Jeweller July 2001 by Zest Europe

the

Jeweller July 2011

£6.50

The Voice of The Industry

All that glisters the rise and rise of silver jewellery London Jewellery Week a round-up of the event’s highlights This summer’s best jewellery picks for children

The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

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Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

J U L Y

1 1

The Jeweller picks

Communiqué

Editor’s Letter

Industry News

Some of this summer’s best jewellery pieces for children

Brand profile: Fope

The Italian jewellery label, renowned for bold gold, takes the silver route

All that glisters

Belinda Morris reports on the growing interest in silver jewellery

BJA at London Jewellery Week

NAG News

Member of the Month

Education & Training

IRV Review

BJA News

Security

Ethical

Legal Jeweller

Opinion: Michael Hoare

Insurance Matters

Notebook

Display Cabinet

The Last Word

A review of the week and some of the key events in which BJA members took part

French fancies

Jo Young explains why a lack of modern monarchy

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

doesn’t mean a lack of Gallic royal jewellery

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. The National Association

Sales Director: Ian Francis

of Goldsmiths

Tel: 020 7613 4445

78a Luke Street,

Fax: 020 7613 4450

London EC2A 4XG

ian@jewellers-online.org

Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris Tel: 01692 538007

Cover Image In conjunction with Ti Sento Milano Judith Wade – UK Sales Manager Tel: 07834 490060 www.tisento-milano.com

bmorris@colony.co.uk BJA Marketing & PR Manager:

Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org

Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

Mary Brittain, Miles Hoare,

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Greg Valerio, Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare looks at the issues surrounding the insuring of jewellery as well as the Government’s difficulties in predicting and harnessing public opinion.

Cheap but not cheerful One of the hidden costs of cheap insurance is coming home to roost, according to a news story broadcast by the BBC last month. Hardly news to jewellers, you might think, but an item by BBC News reporter Susannah Streeter claimed that ‘insurance claimants face voucher confusion’ when claiming for loss or damage under their home contents policies, and asserted that insurers are being asked to be more open about the use of vouchers or prepayment cards for paying claimants; citing the example of Liz Strevens from Aylesbury who last September lost her wedding ring at Gatwick Airport, and whose claim was settled by a prepayment card for use in a high street jeweller. According to Mrs Strevens and her husband Tony, they had expected a cheque

At a time of austerity for many, it won’t be easy to galvanise the public behind this, but I think it behoves us all to try.

4 The Jeweller July 2011

allowing them to replace their wedding ring at a jeweller of their choice, and at a value which matched their loss. What they felt they got, to paraphrase, was a limited choice of undervalue rings that did not meet their expectations. There were various circumstances that complicated this particular case, but the sad thing is that their story will be all too familiar to jewellers up and down the land, who are being disadvantaged by this form of transaction, and often have to deal with disgruntled and disappointed customers. At the root of the problem is the insurance companies’ desire to maximise their profits (or limit their losses, dependent on your view), and the opacity of their documentation. NAG members have complained for many years that insurance companies were cutting them out of the insurance replacement market by insisting that their clients have their goods replaced by preferred suppliers with whom they have negotiated a discount. That may be all well and good when replacing a fridge or washing machine, but jewellery has emotional connotations. Equivalent quality and style are important factors in a fair replacement, and jewellers often have

longstanding relationships with their customers. But as more people cover their goods using general household or home insurance policies, which initially appear to be better value, they are belatedly discovering that they are inadvertently signing away their right to use a jeweller of their choice. The Insurance Ombudsman’s ruling from 2001, which clarified customers’ right to choose, gave jewellers some assistance and has been used by many to encourage clients to assert their claim successfully with their insurers. But the Ombudsman’s 2001 ruling is only part of the story. The Ombudsman will vary his decision according to what is fair in the circumstances as the recent Ombudsman News 92 shows. Our Institute of Registered Valuers FAQ page includes a link to a review of these issues. Our position remains clear: firstly we recommend customers seek guidance from a reputable broker, such as T. H. March; second, stress to customers the importance of explaining to the broker precisely what they expect their policy to cover, and read the small print before they sign; and last but not least we cannot over emphasise the importance of a valuation undertaken by a Member of the NAG Institute of Registered Valuers (MIRV). At a time of austerity for many, it won’t be easy to galvanise the public behind this, but I think it behoves us all to try.

Give us more rules In April the UK Government launched a drive to reduce regulation under the banner of The Red Tape Challenge. The idea was that every few weeks they would publish all regulations affecting one specific sector or industry, and ask the electorate to respond by giving their views on ‘what’s working and what’s not, what can be simplified and what

Comment | can be scrapped’. Based on that feedback, the Government promised to ‘start getting rid of unnecessary red tape’. Laudable you might think, and certainly no surprise to anyone who attended the NAG’s pre-election meeting at the Law Society, where pretty much the only thing all three candidates could agree on were the evils of over-regulation, and promises of ‘one in, one out’ measures and ‘sunset clauses’ were made. Anyway the coalition wasted no time, and what I have come to know as the Scrapheap Challenge was born. The first challenge was the retail sector, with electors asked to give their views on eight sets of regulations. We did our bit by challenging the implied threat to sweep away hallmarking, and the Sunday trading and Weights and Measures regulations. We also tried to get customers involved, but public opinion can be fickle! As I wrote in another magazine at the time, ‘Sometimes, in a spirit of revenge against bureaucracy, or to get even with petty lawmakers, we can make some strange judgment calls. One man’s meat is also another man’s poison, so while most people profess abhorrence of unnecessary legislation, what we really mean is we’re against limits on ourselves, but the other chap should be kept firmly in place by more punitive measures.’ Now, I make no claims to be able to predict the future, “Very perversely we are but a subsequent Daily Telegraph report had Vince being bombarded by Cable warning that businesses could end up with more rather messages from the than less regulation from the public saying please Government’s campaign. The Business Secretary highlighted increase regulation.” that members of the public and consumer groups were using the website to lobby hard for existing regulations to be maintained or increased, saying, “Very perversely we are being bombarded by messages from the public saying please increase regulation.” It seems it is down to the business community to make its own case. If we want growth, if we want expansion, if we need new businesses or we need new business premises, it’s up to us to make sure we are heard. Because, perversely, the public likes regulation! So what will be the outcome of this consultation? By the time you read this, the votes will be in, Ministers will be consulting more widely, and civil servants will be building their cases for and against change. No doubt some legislation will be trimmed, yet more will be written to take its place, and hopefully we’ll be satisfied with the outcome. As a result of their efforts on telly, the Scrapheap Challenge contestants get a bizarre malfunctioning contraption constructed from a pile of assorted junk. I wonder what we will get for ours!

The Voice of the Industry 5

Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

The all-important profit margin on most silver jewellery brands is considerably higher than conventional gold jewellery margins – which usually removes most traces of snobbery…

I recently read a thought-provoking feature in the Saturday Telegraph magazine concerning the various threats to life and livelihood faced by Pakistan’s cotton farmers and how an alliance of environmental groups and global clothing and retail companies is working to address the issues – like pesticide problems and climate change. Remind you of anything? Of course the cotton trade and the jewellery industry are two very different animals – but there are similarities. We wear cotton (thought of as ‘white gold’ in Pakistan) which we perceive as a very pure fibre, without a thought of the chemical pesticides that the poorest farmers are exposed to and the astronomical waste of water involved. Likewise, until very recently, we bought and sold gold and diamonds with barely a regard to their provenance and the very murky route to market. The Blood Diamond film brought that aspect to consumer attention in pretty dramatic fashion and now a Channel 4 Dispatches documentary has aimed to do the same thing with gold. All laudable stuff, but, as is so often the case, the need for impactive ‘jeopardy’ TV results in a programme that is heavily biased against the trade – in this case high street multiple retailers, who were not given the right to reply, despite offering to tell their side of the story. Perhaps there will be a more ‘feel-good’ follow-up documentary that shows how hard various bodies, companies and individuals are working to right these issues and make positive changes. We live in hope. If there is, the researchers would do well to to talk to some of the exhibitors at Essence – the posse of ethical jewellers who showed at Treasure during London Jewellery Week last month. The whole show was as inspirational as ever – so much talent in one subterranean space! And then there was the whole of London to cover over the five or so days – which the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton managed to achieve in heroic fashion. Read her whirlwind diary on page 48. One thing I definitely picked up during my foray around the Week’s events was the number of designers and brands working with silver. Once much-maligned by fine jewellers it is now the metal du jour, thanks in part of course to the eye-watering prices hikes in gold but also because, quite simply, it’s a beautiful, adaptable, user-friendly material that customers love. My report on the silver market and a few favourite pieces is on page 36.

Page 36 ... just as pieces from the Russian Crown Jewels helped further the Boleshevik cause that replaced the Romanovs in 1917... the French crown jewels became vital tools of revolution in France in the 1790s.

Meanwhile, have a fabulous summer and see you at IJL…

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 54

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

Kimberley Process meeting comes to inconclusive end he Kimberley Process Inter-sessional Meeting in Kinshasa last month ended in impasse with the week-long talks ending inconclusively over the future of exports from Zimbabwe’s Marange region. In the meantime, the WDC urges all members of the trade to deal only in rough diamonds that are accompanied by KP certificates that comply with the consensus decisions of the Kimberley Process. Avi Paz, president of the World federation of Diamond Bourses described the ‘breakdown’ of talks as having “the potential to hit the well-being of the entire, global diamond industry,” and added: “Some [KP] members clearly do not realise the enormous negative and, I fear, disastrous impact their conduct has and will have on the entire diamond supply pipeline.” Eli Izhakoff, president of the World Diamond Council, has taken a slightly less negative view of the turn of events, expressing “regret about the inconclusive end”. “I do not feel that we reached a dead end. Progress was being made, but we simply ran out of time,” he said. “We have to continue talking in order to reach the necessary consensus as soon as possible.

“I believe that all sides agree that what is at stake here is not only the wellbeing of the diamond business, but also the economic future of ordinary people living in the diamond producing areas. And this, of course, includes Zimbabwe, whose production provides an exciting new opportunity for economic prosperity in Africa. But, if the Kimberley Process is rendered ineffective as a result of indecision at the executive level, nobody really benefits. We have no alternative but to carry on looking for a solution,” Izhakoff added. “The Kinshasa meeting did not conclude as we would have liked, but it also did not end with any of the parties slamming the door on the KP. Despite their reservations about KP chair’s declaration, the US, EU, Canada and Australia all expressed continuing support for KP and stated their intention to continue searching for consensus. So did the representatives of civil society, who represent the third critical pillar supporting KP, along with government and the industry. So while we may be frustrated, we have to remain confident,” the WDC President said. In a rallying call at the meeting, Izhakoff, described the current period as “one of the

most difficult in the history of KP”. He urged all participants to correct past mistakes and “to return to the core principles that characterised the Kimberley Process when it was established” and that the system is about “humanity, not politics.” He went on to say that “The difficulty is not so much rooted in procedure and practice – although those clearly are issues that still need to be addressed – but more

in the sense of common purpose, which from the very beginning was the glue which held the KP together. It is this which is in danger of being corroded, and, if that happens, all that we have built over the past 11 years could fall apart.” His speech focussed on refuting what he described as a “popular pastime in the media and other circles” of questioning the relevance and long-term viability of KP. He reminded the audience of the core values and purposes of KP, but said that procedure and practice are issues that “need to be addressed” and that he remains committed to the reform and re-structuring of KP’s decision-making programme.

Greg Valerio scoops top award for his ongoing ethical efforts e know that he’s not really ‘ours’ but nonetheless we’re incredibly proud that our very own ethical jewellery writer Greg Valerio walked away with Global Campaigner of the Year at the Observer Ethical Awards 2011. Not only was he voted for by the paper’s readers, he also pipped Greenpeace to the position. Valerio has worked tirelessly to bring traceability, transparency and ecological standards to the jewellery industry and together with the Fairtrade Foundation has helped bring Fairtrade Fairmined Gold to the market. “Winning the award was amazing and a wonderful vindication for everyone in the fairtrade movement that real tangible change is possible,” says Valerio. “To be honest we have only just begun so this award is a marker in the sand of where we have come from and a signpost of what we still have to do to clean up the worlds most luxurious product. Onwards and upwards.”

Greg Valerio (second left) in the spotlight at the Observer Ethical Awards

8 The Jeweller July 2011

Industry News |

NAG and BJA join forces for ethics committee ith an aim of helping members in achieving ethical supply chains, the British Jewellers’ Association has united with the NAG’s Ethics Working Committee. Realising that many small businesses are faced with substantial challenges when trying to assess ethical credentials of suppliers, the BJA and NAG have together taken the step towards bridging the gap between British jewellers and international small scale producers. Both associations have connections with the Responsible Jewellery Council and CIBJO and are mindful of their contribution to the debate, but act in the best interests of their respective members. The launch of Fairtrade gold has heralded a surge in demand from jewellers who are eager to embrace fair trade and ethical values throughout their supply chain. However, many find themselves in a quandary as to how to integrate a traceable or credible system for selecting suppliers and for giving assurances to consumers. The committee will assess the feasibility of a system of auditable standards covering mining, metals, diamonds, gemstones, manufacturing and retailing. Experts from each field will be called upon to assess and comment on the standards, in order to develop a robust system which can be accessed by NAG & BJA members in the future. Vivien Johnston, founder of ethical jewellery brand Fifi Bijoux, has been appointed to steer the project. Greg Valerio, the force who brought Fairtrade gold to market, has pledged his support for the realisation of the standards.

Michael Hoare responds to Channel 4’s ‘Dispatches’ documentary on the gold trade “The programme raised some interesting and worthwhile points about some of the issues the jewellery industry currently faces. It was useful for consumers to understand the complexities which jewellers looking for ‘ethical’ supply chains are confronted with when trying to establish traceability in the gold supply chain within a current system not designed for transparency. It is undeniable that these issues remain a reality within the industry. However, the programme was, in my opinion, shot through with so many inaccuracies, half truths, and snap judgements that it is difficult to know where to start in de-constructing their argument. But what I do bitterly resent is the implication that the retail end of the chain simply doesn’t care, and that nothing has been done to address the problems which we know exist. The work of all the initiatives including the RJC was just glossed over and apparently dismissed out of hand. Achieving a fully transparent system takes international effort and both the NAG and the BJA remain committed to driving this forward in the British jewellery industry.”

S N I P P E T S Edox sponsors powerboat race Swiss watchmaker Edox is the official timing partner of the P1 Superstock Championship, which will include one-on-one match races. The partnership mirrors the deal that Edox has with the FIA World Rally Championship and UIM Class 1 Powerboat Championship. Edox recently celebrated its 125th anniversary and is renowned for producing the first water-resistant to 200 meters watch. In addition to its race-timing and results service, Edox is donating two watches worth £1,500 each to all five Grand Prix of the Sea race weekends. The watches will be awarded to the class-winning teams in both the P1 250 and P1 150 classes. The prizes are part of the company’s ‘Timing for Champions’ philosophy designed to reward champions and associate its name with winners in all fields of motorsport. The five-round championships began at the end of June in Jersey and will finish in Liverpool’s Albert Dock on September 10th and 11th 2011.

