Zagreb In Your Pocket 101 - Winter 2021 /2022

Maps

Events

Restaurants

Cafés

Nightlife

Sightseeing

Shopping

Events

Zagreb Winter / Spring 2022

Stepping into nature Nature walks and mountain hiking on Mount Medvednica

Zoom into Zagreb See our Tips

N°101- complimentary copy zagreb.inyourpocket.com

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

3

Events

4

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Capital of Culture

www.infozagreb.hr #VisitZagreb #LoveZagreb

Foreword If you don’t already know the In Your Pocket guides from one of the 50 European cities we cover, we aim to be your constant companion during your stay. We leave no stone unturned in our effort to seek all the info your heart desires to make your stay easy. We give you the real deal on where’s worth spending your money and where’s not.

And we aim to entertain - if you’re looking for a detailed guide to church interiors, this isn’t it. But we do offer insight that only locals know. How? In Your Pocket guides are created by people who live and work in their cities every day.

The harder you work to get to know something - a friend, a piece of music, or a flavour - the stronger and longer lasting your appreciation. Once you’ve spent some time in Zagreb with us at your side, we’re sure you’ll fall in love with the city, and have a true understanding of what makes its people so passionate about it. And – you’ll be back!

Contents

6

Essential guide to the Zagreb events

Best Zagreb Parks for Walks

12

Here is our pick of secret spots to enjoy

Sightseeing

19

21

24

We give you the bread ‘n’ butter of where to eat

A moment or two on ’Kolinje’

4

Zagreb In Your Pocket

Hangin’ Out 32 Are you ready to party?

Shopping 34 Great Days Out: Medvednica

37

Day Trips for History & Culture

42

Getting Around

46

SOS! Have no fear, ZIYP is here

Our Beloved Pig Slaughter Tradition 30

Coffee & Cakes

“How’s that sweet tooth?”

Place that is perfect for a total getaway

Enjoy with the kids

Restaurants

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Ivana Kovačić, Lee Murphy, Jonathan Bousfield Design Ivana Mihoković, Moontage Photography In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Marin Magaš Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Kristina Štimac, Višnja Arambašić

Priceless places and buys

Discover what we‘ve uncovered

Don’t Leave the Kids at Home

Company Office & Accounts Croatia In Your Pocket, Zagreb, Croatia zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Kerschoffset

Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Zagreb (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not responsible for any information which might change after publication. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Events

Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1333-2732

31

Maps Street Register City Centre Map

49 50-51

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Editor’s pick Jazz and the City page 11 Our choice for this issue is the Brokenship Bistro page 27 Have you ever heard of ‘Slaughter’?

Read our story on page 30 Medvednica offers the most beautiful views of Zagreb page 31

Kiki Smith, Trembling, 2018. © Pace Gallery, New York, USA

The exhibition Gloria: Croatian Female Artists Salute Kiki Smith, currently being held in the National Museum of Modern Art in Zagreb continues until January 28, 2022.

Events

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

Are you ready for a nostalgic journey to the past? The new project of the Zagreb’s Ethnographic Museum which is open till May 2022,will remind us of the carefree world of our childhood and teach us about traditional and modern toy design.

The central exhibition of the project was conceived as a journey through the history of Croatian toys and children’s games from the held collections of the Ethnographic Museum,from the end of the19th century to the present day. Traditional toys, especially those from the Hrvatsko Zagorje region, which are listed as non-tangible heritage of the UNESCO’s Representative List, are hereby introduced to children and adults in an educational and appealing manner.

Photo by Božidar Raos

6

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Events 13.11 - 15.03 » Women and technology The exhibition focuses on the affirmation of women who have contributed to the development of science and technology, but also on questioning the impact of the development of science and technology (scientific discoveries and technical inventions) on the life and social status of women. The exhibition includes stories about prominent scientists, women who broke through socially imposed barriers and without whose contribution, the science and technology we know today would be significantly different.QA‑4, Technical Museum Nikola Tesla, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, www.tmnt.hr/.

25.11 - 29.01 » Ana Hušman - ‘A person without a house is homeless, what is a house without person?’

This film installation by Ana Hušman is specially designed for the Richter Collection space. It was created after two years of researching the collection, archives and former apartment of the Kares Richter couple. The audience is invited to take a walk around the house, to be exposed to potential scenarios for the use of space, to follow the dialogical landmarks created on the theoretical texts of Vjenceslav Richter.

The exhibition is accompanied by a publication of the same name, which, along with the curators of the exhibition, Ivana Meštrov and Jasna Jakšić, brings an unpublished text

by Vjenceslav Richter which, in today’s climate crisis and the transport and infrastructure crisis caused by pandemic reality seems extremely relevant.QThe Richter Collection, Vrhovec 38, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00.

17.12 - 27.03 » Slavko Kopač A multimedia exhibition on Slavko Kopač shows the work of a Croatian artist who belongs to the top achievements of domestic and world art, and strongly marked the French and European art scene of the second half of the 20th century. Associating with world-renowned artists such as Jean Dubuffet, André Breton and Michel Tapié, he created trends in Paris, the world’s art centre. The exhibition will show a selection of Kopač’s most excellent paintings and sculptures from private collections and museum institutions and will provide an insight into the cultural circumstances of the cities where the artist worked (Vinkovci, Zagreb, Florence, Mostar, Paris). The exhibition will extend through all the exhibition spaces of Meštrović’s pavilion and will include the exterior, where various installations will be placed. QE‑3, Home of HDLU, Trg žrtava fašizma 16.

24.01 - 30.01 » Mirjana Vodopija:Time of upheaval - multimedia interactive installation Time of a Turnaround is a research project by the artist Mirjana Vodopija based on research inspired by the phenomenon of the accumulation and sudden release of energy. During 2020, more events prompted reflections on such a nature of things and phenomena. Starting from the accumulation of kinetic energy before the earthquake, incubation before the onset of disease symptoms to the accumulation of the number of infected before the sudden facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

outbreak of a pandemic.The accumulation of energy and its sudden release is present in research in various fields of science: in physics, chemistry, political science, economics, biology, ecology, but also in art. The exhibition in the gallery space shows the accumulation of energy through a spatial installation in which the data elements react to the presence and action of visitors, creating tension. Disintegration and dismissal will depend on the intensity and character of the visitor’s actions. QGallery 90-60-90, Pogon Jedinstvo, Trnjanski nasip bb, Free.

31.01 » Gojira The French metal machine Gojira, one of the most important metal bands of the last ten years, is coming to Zagreb in January. With this album “Fortitude” released in 2021, Gojira embarks on a major world tour that will take them to the main stages of the world’s largest festivals in 2022.

The tour takes Gojira around Scandinavia, Benelux, France, UK, Scotland, Germany, Czech Republic, Poland, Switzerland, Austria, and they are coming to Zagreb for the only performance in the region.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 365 03 33, 200 - 260 kn.

15.02 » Blood Red Shoes British alt rock duo Blood Red Shoes, consisting of LauraMary Carter (guitar, vocals) and Steven Ansell (drums, vocals), arrives in Zagreb this February. A major European tour takes them around the UK, as well as France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany, Austria and Russia, and it will be an opportunity to hear the band, which has been building its visibility for almost two decades.QE‑3, Tvornica kulture, Pavla Šubića 2, tel. (+385-1) 457 83 89, 80 - 100kn.

04.03 - 05.03 » Vinart Grand Tasting Vinart Grand Tasting brings together all the best wines on the Croatian market to one spot. The organizers of this event are on a mission to seek out the very best quality wines.

Come out and find some excellent choices of wines to bring home with you, but don’t think too long about coming to this event because all exhibitors are asked to bring only a limited amount of their wines, so you don’t want to miss out on purchasing your favorites. As well, if you’re a wine connoisseur, you can even purchase those hardto-get labels.QH‑3, Lauba – The House for People and Art, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, www. grandtasting-vinart.com/en/vinart_grand_tasting/.

11.03 » Skunk Anansie - 25LIVE@25 The great British rock band and darlings of the Croatian audience, Skunk Anansie will once again perform in Zagreb as part of their ‘25Live@ 25’ world tour, celebrating 25 years since their powerful debut single Selling Jesus.

Being undoubtedly one of the best live bands of the last quarter of a century, Skunk Anansie have always had fantastic reception and inextricable relationship with the local Zagreb audience, so make sure to catch them at their concert in the Croatian capital this spring as it will surely be a blast!QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 365 03 33, 200 - 260kn.

Winter / Spring 2022

7

Events 12.03 19:30 » Lisinski on Saturday - Ivo Pogorelić Dubbed as a genius, eccentric, and uncanny musician, which probably explains why he is praised and glorified by musicians and critics alike. Pogorelić returns to his home turf and is set to bedazzle the audience at Lisinski again with his emotive and heart-warming interpretations of Stravinsky, Brahms, Schumann, Liszt and Frédéric Chopin, who is on the program of his next visit to Zagreb.QI‑3, Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, Trg Stjepana Radića 4, tel. (+385-1) 612 11 11, www.lisinski.hr.

21.03 » Sting Sting’s latest album, The Bridge, was written and recorded in the year of the global pandemic, and reveals Sting’s reflections on personal loss, separation, lockdown, and extraordinary social and political turmoil. You can find more about the album at thebridge.sting.com. On tour, Sting will be accompanied by an electric, rock ensemble that includes Dominic Miller on guitar, Josh Freese on drums, Rufus Miller on guitar, Kevon Webster on keyboards, Shane Sager on accordion, and Melissa Musique and Gene Noble as backing vocals.QH‑5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, tel. (+385-1) 642 09 00, 550 - 830 kn.

20.04 - 19.06 » Youth Salon April The Youth Salon in its 36th year is a traditional manifestation of HDLU. The main concept of the Youth Salon is Parasites, i.e. it wants to “gather parasites, intruders, pests and nuisances as guests”, as intruders and as hosts who are aware, artistic procedures penetrate existing structures and explore new systems…In parallel with the curatorial concept of the 36th Youth Salon, the exhibition ‘Situation in Additional Exhibition Spaces’ will be presented with the aim of presenting and representing the widest possible cross-section of fine art research and the work of younger artists. Qwww. salonmladih.hdlu.hr/en.

Atelier Žitnjak Archive

Art with limitless boundaries, art in all forms and shapes, art that defines and breaks norms, these are just some of the traits that personify this artelier which opens its arms to all passionate about art. Located on the city periphery, this atelier is a place to meet and greet artists from all walks of life that get the platform needed to express their talents. Žitnjak 53.

8

Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Events

36 Youth Salon Parasites April 20 - July 19 2022 www.salonmladih.hdlu.hr/en hdlu@hdlu.hr

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Tuesday - Sunday 11am - 7pm Mondays and holidays closed Winter / Spring 2022 9

Events

Slavko Kopač, Photo HDLU Archive

02.04, 28.05 20:00 » Zagreb Quartet Being the oldest Croatian chamber ensemble and string quartet formed in 1919, the Zagreb Quartet has thus far performed over 3,000 concerts, recorded over 60 albums and won numerous Croatian and international awards as well as the hearts of classical music lovers on all continents. For the 2022 season, the quartet have prepared a true musical treat performing compositions by Igor Stravinski, Wolfga, ng Amadeus Mozart, Sergej Prokofiev and Antonín Dvořák. The venue will be done later, so you can check out the quartet’s website.Qwww. zagrebquartet.hr.

25.04 » Franz Ferdinand One of the biggest foreign guest appearances in Zagreb 2022 is part of the Hits To The Head tour, and it is accompanied by an album of the biggest hits with which the band has conquered the world and will be presented live in the spring.QH‑3, Dom sportova, Trg Krešmira Ćosića 11, tel. (+385-1) 365 03 33, 200 - 230kn.

10 Zagreb In Your Pocket

06.06 - 11.06 » The World Festival of Animated Film - Animafest Zagreb Are you passionate about animation? This is the second oldest festival of its kind in Europe which attracts intriguing world animations. With awards, pitching forums and the advocacy on animation essential to the event, it is of no wonder that it’s a magnet for known and wannabe authors and producers in the field.Qwww. animafest.hr.

25.06 » Celine Dion One of the most famous and major music divas, Celine Dion, will perform at the Zagreb Arena on June 25, 2022, which will be her first concert in front of a Croatian audience! The Zagreb concert is part of a major world tour where Celine is promoting the latest studio release, Courage, which recently began in Quebec. QH‑5, Arena Zagreb, Ulica Vice Vukova 8, tel. (+385-1) 642 09 00.

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Events 27.06 » Placebo Nearly 12 million albums sold and more than two decades performing have placed Placebo at the very top of the rock scene. A big tour returning to the world stage brings them to Šalata, and it will be an opportunity to hear the best of their opus, as well as the premiere of new songs they have been working on for the last two years.QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, tel. (+385-1) 461 72 55, 220 - 260 kn.

30.06 » Simple Minds The Scottish greats are returning to Zagreb.

This post-punk / new-wave / alternative rock band visited Croatia for the last time in Split, and this band will be their seventh visit to Croatia.QD‑1, ŠRC Šalata, Schlosserove stube 2, tel. (+385-1) 461 72 55, 240 - 390 kn.

Jazz in the City In these places you can always find a good jazz concert in town.

