The Jeweller Magazine Dec 2010 by Zest Europe

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Jeweller November 2010

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The Voice of The Industry

Putting the case for fashion jewellery Loughborough Conference reviewed Reporting on serious crime bastian inverun profiled The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association

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Distributor and Service centre for Junghans in the UK and Eire Telephone: 01698 283388 Fax: 01698 285677 Email: jon.vincent@btconnect.com

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Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

N O V

1 0

Profile: bastian inverun

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

NAG News

Member of the Month

BJA News

Jeweller Picks

Insurance Matters

Opinion: John Henn

Education & Training

Ethical Jeweller

Antique Jeweller

Notebook

Letters to the Editor

IRV Review

Appointments

Winsor Bishop – beating the recession through expansion

Display Cabinet

Working together to beat crime

The Last Word

The contemporary silver jewellery brand that’s getting noticed by traditional jewellers

Fashion jewellery I

After a Fashion

Belinda Morris shows that fashion and fine jewellery can sit together I

Back to Basics

A look at key BJA fashion components and service providers I

Natural Inspiration

Pieces of jewellery from design-led BJA members which have been crafted from unorthodox materials

Watch this space

56 The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

Using all available resources was one of the key messages highlighted at a recent, high profile crime seminar.

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG

In conjunction with Ti Sento Milano Judith Wade – UK Sales Manager Tel: 07834 490060 Web: www.tisento-milano.com

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500

Tel: 020 7613 4445

ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007

Cover Image

CUBE Publishing

bmorris@colony.co.uk

Publisher: Neil Oakford neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Mary Brittain, John Henn,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Greg Valerio, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

The NAG’s CEO looks at gloomy fiscal forecast for the next six months, the question of skills and one particularly classy retail success story.

n the October issue of The Jeweller I reported on the confidence survey the NAG had conducted in September. My subsequent meeting at the Bank of England confirmed that many other sectors, while experiencing reasonable sales growth at the moment, share our members’ concerns about the next six months. Many businesses are having difficulties with short term loans and overdrafts, and although the representative of a retail bank assured me that his loan book was up nearly 11 per cent on last year, applications are down by about 20 per cent, fuelled by the belief that banks aren’t lending. As a result some businesses are retaining and using their own cash rather than rely on short term borrowing, and the perception, backed up by the card issuers, is that business credit cards are being used as an alternative to loans and overdrafts and to ease cash flow. An understandable but expensive option! Difficulties also seem to lay ahead for the property sector, where re-negotiation of loans due next year on commercial properties could prove troublesome. Meanwhile, there is a mixed picture on the domestic front. While the volume of conveyancing is down by more than 60 per cent, the abolition of HIPS has brought welcome clarity to the

4 The Jeweller November 2010

sector. More troubling, both for the sector and the economy as a whole, are the areas like the North East, where repossession is rife. For many, skills shortages are top of the agenda. At one end of the scale, a dearth of managers was troubling the operators of a significant multi-site fast food outlet business, who were solving their problem by bringing staff in from overseas. At the other end, business failures and down-scaling have ensured that there is a ready supply of better qualified book-keepers available, but their basic skills are still at issue. Not surprisingly, on the recruitment front, there is spare capacity in the construction and allied trades, but shortages in skilled areas

and private sector. A sticking plaster for an unsightly wound! From the Bank’s perspective, growth and inflation are the two key indicators over the coming months, with the former expected at around 2.5 per cent for the next two years, and the latter up to 3 per cent until the end of 2011. The factors affecting inflation include rising fuel prices, the return of VAT to 17.5 per cent, which is only now feeding into the figures, and the depreciation of Sterling. Add to that January’s VAT uplift to 20 per cent and the stage could be set for the wages damn to burst after a period of restraint that has held back pent up demand.

Getting Smart with Skills s significant training providers, NAG is interested in skills and as such we were invited recently to an employers’ conference by Skillsmart, the sector skills body for retail. The subject of skills is a thorny one, and sometimes employers confuse shortage of skills with a shortage of people with skills willing to work for the wages they are prepared to offer. What do I mean? For instance, I was surprised to hear, as mentioned above, that it was necessary to import managers for fast food outlets! If there is one thing Britain is good at, it is

Surely the country is bursting with people with retail skills anxious to progress to management? Or in this case is the issue not lack of skills and ambition, but lack of desire to work unsocial hours for relatively low wages? like teaching and the professions. All agreed that next year would see increased demand for interim managers and consultants, as companies try to address the damage done by badly executed cuts in both the public

retailing. Surely the country is bursting with people with retail skills anxious to progress to management? Or in this case is the issue not lack of skills and ambition, but lack of desire to work unsocial hours for relatively

Comment | low wages? For some the answer is to bridge the gap using labour with lower expectations, but can that be the long term solution? It’s a debate that the big retailers are familiar with and are confronting. Having, analysed the problem, identified genuine skills shortages and balanced the conditions versus reward equation, they are making serious inroads into workforce development. As Charlie Mayfield, chairman of the John Lewis Partnership, pointed out during his keynote address, skills are crucial to self esteem, and as a country we have to develop areas of the economy other than just the service and financial services sectors. Suggesting a return to what he termed ‘aesthetic’ abilities, he also promoted the case for skills and called on the retail audience to articulate their skills needs. The cost of recruitment to the retail sector is colossal and it has long been recognised that retention of skilled workers is hugely valuable. Demand for ‘fast talent’, which has to be bought in, has been very expensive in recruitment terms and bad for UK skills. Norman Pickavance, HR director of Morrison’s, was at pains to point out the work they are doing in developing staff from within their organisation through the apprenticeship route. Equally important was the effect that the retail sector can have on redressing the impact and effects of social exclusion; taking young people with limited opportunities and imprinting the culture of business as early as possible. Similar thoughts and experiences were elucidated by Sarah Dickens, the retail people director for ASDA, who reminded us that youth unemployment is twice the national average. Her experience was that young people are frustrated that they have no relevant qualifications, experience, or references; have never been shown how to complete an application form; and complain they never get any feedback when they do! Thus this puts them in the ‘Catch 22’ situation of ‘no experience, no job, no job, no experience’. Asda’s solution is to address these issues through work experience, seasonal work, and retail apprenticeships. In his summing up of the proceedings Ian Cheshire, the group chief executive of Kingfisher plc, urged us all to “collectively set the agenda for skills, before others do”, and not to let the recession deflect the skills issue.

CONTACTS PROMOTE SUCCESS.

A Class Act couple of weeks before our highly successful Council meeting held at Fortnum & Mason, I was fortunate enough to have a sneak preview of the venue and hear managing director, Beverley Aspinal, tell an invited audience of luxury retailers how she had overseen the rejuvenation of the historic British brand. Noting that sales are up 40 per cent since the refurbishment two years ago, she delineated the five key drivers of their success as quality and rarity of product; peerless service; exclusivity, expressed through uniqueness of product; authenticity achieved through genuine history and heritage; and ethics, corporate social responsibility and doing the right thing for the long term. Not a bad formula, and one with which many of our most successful members would empathise!

MUNICH, 25 – 28 FEBRUARY 2011 Contact: Pattern (Trade Fairs) Ltd. Tel.: 0203 375 8230 info@pattern.co.uk www.inhorgenta.com For trade visitors only

38th International trade fair for jewellery, watches, design, gemstones and technology

The Voice of the Industry 5

Your affair starts here...

www.elodiecollections.com Tel 01271 312025 Email sales@elodiecollections.com

Comment | This month: “There really are designers

Editor’s

Letter

making necklaces out of concrete, like a string of children’s building bricks threaded together on wire.”

diting The Jeweller is nothing like being an actual jewellery retailer, I know. I am very aware

that my position in this industry is a fringe one. But as it my job to observe and report

on its various comings and goings, practices and endeavours, concerns and interests, I can't help – obviously – but feel deeply involved. Attending the recent Serious Robbery and Crime Symposium was an interesting ‘for instance’. I’ve spoken to a number of jewellers about raids and robberies over the years; I’ve re-told stories of how one deterrent or another has come up trumps at the crucial moment. But I’ve never known, even remotely, what it really feels like to be caught up in such a drama. Being in a small room when a fogging device is activated – albeit for demo purposes for delegates

Page 30

– is an unnerving experience to say the least. If I were under 20 I believe ‘awesome’ might be the word. ‘Chilling’ would be my description of the audio evidence of a raid on a Spar shop. Listening

“We take our creative departure from the world

to several minutes of a terrified and panic-struck staff member trying to follow the expletive

of fashion, more than

and threat-laden orders of the armed intruder gave a shocking inkling of what it must be

from the world of precious

like to be in that dreadful situation. I would defy any retailer to hear that recording and not re-visit or question his own security.

metals and stones…”

On a much lighter note, researching a feature on the growing acceptance of ‘fashion’ jewellery – whether branded silver ranges, crystal-encrusted statement necklaces or the more experimental designer pieces in mixed materials – has made me wish, not for the first time, that I was on your side of the fence. Predicting where the shifts in consumer spending will take us and keeping up with that demand is a challenging business – but personally I find delving into the treasure chest of any form of jewellery so inspirational. I love my job!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 32

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Goldsmiths’ Fair success

he 2010 Goldsmiths’ Fair which took place last month, was a great success according to the organisers and exhibitors alike. Over the two weeks 161 jewellers and silversmiths from around the UK presented their collections to an international as well as home audience. Many overseas visitors had travelled to London specifically for the event. Support from past-patrons and returning visitors remains high – boosted by a growing numbers of new visitors. “The Fair goes from strength to strength!” says Paul Dyson the Fair’s director of promotion. “Buying and commissioning was extremely buoyant and proved that the interest in and appreciation of innovative, design-led, high-quality, hand-crafted jewellery and silver is not only strong but on the increase. In general we are also finding that visitors to the Fair are discerning, wellinformed and keen to learn more about the skills and techniques used by the craftsmen which in the current economic climate is extremely positive,” he added. Importantly, a large number of purchases took place at the Fair, with many exhibitors achieving record sales both in terms of volume and takings. Among these was Fair veteran Martyn Pugh who has exhibited at every Fair since it started. He said: “I had my best Fair ever! In my opinion there is a definite increase in the awareness and appreciation of craftsmanship and artistry. People are now making focused decisions to buy pieces of lasting value and significance.” Jeweller Jane Adam, who exhibited in Week Two, also set a new total for sales at

Buyers and sellers at the Fair with Jonathon Boyd, winner of the Best New Design Award (inset)

any show she has done to date. A leading figure in British contemporary crafts, Adam has established an international reputation for her jewellery in dyed aluminium but has more recently begun to work in gold and silver, often incorporating a variety of gemstones. “I feel I have now come of age at Goldsmiths’ Fair!” says Adam. In terms of trends, rose gold made a noticeable appearance on many jewellers’ stands and proved popular with buyers. Mikala Djorup says: “It has been rather out of favour so hasn’t been seen around for a few years but now jewellers are starting to use it again, this time in a very contemporary way and people like the results.” David McCaul agrees: “It has a warmer, softer hue than yellow gold and hence is very forgiving and suits many skin tones which adds to its

appeal.” In general gold jewellery – of all carats and in all shades – was more than holding its own despite its price being at an all-time high. The winner of the Best New Design Award in Week One was jeweller Jonathan Boyd, selected by design-authority Peter Ting. Using several forms of new technology as well as traditional hand crafting techniques, Boyd’s jewellery makes words and text come alive. Brooches, rings, and other pieces of jewellery are made up of tiny pieces of type-face from oxidised silver combined either randomly or in an order to spell out a word or message. Goldsmiths’ Fair 2011, at Goldsmiths’ Hall, will be held from Monday 26th September to Sunday 9th October. Details: www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

New look Hallmarking Dealers Notice a ‘must’ from January 1st nder the Hallmarking Act 1973, every person ‘dealing’ in precious metal is legally required to display a statutory Dealers Notice, which was redesigned last year to include the hallmark for Palladium. The revised Hallmarking Dealers Notice has been available to traders since the start of 2010 and many UK companies in the jewellery and precious metals industries have already replaced and updated their legal notices.

8 The Jeweller November 2010

It will be compulsory from 1st January 2011 to display the updated Dealers Notice which has a contemporary layout and features strongly an image of a UK hallmark including the three compulsory symbols. Jewellery retailers need to make sure that they don’t get caught out. They will be contravening the law if they fail to display an up-to-date and legally recognised Dealers Notice. Trading Standards Officers are also aware of the need for traders to display

the revised version of the Dealers Notice. 150,000 palladium pieces have been hallmarked since July 2009 and it is important that consumers can identify this ‘new’ precious metal.. Updated Hallmarking Dealers Notices should be obtained before 1st January 2011 and are available from the four UK assay offices now. Telephone 0871 871 6020 or visit: www.theassayoffice.co.uk to learn more

Industry News |

Stick with Kimberley says WDC president ddressing the 2010 Plenery Meeting of the Kimberley Process in Jerusalem last month, Eli Izhakoff, president of the World Diamond Council (WDC), said that inclusiveness is the key to KP’s success. It works, he insisted, because all participants remain convinced that it is better to remain engaged, rather than to opt out. “If we would ever lose the element of inclusiveness, KP will be rendered ineffective and ultimately worthless,” he said. “It was an appreciation of the necessity of inclusiveness that kept all parties at the table at the WDC Annual Meeting in St. Petersburg in July. All of us realised that the consequences of Zimbabwe disengaging from KP would be devastating, both for the people of Zimbabwe and for the diamond and jewellery industries. Compromise and agreement were the only acceptable outcomes. Had they not been achieved, the very foundations of our business and the economies of a number of African states would have been shaken to the core,” he said. “There are those who have said that the situation in the Marange region of Zimbabwe was indicative of the inability of KP to operate within the geo-political environment that exists in 2010,” he continued. “To them I would point out that by choosing to remain engaged in KP, Zimbabwe never released non-certified goods onto the market. We thus were able to avoid a situation in which the integrity of the pipeline would have been threatened. Instead, Zimbabwe agreed to two carefully monitored shipments, both of which required a green light from the KP review team. “I believe this is evidence that the KP does have teeth. It was not always pretty, but throughout 2010 KP continued to prove its effectiveness. But let us not kid ourselves. Had we alienated Zimbabwe, the outcome would have been considerably different.”

Argento opens first London store ontinuing its recent expansion, Belfast-based jewellery store Argento is opening its first London outlet this month – in the Brunswick Centre, Bloomsbury. As well as stocking brands such as Pandora, Thomas Sabo, Pilgrim and Jackie Brazil, the shop will also carry Argento’s own collections: Karma, Abeeba and the men’s range Guise. Argento was founded 12 years ago by chief executive Peter Boyle and there are currently 36 further Argento shops spread across Northern Ireland, the Republic of Ireland, Scotland and England. The London store is Argento’s eighth in England with a further Pandora store to open shortly in Nottingham.

S N I P P E T S Diamonds by Appointment In last month’s Talking Diamonds feature, that included a profile of Sharman D Neill, an image of rings by its exclusive Diamonds by Appointment brand, was incorrectly placed on the page. We apologise for any confusion this error caused. The Iona and Dulcina shown here are part of the exclusive Memoire collection, which won the Platinum Bridal Collection 2010. WFDB Presidents Meeting date The 2011 Presidents’ meeting of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) will take place from 11th to 14th April at the Jumeirah Meydan Hotel in Dubai (adjacent to the Meydan Race Course). The meeting will be co-hosted by the Dubai MultiCommoditities Centre and the Dubai Diamond Exchange. “As Dubai is a fast growing diamond trading center and distribution hub, holding a WFDB event at the home of the Dubai Diamond Exchange has been long coming,” said Avi Paz of WFDB. Kleshna’s poppy range grows Since its initial commission in 2008, Jewellery designer Kleshna’s poppy brooch design has been joined by three new collectables, created to raise funds for the Royal British Legion. This year’s campaign is targeted to reach in excess of £10,000, thanks to a friendship bracelet with crystal and enamel poppy, a mini poppy tie pin and this Swarovski crystal and pewter brooch, which sells for £49.99.

Nicholas Wylde opens in Bristol ath jewellery retailer Nicholas Wylde Goldsmiths has opened a second branch – in Clifton Village, Bristol. “Having been asked for many years by clients to open up in Bristol, I’m very happy to be able to bring my style and service to them and looking forward to bringing the ‘Wylde’ experience to the new clients as well,” says Wylde. The shop, at Number Six, The Mall, was designed by Watt shop fitters of Barnstaple, together with Wylde himself. The launch party for the new store last month was attended by 330 guests and hosted by Olympic gold medalist Amy Williams MBE, with £700 raised for charity.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Jewellery business is a Start Up Star otherham business woman, Joanne Coulson, who started Spangles UK in June 2008, has been named one of the UK’s best new businesses in this year’s HSBC Start-Up Stars Awards. Coulson was presented with her award at a gala dinner at London’s Dorchester Hotel last month. A buying manager for a Shopping at Work company, selling books and gifts into the workplace through a network of agents, Coulson had seen how well the concept worked but was interested in exploring different product lines. Spangles UK now has 45 Shopping at Work agents and has explored a number of other routes to market. The wholesale arm of the business has grown to supply a range of independent gift shops, fashion boutiques and small multiples, and, in 2009, expanded into the Republic of Ireland. Over the next 12 months, she plans to focus on expanding her wholesale business.