Warren James v. film studio bid North-east-based jewellery chain Warren James, which has a 25.9 per cent stake in Pinewood Shepperton, is thwarting plans for a property mogul’s takeover bid of the historic British film studios. Peel Holdings needs to own 90 per cent of Pinewood to be able to force through the takeover and as yet Warren James is resisting Peel’s 200p-ashare offer. (source: guardian.co.uk)

Treasures of Heaven jewellery commission

Rox named as Scottish Retailer of the Year

he Crafts Council and the British Museum Company have collaborated to commission three jewellers to make a limited edition set of jewellery inspired by the British Museum exhibition Treasures of Heaven: saints, relics and Alex Clamp devotion in medieval Europe Three makers were commissioned – Alex Clamp, Joanne Daly and Rina Tairo. All three took inspiration from the themes of the sacred and religious nature associated with Christian relics. The pieces will be on sale in the gift shop at the British Museum.

Independent jewellery retailer – and NAG member – Rox was named Scottish Retailer of the Year at last month’s Scottish Fashion Awards. Co-owners Kyron Keogh and Grant Mitchell were presented with their award at the Glasgow Science Centre in front of Samantha Cameron, Dame Shirley Bassey and Lulu who were among the hundreds of high profile guests at the event.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

S N I P P E T S Gem-A reports record growth The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) achieved record growth in 2010 with income from its gem education growing by 21 per cent over 2009. The resulting increase in the reserves of the London-based educational organisation will allow further investment in both updated and new courses. RJC update

IJL VIP Experience Competition nternational Jewellery London has launched a VIP Experience Competition ahead of the show. Visitors who register to attend by 5pm of 30th July will be entered for the prize draw, and the first prize is the IJL VIP experience for two. Ten runners up will also receive train or air tickets to the show. The winner and their guest will enjoy a two night stay at a London 4 star hotel, which will allow them to relax in style following their visit this September, and they will also receive train or air tickets to London. The VIP experience will start from the minute they arrive, with a Champagne welcome at the Boulevard Bar by a member of the IJL core team. The seminar programme is set to be impressive this year and the prize includes reserved seating in as many of the seminars as they would like to attend. “We like to make sure all of our visitors enjoy their experience at IJL – for example, the look and the feel of the show is important as it is such a key platform for the jewellery industry, and we receive positive comments on the layout, style and atmosphere. We already have initiatives such as the VIP Diamond Club, which brings top retailers and buyers to the show, and the IJL VIP Experience Competition is an excellent prize for one winner, providing them with a stylish experience throughout their entire trip,” commented event director Syreeta Tranfield. Visit www.jewellerylondon.com/register to enter the free prize draw and to register to attend IJL.

Dame Kelly Holmes cuts Cookson ribbon he new trade counter for Cookson Gold at Victoria Street in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter was opened last month by double Olympic gold medallist Dame Kelly Holmes. The NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare and Tom Green, chairman of jewellery company Charles Green were among the many industry members who watched Dame Kelly cut the ribbon to the airy and spacious new customer-friendly sales area.

10 The Jeweller July 2011

Within the last month British jewellery retail group Aurum Holdings has achieved Responsible Jewellery Council certification. The largest prestige watch retailer in the UK, the company includes Mappin & Webb and Goldsmiths and has 165 stores in total. The French jewellery house Chaumet became the 10th certified member last month, diamond manufacturer Venus Jewel was the first RJC member in India to achieve certification and events company JCK was announced as an official supporter of RJC. Dower & Hall launches ‘Marry me’ ring British jewellers Dower & Hall has launched a new ‘Marry Me’ proposal ring. The idea is based on the betrothal ring, which has for centuries symbolised the promise of a future together, sealed with the giving and accepting of a ring. The ring features a simple flat silver band engraved with those two life-changing words and a claw setting with a white topaz gem. The £150 cost of the ring is redeemable against an engagement ring which can be chosen from the house collection or commissioned by bespoke design. Fei Liu wins Lonmin Award British based jewellery designer Fei Liu has won this year’s Lonmin Design Innovation Award. This is the second time he has been honoured with the prize which recognises outstanding designs in platinum, having also received the award back in 2009. Liu’s entry for this year, which will be unveiled later this summer, features antique Chinese hairpins inlaid with iridescent blue kingfisher feathers cut and glued into silver.

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| Industry News

News from the stands at Salon, LJW o try and sum up, in a few words, the infinite variety of jewellery that could be seen at Salon at Treasure – let alone the whole of London Jewellery Week – would be near impossible. Needless to say, there was something to accommodate every taste – from the most refined and classic piece to the most dramatic and over-stated confection. There was the intricate and delicate; the bold and rough-hewn; the geometrically architectural and the organically free-flowing. Apart from a new pavilion curated by the Goldsmiths’ Company – highlighting the work of 45 jewellers selected from those chosen to show at the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Fairs – the event also offered a few other ‘firsts’ for trade and consumer visitors alike.

Tomasz Donocik launches a women’s collection Ex-RCA student and a former key member of Stephen Webster’s design team, Donocik established his own brand, specifically targeting men. At LJW he unveiled his first fine jewellery collection for women. This included ‘The Garden of Good & Evil’, a line inspired ‘by the paradox of the natural world’ which ‘fuses the sinister side of beauty with the evident’, which leads to fierce tsarvorite venus fly traps capturing delicate diamond-coated snowbells for instance. (UK Sales Agent for Tomasz Donocik London – Charlotte Johnson – 07904 153596, www.tomaszdonocik.com PureJewels addresses the trade Not only did Green Street’s PureJewels reveal the second fabulous line-up of its annual Platinum Heritage Collections, it also took the opportunity of the new Salon at Treasure event to launch a new trade venture. The interest among other jewellery retailers in the Collection was such that brand manager Jayant Raniga has taken the decision that pieces from two of 2010’s designers should be made available to others. The image at the top of this page shows ‘Becoming a Queen’ (one of the five 2011 designs) created by Ana de Costa, who was inspired by the ancient tradition of adorning and honouring a bride with loops, swirls and patterns of henna. www.purejewels.com

12 The Jeweller July 2011

Cindy Mangan Dennis introduces her own line Having established her jewellery career in 2007 with Dennis & Lavery Fine Jewellery (modern romantic engagement, wedding and eternity rings in platinum) and after ‘several years of conceptualising’, Cindy Dennis Mangan chose the occasion of LJW to launch her eponymous fashion-fine statement jewellery. In 18ct gold vermeil the Princess & the Python collection – inspired by dark fairytales – comprises a dramatically bold ring with matching pendant and earrings – all of which are also available in rose and black gold. www.cindydennismangan.com

Shawish

Ana de Costa

Cornerstone It’s still early days for viewing the entire collection, but nestling among his main line of fine jewellery pieces at Salon, were a few new items from goldsmith Paul Spurgeon’s most recent enterprise. The Cornerstone project is a collaboration between Spurgeon and Soweto born and based jeweller Nqobile Nkosi (which we first wrote about in the April 2010 issue) which is offering skills and employment to craftspeople in South Africa. The resulting collection is a fusion of African creative sensibilities and European influence (fresh and distinctive with a global appeal) and made from materials sourced, wherever possible, locally – in order to eliminate unnecessary import costs and minimise environmental damage. www.paulspurgeondesign.co.uk Shawish displays its vibrant works of art One of the pop-up shops at Salon at Treasure was truly a luscious treasure trove occupied by a fine jewellery brand that is new to the UK – Shawish. The Geneva-based company, run by brothers Mohamed and Majdy Shawesh and founded in 1910, specialises in intricately crafted pieces, many inspired by natural forms, in white, yellow or rose gold, set with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies and amethysts. In April this year Shawish debuted its journey to create ‘The World’s first Diamond Ring’ – that is, a ring made in its entirety from a single diamond. www.shawish-jewellery.com

Industry News |

Runner-up – H Johnson

First prize – Lynleys Jewellers of Eastbourne

Runner-up – CJ Vinten

Joint second prize – Josephs

Joint second prize – Jeremy France

LJW – winning windows ack in April The Jeweller – together with the NAG – announced a window display competition to help build excitement for London Jewellery Week. We hoped to see ideas that encapsulated the buzz and innovation of LJW and, of course, our industry as a whole. As we go to press the deadline for entries has arrived and we’ve been greatly encouraged by the response to our call. Each and everyone demonstrates the creativity that we knew was out there! Patrick Fuller, president of the NAG and chairman of Weston Beamor was so struck with the idea of the competition that he immediately offered magnum bottles of champagne to the top three entries. “What a great idea – window display is very important in my eyes,” he says. In fact it was impossible to pick just three winners (never mind one), so we will be sending a bottle of fizz to a further four of our favourites. The first prize, as promised is a pair of tickets to the RHS Hampton Court Show and goes to Lynleys Jewellers of Eastbourne. Their four fun, colourful and very summery windows take different themes – beach, under water, tennis, garden – with well-thought out ideas (gold-chain ‘water’ flowing from a watering can into a gold chain ‘pond’ for instance) and we felt that passers-by would be compelled to stop and look. The two second prizes go to Josephs Jewellers of Ormskirk – we loved the bright green highlights of the props and stands – and to Jeremy France of Winchester whose ‘pearls’ window looks luxuriously sophisticated with its golden highlights. The four runners-up are: CJ Vinten, Leigh-on-Sea; Diamond Gallery Jewellers, Bracknell; Finnies, Aberdeen and H Johnson, Nuneaton. Congratulations and thanks to everyone who took the time and trouble to enter.

Runner-up – Finnies

Runner-up – Diamond Gallery

The Voice of the Industry 13

| NAG News

NAG at Pewter Live his year’s Pewter Live 2011 focused on design, firstly with an Open brief that tasked entrants to design a suitable piece of pewter, finished to a standard of excellence, which the Company could purchase to present to the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards. The resulting response certainly didn’t disappoint, with seven of the diverse entries making it through to the final. After much deliberation the winner was announced as Alfred Pain with his design for a Pewter chandelier. A close second was Sam Williams of AE Williams with his finished design for a Flagon and bowl of superb quality. The student competition consisted of three categories: Interior, Architectural & Furniture; Decorative Arts and Fashion – From Jewellery to the Total Look. The winner of the latter category was Rachel Bletcher of South Devon College. All the winners – chosen by a panel chaired by Sebastian Conran – can be found on the Pewterers’ website www.pewterers.org.uk David Nichols, design editor for the Daily Telegraph presented the prizes at the presentation ceremony on 9th June, while Alderman & Sherriff Fiona Woolf declared Pewter Live officially open. Once again the NAG was the proud sponsor of this prestigious event. Pictured is Frank Wood, deputy chairman of the NAG, who attended the event on the Association’s behalf.

‘Grow Your Own’ at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show t this year’s Spring Fair Jewellery Show the NAG launched its ‘Grow Your Own’ campaign to encourage businesses to test out ‘The Big Society’, by preparing the ground to grow their own green shoots of recovery. As part of the campaign launch the NAG invited attendees of Spring Fair to enter a prize draw with the chance of winning a pair of tickets to Chelsea’s world renowned horticultural event, the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. The lucky winner, Peter Bramwell of Bramwell’s Jewellery in Durham, bagged the prize of a brilliant day out at one of London’s most popular events. Peter, who happens to be an NAG member and part of the NAG Institute of Registered Valuers was delighted with his prize. “My wife and I had looked forward to the show for weeks,” he said when we caught up with him after the event. “We are both keen gardeners, but probably would never have made the trip had we not won the tickets, since London is a bit of a trail from Durham. We had a wonderful time, and would definitely consider going again, if we got the chance.” The NAG would like to thank Peter and all other NAG members for their support in the NAG’s Grow Your Own campaign, which is really beginning to blossom. To continue sowing the seeds of growth, the NAG team was in full bloom at this year’s Hatton Garden Festival, as part of London Jewellery Week last month. While a week later, the NAG’s Executive Development Forum was doing a little more potting up of plans for success at the EDF Oxford Congress. For more information on growing your own please contact the NAG on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org or ritu@jewellers-online.org

14 The Jeweller July 2011

IJL 2011 seminar programme announced T

he IJL seminar programme for this year has now been announced, with three workshops being hosted by the NAG alone. A little expert advice can go a long way and make all the difference to your business and as the seminars are free to attend and can be very popular we recommend that you arrive early for the first-come, first-seated events. The three specific NAG workshops are: Security, keep it simple! Sunday 04 Sep 2011, 10:00-11:00am For the jewellery industry security is an essential element to the business; protecting staff and stock are major considerations. But how effective is your security? How can you improve? And what are the police doing about it? Speaker: Mr Mark Beale, crime prevention coordinator, Metropolitan Police SaferGems – a beautifully simple crime prevention initiative Monday 05 Sep 2011, 14:30-15:30pm An explanation of the backdrop to this groundbreaking jewellery industry security initiative; the partners involved in its development; why the initiative is vitally important for retail jewellers and the successes it has achieved over the past 18 months. Speaker: Mr Alan Townsend, chair, SaferGems Industry / Police Liaison Group Market towns; their health, their role, their future Tuesday 06 Sep 2011, 15:00-16:00pm This interactive workshop will focus on three specific aspects of market towns. This will include a review of their economic performance over the last three years, dispelling myths and providing some interesting insights. Speaker: Mr Mike King, senior consultant, Action for Market Towns View the full programme in more detail at: www.jewellerylondon.com/seminars

NAG News |

London Jewellery Week hat a wonderful event London Jewellery Week was! We hope that many of you managed to find time to experience it in some way or another. This year seems to have been the biggest and the best by far. The NAG was of course in the middle of it all, by representing our members at the Jewellery Show Salon and the Hatton Garden Festival.

CEO Michael Hoare and his team attended the Salon – the first ever trade day at LJW, which took place on the opening day of Treasure (Thursday 9th). “It was an astounding exhibition, showcasing the wealth of London’s jewellery talent,” he commented. “As usual, the cream of the crop is on display and I’ve enjoyed every minute – so it’s met our expectations!” Faye Hadlow, Henrik Dinesen and Stacy Simpson manning the NAG stand in Hatton Garden

The NAG team was also in full attendance as the sun shone down on the Hatton Garden’s British seaside-themed street party on the Saturday. Master jewellers lined the street to give demonstrations on all aspects of jewellery making from CAD design to engraving and bead-making to diamond polishing. Among the beautiful jewellery on display the NAG was promoting the Association’s Grant of Arms to the general public, along with the many education courses that the NAG provides. We also tried to ensure that anyone and everyone got one of the much sought-after NAG freebie bags. Even the Pearly Kings and Queens were able to secure one before the day was out! The NAG’s Stacy Simpson meets some pearly kings and queens

Busy day at third EDF Congress he Saïd Business Centre was once again the venue for the EDF Oxford Congress held last month. Members and guests of the EDF spent the day analysing results, predicting trends, and exploring the marketing benefits of social media, courtesy of sponsors Domino. As EDF groups grow steadily, so the level and robustness of data collected by the initiative grows. Reviewing the year’s trading results to date, scheme facilitator Mike McGraw detected an emerging north-south divide, confirming that the UK market is far from homogeneous. Following the introduction in 2010 of the Advanced Selling programme, the NAG has also invested in its JETPro modular programme, further honing the skills of young executives destined to play their part in business succession. Predicting a return to steady growth in 2013, a revitalisation of the high street partly driven by localism, and a refocusing on specialist shops, McGraw noted that this would be achieved after radical pruning of some retail ‘deadwood’ in the intervening years. Aside from concerns around employment legislation, confidently explored by Jane Hilyer and Julie Sillito of Aaron and Partners, the focus of the conference was very much on the future. The NAG having commissioned a study to benchmark the current state of their social media awareness, EDF members were keen to explore a subject which is exciting and alarming in equal measure. Benchpeg founders Rebecca and Howard van Rooijen were on hand to give guidance and encouragement and Maia Adams of Adorn insight described emerging international fashion themes which will percolate through jewellery design next year.

