestwear.

Special features Special occasion dresses with a twist, quirky designs.

Key fabrics for the new season Stretch taffeta, jacquards, printed chiffons.

Key colours/prints Soft pastels to bold prints.

Size range 8-20

Number of pieces in collection 30 RRP range £399–£750

Accessories on offer Hats to match by Jaybee Hats.

Number of retailers in the UK 50

T: +44(0) 20 8502 2257

E: style@veromia.co.uk

W: www.veromia.co.uk

LORÉ

Personality of the label Sleek and sophisticated dressing.

Special features Intricate lace.

Key fabrics for the new season Satin, lace and crepe.

Key colours/prints Soft tones

Size range 14-24

Number of pieces in collection 150

RRP range £49–£199

Accessories on offer n/a

Number of retailers in the UK 85

T: +44(0) 20 8998 0098

E: sales@lore-group.com  www.lorefashions.com

VENI INFANTINO

Personality of the label Confidently blending timeless and modern design to create innovative luxury occasionwear.

Special features Floral and jacquard jackets, giving two beautiful looks in one. Off-the-shoulder cuts.

Key fabrics for the new season Crepe and chiffons

Key colours/prints The timeless classics, plus bold floral prints featuring cerise, royal, lilac and cream prints.

Size range 6-24

Number of pieces in collection 100+ RRP range £500–£900

Accessories on offer All hats available via Snoxells British Millinery.

Number of retailers in the UK 150

T: +44(0) 1636 593483

E: enquiries@ronaldjoyce.com www.veni-infantino.com

FINE ENGLISH TULLE

THE RBA

Why being part of the RBA community brings value and support to your business. Laura Dixon tells all

LOOKING AHEAD TO 2023 WITH

The RBA committee know how important it is to bring our members value. Therefore, as an association we need to constantly bring new ways to enhance the membership offer. The RBA strives to raise industry standards across the UK and this is always at the top of the agenda at any committee meeting.

The association is in place to bring value to our members, all of whom are already leading the way in the industry, and giving their brides that sought-after ‘experience’ and fantastic service, from the moment they book in, right up to sharing their wonderful memories after the big day. RBA shops really care, their passion and drive are what make them stand out.

So, what do we have in store for 2023? Well, where do we start… we are very excited to have partnered up with the superb LVL London Consultancy. Louise and her team offer luxury sales training workshops and have delivered these to many leading luxury retailers including Harrods and Tiffany & Co. We secured a fabulous venue in central London where we hosted this training event free and exclusive to RBA members. It was wonderful to be back in a room with so many of our members, the event was really well attended despite the health and travel challenges disrupting us all at the moment.

The first workshop, which took place early January, was planned to set our members up for a great start to 2023, and it was specifically designed to equip them with the tools to implement the training within their own teams in store. The workshop focused on the fundamentals of luxury, client engagement and effective upselling. Bride expectations are higher than ever and this training supports our members to have the confidence and know-how to really deliver a luxury experience to their customers.

Feedback is key. We do regular polls to get feedback from our members on various aspects of the

membership offer. This helps us to create targeted benefits that our members find valuable.

A recent member poll showed that whilst our members love all the practical support we offer; HR resources, legal advice, training, supplier discounts, the resounding focus of what they value is the strong community that has developed over the 27 plus years that the RBA has been active.

This led us to set up a WhatsApp group for our members and it has been a joy to see the engagement on there between our eveyone.

The support, advice and overall warmth that the members show to each other is very special. It is a space that our members can come to when they are facing a difficult situation, but also where they can share their good news. We build each other up, which motivates us all to be the best we can be.

We are stepping into 2023 with some fantastic new joiners and the first of our new associate members, too. We also have our ongoing partnership with the brilliant Wendy Rivera and her team at DYSB, and we have lots of updated resources on the members’ portal bringing consistency across UK bridal shops. We are working on a handy FAQ legal guide that members can refer to for quick answers to common situations bridal retailers face… no more waiting in a queue to speak to a legal advice line.

Watch this space for more exciting news and updates from the RBA.

