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Jeweller December 2010

Kevin Coleman tribute Secrets of jewellery photography revealed New directions for store design and display The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Association

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The Voice of The Industry

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Distributor and Service centre for Junghans in the UK and Eire Telephone: 01698 283388 Fax: 01698 285677 Email: jon.vincent@btconnect.com

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Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

D E C

1 0

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

Obituary: Kevin Coleman

Member of the Month

Friends and family pay tribute to the former

BJA News

Security Update

Jeweller Picks

Providing an alternative

Opinion: John Henn

Mary Brittain talks to BJA members who are

BJA: Brits a hit in Paris

Ethical Jeweller

Insurance Matters

Dress up... Trim down...

Antique Jeweller

Store design trends and money saving tips

Education & Training

Legal Jeweller

IRV Review

Photo finish

Notebook

Belinda Morris looks at the fine art of

Appointments

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

chairman of the NAG who passed away in October

finding off-beat ways to reach consumers

for refitting, investigated by Tom Allen

jewellery photography

It’s a love thing

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

Valentine’s Day is just round the corner and BJA members are all heart

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street,

Cover Image Contemporary jewellers – designed and installed by Hallmark Design and Shopfitting Ltd 266 Kings Road, Kingstanding, Birmingham, West Midlands B44 0SA Tel: 0121 355 3333 Fax: 0121 355 5017 Email: info@hallmarkdesign.co.uk Web: www.hallmarkdesign.co.uk

London EC2A 4XG

CUBE Publishing Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500

Tel: 020 7613 4445

ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007 bmorris@colony.co.uk

Publisher: Neil Oakford neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Tom Allen, Mary Brittain,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

John Henn, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

The NAG’s chairman Michael Hoare looks ahead to 2011 and the long-as-your-arm ‘to do’ list facing the Association and its members for the months ahead.

Resolutions ight now we’re in a period of enforced austerity with our coalition government imposing eye-watering cuts to public spending. At such times jewellers need to know they have someone in their corner; putting their point of view; standing up for their rights. That’s where the National Association of Goldsmiths comes in. The NAG has been active since 1894, and right from the off we have used our collective strength to benefit individual members. That’s why we often apply the epithet ‘by the trade for the trade’ to our efforts. We’re not in it for the money; we’re a company limited by guarantee, with a notfor-profit ethos; and our Board of twelve, all elected from the membership, give their time for free. As does Council, which consists of representatives from independents, multiples, buying groups, associations, and regional groups, that meets twice yearly to give its advice and consider important issues. Our October meeting considered the vexed issue of security in the run up to Christmas, and next year will present equally challenging subject matter. At this time of year our thoughts focus on targets for the future, and these have been taxing our Board of late as I have laid before

4 The Jeweller December 2010

them a number of challenging objectives for the coming six months.

Train to Gain side from implementing significant IT changes, our short term goals include realising the potential of JET 1 and Jet 2 in their online versions; promoting the brand new JetPro programme to aspiring business owners and managers; and completing the first draft of the new IRV qualifications. Meanwhile the government’s attention is on the skills gap and plans to close it partly through apprenticeships. We have an established relationship with Skillsmart, the Sector Skills Council for retail, and next on our list of challenges is national accreditation.

and Luncheon on 29th June. Added to that, in the coming months the NAG will be looking into the subjects of ‘succession planning’ and ‘extending working lives’ as part of a series of round table discussions starting in the spring. Other subjects are online learning; security protocols and the fundamentals of online selling.

Talk Talk s our publications n-gauge and The Jeweller grow in authority and frequency, so does our thirst for information and interesting angles on the people, procedures, and opinions that populate our industry grows. While n-gauge concentrates on the legal and technical, and provides advice on compliance issues, The Jeweller has the luxury of space in which to elaborate. This year our co-operation with the BJA has brought forth an interesting new perspective.

Secure Grip ecurity is never far from our minds, particularly now, and NAG takes part in numerous local and national initiatives promoting a secure environment for jewellers. In particular we are part of a MET Police working party looking into security procedures in London. A set of protocols is

“We are especially proud of the work we have done... in establishing SaferGems. It has raised our standing with police forces... gathered substantial data banks and contributed to the arrest of criminals.” The next Council meeting on 10th March has to be accommodated, contents agreed, and speakers engaged; the Education Awards on the same day have to be organised and the hundred or so graduands and supporters informed and marshalled; while we make preparations for the AGM

in development and once agreed we will begin the process of promotion and promulgation throughout the industry. We are especially proud of the work we have done with TH March in establishing SaferGems. It has raised our standing with police forces across the country; gathered

Comment | substantial data banks and contributed to the arrest of criminals. The challenge in the coming months is to spread the net wider; getting more retailers and the wider industry on board.

Our Place in the World lthough only a small island on the fringes of Europe, as a nation we have always punched above our weight on international affairs, and so it is with the jewellery sector. As pivotal members of CIBJO, the International Jewellery Federation, we have been represented on its Board for many years. Soon we will know the identity of the 2011 Congress hosts, and prepare our delegation to present an informed and unified position to our international counterparts. Nomenclature, manufacturing procedures, and standards of testing will jostle with ethics, to top the agenda. No matter where the debate leads, the UK will field high calibre representatives, and this can only be achieved through thorough preparation. Moves are also afoot to establish a group representing the interests of European nations; taking into account specific legislation, and we will be keeping a watchful eye on these developments.

RJC s founder members of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) we will undertake a certification process before the end of 2011 to fulfil our membership obligations. This should not be too onerous because our trading relationships are relatively simple compared to those trading jewellery products; nevertheless, time and thought will be required. It will soon be time to respond to the second round of consultations on RJC’s proposal for a chain of custody, and hopefully we will be able to put forward a unified response to what could be a very far reaching initiative.

The Good Fight ed-tape, and bureaucracy have a stranglehold over business life and pre-election attendees at Council will recall that this single issue gained general approval from the assembled politicians. Now we have the opportunity to hold the new government to account, and through our connections we will be contributing to a review by Lord Young, the Prime Minister’s Enterprise Advisor, into the way government departments interact with and affect small business. Also high on the agenda are the finance and credit facilities available to business through the banks.

Fast Forward o, the road is already mapped; the budget has been thrashed out; the objectives are clear; now we must concentrate on making things happen. Along the way we will have to jump some hurdles, and it wouldn’t be a trade association if we didn’t get the odd spanner thrown in the works, but I know that with your continued support we can have a positive effect on the trading environment for jewellers. Happy Christmas!

The Voice of the Industry 5

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Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“Seeing my jewellery being tried on helps me notice things I need to change. You have to be prepared to learn and to listen...”

re you bored of reading about The Nuptials yet? Hmm, getting that way myself. The flurry of

excitement that I felt on first hearing the news (I like a romantic story) is maybe wearing

off a little now. I've probably over-dosed on the media feeding frenzy – caring about who will make the frock can stretch only so far. But there's no denying the fact that we could use some good news… and this is good news. The Baby Jesus’ birthday notwithstanding, things do seem a little doom-laden at the moment. We need this fillip – there’s nothing like a royal beano of this kind to set the tills ringing,

Page 26

particularly after Christmas when things traditionally go a bit flat, retail- as well as spirit-wise. It’s nice to have something to look forward to – think of the boost to tourism, the potential renewed interest in sapphires (again) and the possible rush of other couples naming the day and going for it in lavish style. This issue of The Jeweller brings further glad tidings, courtesy of jewellery designerretailer Harriet Kelsall who, acting on a feature she read in the magazine earlier this year, is now working with a very deserving, burgeoning Soweto-based jewellery supplier. Ooh the positive power of the press… we couldn’t be more chuffed. Read more on p.41.

“A detailed brief removes ambiguity, but can constrain the creative process; while a total free reign is rarely that…”

The unhelpfully premature arrival of snow (great on Christmas Day, completely pointless in November) has probably dampened things a little on the high street. But on the other hand, doesn't it make you feel festive… just a bit? At time of going to press I’m well on my way to the required one dozen different mince pies for my lucky 2011; I’ve already taken the chill off with glüh wein and a space is being cleared for the tree. Happy Christmas and a very prosperous new year to all our readers from The Jeweller magazine team!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 44

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Cartier is second RJC certified member he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that Cartier, a founding member of the Council, has become certified against the ethical, human rights, social and environmental standards established by the RJC’s Member Certification System. Founded in 1847, the internationally renowned house of luxury, which designs and manufactures exclusive collections of fine jewellery, wristwatches and accessories, has approximately 300 Cartier boutiques worldwide. “The RJC warmly congratulates Cartier on becoming the second RJC Certified Member. [This] results from a successful verification assessment conducted by SGS, a highly regarded and international auditing company accredited by RJC in July 2010. Cartier now occupies a unique position to act as a role model within the international jewellery industry,” says Michael Rae, RJC’s Chief Executive Officer. All Commercial Members of the RJC have committed to be audited by accredited, third party auditors to verify the company’s conformance with the RJC’s Code of Practices and become certified within two years of joining the RJC. “Since 1847, the Cartier Maison has embodied a tradition of excellence, a tradition which has become our duty,” says Bernard Fornas, Cartier’s President

and CEO. “This duty of excellence… also extends to the way in which we conduct our activities – ethically, socially, and environmentally. This is what drove our decision to co-found the RJC in 2005. We believe the RJC standard is a powerful and effective way to drive positive change through the jewellery supply chain from mining all the way to retail.” The news comes as two important pieces of ‘pioneering’ Cartier jewellery come up for auction at Bonhams in London this month. This Art Deco necklace created in 1936 was noted not only for its many cuts of diamonds sitting on pierced geometric plaques but also for the use of the rare metal platinum. The signed necklace is estimated to fetch between £100,000 and £150,000.

Graff buys more top diamonds ust days after the historical purchase of the world’s ‘finest pink diamond’, the ‘Graff Pink’, Laurence Graff has announced the acquisition of two more important stones. The 196 carat and 184 carat rough diamonds were successfully acquired for a total of $22,736,360 during a sealed-bid tender in Antwerp on 25th November. The Letšeng mine, based in the Maluti Mountains in Lesotho, is a mine of growing significance, having produced three of the world’s top 20 diamonds ever discovered. This is Graff’s fifth significant purchase of a notable Letšeng diamond in recent years and follows other notable stones such as the 603 carat ‘Lesotho Promise’, the 493 carat ‘Letšeng Legacy’ and the most recent acquisition – the 478 carat ‘Light of Letšeng’, which was then polished to reveal the Graff Constellation, the world’s first round brilliant flawless diamond to exceed 100 carats. “We are delighted with the successful acquisition of these two major stones. This purchase further demonstrates our continuing investment in the industry and the world’s finest diamonds. We look forward to the challenge of cutting and polishing these stones and releasing their full potential,” says Graff, founder and chairman of Graff Diamonds Holdings.

8 The Jeweller December 2010

Speakers for GIA symposium he Gemological Institute of America has announced the six key speakers for the research track of Symposium 2011 (29th-30th May, 2011) at Carlsbad. Dr. Mark Newton, University of Warwick, U.K. – treated diamond detection; Dr. Gaston Giuliani, French Center for Petrographic and Geochemical Research – the geology of coloured stone deposits; Dr. Thomas Stachel, University of Alberta – Canadian diamond geology; Dr. Ahmadjan Abduriyim, Tokyo’s Gemmological Association of All Japan-Zenhokyo – geographic origin determination; Ken Scarratt, MD of GIA Southeast Asia – pearl identification and Dr. George Rossman, California Institute of Technology – advanced gem characterisation. For details email: symposium2011@gia.edu

New website for Elodie lodie, the sterling silver jewellery company has relaunched its website, the timing of which coincides with its new brand image. The focus is on a visually aspirational site that reflects the product offering and the new website has been updated to provide existing and new customers an easy-to-navigate, fully integrated service with a faster site speed. The relaunched website includes an easy to use categorised product page, allowing the customer to click on to Elodie’s popular collections, greatly diminishing the amount of time spent browsing. In addition to the new ‘About Us’ section which defines the brand’s DNA, there is a fully functioning stockist page, which is key to the ongoing development of the brand and highlights its continued support to its network of stockists.

Industry News |

Ute Decker launches Fairtrade gold collection thical jeweller Ute Decker will reveal a Fairtrade gold collection on Valentine’s Day 2011, at the launch of the world’s first independently certified ethical gold. Known for her minimalist sculptural jewellery in recycled silver and bio-resin, Decker will be one of the first jewellers worldwide to launch a collection in Fairtrade Eco gold, mined under Fairtrade standards, and without the use of toxic chemicals. The Fairtrade Foundation and Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) have collaborated on a joint venture to introduce the world’s first independent ethical certification system for gold. “I am proud to support small scale miners, their rights, livelihoods and our environment,” says Decker. “Fifteen per cent of the Fairtrade premium will directly benefit the artisanal mining communities; paying for a midwife, schools and clean water. I already have several pre-orders for pieces in Fairtrade gold; my clients want to be part of this historical event, giving expression to their values.” Ute Decker’s one-off and small series sculptural jewellery works in Fairtrade gold will feature the Fairtrade and Fairmined ‘jewel-stamp’ next to the traditional hallmarking, to guarantee the gold’s provenance in each piece.

RJC advises diamond vigilance he Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) is advising its members to be vigilant about trading diamonds that do not carry the full authority of the Kimberley Process. The RJC points out that until consensus is reached, trade in Marange diamonds can only take place in compliance with the Kimberley Process’ Joint Work Plan agreed to in June 2010. The RJC Code of Practices includes four provisions requiring conformance with the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) for rough diamonds. As part of the RJC Certification process, RJC members undergo independent, third party auditing of their relevant business practices to evidence their conformance with the RJC’s Code of Practices. Full compliance with the KPCS is vital for RJC members and for the entire jewellery industry. The RJC is continuing consultations with stakeholders on the development of a RJC Chainof-Custody certification standard for the diamond, gold and platinum jewellery supply chains. RJC Chain-of-Custody certification would be voluntary and complementary to the RJC’s existing independent third party certification of its members’ responsible business practices. A discussion paper containing a draft Chain-of-Custody Standard is currently open for public comment until 31 January, 2011. For more information about the RJC Chain-of-Custody certification initiative visit the website at: www.responsiblejewellery.com/chain-of-custody.html

S N I P P E T S Sparkling expansion for Stoner Group Bespoke jewellers The Stoner Group has expanded into new state-of-the-art premises in Harrogate, North Yorkshire. The niche London-style boutique will specialise in diamond jewellery incorporating the finest D and E coloured diamonds, as well as Rolex watches. The former head designer at the Goldsmith chain, Georgio Gerakio, will join MD Chris Stoner in providing design and consultation services to clients from across the UK. Chris Stoner, a gemmologist and diamond grader, who is carrying on the family dynasty of his father, Phillip Stoner. said: “Our new store will focus on jewellery we have designed and created ourselves. We are specialising in the rarest diamonds to create unique pieces of jewellery which will rival Bond Street jewellers.” Tateossian winners announced Christie’s in London last month saw the announcement of the winners of the Tateossian jewellery design competition. Elizaveta Gnatchenko and Grace Cross are the top two of the six Central Saint Martins graduates tasked with designing a small capsule collection for Tateossian and whose winning collections will be available exclusively at Tateossian stores in 2011. The competition forms part of the company’s 20 year anniversary celebrations. Judges for the prize included David Furnish, Vogue Jewellery Editor Carol Woolton, GQ Editor Dylan Jones and The Sunday Times columnist AA Gill.

Assay Office runs consumer hallmarking awareness campaign uring December The Birmingham Assay Office is running a consumer hallmarking campaign in the Midlands and it will also feature a hallmarking awareness campaign in association with Smooth Radio 105.7FM. The campaign will aim to increase consumer understanding of the value of hallmarking. It will explain that when buying fine jewellery this festive season – “make sure you ask to see the hallmarks – they are your guarantee of the precious metal content”. There must be at least three different marks to be a full legal UK hallmark. During this trading period, all divisions of the Birmingham Assay Office will be working until 1pm on Friday 24th December, while the Laboratory will work until close of business on 23rd December. The Office will reopen on 4th January, 2011.

One of the two winners, Elizaveta Gnatchenko with (from left) Pedro Girao, chairman of Christie’s European Advisory Board, David Furnish and Robert Tateossian

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

RCA Scholarship 2010 awarded he Goldsmiths’ Company has chosen silversmith, Jennifer Grey, a graduate of Glasgow School of Art, to be the recipient of its first Royal College of Art Scholarship. The scholarship, which will be awarded every two years, forms part of the Company’s ongoing support for the craft and industry. The Company has enjoyed a long relationship with the RCA and for more than 10 years has provided a bursary for a promising silversmithing student at the College to assist them with working in precious materials and alleviate the financial burden this can cause during their postgraduate studies. Peter Taylor, director of Technology and Training, said: “The Company is constantly striving to improve its support for excellence in craftsmanship and design and it recognises that today’s students have to cope with many burdens during their studies – particularly financial ones. The Company’s new RCA Scholarship is designed to alleviate any such burdens by providing one RCA postgraduate student with not only financial help but also mentoring support over the two years of their course.” As such Jennifer Grey has to date been granted £2,000 to help with living costs, a £2,000 precious metal bursary and the RCA has received a cheque for £2,500 to go towards her tuition fees. The criteria for this new scholarship are that it “be awarded to an individual who demonstrates outstanding practical ability and potential in craftsmanship and design and needs financial support during their time at the Royal College of Art”. In addition the selection panel was looking for an outstanding silversmith with an ambition to pursue their craft to the highest level and a commitment to a career in the industry.