New Member Applications Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email her at: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Maxim (Bernard Maximin), Luton

Allied Applications Foundation Jewellery, Reading

Alumni Applications Julian Cousins, Faversham

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on tel: (029) 2081 3615.

Upgrading from Member to Fellow Susan E Pennington MIRV PJValDip FNAG FGA DGA, Ormskirk.

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

NAG member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Amy Oliver speaks to David Dudley of David Dudley Jewellery in Marlborough, Wiltshire. The company has recently won the prestigious ‘Best of Wiltshire Award’ and has been voted ‘Best Jewellers’ by the readers of the Wiltshire Gazette & Herald newspaper. Congratulation on the awards! The people of Wiltshire obviously love the shop – what do you think makes you stand out? Thank you. We feel honoured to have been voted the best jeweller in Wiltshire. Clearly Marlborough is a wonderful town to come shopping in. I do invest heavily in presentation and over the past six months we have designed a new colour scheme for our window displays and the exterior of the shop. All of this is complemented by a stunning new lighting system which has dramatically enhanced the jewellery.

Our customers not only come from all parts of England but also Europe. They love our selection of modern quality stock, which is all either bought or designed by me. The customers love my staff, all of whom have taken JET courses, giving them confidence and knowledge to sell the services we provide. As well as designing pieces yourself, you also sell some stunning pieces from a range of European designers – is there one particular designer or collection which has captivated you? Two main collections give my shop that difference – Erwin Reich from Germany and Ponte Vecchio from Italy. Both feature coloured gemstones as well as diamond set pieces. The designs are strong and offer our customers something distinctly different.

16 The Jeweller July 2011

Is the bespoke design service you offer popular? What are the most typical pieces of jewellery you are asked to create? The design side of our business has always been an important factor of the business ever since we opened in Marlborough over 20 years ago, with customers firstly being inspired by my own stock. Engagement rings and fashion statement rings are the most popular, with pendants, earrings and bangles following behind. The bespoke design side of the business is what I love doing most of all and I get great pleasure in helping customers design their own jewellery as well as giving inherited pieces having a new face lift. As of 2011 you have stopped selling Chinese jewellery due to the exploitation of the Zimbabwean people and their land. In what ways has this impacted on your business? Having spent my childhood in Zimbabwe I am saddened by what I see today. The Chinese market gives nothing back to help the starving populace. In my opinion these are blood diamonds. I have never purchased much Chinese jewellery, so my decision not

to purchase any more in future until this matter is resolved has had a positive result. My customers love the fact that I am selling only British and European jewellery and support me. It is imperative that we support our own industry and craftsmen for the future of us all. Could you share a story with our readers about memorable customers. Is there one that comes to mind? Some of my youth was also spent living in Nairobi where I often return to purchase my Tanzanites. I was commissioned to set a beautiful cushion cut 12ct Tanzanite into a diamond feature clasp with three rows of 9mm cultured pearls. Recently the customer visited Buckingham Palace to have dinner with the Queen, and when she was introduced, Her Majesty commented on how beautiful the Tanzanite was in the necklace. My customer was delighted and so was I. If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Month, please write in and tell us why! Send an email to: amyoliver@jewellers-online.org

| NAG News: Education & Training

NAG JET 2 goes digital n January this year, our flagship JET 1 course entered the Matrix and became the first of the NAG's distance learning courses to go online. Last month we reported on Cassie Tomkins, who was the first student to complete the JET 1 course in its all-new online format. With positive reports from student and tutor alike, the education department is now set to offer its JET 2 course through an online source. From August 2011 students will be able to exchange pens for a keyboard and mouse – and take to the web to complete their studies. Brian Dunn, long-standing tutor and NAG IRV Fellow, who has worked with the two systems running side by side, noted that “the online course delivers the same quality material, but also leaves a lot more time for tutors to do what they really should be doing – nurturing the student’s talents, and

assisting them in all aspects of their research. The speed of communication means questions can be answered almost instantly, and grades can be given at the touch of a button. It doesn’t differ to the paper-led course in content, but in ease it’s by far the winner.” These comments were also reflected in Cassie Tomkin’s first experience of the online learning environment. “I’ve already started the JET 2 course, as that’s how much I enjoyed doing the JET 1 programme”, she says. “Although the course is still great, I’ve found that not having everything right there for you – as it was in the online system – is much more time consuming. For JET 2 I will have to post my work, and although the contact I’ve had with my tutor has been good, it’s very different to the online system, where Brian Dunn was only a button click away.”

May’s Bransom Award winner

the start her special interest was to gain the best possible knowledge about diamonds,” she explains. “Her assignments were always on time, very well presented in superb detail and supported with good illustrations,” she adds. “From a marking aspect, all her work made for really enjoyable reading because

n this issue we celebrate another winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award. Held in conjunction with our friends at Bransom retail systems, each month tutors nominate the very best project for the competition. Selected by the external moderators, the award gives students the chance to be rewarded with a trip to the prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall, for the presentation of certificates at our annual student award ceremony. Those successfully completing all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. From assignments received this month, the prestigious honour goes to Sylwia Laskowska of Hettich in Jersey, Channel Islands. We’d like to congratulate Sylwia, who has managed to scoop the prize after being part of the industry for just a year, after spending the past 10 years in the catering trade. Her tutor, Anne Bray, is impressed with her dedication. “Although Sylwia joined the jewellery trade only last June, right from

18 The Jeweller July 2011

she wrote as she would have spoken it, using good customer dialogue to relate the technical issues of any given subject. If I had been a customer of hers I am sure I would have been happy and confident in the purchase I had just made and with the advice I had been given.” When we spoke about Sylwia’s work with the project moderator, they commented that

Victoria Wingate, education manager, and architect of this new learning experience wants to encourage all new students to consider taking the course online. “In one of our many feedback sessions we’ve seen a shift towards students wanting to submit their work to tutors via e-mail, or using the Facebook site to discuss questions. We wanted to react to the desires and needs of students by giving them the chance study in the way they want to study. We hope to continue success of our JET courses in this all new form,” she says. For more information on our JET Online courses, please visit the NAG website: www.jewellers-online.org Alternatively, you can contact our education & training department on tel: 020 7613 4445 Also, don’t forget to book your JET Tutorial! Dates for JET 1, JET 2 and JET Gemstone Autumn tutorials are also available on the NAG website and for further information contact the NAG’s education department at: jet@jewellers-online.org “the depth of coverage given to each section in this project is remarkable. It is far beyond what one would expect from a JET 1 candidate, and is highly commendable. All of the illustrations are first class, adding to the quality presentation of the project. It is not surprising that Slywia has received A* grades from her tutor for her first four pieces of JET 1 course assignment work, if the project is representative of the standards she set herself on the course. She’s a worthy winner of the JET 1 Project Award for May 2011 “It was a real shock to hear that I had won the award,” says Sylwia. “I’m really surprised, but it makes me happy that all the effort has paid off. I have received great support from both my tutor, my colleagues and the company I work for. After a year of really hard work it’s great to get some affirmation that it’s all be worthwhile. “I enjoyed the course so much that I’ve already signed up for the JET 2 course, starting in August,” she adds. “Although it’s not easy being from Jersey as I’m not able to attend as many tutorials, the distance learning aspect of it means that I can still get the most out of the course. With all the support from my colleagues I will hopefully get similar results in my JET 2 course.”

| NAG News: IRV Review

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

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W •

NAG at Loughborough 2011 Excitement is mounting for this year’s IRV Loughborough Conference, which promises to be more information, event and workshop-packed than ever. he NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers Loughborough Conference takes place at its usual venue, Loughborough University, over the long weekend of Saturday 24th to Monday 26th September. This year we are also offering accommodation on the Friday evening for those delegates who want to avoid traffic problems on the Saturday morning. The Conference itself starts, as usual, after lunch on the Saturday. Informal discussion sessions will be available and opportunities to take the Munsell Colour Test and/or a colour blindness test offered on the Saturday morning.

This year’s line up of expert guest speakers includes: • Steve Bennett, managing director of GemsTV will be giving a main presentation showing how his company contributes to the jewellery industry • Peter Buckie, an invited member of the IRV Forum, returns with a workshop on valuation methodology • David Callaghan, returning for his 13th Conference, offers workshops on identifying jewellery • Rosamond Clayton, also a regular Conference lecturer and an elected member of the IRV Forum will run workshops on assessing mounted diamonds • Steve Collins from the London Assay Office is running workshops on hallmarks including fakes and forgeries • Richard Digby returns for a repeat of his popular workshops on cameos and intaglios (in conjunction with the Institute’s cameo guide On the Face of It) • Richard Drucker, the author of The Guide, the highly regarded gem price guide produced by Conference

20 The Jeweller July 2011

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supporter Gemworld International Inc, USA, is both running workshops on corundum treatments and pricing, and giving a main presentation on gemstone marketing trends and industry issues Hazel Forsyth, senior curator for Medieval and Post-Medieval in the Department of Archaeological Collections & Archive at the Museum of London, will be giving a main presentation on the unique, world famous Cheapside Hoard Doug Garrod & Claire Mitchell from the Gem-A (also supporters of the Conference) are running more of their popular practical workshops on gem testing Kerry Gregory’s first contribution to the Conference as a lecturer, is running workshops on using the polariscope representatives from the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers will be demonstrating the latest developments to their GuildPro valuation software Peter Hering, member of the NAG’s Valuations Committee, is running workshops on cultured pearls Harry Levy, an officer of the International Diamond Council and

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recently elected President of the London Diamond Bourse, will be giving a main presentation on nomenclature Heather McPherson, past member of the IRV Forum and currently in charge of production of the Institute’s new valuation training programme, will outline developments in the Institute’s major educational project which leads to the new qualification CAT – the Certificate of Appraisal Theory FIRVs Shirley Mitchell & Michael Inkpen’s workshop aims to encourage more IRVs to offer valuation days Craig O’Donnell, the silver expert at the Birmingham Assay Office (its subsidiaries SafeGuard and AnchorCert are also supporting the Conference), offers delegates workshops on silver James Riley, chairman of the Gem-A, is running workshops that take a look at the second-hand jewellery market FIRV Barry Sullivan & Adam Georgiou will give workshops on identifying different methods of manufacture including CAD MIRV Geoff Whitefield & Haywood Milton’s workshops will follow on from those they ran in 2009 and 2010 on customised watches Stephen Whittaker from Fellows, another of this year’s Conference supporters, offers a main presentation giving delegates an insight into the auction market and how it has changed over the years.

We feel fairly confident in saying that you won’t find this many experts in one place anywhere else! The Conference is open to anyone in the trade, from those who have been in it for more years than they care to remember to those who are just starting out. And there is something for everyone. Available on a residential or non-residential basis, we encourage members to attend the whole event, but all are welcome… if only for part of it. A brochure and booking form are available from Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615 or email: irv@jewellers-online.org The Institute is extremely grateful for the support of Bransom Retail Systems Ltd, Fellows, the Gem-A, Gemworld International Inc, T H March & Co Ltd and SafeGuard & AnchorCert.

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| BJA News

BJA membership at all time high

Opening the meeting chief executive Simon Rainer, stated that the BJA has represented jewellery makers since 1887 and is proud to still be working with so many talented craftspeople, such as those showing at Treasure. He also congratulated Della Tinsley of London Jewellery Week and Julie Driscoll from EMAP Connect on staging an excellent show. Speaking to an 80-strong audience, BJA chairman Michael Hughes, then gave his Annual Report and spoke of his pleasure that many of the objectives he set for the Association, when he took over the role of chairman in 2010, have now come to fruition. He also praised chief executive, Simon Rainer for the progress he has made

Michael Ferraro of T H March with Lindsey Straughton of the British Jewellers’ Association

here was an extremely upbeat feel to the British Jewellers’ Association’s 2011 Annual General Meeting which was held on 9th June. The event was staged at ‘Salon’ during London Jewellery Week to coincide with the launch of this trade day at the designer-maker exhibition ‘Treasure’ at Victoria House in Holborn.

BJA Chairman Michael Hughes (right) with Jason Holt of Holt’s Academy / Holt’s Lapidiary

in understanding the needs of the membership and providing new relevant services. There was praise too for the Association’s National Committee – the group of volunteers drawn from throughout the industry who help to direct its operational issues. “We have a broad range of skills and people of great calibre to draw on,” he said.

Sarah Jordan joins BJA committee The prize-winning designer jeweller, Sarah Jordan has been coopted to join the British Jeweller Association’s National Committee and took up her position at the AGM in June. Sarah, who is a past winner of the both the ‘UK Luxury Jeweller of the Year’ and ‘UK Designer of the Year’ awards is extremely wellknown and well-respected for her design talents and her iconic jewellery is sold throughout the UK, Europe and Japan.

Re-elected to the National Committee

BJA chief executive Simon Rainer with Christoffer Ritzau of The Danish Jewellers’ Association

22 The Jeweller July 2011

Jewellery retailer Vanessa Burkitt from Catherine Jones of Cambridge; gemstone dealer Richard Haruni of International Gemstones; Nick Kasler of jewellery manufacturer Alfred Terry and Barry Bennett of precious jewellery supplier Gecko were all re-elected to the National Committee for a further two-year term to represent those areas of the trade in which they work.

BJA News | Hughes was also keen to stress the ongoing collaboration between the BJA and the National Association of Goldsmiths. “We now have representatives on each others’ committees and are, for the first time ever, to share a stand at IJL in September. It is essential that we are seen to be working together and that we provide a united voice for the industry. Drawing the threads together make a sum greater than its parts,” he said. The areas where this close collaboration is most apparent are security and ethical issues and Hughes confirmed that the NAG’s ‘Safer Gems’ security initiative in conjunction with T H March is now to be made available to BJA members.

Louise Young, EMAP Connect; Julie Driscoll, The Jewellery Show; designer maker Cindy Dennis Mangan

BJA AGM – Creativity, Craftsmanship and Community he Goldsmiths’ Institute, the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths’ new building in Clerkenwell, looks set to provide a terrific facility for the jewellery industry as Peter Taylor, its Director of Training and Technology, told attendees at the BJA’s recent AGM where he gave the keynote address. When Peter Taylor attended the interview for his current job ten years ago, one of the things he suggested to the interviewing panel as a way forward for The Goldsmiths’ Company was that it should buy a building and develop its own workspace and training facility for the trade. They clearly liked his idea as 10 years on his vision is about to become a reality. “It’s the largest project I’ve ever done and it has been very challenging, with a massive learning curve,” he said. The new building in Clerkenwell is still undergoing the process of conversion but, as Taylor explained, its main aims are to foster creativity, craftsmanship and community within the jewellery and silversmithing sectors.