If you are a UK bridal retailer and want to join our wonderful association and community then please head over to our website where you can find out more about our membership offers and submit your application. We would love to hear from you.

info@rbaltd.org.uk www.rbaltd.org.uk

“It has been a joy to see the engagement between members in our WhatsApp group; the support, advice and overall warmth they show each other is very special. It motivates us all to be the best we can”

EMPOWERING SALES STAFF WITH TABLETS

Mobile devices will be standard issue for sales staff soon. Already, most restaurant servers have tablets to display the menu, take orders and send them wirelessly to the kitchen. And even the shelf stackers in Tesco have smartphones they use to locate stuff for confused shoppers.

In the fashion trade, it is now possible to equip sales people with a tablet that can browse the catalogue, consult stock lists and availability at suppliers round the globe, take orders and accept contactless payments. All without having to nip into the back office or drag the customer to a payment point. It can make the customer experience much smoother and more enjoyable as well as faster and more efficient for the salesperson.

The first decision when choosing a smartphone or tablet for sales is which operating system to go for - Apple iOS, Google’s Android or Microsoft Windows.

Windows has the advantage of being sort of compatible with most retail back-office systems, but devices such as Microsoft Surface are expensive and designed mainly for typing and drawing.

Apple’s iPhone and iPad ranges are superbly designed but intended for consumers, so they have a lot of technology that is unnecessary at work, such as top-of-the-line cameras and professionallycalibrated screens. As a result, they are eye-wateringly expensive. An added possible drawback is that you are effectively trapped inside the Apple ecosystem, which restricts your choice of both hardware and software.

Choice is not a problem with Android devices, which come in all shapes, sizes and price points. A vast number of weirdly-named Chinese makers sell tablets on Amazon very cheaply – you can get a 7in tablet for under £50 – but they tend to be slow and the screens dim. Paying a bit extra for a trusted brand is usually preferable. Screen sizes range from around 6in to a massive 15in on the impressive but expensive Samsung Galaxy Tab S8 Ultra.

One hardware advantage smartphones have over most tablets is near field communications (NFC), the radio system that enables contactless payments.

The latest tablet from HMD Global, the Finnish company that licences the Nokia brand for smartphones and

tablets, the T21, is aimed particularly at commercial applications and includes both NFC and mobile data in its premium model. NFC and 4G transform the T21 into a powerful device for trading both in the shop and at wedding fairs and so on, allowing business to be completed even without wifi.

The T21 features a smart, durable aluminium case, a big battery and a reasonable speed, certainly fast enough for Electronic Point of Sale (epos) purposes. The 10in screen is bright and supports pens using the AES 2.0 system, such as Wacom’s Bamboo Ink, which allows sales staff to use handwriting recognition if they want to, as well as make sketches. The tablet even includes Wacom’s Bamboo apps. Another interesting possibility is the ability to take customers’ signatures Contactless payment became standard during the pandemic, and now most restrictions on the maximum amount that can be paid contactlessly by smartphone have been lifted because of their built-in security systems, the T21 will allow retailers to take payments via Apple Pay, Google Pay and Samsung Pay with ease. The 4G version costs £240 at nokia.com.

The next decision is the software.

Giving your team the opportunity to work on tablets with instant access to stock holdings, order checking and contactless payment brings some real advantages, and whole new and efficient way of working, says Chris Partridge

A wide range exists, from simple apps such as myPOS Glass (mypos.com – Android only) to integrated cloud systems that do everything from CRM to inventory control, payroll and accounts such as Square, which is available on both Apple and Android.

NEW TECHNOLOGY

Belkin 3-in-1 Wireless Charger

If you have all the Apple gear including an iPhone, Watch and AirPods, charging them all can be a mess of wires. A stylish alternative is the Belkin 3-in-1 wireless charger, which has a place for each device – the phone and watch are held upright so you can see the screens (it supports Watch Nightstand mode) and the AirPods sit in their case behind the watch. Nice and tidy. £90 on Amazon

Belkin BoostUp wireless charger

If, on the other hand, you have an Android phone you may like the BoostUp charging stand (though it works with iPhones, too.) The smart cradle holds your phone either in the portrait or landscape position depending on whether you are WhatsApping your colleagues or watching video at your desk. Ideal for keeping your mobile charged to the end of the working day.