Silversmith award

he Goldsmiths’ Company’s annual Young Designer Silversmith Award competition has been won this year by Ben Ryan (22) of Welwyn Garden City, who at the time of being chosen was a post-graduate student at Bishopsland Educational Trust. He was guided through the process of creating his winning design – a presentation dish for mussels – by silversmiths Carl Padgham and Andrew Putland of Puckley in Kent, the £4,000 prize going towards the cost of translating the design into silver. The finished piece will be presented by the Goldsmith’s Company to an appropriate national museum. Ryan also receives £500 for himself.

Diamond benefit raises $1million combination of private pledges, ticket sales and live auction led to a total of $1million raised for the Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) charity, held at the Banqueting Hall in London last month. The auction, consisting of diamond jewellery, travel packages and celebrity experiences and MC’d by Tim Dabson of the Diamond Trading Company raised $500,000. Among the attendees at the gala dinner evening were Varda Shine, CEO of DTC; Nicky Oppenheimer, chairman of De Beers; Russell Simmons, founder of DEF and Anna Martin, MD of Diamond Jewellery for Standard Chartered. DEF’s mission is to raise funds to go towards supporting education initiatives in the African communities around diamond mines.

10 The Jeweller December 2010

S N I P P E T S Royal Wedding guests can rent jewels from Earnest Jones he ‘Golden Ticket’ winners attending the Royal Wedding next April needn’t worry about standing up to worldwide scrutiny – Ernest Jones is to offer a special ‘Red Carpet Rocks’ rental service to the privileged hundred. The guests will be able to take advantage of a celebrity-style makeover from a central London salon and choose from a roomful of precious gems to wear on the day, courtesy of the jeweller. With jewels from £20 to £11,000 to choose from, including a stunning array of chocolate-coloured diamonds, the guests will be invited to a London showroom and given styling assistance. A deposit will be required to ensure safety of the jewellery and the guests will be given the option of purchasing the pieces at a reduced rate after the event.

New generation takes over at Talbots Group A new generation of siblings has taken over the jewellery display and packaging company Talbots Group. Julie Fowler-Drake, Rosalind and Andrew Fowler are following in the footsteps of their father who first took on and built up Talbots over 40 years ago. An exciting future with an emphasis on new design and fresh ideas is promised. Between the three of them, they already have various business and creative success stories under their belts: Julie, now managing director, previously created revolutionary kids clothing company Brights and Stripes. Andrew set up creative advertising agency Brothers and Sisters three years ago. With clients including adidas and Sky, this cutting edge business has relaunched Talbots Group with a new catalogue and website, and is planning to release fresh thinking on how great packaging can enhance the experience of receiving jewellery as a gift. Family-run business Talbots has also recently re-branded itself as ‘Talbots Group’ (Talbots Birmingham Ltd, Boxpads, and Pickering and Mayell). As well as jewellery boxes, the company provides matching bags, jewellery display and other sundries, many of which are made to order.

| Industry News

Jet1 Project Award winner announced he NAG and Bransom have announced the recipient of October’s Bransom JET 1 Project Award. Sarah Berkeley of Pravins in Bristol will receive a certificate and be invited to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall. Berkeley’s tutor, Anne Bray comments: “I think Sarah should be well rewarded for her good and very prompt assignments. She had only been in the trade for seven months when she enrolled in April. Her assignments were received absolutely on time every month in spite of having a house move during her course.” The project’s moderator found that “Sarah had produced an answer that has the ‘Wow factor’; each section has been given a full detailed coverage of the subject and is well illustrated. The most impressive part of the answer is contained in the last 10 pages which detail the work that may be required to the diamond ring. Very sound practical possibilities are put forward for the repair or remake into another piece of jewellery and the hand-drawn illustrations in this section of the project are amazing. Sarah really does deserve to be the winner of the JET 1 Project Award for October 2010.” “It is absolutely brilliant to win the award, and gives me a real sense of achievement,” says Berkeley. “It has given me confidence to continue within the industry. Pravins is a great family run business, and they have really helped me become part of their team. They’ve been very supportive, and I’d like to thank them all. I’d also like to thank tutor Anne Bray for helping me through, and I look forward to taking the JET 2 course in the near future.” Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses, go to www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go to: www.bransom.co.uk

Christmas brings boost to high street sales says CBI he volume of sales on the high street was higher in November than a year ago, for the fifth consecutive month, as shoppers started gearing up for Christmas. The CBI’s latest quarterly Distributive Trades survey revealed that 55 per cent of retailers saw the volume of sales rise in the two weeks to November 10th, while 13 per cent said they fell. Sales grew most strongly in November for grocers and clothing retailers and looking ahead to the crucial pre-Christmas period, retailers expect strong sales volume growth to continue in December (+45 per cent), and a net 11 per cent of retailers expect the overall business situation to improve over the next three months. Ian McCafferty, CBI Chief Economic Adviser, said: “Looking into the New Year, retail sales growth may lose some of its sparkle, as consumers rein in spending after Christmas. Confidence remains fragile, VAT is rising in January, and a combination of weak wage growth and high inflation is eating into household incomes.”

12 The Jeweller December 2010

S N I P P E T S Blacklock jewellery auction In celebration of its March web-based relaunch, fine English jeweller Blacklock Jewellery of Sunderland, is holding an online closed tender auction for an item of Blacklock jewellery. A one-off piece from the Xanadu collection has been created, featuring 18ct white gold tendrils with a creamy pink South Seas pearl at its centre. The auction, held in collaboration with the Macmillan Cancer Support charity, commences at 12pm on the 7th of December and closes a week later at 12pm on the 14th of December. “It feels appropriate to celebrate our first Christmas since relaunch by teaming up with such a great cause to give something back. It gives our loyal customers and fans the chance to buy a piece of our fine jewellery at a price that they want to pay,” says Chris Blacklock. Four star dining at Lumbers 250 guests were entertained over three nights last month by Leicester jewellers Lumbers as its boutique was transformed into a Michelin Star restaurant. The novel concept allowed loyal clients of the jeweller to enjoy a sumptuous four-course meal, preview the latest jewellery from around the world and be entertained by X Factor and Eurovision star Andy Abraham. The opulent, fine dining experience included a champagne reception courtesy of Henriot, followed by a four course gourmet meal provided by the Finesse Collection, a luxurious East Midlands Hotel group. While guests dined they were able to view jewellery from brands such as Breitling, Chopard, Breguet, Bulgari, Mont Blanc and a selection of exclusive yellow diamonds.

| NAG News

Kevin Coleman Chairman of the NAG (1994-1996) Kevin Coleman, a former chairman of the National Association of Goldsmiths, who died aged 64 in October, is remembered here for his passion for life and the industry, for his dedication, his humour and his irrepressible, independent spirit.

A wonderful dear friend and colleague for 30 years by Jack Murphy first met Kevin at the NAG Conference in Paris 1981. It was Kevin’s first conference and apart from the craic over a few drinks in the bar during the event, we had a ball at the ‘De Beers – Intergold River Seine Cruise Dinner Evening. It was clear from the outset that Kevin enjoyed life and shared my belief that if you worked hard you were entitled to enjoy yourself at the same pace. While this was his first Conference it was by far not his last; we had fun at each. But Conference was not the only event we supported – it seemed no matter what was on in the trade the pair of us were there. Like ‘two peas in a pod’ we turned up again and again, roping in the likes of Bridget O’Hagan, Robert Vander Woerd, Aidan Farrell, Eric Smyth etc. No matter what the event we always found a fun angle and got the banter going. Truely we didn’t need an excuse to get together; people reckoned we would turn up if someone was opening a tin of beans!

14 The Jeweller December 2010

I was delighted in 1983 when Kevin joined me on the NAG council and we exchanged many ideas of how we would like to see the NAG be at the forefront and oversee radical changes that were crying out to be made in the retail jewellery sector. It is no secret that both of us could get more than a little frustrated at times and we were not behind the door saying so. Both of us were first generation jewellers and our views on how the trade was changing was somewhat different than the norm at the time, so you can imagine the craic we had discussing what we should do to change policy. In the early 80s John Bischoff, a colleague from his Timex days approached Kevin to become a director and chairman of a new buying group he was forming: ‘Independent Jewellers’. Kevin knew that I had formed a ‘wholesale’ company to get round the problems we had buying from source so he convinced John that I should be involved

and so another chapter with Kevin came about. I had been part of the NAG group that travelled to the USA in 1981 on a fact-finding mission which had been set up with great help with the then CEO of Jewellers of America, Mike Roman. Mike, Kevin and I struck up a great friendship and when I told Mike about the new buying group he advised that we should meet a friend of his in the USA Carat Club – Bill Roberts. Bill was owner and CEO of the biggest buying group in the USA, the IJO. With the help of Mike this meeting was arranged and not only did we receive some great ideas to add to the benefits of our ‘Independent Jewellers’ members, Bill became a fantastic pal and Kevin and I enjoyed many very happy trips to the USA staying with Bill at his amazing home in Westport, Connecticut and attending their buying meetings and conferences. Kevin and I also used to fly to Antwerp to team up with Bill when he brought groups of his members to buy diamonds; these opened up more contacts and new friends and more trips for us both to enjoy together. Joining Kevin on the Business Service Committee we set about sharing our experiences from the USA. As the three day NAG Conferences were losing their appeal Kevin and I put forward the idea of having one day events. We looked at what we believed would interest and draw members: good speakers with interesting subjects, plus five minute presentations from fellow jewellers. Speakers were briefed that we wanted action packed content… and they delivered. The blend of speakers Kevin and

NAG News | I had heard in the States with those from the British Isles, plus our fellow jewellers were a hit and we had great fun over a ten year period putting these events together and made many great friends among the jewellers who supported them. The ‘icing on the cake’ was without doubt the one we held in New York as part of the NAG Centenary year with Kevin as Centenary Chairman. Kevin and I were fellow Rotarians and visited each other’s club. We invited a number of the St Neots members to Newry for a visit and twenty years later these annual trips still take place. Four clubs are now involved: Newry and St Neots plus Dundalk in the Republic of Ireland and Tournai from Belgium. Each year we visit a different country in rotation, England, Belgium and Ireland. Kevin will be sadly missed by all who have enjoyed his company on these trips over the years. For Kevin’s 50th birthday I presented him with a crystal spirit decanter and had it engraved with over three dozen ‘one liners’ to remind him of some of the fantastic trips and events we had enjoyed together over the years. He would always bring it out whenever I visited and we would sit and giggle like kids remembering those marvellous memories and amazing characters we were lucky to meet.

Among the many things we enjoyed was the Morecambe & Wise Show and we used to have a laugh about some of their sketches – like ‘playing all the right notes but not necessarily in the right order’. Bring Me Sunshine was always one of those songs we would break into now and again and at the end of those One Day Conferences we would always do that silly dance of Eric and Ernie’s, singing Bring Me Sunshine and having a real good laugh. We used to joke that we would like to be carried out of the church for the last time to

this refrain and I passed on this fact to Pattie and the girls. At his funeral Kevin’s energy for life and enjoyment throughout the years was remembered with the rendering of Bring Me Sunshine creating a little smile at a time of such sadness and loss. I’m really going to miss Kevin; I don’t think a week went by over the last thirty years that we did not chat on the phone. It used to be about ideas we had for the ‘Business Service Committee’ or subjects for his very famous Coleman’s Column in British Jeweller and later in this magazine. Lately it may have been a chat about a new supplier, a crib about an unreasonable customer, or about the football results over the weekend. Whatever the subject there would always have been a few laughs and lots of slagging. I always looked forward to those calls; hearing how his girls were taking over so much of the day to day hassle for him and new ideas they had planned. It’s hard to believe I will not enjoy those calls ever again – but I have the wonderful memories to look back on; memories of a wonderful friend whom I shared so many very happy events with over the last thirty years. “He brought us sunshine with his smile, brought us laughter all the while…”

My eulogy to Kevin written and read at his funeral by his daughter Becky y father was one of the most interesting, fun, articulate, courageous and passionate people you could hope to meet. He was a veritable fount of knowledge as he avidly read a whole kaleidoscope of material which meant there was barely a subject you could throw at him that he wouldn't be able to comment on. I should know – I tried, and failed, on many an occasion to catch him out. This is one of the factors that made him such a wonderful father – there wasn't a situation we girls ever threw at him that he couldn’t sort out. Once he’d grabbed his pen and paper and “put all the factors into the equation’ a solution was never far away. I loved him so much because he adored life. Never again will we meet a man with so much to live for who so simply adored life and its variety of experiences. He thrived on change. He said himself that the only problem with life was ‘pace’ – he could never get things to move quick enough. He was always saying “we have to move quicker

Becky – there's so much to do”. This used to drive me a little crazy – the fact that he was never satisfied, always wanted more. But it made me a better person because it was contagious – he made you want to expand your own boundaries with him. I loved his laugh – and, boy, did he love to laugh! We all have such happy, often hilarious memories of all the times we spent together as a family. And though he was a constant wind-up merchant (mainly at mum’s expense) his sharp wit always made sure we had a great time. His love of family was at the heart of everything he did. He strove to be a success – with no help from anyone. At the age of 19 he set out on his own, very chartered course to achieve many goals. Success to him meant freedom – the freedom to achieve more of his goals. He strove and he strove, and his passion and hard work produced a fabulous company that I’m delighted and honoured to be part of.

He was passionate about Baker Brothers, and he quite simply loved his job. He often said he was dealing in the best aspect of people’s lives – the celebration of love – and this man loved his diamonds! His career was very diverse and on his journey he had a wonderful life and met some fascinating people. I will not dwell on the cancer, because of my hate of it, and I feel very sad that after such an unbelievable effort of sheer will power that he didn't slay the beast. It was not for want of trying – nine years ago he was given six months to live, but that only made him more determined to prove them wrong. The only aspect of his illness I will mention is that my mother surpassed herself on every possible level in how she cared for him and rallied him on. She is a remarkable woman – which she would have to be to live for 42 years with such a complex man. He loved her with all his heart – they truly were kindred spirits.

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

A tribute to the late Kevin Coleman by David J. Callaghan FGA t is never easy to remember when you first met someone and particularly so when, however seldom you meet, when you do meet again you seem to pick up where you left off from the last occasion. This is a rather long winded way of saying that I don’t remember when I first met Kevin but it is likely that it was at the NAG’s Paris Conference of 1981. By then I was well on my way to becoming one of ‘yesterday’s men’ having taken up my place on the ‘back benches’ of the NAG Council following my chairmanship of the Association in the year 1976-78. However it was clear from the outset that Kevin and I would ‘get along’ and that we certainly did. One aspect of Kevin’s personality I shall always recall is that the sun always seemed to be shining when you met him. So much so that the immediate impression was that he would be always joking and that there would be no need to take him seriously. How wrong can you be? Others I am sure will pay tribute to his enduring work on the Business Services Committee of the NAG when he was in his prime, but I was not in the picture really in those years.

16 The Jeweller December 2010

I know however that Kevin had the ability, or was it simply the knack, of catching people off their guard and some found that uncomfortable. Such an attribute – for that is what I believe it to be – makes me think of the word ‘maverick’ and so I checked its meaning in the OED. I was correct in my thinking, for the definition

there says ‘an unorthodox or independentminded person’ and so, yes, to me Kevin was a maverick. Looking back over the years I am disappointed that I didn’t have the chance to work closely with Kevin – or perhaps it is just as well for harmony! Others knew him much better than I did and in reading Jack Murphy’s moving and very personal tribute I realise that I missed a lot. Kevin was kind enough to ask me to speak at the NAG’s Centenary Conference – where my fee was agreed to be a Mars bar! – and afterwards wrote a very generous note of thanks in the centenary booklet. It was a memorable occasion. In that booklet there is a wonderful photograph of Kevin as incoming NAG chairman and I think it really shows you the man, smiling as usual. This year has not been kind to the NAG as we have lost yet another good friend to illness: Edward Wain, Michael Norman and now Kevin. The NAG has been enriched by their dedication and hard work for the trade and none more so than Kevin. So another chapter has closed and in adding my thanks to those of others I recall yet again the words written long ago: If, of all words of tongue and pen the saddest are “it might have been.” More sad are these we daily see: it is, but hadn’t ought to be.