“Creativity is important for the whole of the UK. It’s something that applies not only to design but also to how we present ourselves to the world. While craftsmanship and understanding how things are made is an investment in our future. We also hope that in two or three years time those of you here today may all be sitting in our exhibition space having your AGM as part of the wider jewellery community. ” he said. The new building, which was built as one of London’s first Board Schools in 1887, This image and below: artist’s renditions of the interior of the new building

was being used by Central Saint Martin’s design faculty before it was bought by The Goldsmiths’ Company. As Taylor explained, the original school buildings will be kept but will have a new modern extension to create four floors of studios and workshops as well as conference space and a café. While part of the building will offer access to the public, the rest will be highly secure to provide a place where jewellers can work in safety and where major exhibitions can be staged.

Another example of working together came, he said, with the Government ‘Red Tape Challenge’ when interested parties from throughout the industry spoke with one voice to fight for the retention of the hallmark. “We are still awaiting the outcome but thanks to our collaborative efforts over 5,000 people responded to the Government, almost all of them on our side,” he said. Hughes final point related to membership of the Association. “One of my key objectives has been to grow the number of companies that belong to The BJA and I am pleased to be able to report that we now have reached my target of a 1,000 members – an all time record,” he concluded.

“We will be offering starter studios and workshops for commercial lease as well as staffed studios and we are already two thirds full without actively marketing,” he said. As well as speaking about the Institute, Taylor told his audience about his department’s role in supporting design and technology in the industry in general and about the extensive work it carries out with both under- and post-graduate students. This includes the provision of metal bursaries to allow them to work in precious metals for their degree shows and a Summer School for undergraduates during which they have the chance to meet experts from various sides of the industry and to visit workshops and see technology in action. The Company also provides prizes for exhibitors at ‘New Designers’ the UK’s largest annual display of work from recent design graduates countrywide. Taylor says this has provided an excellent launch pad with many past winners now established names in the industry. Taylor was also keen to promote the scope of his department’s technical events, technical journals and manufacturing DVDs which demonstrate a range of key production processes. “They make great coffee table reading for jewellers and silversmiths,” he joked, while urging those who have not done so already to check them out. “Anyone can register online to receive them,” he commented. To find out more about the work of The Goldsmiths’ Company visit their website at: www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 23

| BJA News

The interior of James’ shop Inset: a bespoke ring design

BJA AGM – James Newman: doing it his way The Birmingham retailer and designer-maker, James Newman presented a case study about the growth of his business over the past 12 years at the AGM. So what has been the secret of his success? “

here are many designer makers here today and everyone of them will have their own story about how they built their business – so my way may not necessarily be the right way but it seems to have worked for me,” Newman told his audience. Having graduated from Birmingham School of Jewellery in 1997 with an honours degree in jewellery and silversmithing, Newman says he didn’t know which way to go. Luckily for him help was at hand in the form of ‘The Fellowship Scheme’ being run in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter, at that time, by fellow AGM speaker Peter Taylor. This scheme provided participants with an incubation space, a roof over their heads and a phone. “It made a massive difference. Through it I took part in two or three trade events as part of ‘Debut Design’ supported by the BJA and that started everything for me,” said Newman. Like so many successful designer makers, Newman’s first designs were in silver. “Cost dictated it, but I soon had a handful of customers, mostly on a sale or return basis and I simply continued to reinvest what I sold and to move forward. It seemed logical to join the BJA for the support and guidance

24 The Jeweller July 2011

it could provide and that support continues today,” he added. The ‘baby steps’ forward continued and soon, to keep costs tight, Newman was sharing his own studio with four other makers. “By 2000 I had my own workshop and was actually employing someone which was a completely different ball game. I wanted to establish a brand not just a product and so I spent a lot of time building up point-of-sale and looking at ways to present myself at exhibitions,” he explained. The period from 2000-2005 was one of consolidation; designing, reinvesting and getting bigger. Then in 2005 Newman was ready to take his first steps into retail which he believes has been the key to growing his business. “I had the chance to do Goldsmiths’ Fair and to actually meet the end customer James Newman’s new website

and get their feedback. This was invaluable for me as was the chance to network with other designers,” he said. CAD has been another important element in growing Newman’s business. “It opened up a whole different way of manufacturing,” he said. The chance to work as a consultant to the Neil Barrett fashion house producing a range of jewellery to their specification was another leg up for Newman. “It was really nice to have the challenge of working in a completely different area of design, in their ethos. It was interesting and enjoyable and the resulting range is sold throughout the world.” 2008 saw Newman relocate his business to a new retail environment in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter where he has both a shop and a workshop/office – the latter partly obscured behind a glass and mirrored wall. Everything was meticulously planned to get just the right look. He now employs four staff and says the space ‘works very well’. The days of purely silver are now long gone. Much of Newman’s stock is in gold and platinum and he has recently been picked to work with the Platinum Guild International which has, he says, provided excellent publicity. His most recent investment has been in his website which he sees as being an integral part of the business. “It has taken us two years to develop the back-end management system but we can now simply feed in the daily price fix and it will create a price list so we can quote quickly and be more reactive,” he said. Having the larger retail space has also brought further changes to Newman’s business and commission work now accounts for around 50 per cent of his business. A recent piece was for a an unusual ring in the shape of a gecko. A fact with which he gently teased fellow national committee member Barry Bennett of Gecko – quipping that “try as he might, his customer had been unable to find a piece of gecko jewellery”! “We seem to be gaining more and more respect in this area and recently created a piece in rose gold, platinum and diamonds with a price tag of £20k which is a long way from the silver pieces we used to make when we started. I believe that it is our passion and enthusiasm that has allowed us to move forward and to feel confident and excited about the future,” he concluded.

Merii Silver Jewellery Collection Pranda UK Ltd | 0208 979 3896 | prandabrands@pranda.co.uk

the

Jeweller picks... With children’s jewellery continuing to grow in popularity as well as choice and diversity, we select a few pieces that have summer written all over them… and then something for the grown-ups.

LITTLE ANGELS

The Little Angels line by Mancini is a designer range of jewellery for children. Each piece is created using 925 sterling silver and all stones are sourced for their outstanding colour clarity. Included in the range are pendants, rings, bangles, earrings, bracelets and charms with various designs of Angels, Red Strawberry, Pink Strawberry, Butterflies, Hearts and much more. All Little Angels products are luxuriously gift wrapped in brand packaging. Tel: 0191 214 7074

BELLA AT DONALD CLARKE

A selection of bright new colours and symbols from Just J

The Bella childrens collection offers an innovative range of plain, enamelled and stone set sterling silver cute jewellery. The colourful collection is made in silver, as well as, more unusually, resin and organza ribbon for necklets – in pastel tones they are ideal for bridesmaids, Expansion and traditional charm bracelets feature motifs such as ponies, butterflies, lady birds, hearts and ducks. Point of sale display and co-ordinated packaging is all available, while the website and a catalogue shows all the new designs. www.silverjewellerybella.com

JO FOR GIRLS

KIT HEATH KIDS

Spring Fair this year saw the launch of the Forever Friends Collection from specialist children’s jewellery brand Jo for Girls, which was Shortlisted for Gift of the Year 2011. New to the range, for the summer, is a colourful Tantalising Strawberry set of pendant, earrings, and charms. So popular has the look been that it quickly sold out and the re-order level had to be increased significantly. Birthstone Angels is a modern take on a traditional jewellery theme, with each piece accompanied by an Angel card. Tel: 01887 820 760

This summer Kit Heath has launched the Beachcomber Kids collection. Each bracelet is unique, reflecting the personality of the wearer with the addition of ‘pebbles’ collected off the beach; gemstones and sterling silver; they can grow year by year, or month by month. Key new styles are the silver and diamond beads perfect for christening gifts; Candy Swirls, Stars and Hearts in pink and lilac; the Carousel and Windmill range are perfect for special occasion gifts; and the Animal range sees a few new additions including butterflies, ducks and ladybirds. All styles appear in earring studs, pendants, bangles, bracelets, necklaces and a huge new range of charms. www.kitheath.com

MOLLY BROWN

Secret Treasures is an intricately crafted, very feminine collection of pendants. Each enamel-coated sterling silver egg opens up to reveal a secret charm. There are colours for all tastes include turquoise, lapis, baby pink, purple, plain silver and charms include rabbits, butterflies, horses, ducklings and teddy bears. The Molly Brown line caters for girls of all ages, from toddlers to teens and new mothers. Also new for 2011 is Molly Pops – variously ‘flavoured’ lollipops on long or short silver chains, while Collection 12 offers a choice of 12 coloured gemstones on a sterling silver bracelet. Tel: 0844 335 3923

D FOR DIAMOND BY GECKO

Staying true to the brand’s reputation for sweet and fun design and affordable luxury, the D for Diamond watch features an eyecatching dial design that helps a child learn to tell the time; the brand’s signature diamond set in the watch face and a genuine leather strap. Also in the new line are pendants, bracelets and earrings including the ‘Daisy daisy’ locket which features delicate engraving and cheerful enamel detailing and there is a bracelet to match. Every piece of jewellery in the line incorporates a genuine diamond set in silver or 9ct gold. New lower wholesale prices start from £4.49. Tel: 01376 532 000 or email: sales@geckojewellery.com

NOMINATION

Nomination, the Italian composable jewellery brand, has collaborated with Eta-beta, the official licensee of Hello Kitty jewellery, to create link charms featuring the cult character. There are 20 silver 925 charms in the range, covering a variety of guises including angel, dancer and butterfly. An essentially fun brand, there are many elements of Nomination’s line that would appeal to children and tweens: dog and elephant charms on silver chains in Adorable; Fabtasia’s Peter Pan and Alice in Wonderland links; stainless steel fairy design earrings from Fantasy and Butterfly silver and CZ necklaces for instance. www.nomination.com

MEISSEN JOAILLERIE Combining the craftsmanship that Meissen is traditionally renowned for, with precious stones and materials, the 300 year-old luxury German brand has created a jewellery collection that is delicately feminine as well as unique. For this Montgolfier pendant, the porcelain is protected inside a gold and diamond ball. The hand-decorated porcelain rings in the Mystery range are also framed by gemstones. There are also pieces in the collection that incorporate purely stones, metals and pearls. www.meissen.com

EDEN

This young British jewellery designer creates arresting, unique pieces inspired by her extensive travels, the human body and nature (often in decay). Working in gold, silver, black rhodium and gemstones, she designs bold jewellery to be piled on and flaunted. Her launch collection includes several bracelets with chain to ring which are influenced by Balinese and India culture. Each piece is cast in silver before plating in 18 carat gold. This nugget coral piece features a tanzanite stone embedded in one of the craters. www.hannahwarner.com

At inhorgenta this year Belgian fine jewellery company Eden launched new pieces into its ‘Ikebana’ collection, which is inspired by the art of Japanese flower arranging. The line is one of many in Eden’s range of contemporary and classic diamond and gemstone jewellery. All the rings, earrings and pendants in white gold are made from a nickel-free alloy of gold and palladium, while the diamonds are brilliant cut ‘hearts and arrows’. www.eden.be

LEBLAS

BELLECHIQUE

HANNAH WARNER

To mark the launch of Fairtrade gold, which it has long supported, ethical jewellery designer Leblas has presented its latest collection of wedding bands for 2011, each one made using Fairtrade white or yellow gold and with conflict-free Canadian-sourced diamonds. Leblas offers 9ct bands starting from £220 through to 18ct wedding bands. To sit alongside this range Leblas has designed a collection of engagement rings, again made using ethical and ethically sourced Canadian diamonds to ensure traceability for every part of the ring. www.leblas.com

Antwerp-based diamond-jewellery house BelleChique offers a contemporary collection of pieces in 18 carat white, yellow and rose gold, set with natural coloured and white diamonds. Thin line bangles, stacking rings and rondelles and stick pendants can be worn alone or thrown together in myriad combinations for a modern and dramatic look. The line also includes solitaire diamond rings in white or two coloured coloured gold, that are highlighted by smaller diamonds on the shanks, as well as pavé set pieces. www.dmj.info

JIANHUI LONDON

With just a nod to vintage jewellery and with a touch of Carmen Miranda about it, is Jianhui’s summer collection of fruit and vegetable inspired jewellery – such as this glass Red Chilli necklace. Featuring also bananas, watermelons and sweetcorn crafted into necklaces, bracelets and earrings, the Picnic Collection is bang-on trend (note that labels like Prada and Stella McCartney were awash with tropical fruits) and makes a typically bold follow-up to Jianhui’s innovative ‘pashmina’ necklaces. www.jianhui.co.uk

Marking the ‘one year to go’ milestone is Links of London’s Entwine, a collection of jewellery inspired by the ribbons attached to the medals given to the winning Olympic athletes, as well as by the scrolls of ribbon shown on heraldic shields in the first ever Olympic Games in Athens. Twists of gold and silver form sculptural cuffs and rings, while citrine stones are encased in spirals to form drop earrings and necklaces. www.linksoflondon.com

ANUNZIATA

LINKS OF LONDON

Created by sisters Antoinette and Patricia Pasubio, Anunziata jewellery is inspired by European, Russian and Middle Eastern royalty and the hand-crafted, one of a kind statement pieces are re-workings of vintage items. High end vintage costume jewellery pieces that they have collected from all over the world are restyled with modern elements and jewels including south sea and freshwater pearls, sapphires, diamond beads and Swarovski crystals. www.anunziata.com

SARAH HERRIOT

Herriot had been making her ‘egg’ series of rings for a few years, and then had the idea to make two rings from one egg. The undulating sheet used to split the egg gives an interesting flowing surface to the ring. The two slightly different sizes allows the wearer to have matching rings, one on each hand, or give the other half of the egg to a friend. The idea for the actual slicing came from a floor grille at the British Museum. The pendants, necklace and earrings have taken the top section from the ring, giving them the same wave effect. www.sarahherriot.com

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19 - 23 September 2011 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong Diamonds, Pearls, Gemstones, Equipment and Packaging

21 - 25 September 2011 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Fine Finished Jewellery

www.JewelleryNetAsia.com

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| Security

Not just statistics Michael Hoare defines the terms used to describe crimes against jewellers and offers an update of SaferGems activity. ll incidents reported to SaferGems are split into the three basic categories of ‘Thefts’, Robberies, and Aggravated Burglaries. But what do those terms mean? Surely theft is a concept we all think we understand. The illegal taking of another person’s property without that person’s freely-given consent constitutes a theft. But the word is also used as informal shorthand for crimes like burglary, embezzlement, larceny, looting, robbery, shoplifting, fraud and sometimes criminal conversion. What then is robbery, and how does it differ from burglary? In technical terms robbery is taking or attempting to take something of value by force or threat of force or by putting the victim in fear. In common law, robbery is defined as taking the property of another, with the intent to permanently deprive the person of that property, by means of force or fear. Although precise definitions of the offence may vary between jurisdictions, robbery therefore differs from simple theft because some level of violence and intimidation is used. Again, there are many different types of robbery, including piracy, armed robbery and highway robbery or ‘mugging’. These all come under the general heading of aggravated robbery and involve the use of a deadly weapon – or something that appears to be one. Burglary, on the

when I tell you that between January and May 2011 twenty six robberies were reported to SaferGems, but that only six of them involved firearms, it is clear that the other twenty were not trivial incidents because they still involved an unacceptable level of violence. In these cases, six were robberies against travelling salespeople, and in total they resulted in the loss of nearly one million pounds worth of goods. Twenty-five burglaries during the same period resulted in £110,000 of losses, while aggravated burglaries and ‘smash and grab’ type offences accounted for thirty-five incidents and the loss of £375,000 worth of stock. Last, but not least, one hundred and twenty eights thefts (forty involving distraction or sleight of hand), were reported. In the final analysis, however, definitions and statistics cannot tell the story of the distress and humiliation felt by victims of crime, whether violent or not. And no figure can accurately express the loss jewellers suffer from staff turnover caused by fear.

