Champa Holidays #7

V O L 0 1 I S S U E 0 7 C H A M PA H O L I D AY S T O U R A N D G U I D E I N L A O S

Issue 07 Oct - Nov 2011

ອອກພ�ນສາ, ບຸນຊວງເ�ືອ Boun Ork Phansa, End of Buddhist Lent ບຸນນະມ�ດສະການ ພະທາດວງ

Boun That Luang, Festival of the Grand Stupa

ການເ�ີນທາງສູໝາກຫ�ວໃ�ຂອງປະເ�ດ

Journey into the Heartland

ມະຫະກ�ການເ�ນ ຝ�ງແ�ຂອງ

Fang Mae Kong Dance Festival!

ສະເ�ີຼມສະອງ ບຸນກິນຈຽງ

Hmong New Year

www.laoairlines.com www.champaholiday.com

Life’s best winning moments should be celebrated with Tiger Beer. After all, we’ve won over 40 international gold medals for should taste and Notwith to mention theAfter recent the World Life’s best winning moments be quality. celebrated Tiger Beer. all,‘Gold’ we’veinwon over 40Beer Cup 2010. Sogold whatever you’re celebrating in life, the beer that’s winning the World world Beer over. international medals for taste and quality.

Notgotowith mention the recent ‘Gold’ in the Cup 2010. So whatever you’re celebrating in life, go with the beer that’s winning the world over.

3

ສານຂອງທ່ານ ດຣ. ສົມພອນ ດວງດາຣາ ຜູ້ອຳນວຍການໃຫ່ຍລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ Message from Dr.Somphone DOUANGDARA President of Lao Airlines ໃນທ່າມກາງບັນຍາກາດທີ່ທວ ົ່ ພັກທົ່ວລັດແລະປວງຊົນລາວທັງຊາດ ພວມພາກັນຫ້າວຫັນຜັນຂະຫຍາຍມະຕິ 9 ຂອງພັກລັດເຮົາຢູ່. ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ, ສາຍການບິນແຫ່ງຊາດມີຄວາມ ພູມໃຈແຈ້ງຂ່າວດີໃຫ້ແກ່ບັນດາພໍ່ແມ່ພີ່ນ້ອງ ປະຊາຊົນລາວທັງ ຫລາຍຊາບວ່າ. ລັດວິສາຫະກິດການບິນລາວ ຈະໄດ້ນຳເອົາເຮືອ ບິ ນ ຊະນິ ດ ໃໝ່ ລ ະບົ ບ ອາຍພົ່ ນ ທີ່ ທັ ນ ສະໄໝເຂົ້ າ ມາປະຈຳຝູ ງ ບິນຂອງ ບໍລິສັດ ການບິນລາວ ໃນທ້າຍເດືອນຕຸລາ ແລະ ພະຈິກ ຈຳນວນສອງ (2) ລຳ ເພື່ອບໍລິການຮັບໃຊ້ເສັ້ນທາງບິນໃໝ່ເຊັ່ນ: ວຽງຈັນ - ສິງກະໂປ ອາທິດໜຶ່ງສາມຖ້ຽວບິນຄື: ວັນຄານ, ພະຫັດ ແລະ ວັນອາທິດ ອອກຈາກວຽງຈັນເວລາ 15:10ມ ເຖິງສິງກະໂປ 17:20ມ (ຖ້ຽວບິນ QV 535) ຂາກັບເວລາ 18:30ມ ເຖິງວຽງຈັນ 20:40ມ (ຖ້ຽວບິນ QV 545). ເຮືອບີນຊະນິດດັ່ງກ່າວ ຜະລິດໂດຍ ບໍລິສັດ ແອຣ໌ບາສ (Airbus) ຊະນິດ A320 ບັນຈຸຜູ້ໂດຍສານໄດ້ 142 ຄົນ ຊັ້ນທຸລະກິດ (J Class) 16 ບ່ອນນັ່ງ ແລະ ຊັ້ນທຳມະດາ 126 ບ່ອນນັ່ງ ເສັ້ນບິນອື່ນໆຈະປະກອບດ້ວຍ ວຽງຈັນ - ບາງກອກ, ວຽງຈັນ - ຮາໂນ້ຍ, ວຽງຈັນ - ຄຸນມິງ, ວຽງຈັນ - ປາກເຊ - ໂຮຈິມິນ ແລະ ວຽງຈັນຫລວງພະບາງ. ພ້ອມ ນີ້ກໍ່ມີແຜນໄຂເສັ້ນທາງບິນໃໝ່ເຊັ່ນ: ວຽງຈັນ, ກວາງໂຈ, ວຽງຈັນ - ນະຄອນເຊອຸນ (ສ.ເກົາຫລີ) ອີກດ້ວຍ. ດັ່ງນັ້ນຈຶ່ງແຈ້ງຂ່າວດີມາຍັງພີ່ນ້ອງລາວຢູ່ທັງພາຍໃນ ແລະ ຕ່າງ ປະເທດ ພ້ອມທັງຊາວຕ່າງປະເທດຈົ່ງກຽມຕົວເພື່ອໃຊ້ບໍລິການ ຂອງ ການບິນລາວ ໄດ້ໃນເວລາມໍ່ໆນີ້ດ້ວຍເຮືອບິນຊະນິດໃໝ່ ແລະ ທັນສະໄໝ, ປອດໄພ ແລະ ປະທັບໃຈ. ສຸດທ້າຍນີ້ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ຂໍຕ່າງໜ້າໃຫ້ພະນັກງານ ແລະ ກຳມະ ກອນຂອງລັດວິສາຫະກິດຂອງ ການບິນລາວ ຂໍສະແດງຄວາມ ຮູ້ ບຸ ນ ຄຸ ນ ມາຍັ ງ ທຸ ກ ທ່ າ ນທີ່ ເ ລື ອ ກໃຊ້ ກ ານບໍ ລິ ກ ານຂອງພວກ ເຮົາ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຂໍອວຍພອນໄຊອັນປະເສີດມາຍັງບັນດາທ່ານ ຈົ່ງມີແຕ່ຄວາມສຸກ, ສຸຂະພາບເຂັ້ມແຂງ, ປະສົບ ຜົນສຳເລັດ ໃນໜ້າທີ່ການງານ ແລະ ສົມຫວັງໃນທຸກສິ່ງທີ່ທ່ານປາດຖະໜານີ້ ດ້ວຍເທີ້ນ.

While the government is proactively implementing the Resolution of the 9th Party Congress, Lao Airlines, the national airline, is proud to announce that at the end of October and beginning of November, two new modern Airbuses will serve passengers on new routes such as Vientiane – Singapore, three flights per week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays, departure from Vientiane at 15:10, arrive in Singapore at 17:20 (QV535); and departure from Singapore at 18:30, arrive in Vientiane at 20:40 (QV545).

These new airplanes, model A320, were produced by Airbus Company which can carry 142 passengers, 16 seats for business class (J Class) and 126 seats for economy class.

Other routes include Vientiane – Bangkok, Vientiane – Hanoi, Vientiane – Kunming, Vientiane – Pakse – Ho Chi Minh and Vientiane – Luang Prabang. In addition, there are plans to open new routes, including Vientiane – Guanzhou, and Vientiane – Seoul (South Korea). Therefore, we are pleased to inform all clients, locals and foreigners, domestically and abroad, to be prepared for Lao Airlines’ new, modern, safe and impressive airplanes.

On behalf of the staffs and board members of Lao Airlines, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to all clients who choose to use our services and wish everyone happiness, health and success in your careers and may you achieve all your goals.

ສາລະບານ

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Contents 9

43 Boun Ork Phansa, End of Buddhist Lent Boun That Luang, Festival of the Grand Stupa Dos & Don’ts in Laos Ecotourism Laos Five Highlights in Bokeo Province Lao Food, what’s that?

Calendar of Events ຕຳນັກຫຼວງໄຊ, ສຳພັດສະຖາປັດແຫ່ງອະນານິຄົມ Luang Say Residence, a taste of colonial life ການເດີນທາງສູ່ຫມາກຫົວໃຈຂອງປະເທດ Journey into the Heartland ມະຫະກຳການເຕັ້ນ!

Fang Mae Kong Dance Festival! ໂອເລ ຄໍາຈັນລາ: ນັກເຕັ້ນຮິບຮ໋ອບ ຈາກຝຣັ່ງ Ole Khamchanla: Hiphop dancer & choreographer Hmong New Year

Lao AIrlines In-Flight Magazine EXECUTIVE ADVISERS: MR. SOMPHONG MONGKHONVILAY MR. SOUKASEUM PHOTHISANE DR. SOMPHONE DOUANGDARA MR. SOMSANOUK MIXAY MR. CHANTHY DEUANSAVANH Editor-in-Chief: Mr. Soukhee Norasilp Proof editor: Mr. somsouk souksavath Executive Editor: insmai Creative Communication English Editor: MS. KaYing Yang PROJECT MANAGER: Mr. Xaixana Champanakone Graphic Designer: MS. Phitsamai Chanthaboury transalation: Ms. Vonglatda Omany PHOTOGRAPHER: Mr. Nico Hertweck Mr. Xaykhame Sengvilay Account-Finance: Ms. Khounkham Chanthaboury Executive Marketing: Mr. Jeppe Bauer Carlsen

jeppe@insmai.com

Marketing & Creation By: insmai Creative Communication Tel/Fax: (856-21) 223590 info@insmai.com | www.insmai.com Owner & Publisher: Inter Media Lao Co.ltd Tel/Fax: (856-21) 480947 intermedia_laos@gmail.com under license of Lao Airlines Lao Airlines Head Office: 02 Pangkham Rd, Xieng Gnune Village, Chanthaboury District, Vientiane, Lao PDR Tel : (856-21) 212051-54, 212016 Fax: (856-21) 212056, 212058 info@laoairlines.com www.laoairlines.com

Editor’s Note Dear Readers, We meet again in this seventh issue of Champa Holidays Magazine.

We have a number of interesting and educational articles for your enjoyment. As the previou issue indicated, you will find a continuation of the five-part essay “Journey into the Heartland” that describes the damages and impact of the “secret war” in Laos. Furthermore, the previous issue was published near the beginning of Buddhist Lent which is an important religious practice. In this issue, ceremonies about the end of Buddhist Lent in October are highlighted. Other special events such as Fang Mae Khong dance festival, Hmong New Year and tourism destinations are included to showcase the dynamic and rich attraction that Laos offers to visitors and residence alike.

We are proud to announce that Lao Airlines has two new airplanes, Airbus A320, to serve passengers on direct overseas routes, including Vientiane – Bangkok, Vientiane – Kunming and Vientiane – Singapore in November 2011. Congratulations to Lao Airlines!

Finally, the editorial team offers its apologies for some technical mistakes made in the last issue. Please help us improve Champa Holidays Magazine by sending your feedback to the editorial team via fax: +856-21-223590 or e-mail: info@champaholiday.com. The editorial team thanks all readers in advance for your interest.

Goodbye and I look forward to seeing you in the next issue.

Soukhee Norasilp

ວາລະສານຂອງການບິນລາວ ຄະນະທີ່ປຶກສາ: ທ່ານ ສົມພົງ ມົງຄົນວິໄລ ທ່ານ ສຸກກະເສີມ ໂພທິສານ ທ່ານ ດຣ ສົມພອນ ດວງດາລາ ທ່ານ ສົມສະນຸກ ມີໄຊ ທ່ານ ຈັນທີ ເດືອນສະຫວັນ ຫົວຫນ້າບັນນາທິການ: ທ່ານ ສຸຂີ ນໍຣະສິລປ໌

ບົດ ບ ກ ທ່ານ ຜູ້ອ່ານຈຳປາໂຮລິເດ ທີ່ເຄົາລົບ ພົບກັນອີກເທື່ອໜື່ງໃນສະບັບທ່ີ 7 ຕາມນັດໝາຍສະບັບນີ້ກໍເຊັ່ນເຄີຍ ທ່ານ ຈະ ໄດ້ພົບກັບບົດຄວາມ ການເດີນທາງສູ່ຫົວໃຈຂອງປະເທດທ່ີພັນລະນາກ່ຽວກັບ ຄວາມເສຍຫາຍ ແລະ ຜົນກະທົບຈາກສົງຄາມ “ ປິດລັບ ” ຢູ່ລາວ. ຢູ່ໃນສະບັບທີ່ ແລ້ ວ ນີ້ ໄ ດ້ ກ່ າ ວເຖິ ງ ບຸ ນ ປະເພນີ ເ ຂົ້ າ ພັ ນ ສາຂອງພຸ ດ ທະນາມະກະທັ ງ ຫຼ າ ຍ, ຢູ່ໃນສະບັບນີ້ກໍມີໃຫ້ທ່ານໄດ້ສຳພັດກັບພິທີທາງພຸດທະສາດສະໜາອີກເຊັ່ນ ເຄີຍ ພ້ອມທັງຄໍລຳທີ່ໜ້າອ່ານໃຫ້ຄວາມຮູ້ຕ່າງໆ. ສິີງທີ່ພິເສດແມ່ນ ງານປີໃຫ່ມ ຂອງຊາວມົ້ງ ແລະ ງານມະຫະກຳເຕັ້ນ, ຝັ່ງແມ່ນຳ້ຂອງ. ຂ່າວດີຈາກ ບໍລິສັດ ການບິນລາວ ທີ່ຈະນຳເອົາເຮືອບິນອາຍພົ່ນ ເຂົ້າມາບໍລິ ການຜູ້ໂດຍສານຕາມເສັ້ນທາງບິນຕ່າງປະເທດຄື: ວຽງຈັນ - ບາງກອກ, ວຽງຈັນ - ຂຸນໝິງ ແລະ ວຽງຈັນ - ສິງກະໂປ ດ້ວຍເຮືອບິນ Airbus A320 ໃນທ້າຍ ເດືອນ 11- 2011 ນີ້. ຂໍສະແດງຄວາມຍິນດີກັບ ບໍລິສັດ ການບິນລາວ ດ້ວຍ. ສຸດທ້າຍນີ້, ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ແລະ ທີມງານ ໄດ້ກວດເຫັນຂໍ້ຜິດພາດທາງດ້ານ ເຕັກນິກບາງປະການ ຊຶ່ງຄະນະຈັດທຳໄດ້ປະຊຸມກັນ ແລະ ແກ້ໄຂໃຫ້ດີຂື້ນກວ່າ ເກົ່ າ ຂໍ ອ ະໄພໃນຄວາມຜິ ດ ພາດ. ຖ້ າ ທ່ າ ນຜູ້ ອ່ າ ນຄົ ນ ໃດມິ ຄ ຳຕຳນິ ຕິ ຊົ ມ ກ່ຽວກັບການຈັດທຳໜັງສື ຈຳປາໂຮລິເດ ກໍ່ຂໍເຊີນສົ່ງຄຳຕຳນິຕິຊົມມາຍັງກອງ ບັນນາທິການ ຂອງພວກເຮົາໄດ້ ຕາມທີ່ຢູ່ຈະເປັນໂທລະສານ(ແຟັກ): +85621-223590 ຫຼື E-mail: info@champaholiday.com ກໍໄດ້ ທາງກອງ ບັນນາທິການຂອງພວກ ເຮົາຂໍສະແດງຄວາມຂອບໃຈໄວ້ລວ ່ ງ ໜ້າມານະທີ່ນດ ີ້ ວ ້ ຍ. ສະບາຍດີພົບກັນໃໝ່ໃນສະບັບໜ້າ. ສຸຂີ ນໍຣະສິລປ໌

ບັນນາທິການພິສູດອັກສອນ: ທ່ານ ສົມສຸກ ສຸກສະຫວັດ ບັນນາທິການບໍລິຫານ: ອິນສະໄຫມ ການສື່ສານທີ່ສ້າງສັນ ບັນນາທິການພາສາອັງກິດ: ທ່ານນາງ ຄາຍີງ ຢາງ ຫົວຫນ້າໂຄງການ: ທ່ານ ໄຊຊະນະ ຈຳປານະຄອນ ອອກແບບ ແລະ ຈັດຫນ້າ: ທ່ານນາງ ພິດສະໄຫມ ຈັນທະບູລີ ຈັດທຳການແປ: ທ່ານນາງ ວົງລັດດາ ໂອມະນີ ຖ່າຍພາບ: ທ່ານ ນິໂຄ ເຮີດເວັກ ທ່ານ ໄຊຄຳ ແສງວີໄລ ບັນຊີ-ການເງິນ: ທ່ານນາງ ກຸນຄຳ ຈັນທະບູລີ ຜູ້ຈັດການ ຝ່າຍການຕະຫຼາດ: ທ່ານ ເຈພີ ເຢຍເປີ ຄາຣເຊັນ jeppe@insmai.com ການຕະຫຼາດ-ໂຄສະນາ ແລະ ສ້າງສັນ: ອິນສະໄຫມ ການສື່ສານທີ່ສ້າງສັນ, ໂທແຟັກ: (856-21) 223590 info@insmai.com | www.insmai.com ເຈົ້າຂອງ ແລະ ຜູ້ຈັດພິມ: ບໍລິສັດ ອິນເຕີ ມີເດຍ ລາວ ຈຳກັດ ໂທແຟັກ: (856-21) 480947 intermedia_laos@gmail.com under license of Lao Airlines ສຳນັກງານໃຫຍ່: 02 ຖະຫນົນປາງຄຳ, ບ້ານຊຽງຢືນ ເມືອງຈັນທະບູລີ, ນະຄອນຫຼວງວຽງຈັນ ໂທ : (856-21) 212051-54, 212016 ແຟັກ: (856-21) 212056, 212058 info@laoairlines.com www.laoairlines.com

by Somsanouk Mixay

A

fter three months of retreat during the rainy season, the clergy and the lay community end the Buddhist Lent with important ceremonies. The first ceremony is Pavarana, which is observed exclusively by monks and is sometimes compared to a confession. Novices and lay people are not permitted to join this ceremony. On the 15th day of the waxing moon of the 11th month of the Lao calendar (this year, October 12), at dawn, all the monks in the monastery gather at the Sim or Viharn, the main chapel. There each monk tells his peers all the shortcomings and encroachments he may have committed to the 227 rules of the Sangha, the monastic community, during the period of Lent and asks for forgiveness. Three times, each monk also requests the other monks to tell him any failure or shortcoming they may have noticed in him. He then listens to the observations of the other monks with humility and promises to improve himself. This ceremony officially ends the Lent.

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The lay community participates in the usual rites of a holy day: prayers, request for and acceptance of the Five Precepts (do not kill, do not steal, do not commit adultery, do not lie and do not drink alcohol), Takbat or morning offering which are placed in the monks’ and novices’ alms bowls, listening to the reading of holy scriptures’ by a senior monk and ablutions to transfer merits to the dead.

In the evening, the monastic community and the lay people participate in a candlelit procession three rounds around the Sim. On this special evening, all monuments in the monastery, Sim, Stupa, Kouti or monk’s quarters are illuminated with candles. Lay people also light candles all around their houses.

This is in homage to Buddha.

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Bang Fai Phanya Nak, The Naga King’s Rockets

At the end of Buddhist Lent a strange phenomenon happens every year on the Mekong River, some fifty kilometers downstream from Vientiane. It is called Bang Fai Phanya Nak or the Naga King’s rockets. Tennis size balls of red colour emerges from the water one after another and are projected high into the air before it disappears. Some years, hundreds of these fireballs erupt from the water into the air. It is believed that the fireballs are sent by the King of the Nagas in homage to Lord Buddha at the End of Lent. Scientists think the fireballs are just methane gas. But why do they come out precisely on the End of Buddhist Lent? This mysterious event attracts scores of people from both Laos and Thailand. The event happens only once a year, on and around the day of the End of Buddhist Lent.

Lai Hua Fai, Festival of the Boats of Light

Lai Hua Fai means “floating boats of light downstream”. This festival is celebrated on the night of the End of Lent. It is held all over Laos, especially where there is a river. The festival in Vientiane attracts big crowds of devotees and tourists but the one in Luang Prabang is even more spectacular. Every family makes a small round container, using banana leaves on a section of banana trunk. They put flowers, incense sticks, candles, betel nuts and other condiments for chewing and sometimes food and money. At the bank of the river, they light the candles, say prayers and send the boat of light floating away. The spectacle of thousands of boats of light with their twinkling candles on the Mekong River is most moving.

This rite has several aims. One is in homage to the river, especially the Mekong River, which literally means Mother of All Things. It is also to ask the river and all divinities inhabiting it for forgiveness for disrespect or misuse of its water. It is also a way to send away all negativity such as sickness, bad luck, shortcoming and failure.

Lai Hua Fai is also aimed at sending offerings to the dead. But most of all, it is a homage to the Lord Buddha. Temples and villages build their boats of light, which are much bigger and more elaborately decorated. Two types of boats of light are built for that night: the normal Hua Fai, which is to be floated down the river, and Hua Fai Khowk, which will stay on the temple ground. Both are made of bamboo and coloured paper and can be several meters long. In Luang Prabang, each temple and each village send a boat to join the procession on the main street leading to Vat Xiengthong. Once at this beautiful 16th century temple, the boats are lined up and a jury awards prizes to the most beautiful boats. After that, one by one, the boats are brought down the staircases of Vat Xiengthong, reminiscent of a scene from the film Fitzcaraldo when people carry a boat from the mountain down to the river. Then they are delicately put on the water and floated down the Mekong River among thousands of small individual banana leaf skiffs in a breathtaking sea of lights.

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Boun Suang Hua, Boat Race Festival In Luang Prabang, Boun Suang Hua, or the Boat Race Festival is held on Hor Khao Padap Din, the Day of the Commemoration of the Dead (in August). In Vientiane it is held the day after the End of Buddhist Lent. Both are important social and sports events witnessed by huge crowds. One week before the race, Fa Ngoum Quai (along Fa Ngoum road) is taken over by stalls selling all kinds of goods and foods or games, and loud music is played all day and late into the night. On the day of the race, Vientiane City officials visit all the sanctuaries of the Guardian Spirits of the City to make offerings, request permission to hold the race and ask for their protection during the event. Big crowds gather along the banks of the Mekong River to watch and cheer on the boats. Next to the official stand a traditional orchestra plays to accompany each race and accelerate the tempo as the boats closes in on the finish line, dramatically adding to the momentum.

Traditional racing boats are carved using one single tree. The boats belong to a village and are usually kept in a shelter on the temple grounds and come out only once a year for the race. Several days before the race the boats are cleaned and presented with offerings because the boats are considered sacred items.

These boats can hold approximately fifty paddlers. The morning is devoted to women’s crews and the afternoon to men’s crews. The starting point is two kilometers upstream and the competition is between two boats at a time. The loser is eliminated. After the final race, all the boats participate in a final competition/show, which is rather spectacular. The winners receive a trophy, a silver cup and cash.

While the boat racing has become a focus of entertainment, athletics and commerce, the Boat Festival is really an homage to water divinities and the Nagas, who are protector of the country.

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Boun That Luang Festival of the Grand Stupa

by Somsanouk Mixay

T

he That or Stupa is found in different shapes and sizes in every monastery in the world, especially in Laos.

The Stupa, which is composed of three levels: the base, the body and the spire, is the symbol of the Cosmos. The most important ones are shrines to relics of Buddha.

That Luang, the Grand Stupa, in Vientiane is sanctuary to the Lord’s hair and bosom bone. It was built over an ancient stupa in the 16th century, by King Setthathirath when he moved the capital of the Lane Xang Kingdom from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. It has since become the symbol of Laos and is profoundly revered by all Lao people.

The That Luang religious festival last three days. It starts with the wax castle procession at Vat Simuong (this year, on 8 November) and end with a procession around the stupa (on 10 November). Thousands of monks and tens of thousands of pilgrims come from all over the country and even from Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam to attend the festival.

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One week before the religious festival, a huge international trade fair features goods and exhibitions from all over the world. The religious festival starts with the procession at Vat Simuong to worship the City’s foundation pillar and pay homage to Nya Mae Simuong or Lady Simuong, a pregnant woman, inspired by the divinities, jumped into the hole in which the city pillar was about to be planted and was thus crushed to death. She has become, since, the protector of Vientiane and inhabitants devote a special cult to her. The procession gather Phasat Pheung (wax castles) of banana trunks and decorated with flowers made of wax. The Phasat, which are commissioned by families or villages in and procession around Vientiane, are carried three times around the Sim and then offered to the temple. This procession is very spontaneous and colourful and ends with fireworks, which symbolizes an offering of flowers of light to Lord Buddha.

12

The next day, at 1:00 pm, a bigger and more elaborate procession brings more wax castles through the Eastern Gate of the That Luang cloister. The wax castles are carried three times around the Grand Stupa and offered to the shrine.

On the last day of the festival (on 10 November), as early as 5:00 am, thousands of devotees gather in the cloister and around it, on the esplanade for the Takbat, the morning offering to the monks. After the ceremony, each family gather at stalls to eat Khao Poun, the national rice noodle soup and Tom Kai, chicken soup.

Early in the afternoon, there is the ritual game of Teekhee, a polo game traditionally played in the Kingdom of Vientiane and believed to be exported to Burma and later to England. In the past, the game was between a team of officials and a team of villagers. The latter should always be victorious. Nowadays, it is merely a sports game between two teams from Vientiane.

In the evening, monks and devotees attend a candlelit procession around the Grand Stupa and the Festival is closed with an important offering of flowers of light to Lord Buddha (spectacular fireworks).

LAOS IS A LAND OF FESTIVALS. Every village, every temple, and every ethnic minority not only celebrates its own special festivals but also joins the wider Lao community in celebrating the national events as well. This book explores the most important festivals of Laos and offers a rare and fascinating glimpse into the spiritual and communal life of the Lao people. Written and photographed by experts in Lao history, society, and culture, festivals of Laos is a wonderful combination of insightful narrative and stunning photography.

TEXT BY MARTIN STUART-FOX AND SOMSANOUK MIXAY. PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVE NORTHUP.

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DOS & DON’TS

IN LAOS

WELCOME TO LAOS! WE HOPE YOUR VISIT IS ENJOYABLE AND REQUEST THAT YOU RESPECT THE LAO LAW, CULTURE AND CUSTOMS. PLEASE READ ON TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE DO’S AND DON’TS FOR CULTURALLY SENSITIVE TRAVEL IN THE LAO PDR.