Record price expected for rare diamond ntroducing Lot 550, an exceptionally rare fancy intense pink diamond, weighing 24.78 carats, that will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Geneva this month and is expected to fetch around £24 million (the pre-sale estimate is $27-38 million). The stone comes to market from a private collection and has not appeared on the open market since it was purchased about 60 years ago by US jeweller to the stars Harry Winston. Commenting on the forthcoming sale, David Bennett, chairman of the international jewellery department at Sotheby’s, said: “This stone is one of the most desirable diamonds I have ever seen. What makes it so immensely rare is the combination of its exceptional colour and purity with the classic emerald-cut – a style of cutting normally associated with white diamonds and one that is so highly sought-after when found in rare colours such as pink and blue. The stone’s character is further enhanced by the gently rounded corners which impart a unique softness and charm to this truly outstanding gemstone.”

Olympic gold for Birmingham graduate irmingham City University BA and MA graduate Jonathan Olliffe (25) has struck gold by winning a national competition to design a commemorative coin celebrating the 2012 Olympics. He designed two out of the 29 winning designs. The challenge – set by the Royal Mint – was to design new 50 pence coins to commemorate the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Ollliffe’s winning designs – for gymnastics and aquatics – were picked from nearly 30,000 entries. The Royal Mint has announced that that 87 million of the 29 special 50p coins will come into circulation over 2010 and 2011.

Prize-winning student joins Domino team omino has announced the appointment of Siobhan Maher, a prize-winning student from Birmingham City University (BCU), as the latest recruit to its now six-strong New Product Development and Design department. Maher, who describes herself as “absolutely passionate about jewellery design and the jewellery Siobahn Maher, right, industry” studied for an HND in Jewellery and Silversmithing at pictured with fellow Domino BCU having already completed an honours degree in English at designers Kelly Hart and Naomi Newton-Sherlock The University of Birmingham. During the course of her studies she picked up a number of awards including three prestigious Goldsmith’s Craftsmanship and Design Awards and first prize in a student competition organised by Domino’s parent company, Weston Beamor. Although her role at Domino is her first full-time job in the jewellery industry, Maher was previously a creative intern at Links of London where she worked independently within its design department to create a range of corporate jewellery and a capsule collection for retail based around the company’s monogram.

10 The Jeweller November 2010

V&A competition winner illy Ousantzopoulou who graduated from a jewellery design course at Kensington and Chelsea College took the top award in a prestigious national competition set by the V&A Museum. She was crowned the winner in the Jewellery and Metalwork Category of the V&A ‘Inspired By’ Competition. The contest aims to profile the talents of people on part-time art and design courses and attracts hundreds of entries from across the country each year. Entrants were required to draw their inspiration from collections featured in V&A galleries. Lilly’s winning entry was a silver and gold plated necklace.

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www.thmarch.co.uk MIS/7MV1/27.10.10

| Industry News

CBI publishes letter to Osborne and Cable he CBI has published a letter it has written to George Osborne, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Vince Cable, Secretary of State for Business, Innovation and Skills ahead of the publication of the Government’s growth white paper. In it the business group sets out policy measures in four areas designed to promote growth, and specifically do so in a relatively short timeframe, because of the economic environment and the need for private-sector growth. Among the four policy areas highlighted as needing action, the letter states that “the Government should extend the Enterprise Finance Guarantee, making sure it fits the needs of IP-intensive businesses where banks find it hard to extend loans in the absence of physical collateral. There should also be encouragement of more SME financing options, especially non-bank and equity financing”.

London DEF event sells out he first planned international fundraising benefit event for The Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) has received an overwhelming response – resulting in the organisers having to move the 8th November gala to a larger venue. The DEF London Diamonds in the Sky, will see diamond trade luminaries coming together with supporters and beneficiaries from both the public and private sectors. The charity dinner, co-hosted by Varda Shine, CEO of Diamond Trading Company, will now be held in London’s Banqueting House. Founded and based in the United States since 2007, the non-profit Diamond Empowerment Fund’s mission is to raise monies to go towards supporting education initiatives that will change the lives of African communities based around diamond mines. Sixty per cent of the world’s diamonds come from Sub-Saharan Africa and DEF’s goal is to help Africa’s youth have greater educational opportunities that lead to personal and economic empowerment.

S N I P P E T S A watch with a difference from Fortis Some watches are sober and quietly classic, others are ultra sporty, mean and macho… and then there’s this new timepiece by Fortis. The Limited Art Edition Andora – designed by the artist Andora – not only features bold colours on the bezel and cartoon-like images on the dial, but engravings on the bracelet and case back. It also tells the time. A diamond for Christmas Looking for a Christmas gift for someone who works with diamonds? How about this T-shirt by Wear Chemistry featuring a hand-drawn Carbon Diamond symbol? In black or vintage red, it’s made from a mix of bamboo and organic cotton (so very environmentally friendly) and costs £25. It is in small, medium and large women’s sizes and can be gift-wrapped. www.wearchemistry.com

Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair grows ollowing the success of the first Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair in February 2010 held at the 105-year-old Antwerp Diamond Bourse this year, the Diamond Club of Antwerp is also making its trading hall available for exhibitors at the second edition of the show next year. Thanks to the participation of Antwerp’s second-largest bourse, there will be 50 per cent more exhibitors at the 2011 event, being held from 30th January to 1st February. More than 60 leading Antwerp diamond firms will exhibit in the two adjacent, elegant and spacious trading halls. The inaugural show, with the support of the Antwerp World Diamond Centre, saw scores of diamond buyers from high-end, European jewellery companies attending the by-invitation only event, which was the first of its kind anywhere in the world. Antwerp is the world’s leading diamond trading centre, servicing buyers and sellers from all over the world. More than 50 per cent of the world’s polished diamonds are traded in the city. For details contact: info@antwerpdiamondfair.com

12 The Jeweller November 2010

New sales manager appointed for Molly Brown Girl’s jewellery brand Molly Brown has hired Jenny Alderton to head the Southern sales territory. Prior to joining Molly Brown, Alderton spent 18 months as visual merchandising and marketing coordinator at Fraser Hart. Previously, she was with Links of London for five years as a Southern territory account manager, where she also supported the visual needs of the USA wholesale and the overseas franchise business. Alderton will work alongside Lyndsay Bradley who is responsible for Northern Sales having joined Molly Brown earlier this year from Abbeycrest.

| NAG News

Seventh Executive Development Forum forms he Executive Development Forum (EDF) is now in its sixth successful year. The effectiveness of this bespoke business development meeting for retail jewellers is evidenced by the success of its members, who now number 35, with a collective turnover of £30 million per annum. The National Association of Goldsmith’s EDF was originally set up in 2005 to encourage and enable even higher levels of retail and business skills into NAG members’ companies. Groups of six to twelve people

meet up to six times a year with external consultant Mike McGraw, of Development Initiatives Limited, to discuss issues and topics relevant to running a retail jewellery business. Implementing sound processes and sharing best practice, blueprints for stock control, profit margin benchmarking, measurement of market share, staff salaries and bonus and commission schemes are some of the many subjects covered. EDF member Shane Green of Green + Benz agrees the benefits to business are clear.

“EDF helps us benchmark our business and the interaction we get with other members helps us expand our view from shopkeeper to businessman”. “EDF members are jewellers who are intent on fulfilling the true potential of their businesses, building on their existing professionalism to manage their companies in the most profitable and fulfilling way,” explains McGraw. “The EDF enables, encourages and supports members to achieve this.” The Executive Development Forum can help you plan and shape the long term direction of your business. The meetings are fully confidential and realistic in time and cost, at a time and venue to suit the participants. Group seven is now being formed with a first meeting planned for early in 2011. Joining the EDF is highly recommended. Contact Amanda White on 020 7613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

Wartski holds Fabergé exhibition

Pawnbrokers’ Conference

artski in Grafton Street, London is to stage ‘The Last Flowering of Court Art’ – a loan exhibition of a private collection of Fabergé owned by a London-based Russian couple. They began collecting just after the fall of the Soviet Union and among the many ‘New Russians’ to collect Fabergé, they were the very first. Possessing the highest levels of discernment and guided by an uncompromising determination to acquire only the best of Fabergé’s work, they have succeeded in assembling an important collection of the Imperial goldsmith’s work. The couple’s passion for Fabergé has produced a collection covering the spectrum of Fabergé’s work and includes some of the firm’s most prized pieces. The exhibition is being held to benefit the Samaritans and all funds raised will go directly to the charity. The NAG is delighted to announce that FIRV Shirley Mitchell has been able to arrange a private viewing for Friday 3rd December starting at 10.15am. Places are restricted so please contact Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615 or email: irv@jewellers-online.org Please note that on this occasion the private viewing will cost participants £15. The viewing will include a guided tour and the counters/display cases will be opened for participants to view the pieces. The exhibition will run from 23rd November to 3rd December 2010, and the normal entry price, including catalogue is £8. For further details contact Wartski on 020 7409 7448 or visit: wartski@wartski.com

he National Pawnbrokers Association 79th AGM, Conference and Awards Dinner took place on Friday 8th October 2010 at the Lancaster London Hotel. Representatives from the NAG attended the event for pawnbrokers from around the UK and overseas. Des Milligan, chief executive of the NPA, transacted the formal business of the Association prior to seminars and debates on issues of relevance to the pawnbroking industry. There was a strong line-up of speakers whose subjects for discussion included energy efficiency, consumer credit directive, the causes and cures of financial exclusion, effective debt collecting and the ins and outs of gold and silver prices today. Members were able to catch up with fellow colleagues and customers during their lunch, before either celebrating or consoling the winners and losers from the awards dinner in the evening.

14 The Jeweller November 2010

NAG News |

NAG Council Meeting he final Council Meeting for the year 2010 was held on Tuesday 12th October at the renowned Piccadilly store Fortnum & Mason, and was, once again, a great success. The meeting was attended by around 55 guests, made up of NAG Board and Council Members and many familiar faces from the jewellery industry. The theme of the day; ‘Security on the Approach to Christmas’ was hugely welcomed by the guests and three speakers were invited to explore various security issues. The presentations given proved to be beneficial to the UK jewellery retailers that were present at the meeting, as they stimulated interesting discussions and highlighted various security issues to be considered. Ian Kirke, Michael Hoare and Jim Mathieson Ian Kirke of Training for Success introduced the new online intelligence portal, where short video clips are available to be viewed showing ex-offenders demonstrating ways in which money is earned by illegal methods. Additional clips were also shown, presented by criminals who explained how retailers can avoid such occurrences. Mark Beale of the Metropolitan Police Flying Squad reviewed the procedures to be applied before and after a robbery and stressed the importance of carrying out risk assessments in the working environment. Finally, James Mathieson of Etelligencia explained where stolen goods end up and how best to avoid loss prevention. All three presentations were certainly an eye-opener for the audience and gave all something to consider in the coming weeks leading up to Christmas. Following the talks, a delicious two-course luncheon was served in the St James Restaurant after which NAG chairman Nicholas Major thanked all for attending before the guests departed. In conclusion, the Council Meeting was an excellent day and, as always at NAG meetings, it is gratifying to see representatives from right across the jewellery industry in attendance. For those who were unable to be there, the next Council Meeting is on the 10th March 2011 and we hope to see you then.

Hoard of US gold coins found here were more than a few Chinese whispers around the NAG HQ and Hatton Garden last month when the word on the street was that a hoard of US gold coins was found close by in an East London garden. The rumours turned out to be true, when it was confirmed that the stash of 80 coins was found by two local residents who, while gardening, stumbled across the ‘Double Eagle’ $20 pieces. Dating between 1854 and 1913 the coins are estimated to be worth an undisclosed six-figure sum. While buried Roman coins are regularly found, it remains a mystery as to why the American hoard was hidden. An inquest at St Pancras Coroner’s Court announced the find and set a deadline of 8th February 2011 for the coins’ owner to come forward. Details of how and where they were found are being kept secret to prevent false claims. If nobody claims the coins, which are now on display at the British Museum in central London, they could be declared as treasure and become the property of the Crown. Dr Roger Bland, head of portable antiquities and treasure at the museum, said: “It’s a unique discovery, nothing like this has been found before. There is a fascinating story behind it, but we don't understand what it is. It’s a mystery who put them in the ground, how they got hold of them and why they never came back to collect them.”

Kevin Coleman passes away evin Coleman, a former NAG chairman, died peacefully at his home on the 4th October 2010. Coleman, who chaired the NAG from 1994 – 1996, joined the NAG Council in 1983, was appointed to the Executive Committee in 1985 and then took on the chairmanship of the Business Services Committee in 1989 before becoming Chairman in the NAG’s centenary year. As the proprietor of Baker Brothers, with shops in Bedford and Letchworth, Kevin was successful in his chosen career as a jeweller and was respected for influencing many aspects of the jewellery trade. He also found time to write regular opinion columns in The Jeweller. Prior to running his own business, he worked for Paragon Jewellers, Collingwoods and Timex. We extend our condolences to his family. A full obituary will appear in the December issue of The Jeweller.

New Member Applications To ensure that NAG members are aware of new membership applications within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Harshita Deolia on 020 7613 4445 or email: harshita@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Affiliate Applications PSH Fine Jewellery (Patrick Hill) Cheltenham

Allied Applications The PMC Studio Ltd, (Helen O’Neill) Chesham

Alumni Applications Elizabeth Jane Bratek, Romford

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

Member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Harshita Deolia talks to Jeremy Rossiter of Rossiter and Sons, a business which was founded in 1832 and has remained in the Rossiter family since. With locations in Weston-super-Mare, Clevedon, Barnstaple and Bridgwater, the family business offers a wide range of products and services, including gold and silver jewellery, modern and antique silverware, clocks, barometers and watches. A successful family business lasting for 178 years is quite an achievement… tell me something about Rossiter & Sons. We are a traditional family business with my brother Tim and I being the sixth generation of Rossiters to own it. In 1832 we began as watchmakers, silversmiths and opticians, as many other jewellers did at that time. We still occupy exactly the same site as when the shop first opened, so we’ve survived the Blitz and the floods etc. We stock jewellery primarily – engagement rings, wedding and eternity rings, silver jewellery and also antique silver and watches. We have a few collectable items that have the Exeter Assay Office hallmark on them too.

Do you think being a traditional jewellery shop is the main strength of the business? I think our unique selling point is that people can walk in to the shop and ask to see “Mr Rossiter”, a working member of the family, and in this case there are three Mr Rossiters! Very few businesses on the high street have members of the family working in the shop today so I think people like the personal touch. We also try to do charitable things and this is something that goes back through the generations. We often get involved with the local area one way

16 The Jeweller November 2010

or another. For our 175th anniversary, we commissioned a piece of silver for the town and it’s currently in the Mayor’s parlour. What are the most unusual items you stock? Barometers are a somewhat diminished market, though we do still have a few quality ones. It really is a niche market though. We stock some nice antique jewellery; we find people like the old cut diamonds because they are original and haven’t had any modern treatments. These sorts of pieces give the window an interesting and different look. We also try and find unusual items for customers. Your main store in Weston-super-Mare is in quite a tourist destination. How does this affect the business – does it influence what sort of stock you pick for the shop? It certainly does affect the stock we choose. Weston-super-Mare is more of a mature person’s retirement destination so we find rubies are quite a popular choice for jewellery – as there are plenty of ruby wedding anniversaries. We play to that strength, but on the other hand with Bristol and Bath so close by, we might sometimes struggle to get the younger people away from the big shopping malls. We are very lucky to have loyal families as customers, we need to try and keep catering for them as well as search for new customers. The economy of Weston-super-Mare has been affected in quite a big way by the burning down of the Grand Pier two years ago. It’s been difficult as the usual holiday makers haven’t been coming. The pier re-opened on 23rd October, after millions of pounds spent rebuilding it, so we’re optimistic that the town will bounce back.

You’ve been involved with the NAG for quite some time now... I’m a Council member and on the Membership Committee, and our business has been a member for many years. To discuss ideas with like-minded individuals is very helpful and I would encourage others to consider the benefits of joining. Do you think your daughter will follow in the Rossiter family footsteps? She’s nine years old and she likes jewellery so that’s a start! She collects crystals at the moment. She’s been to all the shops, and I would certainly encourage her if she wanted to come in, but there’s no undue pressure. I was lucky to have an apprenticeship and we have all done an element of training outside the business, so that’s also something to consider if she wanted to follow this route. Could you share a story with our readers about memorable customers… There’s a local couple who have been customers for some time and they always hide their jewellery around their house when they go on holiday. In case of a break-in, the lady decided that the last place thieves may think to look would be the fireplace, so she hid her jewellery under the logs, coal and newspaper. When they returned from holiday, it was a bit nippy in the house so her husband decided he’d light a fire… obviously forgetting about the jewellery that was hidden there! We were able to clean up and restore most of the pieces, but sadly the cameos and pearls were too damaged. If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month please email Harshita@jewellers-online.org.