Eagle-eyed reaction to SaferGems alert On Saturday 5th February 2011, a robbery took place in the area of Giffnock, Glasgow, involving the robbery of diamonds with a retail value of £1 million from a victim making his way to his vehicle. The stolen property

So, for instance, when I tell you that between January and May 2011 twenty six robberies were reported to SaferGems, but that only six of them involved firearms, it is clear that the other twenty were not trivial incidents because they still involved an unacceptable level of violence. other hand, is where a person enters any building or part of a building as a trespasser with intent to steal, inflict grievous bodily harm, or do unlawful damage to the building or anything in it. It is worth getting the definitions fixed in our minds because it helps understand the true nature of the offence. So, for instance,

32 The Jeweller July 2011

consisted of individual diamond rings and pendants inscribed with the diamond merchant’s identifying mark. Details and images of the stolen goods were circulated on Friday 1st April 2011 and as a result a jeweller in Liverpool contacted SaferGems to report that a man with diamond rings matching those stolen in the robbery had visited his store.

As a result Merseyside Police were able to recover the suspect items and open up new lines of enquiry.

‘Supergran’ Gang Jailed for 26 years A bungling gang of armed raiders, whose attempted heist of a jewellery store in Northampton was foiled by a handbagwielding ‘Supergran’, have received jail sentences of more than 26 years. Retired market trader Ann Timson, 71, was hailed as a ‘handbag-wielding heroine’ after tackling the gang who were armed with sledgehammers as they tried to smash the windows of NAG Member Michael Jones Jewellers in Northampton town centre in February. Northampton Crown Court heard how the raiders, who used two scooters and a motorbike, fled the scene in panic after the pensioner lashed out with her large black handbag, earning her worldwide fame. Edward Smith, 28, and Michael Sharpe, 40, who were thought to be the ring leaders, were each jailed for six years and eight months, while Patrick Spencer-O’Brien, 18, was sentenced to five years’ detention. Jason Hartles, 25, and Terry Ingles, 22, were jailed for four years each. One masked raider is still being hunted, as is £111,000 haul of stolen Rolex and Cartier watches.

w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k

Theft is the problem. We have a solution! he nation’s foremost crime fighting charity has launched its first commercial product. The Crimestoppers Property Protector™ is a solution that can be dabbed in tiny amounts onto jewellery or other valuables. Every bottle contains its own unique microparticle code that the purchaser registers on the IMMOBILISE property registration website. The solution is almost invisible to the naked eye and virtually impossible to remove. If the item is stolen a UV light will reveal the tag’s presence and readers held by the police can identify the owner.

Unlike other products available, the tagged item does not need to be sent to a laboratory for forensic analysis. Nor is there an annual subscription. For a purchase price of £27.99 including VAT a bottle of the Crimestoppers Property Protector™ will tag up to 200 items which, if stolen and recovered, will give the police the best possible chance of returning them to you. You can be amongst the first to sell this innovative product to your customers. Primassure are proud to have been appointed as official agents for the marketing of the Property Protector and can provide you with a discount code to buy it in packs of 10 direct from Crimestoppers creating you a typical profit margin of up to 35% on the Recommended Retail Price.

Please contact us to learn more

0845 680 1860 www.primassure.com

The Voice of the Industry 33

| Feature

the

Jeweller Brand Profile

Fope Gioielli

that there was a global desire for large, chunky and ornate ‘bohemian’ pieces – pieces that only would have economic viability if made in silver. But by taking out of retirement archive designs from Fope’s gold collection, the wished-for effect was created with spirit intact. Besides the obvious fact that the loyal Fope customer now has jewellery that is more ‘everyday’ – costing hundreds rather than thousands – the new line opens up the market for the brand. “Fope has a strategic objective to grow its awareness with younger consumers,” says Dixon, “and it’s achieved not just through the look, but also through the price points being lower than gold,”

Employing innovation to create new markets

hen Fope Gioielli, as it is recognised today, first emerged in the 1970s, the luxury Italian brand was focussed resolutely on gold. As recently as 2008, a marketing document for the company states fairly unequivocally that ‘the charm of gold is the hinge on which Fope is building its future strategies’. Well, three years is a long time in the jewellery world; a lot can happen. Over that period of time the soaring price of gold has had inevitable implications for all who work with and sell the metal and under such circumstances, a degree of flexibility is clearly a good thing. Particularly so, as in the case of Fope, creative thinking is married with technical wizardry and innovation. It was this combi-

34 The Jeweller July 2011

nation that led to the unveiling at Basel this year of the Twin collection. On one hand so completely familiar to afficianados – the signature tubular mesh still there – yet totally different. This new line of torque bangles is in silver. Or, to be more precise, they’re made of ‘Silverfope’, a precious alloy of Fope’s own creation; a blend of silver and palladium. Its existence is fundamental to the brand’s bold move into the non-gold market. “The decision to launch a silver collection probably would not have happened if Fope had not been able to find a USP – that was achieved with this non-tarnishing precious alloy,” says Keith Dixon, consultant to Fope’s UK agents Saunders Shepherd. While there is certainly an argument for a brand staying true to its heritage and maintaining purity of purpose and ethos, a willingness to adapt must surely be a prerequisite for success these days. Fope’s core (well-heeled) customer base hasn’t fallen out of love with white, yellow and rose gold, but the introduction of silver brings with it new opportunities, without diluting the message. In my view, if the gold price was not an issue, the birth of Twin would still have been necessary. The company recognised

As would be expected, a lower price is no indication of dropping standards. The manufacture of the three Twin ranges – Star, Naos and Fizzy – is classic Fope and the element of luxury remains, not just in the glamorous shine, but also thanks to the highlights of rose gold vermeil, diamond and the gemstone touches on some of the pieces. In the Fizzy range pearls, sapphire, onyx, rubies and lapis lazuli provide subtle punctuation marks to the bangles. The collection actually trialled in the UK at the tail end of last year as the company was very keen to receive customer feedback. The ‘universally popular’ response encouraged Fope to launch Twin at Basel. Presumably the views of retailers elsewhere in the world were considered, but the UK trial points to a new direction for the brand in this market. “Fope has recognised that it is prepared to invest on behalf of its retailers,” explains Dixon. “In the early days jewellers were

Feature | appointed to the network based on their location, reputation and potential business. It was very much a case of Fope will put the stock in and leave it to the jeweller to sell it out.” After five years of this passive approach the company decided to invest in the UK market, first with in-store type marketing activities and, more recently, an objective to create consumer awareness and drive that consumer to the retailer’s store. At this moment, the UK and Ireland export territory is the only one granted to have its own website.

In the beginning It’s all rather a long way from the company’s more prosaic beginnings when one Umberto Cazzola founded the dynasty with a small jewellery craft factory in Vicenza. An engineer first and foremost, he was one of the first in Italy to develop the necessary technology to produce extendible steel watch-bracelets and he became the leader in the field. It was Cazzola’s grandson – another Umberto – who became president of the company in 1970 and remains in that role today, who harnessed the innovation to create Fope jewellery. (The name is actually an acronym for Fabbrica Oreficeria Preziosi Esportazioni – Factory of Jewellery Precious Exports.) Ten years later, the basis of everything that Fope produces today, made its debut – Novecento Mesh. Protected by a patent, the tubular form with no solder in the links, has since become the distinguishing design by which the brand is recognised all over the world, including China, Russia, Japan, the Americas and South Africa. In 2000 Birmingham-based Saunders Shepherd

Above: a selection of gold Flex-It bracelets. Below: Silverfope and lapis lazuli torque bangle from the Fizzy range Left: Silverfope and rose gold vermeil torque bangle from the Naos range Far left: Silverfope and rose gold vermeil torque bangle from the Star range

was appointed UK agency and all jewellery is hallmarked as such, together with Fope’s maker’s mark. Before Twin was launched, the brand’s most recent and very contemporary design innovation was Flex’It. As the name suggests, the line – initially bracelets – is all about flexibility; the clasps have been replaced by 18ct white gold springs in each link. The translation of the Italian press release on the subject expresses things in typically continental esoteric fashion: “Women’s dimension is the fleeting moment: intense and precious. Women’s dimension is emotion: free and seductive. Just like Fope jewels: an instant to love them, and instant to wear them’. Huh?! Put another way – this is a really appealing piece of precious jewellery for the woman who doesn’t have the time (or maybe the ability) to faff about with clasps.

Just roll it on. Inspect the pieces – there are now necklaces, earrings and rings to complement the bracelet – and you can’t help but marvel at the clever technology employed. To try one is to want to buy one. While Twin is causing something of a stir at the moment, it by no means is a sign that Fope’s gold ranges are being left in the shade. “Currently in the UK only 15 per cent of gold sales are for branded products, therefore the potential is enormous,” says Dixon. “Fope will increase this market by advertising directly to the consumer on behalf of its retailers. In 2011 over £100,000 has been dedicated to press activity, either generically on a national basis or alongside our retailers through the regional press. Fope realise that they need to perform slightly differently to meet the needs of the UK market while maintaining global brand values. There’s no limit to what it can achieve in the next few years.” UK contact: call Saunders Shepherd on tel: 0121 236 1729 or email the company at: www.fopeuk.com

The Voice of the Industry 35

Jenny Deans

prices of late – offers very many positives, for a number of reasons. According to Charles Vickers, UK sales agent for Finnish designer brand Lapponia, there is no longer the snobbery about silver within the fine jewellery trade. “The price of silver today is now something similar to 9ct gold jewellery of just a few years ago,” he says. “This means that quality silver jewellery cannot now be overlooked when selecting design and brands to offer customers. Silver jewellery sales are just as important as gold sales were four or five years ago. The all-important profit margin on most silver jewellery brands is considerably higher than conventional gold jewellery margins – which usually removes most traces of snobbery,” he adds. Certainly most suppliers of silver jewellery have witnessed a shift in attitude among retailers over the last few years. “In the past there were shops that would not stock silver, but that has all changed now and almost all jewellers stock it in some

As the price of gold continues to soar, creators of the right silver product should be reaping the benefits, suggests Belinda Morris

Gecko

t isn’t all about price – but silver is certainly enjoying something of a moment right now. A combination of factors have come together to create a buzz about this precious metal, that once, in the view of many, was certainly something to be sniffed at. Naturally enough, the issue of snobbery at the upper levels of the market will continue to exist. There is no escaping the logic here. The irrefutable difference in monetary value puts gold and platinum in a different league to silver. There are consumers for whom only the most precious of metals will do and an extra nought on a price ticket is neither here nor there (or at least, will be taken on the chin). Jewellers occupying that elite sector feel no need to muddy their

36 The Jeweller July 2011

waters with anything other than the 18 and 24 carat stuff. Fair enough. But that, as I say, is a top-end opinion. For the rest of the market silver – which itself has not been immune to escalating

Catherine Marché

shape or form,” says Claire Maddocks of AG Silver. “It is usually a jewellery shop’s bread and butter.” In the view of Yasmin Moss, designer for new ethical silver jewellery brand Chaos, the economics have demanded that retailers think differently. “They are now clearly looking for products that fill the £200 to £500 price point where previously consumers could find something in gold – this is no longer possible,” she says. It might also be the case that retail perception and consumer perception of silver are two different things. “Retailers are beginning to realise that customers are now seeing sterling silver as a precious metal with a high perceived value,” she points out.

Feature |

Merii

Which leads to one simple factor – other than price – that is driving silver’s renaissance at the moment. People want to wear it. “Suddenly, at some point in the last decade, silver stopped being an inferior substitute for gold and became a desirable article in its own right,” says Marion Wilson, marketing director of The Assay Office. She points to the “Tiffany heart” trend of 2003/4 which saw the volume of silver articles submitted for UK hallmarking, peaking at 10.8 million and holding pretty steadily ever since. “The prevalence of branded silver at all levels of the market and particularly within the massive bead and charm pandemic, has undoubtedly increased its popularity too,” she adds.

Shepherd, UK agents for Fope, which has recently launched its first silver collection. “Perhaps the snobbery is mitigated by the fact that silver is bringing new and younger customers into their stores,” he adds. Quite. “Because of the success of certain brands, jewellery retailers cannot afford to disregard silver. Some, like Links of London and Georg Jensen add such value to an item through their marketing and packaging, that their silver jewellery can be as expensive as nine carat jewellery,” says Barry Bennett, managing director of Gecko. “So, there is an increase in the number of jewellers looking for silver collections to meet a price point that consumers are currently willing to spend. And they’re looking for certain brands – like Fiorelli and Pandora – Bastian Inverun

Brand awareness “There may well be some snobbery among top end retailers but they must react to consumer demand – as they have done with Pandora and the beads market,” agrees Keith Dixon, consultant to Saunders

says Emma Finney, coowner and joint managing director of silveroriented So Jewellery with her sister Charlie. Thomas Sabo is another of those brands that have undoubtedly been instrumental in rejuvenating silver’s popularity. “Branded silver products are contributing a lot to Thomas Sabo the income of fine jewellers and if you listen to the market, all our retailers will confirm how important we are to their business,” says Harald Winzer, the UK managing director of the German label. “Even high end Rolex dealers are looking for high quality silver collections to add to their portfolio,” points out Eric Gaertner of bastian inverun, another German silver brand. One such top end jeweller which has recognised a change in the air, is London-based Charles Fish. “We have definitely seen an increase in silver sales – particularly in fashion branded products – over the past five years” says director Samantha Hansard. “In part it’s due to rising gold prices, but it is also to do with consumer tastes and jewellery being viewed more and more as a fashion accessory. Customers are buying jewellery regularly, rather than just for special occasions, and silver is a more affordable way of building a collection.”

Silver jewellery sales are just as important as gold sales were four or five years ago. The all-important profit margin on most silver jewellery brands is considerably higher that conventional gold jewellery margins.