The Lao word for Hello is “Sabai dee”, usually said with a smile.

Touching or showing affectionn in public will embarrass your hosts.

Lao people traditionally greet each other by pressing their palms together to ‘NOP’, although it is acceptable for men to shake hands.

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Kissing and hugging in public is impolite. Please be discrete.

Remember, your head is ‘high’, your feet ’low’, it is polite to gently crouch down when passing someone who is seated. Never, ever step over someone in your path.

In Laos your head is ‘High’, your feet ‘Low’. Using your feet for anything other than walking or playing sport is generally considered rude.

Lao people speak softly and avoid confrontation. Please do not shout or raise your voice. Before you take a photo of someone ask if it is ok.

Touching someone’s head is very, very impolite.

Lao people appreciate clean and neatly dressed visitors.

Please do not distribute gifts to children as it encourages begging, but give to an established organization or village elders instead.

Bathing nude in public is impolite.

Please remember to take your shoes off before you enter a Lao person’s home.

Try eating delicious Lao food whenever you can. It helps local business and Lao farmers.

Monks are revered and respected in Laos. However woman should not touch a monk or a monk’s robes.

Please help keep Laos clean and beautiful by not leaving litter. Picking up rubbish sets a good example for Lao youth.

Laos loses a little of its heritage every time an antique is taken out of the country. Please do not buy antique Buddha or other sacred items. Instead, support local craftsmen by purchasing new, quality handicrafts.

Please show respect and dress neatly while in temples and when taking photos.

There are many other sacred items and sites in Lao. Please don’t touch or enter these places without permission.

The use of drugs is illegal in Laos. The consequences may be severe for you and Lao society.

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Ecotourism Laos Five Highlights in Bokeo Province

Bernie Rosenbloom spotlights five of Bokeo Province’s top attractions, from a 100-year-old French fort and a 1,000-yearold city to treetop living, an ethnic handicraft collective, and a half-day tour of historic Houei Xay Town.

Visitors arriving in quiet Houei Xay on the Mekong often overlook Bokeo Province as they clamber into boats headed for Luang Prabang. However, their haste has left behind the untouched mountains of northwestern Laos and rare experiences reserved for those seeking true adventures. Houei Xay Town offers comfortable accommodation, a variety of restaurants, and transportation, perfect for enjoying a memorable stay away from the tourist scene.

1. A Strategic French Fort

Built in 1900 on a hill overlooking Houei Xay and Thailand, Fort Carnot served as colonial France’s western-most strategic stronghold for controlling Mekong River traffic.

Though undergoing restoration, Fort Carnot today stands among Laos’ best-preserved colonial military outposts.

The eastern rampart’s barracks and main gate remain intact, as do its corner bastions, with tunnels leading soldiers to outside watchtowers. Riflemen once pointed guns towards the Mekong through slits along the southern barricade. The tall western tower and wall show their age, but you can still see rifle racks on the rooms’ walls. The north block, being developed into a museum, most likely held the kitchen and jail.

2. The Gibbon Experience

Laos’ hottest adventure takes you to tree-top sleeping quarters in the Nam Kan National Protected Area, and a network of canopy zip-lines for an aerial opportunity to spot rare black-cheeked crested gibbons. A one-hour walk from Ban Don Chai ends at tree houses, “hides” for watching canopy wildlife, and access to nature trails and the zipline highway, with local guides ready to lead the way and prepare fire-cooked meals and snacks. The Gibbon Experience offers two- and three-day adventures that include canopy accommodation with views overlooking river valleys, mountain tops, and a waterfall swimming hole. Website: www.gibbonexperience.org.

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3. The Golden Triangle’s Secret

The remnants of little-known, 1,000-year-old Souvannakhomkham City quietly sprawl through a 10,000-hectare field some 50 km west of Houei Xay in the Golden Triangle.

A massive headless Buddha sits alone near the roadside, and Ban Done That’s Visitor Centre displays the ancient civilization’s pottery and stone relics, while kicking off a trail that winds around grass-covered brick stupas to a timeless, seven-meter-tall Buddha, one of Laos’ largest. On the riverroad ride back to town, stop at Nang Peng’s in Nam Keung Mai for what many call the country’s best khao soi noodle soup. Continue to the Nam Nyon Waterfalls for a swim, and visit the gold-plated princess sculpted into a boulder at a rest stop near Pak Ngao.

4. Bokeo’s Handicraft Bounty

Handicraft hunters can hit the mother lode at the new Don Chai Visitor Centre, about 70 km north of Houei Xay on Route 3 to Luang Namtha. Where the Bokeo Handicraft Collective sells its goods. Among the collective’s members, Hmong embroiderers offer decorative fabric wall hangings, cloth key chains, and dangling ornaments with intricate designs. The Tai Lue present a variety of woven household items such as coasters, placemats, tablecloths, curtains, bedspreads, and cushion covers. Shoppers can also purchase everyday products used by ethnic locals such as wicker baskets and drinking vessels made from dried gourds.

5. Houei Xay Town Tour

Start by climbing the steep staircase to Vat Jom Khao Manilat across from the pier road and rest on its peaceful grounds. Constructed around 1880, the teak temple remains in pristine condition, and is joined by a sizeable golden stupa, majestic gong tower and wonderful view.

Next, explore Fort Carnot (see above), before the ascent to the small, hilltop Vat Pha Thad, originally built in 1022.

Also on the compound are a golden stupa and a row of eight golden Buddha images in different positions. Return to town, and browse the shops around the market. You’ll find everything from rattan stools and baskets to Bokeo wines, whiskies and fruit-flavoured liqueurs. Tuk-tuks are available for hire in Houei Xay. Vang View Tours rents motorcycles and Bo-Sapphire Tours rents bicycles.

For a complete description and to book these programs, visit the Bokeo Tourism Information Centre on Houei Xay’s main road across from the pier road and duty-free shop.

Email: bkbounsavath@gmail.com Tel: (024) 211-162

You may take Lao Airlines flight from Vientiane - Houei Xay - Vientiane every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday.

Flight details, read more on page 55

For more information, visit:

www.ecotourismLaos.com | www.tourismlaos.org | www.stdplaos.com

V

ientiane-based travel writer, Bernie Rosenbloom, has covered Southeast Asia for more than 15 years. He has authored several Lao provincial guidebooks, and co-authored “The Guide to Responsible Tourism in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam”. Along with Champa Holiday, Bernie has recently contributed feature stories about Laos to Sawasdee, PATA Compass, Travel Review, Yunnan Mekong Travel, and Travel Trade Gazette.

Contact: bernie.rosenbloom@gmail.com.

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Lao

what’s that

?

by Xaixana Champanakone Cooking at home

Introduction

Kin Khao – ‘eat rice’ is the daily celebration of life, and the way of cooking what you ‘eat with rice’ – kin kap khao – reflects the Lao attitude to life : Simplicity.

5.

Tom and Gaeng, soups of a kind There are tom and there are gaeng, both are ‘soups’ in English whereby gaeng is misleadingly translated into ‘curry’.

Three rocks, some firewood and a pot will do the trick, and a mortar and pestle would come in handy. Ah, and a steam pot and bamboo basket!

Tom - “to boil” or “boiled” - are clear soups without vegetables mostly made of fish or chicken with some celery or coriander and a few thin slice of ginger added. It is seasoned with pepper & salt only and ‘crowned’ with thinly sliced spring onion when served. Boil chicken bones the longer the better, while fish bones will take no more than twenty minutes before they start producing glue.

You buy fresh in the market what has been newly gathered and caught along the rivers, in the fields and in the jungle vegetables, leaves, herbs and fish. Whatever livestock runs around the house yard makes for a feast.

Bamboo skewers grill things on the fire while banana leaf wrappings roast food in the hot ashes or steam it in the bamboo basket; the pot cooks soups and stews, and fries the odd meat. Mortar and pestle pound roots and spices, chilli pastes and the life sustaining papaya salad; and the steamer and basket makes a home for it all with sticky rice.

With few tools and some herbs the Lao know to magically produce culinary delight, finely balanced in flavour, varied in preparation, all of it ultra healthy - light and fresh.

Cooking and life - simple, immediate, receiving the abundance of nature with humility. Every meal is Thanksgiving, an auspicious and merry occasion blessed by the presence of family, friends, neigbours and colleagues … or you as the guest, anytime.

Where does this leave you?

Venture on foot or by kayak into the deep countryside for a ‘homestay’, eat in the local street stalls or bypass exercise and culture shock and go adventuring at a restaurant dedicated to serving Lao food in style.

Where daily meals are ‘ingenuity in simplicity’ – sticky rice, a chilli dip, something grilled and something boiled, all of which is accompanied by mountains of fresh herbs – festive occasions justify the extra effort to produce some of the Lao signature dishes to be featured in this magazine’s next issues together with everyday fare for healthy sustenance : Copyright © Vincent Fischer-Zernin 2010

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Sour taste

Tom kadouk (bones). The heigth of simplicity? You have any chicken or fish bones left over, that’s all you need; proceed as per above! This bare-boned soup is hard to beat in sophistication; perfection in simplicity.

Som I - sour taste add some lime, lime leaves, lemongrass or tamarind and you’ve got the sour version. The ‘sour’ touch is very much part of Lao cooking.

Som II - anything fermented by means of sticky rice produces a sour taste hence som (see nomai som next page.) Som as in ‘fermented’ plays such an integral role in Lao cooking that a future article will be dedicated to it.

Tom gai - boiled chicken, insides and all. This is the dish to eat picnic-style on the

morning after tak baht (alms giving to the monks) during the festival of Boun That Luang which is celebrated every November around Viangchan’s Great Stupa, symbol of the nation. It’s real, come and partake in this happy congregation of the Lao peoples.

Boiled bamboo shoot soup

Gaeng are rich vegetable soups made of many ingredients boiled together for a short period of time. Add ginger or galangal and meat of your choice. In Laos these soups do not consist of heavy coconut cream-plussomething-else (with the exception of Luang Prabang cuisine which does at times apply a touch of coconut cream). And they are not made with curry powder, either, so nostalgically remembered by the uninitiated from British ‘Raj’ colonial days.

Gaeng Nomai - boiled bamboo shoots, yellow gourd and mushrooms thickened with pounded soaked sticky rice, flavoured with fermented fish and coloured green with the extract of a jungle leaf called bai yanang.

Fermented bamboo shoot soup

Fish soup

Gaeng ‘nomai som’ with chicken - fermented bamboo shoot soup which is prepared in about as many ways as there are people in Laos and, of course, My Mother’s is The Best! The high art of cooking this dish lies in the preparation of the nomai som; not bitter, not too sour.

Glass noodle soup

Duck blood soup

Gaeng ‘joed’ (as in ‘bland’, no chilli in sight), are clear soups made of pork stock typically featuring glass noodles, mushrooms, minced pork, tofu and leafy vegetables spiced to taste with black pepper. Take this dish international by adding sea algae of Japanese fame. I have yet to encounter the clear and fiery hot gaeng ‘pa’ ‘jungle’ variety here in Laos.

And there is leuat paeng, nothing other than duck blood soup, raw like ‘steak tartar’.

See you for the next issue

Lao Cooking and The Essence of Life by Xaixana Champanakone

- Monument Books in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse - Green Discovery Travel Specialists’ offices in Luang Namtha, Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Vientiane, Thakhaek and Pakse - Preview and online purchase at tropicaldesignfz.net/book 19

Calendar of Events 13

7: 8:

17-20 12

9-10

25

12:

Indepemdence Day (1945) Ork Phansa/End of Buddhist Lent (Nationwide) (see article on page 8) In the evening, Lai Hua Fai: Floating of Boats of Light. Spectacular in Luang Prabang and Vientiane.

13:

Boat Race Festival in Vientiane (see article on page 11)

17-20:

Taste Week, Food Festival at French Institute, Vientiane

19-23:

Lao Handicraft Festival at Lao ITECC Convention and Exhibition Hall Lao Handicraft Day; Everybody is urged to wear Lao dress That Luang International Fair opens on That Luang Esplanade & at Lao ITECC

4:

Mezcall Jazz Unit: 7 p.m. at the French Institute, Vientiane

5:

Mezcall Jazz Unit: 7 p.m. at Thakhek, Khammuan Province

7-19:

First Manga Festival in South East Asia, Vientiane; Including Books and Comic Books Exhibition; Concert by Requins Marteaux, Manga Contest on Fake Drugs and Deforestation; Video: Capitale Vientiane and David Boller at French Institute

8:

Boun Vat Simuong, Vientiane. At 7 p.m.: Hae Phasat Pheung (Procession of Wax castles) followed by Bang Fai Dok, offering of flowers of light to Buddha (Traditional fireworks).

Boun That Luang (Festival of the Grand Stupa) (see article on page 12)

19:

Women’s International Group Bazaar at the Faculty of Engineering

25:

Hmong New Year (to be confirmed) (see article on page 44)

28:

Miss Laos Beauty Pageant

3-10: 13:

3-10

November

3:

2:

20 13

Jazz Concert, Benzine and Soobin Park, 7 p.m., French Institute, Vientiane Fang Mae Khong International Dance Festival in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Thakhek (see article on page 37)

8-10:

2

National Teachers’ Day (Nationwide)

8-23:

1:

1

October

13-21:

December

National Day. Establishment of the Lao PDR (1975) Luang Prabang Film Festival Birthday of Late President Kaysone Phomvihane National Sports Games in Luang Prabang

Luang Say Residence, a taste of colonial life

by Somsanouk Mixay

W

hen you enter the Luang Say Residence, the latest addition to Luang Prabang’s growing number of luxury hotels, you feel you’ve been transported decades back in time, to another world, another time, when French explorers sailed up the Mekong River and stopped at this magical northern city.

French architect Francois Greck recreated the colonial atmosphere by designing the elegant architecture of the main building and the five pavilions scattered amidst the lush one-hectare tropical garden in the tranquillity of Luang Prabang’s Ban Phou Pheng. “We don’t want our guests to feel they are in a hotel. They must feel they are at home in a luxury master’s house,” says General Manager Rodolphe J.A. Gay, who has spent a dozen years managing hotels in the United States and Thailand.

The hotel’s 24 suites are comfortable, exquisitely decorated and functionally equipped. The colonial style furniture is made locally of precious wood. The beds are hung with mosquito nets, which add an old-fashioned touch to the overall atmosphere. The four Explorer Suites are located on the upper floor of the master building, which also houses the lobby, the restaurant and the bar.

The design of the pavilions takes you through the history of French exploration up the Mekong River in Laos in the 19th century. Each villa houses four Pioneer Suites and is dedicated to such personages as Auguste Pavie (1847-1925) a consul General

8eoads^;’w-

leraflt4kxafcmj’vtokoy7q, ໂດຍ ສົມສະນຸກ ມີໄຊ ເມື່ອທ່ານຍ່າງກ້າວເຂົ້າໄປຕຳນັກຫລວງໄຊ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນໜຶ່ງໃນຈໍານວນໂຮງ ແຮມຫລູຫລາໃໝ່ຫລ້າສຸດທີ່ເກີດຂຶ້ນຢ່າງຫລວງຫລາຍ, ທ່ານຈະຮູ້ສຶກ ຄື ທ່ານຖືກພາກັບໄປໃນອະດີດຫລາຍທົດສະວັດກ່ອນ, ໄປອີກໂລກໜຶ່ງ, ອີກໄລຍະເວລາໜຶ່ງ ເມື່ອນັກສໍາຫລວດຝຣັ່ງ ພາຍເຮືອມາຮອດແມ່ນໍ້າຂອງ ແລະ ໄດ້ຢຸດຢູ່ທີ່ເມືອງທາງເໜືອທີ່ໜ້າ ມະຫັດສະຈັນ. ບໍລິສັດອອກແບບ ເຝັຣນຈ໌ ອາກິເຕັກ ຝຣັ່ງຊົວ ເກັຣກ (French architect Francois Greck) ໄດ້ສ້າງບັນຍາກາດສະໄໝເມືອງຂຶ້ນ ຄືນໃໝ່ໂດຍການ ອອກແບບສະຖາປັ ດ ຕະຍາກໍ າ ທີ່ ມີ ຄ ວາມສະຫ່ ງ າງາມຂອງຕຳນັ ກ ຫລັ ງ ຫລັກ ແລະ ສາລາຫ້າຫລັງຢັ່ງຢາຍຢູ່ ທ່າມກາງສວນຕົ້ນໄມ້ຂຽວອຸ່ມທຸ່ມ ໃນເນື້ອທີ່ໜຶ່ງເຮັກຕາທີ່ເຢັນສະບາຍ ແລະ ງຽບສະຫງົບຂອງບ້ານພູແພງ ຫລວງພະບາງ. “ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ບໍ່ຕ້ອງການໃຫ້ແຂກທີ່ມາພັກຮູ້ສຶກຄືເຂົາ ເຈົ້າມາພັກຢູ່ໂຮງແຮມ. ພວກເຂົາເຈົ້າ ຕ້ອງຮູ້ສຶກວ່າພວກເຂົາຢູ່ໃນບ້ານຕົ້ນ ແບບທີ່ມີຄວາມຫລູຫລາ,” ທ່ານ ໂຣດອລຟ໌ ເຈ.ເອ. ເກ (Rodolphe J.A. Gay) ຜູ້ຈັດການທົ່ວໄປ ເຊິ່ງເຄີຍບໍລິຫານໂຮງແຮມຫລາຍປີຢູ່ອາເມຣິກາ ແລະ ໄທ. ຫ້ອງສູດ 24 ຫ້ອງ ຂອງໂຮງແຮມ ມີຄວາມສະດວກສະບາຍທີ່ໄດ້ ຕົກແຕ່ງຢ່າງສວຍງາມ ແລະ ເຕັມໄປດ້ວຍສິ່ງອໍານວຍຄວາມສະດວກ ຕ່າງໆ. ເຟີນເິ ຈີສະໄໝເມືອງຂຶ້ນທີ່ເຮັດຈາກໄມ້ລາຄາແພງໃນທ້ອງຖີ່ນ. ຕຽງ ນອນມີຂະໜາດໃຫ່ຍມີມຸ້ງກັນຍຸງ, ໃຫ້ຄວາມຮູ້ສຶກ ແລະ ບັນຍາກາດສະ ໄໝໂບຮານ. ຫ້ອງສູດເອັກສໂປເຣີ ສີ່ຫ້ອງຢູ່ຊັ້ນ ເທິງຂອງຕຳນັກຫລັງຫລັກ ເຊິ່ງຍັງມີບ່ອນນັ່ງຫລິ້ນພ້ອມທັງຮ້ານອາຫານ ແລະ ບາ. ການອອກແບບຂອງສາລາ ຈະພາທ່ານຜ່ານປະຫວັດສາດຂອງ ການສໍາ ຫລວດຝຣັ່ງ ເທິງແມ່ນໍ້າຂອງຢູ່ລາວ ໃນສັດຕະຫວັດທີ 19. ສາລາແຕ່ລະ ຫລັງ ມີຫ້ອງສູດສີ່ຫ້ອງ ແລະ ອຸທິດໃຫ້ແກ່ບຸກຄົນສໍາຄັນຄືອາກຸດສ໌ ປາວີ (Auguste Pavie, 1847-1925), ກົງສູນ ແລະ ຕໍ່ມາໄດ້ເປັນຜູ້ຕາງ

22

23

and then Commissioner and Plenipotantiary Minister, who wrote books about his mission to Laos; Doudart de Lagree and Francis Garnier; drawer Louis Delaporte, who made precious prints of the ruins of Vientiane, which had been ransacked by the Siamese, and naturalist Henri Mouhot, who died in Luang Prabang. Their statues stand in the garden near the entrance of their respective pavilion.

Back in the main building, in the bar and smoking room decorated with ancient weapons, the ambiance conjure up scenes of moustached explorers boasting their hunting exploits while sipping a glass of Cognac amidst the fumes of cigars. So much that one could almost picture someone addressing another seated in a cosy velvet armchair: “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”

The restaurant La Belle Epoque, is an elegant setting with one main room and surrounding terrace overlooking the swimming pool, features traditional Lao cuisine from Luang Prabang but also western classics like baked salmon, duck leg confit, coq au vin, lamb chop or rib eye steak. Chef Pittaya selects fresh produces from Luang Prabang’s market every morning to craft the most delicious dishes and is ready to heed any of the guests’ culinary fantasy, just ask young F&B Director Edouard Dore. And for those who are eager to visit Luang Prabang’s temples and the region’s waterfalls or have no time to sit for a meal, the chef can prepare an array of burgers and fresh baguette sandwiches to go.

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ໜ້າ ແລະ ລັດຖະມົນຕີທີ່ມີອໍານາດ, ພ້ອມຍັງໄດ້ຂຽນໜັງສືກ່ຽວກັບພາລະ ກິດຂອງລາວຢູ່ ປະເທດລາວ; ດູດາກ ເດີ ລາກຣີ (Doudart de Lagree) ແລະ ຝຣັ່ງຊີສ໌ ກາກນີເອ (Francis Garnier); ລຸຍສ໌ ເດີລາປອກ (Louis Delaporte) ນັກແຕັມຮູບ ຜູ້ທີ່ໄດ້ແຕ້ມຮູບຄວາມເສຍຫາຍຂອງວຽງຈັນ ທີ່ຖືກ ໂຈມຕີໂດຍສະຫຍາມ, ແລະ ເຮັນຣີ ມູຮອກ (Henri Mouhot) ນັກທໍາມະຊາດວິທະຍາຜູ້ທີ່ໄດ້ເສຍ ຊີວິດຢູ່ຫລວງພະບາງ. ຮູບປັ້ນຂອງ ພວກເຂົາເຈົ້າຢືນຢູ່ໃນສວນໃກ້ທາງ ເຂົ້າຂອງແຕ່ລະສາລາ. ກັບໄປເຮືອນພັກຫລັງຫລັກ, ບາ ແລະ ຫ້ອງສູບຢາໄດ້ຖືກຕົກແຕ່ງດ້ວຍ ອາວຸດສະໄໝໂບຮານ, ສ້າງບັນຍາກາດພິເສດດ້ວຍຮູບພາບນັກສໍາຫຼວດ ທີ່ເຕັມໄປດ້ວຍໜວດເຄົາໂອ້ອວດກ່ຽວກັບການລ່າສັດ ຂອງພວກເຂົາໃນຂະ ນະທີ່ກໍາລັງຊີມຈອກເຫລົ້າ ຄອນຫຍ໋າກ (Cognac) ທ່າມກາງຄວນຊີກ້າ. ທ່ າ ນສາມາດວາດມະໂນພາບໄດ້ ເ ຖິ ງ ຄົ ນ ທີ່ ນັ່ ງ ຢູ່ ເ ທິ ງ ຕັ່ ງ ນຸ້ ມ ໆໃນບັ ນ ຍາ ກາດສະບາຍໆ: “ດຣ. ລີຟວິງສໂຕນ, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເຊື່ອວ່າແນວນັ້ນ?” ຮ້ານອາຫານ ລາ ແບລ ເອີປົກເກິ (La Belle Epoque), ໃນບັນຍາກາດ ອັນກ້ວາງຂວາງກັບຫ້ອງຫຼັກໜຶ່ງຫ້ອງ ພ້ອມທັງມີລະບຽງອ້ອມຮອບສາ ມາດເບິງວິວທິວທັດສະລອຍນໍ້າໄດ້, ໃຫ້ບໍລິການ ອາຫານລາວ ແບບດັ້ງ ເດີມຈາກຫຼວງພະບາງລວມທັງອາຫານຕາເວັນຕົກ ຊັ້ນດີ ເຊັ່ນ: ອົບປາເຊລ ມອນ (baked salmon), ຂາເປັດ ກົງຟິດ (duck leg confit), ຕຸນໄກ່ (coq au vin), ຊີ້ນເກາະຊັບ ຫລື ສະເຕັກກະດູກຂ້າງ. ພໍ່ຄົວ ພິດທະຍາ ເລືອກວັດຖຸດິບສົດໃໝ່ຈາກ ຕະຫຼາດໃນຫຼວງພະບາງທຸກໆເຊົ້າ ເພື່ອ ປຸງແຕ່ງອາຫານທີ່ແຊບທີ່ສຸດ ແລະ ພ້ອມທີ່ຈະພາແຂກເຂົ້າໄປສູ່ຈິນ

Those who prefer to laze around and splash about in the swimming pool, huge elephant canopies are waiting for them to shade them from the sun.

Wherever they are, guests are looked after, I would even say pampered efficiently but discreetly. Luang Say Residence is the epitome of past elegance and luxury.

ຕະນາການແຫ່ງການປຸງແຕ່ງອາຫານ. ພຽງແຕ່ຖາມຜູ້ອໍານວຍການ ຝ່າຍອາຫານ ແລະ ເຄື່ອງດື່ມ ຜູ້ໜຸ່ມນ້ອຍ ເອີດູອາດ ດໍ (Edouard Dore). ແລະ ສໍາລັບຜູ້ທີ່ຢາກມາທ່ຽວວັດວາອາຮາມຢູ່ ຫຼວງພະ ບາງ ແລະ ນໍ້າຕົກ ແລະ ບໍ່ມີ ເວລານັ່ງຮັບປະທານອາຫານ, ພໍ່ຄົວເຮົາ ໄດ້ຈັດກຽມເບີເກີ ແລະ ແຊນວິດ ສົດໃໝ່ໄວ້ເພື່ອໃຫ້ບໍລິການ. ສໍາລັບບັນດາທ່ານຜູ້ທີ່ຕ້ອງ ການພັກຜ່ອນ ແລະ ຫຼີ້ນ ນໍ້າຢູ່ສະລອຍ ນໍ້າ, ກັນສາດຂະໜາດໃຫ່ຍກໍາລັງລໍຖ້າທ່ານເພື່ອ ບັງແສງແດດ. ບໍ່ວ່າຈະຢູ່ບ່ອນໃດ, ແຂກທີ່ມາພັກຈະໄດ້ຮັບການເບິ່ງແຍງ, ຂ້າພະ ເຈົ້າເວົ້າໄດ້ວ່າ ແຂກຈະໄດ້ຮັບການເອົາໃຈໃສ່ຢ່າງມີປະສິດທິພາບ. ຕຳນັກຫລວງໄຊ ເວົ້າໄດ້ວ່າເປັນສິ່ງ ທີ່ດີເລີດຂອງ ຄວາມສະຫງ່າງາມ ແລະ ຫລູຫລາໃນອະດີດ.