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| BJA News

Recent survey highlights varied needs of BJA members embership of the British Jewellers’ Association has always been a broad church but, as a recent comprehensive survey of some 200 of our member compaMike Hughes, nies shows, perhaps chairman of the BJA never quite as diverse as it is today. The results of a detailed telephone survey, undertaken for the BJA in October by the specialist research company B2B Contact Marketing, clearly demonstrates not only the breadth of the membership but also how companies operating at different levels of the supply chain have different wants and needs in terms of what they require from their trade association. We are very

grateful to all of you who participated. Thank you for your time and for the very useful feedback you have provided. While the results are clearly not rocket science, the detailed responses we have received from the different sectors have been extremely illuminating and will undoubtedly help our new chief executive Simon Rainer and his team to focus on providing the additional services you have identified as being useful to you. They will also enable us to make sure that those services we already have in place are more clearly focused and tailored to serve the different segments of the industry. A full report on the survey is still in the process of being compiled and we will be issuing further details of our findings in the next issue of The Jeweller. Suffice to say at

this stage that we are already looking at two areas of particular concern – health and safety and security – and are in negotiations with a number of potential suppliers including the employment law and health and safety experts Peninsula and the secure delivery business Malca Amit, to provide some new and pertinent services. As this issue of The Jeweller hits your desk we will be right in the midst of what is traditionally the Christmas rush. I hope, despite the cuts and the prophesies of the financial doom-mongers, that you will have a prosperous festive season.

BJA warns ‘seller beware’ of CNP sales he BJA is warning its members to be extremely careful during the forthcoming Christmas period when making ‘Cardholder Not Present’ (CNP) transactions through their Streamline card processing system. “The BJA has an excellent relationship with Streamline and I am pleased to say that our members receive extremely favourable rates on their credit and debit card transactions,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton. “However we believe that some smaller businesses, who may not have previous experience of the system, may be unaware that if they undertake a CNP transaction with someone who subsequently turns out to be have been using a fraudulent card, they will not only lose their goods but will also be charged for the sale by the credit card company – even though they may have received permission for that sale to proceed. Authorisation is no guarantee of payment,” she adds. Streamline itself is well aware of the risks of CNP sales and has issued a ‘Best Practice

18 The Jeweller November 2010

Advice to Merchants’ check list giving warning signs to look out for. These include customers who insist on next day delivery and others requesting a telephone order with delivery to a local address – especially where

high-value, easily resalable merchandise (such as jewellery) is involved. Look out too for customers who will not provide a landline number and who want you to release goods to a third party such as a chauffeur or a taxi-driver. “I think the message here, when the phone call comes in a few days before Christmas from someone wanting to buy a £5,000 pendant without them being present, is to think twice before you take the order. “If the person is genuine they should not mind coming into your premises to process the transaction; sending you a cheque which you can wait to clear; or buying the goods online through a secure website, if you have this facility,” says Straughton. The final piece of advice comes from Streamline: ‘During a telephone order, state that you will need to see the card at the time of delivery; a fraudster will invariably abandon the call, whereas a genuine cardholder will negotiate a method of delivery to allow such checking to take place.’

BJA News | TV personality Claudia Winkleman presents Barry Bennett (centre) with Supplier of the Year award at the 2010 Jewellery Awards, watched by Michael Ferraro of TH March.

Closing date nears for BJA/Jewellery Show Award he closing date for The BJA’s long-standing award at The Jewellery Show is fast approaching with entries for the first round of the competition closing on 29th November. Entry forms are downloadable now from www.bja.org.uk/award This year’s competition is for Cuffs and there will be two separate categories to chose from: precious cuffs and fashion cuffs. In both cases the judges will be looking for bold, eye-catching pieces which show real design flair. The judging panel, which will comprise well-known retailers, jewellery journalists and some big-name designers, will also be looking to reward pieces that are well made and commercially viable. As an additional incentive to enter, all the winning and running-up designs will be featured on the Pandora-sponsored catwalk which will run throughout The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair Birmingham (6th-9th February, 2011). “This competition provides the winning firms with an unbeatable PR opportunity. Not only will the winner of each category get a free feature page in this magazine, they will also receive great internet and trade press exposure as well as having the chance to showcase their products to an international audience on the catwalk. Add to that a £1,000 discount on their stand at Spring Fair 2012, and this really is an opportunity that any cuff producer simply cannot afford to miss,” says the competition’s organiser, Lindsey Straughton of the BJA.

Operating in the mainstream arry Bennett, managing director of Gecko Jewellery became a member of The BJA’s National Committee to ensure that what he terms ‘mainstream’ jewellery producers were fully represented within the organisation. Bennett came into the jewellery industry twenty years ago with absolutely no previous knowledge of the trade. “I did all sorts of things in my youth before going travelling with my then partner and now business partner Kate Carling. “We ended up teaching English in Asia and while we were in Thailand we had the idea of importing and selling silver jewellery. We brought home as much as our credit cards would stand and began selling it at Camden Market in London. It was a huge hit and ‘Gecko’ was formed shortly thereafter. I think the fact that we had no idea about the industry and came to it with fresh eyes was probably an advantage.” Gecko has grown enormously over the years and now employs some sixty staff with offices in London’s Soho and in Witham in Essex. It excels in its field and was voted ‘Supplier of the Year’ in the 2010 UK Jewellery Awards. “We soon decided that we wanted exclusivity in our collections and have therefore created a very strong New Product Development department to enable us to produce not only our own-brand ranges but also bespoke designs for customers," explains Bennett. “We like to think of ourselves as a onestop shop as we now offer gold and costume jewellery as well as silver collections aimed firmly at the mainstream.” Gecko joined the BJA as soon as the business was formed. “I’ve always found it to be well ahead of the curve in terms of environmental/ethical issues and in keeping us informed about the technical and legislative things which every business needs to know,” he says. He was invited to join the National Committee around five years ago by the then chairman, Barrie Dobson, as part of a drive to see more ‘mainstream’ producers involved with the running of the Association. Since joining he has been a keen supporter not only of those producers, but also of nurturing stronger links across the supply chain. “As well as being a purveyor of information and services, I would personally like the BJA and indeed the NAG, to do more to promote jewellery in general to the consumer. I have been delighted to see the formation of events like London Jewellery Week and now British Silver Week, but believe with greater cooperation across the trade we could do more and I am keen to see if budgets can be found to facilitate this,” he says.

The Voice of the Industry 19

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UK Sales Manager Judith Wade • T. +44 7834 490060 • www.tisento-milano.com • Email: info@tisentomilano.com • All Ti Sento Milano juwellery is made of sterling silver • Prices from £ 35,-

Autumn-Winter 2010/2011

the

Jeweller picks... SCARLETT

Created by Scarlett jewellery, Mojos are a range of British-made charm beads, etched with inspirational messages, which can be worn on all brands of bead bracelets and necklaces. They retail at £27 in silver and £80 in gold. www.scarlettjewellery.com

DOMINO Domino’s Trends and Fashion collection was launched at IJL and has proved incredibly popular ever since. As the name suggests, the line is Domino’s take on some of the coming season’s most contemporary jewellery styles and trends. The collection features a number of highly individualistic ‘looks’ that feature statement stones, contrasting rose gold and onyx, textured and highly polished finishes. Shown here are rose gold and diamond earrings, ring and pendant. www.dominojewellery.com

DAY C

Established by jewellery artist-designer Daisy Choi, Day C collections combine silver, 24 carat gold-plated silver, oxidised silver and porcelain and are intended to be ‘playful, thoughtful and wearable’. Shown here is her Gold Egg with Southsea pearl. www.dayc.co.uk

MCKENZIE

New from Mckenzie are Virtue Drops – a slightly different take on the charm category. Stretchy silver mesh necklaces (which can be wrapped around the wrist to be worn as a bracelet) are hung with silver drops, some of which are set with CZ, freshwater pearls and coloured stones. Some of the drops are gold-plated and leather bracelets are also available in the collection. sales@gmckenzie.com

STORM

The new Pizaz watch by Storm offers an extra element of bling, thanks to a combination of bright enamel on the strap and dial and five little Swarovski crystals against the seethrough case back. Besides this gold/aqua model, the watch also comes in a gold/ white version and alternative styles in purple, hot pink and black. www.stormwatches.com

LUMINOX

CYNTHIA GALE

Combining two currently hot trends – filigree and jewellery with ‘meaning’ – is the GeoArt Filigree Lace collection by New York designer Cynthia Gale. The collection of earrings, bracelets and beads in sterling silver overlayed with 14 carat gold are available in the 12 birthstones. The twisted wire of the filigree forms a gothic quartrefoil shape. www.geoartnyc.com

ZELIA HORSLEY SARAH STAFFORD

Designer-maker Sarah Stafford creates eye-catching jewellery that is inspired by geometry, precision and proportion and features 18 carat gold and platinum set with diamonds and other gemstones. She now uses CAD techniques to develop new variations on her signature themes. www.sarahstafford.co.uk

Luminox has added a new model to the Colourmark family of watches – the Steel Series continues the current black dials with coloured markings, but has also added a silver dial version. The series will use blue and yellow night illumination on all models and will come on signature PU straps. For early 2011 solid link steel bracelets will also be available. www.sanglobe.co.uk

Zelia Horsley’s ‘unhinged’ collection brings together texture and colour with mechanical articulating elements, and draping and threaded chains – all of which have had a previous life. They are 50-70 years old but have been rescued and revitalised to begin a new life, integrated into her latest collections. www.zeliahorseley.com

RUBY FRUIT

JUNGHANS

The new Attaché Automatic mechanical watch by Junghans completes the Attaché range from its Meister collection. The characteristics of the existing lines – Attaché Agenda, Chronoscope, Calendar and Power Reserve – are incorporated into the new model, along with a clear, sober design and fine mechanical movement. The 41.5 millimetre case combines satinfinished and polished stainless steel. Sapphire crystal is used on both sides; the crocodile leather of the strap is sourced from approved breeders and the movement, visible through the sapphire crystal back, is the finely-decorated Junghans automatic calibre J800.1. www.junghans.co.uk

SIFANI

In tune with the very popular trend for stacking jewellery, Sri Lankan-based familyrun fine jewellery company Sifani (which has a shop in London's Walton Street) has launched Magic Tough, a range of white gold rings featuring coloured stones such as amethyst, peridot, citrine, pink sapphires and tzavorite. www.sifani.com

AMERICAN ESTATE

Created by Marlon Russell, whose family runs a bespoke jewellery business in Hatton Garden, Ruby Fruit is a new fine jewellery range for children. Tailored to children of all ages, from babies to teenagers, the current collection of jewellery and keepsakes brings a touch of whimsy with dolly mixture charms and jigsaw puzzle piece-shaped pendants. The more obvious teddy bears and fairies will not feature in this line, which will have a stronger fashion identity instead, with gold, silver, diamonds, Swarovski crystals and freshwater pearls taking starring roles. www.rubyfruit.co.uk

STEPBYSTEP

American Estate Jewelry’s debut collection of sterling cuffs utilises the repousse technique and includes a series of seven distinctive sterling silver cuffs, each lined in gold. Hand-chased from the sterling silver in lavish sculptural detail, the cuffs are intended to be handed down as heirlooms. Prices range from $550-$695. www.americanestatejewellery.com

New designs in StepByStep’s handcrafted, sculptural jewellery collection feature a contemporary trio of rhodium, Tomback – a copper alloy – and refined aluminium. The strong, flexible lines, which are created in Switzerland, also make use of rubber. The designer’s trademark palette of gold, silver, red and black is still in evidence but the new collection includes also a combination of camel, black and charcoal. www.stepbystep-uk.com

www.kitheath.com Tel 01271 329123 Email sales@kitheath.com

| Feature

the

Jeweller

Axel Niesing (left) and Axel Fritsch

Brand Profile

bastian inverun Belinda Morris discovers a contemporary fashion jewellery brand making inroads into the traditional UK market. t has taken a while for it to happen in the UK, but the market for fashion-led, silver jewellery within the traditional, fine jewellery environment is beginning to take off. Whether the move is economy-driven or is a simple result of customer desire, more and more independent jewellers, who would, once upon a time, have shunned anything that wasn’t crafted from gold and set with precious stones, are looking with fresh eyes at this very commercial element of the industry.

Arguably it is the brand that has helped to drive the sales of fashion jewellery through these outlets. And a great many of these hail from the continent, where jewellery retailers are a step or two ahead of us when it comes to diversifying. One such brand is bastian inverun. And by the way, if you’re struggling to translate ‘inverun’, is not German, but actually a shortened version of the Latin words ingenuus, verum, unicus – noble, genuine, unique.

26 The Jeweller November 2010

Inspiration [comes] from current fashion trends, while ensuring that the ‘clear’ bastian look is maintained… these are not pieces that are so über trendy that they come with built-in obsolescence.

Although bastian has had a presence in the UK for around 10 years, prevailing attitudes have meant that headway has been slow and steady rather than explosive – this is no Pandora phenomenon. “Despite some progress, the UK market is still not easy,” says Axel Niesing, joint managing director and co-owner of the business with Axel Fritsch. This is in contrast to America which is proving to be much more of a walk in the park for the bastian reps. “During the last six months we opened with lots of high-end jewellers, like Rolex dealers. We think that US jewellers may be a bit more modern and open-minded,” he suggests, while adding that he’s hopeful that jewellery retailers here will be more accepting of fashion-orientated silver in time. Established in 1974, the Bremen-based bastian GmbH & Co. KG, is one of the leading silver jewellery suppliers in Germany and its brand, bastian inverun is market leader in the sector of sterling silver with coloured stones and diamonds – regularly voted number one in trade surveys. Unsurprisingly, given the geography as well as the style of jewellery, the collections also do well in the key European markets,

Feature | while Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Russia, the US and, somewhat obscurely, Namibia, are all taking an interest in the clean, contemporary-looking, affordable ranges. “Since its very beginning we have been focused on sterling silver, ‘the new gold’, as the Americans say nowadays,” explains Niesing – who is a recent arrival in the jewellery industry, via banking and a branded chemicals company where he was managing director. And while gold is always featured somewhere in the collections, these days 90 per cent of the business – which consists of around 600 different designs, up to 150 of which are new each season – is in silver.

Just what constitutes ‘natural’ is a moot point, but in this instance, apart from gold, sterling silver and diamonds, pearls, amethysts, citrines, topaz and peridots also feature – to particularly stunning effect, in my view, in sinuous silver cocktail rings with dollops of gemstone colour. Rather beautiful close-up shots of key pieces from the collection, along with photos of models wearing the jewellery are available to retailers through catalogues, posters, point of sale material and images for advertising and PR. Exclusive packaging and display is free to stockists. However, bastian GmbH has veered away from the tried and tested path of commercial fashion jewellery in one area of its business, and that is through SPREEGLANZ. Launched last year, SPREEGLANZ (always written as capital letters, in contrast to the lower case mother brand) is a Berlin-based design project that brings together young designers from around the world, who create “totally new kinds of jewellery”. Launched at the high fashion Premiere Classe show in Paris to enthusiastic buyer response, the free reign given to the designers has led to combinations of materials – like bicycle chains with pearls – that would

be unthinkable from bastian inverun. Well, for the time-being maybe. Meanwhile, somewhat more in the real world, the company introduced a line of cufflinks last year and in 2011 will be launching an additional brand into the fold: Marc O’Polo Jewels, which has been created under license for the internationally renowned Scandinavian casual fashion clothing label for men and women. The move should help to further reinforce the company’s global status as a fashionoriented designer brand.

“Jewellery retailers in the UK who carry bastian are similar to those we sell to in Germany,” says Niesing. “They are qualityorientated independents, who prefer to strengthen their individual image by not focusing on brands that are available everywhere else.” Both are drawn to similar styles, he says: bold statement necklaces, colourful gemstone pieces and jewellery that incorporates unusual materials like stingray leather in directional colours. The creation of the bastian inverun brand – which includes a silver and diamonds collection that was launched around twenty years ago – is overseen by head of design Heidi Fleiss. Together with a team of independent German designers she finds inspiration from current fashion trends, while ensuring that the ‘clear’ bastian look is maintained. These are not pieces that are so über trendy that they come with built-in obsolescence. “To a certain extent it is important to us that our designs are made to last for an eternity,” explains Niesing. The company also sets great store by the fact that only natural materials are used.