Fope

which have raised the profile of silver. Retailers are dedicating more of their budget and window space to silver,” he adds. “The advent of brands some five years ago and their growing popularity, has meant that jewellers have been challenged to rethink their product mix in a way that many traditional, often family-based businesses, have not needed to do for generations,”

Sarah Morfoot, managing director of Fable Trading, the sole distributor of Trollbeads in the UK and Ireland, also feels that silver – being more affordable than gold – is versatile as well as attractive and “it can be worn everyday. It is no longer seen as second rate to gold. It has definitely become more widely accepted and jewellers appreciate that many people actually prefer the look of silver,”

The Voice of the Industry 37

| Feature she says. “The very first Danish Trollbead, created in 1976, was a silver bead, which is still in the collection today.” Jewellery designer maker Jenny Deans, who recently showed her collection at Treasure during London Jewellery Week, is also finding that it isn’t just the more accessible price point of silver that is attracting her clients. “I think silver is coming into its own at the moment,” she says.

can become a positive. “It has caused us to innovate and look ahead to how we can come up with new designs that are less reliant on silver and have more stones and pearls,” says Maddocks. “Our new collections feature volume forms created by the imaginative use of open space in the designs,” explains Moss at Chaos. Lapponia

Goldmajor

material. Added to this, designers such as Stephen Webster, Shaun Leane, Roberto Coin and Theo Fennell who have created silver diffusion lines, have added greatly to silver’s credibility stakes among young consumers and top end and design-led jewellery retailers.

Designing for the right price

Trollbeads

“Younger clients particularly are interested in silver pieces as they find the colour more appealing than gold. Gold can be seen to be a more old-fashioned metal than silver.” Emma Finney agrees. “There’s an increased consumer demand for silver – it’s now considered a more contemporary material and is available in a greater variety of design choices than more traditional white or gold jewellery,” she says. By deciding to launch a silver line, Italian brand Fope, has deliberately targeted a younger audience with bold and chunky pieces that would be prohibitively expensive in gold – its usual

Inevitably, the rising price of silver is having an effect on the jewellery designs themselves. Keeping costs at a manageable level, to avoid passing them on to retailers and consumers, has meant some further creative thinking by designers. A negative

Ti Sento

Silver – need to know:

CW Sellors

38 The Jeweller July 2011

Rachel Parkin at Balagan imagines that we are likely to be seeing a change in silver designs in the next few months. “The rising cost of silver has impacted on designs – they will need to be lighter to keep the costs more reasonable,” she says. “It’s helped in part by the trend for vintage jewellery which

Sterling silver (in the UK) is an alloy with a fineness of 0.925 parts silver with 0.075 parts copper. A very malleable metal, pure silver is too soft to be practical for jewellery – copper makes it harder Silver has a melting point of 961ºC Silver tarnishes by contact with sulphurous fumes in the air Silver was less used than gold for jewellery in ancient times, being mainly used for tableware and Church plate Silver jewellery became popular in the mid 19th Century but was superseded by platinum Art Nouveau jewellery saw the return of silver’s popularity Rhodium – which is a metal from the platinum family – is often used to plate silver, as it gives it a bright finish and helps to prevent tarnishing and scratching Vermeil is gilded silver – sterling silver covered with a layer of gold by plating or some other process The hallmarking exemption weight for silver articles is 7.78 grams A 25th wedding anniversary is commemorated with silver Silver has long been a symbol of strength and purity and, in relation to the moon, feminine strength in particular

PH. FRANCO PAGETTI WWW.FOPE.COM

For your nearest retailer call 0800 206 1909 or visit www.fopeuk.com/flexit

Feature | have been very well accepted by our customers,” says Goldmajor’s Sarah Price. Relative newcomer, designer Daisy Knights is also finding that her style is being dictated to some extent by circumstances. “It is hard as a new brand when you are trying to keep your costs down, but the rising cost of silver is constantly making our prices go up,” explains sales director

Daisy Knights

is a delicate and pretty look. There will be certain trends that we won’t be able to capitalise on (chunky chains for example) as the cost would be prohibitive.” “The rising cost of metal has put even more emphasis on the design of the pieces, so that we are not using more than is needed,” explains Paul Barker, assistant workshop manager at CW Sellors, a company renowned for its imaginative use of gemstones. “We invested in CAD/CAM and this technology goes hand-in-hand with our many years of manufacturing experience to keep the weight of our designs appropriate for the piece without using either excess materials or going too lightweight. In some areas we have been able to put the emphasis onto the gemstone allowing a more diligent use of the metal.” At Goldmajor too, lighter design pieces where silver has been used together with stones such as agates has the combined

Kit Heath

effect of minimising costs while tapping into the current fashion trend for bold and colourful jewellery. This also includes the men’s JWdesign with gemstones such as blue topaz, amethyst and garnet frequently used to enhance the silver rings, pendants and bracelets. “The emphasis on variations of finishes of the silver – including highly polished, oxidised, scratched and matt –

There’s a noticeable trend towards mixing silver with what has been traditionally seen as ‘fine jewellery’ product like diamonds and gemstones…

Shaun Leane

Michelle Higgs. “All our prices are based on weight so Daisy is definitely trying to design lighter pieces. Luckily all other designers are facing the same problems, so we are all in it together!” Designer Alexis Dove is known for creating collections that can include quite heavy pieces, but has been cutting her cloth to suit the changes. “I am now finding that I am designing jewellery with an emphasis on more delicate pieces and the heavier one becoming ‘hero pieces’ rather than bestselling lines. I also create many pieces in gold vermeil – both rose and yellow gold – which Roberto Coin

AG Silver

allows customers to have a gold finish without breaking the bank.” Martin Fleet at Orkney-based Sheila Fleet, reports too that escalating prices have had their effect. “Our prices rose in January along with VAT and this impacted sales in the first quarter of the year which were slower. Retailers were being cautious, not wanting to back stock,” he explains. “Chains and findings went up two or three times within a six month period which is unheard of in silver. We purchased a good stock of silver in November/December in order to set our prices in advance – which worked out to be a good move. But the price rise has also made us design differently, with more fine but clever ideas – without compromising quality.”

Nicole Barr

Style plus content Quality is the operative word when it comes to selling silver to those more accustomed to dealing in gold and platinum. “I think jewellers are very brave,’ says Judith Wade of Amsterdam-based silver fashion jewellery brand Ti Sento.

The Voice of the Industry 41

| Feature our jewellery – our manufacturing methods are so similar to that of gold.” On the subject of which, adding touches of gold to silver pieces creates further interest through highlight features, as well as an extra element of luxury – should some

Cymru y Metel

“We have some customers who are very new to the trade and have no preconceived views or snobbery when it comes to silver, but well over two-thirds of our retailers are traditional jewellers who sell brands like Rolex and Patek. I feel very honoured that they give us great spaces and positions in their windows, but I feel that is because of the quality of

Cai Jewels

Hot Diamonds Alexis Dove

Silver & gold facts and figures – from The Assay Office I

The volume of gold articles hallmarked dropped from 27m in 2001 to 5.8m pieces in 2010 However, due to massive gold prices increases, the value of that market can be seen to have held steady and actually peaked in 2010 Silver articles submitted for hallmarking in the UK peaked at 10.8m in 2003 and 2004 and have remained above 8m ever since In 2010 silver prices averaged at £13.02 per ounce In April 2011 they hit a high of £29.26 per ounce The volume of silver items submitted for hallmarking to the end of may 2010 totalled 3.1m, but only 2.4m in 2011 If the trend continues (i.e. 30% down as in April/May) the total volume for 2011 could be less than 6m

42 The Jeweller July 2011

consumers miss it. CW Sellors, Sophie Harley and Jenny Deans are among the many who are running with this idea, while Cymru Gold has reversed the trend with accents of silver to add a contemporary twist to its traditional Welsh themes. While the impetus might have been provided by price – both from a supplier and retailer perspective – it’s also the case that there’s simply a wealth of silver jewellery to be had out there and in particular from high-profile names. “There’s lots more designer collections in silver than there were,” confirms Samantha Hansard, “and there’s a noticeable trend towards mixing silver with Kleshna

what has been traditionally seen as ‘fine jewellery’ product like diamonds and gemstones. Many new and established brands are working with silver now as this is where the volume sales are. Quite often the designers’ silver collections cash flow the development of their fine lines,” she adds. Shaun Leane’s ‘Bound’ collection – inspired by African body adornment – takes signature shapes bound with silver wire and incorporates stones like green onyx,

Customers are buying jewellery regularly, rather than just for special occasions, and silver is a more affordable way of building a collection… cornelian and smoky quartz as well as leather. Kleshna – renowned for her almost edible colour – mixes silver with rainbow shades of Swarovski crystal and this season she has added ‘origami’ birds of hand-folded silver to her line. With a number of different brands under its umbrella, Balagan is creating a delicately interesting point of difference by incor-

Lily & Lotty

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The Voice of the Industry 43

| Feature porating real leaves into pieces. As Hansard points out, adding gemstones to silver can help to up the desirability factor – as brands like (the recently launched) Lily & Lotty, AG Silver, So Jewellery and Hot Diamonds (with its new Gemstone Orbs range) are discovering. As well as creating interest among retail customers and consumers, the addition of new materials – and with it new strategic designing – can work towards offsetting the silver price hikes. Ortak Above: Martick Below: Sophie Harley

There’s still a demand for good-quality, design-led silver. Retailers are adjusting to the price changes and the end consumer will eventually follow… Every cloud… “The rise in the cost of silver has certainly affected the way in which we produce jewellery, mostly when designing new concepts,” explains Adryan Cresswell, head of commerce at Hot Diamonds. “Concepts that would have hit ideal price points last year are often not hitting them today, so cannot be progressed. Ironically, this has encouraged us to explore new ideas, which we feel has injected a new level of vibrancy to our autumn/winter collection.” Of course, at the global brand or high-end designer level of the market, price is not so much of an issue. The rising cost of silver has had little effect on Lapponia’s business for instance, where it’s not uncommon for pieces to sell at £600 to £1,200. “It’s a fast-growing sector of our overall sales,” says Vickers.

44 The Jeweller July 2011

“There’s still a demand for good-quality, design-led silver. Retailers are adjusting to the price changes and the end consumer will eventually follow,” says Claire Maddocks. “Inevitably silver will be perceived as a precious metal once more and therefore become more special and desirable, rather than a throw away fashion item. In the long run, the rising price of it could be a good I thing for our industry.”

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| Ethical Jeweller

Ethical silver – doing the right thing Following the excitement of the launch of Fairtrade Fairmind Gold, Greg Valerio turns his, and our, attention to ethical silver. ilver jewellery was the product I fell in love with when I first got into the jewellery trade. Practically it was cheaper than gold, but I found that it was also a lot more versatile. I could afford to be more creative and diverse in my product approach. From the fashion perspective it made total sense and its affordable diversity allowed me to give my customers a continually changing selection of new ranges that didn’t break their bank accounts… or mine. It was the search for a fair trade silver source that got me into the ethical issues in the jewellery trade. I wanted to be a fair trade jeweller but I was equally clear that I did not want to go down the ‘hippy chic, hemp underwear’ design cliche that was rightfully associated with the idea of fair trade jewellery at the time.

dual stamp and over 100 companies and jewellers on the waiting list. Wow! All of these jewellers use silver in primary collections or would like to use fair trade silver when alloying their gold. However, while that search continues, the jewellery trade is finding a more sustainable way of using silver that in some ways improves the ethical provenance of jewellery. This is where 100 per cent recycled silver comes into the story. It is a development that is both welcome and not that difficult to embrace for the silversmith or silver jewellery brand wanting to take some simple steps in the right direction. Kevin Bloor at Capella for instance is now a dedicated supplier: kevin@capellaltd.co.uk There are now a number of excellent emerging brands and jewellers who are dedicated to using only recycled silver in their collections. Here are three of my favourite collections that any high street jeweller can stock. Ute Decker – Sculptural Jeweller (left) Ute Decker’s pieces are described as architectural and sculptural in design and essence. Her individually handcrafted pieces are made from 100 per cent recycled silver and/or Fairtrade Gold. She is one of our leading champions on green practices in the workshop and at the forefront of the new wave of jewellers who are shaping the future of the jewellery trade.

Yet to this day the search for a traceable supply of artisanally-mined fair trade silver remains as elusive as ever. There is no doubt that the demand is there. What we have witnessed in the last five months since the launch of Fairtrade Gold has been an unprecedented uptake of jewellers wanting to be associated with the best gold story in the world. As of last month there were 24 Fairtrade Fairmined license holders, 400 certified products registered for the FT-FM

46 The Jeweller July 2011

Saphara by Annabel Panes at Cred Jewellery (right) Each design in the Saphara collection is available in 100 per cent recycled silver and/ or plated in Oro Verde Fairtrade Fairmined ecological gold. They are handcrafted in Nepal by the Kathmandu Harigni Cooperative. Annabel took inspiration from Nepalese design and culture, creating pieces to highlight the skills and artistry of the workers.

Oria Jewellery (above) Oria is a socially and environmentally committed jewellery company dedicated to making fine jewellery using ethically sourced gold, silver and gems. They have been one of this country’s leading brand exponents of ethical jewellery and their recycled silver collections are beautiful and well priced. I am continually amazed at how far the ethical jewellery movement has come in the UK in such a short period of time. It is also extremely significant that in June the BJA and the NAG formed an ethics working committee headed up by another of the UK’s first wave ethical jewellers, Vivien Johnston. The aim of the group is to consult and explore how we as a nation of jewellers and jewellery lovers can deepen our understanding of the human rights and environmental issues in our business and continue to spread the good practice that is emerging from within our industry and from our international supply chain partners. In silver we still have a long way to go before we can claim the true benefits that a Fairtrade Process will bring to the miners and their environment, but I do believe 100 per cent recycled silver is a positive step, even if it is not the ultimate destination. Greg Valerio – winner of The Observer Global Campaigner of the Year award 2011 sponsored by Ecover. www.gregvalerio.com

The Voice of the Industry 47

| BJA Feature

Day by day with the BJA at LJW

Guests enjoy the launch of LJW at The Mayfair Hotel

As an ambassador for London Jewellery Week the BJA’s Lindsey Straughton was closely involved in promoting this year’s packed agenda. She looks back over the week and describes some of the key events in which members of the Association took part.

Monday

To the Crystal Ballroom at the fashionable Mayfair Hotel, which was the glittering setting for the opening cocktail party attended by sponsors, participants and their guests. There was champagne from Thienot, canapés from Benares and fabulous jewels on view. The hotel, which was the hub for the week, is a celebrity hotspot (I spoke to Hugh Grant!) and was crammed with stars on Tuesday night for the nearby Glamour awards sponsored by BJA member Pandora.

Tuesday

My first task was to visit the CASS Jewellery Department at London Metropolitan University to judge, with others from the trade and Goldsmiths’ Company, their annual student awards. This year we were joined for the first time by ex-CASS graduate, Mahtab Hanna, who was sponsoring a new award for the best use of technology.