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Journey into the Heartland

Essay on the Archeology, History, and Revival of Laos Written and photographed by Xaixana Champanakone Beginning in 1964 an epic battle for the independence of Laos raged across the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khouang province in upper central Laos and Samneua and Viengxay to the northeast in Houaphan province near the Vietnamese border. The ‘Pathet Lao’, which would eventually establish the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (Lao PDR), fought from their headquarters in the Caves of Viengxay until their final victory in 1973.

This region is bisected by Route 7 and Route 6, along which we traveled to record (in five parts) the changes in the intervening 38 years. I made the same journey 10 years ago in the company of SEA-Write Award winning author Mr. Chanthy Deuansavanh who chronicled the Making of Modern Laos while living, and starting his family, in the Caves of Viengxay.

Over a period of nine years the cave dwelling population of some 23,000 people was subjected to daily, at times nonstop, aerial bombardment which saw the highest tonnage of bombs per square kilometer dropped on Laos in world history. Peace has returned; scars still run deep today - wherever we go.

ການເດີນທາງສູ່ ຫົວໃຈຂອງປະເທດ ບົດຄວາມກ່ຽວກັບໂບຮານນະຄະດີ, ປະຫວັດສາດ ແລະ ການຟື້ນຟູປະເທດຂອງ ສປປ ລາວ

ຂຽນ ແລະ ຖ່າຍຮູບໂດຍ ໄຊຊະນະ ຈໍາປານະຄອນ ເລີ່ມຕົ້ນໃນປີ 1964 ການຕໍ່ສູ້ທີ່ດົນນານເພື່ອເອກະລາດຂອງ ປະເທດລາວ ໄດ້ກໍຂະບວນຂຶ້ນຢູ່ທົ່ວທົ່ງໄຫຫີນ ພາກເໜືອຂອງລາວ (ແຂວງຊຽງຂວາງ), ຊໍາເໜືອ ແລະ ວຽງໄຊ, ສະຖານທີ່ກໍາເນີດຂອງ ສປປ ລາວ, (ແຂວງຫົວພັນ) ໃກ້ກັບຊາຍແດນ ຫວຽດນາມ ໃນ ພາກເໜືອ. ຝ່າຍປະເທດລາວໄດ້ຕໍ່ສູ້ ຈາກຖານທີ່ໝັ້ນໃນຖໍ້າ ເມືອງ ວຽງໄຊ ຈົນໄດ້ຮັບໄຊຊະນະ ຂັ້ນສຸດທ້າຍ ໃນປີ 1973. ເຂດນີ້ຖືກຕັດຜ່ານໂດຍເສັ້ນທາງເລກທີ 7 ແລະ ເລກທີ 6 ຕາມເສັ້ນ ທາງ ທີ່ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເດີນທາງໄປເພື່ອບັນທຶກ (ໃນບົດຄວາມ 5 ບົດ) ການປ່ຽນແປງຕະຫລອດໄລຍະເວລາ 38 ປີ. ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເດີນທາງ ໄປຕາມເສັ້ນທາງດຽວກັນ ກັບນັກຂຽນຜູ້ທີ່ໄດ້ຮັບລາງວັນ ຊີໄຣທ໌ ເມື່ອ 10 ປີກ່ອນ (SEA-Write Award winning author) ທ່ານ ຈັນທີ ເດືອນສະຫວັນ ຜູ້ທີ່ໄດ້ບັນທຶກກ່ຽວກັບການສ້າງສາພັດທະນາປະເທດ ລາວ ໃຫ້ມີຄວາມຈະເລີນກ້າວໜ້າ ໃນຂະນະທີ່ໃຊ້ຊີວິດຢູ່ ແລະ ສ້າງຄອບຄົວ ໃນຖໍ້າເມືອງວຽງໄຊ. ຜ່ານຕະຫລອດໄລຍະເວລາກວ່າ 9 ປີ ປະຊາຊົນທີ່ອາໄສໃນຖໍ້າ 23.000 ຄົນ ຖືກໂຈມ ຕີດ້ວຍການຖີ້ມລະເບີດ ແບບບໍ່ຢຸດຢ່ອນ ເຊິ່ງໄດ້ ກາຍເປັນເຂດທີ່ມີການ ຖີ້ມລະເບີດສູງສຸດໃນ ລາວຕໍ່ແມັດກາເລ ໃນປະຫວັດສາດໂລກ. ສັນ ຕິພາບໄດ້ກັບຄືນມາ; ຮອຍບາດແຜຍັງຝັງ ເລິກໃນ ທຸກມື້ນີ້ - ທຸກບ່ອນທີ່ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ເດີນທາງໄປ.

very second oldest son, and Toh, a Green Disco by my close friends Inpome, Mr. Chanthy’s very our and ry), histo t recen into On this return journey I am accompanied back journey both, this would become an eye-opening to be a most ed prov Chai . back and staffer sent on this history study tour (for there y safel us put at our disposal by Europcar to get personable driver Chai with a car kindly t to Phonsavanh four times per week. trip you might as well take Lao Airlines’ fligh the ten shor To e. guid and r drive nt compete ຫວັນ, ແລະໂຕ້ ເຊິ່ງເປັນພະນັກງານຂອງ , ລູກຊາຍຄົນທີສອງຂອງທ່ານຈັນທີ ເດືອນສະ ມ ພົ ນ ອິ າ ົ້ ພະເຈ າ ້ ຂອງຂ ດ ະນິ ສ ່ ູ ໝ ມີ ບ າກັ ຕອນເດີນທາງຂ ທາງເປີດຫູເປີດຕາກັບໄປສູ່ປະຫວັດສາດ), ສະນະກ່ຽວກັບປະຫວັດສາດ (ນີ​ີ້ເປັນການເດີນ ດ ັ ມາທ ງ ສົ່ ກ ື ຖ ທີ່ y) over Disc en (Gre ີ ຣ ເວີ ກຣີນດີສຄັຟ r) ທີ່ພາພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເດີນ ທາງໄປ ກໍ່ມີພາຫະນະເດີນທາງຈາກ ຢູໂຣຄາ (Europca ແລະ ນ ກັ ມານໍາ ໃຈ າ ່ ວ ຊື່ ວ ນຕົ ວ ສ່ ດ ລົ ບ ັ ງານຂ ແລະພະນັກ າທ່ານຕ້ອງການປະຫຍັດເວລາທ່ານກໍ່ສາ ່ຽວທີ່ມີຄວາມສາມາດທີ່ສຸດຄົນໜຶ່ງ. ນອກນັ້ນຖ້ ນໍາທ ນ ຄົ ແລະ ດ ລົ ບ ຂັ ນ ຄົ ນ ເປັ ໃຈ ໄພ. ງປອດ ຫັ້ນມາໜີ້ຢ່າ ກອາທິດ. ວຽງຈັນ-ຊຽງຂວາງ ຊຶ່ງອອກເດີນທາງ 4 ຄັ້ງທຸ ມາດນຳໃຊ້ການບໍລິການຂອງສາຍການບິນລາວ

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Photo courtesy of KPL

Part Two: The Secret War and the Plain of Jars

ພາກທີສອງ: ສົງຄາມປິດລັບ ແລະ ທົ່ງໄຫຫີນ

“Who controls the Plain of Jars controls Indochina” (quote assigned to Genghis Khan, an early intruder). That explains the ferocious, in this case clandestine, battle for this vast piece of real estate, and the UXO – unexploded ordnances left behind, killing and maiming villagers to this day.

“ຜູ້ໃດຄວບຄຸມທົ່ງໄຫຫີນກໍ່ສາມາດຄວບຄຸມອິນໂດຈີນ” ສົມທຽບ (ຄໍາເວົ້າຂອງ ເຈັງກີສ ຄານ, ຂຸນເສິກໃນອາດີດ). ສິ່ງນີ້ບົ່ງບອກເຖິງຄວາມໂຫດຮ້າຍ, ເຊິ່ງເກີດຂຶ້ນແບບປິດລັບ, ການສູ້ຮົບເພື່ອຜືນແຜນດິນອັນກ້ວາງໃຫຍ່ ແລະ ລູ ກ ລະເບີ ດ ທີ່ ຍັ ງ ບໍ່ ທັ ນ ແຕກເປັ ນ ຮ່ ອ ງຮອຍສ້ າ ງໂທດກຳປະໄວ້ ຂ້ າ ງຫລັ ງ , ທໍາລາຍຊີວິດ ແລະເຮັດໃຫ້ຊາວບ້ານເສຍອົງຄະຈົນມາຮອດທຸກມື້ນີ້.

At the end of this Secret War in Laos, the New York Times observed in 1973 that “some 350,000 men, women and children have been killed and a tenth of the population of three million uprooted.”

ໃນຕອນທ້າຍຂອງສົງຄາມປິດລັບຢູ່ປະເທດລາວ, ໜັງສືພິມ ນິວຢອກທາມສ ໄດ້ລາຍງານໃນປີ 1973 ວ່າ “ປະຊາຊົນທັງຜູ້ຊາຍ, ຜູ້ຍິງ ແລະ ເດັກນ້ອຍ ປະມານ 350,000 ຄົນໄດ້ຖືກເສຍຊີວິດ ແລະ ເທົ່າກັບໜຶ່ງສ່ວນສິບຂອງປະ ຊາກອນສາມລ້ານຄົນໄດ້ຖືກຖອນຮາກຖອນໂຄນ.”

From 1964 to 1973 Laos was a battlefield that served as a hidden sideshow to the ‘real’ war in Vietnam which enjoyed enormous TV coverage; progress was measured by daily body-counts. Both the USA and North Vietnam acted in direct contravention of the Geneva Accord of 1962, which recognized the neutrality of Laos and forbade the presence of all foreign military personnel. The war was so secret that the name of the country was banished from all communications; the war that wasn’t. To evade the Geneva agreement CIA agents were placed in foreign aid posts and airforce officers were converted into civil pilots who made up the infamous Air America (the opium smuggled out of Laos surfaced in Saigon as heroin to poison the GI kids). These ‘civilians’, propping up a very reluctant and deeply divided Royal Lao (central) Government from their military bases in Thailand, had their ‘commercial airline’ carry out massive bombing raids targeting the entire countryside in support of their ethnic auxiliary troops, most of them Hmong. It was this ragtag outfit that did the fighting on the ground against the Pathet Lao for their paymasters in the sky. And so it came about that they waged war against their own people, those among them who had chosen to join the Pathet Lao. These raids were later followed by fighter jets that focused on towns and villages all over. It

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ໃນປີ 1964 ຫາ 1973 ລາວເປັນສະໜາມຮົບປິດລັບພາຍໃຕ້ເງົາ ສົງຄາມອັນແທ້ຈິງໃນຫວຽດນາມ ເຊິ່ງມີການສະເໜີຂ່າວຢ່າງກ້ວາງຂວາງ; ໝາກຜົນແຫ່ງການຕໍ່ສູ້ໄດ້ປະກົດຂຶ້ນ ເມື່ອມີການເຊັນສົນທິສັນ ຍາເຈນນິວາ ໃນປີ 1962, ທີ່ໄດ້ຮັບຮູ້ຄວາມເປັນກາງຂອງ ປະເທດລາວ ແລະ ບໍ່ຍອມ ຮັ ບ ກ ອ ງ ກໍ າ ລັ ງ ຕ່ າ ງ ປ ະ ເ ທ ດ ປ ະ ຈໍ າ ກ າ ນ ຢູ່ ໃ ນ ປ ະ ເ ທ ດ . ສົ ງ ຄ າ ມ ເ ກີ ດ ຂຶ້ ນ ແບບປິ ດ ລັ ບ ທີ່ ສຸ ດ ຈົ ນ ບໍ່ ມີ ຊື່ ປ ະເທດຖື ກ ເຜີ ຍ ແຜອອກໃນທຸ ກ ໆຮູ ບ ແບບການສື່ສານ; ສົ່ງຄາມທີ່ບໍ່ແມ່ນສົ່ງຄາມ. ເພື່ອຫລີກລ່ຽງການປະຕິບັດ ຕາມສົນທິສັນຍາ ເຈົ້າໜ້າທີ່ ຊີໄອເອ ໄດ້ຖືກມອບ ໝາຍໃຫ້ປະຕິບັດພາລະກິດ ໃນຮູບແບບການຊ່ວຍ ເຫລືອຕ່າງປະເທດ ແລະ ເຈົ້າໜ້າທີ່ການບິນ ເຊິ່ງຕໍ່ ມາໄດ້ ກ າຍເປັ ນ ນັ ກ ບິ ນ ພົ ນ ລະເຮື ອ ນສ້ າ ງຊື່ ສ ຽງ ອັ ນ ໂ ດ ງ ດັ ງ ໃ ຫ້ ແ ກ່ ສ າ ຍ ກ າ ນ ບິ ນ ອ າ ເ ມ ລິ ກ າ (ລັກລອບຂົນຢາຝິ່ນອອກຈາກລາວ ແປຮູບ ເປັນເຮ ໂລອິນ ໃນໄຊງ່ອນເພື່ອນໍາໄປເບື່ອເມົາ ພວກເດັກ ນ້ອຍ GI). ‘ພົນລະເຮືອນ’ ເລົ່ານີ້, ໄດ້ແຍກລັດຖະ ບານຣາສອານາຈັກ (ລັດຖະບານກາງ) ອອກຈາກ ຖານທີ່ໝັ້ນທະຫານຢູ່ປະເທດໄທ, ມີສາຍການບິນ ຂອງຕົ ວ ເອງເພື່ ອ ຂົ ນ ລູ ກ ລະເບີ ດ ຈໍ າ ນວນມະຫາ ສານໂຈມຕີ ໂ ດຍເລັ ງ ໃສ່ ເ ຂດຊົ ນ ນະບົ ດ ທັ ງ ໝົ ດ ເພື່ອສະໜັບສະໜູນ ກອງກໍາລັງທະຫານຂອງ ພວກ ເຂົາ, ກອງກໍາລັງຊົນເຜົ່າສ່ວນນ້ອຍທີ່ໄດ້ ຮັບການ ຝຶກຝົນ, ເຊິ່ງສ່ວນຫລາຍແມ່ນມົ້ງ (ເປັນຊົນເຜົ່າຂະ ໜາດໃຫ່ຍໃນຂົງເຂດນີ້). ຊົນເຜົ່ານີ້ເຮັດການຕໍ່ສູ້ກັບຝ່າຍປະເທດລາວແທນ ເຈົ້ານາຍຢູ່ເທິງຟ້າ.ເຖິງຢ່າງ ໃດກໍ່ຕາມ,ເປັນທີ່ຮູ້ກັນ ວ່ າ ຝ່ າ ຍ ປ ະ ເ ທ ດ ລ າ ວ ກໍ່ ມີ ພັ ນ ທ ະ ມິ ດ ເ ຜົ່ າ

became a free-fire zone for those patrolling the skies to vent their anger. Observing the uselessness of their technical all-mightiness they targeted the civilian population out of spite to alleviate their frustrations: the losers’ vengeful policy of Scorched and Poisoned Earth. In addition, saturation bombing against Pathet Lao strongholds was carried out, to no avail. Late in the war they even dropped ‘hot soup’ - that is, napalm - on enemy positions, rolling barrels out of the rear of their planes. By 1973 every town in Xieng Khouang had been completely destroyed, like Muang Khoun. Most of the population had fled and lived a subterranean existence in tunnels and caves like Tham Phiu (we shall visit both locations), or had been removed forcibly to deprive the other side of valuable manpower.

What was the strategic value of indiscriminately bombing one of the poorest countries in the world, mostly inhabited by subsistence farmers and their domestic animals?

Photo courtesy of KPL

ມົ້ງທີ່ໜຽວແໜ້ນເຊັ່ນກັນ. ນອກຈາກການໂຈມຕີເຫຼົ່ານີ້ແລ້ວ ທີ່ ສຸ່ມໃສ່ແຕ່ຕົວ Everywhere we travel the ambulance-white MAG (Mine Advisory ເມືອງ ແລະ ໝູ່ບ້ານທັງໝົດ. ມັນໄດ້ ກາຍເປັນເຂດສູ້ຮົບເສລີ ສໍາລັບພວກ Group) trucks stick out like sore thumbs. Mine clearing has been ຂີ່ຍົນ ເລາະກວດກາຢູ່ເທິງຟ້າ ລະບາຍຄວາມຄຽດແຄ້ນ. ເຫັນໄດ້ເຖິງຄວາມ carried out uninterrupted for the past 27 years, yet there is no end ໄຮ້ປະໂຫຍດຂອງການມີອໍານາດທາງດ້ານເຕັກນິກ ທັງໝົດ ພວກເຂົາເລັ່ງເປົ້າ in sight, no end for the population at large living in fear, no end to ໃສ່ ບັນດາປະຊາຊົນເພື່ອບັນເທົາຄວາມຜິດຫວັງຂອງພວກເຂົາ: ນະໂຍບາຍ limbs being blown off: ຄຽດແຄ້ນ ຂອງພວກປະລາໄຊ ເພື່ອການທໍາລາຍລ້າງ ແລະ ເບືອໂລກ ດ້ວຍ • Laos is the most heavily bombed country, per capita, in hisຢາພິດ. ຍິ່ງໄປກວ່ານັ້ນ, ໄດ້ມີການຖີ້ມລະເບີດ ເປັນວົງກ້ວາງແບບບໍ່ມີເປົ້າ tory. With more than 580,000 bombing missions, one every ໝາຍ ໃສ່ຖານທີ່ໝັ້ນຂອງຝ່າຍປະເທດລາວ. ໃນຕອນປາຍຂອງສົງຄາມ ພວກ eight minutes for nine years, over 2 million tons of ordnance ເຂົາຍິ່ງໄດ້ຖີ້ມ ‘ແກງຮ້ອນ’ - ທີ່ເອີ້ນກັນ were dropped on Laos ວ່າລະເບີດໄຟລະເບີດນາປາມ - ໃສ່ ແຜນທີ ຜ ່ ນ ົ ກະທົ ບ ຈາກລະເບີ ດ ບໍ ທ ່ ນ ັ ແຕກ ;P 'mv' between 1964 and 1973 sq;g,nv' ທີ່ຕັ້ງຝ່າຍກົງກັນຂ້າມ, ກິ້ງຖັງນໍ້າມັນ ow 3r – roughly 10 tons of ຈາກດ້ານຫລັງຍົນ. ມາຮອດປີ 1973 bombs for every square ທຸ ກ ໆຕົ ວ ເມື ອ ງຢູ່ ຊ ຽງຂວາງໄດ້ ຖື ກ kilometer, or more than ທໍາລາຍຢ່າງຮາບຄາບເຊັ່ນ: ເມືອງ f 6 half a ton for every man, r6d ຄຳ.ປະຊາຊົ ນ ສ່ ວ ນໃຫ່ ຍ ໄດ້ ຫຼົ ບ woman and child. cxd ໜີ ແລະ ອາໄສຢູ່ໃນຮູແລະຖໍ້າ ເຊັ່ນ: • Cluster submunitions or ຖໍ້າປິວ (ພວກເຮົາຄວນໄປທ່ຽວຊົມ ‘bombies’ are the most ທັງສອງສະຖານທີ່), ຫລື ຖືກບັງຄັບ common form of UXO 76o zkwໃຫ້ ອົ ບ ພະຍົ ກ ອອກໄປດ້ ວ ຍກໍ າ ລັ ງ remaining. More than ເພື່ອ ປຸ້ນ ເອົ າ ກໍ າ ລັ ງ ຄົ ນ ອັ ນ ມີ ຄ່າ ອີ ກ 270 million of those \v d.\ ດ້ານໜຶ່ງອອກໄປ. j were dropped saturatmjk3m, ing the country’s eastແນະນຳ w-lq,[6o ແມ່ ນ ຫຍັ ງ ເປັ ນ ຄຸ ນ ຄ່ າ ທາງຍຸ ດ ທະ ເສນແບ່ງເມືອງ ern regions, from north ລູກລະເບີດ [=]y7ao ສາດຂອງການຖີ້ ມ ລະເບີ ດ ແບບບໍ່ ແມ່ນ້ຳ , Iq to south. Thirty percent ເລືອກສະຖານທີ່ ໃສ່ໜຶ່ງໃນປະເທດ failed to detonate leavທີ ່ ທ ຸ ກ ຍາກທີ ່ ສ ຸດໃນໂລກ, ທີ່ສ່ວນໃຫຍ່ມີແຕ່ຊາວ ing 90,000 of them ‘live’ in the ground. ນາຜູ ຫ ້ າລ້ ຽ ງຊີ ບ ແລະ ສັດລ້ຽງທ້ອງຖິ່ນອາໄສຢູ່?

• Some 20,000 people have been killed or injured as a result of UXO accidents ທຸກໆບ່ອນທີ່ ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເດີນທາງໄປ ລົດ during the post‐war period from 1974 ເກັບກູ້ສີຂາວຂອງ ອົງການ MAG (Mine ‐ 2008.

Advisory Group) ເຫັນໄດ້ຢ່າງໂດດເດັ່ນ. ການເກັບກູ້ລະເບີດໄດ້ຖືກດໍາ ເນີນຢ່າງບໍ່ຢຸດຢ່ອນ ເປັນເວລາ 27 ປີຜ່ານມາແລ້ວ, ແຕ່ເບິ່ງ ບໍ່ເຫັນວ່າ ຈະສໍາເລັດເສັດສິ້ນ, ປະຊາຊົນດໍາ ລົງຊີວິດໃນ ຄວາມຢ້ານກວ່າບໍ່ມີມື້ສິ້ນສຸດ, ບໍ່ມີມື້ລະເບີດຢຸດ ແຕກຍ້ອນວ່າ: Photo by MAG 31 103?15'0"E

20?0'0"N

20?0'0"N

103?30'0"E

-e.8h

103?0'0"E

7e

104?0'0"E

19?45'0"N

19?45'0"N

r676o

s^;' rt[k '

103?45'0"E

sq;rao

|v 'cI f

102?45'0"E

-P'0;k'

19?30'0"N

19?30'0"N

104?0'0"E

102?45'0"E

19?15'0"N

19?15'0"N

104?0'0"E

103?0'0"E

103?30'0"E

104?15'0"E

r6o

103?15'0"E

103?45'0"E

19?0'0"N

19?0'0"N

104?15'0"E

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ວັນທີສ້າງແຜນທີ່ 03-03-2008

ຊອກຫາຂໍ້ມູນເພີ້ມເຕີມທີ່ www.nra.gov.la

1 centimeter equals 4.802594 kilometers

!

104?0'0"E

Photo by MAG In addition, large tracts of land retain to this day high levels of acidity because defoliants and herbicides (collectively known to the locals as ‘yellow rain’ for their distinctive colour) were also sprayed across forests, fields and grazing grounds, poisoning crops and cattle, and rendering the water system unusable even for irrigation.

MAG is an international humanitarian organization and UXO-Lao is a government agency charged with cleaning up the infested countryside, thousands and thousands of square kilometers across mountains, valleys, paddy fields, villages and destroyed towns. Remnants are everywhere, wherever you track in the jungle, walk along the fields, plow the soil, dig a hole - everywhere.

Watch your step when you visit the Jar sites, the de-mined footpaths are clearly indicated by white marker stones. Do not step across!

Even to you, the tourist today, these marker stones serve as an omnipresent reminder of the horror dropped from the sky onto a civilian population who only want to sow and harvest their fields to live. You, the tourist, go home, the locals remain here to cope, every day, today.

This shameful ‘war of hear-say’, here we have the secret in full view, naked, exposed - stand accused, repent. NO, the horror continues unabated to this day, only the theatre has moved location; other peoples are now fed to the same war machine.

We leave the asphalt road halfway to Muang Khoun and turn west onto a well maintained dirt road that leads to the Plain of Jars, sites 2 & 3. We continue on our way for another 20 – 30 km to reach the War Spoon Village of Ban Napia. The track takes us deep into the undulating countryside, patched with paddy fields and their straight lines of young rice shoots planted in precise intervals, millions of rows, back-breaking labour. Ad-

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• ລາວເປັນປະເທດທີ່ຖືກຖີ້ມລະເບີດຕໍ່ຫົວຄົນໜັກໜ່ວງທີ່ສຸດໃນປະຫວັດ ສາດ. ມີການຖີ້ມລະເບີດຫລາຍກ່ວາ 580,000 ຄັ້ງ, ໜຶ່ງຄັ້ງທຸກໆ 8 ນາທີ ເປັນເວລາ 9 ປີ, ລູກລະເບີດຫລາຍກ່ວາສອງລ້ານໂຕນຖືກຖີ້ມໃນລະຫ່ວາງ ປີ 1964 ແລະ 1973 – ປະມານ 10 ໂຕນຕໍ່ທຸກໆ ກິໂລແມັດມົນທົນ, ຫລື ຫລາຍກ່ວາເຄິງໂຕນ ຕໍ່ທຸກໆຜູ້ຊາຍ, ຜູ້ຍິງ ແລະ ເດັກນ້ອຍ.

• ລູກລະເບີດບອມບີ້ເປັນລູກລະ ເບີດທີ່ຍັງ ຕົກຄ້າງຫຼາຍທີ່ສຸດ. ຫລາຍ ກ່ວາ 270 ລ້ານ ລູກຖືກຖີ້ມເດຍລະດາດຢາຍຢູ່ທົ່ວພາກຕາເວັນອອກຂອງ ປະເທດ, ແຕ່ເໜືອ ຮອດໃຕ້. ສາມສິບສ່ວນຮ້ອຍຍັງບໍ່ ໄດ້ແຕກ ເຮັດໃຫ້ ຍັງມີ 90,000 ລູກຍັງບໍ່ທັນແຕກຢູ່ພື້ນດິນ ແລະ ກຽມພ້ອມແຕກທຸກເວລາ ເມື່ອມີສິ່ງ ມາແຕະຕ້ອງ.