NAG News |

Member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Harshita Deolia talks to Catherine Best, an award-winning designer-maker based in the Channel Islands. With unique studios based in a converted mill in Guernsey and in a windmill in Jersey, they are the perfect setting for customers to see how her creations are a fusion of traditional workmanship and contemporary designs. Tell us a bit about your business… How did you go from woodwork in your father’s shop to making jewellery? I came from a family who were very focussed on running their own businesses and my father refused to let any of his children go to university as he thought it was a bit of a waste of time. Over twenty years ago many people of my parents’ generation felt the same thing about university and I was not eligible for a grant. This meant that I had to be very persuasive in coming up with a plausible idea for a career path, that would result in a lucrative business. At the time, making jewellery was just a thought, it wasn’t as well known as a career path as it is today. I did an evening class and absolutely fell in love with it from the first time I touched a piece of metal. Your work features a lot of unusual and coloured gemstones. Do you create mainly one-off pieces? We have a huge amount of one-off pieces. We’re based on a small island and the last thing you want is to turn up to a party where people are wearing the same as you. It’s lovely working with the different gemstones; each one is unique. We also have the limited edition line which runs for

one or two years. Very often people don’t realise it’s there the first year, so it tends to take off in the second year. For this range we’d only make about a hundred pieces maximum. The third collection is the Catherine Best Signature range which includes Love for Life (which relates to my father who passed away) as well as Starburst and the CB engagement and wedding rings. Although it does evolve over the years, jewellery from this range will always be available. What’s your favourite gemstone and why? I would probably say tanzanite. It’s been very good to me in my lifetime. I remember I went out of my way to buy my first piece. I then bought my second… and then the third… I was one of few jewellery designers using this stone at the time. I absolutely love the depth and the colour – there’s something very spiritual about it. What is your biggest inspiration when designing a piece of jewellery? Life – everything that’s natural. From the flowers and trees to the sky and the sea… everything that just exists. I suppose to an extent people can be very inspirational too. I’m very much a ‘people person’.

I was one of few jewellery designers using this stone at the time. I absolutely love the depth and the colour – there’s something very spiritual about it. The studios are based in really interesting buildings… Both mills are so beautiful. They are made from the most amazing local granite and are steeped in history. I love the fact there are no sharp edges to the walls at the mills; they have a very natural form.

Can you share a story with our readers about memorable customers? We had a gentleman call up one day saying that he’d inherited a lot of jewellery from his mother, but that his wife didn’t really like it. He’d been into the studio before and purchased a few pieces, but this time he wanted to know if we could redesign the jewellery. I said to him that he should send it to us and we’d have a look at it and see what we could do. He was quite certain he didn’t want to send it, and I was trying to persuade him that it was quite safe to post. After the third phone call I really couldn’t understand why he didn’t want to post the jewellery to us and at no point did he let on what the jewellery looked like. He decided to visit us in person and he brought this big chest of jewellery with him… inside were pieces that had 15ct rubies and 10ct diamonds… It was unreal. There was so much of it that it took me months to design. We made some phenomenal pieces. I can now see why he was reluctant to send it by post! If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month please email Harshita@jewellers-online.org.

The Voice of the Industry 17

| BJA News

A royal opportunity missed he forthcoming royal wedding has undoubtedly brought some good news into an otherwise pretty bleak world picture. But as pictures of Princess Diana’s ring on Kate’s Mike Hughes, finger whizzed around the chairman of the BJA world to grace front pages everywhere, I did feel an element of regret on behalf of our industry, but fully understand the sentiment behind the gifting. The ring is undoubtedly beautiful (in a conservative, Crown Jewels sort of way), but it is hardly cutting edge and it certainly does not represent the vibrant, fashionable jewellery for which Britain and many members of this Association are rightly becoming increasingly well-known. It has also all been seen before. The hoo-ha about ‘the’ dress on the other hand has only just begun. The media is crammed with speculation about which hot,

young British designer, like the Emanuels before them, will make their name and quite possibly their fortune by being the chosen one. This story is going to run for months and the ultimate dress will undoubtedly set global fashion trends for far longer than that. The ring however is already yesterday’s news. In fact I would like to bet that there are jewellers countrywide reading this piece who still have the look-alike pieces they commissioned the first time round and failed to sell lurking in their stock cupboard. Just imagine how different things would have been if Prince William had commissioned one of the rising stars of British jewellery design to create a new ring for his soon-to-be princess. What if the design they chose had employed cutting-edge techniques not normally seen in the average jewellery shop? What if the ring looked completely unlike a traditional engagement ring? Or incorporated a quirky modern material or unusual stone?

Any one of these options, let alone all of them, would have got people talking and brought jewellery straight to the forefront of the popular consciousness. More importantly it would also have set tills ringing as brides-tobe everywhere got a peek at just how great contemporary British jewellery design can be. Perhaps it isn’t too late. Rather than opting for a plain Welsh gold band like Di, maybe Kate will cut a dash with a wedding ring for 2011. However if that is to happen, we the industry had better start shouting the case from the rooftops for the new, the exciting and the different. Are there any aspiring designers out there looking for a commission? We need to show, not just Kate but women everywhere, that it’s not just the fashion industry that can set the trend and get tongues wagging.

Free employment and Health & Safety law seminar for BJA members in January eeping up with latest stringent regulations with regard to both employment law and health and safety issues can be a full-time job and the penalties for noncompliance, or for tribunal claims, can be devastating. To assist its members, both large and small, to ensure that they are fully compliant, the BJA has been negotiating with the health and safety and employment expert Peninsula to give members access to its services at a discounted rate. A free introductory seminar is to be held at the BJA’s conference facility in Birmingham on 18th January, 2011 to assist members in understanding the current position. Topics to be covered include age discrimination, pregnancy rights, temporary lay-offs and dealing with ‘sickies’. There will also be a look at risk profiling and how businesses can be helped to manage their health and safety

“Regulations now apply to companies of all sizes and non-compliance simply isn’t an option. The services Peninsula offers will help members to ensure they have the right systems in place for their particular business needs and will keep them regularly updated. Signing up for this service provides the added benefit of access to a 24 hour help line and the provision of indemnity to cover lawyers costs in the event of a legal problem.”

18 The Jeweller December 2010

To book your place at the Seminar please contact Peninsula on 0844 892 2771 quoting your BJA membership number. policies; new fire risk assessment regulations; liability insurance; lone worker policy and staff induction training. “This seminar, which is full of useful hints and tips, is really a must for all our members,” says the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton.

BJA News |

Retail representative on the BJA National Committee ounded in 1964, Catherine Jones in Cambridge was one of the UK’s first contemporary jewellery retailers and has been at the forefront of the movement ever since. It is thus no surprise to discover that its current MD and BJA national committee member, Vanessa Burkitt is busily carrying on the tradition of the shop’s eponymous founder, her mother Catherine, in creating a few ‘firsts’ of her own. Burkitt, who was formerly a political and TV journalist and her son Matthew (a former City trader) took over the running of the shop when Jones retired in 2003 and it wasn’t very long before Vanessa became the first ever retailer to join the BJA’s National Committee – drawn there, she says, by her consuming interest in the ethics of jewellery production and her enthusiasm for supporting British design. Since taking over the business, mother and son have undertaken a number of significant projects and Mathew has since returned to the world of finance. The projects included a complete refit of the premises; the installation of a sophisticated computer, stock-control and general management system and most recently a total rebrand of the website complete with

Catherine Jones in Cambridge

glamorous shots of the supermodel, Caroline Salisbury, taken during a photo shoot staged at a local manor house. The refit – featuring the company’s trademark Cambridge blue – was created to echo the company’s design ethos and Burkitt’s respect for the hand-made. Bespoke craftsmanship is reflected in every aspect of the interior. “We wanted to echo the whole idea of real things made by real people, and create an ‘envelope’ to show off the work,” she explains. “We used a specialist artisan company to dress the walls using an ancient Venetian technique where plaster is stained with pigment and then hand-polished with beeswax to create a wonderfully subtle and lustrous effect. The display cabinets are also bespoke and have been finished using another Italian technique of hand-crafted and crackled gesso, to complement the walls,” she adds. The final stages of the refit coincided with the very worst of the credit crunch as well as major rebuilding works which led to shops in the immediate area remaining empty for many months… potential customers were hardly being drawn to the street. “It was a very difficult time. We really held our breath but I believe our investment in the premises

Vanessa Burkitt

helped to see us through, as well as the great staff I have who major in customer service,” she says. The area is now booming again with a number of new complementary shops having opened along the street. So why did a retailer join the BJA which is normally seen as the preserve of the supply side of the industry? “Things are changing – there is now considerable overlap,” she explains. “Manufacturers frequently retail or sell on-line while retailers manufacture; this is good for the industry and we can all learn from each other. When I took on the shop there was real controversy raging about sales of rough diamonds or ‘Conflict Diamonds’ funding wars in Africa, about which I felt great concern. I was drawn to the BJA by its very positive stance and the excellent work it was doing in educating the industry about this and the whole Kimberley Process,” she adds. Four years later ethical matters are still high on Burkitt’s and the BJA’s agenda, so much so that she has recently agreed to chair a sub-committee within the Association with special responsibility for working to improve further the transparency in the diamond supply chain. And she and the BJA’s CEO, Simon Rainer, are currently working closely together to define the scope of this significant initiative. “Working with jewellery is fantastic. We design and manufacture great work in this country and I am very sad to see so many British producers struggling in the current circumstances. The more we at the BJA can do to represent them and to develop the initiatives they need to support the trade, the better it will be for everybody,” she says.

The Voice of the Industry 19

| Security Update

Christmas Security As the Christmas period approaches, thieves, distraction merchants, and violent robbers gear up to take advantage of the crowds, darker nights and higher stock levels that assist them in their attempts to make a dishonest living, says Michael Hoare.

he run up to the festive season gets longer every year and in October preparations were well in hand for most retailers, so the recent NAG Council meeting was just the right time to review security procedures in advance of the silly season. Not just physical security measures, but also the processes that employers and staff adopt to ward off attempts; behaviours to adopt while a crime is in progress; and the dos and don’ts after any incident. The added bonus of lunch at Fortnum and Masons attracted an audience of about fifty, first to get some hints and tips on reviewing your procedures from Mark Beale (above) of the Metropolitan Police; a chance to brush up on some of the scams and modus operandi employed by minor criminals, presented by Ian Kirke of Training for Success; and get an insight into where stolen goods end up, from Jim Mathieson of etelligencia. From his experience of addressing robberies in the Metropolitan Police area, Mark Beale identified a number of issues which make the jeweller vulnerable. Many, regrettably, are problems which in the main are self-inflicted. They include CCTV cameras pointing at walls or inappropriately sited; poor or broken CCTV systems; remote safe locking not used or broken; staff not following procedures correctly; safes open

20 The Jeweller December 2010

or with too short a time delay; and display limits not in place or exceeded. Counting the direct costs of robbery, such as loss of stock and cash, is relatively easy, as is the loss of profits through store closure. But just as damaging to business, and less easily calculated, are the human and indirect costs. Following a robbery, staff go off sick or, in many cases, leave the business altogether; then there are the consequential costs of recruiting and training their replacements; and time taken to attend court. Add in damage to displays; perhaps a disruptive post-event HSE investigation; and possibly raised insurance premiums... and costs really begin to build up. Beale’s recommendations for reducing risk include: undertaking frequent risk and security reviews; ensuring that security

Forty-six forces in total have been subject to incidents, which shows that jewellery crime is increasing and remains a national problem. SaferGems alerts remain integral to the success of the SaferGems operation, with almost 200 circulated since July 2009; they are now being disseminated within police force intranet systems and being used on daily briefing sheets within intelligence units. SaferGems is also being recognised as a source of information on police intelligence reports. They remain a useful ‘heads up’ for the industry when attacks, attempts or incidents have occurred; have been instrumental in preventing and detecting offences; and are also being used by members as part of their staff recruitment and training. The circulation of distraction alerts in particular has proved successful with incidents and offences being linked not only regionally but nationally assisting businesses to recognise and identify potential suspects and vehicles. The alerts have also been successfully used as a means of circulating stolen property and assisting police enquiries. Principle trends include: smash and grab robberies, perpetrated by attackers on motorcycles armed with sledgehammers; multiple attacks on Asian jewellers in the

“Forty six forces in total have been subject to incidents, which shows that jewellery crime is increasing and remains a national problem” policies are implemented; investing in appropriate security equipment; continually training staff in security issues and procedures; joining a local crime reduction initiative; and collaboration with other jewellers in the neighbourhood. Last, but not least, Mark reminded his audience to report all crime and suspicious incidents to SaferGems: www.safergems.org.uk

SaferGems Update ctober alone saw more than fifty incidents and attacks reported to SaferGems, bringing the total since the scheme’s inception in July 2009 to more than 550. Evidence over the last six months also confirms that on average forty-five incidents are reported to the scheme co-ordinator every month. Of these incidents approximately 200 have taken place on West Midlands, Thames Valley and Metropolitan Police force areas.

West Midlands; thefts targeting high value watch displays; and attacks on travelling jewellery sales people. Of particular concern is an increase in violent attacks on domestic premises, which seem to be motivated by the attractive market price of gold. However there is good news to report, and SaferGems has received commendations from the Police for its involvement in the arrest, in Leicestershire, of a gang of South Americans who targeted jewellery reps; providing intelligence resulting in sentences of up to six years for a Hampshire gang; alerting police to another sales rep offence in Coventry; identifying antique thieves in North Yorkshire; and the recovery of stolen jewellery by the Met. There really is no excuse, sign up now!

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The Voice of the Industry 21

the

RACHEL ENTWISTLE

Jeweller picks... London-based jewellery design Rachel Entwistle has created a collection of ethical jewellery for Survival, the international trible peoples rights organisation. The Organic leaf and Lily pendant and earrings have been made from recycled brass and sterling silver. To help towards campaigns which protect land, community and environmental rights, 15 per cent of sales will go direct to Survival. www.rachelentwistle.co.uk

RAYMOND WEIL

Noemia is the elegant and very feminine new ladies’ collection from Geneva watchmaker Raymond Weil. The polished steel case is set with diamonds, and the dial studded by four Roman numerals and eight full-cut diamonds. The watch comes in two different sizes – 27mm or 32mm in diameter according to model – with saddlestitched leather strap or polished/brushed steel bracelet. www.raymond-weil.com L

RUBINIA

The Italian hand-made jewellery brand Rubinia has just launched into the UK. ‘Gioielli Secondo Natura’ is the first collection to be seen here and consists of gems mounted in natural elements to give the jewelllery pieces shapes that are unrepeatable. Each one is unique as far as colour, style, cut and features, and completely handmade by craftsmen to create different combinations of stones and natural mountings. Opal, turquoise, agate and aquamarine appear to be growing on bases of gold and silver leaf resin, tagua nut, buffalo horn, ebony and shell. www.rubinia.com

DOWER & HALL

Winter Bloom is a collection inspired by a 20 year old Liberty art fabric print designed to celebrate Dower & Hall’s 20th anniversary. Silver and rose gold plated chain, together with oxidised silver chain are used to hold silver flowers with rose gold plate centres as well as silver bud-like bells for extremely tactile pieces. www.dowerandhall.com

ST BARTHS COUTURE

SWATCH

The iconic Swiss maker of colourful fashion watches has introduced a new five-piece Chrono Black Collection. Each model comes with a black dial with colour contrasts and highlights framed by the signature 47mm case in brushed stainless steel with black PVD. Black dominates each model – from the black stainless steel case and textured black rubber strap, to black dial and bezel. Vibrant colours on the dial and hands add a subtle highlight. www.swatch.com

ELENA CANTER

LUCAS JACK

KONPLOTT

Self-taught jewellery designer and one-time banker Nick Bartley launched Lucas Jack four years ago with the aim of creating quality, affordable, colourful jewellery. The 18 carat gold bangles, rings, bracelets, earrings and necklces are made from recycled ‘scraps’ and decorated with stones such as chalcedony, amethyst, sandstone and peridot, as well as resin. www.lucasjack.com

Despite having its own shops in cities as far-flung as Moscow, Paris, Peking and Berlin, the fashion jewellery brand Konplott – created by Miranda Konstantinidou – is only now looking at the UK market. The handmade pieces using many different materials, from brass and glass to crystal and embroidery thread, are bold, playful, textural and diverse in terms of themes – for spring/summer 2011 moving from roses to African beadwork inspirations. Sales: 01304 224 288

Inspired by the exotic Caribbean island, St Barths Couture is the brainchild of Charlotte Wilson, who wanted to create a collection of afforable, glamorous jewellery that echoed the relaxed, colourful but sophisticated way of dressing there. As well as bangles and chains, the line also includes Swarovski crystal-encrusted leather cuffs and wire cuffs in gold, silver and gunmetal grey. www.stbarthscouture.com

Spanish jewellery designer and sculptor Elena Canter launched her collection of dramatic, avante garde jewellery pieces at London Fashion Week in February 2009. Inspired by the industrial structures of her native Bilbao, she works in bronze, blue silver and copper for her anatomical, tactile necklaces, pendants, bracelets and rings. www.elenacanter.com

DIAMOND BY APPOINTMENT

Swiss watchmaker Perrelet has launched the Turbine XL – a breakaway from the brand’s more classic models. Continuing the same aeronautical inspiration as the original Turbine, the new models, including this limited edition version in rose gold and DCL steel feature the double rotor in the generous 50mm case. www.perrelet.com L

KIMBERLEY WATERHOUSE

Using slate from the west coast of Scotland, jewellery designer maker Kimberley Waterhouse has produced a very personal collection of work. Using traditional skills and modern techniques she creates natural jewellery pieces which are tactile and sculptural – letting the slate speak for itself. She combines the slate with silver and gold to enhance the precious quality of the stone. www.kimberleywaterhouse.com

SWITCHCLICK

The bead phenomenon has just taken a new direction, with SwitchClick. This clever sterling silver ring, with its removable bar, allows the customer to wear a bead from all the renowned brands, on their finger. Whether it's Truth, Lovelinks or Pandora, the look of the ring, which retains its tension, allows for endless changes of look. Retailers can also buy two styles of chain with a special 'ornament' loop that allows the ring to be attached and create a pendant. Rings retail at £55 and the Starter Pack comes with POS display, leaflets, 10 rings in nine sizes and two chains. Call: 01670 510222 for details.