The Voice of the Industry 27

| Insurance Matters

These risks can include anything from items which pose a greater fire hazard to something which increases the attractiveness of your premises to a burglar.

charge an additional premium or require extra precautions to be carried out before agreeing to provide cover. If you plan to stock higher values of jewellery, particularly in your main display windows, a good plan would be to ensure your policy window display limits are adequate for the values on display; this would apply both during the day and at night. Also, if you feel that you need to leave more of your higher value stock out of your safe, outside of business hours, whether in the window or elsewhere, then please check that your existing out-ofsafe limit is adequate. It is important to remember that should you not inform your insurers of changes to your business activities, it could enable them to decline or at best reduce a claim presented to them. Clearly the level of your stock cover and the complexity as to how this is insured as part of your insurance programme, will vary from business to business. This is why it is crucial that your exact requirements are understood by your broker and insurer to ensure there are no gaps in your cover. If your stock levels increase by a small amount each year in the run up to Christmas, then the standard set percentage seasonal increase should be adequate. However if your stock levels vary more widely, this would have to be built into your policy individually. Using a professional insurance broker who takes the time to understand your business is an important part of this process.

products or carry higher stock, you need to check your policy. The most important first step is to notify your insurers of any changes to ensure adequate cover is in place. Most retail jewellers’ block insurance polices include as standard a stock seasonal

T.H. March & Co Limited is a family-owned firm of insurance brokers founded in 1887 with offices in London and nationwide. The company covers household, motor, life, travel and schemes for the customers of jewellers. Visit: www.thmarch.co.uk

Making sure that Christmas is covered In the lead up to the Christmas, Neil McFarlane, of specialist jewellery insurance broker T.H. March, offers advice and tips for carrying extra stock and product lines over the festive period. raditionally, Christmas is one of the jeweller’s busiest trading periods of the year — it’s time to start thinking about any new product lines and additional stock you will be carrying. When deciding on the collections you are going to present over the festive period, insurance is probably the last thing on your mind, but it is important to keep your insurers aware of any changes to the stock you will be supplying to ensure your policy covers you for this. It is inevitable that stock will be increased over the next two months. Double checking your insurance policy’s terms and conditions is probably fairly low down your list of priorities right now, but having adequate cover in place is vital and, should you alter

28 The Jeweller November 2010

increase provision, which provides cover for a fixed increase in your stock value at set periods during the policy year. For many businesses this standard provision may be sufficient, however, it is important to check both the level of increase and the periods involved. For some businesses it is not just the lead up to Christmas where an increase may be required. If the standard cover is not sufficient, seek the advice of your insurance broker. Most jewellers’ block policies will include an option to change both the level of increase and the periods involved. It is also important to let your insurer know if you change the type of stock you carry. In the eyes of the insurer, your newly stocked items may be considered to be of a

greater risk than the items you traditionally stock. These risks can include anything from items which pose a greater fire hazard to something which increases the attractiveness of your premises to a burglar. In certain cases your insurers may want to

Telephone + 44 (0)844 871 8454 www.londonroadjewellery.co.uk info@londonroadjewellery.co.uk

| Opinion : John Henn

The mystical art of

Design Stargazing John Henn attempts to get to grips with the esoteric world of fashion forecasting.

t's been long overdue, so, at the recent IJL exhibition in London, I felt I should attend one of the seminars on future design trends. I was not surprised to find the room full to bursting, with even the speaker giving up her chair to a potential acolyte. What followed turned out to be some of the most extraordinary finger-in-the-wind theories! And it proved that, with nothing more than the confidence to appear convincing, a person can charge for their services as a medium in the art of design stargazing. So long as all the bases are covered, in as oblique a way as possible, there can never be the accusation of ‘getting it wrong’. I know I will undoubtedly be oversimplifying the process here, but what seems to happen to reach these trend forecasts is essentially a series of lunches where the great and the good of the world of colour and style look for some common ground. There were, we learned, paint producers from the Middle East, floor-covering companies in the form of tiles from Egypt and hard surface (that’s Corian or Linoleum) producers

30 The Jeweller November 2010

from North America, plus a host of others. It was the Emperor’s new clothes all over again. The future was to be divided into four categories titled: Whisper, Spirit, Genteel, and Risk. I’m going to try to explain to you what came next as these four categories were outlined. The individuals take this very seriously, so there must be something in it but I’m struggling to see it myself. Whisper – ‘a metallic iridescent cellular cerebral design phase, with colour fading in and out of different levels of transparency’.

desire to have an allotment on your town house roof. While the people in the countryside will start to grow their own jewellery! I cannot make head nor tail of that. Genteel – what is left after the money has gone. The re-learning of domestic skills, like cooking, will inspire a return to hand skills including icing, gilding and moulding shapes. Elegant forms will return, arrogance will be out, homely will be in. Video games will be in the drawer, playing cards will be on the table. Help! Finally, Risk – Sci-fi meets low-fi, post apocalyptic. Strong sense of heavy industrial colours and finishes. Minerals, like coal and oil would feature along with, yes you guessed it, concrete necklaces. There really are designers making necklaces out of concrete, like a string of children’s building bricks threaded together on wire. If I hadn’t seen it with my own eyes I’d never have believed it. Try as I may though, I cannot find a retailer of such an item. Maybe I’ll have to look in Camden Market next time I’m in the north of the capital, or perhaps it could be a goer in Sicily! So what should we make of it all? Is life as we know it going to change forever by 2013; might there be just a chance that it will not? If it does, then they will have been right, but will we care? If they are wrong will anybody remember what they said – the cheques will have been long banked. I wonder what my predecessor on this Opinion page would have made of it. If Kevin Coleman had been in the room with me he would almost certainly have walked out. After hearing of his passing last month I am saddened that our industry has lost a real personality – he is the third to go from the top drawer of the NAG in 2010. What that means is that destiny is just that, and while

What seems to happen to reach these trend forecasts is essentially a series of lunches where the great and the good of the world of colour and style look for some common ground. Reproduction of patterns, weaves, wicker, and soft round shapes. So here we have covered all organic patterns and colours. Spirit – urban countryside. Strong tones of wood, agates, and lichens. It seems the people in the cities are going to like the colours of the countryside; there may be a

death is for certain, hopefully jewellery will continue to remain in the real world where we will continue to sell beautiful things from buildings made from industrial materials, not the other way round. Don’t worry Kevin the industry is safe in our hands at least. However we will all still miss you!

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Peter Lang Australia

Jessica de Lotz

nature and have a more esoteric moniker. The term ‘costume’ jewellery isn’t much help either, unless you’re talking about vintage pieces in paste… which we’re not in this case. “I would rather use ‘contemporary’ jewellery,” says designer maker Ornella Iannuzzi. “I don’t really like the term ‘fashion’, as that means that it involves trends and some lines to follow and I personally don’t follow anything other than my own inspiration”. You can see her point, but a great many makers of wedding and engagement rings might also consider their creations to be contemporary. “Fashion jewellery used to be described as non-precious jewellery with a very contemporary, fast-changing look – often throw-away jewellery made from plastic and plated metals. Fine jewellery represents precious, classic designs,” says designer Babette Wasserman. “Now all the boundaries are blurred and big couture houses are

Jewellery is not just about investment pieces using the most costly of rare stones and precious metals… it’s about adornment. So in that case, asks Belinda Morris, can ‘fashion’ jewellery have a place in the fine jeweller’s window? efining ‘fashion’ jewellery is not as simple a task as you might imagine. Obviously fashion, in some form or another and to a greater or lesser extent, plays a role in the creation of almost any piece of jewellery. And then it’s also true to say that the word ‘fashion’ itself can conjure up different things for different people – to some it might mean the ‘out-there’ creations of hot-out-ofcollege designer-makers, while for others it may well say Accessorize and New Look.

32 The Jeweller November 2010

Semantics are important in a creative world such as ours – choose the wrong word to describe someone’s work and you run the risk of offending or, worse, being taken for a Philistine. So how to describe that sector of the market that isn’t traditional, classic or purely chosen for the value of the stone? ‘Designer’ jewellery, to me, specifies that which is created by a single, named individual – which therefore excludes those brands that may be more commercial in

Swarovski

Fashion Jewellery | making precious jewellery, which is also very fashionable. We are also a cross-category product… with a precious element to it – all our designs are sterling silver or vermeil.” According to Ashiela Pattni of Argenta A’Ora, which produces and markets its own Bijouterie line of jewellery, “fashion jewellery is not just available to the elite, but to anyone [who wants] to accessorise to suit their purse strings.” A further distinction is provided by designer Katherine Bree: “there’s a sense of fun in the designs, which are colourful and stand-out,” she says of her own fashion pieces. So fashion it is then. You know what I mean. And for the sake of argument – and this feature – fashion jewellery covers two distinct sectors. There are the commercial brands, often using sterling silver and sometimes less precious, but high-quality metals, that largely fall under the £100 retail mark. And then there are the more exclusive, often one-off pieces, created by artist-designers, whose materials can run the gamut from wood and feathers to 24 carat gold combined with rough stones or sea shells.

Melissa James

“Traditional jewellery shops have woken up to the fact that department stores and fashion boutiques have been taking a slice of the jewellery business that they can also share.”

Bijouterie

Never mind the gap

trends and styles and wary of what volume could bring. A huge industry education process has taken place to make this brave move into what the consumer wants – which today is often fashion and silver,” she adds. “I definitely believe there is a new niche here for the retail jeweller. With prices of gold and silver skyrocketing, why not try to venture into a new product category,” says Henning Kern, creative and marketing director of Danish brand Dyrberg/Kern. “We take our creative departure from the world of fashion, more than from the world of precious metals and stones,” he explains, “but the line between fashion and fine gets more blurry these days as we also focus on much better raw materials and gemstones.” “It all comes down to branding,” says Gered Langley, brand manager for Just J and Julie Sandlau at DMJ. “With fashion present in nearly all aspects of our lives through media, and of course retail, affordable high street collections have allowed a wider range of consumers to become style savvy. We have experienced some of our traditional retailers updating their store with more modern brands, but still keeping their prestige and history present,” he adds. Roger Latham, sales director of Lola Rose is seeing an increasing cross-over between fashion and fine jewellery buyers as the trend for jewellery as an accessory continues to grow. “Department stores that once wouldn’t have touched fine jewellery are now beginning to dabble in this area,” he says, “and traditional jewellery shops have woken up to the fact that department

Ti Sento

The question is, can such fashion-oriented lines have a place in the fine jewellery shop, or must they always be confined to specialist galleries, department stores, high fashion clothing retailers and their own workshops and on-line outlets? Is the division between ‘fine’ and ‘fashion’ less clear cut than it once was? “The line is getting closer between the two,” says Judith Wade, UK sales manager of the Ti Sento jewellery brand. “But it hasn’t always been the case – over the last two years the gap has narrowed. The fine jewellery buyer was more apprehensive to begin with – nervous of silver and CZ when they and their customers had been used to diamonds; nervous of the seasons, colours,

The Voice of the Industry 33

| Fashion Jewellery Necessity is the mother…

Babette Wasserman

stores and fashion boutiques have been taking a slice of the jewellery business that they can also share.” While still a relative newcomer to the industry, jewellery designer maker Sian Bostwick (one of the BJA’s KickStarters at IJL) has noticed that “the market is opening up to a degree” and has been able to observe “a definite shift towards a more trend-based awareness” particularly among smaller independents. “The fine/fashion jewellery overlap can happily occur up to around a few hundred pounds in value – dependent on the relative wealth of the retailer’s customer base,” she says. “And this relatively high-value, married up with a more fashion-conscious consumer, has produced a gap in the market that small jewellery firms and designer makers are ideally positioned to fill.” Julie Sandlau

Jianhui

“Now all the boundaries are blurred and big couture houses are making precious jewellery, which is also very fashionable.”

“I think the recession has led to a greater crossover between the two [areas],” says fashion jewellery designer Jianhui Yan. “At IJL I found that fine jewellery buyers who previously bought only diamonds, platinum and gold pieces, were looking for high-end fashion items to attract a different type of customer into their shops.” Of the 32 new customers who placed orders with him, over 60 per cent were from fine jewellery shops. “It was a real surprise for us as we had not considered them to be target customers until now,” he says. Italian brand Nomination is also finding that more jewellery retailers are looking to stock fashion pieces. “With the rising price of gold, most now have more space for fashion collections and are looking for alternatives to the traditional offerings,” says marketing director and co-owner Alessandro Gensini. “And they’re looking for some more affordable pieces that still appeal to [their customers] who want something innovative, but that can also be spontaneous purchases.” “With some high-end fine jewellers being hit hard by the recession, fashion jewellery can provide affordable, relevant consumption that their customers want,” agrees jewellery designer Peter Lang of Peter Lang Australia, which showed at IJL for the first time this year. “Times are a-changing – it’s the new black!” The effects of the recession have obviously created the impetus among many retailers to think outside the (black leather, silk-lined) box recently. It’s no big secret that certain fashion brands have pulled many a business out of a deep hole over the past two years or so. But current pragmatism notwithstanding, what has kept the traditional jeweller from stepping down the fashion route until now?

Storywheels

34 The Jeweller November 2010

| Fashion Jewellery that can sit at the base of the window and attract the children of clients, as well as potential new clients.” Kern agrees with this perspective. “Many retailer jewellers have figured out that fashion jewellery of a certain quality is a different product with different attributes… it creates more traffic in the store and is thereby a unique opportunity to create additional, faster turnover – because the product simply has a shorter lifespan,” he adds.

Thinking about the seasons Which brings us to a key element of fashion jewellery and one that might, arguably, deter potential retail customers – trends. “Fashion jewellery responds to a current trend, which might only last six months… it’s more seasonal,” says Mette Drost Christensen, buying manager at Pandora. Buying fashion jewellery therefore requires the retailer “to be ahead of the

Nicole Akong

Gemini

Could it be snobbery? “Totally!” says Michael Lynes, owner of the eponymous Witney jewellers, who has bought and revitalised a second shop in Henley-on-Thames this month. “I can still hear myself say ‘I won’t ever have cubic zirconia’ – and I still won’t have it in gold. I’m a very traditional jeweller”, (he spent 18 years at Mappin & Webb before starting his own business). Nevertheless, Lynes is now carrying two fashion ranges, one of them Moon Jewellery. So why the change of heart?

36 The Jeweller November 2010

“Customers travel more these days and don’t want the worry of expensive jewellery while they’re travelling,” he explains. “They want something for fun that will accessorise an outfit. Also, our fine quality jewellery customers are also looking for wellpackaged gifts, that are not priced outside of the value of the content. So having fashion jewellery complements what we are doing.” He is also finding that the visual impact provided by fashion jewellery can be a bonus. “The upper part of our window display is predominantly traditional jewellery,” he explains. “But a single-stone piece – that never changes – doesn’t stop people in their tracks. Moon has nice centre pieces

Ornello Ianuzzi

Moon Jewellery

latest trends”. Or, as Julie Martick of Martick jewellery notes, some buyers are happy to be guided by the designer as to which styles are ‘on-trend’ and therefore “flying out”. A retailer may not stock other product lines – like clothing or accessories – but a basic knowledge of what customers are going to be wearing come the new season, is helpful, vital even. Particularly colours. “Fashion jewellery is more closely linked with trends in colour,” says Latham. “At Lola Rose we work with trend prediction companies to ensure that the colours we use in our stones will match in with clothing and other accessories. Our designer,

Fashion Jewellery |

Nomination

The visual impact provided by fashion jewellery can be a bonus… a single-stone piece – that never changes – doesn’t stop people in their tracks

Lola Rose

Nikki Gerwirtz has an almost uncanny sixthsense as to what will be appearing on the catwalks.” “The creative process starts at least 12 months in advance (like the fashion clothing world),” explains Wade of Ti Sento. “The team look for and anticipate the latest trends through visiting shows worldwide – the challenge is to transpose designers’ aesthetic creations into real jewellery by using technical know-how and expertise from our manufacturing side,” she adds. “Fashion jewellery has a little more latitude in its brief… so the types of materials used can be quite extensive,” says Lang.

Martick Jewellery

Dyrberg Kern

“Similarly, the various colours and themes are more dependent on current trends than fine jewellery, so can change with the fashion as each season dictates.” It stands to reason that the buyer who is used to looking at fashion jewellery will be more in-tune with the nuances of fashion directions than a fine jewellery buyer. But, says Kern, it’s not a black and white thing anymore, given that “there is so much trend information in jewellery magazines and jewellery is a part of the global fashion scene.”