The fastest Qi charge rate possible (7.5W for iPhones, 9W for Samsung phones) is delivered automatically. £29 on Amazon

Nokia G60 smartphone

Launched with the T21 tablet, the G60 smartphone is a powerful device at a budget price. The screen is generous and bright, the front camera is perfect for video calls and selfies, and the rear cameras feature a 50MP main

sensor, which gives sharp, reliable shots in good light, and a 5MP ultrawide sensor, which fills in the side areas when taking wide angle shots. There is also a depth sensor. One of the plus points is the basic Android system – no annoying bloatware.

The G60 will appeal powerfully to eco-warriors. Recycling is a big feature – both the plastic back and the aluminium frame are made from partly recycled materials. And it can be bought on subscription, which means when you change phones Nokia will take back the unit and either refurbish or recycle it as appropriate. If you continue the subscription, you get a new phone. In addition, Nokia plants trees when you buy. £250 on Amazon

Belkin 3-in-1 Wireless Charger

Nokia G60 smartphone

Belkin BoostUp wireless charger

MOVING FORWARD

Leasehold premises

Landlords are usually flexible during a recession, so don’t shy away from negotiating or renegotiating terms of your lease.

Better for them to have you there than not, and as we know, bridal retailers run clean and quiet businesses so the prospect of you leaving to go somewhere more economical would not be advantageous to your landlord.

It wouldn’t be in their best interest to have empty premises, which could be hard to let during a recession, so I am sure they’ll be happy to oblige.

Negotiate purchasing and payment terms with your suppliers.

Enquire whether you are able to negotiate more generous payment terms, be they 30 days, 60 days, etc. If you are able to achieve this, it benefits suppliers as well as you. The easier they can make it for you, the more potentially you’ll be able to spend with them. It’s a win win.

Suppliers

Take a calm approach and take your time. Focus on what you ideally would like the outcome to be prior to your approach, and with whom. A good place to start is with the companies whose products you spend the most money on. Start the process in a prompt manner

to avoid panicking and feeling desperate and rushed at the last minute, and make sure all the details of any arrangement are lined up and running before you really need them.

It is true that the relationship you have with suppliers is one of balance. Each of you need each other. Bridal designers and manufacturers, I know, will always do their best for you and can often offer flexibility in these uncertain times.

When you take on a new supplier, it is prudent to set payment arrangements as part of negotiations, together with prices and lead times. As with everything today, negotiation is an acceptable part of business, rather than just accepting terms. You can, I am sure, reach a mutual positive compromise together.

Diversify

Have you thought about diversifying your revenue a little? There are many add ons you can offer which are available in the bridal world. You could do this via an online shop – exclusive deals, VIB club etc, alongside offering some items for sale in your boutique.

This will help increase revenue in the short-term and, of course, grow your customer base in the longterm. Spotting gaps in the bridal

market is a fantastic way of beating a downturn in business. As selfemployed people, I know you are all entrepreneurs and are fantastic at adapting and managing change.

Whether going through a recession or not, it is advisable to continually assess the performance of your stock and make the necessary culls/tweaks in order to add more profitable gowns/products down the line.

If you continue to buy only what you sell, you will be missing on a lot of opportunities which could help you through difficult times and on into future good times.

A key point here is to avoid build up of old stock. Working on the shop floor, one can become tired of seeing the same dresses day in, day out. And so can your brides; rails of dresses marked sale can put them off.

Moving dresses around your shop rails will help keep stock fresh looking; and window displays should be changed regularly, too. How many times have brides asked you if a dress is new when all you have done is move it?!

By selling off dresses which lurk (we’ve all had them) or are not working for you fairly sharpish, you can free up cash to help buy new dresses.

Aim for gowns/products which

As we work through this recession and look forward to better times, here are some of my Helena Cotter’s top tips for staying ahead

perform well and give you the best returns.

Consider having a flash sale to help declutter in terms of dresses which are not selling well for you. This will help with cash flow.

Remember to always focus on what you are best at. Don’t dilute too much your successful business model by trying to be everything to everyone. Never stray from your core values and your reasons for opening your business.

Protecting your brand

During a recession, it is important to remember that you are not losing customers, but rather that they may choose to spend less.

It is vital to continually give the best shopping experience in terms of customer care and service, and the best gowns/products.