Močvara offers Jazz concerts twice a month, be sure to check out their website mocvara.com for exact dates and times, and you can also buy tickets online.

On Wednesdays, the Sax club offers the New Croatian Jazz concert programme and admission is free.

KCM in Mesnička Street offers jazz sessions usually on Thursdays, so stop by.

In the Zagreb Jazz cycle at the Museum of Contemporary Art on February 2, you can listen to Lars Lindvall: Exploring & Experiencing Together; on April 20 comes Viktor Goines, saxophone; and May 18 Thana Alexa. You can get tickets for 50 HRK.W

© Simple Minds

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

11

Best Zagreb Parks for Walks

12 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Photo by ZTB Archive

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Best Zagreb Parks for Walks Today, there are about thirty parks and many green areas in Zagreb which are not officially included in the definition of a park, but are used for rest and recreation.

Here is our pick of secret spots to enjoy in Zagreb.

Dotrščina Dotrščina is one of the largest parks in the City of Zagreb. It covers an area of about 2 km2, mostly forested, stretching between Maksimir and Mount Medvednica. The park was named after a small stream, Dotrščina (Doktorščina), that descends from Medvednica. Unfortunately, there is also a dark side of the Dotrščina Memorial Park connected to the Second World War. Dubravkin put The pleasant promenade that connects Cmrok and Ilica is ideal for walking, cycling and jogging. Quiet and wooded, this trail was once called Sofia’s Way, after Ban Jelačić’s wife, and over time it has definitely not lost its charm.

Moreover, it has become one of the most pleasant tame routes in Zagreb.

Jelenovac Jelenovac is 15 minutes’ walk from Ilica and located on the southern slopes of Mount Medvednica, and is surrounded by dense forest. Along the Jelenovac stream there is a pleasant promenade which slowly climbs through the forest to the street Jelenovačkivrh, where it is best to continue to the right towards Jelenovac. It’s real oasis of peace and ideal for walking with children.

Jezera Savica Head south of Vukovarska along Radnička cesta and you come to Zagreb’s industrial zone. But many of us may not realise is that there are 12 lakes here, known as Savica, form a protected area with a nature reserve. When the Sava riverbank was built to prevent flooding, the lakes’ natural water supply was cut off. A large central heating plant lies by them. An outflow of clean water from the turbines replaced the missing water source, and Savica has become a paradise for more than 150 kinds of birds enjoying an ornithological Florida – the water is, of course, warm! The world’s first industrial nature reserve?

Maksimir Maksimir is a nature lover’s paradise. The very leaves beg you to take in the denouement of their divine tragedy, and why wouldn’t you? The 18 hectares of lush greenery and forest was opened to the public in 1794 and was the first of its kind in this part of Europe. It’s home to four man-made lakes and there’s no shortage of trails to amble, bike or jog along. The numerous park benches along the paths or the

water’s edge are perfect spots to pass the day away upon.

Kids, lovers, puppies and individuals with discernable heart rates seem to especially like it. If ever you had the inclination to pack a picnic basket, pick up a bottle of wine and splurge on a bouquet of flowers for good measure, this is the time and place to act on it.

Ribnjak Ribnjak Park is located next to the walls of the Zagreb Cathedral. Once a wetland area known for the small ponds after which it is named,today it is a favourite gathering place for children and young people from the city centre. Greenery and peace guarantee pleasant moments for walking and light recreation.

Rokov perivoj Tucked uphill just behind the post office on Britanski trg, this green space is an almost forgotten urban planning project repopulating a former cemetery with villas designed by architect Viktor Kovačić, and lived in by artists. The nude sculpture in the centre of the park is by the former resident of No. 2, sculptor Robert Frangeš Mihanović.

Tuškanac Forest This forest stretches down from the foothills of Mount Medvednica almost to Ilica, the city’s main street. Tuškanac street is a beautiful residential area with many villas housing embassies, while the forest has trails ideal for jogging and dog walking.

Zelengaj Zelengaj Forest Park is located north of Britanski trg, on the slopes of Medvednica, alongside Zelengaj stream.

In the past, Zelengaj, Josipovac and Tuškanac formed a unique complex of forests, orchards, vineyards, arable land and meadows, which was planned as a quarter of family villas with gardens at the end of the 19th century. This area is very popular for living today precisely because of the beautiful greenery and forests that surround it. If you are interested in architecture and beautiful villas, you can continue the walk next to the Bethlehem Monastery, all the way to Gornji Prekrižje, and return to Zelengaj via Tuškanac across the road. At Gornji Prekrižje, Villa Žiga Fuhrmann should be highlighted, one of the most important works of Stjepan Planić and Croatian architecture between the two world wars.

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

13

Sightseeing

14 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Photo by Julien Duval, ZTB Archive

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing Essential Zagreb Time is of the essence, so we’ve created a cheat-sheet of sorts. See the best of the city in only a couple of hours to prove to the guys at the pub that you’re cultured.

Ban Josip Jelačić Square (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića) This Austro-Hungarian styled square is the true centre of the city. There’s a phenomenal variety of cafés, shopping, feeding and people watching everywhere. It was named after the impressive sculpture within its domain, that of Count Jelačić, his deadly steed, and a sword so pointy and sharp that it could poke your eye out. Our count’s image has inspired a number of political outbursts: in 1947 it was dismantled and chucked into a corner somewhere because leaders found it overly representative of nationalism in the country. The year 1990 brought it back into its current place, this time leaders believing it perfectly nationalistic.QC‑2, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića.

Dolac (Dolac Market) Croatia is a country passionate about its produce, and nowhere is this more visible than at the farmers’ market Dolac. Small producers from surrounding villages gather in this central food mecca to sell their leafy greens and fleshy meats, which are instantly snapped up. Find everything from turnips to bee pollen and unidentified seeds that promise to straighten out your digestive tract. Old cafés and randomly strewn bar stools (appearing deceptively free) surround the shopping chaos on the upper level; while the meat hangs below your feet, in Dolac’s underground bunker along with fresh produce, cheese, herbs, nuts, loose grains, olives by the kilo…and much, much more. A separate fish room (amateurs prepare your nose pincers) and cheese room (likewise) will keep you wandering through this ultimate homage to all things edible, Dolac.QC‑2, Dolac 9.

Funicular Quite possibly the shortest funicular, or indeed any tracked transportation, in the world. Starting just off Ilica you can hitch a ride for 5kn up to the base of the Lotrščak Tower that guards the entrance to Gornji grad, that is of course if you can’t be bothered to spend 30 seconds climbing the steps that run up the side of the tracks. A boon for the lazy amongst us!QB‑2, Tomićeva bb, www.zet.hr. Open 06:30-22:00. 5 kn, children up to 7 years free.

Lenuci’s Horseshoe (Lenucijeva potkova) A forward thinking urban planner by the name of Lenuci came along at the end of 19th Century and was instrumental in creating the so-called Green Horseshoe or Lenuci’s Horseshoe. If you look at the B/C-3/4 region of the map at the back, you’ll see an unmistakable green U-shape that explains the name, famous both for the green spaces and the architecture inside of it. The west leg (B-3) is comprised of three squares: Trg Republike Hrvatske with the Baroque and unmistakably yellow Croatian National facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

ZTB Archive

Winter / Spring 2022

15

Sightseeing Theatre; Mažuranićev trg and Marulićev trg with beautiful art nouveau buildings, and the State Archives. The southern leg (B/C-4) is entirely comprised of the wonderful Botanical gardens. This glorious return to nature is home to over 10 000 plant species, numerous park benches, lily pads galore and ducks that quack. The east leg (C-3) is also made up of three squares: Trg kralja Tomislava with its Art Pavilion, Strossmayerov trg with the Gallery of Arts and Sciences and finally the glorious Zrinjevac with its exquisite Music Pavilion. This group of squares is worshipped by locals, tourists and animals of all types.QB/C‑3/4. J Mirogoj Cemetery Situated on the slopes of the Medvednica mountain, it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Limegreen cupolas top the wall that surrounds the memorial park. Mirogoj is not only a burial place but also a beautiful park and open art gallery. Not far from the present mortuary, in the period between 1852 and 1895 there stood the summer house of the Illyrian leader, Ljudevit Gaj. After his death the municipality bought the complete estate and constructed the central Zagreb cemetery upon it. The well-known architect Herman Bollé designed the shape of the cemetery, applying a monumental composition of arcades, pavilions and domes, intermingled with rich vegetation, and adding a gallery of sculptures by Croatian sculptors. Getting There Bus N°106 from the Cathedral to Mirogoj takes 15min. You can also take tram N°14 from the main square heading east (to Mihaljevac) and get out at the fourth stop (Gupčeva zvijezda).QJ‑1, Aleja Her‑ manna Bollea 27.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) The spectrum of colours displayed on the roof beautifully depicts the Croatian, Dalmatian and Slavonian coats-ofarms and also the Zagreb city emblem and provides for quite a lasting visual. Due to various natural disasters it has received a ton of reconstruction and not a whole lot remains of the original 14th century building. Inside, highlights include two works by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most famous sculptor, and frescoes by artist Jozo Kljaković.QC‑1, Trg svetog Marka 5, tel. (+385-1) 485 16 11.

Stone Gate (Kamenita vrata) This archway was one of the four original entries into the walled Gornji grad of the feudal period. In 1731 a terrible fire destroyed much of the town, and legend has it that a vision of the Virgin Mary could be seen in the burnt ash that remained in this entry. It was reconstructed in 1760 and hasn’t been touched since. Today you’ll find ladies praying in the church pews, black-soot ceilings and candles glowing as a testament to a people and their faith.

QC‑1, Kamenita ulica.

The Cathedral of Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja) A wonder of neo-Gothic artistry, the impressive and sharp looking towers stand out from nearly anywhere you are in the entire city. Though it’s in an evidently permanent state of reconstruction, it’s undeniably overwhelming and will push you to ponder those larger things we can see you’ve been avoiding. Go ahead and wander inside but don’t forget to turn

Photo by Sanjin Kaštelan, ZTB Archive

16 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Visit the Chocolate Museum Zagreb and try 9 varieties of chocolate.

Two minutes walking distance from the Josip Jelačić Square.

Muzej čokolade Zagreb, Varšavska 5, 1st floor www.muzejcokolade.hr the mobile off. A brief history: 1093 - founded; 1242 - the initial Romanesque construction is finished. In the next 21 years it’s heavily damaged in various sieges by the Tatars; 1624 - a series of sweeping fires practically destroys it; 1645 - another wave of fires picks up where the last left off. It’s reconstructed; 1880 - sustains serious damage during an earthquake. A 12year restoration takes place, at which time the neo-Gothic bell towers are raised skyward; 1990 - exterior renovations set in motion to battle against the effects of time.

Zagreb Cathedral is currently closed due to damage caused by the earthquake which hit the Zagreb area on 22 March 2020. At the moment you can only view it from the outside.QC‑1, Kaptol 31, tel. (+385-1) 481 47 27.

The Lotrščak Tower and Grič cannon (Kula Lotrščak i Grički top) If in Zagreb you hear the blast of cannon fire, fear not, it simply means it’s midday. This auditory onslaught is not an elaborate pigeon-scaring scheme. According to one legend, a cannon shot from the Lotrščak tower soared over the river Sava and landed in the Turks’ encampment, right on a platter of chicken that was being carried to the Pasha for his lunch. The Pasha decided against attacking a city of fearsome sharpshooters so Zagreb escaped invasion.

Since this ace shot was fired at noon, a cannon has been fired at that time from the same tower ever since. Sited in the upper town, the tower originally was part of the city’s defences, and later served as a prison. Nowadays, it houses a gallery and an art shop, and the view from the top is well facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

worth the climb.QB/C‑2, Strossmayerovo šetalište 9, www.gkd.hr/kula-lotrscak/. Open 09:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/10 kn. J Zagreb’s Solar System Ever wondered what the great big metal ball on Bogovićeva street is? It’s, of course The Sun - a sculpture made by Ivan Kožarić in 1971. In 2004, Davor Preis created a scale model of the solar system around this mighty sun at the following locations throughout the city: Mercury (Margaretska 3), Venus (Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 3), Earth (Varšavska 9), Mars (Tkalčićeva 21), Jupiter (Voćarska 71), Saturn (Račićeva 1), Uranus (Siget 9), Neptune (Kozari put), Pluto (Aleja Bologne - underpass). Preis never revealed the locations of the planets, so finding them turned into a game lasting until the last planet was “discovered” in 2006.