TRISORI

PERRELET

Now designing totally through its own inhouse design team, Belfast-based Diamond by Appointment has created three new styles of platinum bridal bands. A ‘cocktail’ of high-tech programmes has enabled the company to produce extremely clear and detailed photo-realistic imagery from which retailers can select. In addition, through the company's website, jewellers have the ability to dial into its full stock-holding. www.diamondbyappointment.com

The London-based Italian duo behind Trisori, which launches this month, have been inspired by the geometry of Venetian villas and the baroque spirit of Sicily, for a collection that remains contemporary in feel. Colour is a key hallmark of the line, which incorporates stones such as tourmalines, iolites, citrine, garnet, chalcedony and onyx set in gold plate for bold party pieces. www.trisori.com

| BJA Retail Ideas

Providing an alternative As more and more consumers seek jewellery that is a little outside the mainstream, new retail outlets are springing up to provide tempting alternatives to the traditional high street store. Mary Brittain spoke to some members of the BJA who are ringing the retail changes. “

Duffy

The Atelier Duffy is another designer who has gone down the ‘atelier’ route. When I spoke to him he was in the process of putting the finishing touches to a workshop/retail outlet in the hip Shoreditch area of London. His showroom, which will be open only ‘on appointment’ is ultra fashionable. Using what he describes as ‘a white canvas’ the jewellery is displayed in black cases made from ornate picture frames. There is a centre piece of an ancient safe with animal skulls and pieces of taxidermy to complete the look which Duffy says has ‘a warmer feel’ than most galleries. As well as showing his own work, Duffy will carry jewellery and accessories from other designers he admires. He sees no conflict between his ‘shop’ and the retailers he supplies. “None of them are based anywhere near me and in any case I don’t want a shop as such – more an area where I can show off not just my collections but also my bespoke pieces, which is the area of my work that I most enjoy,” he explains.

The Pop-up Shop For those designers who have neither the space nor the inclination to create a sales area within their workshop, another alternative

26 The Jeweller December 2010

he ultimate goal must be to have lots of retail sales,” says the designer jeweller William Cheshire who has recently opened a small sales area and showroom within his production facility just off Hatton Garden. Although Cheshire supplies galleries and independent retailers on a wholesale basis, he believes that there are also numerous advantages in selling directly to the consumer. “Customers have always come to the studio to pick up commissions, and creating a sales area has given me a great opportunity to show them what else I can do,” he says. But doesn’t dealing with consumers directly also cause problems? “Well it can certainly be challenging, but you do get instant feedback and it shows you what works and what doesn’t,” he says. “Seeing my jewellery being tried on helps me notice things I need to change. You have to be prepared to learn and to listen. Having more contact with consumers has also given me a sense of what people like, what sells and where to build up stock,” he adds.

way to retail is the ‘pop-up’ shop, whereby a tenant takes space in otherwise empty premises for just a week or two (often at a peppercorn rent) and creates their own temporary retail outlet. This is a rapidly growing phenomenon. A recent search on ‘Google’ offered me some eight million ‘pop-up shop’ options!

“I don’t want a shop as such – more an area where I can show off not just my collections but also my bespoke pieces.” Duffy A pop-up shop worked well last Christmas for the designer maker, Daisy Knights. She had only just graduated when she was picked as a ‘Bright Young Gem’ at International Jewellery London. Taking a pop-up shop in December was an ideal way, as the company’s sales director, Michelle Higgs states, to capitalise on that success and to bring Knight’s jewellery to a wider audience. “We went initially into a pop-up shop on the Fulham Road in London as part of a group of designers and when that tenancy ended we decided to take the whole space

for ourselves,” she explains. “We had a big party on the opening night and eventually stayed for two weeks. The sales easily covered the rent.” Higgs believes that the impermanence of the pop-up shop is one of its attractions. “It makes it special. It also helps sales because customers know if they don’t buy it when they see it, it quite literally wont be there next week. In fact Daisy made some special one-off pieces to really build on that fact,” she adds. So how, in such a short time, do you attract people to the shop? “You need a good location but social networking is really important too. Daisy has a big following on Twitter and Facebook and some quite well-known bloggers visited the shop and then blogged about it, which drew in their followers too,” says Higgs. William Cheshire

BJA Retail Ideas | ‘quirky’ than Wave, takes the Hendersons back to their roots in so far as it will be run on a sale-or-return basis and will carry work from designers who are less mainstream than those sold in Wave itself. “It will be a great testing ground for young designers who may not yet be ready to meet the needs of Wave, although we are hopeful that some of the people we stock will progress and grow into being able to serve a broader market. The W Collection will also fill the undoubted demand for more cutting-edge designs,” Jo explains.

Platform

Assisted Space While not exactly pop-up shops, Craft Central’s two retail venues – one in London’s St John’s Square and the other in Clerkenwell Green – offer members the chance to retail their products for just a short period, and this is a tactic which has worked well for the London designer Sarah Herriott. Space costs from around £90 a week for the shop, to around £120 for the larger space and then there is public liability and insurance costs on top. “Showing your jewellery in a retail environment definitely helps you to pick up new customers. Sometimes people don’t even come into the shop, they simply see a piece in the window and then they track you down later. I also have a cabinet of jewellery permanently on display in my workshop for exactly the same reasons – it gives people a wider understanding of what you do,” Herriott says. Another choice for designers looking for a little help on the route to retail is Platform in Hatton Garden. This is a not-for-profit initiative set up in 2009 and, as Jamie Hanson explains, all the jewellery in the gallery is displayed on a sale-or-return basis with Platform marking up the designers’ wholesale prices by 2.5 per cent and taking its cut as and when a product is sold. “Unlike a conventional jewellery shop we don’t dictate to suppliers what their wholesale price should be, although we will advise them if we think they are pitching it too low or too high,” says Hanson. To ensure that high-standards are maintained, jewellery is selected by Platform’s manager Sarah Hutchison, herself a wellestablished designer maker whose role is also to counsel and advise inexperienced makers and students with regard to their designs. “A conventional retailer will simply take a

designer’s work and absorb it into their stock. At Platform we give designers the chance to establish their own brand awareness. Their name and details appear with their work and we tell consumers all about them,” explains Hanson. “We also flag them up on our website, so that even after their time in the gallery is over they can still be contacted by customers who may have seen their work but not managed to buy it while it was on display,” says Hanson.

Wave – The W Collection

The Commercial Gallery For those designers who do not fancy going it alone on the route to retail, there are now plenty of commercial galleries and shops which will take their work. And one shop that has been at the cutting edge of alternative jewellery retailing since it was formed some ten years ago is ‘Wave’. Jo Henderson and her husband Paul have rapidly established a highly-successful group of five jewellery stores with a sixth just about to open. Wave now has three outlets in the Lakes; a flag ship store in Manchester and a recently opened boutique in London’s Knightsbridge. Interestingly the couple is now to open ‘The W Collection’ in a shop adjacent to Wave in Manchester. This shop, which is, Jo says, deliberately more ‘hard edged’ and

“Retailing is a real skill and I would urge designers to think about it very carefully.” Henderson Although a designer herself, Henderson is slightly sceptical about the recent designer rush to retail. “Retailing jewellery and making jewellery are two very different things. Retailing is a real skill and I would urge designers to think about it very carefully,” she advises. Henderson is also keen to point out that if designers are going to go directly to the consumer then they must do so at prices which do not undercut those of their wholesale customers. “If they are selling to consumers more cheaply or making sales online instead of directing them to local stockists, they are doing nothing to help the industry,” she warns. These rules are, however, well understood by the many designers who successfully straddle both camps. Among the long list of thriving maker/retailers who belong to the BJA are Diane Hall and Dan Dower whose long-established ‘Dower & Hall’ is a shining example of contemporary jewellery retailing. So too is James Newman’s flourishing shop in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter; Alexander Davies’ quirky emporium near Selfridges and Josef Koppman’s studio in the Oxo Tower, London. The final word goes to William Cheshire, who on his business card urges his customers to ‘Escape from the politely organised’. Could that be what this move towards alternative retailing is all about?

The Voice of the Industry 27

| Opinion : John Henn

Your character understood – wow what a revelation! John Henn submits to a little character analysis… and learns something about the rest of us. recently found myself, along with others, in the beautiful surroundings of Fawsley Hall in Northamptonshire – an elegant if somewhat draughty English country house (my French wife, used to hermetically-sealed houses, might not however see beyond the gaps in the sash windows). The oldest parts of the hall date from the beginning of the 16th century – worth stopping overnight if you are in the area (www.fawsleyhall.com). Prior to my arrival – for a team-building event – I had undertaken a Personal Profile Analysis, which is a study to identify the DNA of your character. It is widely used to ensure people working together will benefit from each other’s contribution rather than fight against it. The result of answering fifteen or so multiple choice questions was to receive a nine page summary of my strengths and weaknesses – it was as if someone had downloaded my own personal software. The information arrived with a suggestion to give the document to someone who knows you well to see what he or she thinks. I duly gave it to my darling wife who exclaimed the reference to me being ‘highly

28 The Jeweller December 2010

organised at home’ must be some computer malfunction, but in truth you could believe it was written by someone who had know me all their life. So it was with the rest of us. Seemingly we are all of a certain type; you cannot change the person you are – just understand the areas you will excel in and avoid the areas you don’t. The four categories are as follows: Dominant – 20 per cent of the population; Influential – 20 per cent; Steady – 50 per cent and Compliant, just 10 per cent. It seems we lost a lot of the ‘Dominant’ gene pool to the land of opportunity a few hundred

friendly, positive, and like to be the centre of the stage. They are persuasive and verbal – such people as Bill Clinton and Richard Branson. Their downside is that they are self-conscious, suspicious and serious. The Steady majority are the people that actually make the country function and without them nothing happens. They are dependable, kind and good listeners. They in turn are also, on the downside, eager, restless and demonstrative. Steady, really defines the country – the fact that we will wait in a queue rather than jump it. The Compliant group are the sort of people who will run a tech department of a computer company. They will come into your store and ask you the calibre of the watch they may buy. They are the sorts of people who will talk at you, and when you speak they are not listening – just preparing the next thing to say. They thrive on detail, accuracy, and are perfectionists. Fortunately more live in Germany and Switzerland than in the UK. But they can make ‘stuff’ very well indeed. One in any team is essential though, as they make sure you don’t walk into the same roadblock that your predecessor did ten years ago. In my NAG experience Jack Clelland-Brown was this person. He would recall unheard of laws and protocols, keeping the Association safe. Michael does a pretty good job in his absence it has to be said. The whole concept is irrefutable. In the past it was known as gut feeling, and there is no doubting its benefits for team dynamics. Whether a member of staff who ignores the blindingly obvious because it just isn’t on their radar (like a full bin for example) or a client who seems to ask so many questions. The trick is to understand the pros and cons and coach accordingly. It was www.thomasinternational.net that was the provider and perhaps we will see if the

What it does show you is rather than getting irritated by someone’s activities, you can understand that they don’t see what you see. years ago, when they were given the green light to start again in the ‘New World’, but we kept a few to give us such personalities like Winston Churchill, Margaret Thatcher and of course Knight of the moment Lord Sugar. The Influential category, a similar amount, gives us the great communicators. They are

service may be made available to all at a special rate. For sure it will be in my next recruitment process. From my keyboard and my soul I wish you all a very happy and prosperous Christmas. Hopefully my daughter Amélie at nine months will not require jewellery.

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Swarovski

DressUp... ...trim down

Tom Allen investigates the predictions for store design trends in 2011 and reveals how and where you can save money in a refit. “

hat is good design?’ It can have as many answers as there are people to ask. For some it might mean minimalism, while others prefer certain colours and there are those who have a very specific design that they are not willing to compromise on. It is, however, a question that a retailer must answer when considering a shop refit. ‘A whole new store look’ might not be the first thought to cross the mind at the tail-end of a recession; expensive operations often requiring the closure of premises for a week or more – it is understandable that most owners shy away from the loss of trading time as we approach busy selling periods.

30 The Jeweller December 2010

However this has not stopped several jewellers from refitting current premises or even opening entirely new stores. A few independents as well as big businesses have taken the plunge and gambled on a new look to draw customers in this holiday season, with names including Nicholas Wylde, Michael Lynes and Swarovski appearing on shop-fitters’ lists. In fact Nathalie Colin, creative director of Swarovski, says that the recession actually inspired the company to be more innovative: “Crisis obliges brands to be even more creative than usual, which we did. As a result, Swarovski opened numerous boutiques worldwide.”

This year the Shop and Display Equipment Association (SDEA), a trade body that aims to provide its members with purchasing power and advice on trends in the shopfitting and retail display markets, has revealed that demand for shop-fitting is on the rise for the first time in two years. “A resounding 72.2 per cent [of the membership] registered an increase in sales over the last six months compared with the previous six months,” reports the Association’s September survey. This is followed by predictions of business increasing still further in the new year. Lawrence Cutler, director of the SDEA, has called the movement, “a remarkable turnaround,” pointing to “the renewed energy and confidence now being experienced within the shop-fittings and display market.” New Retail Week surveys by John Ryan also chime with the SDEA’s conclusions, with several shop-fitters and recruitment agencies serving the sector seeing an upturn in interest in recent months. The consensus appears to be that while not yet back to pre-2008 levels, the market is undergoing a significant increase in activity. Why the sudden change? Retailers were, understandably, less willing to commit to

Feature | investing in new store layouts for uncertain benefits during the recession, but it appears that now that spending is on the increase, confidence is also returning to the high street and more store owners are willing to invest in renewing their own brand to fit new trends. Bath and Bristol-based Nicholas Wylde, who last updated his image 12 years ago, opted for a subtle change in his colour scheme – from blue and gold to blue and silver – to give his corporate image “a certain crispness.” Meanwhile Michael Lynes, a jeweller whose customer base favours the appearance of a traditional jewellery shop, designed his new store in Henley to utilise an “updated traditional look,” where he compromised between volume and design.

them is in windows and display cases. It might be tempting to go as large and colourful as possible to attract business, but remember that anything overly decorative will detract attention from your product. In addition flexibility is key, with big displays now seen as a big mistake. “I regularly come across modular systems that don’t fit in the window and in some cases are so large that it is impossible to reach the product displayed on it,” comments Head.

The DiaLumen system, marketed in the UK by P.J. Watson

Selling sparkle

Selling a show Judy Head of Head Creative Associates, a company that works with small- to mediumsized businesses to raise the profile of their goods and services, makes a point of paying particular attention to trends in windows and displays. “The trend is definitely against crowded windows,” she says. “In part this is

popular. “The story,” says Head, “should be relevant to the moment. Now it is Christmas; immediately after the break the wedding planning season gets underway and this is potentially big business.” Seasonal displays are very popular, and the first half of the year sees not only marital matters, but

Both independent retailers and big businesses have taken the plunge and gambled on a new look to draw customers in this holiday season… due to buyers being very careful with how and when they invest their money in stock, and many jewellers still carry far too much. But it is also a response to the market demand to be entertained, to be made to feel special and happy.” Head runs display workshops for the NAG and will be running the Essential course on 12th May and then on 6th October next year. Other trends that have been seen over the past year include a favouring of bright colours, theatrics and themed displays, especially in the run-up to Christmas. It may seem like this contradicts the discreet-butclassy direction seen elsewhere, but really is just a different way of promoting brands and stores. Displays that tell a story or reflect current popular desires for animals, fantasy figures and retro designs have been very successful, and of course these subjects all bring a wealth of colour and shapes not seen in jewellery stores for several years. Displays that tell a story and have an easily understood message are incredibly

Valentine’s Day, Easter, and Mother’s Day as well, which then transition smoothly into summer’s weddings. Mistakes, however, are all too easy to make when it comes to store design, and one of the most common places to make

A good white light has long been the preferred way of displaying jewellery to make it really shine. In the past this was provided by halogen lamps, which are still a low cost option, but the real news lately is the growing popularity of LEDs (lightemitting diodes), which have reached the point at which they are a viable alternative to halogens. The big draw of LED technology is twofold: first the long service life (some can allegedly run for up to 11 years), and secondly the efficiency: back in 2003, Cree Inc. developed an LED than produced 65 lumens per Watt (lm/W) – more than four times as efficient as standard 60-100 Watt incandescent lights, which operate at around 15 lm/W, and the technology has only improved since then. Cree Inc.’s most recent development is a laboratory prototype that achieves 208 lm/W at room temperature. LEDs are a flexible lighting source, able to achieve a spectrum of colour temperatures. Simone Breedon of Display Lighting Ltd.,

Peter Jackson’s entrance, created by Hallmark

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Feature a specialist manufacturer of lighting designed specifically for retail and exhibition displays, praises this ability: “The colour temperature of a white LED can vary dramatically and ranges between 3000K – that has a yellowish appearance – up to 7000K, giving a bluish tinge to displays that is particularly good for giving extra sparkle to diamonds, crystal and silver.” One piece of LED technology that warrants a particular mention is the DiaLumen system. Developed by Cyril and Jean-Claude Pilet and marketed in the UK by P.J. Watson, it consists of sets of moving warm and cold white LEDs that simulate natural sunlight inside the display case, allowing the jewellery to really sparkle. “In the showcase, the DiaLumen system keeps the magic alive,” the advert boasts, and I must agree. Reservations about LEDs are natural, though, and the technology does have its downsides. David Griffin of Hallmark Design and Shopfitting Ltd. says, “In order to achieve the levels required to illuminate a mass display, you need to install ten times more fittings than the number of the conventional light fittings, which increases the initial cost. There is of course a payback in the amount of energy used, but coupled with the higher initial investment, this may take several years to achieve.” Davril’s modern frontage designed by Hallmark

32 The Jeweller December 2010

Jewellery glittering in a display case at Azendi

“We are not designing just for today, but for the future.”