Current fashion jewellery trends • • • • • • • • • •

large scale layering of large and small pieces together stacking of bangles and rings layers of chains and fringes mixing of materials, including precious and non-precious vintage/heirloom/romantic forms and messages religious symbols eclectic/world travel trinkets nature inspired forms including birds/feathers, insects, flowers cuffs, cocktail rings and chandelier earrings

…and looking ahead to Spring 2011 • stencils, cut-outs, lattice effects, plus CZ, marcasite, pearls and white stones (Goldmajor) • recycled materials like wood and textiles (Jianhui) • coloured enamel, diamond-cut surfaces on graphic shapes, smaller crystals in shades of pale grey, white and sand (Dyrberg/Kern) • silk with silver charms and stones (Babette Wasserman) • alternative materials for large geometric shapes (Pandora) • bees (for prosperity) and birds (Martick)

The Voice of the Industry 37

Balagan

dictats such as scale and colour, finds also that her main inspiration is materials-driven. “It comes from the stones that come in and what I see around me. I am primarily an artist – which is reflected in my love of colour, used creatively in my pieces. And if it’s not gemstones (plus, fabrics, feathers and fur) that are providing the creative focus of fashion jewellery, it will very probably be crystals that are getting all the attention. And regardless of whether current trends demand it, the ultra glittering and often dramatic effect has been finding a devoted market for some time. Swarovski crystals sit alongside gemstones like quartz in Peter Lang Australia’s boldly glamorous, silver and gold-plated pieces; both Gemini Jewellery and Jianhui make full use of the most colourful crystals for really impactive

Inspiration Having said all of that, following trends is not necessarily imperative when it comes to choosing fashion jewellery – especially if it is the work of designers rather than brands. “I think the key to fashion jewellery is that there are no main trends!” says Iannuzzi. “Every designer has their own particular style. I am not looking at what other people do or what retailers sell. I just do what I feel, even if it might not be to everyone’s taste – I have my niche market.” That’s as maybe, but in fact Iannuzzi’s recurring theme is nature, which is something that has captured the collective imagination of brands and designers alike this year. The materials and stones that she uses, influence the forms and colours of her sculptural pieces. Melissa Cumming of Melissa James Jewellery, while bearing in mind certain trend

Goldmajor

jewellery and Nomination combines colourtreated black stainless steel with red Swarovski crystals as “sparkling stones are never out of fashion”. And, of course, there are Swarovski’s own jewellery collections. The brand, described by the company as ‘Modern Lux’, creates jewellery where every possible variation and

Pandora

technique using crystal has been exploited, from crystal mesh to pavé, beading and Pointiage® – a craft technique where all the stones are applied individually by hand. These, says creative director Nathalie Colin, “are desirable product which are accessible and have broad appeal. The concept, she says, “embraces the idea that luxury is no longer [about] material acquisition for status… it’s not elitist.” Which broadly speaking, sums up fashion jewellery which, most are agreed, can happily be worn with fine jewellery these days, as ‘anything goes’. “It’s about mixing pieces that complement one another,” says designer Nicole Akong, “not about segregating based on ‘type’.” Wade points out that fashion jewellery can tone down the look of beautiful fine jewellery and then other times add to the look a woman wishes to make. “Mixing it up is becoming more the norm,” adds Lang, “with our adventurous consumers playing their own game. Retail jewellers,” he suggests, “need to offer an ever-broader spectrum of product to satisfy this market.”

Contacts

Sian Bostwick

38 The Jeweller November 2010

Akong London . . . . . . . . akonglondon.com Babette Wasserman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . babette-wasserman.com Balagan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . balagan.co.uk Bijouterie . . . . . . . . . . . . . argentaaora.co.uk Dyrberg/Kern . . . . . . . . . . dyrbergkern.com Gemini Jewellery . . . . gemini-jewellery.com Goldmajor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . goldmajor.com Jessica de Lotz . . . . . . . . jessicadelotz.co.uk Jianhui. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . jianhui.co.uk Julie Sandlau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . dmj.info Just J . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . dmj.info

Lola Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . lolarose.co.uk Martick Jewellery . . . . martickjewellery.com Melissa James. . . melissajamesjewellery.com Moon Jewellery . . . . . . moonjewellery.com Nomination . . . . . . . . . . . . nomination.com Ornella Iannuzzi . . . . . ornella-iannuzzi.com Pandora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0191 496 3740 Peter Lang Australia . . . barberinifashion.com Sian Bostwick . . . . . . . . . sianbostwick.co.uk Storywheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . dmj.info Swarovski . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . swarovski.com Ti Sento . . . . . . . . . . . . . tisento-milano.com

Peterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs are inspired by current international trends combined with a modern twist on vintage references. One of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most influential and successful fashion jewellery designers, Peter Lang is now stocking throughout the UK and Europe. All items are hand-made in Australia with Swarovski crystals and finished in triple silver and gold plate. Each range has dramatic every day wearables to glamourous evening pieces complimented by stunning bridal designs for an unforgettable entrance statement.

Dress - Joe Challita Photograph - Dave Piper

The Voice of the Industry 39

| BJA Fashion Fundamentals

Back to Basics To create great fashion jewellery you need the right basic components and support services and there are plenty of members of the British Jewellers’ Association who can provide them. Mary Brittain spoke to some leaders in their fields.

Samuel Pitt hey used to say that if you couldn’t get a product made in Birmingham it couldn’t be made and Samuel Pitt, which was founded in 1865, is undoubtedly one of the companies that helped the city build this formidable reputation. “There is just about nothing in the way of castings and stampings that we cannot

produce,” says Edward Pitt, who with his father Robert runs the company today. The business offers a comprehensive selection of over 5,000 products covering everything from earring studs, crosses and St. Christopher’s through to 1,000 charm designs. Products are available in silver and gold, or silver and gold plate and the company can also produce in brass and bronze. “Some charms date back to Victorian times but others are contemporary. We’ve got traditional cottages, pixies, musical instruments, cars, planes – you name it – but we also do hearts and stars and a range of initials which are very popular at the moment,” says Edward. Nor do customers have to stick to the product list. Samuel Pitt is happy to work with its clients to develop their own designs and there is no minimum order. For further information call 0121 236 7737 or visit the company’s entry on the BJA website.

H A Light he name H A Light Findings, which is now part of the Rical Group, has been synonymous with jewellery components for decades. Sales manager, Angela Jones was keen to explain how it offers an unrivalled selection of base metal findings for jewellers. “If someone wants a particular style we’ll do our best to meet it,” she says. The product spectrum is certainly broad and the company’s 30-page catalogue covers everything from

brooch and necklace fittings through to components for keyrings. Findings are available in silver or gold plate and in black and copper finishes. The antique look is particularly popular at the moment. The company aims to maintain a level of stock tailored to meet the needs of its many customers. “We try to supply just about everything by next day delivery and we never ever throw anything away,” says Angela.

Claire Garnett f you are looking for someone British to produce finished pieces of costume jewellery Claire Garnett can help. Bucking the trend for overseas production, the business has begun to produce more and more of its output in Coventry and is doing this so successfully that it has recently employed two new members of staff to cope with increased demand. Its production covers it own collections as well as bespoke ranges for its many retail clients. “I like to feel that I’m principled in my business dealings and I believe in paying decent wages for this extremely skilled work which not everyone can do. Manufacturing in the UK also gives me more control on quality and delivery,” Claire Garnett told me. It’s a policy which seems to work. The Claire Garnett

40 The Jeweller November 2010

marine collection is now sold on UK, Greek and American cruise ships while other lines are carried by retailers countrywide. Bridal shops also provide a strong market as does her bespoke work for multiple retailers. Stock lines number over 1500 different bracelet, earring and necklace designs featuring mainly pearls and glass beads from the Czech Republic. All designs come in a huge range of different colours but lilac pearls and black and white are currently strong looks. “Currently things are chunky or ethnic but the English are still very conservative. The biggest change for us over recent years has been the shift from pierced to clip earrings: everybody seems to want them,” she says. Call 02476 711414 or visit the company’s website at: www.clairegarnett.com

This is clearly a good policy as in any fashion business trends come and go, but everything comes back round again. “A few years ago there was a huge trend for shoe clips. Then nobody wanted them but they are really popular again this year, and we’re selling them like hotcakes,” she says. H.A. Light’s products are available online at www.lightfindings.co.uk or by calling Angela on 0121 555 8395.

BJA Fashion Fundamentals | Cookson Precious Metals espite what its name might suggest, Cookson sells much more than simply precious metals and the company, which likes to describe itself as a one-stop shop for the jewellery trade, has much to offer those seeking fashion jewellery components. Products include a comprehensive selection of silver findings, beads (including Swarovski crystals and murano-style glass) as well as a large choice of freshwater pearls. There are also laser-cut precious metal beads and spacers in a range of finishes as well as products to string them together – silks, leathers, elastic, jump rings, clasps, charm beads, charm carriers – and even bead boards. The company offers a limited range of nonprecious findings, including earring posts, scroll fittings and droppers. While its precious metal clays from PMC and Art Clay are also popular for fashion jewellery production.

Current best sellers include laser-cut beads; catches and ear hook wires with Swarovski crystal, Swarovski heart pendants, silver charms with intricate designs and muranostyle charm-beads in pink and blue.

Cabochon semi-precious stones are also popular with pink tourmaline a firm favourite. All these products are available from their website: www.cooksongold.com or call 0845 100 1122 or 0121 200 2120.

Janie’s Stringing around the UK restringing broken necklaces and also creating new pieces for designers who send her the components she needs to create them on their behalf. She works with both precious and non-precious materials and especially pearls but jokes that she can string literally anything so long as it has a hole! Over the years Janie has built up her own stock of beads and clasps and can frequently supply matches for hard-to-find components. For further information call her on 01580 761039 or visit her website at: www.janies-stringing.co.uk

hings might have turned out very differently for bead-stringer Janie Stansbury. “I was actually taught bead-stringing on a return-to-work programme. They were offering all sorts of options – including taxi driving – but for me it was a toss up between painting on ceramics and the beads. I chose the latter and have never looked back,” she says. Janie learnt her trade in Hatton Garden working for a number of businesses before becoming manageress for a now defunct pearl business. ‘Janie’s Stringing’, which is based in Tenterden in Kent, was the outcome of her redundancy. She works for retailers

M H Pressings H Pressings is a one-man business based just outside Birmingham offering stamping and press work for the jewellery industry nationally. Its proprietor, Malcolm Hyman, who established the business in 1994, after many years in the trade, happily admits to being one of a dying breed. “Not many people now are doing what I do. For most processes I still use the old-fashioned way and this is frequently the best,” he says. Hyman believes the tide is perhaps turning back towards British manufacturing. “Some

of those who went abroad for products are returning because what they were offered left much to be desired in terms of quality, delivery and price consistency. They also appreciate having a supplier in the same time zone if there is a problem,” he says. Malcolm’s range includes base-metal cufflinks, St Christopher’s and blanks. He also carries out an increasing amount of bespoke work for young designers. Customers supply their own materials and pay simply for labour and time. The minimum order charge is £12.00 with an

additional charge for postage or delivery. The company can be contacted by phoning 01527 597719 or by sending an email to: mhpressings@lineone.net

BJA Sourcing Service The BJA offers a comprehensive, easy-touse sourcing service for its members’ extremely varied products. Call 0121 237 1110 or visit our website www.bja-org.uk to be put in touch with a suitable supplier.

The Voice of the Industry 41

Made from the highest quality sterling silver and shimmering CZ stones, Moon jewellery is available in a varied range of timeless yet contemporary collections. From cushioned pillows of silver to a glittering colour palette of brilliantly cut CZ stones, Moon has a collection for your most discerning customer.

Come and visit us at The Jewellery Show, Spring Fair, NEC Birmingham, 6th â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10th February 2011 Hall 17, Stand N18 Moon Jewellery, 6 Derryloran Industrial Estate, Sandholes Road, Cookstown, County Tyrone, Northern Ireland BT80 9LU Tel: 028 867 67977 Email: info@moonjewellery.com Web: www.moonjewellery.com

BJA Alternative Materials |

Natural Inspiration Use of unusual or unconventional materials to create beautifully alternative jewellery, sets this group of design-led firms – all members of the BJA – aside from the rest. Inspiration is invariably drawn from the medium itself: often from nature – fresh leaves and wood, ancient flint and meteorite rock for instance – and occasionally high tech colourful settings and new age materials. For more inspiration check out www.bja.org.uk

Balagan The ‘Blowing in the Wind’ collection features hand picked real leaves, preserved with different finishes, in either gold, silver, brass, copper or iridescent or vintage silver. Each leaf is a handcrafted piece of wearable art, unique and totally individual. Leaves available include cottonwood, aspen, lacey oak, birch and the very delicate sugar Canadian maple in various sizes. Unique branded POS, packaging and care cards are available. RRP: £40.00 T: 08452 600 925 W: www.balagan.co.uk

Amadora Hatton Garden based husband and wife partnership Amadora is importing European cut, high quality cubic zirconia set in sterling silver. RRP range from £160-£850 for rings and bracelets. T: 02074048120 E: kevin@amadorauk.co.uk

Andrew Geoghegan The ‘out of this world’ material called Gibeon, that the experts tell Andrew fell as meteorite rock in a rainfall style shower in Namibia, is a mix of iron, nickel and iridium. These Celestial Cufflinks are fashioned from the fascinating meteorite rocks with palladium and are framed with stunning VVS brilliant cut Diamonds and form part of his new men’s range. Prices available on request starting from £1,598 trade. T: 01133070100 W: www.andrewgeoghegan.com

GV Woods G V woods is now producing fine jewellery in mixtures of titanium and gold. Being very light in weight, the metal enables large, ornate items of jewellery to be created and is particularly suited to earrings and brooches. Pavé set items can be produced with all types of gem stones. The image shows a brooch, set in tourmalines, sapphires and diamonds. Prices are dependant on size and stone content. T: 01425 279312 E: gvw4@btconnect.com

The Voice of the Industry 43

| BJA Alternative Materials

Jianhui London

David Webdale With fashion in mind, using new design technologies such as CAD and industrial processes such as rapid prototyping, David Webdale produces silver buckles on stunning hand made leather belts. RRPs from £200 M:07783777812 W: www.davidwebdale.com

Leah Page

Jianhui London launched an iconic piece of jewellery at London Fashion Week, that is set to become the ‘next pashmina.’ The necklace designed by Jianhui Yan is made of hundreds of ethically sourced pieces of tiny light-weight wood that provide warmth when wrapped around the neck. The necklace can be worn long and loose but when venturing outside in the cold weather it can double up as a pashmina type scarf. Available in 10 colours RRP £108 T: 0844 504 9675 W: www.jianhui.co.uk/lookbook

‘Protection’ is a collection consisting of small-scale, wearable sculptures which highlight the beauty and sensuality of the human form. Man-made materials are transformed into delicately crafted smooth organic shapes, lifted with touches of silver and gold as shown on this upper arm cuff. T: 07960 517 395 W: www.leahkpage.com

Filigree Street

Muru Jewellery These new cocktail rings are made from toughened glass and sterling silver. They are available in a selection of striking colour combinations and are part of Muru's new Autumn/Winter collection. The translucent nature of the ring shank enhances the chequerboard-cut stone to give an extra sparkly finish that is perfect for Christmas. RRP: £45 T: 020 8245 1920 W: www.murujewellery.com

44 The Jeweller November 2010

The stone’s patterns, shaped by nature are the focal point of this eye-catching statement necklace. The star of the piece is a beautiful stripped flint, in a blend of grey, silver and cream colours. The stone is very rare, sourced from a location in Europe with limited output. The silver necklace also features an innovative pull and click fastener. RRP: £900 Tel. 020 7482 2212 W: www.filigreestreet.com

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L ATE ST

N E W S

F R O M

TH E

E D U C ATI O N

This month’s JET 1 Project Award winner announced

he National Association of Goldsmiths and Bransom have announced the recipient of September’s Bransom JET 1 Project Award. Joseph Joyce of F. Hinds, in WestonSuper-Mare has received a certificate and will be invited to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall.

“The content of this piece of JET 1 Project work [was] outstanding and a pleasure to read,” explains the project’s moderator. “Great care was taken in gathering the relevant information needed to answer each section of the assignment. Illustrations and the explanations are first class.

“Winning the award makes me realise that my studies are going to allow me to progress in the jewellery sector. All JET 1 final assignments are eligible for the award. “All Joseph’s assignments have been outstanding, well researched, and answered fully with great attention to detail,” says his delighted tutor, Michelle McCormick. “The presentation of his work has also been immaculate.”

46 The Jeweller November 2010

The coverage of the ‘C’ section of the assignment demonstrates a sound knowledge of how to use theoretical knowledge in a practical retail jewellery environment. Undoubtedly the very best JET 1 Project received during September and a worthy winner,” he added.