Zagreb Welcomes You - Model City Measuring just under 13 square metres in area, the entire piece features over 2500 addresses, and over 400 distinct structures, all cast beautifully in bronze. The south and west facing sides of the model feature short texts referencing the history of Zagreb in both Croatian and English, and they also showcase the original coat of arms of Zagreb and the seal of Kaptol. Also along the base you can see a number of scenes which depict holidays tied to Croatia and the capital. The model was sculpted by Professor Damir Mataušić, and has already ‘replaced’ the clock on Trg ban Jelačić as the default meeting place for many of the locals.QC‑2, Ulica Tome Bakača. J Winter / Spring 2022

17

Sightseeing Museums & Galleries Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej suvremene umjetnosti) Founded in 1954, the museum has relocated to a impressive building as you pass the Sava River. The collection here allows for the avant-garde to speak for itself with an excellent range of paintings, sculpture, video art and photography. Mobile guides in foreign languages available as well as free wi-fi connection. Except for interactive exhibitions interesting to children that are worth seeing and the children’s corner activities, kids will surely go for the slide (does not work if it is raining). QJ‑4, Avenija Du‑ brovnik 17, tel. (+385-1) 605 27 00, www.msu.hr. Open 11:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admis‑ sion 30/15 kn. Entry is free every first Wednesday of the month. U Dražen Petrović Museum (Muzej Dražen Petrović) Croatian sensation Dražen Petrović (1964–1993), nicknamed“basketball’s Mozart”, is Europe’s greatest ever basketball export and is considered to have sparked a wave of European players who went to play in the American NBA. As well as playing for Zagreb’s Cibona club, for Real Madrid and the New Jersey Nets, Dražen was the winner of numerous medals at Olympic, European and World level. He tragically died in a traffic accident but his legacy is very much alive. This museum displays his medals, awards,

personal items, letters and gifts from fans. A guided tour in English is available if you pre-book for a group of 15.Tram line 12,9,3,14,17,4,13. Admission to the museum is free for individual visits on June 7 and October 22.QA‑4, Trg Dražena Petrovića 3, tel. (+385-1) 484 31 46, www. drazenpetrovic.net. Open 10:00-17:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Sun. Admission 30/10 kn. U Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski muzej) High fashion collides with odd impracticality to provide a unique look at the people of this country through the ages. Cool, curious and wacky all at the same time. Those who pre-book and request guides for individuals and groups in English will cost 150kn per tour. QB‑3, Trg Mažuranića 14, tel. (+385-1) 482 62 20, www.emz.hr.

Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00; closed Mon, Sun. Admission 15/40kn. T­U­J­6 Lauba – The House for People and Art (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba) Known as the House for People and Art, it has a collection of 500 works created over the last 60 years and includes some of the greatest names in recent Croatian art. Exhibitions change monthly. The perfect setting for art and interaction!QH‑3, Baruna Filipovića 23a, tel. (+385-1) 630 21 15, fax (+385-1) 630 21 42, www. lauba.hr. Open 11:00-22:00. Admission 25/10 kn.

T­U

Photo by Miro Cindrić

18 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza) Filled with mementos of relationships that have in one way or another - gone wrong! It first started here in Zagreb and has toured around the world stockpiling an amazing array of items and descriptions that may have you thinking twice. Funny yet serious, it won the Kenneth Hudson Award in 2011 for the most innovative European Museum.QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, tel. (+385-1) 485 10 21, www.brokenships.com. Open 10:00-21.00. Ad‑ mission 40/30 kn.

Museum of Chocolate (Muzej čokolade) A sweet little secret in the heart of Zagreb, you can enjoy the Museum of Chocolate with all your senses.

At daily workshops,all age groups can enjoy learning the story of chocolate: where it comes from and how it is made. For grown-ups,themed workshops guide you through creating your own chocolately treats and learning to taste chocolate like a connoisseur. There are creative weekend workshops for children workshops, and chocolate summer camps for the luckiest little ones! QVaršavska 5, tel. (+385-1) 209 2966, www.muzejcokolade.hr/. Open 11:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon. (last entry 19:00) Public holidays: please check opening times on (01) 2092 966. J facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

National Museum of Modern Art (Nacionalni muzej moderne umjetnosti) The National Museum of Modern Art is one of the richest of its kind in all of Croatia; rich in culture that is. Located in the centre of Zagreb, in the Vranyczany Palace built during the 1880s, it hosts permanent exhibits featuring more than 750 works of modern and ultra-modern art from painters, sculptors, as well others who work in new media.

From the staircase and grand lobby, to the halls on the first and second floors, visitors are presented with a harmonious image of cohabitation of old and new, yesterday and today, as more than two centuries of Croatian modern art await. QC‑3, Andrije Hebranga 1, tel. (+385-1) 604 10 40, fax (+385-1) 604 10 44, www.moderna-galerija.hr.

Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 40/30 kn. U Prigorje Museum (Muzej Prigorja) The museum exhibits a complete picture of the Prigorje region. Its founding in 1977 has also contributed to the discovery of the valuable archaeological site on the Kuzelin hill in 1975. In addition to the collection, the museum preserves and exhibits archaeological, historical, artistic, and documentary items whilst always engaging in conservation and restoration activities as well as education. QTrg D. Domjanića 5, 10360 Sesvete, tel. (+385-1) 200 16 01, www.muzejprigorja.hr/.

Open 10:00-19:00; closed Sat, Sun. Winter / Spring 2022

19

Sightseeing ZTB Archive

The Croatian Museum of Naive Art (Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti) Originating in Croatia in the middle-20th century, naive art is a highly colourful and often political style of painting. This museum is home to about 80 paintings and the imagery is undeniably fascinating. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized at a charge of 300kn for every 30 minutes. QC‑1, Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3, tel. (+385-1) 485 19 11, fax (+385-1) 485 21 25, www. hmnu.hr. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admis‑ son 20/70kn.Free entrance - children up to 15 years.

A­J The Croatian Society of Artists (HDLU Hrvatsko društvo likovnih umjetnika) Circular and galleried, lit up at night in neon colours, this building designed by pre-eminent Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović is a stunning piece of architecture. As its popular name džamija testifies, it was converted to a mosque in World War II. Restored to its original purpose in 1993, the gallery is now an exhibition space for all forms of visual arts, while a new mosque has been purpose-built in the Borovje neighbourhood.QTrg žrtava fašizma 16, tel. (+385-1) 461 18 19/(+385-1) 461 18 18, fax (+385-1) 457 68 31, www.hdlu.hr. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20/10kn. J Typhlological Museum (Tiflološki muzej) This museum has a twofold function: enabling visually impaired and sighted visitors the opportunity to enjoy art and sculpture with all their senses, and acquainting the sighted with the experience of blindness through installations such as the Dark Room, which you pass through with only a white stick to guide you. You can also learn about the development of Braille and how to write it. Exhibits are well labelled in English and Braille, and wheelchair access is enabled throughout. Special guides for the blind are available.QD‑3, Draškovićeva 80/ll, tel. (+385-1) 481 11 02, fax (+385-1) 483 52 18, www.tifloloskimuzej.hr.

Open 09:00-16:00; Thu 09:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. Admission 20/15kn. U

Technical Museum Nikola Tesla (Tehnički muzej Nikola Tesla) All kinds of technology stuff, from an early propeller-powered snowmobile to full-size models of satellites, space stations and a planetarium where you can view a simulation of the night sky. Pre-bookings for a foreign language guide can be organized. QA‑4, Savska cesta 18, tel. (+385-1) 484 40 50, fax (+3851-) 484 35 68, www.tmnt. hr. Open 09:00-17:00; Sun, Sat 09:00-13:00; closed Mon. Admission 20kn. Planetarium admission 15kn.

20 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Zagreb City Museum (Muzej grada Zagreba) With theme music and sprawling city models, this museum will wow you with its artefacts and displays. It helps elucidate the progression of Zagreb as a city and Croatia as an independent country in the 20th century especially.

Much of it is interactive also, which makes it a nice option for an educational experience with the kids. There is also a Braille guide and exhibits adapted for the blind. A truly awesome place! Mobile guides in foreign languages are available in addition to special guides for the blind. QC‑1, Opatička 20, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 61, www.mgz.hr. Open 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon. Admission 10/50kn. U­J zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Don’t Leave the Kids at Home The Observatory (Zvjezdarnica) An observatory is where you should head to make use of all those wishes you’ve been stockpiling over the years. It is located in the picturesque surroundings of Gornji Grad (upper town). The building continues to be a key post for scientific observation of natural astronomical phenomena, and regularly hosts visitors – both young and old – looking for a peek at stardust.C‑1, Opatička 22, tel. (+385-1) 485 13 55, www.zvjezdarnica.hr. Open Wed & Thu 20:0021:30. Admission free. For organized tours call (+3851) 485 13 55.

Kid ‘s friendly: It is defintiely worth going onto the Zagreb’s funicular and once you reach the Upper town, the views of the city and beyond will give you goose bumps, especially from the Lotrščak Tower.

Backo Train Museum - Backo Mini Express The largest model train set in Southeast Europe. It is a miniature wonderland where no detail has been spared.

With a kilometre of tracks winding from underfoot to overhead, this miniature world is a favourite for small children, while at the same time just as interesting for discerning adults of all ages. Enthusiasts of the genre will be mesmerized by the over 100 model train compositions: featuring passenger trains to freighters and everything in between.

Not to be outdone, hundreds of roads are set into the stunning scenery and are alive will all manner of moving motor vehicles; complete with stoplights and traffic signals. Unique to Backo is a model ski hill complete with tiny skiers carving up the face of this one-of-a-kind feature. B‑2,Gundulićeva 4, tel. (+385-) 098 20 28 83, www.backo.hr. Open 12:00-20:00;closed Mon. From January 7, be sure to check the opening hours on their website. Tickets 30/35kn.

Kid ‘s friendly: Once you’ve visited the Backo Mini Express, honk into Magnolia, a famous Zagreb pattisserie with fresh cakes made from fresh ingredients and a selection of hot and cold teas and beverages. They pay attention to detail and serving!

Museum of Illusions (Muzej Iluzija) Test your perception at this amazing and unique Museum in this part of Europe where things do not appear as they should, and that is where the fun begins. An adventure of visual and sensual stimuli is about to test your very perception, or is it deception? Best of all, a transformation of the premises has just occurred with stereograms, illusion chairs and a kaleidoscope amongst the new features. Test your skills with amazing visual and sensory challenges open for all ages and in both Croatian/English. Find the solutions to all of the illusions! B‑2, Ilica 72, tel. (+385-1) 799 96 09 / (+385-) 091 942 20 07, www.muzejiluzija.com. Open 09:00–22:00. Admission 50/30kn.Family ticket 120kn (includes two adults plus two small children).

Kid ‘s friendly: Now that you have mastered the Museum of Illusions, dive into a world of fables and books that you can sit, read and discuss together with your child at Planetopija bookstore. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

21

Don’t Leave the Kids at Home

Police Museum (Muzej policije) The Museum provides an interesting cross section of the development of the Croatian police forces over the past decades, stresses the important role of the police in the Homeland War and showcases a large collection of weapons.

Kids will enjoy the collection of police vehicles and equipment. Section of the Museum is dedicated to the father of dactyloscopy, Ivan Vučetić, where visitors will learn all about the fingerprinting technique, and can pose on a chair for the police photograph, popularly known as the mug shot.

Kids Friendly: Very close to the gallery is the Maksimir neighborhood. Make your way through the Maksimir park and find a restaurant called Ježeva kućica.QK‑2, Avenija Gojka Šuška 1, tel. (+385-1) 242 65 51/(+385-1) 242 63 18, www.muzej-policije.gov.hr/. Open 10:00-13:00; closed Sat, Sun. Every first Sat‑ urday of the month open from 10:00 - 13:00.

Free admission.

22 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Don’t Leave the Kids at Home Top Cultural Souvenirs for Children Boya is a dry, waxy pastel for drawing, colouring and painting. Unlike crayons in sticks, they can draw lines of different thicknesses, as well as draw surfaces, making them perfect for little children’s hands which are not used to holding classic pencils and colouring pencils. They can be purchased at Take me Home.

Ivana Brlić Mažuranić was a great Croatian writer for children. In Planetopija, you can buy a set-pack in English with her story ‘Stri‑ bor’s Forest’ which includes (CD, Audiobook, DVD with cartoon and a surprise gift). Sincere recommendations and it is a fantastic read!

Story Teller Cube, a didactic game with no rules for children and adults. Each cube makes one category: time, person, place, object, animal and means of transportation. Tossing or picking dice offers children and parents basic illustrations to help them invent stories. You can buy online, on storytellercube.com.

The Goldsmith’s Gold, a classic novel by the great Croatian writer Augusta Šenoa with a theme based on unrequited love. A romantic story centred on historical facts. You can find it at the Link Gallery.

Photo by Željko Beštek

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

23

Restaurants Bistro Jadranka Perhaps not exactly central, Bistro Jadranka is near enough to the centre to be accessible, but far enough away that your fellow guests are likely to be locals. Menu changes each Monday, with extra fish dishes added each Friday.

Has an active Facebook account where you can find out what’s available in a given week. You can pick your own wine from the shop next door, and have it with your meal for a small surcharge.QI‑3, Ulica Grada Vukovara 56, tel. (+385-1) 611 35 18. Open 08:00-18:00; closed Sat, Sun. (70 - 150kn). A­P­G­B­S­i Brokenships Bistro Located in the Upper Town, next to the eponymous museum, and only a 5-minute walk from the main square. The ambiance is very pleasant, and a selection of homemade ingredients combine on a seasonally created menu, with an unexpected twist of traditional recipes led by Dino Galvagno and his team. You can definitely expect the best for your palate from Dino. Definitely a recommendation.

QC‑1, Katarining trg 3, www.brokenshipsbistro.com.

Open 18:00-22:00; Sun 13:00-16:00. (66 - 155kn).