With rising energy prices the industry buzz is all about efficiency, with David Griffin commenting that it will probably be “the biggest challenge shop designers will face in the future.” LEDs are built for efficiency, and newer ceramic halide lamps provide the same amount of light as comparable incandescents, at one fifth of the power usage.

Meanwhile the traditional low voltage halogens still provide vast amounts of good, clean white light; Stephanie Swallow of Apple Display and Shopfitting says, “We use low voltage lights in window areas, as the intensity is a bit brighter than LEDs.” There is a wide range of lighting available to the commercial jeweller, and when considering a refit it is a case of choosing the right lights to fit the store. Mark Giddings of Giddings Design, which has a fantastic grasp on contemporary trends in the shopfitting market, says, “It requires knowledge and professionalism to specify ‘which’ should go ‘where’ to achieve the desired effect.” Although there is a growing trend towards LEDs, most companies still offer choices and will be happy to advise you on the best type – or types – of lighting for your store. If you are unsure how a specific light will look, then ask for pictures or go to a showroom to see the effect. As with all shop-fitting situations, do not make the mistake of accepting a proposed change without knowing exactly how it will look; this will help you to avoid heartache later on. If it is not the windows, then the lighting is the area of the store most commonly misunderstood by jewellers – perhaps because it is so much a part of the background ambience. According to Mark Giddings, misuse of lighting is in fact the first and foremost mistake made by retailers. This is an area of the store where thought and investment will really pay off, so make sure you take time – possibly a full day – to discuss it with your designer and hammer out a firm plan that you are both happy with. Finally, be aware to steer clear of ‘gimmicks’, like overuse of coloured lighting. ¯

The Voice of the Industry 33

| Feature

Domino’s creative suite by Giddings Design

Selling yourself And so to return to a point discussed at the start of this article – what makes good design? When considering a store refit this should be a retailer's first question, as the answer will define what the new premises look like. While thinking about that though, it's also important to take into account how the new store will reflect the shop's brand image. A shop embodies a brand. It is what customers will come to associate with the business, and so it is important to give them a clear statement to show them what it represents. “The brand and reputation of the store is by far the most important message that you have to put across to your potential customers,” says Head; meanwhile designer David Griffin says, “It is vital that the design of a shop reflects the place the retailer wishes to position themselves in the marketplace. Customer perception is critical.” So how does one go about ‘branding’ a store? The key is in cohesion; a brand can be identified because of the similarity of the designs and materials, and this also holds true for a store. The shop as a whole will

34 The Jeweller December 2010

look more impressive if the displays share a unifying feature, such as corporate colours, or something that defines the premises. Take Nicholas Wylde’s new premises in Bristol: it uses oak fixtures throughout, and so customers are constantly reminded of the unity of the store. Wylde’s use of his recently updated corporate colours of blue and silver is also a focal point. Watts Design was both the designer and shop-fitter of the refit. Swarovski’s new boutique on Oxford Street was designed with the aforementioned question in mind: to the company the answer is, “a design which fully reflects the brand DNA.” As such the entire store

facets, and sets off our quest for perfection, innovation, creativity and refinement,” says Nathalie Colin. But cohesion isn’t always about consistency. Part of what pulls Kruger Jewellers in Wallasey together is the variety of its décor. With one wall made of moulded wood with a gloss finish, another covered in aubergine beaded effect paper, and yet another covered in silver and black pixelated paper, the interior could never be referred to as ‘conventional’. However it is this difference that makes the store, owned by Gill and Diederik Kruger, stand out and gives it the image that links it with the bespoke

“The brand and reputation of the store is by far the most important message that you have to put across to your potential customers…” purposefully fits together with clean white lines and sparkling crystalline formations throughout, leaving plenty of space dedicated to the Swarovski products. “The priority was to create a universe that perfectly expresses Swarovski’s identity. The new boutique design clearly refers to our precisely cut

jewellery sold there. The store was designed and refitted by Robert Nicholas Interiors. “He was very keen to use unusual materials and create a bold, unconventional interior… he also created a minimalist retro-style window display which is very striking and really complements the unique

Feature | style of our jewellery,” says Debbie Flowerday, the store’s assistant manager. Optical illusions that trick the customer are also used: the back wall, although it appears padded, is actually covered with the pixelated wallpaper, and the ‘recessed’ chandelier – a real talking point – is actually made up of halogen-powered crystal bulbs on a mirrored ceiling plate. It is certainly one of the more inspired designs I’ve seen recently.

Counting the cost Jewellers are unfortunate in that their stores are among the most expensive of any retail premises to refit, with extremely specialist attention to detail required when it comes to lighting, detail and joinery. This is only made worse for those jewellers who do not realise that there are many certified, trustworthy independents out there who will be able to do the work for the same price or less than the larger firms. One such business in Designing Interiors; owner and designer Deborah Ingram works alongside shop-fitters, specialising in helping retailers on a budget. She has several tips on how a retailer might be able to afford that refit that he or she has been worried about – although for the most in-depth advice you will have to go to the source! “However low a budget is, vast improvements can be made to an existing store through prioritising accordingly. For completely new shops, we would always advocate designing for the best case scenario, and then working backwards from there to secure the right look for the right price,” she says. Although it is important for the retailer’s vision to come through, Ingram also advises trusting a designer’s judgement: “It can be difficult to be objective about the environments that [the retailers] have grown up in. As designers it is in our interest to provide the right solution.” Stores on a budget tend to be smaller, but size is no obstacle to success – and why should it be? Large stores have more room for displays, but there is also the risk of clutter; an immediate turn-off to a potential customer. “Size does not matter as long as the maximum focus to the stock is achieved through simple design, good lighting and good displays,” says Ingram. “Jewellers must de-clutter as much as possible, and that can be done for free.”

Protecting yourself Although not every retailer has to worry about budget, all do need to think about protecting the investment they have in the store. Which leads on to an important issue for jewellers – that of security. Crime, including theft and armed robberies, rose dramatically in the recession. The infamous Graff Diamonds robbery, which cost the Mayfair store roughly £40 million, made national headlines in 2009, but it was far from the only store to have suffered.

“Jewellers must de-clutter as much as possible…” “As a result of the highly publicised increase of bandit attacks upon jewellery premises, property owners are not just implementing preventative measures within the window areas of the shop front, but also the entrance doors, which are now being identified as a weak area that requires serious consideration,” says Cheryl Jones of Door Systems Design, which designs, manufactures and installs doors for retail premises. To counter this threat the company offers the All Glass Anti-Bandit Entrance Door System, which can withstand a repeated attack with a sledge hammer for an average of 45 seconds.

It is important to find a reputable company to do any security work – preferably a specialist. “If you don’t use a specialist shopfitter, like a joiner, it is often the case that you have to compromise [on design], but the design specialists often include security as standard,” says Michael Lynes. This includes companies such as Hallmark Design and Giddings Design. “Ideally it would be a wonderful society we live in if everything on display could be touched, though sadly this is not the case,” says Mark Giddings. “However, recent developments in glass, information technology, and security technology allow refinement of ideals to suit most applications.” Happily, most companies are willing and able to incorporate security measures into new store layouts. Some, such as Apple Display, specifically build to blend the two aspects of store design together, making sure that all areas are open and visible to staff. Nicholas Wylde has had an office installed at the end of his new shop, which is long and narrow, as an extra security measure allowing the manager to work in a quiet environment while being able to keep an eye on events on the shop floor and react accordingly. Keeping some members of your staff separate like this is a good way to respond to any sort of possibility of the store being held up, as it allows someone to call for help.

The Voice of the Industry 35

| Feature One of several differently-textured, display case walls at Kruger

displays will remain popular, as will open stores and simplicity. “[Jewellers] don’t seem to be going for the traditional window displays anymore, they seem to be going for more freestanding glazed units and simple design to open up the shop and create more light,” she says.

Time to be bold

Most companies agree that there need not be any compromise between design and security – both are important and achievable with some creative thinking. Nathalie Colin affirms what many jewellers will be thinking, saying, “Security is a must you cannot compromise on, so the issue does not even occur; security has to fit the standards.”

Looking to the future In 2010 we saw a growth away from the ‘traditional’ jeweller’s image and towards more minimalist, clean cut premises, and many design companies are predicting more of the same in 2011. It is important to keep on top of these trends and to take advantage of them, although do not let fashion completely decide how your store will look; as David Griffin points out: “We are not designing just for today, but for the future.” “I think there will be a continuation of ‘free-spirit’ thinking and a resolution to create a more personal and distinct ‘brand’ styling to really engage with customers,” predicts Giddings. “The eco bias move to more powerful LED lighting will continue as these lights develop and become powerful enough to use in retail situations. They have a particular benefit in counter displays where extremely low residual heat build-up combines with options for choosing the actual colour temperature of lights to match the desired lighting effect.” Deborah Ingram shares this view. Although she is also of the opinion that trends should not dictate design, she sees LEDs ready to

36 The Jeweller December 2010

jump in popularity: “The only ‘trend’ that I can see having major implications for all is LED lighting; to date we have resisted them, preferring dichroic lighting for the quality of sparkle, but with their improvements and low running costs the demand for good LED solutions is increasing.” Stephanie Swallow of Apple Display agrees with Judy Head’s conclusions of earlier: standout, interesting and innovative window

Although the shop-fitting market is recovering, it is still suffering from the after-effects of the recession. Competition for business has driven prices downwards, and many companies are now offering the same services at a much more affordable cost. Retailers who are bold enough to seize the moment could be rewarded with a store refit at excellent value, provided that they know what they are looking for and are not afraid to shop around to find just what they want. Stay true to the vision you have for your store, is the message, but do not lock yourself into a theme that cannot be changed at a later date. As David Griffin reminds: “Shopping follows trends and fashions, and our shops must reflect these changes. We have to design in flexibility so that at very little cost the shop can assume I a brand new image.”

Common shop-fitting mistakes “All too often the last consideration in store design is lighting and its effects. The lighting should be viewed as the icing on the cake; I often see some fantastic store designs and ideas let down by inadequate lighting design.” Ron Coleman, Director, BARO “The use of somewhat old fashioned ‘halogen spot lights’ within display cabinets. Producing immense amounts of heat, they can create an extremely uncomfortable ‘hot’ environment in which to peruse your potential expensive purchase! One assistant actually had burns on her hands from retrieving jewellery from the oven-like display!” Steve Burridge, Hera UK “Over-embellishing an interior distracts from the product; self- and badly-covered display items are a crime; poor and wrong lighting can be fatal; shop-fitters with no design team or no experience who ‘have a go’ are a false economy.” Deborah Ingram, Designing Interiors “Too many jewellers ignore the important fact that their customers want a bit of variety, so changing the windows frequently – every day is just fine – will show that you care about them, care about your stock and appear to be busy even if you are not!” Judy Head, Head Creative Associates “On occasion we have noticed that people have merchandised their new shop-fit incorrectly, such as not utilising display space to its advantage, or overstocking. Use of old suppliers’ cabinets/displays is also a problem.” Stephanie Swallow, Apple Display and Shopfitting

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The Voice of the Industry 37

| BJA Designer Exports

Brits a hit in Paris This autumn’s Paris Fashion Week (1st-4th October) was a huge success for a number of British jewellery designers, many of whom participated in the British Jewellers’ Association’s project ‘London Jewellery Exports’. aris Fashion Weeks comprise essentially four different events – two ‘Shows’ and two ‘Pre-Shows. Thanks to the 100,000 international buyers these events attract Paris is becoming an increasingly important destination for British designers, with some 250 companies – jewellery, fashion

“One of the very complicated things about exhibiting at Paris Fashion Week is the multitude of different venues and different companies organising events and it is difficult for the outsider to know where best to show their wares,” says Lindsey Straughton. Both the BJA and ‘UK Fashion Exports’ (part of UK Trade & Investment) can offer wouldbe jewellery exhibitors help and information and the latter produces a very useful map ‘Brits in Paris’ which directs visitors to where British companies are exhibiting. Among the British designers at this year’s autumn event were Erickson Beamon at ‘Tranoi’ at the Louvre; Katie Rowlands at ‘Vauxhall Fashion Scout’ at Galerie Ouizeman; Akong at ‘Vendome Luxury Trade Show’, Place Vendome; Perle de Lune at ‘The Box’ and Alex Monroe and Kira Bella at ‘Premiere Classe’ in the Jarden des Tuileries.

www.ericksonbeamon.com

the event. “Their return to Paris in their own right is exactly the outcome we would have hoped for from the mentoring they received through the project.”

New this year

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and accessory producers – taking part this year. However for the uninitiated it is not easy to know where and when they should exhibit. www.katie-rowland.com

38 The Jeweller December 2010

First-timers this year were Jasmine Alexander, Duffy and Alexander Davis who exhibited together as ‘The British Fire First’ in the fashionable Nadine Gallery on Rue d’Alger with rave reviews in the global media. “It is really gratifying to see how these businesses have grown their export profiles since they first exhibited with LJE at Kara two years ago,” says Straughton who attended

www.jasminealexander.com

Details of a number of London-based jewellery exporters can be found on the London Jewellery Export’s website at: www.londonjewelleryexports.com

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Ethical Jeweller |

Beads from Nqobile on a silver bracelet by Harriet Kelsall

Soweto Success Story In The Jeweller back in April we ran a particularly inspirational story about designer jeweller Paul Spurgeon and the work that he is doing with Soweto Township-based business NQ Jewellery (NQJ), owned and run by Nqobile Nkosi. The feature instantly caught the eye of NAG member Harriet Kelsall who runs a successful jewellery design and retail business with outlets in Hertfordshire and Cambridge, and today she too is working with the talented young maker. “ t struck me as remarkable – what Paul was doing to help this community – and when I realised that he was just down the road from me I gave him a call; maybe I could help in some way,” explains Kelsall. “Paul suggested that perhaps I could buy some of Nqobile’s jewellery, but as we retail only our own designs that wasn’t possible. I then realised that I needed beads for a bracelet design and remembered that Paul said Nqobile also worked with glass.” Bingo. Using NQJ’s work as a starting point, Kelsall provided Nqobile with a rough guide to colours that she wanted, along with shapes and sizes of the hand-made beads, and then left the actual designs to him. “I ordered a hundred beads and asked for 20 of five designs,” she says, “but when the order arrived I was amazed to discover that I’d been sent a hundred unique beads – each one was totally different! “And the quality is exceptional. They are similar to those made by the leading bead suppliers, but taken to a new level; they have incredible depth and each one is a tiny work of art – they must have taken a long time to make. We have put them onto a static silver bangle and they look amazing.” Because Harriet Kelsall Jewellery is known for creating certain designs and then moving

on to a new look, the bead collection will have a limited run, but she is definitely encouraged to work with Nqobile again on new pieces. In the meantime NQJ has received a further, much-needed fillip: on 16th November the company was declared one of the winners in the Soweta regionals of the SAB KickStart Awards, a platform created to stimulate sustainable enterprise development in South Africa. An early morning text to Sturgeon confirmed that Nqobile had been given a grant of 60,000 Rand (about £5,500) and a package of office equipment including printer, scanner and Blackberry. The win also places Nqobile in the running

for next year’s national awards, the prize for which includes invaluable mentorship. Alongside opening his first UK account – the beginning of what he hopes to be an ever increasing export portfolio – this prize is a fitting cap to what has been an eventful year for Nqobile. He now employs four people – as we go to press – with the hope of increasing this to five by Christmas; this has been a roller coaster of an experience for him and in his words: “I feel like crying sometimes because it’s tough and it takes a lot of sacrifices” Nqobile and Spurgeon will also be rolling out this very same model early next year, working with ladies in Kenya (also mentioned in our April feature) that have or have been affected by Aids and or violence. This direct approach to aiding those marginalised or disadvantaged has proved very effective and does not rely solely on hand-outs, but rather a ‘hand up’. “We have decided to call this project ‘Cornerstone’ as it embraces the concept of a people once rejected and sidelined to a new era of respect and empowerment,” explains Spurgeon. And having also learned about Spurgeon’s involvement with this craft-coperative, Harriet Kelsall has also offered to produce designs for jewellery pieces that the group can produce. “It’s still in its embryonic stage and the ideas have to be realistic and achievable as well as of the highest quality, but I feel fairly confident that if this story is put together in a cohesive and commercial way, with jewellery that is a stylish fusion of European and African product, it will work,” says Spurgeon. “Some things, for some reason strike a chord and so you have to run with them… otherwise you lose out on some deeper, personal level.”