You work very hard to be at the top of your game, so try not to cut corners in your presentation and appointments as it will only damage your reputation for being the best in your area.

This means any corners that need to be cut should not be at the cost of your customers’ buying experience, your standing in the industry or to your brides and their guests.

Keep in contact with your potential customers via social media. Let them know you are there and cannot wait to help them.

If you can demonstrate you are with your customers and are there for them, helping them work through this recession or rough patch, they won’t forget it. They will always associate you, your team and your business with a positive feeling.

Your team

Keep your staff in the loop in terms of any changes to how you are going to run your business. They are at the coalface, so to speak. Show them they are valued and included in this journey. Bridal retail is all about people. Protecting your hard-

working staff is a must generally, but, especially during a recession.

High staff turnover is not ideal and can be as a result of a lack of training. This is a professional selling job which requires specific skills, so ensure you invest in developing your team with help from outside. This should be ongoing.

Bridal retail has changed dramatically over the past five years, therefore it’s important to not only maintain 21st-century selling standards, but to have everyone singing from the same hymn sheet and staying several steps ahead of any competition.

Cash flow

By increasing your profits and being very careful about spending, you can improve your cash flow.

In an ideal world you’ll have a good two months’ worth of expenses cash to hand. You then will be prepared in advance for any downturns you may experience. Try to keep a percentage of your

hangers, dry cleaning – if you offer it, stationery, window cleaning, etc. All these little savings can add up to a lot over time.

If you have room in your boutique, do you charge for storage of gowns? I know some retailers are not keen and never would, but it makes for an income stream for little to no outlay. Brides rarely, if ever, will have insurance cover at home for their dress, so it makes sense for the experts (You) to offer to look after their dress fully insured in secure premises for a one-off cost of £XX per month or a one off fee of £XX in the run up to their wedding day or thereabouts.

Making very small changes to expenses can help keep the cash in your pocket. Even something simple like buying coffee from a coffee shop. Lunches from a snack shop. This could be anything up to £10 a day. That is a lot of money over a month. About £200. Newspapers/magazine subscriptions can cost a fortune. Consider cancelling anything which represents excess financial baggage.

revenue separate – in a savings account for rainy days. Cut back on your spending. Analyse all your expenditure over and above stock and excluding wages. Can you buy it cheaper somewhere else? Do you actually need/want what you are planning to buy?

The amount of money spent running a bridal boutique can be very high. The nature of bridal appointments means a bride is having to try on dresses in a fitting room and boutique which needs to be warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Try negotiating more favourable terms with your energy supplier.

Ditto any other companies who supply you with goods or services over and above stock. Telephone, internet, website packages, box companies, dress bags, dress

Finally, think about it long term. Managing your business through a recession is one thing, after it is over you need to carry on the good work.

Ask yourself what you want your business to look like after this recession. Write down your shortterm goals and long-term vision for your business and share them with your staff. They are the ones who will help you get there – and stay there. Keep up the fantastic work and all the best for 2023.

This year, Helena celebrates her 20th anniversary in business. The training courses she runs are perfect for either brand new or experienced staff members, and suit all sizes of new and existing businesses and budgets.

T: +44 (0)1582 451238 /+44 (0)7896 944759

E: info@helenacotter.co.uk www.helenacotter.co.uk

“How many times have brides asked you if a dress is new when all you have done is move it around your rails?”

WEDDING TRADER GOES LEGAL

Business Interruption Insurance – can you make a claim?

PART

Business interruption (BI) insurance (also called business income insurance) is a necessary part of fashion retail. It helps businesses protect against monetary losses due to periods of suspended operations when a covered event occurs and causes physical property damage. However, it is not confined to physical property damage.

The arrival of COVID-19 brought thousands of BI policies under scrutiny. For some fashion retailers, the pandemic (and consequent government closures) decimated footfall and had a huge impact on those who relied on bricks and mortar retail.

As a result, a vast number of BI policies across the UK were inspected, given that their purpose is to provide cover for business

interruption where, for example, notifiable diseases are discovered at an insured location and cause closures, or as a result of enforced closure by a local authority or government agency for health reasons.