Ficlek Just below the Dolac market, it could be said to be the belly of the city. Ficlek in Zagreb means a small piece, which would mean that you should be able to try pieces of traditional Zagreb food here. On the menu you can find ajngemahtec, Zagreb steak, rags with cabbage, stuffed with potato salad, tafelšpic, štrukle, granadirmarš and various side dishes such as mashed potatoes, grinders, bizi rice and so on. QC‑2, Pod Zidom 5, tel. (+385-) 099 495 89 09. Open 11:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-17:00. (46 - 92kn).

Ježeva kućica If you are after a place that has good home-made cuisine, a relaxed atmosphere and a great surrounding, you will be thrilled with Ježeva kućica (Hedgehog’s House) in Maksimir. Positioned right next to the Maksimir park-forest, this is a great retreat from city’s hustle and bustle as well as trendy restaurants. In a great atmosphere of this cozy new restaurant, one will enjoy the home specialties at affordable prices. Great food and the beauty of the location makes this place truly unique. QUl. Fakultetsko dobro 8, tel. (+385 01) 353 52 22. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:0021:00; closed Mon. (60 - 180kn).

Lari & Penati Inspired by the gods of bounty and hearth, this tiny delibistro has surely made its namesake proud as a huge addition to the Zagreb cuisine scene. With one-of-a-kind flavors on a menu that changes daily, like the locals, you’ll want to keep coming back for more. Check their facebook postings for the latest creations currently keeping lips buzzing and tummies happy.QD‑3, Petrinjska 42a, tel. (+385-1) 465 57 76. Open 11:30-22:00; Sat 12:00-17:00; closed Sun. (50 - 100kn). A ­P­G­B­S­

24 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Mali Bar Understated fabulousness permeates this mustgo spot carved into a city center alleyway staircase. The relaxed, happy clientele make the most impressive aspect of the decor with over thirty business casual making up the major hues. Stop in anytime for wine and fab tapas but with a tvfamous chef in the kitchen.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 14. Open 12:30-23:00; closed Sun. (75 - 145kn). A­P­G­B­W ManO2 To say that the cuisine at ManO2 is inspirational would be a gross underestimation. Creative, highly unusual and with unparalleled presentation, these are not meals, they are experiences – just like at the original ManO restaurant in Medvedgradska ulica. The setup at ManO2 in the Radnička cesta business district is more tailored to working lunches during business hours, with the menus a good deal cheaper. The team is led by an extremely talented head chef who ensures that what the kitchen turns out is worthy of every gasp of admiration. Choose from a degustation menu of five or seven courses, or one of two wine pairing menus.QRadnička cesta 50, tel. (+385-1) 643 05 35. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Sun. (560 720kn). A NAV Restaurant One of Croatia’s finest chefs has opened the doors to his restaurant where traditional Croatian cuisine is fused with a strong eastern influence. Chef Tvtrko Šakota bases his 16 dishes tasting menu on the freshest of ingredients which keeps things imaginative. Its fine dining with the slow food style where one can really settle and indulge in the creative dishes amidst a great wine selection. QB‑2, Masarykova 11, tel. (+385-1) 202 99 61, www.nav-restaurant.com/.

Open 13:00-20:00; closed Mon, Sun. (890kn).

A ­P­J­W Noel A warm, cosy and welcoming venue, Noel sits neatly on a corner, hidden among the maze of small streets just north of Home of HDLU. To try and list the kind of dishes available here would take far too much time and space, but then the restaurant knows this all too well and offers diners the option of 6-course vegetarian menu and 6-course chef’s menu so that you can sample as much as possible. QE‑2, Duk‑ ljaninova 1, tel. (+385-1) 484 42 97/(+385-) 095 5606 640, www.noel.hr. Open 18:0024:00; closed Sun. (650-950kn). A ­P ­G­ T­S­J­­K

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022 25 Ivanić Grad Tourist Board Archive

Restaurants

CHRISTMAS FAIRYTALE IN THE HEART OF ZAGREB Enjoy in the most abundant Christmas buffet table and festive ambience with a unique view to main Zagreb square in our American Steak & Grill House.

BUFFET MENU FOR

199,00 kn/approx. 27,00 € per person (includes welcome glass of sparkling wine)

Friday – Saturday – Sunday (17 – 19 December, 24 – 26 December, 01 – 02 January) Lunch: 12:00 pm – 03:00 pm Dinner: 06:00 pm – 10:00 pm

INFORMATION AND RESERVATION Email: kavana@hotel-dubrovnik.hr, Tel.: 01/4818 -613

ethnic Curry Bowl So two brothers whilst travelling across Europe happen to fall in love with Zagreb and decide to introduce the best Sri Lankan meals to this wonderful city.

And that’s the inception of ‘Curry Bowl’, a place of rich and intense flavours, exotic spicy herbs, all combined with organic vegetables and meats from the famous local market Dolac. Head to the vibrant Tkalčićeva Street for some kotthu, devilled dishes or ‘curry in a hurry’! QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 44, tel. (+385-1) 557 91 75, www.srilankancurrybowl.com. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-24:00. (52 - 79kn). A ­B­S­J­W El Toro Restaurant & Bar As you might expect from the name, this place is themed around good steaks and Latin American cuisine – however these are just the starting blocks for chef Mario Mihelj’s imaginative way with the pots and pans. The aged T-bones and rib-eyes are what many people come for although there’s plenty more to choose from, including gourmet tacos and a couple of variations on ceviche (a spicy citrus raw-fish dish from Peru). Seafood is a bit more adventurous than in traditional Croatian restaurants; the baked sea bass for example comes with a delicate twist of ginger and sweet-and-sour sauce.QJ‑3, Ul. fra 26 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Filipa Grabovca 1, tel. (+385-) 099 613 2926, www. eltoro.hr. Open 12:00-23:00; closed Mon. (80200kn). A ­P­G­B­W Izakaya If you want to get out of the city centre, one possibility is Izakaya on Selska cesta. This restaurant is known for its good food, interesting interpretation of Japanese cuisine and great cocktails. Desserts are definitely worth a try.QSelska 90b, tel. (+385-1) 333 36 60, www.izakaya.hr/. Open 11:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 11:0024:00; closed Sun. (50-180kn). A­W Japanese restaurant Tekka You might not normally associate Zagreb with Japanese cuisine, but over the last 5 years the Croatian capital has seen an impressive influx of high quality sushi.

Tekka is one of the most recent additions, a bustling venue with an equally eager staff. A full menu is available, as well as several Japanese beers.QJ‑3, Radnička cesta 37 b, tel. (+385-1) 638 93 98, www.tekka.hr.

Open 11:00-23:00; closed Sun. (105 - 480kn). A­P­ G­T­U­B­S­V­L­­K Namaste Bistro In the centre of the city there is a small Indian bistro with dishes that lean on the South Indian tradition. A good atmosphere with helpful waiters, and zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants a good selection of various dishes that you can share are a great choice for lunch. The food is delicious, not too spicy. A couple of Croatian wines are also offered, and there is a special menu for cocktails.QC‑2, Preradovićeva 2, tel. (+385-1) 626 44 58. Open 09:00-23:00; Sun 09:00-22:00.

(70-95kn).

Royal India The perfect place to savour some authentic Indian cuisine where the scent of incense greets you right at the door and creates a temple-like atmosphere.

Try some samosas, tandoori chicken and warm naan with a cup of lassi or cardamom tea along with a wide variety of other delicious dishes. Be careful when ordering your food spicy because unlike most of the restaurants in Zagreb, the food really is spicy.

Best of all, the extremely friendly staff recommends the best dishes with the freshest ingredients for the day.QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 26, tel. (+385-1) 468 09 65.

Open 11:30-22:45. (70 - 110kn). A­P­G­T­B­ S­V­J­K Saralee’s Thai Street Food A welcome addition to the city centre’s fast food outlets, Khaos Thai is neatly placed right behind the Galleria Business Centre on Vlaška, at Trg Drage Iblera 10. You’ll be hard pressed to find fault with anything here. Great value for money, fantastic flavour and taste across the entire menu, and some of the friendliest staff there is. If you’re searching for your new go-to place, just try their green curry and you’ll know you’ve found it! QD‑2, Trg Drage Iblera 10. Open 11:00-18:00; closed Mon, Sun. S­J

Top Rated Gourmet Food

Sofra Once you’ve sampled all the Croatian specialties, there are still more culinary delights to try. First stop: the rich and heavy food of Bosnia. You can try all types of Bosnian specialties like krumpiruša, kvrguša and urmašice and then move on to a scrumptious piece of baklava and authentic Turkish coffee.Q1.

Gardijske brigade Tigrovi 27, (+385 1) 613 10 26, Open 10:00-22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:30. (25 - 150kn).

A­PGB­W Tori Street Food Asian street food fans and fanatics have now got their new favorite place. Tori street food restaurant has recently opened its doors in the western part of Zagreb, the area of Špansko, which is becoming increasingly popular with new trendy places for good food and great fun. Tori street food is the latest contribution to the list. The chef Vid Nikolić prepares the mouthwatering Asian dishes that will make you want to return for more. QTrg Ivana Kukuljevića 5, tel. (+385 99) 380 26 57. S­V facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Zagreb Upper Town, Katarinin trg 3 www.brokenshipsbistro.com

#comfortfood

Winter / Spring 2022

27

Restaurants pizza Duksa It’s not every day you come across good pizza. When we say “good” we mean pizza with a thin, crispy base and fresh, natural ingredients on the top. Duksa’s pizza menu offers about ten original “designs” with tomato sauce (“red pizza”) and a similar number without sauce (“white pizza”). Each pizza has its own imaginative and humorous name, for example “Shitake Happens”. Buon appetito! Also at Ede Murtića 11 (Bundek Centar).

QK‑2, Duknovićeva 4, tel. (+385-1) 233 45 56, www.duksa.hr. Open 10:00-23:00. (49 64kn). A ­P­G­B­S­6­W Franko’s Pizza and Bar The first thing that catches your eye, a very cosy and beautiful interior in the style of the 60s. Not far from the city centre, you can come from the square with tram number 6, get off at the intersection of Držićeva and Šubićeva, and then walk a hundred metres.

Pizzas are great, there are many varieties to choose from, ingredients are from top local suppliers. Prices are higher than in other pizzerias. QBranimirova 71a, tel. (+385-1) 653 08 84, www.en.frankos.hr/. Open 11:0022:30. (45-180kn). A­W

www.inyourpocket.com Mali medo Archive

28 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Karijola This second opened location has quickly caught the city’s attention. But almost as delicious as the super fresh mouth, watering menu options is what the restaurant lay-out has created in the city center, a modernized version of their original hearty, wood-style interior rests perched atop an alleyway staircase and surrounded in greenery. The overall impression of being in a tree house pizza oasis is a see-it-to-believe-it pleasure. Highly recommended. Also at I-3 Badalićeva 18, (+385-1) 366 70 44.QD‑2, Vlaška 63, tel. (+385-1) 553 10 16, www.pizzeria-karijola.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (41 - 79kn). A ­G­B­S­W

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants Our Beloved Pig Slaughter Tradition Baranja Tourist Board Archive

Who could take away this eternal practice that takes place in the early days of an icy winter, most often round early December? Whereby a pig is usually the source of a handful of delicacies that would last the entire year with bacon, pancetta, ham, prosciutto, kulen, kulenova seka, and sausage such as black pudding, or dried ribs, pig’s trotters, and more to be had…

You see, pig slaughtering in this region is in fact, and no matter whatever animal rights activists say, more than just a way of saving whatever delights for the winter and to survive the year more easily. Pig slaughter, regardless of how it may sound wrong, were and still are popular celebrations.

It all begins early in the morning; the entire family gathers in the courtyard, the neighbours are probably there too, before the family that is, excitement all-round! It’s a big deal, everyone has very precise tasks. Men, for example, slaughter and cut the pig, whilst women wash the pork lining in preparation for delicious sausages; and the biggest master is the one who knows how to make the perfect meat products, kulen, sausage, ham and prosciutto. As true as it is, sometimes one has too many drinks and sings indeed a tune or ten, jokes a little on his own or someone else’s account, but at the same time there is nothing better than the ‘first’ meat thrown on a fire, just like the sound of that pork fat when turned into crackling. When a pig’s life is taken it isn’t a beautiful sight, but many say that it’s part of a natural chain; whilst one day ends, another dawns. For anyone who has attended the tradition of ‘pig slaughter’ during their lifetime, even if not for the entire ceremony not if every moment had been up to their liking, today they will remember only the good and treasured details.

For example, that fresh liver that was eaten for breakfast will always be a dearer memory than the somewhat weird parents’ need to force their children to hold a basin under the neck of a pig with blood dripping. This tradition meant so much to people that they would take their annual vacation during the pig slaughter period, unless of course a public holiday would fall around that time, when it gets cold in November and December.

New times, however, have brought some new traditions. People lead faster lives, there is not enough time 30 Zagreb In Your Pocket

anymore, retail chains now offer all the wonders made of pork and therefore make it all seem so much easier. So the most important element of the pig slaughter, which is the socialising and gathering of family and friends, has somehow lightly been ignored. Even more depressing is that we have ignored the truth, factory products and mass production will never have the same quality as a domestic product. It cannot be the same when the meat for sausages is mixed in a machine, or when it is made with love by a grandfather or father. A warm supermarket cannot compete with a child’s pink cheeks from cold nipping, not even a CD with pop music or announcements that entice you to purchase products can compete with the chorus’ and verses which are uttered by jolly folk followed by rakija (a drink to help keep warm in the winter).