Amani Women Group in Nairobi

The Voice of the Industry 41

| Insurance Matters

Having the right insurance policy – worth its weight in gold Are you aware of the impact that the rising price of gold could have on your business? Jewellery insurance expert Neil McFarlane from T.H. March suggests that you should consider it. f preparing for the New Year and the rise in VAT isn’t enough to worry about, then it certainly isn't the time to find yourself at a loss when it comes to the cost of gold. Recent years have seen the value of gold skyrocket and in the past year the price has increased by a further 25 per cent, with each day bringing the possibility of a further rise. Although its independent value never essentially changes, its worth against paper money has been steadily increasing, particularly in light of the ongoing instability of the economic market. As jewellers, this dramatic increase would certainly not have escaped your attention and it is important that precautions are maintained to ensure you do not find

yourself out of pocket. As professional insurance brokers, T.H. March would like to make you aware of the possible implications that could arise from this inflation with regards to your current insurance cover. Many of you will have a ‘replacement cost price’ basis of settlement, which enables you to claim for the cost to replace items at the time of loss – not the cost at which they were originally purchased. If you have items of stock purchased over 12 months ago, the cost to replace these today will be substantially higher, so this basis of cover will prove beneficial. However, it is essential that your total stock sum insured on your policy is adequate to take into account current replacement values.

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

Subscribe today to the industry’s key trade publication Make sure you’re kept in the know by subscribing to the only jewellery trade magazine supported by the industry’s two key trade bodies for retailers and manufacturers, the National Association of Goldsmiths and the British Jewellers Association.

If you have an ‘original cost price’ or ‘cost price plus a percentage’ basis of settlement, the difference in replacement prices over time will not alter. However, the financial repercussions of this fixed arrangement could be huge and devastating in the event of a loss, due to the extra cost you would have to fund to replace your stock in the current market. It is strongly recommended that you regularly carry out revaluation of your stock to ensure you are adequately protected, taking into account the current bullion and gem prices. Should you need any advice or information on insurance policies including the T.H. March jewellers block insurance visit: www.thmarch.co.uk

Yes, I would like to subscribe to The Jeweller for a period of 12 months (10 issues) at £77.00 (UK cost) including postage and packaging. I enclose a cheque for £77.00 payable to NAG I would like to pay by credit card/switch (please tick your chosen payment method) Card number: _______________________________________ Expiry Date: ________________________________________ Name on card: ______________________________________ Type of card (e.g. Visa):_______________________________ Issue no. if Switch: ___________________________________ Company: __________________________________________ Name of Recipient: __________________________________ Mailing Address: _____________________________________

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Simply complete and return this form to: National Association of Goldsmiths, 78a Luke Street, London, EC2A 4XG or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

42 The Jeweller December 2010

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When it’s good… But before I am even sure whether the size is adequate, a decision is made on instinct and on personal preference, almost subconsciously, as a reaction to the image. How could it be otherwise? “The whole purpose of a jewellery photograph is to make the person looking at it want to buy and own it. It should convey the essence of the design and make the viewer want to pick it off the page,” says photographer Paul Hartley, whose clients this year have included the likes of Goldsmiths, Beaverbrooks, Christopher Wharton and Mappin & Webb. “Good photography is when the jewellery comes alive and I guess it should actually look better than it looks in real life,” says New York-based Graeme Montgomery whose current clients include Graff and Swarovski and whose editorial work appears in magazines such as Tatler and Vogue Gioiello. “It has to make the piece desirable and should do justice to the craft and the material,” adds Elke Bock who is responsible for photographing the collections of designer Ute Decker. There’s a lot for the photographer to consider: “Good photography should show every aspect of the piece; be perfectly lit; metals should be discernible as polished or matt; stones should be clear, contrasted and show the full spectrum of colour, or, with diamonds, show refraction and natural fire,” explains Andrew Neilson, to whom the likes of Garrard have entrusted their imagery. Graeme Montgomery for Bazaar

Photographing jewellery is a fine art, requiring care, technical know-how, craftsmanship and much patience. Belinda Morris explains why it should never be undertaken lightly. nsurprisingly, images of jewellery drop into my inbox every day. Much of it is unsolicited (though always welcome) and the rest has been requested by me, to illustrate or support some feature or another. Whether accompanying a press release or an introductory letter however, the images have been sent in the hope that they will make it on to the pages of The Jeweller. Sometimes they do… and then again, sometimes they don’t. My eventual choice of one photograph over another is never arbitrary. And by the same score, a decision to abandon a whole set of pictures from one source is never ran-

44 The Jeweller December 2010

dom – it’s generally that the images are unusable. Photographing jewellery is not easy and getting it wrong, in one way or another, is all too commonplace. So, what constitutes good photography? Well, from my perspective and in the very first instance, an image that I am sent has to be of a quality and resolution that is high enough to reproduce in the magazine. If, once it is scaled up beyond two centimetres square, say, it becomes an indistinct blur, then it’s trashed I am afraid. Sometimes we have time to call in a better version… but very often we don’t – working to a tight deadline rarely permits this.

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Feature | Paul Hartley – Azuelos ring

The whole purpose of a jewellery photograph is to make the person looking at it want to buy and own it. It should convey the essence of the design and make the viewer want to pick it off the page… Hardly surprisingly, the big international luxury brands tend to be in a league of their own when it comes to great jewellery photography. When asked for their opinion on who gets it right, Cartier’s name comes up time and time with the professionals. And this is closely followed by Holly Golightly’s favourite store – “the most common request we get is: ‘Can you make it look like Tiffany?’” says Julia Rydzynska, managing director of Packshot Factory – and Gucci (“they combine great imaging with trend-leading fashion layouts,” says Neilson). With my consumer hat on, I’m personally drawn to those ads in Vogue that show a detailed close-up of a piece on one page, with a ‘lifestyle’ model shot opposite – Chanel and Dior are both using this inspirational device pre-Christmas.

“I think jewellery is the hardest thing to photograph,” says Montgomery, “and not many get it right. Bad is when you just see all the flaws and the jewellery looks dull and flat. Often you are showing it larger than life size and, when it is frozen still in a picture, it is hard not to see all the tiny scratches and flaws. Also gems sparkle when they move under the lights. In a stills picture you can’t capture that so you have to in some way imply it,” he adds. “Jewellery is a pretty complicated subject visually, by which I mean it has often got intricate reflective outlines and is quite

fine so that, if it’s placed against busy backgrounds, it visually fights them and is lost,” explains Hartley. “Bad jewellery photography will often have an interesting but over-fussy background that swamps the jewellery. It’s all too easy to get carried away by the props and styling and lose sight of the purpose of the shot.” And why is it that poor photography makes its way into advertising and editorial? Montgomery has his view: “Most jewellers are very conservative and don’t really seem to understand fashion and imagery. Foolishly, I think, they tend not to invest in it in the way they need to,” he says. As you might expect me to say, the key to getting the images that you want and your jewellery deserves, does not lie in doing it yourself, but to go to a professional.

Brief encounter Finding a photographer is the easy bit; on-line there are hundreds. “Selecting the right one for you is trickier, though,” says photographer Jonathan Pollack. “However, if you like the images on a photographer’s website and they are in the right location, make an appointment to see them with their portfolio. The right professional photographer will have in-depth knowledge of all the factors required for a successful shoot.” Having chosen a photographer the next stage is to brief them as to your requirements. “You may ask ‘why brief them – they should know what to do?’ Let me put it this way, would you ever commission a builder to build an extension for you without a brief? So, communication is key,” Pollack adds. ¯

And when it’s bad… No need to name names, but those photographers who are renowned for their work with jewellery (and watches) are quick to identify what constitutes a bad image. “Bad photography makes the jewellery ugly,” says Hartley. “Common mistakes I see are that the item is poorly lit; often leaden-looking; overretouched or under-corrected; dark under-lit diamonds; over-lit bleached out diamonds; amateurish, careless arrangements of chains etc etc. Corners are being cut because it takes a long time to do it correctly.”

Andrew Neilson

The Voice of the Industry 45

| Feature It’s not a straightforward business though. “A detailed brief removes ambiguity, but can constrain the creative process; while a total free reign is rarely that, and invariably ends up in rework to meet the virtual brief… that was probably there all the time,” explains Neilson. “Understand what your client really wants, show him what you think he needs and then listen – that way everyone ends up delighted.” For Graeme Montgomery a starting point is essential. “The minimum is for a client to give you a pile of pictures that they love,” he says. “One of the joys of my job is that every client is different. Some know exactly what they want and it is up to me to give it to them – but hopefully make it better. For other people they need to be led through the process. Ideally brands should work with art directors who will look at their brand and Lucy Davenport for Anthony Blakeney

come up with a coherent image direction that is right for it.” In Hartley’s view “the best shoots are a collaboration and the most important part is listening to the client at the briefing phase.” He finds that he or she usually has a mental image of the kind of brand they’d like to project and he’ll be given examples of existing imagery as a guide for the sort of look or arrangements. “More often we work out a style that suits them and I try to introduce new ideas so that the result is greater than the sum of its parts,” he says.

Whether to go for the girl One fundamental that has to be sorted from the start, is whether a jewellery collection should be photographed on a model or not. It’s a budgetry consideration (models don’t

46 The Jeweller December 2010

Graeme Montgomery for Graff

Ideally brands should work with art directors who will look at their brand and come up with a coherent image direction that is right for it. come cheap) as well as an aesthetic and strategic one. “Putting jewellery on a girl always sexes it up and is good for image, but the pieces always end up quite small in the pictures,” warns Montgomery. “It’s all about what the image is trying to do or convey,” explains Rydzynska. “To sell a particular product you are best to shoot a beautifully lit item on a white background Paul Hartley for Winterson Pearls

to concentrate on the product itself without distractions. If you are trying to convey a lifestyle choice to the end user, then you might try something more creative with props or models.” And Pollock is quick to highlight how the sums can add up. “Using models adds the glamour and the mood to the material, but I would always recommend using professional models from model agencies,” he says. “They are well worth the investment and the best way is to organise a casting prior to the shoot to select the right model for your promotion. It is not cheap but when executed properly with a makeup artist and stylist to source the clothing, the shots will speak themselves and sell your product,” he adds.

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The Voice of the Industry 47

| Feature

Jonathan Pollock

If your pieces are shot well, the jewellery looks fantastic and the whole look of your website or online shop will be given a face lift. A good photographer, who is used to shooting jewellery on models, will know these things, but it’s important to check that the chosen girl has perfect skin and that includes hands and finger nails – retouching is a time-consuming, painstaking and therefore expensive process.

Counting the cost How much a photo shoot costs is a piece of string thing of course – there are many elements to take into account. But there are a few general rules of thumb. “You will need one budget for photography and another for retouching,” explains Pollock. “At the cheaper end a single piece of jewellery can be shot in five minutes and for under £10, but it will have limited use as it will be of poor quality. At the other end of the spectrum a single shot will cost many hundreds of pounds and take all day if not two. Mid range prices – expect to pay anywhere from £25 to £300 per shot depending on quantity and the type of brief. ”For good photography, the budget needs to allow for retouching and is an additional fee,” he continues. “The price will vary but on average it will be about 30 to 40 per cent of the photographer’s fee. The retoucher’s job is to remove the scratches, dust, fingerprints

48 The Jeweller December 2010

and to improve for example the clarity of any stones. In addition, they improve the look of the shank, chains and bangles and make any colour corrections. Retouching enhances good photography, but it cannot improve poorly lit jewellery.” Of course there are some – namely those who sell on-line – for who good photography is essential. “Some will think that to shoot a full collection is costly and something that can be cut back on,” says Lucy Davenport whose clients include Anthony Blakeney, “but I feel it is worth doing. If you can’t afford to have the full collection shot, consider selecting your key pieces and have those shot professionally, or just one piece,

Elke Bock

for example for the opening page on your website, to create an impact. If your pieces are shot well, the jewellery looks fantastic and the whole look of your website or online shop will be given a face lift, looking I cleaner and professional.”

DIY Photography Tips If you must do-it-yourself, here are a few tips from Packshot Factory... • Spend as much as you can afford on a high quality camera and macro lens. • Digital will show you the results immediately which will help when experimenting. • Don’t waste money on cheap equipment as you will end up going to a professional anyway. • Practise with different lighting set-ups. • Learn Photoshop if you want to produce high end imagery. …from Lucy Davenport: • If you’re wanting to save budget and shoot your own material, my suggestion is to be critical. I’m yet to see someone who isn’t a professional shoot well on a white background. • However, I have seen some stunning images that a jeweller has shot on textured backgrounds and just using natural light. • I would also suggest you shoot digitally as you get instant results and can immediately see if your composition and lighting is working. …and from Paul Hartley: • Less is More – put fewer items on a page. • Put space around the items and also space around the edge of the page. Don’t arrange items to the edge of the page unless they break the edge. • Use a digital single-lens reflex camera with a macro lens and a good sturdy tripod. …and one or two warnings: “Don’t do it! The secret if you want to know (but I doubt it will help) is that it is like shooting in a hall of mirrors. Every surface reflects what is at an angle to it. That’s why it is so hard.” Graeme Montgomery “Jewellery light cubes are great for stock references and valuation references, but they produce grey flat results and unless you’re very skilled at Photoshop you’ll struggle and the results will be disappointing.” Paul Hartley “Photographing jewellery on models can be a minefield – casting is key as well as the translation of the brief.” Elke Bock “Engage a professional. Good photography should never be sacrificed when it’s the most fundamental aspect of launching a product.” Andrew Neilson

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It’s a love thing Hearts & Kisses for Valentine’s Day 2011 from the BJA

LEBLAS This intricate heart pendant features hearts within hearts and is included in the new spring/summer 2011 collection by ethical jewellers Leblas. It is in 18ct white gold adorned with diamonds. RRP: £845 T: 020 7730 3418 W: www.leblas.com

FREDERICK B The ‘Intimacy’ range showcases its unique and exclusive ‘intimate setting’ which positions one stone over another or series of stones so that they are almost touching. All rings in the ‘Passion collection’ are in platinum and are available in 0.50ct – 3.00ct with clarity options of H/si to D flawless. All are designed to be paired and fit snugly with the intimate fit wedding and eternity bands. The channel set ring featured has baby pink sapphires below a fine white diamond. RRP: £5,500. T: 020 7043 8136 W: www.frederickb.com

DOWER & HALL Designed to enclose a picture or love token – and then worn close to the heart – these hand-carved lockets deserve to be on every girl’s wish list. Look out for classic solid silver hearts, stylised oval shapes with delicate engraving or round designs set with pretty gemstones such as diamond or amethyst. RRP: from £160. T: 020 7819 9047 W: www.dowerandhall.com

ZINFINITY The Aurora collection, inspired by light and shadow, is created by entwining sterling silver with pure silver and gemstone hearts. As the sun falls on the jewellery a coloured heart shadow will appear on the body. Available in a wide range of colours. RRP: for earrings and pendants from £49. T: 07944 974 891 W: www.Zinfinity.co.uk

DOMINO This heart-shaped, diamond-set pendant and earring suite is from Domino. The contemporary-styled pieces, in either yellow or white 18ct gold with HSi brilliant-cut diamonds, come nestling on black tissue in their own heart-shaped, red, papiermâché presentation box. And this loving gesture won’t break the bank, with the pendant retailing at under £200 and earrings at just over £400. T: 0121 236 4772 W: www.dominojewellery.com

50 The Jeweller December 2010

POLY PHILIPPOU The Greek Hearts Collection is a range of striking pendants, earrings, charms and bracelets – the pretty textured hearts are based on a traditional Greek design and on Hellenic vintage jewellery. These pieces are made from solid silver and are hallmarked. RRP: £40-£125 T: 07775 658833 W: www.polyphilippou.com

Peter’s designs are inspired by current international trends combined with a modern twist on vintage references. One of Australia’s most influential and successful fashion jewellery designers, Peter Lang is now stocking throughout the UK and Europe. All items are hand-made in Australia with Swarovski crystals and finished in triple silver and gold plate. Each range has dramatic every day wearables to glamourous evening pieces complimented by stunning bridal designs for an unforgettable entrance statement.

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38th International trade fair for jewellery, watches, design, gemstones and technology Dress - Joe Challita Photograph - Dave Piper

The Voice of the Industry 51

| Antique Jewellery I n

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Antique JEWELLERY

However, aside from all of this, Taylor is almost as well known these days for another of her personal enthusiasms: jewellery. The actress is a lifelong lover of fine jewellery, and owner of some amazing diamond pieces which, according to the actress herself, were all gifts from husbands and admirers. As she (modestly, of course) put it, “I’m fortunate to have some very important pieces of jewellery. I don’t believe I own any of the pieces. I believe that I am their custodian, here to enjoy them, to give them the best treatment in the world, to watch after their safety, and to love them.”