D E PA RTM E NT The final section of the Project, in the view of the moderator, was answered with a current retail approach to the situation. It indicated that Joseph has a sound knowledge of the service department and the variety of options that could be offered to a customer in these circumstances. “I’m really surprised that my project was selected,” says Joseph. “I’m glad that the efforts of students are being recognised. Winning the award makes me realise that my studies are going to allow me to progress in the jewellery sector. It’s really fulfilling to receive this award and it makes me really proud.” He also added how he’d like to “thank F. Hinds and the NAG for their support. I’d also like to thank the tutors for all their help.” Mike Parks, the manager of the WestonSuper-Mare brand of F. Hinds also took a moment to react to the award win: “Joseph is a valued member of my team. He has been with me for two years and has shown that he is a great team player and excellent salesperson. I am very proud of his passing the JET 1 course and especially proud of him for winning this award. Our Head Office, Training Department and the board of directors are delighted for him.” Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses, visit www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

Education + Training |

Meet the tutors:

Michelle McCormick Another in our occasional feature on the tutors that guide you through the JET courses. Michelle McCormick talks about her love of knowledge-sharing, staff-training and dangly earrings. What made you choose jewellery as a career path? It was my love of jewellery and what at first was a sales assistant role became a career when, soon after joining, my employer let me take the NAG Retail Jewellers’ Diploma (now the Professional Jewellers Diploma). What was your first job in the industry? Working for T.H. Baker and Co Ltd in 1992 How long have you worked in the industry? I’ve been in retail sales and management from 1992 until 2008 When did you become an NAG tutor? In 2003. What drew you towards working with the NAG? I was representing an employer at the NEC Spring Fair along with Jonathan Lambert,

who, knowing I was interested in becoming a tutor for the NAG, introduced me to Victoria Wingate. What are your specialist skills? I love sharing my knowledge and training staff to become competent jewellery retailers.

Biography in brief: Birthplace: Stourport-on-Severn, Worcestershire Family: Husband James, two daughters: Grace (four) and Ava (two) Qualifications: FGA, DGA, Retail Jewellers Diploma, Retail Gemstone Diploma Current job: Tutor for JET 1, JET 2 and JET Gemstone. Assessing customer service mainly for the hotel industry Hobbies: Studying art and treasures, keeping up to date with the jewellery trade and gemmology, pilates

What’s your favourite item of jewellery? A pair of dangly diamond and pearl earrings, given to me by James about 16 years ago. They are still my favourites. Why would you advise people to take a JET course? JET 1 is the perfect start – it covers all areas of knowledge needed by someone in the jewellery industry. So many people who have taken the course say that their confidence has grown so much. JET 2 should be taken as soon as you can after to enrich your knowledge and gain your Diploma. The JET Gemstone course too is invaluable to those selling and working with gemstones. What are the best bits of the Jet Courses? The content of the course notes covers so much. All of the JET courses include a day’s tutorial. I love presenting these and they are so valuable to those who attend.

The Voice of the Industry 47

| Ethical Jewellery

The Question of Fairtrade Gemstones Tanzanian Ruby Miner Photo: Rubyfair

Greg Valerio outlines the problems faced when trying to source coloured stones – and some of the possible solutions

A Quick Overview In the time that I have worked in the trade attempting to secure ethical products, perhaps the most problematic and vexing has been the question of gemstones. The reasons for this are varied, but the fact that gemstones are of less financial value than diamonds; are more readily accessible for the artisanal and small scale miner and are dominated by thousands of individual traders and dealers, makes understanding the gemstone omission from an ethical supply chain point of view, very challenging. The broader moves in the jewellery trade towards more transparent and traceable supply sources, has had its own impact on the gemstone industry, with a number of commercially driven ethical initiatives that have emerged, to begin to meet this growing demand for an ethical jewellery product.

The Issues These initiatives are badly needed when you begin to get a view on the myriad of human rights and environmental issues that the gemstone industry faces such as: child and bonded labour in the mines and the cutting and polishing shops; endemic smuggling by Golden Rutilated Quartz Photo: Brian Cook

48 The Jeweller November 2010

traders and indigenous land rights issues such as the Greenland ruby saga that has led local Inuit people to label the product ‘The Apartheid Ruby’. Yet perhaps the most infamous gemstone bad news story is the Burmese ruby, whose exploitation by the brutal military regime led to the current international ban. This ban is controversial, with the dealers and traders broadly being against it (to be expected) and the retailers and consumer-facing brands broadly positive (again to be expected). However as I have witnessed personally both at Tuscon Gem show and on the ground near the Burma/ Thailand border, getting your hands on Burmese bloodstones is easy – just buy them in Bangkok and label them Thailand ruby.

The Two T’s Transparency and traceability are the bedrock of all ethical claims. Without them no serious, intelligent delivery of any ethical claim can be substantiated. So when we are coming to buy gemstones, there are key things, in my experience, to be aware of: • Claims should be verified. An example of this would be regarding the use of the language of fair trade in the gem business. Currently there is no Fairtrade gemstone on the market. In order to claim Fairtrade status certain verifiable benchmarks need to be in place that I summarise as follows: – a public standard that is not owned by any one particular company (is not proprietary). – an Independent third party audit against that public standard

– an audited chain of custody from mine to retail for that product – a consumer label denoting it in the market place – the poor and the marginalised are the primary beneficiaries of the process. Naturally an authenticated fair trade process is more detailed in its delivery than I am able to summarise here, but the above points are good indicators when assessing claims. • Is it legal? Ironically it is a very simple question that is often overlooked. The gemstone industry is full of illegality and informality that often masquerades as friendliness. • Traceable and transparent. As already mentioned the two Ts are foundational in regards to any form of ethical claims given and this is never truer than in the world of gemstones. If a dealer can give you guarantees on export permits or licenses and ‘transparency to source’ then it is a good sign they are reputable. In conclusion, the world of gemstones is a wonderful world, rich in colour as well as romantic locations. It is true that each stone tells its own unique story and, depending which question you ask, the stone will determine what story it tells you.

Four companies I recommend: Rubyfair: www.rubyfair.com An excellent little UK/Tanzanian partnership working in the ruby and sapphire sector. Columbia Gemhouse: http://columbiagemhouse.com A USA-based company with excellent community partnerships in a number of countries, delivering quality stones to the market. Although they apply the language of fair trade to their process, which is not strictly correct, they are in every way one of the world’s leading ethical gemhouses. Nature’s Geometry: www.naturesgeometry.com Brian Cook is a gemmologist and works with a community in Brazil to deliver some of the finest golden rutile quartz around. Gemfields: http://gemfields.co.uk A medium-sized mining operation in Zambia which mines and sells high quality emeralds. Their work in the social and environmental issues is also very good. Greg Valerio www.gregvalerio.com

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support of both UK trade associations, the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG) and the British Jewellers’ Association (BJA). This gives the publication a broader appeal right across the industry for all retailers, suppliers, manufacturers and designers. Editorial includes news and comment from both associations which reinforces The Jeweller’s position as the ‘Voice of the industry’. Now published ten times a year and with a controlled distribution to members of the NAG and BJA, the magazine targets influential industry decision makers. These factors, along with a competitive rate card all keep The Jeweller one step ahead of its rivals and ensure a cost-effective vehicle for advertisers. Contact Ian Francis at CUBE Publishing on 020 7833 5500 or email: ian@cube-uk.com to discuss how The Jeweller can raise your profile in a competitive marketplace. For subscriptions telephone Amanda White at the NAG on +44 (0) 7613 4445 or send an email to her at: thejewellersubs@jewellers-online.org

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The Voice of the Industry 49

| Feature

Watch this space! As the going gets tough… the tough expand their premises and open a new shop, as Belinda Morris discovers at Winsor Bishop in Norwich.

Winsor Bishop is expanding into the premises on the left, guided by MD Sophie Fulford (right)

n some respects the timing might not seem perfect. Winsor Bishop Jewellers in Norwich is about to open a subsidiary business in the form of a franchise shop, as well as start major expansion work in its existing location… and managing director Sophie Fulford is eight and a half months pregnant. Works-wise though, it was now or never. Winsor Bishop has been on the London Street site since 1834 – housed in a listed building the shop glories in its magnificent original fixtures and fittings, which are obviously the perfect backdrop to top end fine jewellery and timepieces. “But it’s very restrictive,” says Fulford, who joined the family firm in 2004 and has taken over from her father Robert Croydon who has retired but remains as chairman. “We’re a 21-strong

issue that Fulford felt that she couldn’t ignore. “We want to work hard to keep the brands that we have,” she explains. A solution to the problem arrived – after what Fulford describes as “a tortuous process” – when the premises next door finally became vacant. It was the perfect opportunity to create the extra space that was crucial to its development. “Had we not done this we could have continued to trade of course – it’s not unusual for brands to have to work within the constraints of listed buildings – but this was a chance to make things even easier, so we grabbed it,” she explains. She also grabbed the outstretched hand of Lloyds Bank, which, having been less than forthcoming when the shop asked for help

“The watch brands in particular are becoming more demanding about their space in the shop…” team and we’ve run out of room. The watch brands in particular are becoming more demanding about their space in the shop and we can’t just rip out old fittings.” Given that sales of watches – like Patek Phillippe, Cartier and Omega – now account for over 60 per cent of Winsor Bishop’s business (two years ago it was closer to 45 per cent) optimum space for them was an

50 The Jeweller November 2010

at the start of the recession, unexpectedly did an about-turn and suggested that they might be ready to lend again. “They ran, re-ran and re-ran the figures, did a sensitivity analysis and then concluded that even if we only achieved 50 per cent of we said we’d do (we were very conservative) it looked good,” Fulford says. By this stage another arm of the shop’s expansion was underway.

“We were aware that Winsor Bishop, as a fine jewellers, can be quite intimidating for some, so we wanted to make ourselves more approachable,” she says. So, in the nearby Chapelfield shopping centre, a premises had been found for a second branch, selling six fashion brands, including Pandora, which had a partner lined up to open a Norwich shop. However, when Pandora realised that Winsor Bishop was ready to move (and the other business wasn’t) the partnership was offered to them – and it couldn’t be refused. “It’s a phenomenal brand – it’s hit the market with such impact,” says Fulford, who has not worked with Pandora until now. “The brand may not be on the crest of the wave for the next ten years – another one is sure to come along – but their collection is much broader than beads: there’s jewellery, watches and soon they’ll be adding fragrances. And it’s a chance for us to engage with new customers.” The 1200 square foot shop is opening on the 24th of November – a month or two ahead of the expected completion of the London Street expansion. Plans for which have moreorless sailed through the various planning and conservation departments, thanks in no small part to a sympathetic scheme drawn up by Giddings Design. “Mark has made sure that it looks and feels like one store, but in [the new space] you’ll know that it’s new, fresh and sleek,” explains Fulford. “Curved glass showcases will go from one side to the other, but slightly modernised versions of the existing Victorian showcases have been created so that with the same carpet running through, it will be one gelled area.” The expansion – 70 per cent more retail and 30 per cent more window space – also means that the shop’s visual merchandising will change. “It will be simpler and more pared down, with one necklace on a bust rather than three for instance,” says Fulford, who explains that the extension will also include a gallery to house a customer-facing service department, as well as silver showcases and low seating for private events. “When it’s finished, the new look Winsor Bishop will create quite a different shopping experience – especially for Norfolk.”

| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

S o n s

Antique JEWELLERY Keeping the Faith The wearing of jewellery can often be as much about showing your preferences, your loyalties and your allegiances as it is about simple physical adornment, and this is especially true of symbols of religious observance. Jo Young looks at the jewellery and artefacts used and worn within the Jewish faith. Gold Mizpah brooch, hallmarked Birmingham 1907

here’s a fabulous joke that the late, great American comedian Bill Hicks used to tell on stage. In it, he none-too-gently teased Christian folk over their penchant for wearing the cross, symbolic as it is of the device on which Christianity’s chosen prophet had the misfortune to end his days. “Seriously though, folks, do you honestly think if Jesus does come back he’s gonna want to see that?” he said, with a suitably sardonic raising of the eyebrow. The truth is, religious people have always chosen to wear symbols of their chosen faith on their person, with varying degrees of intent.

the Star of David, often referred to as the Shield of David or the Magen David. To a modern Western populace, this hexagram symbol immediately identifies the wearer as being of the Jewish faith, as the cross identifies Christians. In fact, it is not even close to being the oldest mark of Judaism, coming into widespread use as it did during the seventeenth century. The origins of the Star of David are basically unknown. However the hexagram is thought to have derived from the medieval protective amulets (known then as now as segulot) worn by many Jewish people from the 11th Century onwards. The first mention of the Shield of David as a religious symbol can be found in Jewish literary documents from the 12th Century. It was in the seventeenth century that the symbol began to be used to represent Jewishness generally. This originated in central Europe, where a Jewish ‘quarter’ (a nice way of putting it) was established, distinguished from the rest of the Christian community around it by a stone marker with the Shield of David on one side and the cross on the other. From there, it began to be used as a shorthand for Judaism in formal political or religious settings, and by the nineteenth century it had been adopted by early Zionists as a symbol of the emerging movement. Interestingly, one of the trigger events for the birth of modern Zionism was the Dreyfus Affair, an infamous political scandal in France in which a Jewish army officer was wrongly convicted of treason and sent to the French penal colony on Devil’s Island. This highlypublicised scandal divided French society and the anti-semitism implicit in Dreyfus’s conviction helped inspire Theodor Herzl, the originator of the Zionist movement.

They range from the relatively innocuous (if, as Hicks suggests, nonetheless brutal) Christian cross or Arabic/Judaic Hamsa hand (more of which later) to the increasingly controversial wearing of the Islamic burqa. Jewellery is one of the main ways in which people display their belief, and in Judaism, there are several symbols or objects that have, over the centuries, lent themselves well to the jewellery world.

Star of David The first and most easily recognisable of these, as far as the layman is concerned, is

All Mizpah jewellery shown is from a private collection belonging to Jean Baker www.pj.baker.btinternet.co.uk/mizpah.htm

52 The Jeweller November 2010

Antique Jewellery | Like many of these types of decorative pieces, the boxes that are used to house the mezuzah can vary hugely in terms of value, and decorative styles. Materials used include base and precious metals, delicate wooden marquetry, stone or ceramics, and decorations usually take the form of verse from the Torah or simple patterns made out in stones or raised metal. However elaborate the design, however, most are made from sturdy materials – usually metals – as they are designed to be affixed outside the house and withstand all weathers.

A mezuzah on a front door

Gold Mizpah locket with portrait

Unfortunately, in a fate shared with the 3000 year old peace symbol the Swastika (or as it is known in Sanskrit, the svastika), the Star of David was put to dubious use by the Nazis who forced Jewish people to wear the symbol on their clothes during the Holocaust. This corruption of what had become a Jewish ‘owned’ symbol of faith during the preceding century was tragic in its own way, but thankfully, the damage to its symbolic meaning has not proved irreparable. Indeed, it formed the centrepiece of the new flag of Israel in 1948, and today, Jewish people routinely wear the Star of David as rings, gold pendants and in other more elaborate jewel-set pieces. Thankfully, its uglier associations faded entirely with time; the same cannot be said for the Swastika which, though an aesthetically rather lovely symbol, suffered so powerful an association with Nazism that it hasn’t yet recovered.

Hand of God/Hamsa The hand of God, otherwise known as hamsa or khamsa, is another extremely popular protective amulet symbol, that is commonly seen in Africa and the Middle East. Mainly worn as jewellery, often in silver filigree, it can be found in art, incorporated into architecture and elsewhere, and is believed to ward off the evil eye.

The Hamsa can be found as either a ‘normal’ four fingered, one thumbed hand, or in a pleasingly symmetrical (if biologically inaccurate) two thumbed version. Probably the most notable point about this symbol is that it illustrates the shared roots of the three principle world religions – it is revered by followers of Christianity, Islam and Judaism. In Islam it is known as the Hand of Fatima, after the daughter of the Prophet Mohammed. Islamic ‘hands’ often feature an eye in their design, or verses of the Quran in Arabic. The popularity of the hand amongst the Jewish population can be dated back to the Phonecians. Sometimes called the Hand of Miriam, after the sister of Moses and Aaron in the Bible, it is believed to represent the five books of the Torah and as jewellery can also contain decorative passages written in Hebrew.

Mezuzah The mezuzah is the name given to a piece of parchment that has been inscribed with verses taken from the Torah. These phrases, written in Hebrew, comprise what is known as the Jewish prayer, Shema Yisrael. This parchment is housed in a decorative case, which is then placed on the doorframe in Jewish homes in order to fulfil what believers interpret as a biblical commandment (or mitzvah) to write the words of the prayer “on the doorposts of your house”. Most Jewish households affix a single mezuzah over the front door, but more observant Jews will have a mezuzah affixed to every door in the home.