Neither can the ‘joy’ of when one comes home from shopping with a full trolley come even close to the joy of when one comes home from the pig slaughter filled with bags of the first pork rind/scratching (čvarci).

Unfortunately, it is true that the pig slaughteris no longer what it used to be, but fortunately this nice tradition is still being retained even if the wealth of a family is no longer measured by the number of pigs ready for slaughter. It should be said that the state has appointed more precise rules and legal laws so that the animal suffers as least as possible. The safety of meat goes under strict control; the conditions in which the pig slaughter can be performed are defined. Perhaps to some people this custom may seem barbaric, just as they think it is barbaric to load lamb on a spit, but all prejudices disappear if one attends the pig slaughter at least once,and if you are not so unlucky to be given a basin to capture swine blood.

In any case, it is the time of pig slaught. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes Botaničar Perhaps oddly located in one sense, but perfectly in another, Botaničar is a mix of art gallery, café, culture venue, situated only a few minutes from the Botanical Garden.

This part of the city seems to attract ‘underground’ venues, and it’s easy to see why. Here you will find book launches, poetry nights and, more importantly, somewhere peaceful to enjoy your tea or coffee.QB‑3, Trg Marka Marulića 6. Open 08:00-23:00; Sun 11:00-19:00.

T­B­S­J­6­W

Kavana Corso Brass and copper tones is the best way to start with a description of this cafe, oh and a piano sitting in the middle of it all. Their Instagram account will give you a better idea.

If you’ve not seen it in passing, chances are someone’s told you all about it already. Hidden away on Rapska, Kavana Corso has a 1950s / steampunky feel. Certainly worth the visit if you’re eager to try somewhere new.QJ‑3, Rapska 35, tel. (+385-1) 484 01 93. Open 06:00-24:00.

P­GTB­E­6­W

Cremme Cookies and cream is a well-known flavour in the ice cream and biscuit world, and it’s making its mark on Zagreb too. At Cremme Zagreb you’ll find not only a massive range of pies and cakes, but biscuits and ‘Mrvice’ too. If you don’t have time to sit and relax, you can always place an order and have something delivered! That’s the cookies side of things. You might also notice quite an array of face creams, bath bombs, hair products, masks... the list continues. Fully Croatian, fully natural. All the best there is for your personal care. And thus, the cream. A great spot to take a break during shopping, and a great spot to shop at while you take a break. Also at Nemčićeva 8 (J-3).QC‑1, Tkalčićeva 21, tel. (+385-1) 551 06 45, www.cremme.hr.

Open 09:00-23:00. A ­P­G­B­J­W

Meet Mia The section of Vlaška closest to the city centre is home to a wonderful grouping of shops, Meet Mia – a breakfast and brunch restaurant - being among them. Here you can get everything from tea and coffee to grilled sandwiches and dessert. Pick up something sweet to take away, or perhaps give them a call if you need something special made…QD‑2, Vlaška 43, tel. (+385-1) 468 38 23. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 10:0020:00. N ­B­S­W

Finjak Neatly nestled just off the street, Finjak finds itself alongside a number of like-minded businesses. This delightful stepback-in-time antique-filled cafe has a very nice selection of high quality teas, as well as the usual coffee fare you’d expect. Heineken and San Servolo can be found here. Indoors is non-smoking but there is an outdoor terrace.QE‑2, Vlaška 78, tel. (+385-) 098 130 0057. Open 08:30-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. G­BJ6­W Karibu Kaaawa On Trešnjevka, in between the market and the park, you’ll find this interesting spot. A coffee shop first and foremost, here you’ll find beans and brands from all over the world: Croatian, German, Belgian, Spanish, Hungarian and British.

There’s a terrace so that you can enjoy both your coffee and the summer sun, while downstairs there’s an area for children to play, safe from the midday heat. On the webstore you can pick up items such as gift boxes that were created in collaboration with the School of Applied Arts and Design in Zagreb. Each box weds the world of African and South American coffee, with coffee related souvenirs made in Croatia or from around the cities of Europe. You can also use their webstore to subscribe to receiving different bags of coffee each month. QH‑4, Ozaljska ulica 34, www.karibukaaawa.com. Open 08:00-20:00; Sat 08:3015:00; Sun 08:30-14:00. G­B­W

Program Bar Part of the team responsible for the much-missed Martićeva landmark Divas café have taken their hospitality skills up the road and launched another attempt at creating a destination café that will be markedly different to any others into which you have so far trodden.

The interior – featuring scaffolding, the odd bag of cement, and paintwork so unfinished that you can still see the roller marks – takes a subtle swipe at the overdesigned, over-themed bars elsewhere in the Croatian capital. Good coffee, fine cakes, comfy cushions and a good choice of beers and wines ensure a regular influx of greeters and gossipers. The smoking chamber right at the back has the mysterious feel of an indoor forest. QD‑2, Martićeva ulica 14F, tel. (+385-) 098 993 82 79. Open 07:00-23:00; Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun 09:0023:00. ­B­J­W Velvet This corner cafe would not be out of place in the more stylish parts of London or Paris, and it’s all too easy to fall in love with the gorgeous ‘library’ section and lose track of your day’s plans. A nice selection of teas, and they make their own cakes as well. Outdoor terracing, but the indoor seating is what caught our eye. Decadent, in a good way. Pricey, but no more so than other such spots in the area.QB‑2, Dežmanova 9, tel. (+3851) 484 67 43. Open 09:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-24:00.

A ­P GT­B­J­6­

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

31

Hangin’ Out the same time, integrating more industrial motifs and imagery. Think a mix of steampunk and Doctor Who. All in all it’s relaxing, and welcoming. The interior is handmade, original design, and the space is dominated by retro armchairs, creatively used beer bottles, oldfashioned kilns, and even tractor crates. If you think this type of different is your thing, then you must try this place at least once. If it’s not giving away too many secrets, the In Your Pocket offices are a mere quarter hour jaunt away, and you’re not at all that far from the main bus station. The nearest tram stop north of the pub is Olibska, the 2, 3, and 13 use this line, while you’ve also access via the 6, 7 and 8 lines to the southwest. That’s nearly half of all trams in Zagreb! The universe is telling you something! QK‑3/4, Rapska 20, tel. (+385-) 091 519 37 36. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-24:00.

A ­G UB6­W

Mojo Bar Archive

AKC Medika Located in a former pharmaceuticals factory tucked behind the Westin hotel, Medika is basically an anarchists’ squat that was granted official status by a city administration eager to pucker up to Zagreb’s alternative community.

A regular menu of punk, ska and jazz gigs plus raucous DJ-driven club nights attract a healthy cross-section of hedonistically-inclined youth - so you don’t need either dreadlocks or a dog on a rope to fit in. Check out their website to see what’s going on.QA‑3, Pierottijeva 11, tel. (+385-1) 619 72 23, www.attack.hr. Check their website for program of events. N ­­B­J­6­W Bikers Beer Factory Located on Savska Street next to the restaurant Mex Cantina and in a backyard encircled with garages and a big motorcycle parking lot. High tables, good staff, the interior is full wood, bricks and lights with excerpts from any bikers’ world (helmets, exhaust pipes etc). Jukebox and good choice of foreign beer. Sounds like a ZZ Top clip!QI‑4, Savska 150, tel. (+385-) 099 848 56 63, www. bikersbeerfactory.hr. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 10:0024:00. N ­P­T­B­E­6­W Hard place At “the Biggest Little Rock Club in Town,” the dance floor, like the concert program is always packed. With cheap beer and live shows most nights, there’s no reason not to rub leather jacket-covered shoulders where Elvis aficionados and local Punk legends receive equal billing under the “Good Spirit of Rock’n’Roll.”QI‑4, Ulica hrvatske bratske zajednice 4, www.hardplace.hr. Open 09:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; closed Sun. N­P­B­W Hub Cooltura Pub Hub Cooltura Pub might be considered ‘normal’ or it might be considered ‘different’. It looks like you’d expect a café or pub to look like… a combination of rustic, local styles, and it looks radically different at 32 Zagreb In Your Pocket

KC Mesnička A small club in the city centre, especially productive with literary evenings, exhibitions, jazz jam sessions, live concerts and dj sets. The upper part of the club is great for drinking coffee, while the music events are held in the smaller basement.QB‑1, Mesnička 12, tel. (+385-) 091 604 00 70. Open 07:00-24:00.

KSET On the cutting edge of all things cool, KSET has gained a reputation for some especially cool live shows that include flawless jazz, rock and punk concerts as well as DJ performances and theatre plays. Club run strictly by students is known for its cultural impact, chill atmosphere and urban interior.QB‑4, Unska 3, www.kset.org/. Open 20:0024:00; closed Sun. N ­G­B­E­6­W Landsky Bar Near the Zagreb tram depot at Ljubljanica, cocktail fans will find their favourite pilgrimage site. Apart from its unique design and some of the best cocktails in town, the name itself holds an interesting story. Paula Landsky was the first Croatian ticket inspector on trams who got hired during the First World War. Landsky bar is paying tribute to this exceptional lady who worked 12 hours a day, raised 8 children and lived to be 101. As you probably guess, the main design theme of the bar is the tram and the colour that prevails is blue – symbolizing Zagreb trams. QOza‑ ljska 164, tel. (+385-) 097 683 40 16. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00.

Močvara This former factory down by the river Sava is not only one of Zagreb’s premier gig and clubbing venues but also some-thing of an offbeat cultural centre, with something going on most nights of the week-film nights, theatre performances, literary events and art happenings included. Artist Igor Hofbauer’s woozy comic-strip decor in the bar area is reason enough to call in. The club’s bar is open from 17:00 to 24:00 every day, in addition to organized concerts, exhibitions, panels and special events, which you can track on their Facebook page. The club’s bar is open from 17 to 24 every day, in addition to special zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Hangin’ Out

events.QI‑3, Trnjanski nasip 1 -3, tel. (+385-1) 615 96 67, www.mochvara.hr. Open 17:00-24:00. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page. N­P ­G ­U­ B­E­L­6­W Mr. Fogg An established steampunk venue, Mr. Fogg is spacious and continues to grow in popularity. Exposed brickwork, dials and gauges abound, and unusual metal sculptures everywhere. If you’re the sort of café-goer who loves taking photos of your surrounds, then you must set aside an afternoon or night and make a trip to Martićeva. When you do get here you’ll see a wide range of spirits, several of which are unique to Mr. Fogg. These are used to tweak various cocktails so as to mirror the journeys of Phileas Fogg himself. There’s also a list of bespoke cocktails, with the barstaff only too happy to help you in designing one all for you! QE‑2, Martićeva 31, www.facebook.com/ BarMrFogg. Open 07:00-24:00; Sun 08:00-24:00. B­J Pločnik Covering three floors, the concept successfully melds music with cutting-edge design and the latest-and-greatest from the alternative world of street art, into one multi-functional space. Visit the cafe bar on the ground floor to chill out on vintage couches while sipping a local craft beer in a collective living room-like atmosphere inspired by New York City from the 1930’s. Go upstairs to the record store, listen to your favourite music and come away with a rare vinyl record, or facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

step into the basement in the evening to check out the nightclub (the program starts in October) and temporary art gallery. Pločnik is a collective lifestyle concept that’s definitely not to be missed.QH‑3, Međimurska 21, tel. (+385-) 091 430 07 33, www.pozitivanritam.hr/plocnik. Open 11:00-24:00; closed Sun. A ­B­E­6­W Sax! This is the place to take in some live music, for it plays here every night and is an especially delicious and wide array of styles. Blues, jazz, rock, pop and much more are all featured, and the crowd tends to be especially happy for their chance to take the night of fun in. Admission varies depending on the show - this place is a can’t miss.QD‑3, Palmotićeva 22, tel. (+385-1) 487 28 36, www.sax-zg.hr.

Open 20:00-04:00; closed Sun. N­G­W Vintage Industrial Bar This American-like, rock and roll-feel bar has more than just a few drinks to offer. Grab a beer on tap with some friends and delight in a wide variety of concerts, dance performances, theater acts, film screenings or even literary meetings. The brick walls, occasionally splashed with graffiti and black and white photography, create the perfect environment to wind-down. And best of all, you don’t need to worry about parking because the front entrance is a spacious parking lot.QI‑4, Savska cesta 160, tel. (+385-1) 619 17 15/(+385-) 098 34 00 20, www.vintageindustrial-bar.com. Open 09:00-24:00.

P­TB­E­6­ Winter / Spring 2022

33

Hangin’ Out Shopping

34 Your Pocket Take Zagreb me HomeIn Archive

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Shopping Nataša Nataša In the heart of Zagreb’s design district, on the corner of Martićeva and Bauerova you’ll find a little shop owned

by Nataša Mihaljčišin, one of the two designers behind renowned Croatian fashion label i-gle, which is sadly no more. Nataša definitely designs the most beautiful and creative knitwear in Zagreb. QMartićeva.