Mahtab Hanna on the catwalk at the Royal Exchange

48 The Jeweller July 2011

Designer Jianhui at the launch of his shop in Gabriel’s Wharf

BJA Feature | Later in the day the sun shone at Gabriel’s Wharf where Jainhui opened his new retail outlet. Intriguingly this Chineseborn, but now London-based designer has grown a successful business making costume jewellery assembled entirely in the UK. Jainhui is a past recipient of a grant through the BJA’s London Jewellery Export project which he used to explore the Japanese market. His best selling trade line (and there were plenty on show both here and at Treasure) is his eco-friendly, wooden pashminas! A short walk along the shoreline took me to The OXO Tower where members Josef Koppmann, Alan Vallis/Daniel Gallie, Graeme McColm and Studio Fusion were all staging their own top-end exhibitions with plenty of out-of-the ordinary designs challenging mass production in jewellerymaking and making a bold stand against convention.

On the catwalk at the Royal Exchange

Wednesday

Josef Koppmann and guests at the Oxo Tower

My day was rounded off perfectly with a trip to Sketch – the über-trendy restaurant and club in Mayfair – where BJA designerjeweller Alexander Davies was hosting an evening launch of an Indian-inspired range for MyFlashTrash.com. The latter’s young and glamorous owner Amber, star of the reality TV show Made in Chelsea, had the smart set and the paparazzi out in hoards.

Set off bright and early to Swarovski’s sparkling head office in Regent Street for its trend presentation ‘Gemvisions for 2012’. This explored the shapes, colours and cuts of stones that will be hitting the streets next year. Key stories that jumped out at me included: ‘Luminescence’ – which as you might imagine included techno bright stones and clashing colours – and ‘Nouvelle Vague’, a retro 1950s black and white, Gucci-inspired chic mood. Other key themes were ‘Fantasy’, ‘Fiction’ and ‘Studio’. From high-end crystal to dynamic diamonds. My next stop was The Royal Exchange to an invitation-only fashion show and jewellery exhibition hosted by Barclays Wealth and Jaguar cars. Here city

bankers were treated to a stunning catwalk show with clothes by BodyAMR Studio and jewellery from among others BJA members David Marshall, Cindy Dennis Mangan, Alexander Davies, Pure Jewels and Swarovski’s spectacular ‘Runway Rocks’ collection.

Thursday

This was the BJA’s big day as our early evening AGM was staged to coincide with the first ever ‘Salon’ trade day, sponsored by The Jewellery Show at Treasure. My first job was to set up our own display of the winning pieces from The BJA’s annual award at The Jewellery Show with cuffs from Burkmar, Rachel Galley, Dark Horse, Abi-K and Atelier Gilmar.

The Voice of the Industry 49

| BJA Feature The entrance to Treasure in Holborn

Friday

During the day there were a number of interesting seminars to attend, not least a Trend Report from the forecasting agency WGSN. If you’re wondering what will be hot for 2012 the macro trends were ‘Primal Futurism’ (a mix of ancient and modern); ‘Cinematic’ (think stylised, moody and seductive) and ‘JPEG Gen’ (purposely eclectic and culturally mixed where more is more). Opportunely, Sit-Up TV asked for Lyndsey to comment on the latest trends. With over 100 designer makers exhibiting at Treasure it is impossible to give all the BJA members who took part a mention but hats off to Paul Spurgeon who was participating as part of the Goldsmith’s Pavilion and used the show to launch the first pieces from a workshop which he and others in the UK trade have sponsored in a South African township.

First stop of the day was the ‘14 Carat’ show at Craft Central in Clerkenwell where fourteen designers were successfully exhibiting. Today was the day Treasure opened its doors to the public. One of many highlights was The Fairtrade Association’s VIP Evening where attendees heard a Colombian miner talk about the Oro Verde progamme and had the opportunity to meet eleven jewellers who had created pieces in fairtrade gold. These included BJA members Weston Beamor, Ute Decker, Cred Jewellery, Jon Dibben, Linnie Mclarty, LeBlas and Anna Luca. In the evening it was off to the Hilton Hotel where BJA member PureJewels, one of the key sponsors of LJW the Green Street retailer, staged the launch of its Platinum Heritage 2011 Collection, designed for it by leading young designers. PureJewels also showed its diffusion ranges created from the 2010 Platinum Heritage designs which are now available in other metals for purchase by retailers countrywide.

A fair-trade gold miner speaking at the ‘Essence’ launch at Treasure

Doreth Jones, one of a team of Hatton Garden jewellers who made it into The Guinness Book of Records by making and hallmarking 30 silver rings in just one hour.

Saturday

This was definitely a day for the kids. The Hatton Garden Festival brought families out into the street with gemstone ‘sand pits’ to dig for hidden jewels, a Punch and Judy show and swing-boat rides. There was even a world record made as ex-students of Holt’s Jewellery Academy hammered, soldered and polished their way into the Guinness Book of Records by producing 30 completely finished and hallmarked silver rings in just one hour. The rings – one of which I am pleased to say I now own – were sold at £40 each with all proceeds going to the NSPCC. Just a 100 certificated rings were made. To buy one contact Platform Jewellery on 020 7831 2695.

Sunday

On the last day it was back to Treasure for a final chance to speak to exhibitors and view collections, followed by boat trip down the Thames courtesy of The Company of Master Jewellers prior to their conference the following day. Fittingly we disembarked at Westminster Pier with the iconic London Eye – like a huge ring – twinkling behind us to provide a fitting end to a successful I LJW week.

The Hatton Garden festival drew the crowds

50 The Jeweller July 2011

For more information visit LJW’s website at: www.londonjewelleryweek.co.uk and if you didn’t make it this year check out now how your business can get involved in 2012.

What do the best UK jewellers have in common? Gemvision.

n the tranquil area of Saltaire in West Yorkshire, award-winning designer John Bradley has created the studios of Dot Jewellers, a company far removed from the traditional high-street retail

chic interior of contemporary black and chrome, the framed rendered images of stunning realism and the video suite with huge plasma screen. This is where John’s clients participate in a unique design process.

“The jewellery we create and the way that we sell it would not be possible without Gemvision” John Bradley

been working with Gemvision’s Matrix software since 2006 and has won the Lonmin Design Innovation Award on three occasions – in 2007, 2008 and 2010. Here he describes how Gemvision has changed both his business and his life. “Dot the Jewellers are pure designers, at heart and in practice. We specialize in making precious jewellery with innovation and style, creating individually-tailored, bespoke pieces perfect for that special occasion. Matrix underpins all of our sales. In fact, both the jewellery we create and the way that we sell it would not be possible without this system. which time it had already paid for itself. It allows us to show a range of design ideas, of jewellery to perfection. The clarity and realism of the design reassures clients that every detail will be right for them. We gain approval before expending any time and money on making something that might need to change. “Working this way has pushed our design work further and I am constantly surprised and delighted by what we can create — a little imagination goes a long way and even complex designs that would be totally impractical to mass-manufacture are now easily achieved. It has also raised the bar in terms of quality, as the structure and “This process of creating a unique design eliminates the problem where, after lengthy discussions, the client goes off and sources a cheaper alternative on the web. Customers are involved with us from the outset and there is a direct correlation between what the client high — as one customer wrote, “looks even more stunning than the design!”, while another wrote, “off-the-peg is no longer an option!”. “So, while Gemvision Matrix has undoubtedly helped us to more importantly it has ensured that our jewellery is of the highest quality and different to anything else on the high street or the web.”

Gemvision products used by Dot the Jewellers

Matrix 3D Design Software lets you design virtual, 3D jewellery on-screen and in scale. Matrix is then able to output the ﬁle to a bureau service or to your own machine to realize the wax model ready for casting.

4 Springwell Court Holbeck, Leeds LS12 1AL, UK phone 0113 3899710 fax 0113 3899720 email gveurope@gemvision.com web www.gemvision.com For more success stories, go to www.gemvision.com/success

| Legal Jeweller

Are you an illegal employer? Laurie Anstis, an employment lawyer at Boyes Turner explains how to stay on the right side of the law, and what to do if you think you might be employing somebody who does not have the right to work in the UK. t is against the law to employ someone who does not have the right to work in the UK. Employers face penalties of up to £10,000 per employee for accidentally employing illegal workers. Deliberately employing illegal workers can lead to criminal prosecution and a prison sentence. The UK Border Agency has stepped up its raids on employers recently, with 11 different raids reported during May 2011; 42 illegal workers were discovered in those raids. The retail sector seems particularly vulnerable, with a number of those raids being on retail employers. These raids usually follow tip-offs, often coming from business rivals.

What checks do I have to make? The main thing is to get it right from the start. The law requires you to take copies of particular documents whenever an employee starts work for you. There is a list of those documents on the UK Border Agency’s website. Look for ‘preventing illegal working’ at ukba.homeoffice.gov.uk The commonest form of document is a European Union

passport, but other documents work for those who don’t have EU citizenship. It is not good enough just to check the document. You have to take a copy of it too. Some documents need to be checked every 12 months, but for most checking once before employment starts is enough. It is important to do these checks for all employees. Asking for documents only from people who aren’t British will be unlawful race discrimination. What if I haven’t made any checks? There are no problems for employees who started working for you before January 1997 – the rules on checks only came into force at that point. For anyone employed after that date, you could face prosecution if it transpires that they don’t have the right to work in the UK and you didn’t make the proper checks. From 1997 until the current rules came into force in February 2008 there were a number of different checking standards, which are set out on the UK Border Agency website.

What if I’m not sure if someone has the right to work in the UK? The main thing with new staff is to follow the document checking procedures to the letter. Completing the procedures and taking copies will be enough. For existing staff, see if you can get copies of the documents you would have needed to see, based on the date when they first started working for you. If they won’t or can’t supply these, you need to take legal advice about whether they actually do have the right to work in the UK. Immigration law is complicated, and there are many different schemes under which people can get the right to work in the UK. What if I know someone doesn’t have the right to work in the UK? If you know someone doesn’t have the right to work in the UK – for instance, because their permission to stay in the UK has run out – then even having copies of the right documents won’t help you. You might be able to allow the individual a few weeks or so to try to sort things out, but continuing to employ them will be a criminal offence. If they don’t have and can’t get the right to work in the UK you will have to dismiss them to avoid the risk of prosecution. For more information contact Laurie Anstis at Boyes Turner on 0118 952 7255 or email him at: lanstis@boyesturner.com Consistent with our policy when giving comment and advice on a non-specific basis, we cannot assume legal responsibility for the accuracy of any particular statement. In the case of specific problems we recommend that professional advice be sought.

52 The Jeweller July 2011

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| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

Antique JEWELLERY French Fancies Now that the pomp and ceremony of the Royal Wedding has well and truly died down, we can move from the British Royal family to the French one. Despite having dispatched its own monarchy some time ago, says Jo Young, our Gallic neighbours’ regal jewellery is no less interesting for its lack of wearers. o those of us whose grasp of French history is somewhat rudimentary, ‘France’ and ‘monarchy’ don’t actually go together. What little we know of French society tends to include the knowledge that, during the eighteenth century, it took against its monarchy in spectacular, gruesome and bloody fashion, killing off the aristocracy by way of the guillotine during the revolution. The events of 1788-1799 – despite the revolution being in response to centuries of aristocratic repression – tends to, in the modern memory at least, overshadow France’s historical relationship with its own monarchy. In fact, there were almost eleven centuries between the first royal coronation in France, that of Pepin le Bref at Soissons in 751, and the last, Charles X at Rheims in 1825. Under the terms of the French coronation, Kings were made ‘the annointed of the Lord’, as well as the representative of Christ in the realm. Like our own British monarchy (the last in Europe, in fact, to maintain the pomp and ceremony of the coronation ritual during the twentieth century), the chosen monarch was presented

54 The Jeweller July 2011

with a range of quite spectacular jewels and objects, including the traditional crown and sceptre. Kings of France were annointed, in the main, at the Abbey of Saint-Denis in Rheims.

Louis XVI

Couronne Louis XV

The objects of the coronation – known as the regalia – belonged to the Saint Denis treasure, and were originally kept in the Saint-Denis Basilica. The Regalia – which were largely restored or ‘recreated’ for Napoleon’s nineteenth century crowning – were traditionally taken to the Abbey in Rheims for the coronation ceremony; as were the monarchs, and in spectacular style. Louis XVI, for example, travelled to Rheims some twenty-six days ahead of his coronation, accompanied by an impressive cortege from his household, including princes, guests and a huge military escort. The soon-to-be-king made several stops on his travels, which were made all the more comfortable by the extraordinary coach he rode in: the finest coach of its kind in the eighteenth century, his was made from gilded bronze and mirrors, and decorated in carved garlands and painted panels. This was, if you will, the P Diddy mega-yacht of its age, designed to dazzle all whose eyes rested upon its splendour. (You can see why the starving peasants took against him, can’t you?). Sadly, this souped-up coronation coach no longer exists, but many coronation pieces from the Saint Denis treasure (like the coronation sword, for example) are still intact, secure in the Musee de Louvre. The sword, which is on display in the Louvre in a sheath made in the 13th Century, comprised (along with a set of spurs) the insignia of knighthood. The treasury at Saint Denis actually also included several medieval swords, including the Saint Louis sword which, according to legend, is ‘Joyeuse’, the sword of Charlemagne.

Antique Jewellery | Spurs

Crown Jewels

Among the smaller items from the Regalia on display in the Louvre – but which I think are no less interesting for it – are the coronation spurs, which date back in part to the twelfth century. The spurs were kept by the museum in 1793, when the St Denis treasure was dispersed. The spurs comprise six open-work elements, decorated with long-necked dragons, filigreework and set with garnets. The ends of the buckles are shaped as lion’s heads. These were actually quite an important part of the ritual of the French coronation, during which the monarch was effectively stripped of much of his clothing. After entering the cathedral, the king’s outer clothes were removed, leaving him in just his silk underwear. He would then be dressed in a pair of hose (that’s tights to you and me), decorated with the royal fleur-de-lis, a set of boots and finally a pair of elaborately decorated solid gold spurs. These spurs, which were removed immediately, are symbolic of the age of chivalry, in which a knight could be said to ‘earn his spurs’. Historical records show this almost-comical ‘stripping down of the monarch’ practice taking place as far back as 1380, during the coronation of Charles VI in the Abbey.

When we refer to the French Crown Jewels, what we’re talking about are the crowns, the sceptres, orb, the diadems (a diadem being technically an ornamental ‘headband’ or women’s half crown – what we might call a tiara) and the various jewels that were used to appoint the country’s head of state. The collection (known as the Diamants de la Couronne de France) includes several especially notable pieces. The first of these is what is known as the Côte-de-Bretagne, a red spinel that weighs in at 105 carats, which

Crown of Dauphin Louis Antoine (1824)

subsequently utilised. So, just as pieces from the Russian Crown Jewels helped further the Boleshevik cause that replaced the Romanovs in 1917, and the priceless gold of Afghanistan was used by the Taliban to secure its power in the 1990s, the French crown jewels became vital tools of revolution in France in the 1790s. And so it was that, in 1792, during the height of the tumultous and violent revolutionary period, the Crown Jewels were stolen by rioters storming the Royal Treasury (the following year, the Saint Denis treasure

Just as pieces from the Russian Crown Jewels helped further the Boleshevik cause… and the priceless gold of Afghanistan was used by the Taliban to secure its power, the French crown jewels became vital tools of revolution in France in the 1790s. was carved in the shape of a dragon, along with a stone known as the Sancy Diamond, The Crown Jewels of France are hugely interesting historically for two reasons: firstly because they played such an important role in the history of rule in that nation, and further – like many a crown collection of a dismantled monarchy – because of the way in which their enormous value was

was similarly looted). Under Louis XV, the royal treasure had been kept in the treasury, housed in one of the pavilions of the Place de la Concorde, and what was taken from there was sold some three years later. Almost all the priceless pieces were taken, although some pieces were preserved and sent to the Louvre in Paris, such as the coronation sceptre of the kings of France, created in the first instance for Charles V, while others were melted down or dismantled. The Crown of Charlemagne was one of those pieces that suffered this disappointing fate. Several other pieces were also lost in this way – the gilded altar of Charles the Bald, the cross of Saint Eligius and the screen of Charlemagne. While most of the jewels were recovered, some were not found in the years immediately afterwards, among them the Sancy Diamond and the French Blue Diamond.