Mizpah Jewellery Probably the best known of jewellery ‘families’ to be born from Judaism is what is known as mizpah jewellery. The term mizpah is taken from the first book of the Bible, from a passage that reads, “And mizpah; for he said, The Lord watch between me and thee, when we are absent”. In Hebrew, the word mizpah denotes a ‘watchpost’ and is taken to mean an emotional bond between those who are separated, either geographically or by death. Jewellery is – as it has been for centuries – given to signify that bond, while the word mizpah itself is frequently found on gravestones in Jewish cemeteries. Mizpah carries a gentle, touching sentimentality that extends beyond the purely religious and makes it both collectable and enjoyable to wear and own. Mizpah jewellery enjoyed a peak of popularity during the Victorian era – perhaps unsurprisingly, given Victorian society’s rather gothic enthusiasm for the cult of mourning. Much of the good quality collectable mizpah

Star of David and Hamsa Hand images courtesy of www.silverenchantments.com

The Voice of the Industry 53

| Antique Jewellery Mizpah jewellery created during the Victorian period is now highly collectable, along with traditional mourning jewellery, which was often produced in iron and jet. Much of the finer pieces of mizpah jewellery to come to market are made of gold. These pieces are often brooches, with the mizpah

Diamond buckle ring with hinged segment to show ‘Mizpah’ inside

jewellery found on the market today dates from this time. During wartime, too, for obvious reasons, the practice of giving mizpah jewellery sees a surgence in popularity, and this was particularly true during the Second World War. The giving of mizpah jewellery is one of the longest traditions that exists within the jewellery industry, and it is one that will no doubt be with us for centuries to come. The Victorian era is a particularly interesting one for anyone interested in antique jewellery and its meanings. Society at that time – as covered in The Jeweller’s recent article on ‘mourning jewellery’ – became peculiarly interested in the theme of death and separation, and much of the jewellery that was produced during the period, particularly the latter half of the nineteenth century, became highly personalised and sentimental. The growth in popularity of Mizpah during the period reflects that sentimentality: Mizpah jewellery was not just about giving jewellery to loved ones, but was intended to physically symbolise your being forced apart from those you love, and often this meant separation by death. Of course, death was no distant threat in those days, but was a major cause of ‘separation’ for the Victorians. The industrial revolution brought about a huge social upheaval in which poor people relocated from the countryside to the newly-booming cities, and this shift brought about poverty, disease and early death for many thousands of Britain’s poorer people. On top of this, Queen Victoria herself triggered a trend for all things ‘mourning’ – fashion, accessories, even literature – when she chose to wear nothing but widow’s black after the death of her husband.

54 The Jeweller November 2010

message written across their middle, but pendants were also popular with the Victorians, again made in gold or cheaper base metals. These are now quite collectable too, although you may find that few antique jewellers sell it: mizpah is fairly specialist and those selling it tend to do so as a specialism.

Whittaker’s World How much is a ‘name’ really worth? Let’s be fair! We would all like to think that the name of our own firm is instantly recognisable to loads of people. Such a view is probably deluded – we may have a small but loyal customer base but, unless you spend a fortune on promoting your brand name, your name will probably remain unrecognised and have little value ‘per se’. However, various brand names (such as Rolex, Cartier and Tiffany within our industry) have instant recognition – they also have their own particular styles and products, particularly with watches, that make them instantly recognisable. But when you think about it logically, how can a famous brand name take a simple jewellery product such as a diamond, mount it in a ring or a pair of earrings and charge more for it than an identical diamond in a similar mount from your friendly local manufacturer? It’s all down to ‘brand name recognition’ and the aspiration of many people to own an item by the same manufacturer or brand who supply the celebrities who grace the pages of the ‘glossy social magazines’. This same ‘spin’ filters down into the secondary market. When we are valuing pre-owned jewellery, our valuers still start with identification of the stone, assessing its quality and checking the quality of the metal in which it is mounted. A quick glance at the current ‘Rap’ prices and they have arrived at the estimate. But then the guessing game starts of how much to add on for the very smart box and supporting paperwork from a very up-market brand name. Always assuming the article is actually ‘correct’, there is undoubtedly a significant ‘added value’ in the pre-owned market, as in the ‘new’ market – 30 per cent is almost a minimum starting point and other factors can often make an article achieve prices up to 100 per cent more than the intrinsic parts’ valuation might suggest. So while I try to bolster my wounded pride about the self evident lack of brand name recognition for my own firm’s name, I have to grudgingly admire the skill and investment that some of these companies have devoted to taking a product, such as a basic diamond ring or pair of earrings – which is available to all us – and by adding their name to it have given it ‘added value’. Congratulations!! Stephen Whittaker is MD of Fellows, auctioneers based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter.

Fellows (Est. 1876)

Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches – Thursday 18th November, Thursday 2nd & 16th December • Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 25th November • Silver, Plated Ware, Coins & Medals – Monday 29th November • Costume & Silver Jewellery & Novelties – Monday 29th November A catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post. Online bidding is available at www.the-saleroom.com/fellows For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

Regular |

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Books Jewelry from Nature, by Ruth Peltason (£24.95, Thames & Hudson) This is an exploration of jewellery made from materials derived from plant or animal sources. It covers two hundred years of fine jewellery using amber, coral, horn, ivory, pearls, shells, tortoiseshell and ‘exotica’. The beautiful pieces shown, from makers ranging from Bulgari to Tiffany, prove that important jewellery does not necessarily have to showcase the usual gemstone giants. Cartier and America, by Martin Chapman (£19.99, Prestel) This book marks the one hundred year anniversary of Cartier’s arrival on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan and demonstrates just how

Sales & Exhibitions November Now until 8th January 2011, Dazzle, National Theatre foyer, London Recent graduates will be among the 80+ contemporary jewellery designers exhibiting. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com 21st Nov-8th January 2011, Dazzle, Manchester Town Hall A record number of new designers will be exhibiting at this show, which will be open seven days a week. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com 20th-21st: Design Show, St Georges Hall, Liverpool. Part of the city’s second annual Design Festival, the show will highlight work by around 60 creators of jewellery, accessories, fashion and decorative art. www.liverpooldesignfestival.com

important American customers were (and presumably still are) for the famous Parisian house. Chapman, ex-V&A curator, takes us through the history of Cartier from its birth in 1847 to its conquering of America. Archive images of shops, jewellery, clients (like Gloria Swanson and Grace Kelly) are accompanied by photos of iconic pieces. The Jewels of the Romanovs, by Stefano Papi (£42, Thames & Hudson) A trip to St Petersburg in 1993 led the author, an ex-Sotheby’s and Christie’s jewellery expert, to research the fascinating history and culture of imperial Russia and in particular the court of the Romanovs and their jewels. The result is this incredibly detailed and lavish book that proves that

25th-28th: Made in Clerkenwell, 21 Clerkenwell Green, London An open studio event to showcase all types of craft and design, including jewellery. www.craftcentral.org.uk/madeinclerkenwell 26th-28th: Desire, Guildhall, Winchester Mixed media jewellery and silversmithing show from new as well as established talent. www.desirefair.com December 2nd-5th: Craft in Focus, RHS Wisley Gardens, Woking. A chance to see the work of over 20 jewellery makers. Admission included with the garden entry. www.craftinfocus.com 3rd-5th: East London Design Show, Shoreditch Town Hall, Old Street A Christmas shopping event with makers of jewellery, art, ceramics and fashion from

every jewel tells a story. Old sepia photos show various members of the family wearing particular jewels… and then matched with the jewels themselves. Papi takes us through the golden years and describes the fate of the collection after the Revolution. Stirring stuff. Henkel & Grosse. 100 years of passion, by Vivienne Becker (£45, Arnoldsche Art Publishers) Intense close ups of Dior and Grossé jewellery leads us into this monograph of renowned German costume jewellery house Henkel & Grosse – the company that Christian Dior turned to when looking to produce his own jewellery line. The collaboration lasted fifty years and led to a fantastic array of colour-rich, gemstone encrusted creations both under the Dior label and H&G’s own Grossé brand. Becker traces the company’s 100 year-old history, explores its work and covers the various fashion collaborations.

the UK and abroad. www.eastlondondesignshow.com

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs November 25th-28th: China International, Shanghai Exhibition Centre. Gold, jewellery and gem fair http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions/default.asp?p=&lang=1&sectid =48&subid=148&siteid=17 26th-28th: Kara, Place Vendome, Paris Contemporary jewellery fair for trade and consumer. www.kara-expo.com December 3rd-5th: Mineralien, Hamburg Messe Hall, Germany Around 430 exhibitors from 30 countries showing minerals, fossils, gemstones, crystals and jewellery. www.hamburg-messe.de/mineralien

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Security Update Michael Hoare, CEO of the NAG

Working together to beat crime We have much to learn from the security experiences of others, as Belinda Morris found out at a recent high profile seminar on crime. f, about three weeks ago, you had happened to turn up at 11am at Hayling Island Sailing Club, for a day of messing about in boats, a fairly surreal sight would have confronted you. A handful of besuited gents and a lone female are emerging, blinking and slightly dazed-looking, from a white smoke-filled room off the club’s forecourt. No signs of alarm or panic – actually they are all smiling, even as the dense smoke billows from the door and unfurls around them. So, not an emergency then – but in fact a demonstration of how it would feel to be caught up in one – minus the terror factor of course. Last month The Jeweller – the only trade publication present – was invited to attend the Annual Focus on Robbery and Serious Crime Symposium, hosted by IBP – specialists in security solutions such as tracking devices – and sponsored by the likes of Bandit UK, SmartWater and Insafe. The presentation of how Fog Bandit works and what it’s like to be in a room when the device is activated (impressively debilitating is the short answer to that) was just one unnerving – yet vital – revelation of this eyeopening and informative event.

56 The Jeweller November 2010

Despite the fact that the two-day seminar kicked-off with an introduction to the jewellery business and SaferGems, by NAG CEO Michael Hoare, the focus was not purely on crime in our sector. Delegates were given a snapshot of the security issues of a number of different industries, by some of the most respected and heavy-weight

A few years ago the symposium featured a re-enactment of an armed robbery by an ex-offender. It was so powerful that it motivated me to set up SaferGems.” Nonetheless, on the face of it, there might not be much that a jeweller can glean from the fact that there have been significant drops in losses from cash-in-transit robberies (85-90 per cent in certain areas) or raids on betting shops (40 per cent down in the Met area this year). But that would be missing the point. It’s all about displacement. If the criminal is being thwarted in his attempts to make a dishonest living via corner shops and bookies, he’s going to look for the next likely target. “During my talk I tried to illustrate why jewellers, particularly independents, feel vulnerable to violent crime. Mostly this is to do with displacement issues,” explains Hoare. “For instance, now that CCTV covers many town centres, shopping malls use guards to eject suspects from their private property, and traditional targets like banks and cashin-transit are target-hardened, so robbers are looking for softer targets. “But that’s not all. Relatively speaking, criminals see the rewards for hitting a jeweller as higher and easier to shift through criminal networks. The average convenience store or garage forecourt carries very little cash these days and grabbing a case from a cashin-transit guard will mostly result in the money being damaged beyond use – so the high value of jewellers’ stock looks much more attractive to a thief.” Which is the bad news…

“Maybe the police have stepped back off the high street… so we have to find other ways to help ourselves – the police strategy isn't going to change” industry individuals. And while the nature of the crimes, goods stolen, modus operandi and solutions might vary, any retailer or supplier of jewellery would have found many nuggets of useful information. “As the symposium is retail focussed I always learn a lot from the experience of others,” says Hoare. “It would give the game away if I told you the specifics, but this year I got great ideas from both the petrol forecourt and convenience store operators that can be applied to our sector.

On a much more positive note, the attitudes, approaches and methods taken by the afforementioned industries to successfully combat serious crime, can be adopted by jewellers also. Witness the SaferGems initiative – it might still be in its infancy, but is already proving that working together creates results. “One message that came out of the symposium was that all the good news stories of massive reductions in crime in the sectors concerned, came as a direct result of

Security Update |

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FOR LIVE CCTV FOOTAGE VISIT OUR WEBSITE long-term partnerships and specific initiatives,” confirms one delegate, commercial crime reduction practitioner Alan Townsend. “The message that jewellers need to pick up on is that SaferGems is an embryo crime reduction initiative that has the potential to significantly reduce jewellery crime, but can only reach its full potential with the full support of jewellers!” It’s a question of thinking positively, in the view of Richard Childs, ex-chief constable for Lincolnshire and the chair of the symposium. “Maybe the police have stepped back off the high street,” he said (to an audience that included more than a couple of senior police officers) “so we have to find other ways to help ourselves – the police strategy isn’t going to change. We shouldn’t say ‘there’s nothing we can do’, but use the resources available and get some principles in place. We shouldn’t be gloomy,” he adds, “but dwell on the success stories.” Bandit UK was able to supply one such positive piece of news: a raid on W E Clark and Son in Lewes, East Sussex was thwarted in the early hours of 6th October… thanks to a Fog Bandit installation being

activated within seconds of the window being attacked by the axe-wielding intruder. He fled empty-handed. Another optimistic note was struck at the end of day one by detective superintendent John O’Leary of the Met Police Flying Squad. To illustrate how sectors can work together with the police he explained that thanks to a “good spirit of cooperation” between bookmakers – who, despite it being a cutthroat business, are now coming together to

DS John O’Leary of the Met Police Flying Squad

the key… so initiatives [like SaferGems] have to keep going.” He concluded his talk by mentioning that the Safe Bet Alliance security guideline document is the model for a similarly simple, straightforward and based-on-goodpractice Jewellers’ Personal Safety and Security Guide – which will be available early in the new year. A strategic group comprising SaferGems and a handful of key and top-end jewellers has been established to create a document that will include sections on risk assessment; shop perimeter security; internal security; processes and procedures and management and training. The hope and aim is that security will be built into being a part of the everyday working requirement of a jewellery business. To learn more about SaferGems call: 0845 272 2802 or visit: www.safergems.org.uk

set security standards and intelligence share – detection rate is up 43 per cent in London. The recently established Safe Bet Alliance shows, concludes O’Leary, that “industry has the solutions… and collaborative working is

The Voice of the Industry 57

| Letters

Letters to the Editor

The editor’s postbag this month covers topics from valuation and hallmarking to education and ethically sourced jewellery.

IRVs, valuations and emerging markets would like to congratulate the Institute of Registered Valuers for another positive and informative Loughborough Conference, which was as well organised and sociable as ever. I’d like to thank Sandra Page particularly, for her boundless good natured energy and to Jonathan Lambert for his positive leadership. It was encouraging to see fresh faces and new, very relevant, topics on the intensive workshop programme. The IRV is definitely moving on and embracing the demands and challenges of the 21st century. It was therefore disappointing that during the Open Forum SafeGuard was yet again publicly lambasted by a delegate for its open policy with regard to valuing items bought “on the internet and from TV Shopping channels”. The inference that all items not sold over a traditional shop counter automatically sell at a lower margin or are somehow inferior is misleading in itself. Most highly respected, well established, jewellers are now selling on the internet at High Street prices. TV Shopping Channels such as QVC, have been trading in the UK for over twenty years and charge a sensible consistent, price. Undoubtedly the real challenge for all valuers are items purchased from ‘reverse

auction’ TV channels and ‘eBay’ sites where jewellery can sometimes be bought at exceptionally low prices. These businesses buy small quantities and rely on rapid sell through with a stock turn of less than two weeks. It is better for them to sell some stock through at break-even than hold back a small unsaleable amount. But these lines may never appear at the same low price again and no responsible valuer should automatically value them at what they were sold for, nor any fixed multiple of it.

often cannot be replaced from their original source. Companies recommend SafeGuard because they know their products will be viewed with an unbiased opinion. A very high proportion of jewellery is given as a gift. The customer bringing jewellery for valuation may have no idea where it was bought from nor how much was paid. They want to be sure that if it were lost or stolen the insurance valuation would adequately cover the cost of its replacement, probably from an NAG member! In the best interests of the reputation of the whole jewellery industry SafeGuard will continue to be fair. SafeGuard has no vested interest in the outcome of the valuation as it charges a single item price and has no interest in the replacement value as it does not trade. Its valuers will only ever value what they see, in their expert opinion. This should surely be the approach of all IRV professional valuers. The popularity of the internet and TV shopping channels is being driven by the

IRV members who have not already done so need to consider a proper response to the changes rather than fighting them. In line with IRV guidelines, SafeGuard strives to value every item fairly to determine an average retail replacement price, assessing on merit and quality, no matter what its source. Some retailers regularly refuse to value items they know to have been bought from “internet or TV shopping channels or abroad”, inexplicably turning away potential customers who they know to be in the market to buy jewellery. Others identify the sponsor mark and automatically downgrade the piece without considering how it could be replaced nor at what cost. These items

wide ownership of mobile devices linked to the internet, significant lifestyle changes, and tough economic conditions. It will continue to grow and those who surf, browse and channel hop are also potential customers for NAG members. These routes to market are crucial to the survival of our industry and those IRV members who have not already done so need to consider a proper response to the changes rather than fighting them. A topic for Loughborough 2011 maybe? Marion Wilson, Marketing Director The Assay Office

In praise of JET1 and our Soweto jeweller ere at Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design we have used JET1 for the first time recently – we put one of our team through the course. I was so impressed with it. We haven’t needed these courses in the past as we are mostly metalsmiths and jewellery designers with degrees in these things already. But now we are getting bigger, we decided one of our showroom team, Sarah, who didn’t come from a jewellery background should go onto it. Well, she found it brilliant and got an ‘A’ too – hurrah! She loved the

58 The Jeweller November 2010

experience and finds things she learned there useful every day. We will be sending more of our non-design team on the course and Sarah will soon be starting JET2 shortly. I also wanted to let you know that following an article in your pages about Paul Spurgeon being involved with a jeweller called Nqobile in Soweto, we have been regularly in touch with him and are currently ordering some hand made glass beads from him to use in our designs. It is great to be part of this exciting project. I am now in contact with Paul

Paul Spurgeon and Nqobile at work

and trying to help where I can with a number of projects he is involved with to help people in developing countries. So thank you for the information in the magazine – it is making things happen! Harriet Kelsall, Managing Director Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design Ltd

Letters |

hile I think it important for the Assay Office to continue doing what it does, the problem that I have (dealing with antique and modern pre-owned jewellery) is simply that of descriptions for re-sale. If an item is not hallmarked (and there are loads of these items about) what description should be applied when talking to customers? I have seen many beautiful pieces of jewellery scrapped because they are either foreign and do not bear a hallmark, so old not to have qualified for hallmarking at the time, or under the weight for hallmarking. While we have tried to educate staff and customers to have confidence in hallmarking,

they should not describe something as being gold without a hallmark, even if we have tested it and found it to be so! This ruins sales. Personally I think we ought to say to customers: “At the time the item was made or the country it was made in, hallmarking was not required. We believe it to be approximately 18 carat gold. It is stamped ‘18ct’/‘18K’/‘18c’ but only the assay office can confirm this after testing and assay”. At present this true statement is illegal. The main problem happens for lower value items (9 carat or silver) because it is not cost effective to have them hallmarked. Even better quality or higher carat gold

What would make the Trading Standards Department happy with descriptions when only the Assay Office can legally enable us to call items gold or silver if they have a hallmark? I personally think we should be able to tell the customer the quality of these other goods as described above. I presently make it clear to my staff that

items may never be sold unless we can put an honest description to them and would we want to risk the cost of assay for something foreign which may not easily sell?