• ປະຊາຊົນປະມານ 20,000 ຄົນຖືກເສຍຊີວິດ ຫລື ໄດ້ຮັບ ບາດເຈັບຍ້ອນ ອຸບັດເຫດຈາກລູກລະເບີດບໍ່ທັນແຕກໃນໄລຍະຫລັງສົງຄາມແຕ່ປີ 1974 ຫາ 2008. ນອກຈາກນີ້, ຍັງມີພື້ນທີ່ອັນກ້ວາງໃຫ່ຍ ທີ່ຍັງມີ ຄວາມເປັນກົດໃນລະດັບສູງ ຍ້ອນສານເຄມີ ຂ້າຫຍ້າ ດີໂຟລຽນສ (defoliants) ແລະ ເຮີບິຊາຍສ (herbicides) (ຮູ້ກັນໂດຍທົ່ວໄປໃນທ້ອງຖີ່ນວ່າ ‘ຝົນເຫລືອງ’) ໄດ້ຖືກ ສີດໃສ່ທົ່ວປ່າ, ທົ່ງນາ ແລະ ພື້ນຫຍ້າ, ເບືອເຄື່ອງປູກ ແລະ ບັນດາ ສັດລ້ຽງ ແລະ ເຮັດໃຫ້ລະບົບນໍ້າໃຊ້ການບໍ່ໄດ້ ໂດຍສະເພາະເພື່ອຊົນລະປະທານ. ອົງການແມັກ (MAG) ແມ່ນອົງການສາກົນ ແລະ ອົງການຍູເອັກໂອ-ລາວ (UXO-Lao) ແມ່ນອົງການລັດຖະບານທີ່ຮັບຜິດຊອບວຽກງານເກັບກູ້ລະ ເບີດຢູ່ເຂດຊົນນະບົດ, ເປັນພັນກິໂລແມັດມົນທົນຜ່ານພູເຂົາ,ທົ່ງນາ, ໝູ່ ບ້ານ ແລະ ເມືອງທີ່ຖືກທໍາລາຍ. ຍັງມີຮອ່ງຮອຍຫລົງເຫລືອຢູ່ທຸກໆຫົນແຫ່ງ, ບໍ່ວ່າຈະຍ່າງໄປທາງໃດຢູ່ໃນປ່າ, ຍ່າງໄປຕາມທົ່ງໄຮ່ ທົ່ງນາ, ຂຸດຂີ້ດິນ, ຂຸດ ຂຸມ - ທຸກໆບ່ອນ. ລະວັງ ບາດກ້າວຂອງທ່ານເມື່ອ ທ່ານໄປທ່ຽວຊົມໄຫຫີນ, ບ່ອນທີ່ມລ ີ ະເບີດ ມີເຄື່ອງໝາຍສີຂາວຊັດເຈນຢູຫ ່ ນ ີ ບອກໄວ້. ລະວັງຢ່າຢຽບ! ປະຈຸບັນເຄື່ອງໝາຍເລົ່ານີ້ ໃຊ້ເປັນສິ່ງເຕືອນໃຈເຖິງການຖີ້ມລະເບີທີ່ໜ້າ ຢ້ານກວາຈາກເທິງຟ້າ ໃສ່ປະຊາຊົນຜູ້ທີ່ຕ້ອງການພຽງ ແຕ່ປູກຝັງ ແລະ ເກັບກ່ຽວຢູ່ຕາມທົ່ງໄຮ່ ທົ່ງນາເພື່ອດໍາລົງຊີວິດ. ພວກທ່ານ, ນັກ ທ່ອງທ່ຽວ, ກັບບ້ານໄປແລ້ວ, ມີແຕ່ປະຊາ ຊົນທ້ອງຖີ່ນທີ່ຕ້ອງປະເຊີນກັບສິ່ງເຫຼົ່ານີ້ ທຸກໆມື້. ສົງຄາມທີ່ໜ້າລະອາຍນີ້, ພວກຂ້າ ພະ ເຈົ້າມີຄວາມລັບທີ່ເຕັມໄປດ້ວຍທັດສະນະທີ່ເປີດ ແປນ - ຍອມຮັບຕໍ່ການກ່າວໂທດ, ຮູ້ສຶກເສຍ ໃຈ. ບໍ່, ຄວາມໜ້າຢ້ານກ່ວາຍັງສືບຕໍ່ຈົນມາຮອດ ປະຈຸບັນນີ້, ມີພຽງແຕ່ໂຮງໜັງທີ່ຍ້າຍສະຖານທີ່; ໃນປະຈຸ ບັ ນ ຄົ ນ ອື່ ນ ໆຍັ ງ ຖື ກ ປ້ ອ ນດ້ ວ ຍກົ ນ ໄກ ສົງຄາມແບບດຽວກັນ. ພວກຂ້ າ ພະເຈົ້ າ ຂັ ບ ລົ ດ ໄປຮອດເຄິ່ ງ ທາງຢາງ ໝາກຕອຍ ເພື່ອໄປ ເມືອງຄູນ ແລະ ລ້ຽວໄປ ທາງຕາເວັນຕົກ ເພື່ອໄປທົ່ງໄຫຫີນ, ທົ່ງທີ 2 ແລະ ທີ 3. ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າສືບຕໍ່ເດີນທາງໄປອີກປະມານ 20–30 ກິໂລແມັດ ໄປຮອດໝູ່ ບ້ານທີ່ເຮັດບ່ວງ ຈາກສົງຄາມ ບ້ານນາເປຍ. ລົດກະບະພາພວກ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເຂົ້າໄປເລິກໃນເຂດຊົນນະບົດ, ມີແຕ່ ທົ່ງໄຮ່ທົ່ງນາ ແລະ ຖັນແຖວຕົ້ນເຂົ້າອ່ອນລຽນ ກັນເປັນສາຍສຸດສາຍຕາ, ເບິ່ງແລ້ວຄິດເຫັນຊາວ

joining meadows climb up to reach the dark green pine forests of the hills. We are passing through lovely villages with people going about life in peace; at least in the villages safety has returned.

In Ban Napia the artisans have perfected simple smelters to melt down the aluminum aviation fuel tanks which were dropped after a completed bombing run. As a new form of cottage industry this material is then formed into spoons which are widely used in restaurants in Phonsavanh. In June (planting season) and October (harvesting season) you won’t find anybody around because all hands are needed in the fields but this trip into deep country is beautiful at any time.

ນາທີ່ຕ້ອງເຮັດວຽກໜັກ. ທົ່ງຫຍ້າທາງຂ້າງປີນໄຕ່ຈົນຮອດເນີນພູປາ່ ແປກ ສີຂຽວເຂັ້ມ. ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເດີນທາງຜ່ານບັນດາໝູບ ່ າ້ ນທີ່ສວຍງາມມີປະຊາ ຊົນດໍາລົງຊີວິດຢູ່ຢ່າງສະຫງົບສຸກ;ຢ່າງໜ້ອຍຄວາມປອດໄພໄດ້ກັບຄືນມາ ສູ່ໝູ່ບ້ານແລ້ວ.ຢູ່ບ້ານນາ ເປຍ ນາຍຊ່າງໄດ້ສ້າງເຕົາຫລອມອາລູມິນຽມທີ່ ໄດ້ຈາກຖັງນໍ້າມັນຍົນ ເຊິ່ງຖືກຖີ້ມໄວ້ຫລັງຈາກການຖີ້ມລະເບີດແບບງ່າຍ ດາຍ. ດ້ວຍ ທຸລະກິດຄອບຄົວຮູບແບບໃໝ່, ຕໍ່ມາ ກໍ່ ໄ ດ້ ມີ ກ າ ນ ຜ ະ ລິ ດ ບ່ ວ ງ ຈ າ ກ ວັ ດ ຖຸ ດັ່ ງ ກ່ າ ວເຊິ່ ງ ໄດ້ ຖື ກ ນໍ າ ໃຊ້ ກັ ນ ຢ່ າ ງແຜ່ ຫ ລາຍຕາມ ຮ້ າ ນ ອ າ ຫ າ ນ ໃ ນ ເ ມື ອ ງ ໂ ພ ນ ສ ະ ຫ ວັ ນ . ໃນເດືອນມິຖຸນາ (ລະດູປູກຝັງ) ແລະ ເດືອນ ຕຸລາ (ລະດູເກັບກ່ຽວ) ທ່ານຈະຫາໃຜ ບໍ່ເຫັນ ເພາະວ່ າ ທຸ ກ ໆຄົ ນ ລົ ງ ໄປເຮັ ດ ວຽກຢູ່ ທົ່ ງ ໄຮ່ ທົ່ ງ ນາ ແຕ່ການເດີນທາງເຂົ້າໄປສູ່ສອກ ຫລີກຂອງ ປະເທດຄັ້ງນີ້ມີຄວາມສວຍງາມ ຕະຫລອດເວລາ.

We turn back to visit the Jars at site 2.

All the numerous Plain of Jars sites are listed for nomination as another UNESCO World Heritage Site in Laos … BUT do not expect Stonehenge!

ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເດີນທາງກັບໄປເບິ່ງໄຫຫີນຢູ່ທົ່ງ ທີ 2. ທົ່ງໄຫຫີນທັງໝົດໄດ້ຖືກສະເໜີຊື່ເປັນສະ ຖານທີ່ມໍລະດົກໂລກຂອງ UNESCO ອີກແຫ່ງ ໜຶ່ງໃນລາວ… ແຕ່ບໍ່ຕ້ອງຫວັງໃຫ້ເປັນຄືອະນຸສາ ວະລີຫີນ ສໂຕນເຮນຈ!

The Plain of Jars is a megalithic archaeological landscape. Scattered across the Xieng Khouang plateau are thousands of massive stone jars. They appear in clusters from a few to several hundred at the lower foothills surrounding the central plain and upland valleys. Initial research in the early 1930s suggested that they are associated with prehistoric burial practices. Later excavation has supported this interpretation with the discovery of human remains, burial goods and ceramics. The Plain of Jars Civilisation is dated to the Iron Age (500 BCE to 500 CE) and is one of the most fascinating and important sites for studying Southeast Asian prehistory.

It has the potential to shed light on the relationship between increasingly complex societies and megalithic structures and to provide insight into the social organisation of Southeast Asia’s Iron Age communities.

ທົ່ ງໄ ຫຫີ ນເ ປັ ນເ ຂດບູ ຮ າ ນນະຄະດີ ທີ່ ກ້ ວ າ ງ ຂວາງ. ຢັ່ງຢາຍຢູ່ຕາມທົ່ງພຽງຊຽງຂວາງ ແມ່ນ ໄຫຫີນເປັນພັນໆໜ່ວຍ. ພວກມັນຢູ່ກັນ ເປັນຈຸ້ມ ນັບແຕ່ສອງສາມໜ່ວຍຫາຮ້ອຍ ໜ່ວຍຢູ່ຕາມຕີນ ພູອ້ອມຮອບໃຈກາງທົ່ງ ແລະ ຢູ່ເທິງເນີນພູ. ຈາກ ການສຶກສາໃນຕົ້ນປີ 1930 ບອກໃຫ້ຮູ້ວ່າໄຫຫີນ ເຫຼົ່ານີ້ກ່ຽວ ຂ້ອງກັບພິທີຝັງສົບໃນຍຸກກ່ອນປະ ຫວັດສາດ. ຕໍ່ມາໄດ້ມີການຄຸດຄົ້ນ ແລະ ໄດ້ພົບ ໂຄງກະດູກມະນຸດບູຮານ, ເຄື່ອງຂອງ ທີ່ໄດ້ຝັງມາ ນໍາ ເຊິ່ງໄດ້ສະໜັບສະໜູນທິດສະດີດັ່ງກ່າວນີ້. ຄວາມຈະເລີນຮຸ່ງເຮືອງໃນ ຍຸກສະໄໝທົ່ງໄຫຫີນ ແມ່ນຢູ່ໃນຍຸກເຫລັກ (500 ກ່ອນ ຄ.ສ. ຫາ ຄ.ສ.

500) ແລະ ເປັນສະຖານທີ່ໆມີຄວາມສໍາຄັນ ແລະ ໜ້າ ດຶງດູດສໍາລັບການສຶກສາກ່ຽວ ກັບຍຸກກ່ອນ ປະຫວັ ດ ສາດຂອງອາຊີ ຕ າເວັ ນ ອອກສຽງໃຕ້ . ມັ ນ ອາດສາມາດອະທິ ບ າຍໄດ້ ເ ຖິ ງ ສາຍພົ ວ ພັ ນ ລະຫ່ ວ າງການເຕີ ບ ໃຫ່ ຍ ຂະຫຍາຍຂອງສັ ງ ຄົ ມ ທີ່ສະຫຼັບຊັບຊ້ອນ ແລະ ໂຄງສ້າງຂອງຫີນ ແລະ ໃຫ້ຂໍ້ມູນກ່ຽວກັບໂຄງສ້າງສັງຄົມຂອງຊຸມຊົນໃນ ຍຸກເຫລັກຂອງເຂດອາຊີຕາເວັນອອກສຽງໃຕ້.

The origin and purpose of these Jars is ultimately shrouded in mystery, and may remain so, as perhaps it should. There is more, something other than their history or origin to capture your imagination.

ຕົ້ນກໍາເນີດ ແລະ ຈຸດປະສົງຂອງທົ່ງໄຫຫີນ ເຫຼົ່ານີ້ ຍັງບໍ່ທັນຮູ້ຈະແຈ້ງ ແລະ ອາດຈະຍັງ ເປັນແບບ ນີ້ຕໍ່ໄປ. ມີຫລາຍສິ່ງຫລາຍຢ່າງ ຫລາຍກວ່າປະ ຫວັດຄວາມເປັນມາ ຫລື ຕົ້ນ ກໍາເນີດຂອງໄຫຫີນ ເຫຼົ່ານີ້ ທີ່ໜ້າດືງດູດຈິນຕະນາການຂອງທ່ານ.

Leave site 1 to the tourist hordes. Choose a late afternoon to visit site 2. Should you still see tourists disturbing the peace of the place, don’t bother to approach any further; they’ll soon be gone with dinnertime beckoning. Their endless chattering would have shattered the solitude necessary to understand the place. If you are with friends kindly ask them for their understanding to keep quiet throughout your visit or else your entire effort to have finally reached the Jars after a long day’s ride winding around and across endless mountains on the road from Viangchan will be utterly wasted.

ປະທົ່ງໄຫຫີນທີ 1 ໄວ້ກບ ັ ກຸມ ່ ນັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວ. ໄປທ່ຽວ ຊົມທົ່ງໄຫຫີນທີ 2 ຕອນບ່າຍ. ຖ້າຫາກທ່ານຍັງ ເຫັນບັນດານັກທ່ອງທ່ຽວລົບກວນຄວາມສະຫງົບ ງຽບຂອງສະຖານທີ່, ບໍ່ຄວນເຂົ້າໄປລົບກວນເພີ່ມ ເຕີມ; ບໍ່ດົນກໍ່ຈະ ຫາຍໄປເມື່ອຮອດໂມງກິນ ເຂົ້າແລງ. ການໂອ້ລົມທີ່ບໍ່ມີມື້ສິ້ນສຸດຈະທໍາລາຍ ຄວາມໂດດດ່ຽວ ແລະ ເປັນສິ່ງຈໍາເປັນເພື່ອເຂົ້າໃຈ ສະຖານທີ່. ຖ້າຫາກທ່ານຢູ່ກັບໝູ່ເພື່ອນໃຫ້ບອກ ເຂົ າ ເຈົ້ າ ໃຫ້ ເ ວົ້ າ ຄ່ ອ ຍລົ ງ ຕະຫລອດການທ່ ຽ ວ ຊົມຫລື ຄວາມ ພະຍາຍາມທັງໝົດຂອງ ທ່ານ ເພື່ອເຂົ້າໄປທົ່ງໄຫຫີນຫລັງຈາກຂີ່ ລົດ ອ້ອມໄປ ວົນມາດົນນານ ແລະ ຂ້າມພູຫລາຍໜ່ວຍບໍ່ມີບ່ອນສິ້ນສຸດຕາມເສັ້ນທາງ ຈາກ ວຽງຈັນ ຈະເປັນການເສຍເວລາທີ່ສຸດ.

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With silence you can escape the here-and-now, the visual banality of the Jars; beyond their physical shape they transcend time and space.

The approaching dusk will veil the Jars with mystique that will reveal to you the mystery of their location, the deep spirituality of this place – communion with the Ancients.

Not for you to shout the often heard complaint “WHAT? That’s IT?!” Yes, that’s it! Visually that’s all the plains have to offer. It is up to you to find enlightenment, peace and joy in their spirituality, in the metaphor. Go find out. Silence … … and a moment of quiet reflection for these people here, on this plateau, who were made to walk through hell; it’s living history to them - repeated elsewhere today.

For those who wish to retrace the steps of our memorable eight day journey into archeology and history to witness the revival of a country, rent a car from Europcar and ask for Chai to drive and guide you, which he will do with great care.

The five parts of this journey are published in two months’ intervals. You will be able to read them upon publication at www.champaholiday.com or in one edition at www.tropicaldesignfz.net/essay.

Views expressed in this essay are those of the author and not necessarily those of other persons involved in its publication.

All rights reserved by the author.

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ທ່ າ ມກາງຄວາມສະຫງົ ບ ງຽບທ່ າ ນສາມາດຫຼຸ ດ ພົ້ ນ ອອກຈາກປະຈຸ ບັ ນ , ຮູບໄຫຫີນ ທໍາມະດາທີ່ເຫັນປະຈັກຕາ ນອກເໜືອຈາກ ຮູບຮ່າງພາຍນອກ ຂອງພວກມັນໄຫຫີນ ເຫຼົ່ານີ້ຢູ່ເໜືອການເວລາ ແລະ ສະຖານທີ່. ຕາເວັນ ໃກ້ຈະຕົກດິນປົກຫຸ້ມໄຫຫີນ ດ້ວຍ ບັນຍາກາດອັນລຶກລັບທີ່ຈະບອກໃຫ້ ທ່ານ ຮູ້ໄດ້ເຖິງຄວາມລຶກລັບຂອງສະຖານທີ່, ຈິດວິນຍານອັນແທ້ຈິງຂອງ ສະຖານທີ່-ຮ່ວມ ກັບຄົນສະໄໝບູຮານ. ບໍ່ ແ ມ່ ນ ສໍ າ ລັ ບ ທ່ າ ນ ທີ່ ຈ ະ ຮ້ ອ ງ ສ ຽ ງ ດັ ງ ອ ອ ກ ມ າ ວ່ າ “ ແ ມ່ ນ ຫ ຍັ ງ ? ມີເທົ່ານີ້ຫ໋ວາ?!” ແມ່ນແລ້ວ, ມີເທົ່ານີ້! ເບິ່ງດ້ວຍສາຍຕາແລ້ວມີພຽງ ເທົ່ານີ້ ທີ່ທົ່ງພຽງເຫຼົ່ານີ້ມີໃຫ້. ມັນຂຶ້ນກັບທ່ານທີ່ຈະຄົ້ນພົບຄວາມຈິງ, ຄວາມສະ ຫງົບ ແລະ ຄວາມສຸກໃນຈິດວິນຍານ ດ້ວຍຕົວທ່ານເອງດັ່ງທີ່ເຄີຍມີຄົນໄດ້ ບອກໄວ້. ລອງໄປທ່ຽວຊົມດ້ວຍຕົວທ່ານເອງ. ຄວາມງຽບ ສະຫງັດ… … ແລະ ໃນເວລາແຫ່ງການລໍາລຶກເຖິງ ປະຊາຊົນທີ່ເຄີຍອາໄສ ໃນທີ່ແຫ່ງນີ້, ຢູ່ເທິງ ທົ່ງພຽງ, ຜູ້ທີ່ເຄີຍໄດ້ຍ່າງຜ່ານຂຸມນະລົກ; ມັນເປັນປະຫວັດສາດ ທີ່ຍັງມີຊີວິດເຖິງພວກເຂົາ - ດຽວ ນີ້ເກີດຂຶ້ນຄືກັນຢູ່ບ່ອນອື່ນ. ສໍາລັບທ່ານໃດທີ່ຢາກຍ້ອນຮອຍການ ເດີນ ທາງ 8 ວັນທີ່ຍາກທີ່ຈະລືມຂອງ ພວກ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ໄປສູ່ບູຮານນະຄະດີ ແລະ ປະຫວັດສາດ ເພື່ອເບິ່ງການຟື້ນຟູຂອງປະເທດ, ສາມາດ ເຊົ່າລົດເດີນທາງຈາກ Europcar ແລະ ຖາມຫາ ໃຈ ເພື່ອຂັບລົດ ແລະ ນໍາທາງທ່ານໄປຮອດ ທີ່ໝາຍປາຍທາງດ້ວຍຄວາມເອົາໃຈໃສ່. ບົດຄວາມ 5 ບົດຖືກຕີພີມພາຍໃນໄລຍະເວລາສອງເດືອນ. ທ່ານສາມາດເຂົາອ່ານ ວາລະສານໄດ້ທີ່ເວັບໄຊທ໌ www.champaholiday.com ຫລື ອີກສະບັບໜຶ່ງ ຈາກເວັບໄຊທ໌ www.tropicaldesignfz.net/essay ຄໍາຄິດເຫັນທີ່ໄດ້ສະແດງໃນບົດຄວາມນີ້ເປັນຄວາມຮັບຜິດຊອບ ຂອງນັກຂຽນ ແລະ ບໍ່ຈໍາເປັນວ່າ ສິ່ງເຫລົ່ານັ້ນ ຈະສະທ້ອນເຖິງທັດສະນະຂອງຜູ້ທີ່ກ່ຽວຂ້ອງໃນການຈັດ ພິມວາລະສານສະບັບນີ້. ສະຫງວນລິຂະສິດໂດຍຜູ້ຂຽນ.

You may take Lao Airlines flight from Vientiane - Xiengkhouang - Vientiane every Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Sunday.

Flight details, read more on page 55

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ມາຮອດແລ້ວ ມະຫະກຳງານເຕັ້ນ

Contemporary Dance Festival

By Hélène Ouvrard ໂດຍ ເຮເລນ ອູຟຣາດ (Hélène Ouvrard)

A

fter a successful debut in 2010, the international dance festival, Fang Mae Khong, returns this October 8-23, 2011.

Remember? In 2010, the first international dance festival, Fang Mae Khong, took place in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Created by dancer and choregrapher, Olé Khamchanla, in collaboration with the Lao hip-hop crew Lao Bang Fai, it was the first event of its kind held in Lao PDR. This event created a rich experience and served as a cultural exchange between dancers from various horizons.

With this success, the festival is back this year for two weeks in Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Thakhek from October 8th to the 23rd. No less than 40 professional and amateur artists will take part in a full and diverse program that will be presented in its totality in those three cities. Fang Mae Khong’s goal is to contribute to Lao PDR’s social and cultural development through the arts and to promote exchanges and the professionalism of young artists, not only from Laos but also from other countries in the Mekong region.

A rich and diverse program with a focus on Southeast Asian artists especially from Singapore, which supports the festival through its National Arts Council as well as Arts Network Asia. Many newcomers want to join the ranks of last year’s artists, such as the French company KHAM (new company founded by Olé Khamchanla), Lao Bang Fai and the Cambodian contemporary dance company Silverbell.

On the agenda, original creations from traditional Thai theatrical dance “khon”, illustrating episodes from the Ramayana, by Wongkot Wutthidej to contemporary dance by the Vietnamese duo LTD company, Singaporian artists Raka Maitra, Sze-Wei Chan and Jian Hao Leong will share their creations, providing us with the flavour of a Rajput princess’s life, the sea and their personal experiences.

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ລັງຈາກການແຈ້ງເກີດຢ່າງປະສົບຜົນສໍາເລັດເມື່ອປີ 2010, ໃນ ເທດ ສະການເຕັ້ນລໍາສາກົນ, ຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງ, ກັບມາແລ້ວອີກຄັ້ງໃນ ວັນທີ 8-23 ເດືອນຕຸລາ 2011.