Crown of Louis XV The crown of Louis XV is, of the twenty that were known to have existed from the royal Ancien Regime, the only survivor. The Crown had the Regent Diamond set in the lower fleur-de-lis part of the crown, along with eight diamonds known as the Mazarin diamonds. The crown is set with further diamonds and coloured gemstones as well as two rows of pearls. Most of the diamonds in the crown today are crystal replacements. In 1814, under Napoleon’s rule, much of the collection was ‘restored’ – it included

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Antique Jewellery over 65,000 stones and pearls which were logged alongside the jewels of his Empress Josephine. This huge collection was finally sold on in 1885 by the Third Republic.

Hope Diamond Rather tantalisingly, the ‘missing’ French Blue is actually widely believed to have been recut and renamed, reappearing much later as the world renowned Hope Diamond. That the Hope is the same stone has not been conclusively proven, but the colour, clarity and size are such that most experts are in agreement. Famously, of course, the Hope Diamond has long been thought (somewhat fancifully) to carry a curse. Quite apart from having adorned the destined-to-roll heads of the Royal couple Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, a whole string of owners and wearers are said to have been struck down inexplicably with pitifully bad luck. The Hope is said to have brought about everything from marriage collapse and financial ruin to madness, suicide and violent death. The current consensus, however, is that the ‘curse’ of the Hope Diamond is simply a myth created

56 The Jeweller July 2011

Galerie d’Apollon jewels in the Louvre

in the early days of the 20th Century by Pierre Cartier as a (rather bizarre) way of drumming up publicity and interest in the stone. This piece of French ceremonial history now lives in Washington’s Smithsonian, where it is the museum’s most popular exhibit. What survives of the rest of the Crown Jewels now – principally, the crowns – are on display in the Galerie d’Apollon in the Louvre. Disappointingly, they’re now mostly

set with glass stones, but despite this they are (as Crown Jewels tend to be) quite spectacular. Further pieces from the collection, such as a series of diamond pins belonging to Marie Antoinette (she who remains such a huge source of fascination to the world) and other significant stones like the Saint Louis emerald and the ‘Ruspoli’ sapphire, are also on display, at France’s I national natural history museum.

| Opinion: Michael Hoare

What value is your diamond valuation? As he navigates his way around the industry Michael Hoare picks up comments, opinions and ideas of importance to our industry. Here he discusses a worrying certification issue that is alarming an increasing number of NAG members. here is a serious problem in the world of diamonds which could undermine public confidence in the honesty of jewellers and the true value of diamonds – even more so in these straightened times. As consumers’ disposable income has declined, so they are shopping around more for ‘best value’. In fact a recent survey in the U.S. indicated that most engagement ring customers research diamonds on the internet prior to purchase. They are also more likely to seek reassurance that their purchase, one of the most significant of their lives, represents real value for money; often relying on diamond certificates for this purpose. Yet I constantly hear retailers and valuers saying that they believe certain certificates are “not worth the paper they’re written on”, and some laboratories “constantly exaggerate their grades by up to four grades higher than others. “If this is true, then can any certificates be relied upon to represent the ‘true’ qualities, and therefore the value, of a diamond? Also, if some jewellers turn their diamond stock

58 The Jeweller July 2011

over to these certificates to give the illusion of better value, are the public being deceived? And at the same time, are some retailers being penalised for looking expensive by comparison with exaggerated grades? Most important of all are young couples – saving hard to purchase such an important symbol of their love and trusting their jeweller – being duped into purchasing a ring of less value and quality than they have been led to believe?

added an average of 45 per cent to the notional value of the sample stones. He continues: “We recently test-purchased in a jewellery store primarily selling these certificated diamonds. They quoted an unbelievably low price for a high quality stone. They confidently purported to be the best value diamond retailer and even showed the customer a similar stone of a much higher price on the website of a famous multiple high street retailer and NAG member. Another member tells me that he has a ring with a dubious assessment (D, VS1) that he is going to sell as noncertificated, as he is concerned about having the item valued in the future and his inability to defend the certificate.” So, not only is the variability of certain certificates making comparative shopping a futile exercise, they are potentially storing up trouble for retailers who rely on them to support their price proposition. Customers are not only more ‘net’ savvy; they are also a lot more litigious and it is the ‘seller’ who carries the responsibility. All jewellers accept that they operate in a competitive market, but most would expect to do so on a level playing field. Equally, most customers realise that prices fluctuate in line with other factors, and accept that knowledgeable staff, a luxurious ambiance, and first class aftercare may add a premium to price. They do not expect some jewellers to behave like the equivalent of second hand car salesmen who ‘clock’ the mileage of their cars. Fundamentally customers expect to be able to ‘compare apples with apples’. But this is where the flaw in the system lies. While everyone has been encouraged to see diamonds as a ‘commodity’, they do not realise that there is no international standard governing diamond appraisals. But without

They do not expect some jewellers to behave like the equivalent of second hand car salesmen who ‘clock’ the mileage of their cars. One NAG member was so concerned by what he had seen that he decided to get three diamonds, selected at random from his stock, certified by a selection of individual laboratories, as he put it, to “test fact from rumour”. He was astonished by the results, and found that one laboratory’s assessment

this the last defence of the unscrupulous is that all certificates are just based on someone else’s opinion. Another retail jeweller put it in stronger terms: “What is happening is deceitful – duping the public and taking sales from the honest retailers. It’s the same as selling a Fiat as a Ferrari,” What do you think?

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The Voice of the Industry 59

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Insurance Matters |

The pitfalls of travel insurance It’s that time of year and even jewellers take holidays... You’ve packed your shorts and the SPF 30 (I trust) but have you been as organised about travel insurance? TH March has the subject covered.

f all the forms of insurance which the public sometimes thinks of as an optional extra, travel insurance is one of the most important, variable and misunderstood covers. It is important because the costs of overseas medical care, air ambulance and repatriation, or overseas personal liability, can be very substantial. It is variable and misunderstood often because policies vary considerably in the fringe benefits they offer. The extent of cover for travel delay, ash clouds, collapsed airlines, and perhaps even personal luggage or the low limits on jewellery and valuables, are rarely of disastrous economic impact – though collectively they can make the difference between good and poor policies. Far more important, and more often misunderstood, are the insurers’ conditions on medical cover and cancellation.

Many would-be insureds seeking travel insurance fail to understand these nuances, especially when buying online, or seeking the cheapest quote which will often have the tightest conditions and poorest cover.

Many covers exclude medical or cancellation costs associated with pre-existing medical conditions. Most of us are not medically knowledgeable enough to recognise that the stomach ache we consulted a doctor about, but which cleared up subsequently, might indicate a developing problem, or that the heart attack was presaged by that recurrent pain in the leg. Nor are doctors’ comments necessarily a good guide. ‘Fit to travel’ usually means that the doctor does not expect the process of travelling to exacerbate the condition. The doctor will not interpret your insurance cover for you, nor offer to guide you as to whether it might fail to cover an illness arising out of a pre-existing medical condition. Some insurers do not exclude pre-existing medical conditions in general. They rely on the insured, and those on whom the trip depends, not having suffered from certain events which are defined at the outset. If you have suffered from any of these events, there is usually a medical telephone helpline that can guide you on the extent of cover that is available. Far better that you find out in advance what cover is available than discover afterwards that your claim will be refused and you have wasted your premium. Many would-be insureds seeking travel insurance fail to understand these nuances, especially when buying online, or seeking the cheapest quote which will often have the tightest conditions and poorest cover. Other problems which arise are failure to take out a winter sports extension where relevant, or to understand the exclusion of injuries sustained as a consequence of alcohol (particularly relevant to winter sports where too heavy an evening or an extra glüwein can effect one’s skiing), or injuries sustained in connection with the use of motorbikes or scooters. Finally, don’t overlook the need to insure members of staff if travelling abroad on business. There are some good group travel policies, some of which include personal travel cover for directors even to the extent of including winter sports and abolishing most age restrictions. T.H. March & Co Limited has been serving the jewellery industry since 1887. With offices around the UK, the company offers a wide range of insurance products including schemes for the customers of jewellers.

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Feature

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

a section on new diamond-setting techniques and a system of hallmarking. The parts played by artists including Elsa Peretti, Jean Schlumberger and Paloma Picasso are covered, as is jewellery created for men – quite unusual to find in a book on this subject. Holly Golightly would have approved…

Tiaras – a history of splendour by Geoffrey C Munn (£45, Antique Collectors’ Club) Apart from among the royals of course, tiaras have fallen somewhat out of favour of late – modern brides seem to prefer floral arrangements in their hair these days. But maybe the big royal wedding back in April will change the course of trends a little – the Duchess of Cambridge seems not to put a foot wrong style-wise. In which case, this book could prove very useful to have around. It offers a real mix, with not just a pretty comprehensive history of the tiara but also lavish photos of pieces from private collections… including the royal ones. There are also some contemporary examples

from the likes of Madonna, Elton John and Vivienne Westwood.

Hemmerle Delicious Jewels with Tamasin Day Lewis (£50.00, Prestel) from www.hemmerle.com The fourth-generation family business Hemmerle, masters of haute joallerie with a permanent collection in the V&A, has produced a book as immaginative and extraordinary as its precious works of art. Food writer and author Day Lewis has been charged with creating a dish to accompany each of the pieces so sumptuously illustrated – 11 brooches and a pair of earrings, all inspired by vegetables. Sounds mad – looks fabulous. And it’s not hard to see a very real connection between jewellery aesthetics and craftsmanship and Day Lewis’ own culinary art. You’re just not going to want to get this book splattered with olive oil by taking it into the kitchen…

Sales & Exhibitions

September 26th-9th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall An opportunity for the public to buy direct from the best jewellery and silversmithing talent in the UK. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk

Notebook

July 21st-24th: Art in Action, Waterperry House, Wheatley, Oxon. Jewellery designers and metalworkers will be among the designer-makers selling their work at this all-encompassing art event. www.artinaction.org August 5th-30th: Dazzle, Assembly Theatre, George Square, Edinburgh A gathering of new and established jewellery designers working with a variety of materials including precious metals and gemstones. www.dazzle-exhibitions.com

18/22 ct gold and topaz pendant and chain by Jean Scott Montcrieff at the Goldsmiths’ Fair

62 The Jeweller July 2011

American Luxury Jewels from the House of Tiffany by Jeannine Falino and Yvonne J Markowitz (£29.95, Antique Collectors’ Club) From its birth in the mid 19th century – which saw the firm position itself as an arbiter of taste and style – to its enduring appeal today, this book charts the history of the luxury American brand, including the story of how the co-founder bought part of the French crown jewels for his wealthy, status-hungry clientele. It discusses its influence on jewellery style and promotion of new technologies; there’s

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs July 15th-17th: Gujarat International Jewellery Show, Ahmedabad, India Organised by the Gem & Jewellery Trade Council of India, GIJS will feature around 200 stands showing diamond, gemstone and Kundan jewellery and plain gold and silver jewellery. www.gjtci.org August 4th-5th: Australian Opal Exhibition, Gold Coast International Hotel, Queensland The largest range of opal and opal jewellery in one location – including black opal, boulder

opal, fine and fashion jewellery. www.austopalexpo.com 4th-8th: India International Jewellery Show, Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India India’s biggest jewellery trade show exhibiting a wide range of gems and jewellery. www.iijs.org 25th-28th: Copenhagan Jewellery Fair, Bella Center, Copenhagen, Denmark Denmark’s only trade event dedicated to fashion jewellery. www.cphjf.dk September 4th-7th: International Jewellery London, Earl’s Court, London The UK’s most established jewellery-focussed event, showing British and international jewellery designers, wholesalers and manufacturers. Includes special initiatives such as KickStart and Bright Young Gems, as well as a catwalk show and seminars. www.jewellerylondon.com

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| Regular

The

Last Word This month The Last Word falls to Peter Taylor, Director Technology and Training of The Goldsmiths’ Company and Director Designate of the soon-to-open Goldsmiths’ Centre Personal Profile Having started his career undertaking design and production work as a partner in a silversmithing and model-making business in Birmingham, it wasn’t too long before Taylor realised that his skills base was far more diverse. A consultant on various high profile funding programmes and responsibility for strategic business planning for educational institutes such as Birmingham Institute for Art and Design led, logically, to his current position. When the fabulous new Goldsmiths’ Centre opens at the end of this year, Taylor, whose baby this charity truly is, will become its first CEO.

How would you describe your personal style? Casual when I get the chance. Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Anywhere that has interesting people, good food, stunning landscapes, history and I can share with family or friends. Italy is a firm favourite as it ticks all these boxes. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? Own: Creative, Pragmatic, Chaotic. Others: Energetic, Dynamic, Focused (Thank you…). To what do you attribute your success? Passion, communication and pragmatism. Passion because if you can't feel strongly about something then it is hard to expect others to do so; communication because you must articulate your passion and convince others to buy into it, or it is nothing more than an opinion; and pragmatism because sometimes you have to be prepared to modify your position if you are to be successful and achieve the big picture outcome that you are working towards.

66 The Jeweller July 2011

Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Listen more… It’s something many of us don’t do enough of. It doesn’t take much effort to really listen and ask questions to ensure that you understand where others are coming from. I’m trying to become a more ‘active’ listener as I get older but it remains a challenge. If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? It never ceases to amaze me how many people are ignorant about what is going on in the industry outside of their immediate circle. I do believe that we can achieve so

much more if work together to face these challenging times – so my magic wand would trigger better communication! Do you Tweet? No! Tell us something not many people know about you… I love Alfa Romeo cars – they are the perfect combination of design and sometimes ideosyncratic engineering that often leads to roadside mechanical adventures! Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country)? Anywhere you can buy good design or be inspired… which invariably takes me back to Italy! If not insurance and jewellery business, what might your career have been? Marketing and PR. What book are you currently reading? ‘Affinity Bridge’ by George Mann – it deals with an alternate reality, strange science and Victorian sleuths and is the perfect vehicle for some harmless escapism. Quick fire (no deliberating) • Red or white wine? Red • Diamonds or coloured stones? Diamonds • White or yellow metal? White • TV or radio? Radio • Bentley or Roller? Bentley • Delegator or control freak? Control freak • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles

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