Planetopija This bright and welcoming bookshop specialises in everything related to healthy living: cookery books, vegetarianism, environmentalism, conscious parenting, health and personal development - in Croatian and in English. There’s a lovely selection of books designed to awaken ethical sensibilities in children, plus a range of eco-friendly toys and gifts for everyone.QB‑2, Ilica 68, tel. (+385-1) 484 61 97, www.planetopija.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:0015:00; closed Sun. A­J

Arena Centar Arena Centar is the favorite shopping center in Zagreb and beyond because it is a safe, relaxed and friendly for all.

To keep it that way, we kindly ask our visitors to pay special attention to the preventive measures, procedures and recommendations we have taken at the Arena Centar due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Check the opening hours of the Arena Center at this link.QH‑5, Ulica Vice Vukova 6, tel. (+385-1) 666 14 11, www.arenacentar.hr/en/. Open 09:00-21:00.

Stripovi na kvadrat An abundance of comics from this part of Europe as well as the best known English editions are hot off the press here.

Heaps of figurines, t-shirts, badges, toys, games, DVDs and gifts are also available and their website is updated with the latest releases.QC‑3, Preradovićeva 34, tel. (+3851) 483 77 77, www.stripovi.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-15:00; closed Sun. A

Bookara (Bookshop) Bookara is a neighborhood bookstore and sells quality fiction, science fiction, comics, popular science, philosophy, top journalism. They also offer a board game program, and nurture an individualized approach and are interested in what their customers want to read.QMaksimirska 39, tel. (+385-) 091 510 86 34. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat 11:0021:00; closed Sun. A Lutak Lutak is a little cottage industry making handmade toys. It may not be the most shiny and modern,tucked away in the backstreets as it is, buthere you’ll find such endearing characters to capture your children’s imagination. If you’d like to support a local small business this is a great place to find utterly charming gifts for little ones. QTuškanova 34, tel. (+385-0) 91 892 6084. The atelier is open 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 17:00 20:00 and you can always call for an appointment. facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop Tomićeva 4 (near Funicular) www.takemehome.hr

Take Me Home - Croatian Design Shop The perfect place to pick up some chic Croatian gifts and souvenirs created by over 60 local designers. Tote bags with traditional Croatian motifs printed on modern designs, unique jewellery, trendy notebooks and planners, art prints, Winter / Spring 2022

35

Shopping cool t-shirts, awarded kids’ toys and handmade cosmetics to take home from your trip.QB‑2, Tomićeva 4 (near Funicu‑ lar), tel. (+385-1) 798 76 32, www.takemehome.hr. Open 09:30-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Top - niche perfumery Shopping for fragrances, then head to TOP for a journey of the senses! Their range includes more than fifty exquisite perfumes, skin care and home fragrance brands including Byredo, Escentric Molecules, Juliette Has A Gun, Profvmvm Roma through to Australian Aesop, Dr. Barbara Sturm and more. Other accessories include hard-to-find scented candles and diffusors amongst other items. So turn your home into a sweetly scented haven! You can find them at two city locations, in Tomićeva Street near the funicular, and on the main Ban Jelačić Square.QB‑2 & C‑2, Tomićeva 4 & Trg bana J.Jelačića 13, tel. (+385-1) 798 09 69, www.top. hr. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J Tvoje.hr There are a couple of very special florists in Zagreb, which are also little conceptual stores. Tvoje.hr is owned by architect and florist Boška Bahtijarević, and everything in it is an expression of her personality and unique bohemian style. QMartićeva 16f, tel. (+385 - 1) 465 19 84. Open 10:00-20:00; Mon 16:0020:00; Sat 10:00-15:00; closed Sun. A­J

Ulični Ormar Nikole Jurišića 16 www.ulicni-ormar.hr.

Ulični Ormar The English translation means ‘Street Wardrobe’ and this treasure of a store holds second hand vintage and retro clothes that have stood the test of time. It’s purely vintage with some outstanding items up for grabs. Situated in a small courtyard, only few minutes walking distance from the main square, come and enjoy the atmosphere, music and authenticity of each piece.QC‑3, Nikole Jurišića 16, tel. (+385-1) 492 65 00, www.ulicni-ormar.hr. Open 10:0020:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; closed Sun. From 50kn. A ­J­6 Vintage Circus This local clothing brand was built around distinctive and unique clothing suggesting that something doesn’t need to be in fashion to be fashionable; refreshing to say the least. The clothes here are made in small series’ by fashion designer Lidija Bošnjak who focuses on detail, high quality materials, functionality and longevity.QD‑2, Jurišićeva 10, tel. (+385 - ) 095 911 16 22, www.vintage-circus.hr.

Open 09:00-20:00; Sat 09:00-16:00; closed Sun. A 36 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Great Days Out: Medvednica

“Horvat’s 500 Steps” is another popular place to check out. It’s where Vladimir Horvat (1891-1962), a journalist, publicist, photographer and nature lover, who wished to make this part of the mountain accessible for everyone to enjoy, carved out 500 steps. At the bottom of the steps is a valley with a stream where the spirited Mr. Horvat built benches and a shelter that you can still use today.

Medvednica Nature Park Archive

Mount Medvednica is a beautiful nature park that merges with the capital city lying at its base. It is an area in which natural, cultural and historic values intertwine, a popular weekend spot for the city dwellers all year round.

Zagreb and its mountain have had a long history together.

The mountain once used to be the source of life and protection. Today, hiking on Medvednica is one of the favourite pastimes for Zagreb locals. They flock to the mountain to enjoy the fresh air, hang out with friends and admire fantastic views of Zagreb. Sljeme’s summit is at an altitude of 1035 m, so it makes for a good 2-hour hike. Numerous calories will be burnt on the way up. Hiking, mountain biking, skiing, trekking, sledding: these are just some of the activities that Medvednica offers. Even if you are not the sporty type, it is worth a trip to the top to soak up the views, breathe in fresh air and to enjoy the simple but unbeatable home-cooked food at the numerous mountain lodges.

THE NAME The name of the mountain is derived from a Slavic word medved meaning the bear. The discoveries of numerous bear bones suggest that this once used to be a bears’ habitat.

ACCESSIBILITY The summit of of the mountain, Sljeme, can be reached on foot, by bike, by car or by public bus. If you decide to facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

drive to the top, you can approach Medvednica from the south (Mihaljevac-Gračanska road and along Bliznec street to the top) or from the northern, Zagorje side (via Stubičke Toplice, along Strmečka cesta and Pila to the top). The new cable car is expected to be in operation in the near future.

WONDERFUL VISTAS Medvednica has recently celebrated its 40th birthday as a Nature Park. This green oasis provides not only peace and tranquility, but also breathtaking views on both sides. The highest peak, Sljeme (Summit), is dominated by the TV tower and right next to it is a viewing point overlooking the picturesque region of Croatian Zagorje.

NATURE Walking on Medvednica is a proper forest immersion experience. Wherever you go, trees soar high above you, majestically rustling. Within the Park, there are 8 protected forest reservations. You will come across many common species such as oak, chestnut, beech, but also the rare ones like linden and yew. There is a belief that the yew tree has great powers, which is reflected in some modern fiction. The evil wizard, Voldemort, from the Harry Potter series of books has a magic wand made of this tree.

HIKING TRAILS Medvednica stretches 42 km and offers 70 hiking blazed trails of various length and degree of difficulty. You may Winter / Spring 2022

37

also choose among several interpretative walks and educational trails. Of special note is the Bliznec forest trail which is completely adapted for visitors with disabilities.

Through the educational boards set up along the trail you will learn about the colourful history of Medvednica, its flora and fauna. Other educational trails include the Miro‑ slavec trail and the Bikčević trail, one of the most visited trails in Park.

MOUNTAIN HUTS Hikers usually head to one of the numerous mountain huts for a warm and tasty local meal. On the menu you will find a wide range of inexpensive traditional dishes. The nearest mountain lodge is Glavica, which can be reached from the west side of town. It is only a half an hour walk, therefore easy and convenient both for adults, and for children. One of the most popular Medvednica lodges is Puntijarka, mostly because of its deliciously tempting homemade cuisine. Other mountain lodges where you can try simple and delicious home-cooked food are Grafičar, Lugareva kućica, Vidikovac, Runolist, Mala Hunjka, and Lipa Rog. CHAPEL OF OUR LADY OF SLJEME, QUEEN OF CROATS A short walk from the hilltop, down the wide grassy slope (Činovnička livada), you will come across a charming chapel, named the Chapel of Our Lady of Sljeme, Queen of Croats. “Wearing” a vest of local Medvednica stone and wood, this chapel completely blends with the surroundings.

The ruins of the old medieval town of Susedgrad have been preserved to this day. The hill on which the medieval town is located rises steeply above a main railway line and road, which follows the River Sava. Near Susedgrad, towards Zaprešić, the river Krapina flows into the Sava. The old town of Susedgrad can be reached from Zagreb via Aleja Bologna. From there, in Podsused,turn right into Aleja Seljačke bune. At the beginning, on the left, is the start of a promenade through a landscaped park to the ruins of Susedgrad.

It offers a beautiful view of the Sava River and the lakes near Samobor.

SNOW QUEEN TROPHY Snow ball fights, sledding, snowboarding, and skiing on the mountain are popular winter pastimes. Ski slopes (White, Green, Blue and Red) and lifts are situated on the north slopes with the total length being 4.000 meters. The most famous skiing competition held on the mountain is the FIS World Ski Cup competition, known as the Snow Queen Trophy. It is a slalom race with separate events for men and for women. The winners of these two races are crowned as Snow King and Snow Queen.

MEDVEDNICA CASTLES Throughout the Middle Ages, people sought protection on hilltops, behind the stone walls of fortified strongholds.

That period saw the construction of the castles of Med‑ vedgrad on the central, Susedgrad on the western side and Zelingrad on the easternmost part of the mountain.

You can travel back to Mediaeval times by visiting the Medvedgrad Castle and its recently opened Visitors’ Center. In this castle, throughout the summer, a diverse and entertaining program of film and music events is offered for all to enjoy.

www.inyourpocket.com 38 Zagreb In Your Pocket

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Great Days Out: Medvednica

In this area, the main food found on the dining tables of all homes during winter is sauerkraut, kiseli kupus, also called the doctor of the poor as it thrives well, there is plenty of it, and for this very reason it is inexpensive and available to everyone.

Sauerkraut holds a large amount of nutrients which is why it is an extremely healthy and nutritious food. The most popular dish made of sauerkraut is sarma or stuffed minced meat wrapped in cabbage leaves. Sauerkraut is usually served with either grilled sausages or buncek ham - dried pork forearm, or with blood sausages and hash-browns.

Winter is simply not the same without these hotly prepared tender foods that keep us resistant to the outside cold and prepared in traditional ways to be enjoyed by all! We can’t remember ever having a single bad meal in a mountain lodge. The smell of sauerkraut, sausages, cottage cheese with cream, strudel, turkey with mlinci, mulled wine...and the list sumptuously goes on! Mountain lodges are places where you can still eat ‘old school style cuisines’ just as our ancestors used to in old Zagreb pubs - and still do in many homes today. Without a doubt, you will often see families of all generations, friends and people who still have that one thing in common – a love of hiking and good food that awaits them at the end of the road...

facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

CAVES AND BATS With more than seven kilometres of branching passages, Veternica is the sixth largest cave in Croatia by size. With the professional guidance, it is possible to visit the first 380 meters of the cave see its attractions: cave decorations, traces of early men’s residence dating to some 42.000 years ago, and bats. There are 18 bat species recorded in the Veternica cave, 12 of which hibernate here during the whole of winter. You can take part in the “Adopt a Bat” program which was developed to raise awareness about this endangered animal.

ZRINSKI MINE Medvednica’s geological origins are extensive. Zrinski Mine opened here in the 16th century when the noble family of Zrinski started extracting silver. Mining was an extremely hard and hazardous occupation at that time: some thirty miners were taking shifts of 10 to 12 hours digging out the precious ore using only hammers, wedges, pickaxes and shovels. In 2004 the reconstructed Mine opened for visitors and was later registered as part of the protected cultural heritage of the Republic of Croatia.

Winter / Spring 2022

39

Great Days Out: Medvednica

If you have smaller children, Vukov dol is a real adventure for them. You can reach it by road towards Planina donja, i.e. in the direction of the Lipa Rog lodge. There is a short path on the road that you can visit even with the youngest children. A team of volunteers from Planina Donja arranged an educational, interactive, ingenious path for children. From forest theatre to countless great games, learning in nature, here you can have a great trip.

40 Zagreb InArambašić Your Pocket Photos

by Višnja

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Biser Zagorja Archives

Zagorje EDEN Destinations Just north of Zagreb, on the other side of the Medvednica mountain, lies a pristine green region with rich cultural and historical heritage. It is crisscrossed with rivers and streams, crowned by picturesque hills, and has many traditional wine cellars and beautiful vistas. Here you can experience the authentic country life undisturbed by the usual city chaos, hustle and bustle. Zagorje region is the traditional part of Croatia where many of the customs are preserved; where the food is of superb quality and completely organic. It is a magical place that alleviates tension and stress, a place where one can relax and recharge batteries.

So, what is it that attracts us to Zagorje?