Three recent court judgments have taken such clauses into sharper focus, following a test case decided in 2022 brought by the Financial Conduct Authority on behalf of hundreds of thousands of affected policy-holders, establishing that many business interruption policies should have provided cover against the financial losses from the pandemic. The decisions will affect thousands with BI insurance who suffered during the pandemic.

The cases before the courts explored whether an ‘event’ (eg a forced government closure) was a single event, or whether a business

could claim for multiple events (eg closures of multiple stores on multiple dates) when considering claims for BI. This was important because the clauses in question were subject to a cap (£2.5m in this case) on any pay-out for a Single Business Interruption Loss (SBIL).

If the advent of COVID constituted a single event, the amount insurers were required to pay out would be greatly reduced. If, however, multiple government closures over multiple businesses and individual premises and on multiple different dates were to be treated as separate SBILs, the caps would apply to each individual instance, and the total amount paid out would be vastly larger.

Whilst the insurers did not dispute that a pay-out was due, unsurprisingly the parties’ interpretation of the relevant

Every issue we will be bringing you the latest information on new legalities that could affect your business. This is where advice from the experts really matters...

The pandemic resulted in many previously unknown or unconsidered situations that would affect the health and wealth of business finances dramatically

clauses was very different.

The businesses alleged that government closures and restrictions during COVID-19 triggered business interruption cover multiple times in relation to multiple lockdowns and multiple premises (and multiple separate events of disease at each individual premises). The insurers claimed a much narrower definition: a single event for which they had already paid out.

For their own part, the insurers also argued that the insured companies should have to account for the government grants, which they had received as a result of the pandemic and offset them against the amounts claimed. The insured argued that there was no provision for this in the policy and therefore they had no obligation to take those sums into consideration.

The court decided – broadly

at least – for  the insurers on the balance of the points referred to above. Not only did the court rule that insurers were entitled to credit for sums received by the insured in government furlough schemes, it also found (in relation to the cap issue) that there was a single occurrence (SBIL) at the outset of the original lockdown (from March – May 2020), followed by separate occurrences in each jurisdiction within the UK as the level of restriction in place was adjusted from time to time over the course of 2020. The court ruled that where regulations merely continued existing restrictions or made small changes, this did not constitute further occurrences providing additional £2.5 million limits.

The effect of those findings was significant to reduce the claims the insured companies could make.

Take home points

Whilst this latest chapter in the story would seem to constitute a victory for the insurance industry, it serves as a timely moment for fashion retailers (particularly those who were more seriously affected by the pandemic) to review their BI policies.

First, it may well be that claims are available to be made, which were not thought to be valid prior to the test case brought by the FCA.

Second, whilst businesses will have to offset any government assistance they received against any insurance payout, these latest cases do underline the fact that, whilst there may be arguments over the extent of any pay-out, insurance companies do not seem to be arguing that no pay-out is due, and there is now precedent for the way in which the courts are likely to interpret BI clauses in general.

Making money from marmalade sandwiches: the interpretation of Royalty Audit Clauses

PART

Outside of the luxury sector, licensing plays an important role for many fashion brands as they look to expand the franchises and generate extra revenue. In respect of the latter, clauses enabling the audit of specific income streams to determine the royalties or share of income due are critical.

But whilst often overlooked during the negotiation of brand licensing agreements and merchandising agreements, audit clauses warrant careful consideration.

The importance of having a properly-constructed audit clause was highlighted very recently in a judgment concerning none other than Paddington Bear.

Facts

The judgment concerned a royalty distribution agreement (RDA) for merchandise connected to the intellectual property of Paddington

Bear. Under the terms of the RDA, the claimant was entitled to 10% of certain merchandising income generated by the defendant that owned the Paddington Bear intellectual property.

In order to verify that the correct royalties had been paid, the claimant appointed a third-party auditor to conduct audits of the defendant’s books in February 2014 and September 2017. No relevant issues arose from these audits.

In 2019, the claimant appointed a different third-party auditor to conduct a further audit of the defendant’s books. This third audit was not carried out, as there was a disagreement between the parties as to the rights granted by the audit clause in the RDA.

What did the audit clause say?