ຈື່ໄດ້ບ? ໍ່ ເມື່ອປີ 2010, ໄດ້ມກ ີ ານຈັດງານເທດສະການເຕັ້ນລໍາສາກົນຂຶ້ນເປັນ ຄັ້ງທໍາອິດຢູ່ ວຽງຈັນ ແລະ ຫລວງພະບາງ. ສ້າງສັນຂຶ້ນໂດຍນັກເຕັ້ນ ແລະ ຜູ້ອອກແບບທ່າເຕັ້ນ, ໂອເລ ຄໍາຈັນລາ, ຮ່ວມກັບຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນຮິບຮ໋ອບ ລາວບັ້ງໄຟ, ມັນເປັນງານຄັ້ງທໍາອິດສໍາລັບເດັກນ້ອຍລາວທີ່ເຄີຍໄດ້ຈັດຂຶ້ນ ຢູ່ ສປປ ລາວ. ງານນີ້ໄດ້ສ້າງປະສົບການອັນດີ ແລະ ກໍ່ເປັນການແລກປ່ຽນ ວັດທະນະທໍາລະຫ່ວາງບັນດານັກເຕັ້ນລຳທີ່ມາຈາກທຸກສາລະທິດ. ພ້ອມກັບຄວາມສໍາເລັດໃນຄັ້ງນັ້ນ, ຈະເຮັດໃຫ້ງານເທດສະການດັ່ງກ່າວ ຫວນກັບມາອີກຄັ້ງໃນປີນີ້ເປັນເວລາສອງອາທິດຢູ່ວຽງຈັນ, ຫລວງພະບາງ ແລະ ທ່າແຂກ ນັບແຕ່ວັນທີ 8 – 23 ເດືອນຕຸລາ. ຄາດວ່າບໍ່ຕໍ່າກ່ວາ 40 ນັກເຕັ້ນອາຊີບ ແລະ ສິລະປິນສະໝັກຫຼີ້ນຈະເຂົ້າຮ່ວມໃນລາຍການຕ່າງໆທີ່ ຈະຖືກຈັດຂຶ້ນທັງໝົດຢູ່ ສາມຕົວເມືອງ ທີ່ໄດ້ກ່າວມານັ້ນ. ດັ່ງນັ້ນ ຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງ ຈຶ່ງສືບຕໍ່ເປົ້າໝາຍຂອງຕົນເພື່ອປະກອບສ່ວນສ້າງສາພັດທະ ນາສັງຄົມ ແລະ ວັດທະນະທໍາຂອງ ສປປ ລາວ ຜ່ານວຽກງານກ່ຽວກັບສິລະປະ ແລະ ສົ່ງເສີມການແລກປ່ຽນລະຫ່ວາງສິລະປິນໄວໜຸ່ມ ມືອາຊີບ ບໍ່ສະເພາະແຕ່ທີ່ ມາຈາກລາວເທົ່ານັ້ນ ແຕ່ມາຈາກປະເທດອື່ນໆ ຢູ່ພາກພື້ນແມ່ນໍ້າຂອງນໍາ. ລາຍການສະແດງຫລາກຫລາຍ ໂດຍເນັ້ນໃສ່ສິລະປິນຈາກ ອາຊີຕາເວັນ ອອກສຽງໃຕ້ ໂດຍສະເພາະຈາກສິງກະໂປ ເຊິ່ງໃຫ້ການສະໜັບສະ ໜູນງານ ຜ່ານຄະນະກໍາມະການສິນລະປະແຫ່ງຊາດຂອງປະເທດ ລວມທັງເຄືອ ຂ່າຍສິນລະປະອາຊີ. ມີຜູ້ເຂົ້າຮ່ວມໃໝ່ຫລາຍຄົນຕ້ອງການ ເຂົ້າຮ່ວມການ ຈັດລໍາດັບຂອງສິລະປິນໃນປີຜ່ານມາ, ເຊັ່ນ: ຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນຈາກຝຣັ່ງ ຄຳ (ບໍລິສັດຄົນໂອເລ້ທີ່ຫາກໍ່ຈັດຕັ້ງຂຶ້ນໃນປະເທດຝຣັ່ງ), ລາວບັ້ງໄຟ ແລະ ຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນຮ່ວມສະໄໝ ຊິວເວີເບລ (Silverbell) ຈາກກໍາປູເຈັຍ. ຢູ່ໃນລາຍການສະແດງ, ຈະຈັດໃຫ້ມີການສະແດງ “ໂຂນ” ເຊິ່ງ ເປັນສິລະ ປະການຟ້ອນແບບປະເພນີຂອງ ໄທ ຈາກເລື່ອງລາມະ ກຽນ ໂດຍວົງກົດ ວຸດທິເດດ ໄປຈົນຮອດການເຕັ້ນຮ່ວມສະໄໝຈາກ ຊາວຫວຽດນາມວົງ ດູ, ສິລະປິນຈາກສິງກະໂປ ລາກາ ໄມຕຣາ (Raka Maitra), ເຊ-ເວ ຈັນ (Sze-Wei Chan) ແລະ ຈຽນ ເຫົາ ລີອົງ (Jian Hao Leong) ຈະຮ່ວມແລກ ປ່ຽນຜົນງານສ້າງສັນຂອງເຂົ້າເຈົ້າ, ໃຫ້ພວກເຮົາ ສໍາພັດໄດ້ເຖິງ ຊີວດ ິ ຂອງ ເຈົ້າຍິ່ງຣາຊພຸດ (Rajput), ທະເລ ແລະ ປະສົບການສ່ວນຕົວຂອງເຂົາເຈົ້າ.

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“Fang Lao,” born from the collaboration of Lao, Thai and French artists and presented for the first time during the closing of the first festival, plan to perform in its new form after a successful tour in France from February to June 2010 and in South-East Asia early 2011. Their success is proof that the festival provides a space for new artistic encounters, further creations and collaborations.

From France, dancer and choreographer, Anothai, will present his performance, blending hip-hop and poetry, entitled “Cloud”, while the De Fakto dance company will take audiences on a trip into the world of humour accompanied by texts and music by famous Belgian singer Jacques Brel.

Short films on dance-related themes will also be screened during the festival, as fringe events.

A community-centred festival seeks support For this second festival, a village tour will be organized for a whole week, from October 10th to the 14th, including dance workshops and shows in rural areas around Vientiane as a way to get closer to local communities and help them to discover modern dance and contemporary art. This is another central and ambitious objective of the Fang Mae Khong festival. As such, this year’s festival will expand to Thakhek. A fundraising evening will be organized in September in order to secure further support for this m a j o r cultural and one of a kind event.

For more information about the Fang Mae Khong festival, and its upcoming program and venues, please visit www.fmkfestival.org

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“ຝັ່ງລາວ,” ເກີດຈາກການເຮັດວຽກຮ່ວມ ກັນລະຫ່ວາງສິລະປິນ ລາວ, ໄທ ແລະ ຝຣັ່ງ ແລະ ໄດ້ສະແດງຄັ້ງທໍາອິດຕອນປິດ ງານເທດສະການຄັ້ງທີ່ໜຶ່ງ, ຈະມີການ ສະແດງຮູບແບບໃໝ່ຂອງທີມງານຫລັງ ຈາກໄດ້ເດີນທາງໄປສະແດງຢູ່ປະເທດ ຝຮັ່ງຢ່າງປະສົບຜົນສໍາເລັດ ແຕ່ເດືອນ ກຸມພາ ຫາເດືອນມິຖຸນາ 2010 ແລະ ເຂດອາຊີຕາເວັນອອກໃນຕົ້ນປີ2011. ຄວາມປະສົ ບ ຜົ ນ ສໍ າ ເລັ ດ ຂອງເຂົ າ ເຈົ້າເປັນເຄື່ອງພິສູດວ່າງານເທດສະການໃຫ້ພື້ນ ທີ່ສໍາລັບ ສິລະປິນໜ້າໃໝ່ໄດ້ມາພົບປະ, ສືບຕໍ່ປະດິດສ້າງ ແລະ ເຮັດວຽກຮ່ວມກັນ. ຈາກຝຣັ່ງ, ນັກເຕັ້ນ ແລະ ຜູ້ອອກແບບທ່າເຕັ້ນ, ອະໂນໄທ, ຈະສະແດງ ຜົນງານຂອງລາວ ເຊິ່ງເປັນການປະສົມປະສານລະ ຫ່ວາງຮິບຮ໋ອບ ແລະ ກອນ, ຕັ້ງຊື່ວ່າ “ຂີ້ເຝື້ອ”, ໃນຂະນະ ທີ່ຄະນະເຕັ້ນເດິຟາກໂຕ (De Fakto) ຈະເຊີນທ່ານຜູ້ຊົມ ເຂົ້າໄປໃນໂລກແຫ່ງລະຄອນສັດ ແລະ ກາຍະກໍາ ຕໍ່ດ້ວຍຂໍ້ຄວາມ ແລະ ສຽງເພງໂດຍນັກຮ້ອງ ເບລຢຽມ ທີ່ມີຊື່ສຽງ ຊັກສ ເບຣລ (Jacques Brel). ນອກຈາກນີ້ ກໍ່ ຍັ ງ ຈະມີ ກ ານສາຍຮູ ບ ເງົ າ ສັ້ ນ ຢູ່ ໃ ນງານ, ເປັ ນ ລາຍການ ປະກອບ. ງານເທດສະການນີ້ຍັງຕ້ອງການການສະໜັບສະໜູນເພີ່ມເຕີມ ສໍາລັບງານເທດສະການຄັ້ງທີ່ສອງນີ້, ຈະມີການຈັດລາຍການທ່ອງທ່ຽວໃນ ໝູ່ບ້ານຕະຫລອດອາທິດໜຶ່ງ, ເລີ່ມຈາກວັນທີ 10 – 14 ເດືອນຕຸລາ, ລວມມີການເຕັ້ນ ແລະ ສະແດງຢູ່ເຂດຊົນນະບົດອ້ອມແອ້ມວຽງຈັນເພື່ອ ເປັນການເຂົ້າເຖິງຊຸມຊົນ ໃຫ້ຫຼາຍຂຶ້ນກ່ວາເກົ່າ ແລະ ຊ່ວຍໃຫ້ເຂົາເຈົ້າຄົ້ນ ພົບການເຕັ້ນແບບສະໄໜໃຫ່ມ ແລະ ສິລະປະຮ່ວມສະໄໝ. ສິ່ງນີ້ແມ່ນອີກ ໜຶ່ງໃຈກາງ ແລະ ເປົ້າໝາຍສູງສຸດຂອງເທດສະການຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງ. ດ້ວຍເຫດ ນີ້ເທດສະການປີນີ້ຈະຂະຫຍາຍອອກໄປຮອດເມືອງທ່າແຂກ. ການລະດົມ ທຶນເພີ່ມເຕີມຈະໄດ້ຈັດຂຶ້ນໃນໄລຍະເດືອນກັນຍາ ເພື່ອຊອກຫາທຶນສະ ໜັບສະໜູນການຈັດງານກ່ຽວກັບ ວັດທະນະທໍາດັ່ງກ່າວໃຫ້ສຳເລັດ. ທ່ າ ນສາມາດເຂົ້ າ ເບິ່ ງ ຂໍ້ ມູ ນ ເພີ່ ມ ເຕີ ມ ກ່ ຽ ວກັ ບ ເທດສະ ການຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງ,ລາຍການຕ່າງໆ ແລະ ສະຖານທີ່, ໄດ້ທີ່ເວັບໄຊທ໌ www.fmkfestival.org

Fang Mae Kong 2011 - Artists ANOTHAI Annecy - FRANCE Wind, rain, sky, clouds. Strength, grace and fluidity. Air and water. Dance. In looking to the sky, I saw. In observing the elements of life, I understood. A vast azure desert spread beneath me; A colourful whirlwind, where the two elements meet and part in a mysterious dance of water and air.

Gentle cyclone, powerful zephyr of air. The breath transported me to the great paradise of clouds…

“Having spent several years expressing myself through the technique and virtuosity of hip hop, I felt the need to explore a new language of subtlety and poetry in the body of the hip hop dancer. Observing the forms and metamorphoses of clouds, I was inspired to connect this force of nature to my dancing. This became a formula for a state of being both supple and light, slow and quick, still and discreet. Inspired by the novel Prince ofthe Clouds by Christophe Galfard and the music of the celebrated contemporary Japanese composer Ryuichi Sakamoto, I understood that hip hop could be channeled and tamed, with tenderness and dreams.”

SILVERBELL cie Phnom Penh - CAMBODIA SILVERBELL is one of the very rare contemporary dance company in Cambodia.

Choreographer « Belle » Chumvan Sodvannaphum and 5 Khmer dancers created the company in 2003 in Phnom Penh. It aims at promoting creation mixing khmer and contemporary dances.

In 2004, Silverbell stages its first creation for Sovannaphum Art Association. Until 2010, dancers perform several times within choreographical projects led in collaboration with French Cultural Center in Phnom Penh and AMRITA Performing Arts where most of the artists have been trained.

Thanks to her many training abroad, Belle creates pieces like “Hope to have tomorrow” and “Feeling of love” in 2009.

Mira was entered into an arranged marriage at the age 20 but her husband was soon killed in battle. She however rejected widowhood and continued to sing, dance and compose songs and poetry for her beloved Shyam…

In Mira, the dancer seeks to express the life and work of this brave, singleminded, remarkable woman contextualised in performance, in dance and movement, mediated by folk music, text and history. This is not a religious homage, it is attempt to celebrate the exceptional, exemplary and intense humanity which Mira’s life and work epitomises.

NETZ Vientiane - LAOS Since 2006, LAO BANG FAI association has worked closely with Handicap International, Belgium, which leads programs aiming at integrating disabled people injured by antipersonnel land mines. One of the programs includes dance. For 5 years now, Lao Bang Fai has been working with young disabled people around hip-hop and traditional dances.

The main objective of the group is to inspire young people in sharing and exchanging their feelings through positive expression and communicate a message of peace and inclusion.

“My story” is the encounter of two worlds. One victim of antipersonnel land mine, an outcast; and the modern world, unknown to him. While waiting to enter this world, he dreams about it. He dreams about social inclusion. He dreams… and dances.

Visit www.fmkfestival.org to learn about many more artists.

Belle has already been invited for FMK festival in 2010. She performed a solo, extract from “Khmeropedies” created by Manu Phuon for AMRITA. For FMK 2011, Belle is back with her company SILVERBELL to stage a trio especially created for us.

RAKA MAITRA SINGAPORE Mira was a 15th Century Rajput princess born into the ruling clan in Kudki, near Jodhpur in present-day Rajasthan. During her lifetime she was renowned for her beauty, intelligence, pride, wilfulness and great devotion to her god Shyam, the one she called “the dark one”.

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Ole Khamchanla: Hiphop dancer & choreographer

ໂອເລ ຄໍາຈັນລາ:

ນັກເຕັ້ນຮິບຮ໋ອບ ແລະ ຜູ້ອອກແບບທ່າເຕັ້ນ

Interviewed and photographed by Amatha Paul RATSOMBATH ສໍາພາດ ແລະ ຖ່າຍພາບໂດຍ ອຳມະຕະ ພອລ ລາດສົມບັດ

O

le Khamchanla is a professional dancer and choreographer and co-founder of the “A’corps” danse company. He recently founded his own company: “KHAM”. The 33 year-old is also the organizer of the 1st international dance festival in Laos: the FANG MAE KHONG Festival. He was born in Laos but emigrated to France when he was a young child. This year the 2nd Edition of Fang Mae Khong returns to Vientiane, Thakhek and Luang Prabang, October 8th to the 23rd. Champa Holidays Magazine recently caught up with him.

Ole, can you tell us about your artistic journey? What brought you to dance?

In fact, it was pretty early, at age 7 or 8, when I started to dance. Like loads of youngsters from my generation, I entered this world, imitating Michael Jackson. At 12, friends in my neighborhood started a dance squad in Valence, the town where I grew up. We toured around for four years. One day, during a show in a nearby city, I saw a hip hop performance for the first time. It was a kind of revelation. I started to learn this new dance during free workshops provided by a local association, named “Culture Street”. In one of those courses, I met Karim Amghar, who became my partner and co-founder of “A’corps” company. We worked together for more than 10 years, but it was not an exclusive partnership. We also had our own personal projects. One of them led me to Italy for two years with a dance company called “Artemis Danza”. There, I learned a lot about contemporary dance and also about the “writing” aspect of a physical show. From this experience, I created my first choreography called ‘Nous sommes tous...’ (We are all).

What brought you back to Laos, your birth-country?

It was unexpected. In 2000, I took my first trip to Asia. My mother brought me to Udon Thani, Thailand to visit relatives there. On the plane to Bangkok, she asked me if I wanted to meet my father. It was a shock to me. I assumed he was dead. It was an intense feeling, meeting a father I never knew and walking in the steps of my ancestors. Since then I’ve heard the call of my roots, I wanted to know more about the country and the people. In 2005, I came back alone. Maybe I was a little scared. I took my time, 25 days, to travel from Bangkok to Vientiane. It was a kind of initiation for me. When I arrived in Laos, I saw teenagers practicing hip hop dancing in the streets. It was my first contact with Lao Bang Fai. Other things followed naturally with the help of the French Center offering cultural exchange programs between France and Laos. In 2006, we worked together with Lao Bang Fai to create our first show. In 2007, I was preparing my first solo with the help of Valerie Barran, from “ Tarmac of la Villette”. She

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ໂອເລ ຄໍາຈັນລາ ແມ່ນນັກເຕັ້ນ ແລະ ຜູ້ອອກແບບທ່າເຕັ້ນມືອາຊີບ ທັງເປັນຜູ້ຮ່ວມສ້າງ ຕັ້ງຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນ “ເອ’ຄອບສ໌” (A’corps). ເມື່ອວາງບໍ່ດົນມານີ້ລາວ ໄດ້ສ້າງຕັ້ງ ບໍລິສັດ ຂອງລາວເອງຊື່ວ່າ: “ຄໍາ”. ນອກຈາກນີ້ ດ້ວຍອາຍຸພຽງ 33 ປີ ລາວຍັງເປັນຜູ້ຈັດງານເທດ ສະການເຕັ້ນລໍາສາກົນຄັ້ງທໍາອິດໃນລາວ: ເທດສະການຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງ. ລາວເກີດຢູ່ປະ ເທດລາວແຕ່ໄດ້ຍົກຍ້າຍໄປຢູ່ ປະເທດຝຣັ່ງ ຕອນລາວຍັງນ້ອຍ. ໃນປີນີ້ ເທດສະການ ຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງຄັ້ງທີ 2 ກັບມາອີກຄັ້ງສູ່ ວຽງຈັນ, ທ່າແຂກ ແລະ ຫລວງພະບາງ, ນັບແຕ່ວັນທີ 8-23 ເດືອນຕຸລາ. ທາງທີມງານ ຂອງໜັງສືຈໍາປາໂຮລິເດ ໄດ້ມີໂອກາດໂອ້ລົມກັບລາວ. ໂອເລ, ທ່ານສາມາດບອກພວກເຮົາໄດ້ບໍ່ກ່ຽວກັບເສັ້ນທາງສາຍສິລະປິນຂອງທ່ານ? ແມ່ນຫຍັງ ເຮັດໃຫ້ທ່ານເຂົ້າມາສູ່ວົງການເຕັ້ນລໍາ? ຄວາມຈິງແລ້ວຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເລີ່ມເຕັ້ນແຕ່ຕອນອາຍຸຍງັ ນ້ອຍປະມານ 7 ຫຼື 8 ປີ. ກໍ່ຄືກັບເສັ້ນ ທາງຂອງ ຄົນໜຸ່ມຫລາຍໆຄົນຮຸ້ນດຽວກັນກັບ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ, ຂ້າ ພະເຈົ້າ ໄດ້ກ້າວ ເຂົ້າມາໃນວົງການນີ້ ໂດຍການຮຽນແບບ ໄມເຄີລ ແຈກຊັນ. ຕອນອາຍຸໄດ້ 12 ປີ, ໝູ່ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຢູ່ແຖວບ້ານໄດ້ ຮ່ວມຕົວກັນສ້າງທີມເຕັ້ນຂຶ້ນມາ ຢູ່ເມືອງ ວາເລັນສ໌ (Valence) ເຊິ່ງເປັນເມື່ອງທີ່ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເຕີບໃຫ່ຍຂຶ້ນມາ. ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ອອກ ໄປສະ ແດງຕາມສະຖານທີ່ຕ່າງໆ ເປັນເວລາສີ່ປີ. ຕໍ່ມາມື້ໜຶ່ງໃນຄະນະທີ່ສະແດງຢູ່ເມືອງ ໃກ້ຄຽງ, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເຫັນການສະແດງເຕັ້ນຮິບຮ໋ອບເປັນຄັ້ງທໍາອິດ. ປະມານວ່າ ເປັນ ການຊີ້ ທ າງສະຫ່ ວ າງໃຫ້ ຕົ ວ ເອງເລີ ຍ ກ້ າ ວເຂົ້ າ ມາຮຽນເຕັ້ ນ . ຂ້ າ ພະເຈົ້ າ ໄດ້ ເ ລີ່ ມ ຮຽນ ຮູ້ກ່ຽວກັບທ່າເຕັ້ນໃໝ່ນີ້ໃນລະ ຫ່ວາງງານສໍາມະນາທີ່ບໍ່ເສຍຄ່າໃຊ້ຈ່າຍຈັດໂດຍສະມາ ຄົມທ້ອງຖີ່ນແຫ່ງໜຶ່ງເອີ້ນວ່າ “ວັດທະນະທໍາຂ້າງຖະໜົນ”. ໜຶ່ງໃນຫລັກສູດເລົ່ານັ້ນ, ຂ້າ ພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ພົບກັບ ກາຣິມ ອັງກາ (Karim Amghar) ເຊິ່ງຕໍ່ມາ ໄດ້ກາຍເປັນຫຸ້ນສ່ວນ ແລະ ຜູ້ຮ່ວມກໍ່ຕັ້ງຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນ “ເອ’ຄອບສ໌”. ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ເຮັດວຽກນໍາກັນ ມາຫລາຍກ່ວາ 10 ປີແລ້ວ, ແຕ່ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າກໍ່ບໍ່ໄດ້ເປັນຫຸ້ນສ່ວນພຽງຢ່າງດຽວ. ພວກ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຍັງມີໂຄງການຂອງ ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າເອງ. ໜຶ່ງໃນນັ້ນໄດ້ນໍາຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄປ ອິດຕະລີ ເປັນເວລາສອງປີ ກັບຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນມີຊື່ວ່າ “ອາເຕັມມີສ໌ ແດນສາ” (Artemis Dansa). ຢູ່ທີ່ນັ້ນ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ມີໂອກາດຮຽນຮູ້ ຫລາຍສິ່ງຫລາຍຢ່າງກ່ຽວ ກັບການເຕັ້ນຮ່ວມສະໄໝ ພ້ອມກັບຮູບແບບໃນ “ການຂຽນ” ສໍາລັບການສະແດງທາງ ກາຍະກຳ. ຈາກປະສົບການນີ້, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ຄິດ ຄົ້ນທ່າເຕັ້ນ ທໍາອິດຂອງຕົນເອງ ຮຽກວ່າ ‘ນູສ໌ ສົມເມສ໌ ຕູສ໌...’ (Nous sommes tous...) ໝາຍເຖິງ ‘ພວກເຮົາທັງໝົດ’. ແມ່ນຫັຍງເຮັດໃຫ້ທ່ານກັບມາປະເທດລາວ, ບ້ານເກີດຂອງທ່ານ? ເປັນເລື່ອງທີ່ບໍ່ໄດ້ຄາດຄິດມາກ່ອນ. ໃນປີ 2000, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເດີນທາງມາອາຊີ ເປັນເທື່ອທໍາອິດ. ແມ່ຂອງຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ພາຂ້າພະເຈົ້າມາຢ້ຽມພີ່ນ້ອງຢູ່ ອຸດອນທານີ, ປະເທດໄທ. ຢູ່ເທິງຍົນໄປບາງກອກ, ລາວໄດ້ຖາມຂ້າພະເຈົ້າວ່າຢາກໄປຢ້ຽມພໍ່ບໍ? ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຮູ້ສຶກຕົກໃຈ. ຄິດວ່າເພີ່ນໄດ້ເສຍໄປແລ້ວ. ເປັນຄວາມຮູ້ສຶກຕຶ້ນຕັນໃຈ ທີ່ຈະໄດ້ພົບພໍ່ ທີ່ບໍ່ເຄີຍໄດ້ຮູ້ຈັກມາກ່ອນ ແລະ ຈະໄດ້ຍ່າງຕາມຮອຍບັນພະບູລຸດ. ນັບແຕ່ນັ້ນມາ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ຍິນສຽງຮຽກເອີ້ນ ແຫ່ງຕົ້ນ ກໍາເນີດ, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ຢາກຮຽນຮູ້ກ່ຽວກັບປະເທດ ແລະ ປະຊາຊົນ. ໃນປີ 2005, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເດີນທາງ ກັບມາລາວຄົນດຽວ. ບາງເທືອ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າກໍ່ຮູ້ສຶກຢ້ານ ໜ້ອຍໜຶ່ງ. ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໃຊ້ເວລາ 25 ມື້ ເດີນທາງຈາກ ບາງກອກມາວຽງຈັນ. ປະມານວ່າມັນເປັນການເລີ່ມຕົ້ນ ສໍາລັບ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ. ເມື່ອຂ້າພະເຈົ້າມາຮອດລາວ, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເຫັນເດັກນ້ອຍຊາວໜຸ່ມຊ້ອມ ເຕັ້ນຮິບຮ໋ອບຢູ່ຕາມຖະໜົນ. ເປັນຄັ້ງ ທໍາອິດທີ່ຂ້າ ພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ຮູ້ຈັກກັບຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນ ລາວບັ້ງໄຟ. ຫລັງຈາກນັ້ນກໍ່ມີ ຫລາຍສິ່ງຫລາຍຢ່າງເກີດຂຶ້ນມາ ໂດຍການຊ່ວຍເຫລືອ

pushed me to dive as deep as I could into my soul and origins.

So I returned to Asia to learn traditional dance. First in Bangkok, where I was initiated into ‘Khone’, especially the ‘monkey’ style.

Then I went back to Laos to learn ‘Fon’ and the traditional choreography of the ‘champa flower’.

How did you come up with the idea of an international dance festival in Laos?

The idea was suggested by Florient Nicolas, a French filmmaker who was working on a documentary about A’Corps, during a shoot in Laos. I realized that I already had every piece of the puzzle. I had all the connections with French and Southeast Asian artists, as well as with the institutions that supported me during my trips and workshops here. It became clear to me that Asian artists needed international exposure to show what they were capable of.

The 1st edition in 2010 was a success. What lessons did you take from it?

The balance sheet is more than positive. It was a giant challenge because event organization is not my specialty. At A’Corps, I do a little bit of everything, but this was completely different. It was an international event, which made it more difficult. The help of the Lao Bang Fai, and the generosity of the artists made it possible.

Institutions helped of course, especially the the French Institute and its network. But the festival was mainly a success because of the enthusiasm and support of local partners and investors, particularly foreign companies in Laos with a desire to fuel cultural growth in their adopted country. The budget of the previous first festival reached $40,000. Eighty percent was provided in goods and services (hotel rooms for the artists, daily food and more...).

Without their support, it would have been almost impossible to achieve our goal.

What can you tell us about the upcoming 2nd FAE MAE KHONG FESTIVAL in October?

This new international dance festival is going to be an itinerant festival: traveling through Laos, stopping in three major cities.

First, Thakek, then Vientiane, and it ends in Luang Prabang. The main goal of this edition is to get closer to people, to make dance accessible to an audience that is usually far from it. That’s why in the first week, we’ll organize a ‘village tour’, to bring dance shows and workshops to small villages around Vientiane. For the Festival itself, the program will be the same in each city, and people will have the opportunity to see fourteen dance shows, ten professional shows plus four amateur shows, over two days. Just like in the first festival, artists will come from the international scene (France, Thailand, Burma and more), as well as the local Lao scene. We will of course, also have the classic hip hop “battle”, where B-boys challenge each other on stage in a live show. But this Festival is not only a dance show. We have also organized a logo contest to promote graphic design and support youth to encourage artistic creation. The whole team remains enthusiastic this year, so I hope once again, that we’ll please our Lao audience.