Diamond Liz When you think of famous and fabulous bauble lovers, you think, almost instantly, of Elizabeth Taylor. Jo Young takes a rummage through the London-born star's diamond-filled jewellery box lizabeth Taylor is known for many things. There’s her illustrious cinematic career, which began in 1942 when she was just nine years old; her beauty; her enthusiasm for getting hitched (seven husbands at last

count) and her admirable and tireless efforts as a charitable fundraiser (so far, she has helped raise many tens of millions of dollars for her AIDS charity, The Elizabeth Taylor Aids Foundation).

Taylor Burton diamond With Elizabeth Taylor and jewellery, it is hard to know where to start, but probably the best place is in the Parke-Bernet Galleries in New York where, at an auction in October 1969, she became the intended recipient of a huge diamond, weighing in at nearly 70 carats. This became known, for obvious reasons, as the Taylor Burton diamond. By far the most famous of Taylor’s diamonds, the Taylor Burton diamond was a whopping 69.42-carat pear-shape. This D Flawless piece of loveliness was cut from a rough stone weighing 240.80 carats, found in the South African Premier Mine in 1966. The stone was first owned by Harry Winston, after which it belonged to Harriet Annenberg Ames, sister of the then US ambassador in London Walter Annenberg. Declaring it too big to be worn, Annenberg-Ames put the stone up for auction to save it from languishing in a safe. “I found myself positively cringing and keeping my gloves on for fear it would have been seen. I have always been an extremely gregarious person and I did not

52 The Jeweller December 2010

Antique Jewellery | enjoy that feeling. It sat in a bank vault for years. It seemed foolish to keep it if one could not use it. As things are in New York one could not possibly wear it publicly,” she said in a statement in 1969. The diamond actually sold in the auction itself to Cartier, only then being bought – and named – for Elizabeth Taylor. Robert Kenmore, then chairman of the board of the jewellery firm, placed the winning bid of $1,050,000, to scenes of understandably great excitement in the auction room. To put this figure into its proper context, the highest price previously paid for a diamond was $305,000 for what was known as the Rovensky diamond, which was set into a necklace and weight around 46.50 carats. The stone was duly named ‘the Cartier’, but the story didn’t end there: eventual buyer Richard Burton, who had underbid at the auction itself, approached Cartier and made them a (presumably rather good) offer for the stone. Cartier were happy, in any case; as Kenmore splendidly enigmatically put it to the press, “We’re happy that Miss Taylor is happy”. The Taylor Burton diamond initially went on display at Cartier’s store in New York, where it was viewed by more than 6,000 people a day. Fascinated by the staggering price tag of the stone, they queued round the block.

Taylor herself did not actually get to show off the Taylor Burton diamond publicly until a month after the auction, when she wore it to the then Princess Grace’s 40th birthday party in Monaco (as you do). Quite what the other guests made of the diamond flashing

at them over the dinner table is not known: presumably it must have been something of a talking point! Eventually, Elizabeth Taylor sold the diamond in 1978, two years after her divorce from Richard Burton. She used the proceeds, admirably enough, to build a hospital in Africa, while the stone itself was later recut.

Hollywood romance Like much of her jewellery, this showstopping piece was bought for Taylor by the bestknown of her husbands: the Welsh actor, drinker and all-round charmer Richard Burton. The size of this particular diamond and its value, coupled with the tempestuous nature of the pair’s relationship (they famously married twice, divorcing one another in 1974 only to walk down the aisle a second time the following year), helped to seal the legend of the Taylor-Burton marriage in the public imagination. For many people – not least of them, Elizabeth Taylor herself – this was a relationship that was truly the real-life epitome of the kind of tragic, passionate and enduring love affairs they depicted together on screen. For those young ’uns whose knowledge of mid-twentieth century film stars is necessarily shakier than my own, a brief biography: Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton met in 1960, when they were filming the hugely expensive epic, Cleopatra. Taylor – then the highest paid actress in Hollywood – played the leading role, while Burton was her love interest, Marc Anthony. With both married to other

people, their affair was followed avidly in the press, and though they both later divorced their spouses and married one another, things never settled into domestic bliss for the couple. The marriages that followed (one lasting a decade, from 1964 to 1974, the second taking place the following year and lasting a mere matter of months) could best be described as ‘stormy’. Both were big characters and heavy drinkers, touched with classic thespian egomanaical tendencies. The pair lived a thoroughly glamorous existence (think mansions, parties and private planes) but apparently fought like cat and dog much of the time. Still, despite – or perhaps because of – the tempestousness of the couple’s relationship, theirs is regarded as one of the most thrilling romances of Hollywood’s great age and their exploits and grand (often diamond-shaped) romantic gestures were chronicled faithfully in the tabloids of the day.

Krupp Diamond The Taylor-Burton diamond was not, though, the first significant piece of jewellery that Burton bought for his wife. He started off a little more (ahem) modestly with the 33.19-carat Asscher-cut Krupp diamond, which he bought in 1968. It had belonged to Vera Krupp, wife of the steel magnate Alfred Krupp. After it was bought for her, Taylor had the stone set in a ring, which she has worn for countless public appearances since, both as herself in television interviews and live appearances and, perhaps a little more bizarrely, in character on film. So often is Taylor seen wearing the Krupp ring, that it was even animated on screen when the actress turned up for a cameo on The Simpsons.

The Voice of the Industry 53

| Antique Jewellery Still owned by Taylor today, the Krupp diamond cost Burton $305,000 when he bought it at auction, at Sotheby’s, in May 1968. Taylor describes the ring as her “very favourite” piece of jewellery.

La Peregrina Pearl La Peregrina Pearl too was a gift from Richard Burton, and to me – despite the size and value of her other diamonds and jewellery pieces – it is by far the most interesting piece in Taylor’s collection, thanks to its extraordinary provenance. The pearl, which was bought by Burton as a Valentine’s Day present in 1969, is a large pear-shape white pearl, one of the most famous pearls in the world. It was originally discovered in 1513, weighing 223.8 grains, off the Pearl Islands in the Gulf of Panama.

The Taylor Burton diamond

La Peregrina was passed to Joseph’s nephew Charles Louis Napoleon, who sold it to the Marques of Abercorn while in exile in London. With the Abercorns it remained until passing back into the hands of royalty in 1969 – this time of the Hollywood variety.

The ‘Taj Mahal’ diamond

Queen Mary wearing the Peregrina Pearl

The pearl, which translates in Spanish as ‘the Pilgrim’ or ‘the Wanderer’, became part of the Spanish Crown Jewels in the first half of the sixteenth century, after which it was given as a gift to England’s Queen Mary by Phillip II just before their wedding in 1554. The pearl returned to Spain after Mary’s death in 1558, and stayed there for 250 years, being worn by various Spanish queen consorts. In the nineteenth century, the pearl’s story picks up again. In 1808, Napoleon Bonaparte captured Spain, installing his brother Joseph on the throne. However, the French forces were soon overthrown at the Battle of Vitoria, and a defeated Joseph is said to have fled Madrid carrying the pearl with him. It was at this point that the pearl got its name.

54 The Jeweller December 2010

Yet another gift from Burton, this was a large heart-shaped stone, with an Arabic inscription written on each side of it. Taylor has the stone set into a gold necklace, with rubies and diamonds surrounding it. As far as legend would have it, Burton said of this piece, “I would have liked to buy her the Taj Mahal, but it would cost too much to transport”. Burton’s enthusiasm for diamond buying is in itself of interest to a contemporary observer; in this modern age of female self-purchasing, it seems unusual to most of us that a man would spend the sort of

Fellows (Est. 1876)

money that Burton did in lavishing Elizabeth Taylor with extraordinary gems. But it seems that there was some canny thinking going on behind the romance: at one time the highest paid actor in the world, Burton clearly saw these gems as investments as much as pretty presents. “Diamonds are an investment. When people no longer want to see Liz and I on the screen, then we can sell off a few baubles,” he is quoted as saying.

Elizabeth Taylor today Much of what we know about Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery collection – the stories behind the stones, if you like – comes from Taylor herself, from the pages of her 2002 book, My Love Affair with Jewelry. In it, she gives a full profile of each of the pieces in her collection, and explains how she came to own them. “I knew that I wanted to give others a glimpse of the thrills and pure happiness that these beautiful creations have

Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches – Thursday 6th January, Thursday 20th January, Thursday 3rd & 17th February Thursday 10th & 24th March • Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 13th January, Thursday 3rd March • Silver, Plated Ware, Coins & Medals – Monday 7th March • Costume & Silver Jewellery & Novelties – Monday 7th March • Wrist & Pocket Watches – Monday 17th January A catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post. Online bidding is available at www.the-saleroom.com/fellows For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

Antique Jewellery | given me,” she says. If nothing else, the book clearly shows Taylor to be an enthusiastic, knowledgable collector – she’s no passive recipient of baubles, despite some of the more fabulously outlandish statements she makes in the book. “I mean, how many young women get a set of rubies just for doing something wholesome like swimming laps? Or win a diamond ring at Ping-Pong with their husband…? Well, I did, and for all of these memories and the people in my life I feel blessed.” Indeed. Having spent a lifetime wearing some of the world’s best known pieces of jewellery, it seemed perhaps only right that Taylor put her name to a collection of her own. In 2007, her brand House of Taylor Jewelry was born. The company sells fine jewellery, including diamonds, watches and coloured stones under the House of Taylor, Elizabeth and Kathy Ireland Jewelry brands. For Taylor herself, the love affair with the jewellery world goes on. The former actress (who, these days, makes few public appearances due to her advancing age and poor health) recently held a jewellery auction, comprised of donated pieces, that raised hundreds of thousands for her AIDS charity. Among the pieces that she put up for auction was, rather poignantly really, her engagement ring from Richard Burton. Ever the dramatic actress, Taylor only removed the ring from her finger when she was stood in front of the sale crowd. “Please know that it is not easy for me to give this away,” she said.

Garish? Me? What makes Elizabeth Taylor such an interesting study as a jewellery wearer is, in my opinion, the way in which she manages – somehow – not to look foolish while wearing the pieces she owns. This is no small feat: we’re talking about a woman, let’s not forget, who has the kind of self-confidence it takes to wear a $1m diamond to a Princess’s birthday party. Elizabeth Taylor loves 30 carat stones, she owns 30 carat stones, and by god, she’s going to wear them. And this flies in the face, does it not, of what we think we know about wearing jewellery well? We are taught that understated is elegant, that less is more. And frankly, there’s a reason for this particular adage: big bling is something that is very difficult to carry off… and still look good. On most people, a 33 carat diamond ring would seem preposterous; on Elizabeth Taylor it seems entirely appropriate because to her – you can see it in her eyes in every photograph – it absolutely is appropriate. Put simply, there’s a certain panache that comes with having Elizabeth Taylor’s sort of accessorising gall that means she doesn’t look ludicrous wearing huge stones, when the rest of us no doubt would. And that, you see, is Hollywood.

The Voice of the Industry 55

L ATE ST

N E W S

F R O M

TH E

E D U C ATI O N

NAG Viva La 2010

D E PA RTM E NT Claudia Sarti won the Greenough Trophy

A year in the life of Education and Training 010 has been yet another prosperous year for the NAG's education department. Sixty-five years in the running, and we are still offering first class education and training to all our members. From the young novice, to the business leader, no-one is overlooked with our new and updated training programmes. “We’ve seen the introduction and restructuring of our education programmes, another two rounds of excellent exam results, and the celebration of sixty-five years of exceptional training,” says education manager, Victoria Wingate. “We’ve continued our commitment to offering seminars, workshops and events throughout the year. I’m so proud that the NAG celebrated 65 years of exam success.

“An incredible one-hundred percent of students responded that they would say the JET 1 and JET 2 courses were good or excellent” Celebrating 65 years of NAG education

56 The Jeweller December 2010

It is quite an achievement and proves just how far the we have come – we’re still going strong and are looking to do the same for another 65 years!” she adds. Our year commenced in A* form, with the extremely positive results of our student survey. An incredible one-hundred percent of students responded that they would say the JET 1 and JET 2 courses were good or excellent, with many using words such as “fantastic”, “great” and “a joy”. All said they were especially pleased with the tuition they received, and would definitely recommend both courses to a colleague. The survey confirmed our belief that it’s the tutors themselves that make a real difference to the learning experiences. Throughout January we announced a number of tutorials and workshops for JET 1 and 2 students, before heating up the February Spring Fair in Birmingham, with a summer holiday theme. arch saw one of our most prestigious events: the annual Presentation of Awards ceremony. At this gold plated occasion, all JET graduates are invited to collect their diplomas – with exceptionally high achievers receiving special accolades for their hard work. Each year the student with the highest aggregate marks in the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma, wins the coveted Greenough Trophy, which, this year, was presented to Claudia Sarti of Laing International, Glasgow. The Gemstone Award, for the highest aggregate marks in the Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma was presented to Steven Pyke of Pyke & Sons, Birkenhead. Over 90 students attended with

friends and relatives, to receive their awards. “The Presentation of Awards Ceremony is definitely one of the highlights of 2010,” explains Wingate. “Seeing graduates collecting their diplomas after their hard work and dedication is wonderful. It’s a great evening of celebration with lots of proud, supportive family members looking on. It’s a superb event for the industry and proves that education must be at the forefront for success”. This success continued into April, with the initial announcements of our new training program appearing on the horizon; while changes to our valuation diploma were discussed. The end of April saw the diamond grading seminar, provided by our friends at Diamond Group Services, who lead two spectacular and informative, two-day seminars, in the Belgian capital, Antwerp.

Education + Training | pring crept up on us, as May saw the announcement of the upcoming Executive Development Forum (EDF) conferences and nervous students were ushered into halls for the Professional Jewellers exams. Then June the education department was busy behind the scenes putting together a new management focused course, as well as a new way for students to study the flagship JET 1 & JET 2 programs. We also focused on the annual congress for the EDF which was held at the Saïd Business Centre which forms part of Oxford University’s business and economics department. The congress invites executives of our member organisations to get together to discuss solutions to industrywide problems. Headed by Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives, the EDF allows business leaders to meet in group workshops, to work through any issues they may all be experiencing, and come up with an applicable model they may be able to use to solve these issues. As the summer rolled around, we prepared ourselves for September’s International Jewellery London (IJL). We always have a presence at the show, however, this year was different, as the event saw the launch of two new NAG training products, and the celebration of sixty-five years of continued commitment to training in the industry. Firstly we launched our new

online training facility, which allows students to study our flagship JET 1 and JET 2 in our paper-free learning environment. A day later, we launched our new modular distance learning program, JET Pro. The new JET course allows more senior members of staff to take a number of modules to plug in gaps in their skills. It was a very proud moment for the NAG. “The two IJL launches prove that we continue to move forward," says Wingate. NAG education is evolving just as the trade is, and we will always look to provide the very best in trade education. We reflected on sixty-five years of education but also showed how we continue to evolve”. Towards the end of the year, the 22nd annual Loughborough IRV conference took place and saw another round of workshops and seminars geared towards raising the profile of valuers within the industry. With no time to rest, CEO Michael Hoare give a presentation at the Theft & Serious Crime Symposium in October, outlining the triumphs of the NAG and T.H March’s SaferGems initiative; before attending the last Meeting for the Members of the Council, on the 12th of the month. Both events focused on security and safety in the jewellery industry, as well as engaging members in discussion about the highs and lows of the past three-quarters of the year. Our busy year is still littered with events that will, no doubt, be reported in upcoming

issues of The Jeweller in 2011. However, the education department would like to thank all students and tutors for making this one another excellent year. With our new training package and online learning environment live as of January 2011, we look forward to another challenging and exciting year ahead of us. For more information on the work of the education department, workshops, seminars, the new courses or any of the events above, please get in touch on 020 7613 4445. Alternatively, you can e-mail the education department at: jet@jewellers-online.org

Our summer holiday-themed display at The Spring Fair

The Voice of the Industry 57

| Legal Jeweller

Have you reached breaking point? Feeling trapped by your commercial lease? Having a right to terminate early can be paramount to a business’s success – but tenants need to be wary! t is difficult, in particular for emerging and enterprising new businesses, to commit to long leases of commercial premises without the help of a crystal ball. What if plans for growth prove to be over ambitious? What if import costs (in particular the cost of gold) increase further, knocking thousands off the bottom line? Given these kinds of considerations, in today’s competitive market, there is an increasing demand for short flexible leases which give the tenant a right to end the lease early. It is therefore vital that tenants are able to exercise breaks where they exist. The opportunities to make mistakes when drafting or serving a break notice is on the increase. Many tenants are caught out by serving break clauses incorrectly or by failing to comply with strict conditions set out in

than not a mistake in relation to prescribed information or detail will render the break notice void. For example, do not guess the identity of your landlord but check the registered proprietor at the Land Registry and check that there has been no subsequent change of name at Companies House. 2. Ensure that the notice is served correctly – the lease will often prescribe the method of service and any minor mistake may invalidate the notice. For example, if the lease states that the notice needs to be served by hand at the registered office, then it will be

Recent case law highlights the importance of ensuring absolute compliance where the conditions or procedure to exercise the break are prescribed in the lease. their lease. In particular, recent case law highlights the importance of ensuring absolute compliance where the conditions or procedure to exercise the break are prescribed in the lease. Some solicitors are also getting this wrong on a regular basis, increasing the number of negligence actions year on year! If you are an occupier of commercial premises (retail, warehouse, offices or otherwise) and are intending to exercise your break clause, we would suggest the following useful tips: 1. Your advisors must draft the break notice correctly. Although certain minor mistakes can be excused, more often

58 The Jeweller December 2010

invalid if served by first class post! A court found a notice served on blue paper to be void because the lease said it should be served on pink paper! 3. Ensure that any conditions are met – perhaps the most striking case, demonstrating how strict the courts can be, was where a right to break was made subject to the tenant complying with its covenants, including the obligation to redecorate. Although the tenant redecorated the premises the court held that the redecoration was insufficient because the lease specified that the premises should be decorated with three coats of paint and the tenant had used only two!