Ring resizing can easily cause shallow hallmarks to disappear

Image by Shira Golding

The hassles of hallmarking for the seller of antique and pre-owned jewellery

How can this situation be resolved? What would make the Trading Standards Department happy with descriptions when only the Assay Office can legally enable us to call items gold or silver if they have a hallmark? Even modern/recent platinum items never had a hallmark applied in the first place. Added to this, these modern tiny hallmarks can easily disappear during the course of ring sizing, so do we have to pay again for re-hallmarking and, if so, is that really fair if the hallmark is not deep enough to withstand the simple process? I would be interested to hear from any other reader who feels they have the same problem with descriptions and hallmarking. Trevor Miles. P. T. Miles Jeweller, Newcastle, Staffs.

The Voice of the Industry 59

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

Loughborough Conference 2010 – the low-down Organiser Sandra Page gives an overview of the seminars, speakers, presentations and workshops at this year’s Loughborough Conference where, as always, a good time was had by all. he success of the NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers’ Loughborough Annual Conference for valuers and jewellers continues to grow. This year’s event (our 22nd) took place at its regular venue, Loughborough University over the weekend of Saturday 18th to Monday 20th September, and attracted a record attendance of 182 people, which included 37 per cent of the IRV membership – a fantastic show of support for this major trade attraction. IRV participants gain Continuing Professional Development (CPD) points towards FIRV (Fellow of the Institute of Registered Valuer) status, and we are delighted to report that so many members are striving for this eminent position. In addition to IRVs, many people who simply share this passion for our trade are experiencing the unique occasion that is ‘Loughborough’. Many said that there was “no way they were going to miss what is now part of their life” as a valuer/jeweller. We are very happy that the Conference attracts a regular number of new attendees. Many first-timers from previous years have joined the stalwarts who have been ‘Loughboroughites’ for more years than they care to mention (although they proudly show off their ‘attendance dots’ on their

60 The Jeweller November 2010

lapel badges!). As in previous years many of this year’s ‘Loughborough Virgins’ (identified by green dots on their lapel badges) said how great the event was and how they have missed out by not attending before. As in previous years the jam-packed 18hour+ business schedule included the everpopular programme of workshop sessions, main presentations and discussion sessions. Although we had a little rain this year, this didn’t deter delegates, guest speakers and

supporters of the Conference from enjoying two and a half days to expand their knowledge and share their expertise with others. This year’s programme mirrored the changes we introduced last year. The Conference kicked off on Saturday afternoon with a welcome from Institute chairman, Jonathan Lambert who promised delegates another full and entertaining Conference programme both on a business and social level. Geoff Whitefield then offered an update on his 2009 Conference presentation on insurance replacement and post loss assessments. This was followed by a report on this year’s IRV monitoring exercise by David Callaghan who, along with Peter Buckie and Brian Dunn make up the marking panel. David reported that a new marking system has been introduced which is more objective than previous methods used. He, along with his fellow marking panellists, meet together to assess the work submitted, rather than using the previous system where the work was first monitored and then moderated. A new marking sheet is now used and this was shown and explained to the IRVs present. The new system was used for the IRVs monitored this year and has proved most successful. A full report on the 2010 monitoring exercise was included in the Conference Delegate’s Folder and will be circulated to all IRVs with the next edition of the IRV News Sheet. The next guest speaker on the agenda was Alastair Dickenson from BBC1’s Antiques Roadshow, who entertained delegates with an illustrated presentation entitled Silver Guilt. This lecture included some recent brilliant fakes including an octagonal cream

IRV Review | jug and sugar bowl that sold at auction for £95,000 a few years ago. The presentation also included a stunning seventeenth century gold spoon and fork that sold at auction for £51,000 in 1985. Alastair covered fakes from the nineteenth century through to the present day and explained how and why they were made and how they were detected. After a break for coffee the programme continued with the first of five workshop sessions on offer over the weekend. No less than 18 different classes were available during the event, covering a wide range of topics including probate valuation; what to look out for to help identify pieces of jewellery; valuing jewellery from the 1850s to the 1950s; how additional diamond information on reports can affect their value; current treatments and synthetics of corundum and emerald; visual optics; customised watches; the importance of a letter of transmittal; the best way to make money from your valuation service; how a wrong colour grade can affect the price of a gemstone; how to get the most out of GuildPro valuation software; valuing Asian jewellery; what’s been happening in the auction world and finding out about Quantum Leap valuation software. Saturday evening’s Welcome Reception provided time for delegates to renew friendships and welcome into the fold individuals attending for the first time. Following on from its introduction in 2009, in conjunction with Bransom Retail Systems, we offered a free place at the Conference for one lucky first-timer. All delegates attending their first Loughborough Conference had their names put in the proverbial hat from which one lucky delegate was drawn: Sharon Lee of Winsor Bishop of Norwich.

Sharon Lee who won the refund of her conference fee from Bransom Retail Systems

Following dinner on the first evening, Jonathan Lambert thanked everyone for attending the Conference and promised them two more days of worthwhile activities. The evening continued with an informal Presentation of Awards Ceremony, when certificates were handed out to those IRVs attending who had achieved FIRV status. The recipients were: Peter Buckie, David Fromming, Peter Hering, Michael Inkpen and Shirley Mitchell. Delegate Georgina Deer has also achieved FIRV status but unfortunately was not able to attend the Conference until the following day. The Institute currently has 29 FIRVs. Jonathan then called upon Margaret Wilkins to present the annual David Wilkins Trophy to the individual who has demonstrated outstanding skill, dedication or service in respect of jewellery appraisal and valuation. This year’s winner, Adrian Smith, was a popular choice with all those present. John Benjamin, Nigel Campbell, Roy Egginton, David John Harrold, Alan Hayes, Peter Hering, Michael Inkpen, Steven Jordan, Nicholas Major, Pravin Pattni and Stephen Whittaker were also nominated for the Award.

Finally, Jonathan asked delegates to remember Michael Norman who sadly passed away in May this year. Jonathan was delighted that Michael’s brother Peter and sister Sue, their spouses and Michael’s partner Ann had accepted the Institute’s invitation to attend the dinner in order that they could see first hand just how much Michael meant to everyone present. Both Peter and Sue thanked the Conference for the opportunity to join in an event that meant so much to Michael and welcomed the chance to meet and thank so many people who had shared

Adrian Smith, this year‘s winner of the annual David Wilkins Trophy award

their memories of Michael with them, and to thank them for their support. The whole family was so moved by how much Michael had meant to so many people, and how he had influenced, guided, helped and been a friend to them. Delegates brought their day to a close by visiting the trade stands in the bar where Alan Clark from the Gem-A sold books and instruments and had available for inspection the latest glass-filled/composite rubies which are turning up in increasing numbers. There was a selection of cut stones plus rough (before and after treatment) to inspect. Representatives from the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, Bransom Retail Systems, Quantum Leap and Niton UK Ltd were also present. The dawning of Sunday saw delegates start what turned out to be nearly a ten-hour programme. The programme began with a

The Voice of the Industry 61

| IRV Review few words from IRV Forum nomination candidates FIRVs Rosamond Clayton and Barry Sullivan, both of whom were standing for the vacancy which has become vacant as FIRV Heather McPherson is standing down after serving three-and-a-half years on the Forum. A ballot for the vacancy took place during the Conference. The next part of the programme was a main presentation from David Callaghan entitled Let’s Talk About – Sshhh – You Know What which dealt with the topic of mark-ups that valuers apply when valuing. It was emphasised that the discussions did not relate to retailing mark-ups. A questionnaire had been circulated to NAG members asking a number of questions and a total of 48 had responded. Following a coffee break delegates listened to a main presentation by Peter Buckie on the importance of dialogue. His presentation included the revised taking-in form which was reproduced in the Conference Delegate’s Folder (and which will be circulated to IRVs with the next IRV News Sheet).

The second workshop session of the Conference (the first of three taking place that day) followed this and another after lunch. Following a much-needed coffee break, delegates returned to the main lecture theatre for a presentation by Don Palmieri, the president of Gemological Appraisal Association, Inc and publisher of Gemological Appraisal Association Appraisal Manual (all delegates were given a complimentary copy of his price guide, The Market Monitor). Mr Palmieri introduced delegates to a new portable instrument which can identify numerous metals and gemstones. Although five o’clock had come and gone, delegates still had one last workshop session to attend before they could finally unwind and relax before dinner. Dinner that evening was an informal affair and included an entertaining after dinner

62 The Jeweller November 2010

MIRVs who became FIRVs: (left to right) David Fromming, Peter Buckie, Shirley Mitchell, Peter Hering and Michael Inkpen with Jonathan Lambert (second from right)

speech from Don Palmieri who regaled delegates with stories about his business and life in the States. Having gathered for dinner at 7.30pm, there were still many sitting around tables chatting when the adjoining bar closed at midnight. And this was not necessarily the end of the day as many – allegedly – didn’t actually get to bed until well into Monday! A true testament to the camaraderie of this event. The last day of the Conference began with a brief presentation from Edward Johnson of GIA-London. He reminded delegates of what the GIA can do for them as far as education is concerned and invited them to make full use of the training it offers. Jonathan then announced the results of the IRV Forum ballot. Of the 97 IRVs present 84 voted and Rosamond Clayton received 52 of those votes. The programme continued with a main presentation from legendary gemmologist Alan Hodgkinson who gave delegates a further insight into the wonders of visual optics. After the fifth and final workshop session of Loughbrough 2010, delegates returned to the main lecture theatre for Happy Hour – our usual opportunity to raise subjects for discussion and consideration by the Institute’s Valuations Committee and IRV Forum. Finally, Jonathan thanked everyone for attending the Conference and for continuing to support it year after year and making it into the successful event that it is. He thanked all the guest speakers: those who ran Workshop Sessions – Peter Buckie, David Callaghan, Brian Dunn, Eric Emms, Doug Garrod, Claire Mitchell, Chris Simpson,

Paula Grenney, Alan Hodgkinson, Tracy Jukes, Barbara Leal, Mike McGraw, Heather McPherson, Pravin Pattni, Thom Underwood, Ian Jukes, Terence Watts, Geoff Whitefield, Haywood Milton and Stephen Whittaker. He also thanked those who gave main presentations – Peter Buckie, David Callaghan, Alastair Dickenson, Alan Hodkginson, Don Palmieri and Geoff Whitefield. Finally he personally thanked the members of the Valuations Committee: Avril Plant, Peter

Hering, Pravin Pattni and Jon Tabard, and IRV Forum members: Heather McPherson (for her past contribution), Peter Buckie, Geoff Whitefield, David Callaghan, Michael Ferraro, Alan Hayes and David Holgate, for their support throughout the year, and welcomed Rosamond Clayton to the Forum. He also expressed his grateful thanks to Sandra Page for all her conference-organising skills and dedication. FIRV Shirley Mitchell asked everyone to join her in a round of applause to thank Jonathan for an absolutely marvellous Conference. Jonathan looked forward to welcoming everybody back next year when the Conference will be held again at Loughborough University. The dates will be Saturday 24th to Monday 26th September. The Association is extremely grateful to the following companies/organisations for their continued support of the Conference: Bransom Retail Systems, Fellows Auctioneers, the Gem-A, the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, T H March & Co Ltd and Quantum Leap.

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020 7417 0260 / 0261 32-34 Greville Street, London EC1N 8TB

Diamond Jewellery

Diamond Setters

Diamonds & Gemstones

Gemstones

For Sale Jewellery Studio for sale in the heart of Western Australia’s southwest. • Shows consistently strong growth every year since being established in 2002. • Stock consists of a high quality handmade range supplemented with selected suppliers. • Would suit manufacturing jeweller, husband/wife team. • Well positioned, lucrative business. • Owners looking to semi-retire. • Further information on enquiry. Contact Mary: baroque@westnet.com.au

D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Golfing Holiday Let

Jewellery Manufacturers

Jewellery Repairs

A-Line Jewellery • • • • • • • • •

La Sella Resort – Denia Spain Enjoy a fantastic holiday on the Costa Blanca Golf • Tennis • Horse Riding • Spa Modern 3 bedroom townhouse for hire throughout the year on the splendid 'La Sella Golf' complex, close to the coastal towns of Denia and Javea. For more details visit www.golf-lasella.co.uk or call Toni Steele 07534 892124

Handmade jewellery All setting including channel, pavé etc. Repairs of all kinds Polishing, rhodium and black rhodium 18 carat and platinum ring mounts CAD and laser work undertaken Diamonds and coloured stones supplied Over 30 years experience Postal service

Ground Floor, 22 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8BA Tel: 020 7405 7684 Email: info@a-linejewellery.co.uk

Pearl Restringing

AGARS

Platinum

Precious Stones, Beads and Pearls

Repair Services

Shopfitting

(est. 1946)

• The complete restringing service

to the trade for over 60 years. • Experience, quality and service

at reasonable prices. • Full insurance. All urgent repairs by return. Call David or Stephen at Agars Ltd Port Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PB Tel/fax: 01273 540330 Email: steveagar@hotmail.com

Repairs

Member of the British Jewellers’ Association

bqw rolex specialist

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www.bqwatches.com Signage

Titanium Jewellery

D I S P L AY CABINET I I I I I

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| Regular

The

Last Word This month’s Last Word goes to Harry Levy of Levy Gems, who has prised himself away from the world of diamonds and coloured stones to answer our probing questionnaire.

Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country!)? Any small village with antique and book shops. But otherwise I hate shopping.

How would you describe your personal style? Independent – I don’t like following the crowd. I’m a sceptic and like to work things out for myself. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? I like India. It has history, charm and lots of places to explore. And I also like the food.

to the consuming countries. It would be marvellous to have a thriving manufacturing industry for designers and young people in the trade. Do you know the price of a pint of milk? No. If I shop it all goes straight in the basket. But when I do look at the price of things I’m staggered by how much everything costs. If I want to really startle myself I convert it back to pounds, shillings and pence!

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? Chubby, bald and pleasant – that’s probably according to me and everyone else (although the first two might not be to my face!) Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? I have always been a gemstone dealer, but I wish I had gone into diamonds sooner than I did. I shifted to about 90 per cent diamonds about five or ten years ago. Diamonds are far more universal – a steady business. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? It would be to bring manufacturing back

66 The Jeweller November 2010

Photo: Petra Senders

Personal Profile Harry started his own business around 45 years ago, selling the cheaper end of coloured stones. He also lectured on a part-time basis, but after a few months could not afford to lecture any longer – the stone-selling was going so well. Taking an interest in trade matters at an early stage he was elected onto the board of the London Diamond Bourse and then moved onto national committees such as the BJA and then international committees CIBJO and the World Federation of Diamond Bourses.

To what do you attribute your success? Being open and honest with my customers. Tell us something not many people know about you… I studied philosophy and mathematics and still enjoy the challenges of logical and abstract thought – in work and in play.

If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery business, what career would you have chosen? I would probably have gone into lecturing, which is what I started off as. Quick fire (no deliberating, straight off the top of your head please) • Red or white wine? Red • Football or cricket? (Team?) Cricket (England and Middlesex) • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones • White or yellow metal? Yellow • TV or radio? Television • Bentley or Roller? I wouldn’t drive either – I don’t need to make a statement with my car. But at a push, a Bentley • Delegator or control freak? Delegator • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Chinese/Indian – but I also like fish and chips… when I can find them • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Rolling Stones

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