The Fang Mae Khong Festival will take place from October 8 – 23, 2011 in Thakek, Vientiane and Luang Prabang. ເບິ່ງຂໍ້ມູນເພີ່ມເຕີມໄດ້ທີ່ເວັບໄຊທ໌ For more info, please check out www.fmkfestival.org

ຂອງສູນຝຣັ່ງທີ່ຈັດໃຫ້ມີ ໂຄງການແລກປ່ຽນວັດທະນະທໍາລະຫ່ວາງ ປະເທດຝຣັ່ງ ແລະ ລາວ. ໃນປີ 2006, ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ເຮັດວຽກຮ່ວມກັບລາວບັ້ງໄຟເພື່ອ ຈັດການສະແດງຄັ້ງທໍາອິດຂອງ ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ. ໃນປີ 2007, ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ ກະກຽມການສະແດງຄົນດຽວຄັ້ງ ທໍາອິດຂອງຕົນເອງ ໂດຍການຊ່ວຍເຫລືອຂອງ ວາເລິຣີ ບາແຣນ (Valerie Barran) ຈາກ “ຕາແມກ ລາ ວິລເລ” (Tarmac of la Villette). ລາວຜັກດັນໃຫ້ຂ້າພະ ເຈົ້າລົງເລິກເຂົ້າໄປໃນຈິດວິນຍານ ແລະ ຕົ້ນກໍາເນີດຂອງຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ. ດັ່ງນັ້ນ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ຈຶ່ງກັບມາອາຊີ ເພື່ອຮຽນຮູ້ກ່ຽວ ກັບການເຕັ້ນພື້ນເມືອງ. ທໍາອິດ ແມ່ນຢູ່ບາງກອກ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນບ່ອນທີ່ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າໄດ້ ເລີ່ມ ຮຽນຮູ້ກ່ຽວກັບ ‘ໂຂນ’, ໂດຍສະເພາະຮູບແບບການເຕັ້ນ ‘ລິງ’. ຕໍ່ມາ ຂ້າພະ ເຈົ້າໄດ້ເດີນທາງກັບມາລາວເພື່ອສຶກສາກ່ຽວກັບການ ‘ຟ້ອນ’ ແລະ ການອອກແບບ ທ່າຟ້ອນພື້ນເມືອງ ‘ດອກຈໍາປາ’. ເຮັ ດ ແນວໃດທ່ າ ນຈຶ່ ງ ມີ ແ ນວຄວາມຄິ ດ ກ່ ຽ ວກັ ບ ການຈັ ດ ງານເທດສະການເຕັ້ ນ ລໍາສາກົນຢູ່ລາວ? ຜູ້ແນະນໍາແນວຄວາມຄິດນີ້ແມ່ນ ຟລໍຣຽນ ນິໂກລາ (Florient Nicolas), ຜູ້ສ້າງໜັງ ຄົນຝຣັ່ງເຊິ່ງກໍາລັງເຮັດໜັງສາລະຄະດີກ່ຽວກັບຄະນະນັກເຕັ້ນ ເອ’ຄອບສ໌ ໃນລະ ຫວ່າງການຖ່າຍໜັງຢູລ ່ າວ. ຕົນເອງຮູວ ້ າ່ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າມີທກ ຸ ໆສ່ວນຂອງຈິກຊໍ. ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ຮູ້ຈັກກັບທັງສິລະປິນ ຝຣັ່ງ ແລະ ອາຊີຕາເວັນອອກສຽງໃຕ້ ລວມທັງຫລາຍໆອົງ ກອນທີ່ໃຫ້ ການສະໜັບສະໜູນລະວາງການເດີນທາງ ແລະ ການຈັດງານຢູ່ທີ່ນີ້. ມັນເປັນທີ່ຈະແຈ້ງສໍາລັບ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າວ່າສິລະປິນອາຊີຈໍາເປັນຕ້ອງມີການອອກໄປສູ່ ສາຍຕາສາກົນເພື່ອສະແດງໃຫ້ເຂົາເຈົ້າຮູ້ເຖິງຄວາມສາມາດທີ່ ພວກເຂົາມີ. ການຈັດງານຄັ້ງທີ 1 ໃນປີ 2010 ປະສົບຜົນສໍາເລັດ. ທ່ານໄດ້ຖອດຖອນບົດຮຽນ ຫຍັງ ແດ່ຈາກການຈັດງານໃນຄັ້ງນັ້ນ? ເມື່ອສະຫລຸບຕົວເລກບັນຊີອອກມາເປັນຫລາຍກ່ວາບວກ. ມັນເປັນຄວາມທ້າທາຍ ອັນຍິ່ງໃຫ່ຍເນື່ອງຈາກວ່າຂ້າພະເຈົ້າບໍ່ຊຽວຊານ ເລື່ອງການຈັດງານ. ສໍາລັບ ອາຄອບສ໌ ຂ້າພະເຈົ້າບໍ່ໄດ້ເຮັດຫຍັງຫລາຍ, ແຕ່ມັນກໍ່ແຕກຕ່າງກັນຢ່າງຂາດຂັ້ນ. ມັນເປັນງານລະດັບສາກົນ ເຊິ່ງກໍ່ເຮັດໃຫ້ການຈັດງານນັ້ນຍາກຂຶ້ນ. ການໃຫ້ການ ສະໜັບສະໜູນ ລາວບັ້ງໄຟ ແລະ ດ້ວຍຄວາມໃກ້ວາງຂອງບັນດາສິລິປິນ ເຮັດໃຫ້ ເປັນໄປໄດ້. ແນ່ນອນບັນດາ ອົງການຈັດຕັ້ງ ກໍ່ໄດ້ປະກອບສ່ວນຊ່ວຍເຫລືອ ໂດຍ ສະເພາະສູນຝຣັ່ງ ແລະ ເຄືອຂ່າຍ. ແຕ່ຜົນສໍາເລັດຂອງງານເທດສະການເປັນ ໄປໄດ້ ກໍ່ຍ້ອນຄວາມກະຕືລືລົ້ນ ແລະ ການສະໜັບສະໜູນຂອງຫຸ້ນສ່ວນ ແລະ ນັກ ລົງທຶນ ພາຍໃນ ໂດຍສະເພາະບໍລິສັດຕ່າງປະເທດຢູ່ໃນລາວ ເຊິ່ງມີຄວາມຕ້ອງການ ສົ່ງເສີມ ໃຫ້ວັດທະນະທໍາມີການຈະເລີນເຕີບໂຕ. ງົບປະມານຂອງການຈັດງານຄັ້ງ ກ່ອນແມ່ນ $40,000 ໂດລາສະຫະລັດ. ແປດສິບສ່ວນຮ້ອຍຖືກໃຊ້ໃນຮູບຂອງ ເຄື່ອງໃຊ້ ແລະ ການບໍລິການຕ່າງໆ (ໂຮງແຮມສໍາລັບສິລະປິນ, ອາຫານປະຈໍາວັນ ແລະ ອື່ນໆ...). ຖ້າປາດສະຈາກການສະໜັບສະໜູນ ຂອງພວກເຂົາ, ກໍ່ເປັນໄປບໍ່ໄດ້ທີ່ ພວກຂ້າພະ ເຈົ້າຈະບັນລຸເປົ້າໝາຍໄດ້. ມີຫຍັງແດ່ກ່ຽວກັບການຈັດງານເທດສະການຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງຄັ້ງທີ 2 ໃນເດືອນຕຸລານີ້? ເທດສະການເຕັ້ນລໍາສາກົນຄັ້ງໃໝ່ນີ້ຈະກາຍເປັນເທດສະການທ່ອງທ່ຽວໜຶ່ງ: ການ ເດີນທາງຜ່ານປະເທດລາວ, ຢຸດເຊົາຢູ່ສາມຕົວເມືອງໃຫ່ຍ. ທໍາອິດຢູ່ທ່າແຂກ, ຕໍ່ຈາກນັ້ນໄປວຽງຈັນ ແລະ ສິ້ນສຸດ ຢູ່ຫລວງພະບາງ. ເປົ້າໝາຍຕົ້ນຕໍຂອງການ ຈັດງານຄັ້ງນີ້ແມ່ນການ ໄດ້ໃກ້ຊິດກັບປະຊາຊົນ, ເຮັດໃຫ້ນັກເຕັ້ນເຂົ້າເຖິງຜູ້ຊົມ ເຊິ່ງ ປົກກະຕິແລ້ວຈະຢູ່ໄກ. ຍ້ອນແນວນີ້ໃນອາທິດທໍາອິດ ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ຈະຈັດໃຫ້ມີ ‘ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວໝູ່ບ້ານ’, ເພື່ອນໍາເອົາການສະແດງເຕັ້ນ ແລະງານເຂົ້າໄປຫາໝູ່ ບ້ານນ້ອຍໆ ອ້ອມແອ້ມວຽງຈັນ. ສໍາລັບງານເທດສະການລາຍ ການສະແດງຈະຄື ກັນທຸກໆເມືອງ, ແລະ ປະຊາຊົນຈະມີໂອກາດໄດ້ເຫັນການສະ ແດງເຕັ້ນສິບສີ່ລາຍ ການ, ສິບລາຍການສະແດງມືອາຊີບ ພ້ອມກັບສີ່ລາຍການສະແດງສະມັກເຫລັ້ນ ຕະຫລອດສອງມື້. ກໍ່ຄືກັບການສະແດງໃນຄັ້ງທໍາອິດ, ສິລະປິນຈະມາຈາກຫລາຍປະ ເທດ (ຝຣັ່ງ, ໄທ, ມຽນມ້າ ແລະ ອີກຫລາຍໆ ປະເທດ), ລວມທັງຈາກລາວເຮົາ. ແນ່ນອນ ພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຈະມີການເຕັ້ນ ຮິບຮ໋ອບ “ຕໍ່ສູ້” ແຂ່ງຂັນກັນ ແບບດັ່ງ ເດີມ ເຊິ່ງບັນດານັກເຕັ້ນ ບີ-ບອຍ ຈະເຕັ້ນ ທ້າທາຍກັນສະແດງແບບສົດໆ ຢູ່ເທິງເວທີ. ແຕ່ເທດສະການນີ້ບໍ່ເປັນພຽງແຕ່ການ ສະແດງເຕັ້ນເທົ່ານັ້ນ.ພວກຂ້າພະ ເຈົ້າຍັງຈະຈັດການແຂ່ງຂັນ ການອອກແບບ ໂລໂກ ເພື່ອສົ່ງເສີມການອອກແບບ ກຣາບຝິກ ແລະ ສະໜັບສະໜູນໃຫ້ ເຍົາວະຊົນມີຄວາມຄິດສ້າງສັນ ທີ່ມີລັກສະນະສີນ ລະປະ. ໃນປີນີ້ທີມງານທັງໝົດ ຍັງມີຄວາມກະຕືລືລົ້ນຄືເກົ່າ,ດັ່ງນັ້ນຂ້າພະເຈົ້າຫວັງ ອີກຄັ້ງ ວ່າພວກຂ້າພະເຈົ້າ ຈະເຮັດໃຫ້ ບັນດາທ່ານຜູ້ຊົມປະຊາຊົນລາວມີຄວາມ ເພິງພໍໃຈ. ງານເທດສະການຝັ່ງແມ່ຂອງຈະຈັດຂຶ້ນໃນວັນທີ 8-23 ເດືອນຕຸລາ ຢູ່ທ່າແຂກ, ວຽງຈັນ ແລະ ຫລວງພະບາງ.

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Hmong New Year Excerpts from Kou Yang, Ed.D. of the Hmong Studies Journal 8: 1-32.

While Hmong have important events such as marriage, birth and funerals, New Year is the only public holiday that is celebrated by communities throughout the country. The Hmong of Laos hold their New Year at the end of the twelfth and the beginning of the first lunar calendar months. Each village, however, may celebrate at a different date or month to accommodate the situation of the village, such as harvesting demands, deaths, joining other village celebrations, etc. As a result, some villages may celebrate earlier (November 25th) and others might delay until a later month (December 25th). Therefore, the New Year celebration can sometimes fall between the months of November and December.

The Hmong New Year is divided into three main events: the New Year’s feast, the ritual ceremony of the transition from the old to the new year, and the celebration, as follows:

The Feasting or Noj Tsiab/Tsab usually takes place before the end of the twelfth lunar calendar month, when the harvest is completed and foods are abundant. Each family takes turns to invite relatives and friends to the feasting. The family slaughters its New Year’s pig or “npua tsiab” for the feasting. It is not only a time to enjoy the feast, but to visit with relatives, friends and loved ones to renew ties and social bonds. Because most Hmong are animist, the feasting is also a time to offer food to ancestors and the spirits of the earth and sky to remember the ancestors and to express appreciation to the spirits for protecting the family throughout the year. The feast is also a time to reflect upon the passing year and prepare for the coming year.

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Lwm Sub/Lwm Qab - The Ritual Ceremony of the Transition from the Old Year to the New Year is held on the afternoon of the last day of the old year. The ceremony begins with the Lwm Sub/Lwm Qab or chasing bad omens away with the old year and welcoming the new year along with prosperity, good health, harmony, and longevity. The Lwm Sub takes place outside the house under a rope made of braided grass hanging from a torn tree (a special kind tree that fend off evil spirits, usually found only in Xiengkhouang province) that has been temporary replanted for this ritual. This ceremony can be conducted by individual families and or also together as one village/community at a common ground in the village. Extended family members or if communally, members of the whole village walk in a circular direction around the tree four times to symbolize the sending of the old year away with all bad omens, and then reversing the circle three times to welcome the New Year. Usually, the oldest male of the extended family or shaman in the village stands in the middle, beside the tree, holding a rooster to preside over and perform the ceremony. After the ceremony, the chicken is killed, its blood is scattered around the circle, the tree is taken away and family members return home to begin the soul calling ceremony, usually by the entrance into the house, and prepare for the New Year’s dinner.

All daily agricultural activities and work must be stopped from this point on, including animals and tools, such as those used for agricultural production, must also take a rest. Before dinner, the ceremony of offering foods to the ancestors is made. This tradition, however, varies from family to family or from sub-clan to sub-clan; some sub-clans offer foods only in the morning of the first day of the New Year. Others do so at both the New Year’s dinner and the breakfast of the first day of the New Year. Before going to bed, each family member washes him or herself and parents make sure their children bathe to wash away bad luck and illness and are clean for the coming year. Elders will stay up for the night to wait for the New Year. In the villages, when roosters crow for the first time in the early hours of the morning, young wives and their husbands go to the river to take the water of the New Year.

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The New Year Celebration starts on the morning of the first day of the new year and may at least three days up to two weeks. Festivities of the New Year’s celebration include traditional activities such as ball tossing, singing contests, Qeej (an intricate bamboo instrument) performances and sporting activities, such as top spinning, and bull fighting. Today, the event is a festival that includes stalls of food, games and anything that can be sold as well as popular music concerts that sometimes drowns out the traditional activities.

Young Hmong women and men dressed in their colorful and elaborately embroidered clothing, adorned with silver jewelry come from all over the village and other cities to a large common area in a particular Hmong village to admire each other and to participate in the pov pob or ball tossing activity. These young people line up, women on one side and men on the other, to throw a handmade cloth ball (tennis balls are also used) to each other. Those that can sing, will serenade each other, with a crowd gathering quietly around them, listening intently. And if they really like each other, they can sing all day and sometimes all week-long! Some end up married shortly after the New Year celebration.

Because in the old days (before mobile phones, internet and living in remote mountain top villages) Hmong girls and boys were strictly prohibited from talking or even meeting each other in public, the ball tossing ritual was the only opportunity they had to dress in their best outfits to meet, talk, sing songs and throw balls in public. Showing signs of love and affection, such as holding hands and kissing and hugging in public were not and to certain point still not permitted today. This is probably one reason why this ball tossing ritual often last for weeks, as an acceptable way for young people to meet each other.

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Vientiane

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Capital Of Lao PDR

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Settha Thirat

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Mahasot

Presidential Palace

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Int'l Clinic

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Anouvong Monument

Don Chan Palace

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Restaurants, Accommodations Advisor Restaurants VIENTIANE Khop Chai Deu The place where the world meets.

54 Setthathirat Rd, Namphou Fountain, Tel/Fax: (856) 21-251564 khopchaideu.com

Nos sushi bar Sophisticated Fusion Sushi & Japanese food

Hang Boun, Ban Haisok Tel: 021 265 000

xayoh grill house Home of serious steaks.

Samsenthai Rd Tel/Fax: (856) 21-261 777 xayohgroup.com

Kongkhao Cuisines: Asian

Rue Phagna Sy Tel/Fax: (856) 21-261 777 kongkhao.blogspot.com

Accommodations VIENTIANE Bule lagoon resort Ban Tha Heua Tel: (856) 20-5530 4370 water-sport-;ao.com

Ban Pako On the Banks of Nam Ngum Reiver Side Tel: (856) 30 - 5525 79 37 banpako.com

Parkview Executive Suites Souphanouvong Rd Tel: (856)-21-250 888 parkviewexecutive.com

AV Hotel Samsenthai Rd Tel: (856) 21-265 085-6 Fax: (856) 21-265 084 avhotel.info

Accommodations Luang Prabang Nong Kiau River Side Resort & Restaurant Ban Sop Houn, Muang Ngoy Tel: (856) 71-810 004 nongkiau.com Mahout lodge Elephant camp Ban Nonsavath (Phou Xuang Area) Tel: (856) 030 5140525 mahoutlodge.com Luang Say Residience Hotel and Restaurant 4-5 Ban Phonepheng Tel: (856) 71-260 891 luangsayresidence.com

Ancient Luang Prabang Hotel , Cafe, Spa Sisavangvong Rd, Ban Bakham Tel: (856) 71 -212264 ancientluangprabang.com

Xieng khouang Makphet Modern Lao food.

Behind Wat Ong Teu Open: Mon-Sat 11am-2pm | 6pm-9pm

Martini Cocktail place & Salsa Thursday.

Rue Nokeokoummane Ban Mixay.

6pm-12pm

Nam Lik Eco Village Senxoum Tel: (856)-20-5550 87 19 malicafe@hotmail.com namlik.com

Champasak Kingfisher Ecolodge Ban Khiet Ngong (Phou Asa) Tel: (856) 20 -5726315 kingfisherecolodge.com

phouphadeng Ban Phonesavang, Muang Pek Tel/Fax: (856) 20-55999192 auberge_plainjars@yahoo.fr

Khammouane Inthira Hotel Hotel & Restaurant VangVieng | Thakhek | Champasak www.inthira.com

What’s New ອາບາຄາສ (ABACUS) ຂະຫຍາຍທຸລະກິດໃນອິນໂດຈີນຜ່ານການຮ່ວມທຸລະກິດກັບການບິນລາວ ABACUS EXPANDS PRESENCE IN INDOCHINA THROUGH LAO AIRLINES JOINT VENTURE

On September 14th, Abacus International, Asia’s leading provider of travel solutions and services, and Lao Airlines (QV), the national airline of Lao People’s Democratic Republic (PDR), celebrated the signing of a joint venture agreement, adding another significant milestone to Abacus’ presence in Asia Pacific.

This joint venture will see Abacus and Lao Airlines partnering for at least 10 years through to May 2021. The agreement will see the launch of Lao Abacus National Marketing Company (NMC) with joint shareholding, to provide a global distribution system for travel companies and travel agents in Laos.

Abacus-connected travel agents will exclusively have access to Lao Airlines’ database of a full range of air fares. Content from Lao Airlines will be added to Abacus’ unparalleled amount of fares, services and offerings of airlines, hotel properties and car rental companies. Abacus will also give Lao Airlines greater access to business and leisure travellers across the world and support the airline’s growth strategy in the region.

ວັນທີ 14 ກັນຍາ 2011, ທີ່ໂຮງແຮມດອນຈັນພາເລສ ບໍລິສັດອາບາຄາສອິນເທິເນເຊິນ ແນລ, ເຊິ່ງເປັນຜູນ ້ ໍາໃນການໃຫ້ບລ ໍ ກ ິ ານ ແລະ ການແກ້ໃຂບັນຫາກ່ຽວກັບການເດີນທາງ, ແລະ ການບິນລາວ (QV), ເຊິ່ງເປັນສາຍການບິນແຫ່ງຊາດຂອງ ສປປ ລາວ, ໄດ້ສະ ຫລອງການເຊັນສັນຍາຮ່ວມທຸລະກິດໃນມື້ນີ້, ເຊິ່ງເປັນຂີດໝາຍສໍາຄັນຂອງການຂະ ຫຍາຍທຸລະກິດຂອງບໍລິສັດອາບາຄາສຢູ່ອາຊີປາຊີຝິກ. ໃນການຮ່ວມທຸລະກິດໃໝ່ຄັ້ງນີ້ ອາບາຄາສ ແລະ ການບິນລາວຈະເປັນຫຸ້ນສ່ວນທຸລະ ກິດຮ່ວມກັນຢ່າງຕໍ່າເປັນເວລາ 10ປີ ຈົນເຖິງເດືອນພຶດສະພາ 2021, ໂດຍສາມາດ ຕໍ່ສັນຍາໄດ້ຕື່ມອີກ 5ປີ. ອີງຕາມສັນຍາຈະມີການສ້າງຕັ້ງບໍລິສັດອາບາຄາສການຕະ ຫລາດແຫ່ງຊາດ (NMC) ໂດຍການຖືຫຸ້ນຮ່ວມກັນລະຫ່ວາງສອງຝ່າຍ, ເພື່ອໃຫ້ບໍລິ ການລະບົບການຈັດຈໍາໝ່າຍ ທົ່ວໂລກສໍາລັບບໍລິສັດທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ແລະ ຕົວແທນທ່ອງ ທ່ຽວໃນປະເທດລາວ.

“Abacus sees Laos as a very important market given its rapid growth and development into the travel hub of Indochina region,” said Mr. Robert Bailey, President and CEO of Abacus International. “We are confident that our experience and commitment to this region will lend to this partnership with the view of increasing Lao Airlines ບໍລິສັດນໍາທ່ຽວທີ່ເຊື່ອມຕໍ່ກັບອາບາຄາສ ຈະສາມາດເຂົ້າຫາຖານຂໍ້ມູນລາຄາປີ້ຍົນຂອ distribution significantly.” ງການບິນລາວໄດ້. ຂໍ້ມູນຈາກການບິນລາວຈະຖືກລ່ວມໃສ່ກັບ ອັດຕາຄ່າບໍລິການໂດຍ Lao Airlines President Dr. Somphone Douangdara said, ສານຂອງອາບາຄາສ, ການບໍລິການ ແລະ ຂໍ້ສະເໜີຕ່າງໆຂອງສາຍການບິນ, ໂຮງແຮມ “we are extremely pleased with the new partnership ແລະ ບໍລິສັດເຊົ່າລົດ. ນອກຈາກນີ້ ອາບາຄາສ ຈະໃຫ້ການບິນລາວເຂົ້າເຖິງທຸລະກິດ with Abacus, as this signals Lao Airlines’ growing ambi- ຫລາຍຂຶ້ນ ແລະ ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວທົ່ວໂລກ ແລະ ສະໜັບສະໜູນຍຸດທະສາດຂະຫຍາຍທຸ tions in the travel industry, ability to implement new ລະກິດໃນພາກພື້ນຂອງສາຍການບິນ. cutting-edge travel technology and provide a much wider choice of travel options for our customers.” “ເນື່ອງຈາກເຂດອິນໂດຈີນມີການຈະເລີນເຕີບໂຕ ແລະ ການພັດທະນາເປັນສູນກາງ

ການທ່ອງທ່ຽວຢ່າງໄວວາ ອາບາຄາສ ຈຶ່ງເຫັນວ່າລາວເປັນຕະຫລາດແຫ່ງໜຶ່ງທີ່ມຄ ີ ວາມ ສໍາຄັນຫລາຍ,” ທ່ານ ໂຣເບິດ ໄບເລ (Robert Bailey), ປະທານແລະຜູ້ບໍລິຫານສູງສຸດ ຂອງບໍລິສັດອາບາຄາສອິນເທິເນເຊິນແນລໄດ້ກ່າວ. “ພວກເຮົາໝັ້ນໃຈວ່າປະສົບການ ແລະ ຄວາມໝຸ້ງໝັ້ນ ຂອງພວກເຮົາໃນພາກພື້ນນີ້ຈະເປັນຜົນດີຕໍ່ການຮ່ວມມືໃນຄັ້ງນີ້ ດ້ວຍວິໃສທັດເພີ່ມການຈັດຈໍາໜ່າຍຂອງ ສາຍການບິນ ລາວໃຫ້ຫລາຍຂຶ້ນ.” ທ່ານ ດຣ. ສົມພອນ ດວງດາລາ, ປະທານບໍລິສັດການບິນລາວ ຄິດວ່າການຮ່ວມທຸລະ ກິດຄັ້ງນີ້ຈະມີປະໂຫຍດໃນການຊ່ວຍສ້າງໃຫ້ການບິນລາວເປັນຜູ້ນໍາທີ່ເກີດຂຶ້ນໃໝ່ໃນ ຂົງເຂດການບິນ. “ພວກເຮົາມີຄວາມຍິນດີທສ ີ່ ດ ຸ ທີ່ໄດ້ເປັນຫຸນ ້ ສ່ວນກັບ ອາບາຄາສ, ເປັນ ສັນຍານເຖິງຄວາມຕ້ອງການຂະຫຍາຍທຸລະກິດຂອງການບິນລາວໃນອຸດສາຫະກໍາ ການບິນ, ສາມາດນໍາໃຊ້ເທັກໂນໂລຊີການບິນທີ່ທັນສະໃໝທີ່ສຸດແລະໃຫ້ທາງເລືອກ ຫລາຍຂຶ້ນແກ່ລູກຄ້າ,” ທ່ານ ດຣ. ສົມພອນ ໄດ້ກ່າວ.

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What’s New ການສຳເລັດກອງປະຊຸມຄົ້ນຄ້ວາການມີສ່ວນຮ່ວມຂອງຜູ້ດຳເນີນທຸລະກິດທີ່ກ່ຽວພັນກັບການບິນລາວ

Completion of workshop to inform businesses about Lao Airlines’ new aircrafts

50

A workshop between Lao Airlines Company and air ticket agencies, tour agencies, hotels, various companies and related organizations was held on August 22, 2011. The purpose of the workshop was to inform these businesses about Lao Airlines’ new aircrafts and new route expansion. The annual workshop is to exchange lessons learned and to listen to proposals and recommendations from the relevant businesses about ways to improve their business marketing and management policies going forward. It creates understanding between Lao Airlines and the tourism industry, especially on how to successfully implement their business plans, which will be mutually beneficial.