Besides the highest concentration of castles in Croatia and a number of great wine cellars, Zagorje abounds in Thermal Spas and Wellness. Some of these thermal springs have been in use since the Roman times. The healing powers of the spas are believed to cure or ameliorate the symptoms of many ailments, thanks to their unique mineral content.

The three top ones listed below are proud owners of the European Des-

tination of Exellance title and are recognized as EDEN destinations.

Terme Tuhelj, Krapinske Toplice or Stubičke Toplice all provide wellness retreats with healing properties of their own springs. There are numerous accommodation options in the area, ranging from modern apartments or houses near the tourist centers, to households in secluded areas amidst the beautiful natural surroundings, serving as a perfect escape from the city hustle and bustle.

You may also look up the exclusive Terme Tuhelj Glamping Village.

Tuheljske Toplice (thermal spas) The Water Planet of Terme Tuhelj is the largest swimming pool complex in Croatia with many water attractions. Accommodation is offered in a 4-star Hotel Well that comprises spacious rooms, a sauna & jacuzzi and an amazing Aqua Park surrounded by a lush landscape of rolling hills.

Krapinske Toplice (thermal spas) Krapinske Toplice with its wellknown thermal spas is nestled in a beautiful valley, close to the Slove-

nian border. It is popular because of its numerous health care facilities with water rich in calcium and magnesium content, that treats everything from spine conditions to diabetes and heart disease. It has a new Aquae Vivae water park, a spa centre with saunas, and a restaurant. You can stay at the Hotel Villa Magdalena, the first exclusive, small four-star hotel boasting luxury units in Zagorje.

Stubičke Toplice (thermal spas) The first spa resort dates back to 1811 when the Bishop of Zagreb, Maksimilian Vrhovac, financed the construction of the building in Stubičke Toplice with an indoor swimming pool which was later named after him, “Maksimilianeum”. Today it is a prominent spa and rehabilitation centre, equipped with modern medical equipment for providing quality physiotherapy services and medical rehabilitation. The accommodation facilities include the Special Hospital with three interconnected facilities and a capacity of 267 beds and the hotel Matija Gubec 2* with an indoor pool and a restaurant serving local specialties.

Day Trips for History & Culture

Homeland War Museum Archives

Within easy reach of Zagreb there’s a host of natural and cultural attractions.

Here’s our Top 8, they’re well worth seeing so don’t miss out!

Dubovac Castle (Stari grad Dubovac) Its name originating from the oak forests of the area (Dub or Dab = Oak), the Old Town of Dubovac dates back to the 13th century. Dubovac Castle is only a short walk away from the centre of town (northwest from the Star), just head for the highest hill your eye can see. Once you reach the top of the castle-s prehistoric hill, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of the city below and its long stretching Kupa River. The castle was built in the 13th century for the Gorić-Babonić counts and further expanded upon in the 15th century where the castle was rebuilt in Renaissance fashion. The former owners included the noble Slavonian Sudars (1387) and the Frankopans (1442). By the 16th century, it had passed into the hands of Stjepan Frankopan’s sister Katarina as a wedding gift when she married the famous Croatian nobleman and warrior, Nikola Šubić Zrinski. Gašpar Šubić Peranski possessed the property in 1576 and in the later part of the 16th century Dubovac Castle was used as a granary as the developing town of Karlovac became an important trade centre. The keep, then entered by a small drawbridge, was used as a jail. From 1671 onwards until the arrival of the French in 1809, the old city was owned by the generals of Karlovac. In 1837 Earl Laval Nugent restored it in the spirit of Romanticism. It was later bought by the city of Dubovac in 1896. Perfectly located, the preserved castle and tower is remarkably charming…you almost expect to see figures from another era dashing about.QZagrad Gaj ul. 5, Karlovac, tel. (+38547) 61 59 80. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Last ad‑ mission 30 minutes before closing.

42 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Gallery Joseph Generalić in Hlebine (Galerija Josip Generalić - Hlebine) Naïve art is a famous technique of Croatian painting with motifs of village life a key figure. See some of the gems created by Generalić as well as personal items, family photos, pictures, and drawings depicting his life.QLjudevita Gaja 75, Hlebine, tel. (+385-48) 83 64 30/(+385-) 098 971 38 46, 098 95145 96, www.galerija-josip-generalic. hr. Open 09:30.16:30; Sat 10:30-15:30; Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Holandska kuća (“The Dutch House”) The “Dutch House” is a welcome new addition to the institutions preserving and promoting Croatia’s industrial heritage. In Sisak, a city well-known as an industrial centre, the unusual pyramid-shaped façade of the Dutch House truly evokes the buildings on Amsterdam’s canal sides. It was built in the 19th century as commercial premises and a large warehouse. The beautifully restored complex also houses the Striegl art gallery and the Kraker collection of phonographs, gramophones and radios. QRimska ulica br. 10, Sisak, tel. (+385-44) 811 811, www.tzg-sisak.hr/ info-centar-industrijske-bastine-holandska-kuca/.

Open 07:30-15:30; Sat, Sun 10:00-14:00; closed Mon. 10 - 15 kn.

Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej krapinskih Neandertalaca) The Neanderthal Museum in Krapina was opened in February 2010 and is a brilliant day out. Designed by Croatian experts with the assistance of museums, artists zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Day Trips for History & Culture and multimedia experts from around the globe, it uses leading-edge technology to create a unique experience.

It illustrates the story of life on Earth and the evolution of mankind, explaining the importance of fossilised Neanderthal remains discovered here and the way that their significance was deciphered. The museum is located at Hušnjakovo, the site where fossilised Neanderthal remains dating back 130 000 years were found. After enjoying the interactive museum displays, you can walk outside and see the site of the dig.QŠetalište Vilibalda Sluge bb, Krapina, tel. (+385-49) 37 14 91, fax (+385-49) 37 49 68, www.mkn.mhz.hr. Open 09:00-17:00; closed Mon. Last entrance an hour before closing. Admission 60/30 kn.

Modić Bedeković Kurija Built in 1806 by assessor Petar Modić, this kurija is still in the Modić-Bedeković family, which is perhaps why it is the best preserved kurija in Turopolje. As was traditionally the case with these two-storey houses, the ground floor is given over to storage and utility rooms, while the living quarters are upstairs. A grand room called the palača was reserved for receiving guests, and by all accounts there were plenty of them here, as the Modić’s entertained the cream of Croatian literary society. Since this is a private house, sadly you won’t be able to see upstairs, although the caretaker might be around and show you the ground floor spaces. The house is still furnished and decorated in 19th century style. The interior walls are plastered.

This was the home of twin sisters Vilma and Milka Bedeković, born in 1883. Highly educated, especially for their time, both sisters were artistic souls. Milka not only studied art in Paris and Munich and taught at the school for young ladies in Zagreb, she also took part in the public life of Velika Gorica, sitting on the town council. The sisters bequeathed a number of her paintings as well as other artefacts to the Turopolje Museum.

Visits to the Modić Bedeković Kurija will be orga‑ nized exclusively with prior notice. QDonja Lom‑ nica, tel. (+385-1) 622 13 25, www.muzej-turopolja.hr.

Open 09:00-15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-13:00; closed Mon. Open by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn.

Museum of the Croatian War of Independence (Muzej Domovinskog rata Karlovac) 50 km southwest of Zagreb,the city of Karlovac was founded in 1579 to defend the southern borders of the Austrian Empire against the Ottoman Empire. In the 1990s it retained its strategic role and was the scene of bitter fighting between the armies of the Republic of Croatia and the self-proclaimed Republic of Serbian Krajina. At Turanj, just off the motorway on the road to the Plitvice National Park, a former military barracks has been transformed into a modern interactive museum about the history of the war and its impact on the city’s people. It’s well worth stopping to explore, for adults and kids alike. QTuranj 2, Karlovac, tel. (+385-47) 659 097, www.gmk.hr. Open 08:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. 25 - 60 kn. Family Admission 120 kn.

The Antun Augustinčić Studio Gallery Antun Augustinčić, one of the foremost 20th century Croatian sculptors, donated his life’s works to his home town.

His great ability to create on a grand scale can be seen in the giant relief and statue of Matija Gubec in Gornja Stubica, but he is also very successful on a smaller scale which makes a visit to this museum essential for anyone with even a passing interest in sculpture. Possibly children would be impressed, too.QUlica dr. Ivana Broza 2,, Klan‑ jec, tel. (+385-49) 55 03 43. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admisson 15/55 kn.

Veliki Tabor Castle (Dvor Veliki Tabor) Veliki Tabor is one of the best preserved late medieval and renaissance fortified settlements in inland Croatia, and is a mighty construction indeed, dominating a hilltop and visible for miles around. It was built by the aristocratic Rattkay family in the 16th century, and remained in their hands until 1793. The oldest part of the complex is the late gothic palace which was their residence. The palace is surrounded by four semi-circular renaissance towers, and this complex was encircled by a defensive wall with a bastion.

The views from its hilltop are fabulous.QKošnički Hum 1, Desinić, tel. (+385-49) 37 49 70, www.veliki-tabor.hr/.

Open 09:00-16:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/15 kn.

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

43

Varaždin County Although third in terms of population, Varaždin County is one of the smaller Croatian counties, located in the northwestern part of the country.

This is the region where hills meet the valleys, where the tips of the Alps touch the great Pannonian plain, thus enchanting its visitors and providing them with long-lasting and unforgettable experiences.

VA R A Ž D I N COUNTY

touris

t boar d

Exceptional beauty of the surrounding landscape, an abundance of cultural monuments and a rich gastronomic heritage all intertwine to create this especially beautiful destination.

Photo by Miljenko Hegedić

Varaždin Historic City Core In the historical necklace of Central European cities, Varaždin stands as a rare, urban pearl. It is a city of harmony and charm, a city that shows its urban identity and continuity not only through the historical Old Town and the beauty of the city’s Baroque architecture, but also through the cosiness of its squares, streets and parks, and the richness of the museum collections. Varaždin has been nicknamed the ‘Croatian Vienna’, a city of baroque, music and flowers, a place that serves as a perfect retreat for its visitors.

44 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Varaždin Old Town The first image of Varaždin that comes to mind is the postcard-like setting of the Old Town, the most important and most magnificent historical structure in the city. Today, the Old Town houses the City Museum, a must for every visitor, while the medieval city walls and moats surrounding it provide a pleasant stroll for the people of Varaždin and their guests.

Strossmayerovo šetalište bb, Varaždin, www.gmv.hr

zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Varaždin County Photo by Krešimir Đurić

Photo by Siniša Sović

Photo by Jurinec photography

Photo by Domagoj Sever

Romantic Trakošćan Castle Trakošćan is a castle with fairytale beauty in northern Croatia and one of the most romantic castles that you can visit in your lifetime. Surrounded by the beautiful forest and lake park, the eight-centuries-old castle is one of the most attractive castle-museums in Europe. Learn all about the Thracian fortress, Arx Thracorum and the German knights, Drachenstein, explore the legends of the dragon and the lavish life of the Croatian aristocracy over the past centuries.

Trakošćan 4, Bednja, www.trakoscan.hr The beauty of Lepoglava Lace This miraculous lace, which is believed to have been brought to Croatia by the Paulines several centuries ago, is a special feature of Lepoglava and the surrounding area. In 2009, lace making was included in the representative UNESCO List of Intangible Heritage, and the true art of Lepoglava lace makers can best be experienced at the “International Lace Festival”, which is held every September. If you do not have the opportunity to visit the Festival you can view the exhibits and buy this unique, local artwork at the Lepoglava Lace Gallery.

Hrvatskih pavlina 7, Lepoglava, www.lepoglavskacipka.hr Sweeten your palate - try Varaždinske Toplice ‘Spa cake’ If you are in Varaždinske Toplice, the oldest thermal spa in Croatia, make sure you try the magic dessert - Toplice‘spa cake’. The cake combines eggs, sugar, nuts, black coffee, milk and chocolate and a ‘secret ingredient’ to make an irresistible treat. Spa cake is made according to a recipe from the 19th century and is decorated in the traditional way.

The treat was served in the Varaždinske Toplice restaurants at the time when the area was known as one of the most facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Photo by Domagoj Sever

prominent Central European spa resorts. The accepted way to do it then, was to serve it to the guests during the long afternoon hours with champagne. Today you can taste the famous ‘Spa Cake’ in the Bernarda restaurant.

Zagrebačka 7, Varaždinske Toplice, www.restoranbernarda.eu Oil for good health and top gastronomic pleasure Pumpkin seed oil, once only a locally prized food, is today an indispensable part of the culinary creations of the world’s most famous chefs. Produced by the traditional high-quality pumpkin seed pressing process, this oil is a unique gift of nature, a natural remedy and a true delicacy. The Andreja Petrović Family Farm Visitor Center will introduce its guests to the process of pumpkin seed oil production and other pumpkin seed and spelt products on offer. Tasting is, naturally, an essential and enjoyable part of the visit.

Zagrebačka 238, Varaždin, www.eko-petrovic.hr Learn how to make organic cosmetics “Kuća magične trave” (“House of Magic Grass”) is a brand of domestic, ecological cosmetics produced from medicinal plants and biodynamic cultivation, at the Family Farm Jakopović, which is situated on the slopes of Paka near Novi Marof. Cosmetic products are made according to innovative recipes. They are environmentally certified and contain no preservatives, parabens or artificial colors, and have been in the service of health and beauty overt he past ten years. Enjoy the fresh air in the fields of the ‘House of Magic Grass’ in Paka, learn how to make ecological cosmetics from medicinal herbs and feel the magical power of serenity at this charming estate.