The audit clause (clause 5) of the RDA provided that: “During the term of this Agreement a third party

auditor may, upon prior written notice to Paddington [defendant] and not more than once per every two-year period, inspect the agreements and any other business records of Paddington with respect to the relevant records or associated matters during normal working hours to verify Paddington’s compliance with this Agreement.”

Judgment

At issue was the proper contractual interpretation of the audit clause in the RDA. The court provided the following guidance as to what exactly the audit clause permitted:

l The claimant was entitled to choose a third-party auditor to carry out each audit under clause 5, that is distinct from and independent of either party (save for being instructed by the claimant) and with no commercial interest in the outcome of the audit.

Franchising has many benefits both in financial terms and in broadening the appeal of a particular product or service. But it is important to be aware of the legalities that govern what both the granter and the recipient can expect

l The claimant must give the defendant prior written notice of an audit under Clause 5, which must be given a reasonable time (not less than ten clear business days) before the proposed audit and must identify the relevant period for the audit inspection.

l An audit under clause 5 may involve a period of more than two years. However, there cannot be more than one audit per two-year period, and there could not be an audit inspection in respect of a period that has already been the subject of an audit inspection pursuant to clause 5.

l An audit inspection must take place at a venue to be reasonably determined by the defendant within the defendant’s control and within normal working hours.

The judge went on to order that the defendant was to make such copies of the inspected documents as the third party auditor reasonably requests, and to permit the third party auditor to take copies himself, provided that the cost of such copies was met by the claimant and that the third party auditor keeps such copies confidential.

Further, with reference to the issue of confidentiality, the judge decided that the auditor was only permitted to disclose to the claimant such information gained from the

audit inspection as was necessary to report on the following matters:

a The conclusion reached on the audit (that is, whether or not the defendant had complied with its obligations under the RDA)

b The basis of that conclusion, and if an underpayment is found

c What further sums were due from the defendant

d The basis of calculation of such sums.

All other information received by the auditor was to be kept confidential.

Take Home Point

What the Paddington judgment highlights is that if a brand licence or merchandising agreement is unclear on the details of how audits are to be conducted, the contracting parties may be found to have different obligations or entitlements both in respect of the audit and, more particularly, the amount which is payable by one party to the other than was intended!

© 2022 Fox Williams LLP

Tayler Sani is a trainee solicitor and Stephen Sidkin, a partner at Fox Williams LLP (www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

(www.fashionlaw.co.uk; www.foxwilliams.com)

Wedding Trader is working closely with Fox Williams under whose care fashion businesses flourish with everything from securing intellectual property rights to renegotiating agency agreements and commercial leases.

“The tail part of 2022 was less than I had hoped for with so many customers voicing worries about the lack of income as a result of the impending recession. It helped, talking to others, to find that I was certainly not alone with this problem, nor that it was location-related, which had concerned me. I do think brides themselves felt better getting their own feelings out into the open and without being made to feel embarrassed.

I got in a trainer specifically to talk to my team about how best to deal with conversations that came up and you know what? We have not lost a single almost-there sale, and in fact have made additional accessories sales because we told customers they could delay payment.”

“I’m still waiting for deliveries to come in and have kept the brides on our books in the loop so they are ready to start the next round of their search. Thank you for suggesting that newsletter, JB, it worked.”

“I am now looking forward to this year’s round of trade shows and for the first time am intending to attend quite a few to compare notes and also to hopefully find some new labels that others don’t have, which would give me a bit of an edge on the local competition. Saying that, though, some of my competitors have become, if not friends, then certainly comrades, and we are exchanging information regularly, which gives us all a considerable amount of strength, certainly in our dealings with regular suppliers. Maybe I should arrange a shared trip with others to some of the shows abroad!”

“Brain-picking time.

And finally

Ups and downs, ins and outs, but so much to look forward to

I have never really sold accessories like shoes, although I have a selection in the shop for brides to try with each dress. Is this something I should consider and how much space do I need to devote to samples? Or do I just put customers in direct contact with the shoe supplier and ask for a commission on sales? I want other retailers’ views please, not shoe manufacturers’.”

Got a view you want to share with like-minded others? Want suggestions from industry colleagues? Email me – susi@rogol-goodkind.com – and we’ll get the conversation going. We are for retailers, and about retailers.

EMMY LONDON