ເປັນກອງປະຊຸມລະຫວ່າງ ບໍລິສັດ ການບິນລາວ ແລະ ບໍລິສັດ ໂຕແທນຂາຍ ປີ້, ທ່ອງທ່ຽວ ໂຮງແຮມ ແລະ ບໍລິສັດຕ່າງໆ ການຈັດຕັ້ງທີ່ກ່ຽວພັນ. ເພື່ອ ແຈ້ງຂ່າວການນຳໃຊ້ເຮືອບິນໃໝ່ ແລະ ຂະຫຍາຍເສັ້ນທາງການບິນໃໝ່. ກອງປະຊຸມນີ້ແມ່ນໄດ້ຈັດຂຶ້ນ ໃນວັນທີ່ 22 ສີງຫາ 2011 ຜ່ານມາ. ຊື່ງໄດ້ ຈັດຂື້ນຢ່າງນ້ອຍປີລະຄັ້ງ. ຈຸດປະສົງຂອງກອງປະຊຸມແມ່ນພົບປະແລກ ປ່ຽນຖອດຖອນບົດ ຮຽນ ແລະ ຮັບຟັງຂໍ້ສະເໜີ, ຂໍ້ແນະນຳຂອງບັນດາຜູ້ດຳ ເນີນທຸລະ ກິດທີ່ກ່ຽວພັນ ເພື່ອນຳໄປຄົ້ນຄ້ວາປັບປຸງແກ້ໄຂໃຫ້ແທດເໝາະ ກັບແຜນນະໂຍບາຍດ້ານ ການຕະຫລາດ ແລະ ການບໍລິການໃນຕໍ່ໜ້າ. ເປັນການສ້າງຄວາມເຂົ້າ ໃຈຮ່ວມກັນທາງດ້ານປະຕິບັດ, ເຮັດໃຫ້ແຜນ ທຸລະກິດປະສົບຜົນສຳເຫລັດ ໂດຍຕ່າງຝ່າຍຕ່າງມີຜົນປະໂຫຍດຮ່ວມກັນ.

The key highlight of the workshop, as mentioned above, was to inform the association businesses in the travel and tour industry, concerned organizations and journalists about the new airbus aircrafts to serve passengers on various routes and the new route expansion.

ຈຸດເດັ່ນອັນໜຶ່ງຂອງກອງປະຊຸມຄັ້ງນີ້ ແມ່ນເພື່ອແຈ້ງໃຫ້ບັນດາຜູ້ດຳເນີນ ທຸລະກິດທີ່ກ່ຽວພັນ, ການຈັດຕັ້ງກ່ຽວຂ້ອງ ແລະ ນັກຂ່າວຊາບກ່ຽວກັບການ ນຳໃຊ້ເຮືອບິນອາຍພົ່ນເຂົ້າມາຮັບໃຊ້ການບໍລິ ການໃນເສັ້ນບິນຕ່າງໆ ແລະ ການຂະຫຍາຍເສັ້ນທາງບິນໃໝ່.

With the support of the State Party and the Government which have continuously provided guidance for Lao Airlines, the national carrier, to be strong, modern and able to compete in the market.

The Government has given the green light for Lao Airlines to purchase two airbus aircrafts (A320). The first one will be delivered in October 2011 and the second, in November 2011. The airbus A320 is a new aircraft ordered directly from the factory and can carry 142 passengers (16 seats for business class and 126 seats for economy class with an average cruising speed of 850 km/h).

ຍ້ອນຄວາມເອົາໃຈໃສ່ຂອງ ພັກ ແລະ ລັດຖະບານ ຊຶ່ງຍາມໃດ ກໍ່ເປັນຫ່ວງ ເປັນໄຍໃຫ້ການຊີ້ນຳເພື່ອເຮັດໃຫ້ການບິນລາວ ຊຶ່ງເປັນສາຍການບິນແຫ່ງ ຊາດໃຫ້ມີຄວາມເຂັ້ມແຂງ, ທັນສະໄໝ ແລະ ສາມາດແຂ່ງຂັນກັບຕະຫລາດ, ລັດຖະບານຈຶ່ງຕົກລົງໃຫ້ລັດ ວິສະຫະກິດການບິນລາວສັ່ງຊື້ເຮືອບິນອ່າຍ ພົ່ນ (A320) ຈຳນວນ 2 ລຳ ລຳທຳອິດຈະສົ່ງມອບໃນເດືອນ ຕຸລາ 2011 ແລະ ລຳທີ່ 2 ຈະສົ່ງມອບໃນເດືອນ ພະຈິກ 2011 ເຮືອບິນ A320 ເປັນເຮືອ ບິນໃໝ່ ສັ່ງຈາກໂຮງງານໂດຍກົງ, ສາມາດບັນຈຸຜູ້ໂດຍສານໄດ້ 142 ຄົນ (ຊັ້ນທຸລະກິດ 16 ບ່ອນ ແລະ ຊັ້ນທຳມະດາ 126 ບ່ອນ, ຄວາມໄວສະເລຍ 850 km/h).

Lao Airlines will use the new airbus aircrafts, instead of the current ATR aircrafts, on some international routes such as Vientiane – Bangkok, Vientiane – Hanoi, Vientiane – Kunming, Vientiane – Pakse – Ho Chi Minh and Vientiane – Luang Prabang – Vientiane. Additionally, plans for new routes such as Vientiane – Singapore, Vientiane – Guangzhou, Vientiane – Seoul (South Korea) are underway.

ການບິນລາວຈະນຳໃຊ້ເຮືອບິນດັ່ງກ່າວມາປ່ຽນແທນເຮືອບິນ ATR ບາງ ເສັ້ນບິນຕ່າງປະເທດ ເຊັ່ນ: ວຽງຈັນ-ບາງກອກ, ວຽງຈັນ -ຮ່າໂນ້ຍ, ວຽງຈັນຄຸນມິງ, ວຽງຈັນ-ປາກເຊ-ໂຮ່ຈິມິນ ແລະ ວຽງຈັນ -ຫລວງພະບາງ-ວຽງຈັນ, ພ້ອມນີ້ກໍ່ມີແຜນເປີດເສັ້ນທາງບິນໃໝ່ ເຊັ່ນ: ວຽງຈັນ-ສີງກະໂປ, ວຽງຈັນກວາງໂຈ, ວຽງຈັນ-ເຊອູນ (ເກົາຫລີ).

What’s New

For the Vientiane – Singapore route, to the first flight will be launched on the 1st of November 2011. On this route there will be three flights per week including Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays; departure from Vientiane at 15:10, arrive in Singapore at 17:20; on the return leg, departure from Singapore at 18:30 and arrive in Vientiane at 20:40. The promotion price starts at 2,900,000 LAK only. The routes from Vientiane – Guangzhou – Vientiane and Vientiane – Seoul – Vientiane are currently under market study and data collection. These routes are expected to open at the beginning of 2012.

In addition, Champa Holidays will provide a new tour package – Universal Singapore – for 3 days and 2 nights for only 4,440,000 LAK per person. The travel dates are on the 1st, 13th, and 27th of November 2011. Please contact us to reserve seats. ສຳລັບເສັ້ນບິນ ວຽງຈັນ-ສີງກະໂປ ພວກເຮົາມີແຜນເລີ່ມເປີດ ຖ້ຽວປະຖົມມະລືກ ໃນ ວັນທີ 01/11/2011, ໂດຍຈະເປີດ ອາທິດລະ 3 ຖ້ຽວ ຄື: ວັນຄານ, ພະຫັດ ແລະ ວັນອາທິດ ໂດຍອອກຈາກວຽງຈັນ ເວລາ 15:10ມ ເຖິງ ສີງກະໂປ 17:20ມ, ຂາກັບ ອອກຈາກສີງກະໂປ 18:30ມ ເຖິງວຽງຈັນ 20:40ມ, ລາຄາພິເສດເລີ່ມຕົ້ນພຽງ 2,900,000 ກີບ ສ່ວນເສັ້ນ ທາງວຽງຈັນ- ກວາງໂຈ-ວຽງຈັນ, ວຽງຈັນ-ໂຊນ-ວຽງຈັນ ປັດຈຸບັນກຳລັງສຶກສາ ແລະ ເກັບກຳຂໍ້ມູນດ້ານການຕະຫລາດ ຊື່ງຄາດກະຈະເປີດຕົ້ນປີ 2012. ນອກນັ້ນ ຈຳປາໂຮລິເດ ຍັງມີການເປີດລາຍການທ່ອງທຽ່ວໃໝ່ ຢູນິເວີໂຊລ ສີງກະໂປ 3 ວັນ 2 ຄືນ ລາຄາພຽງ 4,440,000 ກີບ/ທ່ານ ຊື່ງອອກເດີນທາງ ວັນທີ່ 1, 13, 27 ພະຈິກ 2011. ດັ່ງນັ້ນໃຜທີ່ກຳລັງຄິດຢາກຈະພາຄອບຄົວໄປພັກຜ່ອນກໍສາມາດ ຕິດຕໍ່ສຳຮອງທີ່ນັ່ງໄດ້.

ພິທີເປີດຫ້ອງການຂາຍສາຍການບີນລາວທີ່ປະເທດສີງກະໂປ

ທ່ອງທຽ່ວ ຢູນິເວີໂຊລ ທີ່ປະເທດສີງກະໂປ

51

52

53

INTERNATIONAL ROUTE Valid from 27 MAR 2011 to 30 OCT 2011

FLT No

AC

STP

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ບາງກອກ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV414 Daily VTE BKK QV415 Daily VTE BKK QV4571 Daily VTE BKK QV4575 Daily VTE BKK QV424 Daily BKK VTE QV425 Daily BKK VTE QV4570 Daily BKK VTE QV4574 Daily BKK VTE

Day

Routing

Dep

Vientiane - Bangkok - Vientiane 07:20 08:40 ` 16:30 17:50 13:50 14:55 21:45 22:50 09:40 11:00 18:50 20:10 11:45 12:55 19:50 21:00

Arr

AT7 AT7 737 737 AT7 AT7 737 737

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ຮາ່ ໂນຍ ້ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV312 Daily VTE HAN QV840 Daily VTE HAN QV322 Daily HAN VTE QV841 Daily HAN VTE

Vientiane - Hanoi - Vientiane 14:30 15:50 18:10 19:10 16:30 17:55 08:30 09:35

AT7 320 AT7 320

0 0 0 0

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ພະນ ົມເປັນ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV841 Daily VTE PNH QV840 Daily PNH VTE

Vientiane - Phnompenh - Vientiane 10:20 11:50 15:50 17:20

320 320

0 0

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ສຽມຣຽບ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV512 123.5.7 VTE REP QV522 123.5.7 REP VTE

Vientiane - Siemreap - Vientiane 06:30 09:25 10:05 13:00

AT7 AT7

PKZ PKZ

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ຄຸນມິງ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV817 Daily VTE KMG QV827 Daily KMG VTE

Vientiane - Kunming - Vientiane 06:40 08:50 10:50 12:00

AT7 AT7

0 0

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ໂຮຈ ິ ນ ິ - ວຽງຈ ັນ ່ ມ QV515 .2.4.6.

VTE SGN QV525 .2.4.6.

SGN VTE

Vientiane - Hochiminh - Vientiane 07:45 11:05 12:05 15:20

MA6 MA6

PKZ PKZ

ຫລວງພະບາງ - ຊຽງໃໝ່ - ຫລວງພະບາງ QV635 .23.567 LPQ CNX QV645 .23.567 CNX LPQ

Luang Prabang - Chieng Mai - Luang Prabang 13:10 14:10 15:00 16:00

AT7 AT7

0 0

ຫລວງພະບາງ - ບາງກອກ - ຫລວງພະບາງ QV633 Daily LPQ BKK QV643 Daily BKK LPQ

Luang Prabang - Bangkok - Luang Prabang 07:30 09:10 10:20 12:00

AT7 AT7

0 0

ຫລວງພະບາງ - ສຽມຣຽບ - ຫລວງພະບາງ QV513 1..4.6.

LPQ REP QV869 123.56.

LPQ REP QV523 1..4.6.

REP LPQ QV868 123.56.

REP LPQ

Luang Prabang - Siemreap - Luang Prabang 10:50 14:20 10:30 12:10 15:00 18:30 12:50 14:30

MA6 F70 MA6 F70

PKZ 0 PKZ 0

ຫລວງພະບາງ - ຮາ່ ໂນຍ ້ - ຫລວງພະບາງ QV313 .2.4567 LPQ HAN QV868 123.56.

LPQ HAN QV323 .2.4567 HAN LPQ QV869 123.56.

HAN LPQ

Luang Prabang - Hanoi - Luang Prabang 16:40 17:40 15:10 16:00 18:25 19:25 08:55 09:50

AT7 F70 AT7 F70

0 0 0 0

ປາກເຊ - ສຽມຣຽບ - ປາກເຊ QV512 123.5.7 PKZ REP QV513 1..4.6.

PKZ REP QV522 123.5.7 REP PKZ QV523 1..4.6.

REP PKZ

Pakse - Siemreap - Pakse 08:25 09:25 13:20 14:20 10:05 11:05 15:00 16:00

AT7 AT7 AT7 AT7

0 0 0 0

ປາກເຊ - ບາງກອກ - ປາກເຊ QV213 ..3.5.7 QV223 ..3.5.7

PKZ BKK BKK PKZ

Pakse - Bangkok - Pakse 09:25 12:10 13:10 15:45

MA6 MA6

ZVK ZVK

ປາກເຊ - ໂຮຈິມນ ິ - ປາກເຊ QV515 .2.4.6.

QV525 .2.4.6.

PKZ SGN SGN PKZ

Pakse - Hochiminh - Pakse 09:30 11:05 12:05 13:35

MA6 MA6

0 0

ສະຫວ ັນນະເຂດ - ບາງກອກ - ສະຫວ ັນນະເຂດ QV213 ..3.5.7 ZVK BKK QV223 ..3.5.7 BKK ZVK

Savannakhet - Bangkok - Savannakhet 10:50 12:10 13:10 14:30

MA6 MA6

0 0

DOMESTIC ROUTE

Valid from 27 MAR 2011 to 30 OCT 2011 FLT No

Days

Routing

Dep

Arr

Ac

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ຫລວງພະບາງ

QV101 QV103 QV109

1234567 1234567 1234567

VTE LPQ VTE LPQ VTE LPQ

Vientiane - Luang Prabang 11:50 12:30 AT7 16:30 17:10 AT7 09:30 10:10 MA6

ຫລວງພະບາງ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV102 QV104 QV110 QV110

1234567 1234567 1..4.6. .23.5.7

LPQ VTE LPQ VTE LPQ VTE LPQ VTE

Luang Prabang - Vientiane 13:10 13:50 17:50 18:30 19:10 19:50 10:40 11:20

ຫລວງພະບາງ - ປາກເຊ - ຫລວງພະບາງ QV513 QV523

1..4.6.

1..4.6.

AT7 AT7 MA6 MA6

..3.5.7 ..3.5.7

VTE ZVK ZVK VTE

..3.5.7 ..3.5.7

PKZ ZVK ZVK PKZ

Vientiane - Savannakhet - Vientiane 07:30 10:00 MA6 15:10 17:40 MA6

PKZ PKZ

Pakse -Savannakhet - Pakse

09:25 15:10

10:00 15:45

MA6 MA6

0 0

Vientiane - Pakse - Vientiane 06:30 07:45 AT7 07:30 08:25 MA6 07:45 09:00 MA6 11:45 13:00 AT7 16:25 17:40 MA6 14:05 15:20 MA6

0 0 0 0 0 0

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ປາກເຊ - ວຽງຈ ັນ

QV512 QV201 QV515 QV522 QV202 QV525

123.5.7 ..3.5.7 .2.4.6.

123.5.7 ..3.5.7 .2.4.6.

VTE PKZ VTE PKZ VTE PKZ PKZ VTE PKZ VTE PKZ VTE

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ອຸດ ົມໄຊ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV501 QV502

.2.4.6. .2.4.6.

VTE ODY ODY VTE

Vientiane - Oudomxay - Vientiane 13:20 14:10 AT7 14:50 15:40 AT7

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ຫວ ້ ຍຊາຍ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV901 QV902

.2.4.6. .2.4.6.

VTE HOE HOE VTE

Vientiane - Houeysay - Vientiane 13:10 14:05 MA6 14:45 15:40 MA6

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ຫລວງນຳ້ ທາ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV601 QV602

1.3.5..

1.3.5..

VTE LXG LXG VTE

Vientiane - Luang Namtha - Vientiane 12:30 13:30 MA6 14:10 15:10 MA6

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ຊຽງຂວາງ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV401 QV402

1.3.5.7 1.3.5.7

Remark: All times are local time

1: Monday

2: Tuesday

3: Wednesday

4: Thursday

5: Friday

6: Saturday

7: Sunday

VTE XKH XKH VTE

0 0 0 0 0 0

ປາກເຊ - ສະຫວ ັນນະເຂດ - ປາກເຊ

QV213 QV223

0 0 0

Luang Prabang - Pakse - Luang Prabang 10:50 12:40 MA6 16:40 18:30 MA6

LPQ PKZ PKZ LPQ

ວຽງຈ ັນ - ສະຫວ ັນນະເຂດ - ວຽງຈ ັນ QV201 QV202

STP

Vientiane - Xiengkhouang - Vientiane 13:20 13:50 AT7 14:30 15:00 AT7

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2 Pangkham Rd., P.O. Box: 6441 Vientiane Lao P.D.R Tel: 856-21 212057, 856-21 212051-54 Fax: 856-21 2065, 856-21 2056 www.laoairlines.com

LAO AIRLINES OFFICES

VIENTIANE HEAD OFFICE

02 PANGKHAM STREET, P.O BOX 6441 Tel: ( 856- 21 ) 212057 Fax : ( 856 21 ) 212065 www.laoairlines.com TICKET & RESERVATION

Tel: ( 856 – 21 ) 212051-54 Fax : ( 856 – 21 ) 212056 Email: reservation@laoairlines.com, ticketing@laoairlines.com AIRPORT OFFICE

Tel: ( 856-21 ) 512028 ( International Airport ) Tel: ( 856-21 ) 512 000, 512 004 ( Domestic Airport )

AREA LAOS

THAILAND

VIETNAM

LUANGPRABANG ( LPQ ) Tel : ( 856-71 ) 212172 Fax : ( 856-71 ) 212406 Email : addy@laoairlines.com Tel : ( 856-71) 212173 ( Airport ) Fax : ( 856- 71 ) 252264 Email : lpq@laoairlines.com

BANGKOK Town office 491/17 ground Fl, Silom plaza Silom road ,Bangkok 10500 Tel: ( 66-2 ) 236 9822, 2369823,

237 8044 Fax: ( 66-2 ) 236 9821 Email: bkkrrqv@ksc.th.com

HANOI No 40 QUANGTRUNG STR. HANOI VIETNAM Tel: 84-4 942 5362 FAX: 84-4 942 5363 Sita: HANTOQV Email: laoairlines.han@fpt.vn

LUANGNAMTHA ( LXG ) Tel : ( 856-86 ) 212072 FaX : ( 856-86 ) 212073 Email : lxg@laoairlines.com Tel : ( 856-86 ) 312180,

312053 ( Airport ) OUDOMXAY ( ODY ) Tel : ( 856- 81 ) 312047, 312146 Fax : ( 856 -81 ) 212229 Email : ody@laoairlines.com

Airport office 2nd Floor of AOB building Room No. Z010 Tel: (662) 134 2006 to 2008 Fax.: (662) 134 2009 Check in counter No. 7/10 (Opposite of Check-in row “R” Tel: (662) 134 2010 Fax: (662) 134 2011

XIENGKHUANG ( XKH ) Tel : ( 856 – 61) 312027 Fax : ( 856 – 61 ) 312487 Email : xiengkhouang@laoairlines.com Tel : ( 856-61) 312177 ( Airport )

CHIANGMAI 2/107 Rajchapuak,Huaykew Road Amper muang Chiangmai 50300 Tel: ( 66-53 ) 223 401 Fax: ( 66-53 ) 223 400 Sita: CNXRRQV Email: qvcnx@loxinfo.co.th

HOUEISAY ( HOE ) Tel : ( 856 – 84 ) 211026 Fax : ( 856 – 84 ) 211471 Email : hoe@laoairlines.com Tel : ( 856 – 84 ) 211494 ( Airport )

UDON THANI Udon Thani Airport Tel /Fax: 66- 42 931 559 Email : qvuth@laoairlines.com

PAKSE ( PKZ ) Tel : ( 856 – 31) 212252 Fax ( 856 – 31) 212751 Email : pkztoqv@laotel.com Tel: ( 856 – 31 ) 251460 ( Airport ) SAVANNAKHET ( ZVK ) Tel: ( 856-41 ) 212140, Fax: ( 856-41 ) 251060 Email : zvk@laoairlines.com

CAMBODIA PHNOMPENH 58 B Sihanouk Avenue Phnompenh Tel: (855-23 ) 222956 Fax: ( 855-23 ) 216 563 Sita: PNHRRQV laoairline.qvpnh@online.com.kh SIEM REAP 114 Sala Khanseng Village, road no 6 Svay Dongkhom Commune, Siem Reap District, Siem Reap Province Tel: ( 855-63 ) 963 283, 963169 Fax: ( 855-63 ) 963283 Email: qvrep@camitel.com CHINA

KUNMING No 96 East Dong Feng Road, Camellia Hotel, Kunming, Yunnan, China 650041 Tel : +86 871 3163000 ext 5166 P.T. Air Cargo Co.,Ltd. ( For Cargo ) Tel/Fax: +86 871 3125748 Building 301, Room 427-428, Mobile: +86 13987182913 Customs Free Zone Suvarnabhumi E-mail : KUNMING@laoairlines.com, Airport, 999 Moo 7, Rachathewa, Bangphli, Samutprakan 10540 Tel : 66-02-1346721 (Auto) Fax : 66-02-1346453-4 E-mail : adulp@ptcargo.com

APG Global Associates in Europe Offices UNITED KINGDOM (UK) Lao Airlines Axis House 242 Bath Road Heathrow Middlesex UB3 5AY United Kingdom Tel : +44 (0) 844 482 2318 Fax : +44 (0) 844 482 1668 E-mail : laoairlines@apg-ga.co.uk

GERMANY Lao Airlines Leonhardstraße 22 61169 Friedberg Tel : + 49 6031 737630 Fax : + 49 6031 725081 E-mail : laoairlines@gpgermany.com

FRANCE Lao Airlines c/o APG - 66 avenue des Champs Elysées - 75008 Paris Tel : + 33 1 53 77 13 13 Fax : + 33 1 53 77 13 05 E-mail : laoairlines@apg.fr

SPAIN Gran Via Corts Catalanes 617 08009 BARCELONA Tel : + 34 933188443 Fax : + 34 934813833 E-mail : laoairlines@bcnair.com

SWEDEN Lao Airlines Europe Box 22308 Kungsholmsgatan 10 104 22 Stockholm, Sweden Tel : + 46 8 545 91 668 Fax : + 46 8 612 05 92 E-mail : sales.europe@lao-airlines.com

MALAYSIA MAPLE AVIATION PTE, LTD CP57 SUITE 1705 17th floor CENTRAL PLAZA JALAN SULTAN ISMAIL 50250 KUALA LUMPUR TEL : ( 60 ) 321443101 / 3077 FAX : ( 60 ) 321429392 Email : maple_kl@tm.net.my

ISRAEL Euromart, 29 Ben Yehuda St. Tel Aviv Israel P.O.Box - 3254 Tel Aviv Israel, Tel +972 3 7952127 Mobil tel nbr is +972 52 5442354 Fax : +972 3 6005919 Email : euromart@netvision.net.il JAPAN ATB., Ltd 6F WANAMI BLDG, 1-4-5 NIHOMBASHI KAYABA-CHO, CHUO-KU, TOKYO, JAPAN 103-0025 TEL : ( 81-3 ) 5623 3858 FAX: ( 81-3 ) 5623 3859 E-mail : qv@lao-airlines.jp ,

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SINGAPORE MAPLE AVIATION PTE,LTD 133 NEW BRIDGE ROAD # 14-05 CHINA TOWN POINT SINGAPORE 059413 TEL: ( 65 ) 65383787, 65385515 FAX: ( 65 ) 65383183 maplessin@singnet.com.sg SITA : SINGSCO TAIWAN Taiwan Orchid Express Inc. 11F, No25, Chang An E Rd., Sec1, Taipei, Taiwan Tel: 886-2-25682121, Fax: 886-2-25213991 E-mail: info@toe.com.tw U S A ( PSA ) GOOD LUCK TOUR AND TRAVEL 2021 THE ALANMEDA SUIT 199 SAN JOSE CA 95126 TEL: 408-243 7628 Fax: 408-243 8168 Email: goodlucktour@gmail.com UNIVERSAL TRAVEL 4400 47th AVENUE, SACRAMENTO, CA 95824 Tel: ( 916 ) 429- 2711 Fax: ( 916 ) 429-1910 Email : univerasltvl@aol.com

EXCELTRAVEL 4885E, Kings canyon, Fresno CA 93727, USA Tel ( 559 ) 455 19159 Fax ( 559 ) 455 1965 exceltravelus@yahoo.com S N T TOURS & TRAVEL 1151 N EUCLID ST # B ANAHEIM CA 92801 Tel : 714-991-7801 Fax : 714-991-7808 Mobile: 714-313-2356 Email : snttravels@yahoo.com US GATEWAY TRAVEL 4100 Spring Valley Road, suite 202 Dallas, TX 75244 Tel : 972-503-7888 Fax: 972-934-4612 Email : gttdfw@gtttravel.com; US GATEWAY TRAVEL ( GTT International ) 1300 Godward St. N.E. Suite 3120 Minneapolis, MN 55413 Tel: 612-872-4931 Fax: 612-872-4932 hanna.msp@gtttravel.com

AVIATION GSA CO. 1065 Budapest Nagymezo utca47 Tel:(361)3022484, 3541849 Fax:(361)354 1848 mobile:(36)306977353 rsardi@t-online.hu

LA

Vientiane Capital of Lao PDR

OS

Vientiane

Vientiane is Southeast Asia’s most laid-back capital. This city boasts outstanding French colonial architecture and low level buildings spread throughout the city, exuding its rich cultural heritage and relaxed atmosphere. Life in this pleasant capital is slow-paced. We explore this small, peaceful capital at a leisurely pace, visiting some of the finest and most important historical sites in Laos.