Paka 26, Novi Marof, www.opg-jakopovic.hr Winter / Spring 2022

45

Getting Around

Arena Zagreb Archive

buses

Airport

While Zagreb has several smaller hubs and terminals for citywide public buses and trams, there is only one intercity terminal. This can be found to the south east of the city centre, on Avenija Marina Držića, best known as Držićeva. If you wish to get here from the city centre, i.e. from the main square Trg Bana Jelačić, just grab the first 6 you see coming from the west, in the direction of Sopot.

The numbers 2, 5, 7 and 8 also stop in front of the station! The 3, 9 and 13 will also run near, but you’ll have to get off and walk one stop further. The majority of timetables are online, with some like Flixbus having additional services listed only on their own site. Tickets can be purchased online and collected at any of 15 points within the terminal itself. If time is a luxury, you can also purchase tickets by phone and have them delivered to your doorstep. Be aware that there is a narrow afternoon delivery window. The coach service for the airport, Pleso prijevoz, leaves from here, every half an hour. If you’re only stopping in Zagreb, waiting on a connecting bus and have a few hours to grab dinner or a drink then you’ll find several cafes along the front of the terminal as well as the excellent Magazinska klet – Pri staroj smokvi to the rear on Strojarska cesta. Try the Leskovački voz (Leskovac ‘train’) while there.

The new passenger terminal at the Franjo Tuđman Air‑ port, located 17km out of town and with a capacity of hosting 5 million passengers per year, went into commercial use in spring 2017. Getting to Town: Pleso prijevoz (www.plesoprijevoz.hr) runs a bus service from Franjo Tuđman Airport to the Zagreb Bus Station (autobusni kolodvor), which leaves according to flight schedules from outside the international arrivals and costs 30kn/ person. Those willing to part with a bit more cash can catch a taxi in front of the international arrivals. Due to the specific location of the Airport, taxi rates can differ significantly.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor) QE‑4, Avenija M. Držića bb, tel. (+385-) 072 500 400, www.akz.hr.

46 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Franjo Tuđman International Airport Zagreb (Zračna luka Franjo Tuđman Zagreb)QRudolfa Fizira 1, tel. (+385-) 060 32 03 20, www.zagreb-airport.hr.

trains The main train station can be found at the south eastern corner of the Lenuci Horseshoe, a series of parks that were built in the 1800s when this part of the city was considered the outskirts. Here you can find your train for local, national, and international destinations.

Access to the station is possible to the rear, where you’ll find a bus terminal servicing multiple suburbs across the south of the city. Once there, you’re walkzagreb.inyourpocket.com

Getting Around ing distance to the city centre, and a pleasurable walk too through three of the parks of the Horseshoe, Trg kralja Tomislava, Park Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, and Zrinjevac. The latter two play host to several festivals through the year, while the nearest to the station turns into an ice rink for Advent. If you need to go further afield than the centre you’ll find tram numbers 2, 4, 6, 9 and 13 passing in either direction, while taxis can also be found out front.

Main Train Station (Glavni kolodvor) QC‑4, Trg kralja Tomislava 12, tel. (+385-1) 378 25 83, www.hzpp.hr.

Public transport Trams & Buses Getting around town is made all the much easier via the city’s Tram and Bus Systems, both of which can take you from A to Z. Tramwise, the city has 15 tram lines that run from 04:00 - 24:00; the night trams (4 lines) run from 24:00 - 04:00. In terms of buses, a list of departure times can be found at all bus stops marked by the blue signs with a bus picture. The biggest bus stop is just south of C-4, Glavni kolodvor through the Importanne Mall passage. There are 146 daily bus lines and 4 night lines which link Zagreb, Sesvete, Velika Gorica and Zaprešić. The largest and most known tram and bus stations are positioned at Črnomerec, Dubec, Glavni kolodvor, and Savski most. Bus station on Kvaternik Square is also important because it connects Zagreb with the airport. Tickets cost 10kn for daily transport and 15kn for night rides (00:00 – 04:00), each is valid for 90 minutes, while daily tickets are 30kn. A 4kn ticket (6kn from driver) is valid for short rides up to 30 minutes, a 7kn ticket (10kn from driver) up to 60 minutes. Tickets are available at kiosks and ZET store or from the driver on buses, and trams.

Children under six ride free. Please validate your ticket once you board: an invalidated ticket is as good as no ticket at all, and getting caught without one is an embarrassing and costly experience, with inspectors operating on a random schedule. For detailed schedules and route plans of ZET buses and trams, simply visit www.zet.hr. Qtel. (+385-) 072 50 04 00, www. zet.hr.

taxis Eko taxi As soon as you reach Zagreb, download Eko Taxi’s free and easy to use application which is available on IOS and Android Systems, and you can order a taxi without even making a call. These are hybrid vehicles, the starting price is 4kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 3,6kn. All luggage is free of charge and the prices are the same for night rides, Sundays and public holidays.QVodovodna 20a, tel. (+385-1) 549 94 74/(+385-1) 1414, (+385-1) 607 777, fax (+385-1) 889 20 11, www.ekotaxi.hr. Open 24 hours. A facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

REAL ESTATE AGENCY

RENTING AND SELLING PROPERTY IN ZAGREB FOR 30 YEARS WE OFFER • Client focused approach • Professional and experienced agents • Combination of international experience and in-depth knowledge of the market • Wide offer of high-quality properties in Zagreb’s upmarket areas • Comprehensive support throughout the renting, selling or purchase process, including legal and relocation support Licensed Agency. Ethics Code Signatory.

01 48 11 848 info@zagrebwest.hr www.zagrebwest.hr

Winter / Spring 2022

47

Getting Around

Radio taksi Zagreb Taxis should only charge a 10kn flat fee plus 6kn/km.

These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage whilst the price for waiting is 40kn per hour. You can find lines of them in front of all major hotels, the train and bus stations and numerous other central locations.

QD‑6, Božidara Magovca 55, tel. (+385-1) 660 06 71/(+385-1) 660 12 35, fax (+385-1) 669 26 86, www. radiotaxizagreb.com/hr/.

Taxi Cammeo These taxis do not park at the usual taxi stands but you can stop them by raising your hand or by phoning 1212 and 060 71 00. The starting price is 5kn, and every kilometre thereafter costs 3kn whilst the price for waiting is 1kn per minute. These prices are consistent for night rides, holidays and weekends. There is no additional charge for luggage.QJ‑4, Ulica Damira Tomljanovića Gavrana 15, tel. (+385-1) 212 12 12/(+385-) 060 71 00, www.cammeo.hr/ hr. A

Photo by Željko Beštek

48 Zagreb In Your Pocket

Uber The Uber car service app is in full swing in Zagreb. Go anywhere in the city at any time with the tap of your finger.

Use the app to find the driver nearest to you, automatically calculate the fare and pay via their exclusive cashless system. Uber is the most affordable option for getting around. Qwww.uber.com. zagreb.inyourpocket.com

Street register

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

29. X. 1918.

C-1 Aleksandrove stube B-1 Amruševa C-2 Andrije Hebranga B-3 A. Heinza E-1 Andrije Žaje A-3 Antuna Bauera E-3 Arnoldova A-2 Augusta Šenoe D-3 A. Marina Držića E-4 Bakačeva C-2 Barčićeva E-2 Baruna Trenka C-3 Basaričekova C-1 Bednjanska B-4 Berislavićeva C-3 Biankinijeva E-2 Bogovićeva C-2 Božidara Adžije A-3 Branjugova D-2 Brešćenskoga E-2 Britanski trg A-2 Brozova A-4 Buconjićeva A-2 Bulatova A-2 Bulićeva E-2 Čačkovićeva E-1 Cesarčeva C-2 Čirilometodska C-1 Crnatkova A-4 Dalmatinska B-2 Degenova C-1 Demetrova B-1 Dežmanova B-2 Domagojeva D-4 Đorđićeva D-2 Dubravkin put B-1 Dvoranski prečac C-1 Erdödyeva E-3 Felbingerove stube C-1 Florijana Andrašeca A-4 Frane Petrića C-2

Franje Račkog D-2 Frankopanska B-3 Froudeova B-1 Golubovac B-1 Grič B-2 Grgura Ninskog C-4 Gundulićeva B-3 Habdelićeva C-1 Harmica C-2 Hochmanova A-3 Hrvojeva E-3 Ilica A-2 Ivana Gorana Kovačića B-1 Ivana Kukuljevića A-2 Ivekovićeve stube D-1 Jagićeva A-3 Janka Draškovića D-3 Jezuitski trg C-1 Jukićeva A-3 Jurišićeva C-2 Jurja Žerjavića B-3 Jurkovićeva E-1 Kačićeva A-3 Kamaufova E-2 Kamenita C-1 Kaptol C-1 Kapucinske stube B-1 Katančićeva C-3 Katarinin trg C-1 Klaićeva A-3 Kneza Borne D-3 Kneza Branimira D-4 Kneza Lj. Posavskog E-3 Kneza Mislava D-3 Kneza Mutimira D-3 Kneza Višeslava E-3 Koranska B-4 Kordunska A-2 Koturaška A-4 Kovačića Ante C-3 Kozarčeva A-1 Kotarska C-1

Kralja Držislava D-3 Kralja Zvonimira E-2 Kraljice Jelene E-3 Kranjčevićeva A-4 Križanićeva D-3 Kršnjavoga A-3 Krutićeva E-3 Krvavi most C-2 Kumičićeva C-4 Kurelčeva D-2 Kuševićeva B-1 Laginjina E-2 Lepušićeva E-3 Lisinskog B-1 Lopašićeva E-2 Ljudevita Gaja C-3 Margaretska C-2 Marićev prolaz C-2 Markovićev trg B-1 Martićeva D-2 Marulićev trg B-3 Masarykova B-2 Matičina C-3 Matoševa B-1 Mažuranićev trg B-3 Medulićeva B-3 Mesnička B-2 Mihanovićeva B/C-4 Miklouševa C-1 Mikulićeva E-1 Miramarska C-4 Mletačka B-1 Mlinarske stube C-1 Mrazovićeva D-3 Nikole Tesle C-2 Novakova D-1 Opatička C-1 Opatovina C-1 Palmotićeva D-3 Pantovčak A-2 Park Ribnjak D-1 Paromlinska C-4

Patačićkina D-2 Pavla Hatza D-3 Pavla Šubića E-3 Pavlinovićeva A-2 Perkovčeva B-3 Petrinjska C-2 Petrova E-1 Pierottijeva A-3 Pod zidom C-2 Posilovićeva E-1 Praška C-2 Preobražanska C-2 Preradovićeva C-3 Pr. Gjure Deželića A-2 Primorska A-2 Radićeva C-1 Radnička cesta J/K-3, K/L-4 Radnički dol A-1 Ribnjak C-1 Rokov perivoj B-2 Rokova A-2 Rubetićeva D-1 Ruđera Boškovića D-3 Runjaninova B-4 Šalata D-1 Savska cesta A-4 Schlosserove stube D-2 Širolina E-3 Skalinska C-1 Smičiklasova D-2 Splavnica C-2 Stančićeva E-3 Starčevićev trg C-4 Streljačka B-1 Strojarska E-4 Strossmayerov trg C-3 Strossmayerovo šet. B-2 Svačićev trg C-3 Švearova E-3 Brezovačkoga B-1 Tkalčićeva C-1 Tomašićeva E-2

Tomićeva B-2 Tratinska A-4 Trg Ante Starčevića C-4 Trg bana Josipa Jelačića C-2 Trg Biskupa J. Langa D-1 Trg braće Hrv. Zmaja C-1 Trg Franklina Roosvelta B-3 Trg žrtava fašizma D-3 Trg kralja P. Krešimira IV E-3 Trg kralja Tomislava C-3 Trg Republike Hrvatske B-3 Trg N. Šubića Zrinjskog C-3 Trg Petra Preradovića C-2 Trg Petra Petretića E-1 Trg Svetog Marka C-1 Trnjanska cesta D-4 Trpimirova D-4 Tuškanac B-1 Tvrtkova E-3 Unska B-4 Varšavska B-2 Vinkovićeva C-1 Visoka B-1 Vitezovićeva C-1 Vladimira Nazora A-1 Vlaška D-2 Voćarska cesta E-1 Voćarsko naselje E-1 Vodnikova B-4 Vojnovićeva E-2 Vončininova D-1 Vramčeva D-1 Vranicanijeva B-1 Vukotinovićeva B-3 Weberova C-1 Zamenhoffova A-1

www.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZagrebInYourPocket

Winter / Spring 2022

49

Karlovac City Museum

Dubovac Castle

Cultural and natural heritage within the Renaissance star-shaped fort

Witness of the centuries overlooking three modern countries and two historical empires

Vjekoslav Karas Gallery

Museum of the Homeland War Karlovac –Turanj

Contemporary art in Brutalist architecture

Contemporary history at the town gates

Karlovac City Museums

www.mgk.hr info@mgk.hr f: muzejigradakarlovca i: muzejigradakarlovca