FOOD AND DRINK
A FAVOURITE HAUNT REVISITED
Jo Morris dines at Monteiths on the Royal Mile and remembers why she loved it in the first place
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hen Monteiths Kitchen and Cocktail Bar opened on the Royal Mile in the noughties, it brought a different vibe to the city’s most famous tourist street. It was ‘doing Scotland’ differently, bringing local produce and masterful mixology, and attracting the locals who had previously written off the area as a place for drinks and dinner. And, in case it’s not still on your radar, let me tell you it should be. Monteiths is rather lovely. Snuck down a close, a twinkly light canopy beckons you in. Downstairs, you’re welcomed into a modern yet intimate and cosy space, all comfy leather seating, dark and luxurious paint colours and thoughtful mood lighting. Excited to be back in its fold and keen to find out if it still delivered in the food stakes, we ordered cocktails and bar bites. I can honestly say, biting into the perfect haggis bonbons and fried goats’ cheese, a deep sense of happiness came over me. I remembered the joy of dining out and took a long, contented sip of my Orchard Bramble cocktail (new favourite drink: Gin, blackcurrant liqueur, apple and elderflower.) Mains were simply brilliant. I’m usually a straight up steak girl but the halibut with leeks, peas and bacon, £28, jumped out at me. It came with a side of mash and was probably the best I’ve ever eaten- perfectly cooked, moist and meaty yet light and exquisitely seasoned. My partner had the venison loin, £28, again with a potato side which was also superb. The wine list was decent and
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well-priced with good wines by the glass, which is important if you and your partner are looking at different colours. We were about to call it a night until we saw a neighbouring table’s treacle tart. Food FOMO does exist which is why, five minutes later, we were sharing our own portion of the perfectly sweet and moreish dessert. We thoroughly enjoyed our evening. Great service, friendly, professional, and very efficient staff, excellent food, and a buzzy atmosphere. Monteiths felt like a familiar hug from an old friend. I’ve already recommended it to two people, both of whom said they haven’t been for ages. I suspect this is going to change. Monteiths is well worth rediscovering.
Monteiths Kitchen and Cocktail Bar, 61 High St, EH1 1SR Tel: 0131 557 0330, www.monteithsrestaurant.co.uk