How to get to Vientiane on Lao Airlines?

From Bangkok, there are two daily flights. There are daily flights from Hanoi / Kunming / Siem Reap. From Ho Chi Minh, three flights a week (Tue, Thu & Sat).

Vientiane Free & Easy Stay-3 days Day 1: Arrival in Vientiane (B) Code: CPH71 Enjoy the Free & Easy Stay package to Vientiane Capital, which includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodation at a hotel of your choice with breakfast, round trip airport transfer and a half day tour.

Vientiane Stop-Over-3 days Code: CPH72 Vientiane Stop-Over tour includes a round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, transportation in private car, hotel accommodation in a twin shared room with breakfast, English speaking guide, admission fee to indicated sights, Government tax and service charge and tour program are below:

Opon arrival in Vientiane, you will be met and transferred to a centrally located hotel. Vientiane is a charming and fascinating capital, with an interesting mix of Lao, Thai, Chinese, Vietnamese, French, and American influences. After a short rest, we begin visiting the major sights of the capital, including Vat Sisaket, the oldest temple with thousands of miniature Buddha statues, and the former royal temple of Vat Prakeo, which previously housed the famous Emerald Buddha.

Enroute to Lao’s national icon, the precious and sacred structure of That Luang Stupa, you will have the opportunity to take pictures of the imposing Patuxay Monument, which is known as Vientiane’s own Arc de Triumph.

We’ll end the day by the Mekong riverside for a relaxing stroll and admire the sunset.

Overnight in Vientiane (B)

Day 2: Vientiane – Nam Ngum Lake

After breakfast, we head out of the city to make our way to Nam Ngum, a huge reservoir created by the damming of the Nam Ngum River. On the way to Nam Ngum Lake, we’ll stop at Ban Keun, which is famous for its salt extraction plant and a village that distills the local Lao whiskey.

On arrival at Nam Ngum Lake, we embark on a long tail boat to visit fishing villages in the various islets. We take a short walk to explore the lifestyle of the local fishermen. After that we’ll have lunch. On the return drive to Vientiane, [if time permits], perhaps you might want to experience gambling at the Lao casino located in the valley where you can also enjoy a beautiful view of the lake. We return to Vientiane by late evening. Overnight in Vientiane (B)

Day 3: Vientiane-Departure After breakfast, we visit the Morning Market which has a range of Lao made products, from silk, handicrafts, silver jewelry, clothing, etc. (if time permits). The tour ends after you’re transfer to the airport for departure. (B)

For more information please contact Champa holidays tour or Lao Airlines offices Tel: ( 856-21 ) 219932, Fax: ( 856-21 ) 212058, Mobile: 22413161, 22224884 Email: info@laoairlines.com, sales@champaholidays.com, www.champaholidays.com

Pakse City (Champasak) Pakse Stop-Over-3 Days Code: Champa 3.2

Day1: Arrival-Pakse to Don Khone On arrival at Pakse, drive out towards Khong Island. On the way we make a short detour to visit Pha Suam Vaterfall and to explore the Lao Teung ethnic minority villages. We continue our journey by motorboat to Don Khong, the largest island in the southern part of the Mekong river region known as the 4,000 islands, one of the most scenic areas in Laos. Overnight in Don Khong. (L/D)

Day 3: Pakse - Departure after breakfast, at your leisure or shopping, then transfer to airport. (B)

Package includes: - Roundtrip on Lao Airlines air ticket - Two nights accommodation in hotel in a twin sharing room; daily breakfast - Transportation in private car - English speaking guide - Admission fee to indicated sights

Day 2: Khong Island to Done Khone Pakse Free & Easy Stay-3 Days to Pakse Following breakfast, we enjoy a visit to the surrounding countryside, and embark on a longtail boat tour of the Don Khone area, which takes you to visit the remains of the French colonial period and Liphi Vaterfall or “the Corridor of the Devil”. We return to the mainland at the fishing village of Ban Nakasang and drive further south to visit Khone Phapheng. Khone Phapheng is considered the largest Vaterfall by volume in South east Asia; this is an impressive attraction near the Lao-Cambodian border, set within an area which is teeming with wildlife, making it one of the most breathtaking destinations in Laos. Afterwards we drive back to Pakse.

Overnight in Pakse. (B/L/D)

Code : Champa 3.1

Enjoy the Free & Easy Stay package in Pakse, the southern city of Laos. You can make a connection flight on Lao Airlines flight from Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh, Luang Prabang and Vientiane.

Day 1: Meet at Pakse airport and transfer to hotel for check-in and relaxation.

Day 2: Enjoy breakfast at hotel and free time or you may contact hotel counter for city tour yourself.

Package includes: - Roundtrip Lao Airlines air ticket - Two nights accommodation at hotel Daily breakfast - Round trip airport transfer

Pakse Splendid We explore the beautiful region of Pakse, located in the southern part of Laos, also home to the famous Ancient Khmer ruins of Vat Phou from the 5th Century and the aweinspiring Khone Phapheng Vaterfall, the biggest in Southeast Asia! The surrounding forests teem with flourishing vegetation and you will be greeted by the friendly locals as we visit a few villages. You will take a trip to the Bolaven Plateau, which will provide you with a refreshing break from the heat and allow you to observe the cultivation of rich coffee, tea and other crops.

On Pakse on Lao Airlines flights from Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Siem Reap, Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh. Direct flights are available from Ho Chi Minh to Pakse as follows: Tue, Thu, Sat – Depart at 11:45 and arrive at 13:45. Pakse to Ho Chi Minh: Tue, Thu, Sat– Depart at 09:15 and arrive at 10:45.

Day 3: After breakfast, free time and transfer to airport for check in and fly back to your next destination.

For more information please contact Champa holidays tour or Lao Airlines offices Tel: ( 856-21 ) 219932, Fax: ( 856-21 ) 212058, Mobile: 22413161, 22224884 Email: info@laoairlines.com, sales@champaholidays.com, www.champaholidays.com

Luang Prabang World Heritage City Luang Prabang has a beautiful and tranquil dream-like setting with a fusion of foreign influences and splendid landscape and scenery, making this an idyllic, unspoiled and charming destination for visitors. It is no wonder this amazing city has been declared a World Heritage City by UNESCO. The ancient city was the former capital of Laos, with a reign of more than 63 kings over 600 years. Luang Prabang is known as the ‘Thousand Pagoda City’ and there are countless intriguing architectural highlights in this sleepy and once royal capital.

How to get to Luang Prabang?

Lao Airlines has direct flights from Bangkok, Chiangmai and Hanoi daily; three times a week from Siem Reap; three flights daily from Vientiane.

Day 1: Arrival-Luang Prabang Luang Prabang Free & Easy Stay-3 Days Code: CPH11 Enjoy the Free & Easy Stay package in the World Heritage City of Laos which includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodations in a hotel room of your choice with daily breakfast, round trip airport transfer and half day city tour.

Luang Prabang Stop-Over-3 Days Code: CPH12 Luang Prabang Stop-Over tour includes a round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, transportation in private car, accommodation in a twin shared room with breakfast, English speaking guide, admission fee to indicated sights, and government taxes and service charges. The tour program is as follows:

Arrival at Luang Prabang airport you will be met and transferred to your hotel. After a short rest, we will visit the impressive stupa of Vat Visoun and the shrine of Vat Aham and Vat Mai. We then climb up to the top of Mount Phousi for an enjoyable exploration of the sacred, gilded stupa as well as a beautiful sunset view of the city and the Mekong River. From there, we explore the Night Market, where you can find a lovely selection of handmade textiles made by hilltribe groups and local people from the surrounding area of Luang Prabang. Overnight in Luang Prabang.

Day 2: Luang Prabang-Pak Ou Cave On this day, we enjoy a short-guided tour to see the city’s oldest temples of Vat Sene and the magnificent Vat Xiengthong with its roofs sweeping low to the ground, representing classical Laotian architecture.

We then embark on a cruise upstream on the Mekong River, which also gives us a breathtaking view of the tranquil coun-

tryside as well as time to explore the mysterious Pak Ou Caves, two linked caves crammed with thousands of gold lacquered Buddha statues of various shapes and sizes left by pilgrims. Along the way, we will stop at the village of Ban Xanghai, where the local rice wine is produced. On return, we’ll take a short drive to another small village, Ban Phanom, which is famous for its hand weaving. Overnight in Luang Prabang. (B)

Day3: Luang Prabang-Departure Visit the National Museum (closed Tuesdays) at the former Royal Palace. It displays a collection of artifacts reflecting the richness of Lao culture dating from the days of the early kings right through to the last reign. There will also be time to look around the Central Market. After visiting these sights in the morning, there may be free time (depending on your flight) to venture into town and stroll around the shopping area. The tour ends after your transfer to the airport for departure. (B)

For more information please contact Champa Holidays Tour or Lao Airlines offices Tel: ( 856-21 ) 219932, Fax: ( 856-21 ) 212058, Mobile: 22413161, 22224884 Email: info@laoairlines.com, sales@champaholidays.com, www.champaholidays.com

Luang Prabang World Heritage City Luang Prabang Wonder-4 Days

Day 2: Luang Prabang-Pak Ou Cave

Code: CPH13 Enjoy Luang Prabang Wonder – 4 days and 3 nights which includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, transportation in private car and accommodation in a twin shared room with daily breakfast, English speaking guide, admission fees to indicated sights, government taxes and service charges. The tour program is as follows:

Day 1: Arrival-Luang Prabang Upon arrival, you will be met and transferred to your hotel. Luang Prabang has been claimed by UNESCO to be ‘the best preserved city in Southeast Asia’. During your time here, we’ll visit the impressive stupa of Vat Visoun and the shrines of Vat Aham and Vat Mai. We then climb up to the top of mount Phousi for an enjoyable exploration of the sacred, gilded stupa as well as a panoramic view of the city at sunset and the Mekong River. From there, we explore the Night Market, where you can find a lovely selection of handmade textiles made by local and hilltribe people from the surrounding areas of Luang Prabang. Overnight in Luang Prabang. (B)

Enjoy a short-guided tour to see the city’s oldest temple of Vat Sene and the magnificent Vat Xiengthong with its roofs sweeping low to the ground, representing classical Laotian architecture. We then embark on a cruise upstream on the Mekong River, which also gives us a breathtaking view of the tranquil countryside as well as time to explore the mysterious Pak Ou Caves, two linked caves crammed with thousands of gold lacquered Buddha statues of various shapes and sizes left by pilgrims. Along the way, we stop at the village of Ban Xanghai, where they make the local rice wine. On return, we take a short drive to Ban Phanom, a small village known for its hand weaving. Overnight in Luang Prabang. (B)

Day 3: Luang Prabang-Khouangsi Vaterfall An optional early start gives you the fantastic opportunity to participate in the daily morning rituals of saffron-clad monks collecting offerings of Alms (often in the form of sticky rice) from faithful residents. This tradition is very unique in Laos, being the only Buddhist nation still preserving the ritual. From there, you will visit the morning Phousi Market, where you will see such diverse offerings as dried buffalo skin, local tea and saltpeter among the chickens, vegetables and hilltribe weavings.

Laos is also known for its traditional crafts, and this day you will visit local villages of Lao ethnic minority groups at Ban Ouay, a Hmong village, Ban Ou, Lao Oum Village and Ban Thapene, which are Khmu villages. This then takes us to the beautiful Khouangsi Vaterfall where you can cool off with a refreshing swim in the pools or walk along the forest trails.

On the return trip to Luang Prabang by late afternoon, we continue to Ban Xangkhong, a village well known for its silk weavings and for its Saa (jute) Papermaking. We return to the city by late evening to admire the sunset at Vat Siphouthabath. Overnight in Luang Prabang. (B)

Day 4: Luang Prabang-Departure Visit the National Museum (closed Tuesdays) at the former Royal Palace. It displays a collection of artifacts reflecting the richness of Lao culture dating from the days of the early kings right through to the last reign. There will also be time for us to look around the Central Market.

After visiting these sights in the morning, there may be free time (depending on your flight) to venture into town and stroll around the shopping area. The tour ends after your transfer to the airport for departure. (B)

For more information please contact Champa Holidays Tour or Lao Airlines offices Tel: ( 856-21 ) 219932, Fax: ( 856-21 ) 212058, Mobile: 22413161, 22224884 Email: info@laoairlines.com, sales@champaholidays.com, www.champaholidays.com

Ho Chi Minh City - Vietnam Formerly known as Saigon How to get to Ho Chi Minh City?

You may take Lao Airlines flight from Vientiane or Pakse to Hochiminh on Tue, Thu & Sat. Ho Chi Minh Free & Easy Stay-3 days Code: CPH61 Enjoy the Free & Easy Stay package in the historical Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) which includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, two nights accommodation in a three star hotel with daily breakfast, round trip airport transfer and a half-day tour in Ho Chi Minh city.

Ho Chi Minh-Mekong Delta-3 Days Code: CPH62 The Ho Chi Minh Mekong Delta 3 days and 2 nights package includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodation in a twin sharing room, daily breakfast and one lunch at the hotel, transportation in private car, entrance fees to tourist sites and a one-day tour of the Mekong Delta including tour guide as follows:

Day 1: Meet on arrival at Tan San Airport

and transfer to hotel for check-in and then free time or shopping.

sightseeing and observing the daily activities of local people, taking a paddle boat along the small canal, visiting a bee farm, orchards, enjoying tea, honey, seasonal fruits, sweets, amateur traditional music performances, touring a coconut candy mill and then lunch on the island. On the way back, stop for shopping.

Day 3: Depart Ho Chi Minh (B) After breakfast at hotel , free time or shopping and transfer to Tan Son Nhat airport for your departure flight.

Ho Chi Minh Vung Tau 3 Days Code: CPH63 Ho Chi Minh Vung Tau 3 days and 2 nights includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodation in a twin sharing room, full meals, transportation in private car, entrance fees to tourist sites, tour guide and tour program as follows:

Day 1:

Arrive Ho Chi Minh – CITY TOUR (L,D)

Day 2: Ho Chi Minh – Mekong Delta – Ho Arrive Ho Chi Minh by QV515 at 10:45.

Chi Minh (Meals: B/L)

After breakfast, depart at 8:00 am, driving to the Mekong Delta, nicknamed the large rice basket of Vietnam. This day includes visiting Vinh Trang pagoda, cruising on the Mekong river to an island for

Welcome by friendly guide then transfer to hotel. Buffet lunch provided by hotel.

PM: City tour – visit local neighborhoods and landmarks such as China Town, Thien Hau Pagoda, Remnant War Museum, Reunification Hall (Formerly Presidential Pal-

ace), Opera House, City Hall, stop at the Main Post Office & Notre Dame Cathedral for pictures. On the way back to the hotel, stop at a lacquer ware factory for shopping. Back to hotel and enjoy a set dinner at Sapphire Hotel.

Day 2: HCMC – VUNG TAU – HCMC (L, D) Depart in the morning for Vung Tau, a famous tourist spot. Free for swimming and sea bathing at Mariana Club. Set lunch at the local seafood restaurant. Visit memorial statue of Saint George (30 m high) on Small Mountain - the highest Saint statue in VietNam; visit Niet Ban Tinh Xa, the most beautiful pagoda in Vung Tau on a hillside facing the sea. On the way back to HCMC, stop at Long Thanh to buy fruits of the season. Arrival HCMC, enjoy a set dinner on a Saigon floating restaurant. Transfer back to hotel for leisure time.

Day 3: HO CHI MINH – VIENTIANE Free time until transfer to airport for a flight at 11:45 am. End of service.

Amazing Angkor, Siem Reap - Cambodia How to get to Angkor Vat? You may take Lao Airlines flight from Vientiane or Pakse with daily service or depart from Luang Prabang on Mon, Thu & Sat.

Angkor Vat Free & Easy Stay3 Days, 2 Nights Code: CPH41 Enjoy the Free & Easy Stay package in Siem Reap city which includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodation in a three/four star hotel with daily breakfast and round trip airport transfer.

Amazing Angkor Vat Full Package - 3 Days, 2 Nights Code: CPH42 Visit the Amazing Angkor city on a 3 days and 2 nights package with Champa Holidays which includes roundtrip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodation in a twin sharing hotel room, meals, transportation (car, van or bus), entrance fees to tourist sites, English/Thai speaking guide and tour program as follows:

Day 1: Arrive – Siem Reap (L/D) Arrive at Siem Reap International Airport and transfer to hotel for check-in and visit the National Museum then have lunch. In the afternoon, visit the Vat Thmei Artisan Angkor, Old Market, then have dinner at Koulen II Restaurant with Apsara Dance show. After dinner, visit the Night Market, then back to hotel.

Day 2: Angkor Thom (B/L/D ) After breakfast at hotel, visit South Gate of Angkor Thom, Bayon temples, Bapuon, Phimenakas, Terrace of Elephant and Leper King. In the afternoon, visit Ta Prum temple, Takeo, Angkor Vat temple and Vatch the sunset over Bakheng Hill, dinner and back to hotel.

Day 3: Siem Reap – Pakse/Vientiane (B) Breakfast at hotel, visit old market and transfer to Siem Reap International Airport to fly back.

Angkor Vat - Phnom Penh Sihanoukville Full Package - 6 Days, 5 Nights Code: CPH42 Day 1: Arrive Siem Reap (L/D) Arrive at Siem Reap International airport and transfer to hotel for check-in. Lunch at Sophea Angkor Pich Restaurant then visit South Gate of AngkorThom , Terrace of Elephant, Angkor Vat and Vatch the sunset over Bakheng Hill, dinner at Kolen II Restaurant.

Day 2: Tonle Sap Lake – Phnom Penh (B/L/D) At 7:30 am guide and van pick up to visit the Tonle Sap Lake, and have an early lunch at Kolen II restaurant. At 12:00 noon depart by van to Phnom Penh and checkin to a three star hotel and have dinner at the Tonle Basac restaurant.

Day 3: City tour Phnom Penh – Sihanoukville (B/L/D) At 8:00 am guide and van pick up to visit the Royal Palace, museum, the killing fields, and have lunch at Tonle Basac restaurant and at 1:00 pm depart by van to Sihanoukville and check-in to Hotel Golden Sand, then have dinner at the Beach Restaurant.

Day 4: Sihanoukville At 8:00 am guide and van will pick up to Ream Beach. Lunch at Beach Restaurant and in the afternoon visit the Ochheuteal beach, then have dinner at a beach restaurant.

Day 5: Sihanoukville – Siem Reap (B/L/D) At 8:00 am visit Sihanoukville Market and lunch at Tonle Basac Restaurant, and drive back to Siem Reap, check-in to hotel and have dinner at Sophea Angkor Pich Restaurant.

Day 6: Siem Reap – Pakse/ VTE (B) Breakfast at hotel, visit old market and transfer to Siem Reap International Airport to your next destination.

Jinghong-China Visit Jinghong , Xishuang Banna Located in the south of Yunnan Province, Jinghong is the political, economic and cultural center of Xishuang Banna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, which is a supernatural oasis in southwest China, while Jinghong is a bright pearl in the oasis.

Attractions in Xishuang Banna Known for its tropical flowers, plants, and garden, attractions in Xishuang Banna include the Meng Tropical Botanical Garden, tropical rain forest valley, Mengle great Buddhist monastery, Mengle cultural park, Manting park, Dai ethnic garden, wild elephant ravine, south medicinal plants garden, the virgin forest park and Mengjinglai village and more.

How to get to Jinghong?

Travel with Lao Airlines direct flight from Luang Prabang on Friday and Sunday or on a connecting flight from Vientiane.

Jinghong Free & Easy Stay3 Days, 2 Nights Code: CPH51 Enjoy and relax with the Free & Easy Stay package in Jinghong Xishuang Banna which includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodation in a four star hotel with daily breakfast and airport transfer.

Jinghong Stop-Over3 Days, 2 Nights Code: CPH52 Spend your holidays with the Jinghong Stop-Over – 3 days, 2 nights which includes roundtrip air ticket of Lao Airlines,

2 nights accommodation in a three star hotel with a twin sharing room, full meals (Chinese food), transportation (car, van or bus), entrance fees to tourist sites, Lao/ English speaking guide and tour program as follows:

Day 1: Take Lao Airlines flight QV818 to Jinghong , guide will meet you at the airport, go straight to visit Bage Temple (Head Temple in Xishuangbanna), then transfer to hotel check-in and dinner.

Overnight at Jinghong.

Day 2: After breakfast at hotel, transfer to Virgin Forest Park, lunch, then to Ganlanba and sightseeing in the local bazaar and the villages of Dai people and visit the Dai Garden, take part in the Vater splashing, and have dinner during a singing and dancing show. Overnight at Jinghong.

Day 3: Breakfast & check-out from hotel, tour the Flower Garden. After lunch, transfer to the airport to fly back to Luang Prabang or Vientiane.

Kunming, China Attractions Stone Forest

Bamboo Temple

The Stone Forest is a national 4A scenic spot, 86 kilometers from Kunming. A karst landform 200 million years old, known in Yunnan as the “First Wonder under the Sun”. The Stone Forest and Imperial Palace in Beijing, the Terra Cotta Warriors in Xi’an and the mountains and rivers in Guilin have been generally recognized as four main scenic spots in China.

This temple was initially built in the early Yuan Dynasty and has been the largest Buddhist temple in Yunnan since the introduction of Dhyana to Yunnan from the Central Plains. It is famous for the five hundred Buddhist saint caricatures, a masterpiece of Chinese folk statuary.

Yuantong Temple

The Golden Temple was constructed by Wu Sangui in 1671 A.D. The temple is made of copper and reflects the excellent metallurgical and casting technology from more than 300 years ago in Yunnan. The temple weighs 250 tons and is 6.7 meters high. It is the largest and heaviest as well as the best preserved copper temple in China.

It is situated at the foot of Yuantong Hill. It is the largest Buddhist temple in downtown Kunming, with a history of around 1,200 years. It combines both the Buddhist and Daoism architectural styles because it was once rebuilt as a Daoism temple.

Western Hills (Xishan) & Dragon Gate This is a scenic spot which boasts a dense forest and ancient temples such as Sanqingge, Taihua and Huating built in the Yuan Dynasty, as well as Dragon Gate carved into the cliff over 72 years ago.

Dianchi Lake Renowned as the “pearl on the plateau,” with many natural historic and cultural attractions around the lake, it is the largest lake in Yunnan.

Golden Temple

Kunming Free & Easy Stay – 3 Days, 2 Nights Code: CPH21 Enjoy the Free & Easy Stay 3 days, 2 nights which include round trip air ticket, 2 nights accommodation in a hotel room with daily breakfast and round trip airport transfer.

Yunnan Ethnic Villages A national 4A scenic spot and a window on the ethnic culture of Yunnan, where you may see traditional buildings of different ethnic groups in Yunnan and enjoy various ethnic customs and culture.

Jiu Xiang Karst Cave This area is 100 km away from Kunming, and 30 km from Stone Forest. The total area of Jiu Xiang landscape area is 278 square km. There are vivid natural landscapes imposing underground, and archaic cultural and special folk custom. It is a unique international site and geological park.

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Kunming, China Kunming Stop-Over – 3 Days, 2 Nights

Kunming Attraction – 4 Days, 3 Nights

Code: CPH22

Code: CPH23

Spend your holidays with the Kunming Stop-Over package, 3 days and 2 nights which includes round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 2 nights accommodation in a hotel with twin sharing room, full meals , private transportation, entrance fees to tourist sites, tour guide and tour program as follows:

Choose the Kunming Attraction package for a 4 days and 3 nights tour which includes a round trip air ticket on Lao Airlines, 3 nights accommodation in a hotel in a twin sharing room, all meals provided, private transportation, entrance fee to tourist sites, tour guide and tour program as follows:

Day 1: VTE/KMG (Western Hills & Jiu Xiang Caves) (L/D) Take flight QV817 (06:30-09:40) to Kunming Airport, meet and transfer to the Forest Park of the Western Hills, 26 km away from downtown and is located on the edge of Dianchi Lake. We will visit the Dragon Gate consisting of of the Sanqing Temple Complex and the Dragon Gate Grotto Complex. In the afternoon, transfer to Jiu Xiang and tour the Jiu Xiang Limestone Caves.

Transfer to the Stone Forest, check-in to the hotel. Overnight at the Stone Forest.

Day 1: VTE/KMG (Western Hills & Golden Temple) (L/D) Take flight QV817 (06:30-09:40) to Kunming Airport, meet and transfer to the Forest Park of the Western Hills, 26 km away from downtown and is located on the edge of Dianchi Lake. We will visit the Dragon Gate which consists of the Sanqing Temple Complex and the Dragon Gate Grotto Complex. Then we will visit the Golden Temple reputed to be built in 1871 with 250 tons of solid bronze, the largest bronze hall in China. Overnight Kunming.

Day 2: Stone Forest/Kunming (B/L/D) Tour the Stone Forest which is a massive collection of grey limestone pillars formed about 270 million years ago which were split by rain Vater and eroded to their present fanciful forms.

In the Stone Forest, the stone peaks rise abruptly, stalagmites crowd together like sharp swords piercing toward the sky and the group of stones look much like a mighty forest.

Day 2: Jiuxiang Cave & Stone Forest (B/L/D)

Day 3: Departure (B) Breakfast at hotel, free time and then transfer to the airport for departure at 10:45.

Transfer to Jiuxiang in the morning and tour in Jiuxiang Limestone Caves. Then transfer to the Stone Forest in the afternoon, check-in at the hotel and overnight at the Stone Forest.

Day 3: Stone Forest/Kunming (B/L/D) In the morning, tour the Stone Forest, a massive collection of grey limestone pillars formed about 270 million years ago which were split by rain Vater and eroded to their present fanciful forms. In the Stone Forest, the stone peaks rise abruptly, stalagmites crowd together like sharp swords piercing toward the sky and the group of stones look much like a mighty forest. Return back to Kunming in the afternoon. Overnight in Kunming.

Day 4: Departure (B) Transfer to the airport for departure in the morning (QV827 10:45-12:00).

For more information please contact Champa Holidays Tour or Lao Airlines offices Tel: ( 856-21 ) 219932, Fax: ( 856-21 ) 212058, Mobile: 22413161, 22224884 Email: info@laoairlines.com, sales@champaholidays.com, www.champaholidays.com

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