4. Seek legal advice well in advance of the notice period set out in the break clause giving your solicitors sufficient time to properly address all of the above issues and eradicate mistakes. Clearly during lease negotiations it is important for both landlords and tenants to address the subject of break clauses early to eradicate future problems as far as possible. But what if your requirements have changed and the break date is a few years away? Don’t panic because you may be able to renegotiate better terms with your landlord early, in return for giving up your right to break. For example, this could include securing a further rent-free period or extending the length of the lease but at a lower rent that is more manageable. Landlords are often happy to discuss these possibilities because of the risk of incurring a rental void if the tenant subsequently exercises the break clause later on. We have found that landlords may renegotiate terms even where there is no break clause so it is always sensible to discuss any such possibilities with your professional advisors – don’t suffer in silence! Nick Carter, Partner and Head of Property Boyes Turner Solicitors www.boyesturner.com

Current PANDORA STOCKIST who is increasingly becoming disenchanted with the tiresome obstacles, excuses, forced purchasing and poor continuity of stock.

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PANDORA STOCK Bracelets - silver and leather. Charms - Silver, Murano Glass, Stone set, 14ct & Silver and Gold, Jewellery and Watches. If you have surplus new Pandora stock you wish to move discreetly through your business then give me a call. Silver Bracelets (590702) £27 Silver Necklets (590702) £45 Leather Bracelets £14 Silver Charms £10 Murano Glass £12 Wood £12 Silver clips £11 etc, etc. Payment to be made by return Contact Keith Peters - Managing Director The Jewellers Guild Ltd 15, Sanderson Arcade, Morpeth, Northumberland, NE61 1NS Tel - O1670 518000 or Email: keith.peters@virgin.net in strictest confidence. www.thejewellersguild.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 59

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

Gemmology and the Gem Market IRV co-ordinator Sandra Page reports on Gem-A’s action and information-packed one-day conference. he Gem-A’s 2010 Conference took place at the Hilton London Kensington hotel on Sunday 7th November and the Institute was delighted to be invited to attend for the first time to promote itself and its members and fellows to the 130 plus Conference participants. This is truly an international event attracting delegates from as far afield as Canada, the USA and Sir Lanka, as well as many European countries and all parts of the UK. Institute chairman Jonathan Lambert attended with me, in what turned out to be an highly informative, entertaining and enjoyable day. Dr Jack Ogden, the Gem-A’s chief executive opened the Conference and was supported during the day by James Riley, chairman of the Gem-A’s Board and Professor Andrew Rankin, the Gem-A’s president. Prior to the start of the Conference participants were able to purchase instruments and books from Gemmological Instruments Ltd and view displays of organic gemstones, glass filled rubies and fossilised opals, as well as learn from Alan Hodgkinson how to use his visual optic techniques. In addition to the

60 The Jeweller December 2010

Institute, the Scottish Gemmological Association, The GemGuide and the GemA’s educational, laboratory and membership were also present. The first guest speaker was Andrew Cody from Cody Opals (Australia) Pty Ltd, Melbourne, Australia who gave an illustrated presentation on the origins of opal (during the Cretaceous period) and included the

natural history, geology and gemmology of this beautiful gemstone. Cody is particularly smitten by opalised fossils and had an impressive selection on display for delegates to see – including a fossilised dinosaur poo – cue for a ripple of laughter among the audience. Unfortunately, the next scheduled guest speaker, Gioia de Simone was unable to attend due to family commitments but the popular and entertaining Rui Galopim de Carvalho from Portugal came to the Gem-A’s rescue and presented an illustrated talk on Portugal’s breathtaking historical jewels including many beautiful religious artefacts which are on display in a number of the country’s museums. Next on the podium was Christopher P Smith from the American Gemological Laboratories in New York, who gave a presentation on rubies – taking a look at the increasing quantities of treated stones

Testing visual optics with Alan Hodkinson, president of the Scottish Gemmological Association

IRV Review |

Rui Galopim de Carvalho

coming onto the market, many of which he referred to as composites as they contain so much glass. He showed delegates what to look for to help identify these stones but also warned that some treatments are very sophisticated and need the use of advanced apparatus. This is a major concern for many delegates at the Conference – including a number of the Institute’s members and fellows. Following lunch Michael Hügi of the Swiss Gemmological Society in Bern entertained delegates with an illustrated presentation which revealed the hidden beauty of inclusions in gemstones using the latest digital photomicrography. The fifth speaker for the day, Dr Michael Krzemnicki from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute in Basel, reported on the variety of gemstones which have passed through its laboratory in the last year. He paid particular attention to cultured pearls, illustrating the lengths some farmers are going to to bring to the market place pearls which are not what they appear to be. He also caused many a gasp among the audience when describing the size of some of the gemstones he had been privileged to handle. Maggie Campbell Pedersen’s presentation was on amber, copal and some questionable ‘green stuff’ which she assured delegates was not Kryptonite! She spoke of her purchases from the likes of eBay and shared her testing methods with delegates – the use of a hammer not being

one that she would recommend for most gemstones! She shared her knowledge of the beauty of amber with the audience and reported on the various ways used today to alter the appearance of resins to produce green material. The last speaker for the day was Richard Drucker of Gemworld International Inc of Illinois, who touched on a subject very dear to valuers’ hearts: the prices of gemstones. He took a historical look at the price of gems, such as emerald, tying the rise and fall (and vice versa) in prices to world events, political intervention, changing demand and, of course, such issues as treatments. As a non-gemmologist I was concerned that the day would be very scientific but I was amazed by the variation in the presentations and surprised just how relevant the majority of it was to the Institute of Registered Valuers. Fortunately the Conference is open to non-members of the Gem-A so I highly recommend this event to all IRVs and suggests they keep an eye out for the announcement of the date of the 2011 Conference. After the Conference a number of delegates stayed on to join in the Gem-A Dinner and Disco. After the meal Dr Ogden informed guests that this was the last Conference for Mary Burland, the Gem-A’s director of publications and organiser of the Conference, as she is retiring at the end of the year after 46 years with the Association (part of which included working with the NAG before the two bodies split in 1990).

Mary Burland, who is retiring from Gem-A, with Richard Drucker.

Representatives of the Scottish Gemmological Association (MIRV Gillian O’Brien and Brian Jackson) presented Burland with a handmade silver brooch set with smoky quartz and on behalf of the American Gem Trade Association Richard Drucker presented her with an invitation to attend their Gala Dinner in Tucson next February. In conjunction with this invitation, the GemA presented her with flights and hotel accommodation for a week at the 2011 Tucson Gem Show, an event she has always longed to attend. Delegates at the conference

In addition to the one-day Conference the Gem-A also arranged a number of seminars and tours before and after the Conference. On Saturday Ted Themelis ran a one-day seminar on the latest heat-treatment of ruby and sapphire; on Monday FIRV John Benjamin held a one-day seminar on jewellery design, taking participants on a thousand year tour of the evolution of international jewellery design. Tuesday offered a half-day workshop on photomicrography with Conference guest speaker Michael Hügi; a private viewing of the Crown Jewels at the Tower of London and an evening presentation on the Magic World of Diamonds with Marijan Dundek, author of the best-selling guide Diamonds. Monday night also saw the Association’s Graduation Ceremony and Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall. We offer our congratulations to FIRV Shirley Mitchell and MIRV Jacqueline Sanders who both received their Diamond Grading Diplomas at the ceremony.

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Regular

Notebook

of jewellery are turned on their head by the creator who works with materials as diverse as silver-gilt and gold and plastic, lacquer and digital print. The book accompanies an exhibition to be held in Brescia and Munich early next year.

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Books Paul Flato Jeweler to the Stars (£45.00, ACC Publishing Group) It’s possible that you have never heard of him, but in fact Paul Flato might be described as Hollywood’s first celebrity jeweller. Even the briefest skim through this gorgeously illustrated book will tell you that these were jewels to get a person (such as Greta Garbo and Katherine Hepburn) noticed. Of German origins and born in Texas, he became apprenticed to a New York jeweller in 1921, then started his own

Sales & Exhibitions December Now until 8th Jan 2011, Dazzle, National Theatre foyer, London Recent graduates will be among the 80+ contemporary jewellery designers exhibiting at this fair which has been running since 1981. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com 21st Nov-8th Jan 2011, Dazzle, Manchester Town Hall

business two years later. At the height of his career he was more famous than Tiffany or Harry Winston. Now: Jewels by Norman Weber (£25.00, Arnoldsche) The work of German jewellery artist Norman Weber – about as uncompromising as you can get in terms of attitude and approach – is explored for the first time in this book, whose illustrations match his love of the surreal and the sensual. All classic notions

A record number of new designers will be exhibiting at this show, which will be open seven days a week. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

in the pieces on loan from public and private collections. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

January 13th-6th Feb: Future Map 10, Kentish Town, London NW5 An exhibition of graduating artists – including jewellery designers – from the six colleges of the University of the Arts London. www.arts.ac.uk/futuremap/

January 23rd-26th: Scotland’s Trade Fairs, Scottish Exhibition Centre, Glasgow Design-led as well as volume gift collections from around 500 companies showing fashion, accessories, china and glass as well as jewellery from both new designers and established names like Sheila Fleet. www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk

14th Jan-27th Feb: Alchemists, New Brewery Arts, Cirencester An exhibition showing the work of around 26 contemporary jewellery artists who work with precious as well as unusual materials www.newbreweryarts.org.uk

A piece by Jacqueline Mina at Dialogues in Gold

62 The Jeweller December 2010

Art Meets Jewellery: 20 years of Galerie Slavik, Vienna (£35.00, Arnoldsche) This book marks the 20th anniversary of Renate Slavik’s international contemporary jewellery-art gallery in Vienna. The learned antique dealer is renowned for bringing together the most diverse and exciting group of talents – some established, some up-andcoming – working with the most diverse range of materials, from paper, plastic and sheet metal to the more ‘noble’ gold, pearls and diamonds.

31st Jan-26th Feb: Jacqueline Mina: Dialogues in Gold, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London Artist-goldsmith Mina will show her original, fused and textural jewlllery in this exhibition that will focus on the highlights of 30 years of her studio work. Her free and innovative approach to precious materials can be seen

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs

Jewellery by Melissa James on show at Scotland’s Trade Fairs

APPOINTMENTS

We are an established independent jeweller and have an extensive workshop on our premises with three goldsmiths handling customer’s repairs and commissions. We are looking for a sales consultant to join our rapidly expanding business. The successful applicant will have previous experience and a good knowledge of diamonds and other precious stones. Salary dependent on experience and ability. Applications: If you are interested in joining us please send your CV to: Mr Matthew Dunn, Woods Jewellers, 5-7 Chipstead Valley Road, Coulsdon, Surrey CR5 2RB or e-mail it to: matt@woodsjewellers.co.uk

We are a family run jewellers established 47 years ago, currently with four shops located in Cheshire. We are looking for a full-time Mobile Manager to relieve the Partners and existing Managers as required. In addition we have a vacancy for a full time Sales Consultant. The successful applicant will have a proven track record of retail jewellery experience. Own transport is essential. Salary will be commensurate with experience and ability. Please send your letter of application including your C.V. to: Mr Michael Jones PR Jones Watchmaker & Jeweller 11 Chestergate, Macclesfield Cheshire SK11 6BX

Jewellery Project Lead Instructor £14,497-£16,390 p.a. inclusive 30 hours per week, 5 days over a 7 day period Much Hadham, near Bishop’s Stortford St. Elizabeth’s is looking to appoint a Lead Instructor, delivering programmes to people with learning disabilities enabling them to create jewellery for exhibition and sale. You will also support clients in their day to day activities including personal care, ensuring a therapeutic benefit for the individual. This is an exciting and unique opportunity to bring your talents, skills and enthusiasm to this Social Enterprise. Closing Date: 23rd December 2010 • Interviews: 7th January 2011 For an informal discussion please telephone Yvonne Smith, Senior Lead, on 01279 843451, ext 244. We offer a competitive employment package including a flexible shift pattern, commitment to staff development, supportive management and staff benefits, an optional contributory pension scheme, childcare voucher scheme, subsidised transport from Harlow and Bishops Stortford and a range of staff discounts for high street, leisure and gym. Download an application pack from www.stelizabeths.org.uk for further details. Alternatively e-mail: recruitment@stelizabeths.org.uk or contact reception on 01279 843451. St Elizabeth’s Centre is committed to safeguarding and promoting the welfare of children, vulnerable adults and young people. The successful applicant(s) will be required to undertake an enhanced criminal records check. We are an equal opportunities employer welcoming applications from all sections of the community. Registered Charity 1068661

RECRUITMENT Are you looking to recruit staff for retail, manufacturing, design, sales, jobbing, management, admin and finance? Advertise your jewellery and watch vacancies in The Jeweller magazine Appointments section and on the Jeweller Recruitment online site (www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk) simultaneously at very competitive rates. Call Ian Francis on tel: 020 7833 5500 or email him at: ian@cube-uk.com to book your recruitment advertising in The Jeweller magazine.

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Chain Manufacturers

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For Sale Jewellery Studio for sale in the heart of Western Australia’s southwest. • Shows consistently strong growth every year since being established in 2002. • Stock consists of a high quality handmade range supplemented with selected suppliers. • Would suit manufacturing jeweller, husband/wife team. • Well positioned, lucrative business. • Owners looking to semi-retire. • Further information on enquiry. Contact Mary: baroque@westnet.com.au

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Handmade jewellery All setting including channel, pavé etc. Repairs of all kinds Polishing, rhodium and black rhodium 18 carat and platinum ring mounts CAD and laser work undertaken Diamonds and coloured stones supplied Over 30 years experience Postal service

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(est. 1946)

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| Regular

The

Last Word We think that The Last Word in the last issue of 2010 should really go to our very own CEO here at The Jeweller Towers – Michael Hoare. He managed to find time between all those committee meetings to reveal his hidden depths and qualities. Personal Profile Michael Hoare joined the NAG in October 2000, having previously held a senior position at British Shops and Stores Association. His career has been mostly retail focused, and included spells in retail management and training consultancy before he joined the Drapers Chamber of Trade, which later absorbed the National Association of Retail Furnishers. He is currently the president of the Institute of Association Management and a Freeman of the Goldsmiths’ Company.

How would you describe your personal style? I like to feel that I am approachable and fair minded enough to hear both sides of an argument. Having said that I do like to challenge preconceptions and develop my own independent views. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? I’m still busy finding out. Every time I go somewhere new it becomes my favourite for a while. I was in Rome last year and Athens this year, and enjoyed them both. What three words describe you best… in your view Handsome, debonair, and humorous! … and according to others? Tall, receding, and angry! Clearly I have self awareness ‘issues’! Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? When I graduated in the seventies, we were suffering a depression and jobs were in short supply. To keep the wolf from the door, I took a job in retail management. Ultimately that experience laid the foundations of what proved to be a stimulating and rewarding career.

66 The Jeweller December 2010

However, if I had my time over maybe today I’d be doing something in the visual arts. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? I would banish conflict, exploitation, and environmental degradation; make supply chains completely transparent, and all products traceable; then we could settle the ethics debate. Do you know the price of a pint of milk? Yes! Don’t forget, I used to run a supermarket. To what do you attribute your success? There aren’t any magic formulas and luck invariably plays its part in success, but the oft quoted and variously attributed saying, “the more I practice, the luckier I get”, pretty much sums up my belief.

Tell us something not many people know about you… I’m an atheist, but interested in religion. Favourite shopping destination For sheer shopping immersion, you can’t beat the Mall of America outside Minneapolis with its 520 stores. Jewellery-wise it’s probably the Royal Exchange, in the City of London. If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery business, what career would you have chosen? If I hadn’t fallen into trade association management I’d probably be a penniless sculptor, which is what I trained for. What would you like to find under the Christmas tree? If we are talking about reality not fantasy, then a copy of A History of the World in 100 Objects, by Neil MacGregor, would be nice. What's your favourite festive tipple? Last year I made a quantity of sloe gin. The results were pretty good so I have increased my production this year and I am looking forward to tasting the results at Christmas! Quick fire (no deliberating) • Football or cricket? (Team?) Not really interested in either, but I follow the ups and downs of Oxford United. • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones • White or yellow metal? Yellow • Bentley or Roller? Neither. Not interested! • Delegator or control freak? My NAG colleagues had a mug printed for me with ‘You’re not the messiah. You’re just a very naughty boy!’ Go figure! • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Rolling Stones

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